TRAVEL
Uncover the Secrets of Italy’s Most Breathtaking Island
SICILY
| BY ADAM JACOT DE BOINOD
“Anyone who has once known this land can never be quite free from the nostalgia of it,” said the writer DH Lawrence of Sicily. She is an island of historic cities and volcanic coastlines. Born out of turmoil, she was occupied for millennia by the Greeks and Romans, the Arabs and the French, all of whom left their mark on the island. It’s truly the archetypal Mediterranean destination. The locals are animated: garrulous and gesticulative. To get a historical and literary flavor, I strongly recommend ‘The Leopard ‘by Tomasi di Lampedusa, a renowned portrait of Sicily in her 19th-century overthrow. Perfectly placed in the heart of the island’s capital Palermo, and amongst all the major sites is Palazzo Arone di Valentino www.palazzovalentino.com/en/. What a delightful place to stay. It’s surrounded by the theatricality of the monumental Praetorian Fountain, the cathedral, and the Royal (or Norman) Palace, all a minute or two away by foot. With its lovely boutique feel, the hotel’s six rooms and two apartments start from $250 a night. Built in 1555, it’s an aristocratic residence still in use by the family who lives above. It bills itself as ‘a treasure trove of beauty in the center of Palermo’ for one ‘sleeping surrounded by history.’ The hotel is a highly successful blend of the old, with its wooden ceilings and ceramic floors, and the new, with its stone staircase of an entrance. The public rooms were adorned with wooden coffered ceilings decorated with landscapes and flowers. The ‘piano nobile’ (main floor) is a creative treat with colorful ceramic tiles on the floor, Chinese porcelain, and Japanese prints. There are also old artifacts and family memorabilia beneath beautiful frescoes of biblical scenes. I had a spacious suite with rich red, green, and gold colors and a lovely balcony to watch the street life. I particularly recommend the Lady Marianna suite, so special in its glorious blue. I felt part of the family as I sat around a small, intimate breakfast table and buffet display on offer for my ‘bed and breakfast’ experience. 130 | UPSCALE LIVING MAGAZINE | AUG/SEPT 2023
Palazzo Valentino
With influences from Italy, Arabia, Africa, and Spain, Sicilian cuisine is a fabulous melting pot of flavor. All is magnificently achieved, as throughout Italy, with the simplest of ingredients. Food on the island is a very important enjoyment. Indeed “We only eat once a day” they say, before adding, “From breakfast right through to dinner.” I loved ‘arancini,’ a ball of creamy risotto rice that’s breaded and deep-fried, and the crisp Monreale almond biscuits.
