Chillfactor 2024 by Adventure Entertainment

CELEBRATING SKI CULTURE

25 25TH ANNIVERSARY ISSUE

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WINTER FILM TOUR 2024 DELIGHT IN THE DETOUR

Mt Buller ............ 06.07 Mt Hotham ........ 09.07 Falls Creek......... 11.07 Jindabyne.......... 16.07

Thredbo ............ 19.07 Canberra ........... 20.07 Melbourne ........ 24.07 Bright ................. 26.07

Chess Smee, Alex Parsons, Mimi Gee, and Kate Alice Tennison Woods Knoll, Koscizsko National Park 7OV[V! ;VT 9VɈL` From “MAVEN”, screening at the Arc’teryx Winter Film Tour 5

Photo Credit: Jamie Parker Featuring: Bridger Theissen

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Contents 34

OLD BOLD SKIER There are old skiers and bold skiers but no old bold skiers

ZANNA FARRELL Aussie Rookie Shaking up Freeride Tour

MOMENTS FROM A WINTER A few diamonds from the rough that was the 2023 season

FINN BILOUS The Kiwi skier setting the freeride world on fire

THE FORCE IS STRONG IN THE YOUTH The Young Guns in Australian Freeskiing

ANATOMY OF A TURN The Essence of Skiing

THE LAST UNDISCOVERED SKI TOWN IN NORTH AMERICA Juneau, Alaska

THE MAGIC OF HOKKAIDO A place like no other

106

LES TROIS VALLÉES The World’s Biggest Ski Area

116

CHAMONIX France’s Freeride Mecca

124

RACHA A backcountry trip in Georgia’s Caucasus Mountains

132

ROAD TRIPPIN’ FROM THE HOLE TO THE SKY Jackson Hole to Big Sky

146

152

LEGENDARY COLORADO Vail, Beaver Creek Arapahoe CHILLFACTOR PICKS Mountain essentials

170

UNDERGROUND Martin Longhitano, the best skier you haven’t heard of

176

FLYING HIGH Behind the Scenes of a Heliski operation

On the cover: It’s always been said that heli skiing in Alaska is the pinnacle of skiing. Ski guide Pat McCormick showing us why on “Dirty Shame”. Location: Triple Point Expeditions, Palmer, Alaska. Photo Tony Harrington This page: Wanaka skier Ben Richards had a break out year on the Freeride World Tour, winning the Fieberbruun event, the first win of his career, finishing third on the world rankings and was named rookie of the year. Photo: Christoph Johann

STAFF AND CONTRIBUTORS Editor Reggae Elliss – reggae@chillfactor.com Photo Editor Tony Harrington – harro@chillfactor.com Designer Marine Raynard – marine@adventureentertainment.com Associate Editor Watkin McLennan Senior Writer/proof reader/keeper of sanity Rhylla Morgan Editorial Contributors Coen Bennie-Faull, Kate Allman, Drew Jolowicz, Tony Harrington, Chad Clark, Paddy Graham Contributing photographers Mark Clinton, Chris Hocking, Dylan Robinson, Chad Clark, Christian Pondella, Pally Learmond, Boen Ferguson, Adam Kroenart, Christoph Johann, Jack Arthur, Toby Royce, Alex Jeynes Illustrations Nanda Ormond Advertising Toby Ryston-Pratt – toby@adventureentertainment.com Publisher Toby Ryston-Pratt, Founder and CEO, Adventure Entertainment, ABN 79 612 294 569

FOREWORD When we published the first issue of Chillfactor in May 2000 it had one coverline: “Skiing’s Resurrection”. The introduction to the mag was a double page spread of Andrea Binning dropping into a huge, steep peak in Alaska, a couple of days after she’d won the World Extreme title in Valdez. Accompanying the image I wrote, “… an Aussie girl who started skiing in Mount Baw Baw is now one of the best freeskiers in the world. The whole freeskiing, big mountain, new school movement has reignited skiing and Andrea’s win is part of the new push.” “Skiing is in the midst of a big comeback,

the resurrection of an incredible sport. We figured Australian skiing needed a magazine which not only reflects this resurrection but is part of it.” 25 years ago, skiing’s resurrection was a reflection of what was happening at the time and freeskiing best described what contemporary skiing and skiers were all about - we embraced all of it. Years later Watkin McLennan said it perfectly in our 2020 issue: “Freeskiing is the culture, the life of a skier. The freeskier has no particular discipline. The freeskier skis everything, everywhere. The only rules are dictated by the mountain.”

We’ve always strived to reflect these values in the magazine and it has been our core ethos for 25 years. We’re here to share stories about skiers and skiing, Australian skiing in particular, and to celebrate all that we love about ski culture. If we have our way we’ll do it for at least another 25 years. (Even if our knees hurt.) As always, Live, Love Australian skiing and see you on the hill. - Reggae Above: Chillfactor, Issue 1, Winter 2000. The late, great Shane McConkey somewhere in Alaska. Photo: Tony Harrington

We acknowledge the Traditional Custodians of the lands on which we live, work, ski & adventure. We pay respects to elders, past, present, and emerging. Sovereignty was never ceded. 14

GALLERY

Bernie Rosow Location: Mammoth Mountain, California. Photo: Christian Pondella

GALLERY Noah Wallace Location: Engelberg, Switzerland. Photo: Christoph Johann

GALLERY

Dillon Hennesy Location: Chamonix, France Photo: Tony Harrington

GALLERY

Hannes Grimus, Location: Alaska Powder Descents, Juneau Alaska Photo: Tony Harrington

GALLERY

Jeremy Provost Location: Meribel, Les Trois Vallee, France Photo: Tony Harrington

THE SWISS SKI BOOT

Every Moment, On Any Mountain. 30

LEARN MORE HERE

The Unabridged Alpine Responsibility Code WORDS BY WATKIN MCLENNAN, IMAGES BY EVERYONE VIA MIDJOURNEY

How to be a responsible legend in the mountains by helping people, protecting the snow and not dying.

Slip, slop, slap on the slopes

Check your boots and bindings before you drop

Just because it is winter doesn’t mean the sun isn’t beaming down its killer rays. Don’t forget to slop up your nose and nostrils. The sun is very happy to bounce right up in there if you let it.

These are the key pieces of kit that give you the edge over the snow. Check your boots and bindings. Flip out of walkmode and adjust your buckles as required. There is only one thing worse than dropping a ski mid run and that is skiing the run of your life in walkmode.

Ask for help

Snow respect

Unsure about what the snow will be like at the bottom of a run? Wandering if skiing that south facing slope is a good idea when the snow is feeling a bit crunchy? On top of a cliff wishing you had a reconnaissance drone? Strike up a conversation on the chair or skin track. Learn from and listen to the skiers around you. And don’t be afraid to take unsolicited advice from above.

Without snow we are just bushwalking in really expensive clothes. Let’s look after our snow because we all know in Australia it is all too brief. Try to keep dirt off the snow. Pocket those chocolate wrappers so they don’t end up in a bowerbird’s nest. And if urinating in the snow do it on a rock or tree because yellow snow is forever and you never know who might find it. 31

Communicate your plans before, not after your big day out Nobody likes a missing friend. Worse is when you are missing and your friends don’t even know. Worse still is when your friend brags about their big day on the slopes that they didn’t invite you to.

No backpacks on backs on chairlifts Remove your backpack before hopping on a lift and place it on your lap. It is a great excuse to get out those treats and share them around. And if you don’t you may end up as the but of a joke in the next Warren Miller movie.

Don’t be a dickhead

Keep your eyes open

Leave your flippant behaviour in the city. Let’s all work together to make the mountains collegial. The best place to start is in the lift line. Put your phone away, alternate, fill up the chairs and give people enough space even if they are a snowboarder.

The mountain is constantly giving us clues on where to ski, how to be safe and what to expect. Be a weather nerd, know the forecast, watch the clouds, study the snow and notice any changes.

Don’t be a loner

Make time to Saunter

Buddy up, skiing is way more fun with friends and less dangerous.

The mountains are a beautiful place, what’s the rush?

Why are we running an old ad? Because it’s a banger, and we’re feeling nostalgic. This year we’re celebrating 100 fun-filled years of skiing on Mt Buller. Thank you Chillfactor for fuelling the stoke since 1999 — 25 years of memories. Climb aboard for a Season of Celebration!

YEARS OF SKIING 1924 – 2024

The Old Bold Skier THERE ARE OLD SKIERS AND BOLD SKIERS BUT NO OLD BOLD SKIERS.

RAIN DANCE Gliding through the drizzle, raindrops trace paths down my face. I take a quenching sip. As the rain intensifies, the snowpack turns translucent. A patchwork of puddles forms. Rippling in the wind, I target each one like a pillow on a powder day. A splash, a skid, a slash, no one in my way. Slush is powder’s sloppy cousin, forgiving my old knees. With a high five to a sluggish lifty, I ski straight onto the chair. My goggles fog, my gloves drip, water runs down the back of my leg. If I keep my head down and hood on, my neck will stay dry. At the top of the chair the wind is strong, whipping through the snow gums. Leaf confetti adds contrast to the snow. I push off the chair and point my skis down the fall line. The snow is consistent, creamy and forgiving. With every turn and air, I wonder where everyone is. I wonder if they know what they are missing. I make the most of the frail snow pack, cherishing every turn. If the rain keeps falling, they may be my last of the season. Time for another lap.

Chemistry

Great

Ambitious objectives require the strongest bonds. Nearly a decade ago, Patagonia and the GORE-TEX brand started toward an impossible goal: To remove perfluorinated chemicals from the waterproof fabrics in our outerwear without compromising performance. Well, we did it—and set an entirely new standard for technical shells.

Niseko’s Center Four’s Swan Song WORDS & IMAGES BY CHAD CLARK/SEA AND SUMMIT MEDIA

On 31 March 2024 Japan’s first and longest-running high-speed quad chairlift was officially retired after an illustrious 38 years of operation. The Center Four whisked millions of skiers to some of the steepest and deepest powderfilled runs at Tokyu Grand Hirafu Resort, part of Niseko United which, of course, is renowned for some of the most consistent snowfall in the world. The Center Four, also known as the Ace Quad Lift #2, was the heartbeat of Niseko and it carried an astonishing 25 million passengers in its lifetime. Spanning 1.72 kilometres over 497 metres of elevation at four metre per second, its 111 chairs carried 780,000 passengers in the 2022-23 season alone. For many, like myself, the Center Four provided life-altering experiences. I’ll never forget my maiden voyage aboard the iconic lift. I could barely contain my excitement as I ascended, staring down 36

at the blank canvas below where 30 centimeters of fresh snow awaited. I had read about Niseko in magazines, seen it in videos, and I had finally made the pilgrimage across the Pacific to sample my first taste of Hokkaido’s famous powder. It was deep, dry, effortless… It was magic. Little did I know at the time, that descent would ignite a passion that would reshape the course of my life and career entirely, as I was inspired to combine my love of skiing and photography and make the move to Niseko. The Center Four was unique in that it was the first high-speed quad in Japan. Having no hood nor footrest, riders were exposed to the elements and constant, unobstructed views of the 38º slope of the Super Course and the adjacent Super Ridge, for the entirety of their journey to the top of Ace Hill. The lift was also the epicentre of night skiing in Japan, perhaps the most iconic night skiing on

the planet. If you’ve ever had a powderfueled “nighter” in Hirafu, it was likely one of the most memorable experiences on snow that you’ve ever known. We are grateful to the Center Four for the memories forged and the adventures shared with friends and visitors alike. The spirit of the Center Four will live on, aboard the all new 10-seater gondola that will take its place. The new gondola will begin operations in the 2024-25 season and will increase the carriage capacity from 1,800 riders per hour to 2,8000. As the sun sets on this chapter of Niseko's storied history, we bid farewell to an old friend. But amidst the bittersweet farewells, we eagerly anticipate the adventures that lie ahead in the powder kingdom. Thank you Center Four.

ALL MOUNTAIN. ALL FREEDOM. EXPERIENCE NEW HEIGHTS OF VERSATILITY.

THE NEW M7 MANTRA & SECRET 96

Whether you‘re ripping groomers or exploring your own line off-piste, the M7 MANTRA and the SECRET 96 are the ideal companions. With their legendary reputation, these skis combine decades of evolution with the latest innovations. They merge precision on the slopes with unparalleled agility off-piste. With responsive control and exceptional float, they conquer any terrain. Built robustly for adventures and refined for smooth handling experience the new standard for all-mountain freeride skiing. VOLKL .COM

Jakara Anthony’s Record-Breaking Season WORDS & IMAGES BY CHRIS HOCKING

After a dominant 2022 season, 25-yearold Jakara Anthony rewrote the record books in Freestyle Moguls by claiming an unprecedented fourteen World Cup gold medals. With her signature high-difficulty aerial package, powerful and precise turns, and steely mindset, the reigning Olympic champion from Barwon Heads, Victoria became the most decorated Australian Freestyle Mogul skier in history. Reflecting on her masterful achievements, Anthony said, “This season has been absolutely wild. It’s hard to put into words how proud I am of what my team and I have achieved. The skiing and jumping I’ve been able to do is incredible.” When the season began, the record for most mogul wins in a season was eleven, set by American Moguls legend Hannah Kearney in the 2011-12 season. By season’s end Anthony had won seven singles events and seven dual moguls events. As the records fell, so did the enormity of the achievement. “We were joking — well, my coach Pete [McNeil] was — that we’ve still got to come out here again and break another record.” 38

The barnstorming performance could arguably be the most dominant of any Australian athlete summer or winter in the last calendar year, with Anthony setting the tone early in December in Finland and finishing four months later in Italy. The results are mind-blowing! World Cup 2023-24 results •

Ruka, Finland: Moguls 1st (84.18)

•

Idre Fjall, Sweden: Moguls 1st (79.74), Dual Moguls 3rd (defeated by Jaelin Kauf in the semi-final)

•

Alpe d’Huez, France: Moguls 1st (79.98), Dual Moguls 1st (defeated Olivia Giaccio in the final)

•

Bakuriani, Georgia: Moguls 1st (79.08), Dual Moguls 1st (defeating Maria Schwinghammer in final)

•

Val St. Come, Quebec Canada: Moguls 1st (82.01), Dual Moguls 1st (defeating Jaelin Kauf in the final)

•

Waterville, USA: Moguls 1st (81.22), Dual Moguls 1st (defeating Jaelin Kauf in the final)

•

Deer Valley, USA: Moguls 13th (44.73), Dual Moguls 1st (defeating Jaelin Kauf

in the final) •

Almaty, Kazakhstan: Moguls 1st (82.74), Dual Moguls 1st (defeating Jaelin Kauf in the final)

•

Chiesa in Valmalenco: Dual Moguls 1st (defeating Jaelin Kauf in the final)

•

Crystal Globe Triple Champion Singles, Duals & Overall.

What’s next for the Aussie? It seems progression and never-ending mastery in her sport are the catalyst and core motivation for the star skier: “A World Championship gold is the only major medal I don’t have yet. With the 2026 Milano-Cortina Olympics coming up, which will be the first to feature dual moguls, my team and I will keep improving every year and pushing ourselves.” We are so proud of what you’ve achieved this season Jakara. All eyes now focus on Toppa’s Dream at Perisher later this season for the Australian Mogul Championships then World Cup and World Championship season from December to March. The sky is the limit for this Australian Skiing Champion!

DON‘T FOLLOW THE TRACKS. BLAZE YOUR TRAILS.

THE NEW BLAZE 94

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Zanna Farrell AUSSIE ROOKIE SHAKING UP THE FREERIDE TOUR WORDS BY REGGAE ELLISS

Zanna Farrell is a 24-year-old freeskier from Sydney, who finished third on the 2024 Freeride World Tour qualifying rankings, winning two events, along the way. However, prior to entering an event in Japan in Feb 2023, Zanna, a racer in her teenage years, had never competed in a freeride event. She won that comp in Japan which encouraged her to enter the two North Face Frontier events in the Remarkables, NZ last winter, where she podiumed in both and her freeride career was underway… Zanna, you burst onto the scene out of nowhere and got a second and a third in the Frontier events in New Zealand last year. What had you been doing before those events? Just skiing with friends, really. Freeride happened accidentally in a way. I grew up skiing in Thredbo and raced when I was younger. I was on the national team for maybe three or four years, but I stopped when I was around 16, during my first or second year in FIS. I took a big break from skiing, went to university, worked a bit and took a couple of years off. How did you end up competing on the 42

Freeride Qualifier tour? I ended up going on a ski trip with some friends last year to Japan and Canada. At the end of it, I did a comp just for fun in Lotte Arai in Japan. It was a three-star event at the very end of the season and there weren’t many people, so I got in and put down a really good result. And then, with only one result, I was able to do the two-star in New Zealand off that. I came second there, so they gave me a wild card for the four-star! That was my trajectory into freeride, and that gave me the opportunity to come here to Europe. But it was honestly a total accident, and I was just skiing with friends on holiday. That’s extraordinary. As an ex-racer you’ve obviously got the technical skills. So, tell me about the second event in New Zealand. The Remarks has some varied, steep and challenging terrain, and of course it’s NZ, so it’s not necessarily great quality snow. How do you deal with that? I put no pressure on myself because I’d never really done it before, and I didn’t have expectations on my performance. It really took the pressure off relative to what I’d experienced in racing. Obviously, the start gate experience is similar, and I’m used to

skiing that kind of variable snow. I just made a plan in the morning and tried to stick to it. But, yeah, there wasn’t a whole lot that went into it. New Zealand was my first big hurdle to overcome mentally, in terms of dropping in, and changing quite a lot in the way that I ski to fit into the freeride mode. Really dialing back the speed, focusing on navigation, and speed control is a big one. Not just to handle the terrain, but also to find your landmarks. Honestly, the New Zealand faces were nowhere near as hard to navigate as the ones I’ve skied here in Europe this season, on that course you could pretty much see most of it from the top. So, you’ve done the New Zealand events and podiumed in both and gathered quite a few points on the rankings. You say “Wow, okay” Then you decide to head to Europe… But let’s take a step back, what were you doing at the time – work? university? I’m working, I’m in my last year of a Master’s in Law. I studied politics, philosophy, and economics as an undergrad and I’m working at the Attorney General’s office in international investment law. I didn’t ski at all

for about two or three years after I stopped racing, and it was challenging. I had multiple surgeries, and just the classic racer story of ACL and being a bit burnt out. So, really, I took two or three years off skiing before I took this long ski trip with my friends. And I just really started enjoying myself again. It’s a completely separate life. Totally. So, you headed to Europe to compete but again you were carrying a knee injury at the start of this season? Yeah, so it was MCL and also possible ACL. I had mixed advice from different surgeons saying I needed a reconstruction, saying maybe I could get away without it, but I ruptured the MCL for sure as well. So that put a hole in the plans. Because after New Zealand I decided, “Okay, I’m going to go to Europe and I’m going to do the four-star events and see how it goes. I was training in Jindabyne on the airbag around the end of November. I got injured on my second jump, which was super unlucky. I ruptured my MCL and then pretty much wasn’t able to ski until the end of January. So, it was really stressful, because in missing the four-star events it’s really difficult to get enough points to make the challenger events because they only run five of them. One of them is in Japan and it only leaves two. So essentially the first half of the season was botched, and I just did heaps of rehab. I was still pretty motivated; when you’re doing rehab in the middle of a season when you’d really like to be skiing, it’s quite motivating. Then I was ready, so I came over here to Verbier and did all my competitions. I think I did eight comps in three weeks or something crazy like that. Really, I did so many comps, and probably way more than recommended. What, so you did all the smaller events to try and chase the points? Yeah, I couldn’t do the four-stars. So, I did three-stars and two-tars, and basically just tried to win each event because, otherwise, you can’t get enough points. Yeah. So that builds up points to get a start in the four stars. And then you won the Nendaz event in Switzerland. So, you’re back competing, talk us through your results… I did a comp in Tignes, that was a bit early to come back and I was pretty injured, so that didn’t go so well. The next two were both in Verbier and Bruson, and I crashed both of them, so I’m not looking so good. We’re in mid-February now. Then, I actually had some friends who were going to Kazakhstan for some comps, so I thought, “Okay, cool, let’s go.” I did a two-star and a three-star there and won both of them. Then I came back to Nendaz. I did the three-star. I came second, I think. And then did the four-star and I won. Prior to the four-start I was completely below the cut, so I think I had to come first, second, or third to even make the cut for the challenger events. So, it’s been quite a lot of pressure this season, a lot more than I really wanted it to be. It was just a case of try and

Left: Zanna, all smiles after a good result Above: A freeski pow day in Austria. Photos: Hugo Schleicher 43

ZANNA FARREL

Zanna, skiing to the criteria -Freeride comps are about turns and cliffs. Photos: Gassner/FWT

squeeze everything into February and I pulled it off, and just slid in at the end. Yeah, right. And then, tell us about the challenger events, so where did you end up? Yeah, I ended up third. The challengers were okay. I had the first one in Italy. I crashed the first two, actually. First one was honestly probably the best run of my life until the bottom. So that one, even though technically I crashed, I still count that as a win because I definitely dropped the biggest cliff I have all season and was feeling really good. On the second one, I crashed. The third one in France, I didn’t do so well. I got a bit lost. At that stage I think my confidence was a bit low, to be honest, from the previous two. My head game wasn’t quite there. And then the last one, in Austria, I came third. I finally put down a run, landed a run, and was super happy about it. I think I found a good medium between pushing a little bit harder and just dialing it back a little bit. I just wanted to put down a run - so that was my challenger journey; not so good. When you think about it, you’ve really had only a year’s experience in freeride competition. It’s pretty amazing for someone coming in without any experience in junior freeride events. So, you start at the Lotte Arai in February ‘23 and now, here you are, knocking on the door of the Freeride World Tour 14 months later. That’s pretty amazing. Kind of. It’s been a really, really steep learning curve though. I’ve learned so much about my skiing, myself, everything. Yeah. Well, you mentioned before the airbag and hurting yourself. Obviously, in freeride now, there’s a lot of progression in it, 360s and back flips. That’s something you wouldn’t have done as a kid, I suppose, much with your race training. Is that the plan to come back down here to Jindy and do some more training, hopefully uninjured this time? I think so. I really enjoy the freestyle part of 44

skiing. And it’s something I’ve been wanting to progress for a while, and something I’ve done throughout my life in a very ad hoc way, and just sending it on big days without a lot of direction. So that’s something I’m keen to develop in a safe and structured way. And, for sure, the level of competition with women is going through the roof right now. I’m super, super open to that side of the sport and it’s something I’ve been developing for a while. Just it’s been a bit difficult to put into comps this year with my injury. The advice was not to rotate and not to put any more strain on the ligaments. So that’s been a little bit frustrating for me, personally, just have not been able to progress that at all this season. I do feel like I have lots of time. I think I’m really at the beginning, I’m still learning how to navigate faces and everything. Okay, so you’re coming back to Australia soon, back to work in Canberra. What’s the plan? Are you going to New Zealand again for the comps in August and September? Hopefully. It depends mostly on finances and scheduling, stuff like that. I’m looking to get a bit more support this year and, hopefully, start some longer -term relationships with companies that are really care about freeride. I actually am going to work and I’m going to be associated with Thredbo this year as an ambassador and do a bit of stuff with them. So yes, I hope to go to New Zealand. I’m hoping to compete, but it just depends on a few logistics that I’ll need to work out to make it happen. Yeah. And what about the knee? Is that an issue now?

for five or six years which makes it easier to go to the snow too. I’m planning to play footy there and am signed on to play at a high level, more semi-professionally, when I get home. I love footy, it keeps you really strong. Because I think freeride is, in a way, a contact sport, in terms of the impact on your body. I know it’s no one tackling you, per se, but it’s funny how it’s similar on your body as footy. So, it’s good training and it’s nice to play a team sport. Well, you’re not the standard 24-year-old corporate lawyer. So, if you get back to Europe next season, you want to compete, make the cut for the challengers again. Long-term – the Freeride World Tour, is that the goal? I’m thinking about it now. But to be honest, at the beginning of the year it never even seemed a possibility. Now I’m thinking about it as a goal, and it doesn’t seem so impossible, having done a season here and getting a bit of experience, and understanding what it means to be successful in the comp setting. It’s so different to freeskiing with your friends and skiing in a comp. I’m starting to understand the way the judging works, And I’m really getting a sense of the best way to approach the comps, and for me to adjust my skiing. For example, I went way too fast in a few events; I had this ticking time bomb in my head where I’m thinking, “I have to get down,” and that’s just not realistic or useful. So just these little things are all elements I am learning.

Footy as well?

I definitely think the World Tour is a possibility, but I want to find a bit of support. And I think the most important thing for me is to find a team of other riders. I think that’s what we’re lacking in Australia is a community of freeriders and people to train with to push yourself.

Yeah, so normally, at home, I’m playing footy a lot. I went to ANU so I’ve been in Canberra

* You can listen to the full interview with Zanna in an upcoming Chillfactor podcast.

Not really and hopefully I can avoid surgery. I’ve had trouble with my ACL for a long time and I play a lot of AFL. I play for Ainslie in Canberra.

DON‘T FOLLOW THE TRACKS. BLAZE YOUR TRAILS.

THE NEW BLAZE 104

The Blaze 104 is a light, agile powder ski that is constructed with maneuverability in mind. The thin Titanal Binding Platform underfoot harnesses power with little effort, creating an incredibly enjoyable and dynamic turning experience. In narrow terrain and/or rough conditions their reaction time is impressive, especially for a powderwidth ski. The 4 radius drive sidecut technology adapts to most every riding style. In addition to ripping around the resort, the Blaze 104 skis also transition into freeride touring companions due to their lightweight yet powerful nature. They effortlessly ride through powder, crud, and wind buffed snow, delivering a playful burst of power along the way. VOLKL.COM

MOMENTS FROM A WINTER When people reflect on last winter, they won't remember the 2023 season too fondly, but as one that started slowly and finished early with only a few good weeks somewhere in the middle. It was a tough one with Snowy Hydro’s snow depth at Spencer’s Creek peaking at just 131cms on July 13th, the lowest reading since 2006’s shocker of 85.1cms, but not far below the 148cms recorded in 2015. Also, the peak snow depth for a season is

usually reached in August or September and last year, for the second time since 2014, it was July that saw the apex before things started to slide. Last time that happened was 2021 when late July was the peak with 183cms. However, like all seasons in Australia, there were plenty of fun days on the hill, including a good run of powder days and cold winter snow in late June and early

July, a rare bonus for the busy school holiday period. The back half of July was all about ripping turns on piste while the freeski crew enjoyed plenty of sunny days with light winds and the terrain parks were the hub of the activity, energy and fun. This page: Drew Jolwizcz, hooking into beautiful blower powder in Hotham during the first storm of the season on June 19th. Photo: Dylan Robinson 49

MOMENTS FROM A WINTER

However, due to El Nino induced warm temps there was a slow but steady decline in the snowpack during that period, with minimal snowmaking, warm northwest winds and a couple of rain events. That trend continued in August which saw a couple of teasing 10cm top-ups, but unseasonably warm weather in between. The meltdown continued in September although a strong storm on September 8th dropped 25cms of snow across the Snowy Mountains – the biggest storm since early July – resulting in one of the better mornings of the season. Now while the stats on snowfalls and base depth put the comparative season rating into the lower tiers, there were some definite highlights and if you were there at the right time there was good fun to be had. As usual, to score those magic moments it’s all about putting in the time, taking chances and being on the hill. You need to make your own luck, especially in these tricky seasons. Let’s hope we’ve paid our dues with a few not-so-great ones in recent years and we’re ever-hopeful a good one is on the way. Right: Martin Longhitano, one of the many sunny park days in Perisher last winter. Photo: Dominic Piscioneri Below: Tess Boller is always there to get the goods on a Thredbo powder day. Photo: Boen Ferguson. Opposite: Angus Falconer, air time off Sponar’s Rock, Thredbo after the September storm. Photo: Tony Harrington

MOMENTS FROM A WINTER

Top: Henry Eisner, getting hip in Buller. Photo: Tony Harrington Bottom: Mitch Reeves, R&D in Buller’s park. Photo: Tony Harrington 52

Top: Riley Mathews, dragging the chain in Falls. Photo: Toby Royce. Bottom: Finn Bowes, left, and Nick Payne, two angles on a Falls powder day. Photos: Jack Arthur

MOMENTS FROM A WINTER

Steve Leeder, self-portrait on Mount Perisher. 54

FINN BILOUS SETTING THE FREERIDE WORLD ON FIRE

Over the past two years Finn Bilous, a 24-year-old skier from Wanaka has emerged as one of the leading freeskiers in the world, his progressive, creative skiing lighting up the Freeride World Tour. Finn finished the 2024 season, his second year on tour, fourth in the world rankings and while he may not have won an event, his skiing is changing the perception of what can be done in competitive big mountain freeriding. A two-time Olympian, Finn represented New Zealand in park and pipe at Pyeongchang in 2018 and Beijing in 2022 but, typically for a Wanaka skier, freeriding has always been part of his DNA. Finn is just at home in big mountain terrain as in the terrain park and it’s a combination which has seen the freeskiing world sit up and take notice. Finn was in Alaska on a film shoot for Matchstick Productions when Reggae Elliss caught up with him a few weeks ago. This page: Styling off a backcountry booter near home. Photo: Mark Clinton 60

Hey, Finn, I know you’re busy, thanks for taking the time for a chat. You’re up in Alaska now, filming with Matchstick Productions, how has that been? Insane, definitely one of the best trips of my life. It’s a humbling place to come ride as a skier, the sheer magnitude of these mountains and the scale of the terrain is hard to grapple with until seeing it in person. This trip has given me a whole new perspective on what’s possible in the mountains.

What other athletes are involved? I’m up here with Colby Stevenson, Karl Fostvedt, Emily Childs and a full production crew from MSP Films. The crew has been going hard up here, stoked to show ya’ll the shots we got in the new movie coming out this fall. Let’s get back to the start. You grew up in Wanaka and come from a skiing family, can you remember when you started skiing?

My first memories of skiing go as far back as I can remember. I was plonked on skis at two years old and spent most of my childhood chasing around my older brother, Hank at Treble Cone and Snow Park (New Zealand). What was it like growing up in Wanaka and who did you ski with as a kid? There is a lot of talent there and a strong older crew - Sam Smoothy, the Wells bros - who did you look up to and was anyone a particular influence?

Growing up in Wanaka was a huge privilege and definitely has had a huge impact on not just my skiing style but the way I approach life. There’s ample opportunity to do so many different types of activities and I was fortunate to be surrounded by a motivated crew of grommies that were keen to do exactly that. I ripped around lots with my older brother, Hank and the likes of The Porteous boys, The Wells Brothers, Craig Murray and some of the NZ snowboarders

like Carlos Garcia-Knight and JJ Rayward. We were all inspired by the older generation of Kiwi pros and were lucky to have mentorship from guys like Jossi Wells, Sam Smoothy, Will Jackways and OG’s such as Geoff Small. All of those people have had a huge influence on me in life. The place is such a hot bed of talent and then you have the option to ski the freeride terrain in Treble Cone or the Cardrona, which is renowned for 61

FINN BILOUS – SETTING THE FREERIDE WORLD ON FIRE

I could no longer write ‘student’, so it was like “damn, I guess I’m a pro skier now”, ha ha! Classic. That would have been a cool moment. While you may have made your name internationally as a park skier, it’s fair to say you’ve always been an all-rounder. You did the NZ junior freeride series when you were a kid and then in 2019 entered the freeride qualifying events in the Remarkables, winning the two-star and then fourth in the four-star. That was during a period between the 2018 and 2022 Olympics - at that stage did you think you’d stay in park and pipe? Skiing has always been multidisciplinary to me. As I got older, specialising in a singular discipline became more encouraged. The competition schedules began to overlap, and it was really challenging to be at everything all at once. I didn’t want to spread myself too thin, so I had to start prioritising different events. When I was 16-years-old, I’d actually qualified for the Junior Freeride World Championships but couldn’t attend as I had also qualified to represent NZ at the 2016 Youth Olympic Games. Looking back this was one of the first major decisions I had to make about which pathway to go down. When did you decide to make the change to freeride full-time?

its terrain parks. Best of both worlds some might say - did you split your time between the two?

cliché rings true. I remember watching the old Poor Boyz Productions films religiously and being so drawn

For sure. The variety of terrain is one of my favorite parts about Wanaka, there’s always something to do not matter what the conditions cater for. Growing up, I would spend a fairly equal amount of time between Snow Park and Treble Cone.

to the lifestyle and energy of freestyle skiing. I was probably six or seven years old when I knew that I wanted to dedicate a lot of my life to this sport.

You made your name as a park and pipe skier, made the NZ team for Youth Olympics, Junior Worlds and then the PyeongChang Olympics in 2018 and Beijing Olympics in 2022. Did you have a goal as a kid to be a pro skier? My parents always encouraged chasing what you love and as a byproduct I became a professional skier. There’s been lots of hard work along the way and so many people who have helped make that dream become a reality. However, I think the 62

You scored an invite to the Aspen X Games in 2019, which is the biggest freeski event on snow. Was that a big moment, was that when you thought you were truly a pro skier? It was definitely a gratifying moment being invited to the X-Games. However, I find you’re so focused and there’s so much going on at those big events that you don’t have much time to really digest those moments. I remember more clearly flying out of New Zealand after finishing high school and when you have to write down your occupation on your departure card

Although the Park and Pipe schedule was busy I’d often be able to sneak away for a few pow trips between contests. However, once COVID hit, this was no longer a possibility as we were under strict guidelines from our National Team as to where and who we could travel with during our off time. I really didn’t enjoy these restrictions and having to be more singular focused on Park and Pipe. Throughout those years of travelling through the pandemic was when I ultimately realised I was craving a change. I was given the opportunity to compete as a Wildcard in Fieberbrunn stop of the FWT just two weeks after competing in the 2022 Beijing Winter Olympics. It was the perfect opportunity to dive back into the Freeride scene. That event was super fun and I was stoked to be back in that community, so I decided to keep chasing it the following year. Your brother Hank is an awesome skier and he did a few years on the FWT and he lit it up with some radical lines. Did his success inspire you to switch to freeride? Growing up in Wanaka enabled Finn to enjoy equal time in Cardrona’s park and Treble Cone’s freeride terrain. The result is some of the most progressive skiing you’ll see. Photo: Mark Clinton

FINN BILOUS – SETTING THE FREERIDE WORLD ON FIRE

For sure. I think watching both my brother Hank and Craig Murray ski on the Freeride World Tour made it seem far more attainable. I’ve skied with both of them so much growing up that I could begin to relate to the lines they were skiing. How did you find the tour when you first competed? Did you know many of the other athletes? It was exciting, compared with the structure of Olympic programs the Freeride World Tour felt far more loose and honestly, just a damn good time! Riders want to do well and they’re going to push themselves in the contest, but they’re also there to mess around, have fun and party a bit. I was lucky to have known a bunch of the riders before joining the Freeride World Tour as I’d met them through my brother in previous years. Unfortunately, my brother was no longer competing on the FWT when I joined but I was super grateful to have the likes of Craig Murray, James Hampton & Jess Hotter competing at the same time as they helped me get my head around the contrast and similarities of competing in the Freeride World as opposed to the Park and Pipe world. You’ve brought progressive skiing to the FWT - it has always been about big mountain lines and aggressive skiing, big cliff drops etc. It still is, but did you go on tour with the intention of shaking it up? Thank you. I saw my wildcard invitation 64

last season as an opportunity to showcase maybe a different style of skiing on the Freeride world Tour. I find the Freeride judging criteria wants to funnel you into a certain style of skiing and I tried to think less about the results and more about trying to ski lines that represented the style of skiing I’m most drawn too. That’s maybe a little less fall line, more cross court and freestyle. I like seeing those creative, fluid lines on large exposed faces. I reckon that has freshened up the tour and the audience love it. There’s a pretty rad crew of young guys on the tour - Max Hitzig, Marcus Goguen, Ben Richards, Maxime Chabloz, Max Palm etc. It’s pretty inspiring. Do they push you? No doubt! The level of riding this season was insane! Those guys are all animals, it’s been a cool era of the FWT to be a part of and I’m stoked/scared to see where it goes in the future! What’s the story with Kiwis and success in freeride? There’s a heap - first it was Sam Smoothy and now it’s you and Ben Richards, your brother, Blake Marshall, Craig Murray, Jamesa Hampton. Jess Hotter was 2022 women’s world champ. Is there something in the water? Good question. I’d say it’s a combination between having access to so much amazing terrain, skiing in subpar snow conditions and, most importantly, the community that supports Freeride skiing in NZ. We’ve got a really strong network of riders, supportive parents and guidance

from NZ Junior Freeride Tour organiser and judge - Dion Newport. Without all of those people, I don’t think any of us Kiwi’s would’ve had half the opportunities we’ve had. The pathway to the world stage is only getting stronger so I’m sure you’ll see plenty more Freeride rippers from NZ in the coming years. You’ve now done two years on the FWT. What’s your plan from here, keep competing and mix it up with filming? I’m going to take a few weeks to decompress after this Northern hemisphere winter and then start to figure out what next season is going to look like for me. I’m really enjoying the direction I’m going with my skiing at the moment, so I’ll be looking to spend more time in the backcountry with good friends and family. I’ve also got some new visions and concepts I’d like to bring to life with my sponsors. We’ll see how much competition plays into that plan. What about this southern hemisphere season? I’ll be back home in Wanaka, New Zealand in late July. Have got a few projects in the works so looking forward to getting stuck into those and being back in my home mountains. Thanks Finn, good to have a chat. Thanks legend, See ya out there.. Above: Stomping a clean three in the FWT comp in Verbier. Photo: J Bernard/Freeride World Tour

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65 Revelstoke Mountain Resort

When the seasons begin to change, Cardrona and Treble Cone get ready to move. Join us at two of New Zealand’s favourite mountains this winter, and explore over 1000ha of terrain, the Southern Hemisphere’s most extensive terrain parks and halfpipes, and those unmissable Southern Alps views. Are you in? Move with us this winter.

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cardrona.com 67

THE FREERIDE FORCE IS STRONG IN THE YOUTH WORDS BY COEN BENNIE-FAULL, JAKE WOODS AND NICHOLAS HIGGINSON - HIGHER FREERIDE

We’ve all felt the pressure of trying to squeeze the most out of the Australian winter season. Finishing work early on a Friday (to the boss’s dismay), loading up the car, storming up or down the Hume Highway, hoping to beat the traffic, hoping it snows, hoping they spin that chair you’ve been hanging out for all winter. We don’t take a single day or lap for granted. For an upcoming contingent of young competitive Australian freeride athletes they can relate to the old phrase about diamonds being formed under pressure. They are honing their craft in sometimes challenging or limited conditions but when they get to go toe to toe with the world’s best in the Freeride World Tour Junior events in New Zealand, Europe and North America, these young athletes

are holding their own in an increasingly tough game.

shared it with anybody who would think to come looking.

Freeride is the fastest growing winter sport in the world, originating as a snowboarder only contest, at the 1996 Xtreme Verbier. An invite-only event, it was devised to give riders an opportunity to showcase their skills against one another in the crucible of The Bec des Rosses in Verbier. Thirty years later the finals are still held each year on this same awesome zone. Freeride is growing with roughly 6,000 participants world-wide across 200+ organised events but it’s only just beginning to poke its head through the clouds.

“There’s not too many things in life where you can put yourself in a position where you have to concentrate on one thing and one thing only. It’s a wonderful part of being alive, to be able to experience something like that.” Steve Classon Xtreme Verbier Legend

It started out as a counterculture movement of sorts. The explorers, daydreamers and thrill seekers created something that was wholly theirs and

There’s a deep tradition of exploration and adventure in our unique alpine playground. Local legends and the anonymous alike have spent many years scouring the many ridges and gullies of the Australian Great Dividing Range, sharpening their tools and skillsets, Opposite: Finn Jacobson keeping the camera man in check with this sniper landing. Above: Coach Coen Bennie-Faull sweeping up the leftovers after an athlete harvest 69

THE FREERIDE FORCE IS STRONG IN THE YOUTH

“THERE’S NOT TOO MANY THINGS YOU

CAN

LIFE PUT

WHERE

YOURSELF

IN A POSITION WHERE YOU HAVE TO CONCENTRATE ON ONE THING AND ONE THING ONLY. IT’S A WONDERFUL PART OF BEING ALIVE, TO BE

ABLE

SOMETHING

EXPERIENCE LIKE

THAT.”

STEVE CLASSON - XTREME VERBIER LEGEND 70

searching for new ways to challenge themselves. Athletes like Nat Segal (3rd place, Revelstoke FWT, 2013), Michaela Davis Meehan (First Australian to win an FWT) and Vaughn Hardwick (2nd place, FWTJ World Championships, 2023) have taken it to the biggest stage and proven the humble hills of Australia can be proving grounds for global success stories. Described as ‘a vertical free-verse poem on the mountain, the ultimate expression of all that is fun and liberating about sliding on snow in wintertime’ (FWT) this sport has captured the imagination of the youth. Young ski racers who don’t

want to ski between the lines anymore and young freestylers enticed by the freedom of choice are jumping ship and joining freeride clubs globally. The sport is growing so fast that the FWT Junior events in Canada have had to limit the number of competitions an athlete can enter during a season to ensure all athletes have opportunities to participate. Freeride is a judged discipline where athletes earn points based on their line choice, technique, control, fluidity and air and style. A high scoring run will have painted a smooth but challenging line on the face, skied fast and in control, demonstrated style in the air and

confidence on their feet. A set of criteria for which the Australian mountains offer an ideal training ground.

in young Aussie skiers making them

Lifts may only spin down here for half the days that our Northern Hemisphere competition have access to. Ah well, we get what we’re given and it’s about what we do with each of those moments when they arise. Opportunity isn’t linear though, it favours the hungry and committed. The talent and success emerging from our Australian junior clubs in freestyle and moguls’ pathways over the past decade makes it clear; we have the facilities to train world class athletes and there is a passion and drive

The sometimes-vexing variability of the

serious contenders for places on podiums anywhere on the planet.

Australian snowpack is an unexpected advantage for our athletes giving them a leg up against much of their international competition. The shift from ice to powder to bumps to slush in the space of half a dozen turns we often experience at home mimics the upside-down conditions that are often dealt out in freeride events. Forced to make the most of it, Aussie athletes tend to not only cope in those unpredictable conditions, they shine.

Finn Jacobsen of the Mornington Peninsula, Victoria, cut his teeth as a junior freeride/freestyle athlete in club programs at Mt Hotham and now sits as the top ranked freeride junior in the world. Having just spent the winter with the newly formed Higher Freeride program following the European FWTJ series, Finn is holding the Australian flag high. Taking wins in Baqueira Beret, Spain and Montafon, Austria, Finn is proving to the world the fertility of our soil, qualifying for the Freeride World Junior Championships in January 2025. Above: Finn Jacobson proving he’s a force to be reckoned with. Opposite: Coach Jake Woods scoring the goods with a unique line choice. 71

THE FREERIDE FORCE IS STRONG IN THE YOUTH

Finn is just the tip of the iceberg; there’s a growing posse of young Aussie talent strutting their stuff on the global stage. Harry Rowden, Jackson Bayliss and Theo Lansbury showed their skills in Europe this season, Harry pushing the podium on multiple occasions. In America, Jasper Rogers has taken it all the way to the North American Freeskiing Championships and on the Freeride World Qualifiers while Zanna Farrell took out the coveted Nendaz Freeride to secure a spot on the Challenger series, vying for FWT qualification. The ability to take school and life on the road for the northern winter isn’t within reach for everyone, but it’s exciting to see the opportunities at home growing each season with freeride clubs popping up in most major resorts and junior freeride competitions now firmly on the calendar in both Hotham and Thredbo. The talent pool from down under is only set to deepen. Dion Newport’s New Zealand Junior Freeride Tour (NZJFT) offers the perfect leapfrog opportunity just across the ditch for young Aussies looking to flex and develop. International programs also popping up such as Higher Freeride and Team Buller Riders offering another lily pad for young athletes looking to take their skills to the world stage. The point is this, freeride skiing is not new in Australia. There’s been a bubbling pool of talent ripping around through the snowgums and seeking out big mountain lines since skiing got started down here, it’s just tended to be low-key and under the radar as is often the Aussie way. What’s new is the opportunities popping up for young skiers to get on a pathway in this exciting segment of our sport. The grassroots culture of freeride is firmly established and it’s only gaining momentum. Kids now have a community to join, heroes to look up to, coaching, avalanche safety training and avenues to travel and compete overseas. Freeriding will only become safer, more inclusive, more accessible and will produce more homegrown talent to take to the rest of the world. This is just the first chapter. Top: Higher Freeride’s first alumni topping out in Austria. Bottom: Harry Rowden styling out a turn the Austrian backcountry on the way down 72

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Anatomy of a Turn WORDS BY DREW JOLOWICZ

As skiers, how do we identify our sense of being, what motivates us? Is our participation purely recreational or do we harbour aspirations to reach an elite level? Seeking to constantly improve making the ‘perfect turns’, is there even such a thing? At the mercy of mother nature, like Jekyll and Hyde, the mountains can be stunning one day then completely uninhabitable the next. Then there’s the 76

issue of risk and how much is too much.

ski with their grandchildren. Huh?

Having spent my entire life on skis, the lens through which I view these concepts continues to evolve over time. That’s the beauty of skiing. It’s one of the few sports that allows for participation as we move through time. Multi-generational if you like. A rare activity that can be enjoyed by one, two or even three generations all together. Parents can ski with their parents and the parents of parents can

As a kid I played all the conventional sports but still to this day, none produce the same sense of fulfilment I get from sliding on snow. Most sports are governed by rigid rules and regulations. Run here, tackle there, don’t overstep the line, yada, yada, yada. Maybe it’s the anti-conformist side of free skiing that appeals to me. The

feeling of going against the grain and pushing the boundaries (which comes back to risk). Picking the right moment to dial it up to eleven, or knowing when to listen to environmental and human factors playing it safe. When I think of skiers past and present who’ve influenced today’s interpretation, they all blazed their path in different ways. That’s the thing about boosting around on a pair of skis, it’s different. It

allows for expression in so many ways. Essentially if there’s snow, you can ski on it. Sometimes there doesn’t even have to be snow, just ask Candide. Within reason, a skier can turn their skis wherever they want. Perhaps an exception being the icy race tracks of the World Cup circuit or the Olympics. But then even Bode Miller found ways to challenge the establishment, finding speed in places no one else dared to.

This brings us back to the ‘true ski centre’ of this discussion. Does the ‘perfect turn’ exist? After all, the ‘turn’ is at skiing’s very core. It has been since the start and still is now. Whether it's big mountain freeriding, powder, park and pipe, moguls or simply ripping around the resort with your friends, it can’t be done without turning your skis. It’s the one constant across all forms of the sport.

ANATOMY OF A TURN

The notion of the ‘perfect turn’ is tricky to comprehend given there’s so many different settings to consider. Is it achieving max angulation on the piste with a perfect body position? Feeling the ski bend as pressure is progressively applied. Or is it a ripping pow slash with no edges or textbook required as snow billows up into the atmosphere. A free-skier floating effortlessly through an open powder field is going to interpret their surroundings differently to a World Cup Racer tackling a terrifying downhill track. The heightened senses of a Freeride World Tour athlete staring down the Bec des Rosses will analyse the complex terrain differently to a weekend warrior. 78

And there-in lies the quandary of the search for the ‘perfect turn’. The juxtaposition if you like. Long vs short, powder vs crud, groomers vs a World Cup Mogul course. It’s comparing the incomparable. Maybe we shouldn’t even try. Maybe the ‘perfect turns’ are the ones made in our subconscious mind on the eve of a powder day. Dreaming of making a bee-line to your favourite run. The secret stash at your home resort, the one only you and a select few know about. Imagining the contours of the terrain, the texture of snow. Each ‘perfect turn’ envisioned in sequence. One, two, three, feel the snow and the rebound

it provides. Letting it rip turn after turn, long, short, shallow or deep. Skis, body and mind perfectly in sync. It’s the peaking arousal of the senses, the ultimate rush. Last winter was definitely no world beater here in Australia, feeling like the eternal spring as El Nino did its thing. Previous spread: Harry Laidlaw, power and technique through the fresh snow on one of the best days in Hotham last winter. Photo: Dylan Robinson. Above: Hannes Grimus, speed to burn on the Buller corduroy. Photo: Tony Harrington. Right page Top: Stian Hagan, cold, dry wind-blown snow in Hotham last July. Photo: Dylan Robinson Bottom: Drew Jolowicz, deep in the Hotham fresh last June. Photo: Chris Hocking.

ANATOMY OF A TURN

Challenging conditions for laying down the ‘perfect turn’ although on the right equipment, and with the right attitude, maybe it can be done. This brings us back to the original question. Who’s to say what the ‘perfect turn’ looks like and more to the point, does it really even matter? As long as you’re living in the moment, absorbing only what’s in front of you. At Hotham we were fortunate to have some of the most talented skiers in the world turn their skis however they wanted. Olympian Harry Laidlaw scored the best powder day of the season in July. One of Australia’s leading GS skiers, Harry skis with grace and power and is equally at home off piste as he is on. I was fortunate to be skiing with Harry this day and it was a privilege to witness him strap the wide boards to his feet and rip some powder turns wherever he wanted. Around this time offered the best conditions of the season which also 80

saw the homecoming of Hotham big mountain skier and World Extreme Champion Andrea Binning and her family. Andrea’s Norwegian husband Stian Hagen needs no introduction, having been at the forefront of the international free-skiing and mountaineering scene for decades also. Together with their kids Aksel and Camile, they’re the epitome of an adventure family. A great example of how the love of skiing and a life in the mountains can be passed on and enjoyed by multiple generations. To see Andrea and Stian out ripping around the resort with their family it was obvious the future of skiing is in safe hands. So, what’s the underlying theme or take-home message? Maybe there isn’t one, other than any day skiing is better than not skiing. Sure, nothing beats bottomless powder, but if we only skied the deep days we’d miss out on so much. Mountain life fosters friendships spanning a lifetime.

This winter take the singles line and strike up a conversation with a stranger on the chair. It’s amazing the connections that can be made when forced to share a confined space with someone you’ve never met in a raging blizzard! It’ll usually start with ‘how good’s today!’ or ‘gee, I like the look of those skis, what are they?’ For those few minutes polar opposite lives collide, swapping stories with a common interest. Skiing. Maybe the ‘perfect turns’ exist, maybe they don’t. It could be as simple as they’re the ones we’re making at the time no matter the conditions. Everyone’s ‘anatomy of a turn’ will be different and that’s ok. Our own individual brushstrokes on the canvas of skiing. If you ever do stumble across the ‘perfect turn’ bottle the feeling and savour it. In the meantime, we can all have fun searching. Above: Markus Singraber, popping the perfect turn for pillows in Whitewater, BC. Photo: Dylan Robinson

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THE LAST UNDISCOVERED SKI TOWN IN AMERICA? WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY TONY HARRINGTON

As the Alaskan Airlines flight drops down through the clouds my destination finally comes into sight. The view for the past couple of hours from Seattle has been a steady stream of snow-capped mountains and it’s only in the final minutes as we come up the Gastineau Channel that a small criss-cross of roads and buildings are revealed – Juneau, Alaska. You can only get to Alaska’s state capital by air or ferry and you’d be forgiven for not realising Juneau is technically a city. The vibe here is small town, and in the winter months it’s not exactly bustling. The main street has a rustic charm and you get the feeling it doesn’t look a hell of a lot different now to when the hunt for gold brought prospectors, including Joe Juneau, this way back in the 1880s when the town was established. Indigenous Tlingit (pron: clink-it) and Haida (pron: high-da) Indian tribes have been fishing these salmon-rich waters for centuries and as you walk through town Tlingit names are on signs, buildings and maps. As I’m exploring the main drag I’m trying to picture what’s it’s like in summer when half a dozen cruise liners pull in each day and tourists swarm through

This page: Franklin St in downtown Juneau. Making me nostalgic for how Telluride, Park City and Crested Butte used to look. 84

THE LAST UNDISCOVERED SKI TOWN IN AMERICA?

town. I’m definitely here in the offseason – and that’s how I like it. I feel like I’m getting in on a well-kept secret, because just over the bridge on Douglas Island there’s a rad ski mountain, and this whole area is surrounded by amazing heli-accessed terrain and there is barely anyone here. I made my first visit to ski Eaglecrest – they call it a ski hill, it’s 640 acres with 1620 feet of vertical – last year and I’m fired up to be back so soon. Could this be a unicorn; a seriously good ski destination that hasn’t been overrun (yet?) What it doesn’t have ticks a lot of my boxes – no lift lines, no traffic snarls on the 22-minute drive from town, no parking dramas, no wanker attitude and no frills. What it does have is darn good skiing, friendly locals, a huge almost empty ski area and at the end of the day plenty of great old school bars and places to get a great meal back in town. 86

I’m not going to spin some line or say the snow is always epic – it gets it all here; deep dry powder, creamy dreamy soft snow, a bit of crust and crud and the occasional dollop of mashed potatoes and a smattering of hard pack. As skiers we are all gamblers, but I’d put a bet on this place any day. And that’s why after my first taste I was keen to get back, and I brought a few mates with me. Our group of skiers and boarders from Mt Buller consisted of Moz Bardas, Mal and Harry Hart, Mt Buller legend Hannes Grimus and his Austrian mountain guide mate Peter Breitfuss - and it was certainly an eye opener for everyone. It was Hannes’s first trip to Alaska and as we planned this mission he was frothing on every detail. When he’s not freeskiing or running the ski shop in his family’s business, Pension Grimus on Mt Buller, Hannes spends his life around ski race courses, initially as an FIS alpine

racer and more recently as a World Cup/Olympic coach. Hannes convinced his mates Moz and Mal to join the trip. Both Moz and Mal are seasoned Alaskan heli skiers who have scored both hits and misses on heli skiing trips up this way. When you’re working with Mother Nature, the Alaskan wilderness and helicopters you know you are buckling into a rollercoaster ride that can be the biggest thrill of your life or an expensive and frustrating disappointment. Most heli trips require a willingness to accept a level of risk and reward in equal measure – but the good news for our group was, we found a way to tilt the odds a little more in our favour. Most heliski operations in Alaska are tucked out in remote locations. A helicopter, its pilot and engineer are out in these far-flung spots every day of the heli season – which is a cost to the operation. It doesn’t matter if the

heli doesn’t leave the ground, there are fixed expenses and they are passed on to clients. No surprise there. Alaska Powder Descents are a little different because the helicopters they use are based out of Juneau airport and they only pay for the time they fly. For us, it meant instead of sitting in a heli lodge waiting anxiously for those fly-days we had tonnes of options that made for an epic week’s stay. When we weren’t getting in turns at Eaglecrest we were poking about in downtown Juneau, slotting in some hunting and fishing adventures and getting up to retail mischief in the epic outfitter stores (more Carhartt and guns than you could ever imagine). It’s pretty extraordinary to have a heli trip with such low ‘skunk factor’ in the mix, and the ‘local ski hill’ here is a big part of that insurance.

Eaglecrest’s inbounds terrain is a seriously good time and on their (Alaskan) rating has about 40% advanced terrain with another 40% intermediate. Then you take a peek at the side and backcountry and realise you need a lot more time here. Once you set your sights beyond the generous amount of groomed runs and steep off-piste terrain within the marked ski area, you are tempted with a smorgasbord of big, steep, Alaska-sized peaks and terrain features where short hikes or a tour from the top of the Ptarmigan lift will put you into some of the best terrain any serious freeskier could imagine. As a bonus, you get to ski back to the lift. I don’t think I’m going too far out on a limb to say this place is a legit adventure ski destination that I would put high on any North American list, if not at the top. The fact that it’s completely off the radar only makes it more off the hook.

Anyway, I’m getting you distracted, from the main event – the promise of heli lines that brought our posse of powderseekers all the way from Australia. In the case of Moz, Mal and Harry they’d literally just landed when we got the call that it was on. Hannes and Peter had at least had a couple of days to get their AK bearings, but for the others we scooped them from the arrival hall fresh off their international flight and made the short drive 500m to the Temsco Heli base where Alaskan Powder Descents (APD) were ready to deliver us to the top of some fresh lines. Top photo: Craving epic lift accessed back country terrain? Here’s Theresa Peak, Hogsback and Mt Ben Stuart. Left to right: 1. Lana Scanlan and Mary Griggs dropping into the Bear Trap; 2. Mountain boss Dave Scanlan keeping it real; 3. Harry Hart feeling out the Juneau pow; 4. Eaglecrest’s groomers taking in the view after nightshift. 87

THE LAST UNDISCOVERED SKI TOWN IN AMERICA?

APD are a small operation and it gives them the advantage of being really nimble. When conditions align they can act fast. Our group hustled into action, the sky was blue, there was powder in the mountains waiting and no better way to shake jetlag than a whiff of Jet-A, the scream of a turbine and face shots to boot. It’s such a dance with the weather and terrain in Alaska as you strive for that ‘goldilocks’ alignment of snow falling and weather clearing and the hope that blasting wind doesn’t undo it all. It can often happen that as the low-pressure storm system moves out high pressure can build in the interior. This pressure imbalance will suck in frigid arctic air that funnels down valleys at a blistering speed, hammering whole swathes of terrain turning dreams of powder turns into nightmares. These weather events also send the mercury plummeting making for insanely cold days. Despite this exact scenario happening during our window we struck gold, just like those early pioneers, with a number of drainages that had escaped the onslaught of the wind. We feasted on bountiful, long powder filled runs in dead-calm conditions to the valley floor. The bliss of being in these sheltered seams of powder while witnessing the gale force winds stirring up a swell on the Lynn Canal below us was mesmerizing. After three days of flying and gorging on untracked vertical another North Pacific storm system made its way to us. It was time to say goodbye to our rotorspinning ways and get our kicks finding fun off the Ptarmigan chair at Eaglecrest. Good times were had exploring the terrain, and fair to say that ‘local ski hill’ has plenty going for it as we slayed tree lines and kept the stoke levels sky high. I was hoping to get the boys out past “The Ridge” on to Hogs Back and over to Mt Stewart but the weather had other ideas. I guess we’ll just have to do that next time.

This page: Hannes Grimus finding salvation away from over-crowded ski resorts.Next page: Moz Bardas (left) and Hannes Grimus (right) getting into what they came for with Alaska Powder Descents. 88

THE LAST UNDISCOVERED SKI TOWN IN AMERICA?

I can only imagine what it would have been like to kick along Colorado Street in Telluride, Elk Avenue in Crested Butte or Main Street Park City back in the days when they were still low-key ski towns before winter tourism really took hold and changed them into the destinations they are today.

cool to experience somewhere special

Left top to bottom: 1. Hannes feeling the se-

before everyone else cottons on to what

renity on Bonnie Doon Drive; 2. Yep, it’s a ski

a gem it is. If you like your skiing solid

town all right, the rest of the world just doesn’t

and simple and are up for the kind of

know about it - yet; 3. 69-year-old liftie “Hoot-

untamed adventure that Alaska offers

er Dave” loading up the groms. Right top to

just don’t go telling too many people.

trappings of some resorts, but they nail the

I feel pretty lucky to be strolling down South Franklin Street in Juneau, rolling into an old-school bar with no line outside and no fancy cocktails inside. It’s

PS: The local tourism website shares a

in your ride; 2. The new Eaglecrest gondola

cautionary message that ‘once you visit

is on the ground and soon to be installed; 3.

you may not want to go home’. Don’t say

Aussies Harry and Mal Hart, Hannes Grimus

I didn’t warn you.

meet the locals

this might be something you’d like too -

bottom: 1. Eaglecrest doesn’t have the fancy essentials for true skiers -like someone to dial

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THE MAGIC OF HOKKAIDO WORDS BY PADDY GRAHAM PHOTOS BY PALLY LEARMOND

I could try and tell you about our EPIC trip to Japan last January, where we shunned the use of ski-lifts for two weeks, toured endlessly through the magical forests and were blessed with the unbelievably cold, deep powder snow that the region is famous for, but apparently the human brain can process images up to 60,000 times faster than words, so these photos from Pally Learmond have already expertly expressed that part of the trip to your intellect. Instead, I thought I’d tell you a little about a local family that helped make our trip so amazing. Cam, Azusa and Asuka live in a small city just outside of Sapporo called Otaru, a port town on the Sea of Japan where the Siberian winds howl across the waters, picking up moisture as they go and deposit it as the famous “Japow” from sea-level all the way up to the ridgelines above. Since I last met them in 2019, they have relocated their coffee shop from Kiroro, one of the larger more international ski resorts in the area, to the sleepy and traditional streets of Otaru, with its head-high snowbanks obscuring most of the shops feels a world away from there.

Øystein Bråten, an Olympic and X Games gold medallist, taking his progressive freeskiing into the Hokkaido backcountry.

THE MAGIC OF HOKKAIDO

Entering the coffee shop, the warm air hits you with the same intensity as the welcome from the family, and you realise how painfully cold it is outside (-16). We’re greeted with open arms from the family I’ve kept in touch with since before the world went through its most recent dystopian years. During that time Cam has kept my desire to return to this sacred powder playground burning by sending me continual photos of his and Asuka’s adventures and of the endless new terrain that he has been out exploring. Cam is originally from Australia, he has a larger than life personality and only wants the best for people visiting. Officially the

area’s best unofficial guide, he knows all spots for great skiing, amazing cuisine and, to our amusement, offered to be our designated driver on a night out in Sapporo! Azusa, on the other hand is a much calmer host, a Master of Japanese Calligraphy called Shodo, she makes the best coffee in town with as much grace and attention to detail as she shows in her craft that hang on the walls. I’m one hundred percent sure Azusa was pulling the strings, so we could experience some of the best traditional eateries in town (that when visiting with Cam, always ended with us eating or drinking something that without a doubt we would/could not have ordered!).

So, if you ever make it to Hokkaido, which for any passionate skier I highly recommend, make sure to stop by and say hi, I’m sure you’ll pick up some tips on what to do that are not on trip advisor and if not, I wouldn’t be surprised if you meet Cam and Asuka at the top of one of the many powder runs on the island. Thank you B³! B³ Coffee is located at 1-7-6, Hanazono, Otaru, Hokkaido 047-0024, Japan. Left page, clockwise from top: Tom Ritsch having fun with the forest’s natural features; where the mountains reach the sea; Øystein Bråten, happy in Hokkaido; the streets of Otaru. Right page: Tom Ritsch, revelling in the cold smoke powder.

THE MAGIC OF HOKKAIDO

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THE MAGIC OF HOKKAIDO

Previous page left: This is skiing - Paddy Graham leaving a plume of dry pow. Right: Hidemitsu Okada on his home turf. Top: Tom Ritsch finding peace in the forest. L-R above: Øystein Bråten flying; hiking deep in the trees; Tom and Paddy on the way home. Opposite: The Legs of Steel Crew

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ラブレター (love letter)

Hokkaido - the northernmost prefecture A place like no other. Home to a seasonal pilgrimage. It’s in these mountains, That winter bares its soul. Those who journey through this land, Will truly know what it is to be free. And that is the magic of Hokkaido. In this new setting, Like minds immerse themselves in the culture. Making new friends along the way. It’s in the shared experience, All great adventures take shape. Some say that perfection is beyond reach. But maybe they just haven’t been here.

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THE MAGIC OF HOKKAIDO

You can watch ラブレター (love letter) from Legs of Steel on their Youtube channel. Presented by Völkl. Directed & filmed by Andre Nutini

Featuring Tom Ritsch, Øystein Bråten, Hidemitsu Okada & Paddy Graham

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TO GET THERE

I N F O @ F U T U R E S P O R T. COM . A U P R O T E ST. E U 105

Les Trois Vallées sont fantastiques WORDS BY RHYLLA MORGAN PHOTOS BY TONY HARRINGTON

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If you love to ski, and love to travel one day you’ll travel to France to ski - it’s Newton’s little-known 7th law. The French have been skiing, and making it cool, for a long time and eventually their Alps, cheese, wine and chic ways will ensnare you. Don’t fight it.

on our list, mainly around snowfall and terrain mix with accessibility and accommodation options also high priorities. A deep dive into the longrange forecast and a decision to seek high-altitude for snow confidence made Les 3 Vallées our pick.

We’d decided to spend January skiing in Europe and to head somewhere we’d not visited before. It’s an investment of time and money to do the Europe thing, so there were a few non-negotiables

You’ve likely heard of this place because Les 3 Vallées (L3V) is the largest ski area on the planet, by an insanely legburning margin. L3V encompasses seven individual ‘resorts’ taking the stats to

mind-blowing levels - we’re talking 600kms of runs and 1,500 hectares of piste. It’s also reassuring as we face the threat of low-snow seasons is that 85% of the ski area is perched above 1800m and the areas are connected by lifted linkages high on the ridges, not on the valley floor. The five largest ski areas in the US can all fit inside Les 3 Vallées trail map, so you get the idea of the scale of Above: Perched at 1850m Meribel Motterat is perfectly situated in the middle of 600km of groomed runs spanning what is actually four valleys.

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LES TROIS VALLÉES SONT FANTASTIQUES

this place. It’s 20kms as the crow flies from Courchevel in the east across to Orelle (technically in the fourth valley) across in the west. The trail map is a lot to take in and the marked pistes are just the start. When the conditions permit there is so much off-piste and side country you’d need to stay for the season, or move here permanently, in order to ski it all. For serious skiers this place is the real deal. Steeps, off piste, ear-popping gondola rides to high peaks and options to explore couloirs with plenty of très difficile options. As you take each trail down and ride up each lift your head is constantly on swivel as you try to take in the countless options laid out all around you. Harro connected with some impressive locals and was blown away by what they had to show him, and where a few short (and longer) hikes could lead. We scored a good dump within days of arriving and two days later there were still untracked morsels to be found, testament to how big the area is. For the rest of us skiing mortals who maybe aren’t going to tear into the This page: Former FWT 3rd overall Jeremy Provost was born and bred in the Meribel Valley and you can appreciate why he still lives here. 108

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famed Grand Couloir or drop cliff bands, the sweep and scale of terrain here means you’ve got more mountain than you likely have ski-legs. Another plus, the majority of the well-heeled guests staying in Courchevel, Meribel and Val Thorens are happiest cruising the groom in their designer threads in short stints between long lunches so aren’t fighting it out for the freshies. We based ourselves in the ‘heart’ of the three valleys, in the higher reaches of the Meribel valley in a hamlet called Meribel Mottaret which sits around 1850m. The flexibility to duck home to swap out camera gear and being in a sweet spot with lift access up and over in either direction to the other valleys earned our stamp of approval. Mottaret is low-key, more chalets and apartments than glitzy hotels, with a handful of spots for après and dinner. We embraced the morning routine of getting fresh baguette at the market and practicing our bad French, then taking a short gondola ride home with our groceries each evening. If you’re after a bit more glamour and the chance of running into royalty This page: Kelly Berthon sails over the Val Thorens, the highest ski resort of Europe perched at 2300m

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LES TROIS VALLÉES SONT FANTASTIQUES

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LES TROIS VALLÉES SONT FANTASTIQUES

or celebrities you’ll want to be in Courchevel where you’ll be spoiled with Louis Vuitton, Prada and Dior along the swanky shopping strip and your choice of Michelin starred dining spots. It’s here you have to take a moment in the middle of the ski area to stop and watch the mesmerising take offs and landings at one of the most extreme airports in the world. The short, steep runway is only for the most experienced pilots and it’s an amazing show as the private planes and helicopters buzz in and out. Wherever you base yourself in this huge resort area the lifting network has you covered and the different villages all offer their own distinct feel. Want to party? Val Thorens. Want something chill and friendly for kids, La Tania. Looking for a better deal, the friendly Les Menuires. The other thing we enjoyed was that it feels properly French here. Cigarette 114

smoking, Pernod sipping and obsessed with their dogs kind of French. This is real European skiing and as soon as you get out of Geneva airport and around the shores of Lake Annecy you are blown away by the centuries of history, stone farmhouses, ancient churches and giant looming granite massifs. Sure, there are folks who can speak plenty of English (and pockets of English tourists) but part of the experience is taking in the rhythms of French life and language and not hanging in an enclave of Aussie tourists - why fly halfway around the world to feel like you could be in Manly? This is the perfect place to lean into all things involving bread and cheese and wine – ideally all three. You’re in the proud culinary heart of the French Alps so if there was a time and place to say ‘oui’ to fondue, try a pierrade and that strange looking sausage at the deli counter – it’s here.

And make sure you give yourself enough time. Jet lag is a thing and anything less than seven days will barely be enough. In addition to the skiing, skiing, skiing and cheese eating you’ll want to try things like a tandem parapente flight, the crazy sled runs (Meribel has one that is 3kms long), the intense zip line across the Val Thorens ski area and of course an afternoon dancing on the tables drinking champagne at La Folie Douce. Previous spread: Timy Theaux on one of the seemingly endless array of off-piste options found around Courchevel. Top photo: top Jeremy Provost, Meribel. From left to right: 1. Courchevel 2. Aussie boarder Cooper Fitcher loosing his mind on a 1,000m vertical drop of pow. 3. The La Folie Douce music and dance sessions in Val Thorens and Meribel are legendary

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Chamonix WORDS AND PHOTOS TONY HARRINGTON

The impacts of climate change are everywhere and Europe in particular feels like it’s shifting since I spent seasons here way back in the mid-90s. This winter was a case in point. There was plenty of snow in the Alps, but only for the resorts above 1700m. Those down lower were lucky if they saw snow. It was sad to drive past ski areas in February with barely a Brazilian strip of snow while others were simply shut. Chamonix is a zone that tends to deliver on the promise of snow, but that’s just the half of it. There are many reasons I am in awe of this place and if I had to choose one spot in Europe for the rest of my life this would be it. Cham may not be the most family friendly, nor the most inter-connected ski destination in Europe, but it is the most dramatic and inspiring ski zone for my money. It’s a real town, with schools, ice hockey matches and the everyday stuff of normal life going on as well as a pulsing culture of alpinism up and down this majestic valley. For me, and many skiers who seek out this place for their adrenaline dose, the fact it is not a ‘resort’ is part of the appeal. Then there’s the terrain. It’s take no prisoners here once you head beyond the managed pistes. One of the bucket list ski lines you’ll find here is the legendary Vallée Blanche which stretches from the top of Aiguille du Midi down to the valley floor into Chamonix. The vertical drop is almost 3 kilometres and you’ll have skied around 22kms by the time you reach the base – however doing the whole Vallée Blanche has been a pipe dream recently as the lower altitudes haven’t held snow. A telecabine (gondola) was built at what used to be the base of the ice field in the 1980’s and would return skiers to the Montenvers station where the famous little red train would link back to town. The Aiguille du Midi soars from 1,035m in the valley to 3,842m and is the gateway to the Vallée Blanche, the worlds’ longest lift-accessed ski descent.

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CHAMONIX

This iconic destination provides a stark example of what’s happening to glaciers in the Alps. In the early 1990’s three steps were added to connect the bottom station of the lift from the ice field as it receded. By the early 2000s 118 steps were needed to bridge the yawning gap and as climate change has accelerated so has the rate at which new steps were required with the total growing to a staggering 550+ steps by the early 2020s. These changes underline what my own memories and eyes have been telling me – we are losing fragile ice fields at a rate that is anything but ‘glacial’ in pace. In February this year a new ‘La Mer de Glace’ gondola opened as part of a 53 million euro investment by the Compagnie du Mont-Blanc to enable skiers, snowboarders and sightseeing visitors to access this magnificent natural wonder. The new lift extends to the bottom of the valley where it’s hoped the snow-pack will remain, allowing a ski connection to the base station for years to come. So the good news, “hot laps” (for those fit enough) are now back on the table without a massive hike back up. It’s now technically possible to do two or three runs in a day. Although the Vallée Blanche is skied without guides by those with the knowledge, a ski partner and a plan, guided tours are available and are a must for those not well versed in offpiste glaciated terrain. It’s a very long descent, with numerous routes that can lure you into dead ends. You will be skiing over crevasses with sometimes very fragile snow bridges and this is a wild and untamed place. A great day skiing can become lethal or at the very least turn into a scary-mad line. It’s worth remembering most locals and pros here can tackle terrain better than you ever could. Staying humble and making smart choices will mean you get to share your story over après and do it again. Google “extreme ski” and “Chamonix” to see what people get themselves into here. 118

Top to bottom: 1. Don’t look down. Before you get on snow there’s a ‘tight-rope’ walk along an icy arête; 2. Alaska Powder Descents heli-ski owner Kevin Krein sampling some of the finest terrain in the French Alps; 3. The Requin Hut Refuge is halfway down the VB. Bring cash as there’s no wifi for credit cards and you’ll want a plat du jour and a cold beer if you call in for lunch; 4. The base station of the new La Mer de Glace gondola connects at the bottom of the receding icefield; previously a climb of 550+ steps. 5.(Next page) The Brevent and Flegere ski areas offer dramatic views Bossons glacier and Mont Blanc across the valley. Locally born skier Dillon Hennessy oozing flare and feeling right at home.

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CHAMONIX

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Skier: Tess Boller

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Photo: Hiroya Nakata Skier: Sae Nonoyama, Sae Nishimura 122

Japan’s Largest Snow Resort

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RACHA – A BACKCOUNTRY TRIP IN GEORGIA’S CAUCASUS MOUNTAINS For filmmaker Andrew Hardy and photographer Jack Arthur a standard ski trip to one of the 100s of worthwhile destinations in the world doesn’t fulfil their sense of adventure, so they decided to look further afield. They wanted to travel to a region off the beaten track, one with good terrain and reliable snow where they could experience a different culture and produce a film documenting the trip. They decided a backcountry ski trip to the Racha Range in Georgia’s Caucasus Mountains more than meets that criteria, so they travelled across the world to spend six nights in an old Soviet-era hut. The hut is surrounded by “untouched snowfields, towering peaks, and peaceful valleys, everything you need for fun and adventure, but with geopolitical tensions high in the surrounding areas, the trip took on a more serious tone. Bert Seaton caught up with Jack for a quick chat about trip and what he discovered along the way. 125

RACHA – A BACKCOUNTRY TRIP IN GEORGIA’S CAUCASUS MOUNTAINS

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Georgia is a long way from Australia. How was the trip and what were your first impressions? Racha is in Georgia, a small Eastern European country south of Russia. We flew to the capital [Tbilisi], and after a big layover in Dubai, we were there. I expected more Soviet Union grunge, with big concrete buildings, but it ended up being quite a historic European setup – turns out Georgia is one of the one of the oldest civilisations in the area, with a rich history before Soviet influence. Was it a mission getting to the mountains? The Racha range is a long haul from the capital. Our guides picked us up from Tbilisi in a four-wheel drive Delica van, and all of us crammed in, putting our board and ski bags on the roof. We cruised through the countryside, through various wine regions (wine is huge in Georgian culture), and naturally, we stopped off

at a winery and grabbed five litres of amber wine to take into the backcountry. We drove the whole day and stopped at these cool huts that our guide Tamta called, ‘Babushka stops’ which are stopovers on the side of the road where they cook traditional meals. The drive kept getting more and more remote, and eventually we came into this tiny rural town called Ghebi at the base of the mountains, and from there we hiked eight hours to the hut. An eight-hour hike – so obviously pretty isolated, no phone, no internet, no connection to home. How’d you adjust to that?

On the first day I was caught up in what I’d left behind, like, “what have I missed for work… what am I doing?” and then we settled into this nice rhythm of focusing on nothing. Waking up, making coffee, cooking food, collecting water, chopping firewood, looking at the map of where to ski for the day, and for Andy and me, we were thinking about taking photos – and occasionally throwing down some amber wine and shots of Cha/Cha [a wine-based spirit]. But yeah, we settled into this slow mountain pace that follows the sun – because once the sun's down you’ve got nothing to do, so it gives you a reason to go to bed and then a reason to wake up.

Previous spread: Jack Arthur dropping in with plenty of room to move.. Photo: Andy Hardy. Opposite: Jack Arthur, 2 hours into skinning to the summit. Photo: Andy Hardy. This page top: Luka, Simon and Jack skiing out after a great day skiing near the summit. Photo: Andy Hardy. Above left: Gill Mignolet crosses the river. The ice-covered rocks made this pretty slippery in ski boots! Photo: Jack Arthur. Right: Videographer Andy putting in early morning strides on the skin track towards the summit. Photo: Jack Arthur. 127

RACHA – A BACKCOUNTRY TRIP IN GEORGIA’S CAUCASUS MOUNTAINS

The Ukraine war has made that part of the world pretty unstable and Georgia has had its own experience with war with Russia. What was the feeling in Georgia, with the locals you spent time with, toward Ukraine and what is happening now? You hear about the Ukraine war, but until I got to Georgia it just felt like a news item. As soon as we arrived in Tbilisi though, there were Ukrainian flags everywhere, every coffee shop had a flag hanging, they may even have a statement on their door saying, “don't come in if you support Russia” ... Then going to one of the ski towns and meeting some local ‘snow bums’ was interesting. In Australia ‘snow bums’ don't usually have much to care about – they’re just partying and skiing and stuff, which is a cool lifestyle, but these people were highly involved in politics in their country (out of necessity). One of the guides, who would usually have guided us, was away fighting in Ukraine – it impacted his life enough 128

for him to go and fight in an army, so that was confronting. And the head ski guide Luka, he grew up going to these mountain regions with his father, but he can't go to them anymore, because they're now occupied by Russia. He loves the mountains, it's part of his identity, so it had this personal impact that I don't know how to describe. It wasn't like being back in Australia where you just read the news and go, “oh, I'm educated, I'm upset with what's happened in the world”, to these guys it impacts their lives. In the film you guys made about the trip, you mention that the skiing felt insignificant. But it seems like this trip, and the skiing, gave you a better understanding of the bigger picture. Yeah, well you ski around and you’re in the mountains and it’s great, but you feel silly because these people are dealing with real stuff. You’re often reminded by bits of conversation about some protest or the fact that someone’s lost land. So, it felt silly that we were just skiing around,

but… also cool, because the skiing is what brought all of us together. That's why we ended up finding out about these people's lives. Without that we’d just have jumped on the tourist train and cruised around without this experience. By doing something we’re passionate about, we ended up in a situation where we were able to become closer with people. We got this real experience from real Georgians about what's happening and how they feel about it. You can check out the film by following Andy or Jack on Instagram @andrewhardy and @ jacksmitharthur Clockwise from top left: “The hut”, a hunting hut built by the Soviets. Our home for six days. Photo: Andy Hardy. Back to the van, drinking Georgian “Amber Wine” after an 8-hour-long trek back out to civilization. Photo: Andy Hardy. Anti-Russia graffiti in Tbilisi, the young people of Georgia are very much against Russia’s invasion of Ukraine. Photo: Andy Hardy. Jack Arthur putting in a powder turn in the trees. Photo: Andy Hardy

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JACKSON HOLE

JACKSONHOLE.COM

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ROAD TRIPPIN’ FROM THE HOLE TO THE SKY WORDS BY RHYLLA MORGAN AND TONY HARRINGTON PHOTOS BY TONY HARRINGTON

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This place has been on our wish list for a while and it felt good to be on the road heading to Montana. It’s a tall order to get in a car and drive away from Jackson Hole, which holds a deep and special place in our hearts, but not only were we watching Wilson disappear in the rearview mirror as we headed up Teton Pass munching on Pearl Street bagels we were genuinely excited for a day of driving and what was waiting for us a few hours away. We love road-tripping around rural US and are all about leaning into the cliché of journeys over destinations – it’s at least half the fun of travelling across the US. 134

The gas station coffee, making impulsive choices with snack foods, tuning in to local radio for some fiery talkback, pulling over to stop every few miles to take (another) photo of a grain silo, an old barn or a billboard about God – bring it on. We jagged an ideal driving day with mild temps, sunny breaks and mostly clear dry roads. Google was confident it could be done in around 3.5 hours, but we’d advise to plan for 4 or 5. Winter driving can throw curveballs with icy roads and snow storms and there are some sections between Tetonia and Yellowstone (where this picture is taken) where if it’s

storming or blowing they abruptly pull down the gates and close the road. It’s country driving and even if you’re not used to driving on the right-hand side it’s not that different to anything most Aussie skiers would do between Sydney or Melbourne to get to their usual ski resort, although instead of watching for roos and wombats out here you need to slow down for snowmobiles crossing. The great news is, if you want to skip the driving altogether there are now handy shuttle connections running between Jackson and Big Sky – which is perfect for anyone wanting to tick off two seriously great ski areas without the hassle of car rental.

As we neared the turn off to Big Sky there were signs we had arrived amongst our people. A couple of hardcore Wim Hof-ers were in the river and the local school’s performing art centre is named for Warren Miller. We later learned his ashes are scattered out the back of Big Sky. First impressions as we rolled up – it felt like a ski resort but also a real place. It’s tidy, well organised and feels like everything works smoothly but not so perfectly you feel like you’re in the Truman Show. Much of this is testament to the

investment and work the owners, Boyne Resorts, have put in here recently to bring the resort experience up to date. Big Sky has just celebrated 50 years and is looking as good as Gwyneth Paltrow. They’ve definitely had work done, but those high-speed lifts and sleek day lodges shave years off their true age. As Aussies we loved the played down approach to the big 5 – 0 milestone which the resort wryly says in their marketing, ‘we call that a pretty good start’. Big Sky’s birthday gift to themselves and their guests was unwrapped in December - a glorious, sleek and shiny new tram that flies you up to the top of Lone Peak in

under five minutes and still has that new car smell. A couple of things about the tram – they Previous spread: Wide open and white – views on the drive somewhere between Jackson Hole, Wyoming and Big Sky, Montana. This page: Tim Durtschi (left and top) exploring the Jackson Hole side country. Bobby Thomson (middle) in-bounds. (Bottom) Lynsey Dyer skiing for two! Yep, she’s expecting baby number 2. Next page: Big Sky’s Lone Peak tram soars to 3400m and a sweep of triple black diamond runs flow from the summit. 16-year-old Blaise Ballantyne knows them all like the back of his hand, no doubt a benefit of “home schooling”. 135

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don’t sandwich you in. You also don’t have to be a skier to ride it – you can head up top for a look and ride back down, but the loading station is up in the ski area, so you can’t do it in your Ugg boots (yet). The future plan is to build additional gondola links connecting the base to the summit, add dining and an observation experience as a year-round attraction. The tram is a highlight but if you were anywhere else the rest of the lifting network would be a headline in its own right. Take your pick of high-speed six and eight seaters, savour the heated seats and bubbles that make the uphill experience almost as appealing as the downhill bit we are all here for. And they’re not done, there are more lifting upgrades in the plan so what is already a great experience – no lines, smooth rides – is only getting better. But we’re completely burying the lead 138

here, it’s the mountain that you’re here for and the clue is on the label, as promised it is… big. But unlike many resorts, that are also big and promise tonnes of tasty terrain, this one is uncrowded so the bigger feels even better. The pitch from Big Sky is that they offer around an acre per skier and as you get out on the runs you start to believe it. There were moments it felt like we’d accidentally entered a closed run because there was no one in sight. Some resorts might quibble about the stats as to which North American resort can claim to be the ‘biggest’ but if Big Sky isn’t on top, it’s damn close, and unlike other contenders such as Whistler and Park City there are zero crowds out here. We know which mountain we’d choose. This visit was a fly-by as we were short on time but as we took our last run we agreed, we really need to come back here

and explore the place properly. We barely scratched the surface and skied past so many glades and looked up at so many chutes that are on the ‘next time’ list. Despite being tucked away in Montana Big Sky is slowly getting on more skiers’ radars and for good reason. Ikon Pass holders get between four to seven days here (you need to add the tram) and for Australians making the pilgrimage to Big Sky or Jackson Hole you’d be mad not to do both. Just leave space in your luggage in case you want to bring home a big ol’ cowboy hat and a belt buckle or two. (Top) Lone Peak soaring above 23.5 square kilometres of Big Sky terrain, one of the biggest in North America. Clockwise: The new Lone Peak tram glides into the top station; Blaise and his mate against the drop of private ski area of The Yellowstone Club; 15-year-old Rylan Messner is one of the hottest groms in the free ski scene with a big future; When in cowboy country, you have to check out a ski-joring event. It’s wild.

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GRANDECO SNOW RESORT TOHOKU, JAPAN WORDS BY EMMA WILSON PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRENDAN REEVES PHOTOGRAPHY

What an exhilarating experience it is to stand knee-deep in powder at 1982 metres atop Mount Nishi-Daiten, gazing across snow-blanketed forests toward the rugged crater of Mount Bandai. The snow-capped, concave summit serves as a stark reminder of the eruption 140 years ago that blew the top off the mountain taking 500 souls and is now the icon of Tohoku’s skiing region. 142

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Skiers make the pilgrimage to Japan in a quest for deep, light untracked powder and as we stood up on the tree-less summit draining the final sip of our thermos coffee and clicking into our skis we were already anticipating the silent and sparkling pillow ride down. A few hours earlier we’d set out from Grandeco Snow Resort with a gondola ride and then a chair bump to 1600m. It was from there we turned on beacons and followed our local guides along a thigh deep track, feeling our heart rates and body temperature climb as we did. What is just short of 400 metres of vertical took between 2-3 hours, a sobering reminder of the respect that must be paid to altitude and the challenge of making trail through deep powder. What it generously gives in feather light floating descents it demands back when you want to head in the other direction. We make a mental note to step up our pre-ski fitness regime and opt for skins over snow shoes next time.

perhaps a bit underestimated right now and if you want to ‘discover’ it before everyone else does you might want to get here soon. The resort caters to powder enthusiasts with dedicated offpiste areas, great powder skiing under the abandoned lift and surrounds and a 'powder course' threading through the trees. During our weeklong stay daily top ups of 5-15cm kept the riding fresh without being extreme. For those in your crew who might still be finding their powder legs Grandeco rolls out plenty of superb grooming so they’ll be happy shredding cord. And talking resort comforts they do have some hooded chairlifts in the mix which is welcome on a snow day.

Nearing the summit, we pause to take in the surreal and enchanting view of the famed ‘Snow Monsters’ - the trees that have been so loaded and rimed with ice and snow they really do look like mystical creatures.

Grandeco Resort has just 11 official runs, 5 park runs, 1 gondola and 3 chairlifts but the runs are long, and the side access is expanding every season. It’s a good base to check out the surrounding Bandai and Arabandai areas where there are 8 local snow resorts, such as Nekoma, only a short drive. Nekoma is an exercise in contrasts – previously two separate resorts it is now linked with a new lift. The south is more modern and leans to beginner/intermediate terrain, while the north offers more pitch and challenge and less people but with a trade off of old-Soviet vibes and less safety bars.

The ski down on virgin powder was worth every moment of the hike up. Drawing a line of turns through a silent forest on legendary Japanese pow feels like pure joy and there’s a reason it’s on the bucket list of every skier. We try to savour the moments which are gone all too quickly and we’re back inbounds before we know it settling in for traditional hot pot. If the stereotypical Japanese experience wasn’t already captured in our picture postcard morning, we rounded it out with a soak and steam in the hotel onsen. When in Japan.

I’ve been exploring Japanese ski areas since I was 16 and after clocking up time in close to 30 different resorts I will admit many can leave the accommodation side of a ‘holiday’ wanting. Getting the balance of comfort and authenticity is tricky. Swing too far on the side of traditional and you could spend your stay with fish and rice for breakfast, firm futons on tatami mats in tiny spaces and communal bathing or at the other extreme, it’s completely westernised resorts where you miss all the local flavour and culture.

Grandeco Snow resort is nestled in Honshu’s Tohoku region and it’s in the midst of a transformative phase. Simply put, it’s

Left: Richard Birkby, a clean line in through the open trees. Right: Emma Wilson, touring through the “snow ghosts”. 143

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Grandeco Resort seem to have struck that Goldilocks balance that makes a new visitor to Japan feel comfortable while making a great base for those who know their udon from their soba. There are western ski resort touches like a warming fireplace with marshmallows, a coffee machine offering bottomless refills and a library but ample opportunity to discover local cuisine and wine which is all local – you’ll want to try the Abukuma River salmon and the prefecture’s Wagyu beef. Turn on the tap and the water you drink and bathe in is from the local Onogawa Natural Spring – they even serve a unique water-jelly like dessert. The hotel is truly ‘ski in ski out’ with the gondola just a one-minute slide from the backdoor. When you’re not on the snow the hotel offers a 25-metre indoor pool, two generous size indoor and outdoor onsens, free massage chairs, a laundry (a travel bonus for families) and a massage service. We were the only western guests during our stay but that’s unlikely to last long with programs like the Rookie Academy out of New Zealand starting to run powder camps here. I was fortunate to spend a day with Academy founder Dean and my confidence

and comfort at riding in powder is already on the uptick. There’s plenty to see in the local area when not skiing so you may want to rent a car or tap into the hotel’s shuttle services. If you’re into Japanese history this region gives you a good sense of the power, politics and economy of the Meiji Restoration period. The town of Aizu, just an hour from the snow resort has an incredible castle with a museum that gives visitors an excellent understanding of weaponry, class hierarchy, traditional dress and topography. The multiple moats around the city were dug by hand. Yamatogawa Sake brewery in nearby Kitakata runs fascinating brewery tours at its contemporary site sourcing and growing rice locally. Its 220-year-old original brewery is also open as a museum and tasting room. Getting here: Grandeco Resort, is a 70-minute 8200-yen bullet train ride north from Tokyo Station. Change at Koriyama station to Inawashiro 30 minutes by local train and Grandeco Resort shuttles will collect you. Left Top to bottom: Richard BIrkby, getting deep; if the gates are open head into the side country, the hotel at night. Above: An enticing open bowl in the backcountry. 145

Legendary Colorado There are mountains. And then there are mountains that force you to shift forwards in your ski boots, lock in and pay attention. Few places capture the collective imagination of skiers worldwide with the same twangs of thrill and yearning like the legendary Rocky Mountains. The peaky cornices of Arapahoe Basin, the fabled back bowls of Vail and the gladed stashes of Beaver Creek remain rooted in the minds and muscle memory of those who have made turns in them. As for the storybook Colorado villages dappled around their bases; they will leave marks on the hearts of most unsuspecting powder pilgrims. Ski fiend and travel writer KATE ALLMAN discovers it all on a winter mission through Colorado. WORDS BY KATE ALLMAN

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Arapahoe Basin I’m soaring above a white canvas, skis pivoting left and right through the air as I draw my first imaginary lines from the chairlift. Sparkles prick up in little rainbows from tiny flakes reflecting ultraviolet light. We are cruising through the high, thin air of the Rocky Mountains, under typically dazzling Colorado sunshine. A surprise dump – which is so common in this state we should really stop using the word surprise – has struck overnight. It’s not “officially” a powder day but US snow reporters have done what they always do and underreported the accumulation, leaving the foot or two of fresh to only those in the know. The mountain looks resplendent. Arapahoe Basin – known as A-Basin to locals – has one of the longest ski seasons in the USA. It has peaks to rival the tallest (the hike-accessed East Wall is 13,000 feet – equal to nearby Breckenridge’s famous Peak 8), and powder that falls by the metre-load. It’s less than two hours from Denver and off a highway that is notorious for weekend warrior traffic, the i70. Somehow, though, we’re the only three skiers on the scene. “Where is everyone?” I ask local ski patroller Louis Skowyra, A-Basin’s Director of Mountain Operations. “Oh this? This is a pretty standard Tuesday for us,” he grins back. The highest peaks jut into a wind-wrestled sky, creating A-Basin’s famous A-framed cornices that collect creamy landings after fresh snow. Portions of groomer corduroy are hemmed on either side by shin-deep meadows. We dive headfirst over the backside into empty Moctezuma Bowl, a favourite playground at A-Basin. It’s zoomies on Zuma Bowl, then a refuel. Il Rifugio is the highest-elevation restaurant on the continent, at an incredible 12,456 feet. Warm and welcoming after a morning in deceptively cold temperatures (despite the sun, high elevation keeps the snow crisp and the mercury lower than it may appear). When I visit in January 2024, A-Basin is still floating outside the two-pass ski war raging across the rest of the country, before it is bought by Ikon Pass owners Alterra in February. Its independence and lack of pretentiousness has long been a source of fierce pride for locals. The culture is a quirky dichotomy: on one hand they call it “the legend” for its fabled big mountain expert terrain and steeps. An

area dubbed the “Steep Gullies” was once all backcountry terrain that was added within the ski area boundary in recent years and offers some of the steepest and most challenging in-bounds terrain in Colorado.

Alterra’s acquisition also gives me a key piece of bragging ammunition when I return to Australia. Did you ski A-Basin when it was still independent? I did, and it was dreamy.

On the other hand, it has a reputation for riotous and spontaneous après parties – which start and end in the parking lot just steps from the lifts. Sun spills into the lot through the afternoon, as hordes of skiedout riders drift toward their vehicles with no intention of going home immediately. Lounge chairs, beers, barbeques, and boom boxes appear and the area becomes “the Beach”. Many a reddened goggle tan shows up to work on Monday after a weekend at the Beach.

Vail

The origins of this baked-on ski bum culture are also legendary. A former US Army skier called Larry Jump – yep, his real name – was a statewide surveyor who had been hired by Colorado to scope out potential ski areas after WWII. He and two Olympic skiers on the US ski team opened the resort in 1946 with one mid-mountain rope tow. To get to the rope tow, skiers were chauffeured in a US Army troop carrier pulled uphill through the snow by a four-wheel drive. The opening date in 1946 makes it Colorado’s oldest ski resort. Adding to the appeal, A-Basin towers above a charming historic ski town called Frisco, population 3000. Silver and gold rooted it here in the mining days of the late 1800s. These days its major drawcard is as a basecamp of outdoor adventures. Fat bikers, hikers, campers and snowshoers thrive but skiing is the main game – it is affectionately dubbed the “Main Street of the Rockies” as it’s smack bang between six resorts including Breckenridge, Vail and Copper Mountain. As snowflakes float under lamp posts outside my window at Frisco Inn overnight, I can feel the town tightening its grip on my snow-addled soul. After my visit, Alterra Mountain Company acquires A-Basin and announces plans to bring it under the Ikon Pass. It’s unquestionably a boon for Australian and New Zealand visitors who come to the US wielding multi-resort passes. Plus, I have to hand it to Alterra – the company has a decent track record in preserving the uniqueness of resorts around the world while upgrading older facilities and investing profits back into the mountains. The cowboy powder haven of Steamboat in Colorado, the luxurious ski mecca of Deer Valley in Utah, and the wild southern steeps of Taos in New Mexico are three Ikon Pass examples in neighbouring states with vastly different – and awesome - vibes.

Whether you have skied Vail or not, you likely have heard of it, and possibly formed an impression of it. Such is the transcendent impact this mountain has had on ski culture throughout history. It’s the namesake of global ski giant Vail Resorts and its Epic Pass. The fourthlargest skiable area on the continent with 5,317 acres and 195 runs. And it’s the birthplace of the winningest Alpine skier in history – Mikaela Shiffrin, who has two Olympic Gold medals and 97 World Cups in her career, at just 29 years old. All of that should be reason enough for every skier to hit Vail at least once in their lifetime. Yet for contradictory reasons, some choose to avoid it. Social media lift lines plague ski resorts everywhere on busy weekends in Colorado, and no resort is immune. Midweek, the lines are nonexistent; but those who enjoy it are smart enough not to share on TikTok videos. The benefit of being at a larger resort is having the space and infrastructure to disperse them. The benefit of Vail specifically is being able to jump up and over multiple peaks to get to the far backside, where very few people venture. These are the Back Bowls, and these are what makes Vail legendary. When Vail follows the Colorado winter script (dumping overnight and bluebird by sunrise), the Back Bowls are the best place in the state to be. The early risers rush to claim first tracks in a skating, huffing, turnavoidant pack. Up another lift and straightline down the next. But soon, all at once, there’s no need to quarrel. Because the enormous Back Bowls reveal themselves and their jaw-dropping, endless terrain with powder enough for everyone. Ant-sized figures make S-curves across the horizon, choosing tree mazes on ShangriLa or rolling up and down a natural halfpipe on skiers’ right of China Bowl. Cloud 9 magnetises many to its gladed trees and fun-size bumps. Meanwhile, Steep & Deep is exactly what it sounds like – a shock re-entry out of the après and BBQ parties convening on the outdoor grills at Blue Sky Basin. This year, we visit between storms which means I miss reliving the waist-deep powder I’ve experienced on prior Vail trips, but instead stumble into pleasing new territory. Previously, the Back Bowls 147

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became a crusted-over nightmare within a day or two after snow, hardening as they faced the melting southern sun. These days, Vail sends groomer cats all the way over the backside to clear areas of soft corduroy at first light, with ungroomed glades and cliff options still available on either side. The daring can hit Dragon’s Teeth off China Bowl while cruisers in the same group can carve blue cords right next to them. Unlike other Colorado ski towns that emerged out of the mining boom, Vail was once cabbage and lettuce-farming land. The village was purpose-built to cater to skiers from its very inception when the mountain opened in 1962. Thus, the two base villages, Vail village and Lionshead (both have direct gondola access up the mountain), are walkable in ski boots and brimming with après options. A favourite for this writer is the Tavern on the Square at the base of the Arabelle hotel (try the Elk with barbeque sauce on the side). Luxury hotels like The Arabelle and The Hythe jostle with Aspen brands to claim the most highend ski accommodations in the country. And yet you’ll still run into all kinds of hardcore ski bums making their way up the valley, many who don peeling Gortex and care not for ski fashion but have eyes only for the Back Bowls. Aspen faithfuls love to undermine the purpose-built village but the answer by Vail locals is a good one. “Aspen is a real town 148

with fake people. Vail is a fake town with real people.” The truth is both mountains are awesome for their own unique qualities. If you don’t believe me, that’s just more powder to the people.

named in honour of predatory flying creatures. Grouse Mountain, Larkspur and Birds of Prey are the talons. The “Talon Challenge” is to ski all 14 black runs across the resort in a single day.

Beaver Creek

On my first day in Beaver Creek, we don’t bother glancing at the trail map and make our way up Grouse Mountain. This is the talon that accesses steep black and doubleblack expert terrain only. A gate at the top is like a red flag to a bull. Naturally we slide through it and hit the trees of Royal Elk Glade on the ski area boundary. It’s a mix of fear, thrill and joy as tall pines close in around me and then open up in wide-open powder meadows.

Beaver Creek may be named after the cute furry animals that inhabited the land before it was a ski resort and have a reputation as a holiday destination for the Housewives of Beverley Hills. But just like both those conniving creatures, the Beav has deceptively sharp teeth. Ski the Beav and you’ll come to understand why this mountain deserves more than a passing glance as you make your way down the valley from Vail. It boasts some of the steepest and most technically challenging runs in the nation. Birds of Prey drops 2,470 feet in 1.71 miles, with a heartstopping 45 percent pitch somewhere in the middle. Adjacent run Raptor was built in anticipation of the 2015 Women’s World Championship Races and saw the pros clocking speeds of 120km/h. Fair warning; it is a championship course, so its caretakers intermittently hose the course down with water. Making a turn on the resulting sheet ice can be like trying to find a fingernail grip on glass. The Beav is made up of three ridgelines running towards its base village in “talons”

Stone Creek Chutes boasts big cliff drops for skiers who really want to send it. Meanwhile Frontside Trees remain remarkably untouched on powder days as everyone rushes to the backside. A turnoff for beginners but a delight for those attacking the frontside with teeth. Speaking of attacking with teeth, Beaver Creek village is one place to splurge on your eat-out budget. First do so at Mediterranean restaurant Citrea, where Previous spread: Arapahoe Basin’s East Wall is a go-to for experts on a powder day. Photo: Lucas Herbert. Above: 20cms of cold Colorado snow in Arapahoe and we’re talking a skier’s dream. Photo: Ian Zinner. Right: Vail’s tree skiing in next level on a good powder day. Photo: Bo Bridges.

Richie Graham, loving life in Vail’s trees. Photo: Bo Bridges 149

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share plates of marinated beets, oozing mozzarella, lamb osso bucco and moreish woodfired flatbread will haunt you for months. Alternatively (or additionally) a dinner at historic farmhouse Beano’s Cabin is a unique highlight of a trip here. You reserve your spot, check in at the base of the mountain in the evening to be chauffeured uphill on a sleigh under moonlight. The best part is the lack of decision fatigue involved; first course is a warming bowl of soup with crusty bread and beyond that you simply choose from two options for each of three remaining courses of local Coloradan cuisine. The lack of decision fatigue could be the best part of Beaver Creek in general. It has some of the best grooming in the world, so corduroy stays fresh and soft if ever the snow is lacking. And when the storms come, the trees groan under the weight of powder for weeks afterwards. The mountain somehow gains 300 inches of snow and 300 days of sunshine every year. If you’re flying across the world to chase reliable conditions, skiing the Beav is a safe bet. Fort Collins While not technically a ski area, this Colorado mountain town should be on itineraries of adventurers looking to get off the beaten track. It’s a base camp for a variety of lesser-known and independent ski resorts in the north of the state including Echo Mountain, Loveland and Eldora. It’s also the gateway to Front Range 150

backcountry skiing around Cameron Pass, with the notorious bowls and chutes of Seven Utes Mountain, and on the doorstep of Rocky Mountain National Park. With the right safety gear, experience and map skills, you can enter new undiscovered worlds from Fort Collins. The whole area is a magnet for adrenaline seekers – if you need a day off skis, the best bike paths, trail running routes, river rafting and hiking in Colorado start here. The town itself is a hidden gem – an historic Western outpost with a charming walkable downtown area, the ideal stopover en route to the slopes from Denver airport and a lot cheaper than staying on snow. Healthy local food stands out here more than elsewhere

(the moreish brussels sprouts at café Ginger and Baker are in my top five veggie dishes ever). It’s also known as the craft beer capital of Colorado, with more than 21 craft breweries to rehydrate after a long day up in the mountains. This year, an unfortunate injury prevented my powder pilgrimage reaching into the untrodden backcountry of Colorado. That adventure we will save for another day. Nevertheless, our diversion to FoCo remains joyfully etched in my memories. Another Colorado legend to check out before it’s too late. Top: Plenty of room to move in the Vail’s China Bowl. Photo: Max Ritter. Bottom: Vail at night. Photo: Jack Affleck.

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Deep powder to play in. Peaks that touch the sky. Sunshine that ignites adventure, and unique towns you’ll never forget. Find out more about Colorado at COLORADO.COM.

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Chillfactor Picks A LOOK AT SOME OF THIS WINTER’S GEAR

Anon Sync Goggle The terrain-defining clarity of Perceive optics and the simplicity of M-Fusion for fast, easy lens changes. The Anon Sync Goggles offer the terrain defining-clarity of Perceive optics and the convenience of our M-Fusion magnetic latch system to secure and guide lenses into place. Full-perimeter venting ensures maximum airflow for a clear, fog-free view in all conditions. They are over-the-glasses compatible for wearing with eyeglasses and include a bonus lens for cloudy conditions plus a microfiber bag for storage and lens cleaning. RRP $299.99

Anon Windham WaveCel Helmet Leading safety features, a durable hardshell design, and one-hand fit adjustability for distraction-free comfort. Anon’s Windham WaveCel Helmet pairs everyday hardshell durability with the advanced impact protection of WaveCel technology. WaveCel is a collapsible cellular structure that lines the inside of the helmet. It’s designed to flex, crumple, and glide to reduce rotational and direct impact forces. A 360° Boa Fit System offers a quick, micro-adjustable fit with the turn of a dial, and the fidlock magnetic helmet strap buckle allows for easy one-hand operation, even with gloves. RRP $329.99

Dahu 01 Ski Boot Redefining the relationship between on-hill performance and comfort, the Dahu ski boot integrates a winter boot that is both protective & comfortable with a high performance 3-Piece shell. Awarded the Silver Medal by America’s Best Bootfitters, the Dahu 01 is not only the most comfortable boot you will ever try, it is also the easiest to enter & exit with their Corsair Entry. 100% Grilamid materials ensure there is no compromise on performance. RRP $1,399

Dynastar M Pro 100 Produced in France, the skis in the M-Pro range are traditional freeride skis incorporating a new structure that reinforces the front and rear rocker for even greater fun and easier pivoting without losing any power underfoot or compromising the renowned stability of the M-Pro range. The new M-Pro 100 Ti and M-Pro 94 models have been designed for intermediate to expert skiers and feature the eco-designed Hybrid Core 2.0 technology. The Hybrid Core 2.0 technology is found in a new wood layer design (placing them in three directions instead of just one: longitudinally, vertically, and transversally), to replace the mechanical properties provided by composite materials such as glued fiberglass. RRP $1,399 152

Giro Tenet MIPS Helmet Designed for all-mountain pursuits, the new Tenet features hybrid construction to deliver the lightness of the in-molded lower and the durability of the hard-shell upper. The result is comfort and mobility for multiple long seasons on the hill. Featuring Mips protective technology which can reduce rotational energy during certain impacts through the two-part construction. For adapting to changes in the weather, we integrate our adjustable vents to regulate your temp. The In Form 2 Fit System and our breathable Ionic Fleece, the Tenet lets you dial in your fit and comfort quickly. RRP $359.95

MT610G Personal Locator Beacon The MT610G is a super-compact, lightweight PLB, offering an impressive 7-year battery life and a 6-year warranty. Featuring an integrated 72 channel GPS receiver, zero warm-up time, high-intensity LEDs, IP68 Ingress Protection, and an inherently buoyant design, the MT610G has not compromised the safety features included. The MT610G has been designed, engineered, and manufactured in Australia, to provide the outdoor adventurer with a GPS PLB solution that is compact, easy-touse, and affordable. RRP $410

Lange Shadow All Mountain Ski Boot More power and more control with less energy. The Lange Shadow ski boots bring a new level of power transfer, vibration absorption and comfort to all-mountain skiing by amplifying your input to the boot through the mechanical advantage of its Dual Pivot and Suspension Blade technology. The boot’s clean, consistent flex is combined with increased shock absorption through the shell for enhanced snow feel and contact. Together with a 120 or 130-rated flex, this boot gives expert skiers every advantage for skiing any terrain on the mountain. At 97mm wide, our low-volume last complements the thermoformable liner for a comfortable performance fit. RRP $1149

Mammut Haldigrat Hooded Jacket Whether you’re in resort or exploring the backcountry, when you’re on the hunt for the perfect line, this hardshell’s got your back. The Haldigrat is light enough for the ascent and burly enough for the descent. Thanks to a soft, sustainable outer fabric made from durable post-consumer recycled nylon and a Drytech Pro Technology waterproof membrane. A free-ride inspired long cut offer laid back style loaded with features (and pockets). RRP $999.95

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CHILLFACTOR PICKS

Summit Stimson FUTURELIGHT™ Jacket The Summit Series Stimson Futurelight jacket is a Breathablewaterproof, seam-sealed 3L shell versatile piece ideal for backcountry tours and extended stays on the mountain. Its lightweight back panel and built-in venting allow for comfortable wear while carrying a heavy pack. Features include stretch powder skirt, and secure-zip pockets, attached, helmet-compatible hood with a bonded brim and riveted cord-lock adjustment system; Two-way, 5YKK centre front zip with an internal draft flap and laser-cut perforations at chin. RRP $1,100

Milo™ – The Action Communicator is the walkie-talkie reimagined It enables hands-free, multi-way, group voice conversation, allowing adventurers to speak while on the trails, slopes or water. No phones or Wi-Fi needed. The patented MiloNet network allows everyone in the group to talk at the same time. Attach Milo securely to your clothing or handlebar using one of the purpose-designed clips leaving your hands free. Milos create their own mesh network, so you don’t need Wi-Fi or a phone signal. The range between two Milos is 600 m (2000 feet) depending on the terrain. The MiloNet mesh network can extend that range when your group of three or more spreads out. RRP $399

Palladium 3.0 Mens Shell Snow Jacket The Palladium 3.0 Men’s Shell Jacket combines ultimate performance with low-volume design. And, the jacket is now made and retailed in Dermizax fabric The durable, 4-way stretch outer shell fabric is PFC-free and made from 94% recycled PET bottles. Windproof plus 20K waterproofing and 15K breathability, means maximum protection and comfort. Equipped with Recco technology, YKK zips, a snap away powder skirt, fixed hood, pit zips to dump heat and a freeride fit. Layer up with our Back Country Jacket for extra warmth on colder days. If you’re seeking a soft-shell that performs as hard as you do, this is it. All Technical outerwear : 100% PFC-free DWR coatings, 100% carbon neutral and XTM is a B Corp Certified business! RRP $499.99

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TWO OFF-PISTE MECCAS YOU DON’T WANT TO MISS Off-piste, less crowds, cheaper tickets and excellent powder is the magic combo we travel to find. In Switzerland’s Engelberg and Jungfrau regions these factors are off the charts and what’s more, they’re stunning destinations. Don’t take my word for it, here are 10 compelling reasons to pack your bags and see for yourself. IMAGES SUPPLIED BY © SWITZERLAND TOURISM 156

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ENGELBERG - TITLIS Longer Season Engelberg is one of Switzerland’s premier snow resorts with over 82 km of skiable terrain spanning three majestic mountains and a vertical drop of 2000m. With a charming town and abundant natural beauty facing northwards, it offers an especially long season with reliable stashes of powder to discover between mid-October to mid-May.

The Off-Piste With an impressive annual snowfall, Engelberg, (Little Canada) receives 53cm more snow than Zermatt and boasts about 50% more snowfall than Verbier during December alone. This is thanks in part to favorable weather conditions up on the 3062m Titlis Glacier. The resort’s vertical drop of 2000m, spanning from the 3020m summit to the 1003m base, offers a thrilling playground for advanced skiers and off-piste enthusiasts. As a haven for backcountry skiing, it is highly recommended to hire a guide to find the best of the area. The ‘Big Five’ off-piste descents are a must-try experience and include the 35-40-degree shoulder of Laub, as well as the exhilarating routes of Sulz, Steintäli, Steinberg, and Galtiberg.

Great Accessibility

Combine it with Lucerne

Engelberg offers excellent accessibility, allowing you to easily reach it from Zurich. In under 2 hours, you can conveniently travel here by rail from Zurich’s International Airport. Once you arrive, shuttle buses are available to seamlessly transport you between train stations, accommodation, and winter activities, all free of charge.

Engelberg’s proximity to the city of Lucerne, only 30km away, makes it an ideal place for a memorable ski trip. Lucerne is a stunning destination in its own right so consider additional days to explore it after your ski trip. Immerse yourself in Lucerne’s enchanting 14th-century Chapel Bridge, the oldest bridge in Europe. Wander through the captivating Old Town, featuring charming cobblestone streets and medieval architecture. Explore the quiet waters of Lake Lucerne on a relaxing cruise or delve into the fascinating exhibits at the Swiss Museum of Transport.

Dragon Mountain Mt Pilatus is a must-see attraction located just a short 10-minute bus ride from Lucerne train station. Hop aboard the panoramic gondolas that whisk you up to the mountain’s lookout points, offering stunning vistas perfect for capturing Instagram-worthy photos. Once there, try thrilling local activities such as sledding, snowshoeing, or even experience the adrenaline rush of the ‘Dragon Glider’ - a harnessed zipline ride. If you’re seeking a low-key adventure, Mt Pilatus offers three relatively easy 4km snowshoe trails between the Krienseregg and Frakmuntegg sections, and it’s an activity older kids and adults can do together. The mountain hosts a renowned red aerial ‘Dragon Ride’ cable car that takes you soaring to the summit at an impressive elevation of 2123m. At the summit of Mt Pilatus, you’ll discover a remarkable destination, featuring two exceptional hotels, so pop in for a cheeky drink here. The aptly named Hotel Bellevue offers unrivaled views, while the historic mountain Hotel Pilatus-Kulm, dating back to 1890, exudes a captivating charm. Foodies will appreciate diverse culinary offerings available on the mountain, ranging from traditional Swiss delicacies to regional and seasonal dishes, as well as yummy grills or simple bar meals. Families with young children will find an educational wonderland in PILU Land, complete with fire pits, picnic areas, and ample space for little ones to let off steam. 157

TWO OFF-PISTE MECCAS YOU DON’T WANT TO MISS

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THE JUNGFRAU REGION

THE JUNGFRAU REGION The Jungfrau region is a wonderful choice for skiers with ‘four snow resorts in one’ (Grindelwald, Wengen, Lauterbrunnen and Murren) and over 250 km of slopes to explore. For an unforgettable skiing experience in the heart of the Jungfrau, consider staying in the charming village of Mürren . This carfree village is very picturesque and provides a chilled setting where you can unwind and appreciate the breathtaking surroundings. At the base of the famous Mt Schilthorn, Mürren truly embodies the essence of Swiss paradise and is an experience that should not be missed.

Great Accessibility If you are coming from Zurich International airport , the journey takes just three hours by train to Lauterbrunnen via Bern and Interlaken Ost then switch to a cable car to Mürren for the final leg. with just three train changes. The train ride itself is magnificently scenic as it weaves through the Interlaken area, between Lake Thun and Lake Brienz climbing upwards into the Alps. It really is something special and you feel immersed in the natural beauty.

Challenging Runs There are plenty of opportunities in the Jungfrau for advanced skiing with thirty percent of combined terrain marked as advanced or black runs. Black runs are a combination of offpiste, freeride, and mogul sections so All-Mountain skis are 158

recommended. If you didn’t bring All Mountain skis from home, numerous rental stores are available with excellent quality equipment. One of the highlights of this ski area is the renown Lauberhorn Run. This exhilarating 4.4km descent takes you from the Wixi top chairlift all the way down to the charming village of Wengen. Or challenge yourself on the Slalom World Cup track, one of the steepest slopes of the area. I highly recommend hiring a local guide especially if it’s your first visit here. A knowledgeable guide will help you navigate the terrain and discover the best aspects and local hotspots around the mountains. Ski schools are available for ‘ski safaris’ to explore the area, including local restaurants as well as skiing the best slopes. During my own visit, I had the pleasure of embarking on a “ski safari” from Grindelwald to Wengen. This journey allowed us to indulge in an array of Swiss cuisines, featuring delectable cheeses, cakes, soups, and fondue. I wholeheartedly recommend this culinary adventure on skis, it’s a treat for your taste buds but also offers unrivaled views of the awe-inspiring Eiger and Jungfrau mountains. It’s an experience suitable for intermediate-level skiers or great for a non-powder skiing day. It’s worth noting that the ski pass includes train transport, enabling you to conveniently explore local charming villages of Wengen and Grindelwald during your stay in Mürren.

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Murren - Schilthorn: A Must-Visit Ski Area A visit to Mt Schilthorn (2970m) from Mürren village is incredible and not to be missed. It’s an experience to do with the whole family so set aside time to fully enjoy this breathtaking attraction. When you reach the summit of Schilthorn, you will instantly feel like you’ve stepped into a James Bond movie, and for good reason. Scenes from the iconic film “On Her Majesty’s Secret Service” were filmed here between October 1968 and May 1969, if you’re a Bond fan it’s instantly recognisable. As an added bonus, you can explore Spy World and the cinema, free of charge. This is a great option to keep in mind if the weather turns unfavorable. One of the highlights of Mt Schilthorn is Piz Gloria, the revolving restaurant that sits proudly on the summit. If you’d like panoramic views while you dine, it is highly recommended to book ahead to secure a window seat. However, please note that the lifts from the valley station to Schilthorn are currently being upgraded, which is a long-awaited and exciting improvement. As a result, certain sections of Schilthorn, such as the Thrill Walk at the Birg Station, will be closed from October 2024 to March 2025. Mt Schilthorn is renowned for its off-piste skiing, making it a favorite among advanced skiers. You can ski down from Mt Schilthorn but please note that it is a challenging run suitable for advanced skiers, particularly during blizzard conditions. The vertical drop here is an impressive 2,170m, with 58 km of accessible trails and the longest ski trail spanning 15km. Otherwise you can safely descend in the cable car back to Mürren after visiting the Cliff Walk at the middle station.

Winter Adventures Galore There is so much to do here on non-skiing days. For adrenaline-junkies, feel the rush as you soar 800m through the Alps on a thrilling zipline adventure. You can reach speeds of up to 84 km per hour and experience this exhilarating journey at the Snow Park in Grindelwald-First. Not every Swiss resort offers sledding, but this remarkable region boasts more than 20 long trails. Witness the incredible skill of local sledders as you venture down renowned tracks such as Big Pintenfritz, the longest run in the world, the Fox Run, and the Apollo Run. Experience the beauty of winter hikes against the backdrop of stunning views on over 100 km of trails specifically curated for this purpose. Explore hikes starting from Mürren, Grindelwald, and Mannlichen, and enhance your adventure with a one to seven-day hiking pass. This grants you access to groomed hiking trails with the convenience of lifted access.

Panoramic Views of the Roof of Europe Experience the breathtaking panoramic views of the Roof of Europe at the Jungfraujoch, the highest railway in the world. Whether you’re hiking, skiing, or snowshoeing in this region, the majestic peaks of Eiger, Monch, and Jungfrau will tower above you as you explore the charming villages while you’re shopping and dining. To see Mont Blanc with the naked eye from Mt Schilthorn is a magical experience for visitors. Make sure to seize the opportunity to check these incredible sights off your bucket list. 159

PROTECT OUR WINTERS AUSTRALIA ENJOYS SOLID GROWTH

Photo: Daygin Prescott

Protect our Winters Australia has had its biggest year yet in the fight to recognise the severe impact that climate change is having on Australian winter sports and the alpine environments. Over the past year, the organisation has grown from four volunteers to over 40, delivering several fundraising efforts over the 2023 winter season where we raised $65k. With this money, we have invested in a new climate change impact report in conjunction with the Australian National University’s Mountain Research Facility. The first of its kind, this report shows the at-risk nature of Australian winters and investigates the broad range of impacts that a lack of snow coverage will have on snow sports in Australia, the businesses that surround it and the broader regional communities that rely on snow run off. Australia’s snow sports industry is the largest in the world at direct and shortterm risk as a result of climate change. 160

What we call for is not only greater action at the community level when it comes to combatting our own carbon footprints, but also greater coordination to make government and society realise the substantial impact that climate change has the potential to have on our environment, livelihoods, and regional communities. Our vision is for a future where our alpine playground and the communities and businesses that depend on it still exist. Protect our Winters first and foremost is a community-based organisation. We are grounded in the team of individuals that support us to spread our message and develop new ideas to advocate for greater climate action. This exists in the Protect our Winters Jindabyne local alliance which we set up last year and will continue to run this year, but also exists in the communities built around ski lodges, university clubs, competitive snow-sports, local businesses, schools and so much more.

Through fundraisers, awareness-raising and having those conversations with the communities we’re all a part of, we can start to shift the dial in creating greater awareness of how critical climate action is to our mountains. In 2023, we delivered our biggest year yet. This year, we go further. Through fighting for cultural change in our community and raising awareness of climate change, lobbying government for greater recognition of its impacts on our communities, and partnering with businesses, we take steps towards protecting the unique alpine environment we love. Our goal this winter is to truly unite our community and the many organisations that are its building blocks to fight for more action against climate change. For that we need your help. By following us on social media, buying our merch, donating, volunteering your time or simply talking to the people around you, you help us in achieving our goals for the 2024 season and beyond.

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Arc’teryx Winter Film Tour Presents Warren Miller’s All Time THE ANNUAL FILM TOUR TO HERALD IN THE START OF THE SNOW SEASON. Bringing the local Australian ski community together is close to our heart. Come join us in the annual celebration of winter with the Warren Miller Tour. This year, in addition to the main feature from Warren Miller, we are adding to the entertainment with the addition of two Arc’teryx films, ‘Maven’ and ‘Convergence’, alongside the main feature. We delve deep into what makes winter so special as we share stories from local film makers Divya Gordon and Taylor Bennie-Faull. This will serve as the perfect side to the two-year party for Warren Miller’s 75 years of film making. Warren Miller’s ‘All Time’ is bringing 74 years of filmmaking reimagined to a theatre near you this May, and this season, it’s all about good turns and good

snow on good hills with good people. Narrated by Jonny Moseley, ‘All Time’ dives deep into elements that Warren himself first identified as the stuff of which snowy dreams are made. From the birth of ski towns like Sun Valley and Aspen to icons and innovators like the original hotdoggers, the film brings the best of seven decades along with humor and inspiration from today. ‘Maven’, set in the stunning NSW Main Range, showcases the trials and tribulations of a group of inspirational women who set out to explore their limits. Making history, this short documentary is the first all female cast and crew film in Australian adventure sport. It serves as motivation for all to engage in the natural world and to discover the untold stories and

unexplored paths of the the Australian backcountry. The Australian ski community spreads far beyond our borders and ‘Convergence’ is a vignette of people, places and experiences that breath life into this thriving community and the palpable feeling of connection that converges our worlds. Set in the heart of British Columbia, you can expect hard charging skiing alongside the stories of 3 locals who call these mountains home. Combined, we have an amazing 2.5 hours of entertainment in store for you and we can’t wait to share it. Beginning in May across 40+ locations Visit warrenmiller.com.au to find a show near you. 163

ARC’TERYX WINTER FILM TOUR PRESENTS - WARREN MILLER’S ALL TIME

Selected Movie Tour Dates Visit warrenmiller.com.au for more screening dates CANBERRA Dendy Cinema Saturday 11 May

GEELONG The Village Friday, 31, May

WOLLONGONG Gala Twin Cinema Sunday, 12, May

SYDNEY INNER WEST Dendy Newtown Friday, 31, May

SYDNEY EAST The Ritz Wednesday, 15, May

ADELAIDE Regal Theatre Saturday, 1, June

SYDNEY NORTH The Orpheum Friday, 17, May

PERTH Luna Leederville Friday, 7, June

SYDNEY NORTHERN BEACHES Glen Street Theatre Saturday, 18, May

BRISBANE Five Star Cinema New Farm Friday, 7, June

SYDNEY EAST The Ritz Sunday, 19, May

JINDABYNE Jindabyne Cinema Thursday, 13, June

MELBOURNE Rivoli Thursday, 23, May

BRIGHT Sun Bright Cinema Saturday, 8, June

MELBOURNE Rivoli Friday, 24, May

BRIGHT Sun Bright Cinema Sunday, 9, June

MELBOURNE Rivoli Sunday, 26, May

BRISBANE Five Star Cinema New Farm Sunday, 9, June

MELBOURNE Rivoli Sunday, 26, May

CENTRAL COAST Avoca Beach Theatre Sunday, 16, June

HOBART The Peacock Wednesday, 29, May

GOLD COAST Hota Thursday, 20, June

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GRAND PRIZE Elevate your New Zealand winter adventure with 2 x 4-run Southern Lakes Heliski experiences for you and a friend. Valued at $3000+

Volkl: Take home your choice of his or her Volkls this winter (includes bindings)

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TERMS & CONDITIONS Offer is available for Australia and New Zealand residents only. If you are already subscribed, we will extend your subscription by the additional length purchased. Postal orders can take up to 6 weeks to process-for faster turnaround, order online (subscribe.chillfactor.com). For full terms and conditions, visit subscribe.chillfactor.com * Values are estimated and in AUD

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WINTER ESCAPADES AT BIG WHITE SKI RESORT WORDS BY WENDY LAW

Nestled amidst the breathtaking landscapes of British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley, Big White Ski Resort stands tall at 2,319 m (7,608 ft), a beacon of adventure for winter enthusiasts. Here, amidst the snowcapped mountains, I was greeted with a diverse array of experiences that extended far beyond my expectations. I floated above the mountain’s infamous champagne powder through the iconic snow ghosts and glades, snaked through forest trails in a heartpounding snowmobiling tour, and indulged in culinary delights at various charming après ski venues in the village. Big White provided me with an unforgettable experience that ignited my passion for thrilling outdoor adventures. Exploring the Slopes: A Playground of Possibilities Big White’s slopes offer a tapestry of terrain and caters to skiers and snowboarders of all skill levels. As I traversed the vast and variable landscapes, I was met with a sense

for my whole crew with varying skill levels. My beginner friends found solace in gentle, rolling hills and wide-open groomed runs, where they could build their confidence and hone their technique in a supportive and encouraging environment.

of excitement and anticipation. From gentle groomers to challenging steeps, there was plenty to explore and to cater 166

The intermediate riders, including myself, revelled in the

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challenge of navigating winding trails and undulating terrain, where every turn and tree run through the Black Forest presented a new opportunity for exploration and discovery. On clear and powdery bluebird days, we shifted seamlessly from the top of the Alpine T bar at an elevation of 2,285 m (7,497 ft) through the mountain’s iconic snow ghosts and North America’s best glades, which captivated the senses and nourished the soul. For more experienced riders, Big White’s advanced terrain provides steep chutes, rocky outcrops, and hidden powder stashes. From challenging mogul fields to technical tree runs, the possibilities are as endless as they are exhilarating. For adrenaline-seeking snow enthusiasts, TELUS Park, Big White’s terrain park provides the perfect canvas for riders to unleash their creativity and showcase their talents. For beginner park riders like me, the park offered a welcoming environment to hone my skills and build my confidence. Patient instructors are also on hand to offer guidance and encouragement, helping riders navigate their first jumps and master the art of freestyle skiing and snowboarding. Meanwhile, seasoned veterans can push themselves to new heights on the park’s more advanced features. With massive jumps and technical rails, the park provides the perfect canvas for riders to unleash their creativity and showcase their talents. While testing out my skills and limits in the terrain park, I saw more than just a collection of jumps and rails. It’s a community, a gathering place where riders come together to share their passion for the sport. Whether it’s cheering on fellow riders from the sidelines or trading tips and tricks with friends, I witnessed a sense of camaraderie that permeates the atmosphere, uniting riders of all ages and backgrounds. As the sun set each evening and the lights came on, the park took on a magical quality, its features were illuminated against the backdrop of the starry night sky. It gave us a great opportunity to experience the thrill of night skiing and snowboarding, making the most of British Columbia’s best snow under the twinkling lights.

Beyond the Slopes: Adventures Await Venturing off-piste, I embarked on a snowmobiling tour that delved deep into the backcountry wilderness. Led by an experienced guide, the excursion offered a glimpse into the untouched beauty of the surrounding landscape. With my helmet secured and goggles in place, I started the engine and felt the adrenaline course through my veins. With a gentle push of the throttle, we rode across the pristine snow, leaving behind a trail of powder in our wake. The valley landscape unfolded in a dazzling display of natural beauty. The towering evergreens covered with snow and the Big White peaks pierced the clear blue sky. As we delved deeper into the wilderness, the terrain became more rugged, and the challenges more exhilarating. We navigated winding trails that snake through the forests and tackled steep ascents and thrilling descents. With each twist and turn, I felt the rush of freedom in my flushed cheeks and took in the serenity of our surroundings. This page: A classic Big White powder day, February 29t 2024. Photo: Geoff Holman 167

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Beyond snowmobiling, Big White Ski Resort also offers a plethora of activities to captivate visitors of all ages and interests. Patrons can explore the winter wonderland at a slower pace by strapping on a pair of snowshoes. They can ice skate at Big White’s outdoor skating rink - Canada’s highest outdoor skating rink. Experience the thrill of sliding down snow-covered slopes in an inflatable tube at the Tube Park. Embark on an unforgettable adventure through the snowy wilderness with a dog sledding tour. Or snuggle up under a blanket and take a scenic sleigh ride through the winter landscape. Whether you’re seeking adventure, relaxation, or simply a chance to connect with nature, Big White has something for everyone to enjoy.

Après-Ski Delights: Unwinding in Style Every night, after the sun set behind the mountains, there was a myriad of village venues to choose from to indulge in the après ski scene. Kelly from Sasquach Sushi spoiled my tastebuds with uniquely flavoured rolls, tuna tataki, and sashimi salad. The modern Japanese flavours of Sasquach paired beautifully with the cozy and vibrant environment to make this the perfect après experience. While venturing into Underground Pizza the next night, John and Ana greeted me with the warmest of Big White charm and hospitality. They invited me to sit at the infamous ‘locals table’ where we shared artisanal pizzas and listened to stories from patrons who called the mountain home. On Thursdays, be sure to toast to a day well spent and belt out your best Karaoke tunes at the biggest weekly night in town at BullWheel Gastro Family Pub. A welcoming atmosphere for all who want the cozy ambience of a mountain lodge and delicious comfort food. Every Saturday at 9:00 pm, Big White puts on a dazzling display of fireworks that light up the night sky, enhancing the mountain’s magical atmosphere. Whether I wanted to indulge in classy gourmet cuisine or smash some ski shots with my mates, there was a diverse array of après options for me in this alpine paradise.

Embracing Winter’s Charms: A Conclusion The greatest gift that I received from my time at Big White, was a sense of community and shared bond with fellow adventurers who, like me, were drawn to the mountain in search of something more. Whether swapping stories by the fireplace over a hot chocolate or cheering each other on from the sidelines, I found solace in knowing that I was part of something so special and greater than myself, a tribe united by our love for outdoor adventure. As I packed my bags and bid farewell to Big White, I carried with me fond memories of blissful sessions floating through the snow and breathtaking vistas. I discovered that this special place wasn’t just another vacation destination, but a sacred space to renew my sense of purpose, expand my comfort zone, and live life to the fullest, one magical tree run at a time. Left: A day to remember in January 2025. Photo: Geoff Holman. Right: Big White scenes. Photos: Wendy Law.

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Martin Longhitano putting the 20-year-old Dynastar twin-tips through their paces 170

JIB LEAGUE MARTIN LONGHITANO BREAKS OUT THE OLD SCHOOL SKIS FOR FREESKIING’S NEWEST COMP WORDS BY REGGAE ELLISS PHOTOS BY ALEX JEYNES

Jib League is an alternative freeski “competition” that kicked off last winter that has no judges, no particular format and was founded by pro skiers James “Woodsie” Woods, Øystein Bråten and Ferdinand Dahl. In its inaugural year the events were all held in Europe, but this year the second event was held in Sugar Bowl in California with Innsbruck in Austria hosting the first event before the series wrapped in mid-April with a stop in Myrkdalen, Norway. The Jib League’s process is simple. There is an open day anyone can enter with skiers hitting the park in a jam session watched by the founders. Seven skiers are chosen from the open session to join 15 invited skiers for the pro sessions which involve three different sessions

over three days on three different elements. The pro sessions are filmed and screened at a local venue that night, the skiers voting for who they thought was the best skier on the day. The skier with the most votes across all three sessions wins. Perisher skier Martin Longhitano took time out from his annual guiding gig in Italy and headed to Innsbruck in February for the first event with a pair of 2002 Dynastar Concept twin-tips skis over his shoulder. He progressed through the open day to the pro sessions where he finished fourth overall after the three days. It seems the 20-year-old skis didn’t hinder his performance. “I found the skis in the Jindy Op shop,”

Martin told Chillfactor. “They were the skis used by the generation of skiers I looked up to as a kid. They’re lots of fun but very different to a modern ski. The dimensions are 103/72/95 and they have a very light swing-weight. I thought Jib League was the perfect event to use the old school twin tips.” It is early days, but there is talk of the Jib League potentially heading to the southern hemisphere with Cardrona a likely venue. But who knows, it’s an event an Australian resort could easily host. “I have mentioned it,” Martin said. “It would be amazing.” There you go Aussie resorts. Get on to Woodsie and throw your hat into the ring. 171

JIB LEAGUE - MARTIN LONGHITANO BREAKS OUT THE OLD SCHOOL SKIS FOR FREESKIING’S NEWEST COMP

Martin’s creative skiing in Innsbruck’s Nordkette Park saw his fellow skiers rank him 4th overall in threesession final. 172

It’s more than just skiing.... It’s a perpetual adrenaline rush, It’s the untouched canvas of backcountry slopes, It’s personalised terrain, tailored to your ability, It’s fueling up with 360° mountain panoramas, It’s just you, your crew, and a seasoned guide, It’s the climax of an epic week in New Zealand, It’s your own private charter heli-ski.

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FLYING HIGH WORDS BY TUCKER PATTON & TONY HARRINGTON PHOTOS BY TONY HARRINGTON

I caught up with Tucker Patton, the owner of Triple Point Expeditions in Palmer, Alaska during the 2024 heliseason. We first met 15 years ago at the Points North Heli operation in Cordova when he was assigned to my group as our guide for a trip I was doing at the time with Aussie Olympians Jono Brauer and Craig Branch for Chillfactor and have been fortunate to work with him many times since then. He’s a smart operator and great company and this was my first time seeing him at the helm of his own heli-operation. Day in, day out there’s a myriad of questions the clients pepper Tucker and his team with; “What’s the weather doing, what’s the snow doing, what are we going to get to ski on?” And eventually everyone asks (probably as they reconsider their life choices and the desk job they are about to head back to…) “so, how did you get into this business?” Tucker laughs heartily and says, “My answer is probably the same one you’d get if you asked any guide. We just want to ski!” “It started with an early introduction to travel, experiences and a love of surfing, skiing and being outside as a child. I studied business at college, achieved a degree and during that process I picked up an entrepreneurship. They said, “What are you excited about?” and my answer was “I have this idea of starting an adventure travel company.” I didn't have any money, I didn't have any clients and I didn't know how to do it but that was the idea that stuck in my mind.” “I wrote a business plan with these contingencies and I had to go and figure it all out. I found myself in New Zealand, South America, Japan and Antarctica – doing all the things I loved to do surfing, fishing and skiing. The original 174

idea for my own business probably started as a concept when I was 18, and maybe even earlier, but it hadn't manifested itself into a clear vision at that point. And then once I got into it, I thought, ‘this is crazy... I can't believe this could actually be possible. To travel and do all the things that I've been dreaming about – and make it my life.” “Alaska has been the one constant in my life for the last 20 years. It was one of those places that I just knew I was always going to go back to. No question. I realised I was going to base my season around this place and work everything else in my life around it. Once I got to the point where I was ready to really try to make my business dream happen, I said to myself “I'm going to focus on one thing and I'm going to put everything into it I can.” It was 15 years of work to get to the point where I was even ready to step off and say, “I don't know everything, but I know enough that I want to try”. “I was also just newly married. [My wife] Molly was supportive and said, “you need to go and do it”. So, it got real and I started. I approached it by putting myself in the guest's shoes in every aspect and thinking about how I could do it best, how I could create something unique and drawing on all those pieces of my experiences from over the years.” “Running a heli ski operation is all about challenges. It's continually figuring out problems. It's running through walls. I don't think I could do it without starting at the bottom where I washed dishes and learned to refuel helicopters, progressed into following and guiding and literally did every role. It was important to me as I worked up the original feasibility and business plan that I had a clear grasp on each role and how it’s done. I took it to the level that I would work construction in summers to understand building concepts and kept taking classes and courses to fill gaps in my knowledge about snow science and weather. It was a commitment to the process so that if Left: 1.Pat McCormick, Tom Willmott and Tucker Patton assessing snow pack and weather to lock in the best zone for the day. 2. Marc Kerrest gives the thumbs up – the grin says it all. 3. Spoiled for choices. Where to next? 4.Tucker Patton realising a 20 year dream. Right: Heli guide Chris Marshall in the office. 175

FLYING HIGH

the opportunity presented itself to build this operation I’d been dreaming about – I would be ready. It was a commitment to working continually towards that goal.” “There's a tonne of moving parts in a heli-ski operation. Everything has to be dynamic, just like skiing itself. You have to continually make clear and detailed plans and be ready to shift and change them up when weather or logistics or any number of factors can throw it all up in the air.” “What we get to take our clients out to ski is based around two key things what the mountains will give you and what the snow-pack is doing. We’re always watching the weather, we're always watching the snow. There's no one size fits all, but we’re going to make it as perfect as we can for the guests on every run with what we have.” “When booking a heli ski trip, my advice is that the ideal scenario (and this isn't marketing) is to pull together eight people and buy it outright - then it's just you and your buddies in a private ship. The next best would be a group of four and then you have a guide and it's essentially you roll as a semi-private. If you come up as an individual, we’ll work to fit you with the right group, so you have a great time. What’s really important to us is that we want the right people coming on the right weeks with the right expectations and the right group dynamic.” And Tucker’s closing thoughts, “To me, Alaska is the pinnacle of skiing, and I would take one day in Alaska over a week anywhere else. There's no place in the world to ski like here, the feeling simply can't be replicated anywhere else. In my opinion it's the ultimate ski destination on the planet”. Which is probably why he’s built his life around it. If you’re curious, maybe you should think about joining him sometime.

Right: Countless hours of strategy goes into giving clients the best turns of their lives. Monika Little enjoying the rewards. 176

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