Adventures NW Magazine Winter 2017/18 by John DOnofrio

ADVENTURES NW >>> WINTER 2017/18

Winter Light

Adventures on Skis: Baker, Silver Star & Snoqualmie 10 GREAT Whatcom Winter Hikes Tree Wells: A Survival Guide Mountain Biking for Dummies Nooksack Loop Kukatali Preserve >>> EXTENSIVE OUTDOOR EVENTS CALENDAR INSIDE

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CONTRIBUTORS

Volume 12. Issue 4

Nick Belcaster is an outdoor journalist who resides in Bellingham, WA, where he received a journalism degree from Western Washington University. When not on the road, Nick spends his spare hours exploring the Pacific Northwest on rack, rope, skins, boot tread, with a pen thrown in for good measure. Long ago, Kathy and Craig Copeland rearranged their lives to make hiking the white-hot molten core of their shared identity. They’re now Canada’s most prolific hiking-and-camping guidebook authors. Visit hikingcamping.com to see their titles and peruse their blog. Alan Fritzberg grew up on the banks of the Nooksack River. Professional work as a chemist took him to other locales, but eventually he returned to Cascadia. He enjoys outdoor photography while hiking the coastal and alpine trails. The poet Roger Gilman lives in Bellingham and can be found around the northwest along Cascade Mountain streams and in Puget Sound salt marshes fly fishing and birding for poems. He is a philosopher of evolutionary ecology and of restoration biology, and former dean of Fairhaven College at Western Washington University. Mark Harfenist was born and raised in New York. After 40 years in places with insufficient snowfall, he settled at last in Bellingham, where he dabbles in mountain biking, motorcycling, backcountry skiing, kayaking and world travel. In his spare time, he works as a family therapist and mental health counselor. David Inscho is a believer in coffee, beer, and the profound power of Wilderness. When not at his day job, he is backpacking, working as a volunteer janitor at a couple of fire lookouts, or genuflecting with camera in the silent wilds of our public lands. See more at david-inscho.smugmug.com Carver Scott Jensen is regarded by artists and collectors as a living master. He brings his formidable knowledge of indigenous oral traditions and history, and his technical prowess to a collaborative exhibition with his wife, Courtney Lipson, currently on display at the Stonington Gallery in Seattle. Learn more at SpeakingCedar.com or StoningtonGallery.com Scott Kranz (@scott_kranz) is a full-time commercial photographer based in Seattle, specializing in outdoor sports, lifestyle,

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WINTER | 2017/18

and landscape photography. Partnering with the world’s leading outdoor brands, Scott focuses on capturing authentic moments of real adventure while surrounded by the most wild, rugged, and pristine beauty of North America and beyond. Learn more at scott-kranz.com Sarah Laing is a nutritionist, author and creator of the blog, Planetary Cuisine, which explores the connection between cultural food and health and is the topic of her upcoming second book. Canadian-born, she and her husband now live in Bellingham, WA. and own S&J Natural Products which offers CBD-infused products for healthy lifestyles. Brad Lane is a freelance writer originally from the state of Iowa with a long-standing love affair with the Pacific Northwest. While he thinks that downhill is great, and snowshoeing is fun, you’ll find Brad in some cross-country skis this winter. Read about Brad’s adventures at pacificcresttrailjournal.com Alicia Leggett is a mountain bike racer and instructor living in Missoula, MT. She has competed in cross country, downhill, cyclocross and enduro events, including two Enduro World Series races. When she’s not riding, she studies journalism and geoscience at the University of Montana. Courtney Lipson is known primarily for her micro-mosaic jewelry, which she also uses to adorn the sculptures carved by her husband, Scott Jensen. Together, they have spent decades traveling the Pacific Northwest Coastline from Oregon to Southeast Alaska, and have been adopted into a Tlingit family and given Tlingit names. Learn more at CDLjewelry.com. Jason D. Martin is a professional climbing guide, a freelance writer and the director of operations at the American Alpine Institute. Jason co-authored Washington Ice: A Climbing Guide and Rock Climbing: The AMGA Single Pitch Manual; and authored Fun Climbs Red Rocks: Topropes and Moderates and Best Climbs Red Rocks. John Nelson has worked at newspapers in Seattle, Spokane, Memphis and Colorado. His outdoors stories have appeared in The Los Angeles Times, Seattle Times, The Spokesman-Review, and many other publications. He lives in Seattle and enjoys all things outdoors: skiing, cycling, hiking and kayaking. Read his blog at SkiZer.org. Craig Romano has written and co-written 20 books, mostly on hiking. He has hiked more than 20,000 miles in Washington. His new Urban Trails Bellingham (Mountaineers Books) spotlights great places to hike and run in Bellingham, the Chuckanuts, Skagit Valley and Anacortes. Visit him at CraigRomano.com.

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IN THIS ISSUE

October Skiing

Mark Harfenist

Happy Feet

ANW Staff

Silver Star

John Nelson

Kukutali Preserve

John D’Onofrio

Dangerous Powder

Jason D. Martin

The Winter Light

David Inscho

Ten Great Winter Hikes

Craig Romano

Snoqualmie Sno-Parks

Brad Lane

Mountain Biking for Dummies

Alicia Leggett

DESTINATIONS Quiet 6 Out & About 8 Communiqué 9 Local Wildlife 9 3 Great Hikes ... for Winter 9 Bright Lines 22 Outside In 23 eARTh: The Art of Nature 32 Field Trip: Pipiwai Trail 39 Vital Signs 43 Cascadia Gear 46 Race | Play | Experience Calendar 47 Next Adventure 50

stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.

When we contemplate the whole globe as one great dewdrop, striped and dotted with continents and islands, flying through space with other stars all singing and shining together as one, the whole universe appears as an infinite storm of beauty. -John Muir

COVER PHOTO by Scott Kranz

Photo by John D’Onofrio

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Quiet

Volume 12. Issue 4

ach winter I make a point of visiting Huntoon Point, the exquisite high point of Kulshan Ridge, located strategically between Mt. Baker and Mt. Shuksan in the numinous North Cascades.

There is a special stillness to be found here, that particular quiet unique to high and lonely places that have lost themselves beneath a thick and acoustically profound blanket of snow. It is a silence so profound that one can hear one’s heart beating. A hush that tends to reduce conversations to whispering. Winter offers us many such precious moments of quiet beauty and time to reflect, an opportunity to slow our breathing and refresh our souls. From this stillness we are presented with a new page in the stories that we write with our lives. From a sensory perspective the turning from autumn to winter is compelling, as the landscapes of vivid colors and complicated texture are erased by an elegant surface of singular and sensual smoothness. It captures our attention.

Photo by John D’Onofrio

A Look Ahead:

Our Spring Issue

The last lingering days of autumn are always especially sweet, imbued as they are with a sense of melancholy as the memories of sunny days in verdant meadows fade. For me, this transition speaks to the profound truth of temporality. We tend to build our lives upon an illusion of permanence, in denial of the inescapable reality of constant change. Things don’t last. Times don’t last. We don’t last. Winter reminds us how important it is to live in the moment, to pay attention to the small and subtle details that make the big picture so rich and mystifying, to cherish the time we have with our beloved companions on this strange and wondrous journey. To live life fully, avoiding the metaphysical quicksand of memory and anticipation. To disengage the auto-pilot. To seize the day and savor each moment. But of course, winter is not an end. Under its protective blanket of snow, the land prepares itself for spring, regenerates itself, an endless cycle that is in fact the essence of timelessness. It’s a zen koan: eternal yet constantly changing. On Huntoon Point, the late afternoon sun bathes Kulshan Ridge in rich warm light. It’s getting late but I linger, reluctant to break the spell. At last, as the sun sinks behind the peaks, I shoulder my pack, clip into my skis and start the joyous journey home.

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Out&About

Nooksack Loop Trail to Connect the Dots Many people living in Whatcom County can resonate with the age-old advice from John Muir to “throw a loaf of bread and a pound of tea in an old sack and jump over the back fence.” Our local urban trails weave an impressive system that traverses a variety of landscapes, and what’s more, many are right outside our back doors. But what are the options when you feel like stretching your legs a little more? Maybe 45 miles longer? The Nooksack Loop Trail hopes to fill that void by linking existing trail systems in Whatcom County to connect the cities of Bellingham, Ferndale, Lynden and Everson. A work-in-progress, the Nooksack Trail is by no stretch a new idea, and can trace its lineage back to a yellowed and dogeared map produced in 1973. Created in conjunction with a trail plan that the County Park Commissioners had drawn up, the route is composed of existing and previously proposed trail systems,

Story by Nick Belcaster

including the Coast Millennium Trail, the Nooksack River Trail and the Bay to Baker Trail. Strolling through numerous parks, along old rail lines and following the Nooksack, the trail would allow for a different type of inter-county travel. The idea has endured since then, says Daniel Tepper, President of the Whatcom Parks and Recreation Foundation, who have been leading progress on the trail in recent years. The majority of the work so far has taken place between Bellingham and Ferndale, with the city of Everson having already completed their segment of the trail. But it hasn’t been without it’s roadblocks. Building trails outside of public lands is a challenge, Tepper says. Whereas a trail in a National Forest can just be plotted out and work can begin, a trail that traverses a network of property owners requires a hodgepodge of easements, land purchases and gifts to connect all the dots.

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President of the Whatcom Parks and Recreation Foundation Daniel Tepper; Whatcom County Executive Jack Louws, and former Ferndale mayor Gary Jensen at the Nooksack Loop Trail Dedication in Ferndale’s Hovander Park in 2014.

“One of the issues we have found is that everyone loves to have trails,” Tepper says, “except when they run through their backyard.” Geographic Information System (GIS) studies have shown that the trail would be within two miles of 80% of the population of Whatcom County, and by taking into consideration the unique needs of land owners, Tepper says that the trail takes a much more community-minded approach. All decisions are based on the premise that the trail shouldn’t negatively impact the properties that it passes by. With help from the cities through which the route passes, the Whatcom Parks and Recreation Foundation continues to chip away at sections of the trail. Tepper believes that most work on the trail could be accomplished through local government taking up the cause, but until then, the Foundation will continue to spearhead the project.

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It is Tepper’s hope that the Nooksack Loop will be a trail that becomes a part of the landscape—and the community, a seamless integration that will allow locals to step onto a trail system just outside their back fences. Whether you’ll want a loaf of bread and a pound of tea will be up to you. >>> Go to AdventuresNW.com

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3Great Hikes

C ommuniqué

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Share your thoughts!

Write to editor@AdventuresNW.com

Cathedral Grove

Attack of the Drones First, I’ve got a serious problem with your publication. Typically I like to flash through written material, extract a page or two for future follow-up and toss (or preferably share) the remainder as appropriate. My problem is that consistently your publication doesn’t allow me this efficient luxury. Article after article along with your stunning photo selections make it hard not to archive and refer back to past issues. I probably have to change my attitude but for now I’ll just have to persevere as best I can. When I read Janiene Liccardi’s recent letter about dogs in the wilderness (I too had many hiking adventures with my coy-dog Jubal) it brought a topic to mind that I’d been mulling over for some time. I’ve noticed near popular trail areas an increasing incursion of drones. For example, twice now as I went up to Huntoon Point to observe various astronomical events (full moon rises, vernal & solstice sunsets, and auroral displays) I’ve had to endure the “mad hornet” buzzing of drones. In one instance on a very narrow ridge of snow, I actually had to ask the drone operator to elevate his drone which was hovering at head-height, blocking our passage. I’m not saying I’m anti-drone but the times and places to use them, as well as impacts on non-drone operators, should be considered. Anyway, I can’t be the only one who has had similar experiences. Hopefully someone can be motivated to write about the legality and impacts to our wildland recreation by this rapidly expanding new technology. Bud Hardwick Bellingham, WA.

Local Wildlife: Our Favorite Fauna

Cathedral Grove, part of MacMillian Provincial Park near Port Alberni on Vancouver Island, is an almost 400-acre stand of magnificent old growth forest, the largest of its kind that can be reached by automobile in British Columbia. A network of short, easy trails wind through the ancient, stupendous trees, the biggest of which are some 800 years old and 30 feet around. Light filters down to the forest floor, illuminating it like a Renaissance painting. The grove is aptly named. Trailhead: BC Hwy 44, 25 km west of Qualicum Beach and 16 km east of Port Alberni

Hoh Rain Forest

There’s green. There’s bright green. And then there’s Hoh Rain Forest green. When the grey palette of winter holds Cascadia in its grip, a foray into this magical green rainforest in Olympic National Park will stimulate your color receptors like nobody’s business. You could wander blissfully on the two short loops near the visitor center— the Hall of Mosses and the Spruce Nature Trail—all told, only two miles of easy walking for all comers. Photo by John D’Onofrio Or you could tackle the Hoh River Trail, which will transport you through moss-draped forest into a silent realm (acoustic ecologist Gordon Hempton famously declared the Hoh to be the quietest place in the contiguous US some years back). The first 13 miles are flat, usually snowfree and ideal for a winter over-nighter (NPS backcountry permit required). Oh, sometimes it rains.

Dusky Grouse

Trailhead: Upper Hoh Rd., 18 miles from US 101 south of Forks

by Mike Botwin

Thunder Knob

Two new members of my hiking club and I were walking back from Gothic Lake when about one third of the way down I spotted a grouse standing on the trail about ten feet ahead of us. I reached in my pocket, took out my camera, and started shooting pictures like crazy. The grouse looked at us, unbothered, as if it owned the trail. In fact, I think it did. A minute or two later, when it was ready, it moseyed into the surrounding shrubs and disappeared. It was an exciting moment for us all.

The North Cascades are by-and-large buried under snow for much of the year but the Thunder Knob Trail, located at Diablo Lake in North Cascades National Park is an exception. It’s modest elevation (topping out at only 1800 feet) means that it is often snow-free, even in the depths of February. It’s about 3.5 miles round-trip and gains only 600 feet. The trail begins at the Colonial Creek Campground and immediately crosses the creek. In winter, the bridge is removed, so some lively rock-hopping might be required. Once across, it winds through the woods, passes by a marshy little basin and eventually arrives at Thunder Knob, with its commanding view of beautiful Diablo Lake and surrounding peaks.

Send us your Wildlife! Send photos and stories of your wildlife encounters to editor@AdventuresNW.com stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.

Trailhead: Colonial Creek Campground, north side of WA 20 (The North Cascades Highway) at milepost 130.

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A Philosophical Approach Squak Glacier, October 14

wo of us meet along the interstate early Sunday morning (fog, drizzle, darkness), ready to ski.

We drive to the Schreiber’s Meadow trailhead, then sit in the front seat for a while—sometimes peering out the windows at the gloom, sometimes opening a door to poke an arm out in the rain. We make a lot of useless comments designed to stave off despair: “I think it’s lightening up a bit; couldn’t see those trees a few minutes ago.” “Feels like it’s getting colder; the snow level’s probably dropping.” Other commentary is designed to defend against any hopeful, upbeat or optimistic tendencies: “Could stay like

Story by Mark Harfenist

this until mid-April for all we know. Shoot, last year it never even snowed at all until early December, and even then it mostly rained.” I get out and wander over to use one of the large and luxurious pit toilets, then study the posted maps and trail reports, reading all the notices twice. My partner fumbles around until he finds the recliner lever on the seat, gets comfortable and begins napping. Then, without preamble, a couple of blue spots appear in the sky. Visibility improves, spirits lift. We shuffle our gear, discuss certain important philosophical questions (60 feet of 7 mm line, or 120 feet of 9 mm? Stove for melting snow, or extra water? Ice axes, or self-arrest grips on ski poles?), shuffle some more, and go trudging up the trail. As soon as the

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parking lot is out of sight, the blue sky goes to wherever blue sky commonly goes, and it starts drizzling again. More philosophical discussion about this. Bits of snow appear along the trail below 4000 feet, and soon there is continuous snow cover. My partner is carrying unreasonably lightweight and floppy wax-less skis and he is wearing NN-BC boots; he puts his skis on, dances a little jig (it is possible that I imagined this part), and cruises happily up the trail. I am carrying giant, stiff skis, massive releasable tele bindings, plush climbing skins and huge plastic boots. My back hurts and my legs are tired, but I hide this as best I am able, pretending contentment at carrying this load uphill through the slush. We break out of the woods into an area of steep, snowcovered heather, and I hunker down to put on boots and skis. Suddenly we’re skiing, it’s mid-October, and life is good. Every ten minutes the weather does a total reversal, from miserable to perfectly tolerable and then back again, but we continue trudging uphill along the ridge. Heather gives way to

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moraine, slushy snowpack deepens to 8 or 10 inches, and the Squak Glacier comes into view, horribly receded, melted out and crevassed. I skied here in July, just a few months ago, and I am astounded to see rock where there recently was snow, giant gaping crevasses where a short time ago the surface was smooth. We climb a line along the glacier’s edge through a small cornice above Crag View and prepare to descend. Skiing is pretty good for a rainy weekend in October: 8-10 inches of consolidated—a euphemism for “sopping wet”—fresh snow over old nevé, smooth and slick for about 800 vertical feet. That is followed by 500 feet of half-hidden morainal rocks under seven inches of fresh, followed by 500 feet of lumpy heather under five inches. Next, a narrow trail descends through old-growth with just a few inches of coverage, followed by sections of pine needles, then deadfalls, then gravel under a meager inch. I take my skis off and load them on my pack, but my partner has long since shot off into the distance down Onward and Upward! the trail. Judging by his track, he’s leaping Photo by Steve Barnett

over the gravelly stream beds and hydroplaning through sections of waterlogged pine needles at a high rate of speed. Eventually I find him, sitting by the trail, swaddled in a lot of clothes as if he’s been waiting for me for a long time. He is polite about this, but cannot resist mentioning how pleased he is to have chosen such appropriately light and maneuverable gear, glancing disdainfully at my great and unwieldy load. I am obliged to suggest that his obvious advantage in skill, athleticism, experience and positive attitude probably contributed substantially as well. I threaten to denounce him publicly to the gear junkies on backcountry skiing websites. This seems to shut him up. We reach the parking lot under almost cloudless skies, fall colors blazing orange and yellow. I had skied a couple of thousand vertical feet, my more appropriately-equipped partner rather more than that. Altogether, this was a very reasonable first ski for the emergent season, informed in turn by pathos, bathos and a touch of the sublime. ANW

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Happy Feet The New Technology of Footwear I

Story by ANW Staff

way people buy shoes and insoles. The process is simple—and impressive. The technology is complex but user-friendly. Step into the scanner and a remarkablydetailed 3-D map of each Since time immemofoot is rendered while rial folks who use their feet precisely measuring foot a lot (runners, hikers, etc) length, width, and voluhave had to make do with metric data. Once this footware that sort of fits. is done, take a few a few A revolutionary new techstrides on a gait analyzer to nology promises to change gather information about this situation by making Fairhaven Runners & Walkers’ your walking dynamics. available custom-fitted and Kevin Baily and FitStation FitStation then comindividualized footwear pares these measurements through cutting-edge 3D with a database of available shoes and scanning and dynamic gait analysis. finds ideal matches. To pull this off, FitStation is the result of an innovaSuperfeet meticulously measured every tive partnership between Ferndale, WA.shoe in the Fairhaven Runners’ inventory based Superfeet and Hewlett-Packard. and compiled an exhaustive database of This in-store technology (computer, 3D exact specifications, enabling a perfect scanner, and gait analysis mat) enables a match based on the scan data. It takes the previously unimaginable level of customfitting process to a whole new level. ization when it comes to footwear. Additionally—and here’s where it The technology was beta-tested at gets interesting—the data can be used 11 hand-picked retail locations this sumfor the creation of customized Superfeet mer and autumn. One of those locations insoles. Called ME3D, the caps (the base was Bellingham’s Fairhaven Runners & of the insole that supports the rear foot Walkers, a Mecca for runners and walkand provides structure and stability to the ers of every stripe since 1999. foam layer) for these insoles are produced Steve Roguski, owner of Fairhaven on a 3D printer— truly one-of-a-kind inRunners is enthusiastic about the new soles designed to fit a specific individual’s technology. “The FitStation brings a feet. more data-driven approach to fitting in a “The operative word in discussions retail setting like ours,” he says. “We have around what Superfeet is accomplishalways measured and assessed, but this ing with this technology is ‘disruptive’,” technology brings objectivity and masRoguski says. “They are disrupting how sive data-crunching that is well beyond shoes are currently fit and produced.” human capacity and anything that has For Superfeet, the investment in this been done at retail before.” new technology has been huge, requiring FitStation aims to revolutionize the

t’s an old problem: everyone’s feet are different. Even on the same person, the right and left feet tend to be asymmetrical.

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a network of partnerships with technology providers. “They had a vision,” Roguski explains, “and then built relationships with HP, Jabil Systems, RS Scan out of Europe, Desma, and others,” 40-year old Superfeet is a global success story with local roots, a company known for giving back. Their ‘Be the Awesome’ employee volunteer program grants employees two fully-paid days off each year (“Awesome Time”) to volunteer for community organizations of their choice, in addition to undertaking company-wide volunteer activities. The company also sends a group of employeeowners on a week-long trip each year in cooperation with Medical Teams International to do humanitarian work around the globe. Superfeet also donates 1% of their sales to support organizations in four focus areas: education, basic needs, the environment and building youth selfconfidence through activities. Local non-profits that have benefitted from this philanthropy include Northwest Youth Services, Rebound and the Whatcom Land Trust. Fairhaven Runners is also known for their community-oriented projects including a plethora of sustainability initiatives, offering alternative transportation incentives to employees and passing along good used shoes to athletic teams, thrift stores, non-profits and shelters for teens and the homeless. When cutting-edge technology is combined with such a generous community spirit, the result is clearly a perfect fit. ANW >>> Go to AdventuresNW.com

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Silver Star BCâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s World-Class Nordic Ski Destination Story by John Nelson

Nordic skiers enjoy the trails at Silver Star and Sovereign Lakes near Vernon, British Columbia. Photo by Blake Jorgenson/Silver Star

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ou might not know it, but a world-class Nordic skiing destination is just a few hours away from Western Washington.

You’ll find Canada’s largest groomed trail system at Silver Star Provincial Park near Vernon, British Columbia. And if you visit before the end of the year, you’ll have a bonus: Olympic athletes training for the PyeongChang 2018 Games in South Korea will be skiing alongside you. Every day, 105 kilometers are groomed for classic and skate-skiing at this sprawling network of trails at Sovereign Lake Nordic Centre and neighboring Silver Star Mountain Resort. The trail system is at high elevation (starting at 5,450 feet) and receives reliable snow annually, making it an excellent choice for early season. “We are really fortunate,” said Guy Paulsen, destination sales manager at Silver Star Mountain Resort. “We seem to catch the early storms every year.” “Usually by the third week in October, we’re skiing,” said Troy Hudson, general manager of Sovereign Lake Nordic Club, which operates the trails next to the ski resort. It’s that early season snowfall and meticulous grooming that draws avid Nordic skiers and Olympic athletes. Teams from Canada and the U.S. are regulars, said Shane Landreville, Nordic and Bike Programs Manager for Silver Star Mountain Resort. Before the 2010 winter games in Vancouver, teams from around the world visited. “Race teams will come here because they know we’ll have snow,” Landreville said. “We also have the facilities that can support visiting teams.” The trail system is unusual because it takes in acreage operated by the commercial Silver Star Mountain Resort, and the neighboring provincial parks land, operated by Sovereign Lake Nordic Club. The two organizations work together effectively to offer an excellent experience, Paulsen said. stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.

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“We have a very good partner right next to us,” he said. “We are joined at the hip in a lot of ways.” The alpine village offers nine onmountain hotels and lodges, with 18 food and beverage providers, making it a lively place to stay during a visit. Besides alpine and cross-country skiing, the resort offers tubing, ice skating, fat biking, hockey, snowmobiling and snowshoeing. Families on extended stays can enjoy the varied activities day and night. “We have everything you need right out your door,” Landreville said. At the Sovereign Lake Nordic Centre next to the resort, it’s all about the crosscountry skiing, where the Vernon-based club operates a full-service lodge with ski rentals and a ski school. The club traces its beginnings to the 1930s, when outdoorsy Vernon residents ventured into the snowy mountains 14 miles away to explore the backcountry skiing. It wasn’t until the 1970s that cross-

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country skiing really took off at Sovereign Lake, Hudson said, and the club has now grown to become the largest in Canada, with 1,700 active members. Most members live in Vernon, but about 20 percent are regional, including many from the Pacific Northwest. A large contingent comes from the Methow Valley in Winthrop, another major Nordic destination. Teams will begin showing up to train in November to take advantage of the early snowpack, and the Enjoying the Silver Star nightlife. race activity will culPhoto by Blake Jorgenson/Silver Star minate with a NorAm Series sprints event in early December, a qualifier for the U.S. Olympic Team, Hudson said. “We’ll have all the big teams here,” Hudson said. “It should be really exciting.” In the future, Hudson hopes Sovereign Lake can host World Cup events. The trails were the site of a World Cup race in 2005, and “that’s the direction we’d like to go again,” he said. The club is busily making plans to add more trails and lodge facilities to attract World Cup racing. But you don’t need to be a serious racer to enjoy the skiing at Sovereign Lake and Silver Star, Hudson said. Even if teams are training or races are taking place, the trails are always open for recreational users. “The way our trails are designed, you get into the backcountry really easily,” he said. “You can be watching a race and then go 1K away and be all alone.”

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One of the advantages of partnering with an alpine resort is access to lifts, Hudson said. The trail system winds to the top of the mountain at 6,280 feet, but for those who don’t want to climb, chairlifts are available. “That’s one of the things that’s unique to us,” said Landreville, of Silver Star resort. “We’re an alpine ski area, and we have lift-accessed cross-country skiing to the top of the mountain. You can grind it to the top if you want to or you can take a lift.” And next year, for the 2018-19 season, Silver Star is adding a gondola to its lift system, making the ride to the top even more pleasant. Because the skiing is so good, some avid Nordic enthusiasts

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have second homes at Silver Star. One of them is Jay Wiener, 62, of San Francisco, a regular on the Worldloppet (crosscountry ski marathon) stage, who owns a condominium at Silver Star. Wiener visits in the early season to train, then returns in March for late-season skiing. “The quality of the grooming is fantastic,” said Wiener, who skis at events around the world. Besides the skiing, Wiener also simply likes the laid back vibe of Silver Star and Vernon. “It’s a cultural experience every time I go there,” he said. “It’s just very friendly…I’ve never had anyone in my 16 years of living up there who’s come for a visit and hasn’t loved it.” With a friendly, colorful village, ample snowfall and miles of groomed trails, what’s not to like? The resort’s Paulsen makes a pitch to get your season

started early on the trails of Silver Star and Sovereign Lake. “Stop thinking about skiing in November —get up here,” he said. “You ANW don’t have to wait.”

If You Go

Photo by John Nelson

Getting there: Silver Star Mountain Resort is about five hours’ drive (284 miles) from Bellingham via the border crossing at Sumas-Abbotsford, British Columbia, then heading east and north via Kamloops to Vernon. The resort is 14 miles from town. Tickets: Silver Star-only or Sovereign Lake-only day tickets for adults are $18 (CAD). A combined ticket for both areas is $25 (CAD). Price breaks are given for multiday tickets. Early season Nordic packages: Silver Star offers special discounts during the early season. Go to the resort website (skisilverstar.com) or call (800) 663-4431.

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New Beginnings at Kukutali Story and photos by John Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Onofrio

On the North Trail, Kiket Island

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An opening in the trees framed a view out over the water and the distant Deception Pass Bridge. It would be a wonderful place to watch the sun go down. A short descent brought us to the end of Kiket Island and a second isthmus, this one leading to Flagstaff Island, a wildlife sanctuary where entry is prohibited. The isthmus itself is a fine The Kukutali Preserve, located on Swinomish Tribal lands place to spend a few relaxing hours on a mild winter day beneath in Skagit County, was opened to the public just three years ago, a wide-open sky. The strip of sand is almost enthe result of a ground-breaking alliance of Tribe tirely covered in a jumble of driftwood that forms and State. An encouraging development—and a Exploring the south a sort of sea-weathered sculpture garden. fine place to savor a winter afternoon. beach of Kiket Island I climbed around on the wood with my From the small parking area located off Sneecamera and tripod, photographing the exquisite Oosh Road on the Swinomish Reservation, cross forms and textures. My friends wandered the the sand spit, or tombolo, on the well-developed edges, along the sand, observing birds and the trail beside storm-blown driftwood to Kiket sun gleaming on the quiet waters, soaking up the Island. The term, ‘island’ gives one pause. After Vitamin D like vampires. all, you can walk to it. But let’s not quibble. Somewhat reluctantly we climbed back onto Once on Kiket, there are three trail options, all Kiket, aiming to take the south trail back. We of which converge on the western shore. The middle detoured to explore the once-upon a time site of trail is basically a gravel road, so a good strategy is a lavish home built here back in the 1950’s. An to utilize the north and south trails instead. Total ancient gnarled apple tree, a remnant from days round-trip distance is only a bit over two miles: short gone by, presided over a meadow that presumably and very sweet. We hiked out on the north trail, and had once been a lawn of sorts. It’s branches were full of apples immediately entered lush forest full of ferns, mushrooms and luxuand several self-possessed deer were vociferously dining on lowrious moss. A few remnant old growth cedars rose above elegant hanging fruit when we appeared. They retreated and we picked a madrones. Lustrous salal and wild rose inhabited the shadows.

hanks to the Swinomish Indian Tribal Community and the Washington State Parks Department, we have new public access to a beautiful coastal forest and shoreline beside the Salish Sea.

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few apples and enjoyed a late-afternoon snack ourselves. A short side path led down to the shoreline, affording access to a wild little strip of pebble beach beneath a steep and overcut cliff. Twisted madrones dangled from the top, apparently eager to join their fallen brethren at the water’s edge. An eagle erupted from one of the trees on the cliff with an audible whoosh. I was struck with a sense of solitude, unusual this close to the car. We followed the south trail through the quiet forest, turn-

ing near the east end of the island on a short side path which brought us to a wide open hillside with commanding views out over Kiket Bay, burnished now in the late afternoon sun. A heron danced in the shallows. We lingered here for a few moments, one last pause to inhale the evening breeze and absorb the fleeting warmth of the winter sun before heading down the trail, across ANW the isthmus and back to the mainland.

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Son, in your chest rages a war between two wolves. One is dark as that snag silhouetted by the silver moon. It is angry and envious, arrogant and resentful: It lies and cuts corners.

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Kukutali History The Kukatali Preserve was opened to the public on June 16, 2014, the result of a firstof-its-kind cooperative effort between the Swinomish Tribe and the Washington State Parks and Recreation Commission. The Preserve is managed by a board consisting of three representatives each from the Tribe and Parks Department. It consists of 83 acres and some two miles of shoreline. The Management Plan stresses preservation, habitat restoration, the exercising of treaty rights and limited recreation. The parking lot at the trailhead is small by design.

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The history of these 83 acres has been contentious and unusual, to say the least. Kikat and Flagstaff Islands were included in Swinomish lands as part of the Treaty of Point Elliot in 1855. But in 1887, ownership of the land was transferred to the Clark Chubahud family, a result of the Dawes Act, legislation introduced to transfer ownership of native lands to specific individuals. Chubahud sold the land to a consortium of Skagit County residents in 1928. One of these, Gene Dunlap, eventually acquired the entire property and constructed a home on Kiket Island in the 1950’s, complete with tennis court and swimming pool. Dunlap, it is said, welcomed the use of the beaches on the south side of the island by local residents.

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In 1970 the Seattle City Council voted to purchase the land as the site of a proposed nuclear power plant to be built on Kiket Island, one of three such plants on the drawing board for Skagit County. Opposition groups formed to “Save the Magic Skagit” and the backlash was strengthened by tribal opposition. In an effort to sway public opinion, Seattle City Light promoted the notion that the discharge from the reactor would heat the waters around the island, creating a yearround warm-water swimming area in Skagit Bay. Despite this dubious benefit, the project was thankfully abandoned in 1972. In 1982 Kukutali was sold to Wallace Opdycke, one of the founders of Chateau Ste. Michelle Winery, who didn’t share Dunlap’s welcoming attitude and prohibited all access. On May 17, 2010, a historic co-management agreement was signed between the Swinomish Indian Tribal Community and the Washington State Parks and Recreation Commission to jointly acquire the Preserve for the purpose of “limited public access consistent with protection of the resources and ecology of Kiket Island.” Today the Kukutali Preserve is managed as a part of nearby Deception Pass State Park. As both a park and restored tribal land, Kukutali represents what is possible with cooperation between the tribes and the state. It is a welcome outlier.

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VIE

Dangerous Powder

The Deadly Pitfalls of Tree Wells Story by Jason D. Martin

t was June and we were just his wrist and pulled. He was up and out in seconds… outside the Mt. Baker Ski Area Caden was a little rattled, but fine. near the Bagley Lakes Parking A few minutes later he was rolling in the Lot. My children—who have grown up skiing and climbing— snow and sledding with his sister again. were horsing around in the snow. They were sledding, throwing snowballs, rolling around and Snowboarders or skiers can fall into an area of deep, pretty much doing everyloose snow in tree wells and become immobilized. thing that they could to The more the person struggles, the more entrapped in get soaking wet in spring the snow he or she becomes. Most of the documented isothermal snow. cases of deep snow suffocation at ski areas involve

Danger in tree wells

people falling headfirst into a tree well.

I wasn’t paying super close attention to my 8 year-old son. He was behind me building a fort near a dead tree. My 9 year-old daughter was sledding down a steep slope in front of me and I was watching her. Suddenly, I heard a yelp, and then, “Help! Help!” Low-hanging branches hide tree well from view I spun around to see what Tree well was going on. My son was no longer where he’d been playing. Tree wells can form when He was gone. low-hanging branches “Help! HELP!” prevent snowfall from filling I rushed over to the dead and compacting around the base of the tree tree that he’d been playing Illustration by Jason Rinne next to and looked into the tree well. Caden was jammed But what if that’s not the way this six-feet down between the decaying played out? What if it had been winter remains of the tree and a wall of snow. and there was snow on the tree above Tears streamed down his cheeks as he him? Snow that would fall down as he scratched at the rotten white walls, trystruggled to get out, burying him? And ing to climb out. what if he fell in headfirst? Such a fall I dropped to my stomach, grabbed

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could have been fatal, even in the wet June snowpack. When people think about snow submersion incidents they nearly always think about avalanches. Avalanches are certainly an important thing for backcountry travelers to think about, but they’re not the only thing. Tree wells are incredibly dangerous. A tree well is a hole in the seasonal snowpack around a tree trunk. Branches act as a shelter for the space beneath, keeping snow from collecting up against the trunk while creating an air pocket. The same low branches that create the well may also camouflage the danger. It’s difficult to see that the snow next to the tree is unstable and that there might be a large air pocket. The branches on a tree that create a tree well may also produce the second part of the tree well hazard. These branches tend to hold snow. When someone falls into a tree well, this snow can come down on top of them, further burying the victim. Every year there are stories about people who have gone into a tree well and suffocated. Essentially, a skier or a snowboarder takes a fall and slides into a tree well. Sometimes they fall in right-side up, sometimes, upside down.

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When upside down it’s very difficult to get out. Indeed, struggling while upside down in a well can actually cause an individual to slip down further. The result is very similar to an avalanche; an individual suffocates in the snow. Tree wells are particularly dangerous after a big storm drops a lot of new powder. Occasionally there are front-country avalanches, but they are exceedingly rare. Tree well accidents happen every year both in and out-of-bounds. They are a hazard that ski resorts really can’t manage. Individual riders have to manage the hazard themselves. The Deep Snow Safety website (deepsnowsafety.org) indicates that, “the odds of surviving a deep snow immersion accident are low; especially if you are without a partner. In two experiments conducted in the U.S. and Canada in which volunteers were temporarily placed in a tree well, 90% could not rescue themselves.” Here are some helpful—and possibly life-saving—hints to help you stay safe around tree wells:

Ski with a Partner Skiing with a partner is the most important part of staying safe on a powder day. This means actually keeping track of your partner visually. If you speed ahead and are waiting at the bottom of the slope for your partner to show up, then you have failed to truly ski with the other person. Many of those who have died as a result of a tree well incident were with partners, but the partner did not actually witness the fall. Visual contact is important! In addition to staying in visual contact, it is also important to be close enough to your partner that you could dig him out if an accident occurs. How long does that person have? Well, about as long as you can hold your breath... So you should be close enough to perform a rescue quickly. If your partner goes into a hole, don’t leave to get help. Dig him out! Once you have reached the person’s face, be sure to clear the airway, as there might be snow in their mouth.

Carry Backcountry Equipment Obviously digging requires a shovel. Be sure that you have a shovel, a beacon and a probe on any big snow days, in-bounds or out. If you’re a skier, remove your ski pole straps. People who go into tree wells often have trouble removing these straps while in a hole.

Stay on Groomed Trails Groomed trails are always the safest on big powder days. If you stray from the groomers you may expose yourself to tree well danger; the best way to mitigate that away from groomed runs is to stay away from the trees. There are no tree stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.

wells where there are no trees.

If You Fall in a Tree Well If you realize that you are falling into a tree well, try to grab the tree and the tree-branches. Once you’ve fallen in, try to hold onto the tree or branches so that you don’t fall in further. As noted, struggling in a tree well often makes you sink more deeply. It can also cause snow from the branches above to fall down on top of you, simultaneously increasing both the difficulty of escape and the likelihood of suffocation. So if you do go into a hole, think. Don’t panic. Try to breathe calmly in order to conserve the little bit of air you might have while waiting for a rescue. If you are in the hole, try to create a breathing space near your face. If you’re secure, try to rock your body gently in order to increase this space. Over time, heat from your body, along with rocking motions, will compact the snow. The hardening of the snow around you might allow you to work your way out of the hole. Riding on the snow is one of the most enjoyable things in the world, but there are dangers that you should be well aware of. Tree wells are one of those dangers. But it is a danger that can be mitigated. Stay attuned to your location, surroundings and partners. At the end of the day, awareness is the key to survival… ANW

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The Winter Light By David Inscho

The long nights of the season make light, all light, precious. So when the winter sun shines, the moon glows, or stars shimmer, Cascadians trade rain slickers for puffy down coats and head to the hills for some seasonal magic in the great outdoors. There, shadows sprawl boldly across winterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s canvas, and sunshine is sharpened into points of color by flakes of snow and delicate ice, adding texture and interest to an otherwise spare landscape of the senses. White dominates: water is no longer flowing, and even smells are locked away in the freezer until the spring thaw. When the beauty seekers are sufficiently dazzled, they shiver, remembering the cold, and return home, carrying with them a glow carefully smuggled back for the long winter nights yet to come. Visit AdventuresNW.com to view an extended gallery of David Inschoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s photography.

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Clockwise from above: The Art of Single Pane; Park Butte; Colfax Peak; Bagley Creek; Mt. Larrabee & Border Peaks; Hip Deep; Tomyhoi Peak. Middle photo: North Wind

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Ten Great Winter Hikes in Whatcom County

Story by Craig Romano

Photos by Alan Fritzberg

Waterfall, Chuckanut Mountain

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inter has descended upon us. Skyline Divide, Yellow Aster Butte, and all of your other favorite high country romps are now— thanks to a thick shroud of snow—pretty much off-limits until next summer. But there’s no need to put away your hiking shoes. There are scores of low country hikes that for the most part remain snow-free all year long. And many of these trails offer stunning views, excellent wildlife viewing—and an added bonus of solitude in these crowdfree winter months. Here are 10 of my favorite places to hit the trail in Whatcom County when the high country is blanketed white.

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Lilly Point

1. Lily Point Marine Park Whatcom County Parks Point Roberts Roundtrip: 1.6 miles Elevation Gain: 220 feet The crown jewel of the exclave of Point Roberts, Lily Point encompasses nearly 250 acres of mature forest, extensive tidal flats and impressive high bluffs. While Lily Point is the largest natural tract on Point Roberts, it wasn’t always so. From 1884 to 1917 the Alaska Packers Association (APA) operated a large salmon cannery here. All that remains of it today are barnacled pilings and scattered rusting debris. Thank the Nature Conservancy, Whatcom Land Trust, and various state agencies and concerned locals for preserving it. Hike stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.

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from lofty bluff tops to secluded beaches and savor stunning views across Boundary Bay to Mount Baker. And count the eagles along the way—there are more here than on a Philadelphia football franchise’s active roster.

2. Baker Preserve Lummi Island Heritage Trust Lummi Island Roundtrip: 3.6 miles Elevation Gain: 1030 feet Note: dogs prohibited; all visitors must sign register; group size limited to six.

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Visible from far and wide around the Salish Sea, 1,665 foot Lummi Peak is one of the highest summits in the San Juan Islands. Thanks to the Lummi Island Heritage Trust’s Baker Preserve, you can now hike up this prominent landmark. Wind up steep slopes beneath a cloak of greenery to a series of high ledges. Watch eagles, hawks, and vultures ride thermals and enjoy eagleeye viewing of the islands and the Salish

Sea sparkling below. Pick out Sinclair, Cypress, Orcas, Clark, Matia, Sucia, Patos and Saturna islands. You can take in views of a few frosty Canadian north shore summits, too.

3. Semiahmoo Spit Whatcom County Parks Blaine Roundtrip: 2.0 miles Elevation Gain: none Your choice—a paved trail along Drayton Harbor sporting breathtaking views of Mount Baker; or a sandy and rocky beach along Boundary Bay granting glimpses of snowy British Columbia peaks hovering over White Rock and South Surrey. The bird watching is exceptional on both sides of the narrow spit. And there are plenty of historical points of interest, too. The Semiahmoo Spit was once home to another massive APA cannery, the largest cannery in the country. At the far end of the spit, where a resort now sits, you can roam around checking

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Dunlin at Semiahmoo

out some of the remaining APA buildings and structures from the cannery days. Make a loop on this protruding piece of land just south of the international border and enjoy all of its charms.

4. Hertz Trail-Lake Whatcom Park Whatcom County Parks Roundtrip: 6.2 miles Elevation Gain: 60 feet

Follow an old logging railroad bed along the semiwild northern shore of massive Lake Whatcom, one of the largest natural lakes in the state. The shores of this lake once bustled with townships, mills, and mines. Now homes dot much of its southern shore, while park lands protect the lakeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s northeastern stretch. The Hertz Trail utilizes a near-level rail bank hugging the forested shore of this glacial-trough lake. Enjoy waterfalls and quiet beaches along the way as well as old-growth forest groves, shoreline ledges and a couple of covered bridges. This hike is especially tranquil in winter when motor boats are absent.

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5. Stimpson Family Nature Reserve

6. Chuckanut Ridge

Whatcom County Parks Roundtrip: 4.4 miles Elevation Gain: 350 feet Note: dogs prohibited.

Whatcom County Parks and Washington State Parks Chuckanut Mountains Roundtrip: 10.8 miles Elevation Gain: 2000 feet

The Stimpson Family Nature Reserve encompasses more than 350 A long rugged spine of gnarled acres of mature forest and two wildlifefirs and sandstone ledges, Chuckanut rich wetlands on a ridge above Lake Whatcom. The trails within the reserve are a real treat to hike, thanks to master trail builder Russ Pfeiffer-Hoyt and the Whatcom Land Trust. Wander through groves of towering trees including some that are more than 400 years old. Dart through and around dark ravines; and meander alongside placid pools of water. At Geneva Pond, take a break on a granite bench and admire the surrounding tall timber reflecting in its Chuckanut Ridge Trail peaceful waters.

Ridge offers challenging hiking and sweeping views. Follow the up and down ridge clambering over steep knobs, stopping along the way to catch your breath and savor the scenery. Enjoy excellent views of Bellingham nestled below against a northern backdrop of jagged BC peaks. And be wooed by giant snow cone Mount Baker hovering on the eastern horizon. Start from the North Chuckanut Trailhead following several trails to the Chuckanut Ridge Trail. Then let the fun begin. Wind beneath ledges and around boulders and steeply climb. Reach the first of several excellent viewpoints and gawk. Go farther if you like, on an up-and-down, at times rough-and-tumble trail all the way to Cleator Road.

The art of nature

eARTh Reflections

Scott Kadach’aakú Jensen & Courtney Tlaxaneís Lipson There is a space humans carry within themselves…of peace, calm, knowledge and awareness. We manifest that inner space here at our home, nurturing with food, warmth, conversation and art. We follow the seasons, harvest food in our garden and in the wild; we connect to the land and care for how it is treated. Reflecting this life provides the inspiration behind the art that we do. We hold knowledge and were given gifts, knowing there is a responsibility that comes with those embers. While Scott is knowledgeable in formline and carving, Courtney understands color and texture; we both have an innate sense of storytelling with a sensitivity to the history behind the stories. Our Tlingit, Haida, Lummi and Aleut family and friends have helped enrich our ability to do this, and we are grateful for their guidance and input. There is no greater joy than seeing the work of our hearts and hands open up that small space within a person; whether it is food, art, regalia, or clothing, the very detail in the work asks us to hold space and contemplate. The collaborative work of Scott Jensen & Courtney Lipson is currently featured at the Stonington Gallery, 125 South Jackson Street in Seattle. More info: stoningtongallery.com

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Clockwise from top left: Reflection Box; Bear Maskette; She Beckons (detail); Praising the Gifts; Gunakadeit Micromosaic; Moonlight on the Nooksack; Gunakadeit

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7. Fragrance Lake

8. Cedar and Pine Lakes

Washington State Parks Chuckanut Mountains Roundtrip: 4.4 miles Elevation Gain: 1050 feet Note: Discover Pass required

Whatcom County Parks Chuckanut Mountains Roundtrip: 5.2 miles Elevation Gain: 1625 feet

Perhaps the most popular spot in the Chuckanut Mountains, Fragrance Fragrance Lake Lake sees legions of hikers and runners old and young and of all shapes and abilities. Follow a sometimes steep foot traffic only trail through groves of big old growth trees to the small placid lake—the gem of 2600-acre Larrabee State Park. Then amble around it, passing babbling

brooks, big cedars and steep sandstone ledges. On the way up, be sure to take the side trip to a scenic madronaframed lookout for views across a glistening Samish Bay dotted with emerald islands.

Don’t let the short distance to these two little lakes tucked high on Chuckanut Mountain fool you. You’ll get a good workout getting to them thanks to the steep initial approach. But once you conquer that climb, enjoy exploring the small lakes and the knob above them where views are achieved. The entire way to the lakes is through deep unbroken forest. The trail, an old skid road, passes rushing creeks, pocket wetlands and a few patches of big old trees. And be sure

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to take the Cedar Lake Overlook Trail to a precipitous ledge for a good view of Mount Baker and Lookout Mountain.

9. Horseshoe Bend Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest Mount Baker Highway Roundtrip: 3.0 miles Elevation Gain: 300 feet A gentle trail along a raging river, Horseshoe Bend is perfect for evening and early morning strolls. Perfect too, for introducing children to the wonders of nature. Perfect for stretching your legs out on the way to Heather Meadows. Perfect for watching diving dippers. And perfect for staring into tumultuous rapids. But, a terrible place for carrying on a conversation. The river’s roar is deafening as it plunges over boulders and ledges and squeezes through chasms. But its allure is oh-so-intoxicating.

10. Baker Lake Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest

Baker Lake Up to 13.2 miles one way Elevation Gain: up to 1200 feet Note: Northwest Forest Pass or Interagency pass required. Created in 1959 by construction of the Upper Baker River Dam, Baker Lake is the byproduct of flood control and our propensity for flicking on the lights. The lake is drawn down during the winter months revealing a muddy bed of stumps. Not very pretty. But the lake is not the attraction of this hike. The wild Baker River flowing into it; cascading tributaries feeding it; groves of old-growth giants gracing it; views of Mounts Baker and Shuksan towering above it; and a cool little suspension bridge are the draws of this hike. The Baker Lake Trail is also part of the long distance Pacific Northwest Trail. Do an easy out and back hike from either the lake trail’s northern or southern trailhead—or arrange for a shuttle and do a grand 13.2 mile one way trek. ANW

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Skiing the

at Snoqualmie Pass

Hyak Lake

ocated 50 miles east of Seattle on Interstate 90, Snoqualmie Pass is a popular jumping-off point for cross-country skiers. The three Washington State Parks-administered Sno-Parks found along Interstate 90 just east of the pass offer up access to some of the best nordic ski trails in the Northwest. Whether you’re seeking groomed skate tracks or backcountry bliss, Snoqualmie Pass delivers all winter long. Here’s a guide to get you gliding:

Hyak Sno-Park Pulling off the highway at exit 54 into the Hyak Sno-Park, you’ll find—in addition to plush heated bathrooms—an impressively groomed sledding hill. But let’s face it, you didn’t 36

The heartbeat of Cascadia

come here for the sledding. Instead, you came here to glide along the John Wayne Pioneer Trail (JWPT) reached via a five-minute walk from the parking lot. Cruising down either the groomed skate track or classic lines, you’ll cover only a small segment of the lengthy JWPT, one of the largest rail-to-trail conversions in the country, spanning over 250 miles to the Idaho border on what was once the Milwaukee Road Rail Line. While the fast, flat track and even grade of this old railroad line is reason enough to give thanks, it is the wide views that will make it worth revisiting. Paralleling Keechelus Lake and I-90, the Interstate is soon out of earshot and the brimming peaks of the winter-clad Cascade Mountains sing quite a different song.

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Sno-Parks Story and photos by Brad Lane

Crystal Springs Sno-Park You can ski the 7.6 miles of the JWPT from Hyak to reach Crystal Springs Sno-Park, or you can take Exit 62 off the Interstate. Unlike Hyak, which is a Non-Motorized Sno-Park, Crystal Springs caters to all winter enthusiasts. Every groomed snowmobile trail is available to skiers or snowshoers, and there are a lot to choose from at Crystal Springs, but if you want to experience some winter solitude, look no further than the nonmotorized Erling Stordahl Trail System. Located near the parking area, the network of trails was created by a local stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.

chapter of the Sons of Norway, which is the same organization that operates the nearby, members-only Trollhaugen Lodge. The trail system is open to the public, and offers nearly five miles of groomed track plus additional signed routes, all navigating through dense Pacific Northwest forest. If you’re up for the challenge, the Roller Coaster Loop of the Erling Stordahl trail lives up to its name.

Cabin Creek Sno-Park Cabin Creek Sno-Park can be found just one exit east of Crystal Springs

(exit 63), and the two are connected by a marked snow trail. With 9.7 miles of rewarding terrain, including the formidable Mt. Ozbaldy Loop, it’s the kind of high-quality skiing that beckons skinnyski aficionados. The Kongsberger Ski Club maintains every mile of this curvy course, and also hosts monthly races as well as a weekly “Totally Dark Cross Country Ski Racing Series” every Wednesday night starting in January. More information can be found at Kongsbergers.org Along the Interstate 90 corridor, Gold Creek and Lake Easton Sno-Parks The heartbeat of Cascadia

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also offer quality winter opportunities, and Kachess and Salmon La Sac are located just a short distance north of the area. The Sno-Parks at Snoqualmie Pass can keep you exploring all winter long, and there are hundreds more to choose

from. For more information on SnoPark locations, parking permit requirements and the latest grooming schedule, visit the Washington State Parks Winter Recreation page at www.parks.state. wa.us/130/winter-recreation. ANW

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The Pipiwai Trail: Paradise Found

Field Trip Adventures beyond the PNW

Story and photo by John D’Onofrio

‘Ohe’o Gulch is one of Planet Earth’s most beautiful places. Part of Haleakalā National Park on the Hawaiian island of Maui, the Gulch—formerly known as the Seven Sacred Pools (a marketing-driven name)—is located on the east (wet) side of the island. It’s a magical place, known around the world for its stunning beauty and the amazing Pīpīwai Trail provides egress into the heart of the Gulch. But first you have to get here. Lucky you: this means driving the 60-mile long road to Hana, a scenic drive that will take exponentially longer than you think, as you will be stopping often, mesmerized by the lush east Maui’i jungle and dramatic ocean vistas. This is not the Hawai’i of sandy beaches and high-rise hotels—the sea here is a maelstrom of towering surf and jagged lava. Just before Hana you’ll pass Wai‘anapanapa State Park, another premier beauty spot with great trails and coastal camping. Follow the winding road past Hana to the Kīpahulu District of Haleakalā National Park. There is excellent walk-in camping here too. The Pīpīwai trail up the Gulch begins at the visitor center stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.

near the famous series of pools on the makai (ocean) side of the road. These are often crowded with tourists splashing happily in the idyllic pools. The smell of sunscreen hangs heavy in the air. If you’re planning on a dip here, check before you go: sometimes the pools are closed to swimming due to concerns about the unstable cliffs that cradle them. The trail is short— only four miles round-trip with about 800 feet of elevation gain each way— and follows the delightful Pīpīwai Stream through the jungle. Along the way, you’ll discover astounding beauty at every turn: epic waterfalls, a gargantuan banyan tree, tree ferns that tower overhead—a world of vivid, vibrant green. The bamboo forest is musical, as the gamelan wind blows the clacking stalks in a soft soundtrack befitting shadow puppet theatre. The trail ends in a remarkable green amphitheatre containing 400-foot high Waimoku Falls. To access the amphitheatre you’ll need to cross a sometimes rambunctious stream. If the water is high, be content with the view from here: it’s one that will linger in your memory all winter long, truly a vision of tropical paradise. ANW race | play | experience

g n i k i B n i a t n u Mo ggett e L a i c i l A y Story b Deegan n a n n e r B Photos by

ountain biking is more popular than it’s ever been. For some, it’s a way to explore new places, access mountain lakes and enjoy breathtaking scenery. For others, it’s a way to make friends or get outside after work. And for a few, it’s a competitive hobby or even a career. The sport has grown exponentially in recent years with the development of mountain bike-specific trails, new formats of racing, organized group rides and youth bike programs. If you’re just getting into the sport, there are resources like bike shops and riding groups to help you learn. Mountain biking can help you push your boundaries in ways you’ve never experienced before, and will take you outside your comfort zone both physically and mentally. It will give you a new appreciation for the magnificent wild spaces that surround us and is an exhilarating way to improve your fitness, your skill set…and your attitude. Whether you are trying mountain biking for the first time or are a seasoned rider looking to refine your skills, you can always improve. This article is written mostly for beginners, but the skills outlined here are important for riders of all levels to work on. Take your trail riding up a few notches using these tips.

Part One: The Foundation Learning an athletic stance is essential. It will help you feel comfortable maneuvering your bike underneath you and is the foundation for tackling rocks, roots, corners and more. The better your stance, the more stability you will have on the bike, and the more confidence you will have to progress in the future. 40

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•

Level your pedals, as if they’re at nine and three on a clock, with your weight pushing down through the pedals. Make a conscious effort to weight your feet.

•

Keep your knees relaxed and away from the bike. Although it may be tempting at first, be sure not to pinch the bike between your legs. Keep your knees over your feet or slightly farther apart, giving yourself space to lean your bike beneath you. Eventually, as you become more comfortable on the trails, you will be able to move your bike and body independently, shifting your weight fluidly over the bike.

•

Keep your hips directly over the bike. On steep descents, shift your weight back by pushing your hips over your rear tire. To pedal up a short, steep climb, move your weight forward.

•

Bend your elbows and move them out, away from your body. Your elbows and knees can act as extra suspension.

•

Loosen your grip on the handlebars. It’s easy to tense up, making it harder to react to the trail and tiring you out quickly. Check your grip while you’re riding by opening your hands briefly once in a while.

•

Always look ahead down the trail so you’re prepared for what’s next. Your bike will follow your eyes. To avoid an obstacle, look past it. Whether you’re ascending, descending, cornering or hitting jumps, looking ahead is one of the most important riding habits.

•

Practice consciously relaxing while riding. Look up, take a deep breath and feel your hands, elbows and knees to make sure you aren’t too tense.

Part Two: Braking Before you pick up speed, it’s important to know how to slow back down. Practice braking in the parking lot and on easy trails until you have it down. Using your brakes effectively should be second nature before you start tackling difficult terrain. •

Keep both your index fingers on your brakes, ready to respond to the trail. Most modern mountain bike brakes only require one finger to brake, but some older brakes take two. Try to use only your index fingers, but experiment to learn what works best for you and your bike.

• On most bikes in the U.S., the right brake lever controls the rear brake and the left lever controls the front brake. The front brake has more stopping power than the rear one, but it should be used with caution. Too much front brake can send you flying over your handlebars, and too much rear brake will cause you to skid rather than stop. Play with different combinations of rear and front brake. Most riders use 40 to 50 percent front brake and 50 to 60 percent rear brake. stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.

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•

Anticipate what’s next. Brake before trail features and turns, not during them. Again, look ahead. When you brake, shift yourself back and drop your weight into your heels to stay over your bike.

Part Three: Cornering Once you start to gain momentum, corning is a skill that will come into play on every trail you ride. As with most of these skills, practice will help more than anything else, but using these tips can help you eliminate some trial-and-error. •

Look forward through the exit of the turn. Your bike and body will follow where you look, putting your body in the proper position and allowing you to prepare early for the trail ahead.

•

Your hips drive the turn—let your body point where you are looking (ahead, hopefully). Your bike will follow. Enter the turn wide, allowing you to smooth out the corner, carry speed all the way through the turn and exit faster. Don’t make the turn tighter than it already is by cutting into the

entrance of the turn. •

Let off the brakes through the corner. Your tires have more traction when they are rolling, not locked up. You should have done most of your braking before the turn, because you were looking ahead and well-prepared.

•

Lean your bike, not your body. If your knees and elbows are relaxed, you should be able to lean your bike underneath you while staying balanced directly over the bike, keeping your outside pedal weighted. • As you practice, focus on smoothness rather than speed. If you develop strong technique and learn fluidity, speed will come naturally.

Part Four: Climbing No matter the situation, the first rule of mountain biking is to look ahead.

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• Learn to shift your bodyweight around while pedaling. Unweight your front tire to roll it up over rocks and roots in the trail. Shift your weight back slightly if the rear tire starts to lose traction. Always look ahead up the hill.

to ride uphill to reach the fun-filled descents. Climbing is a chance to talk with your friends, enjoy the scenery at a slower pace, or race to the top and relish the workout. •

•

Sit down for most pedaling, especially for longer climbs. This will allow you to save energy and get into a pedaling rhythm on the ascent.

• On flat and uphill technical trails, momentum is your friend. Rocks and roots are much easier to roll over with a bit of speed.

• Shift early, before the climb, Stand up to pedal up Standing up to climb can be useful when you need a quick burst of power, but when there isn’t much strain on short, steep climbs it’s unsustainable for long climbs. the chain. Again— anticipaor during descents. tion is everything. Standing gives you more power for short bursts of pedaling but is difficult to sustain. • Remember to stay fueled and hydrated. A big climb can be Find a comfortable gear. If your gear is too low, you will spin out. If your gear is too high, you’ll be inefficient. In general, choose a fairly low gear with a high cadence, but experiment to find what gears work for different grades and types of terrain. Learn to choose smooth lines, especially on technical climbs.

exhausting, so be prepared to take care of yourself physically.

Part Five: Stepping it up For me, the most magical part of mountain biking is seeing my own progress. No matter how long you’ve been riding or what type of trail you like, you can always build on the fundamentals and improve yourself in whatever way is important

Vital Signs Avoiding the Chill: Winter Eating for a Warm and Healthy Season By Sarah Laing, B.Sc. Nutrition

As I sit here with my usual green tea medley, we are gracefully being anointed with our first snowflakes of the season and I am reminded of the warm and toasty smells and ceremonial meals to come. With Thanksgiving right around the corner and ski hills beckoning, keeping a close eye on maintaining a healthy diet is just as important as ever. Besides fueling for the colder weather, making sure you are getting your daily dose of essential nutrients such as healthy fats, lean proteins, vitamins and minerals is essential for keeping you going during busy,

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to you. You can improve your cornering speed, try a few jumps, or ride a rock garden that looked impossible when you first started biking. •

Practice rolling over obstacles like rocks and roots. Shifting your weight forward and back will help you learn to unweight your wheels and navigate technical trails smoothly.

•

Develop skills like wheelies, manuals and bunny hops. They will improve your bike handling, which will make you faster and more controlled out on the trails. Plus, it’s easy to practice flatland skills almost anywhere: on flat grassy areas, on dirt road climbs or in your driveway.

•

your progression. Aggressive tires and a dropper seatpost can give you huge benefits for a relatively low cost. Knobby tires can give you the traction and confidence to corner faster and feel secure in loose or wet conditions, and a dropper post lets you ad-

give yourself the freedom to move around over your bike. •

Try new things. Jumps, drops and other trail features will help you refine your skills. Use the same fundamental techniques that you’ve already learned: ride in a stable position, stay balanced and look ahead. Start small and work up gradually. • Ride with other people. Not only will your riding buddies be good company, but you will learn from them and they will push you to become better.

Part Six: Safety and stewardship Keep mountain biking fun by keeping yourself out of trouble. Stay safe by wearing the right protective gear and riding responsibly so that you and others can continue to enjoy the sport.

Learning to jump your bike is an exciting way to test your limits. Start small and work your way up.

Consider your bike setup. As you improve as a rider, making some changes to your bike can help with

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• Always wear a helmet. Gloves are useful too, as they will protect your hands when you fall. Knee pads are also worth considering, especially if you plan on riding jumps and aggressive trails. • Learn to maintain your bike. Check your tire pressure before you ride, and clean and lubricate your chain regularly. Make a point of learning how your bike works so you can know when something is wrong and how to fix it. • Put together a basic repair kit to carry with you when you ride. I usually carry a tube, tire levers, a mini pump, tire plugs, a multi-tool and an extra chain link. I typically also bring something to eat and a little extra water. • Learn the trail rules. Descending riders yield to climbing riders on almost all trails, and on most multi-use trails, mountain bikers yield to all other trail users. Know the rules for your local trails and respect them. Don’t ride trails when they are closed or muddy and be friendly to others on the trails. Being considerate helps mountain bikers gain more trail access (and also helps you be a decent person). • Connect with people at local bike shops and trail advocacy groups. These

people can become your friends and can also be great resources for mechanical questions, trail advice and any other bike-related situations. • Participate in trail work days and do your part to give back to the biking community. Most trail systems have regular work days scheduled, and helping to build and maintain your trail system is fun, helps you meet other riders and gives you a greater appreciation for everything that goes into your trails. As with almost anything, the more time you spend biking, the more you will learn what works for you. Practice and experiment. Simply riding your bike will improve your skills and your day. ANW

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Cascadia Gear:

Gear Spotlight:

DPS Wailer 112: Award-Winning for a Reason

Essentials for your next Adventure STABILicers ™ Hike Macro When it comes to traction devices for your feet, the options are plentiful. The Hike Macro ice cleats from Stabil offer 1/2-inch (replaceable!) cleats combined with a unique TPE (Thermoplastic elastomer) binding system that covers the entire bottom of the boot and is tough yet flexible and stretchable, even at sub-zero temperatures, making it easy to put them on and take them off. I put them to the test in the Canadian Rockies on high routes that offered a mix of snow, ice and rock and they performed flawlessly. And I love the fact that you can buy replacement cleats—a non-disposable product: what a concept! More info: stabilgear.com

Rhino-Rack 572 Ski Carrier Rhino-Rack has been making car-top rack systems and cargo carriers for 25 years. Based in Australia, the Rhino-Rack name is slowly becoming better known in North America, thanks to their no-nonsense everything-proof products. Their 572 Ski Carrier attaches to all Rhino Rack crossbars (and most other brands as well), holds two sets of skis (or one snowboard) and features an easy release mechanism designed for gloved hands. It’s water- and rust-proof, mold resistant, and backed by their five-year warranty. One small gripe: A special allen wrench (included) is required to put them on and take them off. More info: rhinorack.com

The North Face Denali 2 Fleece Jacket I love a thick, cushy fleece jacket. There’s just something about the coziness, the plushness of a good fleece. The Denali 2 jacket from The North Face® really delivers in the coziness and warmth department. It’s an interesting combination of the new and the classic—It’s certainly old school in that it reflects the construction of the original Denali jacket from the 80’s (and that’s a good thing) but it’s cutting edge in that 85% of its Polartec 300 is recycled from plastic bottles. Lots of pockets. It’s not light (25 ounces) but it’s thick, tough and really, really warm. More info: thenorthface.com

Toad & Co. Airvoyant Puff Jacket The woman’s Airvoyant Puff Jacket from Toad & Co. offers a wealth of features in a lightweight package. Made of recycled bluesign® approved fabric and blown-in poly insulation, it provides eco-friendly warmth along with a DWR (Durable Water Repellent) coating and wind-proof comfort. The longer length in the back (and a drawcord hem) keeps your bottom toasty on cold mornings. And the three-piece hood makes it an excellent choice for all-day adventures in winter weather. Order a size larger to accommodate layering. More info: toadandco.com

The heartbeat of Cascadia

by Chris Gerston It was mind-boggling.

I was at a ski demo last year and I got off the Blizzard Brahma (88mm carving ski, think sports car on piste) and immediately got onto the new DPS Wailer 112 Alchemist to find that they actually felt really similar on the packed powder conditions. How in the world does a 112 powder ski feel similar to an 88 waisted carving ski? Here’s the deal. Although DPS skis have been very widely accepted as a backcountry brand, they actually started with more dedicated alpine skiers in mind. Some of their first skis were designed for carving ice on New England groomers with skis in the 80mm range. The other half of their design mentality came from designing fat skis (120+mm waist) for Alaska heli trips. When 2017 Wailer 112 they finally realized that most people want something in Alchemist $1299 between, they designed the Wailer 112, and it’s been their most publicized and award-winning ski ever since. At Backcountry Essentials, we’ve skied and sold the Wailer 112’s for years, through their various iterations of carbon construction. This year’s Wailer 112 Alchemist made me a believer in it as a ski that is equally at home inbounds and touring. If you are skiing more inbounds that out, than the Wailer 112 2017 Wailer 112 Foundation, $799 Foundation (same shape, but less carbon, and more fiberglass in the construction) is definitely worth looking at for a slightly heavier ski (approximately 10 oz per ski) and a damper ride. Chris Gerston owns Backcountry Essentials, an outdoor specialty shop located at 214 W. Holly in Bellingham, WA. Check out more of Chris’ gear reviews at AdventuresNW.com Sponsored review

Luci Outdoor 2.0/Pro Solar Lantern I’ve been a fan of Luci® Lights from MPOWERD™ for some time now. These ingenious inflatable lanterns are solar powered and provide illumination around camp while weighing almost nothing. The new Luci Outdoor 2.0/Pro takes this innovative concept one step further by virtue of its built-in USB port and brighter light. You can charge it via the solar panel, which takes about 14 hours for a full charge or via the USB port (two hours). Once charged, it provides up to 50 hours of cool white light (on the low setting), sufficient for reading, writing or doing the NY Times crossword puzzle. It’s heavier than previous models - the 2.0/Pro weighs in at 5.5. ounces, but for car camping or short backpack trips, it’s wonderful. You can also use the USB port to charge up your cell phone. It’s rugged, waterproof and incorporates straps that facilitate hanging. More info: mpowerd.com

Join us for the

Adventure of a Lifetime ADVENTURES NW>>> 2018 Alaska Photography Small Boat Cruises Take your photography to the next level

• May 20- 27: Glacier Bay • May 30 - June 6: Inside Passage (Juneau to Petersburg)

Learn more: northwestnavigation.com

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26 November - 30 May 2018

NOVEMBER >>>

race I play I experience CALENDAR

Sunday, 26 November RUN/WALK Amica Insurance Seattle Marathon––Memorial Stadium, 7:15 am – 12:00 pm. Join us for Seattle’s Original Hometown Marathon!

Glacier Bay, Alaska aboard the M/V David B. Take your photography to the next level in one of the most beautiful – and photogenic – places on Earth! Small group size guarantees personalized instruction from teachers Alan Sanders & John D’Onofrio. More info: www.northwestnavigation.com

Sunday, 27 May

DECEMBER >>> Saturday, 2 December SPECIAL Deception Pass Dash Paddle Race––Deception Pass State Park (Bowman Bay), 11:00 am – 5:00 pm. Challenging 6-mile paddle through Deception Pass! Open to human-powered vessels; kayaks, canoes, shells, & SUPs.

SPECIAL Ski to Sea––Mt. Baker to Bellingham Bay, 7:30 am – 7:00 pm. Ski to Sea is the original multisport relay race, from Mt. Baker to Bellingham Bay. skitosea.com Visit AdventuresNW.com for complete listings of outdoor events through 2018

JANUARY 2018 >>> Monday, 1 January RUN/WALK Resolution Run & Padden Polar Dip––Lake Padden,11:00 am – 12:30 pm. Wet costumed fun! 11 a.m. run/walk, High Noon Dip

When You Choose Boundary, You Choose Community

Monday, 15 January RUN/WALK Trailblazers Winter Session––Whatcom County Elementary Schools, 2:30 pm – 4:30 pm. Trail running for boys and girls in 2nd – 5th grade. whatcomymca.org

FEBRUARY 2018 >>> Friday-Sunday, 9-11 February SNOW Mt. Baker Legendary Banked Slalom––Mt. Baker Ski Area, February 9-11. The legend continues! Join the quest for the duct tape trophy … mtbaker.us

Spend Your Holidays

in the heart of it all

Friday, 23 February SPECIAL Washington Outdoor Recreation Summit––Bellingham Technical College, 9:00 am – 5:00 pm. Building on momentum at the state and national level we are bringing Recreation Industry Professionals – retailers, manufacturers, event & race promoters, policy makers and stewardship organizations – together to explore and share ways to grow and promote Washington State’s flourishing recreation economy.

38th Annual

Over 100 local artists November 17 to December 24, 2017

Celebrate the season Saturday, 24 February SPECIAL Recreation Northwest EXPO–– Bellingham Cruise Terminal, 11:00 am – 5:00 pm. Bring your friends and family to meet face to face with Apparel and Gear Manufacturers, Retailers, Outfitters, Outdoor Media, Activity Clubs, Stewardship Organizations and representatives from your favorite local recreation events and races. Explore Washington’s outdoor recreation opportunities to find new ways to get outside and play.

Where 4145 Meridian Street, Bellingham. In the same location as last year — next to the Burlington Store Open 7 days a week, 10am – 7pm Closed Thanksgiving Day and at 3 pm on December 24 Saturday and Sunday live music, free kids activities and more! Information alliedarts.org or 360.676.8548

MAY 2018 >>> Sunday-Sunday, 20-27 May SPECIAL Glacier Bay Photography Cruise–– M/V David B, May 20 – May 27. Join us for a week-long Adventures NW photography cruise and workshop in

stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.

shop early. shop often. shop local.

race | play | experience

30 May 2018 (cont.) - 26 August 2018 Wednesday-Wednesday, 30 May - 6 June SPECIAL Alaska Inside Passage Photography Cruise––M/V David B, May 30 – Jun 6. Join us for a week-long Adventures NW photography cruise and workshop in Alaska’s beautiful Inside Passage. This trip aboard the M/V David B will begin in Juneau and end in Petersberg, Alaska and feature individualized photography instruction by Alan Sanders & John D’Onofrio. The David B offers an opportunity to get close to spectacular scenery, abundant wildlife and calving glaciers. More info: www.northwestnavigation.com

JUNE 2018 >>>

JULY 2018 >>> Saturday, 14 July RUN/WALK Lake Whatcom Triatholon––Bloedel Donovan Park. Olympic-Distance: Tranquil lake+rolling country road+trail through forested waterfall park=How Bellingham does Olympic! 7 am – 2pm lakewhatcomtriathlon.com

Saturday, 21 July CYCLING Tour de Whatcom–– Boundary Bay Brewery, 7:30 am – 5:00 pm. Enjoy all the Northwest has to offer in one beautiful ride! Rides from 22-100 miles. tourdewhatcom.com

AUGUST 2018 >>>

Sunday, 17 June

Sunday, 26 August

RUN/WALK Edge to Edge Marathon––Half &10k on the spectacular Wild Pacific Trail, Ucluelet, BC 9am edgetoedgemarathon.com

CYCLING Chuckanut Classic–– Boundary Bay Brewery, 7:30 am. 25-,38-,62-,or 100-mile rides. chuckanutclassic.org

Visit AdventuresNW.com for complete listings of outdoor events throughout 2018

race | play | experience

>>> VIew or download even MORE Race|Play|Experience

15 September

SEPTEMBER 2018 >>> Saturday, 15 September SPECIAL Bellingham Traverse– –Boundary Bay Brewery, 12:00 pm – 5:00 pm. Get Hooked on the Bellingham Traverse, a fun relay race that celebrates the journey of wild

salmon. Families, friends and local companies form Chinook (solo), Coho (tandem) and CHUM (relay teams) to run, bike and paddle through Bellingham’s scenic parks, winding trails and open waterways. ANW

FIND Adventures NW is available free at hundreds of locations region-wide: throughout Whatcom, Skagit, San Juan, and Island counties, at select spots in Snohomish, King, and Pierce counties, and in Leavenworth, the Methow Valley, Spokane, and Wenatchee. The magazine is also available at REI locations across Washington and Oregon as well as at numerous locations in the Vancouver, BC metro area, at races and events, at area visitor centers. SUBSCRIBE Receive Adventures NW via mail anywhere in the US or Canada. Visit AdventuresNW.com/subscribe for subscription info. ADVERTISE Let Adventures NW magazine help you reach a diverse, receptive audience throughout the Pacific Northwest, and be part of one of the most valued and engaging publications in the region. Info is at AdventuresNW.com/advertise or by writing to ads @ AdventuresNW.com. CONTRIBUTE Adventures NW welcomes original article queries—including feature stories, expert advice, photo essays, the Next Adventure shot, etc. For information: AdventuresNW.com/contribute. EVENTS Have your outdoor-related event, race or public outing listed in the quarterly Race|Play|Experience calendar and in our comprehensive on-line version. Visit AdventuresNW.com/submit-your-event to post events or contact ads @ AdventuresNW.com for details.

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Adventure

Homeward Bound photo by Ham Hayes Alaska’s Chilkat Bald Eagle Preserve has the largest concentration of Bald Eagles on Earth. The Chilkat River, which remains unfrozen in the autumn and winter—and teeming with salmon—attracts thousands of these magnificient birds annually. On a November photoshoot, we endured three days of snow and rain. The eagles, inactive, seemed dampened by the elements. On the fourth day the weather broke, offering soft light penetrating the mountain mists and the eagles came out to play. Nature provided one final image which captured the heart of our experience—homeward bound swans in fading light.

The heartbeat of Cascadia

Should I follow my head, or my heart? For some of life’s questions, you’re not alone.

the economy is strong, you’re not alone. 86% of investors surveyed for our latest UBS Investor Watch say the crisis still affects how they think about money. How can you overcome this inner struggle? 98% of investors tell us a comprehensive market. Your UBS Financial Advisor can help. David J. Mauro Sr Vice President--Wealth Mgmt 360-714-2550 david.mauro@ubs.com

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