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SPRING SUMMER 2012
are you
all in?
CIVETTA, ITALY –– 04:17 PM Chimera Ver ticale (7c)
outdoor 2
t highlights spring / summer 201
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women’s special
girls on the rocks dedicated
beat kammerlander kayaking
on white water
are you all in? civetta, italy – 6:27 pm It’s all about that moment. The one that says it all. Chimera Verticale (7c): Flo and Jakob pass the critical point in the nick of time, ready to tackle the rest. Give it all you’ve got. Share your moment to win the terrex™ experience.
COMPETITION
are you all in? share + win Prove that you are all in to win the terrex experience Hold it right there buddy! Take a picture of your favorite outdoor moment, share it with us and win! Join us on facebook or go to adidas.com/outdoor, upload your photo and win an unforgettable experience in Zermatt and great terrex™ products.
Find out more on facebook.com/adidasoutdoor or go to adidas.com/outdoor
Whatever you’re into – mountaineering/ climbing/slacklining/kayaking/paragliding… it’s time to show that you’re all in! Throw in everything you have. all you need is your all in moment, three fingers and a camera.
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three steps to win
Some of our friends and athletes have already sent us first pics… it’s not only about what you do – it’s also about how you do it. Get inspired and go outdoors!
1 . Share the kick:
Take a snapshot of yourself showing the 3 stripes in an outdoor location that lets everyone see just what gets your pulse racing.
It’s got to be outdoors, it’s got to be real, it’s got to be fun and it’s got to be a self-portrait. In the photo you must show the 3 stripes hand sign.
2 . Inspire your friends:
Tell your story: describe your outdoor project and the challenge behind. And then spread the word to your friends and get them to vote for your “all in” photo so you’ll be one of the ten prize winners.
Everyone can vote for his or her favorite project online. Swap stories with others in the community and give them your support.
An adidas expert jury of athletes, photographers and professional mountain guides will then choose the three best entries.
Felix and Stefan, Utah, USA
Sasha, Rodellar, Spain
3 . Win your stripes:
Bring the 3 stripes to the outdoors share your “all in” moment and win:
1st - 3rd Unforgettable experience with the Alpine Center Zermatt – and you can bring a friend! You will also get a complete terrex™ outfit and one exclusive product from our Spring/Summer 2013 collection. 4th - 10th Exclusive Spring/Summer 2013 terrex™ product, so you’ll be the first to show off our upcoming terrex™ range. Hurry up – first 50 submissions get an extra adidas outdoor goodie!
Daniel, Tyrol, Austria
INDEX
We would like to invite you: join our facebook community, get inspired by our athletes and their stories and, most importantly, let us know about your thoughts and projects for the future.
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Cooperation partners: DAV Summit Club GmbH is the German Alpine Association’s mountaineering school and special travel organizer for active mountaineering and cultural vacations worldwide. DAV Summit Club evolved from the mountaineering service of the DAV founded in 1957 and is now one of the largest mountaineering schools in the world. The Zugspitze Mountaineering School is the mountain guide association on Germany’s highest mountain. The specialist knowledge of the team is clear from the high quality of training and tours they provide. Some are old hands with a valuable source of knowledge; others are up-todate thanks to their training activities with various alpine associations and many tours with their clients, who they don’t only accompany up the Zugspitze. Founded in 1894, the Swiss association can look back on a highly successful history spanning more than 100 years. Over 60 professional mountain guides at the Zermatt Alpin Center have been relying on adidas outdoor products since spring 2011. The ‘Lecco Spiders’ is the climbing club of the famous Grignetta Spiders Mountaineering Association in Italy. They can look back on a long list of international successes that stretches back more than 60 years. They have among their ranks past heroes Cassin and Casimiro Ferrari, and current big names such as Matteo Della Bordella and Fabio Palma. Over the years they have not only opened up numerous new routes but also been in the spotlight of international fame. The Beijing Mountaineering Association was founded in 2003 by the Beijing Sports Bureau. Today it is affiliated to the China Mountain Association and plays a dominant role in a range of outdoor activities in China. The BMA now has around 200 groups with a total of more than 10,000 members.
IMPRINT outdoor Magazine & Product Highlights Spring / Summer 2012 is the official outdoor catalog with editorial content of adidas AG. adidas outdoor Magazine is published twice a year. Published by adidas AG World of Sports Adi-Dassler-Straße 1 91074 Herzogenaurach – Germany Concept and realisation bøa! agentur gmbh supported by Michael Meisl Photographer Michael Meisl Additional photographers Blake Jorgenson, Christian Waldegger, Daniel Zangerl, Jens Klatt, Thomas Senf, Reini Fichtinger, Hannes Mair Text Eva Meschede, Dimitri Lehner, Florian Scheimpflug, Philip Baues, Natascha Knecht Copywriting and English translation Giles Tilling, Neil Perkins / wordworks 3D graphics Mario Kaufmann / MKFX all data are subject to change and are provided without any guarantee. printing and layout errors excepted. all rights reserved. may not be copied. © 2012 adidas AG. adidas, the 3-Bars logo, and the 3-Stripes mark are registered trademarks of the adidas Group.
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PAGE
COMPETITION
CIVETTA CHIMERA VERTICALE TECHNOLOGY FOOTWEAR
FREERUNNER VS FREERIDER
ADIDAS AND CONTINENTAL
BEAT KAMMERLANDER DEDICATED
FLY & CLIMB
TECHNOLOGY APPAREL
ALEX LUGER IN BRITISH COLUMBIA
KAYAKING ON WHITE WATER
SPECIALS
READY SET GO PETIT DRU BASE JUMP
WOMEN’S SPECIAL GIRLS ON THE ROCKS
REINHOLD MESSNER EQUALITY
3 HIGHLINES TRE CIME DI LAVAREDO
PRODUCT OVERVIEW
04 08 22 24 30 32 40 46 48 52 60 62 68 77 80 86
CIVETTA, ITALY –– 07:30 PM The 15-pitch “Chimera Verticale” on Civetta in the Dolomites is only half the story: Jakob and Flo want to do the entire tour including the difficult descent back down into the valley as a “done in a day” challenge. The challenge was taken up, but will they manage this cliffhanger of an adventure against the clock?
BEAT’S, AUSTRIA –– 11:00 AM Dedicated! More than 30 years of devotion on
rock and ice have left their mark. A mark that stands for raising the bar in no-compromise climbing philosophy in vertical space. And a mark in Beat’s climbing soul. We visited Beat to find out more.
BUGABOOS, CANADA –– 02:17 PM Shark’s teeth, bathed in a red glow as darkness closes in. Enough to scare most people, you’d think. But not Alex and Johannes. Nor are they worried by Bugaboos. Which is just as well, because that’s the name of the Canadian range they’ve come to climb, 100 years after the first ascent by an Austrian expat. But did the “shark’s teeth” bite back?
PETIT DRU, FRANCE –– 04:32 PM The Russian Valery Rozov basejumped from
Petit Dru, a spectacular summit overshadowing Chamonix in the Mont Blanc massif. During an interview he told us about the risks involved, what it feels like to fly, and whether he ever feels afraid.
ROCKLANDS, SOUTH AFRICA –– 05:21 PM They’re not only making headlines at international competitions, but also conquering real rock faces of the highest grades. A new generation is entering the fray with girl power. We explain why Sasha DiGiulian, Mélissa Le Nevé and Barbara Zangerl are names you are going to be hearing a great deal more about in the near future.
CIVETTA
THE CIVETTA CHALLENGE
22:39:10 TWENTY-TWO HOURS THIRTY-NINE MINUTES AND TEN SECONDS OF CIVETTA
CIVETTA, ITALY –– 07:45 PM
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THE HIGHLIGHT SHOULD BE AN IMPOSING ROCK FACE IN THE DOLOMITES, PREVIOUSLY ONLY A FIRST ASCENT. THE “CHIMERA VERTICALE” ON CIVETTA HAS 15 DIFFICULT ALPINE PITCHES, OFTEN IN THE EIGHT AND ONE EVEN A GRADE NINE, PLUS AN EASY YET STEEP FINAL APPROACH OFFERING A TOTAL OF 900 METERS OF CLIMBING. AND AS IF THIS CHALLENGING REPRISE WASN’T ENOUGH: 14 KILOMETERS HIGH-SPEED HIKE AND MORE THAN 1,000 VERTICAL METERS OF VIA FERRATA TO GET THERE. ACHIEVING THIS PROJECT IN ONE DAY IS WHAT THE TWO YOUNG MOUNTAIN GUIDES JAKOB SCHWEIGHOFER AND FLORIAN (FLO) WURM WERE AIMING FOR. THE 23-YEAR-OLD FROM UPPER AUSTRIA AND THE 27-YEAR-OLD FROM UPPER BAVARIA SAW THIS CHALLENGE AS A PERFECT OPPORTUNITY TO PUT THE NEW TERREX™ RANGE TO THE ULTIMATE TEST. BUT WOULD THEY MANAGE? THEY HAD LET THEMSELVES IN FOR AN ADVENTURE ABOUT WHICH THERE IS MUCH TO RECOUNT, PARTICULARLY CHALLENGES LATE AT NIGHT THAT THEY HAD NOT BARGAINED FOR.
source: Google
CIVETTA
Tre Cime di Lavaredo
IT
A
LY
Bozen
Cortina d’Ampezzo
CIVETTA
46° 22’ 41” N 12° 02’ 38” E
Arco
FLO “It’s getting later and later and at the moment I
Florian (Flo) Wurm, 27
can’t get a saying by legendary climber Emilio Comici out of my head: ‘The companion must always have a word of encouragement ready to spur the leader on during the terrible strain he is subjecting himself to.’ That is a statement from the era of conquering alpinism, and it only applies partly to us because we are climbing for fun. My ‘companion’ Jakob doesn’t have any words of encouragement for me right now, all I can hear behind me are swear words. We are running out of time.
It is 11:00 pm and we want to get back down to the valley, but we are running up the mountain again for the third time, back towards Rifugio Tissi, scrambling through the bushes, searching for a mark, a sign. We’ve taken the wrong route. We’ve only got a small headlamp to illuminate possible footprints, rocks, roots Jakob Schweighofer, 23 and scree – we dropped our other lamp on the ninth pitch climbing the Civetta earlier in the afternoon; it fell 30m and smashed on the ledge below. It happened when I pulled the camera out of the cover pocket of my rucksack. It’s my fault. That’s why Jakob is holding the light and is behind me, and I can hardly believe it but we can’t find the route down to Masaré. It ought to be an easy hiking path, should be an easy saunter on a sunny day. But it is pitch-black and finding our way is proving to be unfeasibly difficult. There’s no moon to help us tonight, we are tired, and we have a gigantic tour behind us.”
JAKOB “I’m usually a pretty laid-back kind of guy, but here in the dark
after all we’ve been through even I have to let rip with a cuss word now and again. I just can’t believe that we fail on such an easy route. Behind us there are many meters of via ferrata, the steep approach, ups and downs to get there, and the highlight ‘Chimera Verticale’, a very difficult Dolomite route on the northwest face of the Civetta; 15 pitches of up to grade 9 climbing; an alpine adventure during which not only the ninth key pitch took us to our limits, but we really had to fight all the time and give it our all before finally winning though. Since the Italian Alessandro Baù created the tour with colleagues in 2009 and after several attempts did the initial ascent, and finally climbed the route redpoint, the 600m route with overhanging buttresses has been waiting for its next climbing team. And that was going to be us. But we also wanted that bit more adventure, too. We wanted to complete both the long approach to the entry point and the even longer descent from the summit back to Masaré in the valley in a single day. We had set our sights on a ‘done in a day’ challenge. We knew that we would have to not only climb long and hard, but also spend many hours on our feet, running, running and more running. That we end up running around like headless chickens tripping up over bushes at midnight was not part of the plan. Haven’t we crossed this cattle grid before? Damn, everything looks the same.”
FLO “In the morning we left the Tissi Mountain Hut at round 04:30 am
in the best possible conditions. The weather was perfect; it was one of the few hot days in August, ideal for a long northwest face route in the shade when it is comfortable to keep your jacket on, even on such a fine day. We ran up the approach in three-quarters of an hour, firing up for come challenging climbing; now all we wanted was the wall at last. By the time the sun came up we had reached the final stage of the steep approach, meaning: slabs, dihedrals, loose terrain with easy climbing up to grade 4. It would be overdoing it to put on our climbing shoes in this terrain, we decided. Anyway, our lightweight hiking boots did a much better job on the damp, mossy rock, gravel and remnants of snow and ice. Without ropes we made good progress over this lower section, excited at the prospect of finally getting to grips with some serious grades of difficulty. Who is going to be allowed to lead on the first pitch? That was the controversial question, which we decided to settle with a round of ‘rock, paper, scissors’. Paper beats rock – I’ve won! That meant leading not just the first pitch, but also the ninth, which the first climbers of this route marked as the key pitch. But who is going to really know, if a route has never been repeated? There is not much information to go on.”
JAKOB
“It must have been 07:30 am or so as Flo started out on the highlight of our challenge with his belt adorned with removable protection – Camelots and Friends. The ‘Chimera Verticale’ is a cool line up the central face, flanked on the left and right by older, easier chimneys in which you usually scramble around in the damp. The guys who climbed the ‘Chimera’ for the first time picked a good one – beautifully steep and dry. I was impressed as from below I evaluated our route straight up the middle. ‘Chimera’, here we come! My feelings oscillated between a self-assured ‘we can do it’ and subliminal nervousness: ‘how difficult is it really?’”
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adidas.com/outdoor MONTE CIVETTA
PUNTA CIVETTA
CHIMERA VERTICALE
ENTRANCE
APPROACH
CIVETTA 04:30
Jakob: We’re off! We started at the Tissi Mountain Hut and are now on the approach to the foot of the rock face. Running across scree and the remains of snowfields. We have set a good pace and can’t wait to get climbing.
05:36
04:30
Jakob: Climbing at last! The lead in to the rock face is easy; we don’t need ropes. We don’t need climbing shoes either; we’ll be wearing them for long enough later. Flo: We get closer to the real challenge. Will we manage it?
05:36
07:30
Jakob: Starting the first pitch. Our equipment: Camelots, Friends, express slings, wedges and a 60m rope. Flo: Who is going to lead? ‘Rock, paper, scissors’ decides. I win and start on the highlight of the adventure.
07:30
CIVETTA
Punta Civetta
19:00 18:27
15
V+ 55M
14
VIII 45M
16:17
13
VIII 25M
12
VII+ 30M
15:10
11
VII+ 50M
14:02
10
VIII+ 50M
13:20
9
IX- 35M
8
V 40M
10:30 09:48
08:00
07:30
7
VII- 35M
6
VI+ 40M
5
VII 45M
4
VI+ 45M
3
VII+ 40M
2
VII 30M
1
V+ 50M
CHIMERA VERTICALE
JAKOB “It’s going to be exciting, a real cliffhanger; we knew that after the first
pitch – just a 5+, but with loose holds and often difficult to secure protection. Up to the ninth pitch we were doing well, however, although it was getting more difficult and we often had to climb a very long way between bolts. Our courage was really being put to the test. I’ll admit that the first eight pitches left my nerves in tatters. Then around 12:20 pm we reached the long-awaited and much feared ninth pitch. I watch as Flo climbs the grade 9 with three nasty runouts suspended way over the bolts. On-sight! This kind of thing is really psychological – you have to shut out all doubt. Flo puts in some very cool, laid-back moves. I’m impressed and fully motivated. And that’s when it happens – while I’m following up, a foothold breaks away and I fall onto the rope. That was it for me as far as the redpoint was concerned – motivation, strength and nerves are also gone. I started to get cramps in my legs.”
09:48
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16:17
16:20
09:48
Jakob: This is a lovely long chimney. Unfortunately the backpack got wedged in while we were hauling it up. I really had to pull hard to get it free.
16:17
Jakob: The pressure doesn’t let up: psychologically this is a key pitch just like the ninth behind us. If Flo had fallen, he would have landed in the traverse because it’s unlikely the protection would hold at such an angle.
16:20
Flo: You mustn’t think what could happen. The rock face requires my full concentration. I push all doubt away.
16:22
16:22
16:17
Jakob: The traverse really tests Flo’s nerves and it’s another five tough meters to the end of the pitch. He’ll do it, I’m sure. What a cliffhanger!
CIVETTA
17:05
17:32
17:58
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17:05
Flo: The 13th pitch (7a) is also a classic with many small edges, round holds where it is difficult to find purchase. I feel my way forwards.
17:32
Jakob: Slowly we are running out of energy, but there are still another two pitches to go.
17:58
Flo: I studied the 14th pitch (7a) for a long time before starting: a damp wide crack and then a full-body workout in a difficult traverse. In the end it was easier to climb than we expected.
18:27
Jakob and Flo: The 14th pitch is behind us. Jubilation! We’ve done it!
FLO “The 10th pitch takes our strength and nerves
to the limit. Jakob isn’t feeling on top form so I take the lead. Then comes this boulder section, no overview, small edges, round holds where it is difficult to find purchase. I grab for a hold – wrong. And fall. 4m into the rope. Luckily Jakob caught me with a nice soft belay. Shame that our redpoint dreams are out of the window. Maybe I should mention at this point that there, on the rock face, we always had the all-important ‘words of encouragement’ ready for our buddy. I often sing while climbing, some catchy number. And we congratulated and motivated each other at the end of each pitch. We always asked: ‘you ok to continue?’ If you realize that you just aren’t up to it, then there is only one option: abseiling! But we weren’t done yet. You’ve got to put a little bit of effort into it, right? I can do it, I can somehow calm my frayed nerves, I can pull myself together. That’s a matter of practice and we learned how to do it on mountain guide training. On the 14th pitch I needed a longer rest to calm down, I looked up and thought: Oh no, that as well! A damp wide crack and then a full-body workout in a dihedral up to grade 8. But, as I had to admit afterwards, it wasn’t nearly as bad as I feared. This kind of tour is always full of surprises.”
JAKOB
18:27
“When I reached the end of the 14th pitch, I let out a scream that made the rock face wobble. This pitch wasn’t difficult, but extremely exposed with plenty of loose holds. We managed to climb up on our last legs, fell into each others arms and then captured this key moment for posterity. For us this rock face was a really big deal, we were always at the limit of our capabilities. We normally climb 7c or 8a, we aren’t professional athletes and certainly no mountain heroes. But we did it.”
CIVETTA
JAKOB
“We peel our climbing shoes off our tortured feet. It is around 07:00 pm and we’ve still got a lot ahead of us: first the via ferrata over Punta Civetta, heading along a ridge to the little cross on the summit of Civetta.”
Approaches, hours of grueling climbing on the sunless and windswept wall of “Chimera Verticale”. And as if that’s not enough, now comes the trail to the summit and a long, punishing descent. What counts here is a perfect fit and total functionality – from head to toe. Jakob and Flo are not prepared to compromise. Their equipment: OUTER SHELL terrex ™ GORE-TEX® Active Shell Jacket, terrex ™ Multi Pants MID/INSULATION LAYER terrex ™ Hybrid Soft Shell Jacket BASELAYER terrex ™ 1/2 Zip Tee FOOTWEAR terrex ™ fast r Mid GTX® HARDWARE Backpack terrex ™ 35
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19:20
CIVETTA
* Note from the editors: Jakob and Flo were the second climbing team to successfully attempt the “Chimera Verticale”, but not redpoint like Alessandro Baù in 2009.
JAKOB
“We managed that in good time; we were out of breath but kept up a good running pace. Reaching the summit at around 08:00 pm, we see the sun disappear behind the mountains. We are all alone up there and enjoy the hazy summer evening air, the last rays of light as dusk approaches and the view of the steep rock faces of Civetta below us, Monte Pelmo nearby, Marmolada, Piz Boè and in the distance the peaks of the Hohe Tauern. That’s an impression that suddenly brings back all your motivation. Now it’s all about the descent, starting with a gravel path heading southwest. We are still on schedule. Then, unexpectedly, a temptation lies just off the path. From the little Rifugio Torrani Hut we can hear comforting rock music beckoning and the tempting smell of food wafts past our nostrils. An ice-cold beer was literally within our grasp. No way! The clock is ticking! No time! Although we’ve been on our feet for almost 16 hours, we are not going to be led astray so easily. We’ve still got more than 2,900m to go, today, before we reach the valley. And a cool drink and a tasty meal will taste all the better once we have managed the challenge. Let’s go!
19:35
Gradually it starts to get really dark. Looking out for the red markings on the via ferrata with just a headlight is an interesting experience. ‘There it is!’ ‘No, wrong again, another 10m to the right’, like that at running pace for 1,000m of descent and half-way round the Civetta massif back to the backpack dropoff point. There we had something to eat and then continued running, now with two backpacks each, towards the valley. It’s not so far now. We thought.”
FLO “Yep, and as I mentioned at the beginning, that’s
when we got lost. Hurry downhill. And back up again. We wasted at least two hours searching around in the dark. Ridges, gullies, cattle grids, rocks, forest. We hadn’t reckoned with this kind of trouble. We were desperate to get home, or at least to a bed in the valley, because we were dead tired, which is why we didn’t take that sign seriously. It said ‘Casa’ or ‘Casera’, or something like that, I can’t remember exactly. We’d run past it at least once before. In the end we took its advice, regardless of which house it led to. And it turned out to really be the right way. At 03:00 am we finally arrived down in Masaré. We’ve done it: ‘Done in a day’. We add up the whole tour: factoring in the getting lost, an even longer run of at least 20km, with 1,000m of via ferrata plus the 900m of steep climbing. And they were the best, because the ‘Chimera’ repeat ascent* with its 15 challenging pitches now belongs to us. Our joy at having succeeded wakes us up again. And my buddy Jakob suddenly comes out with a stream of words of encouragement. We are proud. What a day, what an adventure – unforgettable.”
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19:35
Jakob: Another 300m of elevation to the summit; we tried to be as fast as possible so that we still have daylight as long as possible to find our way down. I really enjoy this stage up to the summit. The pressure fades away. I am relieved that we have conquered the rock face.
20:12
Jakob: We are all alone on the summit. What a view! We enjoy the hazy summer evening air. But the last rays of sunlight get us moving again as dusk beckons. We’ve still got a long way to go.
22:45
Flo: 1,000m of descent and then half-way round the Civetta massif to get to the backpack depot below the Tissi Hut. And then the rest of the way into the valley. With only one headlight – a challenge that we hadn’t reckoned with. Then we realized we had lost the path.
03:10
Jakob: Unbelievable: we spent hours looking for the right path. Finally we arrive in Masaré. Finished! Quite literally! We are overjoyed, what an awesome day!
20:12
22:45
03:10
CIVETTA BEST OUTFIT
terrex™
GORE-TEX® Active Shell Jacket #X10952 Built for the fastest athletes on the mountain, this minimal and packable terrex ™ GORE-TEX® Active Shell Jacket offers lightweight, breathable protection with soft, next-to-skin comfort thanks to the 3-Layer GORE-TEX® Active Shell fabric. This jacket also has an active FORMOTION™ fit for freedom of movement.
terrex™
Hybrid Soft Shell Jacket #X10963 For wind protection that won’t compromise breathability, the terrex ™ Hybrid Soft Shell Jacket features GORE WINDSTOPPER® Active Shell for ultimate windproof and water resistant performance. This ultra-light jacket delivers exceptional body climate management thanks to a hybrid construction, and with a FORMOTION™ cut, outdoor athletes have superior comfort and fit to move at top speed.
terrex™
1/2 Zip Tee #X16509 Stay cool and focused while conquering high-altitude endeavors in the terrex ™ 1/2 Zip Tee. The FORMOTION ™ cut guarantees sport-specific fit and comfort over strenuous routes, while CLIMACOOL® ventilation keeps you dry and comfortable. This T-shirt’s bonded seams and edges reduce chafing during hard pursuits.
terrex™
Multi Pants #X11891 Ready to follow every move during fast athletic activity in alpine playgrounds, these terrex ™ Multi Pants are stitched from a 4-way stretch material and are cut in a strategic FORMOTION™ design to move more naturally as you move.
CIVETTA BEST OUTFIT
terrex™
fast r Mid GTX® #G46424 Move fast on the mountain in the very lightweight, athletic terrex ™ fast r Mid GTX® shoes. They have a TRAXION® outsole with CONTINENTAL® rubber compound for optimal wet and dry grip. A mid-cut height with a low-to-the-ground construction supported by a 3D FORMOTION ™ unit that ensures great stability on rough terrain.
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“Civetta Challenge” equipment A climb of 900m over 15 alpine pitches, including a final approach, added to a hike of around 14km, over 1,000m of which is via ferrata, and everything ‘done in a day’ – when faced with challenges like this, athletes must be able to rely on their equipment 100%. Flo was grateful for his water resistant terrex ™ GTX® Active Shell Jacket at night especially, because humidity increases after nightfall in the mountains and the athlete could rapidly chill through. Although their arduous climb on the exposed northwest face had them dripping with sweat, Flo and Jakob were able to leave their terrex ™ Hybrid Soft Shell Jackets on the whole time because the jacket is both breathable and windproof. The smooth, next-to-skin terrex ™ 1/2 Zip Tee, a shirt that always dries quickly thanks to its CLIMACOOL® technology and guarantees a perfect fit even on the most demanding routes proved to be the perfect base layer. Thanks to their 4-way stretch material the especially lightweight, hard-wearing terrex™ Multi Pants meant even the highest foot-hook and widest straddle could be managed in comfort. Because Flo had to run downhill without a headlamp he was glad that his terrex ™ fast r Mid GTX® shoes gave him stability on every kind of terrain, whether he was running over the rocky steps of the via ferrata, on chunky gravel or over slippery mountain meadows.
TECHNOLOGY FOOTWEAR
EVA tongue top for enhanced fit and comfort
Speed lacing for fast and snug lacing
lace bungee to secure the speed lace
GORE-TEX速 Extended Comfort Membrane: waterproof and breathable, ideal for higher activity levels
High-abrasion mesh for durability and breathability
TRAXION速 outsole with rubber compound provides the best grip during fast activities
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External heel cap for enhanced stability
adidas cutting edge FORMOTION™ technology
adiPRENE®+ adiPRENE®+ in the forefoot maintains propulsion and efficiency
Combines fun with lightness, ground control and stability
terrex fast r Mid GTX ™
protection plate special impact plate is incorporated for protection from hazards such as sharp rocks
®
Outdoor athletes looking for a light, athletic and at the same time stable fast hiking boot are going to love the terrex ™ fast r. Despite its low weight, the mid cut fast hiking boot offers security and stability. This is made possible using very light material in combination with advanced technologies. The new TRAXION® sole with the innovative CONTINENTAL® rubber compound provides a grip that is exceptional in dry and in wet conditions. Controlled descents are provided by the 3D FORMOTION ™ technology that reduces heel-to-toe velocity and equalizes uneven ground. Feet are staying dry and comfortable thanks to the breathable GORE-TEX® membrane which guarantees 100% waterproof protection.
TECHNOLOGY FOOTWEAR
Over and under: Richie Schley ducks on his bike. Tim Shieff, on the other hand, flies over the tree trunk with XXL strides. Without a high-traction sole this stunt would be impossible for freerunners.
TESTED TO ITS LIMIT
& E D I RIDE R RUN
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WHISTLER, CANADA –– 11:32 AM
TEX T DIMITRI LEHNER
PHOTO BLA KE JORGEN
SON
athletes in their ider – two of the top er fre s et me er nn Freeru n bike rider Profe ssional mountai s. rn ho k loc lds fie re spec tive ” Shieff, a professional nada and Tim “Livewire e Richie Schley from Ca m Derby, England. Th r world champion fro me for d an r ed ne sid un eer fre Columbia. A on tain Bike Park, British best grip?” scene: Whistler Moun is “Who will achieve the re he n tio es qu y ke e contest? Th
TECHNOLOGY FOOTWEAR
Ninja style in the fairytale woods: while Richie hugs the turn on his bike, Tim leaps from tree stump to tree stump. “I found it hard in the woods at first,” says Tim, “but with time I got used to the new environment and discovered unexpected possibilities.”
R DEE& RIID RUN Wet and slippery: now the TRAXION® outsole comes into its own. Freerunner Tim Shieff vaults over wet cedar.
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, ONE LOCATION TS OR SP O TW : IT M LI S TESTED TO IT RIDER: A MISMATCH? EE FR A US RS VE ER N A FREERUN
FF IEFF SHIE TI M SH TIM
RICH CHIE RI IE SC SCHL HLEY EY
Formation wall riding: the CONTINENTAL® tires and soles had better prove their grip here, otherwise the athletes are on a slippery slope with no chance of stopping. A special rubber compound of the kind used in winter tires allows the biker and the runner to hang on the wall like geckos.
Left: Tim Shieff, nicknamed “Livewire”, is famous for his body control. The 23-year-old Brit ranks as one of the best parkour and freerunning athletes in the world. Right: Richie Schley has every right to call himself a freeride pioneer. The Canadian from Whistler, B.C., was one of the first to make this spectacular version of mountain bike riding known around the world.
Freerunners somersault over walls, dive from gables, spin through underground tunnels using multiple backflips and leap from roof to roof. The combination of elements from gymnastics, breakdancing and martial arts produces breathtaking moves. Tim Shieff recently won the prestigious Red Bull Art of Motion competition, but woodland is a new and unfamiliar setting for the urban athlete. “My first thought was: what’s this city boy doing here?” admits Whistler local Richie Schley. “But after taking a while to get used to things Tim showed why he won the freerunning world championship. As I see it, freerunning in natural surroundings has what it takes to become a completely new type of action sport!” predicts freeriding pro Richie Schley.
TECHNOLOGY FOOTWEAR
A fine drizzle is falling, hazy wisps drift between wet firs, the rocks glisten red and greasy – challenging terrain for bikers and runners. “When I train in London, I wear tracksuit bottoms, a T-shirt and cheap trainers. I wouldn’t get far with those here,” says freerunner Tim Shieff. “The sole’s excellent grip and the high upper on the adidas shoe are what make it possible for me to get the most out of the terrain. But I still couldn’t keep up with the incredible speed that Richie produced here. He knows every stone in Whistler.” N
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WHISTLER Vancouver
DEE& R RIID RUN Location: Bike Park Whistler - www.whistlerbike.com
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Who’s ahead? When the ground gets extremely technical with a lot of tight corners, it appears to favour freerunner Tim Shieff who races towards the fall line with giant leaps.
Going wild: British freerunner Tim Shieff shows the stunts he is known for. Here he pushes himself off the wall of rock, twists in a backflip, spins on the palm of his hand and divebombs down into the depths with a monster jump. At that moment the centrifugal forces press Richie Schley against the steep face.
TECHNOLOGY FOOTWEAR
For a good sole you need The basic ingredients for a sole that will not slip are the profile and the rubber compound. On loose terrain such as gravel, chippings or mud the profile’s studs provide stability. The rubber is crucial for a good grip on smooth surfaces such as boulders or granite slabs. On damp terrain especially many shoes have insufficient grip. But thanks to the new CONTINENTAL® rubber compound the TRAXION® sole of the terrex™ fast r guarantees excellent traction and anti-slip properties here, too.
Technology partner for radical grip
New TRAXION outsole with rubber compound ®
In their quest to meet the demands of top mountain athletes, the shoe developers at adidas looked for a special combination of material and sole design. They found an appropriate recipe with the ideal technology partner who knows how to produce excellent grip and has long been a sports enthusiast: CONTINENTAL®. The cooperation between the adidas sports brand and the tire specialist CONTINENTAL® is the perfect blend of shoe know-how and rubber expertise. As a premium brand, CONTINENTAL® has 140 years experience of rubber compounds and is now one of the world’s leading suppliers to the automotive and bicycle industries. For the tire experts, safety and maximum performance are just as much the watchwords as they are for the sports professionals at adidas. To meet the requirements of the adidas developers, they had to adapt the complex compound technology to the needs of hiking boots. The close cooperation between CONTINENTAL® and adidas resulted in a hiking boot that provides perfect safety and stability in all conditions and thus guarantees absolute control and enjoyment.
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Perfect grip whatever the weather The material’s high performance meant that the adidas shoe designers could create a very open profile, with the small contact surface area of the studs being enough to achieve exceptionally good grip.
It’s all in the mix In order to find the perfect composition of the rubber compound, the developers at CONTINENTAL® and adidas carried out months of tests and comparisons in the laboratory. This involved examining numerous rubber compounds to test their grip on various surfaces both wet and dry. Hours of comparison, evaluation, modification and then more testing, evaluating and modifying were carried out until all the experts were satisfied with the result: for the sole of the terrex™ fast r the CONTINENTAL® engineers selected a rubber compound inspired by the Black Chili rubber compound which has proved its worth among MTB riders.
Only the combination of CONTINENTAL® rubber compounds and the innovative sole design makes outdoor athletes faster and safer in the mountains. Practical tests served to back this up: adidas equipped a test team with prototypes that confirmed the outstanding traction provided by the TRAXION® outsole in a variety of different conditions. A comparison with similar models available on the market shows that the CONTINENTAL® rubber compound offers up to 30% more grip on dry and wet surfaces.
30%
dry surface
wet surface
Traction tests carried out on the new TRAXION® outsole of the terrex™ fast r in the adidas Component Traction Testing Equipment
Up to more grip on dry and wet surfaces.* * Compared to similar shoe models available on the market.
BEAT KAMMERLANDER
dedicate BEAT KAMMERLANDER
More than 30 years of devotion
on rock and ice have left their mark.
A mark that stands for raising the bar in
no-compromise climbing philosophy in vertical space. And a mark in Beat’s climbing soul. We visited Beat at home in Vorarlberg/Austria to find out more.
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ed! BEAT’S HOME, AUSTRIA –– 05:39 PM
TEXT FLO SCHEIMPFLUG, MIKE MANDL PHOTOS MICHAEL MEISL, ARCHIVE
In an age dominated by the desperate search for image and identity, where the smallest glimmer of achievement is dragged screaming and kicking into dazzling limelight, Beat Kammerlander’s internet presence appears rather modest, almost a touch anachronistic. On the other hand, his laissez-faire impression is more deliberate than it would appear at first glance. It reveals that Beat Kammerlander apparently does not place great value on being represented in a place where he does not feel at home. And quite right too, since for more than three decades the stage for Beat Kammerlander as an extreme climber and mountain guide has been ice and rock. His routes ascend vertical faces. If you want to get to know them, then you have to climb. Although that is easier said than done, because Beat’s first ascents are among the most difficult to be found anywhere.
BEAT KAMMERLANDER
Failure is a trusty companion. There are a number of projects that I didn’t manage and filed away as unfinished: e.g. WoGü. Shortly after the first ascent I was pretty close to achieving the route redpoint, but I failed. I don’t think another chance like that will come along, because there is nothing so difficult. But maybe of similar difficulty?
Despite the soaring interest in sport climbing and the continuing inflation in degrees of difficulty, enthusiasm for bigger walls and alpine terrain took a downturn because of their wicked reputation for crumbling rock and poorly secured lines – a blend that no longer satisfied the modern craving for solid rock and hard moves. But that was exactly what attracted Beat: “I preferred to create something new on the rock and implement a good idea. If you look carefully and have the right eye, you’ll always find something. I liked to seek out projects that really drew me in.”
Roaring ‘80s Beat’s climbing career started in 1977 in the Rätikon. That was where in 1981 he achieved the first ascent of Vergissmeinnicht (7-, A4). In the ‘80s climbing started to blossom as a modern sport. In the whirlwind Beat was drawn to Buoux, Cimai and Verdon, the climbing hotspots of the day in France, the Mecca for climbers. With Chouca (8a+/Buoux), Crime Passionel (8b/Verdon) and Les braves gens ne courent pas les rues (8b/Verdon) he managed to repeat the most difficult routes at that time. Back home again, ascents of Affenfresser (10-) and Lohn der Angst (9+) on Schellenberg demonstrate that he also possesses mental capacities at the highest level.
While more and more difficult routes were being climbed in the southern hotspots and everybody endeavoured put their signature in the annals of climbing history, Beat started investigating the rock faces of the Rätikon, influenced by pioneers such as Martin Scheel. He focussed his attention not just on the classic, logical lines, cracks, traverses and chimneys, but also on the illogical, smooth faces that appeared impossible: “The realisation of a difficult project requires long-term mental application, gentle probing until you reach the point where you sense that it could work. All that together generates the feeling inside that has always inspired me, and still does; absolute, ultimate adventure!”
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I have a healthy appreciation of fear and also a good way of dealing with fear. I have never gone for impulsive,
Seth-Abderhalden-Gedächtnisführe, 2010 I Photo: Michael Meisl
crazy stunts.
... it’s a completely different game if you have to fight your way up with everything you have in you, and that was the thing that fascinated me with all of these ascents: climbing into the unknown. Subjecting myself to the stages where I could feel a mental block.
To bolt or not to be
Beat: “What I wanted was for the way I opened up a route to leave something that was more than a number denoting difficulty. Climbing has to be more than just athletic – for me the question is: Can I handle the mental aspect of the climb? Of course you can abseil down from above to check everything out, but it’s a completely different game if you have to fight your way up with everything you have in you, and that was the thing that fascinated me with all of these ascents: climbing into the unknown. Subjecting myself to the stages where I could feel a mental block.”
WoGü, 1997 I Photo: Peter Mathis
Setting drilled anchors seemed essential on climbs this severe, but an initial ascent using anchors contradicted the strict ethics of alpine climbing where the mechanical application of securing points was looked down upon with scorn. On the other hand it seemed unavoidable because the time had come to open up climbing in the mountains in a previously unimaginable dimension, at the same time as adhering to traditional philosophy.
I could set a bolt, but then I would lose the game where it is
Indian Creek, Utah, 2008 I Photo: privat archive Beat
BEAT KAMMERLANDER
all about maintaining trust in your own feelings, and not to lose it.
So the style had been defined: starting the route without having inspected it first. Each section had to be climbed, bolts were for safety, not for upward progress, and should, if possible, only be applied in the climbing position. They were few and far between considering the immense difficulty, and falls were correspondingly far. What this climbing philosophy really means is to be aware of the fact that you are climbing into nothingness on your own and that you always have to bear failure and retreat in mind. There was no guarantee of success: “I’m afraid as any other, but I often manage to rise to the challenge as soon as I’m in the thick of the action. I’m a bit of a chameleon in that way. With the task presented by the rock I can quickly change, get out of my shell and do something crazy. It’s usually not anything dangerous, it’s mainly a mental thing, a balancing act between my own fear and deep-down concentration.” Climbing New Age (8a+) in 1989, Beat managed to raise the bar towards grade 10 for the first time in the history of the Rätikon. The echo of this success ensured international fame because New Age was only the third route in the Alps with this kind of degree of difficulty after Scaramouche (8a+, Huber-Huber 1989, Berchtesgaden Alps) and Via Bonvecchia (8a, M. Zanolla, Pale di San Martino/Dolomites).
Silbergeier, 1994 I Photo: Wolfgang Muxel
Silbergeier, 1994 I Photo: Peter Mathis
Of course the risk has to be calculated in.
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This route was way ahead of its time when you think that back then there were only four 8c routes that had ever been climbed: Wall Street (Wolfgang Güllich), Maginot Line & Agincourt (Ben Moon) and Liquid Amber (Jerry Moffat). However, all of these routes were sport climbing situations. None were situated in anything remotely resembling alpine terrain. It was during this period that the partnership spanning many years between Beat and adidas started: “This partnership has had an extremely positive effect on my career. From the very beginning I had the opportunity to fully concentrate on my projects and at the same time to act independently. Nobody stuck their oar in or tried to persuade me to do something I didn’t want to do. I even had long breaks due to injuries, but that was never a problem. I realised that our relationship was based on solid foundations because the company stood behind me even when I wasn’t producing results. It was, and still is, a partnership based on absolute trust.”
“Reflection is the most important thing. I have to be completely sure about what I am doing. What kind of opportunities are there for placing protection? What is the terrain like for falling? Can I hurt myself? What is really important is the trust between me and my belaying partner. And then you need patience, to wait for the right time before starting the climb. The most exciting aspect is that everything can work out quite differently. You can’t programme success.“
Wherever he lays his hands, that’s his home Beat Kammerlander, who achieved visionary climbs in Rätikon and continuously raised the limits of the doable, posseses a bandwidth of talents that only a very few climbers have had before him, or since. The term “all-rounder” is the only generic term that sums up his wide range of abilities. Although this still doesn’t do justice to Beat’s repertoire. Cliffs, base climbs, ice walls, rock faces: wherever he lays his hands, that’s his home. Especially when it gets psychological. The risk is on initial ascents like Body Count (WI7, 180m, Brandnertal 1999), Marylin Manson (WI6, 280m, Brandnertal 1999) or Try to Trust (M8/WI7, 140m, Krippenstein 2009) but they should never be pushed; you have to develop a respect for the conditions presented by the rock and ice.
Another point is that I’m not the type to desperately conjure up something just so I can sell it – and adidas has never changed that. What I mean is that they let me get on with my life and don’t pressure me into things. In 1994 Beat climbed the route with which he is most often associated: Silbergeier (8b+) on the 5th Kirchlispitze in Rätikon. Steeper, more exposed, more impossible, supernatural “like a walk on the moon”. Not least because Silbergeier took on a certain timelessness; even today, 20 years after the initial ascent, it is only the best of the best who are able to enter their names in the summit book. How does Beat prepare for this kind of tour?
Flying Circus, 2006 I Photo: Peter Mathis
In 1990 Beat discovered a new route that seemed even more impossible on the 7th Kirchlispitze and opened up the Unendliche Geschichte (Never Ending Story), which he climbed redpoint in 1991, rated 8b+, and regards as his most important first ascent. Beat: “I climbed this route on 9th September and I can only remember that I don’t remember much. The climb was such an abstract experience for me that it didn’t sink in for a long time. This wasn’t the only situation where the first ascent was more important to me than the redpoint climb.”
BEAT KAMMERLANDER
In contrast to the custom that is becoming more and more popular – simply subjecting yourself to the conditions – this fairness approach appears to be almost anachronistic. In the end though, it is just an extension of the principle idea that has always accompanied Beat Kammerlander. Beat doesn’t believe in condemning other approaches though: “In my opinion you can only try to give preference to an ideology and hope that others follow a good example. The greatest thing for me is that my friends respect me as somebody who has indicated the direction in which climbing can develop and that people take these ideas as the benchmark for their future projects.”
I have learned that it is quite feasible to do something dangerous as long as you know how to reduce the risk. This process was absolutely fascinating.
A statement of art In 1997, Marco Wasiner, a climber from Bludenz, managed to climb the lower section of Prinzip Hoffnung on the Bürser ledge in Vorarlberg. Soon after that, Beat succeeded in climbing the whole route: 8b/+ grade of difficulty. While the project seemed to have reached an end, instead of the contentment and relief felt after a difficult challenge, there was a feeling of unrest, the source of which was difficult to pin down. It wasn’t until Beat reflected on the rock face again and he toyed with the thought of a clean climb that the unrest was quelled. The decisive influences were several visits to the States and involvement in climbing cracks: “It’s a game governed by completely different set of rules that fascinated me and encouraged me to extend my more than ten visits to the USA. I wanted to get on top of this issue and was totally motivated because it involved so much mental work. Of course you need new techniques, but it primarily has to do with intellect.” Finally Beat decided to attempt Prinzip Hoffnung (Principle of Hope) from a completely new perspective, using only removable protection placed during the climb. Beat trained for a whole summer to prepare both mentally and physically to make Principle of Hope his own. There was nothing more important since with every meter that Beat moved away from the last, less and less promising “security” during his attempts, he focussed on one principle hope: the hope that he can keep going, the hope that it goes well and the hope that it works out. “What I learned during this process was that it is quite feasible to do something dangerous as long as you know how to reduce the risk. This was the most fascinating thing about it.” With attempts underway in earnest, the falls at the key point were not long in coming. Then the protection that had been fixed with sweat and clenched teeth had to be removed piece by piece, wiping the slate clean for the next attempt. “When I take on a dangerous challenge I make sure I always have mental and physical reserves. I would definitely rate myself as a cautious climber. If I know that it is not going to work, then I try and relax until I can concentrate again and I’m ready to have another go.”
Beat didn’t give up hope and in winter 2009 finally managed to climb the much yearned-for route Prinzip Hoffnung (E9/10, 8b/+) without falling, setting a new milestone in his climbing career on a par with Unendliche Geschichte and Silbergeier.
The future One thing is sure: Beat is always going to be climbing somewhere. Because with motivation, “that’s no problem, you just have to be able to compensate. After phases in which I have to do things that I don’t enjoy so much, or am unable to climb as often as I would like, follow others that are exactly the opposite. Then I immediately attain maximum motivation.” And Beat will continue to remain true to his philosophy: “Of course I could do the rounds and attempt to repeat difficult tours, but I don’t find that so motivating. There will be new lines, new projects, mostly in my homeland probably, because nobody is out on his own or against the others here – everybody helps if necessary. That is the reason why I enjoy climbing here most.” We drink another cup of tea and look out over the Vorarlberg mountains and can well understand what Beat means. Beat is a man of the mountains. He has left his mark there. And the mountains have left their mark in him. And that’s the way it should be.
p
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!
If I can continue to develop something extreme like Prinzip Hoffnung, that is a huge personal enrichment for me. I’m not into hara-kiri, I prefer to do things using
prinzip all the experience from my life.
HOFFNUNG
Prinzip Hoffnung, 2008 I Photo: Peter Mathis
Beat, 1977 I Photo: privat archive Beat
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FLY AND CLIMB
TYROL, AUSTRIA –– 03:41 PM
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PHOTO DANIEL ZANGERL, CHRISTIAN WALDEGGER
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THE SEARCH IS ON
FLY & CLIMB CLIMBERS GET AIRBORNE
Finding and planning a new climb is a timeconsuming business. Perhaps you’ve spotted the next challenge on a previous tour, but how long is the approach and what is it really like once you are halfway up the rock face? And then getting there and back is as much of a challenge as the climb itself. “There’s nothing more disappointing than lugging all your equipment on foot for hours only to find that the rock face is too crumbly to climb...” So says Daniel Peis, a climbing and paragliding fanatic from Innsbruck. “But that’s where our flying skills come in.” Daniel and his fellow flying climber Oliver Vötter have developed a novel way of picking out potential climbs from the air; what started off as a passion for extended flights soaring over the mountains has evolved into a strategy for planning the next climbing challenge. It was in summer 2010 on an extended flight over the Eppzirl Valley in the Karwendel Range that an imposing rock caught Daniel’s eye: the Freiungszahn north face. From closer inspection on a fly-past it looked like as if it would be ideal for a first ascent; good quality rock and dry too. He took a series of photos of the wall so that back on terra firma Daniel and Oliver could plan the perfect climb.
FLY AND CLIMB
Daniel first set out in March 2011 to create this breathtaking route; four days’ work all in all. Day one was the most memorable because it was the most grueling – 17 hours on the rock face and then having to find their way down again by the light of their mobile phones. What fascinates Daniel most about setting up a new route is that it’s such an enriching process. “Finding a route that has not been climbed before and drilling in bolts – that is something that is going to last and you have to get right,” he says. “You’ve got to have worked out the moves in advance, before you leave your mark with the cordless drill.” “It gets really interesting when you realize the new line up the rock face is limited by your own technical climbing capabilities,” he goes on. “There’s nobody to give you advice or their opinion as you work out the holds and where to place the next bolt. The entire line is free – no magnesium patches, no marks, the holds have only been exposed to the elements, not hands and feet.” There is also the psychological game of wondering whether anybody is going to ever climb this route – that’s an additional pressure. Having created the route, the pair plan to save time and energy by flying back for the redpoint. So all they need now is good flying weather.
APPROACH FROM THE AIR Oliver is at the launch site grinning from ear to ear with anticipation: fine weather is forecast for the next couple of days. The fog that clung to the base of the mountains earlier in the day has dispersed, giving way to perfect flying conditions.
FLY & CLIMB
THE PERFECT ROUTE
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Mountain jackdaws demonstrate how easy it is to get airborne and soar away into the sky. Daniel lets the paraglider canopy fill with air and then runs to join them, piloting his wing along the Nordkette to the west. Oliver whoops behind him: “Eppzirl here we come!” The feeling of freedom is awesome as you fly past familiar terrain, looking down on ant-like hikers who are also making the most of the beautiful weather. The only downside is that the pilots won’t be able to complete the climb on the same day; waiting for the thermals to develop has not left them with sufficient time to reach the landing zone, start climbing and get back off the mountain before nightfall. They will have to spend the night at Eppzirl mountain hut and tackle the climb the next morning. 137 minutes after the take-off from the Hafelekar the two paragliders reached the south side of the Erlspitze, caught a thermal to clear the Freiungen and then swept round to the north side to inspect the climb. They were delighted to find that the whole rock face was dry and returned to land at the Eppzirl mountain hut, with an hour of soft sunlight still to spare.
REDPOINT PILOTS As the next day dawned the paragliding climbers could hardly wait to get started. After completing routine equipment checks Daniel led the first pitch – a nice one to get warmed up – and easily reached the first belay point. The first four pitches flew by, but then came the critical fifth pitch where Daniel knew he could not afford to make the slightest mistake. Oliver did an excellent belaying job and encouraged Daniel as he moved with calculated precision – concentrating 100% on the here-and-now towards the end of this almost 40m long section. The sound in his ears became distorted; he could only hear his own heartbeat and breathing, as he made each motion like a finely tuned machine. After a seemingly neverending 55 minutes he at last reached the next belay point. All exhaustion floated away leaving him feeling like a hero in his own world.
137 MINUTES LATER THE TWO PARAGLIDERS REACHED THE SOUTH SIDE OF THE ERLSPITZE, CAUGHT A THERMAL TO CLEAR THE FREIUNGEN – TO INSPECT THE CLIMB ...
source: Google
Hafelekar
AUSTRIA Innsbruck
FLY AND CLIMB
The sun was almost on the horizon as they stood at the second-last belay point and looked skywards – just another 20m and two bolts to go! Looking back down the 380m rock face, between their legs they could make out their backpacks on the ground. Daniel knew his dream was within reach as he securely placed the second piece of removable protection on the last pitch – and then it happened: the hold in his right hand broke away and suddenly he was falling towards Oliver with a huge piece of rock. Luckily he was uninjured but his nerves were frayed. Daniel: “I really didn’t think I was going to make it after abseiling down to Oliver. I felt exhausted and was frustrated at feeling so low; you spend hours fighting your way up a rock face and then a hold breaks off in your hand, dashing your redpoint dream.” He doesn’t know whether it was stubbornness or pride, but Daniel just couldn’t give in; the weather was perfect and the view so uplifting. Laughing out loud he managed to shake off the frustration. Then, starting again from the same point, he asked Oliver to belay him dynamically as before – just in case – and then gathered all his strength to climb as smoothly and efficiently as possible towards the summit.
... WHEN YOU REALIZE THE NEW LINE UP THE ROCK FACE IS What an indescribable feeling, reaching the LIMITED BY YOUR OWN top and hearing his shouts of rapture echo 3 times TECHNICAL CLIMBING off the surrounding rock faces! Daniel and Oliver CAPABILITIES. enjoyed a few minutes on the summit absorbing the fantastic view across the Karwendel mountains. With tears in his eyes Daniel let it sink in that his redpoint dream was still within reach. 8
7c 32m
7 7a+ 25m
Three weeks later Daniel and Oliver returned to successfully claim the redpoint, fulfilling the ultimate goal of their ambitious Fly & Climb project, and Daniel’s dream.
6 6b+ 42m
MAKING A NAME FOR YOURSELF 5
7c 36m
4
6b 37m
3 6b 35m
2
7b 31m
1
5c 30m
Once you’ve achieved the redpoint ascent, you’ve got to name it. Standing at the foot of the rock face possible names for Daniel’s first alpine ascent were already crossing his mind. “I had this song by Korn that I couldn’t get out of my head,” says Daniel with a smile, “All Day I Dream About Sex. So that’s where the name came from.”
TECHNICAL DATA Paraglider: Ozone Mojo 3 Equipment: GPS, 2-way radio, 150 bolts, cordless drill, climbing shoes, climbing belt, belay device, 25 express slings, numerous contact slings, 280m ropes, set of wedges plus Friends and a helmet Daniel’s climbing buddies: Georg Erlacher (first three days of creating the initial ascent) and Oliver Vötter (day four of initial ascent/paragliding/redpoint)
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FLY & CLIMB
FREIUNGSZAHN NORTH FACE
DANIEL PEIS Date of birth: 18 January 1986 Home town: Innsbruck Sports: climbing and paragliding Favorite quote: “If all you can think about is the FINISH and the summit, then you are never HERE.” Thomas Bubendorfer More info: www.danielpeis.at
TECHNOLOGY APPAREL
GORE-TEX® Active Shell lightweight membrane built for extreme breathability, provides durable waterproof and windproof protection, guarantees optimum comfort during high pulse activities.
specifically tailored for unique motion patterns of outdoor sports. Ergonomic pre-shape and intelligent seam placement to support the athlete’s movements.
Best for full weather protection, high breathability and lightweight packability
terrex™ GTX Active Shell ®
The minimalist terrex™ GORE-TEX® Active Shell Jacket is ideal for fast activities where you are moving at a very high level of physical effort. The 3-Layer jacket offers proven GORE-TEX® weather protection, almost soft shell breathability and is comfortable to wear next to the skin. Moreover the new lamination technology of Active Shell guarantees a very low weight and stowage volume. Thanks to the threedimensional gender-specific FORMOTION™ cut, it creates an athletic and functional fit and optimum freedom of movement for every dynamic situation in the mountains.
Full zip with stand-up collar and pull tab cover
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Adjustable hood adjustable helmet compatible hood
Reflective prints for enhanced visibility and safety in the outdoors
Ventilated Zip Pockets pockets with mesh lining for individual ventilation
Draw cord adjustable hem
BUGABOOS
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BUGABOOS Vancouver
THE WORD ‘BUGABOO’ GENUINELY MEANS AN IMAGINARY OBJECT OF FEAR.
Embedded in rugged glaciers, precipitous needles of rock, scored with complex systems of cracks, soar 1,000 meters into the sky. When the gigantic “shark’s teeth” are bathed in a blood-red light as darkness closes in, it is easy to find them intimidating. Used as an old mining term, “Bugaboo” promises mines with rich resources which are, however, very difficult to extract. The first representatives of the industrialized world to infiltrate the region of the Nunatuks, as they are called by the indigenous population of Canada, were miners spurred by the promise of wealth from bugaboos. But the wealth they hoped for did not materialize, so in 1970 mining ceased in the valley, but the name “Bugaboo” remained. It describes gigantic rocks formed over millions of years from magma, and they will doubtless continue to defy the storms and soar proudly into the heavens for millions of years to come. In 1910 the Austrian Conrad Kain, who had emigrated to Canada, visited the Bugaboos during a reconnaissance expedition. In the years that followed the mountain guide achieved several first ascents. One of his highlights was the first ascent of the Bugaboo Spire.
ALEX LUGER IN BRITISH COLUMBIA
A hundred years later Johannes and I stood on one of the Bugaboos’ spires for the first time – and a long-held wish came true! And as if that wasn’t enough we also had luck on our side: ten days of fine weather was an unexpected boon. The strategy we had been worked out beforehand for a region whose climate was more Patagonian than Californian was swiftly abandoned in favor of the motto “Seize the day,” or, more aptly, “Run it out.” We were highly motivated and climbed every day. Once we went back down into the valley again in the evening to get some food – we didn’t want to waste a single day. They were days of intensive climbing and we were frequently frozen stiff, but we were rewarded every day with fantastic lengths of cracks and unbelievably good weather.
BUGABOOS, CANADA –– 02:24 PM
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TEXT + PHOTO ALEX LUGER
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ALEX LUGER & JOHANNES STEIDL SAVOR WINDLESS MOMENTS ON THE SUMMIT OF CRESCENT SPIRE.
BUGABOOS
THE BUGABOOS – PLAYLIST: Approach from Calgary Airport to Applebee Campground, Bugaboos, Purcell Mountains, B.C. DAY 1: Sunshine Crack, Snowpatch Spire, 5.11- (on-sight) DAY 2: Energy Crisis, Crescent Spire, 5.11+ DAY 3: Northeast Ridge, Bugaboo Spire, 5.8, 2 hours from base camp to summit (on-sight) DAY 4: Rehydrating, eating, regenerating DAY 5: Fingerberry Jam, Pigeon Feathers, 5.12 (on-sight) DAY 6: Beckey-Chouinard, South Howser Tower, 5.10, 4 hours from start of the face to summit (on-sight) DAY 7: The Power of Lard, Snowpatch Spire, 5.12/13DAY 8: Cooper-Kor, Pigeon Spire, 5.10, scary wet traverse
WE WERE INCREDIBLY LUCKY. LATER WE FOUND OUT THAT THESE FANTASTIC CONDITIONS ONLY LASTED THREE WEEKS, THEN THE WEATHER TURNED, THE CRACKS ICED OVER AND THE PEAKS WERE COVERED IN SNOW, MAKING ANY MORE LARGE-SCALE EXPEDITIONS IN THE REGION IMPOSSIBLE.
AFTER A SHORT STORM THE FIRST LOOK OUT OF THE TENT IS FOR TOMORROW’S TARGET.
WHERE THERE’S A CRACK, THERE’S A WAY: JAMMING (PLACING HANDS, ARMS, SHOULDERS AND LEGS IN CRACKS FOR LEVERAGE) HAS TO BE LEARNED.
ONE OF MANY “SHARK’S TEETH”: THE BUGABOO SPIRE. CROSSING IT FROM RIGHT TO LEFT TOOK US THREE HOURS FROM BASE CAMP TO BASE CAMP.
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DRAGON CAMS AND WALLNUTS, A TREMENDOUS RELIEF! THE THOUGHT THAT THE FIRST ASCENT OF MANY OF THE ROUTES HERE WAS ACCOMPLISHED WITHOUT THIS PROTECTION FILLS ME WITH ADMIRATION.
JOHANNES HE ADING FOR PIGEONHOWSER COL THAT TAKES US THROUGH TO THE PIGEON FEATHERS.
A LOGICAL TRAVERSE TAKES US THROUGH THE EASTERN FACE OF SNOWPATCH SPIRE.
KAYAKING
SELFOSS, ICELAND –– 10:33 AM
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TEXT PHILIP BAUES PHOTO JENS KLATT
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ON
WHITE WI
KAYAKING THROUGH RAGING TORRENTS
E T R E A T A W W 65° 48 I 18 II N I 16° 23 I 13 II W
Water has power. It thunders with tremendous force through the canyons of the Earth, inexorably carving deep gullies into the rock. No other mountain sport brings you as close to the water as kayaking. For the professionals on the adidas Sickline team, riding this elemental force is the ne plus ultra – for them, no cataract is too precipitous, no waterfall too high. Crazy? No, but an extreme challenge for body and mind...
A speck of colour stands on the brink of the waterfall. It looks small and lost. But wait – suddenly it moves. It’s a young man wearing a helmet and life jacket. Darting this way and that the kayaker’s eyes feverishly search for a channel to navigate through the chaos of water, rock and foaming spray. Beside him, tons of water hurtle down more than 20m. The paddler closes his eyes one more time and runs through every manoeuvre in his mind again while his arms and upper body perform a silent routine. Moments later the sportsman pulls the spraydeck over the cockpit of his kayak with a look of determination and paddles off with precise strokes – let the ride begin...
KAYAKING
MEXIC CO O
HERE, ON THE BLUE WATER, THE BOYS ARE IN KAYAKI NG HEAVEN. We’re in Chiapas, the southernmost state of Mexico. For ten days now the international team of professional kayakers led by film-maker and extreme paddler Olaf Obsommer has been on the Agua Azul in search of the ultimate kayaking adventure. Waves, white water, waterfalls: it’s the stuff of paddlers’ dreams.
Together the kayakers discuss routes and assess risks to ensure their spectacular exploits are as safe as can be. Nick Troutman, Rafa Ortiz, Matze Brustmann and Sam Sutton (l-r) scouting.
Sam Sutton is not only dreaming the dream, he’s living it. Although the 23-yearold New Zealander has only been kayaking for six years he already ranks among the world’s best: in 2010 the “Mean Maori” was crowned world champion at the adidas Sickline World Championship for extreme kayakers – and again in 2011 all his rivals got to see was the stern of his kayak. But today is not about a perfect run, tenths of seconds or beating opponents. Today Sam wants to get his adrenaline kick by being the first to paddle down a 22m-high waterfall. What is needed here is technique, nerves of steel and plenty of cojones in your trousers. Speaking of which: Sam gave up his first hobby, motocross, when a crash landing almost crushed his hopes of ever fathering any children. He then tried rugby, but the Maori blood he inherited from his grandmother was not thick enough for him to compete with the brawny and super-fit “real” Maoris. Sam’s reason for taking up paddling was purely pragmatic: why not accompany the rafts he was photographing for a local firm in his home town of Rotorua when they went out on the water in order to get an even better angle?
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17° 15 I 45 II N I 92° 7I 13 II W
AGUA AZUL, MEXICO –– 02:15 PM
Ready to rumble But Sam has long since switched sides. Now he performs in front of the camera, sitting in his kayak in the middle of the Mexican jungle, waiting for the signal from his colleagues. Their feet search for footholds on the slippery rocks, their eyes scan the banks for the best rescue point so they can be on hand with the throw bag – because even if each paddler is alone in his or her boat, kayaking is still a team sport. Everyone is in position at last and gives the thumbs-up – the signal for Sam to start. One last deep breath and Sam propels his boat towards the precipice with powerful strokes. There is no way back now. Against the breathtaking backdrop of the cascading water the little paddler looks like a toy figure. The dimensions of the towering waterfall make it clear who is the master here: even the slightest mistake could have fatal consequences. Sam is well aware of it: “Big drops are something very special for me. On the one hand they are totally nerve-racking, on the other they have a magical attraction for me. I love always seeing how far I can push myself. Sometimes you end up getting walloped big time, but there’s nothing to compare with the feeling that you dared take on a big drop or a difficult rapid.
When I get into my paddling gear I feel as if I’m putting on some kind of armour. From that moment on the switch is set firmly to ‘Action’!” When Sam falls over the edge at last the entire crew holds its breath. Never before has anyone dared challenge this waterfall: the fear of injury and respect for the masses of water were just too great. With a final precise stroke on the brink, Sam positions his kayak at the perfect angle for the drop. Whereas for him time seems to stand still, for the guys on the bank it all happens in the blink of an eye: upper body forward over the boat, let the paddle go and smack! After his flight, Sam hits the water. The kayak and its occupant disappear completely, reappearing shortly afterwards bottom up. Using only his hands and a perfect hip technique, Sam rolls the boat upright. Pumped up with adrenaline he punches the air and yells out his elation for all the world to hear. “Whoooooaaaaa!!!” The grin looks as if it will never leave his face. And as he said, the feeling seems to be addictive; still sitting in the kayak, Sam cries out, “Give me more!”
The shimmering blue of the Agua Azul is the result of the large quantity of minerals in the water. The high lime content means branches carried in the water petrify quickly and become part of the river bed. But take care: the travertine is so rough that the kayaks almost stick to it in shallow stretches. That makes it even more difficult for the boys to ride the high waterfalls at exactly the right angle.
KAYAKING
A REAL WATERFALL KINGDOM. IT HAS SOMETHING FOR EVERY FAN OF RUNNING THE RAPIDS. The boss at work: Olaf Obsommer captures the team for posterity on the Selfoss.
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ALDEYJARFOSS, ICELAND –– 03:20 PM
ICEELLA AND IC D
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Kayaking in Iceland is easy: usually you just park the car next to a tourist coach, climb into the boat, ride a waterfall, get back into the car and drive off to the next one. But at the Selfoss you almost have to break sweat: the boats must be carried up a trail past the Dettifoss nearly a kilometer upstream to the Selfoss. The spray is a clue: the 45m-high Dettifoss just shades the Rhine Falls in Schaffhausen as the most powerful waterfall in Europe. Checking the gear before riding the Aldeyjarfoss: the equipment is all set, but are the nerves?
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At the end of the 1990s it was still high enough to be a record-holder among waterfalls: the mighty Aldeyjarfoss in the northern part of the Sprengisandur highland region.
Cosmopolitans in kayaks The constant search for new adventures and extreme sporting challenges drives the athletes on and takes them on a never-ending journey around the globe. Olaf Obsommer, who accompanies the expeditions with his camera, now has more visas stamped in his passport than pairs of underpants in his wardrobe. The kayak virus was passed into Olaf’s blood with his mother’s milk: while still expecting him, his mother used to paddle over the Rhine in his native North Rhine-Westphalia. Now 41, and having settled in Bavaria, he has mellowed somewhat, though his passion for his sport still burns brightly, as he shows every day on the river. “On really difficult white water having all the camera equipment with me in the kayak pushes me to the limit. But the stories alone are not enough to fill my books, so I’ve got no choice but to keep going out on the river with those reckless young hoods,” says Olaf with a grin. His latest project, the television documentary “Auf der Suche nach dem Flussgott” (“In Search of the River God”) has taken the gang not only to Mexico but to Siberia and Iceland as well – a complete contrast to paddling under the Mexican sun. Iceland is rugged, cold, barren but nevertheless stunning.
Volcanoes, deserts of lava, gigantic glaciers, hot springs and the world-famous geysers are reasons enough to journey to the far north. But on their two-week tour the boys were more on the lookout for a natural spectacle of a different kind: “Iceland is a real waterfall kingdom. Whether large or small, with a rivulet or a mighty plume of water, it has something for every fan of running the rapids,” says Olaf, summing up the character of Iceland as a paddling destination. Because team member Bernhard Mauracher from Austria had taken it upon himself to cover the whole distance by car and ferry, the boys had the complete range of equipment at their disposal in Iceland. “We’ve got a tracking system for dolly shots, an underwater casing and the highlight is a 9m long camera crane,” says Jared Meehan, delighted with the range of film equipment. “If we’d have turned up at the airport with that lot the girls at check-in would either have laughed at us or our credit cards would have worn to a frazzle.” The kiwi has accompanied Olaf as second cameraman for several years now, and his creative input gives the video productions a new dimension. For their next trip a few weeks later, the group of travelling sportsmen had to make do with a lot less.
KAYAKING
OLAF OBSOMMER
Driving in Siberia is not without its difficulties. But neither a broken axle, an exhaust pipe dropping off nor a damaged gearbox could stop the boys in their search for white water.
In the Altai Mountains in Russia, traditional expedition paddling was on the agenda. This means that the athletes are often navigating unknown rivers for days on end and are completely on their own. Sleeping bag, foam mattress, Primus and provisions all have to be carried in the kayak – no easy matter on white water of the highest grade. In cases like this you think twice about every energy bar you put in your food bag. For the German Thilo Schmitt, paddling miles away from any kind of civilization is a truly special challenge, too: “Quite simply, you don’t feel so safe with ten kilos of luggage in the boat. And finding a rafter on the bank who’d had an accident certainly didn’t give us any kind of psychological boost. But discovering the deep ravines in Siberia was definitely a unique experience.”
Age 41 Years in a kayak 36 Lives in Flintsbach am Inn, Germany Trained as Industrial engineer & geriatric nurse Occupation adidas Sickline team manager, earns a living from film evenings, TV productions, as a cameraman More info www.big-o-productions.com
MAZHOY GORGE, ALTAI, RUSSIA –– 11:35 AM
But anyone who thinks that, after an exhausting day on the water, anyone is still interested in the heroic exploits or even the deeper significance of it all is mistaken. One look into the paddlers’ faces is enough to reveal what is really going through their minds: there, roast pork, burgers and chocolate cake are parading past. The magic carpet But why are the kayakers prepared to face all these dangers? What prompts them to risk life and limb on the most treacherous white water and towering waterfalls? Paddlers want to feel the elements, pit their strength against them, become one with them. Unlike the mountains whose rock faces have gazed down majestically on the landscape for centuries, water is never still. A river never rests, it meanders down to the valley, effervescent and skittish, slackening only when a lake or river receives it. But kayaking is in essence a mountain sport like any other. It focuses on nature, personal limits, enjoyment and the search for freedom. And what is the culmination of this freedom? What the summit is to the mountaineer, the waterfall is to the white water paddler! The American philosopher Doug Ammons explains the phenomenon like this: “We humans are a very limited species: we cannot run particularly fast, we cannot swim well and we cannot fly. But when we push off from the bank in a kayak we battle our weaknesses and fears. We test our limits – no other species on our planet does this. And we go even further: we break the laws of gravity, break away from the water and fly – by riding waterfalls. A white water kayak reminds me of a magic carpet: learn to control it and it carries you away.”
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R RUS SS SIIAA
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SAM SUTTON Age 23 Lives in Rotorua, New Zealand Occupation Professional kayaker & rafting business owner Biggest success World extreme kayaking champion 2010 & 2011 Hobbies Jet skiing, paragliding More info www.rotorua-rafting.co.nz
Altai: the name means “colourful mountains�. And the team for the Russian expedition was also a colourful mixture: ten people from six different countries. What they all share is a love of kayaking and a craving for great adventures. Which is what you can experience in the region where Russia, Kazakhstan, Mongolia and China meet. Their extremely high water made many rivers almost impossible to navigate. But Tomass Marnics seems completely unfazed as he enjoys the wild ride.
Having now got used to the dimensions of Russian white water the Trans-Siberian Express (Tomass Marnics, Stephane Pion, Jared Meehan, Philip Baues, Sam Sutton, Thilo Schmitt) enjoy the rollercoaster ride in the Mazhoy Gorge.
SPECIALS
SPRING SUMMER 2012 2
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EVERYDAY OUTDOOR Cool bouldering and slacklining equipment for every day – that’s the new EVERYDAY Outdoor Collection. The awesomely bright colors of the apparel and footwear can be perfectly combined with each other. Young outdoor enthusiasts can now enjoy the functionality and cool design of this new collection every day. The ED 2.5-Layer Jacket with hood and taped seams is perfect for everyone who appreciates lightweight and yet 100% protection against wind and rain. Due to its colorful allover print, this lightweight jacket perfectly matches the other items in the collection.
The ED Boulder Pants and ED Boulder Shorts for girls and boys in denim look are especially cool. Thanks to their loose yet functional cut they allow maximum freedom of movement for bouldering and slacklining and look the part as everyday wear too. Girls combine this with the Tank Top while boys have the choice between different Graphic Tees. In addition the EDO Collection also covers CLIMAPROOF ® Windjackets as well as Soft Shell and Fleece Jackets, Check Shirts and for the girls there is also a Skirt available.
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The BOAT CLIMACOOL® Lace is the ideal everyday outdoor shoe. It’s extremely light, dries out very fast – thanks to its polyester mesh panels – and looks cool in a wide selection of colors. With its flat profile this shoe is ideally suited to slacklining.
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Uli‘s Outfit ED Crochet Beanie #X17566 ED 2.5-Layer Jacket #X11537 ED Boulder Shorts #X17666 Alex‘ Outfit ED Soft Shell Jacket #X16499 ED Boulder Shorts #X30881 Martin‘s Outfit ED Scribble Tee #X31855 ED Boulder Pants #X11274 Felix‘ Outfit ED Graphic Tee #X17764 ED Boulder Pants #X30874 Alexandra‘s Outfit ED Crochet Beanie #X12101 ED Tank #X17820 ED Boulder Pants #X13325 Footwear All BOAT CLIMACOOL® Lace
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The adidas HB35 Backpack carries easily on longer treks thanks to the pre-formed shoulder straps and the moulded back construction. This backpack also has an ice-axe carrying feature, a large main compartment and a zip pocket for valuables. Ruggedly multi functional, the adidas GB100 Duffel Bag offers 100 litres of volume and has removable shoulder straps that allow you to wear the bag also as backpack. Made of PVC-free tarpaulin, a strong, flexible and water resistant fabric, with metal zips and D-rings on the body. Compression straps secure the load. Also available: Duffel Bags with 40 or 70 litres of volume.
terrex™ EYEWEAR Maximum function and minimum weight – the successful terrex™ eyewear range is extending with a lightweight and narrowly shaped outdoor model, bringing optimal vision within the reach of extreme mountaineers and speed hikers, as well as those with a more leisurely approach to mountaineering. The terrex™ FAST is distinguished by its light weight, modern design, simple handling and first-class function – for ultimate peak experiences. More infos on adidas.com/eyewear
EXPEDITION BAGS
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terrex™ HB35 #V86966 terrex™ GB100 #X21948
GIRLS 1side Fleece Hoodie #X14166 GIRLS Tee 1 #X14170 GIRLS Zip-Off Pants #X13854 terrex™ Mid GTX® K #V24458
Equipping the next outdoor generation,
OUTDOOR KIDS Young outdoor athletes have especially high expectations of their equipment. It has to fit perfectly, look cool, be easy to pull on and take off, protect against the cold, heat, UV radiation, wind and rain, and provide the necessary safety.
Safety is covered by the reflective elements provided on all jackets and footwear, making them more visible from the front, rear and sides. Contact details can also be written on a nameplate inside the jacket in case the jacket – or child – is ever lost. All items are tailored to the specific anatomy of children, the waistband is adjustable and the hood with peak can simply be removed from any of the jackets. To prepare your kids always for any weather conditions the new adidas Kids range features CLIMAPROOF® Storm Jackets, Soft Shell and Fleece Jackets, Tees and Check Shirts as well as Cargo Pants and Shorts. For the girls there are also a Skort and corresponding Leggings available. With adidas, up-and-coming mountain sports enthusiasts can equip themselves from head to toe for their debut mountaineering, climbing and hiking adventures.
PETIT DRU BASE JUMP
THE RUSSIAN VALERY ROZOV BASE JUMPED FROM PETIT DRU WEST FACE. DURING AN INTERVIEW HE TOLD US ABOUT THE RISKS INVOLVED, WHAT IT FEELS LIKE TO FLY, AND WHETHER HE EVER FEELS AFRAID.
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READY TEXT NATASCHA KNECHT PHOTO THOMAS SENF
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PETIT DRU, FRANCE –– 09:51 AM
PETIT DRU BASE JUMP
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THE PETIT DRU (3,733M) IS A MAGNET FOR CLIMBERS, AN EXTREMELY BEAUTIFUL, SLENDER AND POINTED MOUNTAIN IN THE MONT BLANC RANGE. THE WEST FACE IS BREATHTAKINGLY HIGH AND STEEP, BUT NOT QUITE VERTICAL AT THE TOP, CONSIDERABLY INCREASING THE RISK WHEN BASE JUMPING WITH THE WINGSUIT. DESPITE THIS, THE RUSSIAN VALERY ROZOV (47) DARED TO TAKE THIS RECORD JUMP.
Valery, born 26 December 1964 in Russia, is the most successful base climber of our time. He combines alpine climbing and base jumping, climbing challenging ice and rock routes to summits that nobody has jumped off with a wingsuit before – high mountains in the Alps, in Patagonia, Russia, Greenland, the Himalayas, the USA and Antarctica. Between 1998 and 2006 he won numerous skydiving championships, including two World Championships and the European Masters. So far he has completed more than 8,000 skydives and 1,100 base jumps. Valery Rozov is married, father to three sons, and lives in Moscow.
VALERY
ROZOV
VALERY, WHEN YOU LANDED AFTER THE PETIT DRU JUMP YOU SAID YOU WOULDN’T ATTEMPT THIS BASE JUMP AGAIN. Did I really say that? There were bad weather conditions on that day; I had a strong side wind to deal with. On top of that, the first 70m below the exit point are not quite vertical, which makes the jump all the more difficult. I knew that the base jump is possible, but it was a difficult decision. Should I do it or not? I was hoping that the wind would die down a bit, but it got stronger and stronger. So then I decided: it’s now or never. NOT A PERFECT EXIT, POOR WEATHER CONDITIONS. YOUR FREE FALL LASTED ONE MINUTE AND 30 SECONDS. WHAT WAS GOING THROUGH YOUR HEAD? I wasn’t able to really enjoy the flight. I was cold, nervous and tired. My plan was to fly right down into the valley. However, due to the strong wind I took the decision during the flight to change course and land on the glacier instead. Normally I can relax during the flight; think about home and my family. HOW MUCH RISK DO YOU HAVE TO TAKE ON BOARD? HAVE YOU EVER ABORTED A FLIGHT JUST BEFORE JUMPING? Normally I decide before I’m standing at the exit point. I analyse the rock face, my capabilities and the weather. Those are the main criteria. And I have my rules: if one of the three criteria is not okay, that’s still okay for me. But if two are not okay, then I don’t jump. YOU ARE NOT A TYPICAL BASE JUMPER, BUT A BASE CLIMBER: FIRST YOU CLIMB AN IMPOSING MOUNTAIN AND THEN YOU LOOK FOR A SUITABLE EXIT POINT. NOBODY DOES THAT AS SUCCESSFULLY AS YOU DO. Base jumping can be a very different experience, depending on who you are. I like mountains as far back as I can remember. I started with climbing the classic way, then combined with parachuting. Later I got into skydiving and skysurfing. I liked that so much that I began base jumping. WHAT IS IT LIKE TO BE ABLE TO FLY LIKE A BIRD? Actually, base jumping is more like flying like an aeroplane than a bird. NO EMOTIONS DURING THE FLIGHT? Yes, of course. I feel enormous joy. Sometimes disappointment, if the flight didn’t go as well as I hoped.
PETIT DRU BASE JUMP
HOW DO YOU TRAIN? I climb, mountaineer, run, do skydives and smaller base jumps, I am often on the go all over the world to turn my base climbs into reality. I stick at it constantly and am actually always ready to take on large projects. HOW IMPORTANT IS MENTAL FITNESS FOR BASE JUMPING? Extremely important. More important than physical fitness. Mental strength grows with experience. You must always be aware of the risk. Fatality applies to me too, not just others. However, that doesn’t mean that I am going to stop doing unusual things. But I don’t want to stretch my luck too often. YOU ARE MARRIED AND THE FATHER OF THREE CHILDREN, YOUR YOUNGEST SON IS TWO. DOES THIS RESPONSIBILITY INFLUENCE YOUR PROJECTS? When my eldest son was born 21 years ago, I was too young to think about family obligations. That changes with age. Today I train even more to make my jumps even safer. NOBODY DOES BASE CLIMBING AS INTENSIVELY AND AS SUCCESSFULLY AS YOU DO. YOU HAVE GIVEN BASE JUMPING A NEW DIMENSION. IS THERE STILL POTENTIAL? More and more people are getting into base jumping. Better wingsuits will be developed so that you can fly even further. What would be great is if more people were to do what I do: climb high mountains and then jump down from them. There is no better and quicker way to get back down into the valley. Sometimes the climb takes several days; the free fall takes less than two minutes. LIKE ON PETIT DRU, WHY DID YOU REALLY WANT TO JUMP FROM THIS MOUNTAIN, EVEN THOUGH THE CONDITIONS WERE NOT IDEAL? It is a very well-known mountain, popular with climbers. I saw it for the first time as a child. Climbers are always looking for new routes – whereas I am looking for mountains that nobody has jumped off with a wingsuit before.
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ARE YOU EVER FRIGHTENED? Of course I do. I have respect for every jump. Sometimes it is difficult to find the balance between desire and reality. But thanks to my experience I am able to assess my capabilities and my projects fairly accurately.
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MONT BLANC 4,810M
CHAMONIX 1,035M
BASE JUMP
PETIT
DRU
The Petite Aiguille du Dru, or Petit Dru in short, is a 3,733m-high summit in the Mont Blanc massif near Chamonix in France. In July 2011 Valery Rozov (47) leapt with his wingsuit from an altitude of 3,350m over the breathtaking drop of the west face. His free fall lasted one minute and 30 seconds. Elevation: 1,800m. He took 7.5 hours for the climb. He was accompanied by his climbing partner of many years Alexander Ruchkin, photographer Thomas Senf and cameraman Maxim Malanchuk. Due to poor weather conditions with strong winds, they bivouacked for one night just below the summit before Valery Rozov made his record jump.
WOMEN’S SPECIAL
RODELLAR, SPAIN –– 06:35 PM
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COLORFUL PLASTIC HOLDS HAVE MADE THEM STRONG: THE YOUNG WOMEN CLIMBERS HAVE LEARNT A LOT IN THE HALL. NOW THEY’RE NOT ONLY MAKING HEADLINES AT INTERNATIONAL COMPETITIONS, BUT ALSO CONQUERING REAL ROCK FACES OF THE HIGHEST GRADES. A NEW GENERATION IS ENTERING THE FRAY WITH GIRL POWER. MAKE A NOTE OF SASHA DIGIULIAN, MÉLISSA LE NEVÉ AND BARBARA ZANGERL – THEY ARE NAMES WE WOULD DO WELL TO REMEMBER.
girls on the rocks Hooked on heights: “Moving up the climbing wall was exhilarating. I had to do it again!” It is now twelve years since Sasha DiGiulian’s passion was sparked. She was seven years old at the time, and a chance event, a kids party for her brother Charlie, two years her senior, brought the little girl into the “Sports Rock” indoor climbing centre in Alexandria near Washington D.C. Years later her mother Andrea told the local papers in Virginia of her complete surprise when she saw her daughter “scrambling up the walls like a monkey” while the boys, for whom the whole event had really been arranged, found it rather difficult. Up to then, Andrea DiGiulian had thought her daughter was destined to be a figure skater or a ballerina, but the girl found the practice sessions she was obliged to attend in these disciplines tedious. “Never had a sport felt so natural to me as climbing did,” remembers Sasha. So her mother started taking her to the climbing gym more and more often.
Sasha DiGiulian, Cosi Fan Tutte (8c+), Spain I Photo: Reini Fichtinger
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Sasha DiGiulian, Pure Imagination (9a), USA I Photo: Keith Ladzinski
WOMEN’S SPECIAL
THE 19-YEAR-OLD AMERICAN IS CURRENTLY A WORLD-BEATER. NOT ONLY IN COMPETITIONS, BUT ALSO OUTSIDE ON HARD ROUTES, FOR EXAMPLE IN SPAIN. LAST AUTUMN SHE EVEN CLIMBED UP TO THE VERY HIGHEST GRADE OF DIFFICULTY, 9A.
digiulian SASHA
Today the 19-year-old is occasionally referred to as “Pink Girl” by her fellow climbers, and it doesn’t bother her. “Pink is my favorite color,” she confesses, and on the day of the interview she just happens to be wearing a sports shirt, shoes and friendship bracelet of this color as she sits like a model, small, petite and pretty, on the wooden bench opposite, replying politely to all the questions. But don’t be fooled either by her elfin appearance or the shocking pink nail varnish that can be seen on several photos as her fingers grip hard boulders: Sasha is one of the new breed of very young, very strong women in the climbing scene, if not the strongest. In October last year the teenager raised the bar shortly before turning 19, completing her hardest routes to date. In her favorite region, Red River Gorge in Kentucky, she climbed the “Pure Imagination” route, thereby becoming the first American and only the third woman worldwide to climb a 9a. “The holds are sharp and very small, but despite the skin battle, the climb is amazingly fun and aesthetic,” she wrote ecstatically in an email the next day. “This was hands down the hardest climb I’ve ever been on.” Prior to that she had won gold (overall), silver (bouldering) and bronze (duel) at the World Championship in Arco and had successfully completed several routes of the highest difficulty, 8c+ and 8b+. No problem for her: “Climbing has helped me learn to set goals and to see them through,” she says, showing her grit. Sasha is the best example of the new generation in sport climbing: young women who, unlike the previous generation, discovered their passion at a very early age with the aid of colorful holds in climbing gyms. “Today, climbers can develop their skills everywhere,” says Christoph Finkel, climbing coach of the German national team, “whereas in the past they were limited to the mountains.”
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Sasha DiGiulian, Cosi Fan Tutte (8c+), Spain I Photos: Reini Fichtinger Sasha DiGiulian, adidas Rockstars 2011 I Photo: Christian Pfanzelt
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A climber like the famous 50-year-old Lynn Hill learned on real rocks, and that was perfectly normal. Nowadays young athletes are emerging who “have grown up in the gym”. According to Finkel, this is the greatest change in the sport at the moment, and it stems from an entirely new philosophy. Whereas only a few years ago indoor training was a last resort, plastic in gyms was regarded with disdain and large-scale outdoor projects were almost always the aim, whether in the Alps, on Everest or in Yosemite Park in the USA, the focus today is on climbing per se, on colorful holds that lead to higher and higher grades of difficulty. Whenever he wants to get them outside, Finkel often hears his strong, young women say, “Too cold, too damp, too far.” They want to overcome creative problems in the gym, whether in bouldering or lead. The bolted routes have long since ceased to emulate the rock faces nature has to offer and now constitute a world of their own.
Because the risk of falls and injuries on wellsecured and safety-tested artificial walls is much lower, very young girls can have fun trying things out at their leisure and quickly stretch their limits. In the past, 14 was the usual age for a beginner. “Now some ten- or twelveyear-olds are already climbing at what was the highest level 20 years ago,” says Finkel. Success is a great motivator and the kids are developing a taste for competitive climbing at an ever earlier age: Sasha was nine when she went into her climbing gym one Saturday morning with her mother and was surprised to find a crowd of children and teenagers there. The “Youth Regional Championship” was being staged. Sasha hadn’t known anything about it, but was now determined to join in. After some deliberation she was allowed to take part in the category for the youngest children, those under eleven. The fact that she straight away came first, without any preparation, is something the young American is still proud of today.
From that point on she was a regular participant on the US competition circuit, first at local level, then regionally and nationally, ultimately progressing to international level. After graduating from high school in June 2011 she set aside a year for nothing but climbing. Her itinerary reads like that of an in-demand foreign minister. Take her three-month tour of Europe, for instance: Austria, Germany, France, Italy, Austria, a short trip to Utah (USA), Austria, Germany, Austria, Spain, the Netherlands, Spain, Austria, Belgium – and always on the agenda were competitions, world championships, hard routes, photo sessions. In October she spent three whole days at home in Washington before continuing on through the USA and her biggest success of the year on the sandstone of Red River Gorge. This was followed by her first trip to Asia, with China as her destination at the end of the year.
WOMEN’S SPECIAL
There, and likewise all over the world, the Frenchwoman Mélissa Le Nevé has climbed, in competitions, on hard routes (8b+) and on challenging boulders. In the summer of last year she reached new peaks in the exotic setting of South Africa. “Black Shadow” (8a+) in Rocklands was the name of her greatest challenge: “It was the first time that I had gone all the way on such a hard boulder and that’s really motivated me to stretch my limits even further,” says the 22-year-old with the delicate features and brown curls.
For now, she wants to concentrate solely on her sporting passion: “When I climb, I feel free,” she explains. She has been in the climbing business since 2006 and still has plenty to achieve. Coach Christoph Finkel knows that it’s a tough business: “You must be very idealistic and there are no fortunes to be earned.” Travelling round the world and the people one meets on the way, are the payoff for the tremendous discipline required and the sacrifices one has to make for the sport. “When you’re young, you enjoy it,” he says.
Mel, as she calls herself, must also be counted among the new, strong girls. As a child she dreamed of sport climbing, but in the “flat region” of Bordeaux it appeared impossible. At the age of 15 she at last found a small climbing gym, only 7m high, and soon after that every minute of her spare time was spent climbing. Today Mel has three coaches and trains four hours a day. She has put her plan of going into journalism on ice for the time being. “That’s something I can do later.”
But worldwide there are only a handful of women who can make a living from the sport. And they are not yet as well known as the men. Ever y recreational climbing enthusiast has at least heard of people like Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma or David Lama – but what about the ladies?
le nevé MÉLISSA
ROCKLANDS, SOUTH AFRICA –– 07:26 AM
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Mélissa Le Nevé + Katharina Saurwein, Rocklands, RZA I Photos: Tony Lourens Mélissa Le Nevé, adidas Rockstars 2011 I Photo: Christian Waldegger
THE 22-YEAR-OLD FRENCHWOMAN IS CURRENTLY MAKING A NAME FOR HERSELF AS A BOULDER SPECIALIST. A TRIP TO THE SOUTH AFRICAN “ROCKLANDS” MOTIVATED HER TO TACKLE HARDER AND HARDER PROBLEMS AND TO OVERCOME THEM.
WOMEN’S SPECIAL HARD MULTI-PITCH ROUTES ARE CURRENTLY ON THE AGENDA FOR THE 23-YEAR-OLD TYROLEAN. ALL SHE REALLY NEEDS FOR A PERFECT DAY IS A SHARPLY OVERHANGING, 400-METER-HIGH ROUTE LIKE “HOTEL SUPRAMONTE” ON SARDINIA.
zangerl BARBARA
The name Sasha DiGiulian is gradually becoming known among the climbing fraternity, and that of Barbara Zangerl means something to many people, in German-speaking countries at least, since in 2008 the Austrian became the first woman to climb the 8b-rated boulder “Pura Vida”. She was 19 at the time and was hailed as the shooting star of the climbing scene. “Then it was downgraded,” says the 23-year-old today with a trace of bitterness. “Pura Vida” in Switzerland’s Avers Valley is now rated only 8a+/b. Because a woman climbed it? Be that as it may, it is of no consequence to Barbara, because she already has 8c routes on her list. Eventually the downgraders will be unable to catch up because the ladies are advancing on all sides. Zangerl hails from Strengen, a small village on the Arlberg, and even though she grew up surrounded by mountains, her first ascent was in a climbing gym. The Tyrolean was 14 when her brother took her to the indoor bouldering centre in Flirsch.
She immediately became a regular visitor. It was the well-known top boulderer Bernd Zangerl, no relation, who finally got her into the open air. Her first experience of real rock was like “Christmas and Easter all at once” for her.
In the past she was a boulder specialist, but now she aims to do more alpine climbing because “it offers me the greatest adventure”. Her passion for multipitch routes was aroused during a trip to Sardinia. In 2009 she stood before the 400m-high overhanging wall for the first time: “Hotel Supramonte”, eleven pitches (8b). “Incredible,” she thought to herself, “to try something like that!” A dream. But in 2009 it was clearly nothing more than wishful thinking. The route stuck in her mind and in spring of the following year she was ready. “Very difficult, no chance of conserving energy,” she thought as she weighed up the route from below. “Maybe this is a bit too ambitious,” she thought. But after only four attempts she had conquered the “Hotel” together with her climbing partner: “That was a perfect day, an unbelievable feeling,” she enthuses.
Barbara Zangerl, Hotel Supramonte (8b), Sardinia I Photos: Hannes Mair
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SARDINIA, ITALY –– 05:11 PM
zangerl
Barbara Zangerl, Florida (8c), Austria I Photos: Reini Fichtinger
WOMEN’S SPECIAL
BARBARA
One of her current projects is called “Silbergeier” and is a very hard (8b+) multipitch route in the Rätikon that she was forced to abandon last year following a slipped disc. “I’m looking forward to the day I stand at the foot of the wall again.” Barbara is also drawn to the rocks and boulders of the world: she has a job in a hospital as a medical technical assistant and works part-time which leaves her enough time for climbing projects. Mélissa has similar plans, she wants to do more outdoor climbing whenever the competition season allows. It doesn’t matter if it’s boulders or routes, the main thing is that it should be rock. She is also becoming increasingly interested in multi-pitch routes because “the freedom you feel on them is so intense”.
That’s why she has moved from the flat country and has been living in Aix-en-Provence in southern France for some time, hard by several famous climbing rocks. Sasha, for her part, raves about the route “Cosi Fan Tutte” in Spain, not just because it’s another 8c+ for her collection, but also because the scenery is breathtaking. “It is located over a green-blue river and the rock is a beautiful light limestone. In order to get there you have to either hike over an hour up and down the valley, or take rafts and canyon down the river. I did both approaches and both were fun adventures.” It seems that things are simply done the other way around: nowadays it starts with plastic holds, the artificial walls give climbers strength. But no matter what grades of difficulty Sasha, Mélissa and Barbara tackle in future, no matter what competitions they win, their path leads quite clearly to real rocks, real mountains. And, in every sense, to new heights.
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Reinhold MESSNER Equality? Have women climbers caught up with the men? Haven’t both sexes conquered the hardest climb in the land? Haven’t they reached the summit? Men and women!
It is not the many expeditions undertaken by women’s libbers with a passion for rock climbing that have accelerated emancipation, since in most cases Sherpas were at least tolerated as assistants; emancipation is accomplished when it is no longer talked about. Although the paths their development took have been different, the When men and women – irrespective of their achievements, sexes today climb almost as equals. At least on the rock. Though style or skill – are judged and admired with a total disregard of women did not set out in search of targets until much later they have their sex. And unlike all other sports, where the competitors are now caught up. Today’s discussions are not about the first women to split into two categories, this now happens in rock climbing and, tackle such-and-such a route but on “on-sight”, “flash” and “free”. to a large extent, in classic alpinism too. Girls and women who are good climbers are now legion and a not For 200 years alpine clubs and mountaineers mocked, limited and inconsiderable number are leading the men. Phenomenal free hindered women on the mountain. Today it’s men who encourage, climbers, climbing couples, all-women rope teams on the world’s support and facilitate the “race to the top”. Thanks also to the hardest routes are now to be found in many countries, not just in elimination to a large extent of the fear of death on the mountain. the USA, France, Italy, Germany and Spain. Like the Spanish model Which is down to men again. On the other hand, the hordes that climbing couple Rikar Otegui and Josune Bereziartu, for example: swarm over the eight-thousanders and the mania for safety that alfree climbing on routes with little protection and mountaineering pine clubs and tourist operators are afflicted by have caused classic on classic rock faces is their passion. For instance, they went back extreme alpinism to be lost to view. Danger and suffering were once to the 400m-high technical route Zarathustra on the Cotatuero par for the course in the realm of high mountains where the forces in the Ordesa National Park in the Pyrenees, graded 8a/8a+, and of nature subject people to a tougher ordeal than civilization. The climbed it free. Rikar Otegui was able to climb the crux – a horizontal likes of us undertook the ascent to ultimately doubt ourselves. And roof – on-sight, wedging nuts between the old bolts for protection. doubts are an expression of our humility. The current status of Josune, one of the best girl climbers in the world, flashed the modern alpinism not only reflects the progress made in training crux. She had already climbed an 8b+ in 1996, following on from methods and equipment, it also Lynn Hill, Robyn Erbesfield, Susi Both sexes are “riders on the storm” whenever promotes tolerance and the Good and Mia Axon. they face the exposed conditions on a mountain sporting aspect. And someAchieving the next step up betimes our arrogance with regard came an obsession. But for her, with wind and weather, danger and difficulty. to nature. As if this attitude drew it was not about competing with its legitimacy from millions of imitators, the number of people the men – comparisons with others were utterly irrelevant, what following the trails is increasing all the time. All of them in search mattered to her was purely the question of what was possible of an experience that cannot be had there. Because a person canbeyond what she had accomplished so far. That’s how it’s been not make a new discovery if he or she does not make his or her in rock climbing for the last 100 years. It is not the question: own way: paths laid out by others never lead to the heart of our “Can women do something that men cannot do?” that counts, but existence. This means that women are not emancipated either until the question: “Can I, Josune Bereziartu, climb something I could not it is as natural for them as it is for the most imaginative climbers to climb yesterday?” go where the masses do not. And we mountaineers, whether male or female, are not equal until we all respect each other as peers. I am amazed on the one hand by the high degree of climbing skill, and on the other by the self-assurance with which girls and women None of the many outstanding woman climbers have shown so clearparticipate in the climbing scene. They are part of it – there are no two ly what emancipation is as Lynn Hill. When she succeeded in free ways about it. They express themselves by doing what they can do climbing the Nose Route, the world’s most famous climbing route, with the same commitment, training and obsessiveness as their male she wasted no time offering her colleagues an incentive: without colleagues. Dörte Pietron climbs up the west face of the Cerro Torre any trace of arrogance, condescension or self-importance she said, in Patagonia. Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer spend a few weeks climb“It goes, boys!”. Yes, it goes if we all respect each other as equals and ing in the Cirque of the Unclimbables in northwest Canada – one send any kind of conceitedness – towards members of the opposite of the world’s most beautiful climbing regions with Lotus Flower sex, towards people with different origins, a different skin colour, Tower, Mackenzie Mountains, Middle Huey Spire – where they achieve with different points of view – to the devil! first ascents and the hardest of repetitions. All free and as if it was the most natural thing in the world, so that the question of whether It’s time to put a stop to all this fuss about women: women’s rope women should be doing this tough “men’s sport” does not even arise. teams, ascents by women, the first woman on the face of the Eiger, Both sexes are “riders on the storm” whenever they face the exposed the first woman on all 14 eight-thousanders! conditions on a mountain with wind and weather, danger and difficulty.
WOMEN’S BEST OUTFIT
Barbara’s equipment Barbara plans to tackle challenging multi-pitch routes in future. That means long early-morning approaches and descents late in the evening that demand stamina. Unlike in a climbing garden the right outfit is key to the success of such tours. It must be light, for instance, and at the same time supremely functional, like the products in the Women terrex ™ collection.
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fast x #G46438 The terrex ™ fast x shoes are very light, technical hiking shoes for quick-paced outdoor challenges. They feature a highabrasion mesh upper, adaptive FORMOTION ™ cushioning and a TRAXION® outsole to grip trails during fast hikes.
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HIGHLINE
3 Battlements Highlines 3
TRE CIME DI LAVAREDO, SOUTH TYROL –– 02:11 PM
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Since the first ascent of the Cima Piccola (Small Battlement) in 1890 by Sepp Innerkofler, numerous alpinists and climbers have made history on the rock of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Three Battlements of Lavaredo). The list of climbers that have conquered the Tre Cime reads like the Who’s Who of alpine history and includes Cassin, Comici, Meindl, Brandler, Hasse and Huber. Reini Kleindl and Armin Holzer added a new chapter to the history book.
TEXT REINI KLEINDL PHOTO REINI FICHTINGER, HARALD WIESTHALER, ERWIN STEINER
HIGHLINE
_Armin It all started at the “Days of Distance” longline meeting at Stubenbergsee in summer 2010 when we started talking about highlining in the Dolomites. A couple of phone calls and another meeting later and we were both convinced and motivated to do a cool highline in the wild mountains of my home region. _Reini We met in the climbing gym in Sexten and discussed which highlines we could attempt together. The walls above us were adorned with historic photos depicting the Tre Cime and their first climbers with hemp rope and felt hats. Then we asked ourselves, what is the best, most spectacular and coolest project that we can imagine? _Armin To start with we reckoned our idea was pure utopia. The Tre Cime are known for their crumbling Dolomite rock and we were not sure whether we would even find places that would be suitable as anchor points. However, our concern was unfounded because we located a world-class highline spot and perfect rock quality first time. As we descended the Cima Piccola and looked back up we could hardly believe our eyes. Instead of a mountain it looked more like a towering fortress from a fantasy film – with a highline spot like in a dream, powerful, spanning the whole width between the lower summit and the main summit, hundreds of meters above the plateau.
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We grinned at each other; we had both had the same idea. What we were unsure about were the dimensions. We were worried that the spot was simply too large and the line too long. On the Cima Piccola we also found the perfect anchor point in the middle of the piles of loose rock. Pleased with our success, we immediately set up the anchor points. The highline on the Cima Piccola was a fantastic project in itself, but we could see that even more options were open. We went to have a look at the western battlement (Cima Ovest). Climbing together we found an excellent spot on the summit of the western battlement with superb rock for the anchor points.
3 Battlements, 3 Highlines ... that’s going to be our project. Reini_ We started on the Cima Grande. Together we lugged our highline equipment alpine-style up the standard climbing route. Exhausted, we reached the highline spot, a wonderful pinnacle west of the summit, directly above the famous classic north face route “Comici”, towering over the 500m-high north face. We spanned a 31m-long highline from this pinnacle. Setting it up was a challenge – but that was no surprise. Away from the popular climbing routes much of the rock is crumbling and loose pieces of rock are lying around all over the place. The slightest movement and they would fall off – a catastrophe for any climbers below us. By early afternoon we were ready to go for it – I crept onto the line in spite the wild gusts of wind around me. What a feeling! The 500 meter-deep chasm beckoned - the 2.5cm-wide highline seemed a lot narrower than usual. I managed to feel my way out over the emptiness. The oscillations caused by the wind made me nervous and I fell – catching the line. After a couple of attempts I started to get going and managed halfway. Suddenly I felt free and was able to cross the whole line. You could probably hear our celebratory shouts all over South Tyrol!
Armin was next onto the line. He also needed a few attempts to get a feeling for it, zone in and feel safe. And then, with surprising calm, he walked across to the other end. _Armin We were ecstatic, felt as free and floating as the jackdaws that watched our every move and kept us company when we stopped for a snack. It looked as though a heavy thunderstorm was on its way. A daunting tension hung in the air. When I held the karabiners I had just removed from the pinnacle up in the air, they began to sing. We had to get off this huge lightening conductor as quickly as we could! We called this highline “Vertigo”.
Vertigo The western battlement was next. It was the warmest and most beautiful day of the summer. Destiny was on our side. The highline was near the summit and was 37m long – facing east towards the Cima Grande. Again, we had to traverse unpleasant, crumbling terrain to set up this line. We had to be especially careful on the pinnacle opposite the summit cross because the classic “Demuth Edge” route passes directly underneath. As soon as we had finished setting up I made my first attempt – and managed to crack it straightaway. Coming back the other way also worked. We went crazy in celebration! Reini then attached the leash and managed both directions on the first attempt. The project was behind us, the pressure was off, and we started to play around, do some tricks and really enjoy being on this highline, which we named “Perle des Westens” (“Pearl of the West”).
Perle des Westens Reini _ So there was just one more highline to do, the coolest of them all... The best spot we have ever set eyes on – no less than 53m long. We were motivated and nervous at the same time. What is it going to feel like up there, suspended in empty space? Is the wind going to let us attempt a crossing, or rip our highline away while we are trying to set it up? Setting everything up was as tiring as usual, but there was no wind this time. Lug the material up again, cross over crumbling terrain, make sure no stones fall down, and then span the line with the ratchet. As soon as we were finished spanning the line the sun disappeared behind the Cima Grande. The big moment had arrived. I felt a bit uneasy as I stepped onto the line for the first time. Was I ready for this, come what may? Standing up went better than expected, but then I became entwined in the leash and fell. Go back and try again. Suddenly something inside me switched to overdrive. I could feel how the line supported me and I found my calm within the situation. I moved step by step over the gaping chasm and could see Armin on the other side getting closer and closer. I pushed my worries aside and took the last step to complete the first crossing of this awesome highline.
HIGHLINE
_Armin We were both out of our trees with elation and jumped around hugging each other on the small ledge below the “Zsygmondi Chimney”. What a moment! I was totally motivated by the success of my highline partner and slid across to the middle of the line, from where I managed to cross right over to the other edge. To get an even better feel for the line I executed a couple of tricks in the middle before ending this challenging day with the final step off the line onto the cool rock. After a short break Reini suddenly decided to cross the line again, this time from the other end. We had conquered the fortress from our fantasy film. We were delighted and proud to have completed this dream project. _Reini During this tremendous project we crossed the Tre Cime di Lavaredo a total of eight times. Both of us learned a great deal from the other; me about alpine climbing in the Dolomites, and Armin about my techniques for setting up and tensioning highlines. We both profited from the experience and were a perfect team.
Elysium PS: Just a bit of advice: if you want to repeat these lines, you not only
We named the last line “Elysium” from the paradise of the ancient Romans. The project had been completed – more than just crossing a highline on each of the battlements: we did the coolest and the most logical. In a certain way we felt an obligation to these mountains and the climbing tradition connected with them: it wasn’t enough to do any old highlines – it had to be lines that live up to the reputation of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo. We respect the brilliant mountaineers and climbers who have left their mark here, proving their pioneering spirit and living their dream. We are proud that we have brought our skills to these legendary summits and were able to add another chapter to their long history. Berg Heil! As climbers say around here...
have to be skilled in all the technical aspects of highlining – you also need to be an experienced mountain climber. If you are not capable of climbing safely and responsibly in crumbling terrain, you not only put yourself at risk but others even more so.
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Active FORMOTION™ fit, 4-way stretch fabric for freedom of movement, NANO-TEX technology to fight odour and resist stains
#X19622
terrex™ SWIFT Short Sleeve Tee #X19623 FORMOTION™ fit, Cocona fabric for 50+SPF UV protection and moisture management
MEN
FOOTWEAR
#V23479
#G63194
#G46422
terrex™ fast r Mid GTX® #G46424
terrex™ fast r #G46423
Very lightweight mid-cut shoes featuring TRAXION® outsole with CONTINENTAL® rubber compound for optimal grip in wet and dry, new 3D FORMOTION™ unit for great stability on rough terrain
Very lightweight shoes featuring TRAXION® outsole with CONTINENTAL® rubber compound for optimal grip in wet and dry, new 3D FORMOTION™ unit for great stability on rough terrain
#G46434
terrex™ fast x Mid GTX® #G46435 Light mid-cut hiking shoes with breathable GORE-TEX® membrane for 100% weather protection, TRAXION® outsole, adaptive FORMOTION™ cushioning
#V23478
#G63193
#G63195
#G46431
#G46429
#G45689
terrex™ fast x GTX® #G46430
terrex™ fast x #G46428
terrex™ SOLO #G45688
Light, technical hiker with breathable GORE-TEX® membrane for 100% weather protection, TRAXION® outsole to grip trails during fast hikes, adaptive FORMOTION™ cushioning
Light, technical hiking shoes featuring TRAXION® outsole to grip trails during fast hikes, adaptive FORMOTION™ cushioning, high-abrasion mesh upper
High-performance shoes featuring an outsole design with different zones for hiking and climbing, shock-absorbing adiPRENE® for cushion in each step
#G45694
#V22938
#G46594
terrex™ Hike GTX® #G46748
terrex™ SWIFT X #V22937
terrex™ SWIFT SOLO #G45693
Stable, all-terrain hiking shoe featuring breathable GORE-TEX® for comfortable, secure footing and all-weather protection, adiPRENE®+ forefoot cushioning, TORSION® system support
Lightweight hiker with shock-absorbing adiPRENE® for extra cushion, grippy TRAXION® outsole for a stable stride
Lightweight shoes with a breathable yet durable mesh upper, adiPRENE® cushioning in the heel, approach-specific outsole design with climbing-specific toe area
90 I91
WOMEN
adidas.com/outdoor
#G46437
#G46433
#G46439
terrex™ fast x Mid GTX® #G46436
terrex™ fast x Mid GTX® #G46436
terrex™ fast x #G46438
Light mid-cut hiking shoes with breathable GORE-TEX® membrane for 100% weather protection, TRAXION® outsole, adaptive FORMOTION™ cushioning
Light mid-cut hiking shoes with breathable GORE-TEX® membrane for 100% weather protection, TRAXION® outsole, adaptive FORMOTION™ cushioning
Light, technical hiking shoes featuring TRAXION® outsole to grip trails during fast hikes, adaptive FORMOTION™ cushioning, high-abrasion mesh upper
#V22932
terrex™ SOLO #G46598
terrex™ SWIFT X #V22939
AX 1 Mid GTX® #V22931
High-performance shoes featuring an outsole design with different zones for hiking and climbing, shock-absorbing adiPRENE® for cushion in each step
Lightweight hiker with shock-absorbing adiPRENE® for extra cushion, grippy TRAXION® outsole for a stable stride
Lightweight mid-cut boot with breathable GORE-TEX® membrane to keep feet dry, cushioning midsole, moulded sockliner for optimal fit and comfort
#V21547
AX 1 #V21548 Mountain sports shoes featuring a breathable air mesh upper and textile lining for excellent ventilation and comfort, lightweight EVA midsole for long-term cushioning, versatile outsole design for good grip on all surfaces
#V23199
terrex™ SWIFT SOLO #V23200 Lightweight shoes with a breathable yet durable mesh upper, adiPRENE® cushioning in the heel, approach-specific outsole design with climbing-specific toe area
adidas.com/outdoor
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