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SECRET TASSIE Discover

secluded patches of paradise beyond the tourist trail

S

E L P AM

!

G MA

Adventure East coast Tasmania

Escape to the

east coast The secret about Tasmania,s beauty may be out, but those who trek beyond the tourist trail are sure to be rewarded with secluded patches of paradise.

WORDS AND PICS Mitch Cox

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Adventure East coast Tasmania

Hiking Tasmania , s

pristine

east coast

W

e hiked up the fi nal trail to the Neck, and braced ourselves for the gale force winds we’d been warned about, but there was nothing. Not even the faintest breeze. The ocean hundreds of metres below was motionless, its surface like smooth glass.

Surrounding us, the rugged cliffs glowed in the warm afternoon light. We had made it to the peak, and it was even better than we had hoped.

Hiking Tasmania’s pristine east coast is as varied as it is beautiful. Its south is full of isolated trails winding along desolate, windswept cliffs, whilst in the north, it can almost feel as though you’ve stepped into a tropical oasis, with pure white sands and crystal clear waters. My girlfriend Cleo and I began our exploration of this unique area set on exploring as many locations by foot as possible. What we discovered was that the untouched beauty Tasmania has on offer is mind blowing.

Our travels began a few years ago as a two week road trip to escape the winter chill and experience Australia on our own terms, but that trip quickly gave us a yearning for more adventure. Before we knew it, we were on the road for more than four months, skipping the dull Sydney winter. The following year, our travels were extended to seven months, and we quickly saw a pattern develop.

We’d been on the road for more than five months by the time we landed in Tasmania, weary yet relieved after the ferry crossing. The previous months had been spent exploring every corner of Australia from the tropical north to the arid south, and we’d hiked our way through all sorts of terrains and conditions. Tassie and its quiet perfection had slowly drawn us south for weeks. There was something about it that just seemed to gel with our style. Perhaps it was the isolation, or the laid-back feeling that seemed to radiate from each town.

Whatever it was, by the time we arrived on the east coast we instantly felt at home.

Mount Amos Wineglass Bay

THE FALSE START As we lazily made our way down the east coast, we began to discover the variety of hikes on offer. Our fi rst favourite was breathtaking Wineglass Bay on the Freycinet Peninsula. Th is is an extremely popular area, one of the most visited in the state.

However, few really have a chance to take in all of its beauty, with most tourists stopping for a quick look over the picturesque bay before making their way inland. We decided to pack our bags for a slightly more physically demanding version. Our plan was to hike to the peak of Mount Amos for sunrise, for the best view of the bay. The hike itself is not particularly far – 2.5km return – however scaling the slippery and steep slopes makes it more difficult than it looks on paper.

After waking up at 3am, with our bags packed and head torches on full, we began the trek up to the peak. I noticed right away the lack of stars, which is rare in Tasmania’s extremely clear skies. Soon after we began the ascent, a fi ne mist of rain formed. As we climbed the increasingly slippery slopes, the mist turned into a steady drizzle, and the granite slope soon became near impossible to climb. After a series of slips and near misses, we made the tough decision to abandon the climb and return to the comfort of our van.

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The Neck is a bloody good spot for snack time

What we discovered was that the untouched beauty Tasmania has on offer is mind blowing

Living the van life at Bay of Fires

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Adventure East coast Tasmania

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As we climbed the increasingly slippery slopes, the mist turned into a steady drizzle, and the granite slope soon became near impossible to climb

On top of the world – capturing the fleeting sunrise atop Mount Amos

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Adventure East coast Tasmania

The only sounds were the gentle lapping of water on the powdery white shore, and the calls of birds in the green forest right behind us SUCCESS AND A FLEETING SUNRISE A bit disheartened but not discouraged, we planned the same trip for the next morning, hoping the rain would have passed.

We woke in the predawn hours to that same fi ne mist that had threatened us the day before. We pushed on, and the rain lessened, which allowed us to painstakingly climb the smooth slopes, weighed down with camera gear and hiking supplies.

As we approached the summit, we were fi nally able to put our head torches away, and use the dim light to fi nd the perfect location to watch the sunrise. Although the rain had stopped, the clouds were still thick on the horizon, and my hopes of witnessing a cracker sunrise were diminishing by the minute.

Just as Cleo scaled a perfectly balanced boulder, a purple glow started to appear in the clouds. With the icy wind whipping at my jacket, I fi red off a few quick shots before the flat grey light returned. We quickly sought out some shelter from the increasing wind in a small cave, and managed to warm up with some hot tea.

As we reached the bottom of Mount Amos, we grabbed our overnight packs which we had stashed near the trailhead, and continued to the next stage of our adventure. Our destination was a little known camping spot right on the beach at

Wineglass Bay, which to our surprise was completely free. As the sun climbed higher in the sky and the temperature rose, we made our way past the lines of tourists slowly ascending to the lookout. Once we passed the main lookout, the track immediately became less developed, with no defi ned steps or handrails in sight. When we fi nally reached the famed Wineglass Bay, the cool ocean breeze and the perfect white sand transported us to another world. With our boots packed away, the rest of the hike was completely barefoot on the smooth sand. What seemed like bliss at fi rst soon became arduous, with the soft sand and heavy packs creating a strenuous hike to the far end of the beach, which seemed as though it wasn’t getting any closer. As the sun reached its peak and we had passed all but the most determined of explorers, we fi nally arrived at the end of the beach. We immediately dropped our packs and looked around in wonder. If we thought the start of the beach was perfect, then this was out of this world. The small bay had created an area with water so still and clear, it looked as though it was part of one giant swimming pool. The only sounds were the gentle lapping of water on the powdery white shore, and the calls of birds in the green forest right behind us.

With views like these, you'd be forgiven for thinking you were in the tropics

There’s no fuel in Purnululu National Park, so if you plan on exploring for a few days a spare jerry of diesel doesn’t hurt.

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TREKKING TASSIE: THE ESSENTIALS Water: Tasmania’s pristine mountain ranges provide clean, safe water sources towards the centre of the island, but finding water along the coast can be more difficult. There are fewer freshwater streams, and most of the available water is stagnant and not suitable for drinking. This unfortunately means you have to carry all the water you need for drinking, cooking and cleaning. Pack it correctly, and use it sparingly for cleaning.

Jackets: Having a good outer shell jacket is a must for any hike in Tasmania.

Although we were blessed with some perfect weather, it can change at a moment’s notice, and freezing winds and icy rain are always around the corner. A Gortex jacket is your best bet, as they cut out the wind and rain, and stash down to a small size. Keep one in your pack for emergencies, and you’ll have one less thing to worry about when the weather turns on you.

Pack smart: On longer, multi-day hikes, a heavier pack is a reality. However,

correctly packing your bag is going to make things easier, no mater how much weight you have. First up, pack your lighter items towards the bottom of the bag - this might seem counter intuitive, but your upper back is the strongest, and hence heavy items should be towards the top. Sleeping bags, pillows, jumpers and jackets, should be stashed towards the bottom. Next up is your heavier items – tents, extra water, and cooking supplies. Try and pack these items as close to your back as possible. Stuff lighter items behind them to force them right up to the back of your pack. Finally, food, first-aid kits and emergency items should go towards the top. They are easy to access, and you won’t have to repack your whole bag whenever you want a muesli bar.

Cooking with gas: There are hundreds of different types of hiking stoves out there. Most use disposable butane cartridges, but there are also wood fuel, propane, and spirit burners out there. The thing I hate about butane stoves, is that whenever you finish that cartridge, it goes straight into landfill. Whilst not the most hiking friendly stove, I use a Coleman Dual Fuel, which can run off regular petrol. It’s refillable, reliable, and if you plan on hiking to higher altitudes, it will work just fine. It might be a bit heavier, but it works every time and has never let me down.

Polariser: One bit of camera gear I think is absolutely essential, especially when

shooting glory oceans or vibrant rainforests, is a circular polarising filter. These screw onto the end of almost any lens, and are designed to cut out reflection. Basically, it makes colours more vibrant and cuts out unwanted reflections to reveal the true clarity of colours. As usual, you get what you pay for in terms of quality, but as long as you pick something within your budget, a CPL will be an extremely useful (and lightweight) addition to your kit.

Tripod: If you plan on capturing some quality images on your hike, a tripod is worth

considering. Although it does add more weight to your pack and can be a pain to strap down to the outside, they can really increase the quality of your images. Waterfalls, low light images and even the good old selfie benefit hugely from a quality tripod. I’d recommend a carbon fibre model. Not only are they considerably lighter than steel or aluminium, they also transmit less vibrations, for an even smoother shoot.

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Adventure East coast Tasmania

As the afternoon slowly drifted away, and the sun made its way towards the horizon, it really felt like paradise

Relief at the end of a strenuous barefoot hike on soft sand

Tasmania delivers postcard perfect moments everyday, like this one atop Mt Wellington

PICKING THE PERFECT MOMENT As the afternoon slowly drifted away, and the sun made its way towards the horizon, it really felt like paradise. What little wind there was dropped off completely, and due to the curve of the bay, the sun set directly over the water in front of us. We had the whole beach to ourselves as we lay and watched the stars slowly appear. Even on one of the most famous beaches in the world, this proved that with a little perseverance, you can have a slice of it all to yourself.

The next day we headed further south, along roads that wound along the coast, with bright blue water on one side, and rolling green farmland on the other. Everywhere I looked, there were trails and mountains just waiting to be explored, and perhaps if we had years rather than weeks we could have. We took a few days to relax, and then we were ready for the hike we had been planning for months. The Th ree Capes is a relatively new walk, but it has already been called one of the best in Australia. It takes hikers to three of the most wild and scenic capes in Tasmania, and the views are unmatched. What we weren’t so excited for, was the price tag that also came as part of the amazing hike, with luxury cabins and endless boardwalks not holding as much appeal for us as camping in the rough. We researched alternatives, and soon it became clear that it was possible to do this hike without the costs of cabins, although it required a bit more planning and a lot more gear. Fortunately, we had all the time in the world, and more than enough gear. We watched the weather for days, waiting for the perfect window. Th is region of Tassie is known to have some of the wildest weather, and is often said to be the windiest part of the island. We even heard reports of hikers behind unable to stand up with winds so strong. Since we had no cabins to fall back on, the weather was going to be a crucial factor. When what looked like the perfect few days fi nally appeared on the weather report, we knew it was time.

Meeting the disinterested but tolerant locals

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A coffee break overlooking Tasman Island, along the Three Capes Track

The changing colours over The Neck

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Adventure East coast Tasmania

As we finally approached the main destination of the hike, the point we had been dreaming about for so long, I could see what all the fuss was about

LUXURY CABIN NOT REQUIRED Our plan was to walk the entire first section on the first day, and make a beeline straight to the Cape. As we meandered through the dry scrub, I was amazed at the lack of other hikers – we appeared to have the whole track to ourselves. After a few hours of solitude, our narrow dirt track met up with the Three Capes Track. Immediately the difference was clear. The dirt and rocks made way for endless boardwalks, with handrails and seats dotted along the near perfect path. We began to feel more like we were hiking through a museum rather than making our way through the Tasmanian wilderness. Along with the fancy new trail came a marked increase in other hikers, all with day bags and runners. We spent the next portion of the day following the seemingly endless boardwalk, past the luxury cabins complete with deck chairs and hammocks outside. When we finally stepped off the last section of boardwalk, it felt like we were back in the wild, and we continued the final section with a renewed sense of wonder. This part of the trail wound its way along the sea cliffs that the trail is known for. Sheer cliffs were the only barrier between the path and the sea, hundreds of metres below.

This section of the path is also known to experience wild weather, with icy winds often howling unrestricted from the southern ocean, directly into hikers on the trail. However, it seemed that our planning had paid off. The lack of wind, and the cloudless blue sky above seemed to good to be true.

As we fi nally approached the main destination of the hike, the point we had been dreaming about for so long, I could see what all the fuss was about. The Neck is a narrow section of

Who needs a luxury cabin when you can pitch a tent?

rock, which sits well above the surrounding cliffs. The narrow, winding track that makes it way to the top has sheer cliffs on both sides. The fi nal ascent was hot and slow in the afternoon sun, the lack of shade and heavy packs making the climb harder than it looked. Upon reaching the fi nal tip, the very point of the Neck, it was clear the long hike and the days of planning were worth it. We picked out the rocks with the best view, and as the other hikers headed back to their cabins for the night, we had the whole place to ourselves. The sun was slowly making its way down over the distant mountains, the wide expanse of silky smooth ocean began glowing a dazzling orange. The lack of wind or movement made the whole scenario seem more like a still image than real life. We prepared dinner overlooking the view, waiting for the clouds to change and the sunset to really put on a show. Putting the camera on my trusty tripod that I had lugged all this way, I sat in awe as the cliffs exploded with colour and the endless layers of rock disappeared into the distance.

The next morning, I returned to the Neck for sunrise, armed with a beanie, gloves and my snug Gortex jacket to ward away the icy Tasmanian chill. Again however, that cold and icy wind was non-existent. As I snapped away at one of the most amazing sunrises I’d ever witnessed, with no sound except the distant seal colony, and no human around for miles – it hit me just how incredible Tasmania is. From pristine beaches of pure white sand to untouched rainforests with abundant waterfalls, and to what I was staring at, a scene almost too perfect to be real, it was clear Tasmania was an incredibly special place.

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Adventure The Kimberley

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An exploration

TRIFECTA Inspired by an Aussie TV legend, Jack Murphy heads off to explore the remote and rugged Top End in an epic adventure by land, sea and air.

WORDS AND PICS Jack Murphy

PAGE 50

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T

he north-western tip of Australia is remote, wild and beautiful. Well, that’s what Malcolm Douglas had me believing after watching his many videos. He traversed the Kimberley with his dog Boondie, a cameraman and his trusty alloy boat. The legend of the Kimberley was imprinted on me – I had to do it. My fair-haired partner Millie and I headed west to the land of red dust, towering cliffs and fat barra...

Before you get the chance to pull out the camera to snap a gobsmacking gorge, there are long drives along corrugated roads to navigate. In the wet season, there’s a good chance the main route has washed out or a

PAGE 64

causeway has collapsed after torrential rain. In Kununurra – the gateway to the Kimberley – the average annual rainfall is 790mm. This year, as we were packing our finest Gold Bombers (barramundi lures) into dry weatherproof packs, it pelted down a sock-sodden 1072mm. It was the wettest season since the 1960s! On the upside, waterfalls would be flowing and the gorges swollen. On the downside, it’d be a slog all the way. So we hatched a cunning plan to avoid all those soggy socks and trousers. It involved a highly capable 4x4, a plane that floats, a chopper and a luxury live-aboard boat – just to be on the safe side.

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Adventure The Kimberley

C

ANNON FIRE It’s 4am at Darwin Airport. Inside a dimly lit hangar at a corner of the runway is a Grumman G-73 Mallard amphibious aircraft. It might be named after a duck, but this twin-prop aircraft with its massive 20m wingspan and classic 1940s lines is a flying boat. Most days it transports workers to the Paspaley pearl farms, but today it will be freighting us to the west coast of the Northern Territory to rendezvous with our mothership. I try to help by sucking in my gut as they weigh all our gear, then we’re up and away.

Millie had barely fired off a selfie before we were soaring across the coastal fringes west of Darwin, spotting crocs in the rapidly flowing river systems. I picture big barra lying just below the surface in the eddies swirling around the mangrove-lined banks. Less than an hour later, the Grumman loses altitude, tips a wing and circles the MV Cannon like, well, a mallard coming in to nest for the night. This is the mothership, a 75ft custombuilt live-aboard – our home for the next week.

The pilot lines up a clean strip of water before lowering the belly of the behemoth on to the tannin stained river, the bow wave soaking the rear windows. Landing on water is a strange sensation, louder but smoother than a runway. I’d be lying if I said I didn’t have sweaty palm thoughts of US Airways Flight 1549 on the Hudson River at that moment. We motor towards the Cannon and two tenders come out to meet us. The pilot shuts down the engines and cracks open the rear exit and a wave of warm, humid air hits us in the face as a sunburnt head pops inside and says, “G’day guys, welcome to paradise!”

“G-73 Mallard you are clear to land on our starboard side.”

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The Grumman G-73 Mallard touches down in tropical paradise Millie spots crocs while ying over the coastal fringes west of Darwin

The pilot lines up a clean strip of water before lowering the belly of the behemoth onto the tannin-stained river

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Adventure The Kimberley

The Cannon is a 75ft mothership custom built

by West Coaster Marine and launched in 2003.

She’s skippered by Ben Sambrooks, a Top End pirate of repute. He’s a young fella with a scruffy beard, but don’t let his appearance fool you. This charter operation is one of the smoothest on Australian waters.

FISHING VALHALLA Ah, if Malcolm could see me now. Back in the day, he slept in a dusty old swag and cooked fish on an open campfire. We’re being treated to five-star dinners, three times a day and an air-conditioned bedroom – plus Aiden, our personal guide in standard NT garb of tan Columbia shirt, boardies and polarised sunnies. All up, the boat accommodates eight paying guests, six staff and a BCF store worth of tackle. Aiden has the unenviable task of teaching Millie how to cast. We jump into the tinny, fasten our sunnies, reverse hats and snake up the river at full speed, soaring past mangroves that are choking trees into submission. Around every bend is a double-page spread out of National Geographic: saltwater crocs lurking, sea eagles soaring and jabirus wading peacefully before being startled by the thrum of our aluminum hull.

Bursting through the forest canopy onto the floodplain, dense greenery gives way to grassy flatlands punctuated with tributaries feeding the main body of water. The water is clear and we snag a few small ones, Aiden sensing my relief at notching a barra on my belt. We double back to the river mouth for a shot at the elusive metre-long fish. We work the edges of the sandbank near the entrance where medium-sized barra and bluenose salmon fight for attention among the squadrons of salty crocs. Without a canopy, we feel the full fury of the blazing sun. One big saltwater croc joins the frenzy, dragging a 5kg threadfin salmon to the muddy bank and chomping down like it was a chicken nugget.

When Aiden calls prime time for casting lures into the river’s shaded feeder creeks, Millie, her white skin now a shade of pink, agrees. It looks like barra heaven – a mess of snags where a small tributary feeds black, nutrient-rich runoff into the main channel, creating a back-eddy like a cup of freshly stirred Milo.

The barra are hungry and we both hook 70cm fish at the same time. Millie forgets about her sunburn for a while as we highfive. Egos and eskies filled to the brim, we return to the mothership, where our fellow cruisers are regaling each other with fishy stories. We’re greeted by a vast platter of mud crabs – which proves to be just the entrée…

Smaller barra came thick and fast

Little reef sharks enjoyed searching for scraps

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TOP FIVE BARRA TIPS

Metre Mike with a mud crab destined for the dinner table

1

Barra are very lazy, but more intelligent than you’d think. Look for snaggy, slow-moving water sitting alongside fast-moving water. Barra love these areas, conserving energy in the slow water then ambushing prey as they scurry past.

2 METRE MIKE The following days are a blur of beautiful scenery and barramundi scales – each session better than the last. The sea is a glass-off, so we hit the offshore reefs in tinnies. Fat fingermark and juicy jewfish are destined for the dinner table, but the conversation turns to metre-long barra. Nobody has snagged one yet. Not until fishing guide Metre Mike rocks up. Mike’s from Sydney’s Northern Beaches, but spends seven months a year guiding on the Cannon. The next morning with Mike starts like most other days, casting lures into snags and feeder creeks.

Spying a good-looking spot he’d never fished before, we approach silently to see a barra tailing around the cluster of algae-covered logs. I cast into the honey hole and it’s immediately snuffled by a nice fish. Within a few moments, the line is peeling off at right angles. A huge swirl on the surface exposes the thick shoulders and massive paddle tail of a metre barra. An epic battle ensues, a 10-minute tug-o’-war, the fish running the line over countless submerged branches. We finally get the 110cm beast into the net and onto the boat before being released after a quick photo. This was my first metre barra, and the only one landed on the trip. Belt notched.

When fishing the run-off (end of the wet season), locate yourself near the colour changes.

The tannin-coloured water that comes off the flood plains is full of nutrients and attracts the bait.

This is like Bourke Street for big barra.

3 4 5

Keep your eyes peeled for crocodiles. They’re hunting barramundi too. Multiple crocs congregating around sandspits or edges are a sure sign of barra en masse.

Barra are often the first predators to come in with the tide, so fish the first flow of the run-in tide and last flow of the outgoing tide.

You can never retrieve a barra lure too slowly.

If the lure is in the zone, a subtle twitch is usually all it takes to encourage a bite.

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Adventure The Kimberley

Millie bags her ďŹ rst barra!

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TROUBLE IN PARADISE The epic Cannon adventure is almost over and it’s time to head home. We’re 100km west of Darwin when Captain Ben Sambrooks turns the ignition key to fire up the big 820HP M.T.U diesel engine… and nothing happens. The starter motor has packed it in so we call in air support. A chopper will have to fly the broken parts into town for repairs and the skipper decides this is a good opportunity to ferry a few passengers back to Darwin. I opt to stay on the boat – might as well keep fishing, eh?

However, Millie jumps at the opportunity of a heli-ride home and in no time is back in a springy hotel bed in Darwin, watching The Bold and the Beautiful and eating Nacho Cheese Doritos.

WHADDA TRIP It’s been an epic adventure – bookended with a grand seaplane entrance and evacuation by chopper a week later. The Cannon makes it home late the next night and the crew calls for a celebration. It’s customary that every charter ends with a drink called Captain’s Blood. It’s a mixture of Captain Morgan, soda water and bitters that sounds nice, but actually tastes like brake fluid. I pretend to enjoy it as the crew become more animated, the barra grow a few centimetres and the back slaps get harder.

The following days are a blur of beautiful scenery and barramundi scales - each session better than the last

CANNON CHARTERS 0417 457 135; cannoncharters.com.au Email: bec@cannoncharters.com.au 3 Graham Road, Quinns Rocks, WA 6030

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Adventure The Kimberley

THE

Kimberley essentials All the gear we couldn,t have gone without.

SEA TO SUMMIT BIG RIVER DRY BAGS

Dry bags are invaluable when touring around such volatile weather climates. One minute it’s sunny, the next it’s bucketing. The Sea to Summit Big River Dry Bags weigh virtually nothing, pack down flat and saved the expensive camera equipment on several occasions.

JETBOIL FLASH

FIRST AID AND RECOVERY KIT

Being able to boil water in just over two minutes is a serious time saver when it comes to coffee, tea, soups, spaghetti and even veggies. The Jetboil Flash is also small, light and has a push-button igniter.

Safety is the number one priority when remote touring. Also being able to self-recover your vehicle is vital. A good first aid and recovery kit should always be carried.

LED LENSER I7R

TEVA SANDLES

Having a range of torches and headlamps at your disposal is a must. The MVP of our Kimberley trip was the LEDLENSER i7R. This little baby has a charging dock for the car, an advanced focus system to spread or narrow the beam and a robust metal housing. Not to mention, it’s also water resistant (IPX4).

Hiking boots are great and all, but when the sweat starts dripping through your socks before you’ve even tied the laces something has got to give. For most of our hikes and underwater missions, we opted for Teva sandles, which offer awesome support and keep your feet as cool as cucumbers.

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HEMA MAPS AND/OR HX-1 NAVIGATOR

EPIRB

Google Maps will tell you it takes almost seven hours to drive between Broome and Cape Leveque – um no, it only takes two and a half. Get yourself a set of Hema maps and/or a Hema HX1 Navigator, which has on and offroad navigation.

An EPIRB (Emergency Position Indicating Radio Beacon) is for when the shit really hits the fan. Boat capsized in shark-infested water, bitten by a brown snake or just horribly lost – these are the times an EPIRB will save your life. Set it off and the cavalry will be heading to your exact location.

A GOOD 4X4

ENGEL MR40F

A good fridge goes hand-in-hand with a good 4x4.

Unless you plan on eating nothing but 2 Minute Noodles for your entire trip across the Gibb, you’re going to need a portable fridge/freezer. Engel’s MR40F has a 38L capacity and low current draw.

KLEAN KANTEEN

Having an insulated drink bottle is a creature comfort I just couldn’t do without after exploring the Kimberley. They may weigh down your pack a little, but it’s totally worth it for an icy drink after an all day hike. A 592ml Klean Kanteen can keep its contents cold for 50 hours or hot for 20 hours.

The Kimberley is no place for an old Pajero with 500,000km on the clock. We opted for a 2.8L turbo diesel Toyota Hilux with all the bells and whistles, including a TJM awning and rooftop tent, camping chairs, table, stove and jerry cans. Don’t forget the upgraded suspension system and all-terrain tyres too.

OPTUS SATSLEEVE+

A satellite phone is a massive lifeline when you’re in the wilderness or far out to sea, it certainly saved our butts when the mothership broke down. The Optus SatSleeve+ is an awesome option because it turns your compatible smartphone into a satellite phone.

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last shot SOUTH MISSION BEACH, QLD

The repetition of paddle stroke after paddle stroke soothes the soul. Hermit crabs scurry at the water's edge dodging the sharp claws of wandering cassowaries who stray from the undergrowth, whilst brilliant blue Ulysses butterflies flutter in the shade of the lowland rainforest. Dolphins cruise the deeper channels in search of the schools of mackerel, whilst shallow beds of sea grass offer a home to the real life mermaids of the sea, the dugong. In the gentle sheltered inlets, green sea turtles cruise without a worry, and only moments after this photo was taken, a two metre plus giant Queensland groper greeted us. In the distance, Dunk and Bedarra Islands stand silhouetted against the rising sun named as ‘The Father Isle’ and “The Mother Isle” by early European explorers, but previously referred to as Coonanglebah, "the island of peace and plenty” and Biagurra by the Bandjin and Djiru people. There is no doubt this lush stretch of coastline still reflects a ‘peace and plenty’ aura of so many centuries ago.

WORDS AND PIC: Mark Watson

*Cond DEPO

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TO SUBSCRIBE! new look mag! new look mag!

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kimberley crusade Tackling the Kimberley by land, sea and air

top 10 mtb hacks Make your bike lighter, faster and smoother

epic shootout

Tackling the Kimberley by land, sea and air

SECRET TASSIE Discover

top 10 mtb hacks Make your bike lighter, faster and smoother

secluded patches of paradise beyond the tourist trail

epic shootout Eight top head torches battle it out

SECRET TASSIE Discover

secluded patches of paradise beyond the tourist trail

PRINT POST APPROVED 100008799

PRINT POST APPROVED 100008799

Eight top head torches battle it out

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kimberley crusade

sept-oct 2017

$14.95

sept-oct 2017

$14.95

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