Outdoor - Sept Oct issue

Page 1

new look mag!

PLUS

kimberley crusade Tackling the Kimberley by land, sea and air

top 10 mtb hacks Make your bike lighter, faster and smoother

epic shootout

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Eight top head torches battle it out

sept-oct 2017

$14.95

SECRET TASSIE Discover

secluded patches of paradise beyond the tourist trail


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THE PROGRESSOR COLLECTION

BIG WALL LAYERING SYSTEM The Progressor Collection enables you to move lighter and faster on big days in the mountains. This system of interactive layers is designed to work together to deliver weather protection in any environment and any output level so you can stay focused on your objective and trust your gear. The North Face Climber Lee Cossey | Bungonia Gorge, NSW | Photographer: Kamil Sustiak

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NEVER STOP EXPLORINGâ„¢

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contents regulars ed's letter Welcome to the new Outdoor

Meet the outdoor team This issue's crew of intrepid storytellers

news The latest from the world of adventuring

new gear All the gear for your next outdoor challenge

last shot South Mission Beach, Queensland

adventure

22 34 50 58 64 82 102 116

06 08 12 16 130

gear tests Lander Moab iphone case What's cooking? That'll be the phone

salomon Sense Pro Max Feel light on the trails in these bold runners

head torch shootout Eight head torches put to the drop and drown test

19 20 110

East Coast Tasmania Discover the pristine hiking trails of paradise

taking on the old ghost road A mountain bike track not for the faint of heart

kimberley crusade by sea Part one of a journey inspired by an Aussie legend

kimberley crusade by air Nothing beats a view from the top

kimberley crusade by land Outback exploration the classic way – by 4x4

three lakes challenge Three kayakers vs three of the UK's longest lakes

overcoming mt stuart When bad things happen on great climbs

Volcano views Taking in the golden sunrise atop Bali's Mt Batur

guides mountain bike hacks Go faster with these handy maintenance tips

the sharp edge Find the right knife for your outdoor kit

paddle pilot What to know before you buy a kayak

road trippn' tips Inspiration to make you never come back, Jack

44 74 90 122 COVER: The Neck, EAst coast tassie PHOTO: Mitch Cox

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EVERY TRIP ENDS WITH DREAMS OF THE NEXT THE NEW TRANSPORTER DUFFEL Sandy beaches and vermillion cliffs. Dragon boats and streaked limestone. Faraway places. The New Transporter Duffel features the dependability you expect in a variety of volumes to make sure your gear survives, there and back.

T: 1300 784 266

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ed's letter Sydney, Australia, September 2017

, It s a new dawn for Outdoor.

G

’day, I’m Jack Murphy and I’ll be your guide for the next hour or two. Lace up your hiking boots, get your feet on the pedals, clip in your carabiner and grab a paddle, because you’re about to get an adrenaline hit. If you’re not inspired, motivated or excited to do something (or everything!) in this issue, then I’ll go back to my childhood job ferrying wealthy boat owners with large hats to their even larger, expensive fibreglass boats. But don’t make me do that – I much prefer this job. I’m seriously chuffed to be at the reins of Outdoor Outdoor. When it all started more than 20 years ago, I was still in nappies. Neoprene ones. You see, I’ve always been a bit of an outdoor entrepreneur and storyteller. From this issue you’ll notice plenty of fresh faces and a big design makeover. If you can’t get to these destinations, hopefully the visual experience in front of you will take you there. There are great yarns on human-powered adventures, incredible tales about inspiring people and breathtaking destinations. You’ll meet characters like Corey McCarthy, whose climbing expedition on Mt Stuart goes to custard when he gets lost. It’s an exhausting, unplanned, all-night adventure that sees him witness two sunrises without a break in movement during the entire 24-hour period. We also send our gadget guru Dan Slater to torturetest eight head torches in a battle of battery life, luminosity and value for money. We’ve cut back on the cash for comment, and thrown in some no bull reviews and gear shootouts 'cause we know you love that stuff. Me? I throw on the backpack and head across the Kimberly by land, sea and air on an epic, month-long adventure that saw breakdowns, tropical cyclones and plenty of secret waterholes. We also cover everything from what to pack, where to go and how to catch dinner along the way. OK, enough from me. Turn the page and start exploring the new adventure that is Outdoor.

W ho's w ho EDITORIAL Editor Jack Murphy Deputy Editor Natalie Cavallaro Senior Designer Brendon Wise Content Operations Danielle Beadman Contributors Andrew Bain, Mitch Cox, Dan Everett, Ashley Gray, Scott Heiman, Patrick Kinsella, Corey McCarthy, Anna Pastukhova, Dan Slater, Mark Watson. Editorial and News 125 Hawthorn Rd, Caulfield North, Vic, 3161 Australia submissions@adventuresgroup.com.au

DIGITAL Product Owner Will Dolman will@adventuresgroup.com.au Digital Content Manager Leah Glynn leah@adventuresgroup.com.au Digital Content Manager Katrina Minchenko katrina@adventuresgroup.com.au Marketing marketing@adventuresgroup.com.au Partner Marketing Manager Lauren Grigg lauren@adventuresgroup.com.au

ADVERTISING ENQUIRIES sales@adventuresgroup.com.au www.adventuresgroup.com.au Head of Partnerships Christopher Jefferson 0477 775 020 chris@adventuresgroup.com.au Partner Manager Eleanor Rattray 0402 135 296 eleanor@adventuresgroup.com.au Victoria/South-East Rowena Lyrijis 0428 950 936 rowena@adventuresgroup.com.au Renee Bordieri 0429 018 098 renee@adventuresgroup.com.au New South Wales/Qld/WA Serena Prasad 0429 489 615 serena@adventuresgroup.com.au Danielle Gowan 0435 065 325 danielle@adventuresgroup.com.au National Agency Christopher Jefferson 0477 775 020 chris@adventuresgroup.com.au National Partnerships Andrew Wilson 0437 034 003 andrew@adventuresgroup.com.au Private Advertising www.tradervs.com.au/sell Customer Support support@adventuresgroup.com.au

EXECUTIVE GROUP Chief Executive Officer Robert Gallagher rob@adventuresgroup.com.au Chief Financial Officer Matthew O,Meara matt@adventuresgroup.com.au Content Director Travis Godfredson travis@adventuresgroup.com.au

SUBSCRIPTIONS Phone: 1300 692 383 (ext. 3) Email: subscriptions@adventuresgroup.com.au Web: www.outdooraustralia.com/magazine

ADVERTISING TERMS & CONDITIONS www.adventuresgroup.com.au Outdoor is printed in Australia. Outdoor total printed copies: 6500

Outdoor is published by Adventures Group Holdings. ACN: 155 672 192 ABN: 29 155 672 192 All material in Outdoor is protected by the Commonwealth Copyright Act, 1968. No material may be reproduced without written consent. Distributed by Gordon & Gotch. Printed by Bluestar Web, 83 Derby Street, Silverwater, NSW 2128. ISSN 2205-0515

Jack Murphy

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THIS ISSUE’S EXPEDITION TEAM Accompanying the fresh new design for Outdoor, is a swag of exciting adventure tales brought to you by our intrepid crew of storytellers. We put the following questions to them, to test their outdoor credentials. Q1. Where’s your base camp? Q2. What’s your outdoor speciality? Q3. You’re about to be stranded in the Amazon rainforest. You can take one item with you, what is it? (no EPIRBS or satellite phones!) Q4. What’s the most epic trip you’ve been on?

MITCH COX

PATRICK KINSELLA

Mitch is an Aussie photographer chasing perfect light and unforgettable locations. His current project is exploring his own country’s unique brilliance in a self made campervan, along with his partner in crime, Cleo. Hiking, kayaking, surfing and skating their way around their island home, the couple have plenty of stories to tell.

Pat has written about his outdoor adventures for two decades. He's canoed Canada’s Yukon River, climbed Mont Blanc and Kilimanjaro, skied and mountain biked across the Norwegian Alps, run an ultra in Mauritius, and set speed records for trail-running Australia’s highest peaks and New Zealand’s nine Great Walks. A former editor of get lost, Wild and Outer Edge, he’s a longtime contributor to Outdoor and a regular writer for Lonely Planet. He’s also authored two books about walking in England’s South West.

A1. I’m currently living out of my van, so you can find me parked up near a beach somewhere on the east coast of Australia. A2. I’m all about hiking – it’s the only way to get the most remote locations, and all you have to rely on are your own two feet. A3. Definitely a camera, I'd want to document the adventure! A4. Driving across remote Northern Territory, along endless and unforgiving 4WD roads – in an overloaded 2WD van.

A1. Devon, England. A2. Trail running, mountain biking, and paddling. A3. A machete. I’ve been to the Amazon. It’s a jungle out there… A4. The Yukon River Quest – 714km of virtually non-stop paddling.

COREY MCCARTHY

SCOTT HEIMAN

Born in the concrete jungle of Chicago, raised in the woods of Wisconsin, and discovered in the mountains, Corey is a child of the natural world. He currently fills his time with mountains, books, his Sony mirrorless camera, and dreams of adventures. He’s currently waiting for his great American road trip to begin.

With nearly 25 years in the Army and as the son of a surveyor, Scott's been trekking a course through untamed scrub since he was a kid. A professional remote area operator, field-craft expert, environmental scientist and former Federal Police instructor, Scott’s happiest in a bivvy bag under the stars.

A1. My 1996 Ford E-150 Clubwagon which I converted into a travelling home. I generally spend spring and summer near Smith Rock State Park in Oregon. A2. Rock climbing, both at the crag and in the mountains. A3. A good quality machete seems like it might be the most useful thing to have on hand. A4. A three month journey through Bali, Borneo, and Nepal. What stood out the most was hiking the Annapurna Circuit.

A1. Canberra, ACT. A2. Bushcraft and survival A3. The Heiman Hatchet, the original survival blade that I designed. A4. Walking the Inca Trail with my new wife in 2008. When she was diagnosed with cancer mid that year, our best route to recovery was a highly competent doctor, and an intent to undertake this iconic trek six months later. Nine years later, and now with a six and a half-year old daughter, we haven’t looked back.

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ANDREW BAIN

DAN SLATER

Andrew can usually be found walking (or cycling, or kayaking) when he should be working. He’s the author of Headwinds and Where to Ride Tasmania, and lead author of Lonely Planet’s Cycling Australia and Walking in Australia. He’s unwittingly smuggled goods across the China-Russia border, shared his bed with a crocodile in the Northern Territory, and been deported from Estonia. He lives with his three bikes and two children, which may say something about his priorities.

Dan has spent the best part of his life in the outdoors, either for work as a trek leader and travel writer, or for pleasure, exploring as much of the planet as he can. He’s currently writing for all the best outdoor magazines, working on his third book and moonlighting in the country’s premier outdoor gear store. You can keep up to date with his adventures at www.thisisnotaholiday.com.

A1. Newtown, Sydney, NSW A2. Mostly hiking, but also mountain biking and kayaking. A3. A baseball bat to kill the mosquitoes. A4. Relatively short, but still epic – last year I was the first man to run the complete circumference of Easter Island (70km). It took me 11 hours.

A1. Hobart, Tasmania. A2. Walking and cycle journeys. A3. A Kindle loaded with hundreds of books. A4. Once upon a time I cycled around Australia – 14 months, 20,000 kilometres, and hundreds of thousands of good memories.

ASHLEY GRAY

DAN ‘THE STUNT MAN’ EVERETT

A former World Cup mountain bike racer, Ash has competed nationally and internationally for more than 15 years. He also has over a decade of experience working as a bike mechanic and as a mountain biking instructor. Now an outdoor educator, he guides groups, teaches outdoor skills and inspires future adventurers.

Dan, a suspension freak, has freelanced for RV and 4WD magazines for more than five years. The self-declared ‘gear head' has rebuilt more trucks and rigs than his age in years. He often travels the east coast with his young family between gigs, and has spent plenty of time tackling those big dream destinations.

A1. Dandenong Ranges, Victoria. A2. Mountain biking and hiking. A3. If something can’t be fixed or made with zip ties, it’s probably not worth having. A4. Hiking the Larapinta Trail in the middle of a Northern Territory heatwave. We had to carry nine litres of water each day, and my trip companion was my elderly dad. By the end I was nearly carrying him too! The desert scenery was awe inspiring and teeming with life.

A1. The glorious Blue Mountains, NSW. A2. My adventure speciality is a swag strapped to an adventure bike and a full tank of fuel, although I do have a 29er mountain bike and a garage full of kayaks. A3. I never head bush without a good knife. A4. A few years back I flew into the US with my wife and a backpack. We bought a $1000 30 year-old Ford Van, then drove from LA to Miami, zig-zagging along the way to visit as many national parks as possible.

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THIS ISSUE’S EXPEDITION TEAM

ANNA PASTUKHOVA

NATALIE CAVALLARO

A passionate video director with a keen interest in the outdoors, Anna got an early start in the travel media industry, when at the age of 16 she had her own Australian travel column in a Russian newspaper. The travel bug really bit in 2010 when she left Brisbane to live in Berlin. She then added more than 20 countries to her ‘been there done that’ list. Before joining Adventures Group, she shot and edited the nationally broadcast Foxtel travel show G’Day SA Travel.

Nat’s first adventure was at age 10, when she put a few snacks in a tea-towel tied to a broomstick and hit the road on foot with her siblings. However the food ran out and someone lost a shoe, so they cut the journey short. These days, she’s (slightly) more prepared before travel. With 10 years’ experience as a journalist across newspapers, magazines and television, Nat swears by the motto ‘take the risk, live the adventure, tell the tale’.

A1. Melbourne, Victoria. A2. I’m a jack of all trades, master of none. I probably do more hiking than anything else. A3. My guitar. I won’t be bored plus I can use it for firewood. A4. Horse riding in the Ural Mountains in Bashkiria, Russia and rafting down mountain rivers to get back to base.

A1. Melbourne, Victoria. A2. Hiking, especially the snack breaks. A3. A lighter for fire to cook the fish I catch, and purify the water I find. A4. Sailing from French Guiana to Suriname and Guyana in a Yarmouth 23. Dodging speed boats while paddling, bird chirping battles, and jungle village nightclub dancing - good times!

MARK WATSON

Australian adventure photographer Mark Watson suggests his job is “not so glamorous,” but his out of office email will inform he’s heliskiing New Zealand or trekking Patagonia. In his downtime you can find him surfing and mountain biking. He’s a Nikon and Elinchrom Ambassador and a North Face photographer.

A1. Northern Beaches, NSW A2. My introduction to action photography came through skiing and snowboarding. I enjoy sea kayaking and diving, mountain biking and occasionally canyoning. A3. My old and battered Leatherman Wave. A4. I've camped in a Patagonian valley, flown headlong into a speeding undular bore cloud in an ultralight and camped atop a remote glacier in Alaska. Our natural world offers up so many experiences, I've given up rating them.

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BEYOND THE INCA TRAIL

We’ll take you away from the 'pack' and into truly remote wilderness, on big adventures with a small footprint.

PATA G O N I A > Geologically fascinating and well protected. Ask us about The Great Patagonian Traverse and other unique adventures in this rugged and remote trekker's wonderland.

SALCANTAY > lose the crowds on our alternative trek to Machu Picchu.

MAIN IMAGE: Huayhuash, Peru | Ken Harris BOTTOM MIDDLE: Salcantay, Peru | Ivan Parise BOTTOM RIGHT: Huayhuash, Peru | Matej Mejovsek

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worldexpeditions.com • 1300 720 000

beautiful – you won't regret the effort of this high altitude trek.

ATAS NO A10684

Trek with the experts

H U AY H U A S H > challenging and

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Ne Valley,

PHOTOS: TSERING LAMA

Join adventurer Heather Hawkins on an incredible Nepal trek

Can you trek it? Yes, you can

N

ot only can you trek Everest Base Camp, but if you get in quick, you can do it alongside ultra-marathon runner Heather Hawkins. She will return to Nepal in October, following her 1700km trek across the Great Himalaya Trail last year. The 23 day circuit trek to Gokyo Lakes and Everest Base Camp will raise vital cash for the Can Too Foundation for cancer research. It’s a cause close to the adventurer and author’s heart, after she fought life-threatening ovarian cancer in

her early 40s. Just five years on, she has conquered an incredible 17 marathons and three ultra-marathons. She can lay claim to being the female winner of the North Pole Marathon, and completing the World Marathon Challenge – seven marathons in seven days on seven continents. Be inspired by Heather's resilience and adventuring spirit during the tough circuit trek, which will see you visit the village of Namche Bazaar, stay overnight in Khumjung, and take a return

Himalayan mountain flight from Kathmandu to Lukla. The fully supported camping-based trek departs Kathmandu on October 17 and bookings close on October 15. Participants are required to raise a minimum $3000 for the Can Too Foundation. For more information regarding cost and trek inclusions, visit www. humacharitychallenge.com/CharityChallenge/Nepal/Can-Too/Heather-HawkinsEverest-Can-Too-Challenge

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Trekking towards Phortse, Gokyo Valley, Nepal Photo:T SImon rekking Alsop

towards

Phortse,

Gokyo

news


Ne Valley, Gokyo Phortse,

S

ure, MONA is cutting-edge, and Brun y Island's cheese and pinot noir are mouth-watering, but the jewel in the crown of the Apple Isle is its wilderness. Sink your teeth in to the state's landscapes Tassie devil style, on this 38 day trek, powered by your own steam, covering the length of the island. Head out on The Great Tasmanian Traverse and experience Penguin to Cradle, The Overland Track, Frenchmans Cap Track, Franklin River Rafting and the South Coast Trek. The inaugural, fully-guided journey will start at the beginning of the Coast to Cradle Trail in the north and finish at Cockle Creek, Australia's southern most town. Passes range from moderate to challenging, so it'll please even the most hardcore trekkers, and there'll be plen ty of time for cheese and wine when you finish. The first departure date is in February 2018. Visit www. tasmaniaexpeditions.com.au.

Trekking towards Phortse, Gokyo Valley, Nepal Photo:T SImon rekking Alsop

towards

, Tassie s top five

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Discover the Overland Track as part of an epic Tasmanian adventure

PHOTOS: MARK WHITELOCK

SYDNEY 491 Kent St (02) 9264 5888 CHATSWOOD 72 Archer St (02) 9419 6955 WWW.MOUNTAINEQUIPMENT.COM

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26/8/17 12:30 pm


Paul Pritchard

REBIRTH ON THE ROCK After a devastating accident climbing Tasmania's Totem Pole altered the course of his life, renowned climber Paul Pritchard was forced to draw on the reserves of determination years on the mountains had instilled in him.

H

ere’s a tip on how to get schooled in living for the moment – take your lesson from legendary UK mountaineer and rock climber Paul Pritchard. On your darkest day, if you heard him speak about recovering from his life-changing accident climbing Tasmania’s Totem Pole, you’d be hard pressed not to feel at least a glimmer of optimism. On his recent speaking tour, ‘Beyond Doing it Scared’, Paul spoke of his life pre and post accident, his “rebirth” on the Totem Pole, and what keeps him planning new expeditions. It’s gripping stuff and not because it’s a tale of “disability defying all odds”. His is the story of the spirit of adventure, and how once it’s in your blood stream, it can’t be killed. Was it this indomitable spirit that saved Paul on the Totem Pole, or was that just the hand of good fortune? Either way, hearing him speak about the 1998 climb had everyone in the room hanging on every softly-spoken, Lancashire accented word. During the climb, a television-sized boulder fell 30m and hit Paul on the head. The result was a catastrophic brain injury, hemiplegia (paralysis of half the body), and the end of the life this cutting-edge adventurer had known. For some, the accident and the excruciatingly slow recovery would have been the start of a downward spiral into deep depression. For Paul, it was the reason to draw on the strength, resilience and patience he’d been taught by years of scaling mountains, along with his robust sense of humour. With this determination, he faced the Totem Pole again and climbed it 18 years after his accident, the journey the focus of a short film, Doing it Scared. “I think I was always a pretty positive person,” Paul said. “But all the lessons I learned in the mountains about patience, determination and acceptance showed me that a realistic attitude works best. It is realistic to be positive. “Also, if you are not determined you would never get up a mountain because 99 per cent of it is misery and hard work!”

Paul’s first taste of the freedom, commitment, and fear that climbing offered and demanded came early, at age 10. “My mum took me to the Isle of Arran in Scotland, where we went mountain walking,” Paul recounts. “We got stranded whilst traversing the fabled ‘Witches Step’ when she dropped onto a narrow grassy ledge with about fifty body lengths of air below her, and I followed. “We could not climb back up. I saw that we just had to keep following the line down as there were no alternatives. There was no freedom of choice, and through this fear I felt truly free.” After this, a climb led by a school teacher at the

“Fear is meaningless... being scared or being calm, the result will be the same.”

age of 15 at a local quarry reignited that feeling. “It was the first time I was good at anything,” Paul said. “I was dreadful at team sports and used to vomit on cross country runs.” Marathon running was obviously out of the question, but these experiences were the genesis of a long and illustrious career as one of Britain’s leading climbers of the 1980s and 1990s. Paul travelled the world, sought new and big climbs, and embraced the creativity and freedom the lifestyle encouraged. In his words, he “lived for the rock”. However the bigger the climbs, the bigger the risks and Paul admits he was “going down a dangerous road”. “The accident made me take stock.” But it was a painful intervention. After a dramatic rescue from the Totem Pole, emergency brain surgery, an induced coma, and the better part of a year spent in a wheelchair learning how to walk and talk, followed. A lifelong adventurer, Paul was faced with a journey he had no experience in but he treated it just the same as the mountains he’d climbed. He faced the challenge head on and as he recovered, he began to plan a new expedition – climbing Mount Kenya. He documented his entry back into the world of mountaineering in his 2005 book, The Longest Climb. After Mount Kenya, the adventures continued for Paul, climbing Mount Kilimanjaro, caving, river rafting, and eventually, a return to lead climbing. A new challenge is happening right now. Paul and five friends all with varying disabilities are riding human powered tricycles 2000km from Australia’s lowest point Kati Thanda (Lake Eyre) to the highest point – the summit of Mount Kosciuszko (2228m). Paul will team up with his friend Duncan who is blind, on a tandem recumbent bike. “I am only half joking when I say ‘I’ll be your eyes if you will be my legs’’, Paul said. “By working together we will form a strong team, cooperating so each individual is able to go beyond his usual boundaries.” Natalie Cavallaro

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PAUL,S TOP FIVE CLIMBS

2

El Regalo de Mwomo, Torres del Paine, Patagonia was my first ‘big wall’ climb. The 1.2km vertical face took us three weeks sleeping in portaledges (a cross between a stretcher and a hammock that hangs from a single point). Here, hanging on the wall in a raging storm, maybe facing the most terrible consequence, I learned acceptance. Fear is meaningless, in all situations. Being scared or being calm, the result will be the same.

3

Hyperborea, the first ascent of the West Face of Mount Asgard, Baffin Island. There is a lot of creativity in making first ascents of mountains and rock walls. Here we spent 11 days finding a way up a seemingly blank wall inch by inch. On close inspection there was a system of fl akes and seams that ran intermittently from the bottom to the top of this kilometre high wall in the land of the midnight sun.

2017

4

Plache di Baonne, Arco, Italy. The world's first ‘no frontiers’ climbing wall. The climbs here are wheelchair accessible with climb names and grades written in Braille. The route I chose had eight metre run-outs between bolts, so if I fell making a clip I would fall 20m. I was so scared, the photographer could hear my heart beating. But I calmed down and started to look at myself while my body climbed. I had searched for this experience in my first life. Difficulty in life is relative.

TRAVELLERS’ CHOICE AWARD

NO.1 HOTEL IN AUSTRALIA

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The Totem Pole, Cape Hauy, Tasmania. 19 years ago I had a catastrophic brain injury on this 4mx65m sheer needle of rock. That accident was the best thing that has ever happened to me, as it fostered in me a vast pool of determination. Last year I returned and climbed it with one hand and one foot. 10 people helped me carry gear, water, food and camera equipment. From this climb I distilled that everyone, disabled or able-bodied, is capable of the extraordinary.

PHOTOS: Paul Pritchard and Matthew Newton

1

Gogarth in Wales was my favourite cliff to climb, a loose frightening complex of zawns above sometimes raging Irish Sea. All the climbs there are serious undertakings, but if I was pressed to choose my top climb it would be The Enchanted Broccoli Garden on Left Hand Red Wall. This is still the only hard rock climb I know of where the belayer could die if her/his leader falls. We used shock tapes to lessen the load on the RP belay. This is where I learned to trust in myself and others.

5 out of 5

Weekend Away Review – January 2015

ocean swim weeks Join Trevor Hendy on our Lord Howe Island Ocean Swim Weeks and enjoy Australia’s best ocean experience – swimming, surfing, diving, snorkelling, kayaking and fishing – and when you’re done, you can relax on the beach or visit the day spa. The week is for experienced ocean swimmers who enjoy a challenge by day, and some luxury by night. Book our Ocean Swim Week in 2018 and discover why so many swimmers return to Pinetrees. Please call (02) 9262 6585 and quote ‘Outdoor’.

lord howe island • another world • close to home

Contact Pinetrees Travel on (02) 9262 6585 or visit pinetrees.com.au 15

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ut it te d o "G e t k t u r nex fo r y o " e ur a d ve n t

new gear

ECO FLOW TECH

River battery charger When Hunters & Collectors penned When the River Runs Dry, they clearly weren’t referring to the River battery charger from Eco Flow Tech. It runs a light for 100+ hours, a fridge for 10+ hours – hell, even an electric guitar for 20+ hours. It’ll also give you 80+ GoPro recharges, 30+ phone recharges or 4-8 drone recharges. So how does it do it? The River is rechargeable via a wall socket, solar panel or car jack. Once charged, it can power all your gadgets when you’re off the grid. In fact, it’s got so many ports, you can charge 11 devices simultaneously. US$713 www.ecoflowtech.com

ARC’TERYX

WIGMAN

Gamma AR Pant The new Arc’teryx Gamma AR pants are some serious piece of kit. Specifically designed for rock climbing, alpine climbing, hiking and trekking, these soft-shell pants are a must for your next expedition. Made with Burly double weave material, Gamma AR pants are not only soft on your skin, they’re breathable and wind resistant. The outer layer also has a water repellent coating, which according to Arc’teryx provides absolute moisture protection. $300 www.arcteryx.com

Peak 2 Pub Socks are just socks, right? Wrong! American outdoor brand, Wigman have just released their Peak 2 Pub collection, which boast some pretty impressive features. These little babies are said to stop odour, sweat and even blisters with their Ultimax patented moisture control system. That’s right, apparently no more stinky feet in the tent or blisters bigger than Ben Hur – shut up and take our money! $34.95 www.outdooragencies.com.au

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OSPREY

Transporter 40 One pack. Multiple applications. Introducing the Osprey Transporter 40, a rugged, versatile 40 litre bag, which is said to be able to carry any load, no matter how heavy. Now as much as we’d like to test out this claim by carrying a load of gold bullion to the summit of Mt. Kili, unfortunately we just don’t have the budget, so we’ll have to take their word for it. The Transporter 40 also features a full yoke and contoured harness straps, dual-zippered 3D end pockets with overlapping rain flaps, a weatherprotected main compartment zip path, side and lower panel web lashing points and D-ring attachments for adding a shoulder strap (sold separately). $179.95 www.ospreypacks.com

PLATYPUS

DuoLock SoftBottle .75L | 1.0L Ever since the dawn of time, man has been building devices to carry and store water. The banana leaf was bloody inefficient so we had to start making bottles. Fast forward a couple of thousand years and we might finally have found the optimum way to carry water: The DuoLock SoftBottle. This compact, flexible and secure soft bottle is ideal for space conscious hikers as it can be packed down flat when empty. It also features a dual-locking cap that won’t accidentally pop open, and a clip gate handle so you can attach it to a belt strap or backpack loop. BPA-, BPS- and phthalate free. Starting from $22.95 www.platy.com

THE NORTH FACE

Homestead Roomy 2 Two-person tents don’t get much cooler than the Homestead Roomy 2. According to The North Face, this lightweight, easy-pitcher offers 50 per cent more room than a typical two-person tent and also comes with extra headroom. The large aperture of the doors means accommodating an inflatable queen-sized mattress is no problem at all. The canopy fabric is 75D breathable polyester taffeta with a water resistant finish. $500 www.thenorthface.com.au

SCARPA

Kailash Trek GTX Exclusive to Paddy Pallin comes the Scarpa Kailash Trek GTX. Made for anything from backpacking to trekking, the Kailash is a great all-rounder. They feature a water-resistant suede upper, Vibram outsole and a Gore-Tex lining (yep, the same stuff the crew in the Sydney to Hobart Race have inside their jackets). $449.50 www.paddypallin.com.au

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SPOTLIGHT

Smooth moves The last thing you want is gear that holds you back.

L

et’s face it, no one wants to be ‘that guy’ on the rock. You know – Captain Buzzkill who can’t relax and enjoy the ascent because they decided to wear a too-tight down jacket that’s creating a lather of sweat with every movement. With The North Face’s Progressor Collection, your chances of being this person are zilch, thanks to its climate defying multi-layer alpine system. There’s a range for men and women, with four styles available in Australia and New Zealand to encompass base, mid, puff y,

and shell layers: the FuseForm Progressor Shell, Morph Jacket, Progressor Insulated Hybrid Hoodie, and the FuseForm Progressor Fleece Hoodie. That covers off pretty much all weather conditions you could run into. A quick check list of the range’s styles confirms it should help you move freely, thanks to features like Alpine fit, wind protection, waterproofing, pit-zip venting, and abrasion resistant print for durability. And hoods that fit snugly under your helmet are always a winner. Clothing that helps you stay light and fast, and looks slick as well? – get it on and gear up. www.thenorthface.com.au

Based in Aoraki Mount Cook, we are New Zealand’s longest established guiding company. We offer unparalleled support for your adventures across the Southern Alps.

Your Pathway to High Adventure TECHNICAL MOUNTAINEERING COURSE (TMC) 9 days advanced alpine climbing

ALPINE SKILLS COURSE (ASC)

7 day introduction to alpine climbing

MOUNTAIN EXPERIENCE COURSE (MEC) 6 day introduction to mountain skills

CONTACT US

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tested RAT

ED

PROS -Great protection from drops -Sleek, modern style -Textured, large buttons are great if wearing gloves -Strap for extra security

Check ou t t he v ideo at w w w. ou tdoora ust ra lia .com

CONS

The look you get when you realise you probably won't be able to sell this phone on eBay

WORDS NATALIE CAVALLARO PICS ANNA PASTUKHOVA

-Only fits iPhone 6/6s/7 variants so no joy if you’re a Samsung user -The jury’s out on the reflective stitching -Thermoline technology was pushed to the limit at high temperatures

MORE INFO RRP: $59.95 www.drboom.com.au

Procrastination – putting the phone case review on ice

Hard to kill

Outdoor put Lander’s Moab phone case to the test, to discover just how tough it actually is.

I

’ve smashed more than a few phones in my time, but I’ve never cooked one. However, Lander claims its new Moab climate control phone case with Thermoline technology and crush zones is made of super tough stuff, so it seemed like the right time. HOW DOES IT LOOK?

If looks are anything to go by, the Lander Moab had me doubting its credentials, and not because it’s ugly. When I think heavy duty phone protection, I think bulky tradie-style phone cases, safe from being dropped from a Hard Yakka shorts pocket while the builder yells at an apprentice. The Lander Moab case on review was dark purple, with a sleek and simple modern design. It’s also available in black. REFLECTION INSPECTION

The Moab has Illumifind, reflective specks stitched through it which are designed to catch

the light of your torch if you lose it in the dark. So I tossed my phone over my shoulder into my overgrown front garden at midnight. I shone a torch around, and found it, thankfully avoiding my housemate’s dog’s poop in the process. The reflection wasn't very noticeable, so I’m not sure how handy this feature is. COLD CALL

As miserable as Melbourne is in August, it doesn’t snow. So I turned to the coldest place on hand – the kitchen freezer. The freezer was set to -18 degrees celsius, and the Thermoline technology is designed to protect your phone from -17.7 to 48.8 degrees celsius. The Moab kept the phone on for a few hours in the ice tray before the phone turned itself off. However it started up again quickly and all features worked. IT’S COOKED

It was a quiet Sunday evening, so I thought I’d

do a little iPhone cooking. Apple advises to use its devices between zero and 35 degrees celsius. Thermoline technology is recommended for up to 48.8 degrees, so I pushed it a bit and turned the oven to 50 degrees, which in turn pushed the phone to its limits. It showed a temperature warning screen, and switched off temporarily, however it was back in action quickly. SMASHIN’ IT

Drops have to be the number one cause of phone deaths sweeping our nation today. The Lander Moab's crush zones are designed to add extra protection from impact. There was only one way to test it – by hurling the phone from the office’s first storey balcony a few times. Here is where the Moab shone. The case sustained a few grazes but the phone was untouched. I even bowled it down the road and jumped on it in heeled boots, and it withstood the punishment.

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tested

Excellent grip on the Salomon Sense Pro Max lets you confidently fuel your need for speed

New sensation

The Outdoor crew hit the dirt in the new Salomon Sense Pro Max; a lightweight, long distance trail runner that’s extra comfortable.

WORDS AND PICS JACK MURPHY

I

do a mixture of road running and light trail running. In my head, there wasn’t really a need to own two separate pairs of shoes. I currently have a pair of Nike Free Run 2s, they’re a lightweight yet versatile shoe that’s pitched as a minimalistic runner. They’re pretty good; comfortable and flexible, but can be slippery at times and they pick up a hell of a lot of rocks. My main hesitation with owning a pair of trail runners was the weight factor. The extra support and protection also made them look rigid and uncomfortable. However, after one too many ankle snapping close calls over a

particularly wet Sydney winter, I decided something with a little more tread and support was in order. I opted for the new Salomon Sense Pro Max trail running shoes, which were around 300 grams, the same as my Nike Free Run 2 shoes. Straight out of the box the first thing I noticed was the Salomon Quicklace technology. I’m not ashamed to say I had to watch a YouTube tutorial to figure out how to use it. OK, turns out it’s actually really simple and I probably could’ve figured it out if I wasn’t so scared of breaking my brand new kicks.

Having said that, one thing I probably couldn’t have figured out without watching the tutorial was the lace pocket. This sneaky little pocket is located in the tongue of the shoe and it’s where you store the Quicklaces once you’ve fastened them. Time to hit the road. From my place, there’s a 1km section of bitumen to run before you can go off-piste. First impressions were great. There was a massive suspension difference between the Nikes and the Salomans and I didn’t get that bone-jarring feeling in my joints with the Sense Pro Max shoes on. This is accomplished

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Heading onto the trails and boy this is where these babies came into their own The tread difference between the Salomans and the Nikes

with Salomans Vibe technology, which reduces vibrations and delivers a responsive ride. The rigidity of the sole and shoe in general did make me feel less agile, but I’m sure that’s just a teething issue, as I’ve been in minimalistic runners for the past eight years. Heading onto the trails and boy this is where these babies came into their own. The track certainly wouldn’t be considered gnarly by anyone except maybe my grandmother, but it was still a good testing ground with a smallmedium incline, lots of loose gravel and dirt as well as some soft muddy sections. The tread pattern on the Sense Pro Max runners was pronounced. The Contragrip outsole is purely designed for light trails in both dry and wet conditions, so when I took my old runners back out on the same track, it felt like I was running on ice. Along with great traction, the snug fit (or Endofit as Salomon call it) and the extra support, meant they moved much less on my foot when cornering. This is really important when it comes to confidence while at speed on a trail. I’m stoked with the Salomons and at under $200 I reckon they’re a bloody bargain.

RAT

ED

PROS -Super lightweight -Soft and spongy underfoot -Kills vibration - my joints are thanking me already -Great ankle support

CONS -Sole rigidity will take a bit of getting used to -Take in a fair amount of dirt -Not much of a high-vis yellow fan, but on the upside it’ll be tough to lose them Not suitable for ninjas – stand out in the crowd in fluro yellow

MORE INFO www.salomon.com/au

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Adventure East coast Tasmania

Escape to the

east coast The secret about Tasmania,s beauty may be out, but those who trek beyond the tourist trail are sure to be rewarded with secluded patches of paradise. WORDS AND PICS Mitch Cox

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Adventure East coast Tasmania

Hiking Tasmania , s

pristine

east coast

W

e hiked up the fi nal trail to the Neck, and braced ourselves for the gale force winds we’d been warned about, but there was nothing. Not even the faintest breeze. The ocean hundreds of metres below was motionless, its surface like smooth glass. Surrounding us, the rugged cliffs glowed in the warm afternoon light. We had made it to the peak, and it was even better than we had hoped. Hiking Tasmania’s pristine east coast is as varied as it is beautiful. Its south is full of isolated trails winding along desolate, windswept cliffs, whilst in the north, it can almost feel as though you’ve stepped into a tropical oasis, with pure white sands and crystal clear waters. My girlfriend Cleo and I began our exploration of this unique area set on exploring as many locations by foot as possible. What we discovered was that the untouched beauty Tasmania has on offer is mind blowing. Our travels began a few years ago as a two week road trip to escape the winter chill and experience Australia on our own terms, but that trip quickly gave us a yearning for more adventure. Before we knew it, we were on the road for more than four months, skipping the dull Sydney winter. The following year, our travels were extended to seven months, and we quickly saw a pattern develop. We’d been on the road for more than five months by the time we landed in Tasmania, weary yet relieved after the ferry crossing. The previous months had been spent exploring every corner of Australia from the tropical north to the arid south, and we’d hiked our way through all sorts of terrains and conditions. Tassie and its quiet perfection had slowly drawn us south for weeks. There was something about it that just seemed to gel with our style. Perhaps it was the isolation, or the laid-back feeling that seemed to radiate from each town. Whatever it was, by the time we arrived on the east coast we instantly felt at home.

Mount Amos Wineglass Bay

THE FALSE START As we lazily made our way down the east coast, we began to discover the variety of hikes on offer. Our fi rst favourite was breathtaking Wineglass Bay on the Freycinet Peninsula. Th is is an extremely popular area, one of the most visited in the state. However, few really have a chance to take in all of its beauty, with most tourists stopping for a quick look over the picturesque bay before making their way inland. We decided to pack our bags for a slightly more physically demanding version. Our plan was to hike to the peak of Mount Amos for sunrise, for the best view of the bay. The hike itself is not particularly far – 2.5km return – however scaling the slippery and steep slopes makes it more difficult than it looks on paper. After waking up at 3am, with our bags packed and head torches on full, we began the trek up to the peak. I noticed right away the lack of stars, which is rare in Tasmania’s extremely clear skies. Soon after we began the ascent, a fi ne mist of rain formed. As we climbed the increasingly slippery slopes, the mist turned into a steady drizzle, and the granite slope soon became near impossible to climb. After a series of slips and near misses, we made the tough decision to abandon the climb and return to the comfort of our van.

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The Neck is a bloody good spot for snack time

What we discovered was that the untouched beauty Tasmania has on offer is mind blowing

Living the van life at Bay of Fires

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Adventure East coast Tasmania

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As we climbed the increasingly slippery slopes, the mist turned into a steady drizzle, and the granite slope soon became near impossible to climb

On top of the world – capturing the fleeting sunrise atop Mount Amos

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Adventure East coast Tasmania

The only sounds were the gentle lapping of water on the powdery white shore, and the calls of birds in the green forest right behind us SUCCESS AND A FLEETING SUNRISE A bit disheartened but not discouraged, we planned the same trip for the next morning, hoping the rain would have passed. We woke in the predawn hours to that same fi ne mist that had threatened us the day before. We pushed on, and the rain lessened, which allowed us to painstakingly climb the smooth slopes, weighed down with camera gear and hiking supplies. As we approached the summit, we were fi nally able to put our head torches away, and use the dim light to fi nd the perfect location to watch the sunrise. Although the rain had stopped, the clouds were still thick on the horizon, and my hopes of witnessing a cracker sunrise were diminishing by the minute. Just as Cleo scaled a perfectly balanced boulder, a purple glow started to appear in the clouds. With the icy wind whipping at my jacket, I fi red off a few quick shots before the flat grey light returned. We quickly sought out some shelter from the increasing wind in a small cave, and managed to warm up with some hot tea. As we reached the bottom of Mount Amos, we grabbed our overnight packs which we had stashed near the trailhead, and continued to the next stage of our adventure. Our destination was a little known camping spot right on the beach at

Wineglass Bay, which to our surprise was completely free. As the sun climbed higher in the sky and the temperature rose, we made our way past the lines of tourists slowly ascending to the lookout. Once we passed the main lookout, the track immediately became less developed, with no defi ned steps or handrails in sight. When we fi nally reached the famed Wineglass Bay, the cool ocean breeze and the perfect white sand transported us to another world. With our boots packed away, the rest of the hike was completely barefoot on the smooth sand. What seemed like bliss at fi rst soon became arduous, with the soft sand and heavy packs creating a strenuous hike to the far end of the beach, which seemed as though it wasn’t getting any closer. As the sun reached its peak and we had passed all but the most determined of explorers, we fi nally arrived at the end of the beach. We immediately dropped our packs and looked around in wonder. If we thought the start of the beach was perfect, then this was out of this world. The small bay had created an area with water so still and clear, it looked as though it was part of one giant swimming pool. The only sounds were the gentle lapping of water on the powdery white shore, and the calls of birds in the green forest right behind us.

With views like these, you'd be forgiven for thinking you were in the tropics

There’s no fuel in Purnululu National Park, so if you plan on exploring for a few days a spare jerry of diesel doesn’t hurt.

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TREKKING TASSIE: THE ESSENTIALS Water: Tasmania’s pristine mountain ranges provide clean, safe water sources towards the centre of the island, but finding water along the coast can be more difficult. There are fewer freshwater streams, and most of the available water is stagnant and not suitable for drinking. This unfortunately means you have to carry all the water you need for drinking, cooking and cleaning. Pack it correctly, and use it sparingly for cleaning. Jackets: Having a good outer shell jacket is a must for any hike in Tasmania.

Although we were blessed with some perfect weather, it can change at a moment’s notice, and freezing winds and icy rain are always around the corner. A Gortex jacket is your best bet, as they cut out the wind and rain, and stash down to a small size. Keep one in your pack for emergencies, and you’ll have one less thing to worry about when the weather turns on you.

Pack smart: On longer, multi-day hikes, a heavier pack is a reality. However,

correctly packing your bag is going to make things easier, no mater how much weight you have. First up, pack your lighter items towards the bottom of the bag - this might seem counter intuitive, but your upper back is the strongest, and hence heavy items should be towards the top. Sleeping bags, pillows, jumpers and jackets, should be stashed towards the bottom. Next up is your heavier items – tents, extra water, and cooking supplies. Try and pack these items as close to your back as possible. Stuff lighter items behind them to force them right up to the back of your pack. Finally, food, first-aid kits and emergency items should go towards the top. They are easy to access, and you won’t have to repack your whole bag whenever you want a muesli bar.

Cooking with gas: There are hundreds of different types of hiking stoves out there. Most use disposable butane cartridges, but there are also wood fuel, propane, and spirit burners out there. The thing I hate about butane stoves, is that whenever you finish that cartridge, it goes straight into landfill. Whilst not the most hiking friendly stove, I use a Coleman Dual Fuel, which can run off regular petrol. It’s refillable, reliable, and if you plan on hiking to higher altitudes, it will work just fine. It might be a bit heavier, but it works every time and has never let me down. Polariser: One bit of camera gear I think is absolutely essential, especially when

shooting glory oceans or vibrant rainforests, is a circular polarising filter. These screw onto the end of almost any lens, and are designed to cut out reflection. Basically, it makes colours more vibrant and cuts out unwanted reflections to reveal the true clarity of colours. As usual, you get what you pay for in terms of quality, but as long as you pick something within your budget, a CPL will be an extremely useful (and lightweight) addition to your kit.

Tripod: If you plan on capturing some quality images on your hike, a tripod is worth

considering. Although it does add more weight to your pack and can be a pain to strap down to the outside, they can really increase the quality of your images. Waterfalls, low light images and even the good old selfie benefit hugely from a quality tripod. I’d recommend a carbon fibre model. Not only are they considerably lighter than steel or aluminium, they also transmit less vibrations, for an even smoother shoot.

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Adventure East coast Tasmania

As the afternoon slowly drifted away, and the sun made its way towards the horizon, it really felt like paradise

Relief at the end of a strenuous barefoot hike on soft sand

Tasmania delivers postcard perfect moments everyday, like this one atop Mt Wellington

PICKING THE PERFECT MOMENT As the afternoon slowly drifted away, and the sun made its way towards the horizon, it really felt like paradise. What little wind there was dropped off completely, and due to the curve of the bay, the sun set directly over the water in front of us. We had the whole beach to ourselves as we lay and watched the stars slowly appear. Even on one of the most famous beaches in the world, this proved that with a little perseverance, you can have a slice of it all to yourself. The next day we headed further south, along roads that wound along the coast, with bright blue water on one side, and rolling green farmland on the other. Everywhere I looked, there were trails and mountains just waiting to be explored, and perhaps if we had years rather than weeks we could have. We took a few days to relax, and then we were ready for the hike we had been planning for months. The Th ree Capes is a relatively new walk, but it has already been called one of the best in Australia. It takes hikers to three of the most wild and scenic capes in Tasmania, and the views are unmatched. What we weren’t so excited for, was the price tag that also came as part of the amazing hike, with luxury cabins and endless boardwalks not holding as much appeal for us as camping in the rough. We researched alternatives, and soon it became clear that it was possible to do this hike without the costs of cabins, although it required a bit more planning and a lot more gear. Fortunately, we had all the time in the world, and more than enough gear. We watched the weather for days, waiting for the perfect window. Th is region of Tassie is known to have some of the wildest weather, and is often said to be the windiest part of the island. We even heard reports of hikers behind unable to stand up with winds so strong. Since we had no cabins to fall back on, the weather was going to be a crucial factor. When what looked like the perfect few days fi nally appeared on the weather report, we knew it was time.

Meeting the disinterested but tolerant locals

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A coffee break overlooking Tasman Island, along the Three Capes Track

The changing colours over The Neck

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Adventure East coast Tasmania

As we finally approached the main destination of the hike, the point we had been dreaming about for so long, I could see what all the fuss was about

LUXURY CABIN NOT REQUIRED Our plan was to walk the entire first section on the first day, and make a beeline straight to the Cape. As we meandered through the dry scrub, I was amazed at the lack of other hikers – we appeared to have the whole track to ourselves. After a few hours of solitude, our narrow dirt track met up with the Three Capes Track. Immediately the difference was clear. The dirt and rocks made way for endless boardwalks, with handrails and seats dotted along the near perfect path. We began to feel more like we were hiking through a museum rather than making our way through the Tasmanian wilderness. Along with the fancy new trail came a marked increase in other hikers, all with day bags and runners. We spent the next portion of the day following the seemingly endless boardwalk, past the luxury cabins complete with deck chairs and hammocks outside. When we finally stepped off the last section of boardwalk, it felt like we were back in the wild, and we continued the final section with a renewed sense of wonder. This part of the trail wound its way along the sea cliffs that the trail is known for. Sheer cliffs were the only barrier between the path and the sea, hundreds of metres below. This section of the path is also known to experience wild weather, with icy winds often howling unrestricted from the southern ocean, directly into hikers on the trail. However, it seemed that our planning had paid off. The lack of wind, and the cloudless blue sky above seemed to good to be true. As we fi nally approached the main destination of the hike, the point we had been dreaming about for so long, I could see what all the fuss was about. The Neck is a narrow section of

Who needs a luxury cabin when you can pitch a tent?

rock, which sits well above the surrounding cliffs. The narrow, winding track that makes it way to the top has sheer cliffs on both sides. The fi nal ascent was hot and slow in the afternoon sun, the lack of shade and heavy packs making the climb harder than it looked. Upon reaching the fi nal tip, the very point of the Neck, it was clear the long hike and the days of planning were worth it. We picked out the rocks with the best view, and as the other hikers headed back to their cabins for the night, we had the whole place to ourselves. The sun was slowly making its way down over the distant mountains, the wide expanse of silky smooth ocean began glowing a dazzling orange. The lack of wind or movement made the whole scenario seem more like a still image than real life. We prepared dinner overlooking the view, waiting for the clouds to change and the sunset to really put on a show. Putting the camera on my trusty tripod that I had lugged all this way, I sat in awe as the cliffs exploded with colour and the endless layers of rock disappeared into the distance. The next morning, I returned to the Neck for sunrise, armed with a beanie, gloves and my snug Gortex jacket to ward away the icy Tasmanian chill. Again however, that cold and icy wind was non-existent. As I snapped away at one of the most amazing sunrises I’d ever witnessed, with no sound except the distant seal colony, and no human around for miles – it hit me just how incredible Tasmania is. From pristine beaches of pure white sand to untouched rainforests with abundant waterfalls, and to what I was staring at, a scene almost too perfect to be real, it was clear Tasmania was an incredibly special place.

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Adventure Old Ghost Road

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waking

ghosts Tackling this notoriously tough New Zealand mountain biking , track isn t for the faint hearted, , but if you re up to the challenge , it s an unforgettable and otherworldly experience. WORDS AND PICS Andrew Bain

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Adventure Old Ghost Road

The wildest

NEW

A

ride in Zealand

Lyell Range

s I perch precariously on the high slopes of the Lyell Range, it strikes me how apt the Old Ghost Road’s name is. Here, New Zealand’s longest stretch of continuous mountain-bike single track edges across the hilltops, and the trail hangs from the cliffs like a climber’s bivvy. Beside the trail there’s a pillar of rock named the Tombstone, and warning signs scream of the dangers as the slopes plunge hundreds of metres from almost directly beneath my handlebars. With my cycling partner Sandra, I continue on slowly and nervously, and I bump to sudden stops against ribs of rock that intrude across the trail. Though this spectacular mountain-bike ride isn’t named for any of its hazards, it could be. Just one topple to the left, and I could become a ghost myself.

Old Ghost Road The construction was a monumental effort: $6.5 million of expenditure

THE GHOSTS OF HISTORY

FACING THE WILD Stretching 85km through a remote pocket of the South Island’s west coast, inland from Westport, the Old Ghost Road mirrors the path of 19th century tracks intended to connect goldfields in the Buller Gorge and the Mohikinui Valley. So rugged was the terrain that the roads were never completed, in a case of human ambitions defeated by nature. It would be more than a century before somebody uncovered an old map and hatched an idea to build a modern trail across the same route. The real ghosts here are the long-gone miners and the four towns that once dotted the course of the trail. The Old Ghost Road opened in 2015, and is described in the guidebook Classic New Zealand Cycle Trails as “the wildest ride in New Zealand”. It’s hard to disagree. The trail is shared between mountain bikers and hikers, though it’s most popular with those on wheels. It’s typically a two or three day ride onto, along, and then off the Lyell Range, where the tips of the mountains are as bare as the frame of my bike, but the slopes are wrapped in a shaggy coat of rainforest. It’s here, at the rainforest’s fringe, that the Old Ghost Road begins, deep in the Buller Gorge at the site of the gold-rush ghost town of Lyell. Today though, the only things fossicking here are the sandfl ies after our blood as we prepare our bikes for the journey. For a cycle trip, it feels like an improbable starting point, hemmed in by mountains with the tangled afro of rainforest. Standing here, I just can’t picture where the trail will head.

In 1862, a pair of Maori prospectors found gold at what would become Lyell, now the starting point for the Old Ghost Road. A gold rush ensued, swelling the nowabandoned town to a population of 2000 with the likes of six hotels, three butchers and a school. At around the same time, goldfields arose in the Mohikinui Valley, across the Lyell Range from Lyell. In the 1870s, a road was carved through the mountains, intended to connect the goldfields, but across the brutal mountains the task proved too difficult (and the gold too scarce). The road was never completed. Fast forward around 130 years and an old map emerged, showing the surveyed route. The idea of the Old Ghost Road was born. The construction was a monumental effort: $6.5 million of expenditure, years of construction and more than 100,000 construction hours, including the efforts of around 450 volunteers. What the miners failed to finish was finally completed and opened as the Old Ghost Road in December 2015.

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The Old Ghost Road stretches 85km through a remote pocket of the South Island's West Coast

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Adventure Old Ghost Road

The trail has steepened, and for about five kilometres the climb feels brutal, and the rainforest all the more primeval

There's no time to second guess your biking skills on these narrow tracks

The hauntingly beautiful ride over Ghost Lake

ONLY ONE WAY TO GO It quickly becomes apparent the trail is heading up. Th rough an archway that announces the start of the Old Ghost Road, we dip to a river crossing and then a day of almost relentless climbing begins. Over the next 25km, we ascend 1200m, rising from the toes of the mountains to their tips. The climb is on a good gradient - about four degrees - through thick rainforest on slopes high above Lyell Creek. Th is fi rst section of trail follows the course of the original gold-mining dray track out of Lyell. It’s narrow and at fi rst it feels exposed on the steep slopes, though this quickly comes to seem normal. We’ll soon discover that in comparison to what’s ahead, this section will seem like a six-lane highway. THE TOUGHEST TEST The transitions in the landscape are frequent, and fi rst become noticeable after about 10km, where streamers of lichen suddenly hang from trees as the rainforest morphs into cloud forest. Cutting a scar through this forest are the Big Slips, where an entire hillside sheared away in a 1929 earthquake, presenting trail builders with a precarious challenge that took a couple of years to overcome. Signs warn cyclists not to stop as they push their bikes through the slips, where the views open like shutters onto our afternoon ahead – Lyell Saddle and the tussock-covered peaks beyond it. We lunch on Lyell Saddle, inside the fi rst of six huts that line the Old Ghost Road – four purpose-built huts and two renovated bush huts. Each one features bunks, stoves, pots and pans and a bike workstation. A few hundred metres past the Lyell Hut, the old dray road ended, showing where the miners were defeated. It’s an indication also that for us, the tough stuff is really about to begin, with the alpine country drawing near. The trail has steepened, and for about five kilometres the climb feels brutal, and the rainforest all the more primeval. The gold-mining history comes to seem like yesterday in comparison to these gnarled, wizened trees. Finally, almost 25km from Lyell, the trail pops out into alpine bareness, and stretches ahead like string draped across the slopes. The contrast is extreme – from views no wider than a

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This track is the ultimate way to test a mountain biker's mettle

BE PREPARED The Old Ghost Road is no Yellow Brick Road - this is a serious test of fitness and mountain-biking skills. Across its 85km, the track has 2600m of ascent, including an initial 1200m climb out of Lyell to the summit ridge of the Lyell Range. Past Ghost Lake Hut, there’s a steep and twisting technical descent (be prepared to push through parts of it), followed by an equally steep climb onto Skyline Ridge. The moral of the story? Train up for the Old Ghost Road. Get plenty of hills in your legs, and lots of loose surfaces beneath your tyres. A fair degree of comfort with exposure won’t be a bad thing, either.

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Adventure Old Ghost Road

few metres inside the forest, to views that suddenly spread across endless mountains and valleys. From ahead of us comes a pair of riders who cycled the length of the trail yesterday and are riding back today – 170km of singletrack and big climbs in two days. “I bet there were a few beers in Seddonville last night for you!” Sandra quips. “We only had energy for one,” comes the weary answer. Though the Old Ghost Road ostensibly flattens now, its most spectacular moments also begin. It edges along the top of razor-sharp ridges and then scratches along the base of cliffs on an ever-narrowing and ever-looser track. For a short time I have one end of my handlebars almost scraping the cliffs, while the other end hangs over hundreds of metres of drop, with always that nagging sense of the possibility of becoming the Old Ghost Road’s next ghost. A STEEP SLIDE Along this high and exciting section is the second of the trail’s huts, our home for the night. Ghost Lake Hut sits poised on a knoll above colourful Ghost Lake. The view out one window is onto the lake, but out the other it’s over the rather discomforting sight of tomorrow’s ride, the most technical and tricky section of all - a dizzying line of squiggles along the ridges of surrounding hills. It’s like looking at a terrifying show ride. Th rough the night, heavy rain arrives, pouring over the range and turning the coming descent into a slippery slide.

From the hut, the track plunges, fi rst to the lake and then off the mountains, wriggling down a steep ridgeline through bends so tight I almost need a concertina bike. The rocks and tree roots are slick with rain, and my bike slides, my handlebars clip a tree and suddenly I’m lying in front of my bike on a blessedly comfortable bed of moss. GRAVELY NAMED So tricky is the terrain and trail here that it takes us nearly two hours to ride the fi rst five kilometres (the irresistible urge to keep stopping to photograph the dramatic views doesn’t help). Just as the descent bottoms out far below Ghost Lake Hut, the trail’s toughest climb begins, rearing up onto Skyline Ridge. Th is spectacular ridge is as elevated and narrow as its name implies. At times the trail and the ridge itself seem as thin as dental floss, with potentially painful drops on either side. In the morning mist, the mountains around us become almost ethereal, and the clouds blow through at Formula One speeds. One moment the views are endless, with just thin tendrils of cloud strung across the mountains, and the next I can’t even see Sandra a few metres ahead of me. At the end of the ridge comes a sudden drop, a section of trail that proved so difficult for the track builders that the only solution was to build a wooden staircase. As I sling my laden bike over my shoulder and descend the swirling steps, I begin to truly appreciate why it took a year just to build one six

There's plenty of transitions in the landscape, including lush Lyell Rainforest

There’s no fuel in Purnululu National Park, so if you plan on exploring for a few days a spare jerry of diesel doesn’t hurt.

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BIKE PACKING When I cycled the Old Ghost Road, there was one fellow rider tootling along with panniers, looking as cumbersome as a road train in comparison to every other rider on the trail (and looking positively precarious on the most exposed sections). The Old Ghost Road is best suited to bike-packing, that now-popular form of minimalist mountain-bike touring that dispenses with panniers, and uses the bike as the framework for packing gear. On my ride, we ďŹ tted a 12L seat bag to the saddle of each bike, with a 25L daypack on our backs. Huts contain mattresses, stoves and cooking gear, so we needed nothing more than dinner ingredients, breakfast, a couple of lunches, sleeping bag, a dry change of clothes, rain gear and a down jacket for the cold night atop the range.

At times the trail and the ridge itself seem as thin as dental floss, with potentially painful drops on either side

The sign of track builder's defeat - a wooden staircase was the only solution

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Adventure Old Ghost Road

Not just a name - Skyline Ridge is as high as it sounds

CYCLING IT Adventure South (www.adventuresouth.co.nz) runs a week-long South Island Mountain Bike Adventure trip that includes two days across the Old Ghost Road as well as rides in three other South Island locations. For independent cyclists, Hike n Bike (www. hikenbikeshuttle.co.nz) operates a shuttle service between the start and finish of the Old Ghost Road. The official trail website is https://oldghostroad.org.nz.

kilometre section of this remarkable trail. On this 60m high staircase, the Old Ghost Road leaves the alpine section and returns to the rainforest, delivering us back to a wide (by Old Ghost Road standards) flowing trail – 15km/h has never seemed so fast after the previous couple of hours. Cascades and waterfalls hurry downhill beside us. The rainforest bursts open again on river flats beyond Stern Valley Hut, where we ascend an ancient glacial moraine above Lake Grim (pooled next to Lake Cheerful, at least), a beautiful green pool fringed by beech forest. The lake is penned by mountains, and once again the only way ahead is up. The place names get no more encouraging as the trail winds between massive boulders in the Graveyard - another section of mountain that calved away in an earthquake - and rises on to Solemn Saddle (seriously, which grumpy bastard named these places?). It’s a climb that feels as tough as anything on the previous day, or perhaps that’s just my weary legs talking.

The trail here is a daring bit of construction, cut once again into the base of cliffs, which at times arch over the path

THRILLS TO THE END With its last major climb now over, the Old Ghost Road returns to cruise mode, following the Mohikinui River downstream. The river runs wide and strong, and the rainforest, washed clean and green by the rain, is almost aglow with colour, creating enchanting scenes as clear waters wrap around boulders insulated in moss. I’m tempted to think that this is it – a smooth green carpet all the way to the end of the trail – but the Old Ghost Road doesn’t do things meekly, especially endings. Past Specimen Point Hut, the trail squeezes into a tight gorge, and whatever fatigue I feel is erased by beauty. Far below me are rushing green waters and deep, clear pools. The trail here is a daring bit of construction, cut once again into the base of cliffs, which at times arch over the path. Narrow swing bridges overhang massive drops, with one particular bridge so vertiginous that Sandra cannot bring herself to ride across it. Along this bit of trail, signs warn of extreme rockfall danger, and for hikers there are chain-assisted sections, and yet here we are pedalling bikes on the same path. One wrong move to the right and it’s a watery end. I feel the ghosts haunting me once again.

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STAINLESS STEEL BOTTLE

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Tech Bike care

Lighter, smoother

FASTER Step up your bike maintenance game with these 10 hacks to improve the quality of your next ride. WORDS AND PICS Ashley Gray

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Making a DIY mudguard is a breeze, using a plastic display folder plastic cover

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o matter what sort of cyclist you are, at some stage, you will have wondered if there was a way to make the ride easier. While for most, bike riding is simply about enjoying the journey, we can always benefit from making a ride easier. After all, a ride that is easier will usually be more enjoyable, and that’s what it’s all about. Here’s 10 ways to make your bike lighter, smoother and faster. Follow these simple bike hacks to enjoy a better ride.

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MAKE A DIY MUDGUARD Who likes having mud (or worse) flicked up into your face while riding? Not me! You may have seen many people using simple plastic, fork-mounted mudguards. These are great and do the job fine. But why pay $20-$30 for something you can easily DIY for only a few bucks? All you need is a piece of thin flexible plastic, about A4 size. My favourites are the plastic covers from display books. Print out a template (just Google mountain bike mudguard template), stick it on the piece of plastic and cut around it. Use a hole punch to punch holes in the plastic so you can use zip-ties to attach it. Then mount it to your fork, under the arch. Simple!

RUN A FULL-LENGTH GEAR CABLE OUTER Bikes which shift gears smoothly are quieter, faster and nicer to ride. Most bikes are designed to use three pieces of outer cable which the gear inner cable runs through. This means there are six places where dirt, dust, mud and water can get into the cables. A full-length outer cable will result in only two spots. While it will cause a slight increase in friction on the gear inner cable, this is negligible compared with the added friction created from water, mud and dirt. If your bike doesn’t easily accommodate the simple installation of full-length gear cable, it may be necessary to drill out the cable guides on your frame. While it’s highly unlikely to have any effect on the structural integrity of your bike, it will probably affect your warranty and it’s best to check with your bike manufacturer before you take this route.

Full-length outer gear cables provide the inner cable with protection from mud and water

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Tech Bike care

Be sure to regularly check your tyre pressures and change according to the terrain

Sealant, tubeless valve and rim tape weighs just 112g (even less with the packaging removed!)

3 CHECK THE TYRE PRESSURE All too often, we see people running tyre pressures either too low or too high for their bike. A high pressure results in reduced traction, because less of the tyre is in contact with the ground. High pressure also gives a bumpier ride, as the tyre loses its shock-absorbing capabilities. At the other end of the spectrum, low tyre pressure increases ground friction and the chance of pinch flats. So, correct tyre pressure is essential. But what is correct tyre pressure? Well, that’s a tough one. Many factors will affect your choice of tyre pressure. Is it wet? What sort of dirt is on the trail? How rocky is it? Will you be riding aggressively? How much do you weigh? What sort of tyres do you have? How smooth are the trails you will be on? What wheel size do you have and how wide are the tyres? The key with tyre pressure is to check and change often. With more experience and a better understanding of how they affect your ride, you’ll learn to set the correct pressure. As a starting point, run 30 PSI in the front and 35 PSI in the rear, and experiment with small changes on a variety of different trail conditions.

4 GO TUBELESS Having just read the above guide to tyre pressure, you wouldn’t be wrong to think that there must be better way! Well, there is, especially for mountain biking. Generally, as a mountain bike rider, you are in a constant battle between running enough tyre pressure to avoid a pinch flat while keeping it as low as possible to maximise your traction. A tubeless tyre setup helps to alleviate this issue. In the tubeless market, there are two types of setups – UST tubeless and a sealant-based system. UST tubeless requires a specific type of tyre and rim, where the two lock together to create an airtight seal. If you don’t have UST rims and tyres, you’ll need a sealant-based system. With a sealant-based system, you can run almost any standard tyre and rim combination. The inside of the rim needs to be taped to stop air leaking out through the spoke nipple holes in the rim. Then you need a special valve, which has a removable core to allow sealant to be poured in. Finally, you need a sealant, which will help to seal any small holes in the tyre. The sealant will also help fill any small holes which might appear in the tyre during a ride – think blackberry thorns, tacks, etc. Commercial systems are available which include all the parts you need to convert a standard tyre and rim to a tubeless system. But there are also some home remedies. When going tubeless, consider: Using a ‘tubeless ready’ tyre. They tend to offer a better seal on the rim, have fewer holes on the rubber and work better with sealant. Gorilla Tape works just as well as any commercial rim tape available from the big brands. Replace the sealant regularly – at least every six months. Old sealant tends to dry up and disappear. Clean the rim carefully before applying rim tape. Metho and a rag works a treat.

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Essential spares taped to your frame save the weight of a saddle bag or hydra-pack

Chain stay protector made from selfadhesive foam

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SILENCE THE DRIVE TRAIN There is nothing enjoyable about hardly being able to hear yourself think because your chain is slapping about so much. Wrap an old tube around the chainstay of your bike or better still, buy some self-adhesive foam and stick it on the top of the chainstay. It won’t last as long as a wrapped tube, but it will look far more pro and allow you to show off the graphics and brand names plastered all over your chainstay.

TAKE ONLY ESSENTIAL SPARES While the years in Scouts may have taught you to ‘be prepared’, do you really need that shock pump and spoke key in four different sizes? Consider the location, terrain and distance from assistance you’ll be riding, then pack accordingly. A tube, tyre levers, CO2 canister, small multi-tool and mobile phone will get you out of most sticky situations. Small spares like these can be taped to your frame to remove the need to carry a backpack – saving even more weight. If you’re riding in a group, coordinate your gear and spares so that you don’t end up with four minipumps and no chain breaker!

Rear derailleur cables are often routed under the bottom bracket where, without a full-length outer cable, they are susceptible to mud

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Tech Bike care

Setting the correct rebound on your suspension is essential to a smooth ride

Cut the unnecessary extra length off the seatpost to save some weight

7 SET YOUR REBOUND CORRECTLY Look at your suspension fork and shock, and find the rebound adjuster (it’s usually red). This dial adjusts how fast your suspension returns to its normal position after an impact. Experiment with this and adjust it, one click at a time, on repeated runs on a familiar trail. Take note of the effects while considering the following; too fast and your bike will feel like a pogo stick, and too slow, you risk having the suspension ‘packing-down’ when subject to repeated bumps without time to rebound to its normal position. Rebound should be somewhere between these two extremes. Play around with the adjustment to find what works best for you. You may be surprised how slow some pros run their rebound. Remember to adjust just one click at a time, as there can be a fine line between too slow and too fast.

8 REMOVE ALL UNNECESSARY WEIGHT It’s time to get out the hacksaw! Normally, seat posts and fork steerer tubes are a lot longer than they need to be. These add extra grams that serve no purpose. Measure the maximum height you will ever need your steerer tube and seat post to be then, using a hacksaw (and ideally, a saw guide for a straight cut), trim off the excess material. Just make sure you carefully check the ‘minimum insertion’ mark on the seat post and leave at least this amount of post below the mark of your normal seat height. While you’re at it, take off the spoke guard, which is behind the cassette. Properly adjusted gears will make the spoke protector redundant. So make sure you have the gears checked and tuned before you remove the spoke protector.

Remove the plastic spoke protector to save more weight

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GET CLEANING As you strive for every advantage on your ride, feeling fast is essential. It’s almost impossible to feel like you are riding a finely-tuned machine when it’s covered in mud. So grab the hose and bucket, a small brush and some detergent (dishwashing detergent works pretty well), and go and clean your bike. Avoid using high pressure on the bike, especially around the bearings (headset, hubs and bottom bracket), but a light spray will be fine. Then use the brush and detergent to scrub the bike clean. Don’t forget those easy-to-miss places like under the saddle and bottom bracket. Use a clean rag to dry the bike and then apply chain lube to the chain. A spray lube can be used to keep SPD pedal springs, derailleur pivots and even the inside of cables working as they should; just be sure to keep it off the disc brakes.

PREVENTION IS BETTER THAN A CURE – MAKE YOUR BIKE MUD-RESISTANT Mud may be fun to ride in, but it’s no fun when it’s on your bike. A sticker placed over the back of the hollowed out area on the fork arch prevents it collecting here. A lightweight foam (sometimes known as moto-foam) can be stuffed into parts of frame linkages and gaps in the frame to prevent excessive mud build-up. Some swear by a thin coating of bike wax or even a waterdispersal spray on the frame to reduce mud build-up. Keep it away from the rotors, instead concentrate on common areas where mud and grime builds up – down tube, seat tube and suspension pivots.

5 Fitting automotive protection film (or a sticker) to the back of the fork arch can stop mud accumulating here

A hose, brush and cleaning detergent are all you need to start looking and feeling fast

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Adventure The Kimberley

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An exploration

TRIFECTA Inspired by an Aussie TV legend, Jack Murphy heads off to explore the remote and rugged Top End in an epic adventure by land, sea and air. WORDS AND PICS Jack Murphy

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he north-western tip of Australia is remote, wild and beautiful. Well, that’s what Malcolm Douglas had me believing after watching his many videos. He traversed the Kimberley with his dog Boondie, a cameraman and his trusty alloy boat. The legend of the Kimberley was imprinted on me – I had to do it. My fair-haired partner Millie and I headed west to the land of red dust, towering cliffs and fat barra... Before you get the chance to pull out the camera to snap a gobsmacking gorge, there are long drives along corrugated roads to navigate. In the wet season, there’s a good chance the main route has washed out or a

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causeway has collapsed after torrential rain. In Kununurra – the gateway to the Kimberley – the average annual rainfall is 790mm. This year, as we were packing our finest Gold Bombers (barramundi lures) into dry weatherproof packs, it pelted down a sock-sodden 1072mm. It was the wettest season since the 1960s! On the upside, waterfalls would be flowing and the gorges swollen. On the downside, it’d be a slog all the way. So we hatched a cunning plan to avoid all those soggy socks and trousers. It involved a highly capable 4x4, a plane that floats, a chopper and a luxury live-aboard boat – just to be on the safe side.

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Adventure The Kimberley

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ANNON FIRE It’s 4am at Darwin Airport. Inside a dimly lit hangar at a corner of the runway is a Grumman G-73 Mallard amphibious aircraft. It might be named after a duck, but this twin-prop aircraft with its massive 20m wingspan and classic 1940s lines is a flying boat. Most days it transports workers to the Paspaley pearl farms, but today it will be freighting us to the west coast of the Northern Territory to rendezvous with our mothership. I try to help by sucking in my gut as they weigh all our gear, then we’re up and away. Millie had barely fired off a selfie before we were soaring across the coastal fringes west of Darwin, spotting crocs in the rapidly flowing river systems. I picture big barra lying just below the surface in the eddies swirling around the mangrove-lined banks. Less than an hour later, the Grumman loses altitude, tips a wing and circles the MV Cannon like, well, a mallard coming in to nest for the night. This is the mothership, a 75ft custombuilt live-aboard – our home for the next week. The pilot lines up a clean strip of water before lowering the belly of the behemoth on to the tannin stained river, the bow wave soaking the rear windows. Landing on water is a strange sensation, louder but smoother than a runway. I’d be lying if I said I didn’t have sweaty palm thoughts of US Airways Flight 1549 on the Hudson River at that moment. We motor towards the Cannon and two tenders come out to meet us. The pilot shuts down the engines and cracks open the rear exit and a wave of warm, humid air hits us in the face as a sunburnt head pops inside and says, “G’day guys, welcome to paradise!”

“G-73 Mallard you are clear to land on our starboard side.”

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The Grumman G-73 Mallard touches down in tropical paradise Millie spots crocs while ying over the coastal fringes west of Darwin

The pilot lines up a clean strip of water before lowering the belly of the behemoth onto the tannin-stained river

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Adventure The Kimberley

The Cannon is a 75ft mothership custom built by West Coaster Marine and launched in 2003. She’s skippered by Ben Sambrooks, a Top End pirate of repute. He’s a young fella with a scruffy beard, but don’t let his appearance fool you. This charter operation is one of the smoothest on Australian waters.

FISHING VALHALLA Ah, if Malcolm could see me now. Back in the day, he slept in a dusty old swag and cooked fish on an open campfire. We’re being treated to five-star dinners, three times a day and an air-conditioned bedroom – plus Aiden, our personal guide in standard NT garb of tan Columbia shirt, boardies and polarised sunnies. All up, the boat accommodates eight paying guests, six staff and a BCF store worth of tackle. Aiden has the unenviable task of teaching Millie how to cast. We jump into the tinny, fasten our sunnies, reverse hats and snake up the river at full speed, soaring past mangroves that are choking trees into submission. Around every bend is a double-page spread out of National Geographic: saltwater crocs lurking, sea eagles soaring and jabirus wading peacefully before being startled by the thrum of our aluminum hull. Bursting through the forest canopy onto the floodplain, dense greenery gives way to grassy flatlands punctuated with tributaries feeding the main body of water. The water is clear and we snag a few small ones, Aiden sensing my relief at notching a barra on my belt. We double back to the river mouth for a shot at the elusive metre-long fish. We work the edges of the sandbank near the entrance where medium-sized barra and bluenose salmon fight for attention among the squadrons of salty crocs. Without a canopy, we feel the full fury of the blazing sun. One big saltwater croc joins the frenzy, dragging a 5kg threadfin salmon to the muddy bank and chomping down like it was a chicken nugget. When Aiden calls prime time for casting lures into the river’s shaded feeder creeks, Millie, her white skin now a shade of pink, agrees. It looks like barra heaven – a mess of snags where a small tributary feeds black, nutrient-rich runoff into the main channel, creating a back-eddy like a cup of freshly stirred Milo. The barra are hungry and we both hook 70cm fish at the same time. Millie forgets about her sunburn for a while as we highfive. Egos and eskies filled to the brim, we return to the mothership, where our fellow cruisers are regaling each other with fishy stories. We’re greeted by a vast platter of mud crabs – which proves to be just the entrée…

Smaller barra came thick and fast

Little reef sharks enjoyed searching for scraps

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TOP FIVE BARRA TIPS

Metre Mike with a mud crab destined for the dinner table

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Barra are very lazy, but more intelligent than you’d think. Look for snaggy, slow-moving water sitting alongside fast-moving water. Barra love these areas, conserving energy in the slow water then ambushing prey as they scurry past.

2 METRE MIKE The following days are a blur of beautiful scenery and barramundi scales – each session better than the last. The sea is a glass-off, so we hit the offshore reefs in tinnies. Fat fingermark and juicy jewfish are destined for the dinner table, but the conversation turns to metre-long barra. Nobody has snagged one yet. Not until fishing guide Metre Mike rocks up. Mike’s from Sydney’s Northern Beaches, but spends seven months a year guiding on the Cannon. The next morning with Mike starts like most other days, casting lures into snags and feeder creeks. Spying a good-looking spot he’d never fished before, we approach silently to see a barra tailing around the cluster of algae-covered logs. I cast into the honey hole and it’s immediately snuffled by a nice fish. Within a few moments, the line is peeling off at right angles. A huge swirl on the surface exposes the thick shoulders and massive paddle tail of a metre barra. An epic battle ensues, a 10-minute tug-o’-war, the fish running the line over countless submerged branches. We finally get the 110cm beast into the net and onto the boat before being released after a quick photo. This was my first metre barra, and the only one landed on the trip. Belt notched.

When fishing the run-off (end of the wet season), locate yourself near the colour changes. The tannin-coloured water that comes off the flood plains is full of nutrients and attracts the bait. This is like Bourke Street for big barra.

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Keep your eyes peeled for crocodiles. They’re hunting barramundi too. Multiple crocs congregating around sandspits or edges are a sure sign of barra en masse. Barra are often the first predators to come in with the tide, so fish the first flow of the run-in tide and last flow of the outgoing tide. You can never retrieve a barra lure too slowly. If the lure is in the zone, a subtle twitch is usually all it takes to encourage a bite.

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Adventure The Kimberley

Millie bags her ďŹ rst barra!

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TROUBLE IN PARADISE The epic Cannon adventure is almost over and it’s time to head home. We’re 100km west of Darwin when Captain Ben Sambrooks turns the ignition key to fire up the big 820HP M.T.U diesel engine… and nothing happens. The starter motor has packed it in so we call in air support. A chopper will have to fly the broken parts into town for repairs and the skipper decides this is a good opportunity to ferry a few passengers back to Darwin. I opt to stay on the boat – might as well keep fishing, eh? However, Millie jumps at the opportunity of a heli-ride home and in no time is back in a springy hotel bed in Darwin, watching The Bold and the Beautiful and eating Nacho Cheese Doritos.

WHADDA TRIP It’s been an epic adventure – bookended with a grand seaplane entrance and evacuation by chopper a week later. The Cannon makes it home late the next night and the crew calls for a celebration. It’s customary that every charter ends with a drink called Captain’s Blood. It’s a mixture of Captain Morgan, soda water and bitters that sounds nice, but actually tastes like brake fluid. I pretend to enjoy it as the crew become more animated, the barra grow a few centimetres and the back slaps get harder.

The following days are a blur of beautiful scenery and barramundi scales - each session better than the last

CANNON CHARTERS 0417 457 135; cannoncharters.com.au Email: bec@cannoncharters.com.au 3 Graham Road, Quinns Rocks, WA 6030

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Adventure The Kimberley

The best views in life are always through the windscreen of a helicopter...

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flying

high

With part one of the Kimberley expedition deemed a success and the mud crab platters devoured, there was nowhere to go but up. WORDS AND PICS Jack Murphy

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Adventure The Kimberley

N

ICK’S TRICKS Having conquered the Kimberley by sea, it was time to take to the skies again. We head down to Kununurra and meet up with the guys from HeliSpirit. They specialise in scenic fl ights and heli-fishing, which involves spotting the best fishing grounds, lobbing right next to them and fl icking in your lure. Millie is all fished-out after a week aboard Cannon, but the idea of exploring the gorges and waterfalls by air is enough to get her into the sky.

Our pilot Nick fires up the gleaming Robinson 44 and moments later we’re soaring towards a secret river. Slotting into a narrow chasm between two red rock cliffs, he lowers the bird onto a convenient rock platform. It’s the prettiest gorge we’ve ever seen – even prettier than the Instagram photos we’d salivated over on WA tourism sites. Abandoning the joystick, Nick assembles a couple of three-piece fishing rods. Then a couple of throws with the casting net later and we’re stocked with bait. Nick sure has the moves and Millie is looking way too impressed with his handiwork. Time for me to snag another barra, I reckon.

Nick pulls the biggest barra of the day from underneath the lily pads

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Nick and Millie prep the three-piece rods for a spot of heli-fishing

ROBINSON R44 RAVEN Length: 11.66m Height: 3.28m Payload: 635kg

Top speed: 240km/h Range: 560km Capacity: 4

Parking is not a problem when you’re in an R44

There are an endless supply of choice fishing spots visible from the R44

Jabiru hunt the mud fl ats for easy prey

Our pilot Nick fires up the gleaming Robinson 44 and moments later we,re soaring towards a secret river 61

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Adventure The Kimberley

Unless you're partial to millipedes in your underpants, we reckon flying is the go NEW HORIZONS We notch up a few mangrove jack while soaking up the serenity. After an hour or so, Nick calls it barra o’clock. We clamber aboard the chopper and fly over more rivers and pools with Nick peering out the window searching for metre barra. He spots a few, but finding somewhere to land is a challenge until he settles on a narrow flood plain west of the Cambridge Gulf. Every cast is a hook-up and there seems an endless supply of willing barra under the lily pads. Millie and I rack up the numbers, while Nick goes with quality, scoring an 85cm monster. THE COBURNS Before heading back, Nick has a treat in store. He’d tucked away a cool bag with a six-pack of icy Matso’s beer and we slurp happily. Nick detours over the Cockburn Ranges – yes, unfortunate name – swooping and buzzing through a maze of sheer cliffs that peer down into countless beautiful gorges. The cliff tops are stained black and Nick explains that in the wet season, the entire range is pretty much a huge waterfall. This place really is the Wild West. Unless you’re partial to millipedes in your underpants, we reckon flying is the go. The bird’s-eye view showcases the rugged beauty of this remote landscape. We shudder, remembering that in a few days time we’ll be out there, all alone in our 4x4.

We caught plenty of mangrove jack from the belly of the mirror-finished gorge

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During the wet season, the entire range is mostly one huge waterfall

HELISPIRIT (08) 9168 1101; helispirit.com.au Lot 320, Laine Jones Drive, Kununurra Airport, WA 6743

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Adventure The Kimberley

Emma Gorge in El Questro Wilderness Park is icy, but bloody gorge-ous

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Tropical

CYCLONE

Not even a major weather event could threaten the determination needed to complete the third leg of Outdoor's Kimberley adventure. WORDS AND PICS Jack Murphy

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Adventure The Kimberley

H

aving conquered the Kimberley by sea and by sky, it’s time to test our mettle like most tourists do in these parts – by 4x4. We have a bit of a problem, though. The Gibb River Road, that iconic stretch of dirt road that runs between Kununurra and Derby, is still closed after the big wet. There is worse news: a tropical low forming off the Tiwi Islands is threatening to bulk up into a cyclone as it passes over Darwin. So threatening, in fact, that the guys from Cannon Charters have cancelled their next trip. Rather than waiting in a motel eating pizza in our pyjamas, we make the most of the good-weather window, exploring some of the national parks closer to Darwin. Most are only accessible by 4x4. The Gibb also features deep, sandy river crossings and endless corrugations, so a 4x4 is a compulsory accessory. We opt for a 2.8L turbo diesel Toyota Hilux from Australian 4WD Hire. These rigs come kitted out with all the camping and 4x4 gear you need. Ours has all the bells and whistles, including a TJM awning and rooftop tent, camping chairs, table, stove, jerry cans, fi rst aid kit, recovery kit and detailed Hema maps. To take on the corrugations it has an upgraded suspension system and all-terrain tyres – the perfect carriage to tour the Kimberley on rubber. DON’T GO CHASING WATERFALLS First item on the agenda is Kakadu National Park, a few potholes down the road from Darwin. Sadly for us, the big wet had closed the big-ticket destinations like Jim-Jim and Twin Falls Gorge. Never mind, we slide into the hiking boots and check out some incredible Aboriginal rock art. The fishing options are plentiful in Kakadu, every causeway occupied by someone flicking a lure. Then it’s south to Katherine and Litchfield National Park to ogle the massive Edith Falls. We also get dwarfed by the four metre high Cathedral Termite Mounds, snorkel with sooty grunter at Katherine Gorge and soak our weary bones in the Bitter Springs thermal pools. The mask and fins also come in handy here – the water is crystal clear!

BERTIE THE BUSHMAN Cruising a backblocks town looking for a caramel soy milkshake for Millie, the phone crackles into life. “You in Kununurra?” comes the familiar bark of Macca (aka Anthony McDonald from Red Desert Tours). “You’ve gotta catch up with a South African buddy of mine called Bertie. He’s the best bushman I know, an ex-pro hunter who can kill and skin a croc with his bare hands!” I have to meet this bloke, so I grab his number and tap it in the phone while Millie slurps away. “Hi, erm, is this Bertie the croc-peeling bushman?” I squeak. “Yes, who’s this”, comes the heavily accented reply. “My name is Jack Murphy, I’m trav…” Bertie interrupts, “Listen, I’m filleting 100kg of Spanish mackerel at the moment. Meet me at the tavern at 5pm.” Before I could say “Yes Mr Kill-Everything-in-Sight”, he hangs up. It was yet another Wild West moment – wild enough for Millie to stop chugging her milkshake and stare at me wideeyed, looking for reassurance we wouldn’t be skinned alive. At the appointed hour, we tentatively enter the tavern, half expecting to be leaving as a decorative rug for Bert’s floor. To prove my virility I puff my chest out, strut to the bar and order the darkest beer on tap. Then I wait. A few minutes later, a bloke with a lean frame and Croc sandals sits down at the table, lemon lime and bitters in hand. “You must be Jack. I’m Bertie. I love your magazine,” he says with a friendly smile. Fears abate and we share tales and sweet drinks for an hour or so before he offers a run in his tinny. Hell yeah!

Kununurra local, Bertie, takes us for a burn down the spectacular Upper Ord

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Kakadu NP

Edith Falls

Katherine

Aboriginal rock art in Kakadu National Park

The Cathedral Termite Mounds in LitchďŹ eld National Park are up to four metres high!

Bertie interrupts, "Listen, I'm filleting 100kg of Spanish mackerel at the moment. Meet me at the tavern at 5pm."

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Adventure The Kimberley

Kununurra Katherine

BUNGLING ALONG After an amazing morning on the Ord, we leave Bertie with a firm handshake. He’d suggested we visit the Purnululu National Park, home of the Bungle Bungle range and only a half-day’s drive from Kununurra. I’d seen the giant beehive mountains in magazines before, but ogling them in the raw is way more impressive. The Bungle Bungle region has serious cultural significance to the Aboriginal people, but it wasn’t until 1983 that the rest of the world fully appreciated its beauty when a documentary film projected the area into lounge rooms around the world. Interest peaked and in 1987, Purnululu became a National Park then, in 2003, a World Heritage site. Getting to the Bungle Bungles is a challenge – a bunch of river crossings and a rocky 4x4 section with a few thousand corrugations thrown in. We pick a campsite then kit up for some hikes. Over two days we trek the Domes, Cathedral Gorge, the Window, Whip Snake Gorge, Mini Palms Gorge and Echidna Chasm. All the bushwalks are pretty tame; the ground is relatively flat, the tracks are well sign posted and sights are gosh-darn breathtaking. If you’re feeling adventurous, the Piccaninny Gorge Walk, is a 30km, two to seven day hike, which requires navigational skills, climbs over fallen boulders and lots of drinking water. You’re also required to register with the visitors centre before heading off. Unfortunately Millie and I didn’t have time to tackle this one, but you’ve got to have a reason to go back…

Lake Argyle

Birds eye view of the Bungle Bungl e Range

Bungle Bungle Exploring the underwater ecosystem of Bitter Springs Thermal Pools

NO ORD-INARY MORNING When I arrive at the boat ramp, Bertie is already on the water with a crew of three dogs raring to go. His boat is well worn, hinting at epic battles with crocs, barra and wild boar. Cruising up the Upper Ord River, Bertie words me up on the area, “officially Kununurra is on of the hottest continuously inhabited places in the world, with an average temperature of 36.5 degrees. I love it though; in the build-up we see the most beautiful electrical storms and more waterfalls than you could ever imagine.” He then points out a few saltwater crocodile traps before asking if I’d like to go for a swim. Not knowing if he’s joking or not, I just smile and nod, only glancing at the bonehandled knife hanging from his belt for a few seconds. Upriver, the Ord scenery becomes more dramatic. The river narrows, then twists and turns beneath huge orange cliffs, their reflection mirrored perfectly on the still water before being shattered by the wake of the boat. We arrive at a spot called Jump Rock and tie the boat to a tree. Bertie says this is the perfect spot for swim. I tell him I’m not actually that hot, as I pull my hat further down my forehead, trying to conceal the sweat that's literally dripping off my brow.

The hike to Mini Palms Gorge is nothing short of spectacular

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Pentecost River

El Questro WP

Kununurra Gibb River Road

Manning Gorge

Mount Barnett Roadhouse

Adcock Gorge

Broome

5, Gibb Road Diesel @ $2.0 ery highway robb

BROOME OR BROKE We depart the Bungles heading for the Gibb, which had only just opened. First stop is El Questro Wilderness Park, where we visit Emma Gorge, Zebedee Springs, Saddleback Ridge and one of the most spectacular, El Questro Gorge – where I hike for three hours, swim across a deep pool and climb a waterfall with heavy underwater camera gear, only to discover it was taking photos in my pack the entire hike and the battery is now flat. Dang! Continuing along the Gibb, we hit the Pentecost River – a crossing I’d been dreading for weeks. It is 60m wide with strong currents and can’t be walked to check the depth as there are too many salties lurking. We get there at low tide as planned, it doesn’t

look too bad, so we plough through – a cinch for our NT tank! Next stop is Mount Barnett Roadhouse in the King Leopold Ranges, where we get whacked $2 for a litre of diesel, in fairness pretty standard along the Gibb. Our campsite is at Manning Gorge, which has a massive waterfall that caresses the shoulders of weary travellers while filling up their souls. We also visit the nearby Galvans and Adcock gorges – both are spectacular. To our surprise the Gibb has been pretty tame, the road in good nick with a few sealed sections. There are a few livestock hazards, including wandering cattle that seem to enjoy playing, er, chicken with TJM bull bars.

I'd seen the giant beehive mountains in magazines before, but ogling them in the raw is way more impressive

The Bungle Bungle Range in Purnululu National Park is a World Heritage site

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Adventure The Kimberley

Cape Leveque Kooljaman Dampier Peninsula

B

Broome

Broome to Kooljaman, 206km, 2.5hrs of driving

The Teva sandles came into their own above and below the surface

This cobia off the beach at Cape Leveque was a welcome surprise

An awning, rooftop tent, fridge full of icy beers and a cracking campsite what more could you need?

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FROM BUSH TO BEACH Soaked to the bone with freshwater waterholes, we opt for a salty alternative, motoring on to Broome to reacquaint ourselves with electricity and fresh veggies, fill our bellies and charge the camera batteries. Next stop is the Dampier Peninsula, towards Cape Leveque. The road is tedious, seriously dusty and heavily corrugated, but totally worth it once we arrive at Kooljaman, a remote wilderness camp owned by the indigenous Bardi Jawi communities. Vivid blue water laps white sandy beaches bordered by red rock cliffs. And it doesn’t just look good – you can swim here without fear of stingers or salties. There is no Bertie, Metre Mike or Tricky Nick to put me onto the barra in these parts so I’m left to my own fishing devices. Grabbing a bag of pilchards, I trundle down to the beach and lob bait into the blue. The Hail Mary session is a winner. Little golden

trevally, GTs, sharks and a nuggety cobia are stars in my mini fishing festival. We spend the next few days exploring underwater and ticking off some bucket-list fish, even snagging my first bluebone (Venus tuskfish). It’s one of the prettiest fish I’ve ever seen and the perfect exclamation mark for our Kimberley expedition. THE LAST FRONTIER The Kimberley is remote, hot, dusty and unforgiving, but that’s part of the attraction. Once you get past its raw and rugged exterior, you’ll discover an amazing ecosystem made up of rock formations, powerful waterfalls, crystal-clear gorges and fascinating Aboriginal history. Oh, did I mention the damn good fishing? Malcolm Douglas certainly did, and I'm glad. Everyone should see the Kimberley at least once in their lifetime.

The Kimberley is remote, hot, dusty and unforgiving, but that's part of the attraction. And did I mention the damn good fishing? Malcolm Douglas certainly did.

AUSTRALIAN 4WD HIRE 1300 360 339; australian4wdhire.com.au Email: sales@australian4wdhire.com.au 5703/9 Hamilton Ave, Q1 Tower, Surfers Paradise, Qld 4217

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Adventure The Kimberley

THE

Kimberley essentials All the gear we couldn,t have gone without.

SEA TO SUMMIT BIG RIVER DRY BAGS

Dry bags are invaluable when touring around such volatile weather climates. One minute it’s sunny, the next it’s bucketing. The Sea to Summit Big River Dry Bags weigh virtually nothing, pack down flat and saved the expensive camera equipment on several occasions.

JETBOIL FLASH

FIRST AID AND RECOVERY KIT

Being able to boil water in just over two minutes is a serious time saver when it comes to coffee, tea, soups, spaghetti and even veggies. The Jetboil Flash is also small, light and has a push-button igniter.

Safety is the number one priority when remote touring. Also being able to self-recover your vehicle is vital. A good first aid and recovery kit should always be carried.

LED LENSER I7R

TEVA SANDLES

Having a range of torches and headlamps at your disposal is a must. The MVP of our Kimberley trip was the LEDLENSER i7R. This little baby has a charging dock for the car, an advanced focus system to spread or narrow the beam and a robust metal housing. Not to mention, it’s also water resistant (IPX4).

Hiking boots are great and all, but when the sweat starts dripping through your socks before you’ve even tied the laces something has got to give. For most of our hikes and underwater missions, we opted for Teva sandles, which offer awesome support and keep your feet as cool as cucumbers.

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HEMA MAPS AND/OR HX-1 NAVIGATOR

EPIRB

Google Maps will tell you it takes almost seven hours to drive between Broome and Cape Leveque – um no, it only takes two and a half. Get yourself a set of Hema maps and/or a Hema HX1 Navigator, which has on and offroad navigation.

An EPIRB (Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon) is for when the shit really hits the fan. Boat capsized in shark-infested water, bitten by a brown snake or just horribly lost – these are the times an EPIRB will save your life. Set it off and the cavalry will be heading to your exact location.

A GOOD 4X4

ENGEL MR40F

A good fridge goes hand-in-hand with a good 4x4. Unless you plan on eating nothing but 2 Minute Noodles for your entire trip across the Gibb, you’re going to need a portable fridge/freezer. Engel’s MR40F has a 38L capacity and low current draw.

KLEAN KANTEEN

Having an insulated drink bottle is a creature comfort I just couldn’t do without after exploring the Kimberley. They may weigh down your pack a little, but it’s totally worth it for an icy drink after an all day hike. A 592ml Klean Kanteen can keep its contents cold for 50 hours or hot for 20 hours.

The Kimberley is no place for an old Pajero with 500,000km on the clock. We opted for a 2.8L turbo diesel Toyota Hilux with all the bells and whistles, including a TJM awning and rooftop tent, camping chairs, table, stove and jerry cans. Don’t forget the upgraded suspension system and all-terrain tyres too.

OPTUS SATSLEEVE+

A satellite phone is a massive lifeline when you’re in the wilderness or far out to sea, it certainly saved our butts when the mothership broke down. The Optus SatSleeve+ is an awesome option because it turns your compatible smartphone into a satellite phone.

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Tech Knife guide

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the cutting

edge A knife is an essential part of any outdoor enthusiast's kit, but what blade makes the cut depends on the situation.

WORDS AND PICS Scot t Heiman

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Tech Knife guide

Bowie style knives have been used around camp for a long time, and the ones made by Keith Fludder are a work of art

Knives are

essen tial

I

f you're a knife aficionado, you’ll know not all blades are created equal. This is important to know before you head into the great outdoors. How you choose the knife to take, should depend on your intended purpose, and the blade’s unique characteristics. This is no time to rely on brand names or your best mate’s opinion. Knives are essential tools, and knowing what to look for is a skill in itself.

CAMP CUTS Camp knives need to be rigid and durable. After all, it’s likely you’re not doing anything refined or precise. The main thing you need is a blade that can be multi-purposed around camp for a range of tasks. A folding pocket knife will do at a pinch, but only if you intend on dealing with small jobs. Remember, the hinge on a pocket knife is a natural point of weakness. A fixed blade with a full tang is generally a better option, with a four to six inch blade being a common length. Apart from making you feel like Rambo, serrated knives have limited utility around camp. While they generally stay sharp longer than a smooth edged blade, they’re a real pain to bring back into shape when they inevitably lose their edge.

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Multi tools - the Swiss army knife on steroids and the new age go-to pocket knife

NIFTY KNIFE

The point (excuse the pun) is to have a knife on you when you need it. That’s why most outdoor enthusiasts have that ‘little something’ in their pocket. A handy blade will help you rig a jig, open packets, conduct first aid and support those on-thespot fiddly tasks. This is where folders and multitools can be a good option as they’ll deal with fishing tasks and offer bonus applications (scissors and tweezers etc.) for other outdoor activities. Compleat Angler has a range of off the shelf hunting knives

Bruce Barnett and Bill Burke display their artistry through this bespoke Damascus blade chef's knife.

COLOUR CODING

We all have friends who buy everything in the brightest possible colour to reduce the risk of loss. But there’s no need to limit your available blade choices to products that are coloured like Smarties. In fresh mud, leaf litter or fresh snow, even a small, lightweight, brightly coloured knife will disappear from sight. It's far better to select the blade that meets your individual specs and then attach a long bright lanyard, 15cm or longer. Make the lanyard from para-cord and you’ll find yourself carrying back-up cordage that may give you life-saving options when your camping trip or hike turns sour. US made Spyderco blades are popular with climbers and general outdoor enthusiasts

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Tech Knife guide

IT'S ALL IN THE GRIND When it comes down to it, task dictates shape - as does grind. Your knife will invariably come in one of three common grinds: flat, hollow or convex. Imagine your edge as a triangle, flat grinds have flat sides and are good for general cutting. In hollow grinds, the sides curve-in, which is good for slicing, while having the convex curve facing out is good for chopping. There are others such as Scandi and non-Scandi which dictate the final bevel. The point is, to know what you’re looking for in the first place.

Tanto knives are made for piercing and have limited use as a camp knife

flat

HEAD FOR THE HILLS Serrated knives can help a climber cut a lot of rope, because that’s their main function. They were specifically designed to cut rope, seatbelts and similar material when the chips are down. Outside of an emergency situation, they’re less well suited. The serration may mangle and fray precious cord, and they’re a hassle for many other cutting tasks. If you want to carry a serrated blade, it's probably best to limit it to rough jobs in emergencies. Tanto-style blades are gaining appeal in some sectors of the outdoor community, but these are designed for piercing and stabbing. They're not the best choice for bushwalking or scaling a cliff, so leave them for those involved in close combat! Instead, rely on a high quality single-edged blade that will give you a clean cut with minimal effort. What you’re looking for is something with a straight cutting edge near the handle and a forward curved edge (commonly called the belly).

Hollow

convex

STEEL VS COMPOSITE ALLOY The difference in having a quality steel knife versus a composite alloy is painfully obvious after you’ve had a knife tip snap-off or worse – the entire blade at the pommel. Ultimately different types of steel will exhibit different degrees of hardness, toughness, and corrosion resistance.

Spearpoints are still a tactical knife but closer to a camp knife

COMING IN FROM THE COLD Think about the conditions under which you may need to use your blade. Many places we go can be hot in the day, but freezing at night. Others see four seasons in one day. So, would you be able to use your knife in the cold, with either gloves and/or cold hands? Most ‘one-handed’ opening knives will be difficult to manage if you lose your dexterity; as will small fixed blades.

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Old school is cool again - grinding the curve into your own blade leaves a certain satisfaction

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Tech Knife guide

MAKE YOUR OWN

Can’t find the knife that’s just right for you, or you think the quality's not up to scratch? There are hundreds of talented bladesmiths in Australia who will happily customise a knife to your specifications. You can even take the next step and make your own. Check around your local area for bladesmith schools where a weekend’s work may see you walk away with a totally unique, handmade knife. Alternatively, if you think you already have what it takes, knife-making kits are available from companies like GAMECO, as are the paper sharpening wheels.

HERE FISHY, FISHY Fishing knives come in two types: those used while fishing and those used to prepare the catch for cooking. A general purpose knife that fits in your pocket is useful while you’re out with your rod. However, to prepare the catch, you need a purpose made filleting knife. Aim for a blade that limits rust. Stainless steel is a common choice – but H-1 steel also works well. The key characteristic of a filleting knife is that it’s flexible and thin with a grippy handle. Many fishing enthusiasts will have an assortment of filleting knives to match the size of the catch, but a six to eight inch blade will serve you well for most jobs.

A good quality filleting knife is a must for the avid angler

There’s no fuel in Purnululu National Park, so if you plan on exploring for a few days a spare jerry of diesel doesn’t hurt.

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THE ANGLE OF THE DANGLE Designing your own knife is a real thrill Grinding wheels are a thing of the past with paper wheels the way to go

Some knives have elements of an all-round camp knife, but check it suits your purpose

There are thousands of commercial gadgets that promise to ‘sharpen’ a knife. But regrettably, most of these will simply destroy your blade as they grind away material at a remarkable rate. If you value your blades, a far better alternative is to find yourself a good sharpening steel, or sharpening stone. Even the unglazed rim from the bottom of a ceramic tea cup may be a better option than a commercial knife sharpener. Paper sharpening wheels are also common among professionals. These comprise compressed paper wheels that fit on bench grinders or buffers. They’re coated with a silicon substance infused with fine grit or conditioning wax to achieve a sharp edge with minimal damage to the blade’s steel. They can also sharpen serrations. Whatever method you choose, sharpening is all about the ‘angle of the dangle’. Most western knives with a flat grind need a blade that is sharpened at the following angles:

-30o for a general chopping edge (think meat cleaver) -25o for a general purpose (think carver) -20o for fine slicing (think fillet) -17o for a razor

A custom-made bone handle knife

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Adventure Paddle UK

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UK

RACE al ong the lakes

Up against the clock, Pat Kinsella and his crew attempt to paddle the longest lakes in Scotland, England and Wales - and finish before last drinks at the pub. WORDS Pat Kinsella PICS Pat Kinsella and Dave Basset t

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Adventure Paddle UK

UK

With more than 600km of driving to do between the lakes, you need to get used to the motorway views

We were taking on

Three Lakes Chall enge the

Three blokes versus three lakes – the challenge begins

W

hatever else we expected from our aquatic adventure, not for a single second did it occur to us that we might come within a swan’s schlong of setting a record. But one of the things that makes Britain great for challenge-chasing outdoorsy types is its scale. Unlike Australia, where you can drive all day and not escape your home state, in the UK, three completely culturally distinct countries are contained on one little island that can be crossed by car in a matter of hours. Inevitably, this prompts people to set off in pursuit of various treble-themed forays into Britain’s back country. The classic is the three peaks, where walkers and trail runners try to scale the highest mountains in England (Scafell Peak), Scotland (Ben Nevis) and Wales (Snowdon) within a single day. Our objective was different. We were taking on the Th ree Lakes Challenge, a relatively new notion whereby kayakers attempt to paddle the longest lakes in each of the three countries that comprise the British mainland within 24 hours: Llyn Tegid ( 11km in Wales), Windermere ( 17.5km in England), and Loch Awe ( 10km in Scotland). Of course, imposing such tight time restraints on three-headed outdoor odysseys that take place across some of the UK’s finest locations is completely ridiculous. It’s borderline obscene to rush these pretty peaks, or speed-paddle such perfect puddles, instead of savouring the scene and enjoying the experience.

But who can resist the chance to take on a dare that tests fitness, friendship and fate? Not me. As soon as I learned about it, I knew I had to give the Three Lakes Challenge a crack, and it didn’t take long to find two willing paddling partners: Neil and Rich. Our decision to attempt the quest was made in a pub, and that’s where it needed to end. Rich’s house is just above a boozer, aptly named the Waterman’s Arms, and as we drove past it at first light on the Saturday morning our mission began, and we set ourselves an additional goal. Not only would we try to paddle Britain’s biggest bodies of water in 24 hours, we were determined to do it in time to return here before last orders on Sunday, to see if our wannabe watermen’s arms were still willing and able to pick up a pint. THE PLAN Initially we decided to start in Scotland, paddling Loch Awe with fresh muscles and clear heads, but hours before setting off, the order was utterly reversed. Our new route was designed around drive times, prevailing winds and hours of sunlight, and if all went to plan, we would be driving during the night on quiet roads and paddling during the day. However, I know from previous experience, that nothing is simple when you’re driving more than 600km along British roads, through some of the country’s most popular tourist areas, in the height of summer. The last time I did the three peaks – during an ill-advised sort-of stag-do dash around the country a few days before my wedding – I finished with one minute to spare. One extra red light would have scuppered my mission, which nearly sank my marriage before it had even started. On such fine margins – many of which fall outside of your control and have little to do with how fast you complete the physical side of the challenge – these things precariously pirouette. WALES At Llyn Tegid (aka Lake Bala), we encountered a beach busy with sunbathers and launched amid an armada of squealing kids on inflatables. But as the stopwatch started and we began burying blades into the water in earnest, we soon left the throng behind. Rich, the fittest member of our mob, sprinted ahead, while Neil, the best paddler, mindful that we were beginning a marathon, kept the pace steady. I just tried to hang on, as we powered up the lake into a feisty headwind. Th is lake requires kayakers to do an up-and-back loop, as there’s no take-out point at the far end. Fortunately, Bala is barely 5.5km long, so this isn’t too tough, and we had a tailwind during the return. We did the distance quicker than expected (one hour 12 minutes), wrongfooting our support driver Dave, who was still scouring the water with his binoculars after we’d hauled the boats onto the beach. As punishment he was sent to get a round of ice-creams – recovery food of champions – while we packed up.

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I know from previous experience, that nothing is simple when you're driving more than 600km along British roads

PAT'S PADDLE TIPS FOR CHALLENGE CHASERS

600km along British roads, through some of the country’s most popular tourist areas

1

3

Put in long sessions during training. Llyn Tegid and Windermere are pleasure paddles, but Loch Awe demands real endurance.

2

Chase a tailwind – check the forecast and paddle with the wind on your back, even if that means changing plans last minute. A strong headwind will make the experience unpleasant and could completely scupper your challenge.

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Study the maps and be familiar with the features of each lake.

Design your mission to avoid the worst traffic snarl ups, steering well clear of urban areas around rush hours.

1

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Have a non-paddling driver as part of your crew, and make sure that person sleeps while you’re on the water. Share the driving and stay safe.

About to hit the water on lake number one: Llyn Tegid in Wales

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Adventure Paddle UK

Windermere, in England's Lake District, was like glass, reflecting the dipping sun

UK

WHILE YOU’RE THERE… There’s no time for sightseeing during this 24-hour challenge, but these three lakes are located in the loveliest parts of the UK, so spend time exploring the areas before and after your mission. Loch Awe is in the Scottish Highlands, between Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park and the wonderful west coast (where the sea kayaking is truly awesome); Llyn Tegid is just east of sensational Snowdonia National Park; and Windermere is within England’s Lake District, which was awarded UNESCO World Heritage Status while we were paddling.

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By 10pm the lights of Ambleside were in view, and a fantastic full moon had arisen to watch us paddle into port after exactly two hours on the water

Rich stocks up on supplies before hitting Windermere

The Think Ace surf ski was the perfect craft for this mission Neil cruises past yachts on Windermere

After 40 plus kilometres of paddling on Loch Awe, Kilchurn Castle is a sight for sore eyes

ENGLAND The section between North Wales and the Lake District was the driving leg that worried me most, but we breezed it without any delays. Still, it was 8.30pm by the time we launched on Windermere, giving us just two hours of light to reach the other end. The dying day was a thing of beauty though, and a gentle tailwind nudged us along a mirror-like lake, the reflection occasionally shattered by yachts and a single speedboat. As they passed, we rode the ripples and harnessed their wash, keeping up an average speed of around 10km/h. By 10pm the lights of Ambleside were in view, and a fantastic full moon had arisen to watch us paddle into port after exactly two hours on the water. Dave was ready this time, and we immediately headed for the Highlands.

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Adventure Paddle UK

SCOTLAND The mean streets of Glasgow were deserted in the wee hours, and we made good time, pulling into Lochgilphead car park at the southern end of Loch Awe at 5.30am on Sunday. Tumbling out of the wagon, now full of the detritus of half-adozen motorway service station stops, we tried forcing breakfast down amid the drizzle of a new day. Shivering, stiff and sleep deprived, we were anxious to get started on the crux move of the challenge: a paddle over twice the distance of anything we’d tackled thus far. The rain was relentless, but the forecast following wind turned up as promised to help push us along, and we soon warmed to the task, surfing on the back of little running waves. The loch – allegedly home to a Nessie-like beast called Beathach Mòr Loch – is immense. Punctuated by little uninhabited islands, its banks are utterly wild. Bar the occasional hint of a house in the hills, there was no sign of life, man or monster, beyond our paddling party. After 20km, muscle fatigue kicked in big time, along with the bum-numbness that always accompanies long-distance paddles. We were flagging, but bananas, chocolate bars and energy gels worked their magic, and eventually the silhouette of Kilchurn Castle loomed out of the mist, signalling the end. Reaching the 15th-century ruin before 10am, comfortably within the 24 hour time limit, we wasted half an hour taking photos beneath the castle, before paddling around the corner to

the official take-out, where Dave eagerly awaited. “What kept you?” he quipped, as we stopped the watch, recording a time of four hours 51 minutes on the loch, making a combined paddling time of eight hours, 3 minutes and 55 seconds, and a total expedition time of almost exactly 20 hours. Stoked with those results, but cloudyheaded with tiredness, it took ages to dawn on me that we’d set a new fastest-time for solo paddlers. The quickest ever recorded completion of the paddling legs is six hours 16 minutes – set by Craig Duff and Steph Roberts, two competitive kayakers paddling a K2 (two-person racing kayak) – but we’d shaved over an hour off the fastest time set in individual boats. Bonus. All that remained was an 11 hour down country dash to get to the pub and celebrate before last orders. HOME AND HOSED Swinging into the Waterman’s Arms car park at exactly 10.30pm, we were just in time to see the taproom lights going out. Panic overcame fatigue, and we dashed for the door, only to find it locked. No! However the side entrance was still open, and we bundled into the bar, where the startled landlord confirmed our worst fears. “Sorry lads, we’re shut.” After hearing our story, however, he quickly poured four pints. “How could I say no to that,” he said. “You idiots.” For more about the Three Lakes Challenge, visit www.britishcanoeing.org.uk

A strong headwind on Llyn Tegid couldn't deter the determination of the paddlers

UK

There’s no fuel in Purnululu National Park, so if you plan on exploring for a few days a spare jerry of diesel doesn’t hurt.

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TOP GEAR

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Visibility wasn't great on Loch Awe, allegedly home to a monster

"Sorry lads, we're shut." After hearing our story, however, he quickly poured four pints. "How could I say no to that," he said. "You idiots." Mission successful – and a new record in the bag to boot

People have completed the challenge in kayaks, canoes and SUPs, but the ideal craft is a surf ski: fast on the water, light to carry and easy to remount in the event of a capsize. I paddled a Think Ace. You should also take the following:

2 3

Lightweight (carbon) wing-style paddle for stroke efďŹ ciency

Sat Nav for the driving, and paper maps for all three areas (Ordnance Survey Explorer sheets 360, OL7 and OL 23)

4 5

A good set of binoculars for your driver, and two-way radios for communication

Cags and warm clothes stashed in a dry bag

Despite weary arms and a closed pub, nothing was getting in the way of a victory pint

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Tech Guide to kayaks

lobyat fon The complete guide to all the gear and every idea you need before you jump in the water with your kayak.

Sea kay ak

WORDS AND PICS Dan Everet t

SIt-o kay akn

White water kay ak

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Recreational kay ak

Canad i canoean

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Tech Guide to kayaks

With a  at wide base and a short overall length, sit-ons are stable and easier to manoeuvre, making them perfect for beginners

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The needs for a solo sea kayaker are vastly different to someone exploring the backwaters with a group of friends

S

tarting a new hobby can be intimidating. I should know, I’ve done it about three million times so far, and there’s a few more expensive hobbies to take up once I win Lotto. The combination of research, and the risk of blowing cash making a mistake is a barrier for most people. It ends with idea after idea being put on the ‘maybe one day’ pile that never gets smaller. However if kayaking is on your list, we’ve put together a guide that will make your dream achievable. We’ve covered everything you need to get started, from the pros and cons of the popular styles, to how to pick a kayak that’ll suit your needs, and even how to steer it once it’s in the water. THE GLASS SLIPPER Instagram is great for inspiration, and has motivated many of us to try new things (like taking birds-eye view photos of our lunch), but it’s also good at pointing people in the wrong direction. It’s inspiring seeing someone circumnavigate the globe. However if you’re spending your weekends traversing rivers and lakes, you won’t need the expensive kayak they’ve got, the thousands of dollars’ worth of gear, or the carbon-fibre paddle. Consider what your needs are. That includes the waterways you’ll be on, how long you’ll be on the water, and who you’ll be travelling with. The needs for a solo sea kayaker are vastly different to someone exploring the backwaters with a group of friends. You can’t get the right setup until you identify what you’ll be doing with it.

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Tech Guide to kayaks

THE DEVIL’S IN THE DETAIL No matter what style of kayak you’re looking at, there’s a few specific design elements that’ll affect everything from how it turns, to how easy it is to get in and out of.

Length With kayak length you’ve got speed on one end and turning ability on the other. The longer a kayak is, the straighter it’ll track, and the faster it’ll travel. In wide open water where you’ve got plenty of distance to cover and turning isn’t as important, you’ll favour a long kayak. If you’re punting around tight waterways where manoeuvrability is key, a shorter kayak will suit you better. Width As length determines the kayak’s turning ability, width determines its stability. Wider kayaks can more easily resist rocking, so they’re perfect as a swimming platform, for standing on to fish, or if you’re a first-timer and want to feel confident getting in and out of the water. A narrower kayak pushes less water out of the way moving forward, trading that stability for extra speed. There’s a reason racing kayaks are long and skinny. Hull shape In kayaking, stability is broken up into two categories, primary and secondary. Primary stability is how steady the kayak is when sitting flat, making a stable platform for standing or diving, and easier entry and exit. Secondary stability is how stable the kayak is on an angle, giving confidence in rough waters and cornering. The design difference that affects this is known as the ‘chine’, or how many hard edges in the hull. A hard chine or V profile, will have greater primary stability with lesser secondary stability. A soft chine or curved hull will be the opposite. Multi-chine hulls fall somewhere in between depending on how they’re designed. Rocker The rocker, or curve of the boat from front to rear, affects the manoeuvrability and tracking of the kayak. The more aggressive the curve from front to rear, the less surface there is holding the boat in place. It will be easier to turn and it will also glide through rough water easily. The downside is it will tend to wander more and be difficult to keep in a straight line. A kayak with a straight hull will track straighter and hold steadier in windy conditions at the expense of manoeuvrability. Rudders While a rudder on a kayak might make it look like professional kit, they’re not always needed or even wanted. They’re often found on longer, skinnier kayaks to aid in turning ability and stability. They can either be controlled via foot sliders, or toe-operated paddles. They will add drag, making it harder work and can cause issues with submerged objects if they’re not retractable. Some kayaks will run a ‘skeg’, or non-steerable rudder which can aid in tracking. Material While there's a million combinations of kayak styles, materials are just as important as measurements. Most entry level kayaks will be polyethylene. They are inexpensive and are strong, but will scratch easily and are heavy. Polycarbonates reduce weight but aren’t as robust. Expensive materials like fibreglass and carbon fibre composites won’t hold up through shallow rock gardens. Timber boats can be light-weight and tailor-made, but expect to pay dearly.

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While there,s a million combinations of kayak styles, materials are just as important as their measurements

Custom built timber kayaks can be pieced together to your exact speciďŹ cations and weigh next to nothing, but expect to pay more than a Korean small car

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Tech Guide to kayaks

There,s plenty of basic paddle styles to get you out on the water. The first is getting your grip right

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THE GOOD OAR

FORWARD STROKE

MINOR CORRECTIONS

LARGER CORRECTIONS

If you’re a pro-level kayaker, there’s roughly a million paddle styles and paddling techniques at your disposal. However, just like you wouldn’t kick off a maths career with algebraic geometry, there’s plenty of basic paddle styles to get you out on the water. The first is getting your grip right. Place the paddle on top of your head then hold both hands up with your elbows at 90 degrees. From here there’s three strokes you’ll need to conquer to be confident on the water.

This is the main stroke you’ll need to master. You’ll essentially run the paddle 90 per cent submerged, from your feet along the length of the kayak until it is level with your hips, then lift it out with your elbow and roll the paddle into the opposite side. This is the most efficient use of your energy without the paddle acting like an anchor or simply stirring the water. The key is to use your large core muscles, with your arms just there to transmit power. Even, consistent strokes will help keep you pointing forward, although you will naturally drift away from your dominant side.

Dragging the paddle momentarily can help either keep you tracking straight, or steer you in a specific direction. To practice, build momentum, then let the paddle rest in the water behind your back. Holding it vertical will act as a skeg keeping you straight, while leaning the top away from the kayak will steer you towards the paddle side. Leaning the top towards the kayak will steer you the opposite.

A sweep stroke will alter your course without robbing you of momentum or energy. Like a forward stroke, a sweep stroke will enter the water at the same location, then travel on a large arc, rather than in a straight line. The stroke is ended behind your back too, rather than parallel to your hips. Performing it from bow to stern will steer you away from the paddle side, while performing it from stern to bow will steer you towards the paddle. 97

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Tech Guide to kayaks

Perfect for beginners, sit on top kayaks differ from most traditional offerings because, well, you sit on top

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STAYING AFLOAT SIT-ON Perfect for beginners, sit on top kayaks differ from most traditional offerings because, well, you sit on top. They’re wide and short making them stable and easily steerable on calm waters, with plenty of on-top storage. They’re exposed to the elements so are a warm weather only option. Despite sitting higher out of the water than other kayaks, their sealed nature and drainage through ‘scupper holes’ makes them impossible to sink, with the trade-off a reduction in speed. They’ll often have an aggressive rocker for manoeuvrability and no rudder. Fishing Fishing kayaks are often sit-on style but are available in sit-in as well. They’re wider set than their counterparts, and allow more primary stability to help when standing, casting, or reeling in. They’ll often incorporate built-in wet boxes or tackle boxes with rod holders and mounting points for GPS units, and fish finders. As they’re a platform for an activity, rather than an activity in themselves, they’re often outfitted with either electric motors, or pedal powered propellers.

Kayaks are popular with keen fishers, so accessories are abundant for most styles and types

Sea Designed for wide open bodies of water, sea kayaks are easily identifiable by their long sleek design, over the 4.5m (15ft) mark. They sit low in the water to reduce the effects of cross winds, and often have rudders or skegs to assist in manoeuvring their longer bodies. As they’re designed for the long haul they’ll have substantial water-proof storage, as well as air-tight compartments to maintain floatation if they become swamped. Their cockpits are tight on the occupant and with a skirt fitted, they will have minimal wateringress, making them more suited to cold weather paddling. For longer expeditions, they can be fitted out with accessories such as sales and out-riggers. Recreational The perfect middle-ground, the recreational kayak aims somewhere between the long sleek speed of a sea-kayak and the agile nature of a sit-on. Generally around 3.6m (12ft) length they’re an all-rounder that’s capable of taking on coastal regions and inland waterways alike. Although not as extensive as a sea-kayak they’ll have plenty of dry and wet storage. They’re wider than a sea-kayak for increased primary stability, and with a higher profile can have more comfortable seats with higher back-rests. Despite having a more open cockpit, they can be fitted with a skirt and still have thighhooks allowing you to muscle the kayak around with your body, not just your arms.

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Tech Guide to kayaks

White water Ditch the storage, drop a few feet off the length, remove all their tracking and you’re left with a white-water kayak. They’re under the 3m (10ft) mark, and are incredibly agile. This makes them ideal for fast flowing rivers where speed is taken care of, letting you concentrate on steering. They have an enclosed cock-pit with a skirt keeping water out, and allowing the paddler to manoeuvre the kayak with their body, including the ability to self-recover. They have an aggressive rocker so will plough through rough water, but are difficult to keep in a straight line so generally aren’t considered beginner friendly. You wouldn’t want to cross a lake in one. Canadian canoe A hundred years ago, canoes and kayaks were easily identifiable. Now, and especially in competition use, the lines are blurred. That said, there are a few key defining aspects in the recreation world that set the two apart. Canoes will typically have a larger open cockpit, with higher sides and a physically larger size. Operators will either kneel in the hull, or sit on a slat style seat. They’ll also paddle with a single ended paddler compared to a kayak’s double ended paddle. Think of them like a dual cab ute. If you’re loading the family into a single boat with a weeks’ worth of camping gear, a canoe is your best option. Inflatable You’re probably thinking of the dodgy inflatable boat you got for Christmas, but inflatable kayaks have improved in leaps and bounds. While they do still have their drawbacks, they’re incredibly compact and lightweight, making them the perfect travel companion and the only option if you’re hiking in. They’re available in most common kayak and canoe styles, but as a general rule, the more you spend the better product you’ll receive. Modular Like inflatable kayaks, modular offerings have a significant size benefit when it comes to finding storage space. They can also be broken down for easier transportation. Available in most common styles, they can easily and quickly be assembled by the water, and have proven more than reliable enough for sea-crossings. They can also be expanded into a tandem arrangement for bringing along a second paddler. The downsides are they are more expensive than their rigid or inflatable counterparts, and do have a slight weight penalty as well.

Life jackets (PFDs) come in a variety of shapes and sizes so do your research before choosing one

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Polyethylene kayaks are heavy but can take a hit, making them ideal for when you're dragging your kayak through rocky creeks

Like inflatable kayaks, modular offerings have a significant size benefit when it comes to finding storage space

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Adventure Mt Stuart

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A tale of two

SUNRISES When a climbing expedition on Mt Stuart in Washington state took a turn for the worse, Corey McCarthy was forced to dig deep to survive the mountain,s demands.

WORDS AND PICS Corey McCart hy

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Adventure Mt Stuart

Corey and Ethan pause for a summit selďŹ e, oblivious to the ordeal that awaits...

Mt Stuart, WA

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My foot

slipped from the wall

T

he sound of rapid breathing filled my ears while my body quivered with fear and exertion. I had two feet, one hand, and all of my hopes crammed as far as I could get them into a granite crack that seemed to stretch the entire 914.4m (3000ft) wall of the North Ridge of Mt Stuart. Fear occupied a larger portion of my mind then normal, too much for me to climb well. I shoved a #1 Camalot into the crack and continued trying to convince my hands to become smaller and give me better purchase. Desperately, I switched from climbing the crack straight into pulling on it sideways, a technique called laybacking. I vaguely realised I’ve never laybacked to the left, only the right. A part of me felt woefully unprepared for the giant day ahead of us, while another part trusted I had the skills to pull this off. Whoosh! Crack! My foot slipped from the wall and took my whole body with it. It was the first fall I took in the alpine. With it fell the shackles of my anxiety. I let out an excited yell as a vast weight of fear left my stomach, I donned the smile of a child and finished climbing the pitch. Now, it was time to get moving. REWIND TO SUMMER 2015 I was 10.6m (35ft) off of the ground without any more gear that would fit the wide crack above me. Columbian Crack is a beautiful 5.7, in the City of Rocks National Reserve in Idaho. It showed me just how much I had to learn about traditional climbing and my severe lack of skills necessary for climbing in the alpine. Ethan and I had set off eastward with a rush of excitement. Summertime road tripping and climbing were our only responsibilities. It was my first summer not working in five years, and we had a recently acquired a double rack of cams, a new 9.2mm climbing rope, and a tick list of climbs we hoped to plug gear on. From Idaho to the Grand Tetons and the Wind River Range, we had aspirations of a great summer spent climbing in the mountains and developing new skills. We surely placed more gear than I ever had in my 10 years of sport climbing, but we still had a long way to go before we started trying long routes in the back country. We pushed ourselves and our gear for the rest of our stay in the City, but trad climbing was hard. And scary. We had reached our threshold of fear and wanted to do something fun. So, we went sport climbing. Then we met some friends in Wyoming, and did some more sport climbing. I put my crack climbing ambitions on the back burner for a bit and

THE OBJECTIVE Mt Stuart is an incredible deposit of granite that is hidden from sight in the heart of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness in central Washington state. The North Ridge is one of the 50 Classic American Climbs and it stretches, nearly unbroken and flawless for 914.4m (3000ft) from the talus field to the summit. Standing at the base, looking up, I couldn’t believe we were about to try and onsight a route as tall as El Capitan. In a day. We were totally committed, leaving the bivvy gear in my van, along with my dog Stella. We figured 16 hours was a conservative estimate to accomplish the goal. We’d be back in town for burgers and beer by sunset. Perfect. As my friend Ethan began climbing towards me, to the top of the third pitch, excitement finally took the place of fear. I began to appreciate where we were, the adventure that we had set ourselves up for, and the certainty of success.

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Adventure Mt Stuart

A feeling of dread sunk into my stomach as I stared down one of the steepest couloirs I,ve even seen

Corey's adventures on homeland mountains inspired him to journey to Patagonia last winter

enjoyed fun times with friends. Fast forward to the following summer at Smith Rock in Oregon. I decided to continue my learning with new fervor. This was especially after meeting a beautiful young alpinist who was keen on teaching me to trad climb, as well as savour lazy weekday mornings enjoying coffee, sunshine, and love. After a couple of months of pushing my limits under her tutelage, I was confidently climbing 5.10 on gear. I was stoked with my progress and newfound confidence while moving over alpine granite. It was time to plan a trip.

Ethan pondering the dramatic peaks of the North Cascades

FACING MT STUART Ethan has always had more confidence than experience, but for him, one has always led to the other. He embodies the spirit of every young person who desires to set out into the world and expects it to show us the way. His desire for raw, unaltered experience should be the needle for our universal compass. As he climbed towards me about to begin the first round of unbelayed, simul-climbing, I knew that there was no other person that I’d rather be with. Smiling, he greeted me at the belay and we began getting ready. He took all of the various widgets (cams, stoppers, and slings), and we both coiled some rope around our shoulders to reduce the length to around 30m. The goal would be to always have one to two pieces of gear between us, and to try to climb at roughly the same speed. That way the leader would have a sort of moving belay, but the follower cannot fall or he will rip the leader off the wall. It’s a much faster and less committing way to move in easy terrain while still maintaining the safety of a rope. Ethan took one last look around the valley. Stuart Lake shimmered down below and the North Cascades stretched into the distance, snow capped peaks tantalising us with future adventure. He started climbing and I belayed until the end of the 30m. When the rope became taut, I too started climbing. To look at a pair of humans moving together upon a giant spine of granite must be quite the sight. In the moment it surely feels majestic, occasionally heroic! To have the privilege and the skill to experience mountains in this way is something that never gets old. It always inspires as well as induces gratitude for my decisions that led me to the said moment. Watching Ethan move gracefully

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This track is the ultimate way to test a mountain biker's mettle

"The descent route looks pretty easy to ďŹ nd..."

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Adventure Mt Stuart

with air and the world beneath him, I was aware that elsewhere people were living their lives as best they could, like any other Tuesday, but we had chosen to do something spectacular. We climbed for the next seven hours, meeting each other on ledges to switch gear and leaders three more times before the summit. After nearly 900m of climbing, we found ourselves on top of the Enchantment Massif looking out upon a setting sun and gentle Cascade giants in the distance. We sat and pondered the beauty of the moment and the day, before we were joined by a couple of women who had just completed the Upper North Ridge in a day from the south side approach. After hearing that we had planned on a car-to-car from Stuart Lake Trailhead (long descent), they offered us a ride back to our cars if we wanted to hike out with them. It was a sweet offer. We didn’t realise that we should have taken it until 45 minutes later, as we topped out the wrong, loose, sketchy gully just in time for the sun to go down, and us to realise we were f***ed. Or, at the least, we were committed to a long, unplanned evening outside. A feeling of dread sunk into my stomach as I stared down one of the steepest couloirs I’ve even seen. I realised we were not where I thought we were and, in fact, were still quite far from where I wanted to be. And we had exhausted our daylight. “Lets just lay down here, it’s a nice flat spot, and we can wait for morning,” Ethan said. The last thing I wanted to do was spend the entire night shivering on that spot of earth, and I said something similar.

“This is really unsafe terrain to be moving around in the dark,” Ethan said. “And we don’t know where we are.” This was true. I argued that if we moved carefully and slowly we would at least stay warm and maybe even find our intended path up and over the mountain. We were out of water, but still had a few bars each. If I was going to run out of something, it better not be food. Ethan agreed that we should keep moving for a bit. We descended the gully via one short rappel off someone else’s bail anchors, and lots of loose down-climbing. At least we weren’t the first to think this gully went somewhere. The darkness became complete and our thirst became great. We navigated with a topo, a compass, and the few stars along the horizon to judge the shape of the terrain above us. It was questionable at best (the first thing I did upon arrival to civilisation was to download an offline navigator). But, somehow after several hours of bumbling we found Sherpa Pass. Ethan’s headlight had died hours ago, so mine was pulling double duty. We down climbed between the Sherpa Glacier and the cliff, one hand on snow the other on terrible rock. It was by far the most dangerous thing we did that day, but the snow was much too hard to walk on as planned. Back on the talus field and the right side of the mountain, the sound of glacier melt water below the rocks we were walking on intensified our thirst. After far too many minutes, we found a small opening. Down on our knees, we filled our bellies with the stuff. I know that we both felt an amazing relief at that moment. Up until then our

Watching the sunset from the summit

There’s no fuel in Purnululu National Park, so if you plan on exploring for a few days a spare jerry of diesel doesn’t hurt.

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circumstance was somewhat unknown, but now we could hope for burgers again. We talked at moments, joked at others, but mostly, the air was filled with perseverance and determination. It was also saturated with stress and moodiness. At one point, Ethan said something to me that struck me as rude. I said so, and he didn’t respond. We walked hours in silence. When we couldn’t find our stashed backpacks, we decided we would come back “in the morning”. It was nearly 24 hours after we had left my van. We didn’t care about much besides sleep in that moment. When we finally hit the trail, Ethan lay upon the dirt and fell asleep. I was worried about Stella, locked in the van, and I switched into power walk mode. I made it back to my van 26 hours after I left it. I took note of the fact that I’d never watched two sunrises in the same day, but had energy to remember little else of the walk. Stella was cuddled in the bed, tucked beneath the blankets with a smile pulled on her lips. I let her out, fed her, and collapsed upon my mattress. I stared at the ceiling for a moment, amazed she’d held her bowels for that long. A few hours later, I heard Ethan approaching. He opened the door and I was shocked to see he had found our packs. He looked at me and said, “I’m sorry for what I said last night. I was tired and grumpy and I didn’t mean it. I love you brother Corey!” Smiling, I told him I knew all those things, but I was happy to hear him say them. I threw my arms around him and laughed. “What’s for breakfast?”

THE LESSON The mountains have the ability to shape us. Through experiences that we have around them and on them, they whittle words of wisdom upon our souls. The greater your goals in them become, the more they demand from us, but also, the more they can give. That day on Mt Stuart will live on in my memory as a day that I dug as deep as I could into my reserves of patience, hope, and stamina, and found that there was no bottom. There is no limit to what our bodies and minds can do if we give ourselves the gift of digging. Get out there and feed your passion for life. Water the soil of your soul.

There's no greater reward for an adventurous ordeal than a double-bacon cheeseburger and milkshake

Image: Christopher Marshall

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Shootout Head torches

BD S pot Nitecore H A20 Vizz P. Tec

Petzl Actik

Kath. Ra ven 200

Fenix HL2 6R LED Lens er MH6

+ En. Vision HD

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head torch

S HO O T OU T

LIGHT the way WORDS AND PICS Dan Slater DRONE PIC PORT ER IMAGES

Forget juggling bulky torches in the middle of the night at camp. A head torch is one of the most valuable additions you can make to your kit. We,ve put eight of them to the test so you can choose yours faster.

H

ead torches are one of the most useful pieces of kit we can carry. They light the way, generally weigh under 100g, and fit in the palm of your hand. The first modern head torches were incandescent models that barely shed more light than a full moon, but LEDs changed the game. Initially LED brightness was only in the tens of lumens, but now the specs seem to increase every six months. We’ve definitely come a long way since a coal miner strapped a candle to his head, and walked to the depths of the earth with his canary. Modern head torches can have many different modes including flood beam, diffuse beam, coloured LEDs and strobe settings. With an increase in quality and price come more features like regulated output, locking mechanisms, and low temperature performance. Some manufacturers now test the brightness of their torches using

the American National Standards Institute specification, called ANSI FL1. The idea is this will enable side-by-side output comparisons with one model’s 200 lumens guaranteed the same as another. However, this standard has not been widely adopted. All head torches are generally designed to be water resistant and are given an Ingress Protection (IP) rating, where the fi rst number relates to dust protection and the second to water. Where a unit has not been tested for dust, the number is substituted by an X (see table). The head torches for this review were purchased by Outdoor, to guarantee impartial judging. They were selected as the most appropriate for combined night hiking and camping scenarios. There are other models designed for night running, night mountain biking, and caving, but these eight were chosen to be approximately equivalent in specifications.

Below is a relevant excerpt from the Ingress Protection Ratings table, the second digit applies to liquid ingress:

IP Rating

Protected Against

Definition

IPX4

Splashing water

Water splashing against the enclosure from any direction shall have no harmful effect.

IPX5

Water jets

Water projected by a nozzle (6.3mm) against enclosure from any direction shall have no harmful effects.

IPX6

Powerful water jets

Water projected in powerful jets (12.5mm nozzle) against the enclosure from any direction shall have no harmful effects.

IPX7

Immersion up to 1m

Ingress of water in harmful quantity shall not be possible when the enclosure is immersed in water under defined conditions of pressure and time (up to 1m of submersion).

Immersion beyond 1m

The equipment is suitable for continuous immersion in water under conditions which shall be specified by the manufacturer. Normally, this will mean that the equipment is hermetically sealed. However, with certain types of equipment, it can mean that water can enter but only in such a manner that it produces no harmful effects.

IPX8

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Shootout Head torches

PUT TO THE TEST

We field tested for beam strength and longevity, durability, waterproof quality and general usability. Beam strength is difficult to accurately measure outside of a laboratory, so the results should be taken as anecdotal. It was interesting to note the difference in beam temperature, with light ranging from warm yellow to cool white and many tints in between. The water IP rating for those units IPX6 and below, was tested by spraying thoroughly from all angles for at least 30 seconds with a hose. For those units IPX7 and above, test was by immersion in water for the appropriate length of time. All passed except where noted. Durability was tested by dropping each unit three times from head height onto the face, back and side. While some battery compartments popped open on impact, there was no permanent damage. Weights were checked with digital scales and, except for the Nitecore, were all within a couple of grams of the advertised figure.

Max. Strength 200 200 200

Weight

Max. Beam 80m 120m 105m

Waterproof

Batteries

Runtime

Price

Warranty

90g 94g 88g

# Modes 6 5 6

IPX8 IPX6 IPX4

3 x AAA R 3 x AAA

50 – 200 h 20 h 5 – 100 h

$79.95 $109.95 $119.98

3 years 7 years -

P. Tec Vizz

205

94g

3

78m

IPX7

3 x AAA

110 h

$99.95

10 years

Fenix HL26R

450

86g

7

100m

IP66

R

1.5 – 100 h

$99.95

Limited lifetime

Nitecore HA20

300

*61g/156g

5

110m

IP67

2 x AA

1.75 – 160 h

$99.95

5 years

En. Vision HD+

250

88g

4

80m

IPX4

3 x AAA

50h

$37.99

Limited lifetime

Petzl Actik

300

90g

5

90m

IPX4

3 x AAA

60 – 260 h

$79.95

5 years

Model BD Spot LED Lenser MH6 Kath. Raven 200

*Not including batteries

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N IT ECORE HA20

head torch

S HO O T OU T

KAT HMAN RAVEN 2 DU 00

LED LENSER MH6

FEN IX HL26R

PRINCET ON T EC VIZZ

BLACK DIAMOND SPOT

ENERGISE+R VISION HD

PET ZL ACT IK

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Shootout Head torches

Most Water proof

Simplest Operation

KAT HMAN RAVEN 2 DU 00

st Toughe

PRINCET ON T EC VIZZ

Brightest

N IT ECORE HA20

LED S LEN ER MH6

O

P

C

Z

Battery Life Luminosity Value for money Outdoor rating

Battery Life Luminosity Value for money Outdoor rating

Battery Life Luminosity Value for money Outdoor rating

Battery Life Luminosity Value for money Outdoor rating

n to Kathmandu, the kings of entrylevel camping equipment. On paper, the Raven 200 looks equal to its contemporaries. However, on inserting the Duracell batteries I noticed the compartment latch was flimsy. The unit popped open during the drop test and batteries flew everywhere, but the catch was not damaged and the torch worked fine. Operation is simple, with the torch in either of two ‘loops’, red (two settings) or white (four settings). The white loop runs through brightnesses of 200 lumens, 100 lumens, 20 lumens and then strobe mode, beginning anew at every fresh operation. The higher tech brands have mostly worked out how to memorise the last used setting. Interestingly the Raven’s high beam did seem bright compared to some of the higher status models, if a bit yellow. That the Raven 200 is the most expensive model in this review says more about Kathmandu’s pricing structure than its quality. Only a mug would pay full price for this; it’s a reasonable purchase at half that.

rinceton Tec has been around for over 40 years, from small beginnings in a New Jersey dive shop. Lighting has overtaken dive gear to become the company’s main product line, but it is still a family business with all units manufactured in the US. The Vizz – “one headlamp to rule them all” according to the website – is cleverly programmed to always switch on with the red LED, preserving night vision no matter what mode it was switched off in. The twin ultrabright LEDS (as opposed to the single Maxbright LED) dim continuously when the button is held down. Rated IPX7, the Vizz’s battery compartment appears to make a good watertight seal due to its silicone component and the unique screw closure. A plus for all Princeton Tec head torches, is regulated output. While unregulated beams begin to quickly dim, the Vizz maintains uniform output for up to six hours. The difference is hard to perceive and the regulation is temporary, so it’s debatable how much this should influence your choice.

hinese company, Nitecore focuses on professional and tactical users, but on paper the HA 20 looks feature heavy. The body is a die-cast aluminium alloy, and the metal body also improves its heat dissipation efficiency. Another Cree XP-G2 powers the wide-angle main beam, which provides 100 degrees of side-to-side coverage. The red LEDS are remarkably bright, doubling as a battery indicator with a brief half press of the switch. The two-way rotation (up and down) of the housing gives even more coverage, and acts as travel protection for the switch. A two-stage design accesses all modes easily including SOS, location beacon and police warning. All these features incur a weight penalty. Listing its weight as 61g without batteries, the HA20 appears to be the lightest of the lot whereas in reality it is the heaviest at 156g. Nitecore justify this figure by not including batteries in the purchase price, and it's also the only model to use AA batteries. Due to its weight, the HA20 is the only model tested which has an over-the-head strap.

weibruder Optoelectronics and owners of LED Lenser, are often credited with kick-starting the LED revolution. They've released their first outdoor range of lighting which includes three head torches, of which the MH6 is the middle-spec unit. The single button operation is simple: one push for full beam, two for low beam (15 per cent) and three for strobe. A two second push switches the beam to red, better for maintaining your night vision during a brief map check and not blinding your mates. The MH6 also has a button lock, dimming feature and low battery light, plus a basic carabiner-type clip on the headband. It’s plastic and looks strong but you could break it if you tried. The MH6 uses a replaceable polymer 3.7V rechargeable battery of 3.26Wh capacity (included), which lasts for 20 hours on maximum setting. The battery is charged via USB (cable included). Another feature is the Advanced Focus System (AFS). A twist of the lens changes the light from high to low beam, removing the need for separate LEDs. In the brightness test the MH6 clearly outshone the others (sorry).

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head torch

S HO O T OU T

Cleanest Light

Best Value

ENERGIS VISION HDER +

st Longtein g Las

FEN IX HL26R

Most Functional

BLACK DIAMOND SPOT

PET ZL ACT IK

B

hina’s Fenix make excellent fl ashlights, but how are their head torches? The HL26R is a rechargeable unit, with an inbuilt 1600mAh lithium-polymer battery, accessed by a micro-USB charging port on the underside. Presumably, when the battery dies it’s time to bury the whole unit. Marketed for trail running, at 450 lumens the HL26R is supposedly the brightest on test. Not all LEDs are created equal, and Fenix use a Cree XP-G2 R5 white LED with a lifespan of 50,000 hours. The beam doesn’t appear to be much brighter than its competitors, until you look into its burning heart. Warning – never look directly into a head torch. I’m now typing this on a Braille keyboard. The HL26R has two buttons. One operates the spotlight (single 130 lumen LED, memorises last setting) and one the floodlight (twin 40 lumen LEDs, defaults to lowest setting). Should you be running along a cliff there is also the bright Burst mode, but this returns to the last known setting after a minute so hopefully you’ve passed the tricky bit by then.

C

his French climbing brand could plausibly claim to be the originator of the modern day head torch with their 1981 Zoom model. It was the first that incorporated a lightweight power pack into the headband and ran on a 4.5V battery with an incandescent bulb, although the bulb was about the size of car headlamp. With the Actik, the standard five modes are all present, including a memory, and are good for a range of uses. In white mode the torch always comes onto the lowest setting, with which the battery claims to last 260 hours. And yep, true to their word, it stayed on for 11 days straight! The headband has reflective details and comes with a moulded whistle in the buckle, which is surprisingly loud. Packaged with a set of AAAs, the Actik is also compatible with Petzl’s Core rechargeable battery, a 1250 mAh lithiumion cell. Petzl have one of the best reputations in this market but the Actik falls down in not having a button lock, a low waterproof rating, and to the naked eye, the output didn’t seem like the 300 lumens it claimed.

T

A

Battery Life Luminosity Value for money Outdoor rating

Battery Life Luminosity Value for money Outdoor rating

Battery Life Luminosity Value for money Outdoor rating

Battery Life Luminosity Value for money Outdoor rating

y far the cheapest on test at $37.95, expectations for the Energiser head torch were relatively low. Having a history in battery manufacture does not necessarily prepare a company to design the devices in which its batteries are used, but as long as the resulting product works then there’s always a place for entry level gear. The Vision HD+ has a single button that cycles through the four modes the same with each new use (no memory): red LED–full beam–flood beam–spot beam. Adjusting the downward angle of the body is nervewracking, as the hinge resists strongly before clicking into place with a loud crack, not unlike a femur breaking. The 50 hour run time is low compared to others, and the beam distance was one of the weakest. The Vision HD+ displays a worrying tendency to unhook from its head strap and the body also showed signs of water ingress after the hose test. Although the battery compartment and lamp weren’t affected, a sustained and heavy downpour might end badly. However, at half the price of its closest competitor it may be worth it.

current market leader, Black Diamond has been around in one form or another since 1957. The Spot, if you can get it out of the Fort Knox-like packaging, is unique in this test for having an IP rating of IPX8. This means it can withstand continuous immersion in water up to three metres. The battery compartment doesn’t have any sort of silicone seal so although in testing the torch stayed on for an hour underwater, there was water inside the compartment afterwards and slight rust on the contacts a couple of days later. A plus for the Spot is its locking mechanism. Hold down the button for six seconds and there’s no chance of the torch switching on accidentally in your pack. It has a flood LED for distance vision and a smaller light for close work. Combine the two for maximum output, either with a long click or temporarily using the Power Tap feature. It has a nifty dimmer feature too. The model tested was 200 lumens but by the time you read this, the new 300 lumen model should be available.

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Adventure Mt Batur, Bali

WORDS Anna Pa st ukhova PICS Dmit ri Lazariuc

VOLCANO with a view Nothing beats a hike with a view, especially when it comes in the form of a brilliant sunrise from the vantage point of Bali,s active Mt Batur.

Check ou t t he v ideo at w w w. ou tdoora ust ra lia .com

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I like to

A

walk

ll my friends know that if I’m given a choice, in any situation, I’d always take my favourite bus number 11 – that is, my two legs. This sometimes makes me a terrible travel companion. Go on holiday with me, and you’ll soon find I have a tendency to squeeze every last bit of energy out of you, until you’re out of breath and your legs feel numb. That’s why the thought of waking up at 2am and hiking up a volcano to see the sunrise didn’t seem a crazy idea to me. The challenge was to convince my six family members, who possibly had a different idea about what a holiday in Bali should be. So I put my salesperson hat on, and with enthusiasm told them about a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to walk on an active volcano. Clearly, my persuasion skills are as robust as my walking, because they were sold.

Bathing in the warm glow of the Mt Batur sunrise - and the relief at the end of the hike

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Adventure Mt Batur, Bali

EARLY MORNING ENTHUSIASM At 2am I ran through the rooms of our Ubud villa, and found my fellow adventurers wide awake and almost ready to go. We boarded our family touring van for an hour’s drive up the winding roads of central Bali. Being able to doze off on transport is a talent I acquired a long time ago, and it’s one that certainly comes in handy when travelling. I closed my eyes… and we arrived at our destination. At the foot of the volcano, our driver Putu handed us over to two hiking guides - Komang and Komang. “What are the chances?,” we thought. “It’s because we are both the third child in our families,” they explained. Here’s some trivia – in Bali, all children are named by birth order, up to number four, and then they start over. The first child can be Putu, Wayan or Gede, the second - Made, Kadek or Nengah, the third - Komang or Nyoman, and the fourth is Ketut. As interesting as this was, there was no time to ponder Balinese naming traditions. By now it was 3.30am and the carpark was full. We clearly weren’t the only ones prepared to get up in the middle of the night for an adventure. Our guides, the Komangs, were keen to get going. It was their goal to get us to the top before sunrise, so we grabbed our backpacks and got on the way. The first part of the walk seemed easy – a wide gravel road with a slight incline. I even started to feel the early morning chill, which was a nice change after a few stinking hot days and high humidity. We walked quite fast in order to keep warm and our guides were happy we were making good time. Then we hit the end of the road. Puzzled, I asked one of the Komangs where we were headed.

“Straight ahead,” he pointed to a track barely visible in the dark. “We are already half way up,” he encouraged. His encouragement was much needed at this point, as the second half of the track was the complete opposite of the first. It was narrow, steep, slippery, and winding, with lots of loose rocks to trip over in the darkness. Our torches definitely came in handy. Being a larger group of people with varying fitness levels we moved quite slow, stopping for a breather and some water at every turn of the track. We were overtaken by quite a few other groups of tourists, speaking French, German and Chinese. I started to feel grateful the Komangs were so keen to get moving earlier, as we had a little extra time up our sleeves. Up ahead, I saw a string of moving lights going up the hill. Where the string ended, was where we needed to be. THE REWARD AT THE TOP An hour later we reached the top. It was just in time too – the sun was about to rise. The observation platform was getting a little crowded and I started to wonder if I’d get a front row spot to take a picture. There was a second platform a little further up, but Komang was worried that it was covered in fog that wouldn’t lift in time and he offered to take me to a ‘secret spot’. We walked about 10m down and around the corner, and voila! I had the view to myself, was positioned right under the platform, and didn’t have to fight for a spot with anyone. We didn’t have to wait long for the first bursts of red to come through the clouds. At this point, it was time to finally relax. After the walk, my legs were more than warm – I could definitely skip the gym today. As we enjoyed coffee and banana sandwiches, the valley lit up, and we were exposed to the beautiful lake and another volcano-shaped mountain behind it.

CLIMBING MT BATUR

Mt Batur

Status: Active volcano Location coordinates: 8.24 S, 115.37 E Top elevation: 1,717m Last eruption: 2000 Base elevation: 1031m Track distance: 5km Total ascent: 686m Tracking time (each way): Two hours When to visit: Nov-Apr (rainy season) 150-200 people per day; May-Oct (dry season) 500-800 people per day; the busiest time is Jul-Aug with 800 people per day

Denpasar

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Lake Batur lies in the lowest part of the volcano's crater

As the valley lit up, we were exposed to the sight of a beautiful lake and another volcano-shaped mountain behind it

Capturing some of the stunning scenes from the walk

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Adventure Mt Batur, Bali

WHAT TO TAKE?

Batur is a volcano that’s formed inside of another volcano crater. The mountains surrounding it are actually edges of the other crater, and the lake, also called Batur, lies in the lower part of that large crater. These layers add to the remarkable landscape. When the sun fully appeared from behind the clouds, we met some locals - groups of cheeky monkeys eager to score some food. Many of them were successful – they are quick and know where to hide, so they have the upper hand. One even managed to steal a banana from a table surrounded by hikers. It appeared out of nowhere, and we saw it sitting a few metres away wearing a cheeky grin as it unwrapped its stolen treasure. They didn’t get their hands on our eggs though, which were hard boiled in volcanic steam pouring out of an opening between the rocks. Had they been successful, they would have tasted a unique flavour with a hint of charcoal smokiness. Our last stop on the mountain was in a cave, formed in the eruption of 1849 as lava flowed through and formed a channel. The Balinese consider it a holy spot. Inside the cave you can see the charcoal remains of lava sparks, and bats hanging from the ceiling.

Solid hiking shoes:

They will save you once you get to the difficult part of the track with lots of loose and slippery rocks. You won’t have to worry every step of the way and will be able to enjoy the hike, knowing you won’t fall and injure yourself.

Water: While it may not be the hardest hike, you’ll be trekking for about four hours so make sure you stay hydrated.

RECOMMENDED: POST SUNRISE SANGRIA On the way down we took a different route, longer, but not as steep. Along the way there were a few spots with views into the valley, the lake and the fields covered in black lava – quite an interesting sight. The walk back took about two hours and at the end our legs were fairly numb. Luckily, our driver knew just the cure. Being a volcano crater, the area is also known for its natural hot springs, full of good minerals to help ease sore muscles. We arrived at the springs, and said goodbye to the untouched beauty of our previous surroundings. This was very much a man made facility, with a large pool overlooking the lake, fountains and a bar right beside it. It was only 10am, but we had been awake for eight hours – and we felt this called for passionfruit mojitos and sangrias. Hiking Mt Batur is a must-do, and while challenging at times, with the right gear it’s really not that hard. The view is breathtaking, and the fact you’ve climbed an active volcano gives you bragging rights for a few months. While you might not feel your calf muscles for a few hours, the hot springs and celebratory sangrias definitely ease the pain.

Windproof jacket:

Bali is not normally the place for several layers of clothing, but you’ll be glad you have something to stop that chilly night breeze. Plus, you’ll be 1700m above sea level so the temperature will be cooler.

Comfortable pants:

There will be a few spots along the track where you will have to lift your legs up quite high and pull yourself up, so wear gear that will allow you to do Who so. needs a luxury cabin when you can pitch a tent?

The intense blues of the lake and the lush greens of Mt Batur's vegetation make for a colourful hike

Camera: You can’t leave

the top of the mountain without the ‘been there, done that’ photo to show your friends and family. If you’re lucky enough to be climbing Mt Batur on a clear night, the sky is amazing. Set your camera on long exposure, put it on a tripod and enjoy your very own personal photos of the Milky Way. If you’re going to do that, obviously allow more time.

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Hiking Mt Batur is a must-do, and while challenging at times, with the right gear it,s really not that hard

Mother Nature's light show the sun makes its way up

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Travel Road trips

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Nowhere to go but

everywhere When the grind of 9 to 5 gets you down, shake off daily life,s shackles and drive off into the sunset on the ultimate road trip. WORDS Natalie Cavallaro

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Travel Road trips

Pick your road trip buddies wisely – and leave any Nickleback fans in your dust at the servo

The open

road

I

t’s responsible for countless contributions to literature, film, and music, with everyone from Jack Kerouac, The Blues Brothers, and the cast of Priscilla, Queen of the Desert inspired by its seductive sense of freedom. Most of us have felt like throwing it all in at some point, and jumping behind the wheel for a life-changing road trip. Before you burn rubber though, check out our tips to make the most of your journey. TAKE A BLOWTORCH TO YOUR GPS Ok, maybe don’t go that far. That could land you in a bit of trouble should you get lost, not to mention be a huge waste of money. But ditching the sat-nav for spontaneity is where it’s at. Sure, you’ve got a destination in mind (or not – in which case, I tip my hat to you, you free-wheeling wonder!), but you don’t need to be so rigid you miss out on a whole swag of unplanned sights and experiences along the way. Forget ‘making good time’. Make a few pit stops instead. Stop off at small towns, and have a yarn to the locals at the pub, or chat to Sheila at the milk bar. Who knows, she might be able to tell you where the most pristine swimming spot is. Relax your expectations and be open to new discoveries. And don’t forget to thank Sheila for the tip.

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GO YOUR OWN WAY

When the bitumen beckons, where should you go? When it comes to road trips, Aussies are spoilt for choice. This list is by no means exhaustive, but should provide a little inspiration.

There's no end to the journeys you can take, just check out a map and select your path

NT: Central Arnhem Highway The word adventure barely scratches the surface when describing the journey from Katherine to Nhulumbuy. Over more than 700km you’ll encounter dirt, bog, buffalo, horses, donkeys, snakes, waterways, and multi-coloured scenery. This route travels through sacred indigenous land, and you will need a permit from the Northern Land Council. It’s remote country, so remember your jerry cans. WA: Gibb River Road One of the country’s most iconic 4WD journeys stretches out over more than 600km between Derby and El Questro Wilderness Park. Stop in at Windjana Gorge, Mitchell Plateau, Bell Gorge and Home Valley Station. There’s a reasonable distance between service stations, but bring extra fuel supplies if you plan on detouring. QLD: Cairns to Cape York An absolute must-do, this journey of more than a thousand kilometres is packed with lush wetlands scenery, rugged outback landscapes, and plenty of colourful characters to meet along the way. Hit the road and you’ll see why Cape York is often referred to as Australia’s ‘last frontier’. VIC: The Great Alpine Road If you’re mountain mad, Victoria’s High Country has you covered for peaks and valleys. Start in Wangaratta and head up through Beechworth for a taste of bushranger history and on to Dinner Plain. Finish up in Metung in Gippsland, after stopping at Mount Hotham and Mount Kosciuszko Lookout. SA: Explorers Way A true pioneering route, this journey stretches 3000km from Adelaide to Darwin. If you don’t fancy taking the journey on in full and crossing the border, there’s still plenty to discover within South Australia. Get your intake of fruit during a stop in the Clare Valley wine region, then head into the Flinders Ranges and the outback. NSW: Grand Pacific Drive To feel that ocean breeze in your hair, head out on this classic trip that starts in the Royal National Park, less than an hour south of Sydney’s CBD. This scenic 140km coastal route will take you through Wollongong, Shellharbour, Kiama, and Shoalhaven. Heading back, go through the Southern Highlands or head to Victoria along the Sapphire Coast. TAS: North West Trail There’s no doubting the pristine nature of Tasmania, and this trips takes you through 200km of coastal scenery into its wilderness heartland. Travel from Narawnatapu National Park just east of Devonport to Burnie. Keep an eye out for wallabies, wombats, and pademelons. Don’t forget to stop in at the town of Penguin, and get a photo with its ‘big’ namesake.

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Travel Road trips

CHOOSE A CHARIOT You’ve picked your path, now how to get there? There’s countless vehicle options whether you’re travelling solo, as a couple, or bringing the whole family along. The classic: Holden Commodore While the great Holden Commodore may not be the preferred choice of car these days, when it comes to a budget road trip option, you can’t go wrong. It’s got plenty of room in the cabin, is rugged enough for long trips, and it’s affordable to fix should anything go wrong. Pack a tent and you’re on your way. The rugged tourer: 4WD If you’re heading onto rough roads and need a bit more grunt, then it’s worthwhile investing in a 4WD vehicle that can take you where you need to go. The last thing you want when you head to remote areas, is your freedom to be compromised because of your vehicle’s capabilities, or lack thereof.

DON’T BE A HERO, BE A SCOUT In other words, be prepared. You want to be spontaneous when it counts – making new discoveries and friends – as opposed to driving into the outback for weeks on end without even a basic kit. Consider where you are going, and how long you’ll be on the road. During a six hour trip you’ll probably be able to get whatever you need in service stations along the way, but make sure you plan before you head to more remote areas. A first-aid kit is essential, as well as adequate water supplies. Don’t forget chargers and adapters, as well as material to light a fire.

The 4WD upsize: Camper trailer If a 4WD on it’s own just won’t cut it, add a camper trailer to step up your travel comfort. There are campers to suit all budgets, and brands that have serious offroad credentials. With a relatively light towing weight, camper trailers are good if you want to keep the load down and reduce fuel consumption.

FIRES WIN FRIENDS I’m not suggesting that you run out and set fire to something, but it’s a scientific fact that people who can light a great campfire are at least 40 per cent more popular with their travelling companions than those who can’t*. A campfire is great for warmth and comfort, cooking food, and keeping you busy when the conversation starts to get dull. If you’re camping on your road trip, fire is a must. Clear a space around the fire area, dig a pit or trench about 30cm to stop embers flying out, and when searching for firewood remember, the drier it is, the better it will burn. When using rocks to create a border around your fire, steer clear of river rocks. The moisture inside will steam and build up pressure, causing them to explode. And don’t be a jerk. Make sure campfires are permitted in the area you plan to light one, and observe fire danger warnings. *Not a scientific fact

The live-in legend: Campervan Whether you buy your own basic campervan and modify it yourself, or you hire one of the many ‘backpacker’ campervans available these days, this is a compact and comfortable way to travel and live at the same time. Convertible lounge to bed area? Basic kitchen? You’ve got all you need. The holiday hitch up: Caravan It’s a heavier load than a camper trailer, and you’ll have to consider the grunt of your towing vehicle, but a caravan has the comforts of home. It’s also a great option if you plan on heading out on day trips from your campsite as you can lock up the van and leave it. The home on wheels: Motorhome Of course, if you can’t bear to go without all the bells and whistles (and aren’t keen on towing), a motorhome is the way to go. The downside is if you forget the bread and milk, you’ve got to pack everything up to hit the shops. However, this is solved by packing fold-up bikes or towing a small car.

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Choose your vehicle, stock up on supplies, and hit the open road

You want to be spontaneous when it counts - making new discoveries and friends

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Travel Road trips

KICK NICKELBACK FANS TO THE KERB A bit harsh? Perhaps, but you can’t underestimate the importance of a great road trip playlist. I remember an excruciating car trip with my cousin and her friend, who obviously didn’t share my theory. They played a Hootie and the Blowfish cassette – this is going back a few years – that only had two songs on it, on repeat for the whole trip. Let that sink in. Hootie and the Blowfish, on repeat, for eight hours. I now know all the words to Let Her Cry, and believe me, that’s what I did out of sheer relief when that car trip was over. Think about how long you’ll be in the car, and make sure the playlist is varied. You want a good mix of high energy tunes to boost morale, as well as low-key background music to accompany those deep conversations that will inevitably happen. See our playlist suggestions (right).

TUNES TO SET THE MOOD One thing guaranteed to unite or divide a carload of road trippers is the playlist. Here’s an eclectic mix to inspire yours.

ROAD TRIP GAMES SAVE LIVES Don’t scoff, when the road ahead is dragging and you’re dying for a break, road trip games are what will save your sanity, and the more inane the better. One of my best friends is a muso, and has spent more than her fair share of time on the road in the tour van. She taught me this game, which has become a staple for me when toothpicks are holding my eyelids open. It’s simple to play, and is light on rules. Just drive along and when you see roadkill, yell out, “there’s one!”. It’s called, um, There’s One. Of course, there’s plenty of road trip game apps, or make up your own trivia games, ideal for a car full of know-it-alls.

Autobahn Bohemian Rhapsody Born to Run Crazy in Love Flame Trees Folsom Prison Blues From St Kilda to Kings Cross Gin and Juice Go With the Flow Go Your Own Way Graceland Guerilla Radio Have Love, Will Travel Heroes Home Highway to Hell Keep the Car Running Low Rider Love Shack Road Trippin’ Riders on the Storm Runnin’ Down a Dream Surfin’ USA The Only Place Tiny Dancer Whole Lotta Love Wide Open Road Wide Open Spaces You Could Be Mine

There’s no fuel in Purnululu National Park, so if you plan on exploring for a few days a spare jerry of diesel doesn’t hurt.

Kraftwerk Queen Bruce Springsteen Beyonce Cold Chisel Johnny Cash Paul Kelly Snoop Dogg Queens of the Stone Age Fleetwood Mac Paul Simon Rage Against the Machine The Sonics David Bowie Edward Sharpe and the Magnetic Zeros AC/DC Arcade Fire War B52s Red Hot Chilli Peppers The Doors Tom Petty Beach Boys Best Coast Elton John Led Zeppelin The Triffids Dixie Chicks Guns n Roses

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last shot SOUTH MISSION BEACH, QLD

The repetition of paddle stroke after paddle stroke soothes the soul. Hermit crabs scurry at the water's edge dodging the sharp claws of wandering cassowaries who stray from the undergrowth, whilst brilliant blue Ulysses butterflies flutter in the shade of the lowland rainforest. Dolphins cruise the deeper channels in search of the schools of mackerel, whilst shallow beds of sea grass offer a home to the real life mermaids of the sea, the dugong. In the gentle sheltered inlets, green sea turtles cruise without a worry, and only moments after this photo was taken, a two metre plus giant Queensland groper greeted us. In the distance, Dunk and Bedarra Islands stand silhouetted against the rising sun named as ‘The Father Isle’ and “The Mother Isle” by early European explorers, but previously referred to as Coonanglebah, "the island of peace and plenty” and Biagurra by the Bandjin and Djiru people. There is no doubt this lush stretch of coastline still reflects a ‘peace and plenty’ aura of so many centuries ago. WORDS AND PIC: Mark Watson

*Cond DEPO

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APT606


BEST DOMESTIC TOUR OPERATOR

2012-2016

BEST INTERNATIONAL TOUR OPERATOR

2014-2015

BEST RIVER CRUISE OPERATOR

2015-2017

Come hiking through a land that time forgot

Kimberley Active 13 days from $7,995* pp twin share Companion Fly Free*

GU

MAX.

20

GU

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Emma Gorge Wyndham Home Valley 2 1 Kununurra 1 Lake Argyle Galvans Gorge El Questro NT Bell Gorge Echidna Chasm Wilderness Lodge Wilinggin King 2 Leopold Bungle Bungle Range ver R 3 Ri National Park Wilderness b Gi b Derby Lodge Windjana Gorge Purnululu Tunnel Creek National Park 2 Dimalurru Cathedral Gorge Tunnel Creek BROOME Piccaninny Creek d

Your hiking and 4WD adventure with APT includes: • Hiking in 17 locations covering up to 60km of remote trails • All accommodation, including 5 nights at APT’s exclusive network of unmatched Kimberley Wilderness Lodges • Small group travel with a maximum of 20 guests • Expert Driver-Guide and additional guides on selected hikes • Travel in a custom-designed 4WD vehicle • All meals, sightseeing, national park fees and airport transfers

ANTE AR

ED

Quench your thirst for adventure with a challenging small group hiking and 4WD journey with APT. Offering a true challenge on some of the most remote and rugged hiking trails that Australia has to offer, APT’s Kimberley Active tour is not for the faint of heart.

WA

National Park

Fitzroy Crossing

1 Halls Creek

Mimbi Caves

GKAC13

Visit kimberleywilderness.com.au/Active or call 1300 391 620 or see your local travel agent *Conditions apply. SEE: kimberleywilderness.com.au/Specials for full conditions. Prices are per person (pp), AUD, twin share. Prices are correct as at 24 August 2017. Price based on GKAC13: May and August departure. ALL OFFERS: Limited seats and offers on set departures are available and are subject to availability. DEPOSITS: A non-refundable deposit of $2,000 pp is due within 7 days of booking. Australian Pacific Touring Pty Ltd. ATAS accreditation #A10825. APT6064

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