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WINTER 2018/19
WINTER IN THE METHOW VALLEY FAT BIKING NORDIC SKIING RENDEZVOUS HUTS WINTHROP AFTER DARK
SURVIVING THE ORCAS 100 GREAT WINTER HIKES BACKCOUNTRY GRADUATION THE PROBLEM WITH DRONES >>> EXTENSIVE OUTDOOR EVENTS CALENDAR INSIDE
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The heartbeat of Cascadia
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INSPIRATIONS
IN THIS ISSUE
Cross Country Nirvana Skiing in Washington’s Methow Valley
Brian Sweet
10
Fat Bike the Methow
Joseph Brown
16
Something for Everyone Old Fashioned Fun in the Methow
Brian Sweet
20
Kevin Van Bueren
22 26 28
Where to Ski (and Eat) in the Methow Valley
The Art of the Landscape Bruce W Heinemann Libations of the Methow John Sinclair Sarah Finger
A Deeply Etched Love for Local Landscapes
Nick Belcaster
30
Surviving the Orcas Island 100
Jade de la Rosa
Graduation Day
Mark Harfenist
34 40 44
The Problem with Drones Nick Belcaster “Adventure is not outside man; it is within. ” - David Grayson
Commitment 7 Out & About 8 3 Great Hikes ... for Winter 9 eARTh: The Art of Nature 14 Bright Lines 24 Outside In 32 Vital Signs 42 Field Trip: Badwater 46 Cascadia Gear 47 Race | Play | Experience Calendar 48 Next Adventure 50
stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.
Photo by John D’Onofrio
DESTINATIONS
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CONTRIBUTORS Nick Belcaster is an adventure journalist who cut his teeth for the big three— hiking, climbing and splitboarding—on the jagged wave of rock that is the North Cascades. Residing in Bellingham, WA, he contributes to local and national publications and tries to stay out of trouble in the mountains. Joseph Brown is a longtime resident of the Methow Valley and lover of the outdoors. When not out adventuring, he serves on the boards of the Evergreen Mountain Bike Alliance and Methow Valley Nordic Ski Educational Foundation (MVNSEF). He is co-owner of Methow Cycle & Sport and co-founder of Methow Fatbike. Laurie Clarke lives in the Pacific Northwest and is passionate about
Volume 13. Issue 4 anything beautiful: her family and friends, and all that Mother Nature throws at her.
Long ago, Kathy and Craig Copeland rearranged their lives to make hiking the white-hot molten core of their shared identity. They built their livelihood on a unique ability to express the wonder, joy, and exhilaration they feel in wild places. They’re now Canada’s most prolific hiking-and-camping guidebook authors. Visit hikingcamping.com to see their titles and peruse their blog. Jade de la Rosa is a freelance writer and trail runner based in Bellingham, WA. She holds an MFA in Writing and is at work on her first historical fic-
tion novel. Follow her adventures running, racing, and exploring the Pacific Northwest at www.jadedelarosa.com Mark Harfenist was born and raised in New York. After 40 years in places with insufficient snowfall, he settled at last in Bellingham, WA., where he dabbles in mountain biking, motorcycling, backcountry skiing, kayaking and world travel. In his spare time, he works as a family therapist and mental health counselor. Bruce W. Heinemann is a photographer, writer, publisher and speaker living in Anacortes. His eighth book, Washington: The Art of The Landscape can be viewed and preordered at www.theartofnaturegallery.com/p/ new-book. Sarah Laing is a nutritionist, author and cofounder of S&J Natural Products, which offers CBD-infused products for healthy lifestyles. She is currently writing her
A Look Ahead:
Our Spring Issue Doing Good Work for Good People Across Western WA (and beyond!) Find out more at NWLivingRE.com
NW Living/eXp Realty 2219 Rimland Dr. #301 Bellingham WA 98225 6
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Chuckanut Island Shi-Shi Beach San Josef Bay Alvord Desert Mountain Biking the Okanogan
Photo by Kevin Bradshaw
WINTER | 2018/19 second book, The Cannabinoid Diet, which focuses on phytocannabinoidbased nutritional guidelines to activate the body’s endocannabinoid system, restoring balance in the body and promoting overall health.
When not on the river, Cameron Scott teaches for Fishtrap, a literary non-profit in northeastern Oregon. When on the river, he guides for Taylor Creek Fly Shop in Basalt, CO. His work has been published most recently in High Country News and The FlyFish Journal and his second book of poems, The Book of Cold Mountain was awarded the Blue Light Book Award. If you have leftovers, he will eat them. If he has whiskey, he will share it with you. John Sinclair and his wife Beth moved from Seattle to the Methow Valley in 2003. They renovated an old farm and orchard south of Twisp, and in 2013 started making Sixknot Cider. Says John, “You come to the valley for its beauty, you stay because of the people.” Brian Sweet, along with his wife, Amy, owns Cascades Outdoor Store in downtown Winthrop. He loves to ski and really loves the Methow Valley. Kevin van Bueren grew up Nordic Skiing on un-groomed Northwest trails. He started skiing in the Methow Valley in 1990 and worked as a Nordic instructor for the legendary Don Portman and his ski shops for over 20 years. Today, Kevin is living the dream as owner/ operator of Methow Valley Ski School & Rentals. ANW
COMMITMENT
A
dventures NW is a labor of love, an expression of passion for the natural world that surrounds us here in Cascadia and for the soul-enriching benefits of outdoor recreation. We’re more captivated by life-affirming experiences than death-defying escapades.
Let that sink in. Our hope is that we can inspire you to step out of the maelstrom for a minute, or a day, or a week, to unplug and reenergize, to regain perspective among the ageless beauty of the natural world. To share the power of wilderness with those who may not yet know its solace and illumination. To become a steward and an advocate. And ultimately, to reinvigorate joy.
Now in our thirteenth year, we’re more committed than ever to a wide-ranging diversity of ways to express these experiences. Poetry, for example. We’re delighted to welcome poetry editor Roger Gilman to our staff with this issue. Roger was formerly the poetry editor for The Chicago Review. He brings an abiding love for philosophy and metaphor, two favored arrows in our quiver. We’re especially interested in the multiplicity of ways that people are changed by their experiences in the wilds—that moment of discovery when you realize that you are a part of something bigger than yourself, something without a name. Our aspiration is to inspire our readers to discover (or rediscover) this deep and timeless connection. Why? We believe that these experiences make us better people; more empathetic, more respectful, more creative. And just as importantly, connecting with the wilderness energizes us to become stewards of the land and advocates for its protection. Protection is needed. A series of reports released last month paint a bleak picture indeed: according to the Wildlife Conservation Society, seventy percent of the Earth’s entire remaining wilderness is found in only five countries: Australia, Brazil, Canada, Russia and the United States (the survey excluded Antarctica). Virtually the rest of the planet has annihilated whatever wilderness they had. And the World Wildlife Fund reveals that we have lost 60 percent of the planet’s wildlife population since 1970. Adventures NW magazine www.AdventuresNW.com
John D’Onofrio
Roger Gilman
Publisher/Editor john @ adventuresnw.com
Poetry Editor roger @ adventuresnw.com
Jason Rinne
Marian Jensen
Creative Director jason @ adventuresnw.com
Nick Belcaster Staff Writer nick @ adventuresnw.com
Ethan D’Onofrio Digital Media
ethan @ adventuresnw.com
Alan Sanders
Accounting accounting @ adventuresnw.com
Photo Illustrations
A Multimedia Performance
Distribution: Sherry Jubilo, Aaron Theisen, Dareld Chittim, Nelson Distributing, J&M Distribution, Gold Distribution Services
Adventures NW magazine is printed by Lithtex NW Printing Solutions, Bellingham, WA.
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A Passionate Meditation on Sacred Landscapes Wednesday, December 5, 6:30 p.m., Pickford Film Center, Bellingham
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Out&About
Mt. Baker Ski Area Introduces the Baker Exchange The folks at the Mt. Baker Ski Area have always done things their own way. There’s a long history of this independent streak, extending back to 1968 when Duncan Howat and his family began managing the ski area. Under their guidance, the ski area has established itself as an innovative and community-oriented operation, even as the industry as a whole has experienced relentless consolidation and become ever more “corporate” over the decades.
Nick Brandt Line of Rangers Holding the Tusks of Elephants Killed at the Hands of Man, Amboseli, from Across the Ravaged Land, 2011 Archival pigment print 44 x 78 in. Courtesy of the artist
Howat says that on the drive home following that river trip she heard the news that Stevens Pass Mountain Resort had been sold to Vail Resorts, a company listed on the New York Stock Exchange, that owns luxury resorts around the world. In September, the largest ski resort in Washington, Crystal Mountain, followed suit, selling to the Alterra Mountain Company, a Denver-based corporation that owns more than a dozen ski areas around the west.
So when Operations Manager Gwyn Howat dreamed up a “We didn’t know what that sale meant in terms of the kind of “experience exchange” marketplace, so we just kept for season pass holders to get going forward with what Moondance Sea Kayak Adventures’ out and see what other local owner Kristi Kucera intuitively felt right,” Howat says. outdoor recreation companies “And what felt right was the had to offer, it just seemed to idea to share the best possible fit. natural experiences of the New for the 2018/19 season, Mt. Northwest. Baker is rolling out what they “These businesses have call the Baker Exchange, a series been selected because of trip lotteries and discounts they are independently- run aimed at getting folks out in businesses owned by people the outdoors and supporting who know what it is to value local, independently-owned beautiful places, be part of the companies while they do it. community, and have some As Howat puts it, you have the serious fun!” chance to “raft the wilderness, ride a volcano, cruise the bay, One partner, Bellingham’s kayak a cove, or cat-ski the Moondance Sea Kayak Cascades.” Adventures is offering 50 free lottery spots on their half-day kayak trips to Chuckanut Island. “It’s a really cool exchange Here’s how it works: buy a season pass and you’ll also receive program,” says Moondance owner Kristi Kucera. “The ski five free days of skiing at Mt. Hood Meadows, as well as the industry is really feeling the pressure of big industry, and doing chance to enter lotteries to join local outdoor-recreation it this way is very local, very independent,” companies in exploring the outdoors. The idea, Howat says, came to her while on a rafting trip on Idaho’s Middle Fork of the Salmon River with Wilderness River Outfitters. While floating downstream she was struck by the power of the wilderness and felt that she wanted to share the experience with the Mt. Baker Ski Area community.
“It was a wilderness moment where you… just realize there is no replacement for wilderness,” she says. “That experience was super motivating to me.” So she got to talking with Seth Tonsmeire, owner-operator of Wilderness River Outfitters and these discussions sparked an idea: why not partner with family-owned recreation businesses to offer different wilderness experiences as a bonus to those purchasing season passes to Mt. Baker? This collaboration with small, locally-owned outdoor recreation purveyors comes at an interesting time. 8
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Also partnering in the exchange is San Juan Cruises, offering up 140 lottery spots on their cracked crab dinner cruises on Bellingham Bay. “We always look to work with local partners as it fits in with our tour programs,” Sean Berry of San Juan Cruises said. “Mt. Baker is a big attraction to the Bellingham community, so the partnership just made sense.” Additional experiences available through the lottery this year include rafting trips on the Salmon River in Idaho (with Wilderness River Outfitters, naturally) and guided cat skiing/ boarding trips with Cascade Powder Guides.
So while locally-owned ski areas are becoming something of an endangered species, the Mt. Baker Ski Area remains fiercely—and unapologetically— independent, celebrating the unique benefits of a community-oriented, home-town ANW business model.
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Endangered Species at Whatcom Museum Doubling down on the cutting-edge Vanishing Ice exhibition (2013-14), the Whatcom Museum continues to break new ground in the aesthetics of a changing world with Endangered Species: Artists on the Front Line of Biodiversity, on display in the Lightcatcher building through January 6, 2019. Curator Barbara Matilsky has distinguished herself with these thoughtprovoking exhibitions that address vital environmental issues with power and beauty, employing diverse and compelling artistic expressions ranging from nineteenth century paintings to contemporary video. The combined impact of the statement—works by 60 artists from around the world spanning 200 years—is undeniable. The exhibition highlights how art has supported conservation efforts for a long time, passionately conveying the intricate beauty of our planet’s flora and fauna, and in so doing, casts an unflinching eye on the environmental degradation that endangers…us. It’s breathtakingly beautiful—and terrifying at the same time. Endangered Species: Artists on the Front Line of Biodiversity at the Lightcatcher Building, 250 Flora St., Bellingham through January 6. More info: www.whatcommuseum.org/exhibition/ endangered-species/
ANW
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3 Great Hikes for W int er
Chanterelle Trail
There’s nothing like that new trail smell! The Chanterelle Trail has it. This new trail opened to the public last year, part of Lake Whatcom Park, itself a recent addition to the local recreation scene, the result of a transfer in 2014 of 8,844 acres from state to county ownership. The first in an envisioned network of trails to be built on Stewart Mountain, the Chanterelle Trail climbs 1000 feet in 2.4 miles to an expansive viewpoint above the lake. Along the way, you’ll ascend through mossy green forest (true to its name, lots of mushrooms) on moderate switchbacks with the occasional peek-a-boo look down to the lake. The viewpoint at the end is a great place to sit on a rock and contemplate the lake, Bellingham Bay, and your good fortune. Trailhead: Lake Whatcom Park Trailhead (shared with the Hertz Trail), North Shore Drive., Bellingham.
Iceberg Point A short but delightfully diverse loop hike, the Iceberg Point Trail is a little-known gem on the southwestern shoreline of Lopez Island. Along the way, you’ll find dramatic sea cliffs (some of the most impressive in the San Juans), while also sampling luxurious grassy headlands, mossy forest and rock gardens comprised of scattered glacial erratics, which look somewhat out of place in the sweeping Iceberg Point meadows of native prairie grass. Photo by John D’Onofrio On a clear day, the views of the distant Olympic Mountains are stunning and both Baker and Rainier can be seen. If it’s sunny, bask in the Vitamin D. This is part of the San Juan Islands National Monument, created by President Obama in 2013. Distance around the loop is four miles with an elevation gain of 350 feet. Trailhead: Agate Beach County Park on MacKaye Harbor Road, Lopez Island. Park here and walk farther on the road, angling right on Flint Rd. Look for a handsaw affixed to a telephone pole on the right with “Iceberg Point” inscribed on it (hey, it’s Lopez). Pass through a gate and follow the road to the left, which soon becomes a trail.
Alger Knob Here’s a hike that will warm you up on a cold winter day. Climb an old logging road (Road 1000), gaining 1200 feet in 1.5 miles (the warmth will come from within) to reach the top of the Knob and views out over the Skagit Valley and the distant San Juan Islands. Years ago the top afforded a 360-degree vista but the trees have grown up on this logged-over promontory, limiting views. Trailhead: The Alger-Cain Lake Rd., .2 Miles northeast of Alger (parking near the bridge over Silver Creek). Cross the road and hike up gated Road 1000.
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Cross Country Nirvana Skiing in Washington’s Methow Valley Story by Brian Sweet
I
magine a valley where cross country skiing is its life force and the dominant driver of the economy. Imagine a place with no stoplights for sixty miles in any direction, but night time skies with stars as far as you can see. Imagine waking up in a cabin with 225 kilometers of freshly groomed ski trails out your front door. It’s a cross country skier’s nirvana, and it does exist in Washington’s Methow Valley.
Tucked into the mountains of northern Washington, halfway between Seattle and Spokane, the Methow is uniquely blessed with a number of advantages that residents have harnessed in order to create one of the premier Nordic ski networks in North America. First is the snow that falls reliably each winter. The season isn’t super-long, usually stretching from mid-December to late March, but once it snows and the trails open, they stay reliably snow-covered until spring. This author has lived in the Methow for sixteen years, and not once has a ski trail closed in the middle of the winter for lack of snow during that time. A second advantage is its low altitude.
There are ski areas with dependable snow in other western states, but they are often located at 6,000-9,0000 feet, making locomotion on a pair of cross country skis an oxygen-sucking experience. Lastly, and most importantly, is the vision, dedication, and creativity that the locals bring to the table in creating what is now the largest cross country ski area in North America. It is difficult to describe how vast this groomed trail system is. Most cross country ski areas have a central ski lodge with trails radiating out from it into in various length loops. The Methow Valley has no such
Photo by Kristen Smith/Methow Valley Photography
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lodge, but rather fourteen trailheads that are all linked together with trails groomed for both skate and classic skiing. The interconnected trail system ranges from the town of Winthrop in the east to the hamlet of Mazama in the west and up to the five-star Sun Mountain Lodge in the South and the Rendezvous section of trails and its accompanying backcountry huts in the North. Each trail area has its own personality. Put them all together, and the Methow has something for everyone, and offers a huge variety for a week-long ski vacation.
Sun Mountain The forty-five kilometers of trails in the Sun Mountain area have the feel of a traditional cross country ski area. A variety of loops head out from a central trail head. There’s a ton of variety up here. There are short loops, flat loops, long climbs and ten kilometer descents.
stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.
The big difference between this area and most cross country ski areas is that it is linked to three other areas and an additional 180 kilometers of groomed ski trails. The Sun Mountain trails are located ten miles from Winthrop. You
don’t forget the spa treatment when you’re done with your ski).
Mazama
The village of Mazama offers fifty kilometers of ski trails. These trails are quite gentle as they wind through vast meadows and through the ponderosa pine forests. The extensive gentle terrain makes the area a great place to learn how to skate ski. There are a couple of lodging options and a myriad of cabins to rent for the week. The gentle terrain, wide-open views, and multiple loops have turned the trails in Mazama into the valley’s Mazama most popular. Photo by Kevin van Bueren
Rendezvous can stay in town and drive up to the trailhead, or ski right from Winthrop ten kilometers uphill to the main parking lot. Of course, you could also stay at the Sun Mountain Lodge (If you do,
These trails have a very different character than those in Mazama. They are perched on a hillside with access from three different
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trailheads, but no matter where you start, it’s all uphill from there. Most of the trails are not steep, but they do indeed climb up for many kilometers. The extensive (60 kilometers) Rendezvous trail system is also unique in that it boasts a system of overnight huts. And in addition to that, many of these trails are dog friendly.
Winthrop
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Winthrop is the hub of the Methow Valley in winter. It offers the most hotels, cabins, restaurants and ski shops. Sharing a parking lot with the Winthrop Ice Rink, the main Winthrop ski trailhead offers thirty kilometers of trails, most of which are in the open and offer big views. You can head straight out on the pancake-flat Methow Community Trail (see below) for an out and back ski, or turn off that trail onto one of the trails that loop back to your car or lodge.
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Methow Community Trail Linking Mazama to Winthrop is the Methow Community Trail. It’s a thirty- kilometer, point-to-point trail that is the flagship of the Methow Trail System. It offers mostly gentle skiing, but with a hilly seven kilometer section between kilometer 12 and 17 if skiing from Mazama to Winthrop. T T T T T The name given to the Community Trail wasn’t happenstance. This is literally a cross country ski community. When people talk about the upcoming ski season, it goes unsaid that they are talking about the cross country ski season. When you look at the cars parked up and down Main Street, it is cross country skis you’ll see on top of their cars. Every morning the local radio station broadcasts the grooming report and the wax of the day. And the nordic ski team (which has produced three Olympians, and has two
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The art of nature
eARTh
other Olympians as coaches) has more kids participating than the football team, boys basketball, girls basketball, and volleyball teams combined! This place eats, breathes, and sleeps cross country skiing. As if reliable snow, low altitude, a vibrant community, and the largest ski trail network in North America weren’t enough, the capstone to this amazing area is the Methow Trails organization. Each night as you are sleeping, its team of groomers head out in five snow-cats to groom the trails to perfection. Yes, five snowcats every single night! Part of the organization’s mission is to offer the best conditions, no matter when you come. If you are here mid-week, or weekend; early-season, mid-season, or late- season, if there is snow, the groomers will be out creating deep tracks and corduroy on nearly every trail. Here’s an insider tip: When it’s time to book your trip to the Methow, add one extra day. It’s a long way from everywhere, which is part of what keeps the place so special. Rent a cabin, ski for days, and go home knowing that in all likelihood there are many, many more kilometers of ski trails that you haven’t yet explored. ANW Learn more about the trails of the Methow Valley on page 22
Laurie Clarke: Celebrating Magnificent Minutia
I’m a lucky person to live in the Pacific Northwest—a place of tall forests, crashing surf, damp green moss, and sky-scraping peaks. As a result, inspiration is a demanding companion. When I don’t see the art that’s right in front of me, l ratchet down my focus to see the minutia. It removes me from the danger of looking without seeing. Clockwise from top right: Impressions; Watery Blaze; Molting Madrone; Populus Tremuloides; Wind, Water, Sun and Time Will Have Their Way
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Your Methow Valley Sources for Skis - Fatbikes - Snowshoes - Trail Info – Local Knowledge
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Cross Country Ski Specialists • All Hand-Picked and Trail Tested Sales, Rentals, Service • Skate, Classic, Back Country
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509-996-2515 goatsbeardmountainsupplies.com
509-996-3480 • 222 Riverside Ave, Winthrop
Methow Cycle & Sport is a fourseason, full-service bike, sup and nordic ski shop specializing in sales, rentals, service and recreation information. Located in Winthrop, Washington and the heart of the Methow Valley.
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METHOW VALLEY SKI SCHOOL & RENTALS Continuing over 40 years of great service 42 Lost River Road, Mazama
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29 State Route 20, Winthrop Nordic Ultratune is dedicated to helping you get the most out of your skis - and yourself - through the most up-to-date precision stone grinding and waxing techniques available
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Sun Mountain Ski rents top quality equipment and gives lessons to all levels. You’ll be skiing better, we guarantee it! 604 Patterson Lake Road, Winthrop
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Photo by Kristen Smith/Methow Valley Photography
stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.
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the Methow! B FAT IKE Story by Joseph Brown
F
at Biking is perhaps the fastest growing winter sport in North America. The Methow Valley, with a growing network of groomed fat bike trails, has quickly become a regional destination for folks who want to expand their recreation options to include winter fun on two wheels.
When it comes to fat biking, the Methow has it all: ideal twowheel terrain, state-ofthe-art trail maintenance and grooming expertise, sunny winter weather, reliable snow and a robust infrastructure for visitors. While fat biking quickly took hold in Alaska and the Midwest, the Methow Valley was one of the first areas in the westFat Biking at Pearrygin Lake Photo by Steve Mitchell/Steve Mitchell Images ern United States to recognize the potential of the fledgling that potential. sport. A partnership between Methow Originally the two partnered to Trails (the non-profit trail organizacreate an area near the Winthrop Town tion that traces its roots back to the Trailhead, where a selection of cross Methow Valley Family Sports Club in country ski trails could be shared with 1977) and Winthrop-based bike shop fat bike users. While successful, it quickMethow Cycle & Sport evolved organily became clear that dedicated singlecally, with a shared vision to develop track fat bike trails were needed. It was 16
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also clear that winter single-track trails ought to be co-located with ski and other multi-use trails, both to allow mixed groups of skiers and cyclists to recreate in the same general area and also for the uninitiated to see how much fun the fat bikers were having! As of 2018 there are several areas with trails open to fat biking in the Methow Valley: Pearrygin Lake SnoPark/Lloyd Ranch, Winthrop Town Trailhead, Gunn Ranch and Mazama. Pearrygin Lake State Park, which operates as a Sno-Park during winter, is located three miles northeast of Winthrop, and has over fifteen miles of multi-use groomed single-track trails. Access is via three trailheads, including the recent addition of Lake Creek, which follows the west side of the lake. While the system is categorized as “multi-use,� trails are prepared and signed for each user category, including pedestrians. A Washington State Sno-Park Permit is required for parking at Pearrygin. Lloyd Ranch is located adjacent to Pearrygin on the north side >>> Go to AdventuresNW.com
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of Bear Creek Road on Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife land. While not typically accessed for
ten miles of groomed trails, including a separate designated pedestrian pathway. A Washington State Discover Pass is required to park at the Lloyd Ranch trailhead. Both the Pearrygin Lake and Lloyd Ranch trails include a wide variety of terrain and trail designs to appeal to any fat biker, Photo by Kristen Smith/Methow from beginner to Valley Photography advanced and are developed and recreational use in the summer, it is a maintained by Methow Fatbike, using winter paradise. With more varied and specially-made grooming equipment. challenging terrain then Pearrygin, it The trails are twenty-four inches wide rewards those that climb to the upper and require a careful and consistent portions with arguably the best views grooming procedure to ensure that the of the North Cascades and Pasayten surface is firm and cambered correctly. Wilderness that the Methow has to The result is that they resemble sumoffer. Lloyd Ranch has approximately mer single-track trails.
stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.
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The following fat bike options are managed by Methow Trails and offer up an assortment of terrain and difficulty. To ride these, a fat bike day pass is required (this will set you back $10) and can be purchased at any of the organization’s vendors located throughout the Methow Valley. Winthrop Town Trailhead is a hub and is accessed through the Winthrop Fish Hatchery or the Town Trailhead adjacent to the Winthrop Ice Rink. Co-located with cross-country ski trails, the multi-use trails offer a great opportunity for groups and families to participate in different activities all within the same general vicinity and
trailhead. Combined, there are seven miles of fat bike/snowshoe trails accessible from Winthrop for a variety of skill and fitness levels. Evening sky at Lloyd Ranch Photo by Steve Mitchell/Steve Mitchell Images
Big Valley, located off Highway 20 between Winthrop and Mazama, offers free access to approximately five miles of multi-use trails. Almost entirely flat with wide trail grooming, Big Valley is a great area for beginners and/or
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groups. In addition, dogs are welcome. Gunn Ranch, also located between Winthrop and Mazama, offers multiuse access into the Rendezvous area. The trailhead is located at the end of the plowed portion of Gunn Ranch Road. With a lower lollipop loop and an outand-back option up to Rendezvous Basin (and ultimately to Grizzly Hut), fat bikers can enjoy the same five-plus miles of trails as skiers. The lower portions provide stunning views of the valley floor and Sun Mountain. On a sunny day, the southern exposure combined with the stellar views make for an unforgettable experience. Fat bikers can also access a small selection of trails in the Mazama area. Combined, John’s Way and Lunachick offer approximately four miles of easy riding. Featuring sweet views and flat terrain, these trails provide a perfect setting to try fat biking for the first ANW time.
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Something for Everyone Old Fashioned Fun in the Methow Story by Brian Sweet
W
hile the Methow Valley is most famous for being home to the largest cross country ski area in North America, it is quickly becoming a full-blown winter resort area with a lot to offer when you’re resting from all that skiing. A few other winter offerings are:
Winthrop Ice Rink Located adjacent to the Winthrop cross country ski trailhead, the Winthrop Ice Rink is a gorgeous, uncovered, refrigerated, outdoor ice rink that allows skaters to experience the
Ice skating in Winthrop
Photo by Kristen Smith/Methow Valley Photography
thrill of ice skating under the stars and in the shadow of Mt. Gardner. The newly installed refrigeration unit makes for guaranteed ice between November and March. There are open skate sessions, pick-up hockey (gear is available to rent), and regularly scheduled hockey tournaments for spectators. This facility is another testament to the Methow Valley community: over a million dollars and more than 5,000 volunteer hours were donated to create an amazing place for kids and adults alike. Check out their schedule at winthroprink.org
Snowshoeing There are endless opportunity to explore the wilderness on snowshoes. If you’re looking for marked and packed trails, there are opportunities out of Mazama, the Winthrop trailhead, and most extensively, out of Sun Mountain Lodge. There are also many more wild places to take your snowshoes. Just stop into one of the local ski shops for recommendations.
Snowshoeing with a view
Photo by Kristen Smith/Methow Valley Photography
Downhill Skiing at the Loup An old-fashioned mom and pop ski hill, the Loup Loup Ski Bowl is found at Loup Loup Pass, about 40 minutes from Winthrop. It’s a great place to spend a day with the family. Served by a single lift (with no lines) and friendly volunteers, it’s a breath of fresh air compared to some of the mega resorts. Check out conditions at skitheloup.com
Helicopter and Backcountry Skiing The Methow Valley lies at the base of the “American Alps” of the North Cascades. North Cascades Heli-ski can provide the experience of a lifetime as they fly skiers deep into the mountains
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for the very best snow. Also popular in the Methow is ski-touring and backcountry skiing, where solitude and silence are plentiful. Find out more at heli-ski.com and ncmountainguides.com.
Fat Biking The Methow Valley was an early adopter of this newest of winter sports. It’s like mountain biking, but easier (and softer when you fall). There are some shared use trails, but some of the best trails in the valley are on a dedicated network at Pearrygin Lake State Park, just three miles from downtown Winthrop. Rentals and trail information are available in downtown Winthrop.
separate—and extensive—trail systems, allowing participants of each sport to explore with abandon. 300 miles of groomed snowmobile trails and endless backcountry opportunities exist. Snowmobile information on trails and rentals can be found at winthropwashington.com
What you won’t find. People often talk about what a town has to offer. What’s amazing about the Methow Valley in 2018 is what it doesn’t
West coast’s largest bareboat charter sailing fleet and sailing school. Local ownership, personalized service!
Snowmobiling Snowmobile & skier conflicts are all too common in other areas of the state. Not in the Methow. Both groups have
have to offer. There are no franshise restaurants. No chain stores. No stoplights. No traffic. No light pollution. No traffic noise. It’s truly like stepping back in time. ANW
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Rarin’ to go: fat bikers start small Photo courtesy of Methow Trails
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Where to Ski (and Eat) Story by Kevin van Bueren
Y
ou’re driving into the Methow Valley. The snow is perfect. Small mountain towns greet you, lined with alluring restaurants, tempting bakeries and thirstquenching pubs. All good ... but where should you ski
in the largest groomed Nordic ski network in North America? Hmmm, you only have two days, a long weekend, maybe a week. Difficult choices need to be made. The options are profuse. It takes locals a full season to work through this incredibly large and varied trail system. As someone who has spent the better part of the last 25 years exploring the trails of the Methow on skis, here’s my advice: Talk with the local professionals at any of the plentiful outdoors shops. Find out which trails have been groomed overnight. Conditions
Photo courtesy of Methow Trails
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in the Methow Valley and grooming activities can make all the difference between a euphoric memory … or a slog. Like so much in life, timing is everything. There are three distinct areas from which to choose: Mazama, Sun Mountain and Rendezvous. The Methow Community Trail connects all three. Lots of options? No kidding. For locals, another vital consideration is the culinary opportunities available hither and yon. We take our skiing seriously. And, yep, we like to eat.
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Mazama Trails Mazama is the flattest section of the valley. The trails here are great for beginners, families, new skate skiers, veteran skiers desiring long open meadows, and those who want to experience the diverse and tasty snacking options available at the nearby Mazama store. The main corral parking in Mazama offers a few loops that range from a half-mile to two miles long (the perfect length for a hot chocolate or cold beer afterwards). One common larger loop from Mazama is the “10 K” that can be
skied either through the meadows (Goat Wall, Coyote Run, Flagg Mountain), up the Goat Creek section (blue/intermediate), down the short black diamond Goat Creek cut-off and then back on the Founders Trail (or in reverse). A short side trip takes you to a suspension bridge over the picturesque Methow River. This loop starts and ends within walking distance of the Mazama store (a salty baguette from the store might be in order). The other loop is the “latte loop.” This can be skied up the Basecamp Trail, across the road at the Bush School and back via the Lower River Run and Community Trails. Culinary layovers beckon at Jack’s Hut (great pizza and refreshments) or Freestone Inn (classic
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POETRY FROM THE WILD
Winter Song by Cameron Scott
Standing in a river I watch snow fall, Even trees eventually disappear As the mountain draws Onto a singular edge that sits above The world, quiet and insular Hidden from the valley below.
It is the descent, the turn, the tipping away from the sun the river surrounded on all sides by snow laden mountains. And it is the breaking and crumbling freedom of the first thaw; the spring, and then the fever.
Photo by John D’Onofrio
I am slowly getting somewhere – Or becoming lost – as winter settles into me. I dream about spring and the river as the last of the world’s sunlight slips from the star strewn sky: the light is something. Being alive to the light is something else entirely:
scratch cooking). For the adventurous, Mazama’s upper trails (Jack’s, River Run and the Cow Beach Hut) offer a more remote experience. Accessed via the North Cascades Trailhead on Hwy 20 (just west of the Freestone Trailhead), these trails are spectacular on a sunny day, passing beneath Goat Wall, a 3,000-foot high wall of rock.
reverse, which breaks up the constant three-mile climb up Thompson by veering off on Meadow Lark, about half-way up. Skiing up Thompson Ridge and around the loop is a 2-3 hour endeavor for most people. Choice digressions include the short (but entertaining) Criss Cross and Overland trails, both suitable for intermediate skiers.
Sun Mountain Trails
Rendezvous Trails
The trails at Sun Mountain emanate from two main trailheads: Chickadee and the well-known Sun Mountain Lodge (great top quality food and beverage options). These trails are favorites among those seeking variety of terrain. The green/beginner trails include gentle hills and there are plenty of blue and black options as well. A great loop can be skied—accessed either from Chickadee (2630 feet) or the Lodge (2860 feet)—that includes Little Wolf, Aqualoop, Sunnyside and Beaver Pond. Starting and ending at Sun Mountain will give you a descent at the beginning and a climb at the end, while starting at Chickadee is generally a more level undertaking. More rolling trails like Yellow Jacket and Rodeo are easily added to this loop. There are many variations to this option; generally skied in under two hours. Another well-known loop, popular with intermediate skiers, is up Thompson Ridge, around Meadow Lark and down the Inside Passage (1000 foot elevation gain). Some folks like to ski this one in
The most remote and challenging section of the Methow Valley is the Rendezvous system, with about 1,500 feet of elevation gain to the top. There are three trailheads to access the Rendezvous. The Cub Creek trailhead is a great place to start, affording an excellent out-and-back or up-and-over, ending at Mazama or Gunn Ranch (you’ll need a car shuttle for this). To make a loop, many skiers of all levels enjoy skiing up Cougar Bait, sampling the Cedar Creek Loop or Cow Creek Trail and then descending Cub Creek. The Gunn Ranch Trailhead is a personal favorite. On a sunny day, starting or ending at Gunn Ranch is simply glorious—a classic Methow beauty! Most skiers don’t ski up to Rendezvous from the steeper Mazama side via Fawn Creek due to the almost 2000 feet of elevation gained along the way. The Rendezvous Huts are justifiably famous. Staying overnight in one of them (while all your gear—including, of course, copious amounts of food and beverages—is hauled up for you!), is a wonderful way to enjoy a weekend
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Rendezvous Hut
Photo by James Harnois
and provides a quintessential Methow experience. Day skiers may enjoy the huts if they are empty. Generally speaking, the Rendezvous area is best enjoyed with a half- or full day (or several days!) to devote to the adventure.
Methow Community Trail The Community Trail, connecting Winthrop and Mazama, is generally flat (with a bump in the middle) and offers more than 20 miles of skiing along the way. You can break up the experience into three parts; Winthrop to Wolf Ridge; Wolf Ridge to Brown’s Farm; Brown’s Farm to Mazama (with a couple of other trailheads in this last section). The Wolf Ridge to Brown’s Farm section has some ups and downs (steeper climbs and more gentle descents when skied from Wolf Ridge to Brown’s Farm). Both the Wolf Ridge and Brown’s Farm Trailheads have day shelters and bathrooms. Thanks to the nearby amenities (food and drink again!), the Community Trail offers myriad options for a group with different abilities and speeds to re-gather without someone having to wait in a chilly parking lot. Each of these sections is about an hour (one-way) for most skiers. Plan on a vigorous half-day to ski the whole thing from Mazama to Winthrop or visa-versa. By utilizing parts of the Community Trail or the connective trails down from Sun Mountain, great short loops out of Winthrop beckon those short on time, ideal for arrival or departure days. Many locals enjoy parking at the Winthrop Trailhead and heading up-valley on the easy and flat Community Trail until they feel half-spent, then turn around and head back to the car (not far from a bakery or restaurant of course). This part of the community trail meanders along the river and across wide-open stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.
fields, offering great views of the valley and surrounding mountains. Possible side trips include the Barnsley Lake and Bitterbrush loops, both shortbut-sweet loops with rolling terrain (and a few steeper hills). Locals refer to the larger loop as the Town Triangle, consisting of the Community Trail, the Winthrop Trail and Powers Plunge. This latter trail is for advanced skiers and features some stimulating steep sections. If your party includes snowshoers, excellent options can be found at Sun Mountain, which has a plethora of snowshoe trails, many with great views. Mazama and Rendezvous also have some sweet—and underutilized—snowshoe trails. Dogs favor the Big Valley Loops beside the river and the designated dog trails at Rendezvous. Again, I highly recommend spending a little time visiting with one of the many ski professionals in one of the many ski shops, bakeries or bars in the valley. Check to see if the grooming activities and snow conditions bode well for your chosen routes. After that, simply go with the flow. ANW
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The Art of the Landscape By Bruce W. Heinemann
Washington State is a magnificent land of dynamic contrasts. It is a land born of fire, sculpted by ice and molded by the forces of time. It’s a landscape of diverse microclimates and geological features and expressions that arrest the senses. It is a living painting unfolding before our very eyes. The extraordinary beauty of our state is often close at hand, a short walk off the beaten path, out our back door, or at our feet. It requires only our attentive eyes to see and appreciate. It is literally “what the road passes by.” See more of Bruce’s photography at www.theartofnaturegallery.com Visit AdventuresNW.com to view an extended gallery of Bruce W. Heinemann’s breathtaking images of winter.
Top (L to R): Misty Winter Portrait–Lake Wenatchee; Index Creek Middle (L to R): Pine Tree and Aspen; Frosted Pond Grass; Winter Aspen Portrait; Winter Red Alder Forest Bottom (L to R): Whitehorse Mountain; Frozen Pond, Mt. Rainier; Winter Portrait–Mt. Spokane
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Libations of the Methow Valley Story by John Sinclair
T
You’ll find lots of local fermentations he Methow Valley might be world famous for its vast trail to enjoy, a dizzying array of craft beers, network, but there’s another activ- wines, and ciders that are created in this ity quickly gaining in popularity: Enjoying après ski libations in various valley venues. It’s amazing how many opportunities there are to imbibe in a town with only 34 downtown buildings. These aren’t your grand-dad’s dark smoky bars, but rather quaint tap houses, brewpubs, and wine bars that provide not only the liquid you’re looking for, but also Photo by Kristen Smith/Methow Valley Photography a place to unwind with little piece of paradise. After a hard day friends after a long day on the trail. skiing, make your way into one (or more) of these tasting rooms and brewpubs:
Old Schoolhouse Brewery (OSB)
ot taphouse n k x i S “from tree to tap”
This little brew pub/restaurant has a wide selection of their own, madein-the-Methow Valley beers, some of which have won regional awards.
Favorites include Hooligan Stout, a creamy, dark, full-bodied Americanstyle stout perfect for warming you up after a day on the trail. The beers here are made with chlorine-free water flowing from the pristine North Cascade Mountains. OSB is familyfriendly and offers a solid pub grub menu, river deck and live music. 155 Riverside Drive, Winthrop; 509.996.3183.
Copper Glance Cocktail Bar Across the Street from the Old Schoolhouse is the Copper Glance Cocktail Bar. The Copper Glance specializes in craft cocktails—this is where to go for your martini, old fashioned, or one of their own unique creations. They also serve up small plates featuring local & organic ingredients. 34-A Riverside Avenue, Winthrop
Sixknot Taphouse On the main street in Winthrop, Sixknot Taphouse offers forty-two taps
Life is simple. Simply ... live the life you choose.
Local & regional craft ciders, beer, wine, kombucha and craft sodas.
Lunch and dinner, local and seasonal menu. Open daily at 11am Sun -Thurs, 11am - 8pm Fri & Sat 11am - 10pm
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of cider, craft beer, wine, kombucha and some non-alcoholic offerings such as root beer. Most notable are the many varieties of cider that they make right here in the Methow Valley at their orchards, located between Twisp and Carlton. Sixknot is one of only two organic cideries on the West Coast. In winter, they also serve up mulled wines and hot ciders. Food options include small locavore plates, live music and a kid-friendly river deck. 231 Riverside Drive, Winthrop; 509.996.3862.
Brix Wine Bar Next door to Sixknot is the Brix Wine Bar and Bottle Shop, located in back of the Farmers Exchange Building. Brix offers a hand-curated selection of wines from around the world (as well as beer and non-alcoholic beverages) and small plates of food. If you join their Flight Club you may be rewarded with a free flight of wine. 229 Riverside Avenue, Suite H, Winthrop 509.996.3229
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Three Fingered Jacks The oldest saloon in Washington State, Three Fingered Jacks is a classic oldschool bar (replete with swinging doors) that offers cocktails, beer and wine as well as a full restaurant menu. 176 Riverside Avenue, Winthrop; 509.996.2411
Lost River Winery Around the corner, just out of the main downtown area, is the Lost River Winery tasting room. A local institution, they offer a wide variety of their own wines made right in Winthrop. Their bottles are favorites for giftgiving among locals. 26 Highway 20, Winthrop; 509.996.2888
next door to the Lost River Winery tasting room, they create their ciders using apples from their organic orchards just three miles away and feature pub grub (burgers, sandwiches, salads, pizza, etc) and oftentimes have live music. In addition to their extensive selection of ciders (Flying Squirrel, anyone?) they also serve beer and wine. With outdoor seating, the Ciderhouse is kid- and dogfriendly. 28 Highway 20, Winthrop; 509.341.4354 ANW
Methow Valley Ciderhouse Lastly, just inside the town limits, is the Methow Valley Ciderhouse, another local farm-based cidery with a taproom in Winthrop. Located on the west side of Winthrop on Highway 20, Award winning ciders, beer & wine Family, vegan, and GF friendly menu Artisan sausages & homemade soups Big screen TV for sports & movies Live music weekends Fireside seating RV parking Smoked meats Taco Tuesdays House-made desserts OPEN DAILY AT NOON CLOSED WEDNESDAYS
28 HWY 20, WINTHROP | METHOWCIDER.COM | 509-341-4354
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Sarah Finger A Deeply Etched Love for Local Landscapes Story by Nick Belcaster
A
fter a quick burn on Galbraith or hike up in the North Cascades, Sarah Finger is likely to be the one across the bar from you slinging your après trail beer. But she also has a strong connection to that magnificent landscape you can’t stop staring at on the can of IPA you’re slugging down. She’s the artist who created it. Finger is the one-woman artist of Skyline Printworks, as well as the mind behind the artwork adorning the cans of five, soon to be six, different flavors
of Kulshan Brewing beers, all part of a recent rebranding. The scenes depict the jagged mountainscapes of the Cascades, the sinuous rivers of the lowlands and the sandstone hideaways of the coast, and all are done in the impressively labor-intensive style of block printing. “There are people out there who would never want to buy a piece of art for their walls, but they have a six-pack of Bastard Kat in their fridge,” Finger says. “It’s art appealing to a wider audience.” Finger was raised on the sediments and colors and textures of the Nooksack River Valley. Her family owns an or-
ganic farm along the curves of the river, and her upbringing was a simple one. Homeschooled with no television in her childhood home, Finger and her siblings would light out for the river or romp about in the woods after their lessons were done. “When you spend a lot of time in beautiful places, it’s impossible not to be inspired by them,” Finger says. “For me, that inspiration comes in the form of capturing that feeling when you don’t have words.” Those childhood outings cemented her deep love for this place, and serve as an inspiring well to draw from when she is working on a new block print. The unique printing style is one she learned while attending Whitman College in Walla Walla, WA. When Finger tells
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noleum or wood, and then meticulously carved for hours on end. On the day that I spoke with Finger a slab of linoleum destined to become a print is laid out on her glass-top workbench, where she anticipated spending upwards of 40 to 50 hours working on relief carving the image. Exceedingly sharp tools called gouges are scattered about, along with little pots of oil-based inks and metal scrapers. “There’s a delayed gratification,” Finger says. “With a painting you know what it looks like as you’re working on it, whereas with print making, you have a sense if it’s going well, but you really don’t know until you ink it up and pull the first print.” Finger gives me a demonstration, rolling a heavy brayer roller across a pool of black ink and onto a block that she’s al-
Photo by Nick Belcaster
folks that she’s a printmaker, they often look at her with the same look you might imagine giving someone who tells you they are a blacksmith. “I tell them it’s like a big, detailed stamp, and then generally people understand it a bit more.” Block printing goes a little like this: The process begins with a sketch, which needs to be reversed on carbon paper for the ‘flip’ of the printmaking to work. This is transferred onto a block of li-
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tiples, Finger tells me about block printing, and that’s a big part of the reason that she likes it. When 50 or more hours are invested into carving a really detailed design, the process yields multiple pieces of art, depending on how many times she inks up the block. And like the proverbial snowflakes that fall on her beloved mountain peaks, no two are exactly the same. ANW
OUTSIDE IN Reflections on Wilderness
by Kathy and Craig Copeland
Invocation Some close their eyes, Bow their heads, And place their palms together. We open our eyes, Lift our heads, And place one foot in front of the other.
Photo by John D’Onofrio
Cascade River House
ready carved. Winding the huge arm of an etching press that is easily the largest piece of furniture in her Bellingham apartment, the block and paper are brought together. What emerges is a perfect scene from atop Winchester mountain, looking out beyond the lookout and over Goat Mountain toward the serrated blade of Mt. Shuksan. It’s inherently a medium of mul-
Extracted from Heading Outdoors Eventually Leads Within by Kathy and Craig Copeland (hikingcamping.com)
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Surviving the Orcas Island 100 Story by Jade de la Rosa • Photos by Glen Tachiyama
F
or the past five years, my husband, Nick, and I have made every excuse to visit the Pacific Northwest. In 2014, we ran the Sea to Summit Trail on British Columbia’s North Shore and shopped for ripe peaches and sunwarmed tomatoes at the Bellingham Farmer’s Market. In 2015 we hiked the West Coast Trail, then I crewed for Nick when he ran the Fat Dog 120, an ultra marathon in Manning Park, B.C. during the stormiest year race organizers had ever seen. In 2016 we island-hopped around British Columbia’s Gulf Islands, and in 2017, we were so eager to come back that we signed up for a 100-mile race on Orcas Island—in February. To be honest, running a 100-mile race during a Washington winter didn’t seem like the best choice. The average
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temperature hovers uncomfortably close to freezing, daylight hours extend from 7:30 a.m. to just after 5 p.m.—a far cry from the 16 hours of daylight during the summer solstice—and tights, a longsleeve shirt, gloves, shin-high socks, and a jacket are just the start of what you’ll probably need to wear. To make matters worse, we were coming from San Diego where the average year-round temperature is a mild 70°F. I hadn’t worn pants for several months and certainly not when running. Despite it all, we signed up to enter the race. The anticipation of that salty smell of coastal brine and dark, pungent forests was too alluring and the chance to experience seasons—something different than San Diego’s perpetual summer— seemed too good to miss. “Do you really think we should do this?” Nick questioned one night as we
sat in front of my laptop, the website open to Ultrasignup. The header for the race’s description was a concise and appealing “Island Magic.” “Why not?” I said. “It’s another chance to get back to the northwest.” He grinned, which meant that I wasn’t the only crazy one. On a blustery Friday morning, Nick and I flew into Seattle and then drove to Anacortes where we waited for the Orcas Island ferry. We met my dad, who had driven down from his home in Vancouver, B.C. As the ferry approached the harbor, I nestled my chin into my scarf and hoped for warmer weather. Seagulls flew in lazy circles above our heads and a seal popped out from the gray-green surface of the water, its eyes round and vacant. “I can’t wait for the race,” Nick said. “I can’t wait for the island,” I replied. Despite growing up in nearby White
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Rock, British Columbia, I had spent most of my time on Canadian islands like Salt Spring and Galiano; the San Juan Islands were entirely new to me. Once aboard the ferry, we braved the windy deck just long enough to take pictures of Orcas coming into view. The island is easily identified by its horseshoeshaped profile, divided by the East Sound inlet. To the east is Orcas’ highest point, Mt. Constitution. I looked on anxiously—this would be the highest point of the race, and one that we would reach four times on the 25-mile long loop course. Those who ventured to the very top of the venerable tower at its summit every cycle would be eligible for a bonus award. I imagined how my legs might feel 80 miles into the race: would I still be climbing those stone steps? While some assume that Orcas Island is named for the southern resident killer whales that make their summer home in the surrounding waters, the name actually comes from the viceroy of Mexico, a man with 13 names: Don Juan Vincente de Guemes Pacheco Padilla Horcasitas y Aguayo Conde de Revilla Gigedo. Thankfully, only Horcasitas was used in the naming of the island. At Deer Harbor, we unloaded our bags and made a quick stop at the Orcas Food Co-op to pick up some last-minute
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supplies and snacks for the race. From there, we made the 10-minute drive to the Rosario Resort & Spa, where we’d booked a room—a pre- and post-race treat. The resort sits just outside of Moran State Park, the 5,500-acre park where the Orcas Island 100 would take place
Pacers? Not allowed. Crew? At designated aid stations. Food? Plenty of it. How to stay warm? No cotton, lots of layers, and keep moving… Back at the resort, we ate a quick meal and then settled in for as much
the following morning. After dropping off our bags, we hurried over to the prerace meeting where Race Director James Varner, and his team at Rainshadow Running explained everything we needed to know. Start time? 8 a.m.
sleep as we could get. As sunrise dawned soupy grey, I slid into thick black tights, a long-sleeve shirt, a fleece, long wool socks, and a black headband that I wore around my ears, already reddened from the frigid air. I was nervous, as was Nick, despite his long history of impressive
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ultra distance finishes: Badwater-135, Barkley Marathons, and Arrowhead 135, among many others. Nick had been in rough conditions, facing 130° heat and -40°cold, but the closest I’d been to exposed cold was taking skiing lessons on Grouse Mountain or snowshoeing at Mt. Seymour on Vancouver’s North Shore. Moreover, this was only my third 100-miler, which might sound like a solid resume until you consider that this race would feature 26,000 feet of climbing. “So you’re going to have fun the whole time, right?” My dad asked me as he tried to place a toque on my head. I gently took it off and assured him I’d have fun—most of the time. Just before 8 a.m., James gathered 57 anxious runners. Nick gave me a quick kiss and we wished each other good races; I knew that this would be the last I’d see of him that day. Within minutes we were off. I glanced once at the long climb ahead then kept my head down. I’d get through
this one step at a time. Due to the steepness of the first climb, most runners decided to power hike but I continued to run, figuring I’d keep warm by doing so. I reached Little Summit, the top of the first climb, then quickly headed down the technical downhill to the first, then second, aid stations. The forest was intimate here with thick-barked Douglas firs and spongy green moss that had been dusted with a layer of snow. Soon I found myself next to another female runner and, after introducing ourselves, I learned that she was just two years older than me; we were the youngest runners on course. I had the feeling we’d be spending the next 85 miles together. Katie and I held a similar pace and soon enough we were through the third aid station and beginning the toughest climb of the course: Powerline. I’ve always loved climbing, and it’s typically my strength in a race, but I had greatly underestimated both the length and grade of this section. The single track opened onto
double track that continued up and up and up, until I looked back and could see islands far below me. Even then we weren’t done with the climb. Katie and I hiked up most of the way together, until the trail finally ended and began an annoying descent through snowy single track once more. Finally the descent concluded with a bridge and we were switchbacking our way up the backside of Mt. Constitution. “Tower?” I asked Katie at the top of Constitution. I needn’t have asked. We both headed straight up the steps to where an expansive view awaited us at the top. From here, we could see the surrounding islands and Mt. Baker, glistening like a crystal snow globe in the distance. We hurried down the switchbacking trail back to the start: the end of our first loop. Loops two and three would go equally as well, with only minor issues because I downed too many cups of coffee in an effort to stay awake during the pre-dawn hours. Every time Katie and I climbed the tower, one of the coldest parts of the
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The heartbeat of Cascadia
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course, I was surprised at just how well my body was regulating the temperature; there was no need to have worried quite so much about the weather. In fact, a winter race had its own special magic: longer nights meant a higher chance of spotting an owl and cooler temperatures meant snow-lined trails that looked like magic carpets sparkling in the slanted afternoon sun. Katie and I ultimately separated on the last loop when a lingering cold reared its onerous head and I found myself struggling for breath on the last long climb. By the time I could see the finish, where Nick and my dad waited, I was wheezing and gasping and thankful that the race was done. I had finished the Orcas Island 100 as third-female and seventh-overall in just over 24 hours, 45 minutes. I hugged my Dad and Nick who were understandably just as exhausted; Nick had finished several hours before to win the race and my dad had stayed awake for longer than he ever has to ensure that I was well-fed and appropriately clothed on every loop.
Island Amenities Where to Stay • If you’re looking for luxury, look no further than the Rosario Resort & Spa, with grand views of the bay. • Doe Bay Resort & Retreat offers cabins, yurts, and campsites free of televisions and has an on-site organic garden, the Doe Bay Cafe, and three outdoor saltwater soaking tubs. • Many cottages can be found throughout the island, and thanks to equipped kitchens, provide the opportunity to buy and cook local. Where to Eat • Attached to the Outlook Inn, New Leaf Cafe features French cuisine with self-proclaimed honest and unpretentious food. Dinner served Thursday to Monday, 5 to 9 p.m. Breakfast served Thursday, Friday, and Monday, 8 to 11:30 a.m. and Saturdays and Sundays, 8 to 12:30 p.m. • Brown Bear Bakery, serves pastries and desserts Wednesday to Friday, 8:30 to 4 p.m. and Saturdays and Sundays, 10 to 4 p.m. • Rose’s Bakery & Cafe presents nourishing meals like creamy tomato soup, English pea-hummus sandwiches, and summer squash pizza. The cafe is open Tuesday to Saturday, 8:30 to 4 p.m., and the bakery is open Monday to Saturday, 10 to 5 p.m. What to Do • Moran State Park offers miles of hiking (or running) trails, campgrounds, and boating at Cascade Lake or Mountain Lake. Hike, bike, or drive to Mt. Constitution to see stunning views of Mt. Baker on a clear day. • For the best wildlife watching on the island, visit Turtleback Mountain Preserve. Hike one of the short trails, or combine several to cover eight miles of the preserve. • Tour the shops in Eastsound Village. Pop into art galleries, shop for books at Darvill’s Bookstore, or visit the Orcas Island Farmers Market on Saturdays from May to November. stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.
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Both Nick and I were tired, but our hunger was more pressing so we thanked James and the fantastic volunteers on the course and hurried into town. It would be our first real meal in over a day and we were eager to experience the local Orcas cuisine. We made a quick stop at our room to shower and change, and then headed to New Leaf Cafe, a French-inspired cafe that overlooks Eastsound’s quaint bay, eager for sustenance. I barely made it through my meal before my eyes started to close on me, so the rest of the day was spent catching up on missed sleep then taking a dip at the Rosario’s salt-water swimming pool. My legs felt like lead as I kicked them in the water and I realized what a stunning contrast this warm water was to the frigid air atop Mt. Constitution less than 12 hours earlier. Our farewell to Orcas came faster than expected. On Monday morning, we took a quick driving tour of the island, part of the San Juan Islands Scenic Byway, with time enough to jot down a few activities we wanted to do on a return trip: rent bikes through Wildlife Cycles for a pedal-powered tour of the island, adventure by sea kayak, and stop by the acclaimed Brown Bear Baking for a well-deserved island berry galette or rich chocolate muffin, regardless of whether we’ve just run 100 miles or not. “Next time we’re just coming for the food,” Nick said as our ferry departed Deer Harbor and headed back to Anacortes. I agreed, my legs creaky and stiff. Next time, Orcas Island ANW was reason enough.
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Graduation Day Story by Mark Harfenist
I
am inescapably and resoundingly middle-aged. I have been a college student for three years now, liquidating savings and borrowing heavily against presumed future earnings. Recently— remarkably—I graduated: thirty years almost to the day since I finished high school. Early that morning I drove to the mountains for a celebratory ski in the Mt. Baker backcountry, my excuse being that I needed to look for the camera I lost in a backcountry bowl, three months and many blizzards ago. I would have plenty of time to ski a couple of thousand feet, then drive back to the lowlands where I live— plenty of time to dress up and walk my final undergraduate walk. The ceremony was to start at 1 p.m. I left the parking lot at 7 a.m., made it to the saddle in an hour, and then dropped in great, swooping arcs down the other side, inspecting camera-sized bits of debris here and there, skis chattering on still-frozen sun cups. At the very bottom of the slope, on the edge of a tiny lake just beginning to melt out, was my camera in its case. I picked it up and pressed some buttons; the lens zoomed in and out and the shutter clicked and whirred. 40
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I whooped and bellowed and listened to the answers from the surrounding cliffs. Then I hustled back up to the saddle and started down the other side. What can I say? I was in a hurry. I’d
twice....and tripped on some icy chunks. I hit the ground and started sliding fast. Then came a distinct distortion of linear time. I thought in no particular hurry about the trees below me, and about how unfortunate it would be to hit one. I thought about all the people I know who wear helmets in the backcountry, and I thought that if I could miss the trees I’d be fine once the slope flattened out in three or four hundred vertical feet. I had my Whippet buried deeply in the snow, and this kept my head upslope of my feet— which past experience has convinced me is much preferable to the alternative—but it did not slow me down. I wished my spine was not so arthritic, that I might dig my edges in and stand up skiing.... but I didn’t dare try, for fear of injuring my back or cart-wheeling out of control. I noted, somewhat disbelievingly, that I was accelerating, Photo by John D’Onofrio then airborne over a little roll, aimed directly skied that spot many times, and although at a tree. it is undeniably steep it is not unreasonI spun sideways and hit the tree hard ably so, and there’s enough room for a with my femur, bounced, screamed cursfew turns or to sideslip out onto the open es, and continued downslope towards slopes below. Usually I ski it cautiously. the next cluster of trees. Fortunately, This time, concerned about being late these were deeply buried, with only the for my graduation, I blasted through the tops exposed, and I ricocheted around a little chute without hesitating, turned bit before coming to rest in a tree-well,
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tangled in branches. It took about 15 minutes to get my skis off, and another 15 to climb through the trees and out the other side. My left leg was totally useless, and I slipped into mild shock for a while, but for the most part everything else felt OK. I couldn’t find any broken bones, so after thinking it over carefully I gobbled some ibuprofen and started sliding, hopping and crawling the couple of miles and 1300 vertical feet to the parking lot. There was a certain amount of pain involved, and I wasn’t entirely confident I’d make it, but at this point, I figured that I had all day. A couple of hours later, half way to my car, I saw two skiers starting to climb the slope below me. When it became obvious that they saw me and were headed in my direction I was surprised to find myself weeping. They were kind enough to abandon their tour, take my pack and accompany me back to the parking lot—a fifteen minute journey which took another couple of hours. We got there just as I was due to be walking across the stage back in town, surrounded by friends, classmates and flashing cameras. I thanked them as best I could, took some more ibuprofen and began my drive. All the way home I listened to music from a time before I ever imagined myself as a skier or a college grad; before, in fact, I understood my own vulnerability to death or disability. By the time I got to the hospital, graduation was over and my left leg was swollen and throbbing almost beyond comprehension.
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I spent the rest of the day shuttling around the ER in a wheelchair, suffering the jokes made by doctors and nurses and trying not to let anyone bump my very vulnerable leg. Friends from school came to sit with me en route to and from various graduation parties; all politely refrained from lecturing me about the taking of needless risks (for some this restraint was a definite strain, and a few rather pointed discussions ensued). Eventually it became clear that my femur was intact—how this
could be true, given the force with which I tried to snap it in two against that tree, I cannot imagine—although my fibula was broken. A stroke of luck, said the doctor; normal activity in a month. I found this encouraging, and began to entertain thoughts of adventures to come. By this time, it was evening. I went home, ate a pizza, and headed out to the biggest and grandest of the parties. After a couple of hours and a paltry few beers I hit the proverbial wall, and I went
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crutching down the dirt road in the dark in search of my car. It was 2 a.m., and partygoers were still arriving. • • • So it is that my ski season ends early, just as the North Cascades snow was coming into shape. I have a nice new pair of crutches and a bright red handicapped parking placard, and in a week I’ll take them on my drive east to visit with friends scattered here and there, trying not to relate to every place I see in terms of its potential as ski terrain. In August I’ll fly to Greenland for a glimpse into a world where formal education, career goals and the pursuit of what we Westerners name “recreation” do not figure so prominently
in lived experience. Early next October it will again begin to snow in the mountains, and I’ll again ski the backcountry each weekend, wondering where my conditioning went and why this mysterious telemark dance seems on some days so straightforward, at other times so evasive. This story has no moral, really— though some will doubtless disagree. This was the most pronounced lifethreatening event of my foreshortened ski season, and it will find its way into my risk assessment and my understandings of what I am doing out there, wandering in places of undoubted danger. Here is one ending of the many: Picture this: I am 46 years old, on skis
in mountainous backcountry. Multiple layers of meaning and metaphor have adhered to such places during the long span of my earthbound life, attached to the storms and the wilderness, to my presence and all that comprises my Self. I slide smooth and graceful through an undulating snowy landscape, passing gnarled trees uniquely adapted to short growing seasons, to cloudy skies and massive precipitation; passing ancient basaltic outcrops and the tracks of hares, foxes, and marmots waking thin and hungry in early spring; passing mysterious insects walking patiently across huge blank fields of white. In this landscape and in this action, what can I adequately define or describe?
VITAL SIGNS Finding the Light - Cultivating Mind Body Health in the Winter By Sarah Laing, B.Sc. Nutrition I think we can all identify with that heavier feeling of fall as it slides into the holiday season, whether from a little extra bulge on your waistline or the panicked feeling setting in about the busy schedule of festivities ahead. If this sounds familiar, don’t fret. By making just a few changes to your routine, you can shift your mind and body into a healthier direction and avoid the proverbial, and physical, darkness of the winter season. Try making a do/don’t list of things you want to accomplish and avoid—this could be as simple as “I want to maintain my weight over the holidays” or “I want to engage more with friends.” Put the
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list on your fridge so your goals stay at the front of your mind. Daily gratitude affirmations are another simple way to keep a healthy perspective and actually help boost immunity and prevent chronic disease. Make a crockpot stew or chili with seasonal veggies such as yams, carrots, or squash to energize and keep your weight on track. Sources of health and happiness are abundant, we just need to recognize the positive aspects of our lives—healthy food, friends and habits— and embrace them even during the darker times of the year. ANW
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So picture this instead: I am traveling through a mystic, mythical place where I have been a thousand times before, though nothing here is quite describable in words or concrete imagery. I am moving in a landscape that is my own constructed Self, through my own history, through memory and interpretation and all the things I’ve done and all the places I’ve been. I am alone here and all that I see, touch, smell or hear is an
aspect of who I am, a projection of Self. It is the dreamtime that I always forget, and as such it is always included in my telling, no matter what the words may say. I will return bearing whatever gifts I may find, whether sharply defined or forever inchoate. You know this, and you listen for it, because in their absence the story is incomplete. You are the mountains, and the mountains are you. ANW
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The Problem With Drones Story and photo by Nick Belcaster
I
magine, if you will, a pleasant afternoon of tranquil rambling in the green meadows of the North Cascades. But then you begin to be aware of a high-pitched buzz above you.
And this, I’m afraid, is becoming the new normal. A month before the hot spring incident, another drone was haplessly deposited into nearby Yellowstone Lake, netting the German tourist responsible a $1,500 fine and year-long ban from the park. Throughout the west, public land managers began reporting drones straf-
Not a mosquito. A drone, hovering just overhead. Approximately the size of a toaster, with four rotors spinning rapidly and a high-definition camera slung beneath it. The spell is broken. And is that… “The Ride of the Valkyries”? Drones in the wilderness have become commonplace in recent years, flown by eager enthusiasts seeking a birds-eye view of the public lands we all enjoy. Many appreciate the images they pull from the sky, while just as many wish a sizeable hawk would do as nature intended and Evan Skoczenski and friend remove the annoyance. k k k On August 2, 2014, a Dutch tourist by the name of Theodorus Van Vliet was flying his drone next to the largest hot spring in the United States, the Giant Prismatic Spring in Yellowstone, when he must have thought to himself, “I’d rather like to see that from above.” Blissfully unaware of National Park regulations prohibiting drones, Van Vliet promptly succeeded in crash-landing the craft, with what I can only imagine was punctuated by a satisfying plop. He would eventually be on the hook for over $3,000 in fines. The drone remains unfound at the bottom of the spring. 44
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ing wild bighorn sheep in Zion National Park, going haywire and crashing wildly over the rim of the Grand Canyon, and countless other misadventures running the gamut from insult to injury. The drone problem had been growing for years and it was obvious that something had to be done. In June, 2014 then-Director of the National Park Service Jonathan B. Jarvis had released Policy Memorandum 14-05. In response to the dramatic rise in unmanned aircraft over public lands, Jarvis directed all superintendents to ban the use of drones in parks, citing “unacceptable impacts such as harming visitors, interfering with res
cue operations, causing excessive noise, impacting viewsheds, and disturbing wildlife.” Still, drones have had their moments. In April of 2017, Grand Canyon National Park rolled out their fleet of drones to search for LouAnn Merrell and her step-grandson, Jackson Standefer who had gone missing at the bottom of the canyon, the first such use in a search and rescue operation. While the search was unfortunately fruitless, the use of such technology in search and rescue operations garnered attention. No helicopter pilot needed to risk life and limb. There were savings in fuel costs and the drones could go places that rangers on foot couldn’t. In the middle of all this is the woefully unprepared Federal Aviation Administration. The FAA has scrambled to implement rules and regulations to deal with the soaring number of drone operators. In August of 2016, the FAA released requirements including a lineof-sight restriction, registration of drones with the agency and something known as a remote pilot certificate for commercial operators. This bureaucratic response has had dubious results. Ask any drone operator for their registration and you’ll be looked at as if you have a set of rotors growing from your own head. k k k My own experience with drones >>> Go to AdventuresNW.com
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has been limited, though I do know folks who use them often. I’ve seen the stunning photos, made possible by drones’ pinpoint-able aerial perspective and often marveled at the National Geographic-quality video that is now being turned out by amateurs. And then there’s Evan Skoczenski, a local photographer and my closest tie to the world of drones. I joined him recently for a beer at a local brewpub to ask him about the allure of the winged contrivances. Skoczenski is a young guy, certainly no luddite and more surely planted in the “drones are neat” camp than anything else. He’s quick to draw contrast between the lowly hobbyists buzzing the viewpoint at your local National Park and those who use drones as part of their photography kit; a higher class of operator with a purer calling. He places himself squarely in the latter group. “There’s a super-artistic photography niche, and then there’s the hobbyist remote-control niche. They don’t say they want to get this 4K photo, they just want to fly through some hoops,” Evan tells me. I press him a bit, saying that surely the general public couldn’t give a damn either way, and wonder what it is he does to ensure he doesn’t
encroach on other people’s space. I can hear the wavering in his voice as he nurses his ale. “I want to respect people,” he says. “I just feel like I’m never out in a place where there are crowds to bother.” Looking at his photos, I’d wager he’s telling the truth. They capture a desolation that many seek out in the woods. I ask Evan what he thinks of the drone ban in the national parks, something that directly impacts what it is he does. He pauses and mulls it over for a bit. “I think that’s fair. So many people are affected, and the odds are too high that someone might get hurt,” he says. “There’s enough people doing stupid things outside of national parks.” Never mind putting a drone controller in their hands, I would add. That I can raise a glass to. k k k The Leave No Trace Ethic truly is a wonderful thing, a succinct ideology on how one should conduct oneself
out in the woods. But a new question has emerged: what exactly is ‘a trace’? Obviously, it’s garbage left beside the trail and the scar of an illegal campfire. But could it also be something more ephemeral, an intrusion that diminishes the freedom of others to experience the natural world and the soft sounds of the wind in the trees? Are drones just another manifestation of a new ethos borne of our technological bubbles where we no longer seem to be aware of—or care—how what we do affects others? We ought to advocate for responsible drone use on our public lands, and seek to minimize their intrusion on others. It truly comes down to the person behind the joystick. Consider your impact when you feel the urge to launch the thing. Are there people around? Animals? Might you infringe on someone’s solitude? If so, it may be best to leave the drone at home. You’d be surprised just how much beauty ANW you can see from the ground...
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Field Trip Adventures beyond the PNW
Badwater Story and photo by John D’Onofrio
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e ride into Death Valley in late afternoon, careening down the winding road through the Panamint Range. Down again past the graceful sand dunes of Mesquite Flat, and then down even more towards Badwater, elevation: 282.2 feet below sea level, the bottom of North America. The last golden light bathes the undulating desert hills before slowly giving way to the spangled night sky. Sparks from our campfire rise to join the glittering stars. In the pre-dawn chill we crawl from our sleeping bags and hike out onto the vast salt pan in the dark to wait for the sunrise. Coyotes, somewhere off in the indiscernible distance, harmonize on a free-jazz motif, heralding the first light which finally appears, spreading across the bare mountains like syrup. Like a lightshow at the Fillmore, the hills shift from blue to purple to magenta to pink. The coyotes stop on a dime. The silence cannot be described. Badwater Basin is the lowest point in North America, only 85 miles from Mt. Whitney, the highest point in the contiguous United States. As its name suggests, the water that pools here is undrinkable due to a high concentration of salt. During endless freeze-thaw and evaporation cycles, the salt crust is formed into hexagonal shapes, creating the surreal landscape for which the area is famous. ANW
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Gear Spotlight: MSR Evo Snowshoes by Chris Gerston
Keeping active in the winter can be difficult for some people when so many local, favorite trails are covered with snow. This is a great time to explore the world of snowshoeing. At Backcountry Essentials, we both rent and sell the MSR Evo™ snowshoes because of their functionality, durability, and warranty. First and foremost, the best thing about these snowshoes is the “gription,” which allows you to walk naturally across any slope. Not only do the MSR shoes have a claw under the toe (as do most snowshoes), but they also use long serrated rails down the length of the shoe to help it maintain direction when traversing a slope. Because other brands lack this component, these other snowshoes want to pivot around the toe claw, so in essence one has to side step when traversing a slope. Furthermore, the Evos have an option to add “tails” which increase the flotation in deep snow or when carrying a heavier pack. And lastly, MSR also offers “Ascent” models that incorporate a heel riser for increasing your efficiency when going uphill; a huge advantage on a big day. The other reason we have only carried the MSR snowshoes since day one is their durability. Once upon a time, I used to lead 21-day snowshoeing trips in the Oregon Cascades and literally had to fix just about every other brand of shoes at one point or another, but never an MSR. On top of that, every MSR snowshoe is backed by a lifetime warranty against defect. That peace of mind is tangible whether going out for a day or for weeks. Chris Gerston owns Backcountry Essentials, an outdoor specialty shop located at 214 W. Holly in Bellingham, WA. Check out more of Chris’ gear reviews at AdventuresNW.com Sponsored review
Cascadia Gear: Essentials for your next Adventure Therm-a-Rest Oberon 0 Sleeping Bag I’ve used Therm-a-Rest ® sleeping bags for a couple of years and really like the concept of attaching the bag to the mattress via straps. The bag is designed to save weight by distributing 60% of the down on top and only 40% on the bottom where the mattress provides the warmth. The Oberon™ 0 weighs 2.7 pounds, reasonably light for its comfort rating of 14 degrees. Like the other Therm-a-Rest bags that I’ve tried, it’s a little more roomy than most mummy bags and this, combined with anchoring to the mattress, enables me to turn over inside the bag. Very comfortable. The 800-fill Nikwax Hydrophobic Down™ repels down’s arch-enemy, dampness, and puffs up like nobody’s business. The fulllength zipper feels solid and the upper shell features a ‘Thermacapture Lining’ to reflect body heat. More info: www.thermarest.com
Stegmann Original 108 Wool Clogs These ultra-comfy wool clogs by Stegmann are just what the doctor ordered for après ski footwear. Constructed of a thick blend of Tyrolean & Merino felted wool atop a contoured cork sole, they are seamless for comfort and durability (no seams to come apart). Based in Tyrol, Austria, Stegmann has been manufacturing footwear since 1888 and their reputation for quality craftsmanship is legendary. Stegmanns are known to last 20 years. The company’s Species Preservation initiative supports small farmers and sustains rare breeds of sheep. A truly farm-to-foot experience! More info: www.stegmannusa.com
Journey Inward Yoga with Susan D’Onofrio
Morsel Spork A spork is a spork, you might say. But you haven’t seen the Morsel Spork. The folks at Morsel have re-imagined this basic utensil—spoon, fork and knife combined—as an implement of utilitarian elegance. It is long (to reach the bottom of your Mountain House pouch) and has a spatula-like flexible edge on the spoon side (to scrape every last … well, morsel). The fork end has a reasonably strong cutting edge for a spork and the whole thing is tough enough to hold up to overzealous backpack cramming. Our reviewer described it as “the cat’s pajamas.” More info: morselspork.com
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Mountain Khakis Pop Top Tunic The women’s fleece/polyester Pop Top Tunic is an ultra-cozy hoodie that will keep winter cold at bay whether out for a walk in the park or navigating city streets. It’s long, perfect to wear with leggings and light as a feather and also serves as a comfortable mid-layer. More info: www.mountainkhakis.com
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RACE I PLAY I EXPERIENCE CALENDAR
aturday, 23 February
DECEMBER >>> Friday, 7 December SPECIAL Holiday Party with the Community Boating Center–– Squalicum Boathouse, 6:30 pm – 10:00 pm. A private sail for two? A romantic get-away at a cabin in Glacier? A new top quality paddleboard? The prizes up for auction at our annual Holiday Party have got us drooling too. Join us on December 7 at the Squalicum Boathouse, 6-10pm. Enjoy dinner, jazz, an auction, and more, and celebrate another phenomenal year on Bellingham Bay. And psst! Every entry ticket is entered in a drawing for a free season pass for 2019! SNOW Avalanche Course–– American Alpine Institute, 7:30 am –5:00 pm. Three days of training that could save your life. Offered every weekend through mid-March. If you, a friend, or loved one rides, skis, or snowshoes in the winter backcountry, these skills are essential to your safety. Learn what to look for in the snow pack, how to test stability, read terrain, avoid danger zones, and to rescue yourself or partners if caught in an avalanche. 1 day in classroom, two days Mt. Baker backcountry. American Alpine Institute.
REGISTER TODAY!
FEBRUARY 2019 >>> Saturday, 23 February SNOW Coast Outdoors P’ayakensut (Payak)––Whistler Olympic Park, 10:00 am – 3:00 pm. All ages and abilities are welcome to strap on the skinny skis for the Coast Outdoors Payak, February 23, 2019! Come enjoy the trails through old growth forest, past waterfalls, and into the stadium used for the 2010 Winter Olympics! Free technique event, with thousands of $ in cash prizes, plus even more in draw prizes from industry sponsors Salomon, Fischer, Swix! And, it is a qualifier event for the American Birkie!
SPECIAL Recreation Northwest Expo––Bellingham Cruise Terminal, 11:00 am – 5:00 pm. Come discover your next outdoor adventure at the Recreation Northwest EXPO. Saturday, February 23rd in Bellingham, Washington the EXPO begins at Noon and is free and open to the public. Bring your friends and family to meet face to face with Apparel and Gear Manufacturers, Retailers, Outfitters, Outdoor Media, Activity Clubs, Stewardship Organizations and representatives from your favorite local recreation events and races.
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MARCH 2019 >>>
MAY 2019 >>>
Saturday, 16 March
Tuesday - Tuesday, 21-28 May
RUN/WALK Runnin’ O’ the Green–– Boundary Bay Brewery, 10:00 am – 11:00 am. Get your green on!
Tuesday, 19 March SPECIAL Washington Outdoor Summit––Bellingham Technical College, 9:00 am – 5:00 pm. Explore and share ways to grow and promote Washington State’s flourishing recreation economy.
APRIL 2019 >>> Sunday, 14 April RUN/WALK Whidbey Island Marathon––Bayshore Dr Waterfront, 7:00 am – 2:00 pm. The Whidbey Island Marathon – One of the Pacific Northwest’s hidden athletic gems is the perfect destination race. Starting at the famed Deception Pass Bridge then winding its way through picturesque ocean views and tranquil farmland, the courses promise to be scenic from country back roads to waterfront coastlines, snow-capped mountains and rolling hills. Featuring a Marathon, 1/2 Marathon Run/Walk, 10K Run/Walk, 5K Run/Walk, 1K Kids Run, there’s a distance for everyone in the family!
Sunday, 28 April CYCLE McClinchy Mile Bike Ride–– Haller Park, 7:00 am – 4:00 pm. Arlington, WA: Enjoy barns, burgers & brews on loops from 30 to 100 miles.
Run the famed Deception Pass Bridge!
RUN THE BRIDGE RACE | PLAY | EXPERIENCE
7 December - 22 June 2019
SPECIAL Adventures NW Glacier Bay Photography Workshop–– Glacier Bay, May 21, 11:00 am – May 28, 1:00 pm. Join Adventures NW for a spectacular week in Glacier Bay aboard the M/V David B. The David B goes places that are off-limits to the big ships, allowing us the chance to get up close and personal with one of America’s most awe-inspiring National Parks. Phenomenal scenery, whales, bears, and lots of stunning blue ice! In-depth workshop on digital shooting, editing and post-processing, private staterooms & gourmet meals. Limited to Six Passengers. www.adventuresnw.com/ photo-workshops
Friday - Friday, 31 May - 7 June SPECIAL Alaska Fjords Photography Workshop & Tour––Alaska Fjords, May 31, 11:00 am – Jun 7, 1:00 pm. Join Adventures NW for a spectacular week exploring the dramatic fjords of Southeast Alaska aboard the M/V David B. Massive tidewater glaciers, icebergs, waterfalls and wildlife galore including a chance to photograph the grizzly bears of Admiralty Island, one of the prime bear-watching sites in the world. In-depth workshop on digital shooting, editing and postprocessing, private staterooms & gourmet meals. Limited to Six Passengers. www.adventuresnw.com/ photo-workshops
- Tech Shirts for All Participants - Customized Finisher Medals for All Events - Personalized Participant Bibs - Free Race Photos - Finish Line Celebration
Sunday April 14, 2019 Oak Harbor, WA Register Now at
RunWhidbey.com Run for a day, play for a weekend! >>> VIew or download even MORE Race|Play|Experience
22 June 2019 (cont.) - 29 September 2019
JUNE 2019 >>>
AUGUST 2019 >>>
Saturday, 22 June
Sunday, 25 August
RUN/WALK Padden Triathlon––Lake Padden, 8:30 am – 3:30 pm. The best bang for your triathlon dollar.
RUN/WALK Run the Rock Marathon, Half & 8k––Shelter Point Park, 7:00 am – 1:00 pm. Enjoy a small rural event on beautiful BC Gulf Island and experience our Island lifestyle
JULY 2019 >>> Saturday-Saturday, 20-27 July SPECIAL Adventures NW Photography Workshop & Tour––Glacier Bay, Jul 20, 11:00 am – Jul 27, 1:00 pm. Join Adventures NW for a spectacular week in Glacier Bay aboard the M/V David B. The David B goes places that are off-limits to the big ships, allowing us the chance to get up close and personal with one of America’s most awe-inspiring National Parks. Phenomenal scenery, whales, bears, and lots of stunning blue ice! In-depth workshop on digital shooting, editing and post-processing, private staterooms & gourmet meals. Limited to Six Passengers. www.adventuresnw. com/photo-workshops
SEPTEMBER 2019 >>> Friday-Sunday, 6-8 September SPECIAL Adventures NW North Cascades Photo Workshop––North Cascades Institute, Sep 6, 4:00 pm – Sep 8, 1:00 pm. Join Adventures NW for a 3-day photography workshop in North Cascades National Park at the North Cascades Institute on beautiful Diablo Lake. In this hands-on workshop we’ll focus on digital shooting techniques and editing our images using Adobe Lightroom. Includes classroom instruction, image printing and a field trip into the heart of the North Cascades. A chance to take your photography to the next level in a spectacularly beautiful place. www. adventuresnw.com/photo-workshops
Thursday-Sunday, 26-29 September SPECIAL Adventures NW San Juan Islands Photography Workshop & Tour––San Juan Islands, Sep 26, 9:00 am – Sep 29, 5:00 pm. Join Adventures NW for a 4-day photography workshop in the beautiful San Juan Islands aboard the M/V David B. We’ll explore this picturesque archipelago, photographing
the magical land- and seascapes (including amazing sculpted sandstone formations), and abundant wildlife, and visiting lonely, otherwise inaccessible beaches on shore excursions. Take your photography to the next level with us! In-depth workshop on digital shooting, editing and post-processing, private staterooms & gourmet meals. Limited to Six Passengers. www.adventuresnw.com/ photo-workshops ANW
FIND Adventures NW is available free at hundreds of locations region-wide: throughout
Whatcom, Skagit, San Juan, and Island counties, at select spots in Snohomish, King, and Pierce counties, and in Leavenworth, the Methow Valley, Spokane, and Wenatchee. The magazine is also available at REI locations across Washington and Oregon as well as at numerous locations in the Vancouver, BC metro area, at races and events, at area visitor centers.
SUBSCRIBE Receive Adventures NW via mail anywhere in the US or Canada. Visit AdventuresNW.com/subscribe for subscription info.
ADVERTISE Let Adventures NW magazine help you reach a diverse, receptive
audience throughout the Pacific Northwest, and be part of one of the most valued and engaging publications in the region. Info is at AdventuresNW.com/advertise or by writing to ads @ AdventuresNW.com.
CONTRIBUTE Adventures NW welcomes original article queries—including feature stories, expert advice, photo essays, the Next Adventure shot, etc. For information: AdventuresNW.com/contribute.
EVENTS Have your outdoor-related event, race or public outing listed in the quarterly
Race|Play|Experience calendar and in our comprehensive on-line version. Visit AdventuresNW.com/submit-your-event to post events or contact ads @ AdventuresNW. com for details.
360.676.1977 • www.lithtexnw.com
event listings at AdventuresNW.com
RACE | PLAY | EXPERIENCE
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Adventure
A Starry Night at Artist Point photo by KEN HARRISON On a beautiful, crystal clear evening, I set out in late afternoon with the intention of getting some photographs of the Milky Way from Artist Point, an ideal vantage point situated between Mt. Baker and Mt. Shuksan in the North Cascades. My tent, illuminated by a Lucci light, provided a perfect foreground for the mind-boggling spangle of stars. 50
The heartbeat of Cascadia
Should I follow my head, or my heart? For some of life’s questions, you’re not alone.
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ubs.com/fs by different laws and separate contracts. For more information on the distinctions between our brokerage and investment advisory services, please speak with your Financial Advisor or visit our website at ubs.com/workingwithus. ©UBS 2017. All rights reserved. UBS Financial Services Inc. is a subsidiary of UBS AG. Member FINRA/SIPC. D-UBS-83DBB382