Vertical Life #46

CLIMBING MAGAZINE

AUTUMN 2024 • ED46 • AU/NZ

REEL ROCK 18 SPEED CLIMBING IN A WAR ZONE IN MALLORCA WITH ANGIE SCARTH-JOHNSON JAPAN’S MT MIZUGAKI AND A FREE ASCENT IN THE ANDES

HUMP OF TROUBLE. TOM O'HALLORAN ON HIS SEVEN-YEAR PROJECT

RRP AU$13.95/NZ$13.95

THE MENTAL GAME. Q&A WITH HAZEL FINDLAY MAKING HISTORY. AUSSIE KRYSTLE WRIGHT WINS AT RED BULL ILLUME

PLUS: EXPLORING FROG BUTTRESS | WA’S LONGEST HIGHLINE | MIKL LAW ON CLIMBING IN THE 1970S | AORAKI IN A DAY | BETA & BREW

Soria Long Bra Women’s, Gamma Lightweight Short Women’s

Alannah Yip (she/her) Olympian, Arc’teryx Athlete

Squamish, British Columbia, Canada Skwxwu7mesh Territory

TENTH TIME’S A CHARM

WWW.LASPORTIVA.COM.AU

8

AUTUMN 2024

AUTUMN 2024 VERTICAL LIFE IS PUBLISHED QUARTERLY WINTER/SPRING/SUMMER/AUTUMN/ AUSTRALIAN MADE. AUSTRALIAN PRINTED. AUSTRALIAN OWNED. EDITORS

Editor: Wendy Bruere Gear and coffee editor: Sule McCraies wendy@verticallifemag.com

DESIGN

Marine Raynard marine@adventureentertainment.com

ADVERTISING

Zac Merrion zac@adventureentertainment.com +61 499 661 101

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Kyle Addy, Wendy Bruere, Daniel Butler, Hazel Findlay, Mikl Law, Doug McConnell, Sule McCraies, Alastair McDowell, Tom O’Halloran, Allie Pepper, Angie ScarthJohnson, Jeremy Shepherd, Louise Shepherd, Krystle Wright.

PHOTOGRAPHY

Christian Adam, Kyle Addy, Jared Anderson, Vince Anderson,Genís Zapater Bargués, Andrea Cossu, Matt Groom, Matty Hong, Cheyne Lempe, Brecon Littleford, Brett Lowell, Sule McCraies, Alastair McDowell, Nathan McNeil, Caitlin Schokker, Jeremy Shepherd, Drew Smith, Kamil Sustiak, Yui Takahashi, Claire Williams, Krystle Wright.

CREDITS IMAGE

Jared Tyerman working "Uniquely Dangerous" (27) in the Blue Mountains, with Frothy Thomson & Simmo Oppo. Last attempt before the sun set. Image by Jared Anderson.

ON THE COVER Angie Scarth-Johnson deep water soloing in Mallorca, Spain. Shot by Matty Hong while filming “Yeah Buddy”, for the upcoming Reel Rock 18.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT IMAGE

The evening view from Frog Buttress looking towards the Fassifern Valley glowing down below. Image by Nathan McNeil.

PUBLISHER

Toby Ryston-Pratt Founder & CEO Adventure Entertainment.

ABN: 79 612 294 569

SUBSCRIPTIONS

subscribe.verticallifemag.com.au E magazines@adventureentertainment.com P: 02 8227 6486 PO Box 161, Hornsby, NSW, 1630

COPYRIGHT

The content in this magazine is the intellectual property of Adventure Entertainment Pty Ltd. It must not be copied or reproduced without the permission of the publisher.

DISCLAIMER

Rock climbing and other activities described in this magazine can carry significant risk of injury or death.

Undertake outdoor activity only with proper instruction, supervision, equipment and training. The publisher and its servants and agents have taken all reasonable care to ensure the accuracy of the information contained in this publication and the expertise of its writers. Any reader attempting any of the activities described in this publication does so at their own risk. The publisher nor its servants or agents will be held liable for any loss, injury or damage resulting from any attempt to perform any of the activities described in this publication. All descriptive and visual directions are a general guide only and not to be used as a sole source of information. Climb safe

Verticallifemag.com.au

VerticalLifeMag

VerticalLifeMag

AUTUMN 2024 9

CONTENTS AUTUMN 2024. ED46. AU/NZ

36

50

IN FOCUS

50

46

WA’S LONGEST HIGHLINE

Spectacular photos from Jeremy Shepherd tell the story of the mammoth team effort it took to rig a record-breaking line through the sky.

36

REEL ROCK 18

Angie Scarth-Johnson takes on deep water soloing with climbing legend Hazel Findlay for Yeah Buddy, while journalist Matt Groom braves bombs in Ukraine to film Climbing Never Die.

62

56

THE MENTAL GAME WITH HAZEL FINDLAY

Get bolder with Hazel’s performance hacks to enhance your climbing mindset

46

56

SEVEN YEAR CHALLENGE

Hump of Trouble might be Australia’s hardest climb. Tom O’Halloran writes about the years it took him to conquer the route.

62

AORAKI IN A DAY

Alastair McDowell rediscovers a love of the mountains in this epic one day mission.

10 AUTUMN 2024

74

PLUS

Subscribe & get a FREE passage dinnerware set from Sea to Summit! (RRP $49.99)

32

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT OF COUNTRY Vertical Life acknowledges that we live, work, recreate and climb on stolen land, and that sovereignty was never ceded.

THE CRACK: KRYSTLE WRIGHT WIN MAKES HISTORY

THE USUALS:

12. Editor’s Note 14. Gallery 18. Read Watch Listen 28. Getting To Know Doug McConnell

We acknowledge the Traditional Custodians across Australia and Aotearoa, and pay our respects to Elders past, present and emerging. We recognise the continuing connection of all First Nations peoples to Country and Culture across all lands and waterways since time immemorial, and reaffirm our commitment to reflection, reconciliation and solidarity.

Issue #46 of Vertical life was printed on Wangal Country.

FEATURES: 36. Reel Rock 18 46. Seven years on Hump of Trouble 50. WA's longest highline 56. The mental game with Hazel Findlay 62. Aoraki in a day

BETA:

20. Local Lore: Frog Buttress 24. Updates from Altitude 32. How I Got The Shot with Krystle Wright 68. From the Archives: Fuddy Duddy 71. Tale of Whoa 76. Gear 78. Field Tested 81. Beta & Brew

81

AUTUMN 2024 11

EDITOR’S NOTE

TURNING IMPOSSIBLE INTO

Possible

As 2024 gets underway and any half baked January 1 resolutions are thankfully long forgotten, this issue of Vertical Life delves into different ways people chase their goals and what that means to them.

New Year resolutions are often unrealistic. I mean, I’m not going to magically will myself into being unafraid of falling just because a new year has ticked over, or stop eating chocolate overnight (not with a multi-year addiction under my belt).

But in this issue we look at the long process of doing something incredible. There are a lot of ambitions explored and processes unwound.

Tom O’ Halloran writes about the seven years (yep, SEVEN YEARS!) he spent projecting what may be Australia’s hardest route, Hump of Trouble. By the time he sent it, he wasn’t even bothered by the grade.

It’s probably around a 36, but remains officially ungraded. When Tom sent me his article, I thought omitting the grade was deliberate…

Nope, turns out it just didn’t register as important anymore.

Jeremy Shepherd details how he came to be involved in the gigantic team effort it took to set WA’s longest highline. Allie Pepper gets into the details of the training and teamwork it takes to keep her attempt to climb all 14 of the 8,000m peaks without supplemental oxygen on track.

The idea of pushing ourselves further than we thought possible is all backed up in a Q&A with Hazel Finday on the mental game. She discusses how to hone mindset for performance, and delves into just why we need to develop psychological skills for climbing, not just physical skill.

Speaking of Hazel Findlay, in our Reel Rock feature we hear from Angie Scarth-Johnson on what it was like to try deep water soloing for the first time in Mallorca with Hazel. Even for a seasoned climber like Angie, new experiences bring new challenges. Catch their full story in Yeah Buddy.

We also chat to producer Matt Groom about filming Climbing Never Die in Ukraine, and why traveling to an active war zone to tell a story about speed climbing is the most important thing he’s ever done.

VL #46 is all about doing big things, new things, hard things… with all the work and focus that it takes along the way to get there. It’s

12 AUTUMN 2024

LOOK HOW FAR YOU’VE COME! GLANCING DOWN FROM THE TOP OF PITCH 2 ON BUNNY BUCKET BUTTRESS (18) IN THE BLUE MOUNTAINS. ONLY SIX MORE PITCHES TO GO.

inspiring—not in a soon-to-be-forgotten New Year resolution way, but in a way that examines how to turn a wild dream into reality.

This, incidentally, was also how I felt about officially stepping into the editor role here at VL. The new challenge initially looked enormous, but it slowly all came together to bring you the mag you’re now clutching in your calloused, chalky little mitts.

I hope you enjoy reading it as much as I enjoyed leading the process of pulling it all together. And remember, if Tom can climb a 36, Allie can attempt a mountaineering record, Jeremy can help string a 520-metre highline, and yours truly can get a magazine ready by deadline (just)—you too can make the impossible possible!

—Wendy Bruere, Editor

GALLERY

WHILST BIG WALLING ISN’T REALLY A THING IN SOUTH EAST QLD, IT DOESN’T MEAN YOU CAN'T HAVE SOME FUN IN A PORTALEDGE ANYWAY. PICTURED HERE IS SCOTT BRAITHWAITE SETTING UP A PORTALEDGE CAMP OUT FOR BUDDING YOUNG ROCK CLIMBERS TO ENJOY THE BEAUTY OF MOTHER NATURE & EXPERIENCE A NIGHT OUT ON A CLIFF AT BROOYAR, QLD. PHOTO BY NATHAN MCNEIL.

14 AUTUMN 2024

ISSUE 46 | VERTICALLIFEMAG.COM

ANGE MALYSHEVA ON PITCH 4 OF TRAD CLASSIC SAMARKAND (25). HER FACE MAY NOT SHOW IT, BUT APPARENTLY SHE'S HAVING LOADS OF FUN. PHOTO BY JARED ANDERSON.

JACQUES BEAUDOIN ON THE 63M TRAD CLASSIC, SACRED GROUND (23), BLUE MOUNTAINS. PHOTO BY CLAIRE WILLIAMS.

AUTUMN 2024 15

GALLERY

16 AUTUMN 2024

TIM WINTERFLOOD MAKING MOVES ON THE CLASSIC SINGLE FEMALE LAWYER (V6) DURING A BOULDERING TRIP TO NORTH BLACK RANGE, NEAR CANBERRA. PHOTO BY CAITLIN SCHOKKER.

Photo Credit: Jamie Parker

ADVENTURE LIKE WE DO!

BIGGEST RANGE, BEST BRANDS, UNRIVALLED SERVICE

PRICE MATCH GUARANTEE FREE SHIPPING OVER $79

’s a i l a r t s See Asut Range of Large bing Gear Clim

ORDER TRACKING 80 DAY RETURNS

wildearth.com.au

ADVENTURE NOW, PAY LATER!

STORE LOCATOR: 25 Central Dr, Burleigh Heads QLD Skygate Home & Life, 30 The Circuit, Brisbane

READ WATCH LISTEN With Daniel Butler

This issue we say goodbye to reviewer Araminta McLennan, who we were lucky enough to have Reading, Watching and Listening her way through the finest climbing content she could find for the last two years. She is putting the pen down for a little while, to focus on preparation for outdoor adventures in Canada and the US. Sad though we are to see Minty move on, we are also excited to introduce new reviewer Daniel Butler, a Sydney-based trad climber and general outdoor enthusiast. to the outdoors, the main limitations to finding freedom in outdoor pursuits is the possession of specific skill sets, such as navigation, selecting equipment, climbing, camping and more.

One of the key challenges with writing instructional literature is identifying a target audience without reducing your market too substantially. It is both a strength and a weakness of Freedom of the Hills, that the authors have seemingly chosen not to identify a target audience. The book can be picked up and enjoyed equally by hikers, rock and ice climbers, big wall climbers and mountaineers alike. It is accessible for all levels of experience, from never having set foot in the outdoors to seasoned alpine experts.

The book takes readers all the way from explaining how to tie a figure 8 knot, to the use of copperheads (a highly specific, aid only, piece of climbing equipment). This can mean that it is much better if you pick and choose the chapters (and indeed sub-chapters) which are relevant to you, rather than attempting to read all 596 pages from cover to cover.

Read

FREEDOM OF THE HILLS

BY THE MOUNTAINEERS Initially authored in 1960 by The Mountaineers, an American alpine club, the instructional book is a mainstay of the bookshelves of rock climbers and mountaineers worldwide.

Referred to by Conrad Anker as “the definitive guide to mountains and climbing”, the book is currently in its 9th edition, with 28 chapters covering everything from off-season training to expedition climbing and rescue scenarios.

The title is a reference to the medieval honour of “Freedom of the City” which granted a serf the right to roam the city as a free man. In modern times, and particularly with reference 18 AUTUMN 2024

One characteristic of this book is that many of the chapters, particularly those discussing gear, are quite dated. Can you blame them? The first edition of this book was released 29 years before the first handheld GPS unit (the Magellan NAV 1000), which was over 20cm tall, could store a maximum of 100 waypoints, weighed 700g and cost almost USD 3,000.

Since then, we now have freely available phone apps (such as Gaia) which are many times more powerful and instructive.

However, I found the more nostalgic content gave the book some character. Indeed, it is often good to understand the older methods should our modern techniques and equipment fail.

Freedom of the Hills is a great book for any climber, hiker or mountaineer looking to develop the skills needed to safely enjoy themselves in the outdoors. It is a valuable resource to learn about the methods used in both advanced and more moderate scenarios in the mountains.

ISSUE 46 | VERTICALLIFEMAG.COM

Watch RACE TO THE SUMMIT It is a well known mountaineering adage that “speed is safety” in alpinism.

However, there is a critical point at which going fast starts to introduce its own dangers. Released in 2023, Race to the Summit explores the achievements of Ueli Steck and Dani Arnold, who became experts in the art of speed alpinism.

Climbing as a sport has traditionally developed as an underground culture which trod carefully to avoid the spectacle of the media and mass publicity.

In a world where the general population assessed sporting performance by “how high”, “how far”, “how fast”, the difficulty of a climbing route or indeed a mountaineering route was not given much merit. In response to

this, Ueli Steck became known for his aggressively public, high speed ascents of some of the largest and most difficult peaks around the world.

having a high risk solo sport interfacing with the general media and public opinion.

Throughout Ueli’s life he traded speed records with fellow Swiss mountaineer Dani Arnold, a rivalry which spun into drama as it entered the public sphere.

This is a particularly interesting watch for climbers and mountaineers interested in how the definition of ‘elitism’ in climbing has changed in the modern world.

The film questions the impact of social media on climbing and the effects of

Streaming on Netflix

Listen

BAFFLE DAYS PODCAST: CLIMBER’S DIRTY TRICKS? YAY OR NAY Aid climbing is a form of climbing where climbers use their specialised climbing gear to assist them in progressing up the route. This form of climbing is now largely historical and is less commonly practiced in modern climbing.

However, with the advances in technology such as highly sticky climbing rubber on shoes, portable fans used to dry critical holds and knee pads which make kneebars significantly more comfortable, climbers are

pushing the limits more and more.

Could we be leaning on the progression of these technologies too much? Are we entering into a new form of aid climbing?

From stick clips through to rubber heel spurs, this podcast discusses where the line is between what is and isn’t acceptable at the crag.

This episode, the Baffle Days team is joined by Helen Day and Lee Cujes who

are both highly experienced climbers who have had a front seat for the changes in the modern climbing ethics.

With a dose of Australian climbing history and a serving of humour, this was an enjoyable podcast to listen to.

And at just over an hour long, it is a perfect choice for the drive to the mountains or commute to work.

Available on the Baffle Days website

ABOUT THE REVIEWER: Daniel is a Sydney based outdoor enthusiast who spends his free time rock climbing, cave diving and planning mountaineering escapades. Daniel has climbed and dived across Australia and New Zealand with a particular focus on traditional climbing.

Somewhat ironically, Daniel spends his weekdays working as an insurance broker.

AUTUMN 2024 19

LOCAL LORE

FROG BUTTRESS AND THE SCENIC RIM WORDS BY KYLE ADDY

GENEVIEVE FORSHAW ON IMPULSE (24). PHOTO VINCENT TRAN, SUIKA STUDIOS.

20 AUTUMN 2024

ISSUE 46 | VERTICALLIFEMAG.COM

WELCOME TO OUR LOCAL LORE COLUMN, WHERE WE DROP A PIN ON THE CLIMBING MAP AND ASK LOCALS TO GIVE US THE BETA. FROM LOCAL CLIMBING LEGENDS AND LORE TO MUST-DOROUTES AND HISTORICAL DEEP DIVES, WE’RE LETTING OUR FAVOURITE LOCALS LOOSE ON THESE PAGES TO TELL US HOW WE SHOULD BE SPENDING OUR TIME IN THEIR BACKYARDS.

KYLE ADDY ON BARBWIRE CANOE (25). PHOTO BY SANDY ADDY.

QUEENSLANDER KYLE ADDY TAKES US DEEP INTO THE CRACK CLIMBER’S PARADISE, FROG BUTTRESS, JUST IN TIME TO START PLANNING YOUR WINTER ROAD TRIP. “WHERE A HAND IN A CRACK IS LIKE A CRACK IN THE HEAD… YOU’LL NEVER BE THE SAME AGAIN!” — STUART CAMPS Calm down, deep breaths. My heartbeat is deafening. I question the decisions that have led me to my current position. I am perched high on the flank of an open corner, frozen in a precarious stance, a row of small RPs connecting my lifeline to the cliff. The sun has come out and black lichen is sticky on my clammy skin. A passing friend offers me a wave, but I lack the capacity to wave back.

The route I am climbing is aptly named Barbwire Canoe (25). I feel like I’m up shit creek without a paddle. Why am I doing this?

I glance down and see my patient belayer Frosty casually seated on a rock while still attentively feeding out rope. “You’ll be right just keep feeding them in,” he calls up to me.

Yes, gear would be really nice right now. Why didn’t I just lead Infinity?

That next hold doesn’t look very solid, must remember to not pull too hard.

I glance down again, but the last RP doesn’t look any closer. Maybe I should pursue something else instead of climbing, like stamp collecting? How did I get here?

My journey into traditional climbing started like many others. During my childhood growing up in country Beaudesert, I’d stare southwards from pretty much anywhere and see the same serrated horizon. The Mt Barney massif dominates the skyline of the scenic rim.

The first European to venture into this gagged landscape was Patrick Logan in 1828 ascending Mt Barney by the North-East ridge of east peak now known as Logans Ridge. Nearly a century later in the 1930s, climbing began to be embraced as a recreational activity. Early bushwalking groups and university clubs ventured out of the city to explore the many peaks of the scenic rim.

Climbing quickly consumed me. It became an obsession. The feeling that steals into the heart in a place of rugged beauty and peaceful silence. As a pimply faced teenager, I don’t think I fully understood the path I’d set myself on.

In the post-war 1940s, more people were drawn to the mountains.

Bushwalking became steeper and more technical. Clubs employed the use of ropes and pitons from new techniques learned in Europe.

This advancement led to longer and harder walls. The 1960s produced the tallest routes on the mainland: Mt Barney's East Face of East Peak 300m (17) and North Face of Leaning Peak 400m (14). Climbing in this period was predominantly restricted to tall peaks with long adventurous wall routes, many of which were situated in the Glasshouse Mountains.

AS AN APPRENTICE TRADIE JUST OUT OF SCHOOL, I DROVE PAST AND GAZED UP AT THE BAND OF JUMBLED PILLARS. SOMEONE HAD TOLD ME ONE DAY, “THERE’S SOME GOOD ROCK CLIMBING THERE APPARENTLY”.

The emergence of single pitch traditional climbing in Queensland is often thought to have been in November 1968, where Rick White and Chris Meadows made a rainy day reconnaissance to a craggy outcrop on the flank of Mt French. They named the cliff “Frog Buttress”. As an apprentice tradie just out of school, I drove past and gazed up at the band of jumbled pillars. Someone had told me one day, “There’s some good rock climbing there apparently”.

Frog has been described as a library of rhyolite books standing tall above the grasstrees and goannas, burnt, and cracked from a millennium under a harsh Australian sun. These books hide many AUTUMN 2024 21

LOCAL LORE FROG BUTTRESS AND THE SCENIC RIM

THE EARLIER DAYS SAW CLIMBERS LOCAL, AND INTERSTATE, WHITTLE AWAY AT MOVES ON THE PLUMB LINES, ESTABLISHING SOME OF THE BEST CRACK CLIMBING IN THE COUNTRY. stories in their cracks, tales of struggle and reward. The escarpment of columns and flutes hold the best and most accessible crack climbing in Australia. Unlike the holdless dolerite mega cracks of Tasmania, the rhyolite of Frog can be very sympathetic, offering face holds and stances with cracks of every size, from finger cracks to chimneys.

Throughout the decades, Frog took centre stage of Queensland climbing and has remained the forefront of hard trad climbing. Since its discovery, Frog has seen every grade jump in Qld trad climbing to date.

“Brown Corduroy Trousers” (28) has remained the hardest pure trad climb in Queensland for 40 years; it is described in Joe Lynch’s Frog guidebook as, “Not a route ergonomically designed to facilitate the upwards progress of a human being.”

The earlier days saw climbers local, and interstate, whittle away at moves on the plumb lines, establishing some of the best crack climbing in the country.

Crack routes of mega status include: • “Resurrection Corner” 18 • “Infinity” 19 • “Devil Dihedral” 20 • “Conquistador” 21 • “Child in Time” 22 • “Deliverance” 23 • “Impulse” 24 Over time cracks got thinner and thinner producing fantastic technical seams including: • “Stars look Down” 20 • “Epic Journey” 23 • “Worrying Heights” 24 • “Voices in the Sky” 25 • “Future Tense” 26.

22 AUTUMN 2024

Inevitably, people began to read between the lines. Occupying between the vertical flutes and corners came striking bolted aretes, such as: • The barn dooring layback “Hard Nose” 25 • The brilliant face “Time for Tea” 27 • Fridge hugging brutality on “Debrilla” 28, and • Technical wizardry on “Pokamokoand the Valley Girl” 30.

It's easy to find the classics, but there are also many amazing routes that sometimes get overlooked.

• “IF” 16 feels like a typical SEQ adventure • “The Anti From” 21 is a memorable lead up an exposed pillar • The link up of “Inquisition and Catcher in the Rye” 23 is a sustained groovy crack climb • “Gone and Forgotten” features desperate technical arete climbing with just enough gear, and • “Chook Fear” 26 is a delicate and technical blank corner.

However, not all SEQ revolves around Frog; the Southeast holds many hidden delights. Mt Maroon is home to many seldomly travelled classics with the East Face offering a range of multi pitch undertakings.

“Ruby of India” 16 is regarded as our best moderate trad adventure “Phaedra” 21 provides some old school spice in a seriously classy atmosphere.

The Antichrist is an historic route up the centre of the face and in 1971 it was the hardest aid line in the country. Graded M7 it exceeded the standards of the hard aids on Lord Gumtree and Ozymandias at Mt Buffalo. The route has been freed at a lofty grade 28 and is yet to see a second free ascent.

Located just down the hill from the east face, “Wedgies Place” sports some of the best rock in QLD. The upper tier has the classic finger crack “Ejaculatory Powers” 22–arguably purer than those at Frog.

ISSUE 46 | VERTICALLIFEMAG.COM

The tier is accessed by other shy classics either the arapilesian “Something special” 23 or fine corner “Nothing Much” 18. Down the hill further is “The Nympho” roof crack. An eye-catching feature that has had very few ascents due to a nasty reputation, when in fact, the protection is quite manageable.

Mt Barney is another destination that is frequented with many bushwalkers ascending the mountains numerous ridges and peaks. It is perhaps Queensland’s only “real” mountain. At 1359m it holds a magic alpine atmosphere.

Although Barney trad routes usually come hand in hand with trip reports of “rock the consistency of kitty litter” “portable holds” or “whole pitches of vegetation”, those not fussed on this style of chossnanza can find sanctuary on new age adventure, “The Governor” 22, a 320m sport route on the East Face. The Gov offers a spectacular big day out in a breathtaking position.

Don’t blow it, just one move at a time. Concentrate on the climbing, the falling will take care of itself. Focus on performance not the goal. After an hour and half on lead I gingerly clambered over the top out. Pale face and emotional, I went through the motions of establishing a belay.

Sometimes I get so caught up in the movement, I forget to relax, and listen. The sounds of cicadas and the wind in the trees. Turning back to see the grassy rolling hills and sleepy country towns that extend to the foot of the dividing range. It’s never just about the route, it’s a feeling.

That’s why I climb.

KYLE ADDY is an unwavering optimist with a passion for everything Frog Buttress. Known for his ascent of 'Brown Corduroy Trousers' (28), Kyle has since branched out into barefoot ascents, passivepro-only ascents, blindfolded ascents, M6 solo aid and ascents in 35-degree heat with 1000% humidity.

PERFECTING “JUST SIT THERE”

OPPOSITE: ALEX MOUGENOT CLIMBING I’M A MOP (22). PHOTO BY NATHAN MCNEIL, SET IN STONE PHOTOGRAPHY. ABOVE: ALEX MOUGENOT ON BROWN CORDUROY TROUSERS (28).

PHOTO NATHAN MCNEIL SET IN STONE PHOTOGRAPHY.

The perfect balance of packability, comfort and warmth.

PROLITETM APEXTM Discover more:

Discover more: sales@spelean.com.au // www.spelean.com.au

www.spelean.com.au

UPDATES FROM ALTITUDE

TRAINING AND TEAMWORK

BY ALLIE PEPPER

Aussie mountaineer Allie Pepper is attempting to climb the world’s 14 highest peaks without supplemental oxygen in record time. Back in Australia for the summer to train and plan, she shares what happens off the mountain to keep momentum for 14 Peaks No o2.

24 AUTUMN 2024

ISSUE 46 | VERTICALLIFEMAG.COM

Namaste beautiful people! Greetings from the w, Gundungurra country. I am in between climbing seasons right now and it is a busy time for me. My 14 Peaks project is not only massive in terms of the mountains but it’s a mammoth project to fund.

I have an entire team onboard helping me with that side of the project.

It literally takes a team to achieve this dream, I cannot do it alone.

Off the mountain here in Australia, I work with a business manager, a media manager, and a filmmaker. They are working with me on partnership proposals and my current partnership obligations.

Not only that, we are building our content and media strategies—that is the fun part. Mikel, my climbing partner, his brother Nima Sherpa and I are going to undertake film training early March together. I have had a lot of success on Instagram lately after my video from the summit of Manaslu gained over 29 million views. We are setting a plan in place to get consistent, epic footage from the mountain.

Apart from working on the business side of the project, it is training time. It took me a good month or so to recover from my epic and exhausting year last year after returning in October. Then it was straight back at it, building up my strength and fitness again for an even bigger year in 2024.

I have been working with my coach Rowan Smith from Summit Strength for around three years now. Before we started working together I didn’t have a structured training rescheme. I simply trained for the mountain by doing things I would do on the mountain, such as hiking up hills with a loaded backpack and trail running for endurance.

I didn’t have a tailored strength training program; I used to do Rip60 workouts and not lift weights.

This style of training worked, don’t get me wrong. However, now I have a structured routine tailored to my specific goal, my lifestyle, my equipment and my body, I would never train any other way. I also have another coach who is also involved in tailoring the workouts to my body—Lee Cossey. You may have heard of him before as the person

who coached Tom O’Halloran to represent Australia in climbing at the Olympics.

One question I am asked a lot is whether training to climb above 8000 metres without supplemental oxygen is the same as training to climb with it. The way Rowan explains it is that while there is no major difference, without oxygen we need to ensure we are developing MORE of everything… More aerobic capacity, to help keep moving on the long days. More strength, to support climbing. More endurance, to keep muscles producing force over and over and over again.

I am currently in a training phase where I work out six days a week in the lead up to my departure to Nepal early March. Designed by Rowan, this includes:

• •

Long trail runs, to develop aerobic capacity.

•

Hill runs and bike sprints, to get exposure to some slightly higher intensities.

•

Structured strength training to ensure there is a huge base of strength to support this movement, as well as to reduce the risk of aches, pains and injuries creeping up.

Heavy loaded hill climbing to develop super specific muscular endurance in the legs.

Each of these sessions by themselves isn't enough to best get ready for the mountain. It is the combination of these, plus everything else from previous phases of training, which will come together as a whole.

I also use hypoxic training (simulated altitude training) to aid endurance performance. It is a funny topic in the world of mountaineering. Some people swear by it. Some people are adamantly against it. For me, I had a hypoxico set up available in my house, so we incorporated it into parts of the training. To be clear though, we didn't use it to replace a traditional acclimatisation schedule, or to try to “pre-acclimatise”. (There is a lot of debate around the effectiveness and application of this.)

AUTUMN 2024 25

UPDATES FROM ALTITUDE TRAINING AND TEAMWORK

The build up to my current training consisted of chunks of three week training blocks. Each block has increased in intensity and quantity, starting at three days per week when my body was still in recovery mode.

• • • •

A summary of where my body took me last year:

• • • •

Climbed to 8450m on Everest without oxygen

Trekked to Annapurna Base Camp Trekked the Mardi Himal Trek Weeks of climbing on Dhaulagiri reaching 6500m of altitude through difficult conditions Summited Broad Peak without oxygen.

Climbed on K2 to 7350m.

Summited Manaslu without oxygen, two weeks after arriving at Base Camp.

Working with Rowan and Lee has blown my mind. Last year I had the biggest physical output year of my entire mountaineering career.

I would never have before thought my body was capable of what I put it through—but now I know it is capable of even more.

Follow Allie on Instagram @alliepepperadventures and check out her live tracker to see her progress in real time.

LEFT & RIGHT PAGE: ALLIE IS CURRENTLY TRAINING SIX DAYS PER WEEK. PREVIOUS PAGE: ASCENDING HOUSE CHIMNEY ON K2 LAST YEAR. IMAGES SUPPLIED BY ALLIE PEPPER

BRING ON TOMORROW’S ADVENTURE

Fitzroy, K2, Cho Oyu, Denali, Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro, Kosciuszko, El Capitan, Ama Dablam, Annapurna, Everest, Minto Peak... ...where will you take it?

Photo: Harrison Candlin

E S T. 1 9 7 5

B O R N O F T H E M O U N TA I N S

MOUNTAINDESIGNS.COM

GETTING TO KNOW

Doug M CONNELL c

IMAGES BY KAMIL SUSTIAK OF DOUG ON THE VALKYRIE (8C/33), HANSHELLERAN CAVE, FLATANGER, NORWAY

DOUG STARTED CLIMBING IN TASSIE A QUARTER OF A CENTURY AGO AND HAS DABBLED IN TRAD AND BOULDERING, BUT IS NOW FOCUSED ON REDPOINTING HARD SPORT ROUTES. TWO YEARS AGO, HE MOVED TO SPAIN WITH HIS PARTNER, KERRIN, FOR THE GLAMOUR OF LIVING IN A CAR IN THE SPORT CLIMBING CENTRE OF THE WORLD. HE IS PROUDLY SUPPORTED BY LA SPORTIVA. You’ve been living in Europe for two years now—what do they have that we don’t in Australia?!

It's hard to sum up succinctly how different it is here. Spain is the undisputed sport climbing capital of the world. There are more hard routes in Spain than in France and Italy combined. Both the rock and the climate lend itself to hard climbing, and this brings the best climbers. The culture is amazing—I love that I can go to crags like Santa Linyaor Rodellar and climb, shoulder to shoulder, with some of the best in the world.

28 AUTUMN 2024

The sharing of knowledge, ideas and psych really makes the environment conducive to hard climbing. Grades somehow have a different gravitas when you see someone flashing your project – suddenly it seems a little more attainable!

What I believe happens is that because there are so many great climbers, there is always someone better than you—even if you climb 9b+[38 in Australian grades]—so people are usually very humble and encouraging towards each other. It's as though there’s a common goal of working together to push the limits. I love this environment. It’s what I imagine it would be like for a marathon runner to go to the Rift Valley and run with the Kenyans.

And what about the rock itself?

Aside from the culture, the rock is really different to Australia. I especially love the big limestone caves. In the last two years I’ve climbed mostly in these, seeking out the biggest steepest most audacious looking routes I can climb on. I enjoy the whole body physicality of these routes—I’ve spent up to 45 minutes redpointing a single pitch! Suffice to say this is quite a different experience to crimping in Centennial Glen (Blue Mountains).

ISSUE 46 | VERTICALLIFEMAG.COM

I LOVE THIS ENVIRONMENT. IT’S WHAT I IMAGINE IT WOULD BE LIKE FOR A MARATHON RUNNER TO GO TO THE RIFT VALLEY AND RUN WITH THE KENYANS. I find that in Australia, for the most part the climbing is reduced to the strength of what’s below your elbows. Obviously, this plays a role in the caves, but the steeper and more featured it gets, the more you get to use your whole body.

The result is I can climb more, because I’m less limited by skin damage to the last joint of my fingers and I’m often getting a training stimulus from just climbing on rock. Being more 3D climbing, there are lots of tricks to these routes, which means that there are often lots of different ways to do sections and lots of routes that don’t just depend on your ability to do one specific move.

Another thing that’s great about being here is that there are lots of others doing what I am—living in a car and going climbing as much as possible. There are not many places in the world where the climate and the amount of rock allows this lifestyle year-round.

What do you miss about climbing in Australia?

I miss being able to go to the crag with friends. The banter is never the same across the language barrier—especially if the other’s language is American or British.

I miss those crisp winter (or summer!) days in Blackheath when the snow clouds are just out of reach and westerly winds turn the rock to velcro. I miss good coffee, my training room, exploring and developing the Bluies and expensive beer (wait, not that one).

And how did you get into climbing in the first place?

Dad used to take us bushwalking as kids. I found it boring but always wanted to go up things – trees, rocks, etc. Then as a teenager I saw some sort of extreme sport compilation at an IMAX cinema…I can still picture an image of some cheesy dude in fluro and sunnies cruising an American sandstone splitter. I thought that was somehow the coolest thing I’d ever seen.

A few years later I moved to Tassie to play cricket and started dabbling with climbing. Within months I gave away cricket. I never fully got into fluro.

AUTUMN 2024 29

GETTING TO KNOW DOUG MCCONNELL

What made you want to focus on sport climbing?

Part of the culture in Tassie when I started climbing was to look down on sport climbing—the real hard men of climbing were completely dismissive of it. I spent a lot of time doing chossy and scary trad, and talking shit about lame sport climbing scaredy cats. But I always wanted to be better. It took me years to realise that the climbers that were better were not just gifted that ability, they had actually worked for it—and the obvious continuation was the realisation that I too could do something to change my ability.

I was slow to catch on, but a year mostly sport climbing in Europe in 2009/10 had me hooked. Since then, I’ve still dabbled with bits and pieces of trad, and even the odd boulder, but the focus now is sport climbing…before I’m too old to improve.

Tell us about a route you felt you grew as a climber on?

Last year I climbed Coma Sant Pere in Margalef. This probably ranks as my most frustrating redpoint experience, but also the one that I’ve learnt the most from.

It’s a 50ish-metre pitch up the imposing, 45-degree-overhung, Visera wall. This one was a saga and, at times, I was completely sure that I wouldn’t do the route and that I would walk away having climbed very high, very often. This was the route I’ve spent the most time on in the last two years. It took me to some dark places mentally.

On my eighth day of climbing on it, I fell above the last bolt (of 17).

I proceeded to fall there, on relatively easy climbing, for the next 11 climbing days. It doesn’t sound that bad in retrospect, but this took over a month of effort. I was climbing mostly day on, day off and only climbing on that one route.

Because of the size of the route, I would only have one good go in me per day, which compounded the mental pressure to make each go count. In the end we even left Margalef (I left the ‘draws on) and went to Santa Linya for a change of scenery, because always falling in the same place, after 30 odd minutes on route, was breaking my brain.

30 AUTUMN 2024

Finally, on day 20, after mentally throwing in the towel, but still having to go to the top to get the ‘draws off, I eked out those last few moves. After confirming with Kerrin (on belay) that I hadn’t weighted the rope, the overriding feelings were of confusion and relief.

Any tips for projecting routes?

So many. But one thing I think trumps any more specific tactic is to be conscious of what you’re actually doing, so that you’re ready for when it gets hard mentally.

Simply put, I think the key to projecting is acknowledging the risk vs reward ratio and accepting that the more risk, the greater the reward.

But also the greater the risk of coming away empty handed.

ISSUE 46 | VERTICALLIFEMAG.COM

THE BEST PROJECTS ARE THOSE THAT FORCE US TO CHANGE. A PROJECT SHOULD KEEP YOU AWAKE AT NIGHT, IT SHOULD MAKE YOU NERVOUS THINKING ABOUT IT, AND IT SHOULD CERTAINLY NOT HAVE A KNOWN OUTCOME. Embracing discomfort: Projecting should not feel comfortable. Its confronting and challenging and really quite uncomfortable for most of, if not the whole, process.

known outcome. I think if you can sign up to this concept from the outset, you will be more able to deal with the tough times when they (inevitably) arrive.

What are your next goals?

I actually don’t like talking openly about goals or what I’m going to do because it’s been shown to reduce the likelihood of actually doing it. That said, I’m really motivated to keep pushing my level in sport climbing at least for the next couple of years.

For this year there are two routes in particular that I’m keen to put time into. I’ve climbed on both of them previously and doing either of them would represent a new level for my climbing.

Anything final words of wisdom?

Impossible to possible: I think the sweet spot for a project is when you don’t know if you can do it. If something is possible but not probable, then any and all progress is rewarding. The cliché of taking something that’s impossible, to being possible, is a cliché because it's real. And it’s a beautiful thing when it works.

I’ve been conscious lately that my relationship with climbing has changed a lot over the years. I remember my first climb on the Organ Pipes above Hobart and how mind blowing just being up high was.

Now it’s all about difficulty for me—something my younger self would have scoffed at.

Getting it wrong is getting it right: Once you’ve been through a few projects, you know that something that feels impossible on the first day (or even the first five days) can quickly change into feeling close to completion. So, finding a project that’s at the right level—one that really makes you question your choice, but that ultimately becomes an engrossing challenge—is not easy. You will (and should) climb on projects that you don’t do…or not without stepping away and coming back better anyway.

My climbing practice has been really disjointed, I’ve had large periods off due to study, injury, work, cricket, but I’ve been consistent. Every year for the last 24 I’ve done some amount of climbing, and often with a curious mind towards how I might improve.

No, that other sort of fun: The best projects are those that force us to change. A project should keep you awake at night, it should make you nervous thinking about it, and it should certainly not have a

I mention this because I think it’s worth pointing out that (unless you’re at a world class level already) you don’t need to follow a strict training regime every day of every year to keep getting better, even into your 40s. And much like any other aspect of life, small improvements built on years of foundation can be quite rewarding.

Inspired? Chuck Doug a follow on Insta @dugmcc

The award-winning Frontier Collapsible Cook Set — maximise your mealtime and minimise your pack size — five collapsible, super lightweight and easy to use pieces.

www.seatosummit.com

32 AUTUMN 2024

HOW I GOT THE SHOT

ISSUE 46 | VERTICALLIFEMAG.COM

AUSSIE PHOTOGRAPHER MAKES HISTORY WORDS & IMAGES

BY KRYSTLE WRIGHT

You may remember Krystle Wright’s epic feature in VL #42 last autumn. The Queensland-born photographer wrote about her journey and inspiration to photograph a crack climb as lightening—and how in Moab, Utah, she realised her vision.

We are thrilled to report that it wasn’t just us at VL who are in awe of Krystle’s talents. In December, her image won the Red Bull Illume, making Krystle the first woman to win the world’s largest adventure and action sports imagery contest.

In this special How I Got The Shot column, Krystle takes VL behind the scenes of the awards night and shares what drives her to keep going in the world of freelance adventure photography. © KRYSTLE WRIGHT / RED BULL ILLUME. ATHLETE: ANGELA VANWIEMEERSCH, LONG CANYON, UT, UNITED STATES

AUTUMN 2024 33

HOW I GOT THE SHOT AUSSIE PHOTOGRAPHER MAKES HISTORY

OVERALL WINNER KRYSTLE WRIGHT AT THE RED BULL ILLUME WINNER AWARD CEREMONY ON NOVEMBER 30, 2023 IN SÖLDEN, AUSTRIA. © ZOOOM

The Red Bull Illume is so much more than a competition. As a freelance photographer, it can often feel like a lonely pursuit. We dedicate so much of ourselves to our craft in remote locations, and it’s rare that I ever get to spend time with other creatives in the industry.

My category was announced early in the evening. My heart was pounding outside of my chest and my hands were shaking uncontrollably. When my name was called out over the speaker it was an incredible moment. I wish I could tell my younger self that such a moment was to come.

But every two years, the Illume extends an invite to the top 50 finalists to gather for a few days. In 2023 it had been 10 years since I last made the top 50 stage in Hong Kong (2013 edition). I had forgotten how special it is when we all gather.

The dust settled for barely a moment before I realised that I now had a 1 in 10 shot to win the whole thing. It was an agonising wait throughout the evening, and an even more torturous process as they teased the unveiling out as long as possible. I thought on stage that I would fall apart in jigsaw pieces as my heart was pounding so hard.

Sweat was pouring out of me. It was a surreal moment when I was announced as the overall winner.

The 2023 edition brought together the finalists in Sölden, Austria.

As soon as I stumbled in my jet lagged state through the icy doors of the hotel, I was handed a beer and immediately immersed in conversation with colleagues I hadn’t seen in years.

When I look back on the 2013 competition, I remember how desperately I had hoped that I would win my category, and how deflated and dejected I was when I didn’t. Competitions can be a difficult emotional journey as they bring a special platform to celebrate work and extra recognition to the artist.

My younger self would place too much importance on competitions, as I was seeking validation for my work. It’s a dangerous place to be mentally if one puts too much pressure or expectation on such a subjective thing. Over time, I came to realise that competitions are best treated as a bonus. They can be an incredible motivation, as they push me to make sure I have a new body of work before the next edition of a competition.

Coming into 2023 of Red Bull Illume, I truly had no expectations.

I had just a single image to enter and it felt like a hopeless dream to think that this one image could make it to the finals for such a fiercely competitive award. Fast forward to the winner’s ceremony, and I was a complete nervous wreck.

34 AUTUMN 2024

Even now, months later, I still find the whole experience quite surreal. One memory I’ll keep with me for life is when I saw my close friends in the crowd and the pure joy and stoke on their faces as they cheered.

There are many times in the pursuit of a creative career that I question what on earth I am doing. Is this worth it? Why is it that I’m willing to put myself through so much uncertainty to continue to carve a career as a photographer?

But the award helped bring back the confidence that I can create work that engages an audience and a wider community who also believes in my work. One of the best compliments I’ve received about the lighting crack concept is when others recognise what a unique idea it is. I have heard from fellow creatives that it sparks their imagination and that they are using this project to inspire their own new ideas.

In a sea of content that often disappears into a digital vortex, this image has been one of the greatest gifts of my career.

REEL ROCK 18 is here Our favourite autumn climbing film tour is back with four epic reels for your viewing pleasure.

In Aussie and NZ cinemas from March, this selection covers an awe-inspiring ascent in the Andes, gets philosophical with climbing purist Sachi Amma on Mt. Mizugaki, heads to Mallorca for camaraderie and deep water soloing with Angie Scarth-Johnson and Hazel Findlay, and follows a tight knit Ukrainian climbing community in the midst of war.

CLIMBING JIRISHANCA. PHOTO BY CHEYNE LEMPE.

36 AUTUMN 2024

ISSUE 46 | VERTICALLIFEMAG.COM

PHOTOS BY MATT GROOM

Climbing Never Die Filmmaker Matt Groom chats to VL about the story he was prepared to risk everything for.

Indoor speed climbing may not be an obvious subject choice for Reel Rock, but when Matt Groom met Ukrainian Danyil Boldyrev he saw a film that needed to be made.

As an IFC commentator and filmmaker, Matt was at a comp in Munich where Danyil competed and won. When Danyil told Matt he was considering going back to Ukraine for the Nationals in Kiev, Matt said something just clicked.

“I didn’t really have a plan [but] I had this absolute certainty that there was a story in Ukraine,” he said.

Matt was struck by the idea that even in the middle of a war zone, people still wanted to climb. But, he explained, it made sense—he himself turns to climbing when he feels sad or down, so why wouldn’t Ukrainian climbers do the same?

To make the film, Matt said he was lucky to be guided by Danyil who took the lead in organising logistics and showing Matt his country.

“I went with Danyil and crossed the border,” said Matt. “I traveled 3,500 km in a few weeks, gradually moving further east. I ended up by myself in a place 30km from the Russian border—it was an active war zone, we were there during a Russian offensive.”

“We found some stories that the world needed to see and needed to be told,” said Matt. “I’ve always struggled with the idea that sport and politics shouldn’t be linked. Politics is a fundamental part of any sport. My job is to go to climbing comps and talk about what happens in that moment, but there is so much that happens outside those two hours.”

As he explored the Ukraine and interviewed climbers, Matt said

he was struck by the juxtaposition between the joy they took in climbing and the death and the destruction surrounding them.

“We see these athletes compete, and we need to see what their country is going through,” Matt said. “I went to a competition and as we left an enormous air raid siren sounded, and yet people were walking around like nothing was happening. Any one of those competitors could be killed at any moment.”

Heading into a war zone would alter the worldview of most people. And Matt is no exception.

“For me it was and is the most important thing I’ve ever done. As fulfilling as what I’ve done in life is, this is something above that,” he said.

“I went there for quite selfish reasons. I went there because I needed to film something and I needed to find something. Along the way I realised that that sense of ego was a bit pathetic when actual people's lives were at stake.”

Matt said that he came away with a sense of responsibility to make a film that honoured the people who let him into their lives and trusted him with their stories.

“Danyil Boldyrev is the most incredible person. He’s struggling with the idea that he should be fighting, but instead he’s competing to win medals,” said Matt. “It’s his story, without him none of this would have happened… He let me in and I happened to be there with a camera.”

AUTUMN 2024 37

REEL ROCK 18

Yeah Buddy WORDS BY ANGIE SCARTH-JOHNSON

Australian climber Angie Scarth-Johnson has been setting records from an early age.

In Yeah Buddy she teams up with veteran adventure climber Hazel Findlay to take on deep-water soloing in Mallorca, Spain.

Angie takes us behind the scenes of Yeah Buddy… and explains why Hazel was the ideal mentor to learn a new skill with. [See page 54-58 for a detailed Q&A with Hazel on the mental game and performance hacks.]

The realities of deep water soloing slightly differed from my perception before I tried it myself. It looks like such a slow, easy process from the outside…and if you’re staying within your comfort zone it may be. But if you’re trying to push yourself, it’s a whole different story.

You're quickly overwhelmed. Senses go into overdrive, and you

Deep water soloing is truly based on your ability to manage the fear of pure uncertainty, and become well acquainted with one of the rawest feelings of vulnerability.

the salt. Slowly but surely, you're able to find some sense of

38 AUTUMN 2024

begin to take in more information than you're even capable of

processing. You’re now hearing everything twice as loud, waves

continuously crash and swell beneath you, the ocean breathes… there’s that lingering sea smell and your skin starts to sting from

comfort in the discomfort and it serves as a tool to navigate and gauge risk.

ISSUE 46 | VERTICALLIFEMAG.COM

PHOTO BY BRETT LOWELL

PHOTO BY MATTY HONG

If you're ever able to muster up the courage to commit to a move or climb higher than five metres above the water, you’ll surely experience what I call the “no turning back now" stage. The stage in which you’re either climbing up or, allowing gravity to do its job, nothing in between.

If you decide to take the fall, you're now free falling, frantically waving your arms to stabilise, trying your absolute hardest to not become one of those horror stories, like when someone told you about that one guy who couldn’t land straight… Well, I’m sure you can imagine.

The impact sort of hurts, it always does but not in a “I’m never doing that again” kind of way. Or maybe between swallowing sea water and trying to stay afloat you quickly forget.

The waves are rough, and it immediately dawns on you how insignificant and powerless you are. You're tired and worn but you stay composed, you really must... you need to pick the right moment to swim back. After a few times, you quickly learn to read the ocean's rhythm and it becomes routine. You also gain a sixth sense in jellyfish scouting… When someone’s shouting at

you from above, “JELLY TO YOUR LEFT” the whole scene is just chaos. But that feeling and rush of adrenaline is what you start to crave.

Repeating this process to try a single line is like running a marathon. Each time draining you, physically and emotionally twice as fast as it would on a sport route. You learn to value each try, and you learn to stop when you know you're pushing it.

Being so outside my comfort zone and feeling like an absolute beginner at climbing again, I’m grateful that I had Hazel there with me. She has always been the face of bold scary climbing.

Before I met her I thought she must have an incredible ability to completely shut out fear. I thought I would have to learn to do the same to keep up. To my surprise, it was the opposite. Hazel had a very calming and comforting presence in moments that felt out of control. Her approach to fear was to not go against it at all. In a discipline very dominated by male climbers, her calm, feminine energy was quite noticeable.

The whole experience was a first, in several ways. I’d do it again.

AUTUMN 2024 39

REEL ROCK 18

Sachi Style Follow the philosophical journey of Japanese climbing phenom Sachi Amma, as he evolves from three-time world champion to traditional climbing purist, culminating in a visionary first ascent on the mythical Mt. Mizugaki.

TOP TWO IMAGES: PHOTO BY ANDREA COSSU. BOTTOM IMAGE: PHOTO BY YUI TAKAHASHI.

40 AUTUMN 2024

LIVE. CLIMB. REPEAT.

BD ATHLETE: LUCY STIRLING PHOTOGRAPHER: NATHAN MCNEIL

BLACKDIAMONDEQUIPMENT.COM.AU

REEL ROCK 18

Jirishanca Renowned alpinists Josh Wharton and Vince Anderson attempt a free ascent of the Jirishanca, an epic 20,000-foot peak in the Peruvian Andes. The duo will have to tackle 5.13 face climbing, horizontal ice roofs, technical mixed terrain and treacherous snow mushrooms as they reconcile the inherent risk of climbing with their love of alpine adventure.

FROM TOP TO BOTTOM: PHOTO BY DREW SMITH ; PHOTO BY VINCE ANDERSON ; PHOTO BY DREW SMITHHASHI.

42 AUTUMN 2024

Reel Rock 18 premieres in Australia and New Zealand starting March 2024!

Immerse yourself in four gripping new climbing films from across the globe: a visionary first ascent on Japan’s mythical Mt. Mizugaki; a climbing community held together in war-torn Ukraine; a treacherous free ascent of Jirishanca in the Peruvian Andes; and an exploration of Mallorca’s deep-water soloing. Reel Rock 18 is presented by The North Face and supported by Black Diamond.

The Reel Rock Australian and New Zealand tour is presented by Wild Earth and proudly supported by Black Diamond, SCARPA, YETI, Stax and GME.

SELECTED SCREENINGS AUSTRALIAN DATES

NEW ZEALAND DATES

WHANGAREI MELBOURNE The Astor Theatre 12 Mar AUCKLAND BRISBANE Five Star Cinemas - New Farm 14 Mar CHRISTCHURCH GOLD COAST Home of the Arts 15 Mar WANAKA CANBERRA Dendy Cinemas Canberra 19 Mar QUEENSTOWN SYDNEY WEST Dendy Cinemas Newtown 20 Mar TAURANGA SYDNEY EAST Ritz Cinemas 20 Mar PAPAMOA PERTH Luna Palace Cinemas 21 Mar TAKAKA BLUE MOUNTAINS Mount Vic Flicks 25 Mar & 26 Mar FREMANTLE Luna on SX 28 Mar ADELAIDE The Regal Theatre 28 Mar SYDNEY NORTHERN BEACHES Glen Street Theatre 4 Apr

Northland Climbing Club Lecture Theatre Middleton Grange School Paradiso Cinema The World Bar & Restaurant Luxe Cinemas Tauranga Luxe Cinemas Papamoa Village Cinemas Takaka

8 Mar 11 Mar 14 Mar 21 Mar 4 Apr 6 Apr & 9 Apr 6 Apr & 9 Apr 9 Apr

FEATURE

SEVEN YEARS ON HUMP OF TROUBLE WORDS BY TOM O’HALLORAN

WHEN PROFESSIONAL CLIMBER AND AUSTRALIAN OLYMPIAN TOM O’HALLORAN BOLTED A 10-METRE SPORT CLIMB IN A DARK CAVE HE DIDN’T REALISE IT WOULD BECOME A YEARS-LONG OBSESSION. HE TAKES US THROUGH THE JOURNEY—PHYSICAL AND EMOTIONAL—THAT LED HIM TO SEND WHAT MAY BE AUSTRALIA’S HARDEST ROUTE.

In 2008 I wrote a message to a friend, who had just completed a mega long-term climbing project. I said how inspired I was and that one day I wanted to find my own mega project that could beat me up, throw me around and I could really sink my teeth into.

It’s a very “un-Blue Mountainsy” climb. Not a glorious line on a slightly overhung orange face, dappled in sunset light. It’s a very short little zigzag line through very steep, grey rock, in the middle of a dark cave. It held a different beauty.

Sitting there writing the message on the school library computer, I pictured this beautiful flow to the struggle: pushing through the tough stuff with purpose and grit and a smile. However, a decade later, swinging around on the end of a rope four meters above the ground, in a dark, cold cave, screaming f-bombs at the top of my lungs, up to my neck in the reality of pushing my limits, I wasn’t so sure.

In the beginning I’d taken about 20 days to whittle the route down to 15 moves that felt like a sniff at a redpoint-able sequence. Fifteen of the most intense and consistent moves I’d ever tried on rock. I loved it.

Like many challenges in life, at least in my experience, I didn’t really know what I was signing up for with this project. When I bolted it in 2015, it looked hard, sure, but everything I bolted always did. Most projects I’d then spend a few days or a season on and they’d be done.

Why would this be any different?

Walking into the crag for the first day of my third season in 2019–let’s call it about day 41–I realised that the “Hump of Trouble Project” may be a little different to the ones before.

46 AUTUMN 2024

The 2017 and 2018 seasons, the first two, I really enjoyed. It may sound absurd, but dangling about, trying to unlock the puzzle to climb those 15 moves without falling off never felt like a chore. I had mini goals for each day and was always psyched to show up and just keep chipping away. I’d find a win in the smallest thing, and it’d fuel the hunger to return. Every little bit was one step closer.

In 2019, however, the whole thing started to unravel. I’d been sharing small parts of the process on social media and enjoyed showing people what it was all about. But as the days I’d spent on this started to add up, talk started to happen around how hard this route could be.

Could it be the hardest route in the country? Could it be the next

ISSUE 46 | VERTICALLIFEMAG.COM

IMAGE BY BRECON LITTLEFORD

COULD IT BE THE HARDEST ROUTE IN THE COUNTRY? COULD IT BE THE NEXT GRADE JUMP IN AUSTRALIA? WHAT WOULD THAT MEAN? grade jump in Australia? What would that mean? What could it mean globally? Would it be something that could tempt Adam Ondra down?

Would he be able to onsight it? Would that mean, after all this effort, that I’m weak?

With all this crap floating around in my head I was completely paralysed while climbing. This sucked even more because I’d put in some solid training coming into the season and really felt like this could be the year. Now, feeling the best I ever had physically, my head was kicking hard against me—not something I had ever previously experienced. I desperately tried to find a way through the noise, but would always leave the crag more confused and frustrated. All I could think to do was to keep showing up, day after day.

By now I was falling off the second last move. A jump to a left hand slot, where you’d then cut loose, swing the right foot back on and jump for the victory jug. I was falling there twice a day for days and days. It could

go any day now! But it didn’t.

The pressure of that, piled on top of all the other head noise, drove me even more insane. Each time I fell from the jump, or any lower, I’d scream and swear and throw a tantrum. I was so frustrated and angry and lost as to what I needed, to finally just climb. I struggled to tap into the Tom I knew was there, who could just pull on and enjoy moving across rock, finding the balance between intention and flow and hunger and peace.

Anyone who’s been here knows it’s not as simple as just relaxing. “Just breathe through it and chill” was not something I could do here. I was desperate to climb it and to have all the glory I thought lay on the other side.

Somehow, one day, I found a moment on the wall where the noise cleared, and I just climbed. I felt floaty and free. Moving up the wall without conscious effort. It was just happening. Then I was jumping for AUTUMN 2024 47

FEATURE SEVEN YEARS ON HUMP OF TROUBLE IMAGE BY BRECON LITTLEFORD

THIS IS WHAT IT’S LIKE TO BE IN THE DARK ABYSS OF REDPOINTING. THIS IS WHAT IT FEELS LIKE TO BE PUSHING YOUR LIMITS, COMPLETELY CONSUMED BY ONE SILLY PIECE OF CLIMBING THAT MEANS EVERYTHING. the left-hand slot, where I’d fallen 10 plus times already, and I stuck it.

Suddenly all the floodgates of head noise were back open, and my mind exploded: “This is it Tom, you are finally going to climb this thing. The hardest route in Australia. You’ve never fallen on this move, ever. This whole journey is over. Let’s take it to the top!”

This, of course, made me completely rush the move and I threw myself totally out from the wall. I got my hand wrapped around the finish hold, but the momentum I had heading in the opposite direction meant I just couldn’t hold on. Now I’m swinging around on the end of the rope, screaming myself hoarse, knowing I’d totally choked. That wasn’t how it was meant to go.

I went back for a few more days, but they weren’t productive. Now with the pressure of really knowing it could happen, I was even more stuck. I just couldn’t find the flow again, stuck in the cycle of noise and nonsense. It had been about 60 days and the grind of showing up over and over was taking its toll on me. I was turning myself inside and out, looking for the solution.

This is what it’s like to be in the dark abyss of redpointing. This is what it feels like to be pushing your limits, completely consumed by one silly piece of climbing that means everything. This is not what I had in mind in the library when I sent that message. This is way more uncomfortable.

Having said that, I never doubted I would eventually do it. For whatever reason, I knew from day one, I was going to climb this thing. The impatience of when it was going to happen was my undoing. I felt like I’d done everything I’d been asked and it still wasn’t happening. This was what was driving me crazy. “What more do you need me to do?”

Soon enough the season shut down and that was it. The bitterness and hunger of the fall, still in my mouth. I knew I could do it and would be back for 2020.

That next season I injured myself a few times before I could even make a start on the route. It really hurt to sit at home, knowing the route was there waiting and I just couldn’t pull on. But I’d make it happen in 2021.

That didn’t happen though, as I ended up qualifying for the Olympics.

48 AUTUMN 2024

A side project I had been working on alongside my outdoor climbing goals. It was a total dream come true to walk out onto the Olympic stage, wearing the Green and Gold, showcasing Sport Climbing to the Olympic world for the first time.

Coming home from Tokyo, I was burnt out and needed a rest. Despite being in the best shape of my life and the season still being on, the thought of trying hard and going through the redpoint whirlpool made me want to curl into a ball and cry. I was spent. Next year would be the one.

Again, that wasn’t to be. Twenty twenty-two did nothing but rain.

Totally saturating the cliff and making it more like a water park than a climbing crag. By now I’d spent as much time trying the route as I had off it. A bit of a strange feeling really. The more time went on, the more I built the route up in my head. The story I told myself and the pressure I felt after falling from the last move, grew. I was building a monster nightmare in my head.

Eventually pulling back on in 2023, was nothing like I expected. It felt incredible. Incredible to be back down there, playing in my own little world again, remembering the subtleties and quirks and feeling of the moves and holds. I’d worried and stressed that maybe the time had passed and I’d never be back here, never climb past the jump, never be able to lay this one to rest. But even walking back into the cliff, looking up at the line, I knew it was going to happen.

It took nine days to get back into the full groove of the route again. The first few days were only dabble days while climbing other lines at the crag. I’ve always liked the “soft opening” to a hard project season. If I have a big project at a cliff, I’ll find a second-tier project to knock over early and hit the big one with momentum. There’s just something nice about knowing you’ve been to the top of the cliff on redpoint already.

You know how the party works.

On day nine, I was feeling incredible. I’d had a warmup at home and headed down to the cliff feeling light in my heart and head. I’d found a space where I was just feeling really happy to be out climbing, and to be able to put my energy into something special and meaningful.

My bolt to bolt warm up felt crazy. Like someone had made the holds twice as big and turned gravity down by half. I felt like I had all the time in the world on the holds and could play with it how I wanted. This was cool!

Redpoint tie in one for the day felt just as good and suddenly I was jumping for the slot move again. A move I hadn’t got to from the ground for four years. I fumbled the hold and landed on the end of the rope. But instead of the usual dummy spit of years gone by, I was psyched. I was back here, feeling good and was totally happy to just stay the course.

IMAGE BY KAMIL SUSTIAK

gear for serious adventures

MY BOLT TO BOLT WARM UP FELT CRAZY. LIKE SOMEONE HAD MADE THE HOLDS TWICE AS BIG AND TURNED GRAVITY DOWN BY HALF. Tie in number two went the same. I jumped for the slot, fumbled, and landed on the end of the rope. Again, smiling. This was awesome. This was me.

This was the place I needed to be in to get the best out of myself. A feeling of peace and contentment, sprinkled with a healthy does of frothing hunger to send. The place I had been searching for for all those previous years. A true acceptance that all I needed to do was keep putting in the work, keep showing up and keep giving it everything I had. To relax and enjoy the ride.

Tie in number three, I had decided to commit to bloodshed. The right hand hold you use to jump for the slot move is sharp, and had taken a health tax on my finger’s skin many times before. I had a few options available to get through this attempt. Taping the finger (resulting in less good friction on the crucial hold), using a different grip position (suboptimal pulling power), or go all out, use the strongest two fingers and gamble completely tearing open my finger, giving myself a wound that could take weeks to recover, but giving myself the best possible chance of sending. But if I didn’t send, were the consequences going to be worth it?

I was here to do it though, not avoid it. Let’s give it everything.

As I lined up for the jump, I felt the skin on my finger tear. But suddenly my left-hand fingers were sunk into the little slot and I was still on the wall. My feet swung out and as I planted them back on the wall.

I concentrated hard. Consciously taking a moment to pause and set myself up to do the move properly. I wasn’t going to stuff this one up again.

I threw and hit the final hold, letting out a huge scream. It was over!

Well, kind of over. The hard bit at least. I clipped the last draw and only had two body lengths of grade 15 climbing to the anchor. As I pulled up through the dinner plate jugs, my stress levels went through the roof at the thought of one of these holds breaking off. I’d had nightmares about this for years and now I was face to face with them. Imagine after seven years, if I finally stick that move, only to have a hold break on me.

I wouldn’t know what to do.

Thankfully, the rock gods were smiling on me, and I clipped the anchors, sank into the rope, and felt it all. It was finally done. A piece of climbing that had beaten me up, thrown me around and taught me a whole lot. I think we really only get one experience like this in our climbing lives, if we are open to it. One journey through the rough and bumps and hope we make it out the other side. This is a special one for me, but also an experience I won’t be signing up for again too soon.

Haha.

Thank you rock climbing. Thank you, Hump of Trouble.

You’re the best.

& MORE!

bogong.com.au

FEATURE

GLIDING THROUGH

The Sky ON WA’S LONGEST HIGHLINE

WORDS BY JEREMY SHEPHERD, WITH ASSISTANCE FROM NICK PONTIN PHOTOS BY JEREMY SHEPHERD

50 AUTUMN 2024

ISSUE 46 | VERTICALLIFEMAG.COM

In May last year, a crew of slack-lining superstars rigged a record-setting new line in WA. Jeremy and Nick share the story—and the photos—of the mammoth team effort that made it happen.

Grabbing the wheel and slamming the car door shut, I was ready to head south of Perth down the same familiar Forrest Highway.

Except this time I was heading for a place only one of our crew had ever been—Forest Edge Recreation Camp, in Waroona, WA. I was headed there to be part of an attempt at what would be WA's longest ever highline—an ambitious 520m affair.

Essentially a school camp, the location was an unusual place to try and rig a highline, but it had all the right ingredients: steep hills with a clear valley below, camp facilities on site, and friendly land owners who had given us the green light.

The one thing it didn't have was suitable anchors to rig from...

For the couple of years that I've known Nick Pontin, he's tried planting many seeds and selling the idea of Waroona being the next place to open up new lines in the clouds. What he didn't expect is that when he tried to get the land owners on board, they not only agreed, but immediately got to work installing permanent high ropes-style anchors at each end! Three massive wooden poles set specifically for us, exactly where we wanted (about 50m away from the spa overlooking the line).

THIS TRULY WAS A UNIQUE HIGHLINE SETTING, WITH CUSTOM ANCHORS, SPA, CAMP ACCOMODATION AND VEHICLE ACCESS TO BOTH SIDES. This truly was a unique highline setting, with custom anchors, spa, camp accomodation and vehicle access to both sides. We were set for an unforgettable experience.

We had a few false starts with the weather unleashing rain and driving wind on us for days, as was to be expected in May. The plus side was it gave us plenty of time to prep everything. We had two teams, each with radios and different pulley systems, to haul across webbing that we had spent a day connecting to more webbing— between six of us we only just had enough to bridge the gap.

We spent hours walking the valley to lay out the tagline we would use to haul the webbing. We had so much prepared and ready that we even found time to sit by the indoor fire and play cards, climb the abseil tower, take walks down to the creek, and take turns on a zipline that ran parallel to where we planned to rig.

Finally, the weather cleared up. We were on. Like a well oiled machine we jumped to our positions and started rigging—only to find that our haul system was nowhere near adequate. There was no way we would have the strength to pull this line across.

Not to worry, we thought, we'll attach it to the Prado and use that to haul! We had heard of “mechanical advantage” but this was a whole new level—sitting in aircon and hauling a 520m line by pressing down with your big toe was beyond luxurious.

OPPOSITE: NICK PONTIN ON THE LINE THIS PAGE: CARMEN SCHOENJAHN AND JACK GOOCH; CARMEN IN THE HEART OF AN APPROACHING STORM. AUTUMN 2024 51

FEATURE GLIDING THROUGH THE SKY ON WA’S LONGEST HIGHLINE

NOT TO WORRY, WE THOUGHT, WE'LL ATTACH IT TO THE PRADO AND USE THAT TO HAUL!

ROB BURNETT MAKES THE FIRST WALK OF THE LINE ON THE SUNDAY MORNING. EARLY BIRD CATCHES THE WORM WHILE THE REST OF THE CREW SLEPT IN.

52 AUTUMN 2024

ANYTIME. ANYWHERE. Introducing the next generation in UHF CB Radios, the XRS-660.

Built with a suite of new features including a Colour TFT LCD screen, Bluetooth® audio connectivity and built-in GPS functionality inside a rugged chassis featuring IP67 Ingress Protection and a MIL-STD810G rating, the XRS-660 is our toughest and most advanced Handheld UHF CB Radio yet.

gme.net.au/getxrs

FEATURE GLIDING THROUGH THE SKY ON WA’S LONGEST HIGHLINE

Now rigging a line like this is one thing, but being the first person on it is a different mindset. Much to our surprise and joy, property owner Graeme had his hand up to be the first to stand on it. He had never slacklined and was nearly retired. We couldn't say no, but we did hold our breath while his slightly seized knees quivered as he stood upright on the anchors, proclaiming himself the first person to stand on the state's longest highline. An absolute legend who's truly stayed young at heart.

The first person to actually “walk” on the line was Jack Gooch—a super accomplished athlete and a very good slackliner. He looked as smooth as butter as he walked from one side to the other, dismounting on the far side and coming back with the conclusion, “yeah it's actually pretty nice to walk on, super chill”.

He has got to be one of the coolest cats for staying present in big moments. The rest of us followed his lead and took turns playing, posing, shaking, and trying to stay present as we crossed the culmination of all our hard work.

Yet another unusual feature of this line is that spectators could walk the valley beneath the highliner and almost have a conversation with them the entire way, watching them glide through the sky just above the Jarrah tree tops. It's fitting that for something that took such a team effort, the resulting line provided a real social experience.

By the end of the weekend, as is often the case, all the fun had to be packed up and the camp prepared for the visiting clients the following day. As we drove away, all that was left were the imposing anchors still standing tall at each end, presumably to be used as a reference point for the landowners' stories. We felt very privileged to be able to spend our time playing and bonding in such an unusual way, and also very grateful for the team effort required to make it happen, including the unprecedented support from Graeme and Sonia Watson.

Thanks to all the crew, including Nick Pontin, Jack Gooch, Carmen Schoenjahn, Matt Bray, Terence Chan, David Coppins, Rob Burnett, Jeremy Shepherd and the friends and family of everyone who came and had a beer, had a go, or had a look.

TOP TO BOTTOM: ROB BURNETT GETTING THE RIG OUT ON A BEAUTIFUL WINTER DAY; NICK PONTIN HOLDING THE TAG LINE AS IT SPANS THE EXPANSE ACROSS THE VALLEY; TERENCE MICHAEL "WIZARD" CHAN GOES FOR A WALK ON SUNSET.

54 AUTUMN 2024

PERFORMANCE AND THE MENTALGAME

FEATURE

VERTICAL LIFE CHATS TO HAZEL FINDLAY 56 AUTUMN 2024

ISSUE 46 | VERTICALLIFEMAG.COM

RECORD-SETTING UK CLIMBER HAZEL FINDLAY HAS LONG BEEN WELL-KNOWN FOR HER BOLD ASCENTS. WITH AN INTEREST IN PSYCHOLOGY, SHE’S ALSO DUG DEEP INTO THE MENTAL GAME BEHIND PERFORMANCE. HAZEL’S KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERTISE ARE GOLD FOR CLIMBERS AND ASPIRING CLIMBERS EVERYWHERE, AND WE ARE BEYOND THRILLED TO BRING YOU SOME OF HER INSIGHTS INTO HOW TO HONE YOUR OWN PERFORMANCE, ON ROCK AND IN LIFE. Vertical Life: You’ve always been known as a bold climber. How naturally did the psychological elements of climbing come to you, and how much did you learn as you went?

Hazel Findlay: Because I started climbing when I was younger and my Dad mentored me I got a bit of a headstart with learning how to be comfortable on the wall. But people often don't know that I was very scared of falling when I was a teenager, to the point that I almost gave up climbing for field hockey.

I still get scared now, so I don't think I am 'naturally' bold, I think I've learnt how to manage it. I think that I've paid more attention to my psychology and learned skills along the way, but it wasn't until I started studying fear management and sports psychology that I started creating structured ways of managing different fears in climbing.

VL: Do you have any pivotal moments that changed your mindset?

HF: I think most climbers go through a phase of starting climbing with a beginner's mindset—everything is fun and they have very few expectations of themselves. Then, as they get better, their ego becomes attached to feeling good at something and achieving. This isn't a great mindset for learning and growth, and a key moment for me was when I realised I had to learn to crack climb.

We don't have many cracks in the UK so I didn't learn to jam growing up, and when I did encounter a crack I did my best to avoid it because I didn't want this weakness to be exposed and to feel like a bad climber. But I knew that I wanted to climb in places like Yosemite so I knew I had to learn. I forced myself to do it, but it was a painful experience and hard on my ego.

Now I understand that it makes more sense to lean into your weaknesses, let go of the ego and prioritise learning over achievement—but at the time it was a struggle! What's funny is that now people think of me as a great crack climber!

Another shift was when I learnt how to focus on the process when climbing a project and not just the outcome. I had many experiences where I would be very excited at the start of a project, but then when I felt like I 'should have done it already' I would put a lot of pressure on myself, start to feel negative and climb badly. I realised that this would happen when I was too focused on the end result without valuing the process.

OPPOSITE: ON HALLUCINOGEN WALL IN BLACK CANYON OF THE GUNNISON. PHOTO BY CHRISTIAN ADAM. THIS PAGE: SUPPLIED BY HAZEL FINDLAY.

NOW I UNDERSTAND THAT IT MAKES MORE SENSE TO LEAN INTO YOUR WEAKNESSES, LET GO OF THE EGO AND PRIORITISE LEARNING OVER ACHIEVEMENT—BUT AT THE TIME IT WAS A STRUGGLE! When I picked Magic Line (a 5.14c trad route) I knew that I needed to be focused the whole way through, so I worked a lot on being less attached to the outcome and more invested in the process. I set myself process goals (for example, mindset and physical training goals) alongside the goal of completing the climb. This worked really well and I was able to be super focused for the whole month that I tried the climb—and I managed to send it on the last day of my trip.

VL: There’s a whole art and psychology around the mental elements of climbing… When did you start to learn about that, and how did it affect your own climbing?

HF: I've always had an interest in psychology but it wasn't until I read Arno Ilgner's book 'Rock Warrior's Way' that I realised you could specifically train the mind for climbing.

But it wasn't until I had a bad shoulder injury in 2015 that I put more time into studying, received mental training coaching and trained as a performance coach.

This work certainly helped me achieve big goals, but I think the main thing is that it adjusted how I achieved those goals.

Instead of feeling like I needed to achieve or having the process of achieving that goal be stressful, everything became lighter and more freeing. I was able to be happy and confident even if I failed, and I was able to see all my efforts as learning opportunities and this in turn allowed me to climb better. Don't get me wrong I am still working on many aspects of my mindset but these are some of the changes I saw.

AUTUMN 2024 57

FEATURE PERFORMANCE AND THE MENTAL GAME

VL: Can you tell us about a significant climbing goal that you needed to use specific mental training to achieve?

as opportunities. So I worked on these beliefs, I trained super hard and it paid off—I was able to do the climb relatively quickly.

HF: In 2022, I climbed a route called Esclatamasters (graded 9a). All my life I felt like my identity was more around being an adventurous climber than a hardcore sport climber or boulderer who trained most of the year. I also felt like I didn't have the best body type for high-end sport climbing.

But the real value came not from the achievement but from working on these beliefs because these sorts of limiting beliefs affect me in other areas of my life too, such as business. I never thought of myself as good at business—I came from a family who had very fearful beliefs about money, but I wanted to reach as many people as possible with our mental training products.

Because I'd been getting better at noticing self-limiting beliefs I noticed this and thought that trying a really hard sport climb would be a good way to work on them.

When you work a lot on your mental training you start to see barriers 58 AUTUMN 2024

This required me to be brave and creative with how I scaled my coaching. Nowadays most of the coaching I receive is around mindset for my professional life rather than for climbing performance as this is where I see the biggest capacity for growth.

ISSUE 46 | VERTICALLIFEMAG.COM

VL: How does developing performance in climbing flow on to other elements of life?

HF: One of the main things that our students say is that our courses have helped them in the rest of their lives and that the skills they have learnt in the courses are completely transferable.

This is one of the reasons I am so passionate about mental training.

While stronger fingers are unlikely to help you much in broader life, being able to manage fear of failure, manage expectations, speak more kindly to yourself, remove limiting beliefs, adopt a growth mindset, learn how to set goals without being too attached to the outcome (just a few examples) are things that will help you in the rest of life and could even change your life completely for the better.

INSTEAD OF FEELING LIKE I NEEDED TO ACHIEVE OR HAVING THE PROCESS OF ACHIEVING THAT GOAL BE STRESSFUL, EVERYTHING BECAME LIGHTER AND MORE FREEING. I WAS ABLE TO BE HAPPY AND CONFIDENT EVEN IF I FAILED ABOVE: DEEP WATER SOLOING IN MALLORCA, SPAIN. PHOTO BY MATTY HONG. AUTUMN 2024 59

FEATURE PERFORMANCE AND THE MENTAL GAME

VL: There are a lot of elements to climbing, but power and technique tend to get more attention than mental training…

Why is this?

HF: Mental training is very much neglected not only in climbing but more broadly, and there is an obvious reason for this - the physical world is tangible and much easier to measure and understand compared to what's going on in our thoughts and emotions.

But just because something is hard it doesn't mean it's not super valuable.

With our course, Performance Hacks, I've tried to make it as logical and accessible as possible without losing the depth and nuance that is so key to psychology. What I often see is that leveraging the mind for performance is one of the most effective interventions a climber can do. So many climbers spend all their time, money and attention on physical training but then don't even maximise that physical capacity because they are scared to fall, scared to fail or have other mental barriers that prevent them from being at their best. I see climbers in the Performance Hacks course not only climb their hardest grades, but also have a lot more fun and meaningful moments in the process!

Learn more about performance psychology with this free training by scanning the QR code below.

TOP IMAGE: SUPPLIED BY HAZEL FINDLAY. BOTTOM IMAGE: IN BLACK CANYON OF THE GUNNISON. PHOTO BY CHRISTIAN ADAM.

60 AUTUMN 2024

FEATURE

62 AUTUMN 2024

ISSUE 46 | VERTICALLIFEMAG.COM

AORAKI IN A DAY WORDS BY ALASTAIR MCDOWELL IMAGES BY ALASTAIR MCDOWELL AND GENÍS ZAPATER BARGUÉS

ALASTAIR CLIMBING THE NORTHWEST COULOIR OF AORAKI LOW PEAK, THE DRAMATIC HOOKER FACE AND SUMMIT RIDGE BEHIND AUTUMN 2024 63

FEATURE AORAKI IN A DAY

After struggling with high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE) in the Himalaya, NZer Alastair McDowell was slow to rediscover the joy he once took in mountaineering. Then a chance message from a Spanish stranger helped reset his path with a new challenge.

WE PREFERRED TO FAIL IN GOOD STYLE THAN TO SUCCEED WITH A SLEW OF SUPPORT. strong-willed whole-hearted Sherpa people.

Attempting Makalu in the off-season (post-monsoon) without Sherpa support or oxygen provided us with a clean, empty mountain—not a soul to be seen—and a genuine challenge that we relished. We preferred to fail in good style than to succeed with a slew of support.

But my first mountaineering experience to the truly high alts, with its desperately thin air, left my spirit deflated. More than anything in the mountains, I simply love to move. Light and fast journeys are my favourite style. I had hoped my fitness honed at lower altitudes might translate to the Himalaya, but the debilitating effects of HAPE reduced me to a halt. On the glacier, every kilogram carried was a nightmare. One day it took five hours to travel one kilometre.

Throughout the mountaineering progression, it often feels like each harder and higher ascent is inevitably taking us in one direction: the Himalaya. The ultimate destination for an alpinist. But this first Himalayan encounter had not lived up to my lofty expectations, leaving me disillusioned.

I returned to NZ feeling weak with lungs scarred from the dry air, wondering what to make of this experience, rethinking where my passions lay with mountaineering. Some weeks later, regaining my strength in NZ on a hike in the Canterbury foothills, the pace slowly picked up and something happened. My lungs filled with the oxygen-thick air, and rich and powerful blood surged through my body. My legs began to move. My arms thrust force through carbon poles into the earth. The mountain was moving beneath me.

My passion for the mountains was returning, through the simple exercise of moving fast, upwards, unencumbered. Yes! A few days later, I received an unexpected Instagram message request from a Spaniard, Genís Zapater Bargués: “Hola Alastair! So our plan is to go Mount Cook! Do you have some fresh info?”

I was stricken by the infamous “Khumbu Cough”. At 7200m on Makalu, late in the day at the top of our fixed ropes, I doubled over in another convulsing fit, coughing so hard I felt I was about to vomit. I was developing symptoms of high-altitude pulmonary edema.

My partner Hamish Fleming choked down a gel to moisten his equally hoarse throat.

“How you feeling mate?” I asked.

“Absolutely fried.”

Matt Scholes and Matthew Clark descended towards us in bright orange down suits. Being Australian, they had more high-altitude experience than us two Kiwis. (Without easy access to the Southern Alps, they had instead travelled to the Andes and Himalaya.) They were acclimatising faster than Hamish and I, and had climbed ahead to the col. But they were forced to retreat from Makalu La (7450m), blown over by intense wind rushing over the pass. With just enough time to squint into Tibet they decided: this was no place for man.

As we descended into sunset, a golden consolatory glow was cast over Everest and Lhotse to the northwest, reminding us of our fortune to be playing among such giants. It really is a privilege to be in the Himalaya, to witness the golden light cast upon the titans, and to experience the rich Nepalese culture. Our eight-day approach to Makalu took us from the isolated lowland villages, through lush leech-infested jungle and dahl-baht fuelled yak pastures, hosted by 64 AUTUMN 2024

Who is this guy? I look him up. It turns out that Genís is an elite ski-mountaineering, trail running and mountain bike racer from Catalonia, as well as IFMGA mountain guide and coach for Uphill Athlete. I share with him what I know about the conditions. Some days pass.

“Looks like my partner is kinda cook [sic]. Will you be motivated to do something in the Alps? A day shot is what motivates me more!”

A day shot! I love it. This hombre has some cojones. I would not usually climb a serious mountain with someone I don’t know, but it turns out he used to live and train with Kilian Jornet in Chamonix, so he must be legit. Even though my lungs have barely recovered from the Himalaya, the weather and conditions in the Alps are perfect. I can not resist. I agree to join him.

Genís told me that what would bring him the most joy would be to climb Aoraki/Mount Cook from the village, as tradition dictates.

I agreed: fully human-powered, village-to-summit is the style that motivates me most.

I proposed to him an even grander plan: to undertake the famous Grand Traverse of Aoraki’s three peaks, from the village and back without stopping. The New Zealand alpine bible considers it the “most spectacular and famous traverse in the Southern Alps”.

The Grand Traverse was first completed by Freda Du Faur, Peter Graham, and Darby Thomson in January 1913. At this time, it was regarded as one of the most impressive achievements in world mountaineering. It was first done by cutting steps across its length and without crampons.

ISSUE 46 | VERTICALLIFEMAG.COM

Condensing this route into a single day would take us on a wild ride along the highest peak in the country through a sharp edge, and all this from village to summit and back again, in the purest and most romantic way possible. An ode to all the pleasures that someone who loves the wild kingdom could wish for.

is the crux. The only clear route is a thin ribbon of ice through a narrow weakness in the rock…but after committing to the ice, it shears away in brittle rotten chunks. We climb delicately, all senses activated, aware that the adjacent greywacke is no more trustworthy, and the consequences are now severe.

Two days later, I meet Genís for the first time in Timaru and we drive to Aoraki/Mt Cook village. He has a bronze tan, strong stature, and full of that quintessential Spanish zest that exudes passion and energy. We become friends instantly.

Surpassing this barrier, we are more on edge now, and the effects of such rapid altitude gain and minimal sleep catch up on us. We are soon treated to sastrugi-lined slopes to Low Peak, the first summit, and at once the grandeur of the Grand Traverse is revealed. One mile of outrageously exposed ice slopes, sculpted by westerly winds.

IN A CAFFEINATED HAZE, GENÍS AND I WEAVE THROUGH MORAINES TO THE HOOKER ICEFALL, THE DREADED GLACIAL LABYRINTH. The next day, following a precise strategy, we spend the entire day relaxing at the Canterbury Mountaineering Club lodge in the Hooker Valley, taking in the immense glaciated faces of Sefton and Aoraki.

This relaxation soon comes to an end. At 12:30am, alarm bells ring.

By 1:30am we are jogging up the Hooker Valley track: trail shoes, a lycra skimo suit, helmet, dyneema harness and a 20L running pack containing two ice axes and crampons, 30 metres of 6mm cord, a spare layer, and enough calories for 24 hours of alpine effort.

We dash from boulder to boulder around Hooker Lake, dodging precariously loose scree walls that loom above. In a caffeinated haze, Genís and I weave through moraines to the Hooker icefall, the dreaded glacial labyrinth. The day lightens just enough to elicit passage through the maze of crevasses. ¡Vámonos!

We have now transitioned from shoes to mountain boots and crampons, and loaded up with 2.5L of water that must last us the entire traverse over Aoraki, to the Tasman valley. But we don’t think too far ahead. We are too busy focussing on our rhythmic cramponic crunch up the western wall leading ever steeper towards the base of the Northwest couloir: our access to the peak.

A rock band just below the West Ridge slows our rapid ascent. This

From a distance, it seems Middle Peak has melted out into a near vertical wall with no obvious route. The curveballs keep coming.

But we are too committed to contemplate retreat—the only way down is up and over.

This is mountaineering: with clenched jaw, steady, careful and deliberate movement carries us along the corniced ridge, always wary of the thousand plus metre drop either side. In our minds, the famous Whymper quote echoes, “Do nothing in haste; look well to each step; and from the beginning think what may be the end.”

We reach the high peak of Aoraki, elated, just after 2pm. Always a special moment, the top of New Zealand. ¡Qué vista! But we are only halfway—this is where the grind begins.

We escape the summit rocks onto the Linda Glacier with the help of our skinny 30m rap-line and Beal Escaper. Endless hours of slushy glacier and loose moraine walls take us into darkness. We fight bouts of dehydrated disorientation forging the route home out the slumping Ball Road and eventually, 26 hours later, we reach the familiar Hooker car park, shells of men.

Fifty-five km with 4500m elevation gain of rock, snow and ice have passed beneath our blistered feet and broken bodies to complete this gem. There are only so many mountains worthy of such punishment. But for Aoraki, it’s always worth it.

I’m thankful to Genís for inviting spontaneity and bringing his cabrón energy. Often the best trips are organised on a spur of the moment. For Genís, this adventure was the culmination of his twomonth New Zealand journey, forming the perfect farewell to his antipodean experience.

OPPOSITE: ALASTAIR LOOKING WEST FROM MIDDLE PEAK TO LA PEROUSE AND MT HICKS. THIS PAGE: THE ROUTE TAKEN, STARTING AND FINISHING IN THE HOOKER VALLEY CARPARK . THANK YOU FATMAPS! AUTUMN 2024 65

FEATURE AORAKI IN A DAY

WE ESCAPE THE SUMMIT ROCKS ONTO THE LINDA GLACIER WITH THE HELP OF OUR SKINNY 30M RAP-LINE AND BEAL ESCAPER. ENDLESS HOURS OF SLUSHY GLACIER AND LOOSE MORAINE WALLS TAKE US INTO DARKNESS. He said: “For me, Aoraki/Mount Cook was a mountain that had been capturing my attention for a long time. At 3,700 meters, it is the highest mountain in all New Zealand and one of the tallest in the Oceania region. Beyond its height, its beauty lies in its difficulty, exposure, commitment, and unique morphology—a pyramid traversed by large glaciers broken between the Tasman Sea, its tall and vertical neighbouring mountains, and the frozen rivers forming the bed of the valleys that separate them.”

Genís, who has also climbed in the Himalaya, was impressed by Aoraki despite its modest height.

“This is a small, big Himalayan-serious face. This is as technical as the south face of Lhotse or Nanga Parbat, but at low altitude. Spending 20 hours in hazardous exposure is mentally exhausting,” he said.

“It was a gratifying activity where physical fitness, technique, and 66 AUTUMN 2024

determination were the key ingredients that this activity demanded. It was an intimate, delicate and real experience.”

Far from the Himalaya, I rediscovered my passion for mountaineering right here at home. Free of logistics, cost, equipment, and organisation, sometimes the simplest of adventures are the most satisfying.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP: GENÍS TRAVERSING THE FINAL SECTION OF SUMMIT RIDGE TO THE HIGH PEAK OF AORAKI; ALASTAIR & GENÍS ON THE SUMMIT; THE GRAND TRAVERSE FROM MIDDLE PEAK .

ALASTAIR MCDOWELL is a part time engineer and full time mountaineer and adventurer based in Christchurch, NZ. He loves to travel light and fast and has only been rescued once in the process.

He volunteers with Alpine Rescue Canterbury to earn future karma.

Distributed by:

AU: 02 9966 9800 sales@spelean.com.au www.spelean.com.au NZ: 03 434 9535 sales@spelean.co.nz www.spelean.co.nz

© 2024 - Petzl Distribution - Sam Bié

Climbing is more than just moving on rock. It’s facing endless new challenges within varied and complex geological features. It’s finding the perfect sequence on your route. It’s committing to the next move, even when you’re uncertain how the next hold will feel. Julien and Laurène explore the stunning cliffs along the Seine River in Eure, France, wearing ADJAMA and LUNA harnesses, as well as METEOR and METEORA helmets. Exceptional gear like this allows them to chase unique experiences that only climbing can offer.

Fuddy Duddy? Bloody Muddy! down cups of chino all day long and then burst out on some twomove classic, after months of rain John was keen for something BIG.

L AW HIUMNTO

LAW UNTO HIMSELF

SEL

F

Fuddy Duddy (14) was the obvious line for the apprentice hardman.

I once saw 10 people from the SRC watching somebody repeating it.

What is it? A big easy flake (which slid down 5m soon after) up a wall (pitch 1) followed by an awesome corner crack, which is wide and blank.

The belay method of the day was mildly horrifying to modern eyes—you wrapped the rope around an arm, your back, then the other arm and hung on. Amazingly, no-one was ever dropped whilst on a waist belay (probably too painful). Earlier in history when they said, “The leader never falls”. What they meant was, “The leader never falls and lives to tell the tale”. With the waist belay it was more like, “The leader never falls without being beaten up by their seconds”. Even small falls were much worse to hold than to have happen to you.

The first pitch has faded into insignificance with the passing years, but I’m sure we left our undies on it. The belay was a small chosspile ledge with an anxious looking bolt down at ankle level. While John was arranging his magnificent rack I managed to place my only piece of gear at waist level and clip into it, a little Clog # 0 hex on 4 mm shoestring, just 48 cents from Paddy’s (I was very proud of this and re-tied the knot countless times in class).

Michael Law

-0

FROM THE ARCHIVES

Michael Law

0>

The first 40 feet of corner was wide and unprotectable, ending at a big grass tree. The rest of the corner looked easier (because it was further away). Off he went, armed with a rack of weird-arsed gear and a head full of heroic ideas. This was John’s idea of a good time, but he did keep stopping and throwing his big MOAC wedge (twice as big as your thumb) at the fist gobbling crack and being disappointed by the results. After a bit of frenzied tossing, he resumed laybacking like a man of steel.

10 feet down and 30 to go.

IT WAS A DIFFERENT TIME WHEN MIKL LEARNT TO CLIMB AS A SCHOOLBOY. IT WAS A TIME BEFORE THE MODERN GEAR THAT WE KNOW AND LOVE TODAY MADE CLIMBING JUST THAT MUCH SAFER. BUT DESPITE BETTER HARNESSES, BELAY DEVICES AND PROTECTION, FUDDY DUDDY—THREE PITCHES, 95M, AND NOW GRADED 15–CONTINUES TO TERRIFY BLUE MOUNTAINS TRAD CLIMBERS TO THIS DAY. The following piece is an edited extract from Michael Law’s memoir, Law Unto Himself, Open Spaces Publishing, 2013.

I’d guess the date was 1972, the highpoint of the modern climbing era, when John Croker and I stood beneath the awesome gash of “Fuddy Duddy”. From where we were it looked about two inches shorter than Everest, and would probably take a wee bit more huffing and puffing.

My glorious leader, John Croker, was the gentleman climber of Sydney Grammar School, and my mentor in things vertical (he once let me place a R.U.R.P. in a scrap of sandstone in his backyard). I was a few years younger and about half his height and weight.

Rain, rain, rain. A very wet summer followed by more rain. Unlike the current breed of climbers who are content to sit about and suck 68 AUTUMN 2024

All I could really see was bum and boots as he shuffled up the crack, some poxy break on the edge of the corner gave him a bit of respite where he could continue playing “toss the MOAC” with the crack. I re-seated the Clog 0 in the crack and wrapped the rope around my left arm.

20 feet down and 20 to go.

Tiring of the MOAC game he resumed his laybacking and got within a few moves of the green oasis of the grass tree. Progress had been slow to this point when suddenly one of his feet slipped in the muddy crack as he was reaching up. As I’d never seen anyone fall off leading before I wasn’t too worried by his apparent disdain for the golden “three points of contact” rule.

30 feet down and 10 to go.

The adrenaline generated by the muddy boot spurred him into action, the next 10 feet to the grass tree was a piece of gymnastic excellence, smoothly executed, high speed laybacking. I didn’t know he had it in him.

He grabbed the grass tree with one arm, two arms, and then threw a leg over the top of it and tried to lever his carcass on top of it. Finally, he gave up trying to transfer his carcass onto the grass tree and started reaching for the lucky MOAC again. With a sad, wet sucking

ISSUE 46 | VERTICALLIFEMAG.COM

noise, the grass tree pulled out of the mud and launched John and a lot of muddy rubble across the heavens.

As John rode the grass tree like a witch, silhouetted against the sky, it was briefly very quiet and peaceful. As he drew level with me, suddenly everything started happening very fast and he disappeared down the gully below.

There was a hot, fast, screaming sound as the Kinnears #4 nylon hawser sped through my hands and cut into my school jumper.

I didn’t seem to be retarding his progress much until a tangle wrapped around my hand and locked the system, and myself, up totally.

This is where the account stops. I’m told that after a few minutes of me being unable to move, John got off the rope and stopped me having a rope grafted permanently to my back. Some climbers came up and freed me from the biggest knot they’d ever seen.

John got himself some more gear and moved on to become the legend that we all know today. I got into trouble at boarding school for cutting up a new jumper and I wouldn’t second anyone for two years. I never saw the Clog 0 (or the MOAC) again.

One climber later said that he’d watched John’s plummet from the base of Narrowneck; it took so long that it was like watching the fall of the Roman Empire. I got in trouble for melting a new school jumper to my back. Sometimes John sends me an email on the 6th August saying thanks for hanging on.

MIKL ON ROY'S CRACK (14) BOOROOMBA A YEAR OR TWO LATER, STILL USING THE GEAR OF THE DAY: BIG BOVVER BOOTS, WAIST LINE ONLY, A FEW BIG NUTS, NO GEAR TILL THE TREE, AND NO FASHION SENSE EITHER.

MIKL LAW is an old climber who was introduced to climbing in 1970, and introduced to fear in the early 90s. He still faffs around on rocks and thinks he’s cool.

GEAR FOR HERE Carlie LeBreton on Narcosis (30) at Thompson’s Point.

Photo Khanh Huynh.

mountainequipment.com

DIRECTORY | We have introduced this new section to make space in Vertical Life for our community partners.

To book these contact: zac@adventureentertainment.com

Superstrand LT

Your local eStore

Shop the trusted year-round insulator hoodie & vest

e n i l n O Shop local @

outdoorestore.com.au

OR

outdoorestore.co.nz

Purchase here!

X.03

STAXCLIMBING.COM.AU

TALE OF WHOA

ISSUE 46 | VERTICALLIFEMAG.COM

Frog IN A FROQ (WITH A ROCK)

WORDS BY LOUISE SHEPHERD

Climbing safety is everyone’s responsibility, and it’s something our editorial team are incredibly passionate about. Our Tale of Whoa column is our continued commitment to creating a culture of safety within our community.

Last spring we introduced readers to Jacinda Boully, the brains behind Frog in Froq (pronounced “frock”)—an annual fancy dress trad climbing event at Frog Buttress.

This issue, Louise Shepherd delves into a safety learning that happened to occur at that very event.

On the weekend of August 20, 2023, Frog Buttress turned into a vertical fashion parade—albeit with all of the models wearing helmets. Classic lines were festooned with climbers wearing brilliant flowing dresses, op shop specials and homemade creations.

Frog in a Froq, organised by a group of Brisbane trad queens, is an annual celebration of trad climbing. It has a strong message around encouraging women to get on the sharp end of trad.

Saturday started with the obligatory group photo shoot for sponsors, followed by a talk on safety, community, and environmental stewardship. The masses then departed for their chosen climb. I headed for the left hand end of the cliff with my friends Nic and Clive. It was a busy area. There was Jacinda waltzing up a fist-offwidth-chimney in a cream steampunk wedding dress with slits to the waist (essential for accessing her rack of giant cams), belayed by Liam in a pink tutu. Nic started up Winston Alley, but found she couldn’t get her slings over her head with bunny ears perched on her helmet. Clive, who was enjoying a rest day, swanned around the base of the cliff snapping photos.

After seconding Nic on Winston Alley, I dragged our ropes over to the nearest rap chains above Horse-drawn Zeppelin. Three climbers were already there. Ellie was just leaving the ledge on rappel, while two AUTUMN 2024 71

TALE OF WHOA FROG IN A FROQ (WITH A ROCK)

of her friends, both novices, waited their turn. The 20-metre abseil should’ve taken Ellie only a minute, but after 10 minutes the ropes were still weighted. Something was wrong. I decided to rap off the tree above Electric Mud. On my way down, I saw the reason for the delay. Ellie had almost rapped off the end of her rope. Fortunately, she had utilised a back-up prussick or it would’ve been ugly. I flicked her my rap ropes and she was able to self-rescue.

Then I spotted Clive sitting down a few metres away with his head swathed in blood-soaked bandages. A pebble had rolled off the eroded ledge system above Horse-drawn Zeppelin, and it had hit Clive in the head. He hadn’t been wearing a helmet. Riley, a young climber on the scene, had done a beautiful job bandaging Clive’s head.

Riley was the kind of person you’d like to have around during a crisis.

They were exceptionally calm. They were in the army where they did frequent first aid courses, and they’d just completed a refresher. And they had a well-stocked first aid kit in their climbing pack. Clive lucked out in that respect. He ended up with five stitches in his head, courtesy of the Boonah Hospital, a good outcome given the circumstances. A bigger rock could’ve killed him, or resulted in lifelong brain damage.

I was curious about the other near-miss. Ellie said she had called out to her friend Marie at the base of the cliff if her rap ropes were on the ground. Marie, a beginner climber, had answered yes, but she had been confused and distracted—Clive had just been hit by the pebble, and blood was pouring down his face. To add to Marie’s confusion, there were ropes everywhere. Another rope was flaked on the ground, and 30 metres of Ellie’s 70-metre rope was on the ground, while the other end of the rap rope was dangling eight metres off the ground.

72 AUTUMN 2024

Inexperienced climbers usually err on the side of caution when setting up abseils. If they have a 70 metre rope but only a 20 metre abseil, a novice will diligently thread 35 metres through the chains. But Ellie’s guesstimate of 20 metres was way short of the mark. She hadn’t put knots in the ends of the rope as a precaution, but relied on a beginner’s feedback. Fortunately, she had used a back-up prussick.

Accidents and near-misses sometimes compound. Clive’s head injury contributed to Ellie’s near-miss. The Frog in a Froq festival meant that the easier and moderate routes were crammed with climbers—many of whom were novices, creating a cacophony of voices and a morass of ropes. Frog Buttress is notorious for its loose scree, and Clive, with four decades of climbing under his belt, knew better than to leave his helmet in his pack.

Even at Arapiles/Dyurrite, the occasional loose rock becomes a deadly projectile. At busy times, carabiners and cams are dropped from on high, especially from popular areas. I frequently see experienced climbers wearing their helmets whilst leading, but leaving them off whilst belaying, seconding and top-roping.

Leave your helmet on! Your brain could thank you.

(Note: some names have been changed).

IMAGES SUPPLIED BY LOUISE SHEPHERD AND JACINDA BOULLY LOUISE SHEPHERD | Louise (also known as Lou, she/her) has been climbing for 40 years and guiding for 35 years. Back in the 70s, there was no trad or sport, it was all just climbing and the culture was to toss beginners in at the deep end. Louise survived this brutal baptism and now teaches trad lead climbing rather differently than the way she learned. She works with The Climbing Company in Dyurrite.

WHY WINDBURNER? Efficient ULTRA FAST BOIL. Compact ALL IN ONE. Options FOR EVERY TRIP.

®

WindBurner® Stove Systems A LEGACY OF INNOVATION © Scott Rinckenberger

• Pressure regulator for constant canister pressure • Windproof for faster boil times ® using less fuel • Powerful heat exchanger maximises heat transfer • Radiant burner with amazing boil to simmer control • Nonstick cooking pot and skillet options • Coffee Press Kit available as an accessory Pictured: WindBurner® Personal Stove System

Discover more:

02 9966 9800

sales@spelean.com.au www.spelean.com.au

GET A FREE PASSAGE DINNERWARE SET (RRP $49.99) When You Subscribe or Renew To Vertical Life Magazine*

✓ NEVER MISS AN ISSUE ✓ GET FREE DELIVERY TO YOUR DOOR ✓ GREAT GIFT IDEA ✓ CHEAPER THAN BUYING AT RETAIL OUTLETS (SAVE UP TO SAVE $42.40 ON A 3 YEAR SUBSCRIPTION) ✓SUBSCRIPTIONS SUPPORT THE CLIMBING CREATIVES ON OUR PAGES TO KEEP SHARING THEIR STORIES- THAT'S SOMETHING TO FEEL GOOD ABOUT!

FOR A LIMITED TIME, VERTICAL LIFE MAGAZINE IS OFFERING A FREE SEA TO SUMMIT PASSAGE DINNERWARE SET, WORTH $49.99, TO THE FIRST 100 CUSTOMERS WHO SUBSCRIBE OR RENEW THEIR SUBSCRIPTION. The Passage Kitchen Collection is a 2023 Australian Good Design Award Winner.

This dinnerware set is not only practical and durable, but it's also stylish, lightweight and perfect for any meal, whether you're in the mountains, on the beach or exploring the city!

•

Built for both seasoned and novice outdoor enthusiasts

•

Lightweight, versatile kitchenware that's stackable for easy, space-efficient storage

•

Built with food-grade, glass reinforced polypropylene, which is hard-wearing and cut-resistant

•

Easy to clean, microwave, dishwasher-safe, and BPA-free

Subscribe here subscribe.verticallife.com.au 3 Years - 12 issues - $125 (save $42.40) 2 Years - 8 issues - $89.95 (save $21.65) 1 Year - 4 issues - $49.95 (save $5.85) *Offer is available to selected cinemas for Australia and New Zealand residents only.

For full Terms & Conditions, head to SUBSCRIBE.VERTICALLIFEMAG.COM.AU

Subscribe & get a FREE passage dinnerware set!

(RRP $49.99)

GEAR

NEW GEAR ARC’TERYX SKAHA HARNESS Ska may be out, but the Skaha has only just landed. Introducing the successor to Arc’teryx’s C-Quence harness, featuring a new look, new technology, and a very attractive new weight - under 300g! The Skaha sports a 150 denier honeycomb warp knit mono mesh Spacermesh™ lined waist belt with Warp Strength Technology™…

No we didn’t make those words up, and no we don’t know what they mean. Luckily for us the gear gurus at Arc’teryx HQ do, and that’s why the Skaha will disperse pressure and provide flexibility for all-day comfort at the crag. It also features 4 solid gear loops, a non-structural 5th loop, wear safety markers on belay loop & tie-in points, fixed leg loops, and replaceable leg loop elastic for easy repairs.

RRP: $280 Available now at Arcteryx.com.au

ARC'TERYX GAMMA GUIDE PANTS It may be autumn here, but it’s definitely winter somewhere specifically the USA, Canada, & most of Eastern Europe (unless you’re reading this in April). So if you’re looking for a bomber pair of softshell pants for the alpine, then Gamma Guide pants have you covered. Made with the needs of guides and mountain professionals in mind, these things are designed to take an absolute beating. Featuring a double weave of Arc’terxy’s Burly™ softshell material at the seat and thighs, and a lighter Recycled Wee-Burly™ behind the legs, the hybrid design balances more durability and water repellency where you need it, and more breathability where you don’t - and helps keep weight down to 560g. Add harness-friendly zip pockets, zippered hem gussets for boots, an integrated belt, and you’ve got one hell of a set of pants - just try not to wear them in autumn.

RRP: $400 Available now at Arcteryx.com.au

SO ILL CATCH In case you haven’t heard, Fred Nicole has been working with the team at So iLL to put out a new line of performance climbing shoes, infused with that distinct 'je ne sais quoi' we've come to expect from his work with Five Ten - and his latest addition is no exception. Introducing the Catch, a moderately downturned, hand-shaped slipper with a stiff midsole and full-length XS Grip outsole. Soft shoes are great, but when things get thin you need a bit of stiffness to really power down on those micro edges, and this is exactly where the catch thrives. The midsole consists of two parts, a 1.5mm full-length fiberboard and a 0.7mm thermo melting board midsole under just the toe box, making for a more nuanced stiffness suitable for both the gym and your outdoor projects. Given the 3.5mm XS Grip sole I would also expect the Catch to suit a variety of rock types, and just like the Stay and Street, it’s made from vegan microsuede.

Bonus: We’ve also heard whispers of another Fred Nicole special in the works…all we know is it’s called the Torque and it’ll probably be mega!

RRP: $239.95 Available now at Climbinganchors.com 76 AUTUMN 2024

ISSUE 46 | VERTICALLIFEMAG.COM

PATAGONIA TRIOLET JACKET It seems every time we open our computers Patagonia is working on something groundbreaking in the outdoor clothing industry. Their latest mission? To remove perfluorinated chemicals (PFCs) from their waterproof fabrics without compromising performance - including the serious business alpine wear. And after almost 10 years of working with Gore-Tex to achieve this, they’ve finally cracked it! The updated Triolet is one of several technical alpine pieces to now feature a 3-layer Gore-Tex ePE (expanded polyethylene) membrane, delivering the same high standard of performance without the use of long-lasting perfluorinated chemicals on any of the fabrics, membranes, or finishes. We’re currently testing another one of the new 3-layer Gore-Tex ePE jackets, so keep an eye out for a full review soon.

RRP: $699.95 Available now at Patagonia.com.au

EDELRID PINCH By now most climbers are familiar with assisted braking belay devices with a camming action and maybe an anti-panic function. This is not what’s special about the new Edelrid Pinch though, it’s the other details that have us excited. The first, and coolest, thing that sets the Pinch apart from every other ABD is the option to clip it directly to a belay loop…without a carabiner! This offers a few advantages: it removes the risk of cross-loading, allows for left or right handed use (due to the way you interact with the brake mechanism), allows more rope to be fed out in one go, and gives a ton of options for clipping it into a belay station. There’s also the option to disable the antipanic function (using the screw provided), meaning you won’t need a second device if your local gym requires said function, but your climbing partners won’t stop whinging about it. It’s also certified for use in some rope access and tree work situations, but we’ll let ‘Arborist Life Magazine’ cover that stuff. It weighs 234g and is suitable for dynamic ropes from 8.5mm to 10.5mm.

Bonus: It can be used without a carabiner in a pinch…get it?

RRP $229.95 Available soon at stockists near you

TNF SUMMIT SERIES FUTURELIGHT PAPSURA JACKET They say the best camera is the one you have with you, and I think the same applies to hardshells. For those going fast and light, it can be tempting to abstain from carrying some essentials in favour of a lighter pack. But thankfully at just 224g, the Papsura means you have no excuses not to carry a hardshell -even as a ‘just in case’ on a bluebird day. This lightweight, highly packable 3L hardshell has been designed for high-output adventures in the alpine and is the epitome of gear meant for the modern alpinist. It features underarm gussets for mobility, zippered hand pockets, internal mesh & internal gear loop pockets, seamless shoulders for comfort under a pack, and the ability to stow away into its right-hand pocket.

RRP: $700.00 Available soon at Thenorthface.com.au

AUTUMN 2024 77

GEAR

FROM THE Field

LONG TERM REVIEW

ARC’TERYX CORMAC HOODY REVIEWER: SULE MCCRAIES

RRP: $130 Pros: • Versatile • Good moisture management • Climber friendly cut Cons: • Stitching at seams prone to catching

When it comes to sun hoodies, the Cormac is best described as a jack of all trades, master of none. Out of the six sun hoodies I own (I’m an addict), it doesn’t beat them at any particular trait, but it performs high enough in almost all of them that it’s often the one I grab.

FIT: My pet peeves when it comes to climbing tops are sleeves that are too short and hems that untuck from my harness; thankfully the Cormac suffered from neither of these flaws.

I found the Cormac to run a bit on the larger side (size L) with a more “flowy” cut, this combined with the “Atmos Heather” colour made me feel a bit like Timothée Chalamet in Dune. This felt very different from my BD Alpenglow Pro which opts for more of a snug and stretchy approach to sizing. While the Cormac material is somewhat stretchy, it’s on the lesser side compared to other sun hoodies (not a negative, just worth noting for comparison). The sleeves feature thumb holes, which add a few extra centimetres in length for lanky climbers like myself. In terms of comfort, the Cormac scores highly, especially the flatlock-esque seams which do a good job of going unnoticed when wearing a pack.

FUNCTION: The best-performing sun hoody I’ve worn to date (for moisture management) was made from Polartec Power Dry®, which did a tremendous job of wicking moisture away from my skin and somehow always managed to feel dry - even when it was wet.

78 AUTUMN 2024

Best suited for: • Those wanting a versatile sun hoody with high UV resistance (UPF 50+), good moisture management, and a low stink factor to use as a standalone or base layer in a range of conditions.

The Cormac has a similar ability to feel ‘dry’ as moisture builds, scoring high for moisture management - unsurprising given it’s mostly polyester. This ‘dry’ sensation also means the Cormac doesn’t do the best job of cooling the wearer compared to a more damp-feeling fabric like the BD Alpenglow Pro. I found myself much happier wearing the Cormac in hot and windy conditions compared to hot and still. This makes sense given the Phasic LT material, which feels ‘middle of the pack’ when it comes to breathability/ air-permeability. This is both a pro and a con, meaning you’ll sacrifice some hot weather performance for a layer that’s still useable when things get cold and gusty.

The Phasic LT material is something I really enjoy about the Cormac. In addition to feeling comfy against the skin, it’s quite light, meaning the Cormac only weighs 160g - impressive considering how durable the material itself feels. Unfortunately, the flatlock seams aren’t so durable. The way they’re stitched means the threads are a bit exposed on the outside of the hoody, and tend to catch on rough surfaces like rock, pulling the threads a bit. This hasn’t been a major issue as a standalone layer while climbing, but I’d be cautious around those granite offwidths. In terms of sun protection, the Cormac is tied with the BD Alpenglow pro at UPF 50+, leaving other hoodies behind at a mere UPF 40/30/15. I’m also happy to report this sun hoody performs well when it comes to stink factor! Synthetic baselayers are never going to smell great, but some of them can smell truly awful in a relatively short amount

of time. I think this is the least smelly of all my sun hoodies after a few days of use, but I’m yet to get a second opinion from a willing participant.

In terms of features, you don’t get many frills, the Cormac sports a very simple design with no chest pockets, mesh armpits, quarter zippers, or integrated buffs to speak of - though the hood does have some neck coverage. The only features to speak of are the thumb holes in the sleeves and the helmetcompatible hood design, which feels nice both with and without a helmet, over and under it.

At $130 I think you get enough bang for your buck, the Cormac is similarly priced (slightly cheaper) to options from Patagonia and Black Diamond, and slightly more expensive than Outdoor Research.

FINAL THOUGHTS: The Cormac isn’t breaking new ground or looking to excel in any particular area, it’s just a well-executed design that makes for a versatile sun hoody in both warmer and cooler conditions. For those not looking to own six sun hoodies like yours truly, this would be a solid choice to cover most of your needs with one purchase.

Overall, I’d rate it 4.1 out of 5 blue offsets.

ISSUE 46 | VERTICALLIFEMAG.COM

FROM THE Field

LONG TERM REVIEW

BLACK DIAMOND METHOD S

REVIEWER: SULE MCCRAIES

RRP: $229.99 Pros: • Excellent smearing & pasting ability • Great value performance shoe • Camo heel colour Cons: • Annoying toe patch texture • Camo heel colour

While the Method S might share a name with Black Diamond’s original Method (the green ones), that’s just about all they share. The two are quite different shoes. How are they different? Well, if I had to guess what the “S” stood for in Method S, my money would be on “soft”. This shoe is the rubber-clad vision of climbing powerhouse Seb Bouin, brought to life by Greek resoling royalty George Vlahandreas (of Fixarock).

Best suited for: • Those with mid-high volume feet looking for a soft and sticky performance shoe for bouldering indoors/outdoors or more specific sport routes that involve a heavy dose of pasting and smearing.

was the super elastic knitted sock upper, which made the Method S feel like I was actually wearing a sock! One downside to this is that you shouldn’t crank too hard on the front pull-tab, but the same is true for shoes like the Tenaya Mastia. My other favourite feature was the design of the heel tabs, which connect directly into the lining of the heel. This makes it extremely easy to get these shoes on and off my heel. I now wish all of my performance shoes had this feature.

FIT: The Method S is a moderately downturned, slightly asymmetrical shape, and undoubtedly high-volume shoe (especially through the forefoot and heel) with a tall toe box to accommodate more aggressive levels of toe curl from a performance fit. The first thing I did upon receiving the shoes was force everyone around me to try them on, especially people with weird feet resembling the shapes of Doritos or pencils. Much to our surprise, they seemed to fit everyone’s feet reasonably well.

Given how soft and elastic the build is, these shoes have a very accommodating fit (if sized appropriately) and feel surprisingly comfy for a performance shoe. Even the heel, which was a bit too high volume for me, felt secure and predictable during heel hooks, though a bit imprecise at times… and coming from me, that is high praise. I went half a euro size down from my Butora and Unparallel size and got minimal stretch (1/3 of a euro size).

FEATURES/DESIGN: One of my favourite features of the Method S

Speaking of things I like, here’s something I don’t like…the toe patch. While the rubber coverage for toe hooks & scums is good, I’ve found the “ribbed” texture to be unnecessary and actually quite annoying during more technical toe hooks (a friend joked that it was ribbed for my dis-pleasure). Thankfully this improved as the toe patch has worn down, but is worth noting. The sole features 3.75mm of BD’s own Black Label Fuse rubber. I’ve found it to feel a bit stickier than XS Grip 2, Trax SAS, and Unparallel RH. This rubber is also featured on the camo heel, a style choice that may be polarizing for some; I happen to like it, but not everyone will.

FUNCTION/USE CASE: If I had to sum up the Method S in one sentence it would be “soft and springy”. This shoe is quite soft, at both the mid and toe, making it exceptional at volume running, pasting and smearing. Naturally, this comes at the cost of edging performance. There is a horseshoe midsole to add some support for smaller foot chips and edges, making these

more versatile than something as soft as a Scarpa Veloce or Furia Air. But I would still classify these shoes as “specialised” rather than all rounders. I’ve really enjoyed using these as an indoor bouldering shoe, particularly for smearing on volumes when climbing more “comp style” problems, as well as the toe grabbing ability on steeper terrain such as board climbing. In terms of sport climbing, I would suggest pairing the Method S with a stiffer pair as part of a quiver, unless you plan to jump on specific routes like ‘India’ at Arapiles/ Dyurrite or ‘Chicane’ in the Grampians/ Gariwerd where glassy smears are a given.

FINAL THOUGHTS: The Method S offers great value for those wanting a soft performance shoe at a more affordable price. They feature some clever design choices that make for a relatively comfy and very accommodating fit. The soft midsole and toe mean they excel at smearing and pasting, but at the cost of edging performance, making them a more specialised shoe rather than an all-rounder. Regardless of your thoughts on Black Diamond’s previous shoes, the Method S is the best climbing shoe BD has made to date, and a worthy option at the price point.

Overall, I’d rate it 4.3 out of 5 blue offsets.

AUTUMN 2024 79

FIND YOUR INNER BREW TM

www.aeropress.com.au

ISSUE 46 | VERTICALLIFEMAG.COM

BETA & BREW

ICED AEROPRESS RECIPE Climbing in summer can be a struggle, particularly for those with sweaty skin like myself. As if my tips weren’t bad enough after a 1-hour approach on a 30C day, I then add to the chaos by cracking open a thermos of scalding hot send juice (AKA coffee). Why do I do this? Because Wolfang Güllich said so!

This leaves me with a few options. I could lug a Makita fan to the crag and drink my coffee in front of it, I could drink a tube of Antihydral alongside my coffee, or I could just brew some iced filter coffee and save myself a phone call with the Poisons Info Hotline.

Some people also brew coffee the day before and leave it in the esky/fridge, but I find coffee starts to taste a bit stale and nasty if it sits around for that long.

- Sule (VL’s Resident Coffee & Gear Nerd)

BEST FOR: •

Climbers who brave the hot summer conditions.

YOU'LL NEED: • • • • • •

Aeropress and paper filters [Optional] AeroPress Flow Control Filter Cap or Fellow prismo 20-40g of good coffee (ground finer than usual) 100-200g ice (pre-frozen in a Nalgene) A scale (I assume you have one by now) A timer (pssst, there's one in your pocket)

METHOD: STEP 1.

This recipe uses a 1:15 ratio of water to coffee…However, a third of this ‘water’ will actually be frozen water added afterwards (aka ice) and the other two-thirds will be hot water used to brew. So for 20g of coffee, you’ll need to use 100g of ice (I prefer to freeze some in a Nalgene) and 200g of hot water.

Note: If you don’t want or don’t have ice, then just brew all the water and chuck a few frozen Hexes in your cup afterwards (that’s all they’re good for anyway).

AUTUMN 2024 81

BETA & BREW ICED AEROPRESS RECIPE

STEP 2.

Throw your ground coffee (20g) into Aeropress and shake to make a flat bed of coffee. Make sure you’re brewing the regular orientation (cap facing down). You can either brew into a cup first or just straight into your frozen Nalgene.

STEP 3.

Start your timer, pour in your boiling water (200g), and give a few good stirs in a crisscross pattern.

Note: if you’re not using a Flow Control Cap or Fellow Prismo then insert the plunger a bit to create a vacuum and stop the liquid from dripping out.

STEP 4.

Pick up the Aeropress and give it a gentle swirl to level the coffee bed, then let it steep for around 5 minutes. 4 is fine, 6 is fine, 8 is fine… but 3, 7, & 9 are illegal!

Note: A longer steep also helps the coffee cool down before touching the ice (or frozen Hex).

STEP 5.

Insert the plunger and start pressing gently, making sure to keep everything level - this should take around 1 minute to do.

Note: Make sure to let the coffee sit and melt some of the ice before drinking, otherwise it may taste too concentrated.

Beta & Brew is proudly supported

by Aeropress.

BETA: Tastes too acidic or sour?

• Grind finer • Use less ice and more water • Steep longer Tastes bitter/ashy?

• Grind coarser • Use more ice and less water • Stir/swirl more gently Too dilute?

• Lower your ratio to 1:14 or 1:13 coffee to water

82 AUTUMN 2024

DRAGO / DRAGO LV

SENSITIVITY HOOKING DRAGO is the ultimate sensitive slipper, a perfect choice for the modern climber with extended rubber coverage on both the toe and the heel, ideal for all hooking possibilities.

To locate your nearest stockist I T: 1300 784 266 sales@outdooragencies.com.au I www.outdooragencies.au

The new lineup

Online & in-store at Alexandria NSW & Fitzroy VIC

M A D E I N C O L L A B W I T H F R E D N I C O L E & J A E J U N G . L - R : S TAY R V - S TAY LV - C AT C H - S T R E E T LV - S T R E E T R V - T O R Q U E R V

EVERY DETAIL MATTERS