Adventures NW Magazine Fall 2014

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the enchantments golden lakes mt. st. helens running clubs robert michael pyle cascades white water exploring desolation sound climbing the prophet & the saint >>> EXTENSIVE OUTDOOR EVENTS CALENDAR INSIDE

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CONTRIBUTORS

FALL | 2014 Volume 9. Issue 3 Cami Ostman is the author of Second Wind: One Woman’s Midlife Quest to Run Seven Marathons on Seven Continents and is a longstanding member of the Greater Bellingham Running Club. She is a traveler, runner, writing-coach, and the co-director of the Wind Horse Half Marathon (which raises funds for one of Bellingham’s sister cities). She lives in Bellingham, Washington.

Buff Black is drawn to both the wilderness and the metropolis. His northwest landscapes and adventure shots are published in Adventures NW and Washington Trails magazines. Be on the lookout for Buff’s upcoming fall show at the legendary Colophon Cafe, and visit his online gallery (under construction) at buffblack.com.

Rick Dubrow co-owns and co-operates A-1 Builders and Adaptations Design Studio in Bellingham with his wife Cindi Landreth.

Settling here from the northeast in large part for our fabulous hiking opportunities, his life-long passion remains immersion in wilderness. Get him at or above the sub-alpine zone and he’s a happy camper… high and outside.

Robert Michael Pyle writes from an old Swedish farmstead on a tributary of the Lower Columbia. His eighteen books include Wintergreen, Chasing Monarchs, Evolution of the Genus Iris: Poems, and several standard butterfly books. He loves to canoe tidewater rivers and to hike among the butterflies of alpine meadows and rockslides.

Bob Kandiko migrated to the Pacific Northwest for graduate studies at UBC in Vancouver. The life of an outdoor vagabond seemed more attractive than a Ph.D so he bought a camper van, became a teacher and met Karen Neubauer.

He never has enough maps for his next adventure.

A former mountain climber, Joel Litwin was attracted to the heavily glaciated North Cascades, though he now prefers less life-threatening pursuits. Joel is a professional musician, marketing guy, photographer and graphic designer, and plays center on his rec-league ice hockey team, which is only occasionally life-threatening. His photography/design website is redcandle.net.

Christine Smith is the chef and naturalist aboard a tour boat that cruises in the San Juan Islands and Alaska. When not cruising the Inside Passage, Christine spends her time trail running, skiing, bird-watching and tending to her two cats, Oswald and Harriet. Learn more about her adventures at northwestnavigation.com.

When he is not trying in vain to keep his camera dry on Cascades rapids, Aaron Theisen lives and plays in Spokane, Wash. He is currently working on Day Hiking Mount St. Helens, to be published by Mountaineers Books.

COVER PHOTO: Sahale Arm by John D’Onofrio

A Look Ahead: As you look to protect and grow your wealth, it’s important to work with a firm that has a unique global perspective, translated through the relevant and trusted advice of a Financial Advisor. Together, we’ll craft your own unique plan, and work with you every step of the way to help you achieve it—on your terms.

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David J. Mauro, CFP® First Vice President - Investments Phone 360-714-2550 104 Unity Street, Bellingham, WA 98225-4418 As a firm providing wealth management services to clients, we offer both investment advisory and brokerage services. These services are separate and distinct, differ in material ways and are governed by different laws and separate contracts. For more information on the distinctions between our brokerage and investment advisory services, please speak with your Financial Advisor or visit our website at ubs.com/workingwithus. Neither UBS Financial Services Inc. nor any of its employees provides legal or tax advice. You should consult with your personal legal or tax advisor regarding your personal circumstances. UBS Financial Services Inc. is a subsidiary of UBS AG. ©2011 UBS Financial Services Inc. All rights reserved. Member SIPC.31.17_Ad_4.625x3.625_9G0204

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Our Winter Issue Helen Thayer Storm Watching Backcountry Maui Kayaking Dungeness

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INSPIRATIONS IN THIS ISSUE

What’s in a Name?

Explorations in Desolation Sound

Completing the Circle Twice around Mt. St. Helens

Four Days, Four Rivers Celebrating Cascades Whitewater

Christine Smith

10

Rick Dubrow

14

Aaron Theisen

20

The Magic of the Equinox Images of Autumn Buff Black Journey to Aasgard Across the Enchantments

A Sense of Belonging In Praise of Ruinning Clubs

Grand Larchery Hiking the Golden Lakes Loop

The Prophet & The Saint No Pain, No Gain

24

Joel Litwin

28

Cami Ostman

32

John D’Onofrio

36

Bob Kandiko

42

“ It is not enough to fight for the land; it is even more important to enjoy it. While you can. While it is still there. So get out there and mess around with your friends, ramble out yonder and explore the forests, encounter the grizz, climb the mountains. Run the rivers, breathe deep of that yet sweet and lucid air, sit quietly for a while and contemplate the precious stillness, that lovely, mysterious and awesome space...”

- Edward Abbey Trouble in Paradise Out & About eARTh: The Art of Nature Cascadia Gear Race | Play | Experience Calendar Advertiser Index Next Adventure

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Photo by John D’Onofrio

DESTINATIONS

Life’s A Journey, Enjoy The Ride. www.wibank.com www.heritagebanknw.com

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Trouble in Paradise O

n a recent backpacking trip on Skyline Divide, I found myself climbing through the woods behind a group of 50 teenagers out on a church group outing.

The group size limit in wilderness areas like Skyline is 12, but these folks either didn’t know that or chose to ignore it. I observed exuberant teens running and sliding through the fragile wildflowers, leaving destruction in their wake that will take years to heal.

Now Skyline Divide is one of the most popular trails around Mt. Baker and one doesn’t come here for solitude, but the throng on the trail was overwhelming - and eye-opening. Up on the ridge, camps were established on every flat space (including on heather gardens) and many visitors had dogs with them, none of which were on a leash. This may explain why one no longer sees marmots on the divide.

I can say unequivocally that everyone’s wilderness experience was diminished and the trampled wildflower gardens and lack of wildlife speak for themselves.

This experience got me thinking about the ever-increasing use of our trails. Over the years, I’ve received feedback from readers questioning the wisdom of “promoting” the wilderness. For some, there are already too many people. But I believe that the preservation of our wild lands lies - incongruously perhaps - in getting people to experience it firsthand, creating connections with the natural world. It is all too easy to lose sight of the basic “truths” of our place on this planet if all we experience are manufactured landscapes. It is my hope and belief that when folks make the effort to visit the wilderness they have the opportunity to become advocates for these wildlands. And wilderness needs all the advocates it can get.

On the other hand, as more people visit the backcountry, the pressures on the land grow. Too much of this pressure has the potential to strip away the very attributes that make the wilderness what it is. Crowds can diminish the ability to connect with the land, and all too often, turn pristine country into something like an alpine theme park. It may be nice to look at. But it is no longer wilderness.

It seems obvious that more and more people are seeking a “wilderness experience” and thus, managing the lands to accommodate this recreation must be balanced with conservation. It’s a quandary for land management agencies.

Many areas have instituted permit systems and/or quotas to limit and control use. One example is the popular Enchantment Lakes area within the Alpine Lakes Wilderness in the Central Cascades, which, by the 70’s was in danger of being loved to death. In 1981 the Alpine Lakes Wilderness Plan established a

stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.

quota of 60 people in the core area. Today, getting one of those 60 permits requires entering a lottery and hoping for the best.

This system is unpopular with many hikers but was necessitated by ever-increasing demand. Without it, it seems clear that the both the quality of the land - and the user experience - would have been profoundly degraded.

Is it time to start a permitting system for the trails around Mt. Baker? Perhaps.

North Cascades National Park does require backcountry permits but the Mt. BakerSnoqualmie National Forest (which includes most of the trails around Mt. Baker) allows backpackers to self-register at trail heads.

A first step might be to require hikers to pick up permits at one of the Forest Service contact stations (for example, the Glacier Public Service Center on the Mt. Baker Highway in Glacier). This would create an opportunity for management staff to communicate the basic ethics of wilderness travel to hikers.

The carrying capacity of the land is obviously greater when the users are sensitive to the fragility of the environment. Camping on heather, for example, quickly destroys the alpine meadows.

Leashing dogs gives the wildlife a fighting chance.

Of course, funding for these land management agencies is in critically short supply and the additional resources needed to support a permitting system are not presently available. But as a society, it is incumbent upon us to divert resources to address issues that have the potential to do irrevocable damage. Once the wilderness is trashed, it is no longer wilderness. Unless action is taken soon, it will be too late.

So sure, you can grumble about permits and regulations and the government in general but without these, wilderness wouldn’t exist in the 21st century. Times change and like it or not, so must we.

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Out&About

Epic Fun in the San Juan Islands

The San Juans are a magical place to visit at any time of the year but over the next few months, this idyllic archipelago will be abuzz with some of the Pacific Northwest’s most unique adventure races.

The 16th annual Steve Braun Memorial Triathlon will take place on August 31 at beautiful Moran State Park on Orcas Island. This venerable event consists of a 1/2-mile swim in Cascade Lake, 15-mile bike ride on the island’s scenic roads, and 3.5-mile run on a trail around the lake. An option also exists to do ‘the Braun’ as a duathlon if you want to skip the swim. Early bird registration is available at a discount or you can register the day of the Tri from 7:30 - 8:30 am. The starting gun sounds at 9 am.

Proceeds benefit Friends of Moran State Park, an organization whose mis-

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sion is to support park staff at this amazing state park. This aid includes educational outreach efforts, funding for the Moran Creek Hatchery; and the printing of trail maps and an internship program at the Summit Learning Center.

Runner at Cascade Lake Photo by Martin Taylor

‘The Braun’ has established itself as a northwest classic and now in its 16th year, is bigger and better than ever. More info at www.friendsofmoran.com/sbmt.

On September 27, adventurous

spirits can test their mettle at the San Juan Island Quest. The Quest is a different kind of race, according to Todd Elsworth, Executive Director of Recreation Northwest.

“The course is a secret until a half hour before the race,” he explains. “That’s part of the fun!”

The Quest consists of three components - trekking/ trail running, mountain biking, and sea kayaking. For each section, there are a series of checkpoints. “The checkpoints are positioned in such a way that it takes some smarts to put the pieces together,” Elsworth says. “There isn’t really a course, just trails that connect checkpoints.”

The quest was founded

by Brent Molsbury in 2009 who continues as Race Director and his creative fingerprints are all over the event. Last year he introduced a bike polo segment where teams had to use croquet mallets to move a ball

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everything from paying the electricity bill at our office, to ordering racers’ tshirts, to organizing and conducting race committee meetings, to setting up traffic cones on the day of the race.

ANW: What are your outdoor proclivities?

CA: I enjoy running the trail systems near my house in Bellingham in the mornings. I also participate in a number of 5K’s throughout the year, with the occasional half-marathon here and there. I also enjoy all the opportunities for hiking that Whatcom County has to offer.

ANW: What is the coolest part of your job?

CA: Seeing the smiling faces of racers once they’ve completed their event.

The days leading up the event can be quite busy and hectic. But when race day finally happens, even though I’m often operating on little sleep and am physically exhausted, I’m always in a fantastic mood because all of the hard work leading up to the event is paying off. ANW

Curtis Anson

CA: My official title at Whatcom Events is Assistant Race Director. My predecessor had described the position as “chief cook and bottle washer”, which in a lot of ways is true. My job includes

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Curtis Anson is the new Assistant Race Director at Whatcom Events, the local organization responsible for some of the biggest races in the region including Ski to Sea, Muds to Suds, and Tour de Whatcom. We caught up with Anson recently and took the opportunity to learn more about his new role at Whatcom Events.

ANW: When did you first become involved with Whatcom Events/Ski to Sea and in what capacity?

CA: Before having any involvement with Whatcom Events in a professional capacity, I was a long-time Ski to Sea enthusiast and participant in the race. When I was a senior at Western Washington University, I came across an opportunity for an internship at Whatcom Events as the Equipment Coordinator for the Ski to Sea Race.

Whatcom Events actually has a wonderful internship program for WWU College of Business & Economics seniors, which I was fortunate to take advantage of.

Last spring I received a phone call from my former supervisor at Whatcom Events, Mel Monkelis, telling me he was stepping down from his position.

He wanted to know if I was interested

•

A New Face at Whatcom Events

in his job. I was quite honored that I was even considered. After a couple of rounds of interviews with the Whatcom Events Board of Directors, I was offered the position.

ANW: What is your title there?

eCUaDOR

through wickets. Clearly, the San Juan Island Quest is in a league of its own. More info at www.recreationnorthwest.org/quest-adventure-races/ san-juan-island-quest/

THE

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www.bagelrybellingham.com stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.

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What’s in a Name?

Powerful Moments in Desolation Sound Story and Photos by Christine Smith

J

effrey carefully maneuvered our boat, the David B, so that its bow inched towards the waterfall. His intention was to give the foredeck a good washing. It was his way of multi-tasking - clean the deck and impress the guests. My intention was to stay on deck as long as possible to get a few good pictures. We were spending a few days in Desolation Sound, and today was dedicated to cruising in Toba Inlet, one of several deep water, high-sided fjords in the area with waterfalls in all shapes, sizes and heights.

As the boat neared the falls, I could feel the spray on my face. Our guests who were standing at the bow had already retreated to the warm, dry pilothouse.

The sound of the waterfall grew, as did its apparent size, and I began to wonder if this was really such a good idea. I looked back at Jeffrey. He was happily chatting with the guests, and carefully checking our position and the amount of water that was starting to spill onto the deck. The waterfall, in spite of its cascading grandeur was unnamed on the chart. I craned my neck to see the top of the waterfall, which was easily more than double the height of the David B’s mast, which stands 41 feet above the water. The top of the cascade made a 10

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But what we really come for is the warm hard right turn that caused the water to water for swimming that often gets to 70˚ crash and rooster tail before falling down Fahrenheit in the summer. the steep cliff face into water that was After we pulled away from the waterroughly a hundred and fifty-feet deep. fall, we turned around to make our way to I lifted my camera to get a picture, but the mist in the air was too much for my lens, and almost too thick for me to breathe. I retreated to the back of the boat. The mist became a fog and it was hard to see the bow of the boat. The David B is sixty-five feet long and from my view point, the bow was about fifty feet away. Water crashed down on the deck, washing it clean. I then heard Jeffrey shift into reverse, and soon felt us backing away. I walked Desolation Sound Anchorage past the pilothouse door to see him grinning from ear-to-ear. “Deck’s Waddington Channel and Walsh Cove. It clean,” he said. was a place I’d wanted to visit in the hopes It was a powerful moment in a place of seeing ancient pictographs that I had where water is a part of everything. It read about. It was early evening when we laps against shorelines and rushes down anchored, and Jeffrey readied the skiff. mountain sides. In its form as ice, it made After some searching, we found the rock the fjords and carved the islands. Rain water is held on the needles of cedar, spruce, hemlock and fir trees, and drips slowly to the soil below where it’s then held by ferns, mosses, fungus, and soil.

It holes up in lakes and spills out in the form of creeks. Water makes Desolation Sound a breathtaking destination.

When Captain George Vancouver first visited Desolation Sound in 1792, he claimed that there was, “nothing pleasing to the eye.” I suspect it may have been raining, and Capt. Van must have been in West coast’s largest bareboat charter sailing fleet and a sour mood, because every visit I’ve had sailing school. Local ownership, personalized service! to Desolation Sound has been nothing but pleasing to my eyes. The Sound begins at the northern end of the Sunshine Coast in British Columbia and is the most northern part of the Salish Sea. It is well-known as a cruising destination in the boating community. It’s a little like the San Juan Islands and Gulf Islands, only more remote, more rugged, and more scenic. The draws for boaters are the numerous well-protected anchorages; the plentiful prawns, crab, oysters and wildlife; and marine and mountain views. stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.

art on a cliff - one drawing was an ancient face with wide eyes and a gaping mouth painted in red ocher, and nearby, we saw what looked like the form of an octopus.

I thought back to Vancouver’s dismal observation, and then thought about the riches of the waters of Desolation Sound that sustained countless generations of First Nations people.

I’ve long been fascinated with First Nations cultures and how they lived prior to European contact and I’m always looking for signs of how they procured their food. I’d picked up a book

by Judith Williams called Clam Gardens: Aboriginal Mariculture on Canada’s West Coast. In it, she describes how aboriginal people cultivated clams by building low rock walls. These clam gardens were built in the lower intertidal zone and are subtle in shape and easily missed. One time in Desolation Sound, we were treated to a stay at a private dock.

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At low-tide we walked the beach with buckets and hand rakes. As I’d knelt down to scratch the surface of the sand and shellcovered beach for clams, I’d wondered how many generations of people had been there before me, and if that beach had long ago been cultivated. While I looked at the pictographs, I contemplated this and thought back to the dinner I’d made from those clams with a butter, garlic, and wine broth. So much food comes from the Sound in the form of crabs, shrimp, oysters, clams, mussels and fish.

Anyone who knows me, knows that my favorite place on any boat is in the galley, and my favorite time of day is early morning. On the David B, I’m often the only one up between 5:00 and 6:00 am. I like to drink my first cup of coffee alone in the quiet. I love to watch birds and listen to their calls. In Walsh Cove, I watched a mother common merganser take her babies from one side of the cove to another. She kept the young ones close to her and several times sounded an alarm

call when a bald eagle flew overhead. The baby birds immediately responded to their mother and huddled close to her.

They made it to a small island and swam out of sight. Then, not long after they disappeared, a red-throated loon emited a mournful cry and several of my favorite birds - black oystercatchers - came whistling in for a landing on a point of land. I love watching these goofy-looking, noisy black birds, with their long bright orange beaks and pink legs as they prod their beaks into mussels.

Most of our visits to Desolation Sound have been in the off-season, so the first time we visited in the late summer, we were surprised by the number of boats in the anchorages. It seemed like every boat in British Columbia and Washington was anchored with us in a cove called Prideaux Haven. Boats were stern-tied to the shore so close to each other that all that was missing was white parking lot lines between them. Luckily there was one spot big enough for the David B. It was a little

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bit of a shock for us after spending two months fairly isolated in Alaska with very few other boats around, but soon, we got into the spirit of this popular destination and I had my first swim in Desolation Sound. I was prepared for heart-stopping cold water, but as I dove in, I discovered it was the perfect temperature. Later I sat on deck and watched a parade of skiffs cruising the harbor, sometimes rafted together three or four at once. Most had stereos playing and as they’d pass by the David B, they’d raise a glass. I would raise mine back. Desolation Sound’s Prideaux Haven is a neighborly Margaritaville-North. It was fun and festive, and I almost forgot that I was in Canada, until sunset, when someone with bagpipes played Amazing Grace. I had chills as I listened to the pipes echo, and watched the alpenglow paint the snow-capped mountains that provide the backdrop of this picture perfect anchorage. When the piper finished, the harbor erupted with cheers and the sounds of horns from boats of all kinds.

Water in all of its forms is everywhere in Desolation Sound. Once, while poking

Under a Waterfall, Toba Inlet

along a trail to a small lake I came across some really rusty old logging equipment. I

was struck by how it was being reclaimed by nature. I spent a long time photographing the old machine and thinking about the irony of how this machine that once took from the forest was now being rusted and taken by the rain and the very elements it once ravished. I was intrigued by the way mosses and ferns grew from its parts, and how its discarded chain was slowly sinking into the soft boggy soil. As I poked around, I could hear the sound of moving water.

I followed a lesser trail towards the sound, and discovered a sweet little waterfall tucked away in the darkest part of the forest. Its white cascade contrasted with the deep dark color of the forest soil and emerald green moss. It was not so grand as the waterfall in Toba Inlet, but emblematic of the beauty here as it hurried its way down from the freshwater lake to the saltwater sound that Captain Vancouver saw as remote and desolate with nothing to offer. Maybe it was raining too hard for him to see the beauty of the waters.

ANW

mountain time, beach time, family time Connect with nature, connect with yourself as you hike, ski, climb, slide, and relax your way into memories you and your family will treasure for years to come.

bakerbirchbay.com | 360.599.1518 stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.

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Completing the Twice Around Mt. St. Helens

Story by Rick Dubrow

Y

es, it took two tries. Our first attempt, in 2012, to circumambulate Mt. St. Helens ended with a helicopter rescue. A year later my stalwart hiking buddy Mitch Greenberg and I successfully completed the 34-mile Loowit Trail around the ‘great hole’. My nickname, anyway.

I’ve climbed St. Helens at least 18 times since it erupted. Never before it blew. Smart, huh? Although I had reached the top of many northwest volcanoes, I had yet to bag pre-1980 St. Helens. The May 18, 1980 eruption meant that I never would. As soon as the great hole was open to climbers, I wanted to stand on the rim. I’ve returned nearly every year since then, usually dragging along a posse of Bellingham locals, many of whom have become addicted regulars to this annual journey.

Why return so often to the same 14

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damn place? What’s the addiction, er … attraction?

34 years ago this great earth relieved itself of a whole hell of a lot of pressure, creating the largest landslide in recorded history. The rim, the dome, and the breach continue to breathe and morph and heave. Whether it’s summiting the rim or experiencing Loowit Falls, the very spillway from the crater, there’s change afoot. And afoot is how I want to experience such change, year after year. I want to touch and feel a 34-year old ecosystem born of relief, powerful beyond measure, resting, for now, in our own backyard.

So I return almost every year.

Two summers ago, though, it was time to tackle my first circumambulation; I hadn’t walked completely around a mountain before, and it was fitting to try the Loowit Trail, given how attached I’d become to this special place since it blew.

Day One

Our first try around the great hole started from the climbers bivouac, base camp for most summer climbers heading for the rim. With me were Mitch Greenberg (first cousin, paramedic/ firefighter), Josh Geller (best friend from college days at MIT), and Anna Knutson (Josh’s girlfriend). My research had suggested a clockwise path, using the climbers bivouac as the insertion point, offering the least rugged leg of the Loowit to get underway.

Day One proved otherwise. Rugged boulder hopping - very challenging for Anna. S-L-O-W moving; easy place to twist an ankle or do a face plant on very rough, large volcanic boulders. At about mile six of a planned eight-mile first day, hoping to camp at a difficult-to-find pond just past Sheep Canyon Creek, Mitch began complaining about his left knee. Never before had he experienced a >>> Go to AdventuresNW.com

to read ANW

Circle Photo by Brett Baunton

knee problem, but we took it seriously as it continued to deteriorate.

Rest, nibble, sip. Didn’t help.

Continuous deterioration. We checked the map and brainstormed alternatives.

Anticipating the upcoming trail guidedescribed water source, we drank the last of what we had.

Reaching the expected site of the pond, we were now concerned about losing daylight. We could go off-trail to search for the pond but we’d lose vital light, and if we couldn’t find this water it would be critical to walk the two additional miles to the South Fork of the Toutle River. We chose to go for the dependable Toutle… without water and with Mitch’s painful knee.

Those two miles proved tortuous for Mitch. And as his left knee worsened, his right knee also became painful and progressively worsened. We took weight out of his pack and slowed down as best we could, sacrificing precious light. About stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.

a mile from the Toutle, Mitch reported a ten-out-of-ten pain reading on his left side, this from a guy very much aware of his body and sports medicine.

Something positive grew out of what was now affecting both knees: the realization that in all probability he was experiencing something systemic, since injuring both knees simultaneously was improbable. At a gut level Mitch voiced his theory that his ailment resulted from too little resting, nibbling and sipping.

Although I couldn’t quite buy into his theory, given the great amount of pain he voiced, I hoped that he was correct.

Here’s the rub: Since he’s a paramedic, we defaulted to his suggestion to continue walking to the Toutle. In retrospect, since he was the victim, we shouldn’t have relied upon his decision-making. Looking back on it, we should have stopped walking, even if it meant sleeping in our bags right on the trail. Two of us could have hiked for water and returned by headlamp.

As the last light faded, we reached the South Fork. Well, almost. We were on a small, level bench perhaps 50 vertical feet above the river. Mitch, pain free when not walking, set up camp with Anna, while Josh and I went on ahead and filled up all of our water bottles.

Over dinner Mitch shared his belief that his knees were shot; that days of rest, right here, would not facilitate his ability to walk out. So we decided to sleep on it; to decide our next steps come sunrise.

Day 2

Mitch awoke certain that he needed to be carried out; he feared that he had blown out both knees and such an injury could threaten his career and any future working out or hiking. Given the terrain, we knew that being carried out on a stretcher was impossible. A chopper was the only way.

911 was the ticket out of this predicament - if either of our two cell phones race | play | experience

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be aloft.

We prepared the site for a chopper extraction, something Mitch was trained to do - but not as a victim! Once the site was ready, I climbed 1,200 vertical feet to a spot along the trail, hoping for a cell signal with the David Johnston Observatory.

It worked - I got a clear signal to 911.

Moments later I was talking with the chopper dispatcher, just as I started to hear the low-frequency, base-drumming of the far-off chopper, clearly heading in the wrong direction.

Finally the chopper pilot reacted to my input to the dispatcher Locally owned since 2004 and started heading back towards 2 Locations in Bellingham our campsite, • NW Ave and I5 - exit 257 eventually landing • James St. - next to Trader Joe’s on some very tenu4 time “Best Of...” ous ground so that award winner Mitch wouldn’t www.labelsconsignment.com have to endure a

worked. But the connection was poor and sporadic, and it was unclear how much the dispatcher heard. Try as we might, we couldn’t communicate additional information.

Over the next hour or so, two hikers passed going in opposite directions.

One of them would be back to their car in about three or four hours; the other about seven or eight. So we sent out the relevant information with both hikers knowing that eventually a chopper would

Cute, Current, Clean Consignment!

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litter extraction.

As you might imagine, Josh, Anna and I walked out - the same way we came in - the very next day.

Twelve Months Later This time it was just Mitch and I, back on the mountain for another attempt at circumambulation. One attempt was enough for Josh and Anna. Mitch had recovered. He had seen physicians, did PT, trained and trained; no recurrence anywhere near as bad. A few times he reported what might be a one on a one-to-ten pain scale. Done; kaput. Must have been too little rest, nibble and sip.

Mitch and I were determined to circle the great hole. Sure, he was anxious about his knee, but round two was flawless.

Further research had led to our insertion onto the Loowit at the Windy Pass trailhead instead, again clockwise. Indeed, start there if you take on the Loowit. The first day is far, far easier than inserting at the climbers bivouac.

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Although most folks do the 34 -mile journey in three days, we were prepared for six, allowing for plenty of time to smell the roses. Yeah, right… roses amidst the desolate Loowit?

Well, sort of. Amidst miles and miles of moonscape we came upon several palces where springs found their way to the surface, empowering explosions of outrageous wildflowers. Each oasis compelled us to rest, relax and, indeed, smell the roses.

While much of the route walks through scenes obliterated on May 18, 34 years ago, other sections were seemingly untouched. These areas range from traditional forests to mud flows, worm flows and debris fields from prior eruptions, some ancient.

The trail’s final third is the ‘restricted zone’ - the blast area - a 10-mile wide stretch in which no camping is permitted due to its fragility and sensitivity. It’s here, if you’re lucky, that you’ll run into herds of Roosevelt Elk like we did.

A Sparkling ‘Oasis’

Photo by Rick Dubrow

In places, the terrain looks like it was torn apart just yesterday. Not a landscape that’s been slowly eroded by a babbling brook but one torn, blasted, and ripped

apart by forces that get inside of you as you touch its aftermath. The breach. The restricted zone. Loowit Falls: draining one of the world’s increasingly rare, growing glaciers, a bagel-shaped mass of ice that now surrounds the dome inside the crater.

You owe it to yourself to know this place. It is a place seductive enough to bring Mitch back to try a second time around.

Circumambulate. Feel the nourishment of walking completely around a place so raw, so near, so violent… yet at the same time, so peaceful. Desolation and oasis. Volcanic dust and rocks. A living, heaving planet.

And we’re not talking about a lot of elevation gain. Six thousand feet of vertical gain over 34 miles, walking in a band around the great hole that ranges in elevation from 3,500 to 4,700 vertical feet. Up ‘n down some, sure. High and outside, no doubt. Around?

One hopes.

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“This is perfect cross training for any sport.”

“I love this! The hour flies by. I am soaked in sweat and feel fantastic.”

“I’ve lost ten pounds and I have ten to go.”

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Four Days, Four Rivers Story and photos

by Aaron Theisen

An Introduction to Cascades Whitewater

T

he first European trappers and traders to navigate the lower reaches of the Columbia River between present-day Washington and Oregon had to contend with the all-but-unnavigable Cascades Rapids, which dropped forty feet in two miles. So impressive were those rapids that the massive mountain range on either side was named, not for any feature of the peaks themselves, but for their proximity to this canoe-swamping cataract. In the two hundred years since, big water has continued to define the Cascade Range, and whitewater enthusiasts can now experience it in a unique four-day, four-river adventure.

Rafters paddle through splashy Class III rapids

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Four Cascades rivers, with four distinct personalities - the Wenatchee, a beginner-friendly river and the state’s most popular whitewater destination; the lightly traveled Methow, rolling through the pine- and sage-studded lower Methow Valley; the Wild and Scenic Sauk, its distinct green glacier-fed rapids bordered on both sides by wilderness; and the Skykomish, the “Wild

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Sky”, one of the state’s premier whitewater experiences - will thrill first-timers and river rats alike. Only two hours’ drive time separate each river, so boaters can maximize their time on the water. And unlike most multi-day, one-river trips, boaters can relax with a bed and a beer in some of the state’s finest accommodations before another full day on the water.

DAY 1, WENATCHEE RIVER The most popular whitewater rafting river in Washington, the Wenatchee River travels through sandstone canyons, ponderosa parkland and orchards east of Leavenworth on the sunny east slope of the Central Cascades. The Wenatchee’s riverbed of glacial-ground sandstone looks like a dimpled golf ball; the large volume of water pouring through

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the watercourse during each spring’s snowmelt flushes all the boulders out.

The result: a classic, largely hazard-free “pool and drop” river consisting of short stretches of rapids - “Rock and Roll”, “Snowblind” and “Granny’s Panties” among others - following by lengthy breath-catching flat stretches of water.

That makes the Wenatchee a great river for first-timers - and provides plenty of opportunities for raft games. The rules vary, but the end result is always the same: someone’s going for a swim. The flatwater stretches also give boaters time to watch osprey and eagles fish the river and to admire Mount Stuart towering over the surprisingly green scenery to the west.

The 14-mile route from Leavenworth to Cashmere is largely developed; similar to other raft trips, boaters will pass second

homes and orchards and even one irrigation-dam portage. But boaters will be too busy crashing through rapids or splashing their friends to notice.

Getting there: The most popular put-in for a long day is in Leavenworth. Take East Leavenworth Road just under a mile to the large parking area and put-in. Take out at grassy Riverside State Park in Cashmere.

Guide: Orion Expeditions is the longest-running rafting outfitter in Washington (leavenworthriverrafting.com).

Post-float: Just outside Leavenworth on Icicle Creek, Run of the River Inn and Refuge offers quiet and luxurious accommodations on grounds bordering a state wildlife refuge (runoftheriver.com). Stop in at the Tumwater Inn in Leavenworth for casual family-oriented German fare (509.548.4232).

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Getting wet is guaranteed

DAY 2, METHOW RIVER From Leavenworth, drive two hours north on Highway 97 to the pine- and sage-studded scenery of the lower Methow River valley. Although not nearly as popular as the Wenatchee, the Methow River should be: Few floats are as fun and splashy as the 16-mile stretch of the sun-soaked lower Methow from McFarland Creek to just upstream of Pateros. Although infrequently floated, the Methow River provides plenty of whitewater thrills while still being suitable for first-timers. Like the Wenatchee, the Methow passes through private farmland on its way to its confluence with the Columbia, but here vacation homes have yet to replace vineyards.

From the McFarland Creek access on State Highway 153, the lower Methow The emerald-green Sauk River flows through continuous Class III/IV rapids

lulls with several miles of splashy class II rapids before the wave trains and big holes of Black Canyon’s class III-IV rapids. First-timers can negotiate “Another Roadside Attraction”, “Zero Hour” and “Black Canyon” but river rats will find plenty to play in at high water; the lower Methow is in many a guide’s secret stash.

Getting there: The put-in for the 16mile lower Methow run is at McFarland Creek upstream of mile marker 14 on Highway 153. Take-out is one mile upstream from the junction of Highways 153 and 97, near Pateros.

Guide: Relaxed, yet highly professional guides at Outdoor Adventure Center will ensure you have a safe, fun trip.

Post-float: Soak sore shoulders in the hot tubs at the Chewuch Inn (chewuchinn. com) in Winthrop. Stop by Arrowleaf Bistro for hand-cut steaks and great cocktails (arrowleafbistro.com).

DAY 3, SAUK RIVER After a night’s stay in Winthrop, drive west over the North Cascades Highway to Highway 530 and the timber town of Darrington on the

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Sauk River.

Bordered on much of its length by wilderness, the Sauk River provides a true get-away-from-it-all river experience.

Maples and cedars drape over the granitebouldered shore and Three Fingers, White Chuck and Whitehorse Mountain hover over the river. The largest tributary of the Skagit River and part of the Skagit Wild and Scenic River System, the Sauk derives its signature emerald-green hue from glacial silts - the river is fed from ice in the Glacier Peak Wilderness. No (intentional) swimming in this river; the sub40 degree water is good motivation to stay in the raft. The Sauk consists of continuous class III+/ IV rapids. Unlike the pool-anddrop rapids of the Wenatchee, the Sauk provides scant recovery time between rapids; boulders, big holes and strainers will test paddlers’ focus, particularly in “Jaws” and “Whirlpool”. Near

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the take-out, a short side hike up Clear Creek accesses a clear, deep swimming spot. Backflips optional.

Getting there: Put in at White Chuck Campground near the Sauk River bridge on the Mountain Loop Highway. A popular take-out is at Bachman County Park, just off the Mountain Loop Highway less than two miles south of Darrington.

Guide: Outdoor Adventure Center.

Accommodations: Backtrack to the

Buffalo Run Inn and Restaurant on the North Cascades Highway in Marblemount for cozy accommodations and a buffalo steak, medium rare (buffaloruninn.com).

DAY 4, NORTH FORK SKYKOMISH RIVER

From Marblemount, drive two hours south on Highway 530 and Highway 2 to the tiny Central Cascades gateway community of Index.

The mainstem Skykomish River and its forks boast one of Washington’s premier whitewater trips. The mainstem’s The North Fork Skykomish high water volume can be flows through the heart of the Henry M. Jackson Wilderness hazardous and potentially unrunnable while the North Fork Skykomish is a no-less scenic or thrilling alternative for novice boaters or when the water is really moving.

Just minutes from Highway 2, the fog-shrouded North Fork Skykomish offers a true backcountry experi-

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ence. Flowing forth from the Henry M. Jackson Wilderness over van-sized granite rocks, the North Fork Sky churns through boulder gardens, timber strainers and twisting turns over six miles to the Trout Creek take-out at Outdoor Adventure Center headquarters in Index.

Along the way, witness nature at work:

the 2006 floods changed the course of the river and washed away homes and roads. A mid-float rock bar makes a good lunch stop and breath-catcher after class III+/IV rapids “El Nino”, “Rooster Tail” and “Minefield”. Take out at Outdoor Adventure Center headquarters, grab a drink and consider a second run.

Sally Farrell, Realtor® Coldwell Banker Bain 3610 Meridian St. Bellingham, WA 98225

Getting there: Put in just past Troublesome Creek Bridge on FR 63 six miles north of Index. Take out just downstream of Trout Creek Bridge on Outdoor Adventure Center grounds.

Guides: The North Fork Skykomish is literally in Outdoor Adventure Center’s backyard. No one knows the tricky river better.

Accommodations: Check out the Bush House Inn, a recently restored 115-year-old hotel owned by Outdoor Adventure Center and located across the street from its Index headquarters (bushhouseinn.com). ANW

360-393-7339 farrellhomes@comcast.net www.sallyfarrell..com Ask me about my affiliation with REBSEA and

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The Magic of the Equinox The Photography of Buff Black Of the two equinoxes - spring and fall - it’s the time around the autumnal equinox that I seem to photograph more. As summer hands off to fall, and the kids are back in school, my ‘backcountry brethren’ and I head to the North Cascades for our annual backpack adventure.

It’s an egalitarian time of the year, with all the world having the same 12-hour-long days. Compared to high summer, the sunrises aren’t as early, so tent-sleep is not sacrificed (as much) to capture the breaking dawn over the mountains. And the fall-time color in the American Alps is worth waking up for - and absorbing into camera and soul all day long! There are times when the warm autumnal hues, blue glaciated peaks, and lower-hanging sun frame so well that I can’t imagine the scenes getting any better. Here in the northwest Northwest, we have a stunning topographical canvas painted every year in colors aflame.

Grab your boots and shutterbox, and I’ll see you up there!

Check out more of Buff Black’s amazing images at AdventuresNW.com Clockwise from top left: Fall Colors and Sunrise burst over Cutthroat Peak, On the Upper Sahale Arm, Fossil Creek on Church Mountain, Whatcom Falls, Resting below Cutthroat Peak, Blueberries in Heather Meadows.

Center: Autumn Leaves

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27

Journey to Aasgard: Across the Enchantments Story by Joel Litwin

I

was obsessed with the rebar.

In a short section of Enchantment Lakes Trail #1553 hikers have to cross a smooth granite slab so steep that pieces of rebar have been installed to help with the footing. One photo I found of this section showed a backpacker gingerly working his way down the rebar steps, hiking poles splayed to each side, his body language betraying his fear.

Another photo showed the rebar steps from above, ominously disappearing over the edge. It looked, quite frankly, terrifying.

That image was on my mind as I met up with a longtime friend in Leavenworth, WA. in late September.

Our plan was to hike through the Enchantments from west to east, taking three days to do it. Neither of us had been there before, though it had been a dream of mine for 20 years. Chris and I were both excited to get out there, dangers notwithstanding.

The Enchantments, or Enchantment Lakes, are an 18,000-acre subsection of Washington State’s Alpine Lakes Wilderness. The area was named by A.H. Sylvester, the first non-indigenous person to discover the region.

Sylvester was entranced by the beautiful alpine lakes, ringed by golden larches, and fed by cascading waterfalls. The area exudes a mystical, magical quality, the peaks and place names helping set the mood, like scenes out of Lord of the Rings: Aasgard Pass, Gnome Tarn, The Temple, Isolation Lake, Valhalla Cirque. I half expected to encounter orcs and goblins along the way.

The Enchantments are not easy to get to - physically or logistically. One way in is described as “long, steep and grueling.” The other way is much shorter, but “very steep and a bit dangerous.” We picked the latter, and it involved climbing Aasgard Pass, with its infamous 2,200-foot elevation gain in less than a mile. Better to climb up that sucker than climb down it, we thought, and thus our decision - for better or worse - was made.

Then there’s the permitting process.

Due to its popularity and fragility, the Enchantments require a permit to camp, obtainable via a lottery system.

It’s very competitive and they

allow just 60 campers per day. Only the lucky win the right to spend the night in paradise. We submitted our application in February and by late March we had our answer: We were granted four nights in the Core Enchantment Zone.

We won the lottery!

Chris and I spent the night in a Leavenworth hotel and readied our backpacks for the following morning’s hike in. As usual, I brought too much stuff, and crammed it all into my gigantic 1987 North Face internal-frame pack, made, apparently, back when people packed cast-iron frying pans and sacks of potatoes into the wilderness. Bright red with blue and yellow highlights. You can probably see it from space. Chris brought enough food to feed a village.

After a leisurely breakfast the next morning, we positioned our cars at two different trailheads and hit the trail for an easy

Photo by John D’Onofrio

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I slowed down a little bit more, probday to Colchuck Lake. The Stuart Lake ably resembling a humpbacked sloth, if trail climbed mildly from 3,400 feet there is such a thing. to 5,600 feet, offering inspiring views Sure enough, Aasgard Pass was of Mountaineer Creek and Mount steep. Really steep. But thanks to the Stuart. We encountered several parties many who had gone before us, there along the way. “Wow, that’s a flashy was a makeshift trail and a succession pack,” said one. “I can sure see that of cairns to guide the way. Slow and pack,” said another. Okay, now I was self-conscious about my pack. We soon arrived at Colchuck Lake, a turquoise oasis framed by imposing Colchuck and Dragontail peaks, and from here we could see it clearly: Aasgard Pass. It looked impossibly steep, maybe even vertical. “Whose idea was this?” I thought. I couldn’t imagine how we were going to scale it.

After a great sleep, we awoke to a Oreamnos Americanus: A visitor in the mist perfect day, and the Photo by Joel Litwin approach to Aasgard Pass. First we had to steady. Along the way we ran into cross an expansive boulder field. And John, an intrepid 82-year old who told these were big boulders, Volkswagenus of the days back in the ‘40’s when sized, with treacherous spaces between he was here climbing Colchuck Peak. them. It was in this area, in October Thanks to John, I was not the slowest 2010, that a hiker misgauged his jump up Aasgard Pass that day. Chris, who to a boulder and severely broke both runs marathons in her spare time, legs. He was in serious condition when seemed to be bounding up the slope they finally reached him to airlift him like the chipmunks that accompanied out. With this information in mind,

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us. I managed to keep her within sight using my passive-aggressive skills. “Oh, you go on ahead, Chris,” I said. “I’ll just meet you at the top.” “Oh, no, I’ll slow down,” she replied. Mmm-hmm.

Near the top of the pass, we encountered one particularly challenging part, requiring an awkward gymnastic move we called a “butt jam.” Zero style points, gasping and grunting included, gigantic pack swinging wildly.

Very nice. After this it was clear sailing to the top of Aasgard.

It had taken us 3-1/2 hours to go ¾ of a mile. The scene at the top was like a moonscape, dusted with snow and ice.

We were now at 7,800 feet, in the Enchantments upper basin, and the incredible scenes of my dreams spread out before me. Little Annapurna, The Temple, Prusik Peak and McClellan Peak were all on display, rising above the spectacular granite and tundra. We made camp above Crystal Lake and bedded down to the coldest night of the trip, about 20 degrees Fahrenheit. We woke to an inch of snow and nightmarish thoughts of descending “The Rebar

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German woman asked us about the Section.” It was on tap for today’s hike, conditions on Aasgard Pass. She was and I did not like the idea of tackling doing what’s called the “Death March,” it in the snow and ice. We packed up the entire 18-mile hike through the hastily and headed out, my hands going Enchantments in one day. We described numb from the cold. the ice and snow up high and suggested We stopped for lunch at a particuagainst descending the pass. A woman larly stunning spot and were visited by slid to her death in that area in 2011. two of the most majestic beasts I’ve ever We kept heading down through the encountered. Oreamnos americanus, North American mountain goats.

Knowing nothing about mountain goats, I didn’t know whether to be afraid or thrilled as they came within 20 feet of us. So I was both.

They looked incredibly powerful and perfectly adapted to their environment of granite, snow and ice. And they were completely silent.

We knew they were Prusik Peak rises above of scenes of otherwordly beauty common in this Photo by Joel Litwin area. Banning dogs here has led to their gorgeous meadows and golden larches, recovery, and they’re attracted to the the mist clearing occasionally to offer bodily salts in human sweat and urine. longer views. We passed numerous lakes Apparently they’ll even eat your boots - Perfection, Sprite, Leprechaun, Viviane if you leave them unguarded. We took - all of them equally captivating. With some photos and got our boots, with us Chris up ahead, I suddenly heard her in them, out of there. say, “Oh, here’s the rebar!” A momentary Hiking through the heart of the wave of fear washed over me. I hesitated Upper Basin, we came upon sevmomentarily, ignored the voices screameral groups going the opposite way. A

ing in my head and slowly started down the steep granite slab. The dropoff was significant, but we were able to block out the possible consequences and keep moving forward. Totally focused and deliberate, we were actually through it fairly quickly and we let out a sigh of relief. We were past the rebar. It appeared we would survive, after all.

Nature, however, was not finished with us yet. There were more sections of steep granite to descend, even more exposed and dicey than the rebar section. Block out the danger. Keep moving. Nerves jangled.

Knees and muscles feeling the exertion.

And even through all this, the boundless beauty and wildness of this area was filling us with a palpable joy that we’ll carry with us forever. This was the most beautiful place I’d ever seen in Washington, and maybe anywhere.

Eventually we reached Upper Snow Lake and set up camp. The mist and fog revealed only partial views at a time, adding to the mystery and allure of this place.

Craggy peaks and saw-toothed ridgelines surrounded us. While eating dinner, a bee buzzed by. Turns out it was the only flying

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insect we saw our whole time out. Despite the horror stories of mosquitoes and flies in this area, we had been blessed with a bug-free trip. At dusk we were visited by a family of Whitetail deer, including a young fawn with so much joie de vivre she felt compelled to break into a full run at times.

Here in the Enchantments, I knew exactly how she felt.

Our lightweight tent got quite a workout overnight, as the rains and winds of autumn hit us head-on throughout the night. We eschewed breakfast in the morning, packed up quickly and hit the trail again. Passing Lower Snow Lake and jewel-like Nada Lake, the natural wonders continued. Following Snow Creek down to lower elevations, we caught a glimpse of Snow Creek Wall through the clouds. The rain never stopped that day, as if to mark the change of seasons. We arrived back in Leavenworth wet, bruised, tired and absolutely on top of the world.

Enchanté, Enchantment Lakes. We will never forget you.

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The Enchantment Lakes - Misty and Mythic Photo by Joel Litwin

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A Sense of Belonging In Praise of Running Clubs Story by Cami Ostman

T

here’s nothing quite like the adventure of falling in love.

Several years ago, while living in Seattle, I fell in love with Bill, a runner who lived in Bellingham. And love, sweet love, makes miles feel short and a freeway feel like a very happy road to travel, indeed. For a couple of years, we shuffled between our two homes on the weekends, making the best of the distance between us while maintaining our independent lives during the week.

Skagit Runners

Photo by David Robb

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But as will happen, love led to marriage, and marriage led to the necessity for one of us to make a decision about moving. Because my life was more flexible, I agreed to uproot myself and move out of the city - away from old pals, favorite haunts, and the BurkeGilman trail and other running routes I enjoyed - so that Bill and I could be together.

Once I was settled in Bellingham, it didn’t take me long to discover a half- dozen beautiful and easily accessed running trails, and I soon realized that while I missed the bustle of the busy paved trails in Seattle, I also loved rugged trail running - being among the trees and encountering wildlife in the relative serenity of Whatcom County.

But I was lonely. One of my greatest fears in moving 90 miles up the I-5 corridor had been that I would feel isolated, that I’d pine for friends and feel anonymous.

And in fact, I did feel invisible without easy access to comfortable, wellworn relationships. Phone calls to Seattle didn’t fill my longing for community; they only made me more acutely aware of how stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.

fee for the Greater Bellingham Running alone I was - too far away to grab a quick Club and to encourage me to join him lunch or go for a movie after work. at races around town (free to members).

One evening about three months My fears about coming in last were after I’d moved in with Bill, we went quickly abated when I saw that there out for a drink, and as I sat at the bar were often walkers in the club-sponsored and looked at my beloved, I felt overraces. Any club that gives whelmed with a suddignity to the walkers den realization that he could put up with my 12 was my only real friend minutes-per-mile pace, I in town, the only one figured. And to my relief, I who knew that I hated also discovered something water chestnuts or that I didn’t know as someone I was mortally afraid of who hadn’t participated in walking over manhole many community events: covers. I didn’t know Runners don’t need how I would meet senseless small-talk to other people or how I get to know one another. would build a commuRunners, it turns out, nity for myself from always have something to scratch.

Polly Favinger, President of the talk about. The course, of Bill listened to Greater Bellingham Running Club course! Whether a short or me compassionately, long race, runners rehash every turn in but my husband is not one to dwell in the trail, every mile. self-pity (neither his own, nor mine).

“I thought that hill would do me He’s a do-er and a problem solver, so before happy hour was over, he grabbed a community calendar from the circular rack by the front door of the restaurant and picked out several running events he intended to drag me to. That, at the very least, would keep me busy.

Although I’d been a solo runner for a number of years at that point, I was/ am/have always been slow. I loved what running did for my psyche and my body, but was apologetic that I wasn’t “good at it.” I was sure I would embarrass myself if I came in last at a local race. Who would want to get to know the slow poke holding up the volunteers from getting on with their day? Besides, although I love human contact, I’m shy in my own way. I’ve always felt anxious about making small talk (who doesn’t, really?). That period between meeting someone and knowing them intimately is often full of awkward pauses while people grasp aimlessly for something to say. What I wanted was real friendship.

Bill wouldn’t be dissuaded, however.

His answer to my fears was to pay my race | play | experience

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Spokane’s Flying Irish Running Club Photo by Brendan Cassida

in,” one says.

“I know. I was on a steady sevenminute per mile pace until I got there,” another commiserates.

Shared experiences create a shared reality. And a shared reality is the perfect foundation for new friendships another great adventure in life.

Nine years later I sit across from Polly Favinger, the president of the Greater Bellingham Running Club. She isn’t a stranger to me anymore. I’ve been

Local running clubs: Club Northwest Seattle, WA Most popular run/race: New Year’s Resolution Run 5k with Polar Bear Dive and July 3rd to 4th Firecracker 5000 Website: clubnorthwest.org Eastside Runners Eastside of Lake Washington, WA Most popular run/race: Saturday Morning Runs at various locations and Wednesday Night Track Workouts at Lake Washington HS Website: eastsiderunners.com Flying Irish Running Club Spokane, WA Most Popular Run/Race: Weekly run on Thursday nights, some of which are themed: Prancercise, Cross-Dress, Pajama, Halloween and Luau.

Website: flyingirish.org 34

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to her home, and she’s been to mine.

We sip on coffee and catch up on one another’s lives before our talk turns to running. I tell her that I’ve been reflecting on my early weeks and months in town when I was afraid I’d never make friends. And we laugh, because now being a member of the running club means, if anything, having a toofull life rather than a too-lonely one.

“It’s not just running,” she says.

“It’s a whole community way of being.”

“I remember when I was embarrassed about my pace,” I confess.

“I worried at first about being too slow, too,” she replies.

This surprises me because Polly isn’t a back-of-the-packer like I am. I supGBRC - Greater Bellingham Running Club Bellingham, WA Most popular run/race: Chuckanut Footrace race began in 1967!

Website: gbrc.net Guerilla Running Racing Club Olympia, WA Most popular run/race: Oly Trot Website: guerillarunning.com Hard Core Runners Club Yakima, WA Most popular run/race: Frosty Four Miler and Yakima River Canyon Marathon Website: hcrunners.org Interurban Runners Club Tacoma, WA Most popular run/race: Summer 5k Series Website: interurbanrunners.net

pose we all just worry we won’t fit in.

As if answering my thought, Polly adds, “Until you let yourself into that world, you don’t know that you belong.”

“That’s it, isn’t it?” I say.

In anything in this life, whether it’s embarking on a long trail run or reaching out to find community, you have to push through your resistance and fear.

It’s getting to the starting line that is the hardest part of the journey; once you’re at the finish line, you’ve got a shared experience with others that can create a bond between you.

There are running clubs in almost every community throughout the Northwest. Some focus on road races, others on trail runs, and still others on Oregon Road Runners Club Oregon Most popular run/race: The ORRC Turkey Trot at the Zoo and the Hagg Mud 25k/50k.

Website: orrc.net Run Wenatchee Wenatchee, WA Most popular run/race: Thursday Night Club Run Website: runwenatchee.com Skagit Runners Skagit County, WA Most popular run/race: The Tulip Run in April and the Skagit Flats Marathon/Half Marathon in September.

Website: skagitrunners.org 3 Rivers Road Runners Rickland/Kennewick/Pasco, WA Most popular run/race: St. Patrick’s Day Foot Race and Tri-City Marathon Website: 3RRR.org >>> Go to AdventuresNW.com

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training or family functions. But all have this in common: Running in community creates bonds and friendships that can give us a sense of identity and belonging beyond the event or races that a club sponsors. Check out a smattering of some of the PNW’s terrific clubs (listed on page 34). And if you haven’t made the connection yet, why not show up for one of their events and see what happens.

You might just find out you belong. ANW Check out AdventuresNW.com for more running club info.

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35

Grand Larchery Savoring Autumn on the Golden Lakes Loop Story and Photos by John D’Onofrio

Upper Eagle Lake

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T

he sun is shining. It’s a glorious autumn day and here we are, driving across the North Cascades Highway in my trusty Subaru. We are on a mission. We are hunting larches.

Among all of the wondrous flora of the northern mountains, the larch is in a class by itself. A deciduous conifer, this graceful tree turns a shimmering gold and orange for a few scant weeks each fall, setting the hillsides of the eastern slopes of the North Cascades ablaze with Jack ‘o Lantern color. I have made pilgrimages to the renowned autumnal hardwood forests of New England and watched the arctic tundra of northern Alaska turn magenta and crimson at the first touch of frost. For my money, these visual delights have nothing on the dazzling color of the height of the larch season.

Accompanied by my larch-loving comrades Brett and Denise (and their Wonder Dog Luna), I am headed to the Golden Lakes for a week of wandering. These picturesque lakes occupy the wild country that straddles Sawtooth Ridge east of Lake Chelan and stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.

are connected by a twenty-something mile network of trails.

A pair of exhilarating passes to climb. And some of the most magnificent larch forests in these mountains. It’s early October: Prime time. The weather forecast is excellent. All systems go.

We drive through Twisp and rumble up the Gold Creek Road as the shadows of late afternoon lengthen, stopping to make camp at Foggy Dew, a delightful bivouac in deep forest between two rambunctious creeks. Tomorrow we’ll head up into these mountains for what we hope will be “grand larchery”.

Anticipation runs high.

In the morning we load our packs and set out from the Crater Lake trailhead, steadily climbing through the woods with the usual and requisite grunting. After about five miles the terrain gets rockier and we are afforded occasional views out over the Martin Creek Drainage, a wild and lonely-looking country. At almost seven miles Lower Eagle Lake comes into view, a thousand feet below us. Across the valley, the high places are tinged with the orange glow of stands of larch, gleaming in the afternoon sun. Invigorated by the sight, we climb some more race | play | experience

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By early afternoon the sun passes and soon we’re among them and the behind the ridge and the golden light is very air seems golden. One more push extinguished. Sunlight is fleeting here at through the vibrant forest on an unUpper Eagle Lake. We reconvene and demarked side trail brings us to Upper Eagle cide to stay another day in this enchanted Lake, mirror-calm beneath the great wall basin; we need more time to soak up this of Sawtooth Ridge. We drop our dusty packs and establish camp beside the lake as the light fades. An Ascending Horsehead Pass owl screeches somewhere in the dark forest and then it is astonishingly quiet. No wind stirs the trees. The stars are extravagant.

At dawn the surface of the lake is dancing with reflections.

The sun’s warm glow spreads like butter down the towering wall of Sawtooth Ridge, illuminating the luminous stands of larches one by one before eventually reaching the lake. My companions and I go our separate ways and I trace the shoreline of the ephemeral scene. Late at night, beside a lake, stopping every ten feet to ecstatitiny fire, I watch the milky way rise becally take photographs. The edge of the hind the spectral silhouette of Sawtooth water is filigreed in a tawny ring of larch Ridge. needles. At the outlet, I crunch over thick Another bluebird morning: first light hoarfrost, a reminder of winter waiting in turning the lake surface the color of molthe wings. Eagle Lake is crystal-clear and ten gold. Brett and I engage in a frenzy of the rocky bottom is mosaic-like below the shutter-clicking while Denise does yoga reflections of copper-colored trees and inon the shore. Another idyllic day at Upper digo shadows.

Eagle Lake. It’s early afternoon before we Between Milepost 20 - 21 can bring ourselves to pack up camp and Mt. Baker Hwy., Deming head further up the trail, which resembles Ph 360/599-BEER (2337) a golden carpet of larch needles. www.northforkbrewery.com We pass tiny ponds glazed with ice and then begin climbing in earnest, eventually leaving the trees behind as we as-

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cend to 7600-foot Horsehead Pass. From this high notch we can look east to the tawny Columbia Highlands rolling to the horizon and west to the snow-dappled Cascade Crest. Far below is our destination for the evening: Boiling Lake in its sensuously-scooped bowl of larches. It looks like paradise.

The descent to the lake is a dreamwalk, past ancient larches covered in electricgreen lichen. The color combination is breathtaking. As we draw closer to the lake the late afternoon light grows richer, the colors intensify, and the reflections are hallucinogenic: orange trees, cobalt sky, black rock.

At dawn, my tent is covered with frost. We break camp, load our packs and head down the trail through the open forest. At the junction with the Chelan Summit Trail, we turn south and begin climbing again through broad meadows alternating with stands of trees. We stop at the edge of Old Maid Meadows for a luxurious rest break and bask in the noon-day sun. In the distance, the smoke plumes of forest fires are visible to the west.

Our next objective is the 8000-foot pass of Sawtooth Ridge, the highest point on the Golden Lakes Loop. We turn off the Chelan Summit Trail and begin climbing through beautiful sweeping meadows, which gradually give way to rock and

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scree, the beginning of what is known as The Angel’s Staircase. This remarkable - and occasionally vertiginous - path climbs the wall of Sawtooth, switch-backing up through the rubble on an ingeniously-constructed trail first established by sheep herders a century ago.

Mountain bikes are allowed here and the descent down the Staircase is an epic ride, the highest-elevation singletrack in Washington.

Cyclists have to carry their bikes 800 feet up from Boiling Lake Cooney Lake on the other side of the ridge to earn the thrill. No bikes today though. Just the three of us and Luna the Wonder Dog, who is panting in earnest by the time the pass is achieved.

At the top, the views extend in all directions and a cold wind blows. We traverse the ridge crest for an awe-struck half-mile to a notch, where we can see Cooney Lake, 800 vertical feet below, our destination for the night. It looks cold in its shadowy basin. The route down to the lake is precipitous and loose - more a route than a trail - and leads down into the larch forest where the tread is covered with soft, golden needles that lend a gentle softness after the shattered rock of the pass. We circle the lake and make camp on a promontory overlooking the water as dusk settles over us and the tempera-

ture drops. Weary, we eat our dinner and warm ourselves by the fire, elated to be out in this wild country. Luna eats her dinner in about ten seconds and, unimpressed with the view, crawls into the tent as soon as she is done. Once again, the stars are astonishing.

In the morning, a patina of ice covers our camp but the rising sun soon warms the air as I sit quietly with a cup of morning coffee. I wander off on my own for a hike around the lake with camera and trusty tripod.

Everything - the ground, rocks, logs, plants, water - is covered in larch needles.

The landscape looks like an infrared photograph. I move slowly, taking the time to observe the details: needles in wave patterns at the water’s edge, needles arranged

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warmth of the sun until it slips behind like a Klee painting in black mud, needles Sawtooth Ridge and the temperature hanging in spider webs and needles susdrops like a stone. Tomorrow, we’ll hike pended in translucent ice. out through the Martin Creek Valley and At the head of the lake there is a back to the trailhead and waiting Subaru. marshy area reminiscent of arctic muskeg, filled with tussocks covered in crimson fall color. The afternoon light streams in sideways, illuminating the now somewhat threadbare larches against the blue shadows of a rock wall. An ancient fallen tree trunk, its surface like the Dead Sea Scrolls, lies half-buried in the ground, the very essence of incalculable passing time. How many years since it fell? How long until it is gone, reunited with the soil from which it emerged one spring morning in the days Larch Needles and Ice before trails lent access to these We’ll do it slowly, in no hurry to complete sublime lakes? the loop.

Down in this basin, the sunlight is In the morning, clouds have gathovertaken by advancing shadow in midered and the wind comes up, cold and afternoon. I follow its arc, enjoying the

chastening; smelling like winter. A flurry of golden needles falls in the forest, soon joined by lightly drifting snow. We linger beside Cooney Lake for a few moments in silence, contemplating the evanescent season, watching the snow and needles fall. The wind has stripped the trees and they now stand mostly bare. Luna breaks the silence with an impatient little ‘woof’. She is eager for the trail. We hoist our backpacks and start towards home.

Getting There Drive the North Cascades Highway (SR20) through Twisp to a right turn on the easy-tomiss North Fork Gold Creek Road (4340). At 6.6 miles hang a left on Road 300 and follow it for six miles to the Eagle Lake (431) Trailhead. Distance around the loop is 23 miles unless you make detours (highly recommended).

ANW

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1. Sand Point, 1966 First trip, Olympic wild beaches, where Justice Douglas marched to keep cars out. Freshmen on parade in the wilderness! Tripping along in tennies and street shoes. Not yet members of baby REI. You carried an overnight bag, someone else a small suitcase.

Idaho Fats and I humped a big bag of water, hung from alder pole, between our tender shoulders. You and I camped atop the sea stack, freezing in the envelopes of sleeping bags your parents brought home from Germany, froze our teenage butts. In the morning, purple sea stars, green anemones, studded the tide pools.

I flipped pancakes through driftwood smoke, and we all said “Yes!” having made it to the wilderness in spite of ourselves.

2. North Cascades, 1967 They met at a junior high dance in Denver, went steady the year the Wilderness Act was passed, and (still children) married at nineteen. They knew Mardy Murie, Polly Dyer, Pat Goldsworthy, testified before Scoop for the North Cascades.

They marched in the Husky Band, but also with Justice Douglas up the Suiattle, to keep Kennecott out of the Glacier Peak Wilderness.

On their anniversary, they took the Lady of the Lake to Stehekin, hiked up Cascade Pass. Hermit thrushes filled the avalanche chutes with their fluty pipes, parnassians hung from columbines and lilies. And when they hitchhiked home in the back of a truck, the farmer pried open a box of sweet peaches, and said, “Help yourself.”

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Then back to curio shop, the Sherman Tree. Led a hundred people an hour on the Congress Trail.

Took ninety, one time, inside a hollow giant, all burned out, but alive. And in the circular grove where Muir took Burroughs to hear the hermit thrush—”a religious beatitude,” said John o’ Birds to John o’ Mountains— the hermit sang every time, when they all shut up.

Just there.

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The Prophet and the Saint No Pain, No Gain

T

Story by Bob Kandiko

he North Cascades contain countless peaks of fantastic beauty but the area that captures the mountaineer’s wanderlust is the Pickets. These serrated peaks can only be glimpsed from a few locations on Highway 20. Remote, isolated, and intimidating, the Pickets are the Holy Grail of the North Cascades.

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For the hiker/scrambler, just reaching locations for unobstructed views of the Pickets can be a worthy achievement.

Hannegan Peak, Trapper Peak, and Sourdough Mountain are well-known viewpoints, accessible by trail on long daytrips. But for the passionate Picket aficionado (and there are many), these glimpses only whet the appetite. Ready for more, I went to see the Prophet and

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the Saint. Mt. Prophet (7,640 ft.) and Mt. Saint (7,185 ft.) rise just east of the Pickets, occupying a front row seat for the glory of these ragged mountains. In the thick of things.

Like hobbits heading for Mordor, we left the boat dock at the Big Beaver trailhead on Ross Lake carrying hefty packs on a hot August morning. We soon entered the cathedral of magnificent red cedars that fill the valley bottom. These ancient trees tower like sentinels over the needle-softened trail. All too quickly we passed 39-mile Creek, then departed the comfort and coolness of the trail to head uphill. “Uphill” does not adequately describe the steepness of the 4,500 foot gain we struggled up.

With sparse vegetation on the southfacing slope, the sun beat down on us, testing our resolve to reach our lofty goal. With sweat draining down our bodies we cleared the forests only to be dismayed at the endless rocky slopes leading ever upward. By late afternoon we reached a rare flat spot in which to pitch our tent.

Our arduous pilgrimage had not been in vain. To the southwest lay the entire Picket Range with sparkling glaciers dropping from the jagged summits. Foreboding McMillan and Luna Cirques provided sublime symmetry under the soaring walls. Our next 36 hours were spent climbing and mar>>> Go to AdventuresNW.com

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ENVIROSTARS

veling at the wild country surrounding the Prophet and the Saint, gazing over the wild green valleys, the rugged peaks, and the ancient forests. We were truly pilgrims - devotees of the wilderness - humbled by the immensity of the mountain temples and shrines of the North Cascades.

After hours of reflection and contemplation, we started down with a deep sense of contentment gained from our audience with the Prophet and the Saint.

ANW

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Cascadia Gear: Essentials for your next Adventure La Sportiva Omega GTX Hiking Boots The sweet spot for me when it comes to hiking boots is the place where ruggedness and light weight meet. The Omega GTX from La Sportiva really nails this. Weighing less than 24 ounces, these boots combine superb traction with a comfortable, cushy footbed. Made of leather and Cordura®, the Omega GTX’s feature La Sportiva’s Impact Brake System (I.B.S.), a proprietary design feature wherein the lugs of the soles are oriented in opposing slanted directions. According to La Sportiva, this increases braking power by an average of 20% and decreases impact forces by the same amount. As you would expect, the Omega GTX’s have a Gore-Tex® membrane to keep moisture out. Aside from some minor break-in issues, these boots were uber-comfortable and provided excellent traction on the trail.

More info: www.sportiva.com

Bear Vault BV-500 DatesBear Canister Increasingly, backcountry travelers are being required to store their food in bear canisters. The old sling-a-rope-over-a-tree-limb technique is going the way of the Sierra Cup. Bear cans come in many styles, sizes and price-points. The BV-500 from Bear Vault is an excellent option for small groups out for the weekend or solo hikers on a week-long jaunt. With a capacity of 700 cubic inches (11.5 liters), the BV-500 provides a safe stash for your dehydrated goodies, toothpaste and sunscreen. Weighing in at 2 lbs, 9 oz., the BV-500 is constructed of a polycarbonate housing and has been approved by the SIBBG (Sierra Interagency Black Bear Group) and the IGBC (Interagency Grizzly Bear Committee). This assures compliance with most National Park and other public land agency regulations. The BV-500 features a wide opening which makes stuffing and unloading easy, and the transparent housing limits unnecessary rooting around for that pouch of Turkey Tetrazzini. No tools are required to open the BV-500; the lid features tabs that lock and unlock it. One caveat: Sand or grit can get into the threads on the lid and make opening difficult - keep it clean to avoid this headache.

More info: www.bearvault.com

Camp C-12 Universal Crampons Gear Spotlight:

Water Treatment Solutions

MSR Autoflow Microfilter

by Chris Gerston Pumping water is for bivalves. Depending on your destination, several options exist in this new era of pump-free hydration.

Perhaps the most convenient is the MSR Autoflow Microfilter which combines collection, gravity-inspired filtration, and storage while you’re at camp. Simply fill the durable 4-liter reservoir, hang it up, and un-click the hose clamp.

With a flow rate of 1.75 liters/minute and weighing in at just less than 14 ounces, it’s like having a tap of fresh water wherever you go. While it is effective against particulates, protozoa, and bacteria, it is not good for viruses, nuclear waste, chemicals or toxins - fair enough for most backpacking destinations in North America.

The other new device for hydration that I would consider for both backpacking - and especially for international travel - where viruses are present, is the new SteriPEN Ultra. This lightweight option (less than 5 ounces!) is 99.9% effective on water-borne protozoa, bacteria, and viruses. The Ultra recharges by computer, international wall outlets, or portable solar panel, and when fully charged is good for 50 liters of water. Steripen uses a UV light source to treat one liter at a time, or about 8000 liters over the course of the Ultra’s lifetime. Simply fill your water bottle and swirl the pen in the bottle for 48 seconds until the smiley face appears.

Chris Gerston owns Backcountry Essentials, an outdoor specialty shop located at 214 W. Holly in Bellingham, WA. Check out more gear reviews by Chris Gerston at AdventuresNW.com SteriPEN Ultra

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Glacier travel is one of the supreme joys of adventuring in the North Cascades. These mountains are home to somewhere in the neighborhood of 700 glaciers - that’s a lot of ice! Travelling safely across glacial ice requires specific training, experience - and rock-solid gear. Mistakes or gear failures can have catastrophic results. The folks at CAMP understand this - they’ve been making climbing gear since 1889. Their C-12 Universal Crampons feature thermoplastic heel and toe harnesses that make them suitable for use on virtually any hiking or classic mountaineering boot. They offer 12 points and anti-balling plates (if you’ve ever used crampons on sun-softened snow, you know how important these are!). And they are superadjustable to ensure a precise fit, crucial for safety and comfort.

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Dates

AUGUST >>> Saturday, 23 August RUN/WALK Cutthroat Classic Trail Run––Mazama, WA, 8:00 am – 1:00 pm

Sunday, 24 August RUN/WALK Dog Days of Summer 10K & 2.6M Run/Walk––Lake Padden Park, 9:00 am – 3:30 pm.

Sunday, 31 August BIKING Steve Braun Memorial Triathlon––Moran State Park, Orcas Island, 8:00 am – 12:00 pm. Sponsored by Friends of Moran-all participant fees go to FOM educational outreach and park projects.

Registration 7:30 am – 8:30 am, Pre-race meeting 8:30 am, 9:00 AM Start. Swim: 1/2 mile swim in beautiful Cascade Lake start area is 50 yards north of fishing dock. Water temp is typically 60 degrees.Wetsuits are permissible and favored by many. Bike: A 15 mile bike ride along a scenic and very rural county chip sealed road. From the lake you will head south and out towards

G et

ked! o o H

Doe Bay. You will encounter hills and slopes of varying degrees (up to 10% grade to and from Olga) and a few hairpin corners. We take extra precaution by placing road safety signs, volunteers and advising local traffic of the event.We strongly suggest that cyclists ride single file except to pass due to the narrow shoulders. Run: A beautiful trail run 3.5 miles around Cascade Lake. Trail is primitive, not gravel, with some short hills and slopes. Hazards include tree roots and uneven footing. It’s a trail and sturdy shoes are a plus! All proceeds directly benefit Moran State Park projects such as the Summit Learning Center and educational outreach! www.friendsofmoran.com/sbmt

SEPTEMBER >>> Saturday, 6 September BIKING RBC GranFondo Whistler–– Vancouver, BC, 7:00 am – 4:00 pm.

SPECIAL Bellwether On The Bay–– Tom Glenn Commons, 1:00 pm – 7:00 pm.The Jazz Project in cooperation with The Port of Bellingham presents the fourth annual Bellwether Jazz Festival on the Bellwether Peninsula at Tom Glenn Common on Bellingham’s waterfront.

The festival features free outdoor com-

munity concerts in the park from 1-7 pm.

Tuesday, 9 September RUN/WALK Fairhaven Runners Weekly All-Paces Run––Fairhaven Runners & Walkers, 6:00 pm – 7:00 pm.

Get fit, get inspired and have fun! Every Tuesday except holidays..

Saturday, 13 September RUN/WALK Fairhaven Runners Waterfront 15K––Fairhaven Village Green, 8:30 am – 11:30 am.Whether competing or participating just for fun, running or walking, enjoy a beautiful 15K/9.3 mi. course along Bellingham Bay from Fairhaven to Squalicum Harbor and back.This is a wonderfully fun event, especially because of the great volunteers, post-race party with food and drink, live music, awards, and free massage/chiropractic care. All participants get a shirt and chip timing.

Low pre-registration fee. Bellingham Parks and Recreation and Fairhaven Runners & Walkers partner on this event. www.cob.org/services/recreation/races/

RUN/WALK Annual Memorial Anne Jackson 5K/10K Run/ 2mile DoggoneWalk-A-Thon––Humane Society of Skagit Valley, 9:15 am – 11:30 am.

Sunday, 14 September BIKING Chuckanut Century––Bellingham and Whatcom County, Come join us and ride one of the most scenic rides in Washington. With many routes offered you can pick your distance ranging from 25, 38, 50, 62, 100, or the double metric century of 124 miles. Although all cyclists should be fully prepared when they take to the roads, you can enjoy the added security of knowing that there is ride support if needed and food stops with a wide variety of high-energy food and drinks along all of the routes. No matter which route you choose, you’ll be treated to Whatcom County’s finest roads and sights. As you ride the south loop you’ll have views of the San Juan Islands while overlooking Bellingham, Samish, and Padilla Bays along with stunning views of Chuckanut and Blanchard mountains, also known as “where the Cascade mountains meet

Northwest

Traverse Multi-Sport Series Chinook (solo) Winthrop June 14th

Coho (tandem)

Bellingham Kids June 29th

Olympia

July 26th

Chum (relay teams) North Bend Sept. 6th

Bellingham Sept. 20th

Northwest Traverse.com

event listings at AdventuresNW.com

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14 September (cont.) - 27 September 2014 the sea.” The north loop offers spectacular views of Mt Baker as it stretches to meet the sky at 10,800 feet, as well as incredible views of the Canadian Cascades, Mt Shuksan, the Twin Sisters, Birch Bay, and Vancouver Island. www.chuckanutcentury.org

Saturday, 20 September

Saturday Sept. 20 2014 For information www.tourdewhidbey.com tourwhidbey@whidbeygen.org Gold Spoke Sponsors Platinum Spoke Sponsor Physicians & Allied Health Providers of Whidbey General Hospital

Silver Spoke Sponsors

Andersen Construction • Foster Pepper HDR Architecture • Parker, Smith, Feek TEAMHealth Northwest • Valic Financial Advisors

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SPECIAL Vital Choice Bellingham Traverse–– Market Depot/Boundary Bay, All Day. 5.5 mi.

Greenways Run, 6 mi. Mtn Bike, 18 mi. Road Ride, 3.4 mi. Trail Run, 3.6 mi. Paddle and .65 mi. Team Trek to the Boundary Bay Finish Line and Bellingham Block Party. The Bellingham Traverse is a multi-sport event celebrating the life cycle of wild salmon and the natural and urban challenges of their journey. Solo, tandem and relay teams challenge themselves and one another on a rugged course that highlights the City of Bellingham’s Parks, Greenways System, bike-friendly roads, and open water opportunities for recreation. http://nwtraverse.com/bellingham-traverse/ home BIKING Tour de Whidbey––Greenbank Farm, 7:00 am – 6:00 pm. Nestled at the mouth of Puget Sound, Whidbey Island offers some of the most scenic vistas in all of Washington State. As riders travel the back roads, they will experience unique scenery and varied terrain. Riders have six routes to choose from, each with a hospitality breakstation every 10-12 miles. 100 mile route that is a figure-8 course.Two 50 mile routes,

which offer riders a choice of enjoying Central/North or Central/ South Whidbey Island sights and scenes. Either will give intermediate riders a workout. 40-mile and 30-mile South Whidbey routes. A family friendly 10 mile route that has a virtually flat route through historic prairie, beach and farm lands west of the town of Coupeville. www.whidbeygen.org/wgh-foundation/tour-de-whidbey

Saturday, 27 September SPECIAL San Juan Island Quest–– Moran State Park, Orcas Island, 6:30 am – 6:00 pm. From rugged coastline, to granite-capped mountains, Orcas Island is truly an adventure racing paradise.Teams of 1-4 take on Recreational (4-6 hr) or Expert (8-12 hr) races that include Sea Kayaking,Trail Running & Mountain Biking. Racers will navigate a series of checkpoints to make their way from start to finish.

Finding the best route through the course is up to you. www.recreationnorthwest.org/quest-adventureraces/san-juan-island-quest/ SPECIAL Methow Valley Off-Road Duathlon–– Chickadee Trailhead Shelter, 9:00 am – 2:00 pm.

Methow Valley Off-Road duathlon will be held at the iconic Sun Mountain resort on the MVSTA trail system.

This challenging course meanders through aspen and pine forests above Patterson Lake, starting and ending

>>> View or download even MORE Race|Play|Experience

27 September (cont.) - 5 October 2014 at the Chickadee trail head in the beautiful Methow Valley.

And don’t forget a great after party with race munchies and local microbrews.

This race is brought to you

by North Cascades Mountain Hostel.www. methowduathalon.blogspot.com RUN/WALK Mt Baker Invitational XC Race––Silver Lake Park, Maple Falls, 12:00 pm.

Sunday, 28 September RUN/WALK Bellingham Bay Marathon, 1/2 Marathon & 5K––Bellingham Depot Market, 7:30 am – 4:00 pm. Come experience the natural beauty of Bellingham Bay, San Juan Islands, mountain views and a touch of trail in Bellingham,Washington. Enjoy what many runners have described as “the most beautiful marathon in the Pacific Northwest”. 8th Annual Event. www. bellinghambaymarathon.org

event listings at AdventuresNW.com

OCTOBER >>> Saturday, 4 October RUN/WALK Run Like a Girl Half Marathon––Fairhaven Park, 9:00 am – 1:00 pm. Run Like a Girl is a non-competitive half-marathon that benefits Girls on the Run. It is like no other half marathon you’ve experienced. Just to give a hint – this is probably the only half marathon you’ll get to proudly wear your very own dazzling tiara! Receive a beautiful finisher’s medal hand-made by a local artist when you cross the finish line.You will be personally adorned with this by our very own local firefighters. www.runlikeagirlbellingham.org

Sunday, 5 October SPECIAL Loons, Oystercatchers and Murrelets: Birds of the Bay and Rosario Strait––North Cascades Institute Learning Center, 8:30 am – 4:30 pm.

Visit AdventuresNW.com for complete listings of Outdoor events through 2015

race | play | experience

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11 October - 12 March 2015 Saturday, 11 October SPECIAL 4th Annual Shoot the Trails Awards––Depot Market Square, 6:30 pm – 10:00 pm. Whatcom Mountain Bike Coalition Fundraiser Video and Photography Contest.

Huge Prize Raffle, Beer, Food. All ages welcome.

For contest rules and event information: wmbcmtb.org Come out and support your local trails!

NOVEMBER >>> Saturday, 1 November RUN/WALK Carkeek 6- & 12-Hour–– Carkeek Park, 7:00 am – 7:00 pm. The original toughest 12-hour out there, with bonus 6-hour option! Run as many or few laps as you dare.

Friday, 14 November SPECIAL No Turning Back – Warren Miller film–– Mt. Baker Theatre, 8:00 pm – 10:00 pm. This fall, Warren Miller releases

Advertiser Index

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its 65th ski film, No Turning Back. The newest installment pays homage to the 65 years of mountain culture and adventure filmmaking that has lead us to every end of the winter world—and this year is no different. From beneath the blankets of powder in Niseko, Japan to the top of Greece’s Mount Olympus, the French Alps, and the Mom & Pop hills of Montana, each location is sure to provide nothing but stoke. Watch Olympian Ted Ligety shred the World Cup in Colorado, Ingrid Backstrom and Jess McMillan push the boundaries of the Alaskan Chugach, and JT Holmes and Ulie Kestenholz take flight high above the Swiss Alps. www.skinet. com/warrenmiller/

7C Creative................................................ 35 American Alpine Institute...........................9 Appliance Depot....................................... 40 Avenue Bread............................................. 24 Backporch Wine & Spirits....................... 19 Bellingham Automotive............................ 43 Bellingham Bay Marathon........................ 49 Bellingham Farmers Market.................... 12 Bellingham Frameworks........................... 35 Bellingham Sports and Spine................... 41 bikesport..................................................... 13 Boundary Bay Brewery...............................4 Brad Jones, Rolfer...................................... 39 Brandon Nelson/NW Way of Life, Keller Williams....................................... 40 Chuckanut Bay Art Gallery..................... 41 Colophon Cafe.......................................... 18 D’Anna’s Cafe Italiano.............................. 39 Danne Neill/Muljat Group...................... 12 Dave Mauro/UBS Financial.........................4 Dawn Durand/Windermere Real Estate.............................................. 19 Entertainment Media/Warren Miller.... 46 Fairhaven Bicycle....................................... 18 Fairhaven Pizza & Prawns........................ 18 Fairhaven Runners & Walkers................. 29

DECEMBER >>> Saturday, 6 December RUN/WALK Girls on the Run 5k–– Bloedel Donovan Park, 9:30 am – 11:00 am.

MARCH >>> Thursday, 12 March SPECIAL Recreation Northwest EXPO––Lakeway Inn, 4:00 pm – 8:00 pm. Bring your friends and family to check out the best and the brightest in the local and regional outdoor recreation at the Recreation Northwest EXPO at the Best Western Plus Lakeway Inn. Win great door prizes, meet awesome people and hear great speakers. This is your chance to connect with the resources you need for a

Family Care Network.................................6 Favinger Plumbing..................................... 33 Gato Verde Adventure Sailing................. 18 Honey Moon.............................................. 16 Il Caffe Rifugio............................................ 40 JM Electric................................................... 35 Ken Harrison/Coldwell Banker Bain Real Estate..................................... 38 Kulshan Brewing Company..................... 51 Labels Women’s Consignment............... 16 LFS Marine & Outdoor............................ 12 Lithtex NW................................................ 49 Mallard Ice Cream........................................8 MBBC / Chuckanut Century.................. 47 McKay’s Taphouse...................................... 25 Mount Baker Foothills Chamber........... 13 Mount Baker Mountain Guides.............. 43 Mount Baker Ski Area.............................. 48 Nathan McAllister, Attorney at Law...... 43 North Cascades Institute........................ 31 North Cascades Mountain Guides....... 49 North Cascades Mountain Hostel...........9 North Fork Brewery................................ 38 Northwest Behavorial.............................. 11 Northwest Navigation............................. 13 NW European Autoworks...................... 19 PeaceHealth................................................ 23 Peoples Bank.................................................3

Recreation Northwest - NW Traverse....45 Rema Fit Rowing Studio.......................... 17 Run of the River Inn................................. 22 Sally Farrell - Coldwell Bain Real Estate.............................................. 24 San Juan Sailing........................................... 11 Skagit Valley Food Co-op......................... 19 Sustainable Connections......................... 48 TD Curran.................................................. 52 Terra............................................................. 35 The Bagelry...................................................9 The Jazz Project - Bellwether Jazz Festival..................................................... 47 The ReStore............................................... 44 The Table..................................................... 24 Tour de Whidbey....................................... 46 Village Books.............................................. 19 Vital Choice Wild Seafood...................... 16 Whatcom Educational Credit Union.... 35 Whatcom Events..........................................2 Whatcom Family YMCA.......................... 31 Whatcom Transportation Authority..... 30 Whidbey Island Bank...................................5 Yoga NW.................................................... 24 Yoga with Susan D’Onofrio.................... 31 Zaremba Paxton PS.................................. 42 Zervas Law................................................. 40

>>> View or download even MORE Race|Play|Experience

12 March (cont.) - 24 May 2015 healthy year ahead. www.recreationnorthwest.org/events/recreationnorthwest-expo/

MAY >>> Sunday, 24 May SPECIAL Ski To Sea Race––Mt. Baker to Bellingham, 7:45 am – 6:00 pm.The Original Adventure Race! Ski to Sea Race-May 24, 2015 – Limit of 500 Teams.

A Relay Race of Seven Race Legs – Seven

Different Sports – Over 90 Miles.The Ski to Sea Festival includes a 93.5 mile relay Race of seven venues from Mount Baker to Bellingham Bay encompassing seven different sports.The Festival also includes a community block party with music and food, a Junior Ski to Sea Race, a historical hometown parade, and other special events that provide a wide variety of entertainment and adventure for all who participate. www.skittosea.com

ANW

Putting smiles on skiers faces all winter long

Go with the locals

509−996−3194 ncmountainguides.com info@ncmountainguides.com

360.676.1977 • www.lithtexnw.com

event listings at AdventuresNW.com

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Sahale Glacier Camp photo by Andy Porter It had been many years since my last backpacking trip. Not sure where to head, I got out an old trail guide and found the most awesome-sounding trip in North Cascades National Park. Having forgotten the price one pays for mileage and elevation gain, I gleefully started up the Sahale Arm trail in the late afternoon. We arrived after dark and collapsed, completely exhausted and utterly spent. The morning glow awoke me and I climbed out of the tent to see where I was and was greeted with this view.

This image will be on exhibition at the Smithsonian Museum in Washington, D.C. this September as a part of the year-long Wilderness 50 Celebration. Check out more of Andy’s photography at northwesternimages.com

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