Adventures NW Summer 2013

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KRISTEN CARTER

GOING THE DISTANCE PADDLING

THE OLYMPIC COAST

HIKING

VANISHING GLACIERS

DIVING

CAR-FREE AT SKI TO SEA

TO A CASCADES GEM WITH SEA LIONS >>> EXTENSIVE OUTDOOR EVENTS CALENDAR INSIDE

LAKE WHATCOM’S (BIG) NEW PARK DENNIS WALTON’S BLACK (AND WHITE) MAGIC

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CONTRIBUTORS Ken Campbell is a paddle sports instructor with expedition experience in Washington, California, British Columbia and Newfoundland. In addition to authoring several books on Pacific Northwest kayaking, he is a long-time presenter at symposia and clinics throughout the region. With the Ikkatsu Project, Ken has turned his efforts to environmental issues that affect our oceans, focusing on increasing awareness of the dangers to our fragile shorelines and finding ways that they can be protected.

Tom Chisholm is a mountaineer, musician and carpenter from Bellingham, WA. He loves to ride his bike, play his guitar and go on road trips with his wife and kids. Tom recently became a Grandpa and hopes someday to be the oldest man ever to climb Mt. Rainier.

Alan Kearney has been writing and publishing photos since 1975, and earning a full-time living at it for the past 22 years. In addition to putting up numerous first ascents in Alaska, Patagonia, and the Cascades, he has published three books; Mountaineering In Patagonia, Color Hiking Guide To Mount Rainier, and Classic Climbs Of The Northwest. He has lived in Bellingham since 1981. Check out his glacier blog at alankearneyphotography.blogspot.com.

Chris and Jess Newley have been documenting their adventures together ever since meeting in San Francisco six years ago. From traveling on a motorcycle through Southeast Asia, to living in Africa and falling in love with “the underworld” - they are now on a path towards education and conservation of the marine environment. Check out Sea-Front.org for more info.

SUMMER | 2013 Volume 8. Issue 2 shares with her husband Brett Baunton in Bellingham, Washington. Her work is exhibited across the United States, from the Bellagio in Las Vegas to Jacksonville, Florida. Locally, she is represented by the Lucia Douglas Gallery. Visit her website at dsnyderartist.com.

Dennis Walton is best known for his global travel photography. For Dennis the challenge is to capture an instant in time with an image that shows the essence of a person, place or scene. His work is represented by Lonely Planet and Getty Images and has been featured in various international print venues as well as on the media with BBC Travel in the UK. When he’s not exploring the world with his camera, he makes his home beside Lake Whatcom. Visit his website at: www.denniswalton.zenfolio.com

A Look Ahead: Our Autumn Issue Special Section: The North Cascades Best Hikes, Best Views Carnivores of the Cascades Overnight Bike Rides

Ted Rosen is a local writer whose exploits tend toward European travel and urban exploration. By interviewing local adventurers, he divines inspiration for himself and his readers.

Denise M. Snyder is a sculptor and avid outdoors woman who loves to hike and climb in the mountains of the Pacific Northwest. Her art is a response to the beautiful landscapes that surround her home and studio, which she

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INSPIRATIONS

Here’s To A Race Well Skied, CrossCountried, Ridden, Kayaked, Pedaled, Run, Paddled, And Of Course, Enjoyed.

IN THIS ISSUE

The Lake Whatcom Reconveyance Diminishing Returns The Vanishing Glaciers of the North Cascades

The Ikkatsu Project Exploring Connections on the Olympic Coast

Going the Distance The Ongoing Journey of Kristen Carter

Black (and White) Magic Nostalgia in the Mountains

Lake Ann A Gem in the North Cascades

Playing with Pinnipeds The Sea Lions of Hornby Island

DESTINATIONS Out & About eARTh: The Art of Nature Cascadia Gear Race | Play | Experience Calendar Advertiser Index Next Adventure

9 39 42 44 48 49

COVER Kristen Carter

Photo by Tyler Mitchell/TMitchellPhoto.com

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Tom Chisholm

10

Alan Kearney

14

Ken Campbell

18

Ted Rosen

22

Dennis Walton

26

John D’Onofrio

28

Chris Newley

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“We live in a wonderful world that is full of beauty, charm and adventure. There is no end to the adventures that we can have if only we seek them with our eyes open.”

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SUMMER | 2013 Volume 8. Issue 2

> FIND Adventures NW is available free at hundreds of locations region-wide: throughout Whatcom, Skagit, San Juan, and Island counties, at select spots in Snohomish, King, and Pierce counties, and in Leavenworth, the Methow Valley, Spokane, and Wenatchee. The magazine is also available at all REI locations in Washington and Oregon as well as at numerous locations in the Vancouver, BC metro area and through races and events and at area visitor centers.

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Celebrate Summer!

Summer is the glory season here in Cascadia. We’ve paid our dues in rain and darkness and have the receipts to prove it. We are ready for some fun in the sun. And what fun there is! Our biggest problem is deciding what to do on any given weekend; hike, bike, run, paddle - the options are limited only by our imagination and ambition. In summer, there is no better place to be.

And our opportunities continue to expand - this spring the Whatcom County Council voted to re-convey 8,440 acres around Lake Whatcom, shifting it from state control to the county parks department, and in the process creating a new park that is the eighth-largest county park in the U.S.!

In this issue, Tom Chisholm traces the history of these lands and offers tantalizing glimpses of potential future recreational opportunities that this new park could provide. The debate over the reconveyance was contentious and sometimes heated, with factions divided along the age-old lines of economics versus the environment. However, as Tom points out, this kind of polarization may be coming to an end as emerging studies reveal the economic value of protecting the environment.

A 2012 study, entitled West is Best: How Public Lands in the West Create a Competitive Economic Advantage (released by independent, non-partisan research organization, Headwaters Economics) makes a strong case for the significant economic

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benefits available to communities that develop their public lands for recreation and conservation.

Among the key findings are: • Entrepreneurs and talented workers are choosing to work where they can enjoy outdoor recreation and natural landscapes.

• Increasingly, chambers of commerce and economic development associations in every western state are using the region’s national parks, monuments, wilderness areas and other public lands as a tool to lure companies to relocate.

• High-wage services industries also are using the west’s national parks, monuments, wilderness areas and other public lands as a tool to recruit and retain innovative, high-performing talent.

The study makes for very interesting reading and is directly pertinent to the Reconveyance. We’ve posted a link to the complete report at AdventuresNW.com on the Outdoor Resources page: Check it out - and enjoy your Cascadian summer!

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Out&About

Ski to Sea Race adds car-free division for 2013

I

t started with the Star-Speckled Banana Slugs in 2009. They were the first Ski to Sea team to attempt the audacious goal of competing in this most storied of northwest relay races sans automobiles. That’s right, they managed to overcome the logistical challenges of moving racers, bikes, skis...and canoe without the aid of internal combustion engines.

two years ago. “My first Ski to Sea team was the car-free Kiss Army in 2011. I built a canoe for the race. It took so long to build that I never had time to practice; my partner and I were learning the J-stroke on YouTube the night before. I got sick from sleep deprivation plus coffee plus beer. The paint was still wet on race day and the bottom of the boat developed a permanent crust of sand. Yet unspeakably fun.”

Graves explains the logistics that the Slug Force Slime will deploy: “On Friday

What might have seemed like an isolated case of wild-eyed zealotry began to catch on. Two more car-free teams formed in 2010. Then in 2011 there were six, and four more in 2012.

Simon Graves, captain of a carfree team this year (Slug Force Slime) says, “throughout the years, various people have asked the race administration if a car-free division could be formed, and the response has always been that once ten teams register car-free, then they can create a new Hunter Verner hauls his canoe division.

Photo by Jason Byal “So this year we rallied and recruited until ten teams were comthe team rides our bicycles with all our mitted and registered, and the Race gear as a group (with other teams) from Administration [Whatcom Events] imBellingham to the Silver Fir Campground, mediately followed through on their near the DOT station where the road promise.” The result is the new car-free bike leg starts. On Saturday the canoeists, division which will debut at this year’s mountain biker, and kayaker ride back to race on May 26th. town to be near their starting positions.

“I think it’s too cool,” enthuses The skiers, runner, and road cyclist relax Whatcom Events Executive Director Mel on Saturday.

Monkelis. “I don’t know of another race “Sunday morning, the skiers and in the country like this, that has a carrunner ride up the mountain on their free division. As a race that has reached bikes with their skis. Since the runner around the globe for its racers, the Ski to won’t be riding back down, she rides up Sea race has always remained true to its on a tandem bike with a skier, who rides community roots.” the bike down solo. Alternatively, they all Graves was introduced to Ski to Sea stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.

go up with single bikes and the runner’s bike comes down on a trailer. The road cyclist takes off and one of the skiers or the runner agrees to pull his camping gear home for him.

“The canoe can happen a few ways.

In the past, the mountain biker and canoeists have ridden from Bellingham to Everson, towing the canoe and paddles in a trailer. After dropping off the boat and canoeists, the mountain biker pulls their bikes and the trailer to Ferndale and they tow it home. Alternatively, the road cyclist could tow the trailer and bikes to the race finish so the mountain biker is fresh for his leg. Or the canoe can be brought out the night before and left overnight. This year, our canoeists may float to the race start from further up the river. The possibilities are endless.

“Our kayaker is planning to roll her kayak down to the water, race her leg, and then paddle home. Simple.”

Simple or not, the car-free concept has clearly caught on, reflecting the area’s leading-edge environmental ethic and audacity.

“There is a rich spirit of adventure in this part of the world,” Graves agrees.

“Doing something crazy - or ordinary - on a bicycle is what most of us would choose to do on any given weekend, and riding bikes with friends has been my favorite pastime since about the second grade.”

Monkelis sums it up. “Just think of it, the car-free teams get to enjoy the beautiful countryside we have here in the northwest even more!”

Visit AdventuresNW.com for complete listings of Outdoor events through 2013

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Lake Whatcom Reconveyance: A Watershed Event

Story and photos by Tom Chisholm

O

n March 12th of this year the Whatcom County Council approved a measure that will convert 8,844 acres of timber land around Lake Whatcom into the largest county park in the state. It will halt clear-cut logging and the construction of twenty miles of gravel road on the land above our drinking water source.

This is great news, but it symbolizes something even more important. It may just mark a transformation in our thinking about the land that we call home, a shift from our legacy of gratuitous resource extraction to an approach that honors the innate beauty and bounty of our remarkable landscapes.

Extraction One hundred years ago Whatcom County had really just come alive. It was our grandparents’ time- the era of railroads and robber barons, steam ships and sawmills, harpoons and homesteads. The native people had been pushed out of the

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way and industry sprang up on every shore and stream. Everywhere an entrepreneur looked, he saw the fruit of nature’s patient efforts, ripe for the picking.

Coal miners burrowed under Bellingham and South Lake Whatcom.

Enormous salmon canneries in Fairhaven processed the harvest of a vast fishing fleet.

Land was cleared and drained, estuaries were diked and wetlands filled. Nowhere was the insatiable thirst for nature’s abundance more apparent than on the hillsides and shorelines around Lake Whatcom.

Immense groves of giant firs and cedars spread along the steep shoulders of the lake. For thousands of years these trees had sunk their roots into red sandstone soils, anchoring the sediments and slowing the velocity of the generous Pacific Northwest runoff. They grew to astonishing heights and their branches spread like herculean shelters above thousands of stratified ground cover plants. Mammals, birds and insects nested and took refuge below. The lakeside forest, this stolid force of seemingly indestructible trees must have seemed like nature’s skyscrapers, its

culminating structure, formidable and permanent.

By the time the stock market crashed in 1929, Lake Whatcom’s forest was gone.

Cleared off by the cross-cut saw, the logs were floated down the lake to Bellingham where the strong, straight-grained wood was milled into framing studs, ceiling joists and flooring. The landowners who’d cashed in on the trees soon abandoned their now-denuded holdings and the steep acres became county surplus land due to tax delinquency. The hillsides eroded, the biological diversity vanished, and fires consumed the slash left behind. Finally the State of Washington took control of the forlorn forest and began to manage it for ever-diminishing future timber revenues.

Our parents inherited shut-down mines and rows of rotting pilings where canneries once stood. Sawmills were in decline and the big Bloedel-Donovan mill located at Lake Whatcom’s outlet stream ran out of logs. The writings of John Muir and Aldo Leopold began to resonate with the new stewards of the land and lakes.

Some felt cheated out of the natural beauty they had known as children. Some were left empty-handed by industries that had shut down due to over-fishing, overreaching and over-harvesting. Around Lake Whatcom the hills looked raw and scorched. Our community struggled ahead on the remnants of its extractable resources. The “old days” took on the patina of paradise lost.

Then came our time. All over the country, nature had succumbed to suburbs and sidewalks, chainsaws and concrete.

Young people left Southern California, New York, Chicago and Detroit for places where clean water and unspoiled open space weren’t already a lost cause. Many >>> Go to AdventuresNW.com

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Park with a view: Looking northwest from a proposed campsite on Lookout Mountain

came to Bellingham where the degradation of land and air was just beginning to hit us in our own back yards. Bellingham Bay was so polluted that Greenpeace sent the Rainbow Warrior into our harbor to protest the further dumping of toxics into the water. Grizzly bears and wolves were poisoned and hunted to local extinction. Salmon streams were dredged and straightened and choked with fertilizerfed grasses.

Around Lake Whatcom, the

Washington State Department of Natural Resources planted mono-cultural stands of Douglas Fir and Hemlock, spraying the hillsides with herbicides to ensure that competition from natural succession forest species wouldn’t inhibit the growth of ready-for-the-saw logs. These sterile forest plantings were auctioned off and clear-cut as often as possible to maximize revenue for the state, leaving no time for roots to re-anchor the landslide prone slopes.

Hillsides gave way during heavy winter

rains, creeks filled with silt and logging slash. Debris dams backed up pools of muddy water until they burst, sending angry torrents down to the lake shore; washing mud, logs, homes and people into Bellingham’s drinking water.

McMansions were constructed on the last buildable parcels of shoreline.

Lake Whatcom’s game fish were found to have dangerous levels of toxins in them and the purity of the water was compromised. We read Edward Abbey and hiked

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the mountain trails. We read Rachel Carson and kayaked the bay and the lakes. We read David James Duncan and explored the salmon streams. We knew we had to do something.

With our elders, we began to employ the skills and expertise that had been developed two decades prior, when society had refused to accept war and racial inequality. We wrote, sang, raised money, started non-profits, attended meetings, protested and carried out acts of civil disobedience. People of all generations joined hands and voices in an organized effort to save this awesome community from the fate of so many mill towns and retirement meccas up and down the coast.

Evolution

County Council. Many of them won.

The Lake Whatcom Watershed Advisory Board was established to identify key tracts of land around the lake to purchase for water quality enhancement in 2001, leading to the adoption of the Lake Whatcom Landscape Plan in 2005, reducing the rate of clear-cutting within the watershed.

And finally, after six years of talking, planning, mapping, meeting, and debating, on March 12th, the County Council approved the Reconveyance, insuring protection for almost half of Lake Whatcom’s watershed.

Citizens from every walk of life, young and old, attended meeting after meeting to voice their support for the Lake Whatcom Reconveyance, and when they were done they had created two 4000+ acre blocks of county park land to be managed for old growth forest habitat, watershed protection and non-motorized recreation, adding a key link in a chain of protected public lands stretching from Bellingham Bay to the North Cascades National Park. Wow!

An evolving culture began to emerge, and, once established, took root quickly. The Whatcom Land Trust was formed to help preserve our county from urban sprawl in 1984. RE Sources began recycling services in 1985. The Greater Ecosystem Alliance (now Conservation Northwest) began efforts to protect wildlife habitat in 1989. The Nooksack Salmon Enhancement Association began Remnant of what once was: Ancient trees Vision rise in scattered stands above Lake Whatcom restoring fish-bearing streams in 1990.

And what about our chilCitizens began to make dren? What will their story be? I their voices heard. In 1990, a vote of the people established imagine a 50-mile corridor of protected forest environment with the Bellingham Greenways Levy to buy choice parcels of open trails and back-country huts stretching from Bellingham to the space for conservation and recreation. The Whatcom County spine of the North Cascades. I see neighborhoods rich in open Conservation Futures Fund was established in 1992 to purchase space, linked by trails connecting individuals and families to and protect prime natural open space and agricultural land. A forests that purify their drinking water and the mountains that new breed of environmentally-inclined activists began to run for inspire their imaginations.

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I see new business generated by ecotourism, and clean industry locating here because of the unparalleled quality of life.

I see individuals moving here, passionate about preserving - and enjoying- nature, and joining the efforts to save, protect and reestablish the natural beauty of Whatcom County.

This is a vision but it’s not a dream. The Reconveyance already provides us with a 20-mile loop of recreational land circling Lake Samish by way of Larrabee State Park, Blanchard Mountain, Squires Lake Park, Lookout Mountain, Galbraith Mountain, Lake Padden Park and Chuckanut Mountain.

Recreation-based business are growing. Running, biking and kayaking bring in many thousands of tourist dollars. The number grows larger every year. Public meetings are filled with energized, passionate defenders of nature.

What do you see? Get a Washington State Public Lands map and start plotting your course. You might be able to pencil in a route from salt water to alpine summits that passes right through your back yard.

No one person can envision all the ways that the Lake Whatcom Reconveyance will influence the future of our community. Like the long process that has led us to this defining moment, our future will be built by all of us, collectively creating a place that just might embody the idea known as ANW Cascadia.

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Diminishing The Vanishing Glaciers of the North Cascades Story and photos by Alan Kearney

I

live only 40 miles away from the most extensive collection of glaciers in the lower 48 states. The North Cascades are home to some 800 glaciers; 14 of them on Mount Baker alone.

It is a fantastic opportunity to observe these unique landforms close up, something I have been doing since 1972. Besides their obvious beauty, they are a major source of freshwater throughout the year. Long after the seasonal snows have disappeared in late summer, glacial ice continues to melt, supplying streams and rivers. That same freshwater is good for salmon and other species as well.

The Easton Glacier

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Returns A glacier is a permanent snowfield that has acquired enough mass and gradient to begin moving. Old snow re-crystallizes and is transformed into ice. The tremendous pressure of the ice pressing down on bedrock causes melting, water acts as a lubricant and enables the ice to move by basal sliding. The accumulation zone is high on the glacier where snow does not melt away entirely in the summer heat. Snow compacts and eventually becomes ice. These upper zones also receive snowfall in the summer, since even in the Cascades it sometimes snows during June, July and August. Summer snows add little to accumulation, but the fresh white bright layer of new snow slows melting due to the albedo effect, or reflectivity of surfaces. Of course when there is virtually no summer snowfall, and temperatures are hotter, more melting occurs.

The ablation zone is the lower zone on the glacier where the years snow is melting away; and in September one can sometimes observe the zone of demarcation between accumulation and ablation. This is called the firn line. Firn is a German word meaning old snow that has survived one or more seasons, and is in a state of transition to glacier ice.

When accumulation exceeds ablation the glacier advances. An advancing glacier is characterized by a bulbous snout of cleaner ice, and may even bulldoze down brush or small trees that grew up during a previous stagnant period. A retreating glacier has a dirty tapered snout of ice, and piles and ridges of morainal debris nearby.

As the river of ice moves down the stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.

mountain the brittle ice (upper 100 feet) cracks in response to the topography of the bedrock underneath, and differences in rate of flow. The cracks are called crevasses. Beneath 100 feet the ice is more plastic (like Silly Putty) due to the great pressure from the weight above. Icefalls are those dramatic areas of the glacier where ice is moving rapidly over a steeper section or cliff of bedrock. It cracks and shatters on every side, forming spectacular towers of ice known as seracs.

Photographic Comparisons I didn’t set out to document glaciers, but mainly to climb up or cross those icy fields to reach many of our craggy summits. During those mountain adventures I captured many beautiful scenes with my camera, including glaciers from different perspectives. Eight years ago I began to pull out some of my photographs of glaciers from the early 1980’s, and realized that I ought to return to the same locations and reshoot those glaciers, to see what changes had taken place. Carrying with me an 8 x 10 color print of the original photo, I would revisit the far-flung vantage points where the originals were taken, finding the same location late in the season (when the seasonal snow had melted away), and shooting at about the same time of day, to produce similar lighting.

Now for my photographic comparisons: the originals were photographed between 1981 and 1987, and the comparisons shot between 2005 and 2012.

The easiest glacier to get to and photograph was the Coleman Glacier on the

north side of Mount Baker; an uphill hike of about 2-1/2 miles. I taught ice climbing on the Coleman Glacier all through the 1980’s for a local guide service.

Even so when I began examining my old photos, I didn’t have very many of the glacier from the best perspective.

But I think that the following images show the loss in ice thickness really well, and the dramatic recession of the distant Roosevelt Glacier.

1981

2005

COLEMAN & ROOSEVELT GLACIERS As you can see from these first images, I took pains to return close to the same spot where the earlier photo was taken.

The next set of glacier images were shot along the Ptarmigan Traverse that follows the Cascade Crest from Cascade Pass south to Spire Point, and eventually to Downey Creek. This classic traverse is one of my favorites in the range for scenic race | play | experience

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wonder, strenuous but not overly technical travel, and spectacular peaks, lakes, and glaciers.

Planning a Ptarmigan trip during good weather is a must (mid-July to mid-

September). One also needs five to seven days to appreciate the surroundings, and compatible partners who know how to travel safely on a glacier. Finding the exact location of the next shot of the Le Conte Glacier below Old Guard and Sentinel Peaks was not nearly as easy as photographing the glaciers on Baker. An alpine traverse is a much bigger time commitment, and a change in the weather on the crucial day can ruin the photographic mission. I felt that we were on schedule for capturing the same light on the Le Conte Glacier as we crossed the Middle Cascade Glacier on day two.

Once over the Spider/Formidable col, the climber’s path traverses beneath the southeast side of Mount Formidable across talus slopes and snowfields.

Holding my 8 x 10 print in my left hand and ice axe in my right hand, I scrutinized the distant scene and tried to align Yang Yang Lakes up with the glacier. I shot some preliminary photos, kept descending toward the lakes, and finally in a patch

of heather before the path dropped off steeply, everything fell into place. Using the same campsites as in 1981 helped us reach the photo locations close to the same time of day.

1981

2006

LE CONTE GLACIER After camping at Yang Yang Lakes the second night, we climbed toward the next photo location; the summit of Le Conte Mountain. With only a rope, water bottles and snacks, we scrambled up toward what would become the most Between Milepost 20 - 21 Mt. Baker Hwy., Deming Ph 360/599-BEER (2337) www.northforkbrewery.com

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impressive view of a glacier on the traverse. Once up the class three and four loose rock, we reached the airy summit where I pulled out my print. The South Cascade Glacier had receded dramatically in 25 years. The tapered snout had pulled way back from the pea-green morainal lake below the ice, and much bedrock was newly exposed.

2006

1981

SOUTH CASCADE GLACIER

Last in this collection of glacier photos is another one close to home, the Easton Glacier on Mount Baker’s southwest side. To get the shot required a hike of three miles and 1600 feet to a bench with tarns just below Park Butte.

For my early photo of the Easton Glacier in 1987 I carried a 13-pound Korona Gundlach 8 x 10 view camera up to the tarns near Park Butte. Of course in this digital age the concept of carrying and shooting film is difficult to grasp, but the Gundlach camera shot a sheet of color film that was 8 x 10 inches in size. Each film holder had two sheets of film in it, and I carried five holders. Only ten exposures were possible on one trip. In the photos below one can

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clearly see the loss in thickness of the ice in 25 years, especially low on the glacier.

1987

2012

EASTON GLACIER I have many more glaciers to photograph in the upcoming years; the Forbidden, Deming, Challenger and Lower Curtis Glaciers are tops on my list.

Also, returning to some of the glaciers in this article, to observe the changes in the last eight years, might be enlightening!

Glaciers continue to carve and shape the North Cascades, giving this range some of the most striking and charismatic summits in our country.

ANW

Alan Kearney’s Photography Workshops To raise awareness of what is happening to our glaciers, Alan has started offering photography workshops from one to three days in length.

Participants will learn the many functions of their digital cameras, plus lighting, composition, and the very best locations to obtain superb photographs. To learn more about these - including his Vanishing Glacier workshop at Mount Baker - visit alankearney.com/glaciers

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17

The Ikkatsu Project Exploring Connections on the Olympic Coast Story by Ken Campbell Photos courtesty of the Ikkatsu Project

“T

he edges of any landscape,” writes Barry Lopez in his landmark book, Arctic Dreams, “quicken an observer’s expectations. That attraction to borders, to the earth’s twilit places, is part of the shape of human curiosity.”

When the border in question is the nebulous zone between land and ocean, the resulting curiosity is even more intense. Every once in a while, something happens to crash those borders, to remind us that the wild sea is not what separates us from the rest of the world; instead, it is what joins us together. It is this connection, the tie between people and cultures across the largest ocean on Earth, that was the focus of what the Ikkatsu expedition set out to explore.

On March 11th, 2011, the Tōhoku earthquake, centered off the coast of northern Honshu Island, generated powerful tsunami waves that slammed into 400 miles of the Japanese shoreline. Entire towns were wiped off the map by waves up to 120 feet high.

When the waters finally receded, more than 20,000 people were dead or missing and millions were left homeless, their world changed forever.

On this side of the

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Pacific, the roadless coast between by the ocean currents. Some of what Cape Flattery and Ruby Beach in remained afloat began to arrive on the Washington’s Olympic National Park is west coast of the Olympic Peninsula as among the last of the large wilderness early as the fall of 2011, visible proof coastlines remaining in the contiguous of an unseen region that had absorbed United States. Almost everywhere else, so much of the ocean’s wrath.

The Olympic coast has always been from Maine to Florida, along the fragile beaches of the Gulf Coast and up a special place for me, both as a kayaker and as someone and down the who values wild Pacific shore, places. As part development of an effort to and centuries understand and of human “imdocument the p r o v e m e n t s” scope of the have changed Japanese tragthe nature of edy and how the coastal enviit would affect ronment. Here our own shoreon the edge of line, the Ikkatsu the continent, expedition was however, it is set up to travel still possible to to some of the move through most remote a border region beaches on the between land roadless coast and sea that is soccer ball on the beach at the Chilean Memorial. This ball of Washinglargely intact, Atravelled the Pacific from the small Japanese coastal town of Otsuchi after the tsunami of March 11, 2001, devastated the ton’s Olympic that still retains community. 6,000 miles later, it came to rest on this quiet Peninsula durall the wonder stretch of sand ing the summer and power that of 2012. The team consisted of three has disappeared elsewhere.

More than five million tons of kayakers – Steve Weileman, Jason debris – boats, cars, buildings and a Goldstein and myself - who planned host of everyday items – was washed to survey these isolated shorelines in out to sea by the powerful tsunami search of the debris that had arrived waves. Some of it never left Japanese already, as well as establish a baseline for waters, sinking quickly to the bottom, debris against which further accumulabut the rest began a voyage of sorts, a tions could be measured.

The name Ikkatsu is a Japanese journey from one side of the Pacific to the other, carried inexorably eastward term that means “together,” or “united

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as one.” I came up with the idea to assign this name to our project because of what I saw as the underlying reality that the tsunami – as well as other marine debris - so tragically demonstrates.

We are all in this together and events that take place on the other side of the world have a profound effect on us here at home. There are connections between us, regardless of where we find ourselves, connections that we are only beginning to understand.

In the northern portions of our route, we paddled among the rugged and beautiful spires and rock gardens near Cape Flattery. The confused currents and sizable waves made for interesting conditions, but our efforts were rewarded with world-class kayaking moments: sea caves and arches all around, wildlife everywhere in the sky and the water, and the chance to go to places that few others got to see.

Conditions were remarkably benign over the course of the trip, with a few exceptions. In fact, there was only one day when the conditions were adverse enough to keep us off the water.

The Washington coast is notorious for rough waves and high winds but we were fortunate.

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lumber that had been smashed by the waves on the nearby reef.

A little further south, near the Chilean Memorial, we came across a soccer ball on the beach. Kanji lettering (that was later translated for us by members of the Japanese media), indicated that it had come from Otsuchi, a small town that was decimated by the earthquake and tsunami, from a soccer club that may not even exist anymore. Efforts are currently underway to return the ball to its point of origin, to complete what must have been a truly epic journey.

Throughout the expedition, I was struck by the paradox that the ocean represents. Something that is so beautiful and that is capable of supporting life at every level, can change without warning, strike without mercy and kill without pity.

Even when we were surfing our boats through the arches at Shi Shi Beach or exploring the far sides of some of the offshore islands, out among the Third Beach, in the fog. The Olympic shoreline is studded with these broad rolling swells and reveling in small, sandy beaches, bookended with rocky outcroppings and the wonder of it all, I was still aware seastacks of the power and the forces that were all around me, sleeping just below the concentrated further north along the surface. The fact that it was this same sea, route. We found a portion of a house this benign and nurturing ocean, that had washed ashore just north of Hobuck exacted such a toll on a culture so many Beach and were able to identify sevmiles away, was something that was never eral items that led us to believe we had far from my mind. discovered the remains of a bathroom.

The Ikkatsu Expedition was a lifeMedicine bottles, a laundry hamper, a changing experience for the three of us child’s potty seat: these and other things who made the trip. It will take some were entangled in a large pile of Japanese We encountered a staggering selection of debris at every stop, although most of the items that could be identified as coming from the tsunami were

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time to fully sort through the things we learned along the way; we have since produced an award-winning documentary of the project and are currently planning the next chapter in this story, a trip to a remote Alaskan island set for July of 2013.

Through it all, we’ll continue the search for tsunami and other marine debris and try to make sense of the things the ocean has to teach us.

It is a large ocean, but it’s a small planet.

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ANW

The 2013 Ikkatsu Expedition is scheduled for July, when team members will once again use kayaks to explore the shores of Augustine Island, Alaska, conducting beach debris surveys and monitoring sea birds for ingested plastic. More info on the Ikkatsu Project can be found at www.ikkatsuproject.org .

Tatoosh Island debris: Next to polystyrene, single-use plastic bottles were the most commonly found items

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21

Going the Distance The Ongoing Journey of Kristen Carter Story by Ted Rosen

R

unning is primal. When our ancestors descended from the trees and became bipedal on the African savannah, our long-distance running skills were unparalleled. We chased down gazelles and covered vast distances, eventually spreading across the globe.

We still have this skill but few of us employ it. Most of us are content to walk, bike or drive to our daily errands. There is no need to chase down a steak at the grocery store.

Instead, we enjoy running for the serenity and strength it provides.

The vast majority of runners do it for fitness.

They jog along, hoping to improve their moderate pace. Then, there is a smaller number of accomplished runners. They joined their track or cross country teams in school and continue to post good times in local charity races.

Then, there are the Elite runners. Kristen Carter of Bellingham is one of them.

She does what seems impossible to

Running Bellingham’s beautiful waterfront Photo by Tyler Mitchell/TMitchellPhoto.com

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the rest us. She maintains a blistering pace mile after mile after mile. As an elite marathoner, discipline and desire have launched her to the very top of American athletics.

We recently spoke over coffee.

Slender and muscular, the 26-year-old has the classic bearing of an Olympic athlete. I asked her about her background.

“I grew up right here in Bellingham.

My family is from here. I have three siblings, we all live in town still.

I spent four years in Pennsylvania and two in Ohio, going to university. I played soccer when I was kid, up through 8th grade. In 9th grade I tried out for varsity soccer and didn’t make it. I was upset about that, so my Dad suggested I try cross country.”

Thus began the career of a young hopeful who would blossom into a world-class athlete. Like most athletes, her journey had fits and starts that challenged her devotion yet guided her to evergreater accomplishments.

“Coming out of high school, I went to a Division III college.

I knew I wasn’t Div I or Div II material. At my Division III school I started dropping about 45 seconds a season on my 5K and 6K times, which is huge.

So in high school I was an OK varsity runner, but in college in my sophomore year I really started to emerge. That was the first year I went to the National Championship.”

Kristen went on to win the Winter National Championship three times.

She became an All-American (Top 35 in the USA) in her junior year. She won the Division III ‘Sportsman of the Year’ award, which is given to just one woman among all the sports categories.

The girl who didn’t make the varsity soccer team was now among the most elite athletes in the country. There was only one place to go: ever upward.

“I was in grad school, working with the coach there. He sat me down and stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.

said I needed to start training for the Olympic trials. That was the first time that idea had been put in my mind! It was nine months before the last chance to qualify, so I had a nine month window to train for my first marathon.”

And qualify she did! With her blazing time at the California International Marathon (her first ever marathon, if you can believe it), Kristen became a qualified Olympic hopeful. After finish-

Breaking the tape at the Columbus, Ohio Capital City Half Marathon

Photo courtesy Capital City Half Marathon

ing grad school, she continued to run.

And not just “well”, but with passion and brilliance. She began a series of marathon first place wins that would direct her all the way to Boston.

She won first place in the Columbus Capital City Half-Marathon, and then another first-place win in the Athens (Ohio) Half Marathon.

Moving back to her home in Bellingham, Kristen went on to win the Bellingham Bay Half Marathon.

Her string would continue as she placed first in the Whidbey Island marathon.

She earned an official sponsorship from Brooks Sports, a major manufacturer of running gear.

Then came a bigger challenge: the Seattle Marathon.

“My high school coach Bill McClement won the Seattle Marathon 30 years ago. I decided to race Seattle and win it as a tribute to him. A couple of weeks before, the New York Marathon had been canceled because of Hurricane Sandy. So several other Olympic trials qualifiers came out to run Seattle instead. I didn’t know this and I was figuring I could win the Seattle Marathon with a three hour time. At the start, the race director walked up to me and asked, ‘Are you Kristen Carter?’ and I said ‘Yeah’. He said, ‘You see those two girls over there? You’re going to have competition today!’ At that point I had to re-adjust my mindset. I walked up to him and told him it was ‘GAME ON’ time! I ran a little faster than I thought I had to.”

She sure did! An official time of 2:47:06 not only earned her the #1 spot among thousands of female runners, but it also broke the record for the fastest women’s time ever on the recently rerouted course. Her huge win in Seattle

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through five different parks: Whatcom Falls Park, Cornwall Park, Zuanich Park, Boulevard Park, and then through Fairhaven Park and continued out the Interurban trail.

How many other cities can you do that in? They’re not paved bike paths either; Emerging from the pack at the Lake Padden Half Marathon they are winding, Photo by Tyler Mitchell/TMitchellPhoto.com twisty, dirt trails. And they are beautiful! earned her a top spot in the 2013 Boston One of my favorite parts of living here is Marathon. that I can run a different trail every day of To dominate in Boston, she needed the week if I want.” to train. And according to Kristen, it’s Running for hours on end may not hard to beat Whatcom county for outbe everyone’s cup of tea, but even weekdoor running opportunities. end joggers enjoy the peace of mind that “I love Whatcom county because comes from the metronomic music of of the amazing assortment of trails. Last running. Kristen is no different.

Sunday, I ran 20 miles and was able to run “One of the reasons I love running

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so much is the meditative aspect. After a long day of work or if something is stressing me out, it’s my escape. Yesterday I finished up a long work week and all my co-workers talked about how they were going to crash on the couch to recover, and I said, ‘I’m gonna go for a run!’ They think I’m crazy, but that’s how I’m gonna relax, escape and mentally unwind.”

Kristen’s road to the Boston Marathon was long, but no one could have predicted it would go so terribly wrong in the end. To begin, her marathon run proved more trying than expected. She placed 34th among the women, with a time of 2:47:38. She outran thousands of competitors but didn’t quite meet her goal.

“I am looking at the Boston Marathon as a learning experience. I stood on the starting line with the elites: Olympians and record holders, and I psychologically lost my focus. I missed my goal, but I learned several key lessons that I believe were necessary to take my running to the next level. One exciting thing from the race is that my training partner, Amber Morrison, (who is also a Brooks sponsored athlete) placed 39th. That means Bellingham had two women in the top 50 finishers at Boston!

Not only that, but we were the top two Washington state finishers.”

As we all know, events turned very dark when two explosions rocked the finish line at Boston, killing three people and injuring scores more.

The world watched in horror as 24-hour news services televised the aftermath. Fortunately, Kristen’s fleet feet got her past the finish prior to the explosions. She and her running partner Amber escaped uninjured, but like everyone else at the race, she was deeply affected by the event.

“I had been staying at a hotel that was 30 feet from the first blast. However, after Amber and I had finished we went back to her hotel to celebrate with my boyfriend and her husband. Her hotel overlooked the 25-mile mark. We were >>> Go to AdventuresNW.com

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sitting by the window watching the runners go by. We started noticing that the runners were beginning to turn around and go away from the finish. We knew something was wrong.

“We turned on the TV and saw the coverage of the explosions. Within minutes our hotel was on lockdown and our phones didn’t work. Exhausted, dehydrated, and confused runners came into our hotel. The hotel owner immediately told his restaurant cooks to begin making grilled cheese sandwiches and bring them out to the runners. I read that nearly 5,000 runners passed the check point at mile 24.8 but never reached the finish line.

“It was an emotional week. I am thankful that Amber and the fans who came to watch us are all fine. I am also glad that Amber and I were together when the event happened. Processing the events with her will make it easier for me to step onto the starting line of my next race. Both Amber and I hope to run the Boston Marathon again.”

It’s safe to say that you will continue to see Kristen Carter running on the streets and trails of Whatcom county.

She’ll win more local races and we’ll cheer her on. She’ll return to Boston in 2014 and the country will cheer her on.

She’ll run in Rio in 2016 and the world ANW will cheer her on.

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25

Dennis Walton’s

Black (and White) Magic

T

he scenic beauty of the Pacific Northwest enthralls me. This splendor is what brought me here to live. The colors and patterns of the landscapes give even the most casual photographer the opportunity to take memorable landscape photographs. Recently I have become enamored with a more classic view of the mountains - black and white images. Using modern digital technology, I have been enjoying converting my digital color images into monochrome, emulating the shimmering tones of Kodak’s wonderful black and white films of a bygone era. I hope you enjoy the nostalgia.

Visit Dennis Walton’s website at www.denniswalton.zenfolio.com

See more of Dennis Walton’s images in his black & white gallery at AdventuresNW.com 26

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Clockwise from top: Cascade Panorama, Shuksan in the Clouds, Mt. Baker and Clouds, Artist Point, View from Winchester Mountain, Veiled Landscape

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27

Lake Ann A Gem in the North Cascades Story and photos by John D’Onofrio

I

t’s been said that Mount Shuksan is the most photographed mountain in the world and who am I to argue?

One certainly sees quite a bit of it in scenic calendars and the like. It possesses a graceful, almost elegiac beauty - a compelling combination of the pastoral and the unutterably harsh. It’s glaciers are an incandescent blue in mid-summer and it catches the alpenglow like nobody’s business. The classic view is from Heather Meadows, and - especially for all those photographers - the shores of Picture Lake, a tangle of tripods on a fine summer weekend.

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Lake Ann, often half-frozen even in midsummer, offers a spectacular vantage point for full-frontal views of Mount Shuksan

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The magic hour: Alpenglow illuminates the epic face of Shuksan at day’s end

But Shuksan has many faces and many stories to tell. The gothic drama of the Nooksack Tower from Hannegan Peak is one. But my favorite Shuksanwatching spot is Lake Ann, at the end of the 4.1 mile trail that bears its name. Its shoreline offers a front-row seat to contemplate the hanging Curtis Glacier and the soaring dark monoliths known as the Fisher Chimneys. On a calm day, the

lake’s reflection doubles your pleasure.

The trail itself is a delight, with a variety of ambiences. Highly unusual for the North Cascades, it begins with a descent. You’ll lose 800 feet in the first half hour, dropping through fragrant forest and into sweet green meadows (neon red in the autumn). An idyllic little mountain stream courses through the meadows, splashing over rocks in

the sun. I like to stop here and soak in the sights and sounds, already transported from the world of cars and noise. Immediate gratification. I’ll take it when I can get it.

Continuing on, you’ll traverse a rock slide on expertly-constructed and well-maintained trail and plunge back into the cool shadows of the forest.

When you reach Swift Creek there is a

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embarking from Bellingham’s Historic Fairhaven—the southern terminus of the Alaska Ferry—just 90 minutes north of Seattle and 60 minutes south of Vancouver, BC.

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junction where the (unmaintained) Swift Creek trail turns off to the south to follow the creek’s journey down into the valley of Baker Lake. Rock-hop across the creek and begin to climb, up into open rock and heather country.

You’ll regain all of the elevation that you lost by the time you reach the 4,800 foot saddle but the ever-expanding views will make the effort irrelevant. The rocks beneath the saddle are beautiful in their

Hikers climbing Shuksan Arm enjoy panoramic views that include Mt. Baker and the Border Peaks

own right - some with striation patterns that resemble Australian Aboriginal motifs, others like something from

Escher. Once you start looking, your ascent will slow. As you approach the saddle, Mount Baker dominates the sky.

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From the saddle you can look down over Lake Ann on the other side. Don’t be surprised if it’s half-frozen, even in late summer. If you’re backpacking, you’ll be able to determine what the

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tent population is around the lake.

Lake Ann is a popular destination, owing to its beauty and ready accessibility.

If it looks too crowded for you, pick up a scramble trail that heads up to the north from the saddle. This is the route up Shuksan Arm and its joys cannot be overstated.

There are fine places to pitch a tent up here.

If you push on to near the crest of the Arm, you will find a snowmelt stream coursing down through Rock patterns meadows noisy with the whistling of marmots.

And quite likely, relative solitude.

Perhaps, nirvana.

If the lakeside population is not too crowded for your tastes, follow the trail down to the lake. The views of Shuksan from these camps are magnificent.

If you have had the good sense to haul a pack in here, the opportunities for explorations from camp are numerous and delightful. The hike up Shuksan Arm, as mentioned earlier, is a “m u s t - d o” .

The way is steep at times, but constantly breathtaking.

At the crest, the northern horizon opens up and the monumental Border Peaks come into view, dark fangs against the

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sky. Tiny little tarns that serve as reflecting pools for Mount Baker can be found in the highest little meadows.

Another grand exploration can be had by climbing the ridge to the south of the lake and following it as far as you feel comfortable. The views are sensational every step of the way. Or follow the trail to the crumbling edge of the Curtis Glacier, and gaze into the blue depths. Many happy days could be spent pursuing these - and other - pleasures.

There are many great hikes in the North Cascades, but few offer such scenic splendor so easily attained. The hard part comes at the end, when you have to force yourself to leave. But there’s always next weekend... ANW

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Playing with Pinnipeds

Photo by Chris Newley

The Sea Lions of Hornby Island

Story by Chris Newley Photos by Jess and Chris Newley

T

he skies were a bit overcast as we pulled out of the harbor and, when the boat engines began to roar, the crisp morning air did its best to sneak into our dive suits, hoods and gloves. Despite the lack of sunlight and a few shivers, the Strait of Georgia was glassy calm.

We were heading out to what was sure to be one of the most memorable dives of our lives: an up-close and personal encounter with a threatened species, the Steller sea lion. As Captain Rob Zielinski idled the boat alongside the Steller’s haul-out, however, we started to get an idea of what we had gotten ourselves into - a welcoming committee of 30 or so barking, juvenile sea lions, practically climbing over each 34

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other to get next to our boat and bellow their burpy hellos in our face. They were surely friendly, and dying to play, but 300 pounds of yapping blubber makes one question this choice of recreational activities.

For the last two years, my wife Jess and I have been planning on making the pilgrimage to Hornby Island, a sleepy Canadian vacation spot off of Vancouver Island, famous in the dive community for its population of Steller sea lions.

Stellers are the really cute, cuddly pinnipeds that many may recognize from TV, balancing balls on their nose for fish and clapping with their fins when some handler rewards them. In the wild, though, you get a sense of their true spirit: full of energy, endlessly curious, gregarious and, when met on their terms, quite sociable.

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Endlessly curious, Stellars will swim right up to the boat to make sure you get their good side Photo by Jess Newley

Steller sea lions are the largest of the Otariids, or small-eared seal family. The Otariid family’s fossil record stretches back in the Northern Pacific for nearly 13 million years and today Steller sea lions inhabit a stretch of the Pacific Rim from California to the coast of Japan. According to a 2006 report from the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), there are 13 major rookeries, or breeding grounds, between Southeastern Alaska and San Francisco Bay, but surprisingly, despite the abundance of Stellers that we see around the Puget Sound and the San Juans, there are no documented rookeries in Washington State. There are, instead, large rookeries at the Scott Islands off northern Vancouver Island and Rogue Reef in southern Oregon, and it is in these areas that many of the sea lions around Hornby Island are born.

Male sea lion bulls show up at these rookeries from May to July and

soon thereafter the females arrive to mate. After a year of gestation, the females give birth to a single pup, which they then nurse for an additional year, staying fairly close to their breeding grounds. Once free of their mothers, though, these youngsters will showcase their inquisitive and adventurous spirits by traveling far and wide. In fact, the juveniles that are born in southern

Oregon make a 1,000 kilometer journey up the coast and into the Strait of Georgia, where they arrive just in time for one of the most spectacular migratory events in the world, the Pacific herring spawn.

The spawn is a migratory wonder - on a good year the biomass exceeds 150,000 tons. With it comes a slew of predators such as sea lions, orcas, white

Ride country roads on beautiful Whidbey Island Washington State, USA

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www.skagitfoodcoop.com stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.

Platinum Spoke Sponsor

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finding certain buttons on their camera sided dolphins, sharks, and a variety of when it isn’t placed inside its underwaseabirds, all of whom depend on this ter housing! spawn for food. As with many things After we made our own migration in our natural world, it is a delicate balnorth from Bellingham, we arrived at ance, played out on a huge scale, and an absolutely epic event to witness first hand.

Along with all of the predatory animals that are drawn to this area by the herring spawn, comes another curious animal, equal in it’s voracity for schools of fish and also willing to travel thousands of kilometers in its search of prey: the underwater photographer.

A strange beast indeed, the photographer will leave its family for days or weeks at a time in order to feed its voraA young sea lion poses for the camera Photo by Chris Newley cious appetite for photos of rarely seen species. So singleHornby Island Diving, a cozy, familyminded are many of these photograrun business with a 30-year history on phers that they sometimes have trouble

BARKLEY VILLAGE Family Dentistry

Preventative and Restorative Implant Crowns Crowns and Bridges Teeth Whitening Treatment for Bad Breath Kurt Swanson, D.D.S.

In the center of Barkley Village next to Haggen

Jessica Rogers, D.D.S.

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the island. Started by Bob Zielinski, one of the pioneering figures in diving off Vancouver Island, the resort is now run

by Bob’s son Rob and his wife Amanda.

We headed out to meet the pinnipeds face to face. When we jumped from the side of the dive boat, we were immediately greeted by enthusiastic young sea lions, swarming us from every direction as if daring each other to see how close they could get to these strange bubble-breathing humans. Once we descended to the sea bottom they came in waves, sometimes in groups of 10 or more, and nuzzled, pushed, tugged and nibbled from every direction. Sea lions in the wild are a lot like a giant pack of rambunctious, untrained Labrador puppies.

They will jump all over you, sniff you and, because they have no hands, they use their mouths to check out all the cool things that you have brought with you. You will quickly find that your hands, head, camera and other random bits of appendage - including dive gear - wind up in their mouths!

It seemed as if the water was churning around us with the frenetic energy of the exuberant pups fighting to get near us and figure out if we were friend, foe, food or just merely playthings. At one point, Jess and I were swimming around a corner of the reef when a pack

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descended on us from above. A couple of sea lions were nudging into my sides and belly while another deftly removed my mask from my head. Pinned to the ground, and unable to see anything, I calmly relaxed on the sea bottom and waited for Jess to come to my aid and give me my mask back. Unfortunately for me, the sea lion had taken his trophy and quickly swam away. Jess had to take my hand and lead me slowly back to the surface and the awaiting dive boat.

Once there, the others on the boat said that they had seen the sea lion surface with the mask in mouth and stare at the boat for a second as if to say, “Anybody else want to play?”

Despite the throngs that surrounded us in the icy water, Stellar sea lions are in trouble throughout their habitat.

Since the late 1980’s their populations have been in steady decline, and they have been added to the Endangered Species List. This decline is most apparent in the western population across Alaska’s Aleutian Islands, attributable to a number of factors including pollution, habitat degradation, oil exploration and drastic changes in their environment due to climate change.

Perhaps the most important factor, though, is the overfishing of their staple diet - the aforementioned herring. Sea lions, especially juveniles, depend on a

stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.

The annual herring spawn in the Strait of Georgia fuels a migratory wonder that is one of our backyard’s greatest treasures Photo by Jess Newley

high fat diet that has traditionally come from herring. Unfortunately, commercial fisheries in the Gulf of Alaska have decimated the herring populations

and the sea lion communities have had to depend on eating other, leaner fish such as pollock and flounder. This overfishing and change in diet has led

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to a whopping 80 percent decrease in the western population between the late 1970’s and today.

After a complete collapse of the herring stocks in the late 1960’s, a quota was put in place. Still, the number of herring spawning in the Georgia Strait today is less than half of what it was during the 1950’s. Conservation groups are now lobbying for herring to be included on the Endangered Species List as well.

During our time at Hornby Island, we were successful in capturing some compelling images of these amazing animals. We also came away with a new appreciation for what is now one of our favorite dive buddies, the Steller sea lion. Hopefully, with increased awareness about these animals, their habitat, and the importance of monitoring the commercial fishing of their food stocks, we can find a balance that will enable them to make our backyards their home for many years to come.

ANW Check out more of Jess and Chris Newley’s amazing underwater photography at AdventuresNW.com

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A Sense of Belonging: The Sculpture of Denise M. Snyder Scenes in nature inspire me, scenes that are so much of a part of our inner makeup that we feel a sense of belonging in their presence. This is where we come from and what we should stay in tune with. I work to create art where color, texture and depth makes one feel the spirit of the world out there, the world beyond walls, streets, and us.

At home in my studio I work with a variety of materials. It may be delicate sheets of paper, cut and formed to resemble fields of grass. Sometimes it is tree limbs, whole sections of limbs or bundles of fine branches. I clean them, perhaps peel their bark away, and usually polish or oil them. Whatever it takes to bring out their real luster. Then I think, ‘what form should this take to make a statement about its own beauty?’

Clockwise from top: All of My Friends, Music of Mali, Joyful Reunion, Abaca Nest

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The Alley District Thealleydistrict.com

L

ocated along the South Bay Trail connecting downtown to Old Fairhaven and just south of Depot Market Square, The Alley District is a collection of small businesses working together to promote art, sustainability, and community. Attractions include a community food and rain garden, outdoor seating for coffee, beer, and mead, an eclectic assortment of arts, and easy access to a scenic pedestrian and bike path that overlooks Bellingham Bay. www.artspreschool.com

www.baay.org

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The Alley District Thealleydistrict.com

Complimentary Drink with Local Art Purchase

The best colorist in Bellingham

The Alley District

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Cascadia Gear:

Essentials for your next Adventure Sierra Designs Garnet 20 Daypack The Sierra Designs Garnet 20 Daypack is a 19-liter panel-loader that is easy to like.

Our tester got to know the pack on a series of hikes on the island of Maui’i and she sang its praises. The Garnet 20 has a molded HDPE frame sheet, a balance between load-carrying comfort and relatively light weight. HDPE is a thermoplastic known for its high strength to weight ratio and also offers a reasonable combination between rigidity and flexibility. According to our tester, the padded frame sheet was comfortable - even with a heavy load - and provided excellent ventilation between her back and the pack. She loved the removable padded hip belt (unlike many daypack hip belts, the Garnet 20 is wellpadded and fully adjustable) and lauded the two small zippered pockets on it (great place to stick an energy bar, sunscreen, chapstick, etc.).

Speaking of pockets, there is certainly no shortage of these. An outside “quick stash” pocket is ideal for stuffing wet rain gear. Numerous internal and external compartments provide a plethora of organizational opportunities with multiple access points. Stretch side pockets hold Nalgene® or other water bottles - the pack is also hydration ready, with an internal pouch ready for your hydration bag.

More info: sierradesigns.com

Kelty Backpacker Sleeping Pad We’ve all gotten so particular about our sleeping pads. In the old days, we sprawled out on the roots of trees and called it good. We were young. And crazy. Sleeping well in the backcountry is a truly fine thing. A good night’s sleep leaves us well rested and energized for a day of adventuring. The Kelty® Backpacker is a self-inflating pad (in my experience, you’ll end up blowing self-inflating pads up, no matter what they say) and weighs one pound, eight ounces, which certainly isn’t heavy compared to similar pads on the market. It’s sarcophagus-shaped and this might pose a problem if you’re a far-flung sleeper, but otherwise expect the Z’s to be plentiful and unrestrained.

It comes with a stuff sack and repair kit, nice touches. At a suggested retail of $74.95 the Backpacker’s price point makes it attractive to the costconscious backpacker. At the end of the day it isn’t fancy. It isn’t ultra-light.

It doesn’t pack ultra-small. But, boy will you sleep well on it. More info: kelty.com

Gear Spotlight:

What are Ultra Light shells good for?

by Chris Gerston

Come summer time, a lot of people look to lighten their winter shell because, well, it’s summer and you shouldn’t even need a shell. But we live in the Pacific north “wet”, so even with the advances in softshells, we carry hardshells, i.e., rain jackets. The question then is, how little can we get away with, and as with most things, what are the trade-offs?

The latest in light shells (men’s jacket’s names are listed, although there are women’s equivalents), such as Outdoor Research’s Helium II (seven ounces), Rab’s Kinetic (eight ounces), Marmot’s Mica (seven ounces), or Camp’s B-dry (five ounces), can be viewed as part of a system.

The variables of that system include duration, ambient temperature, and personal preference, which is often closely related to duration, as in, how long would I choose to suffer if my guesstimate of the day’s conditions is wrong. For instance, years ago, on a climb at Snow Creek Wall in May, I chose a spare layer primarily meant for wind. It snowed. I suffered.

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These days, I’d choose one of the aforementioned shells which are lighter, and can deal with wind, rain, and snow. I highly recommend these shells for daytrips and that emergency “it’s raining, and my day’s adventure is now about getting home” or for around town, work, or travel. They’re also great in conjunction with a softshell, where you’ll love your softshell for 90 percent of the trip, but when a storm comes in you can pull out your seven-ounce shell, rather than lugging around ye old 24-ounce 3-layer hardshell.

The down side of these shells relates to breathability and durability.

Compared to other hardshells, the fabric is so light, their breathability typically comes from mechanical venting (i.e., mesh lined pockets). However, I was pleasantly surprised by the breathability during a two hour bike ride during a driving rain. The durability issue with these light shells can be avoided by not rubbing elbows with rocks.

Chris Gerston owns Backcountry Essentials, an outdoor specialty shop located at 214 W. Holly in Bellingham, WA. Check out more gear reviews by Chris Gerston at AdventuresNW.com Sponsored Review

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5/6/13 9:13 AM

SUMM

ER ...Sweet!

RIDES

ARE BA

CK

Join us for our 2013 season of easy, social bike rides to tasty destinations!

For more details call 360-671-BIKE, or visit www.everybodyBIKE.com.

SUNDAY, JUNE 2: That 70’s Ride 1pm at Bellingham Black Market Boutique.

SUNDAY, JUNE 16: Trees & Ties 1pm at Fanatik Bike Co.

SUNDAY, JUNE 30: Chocolate Detectives 1pm at Kulshan Cycles on Chestnut Street.

SUNDAY, JULY 14: Cows on Bikes

1pm at City Bible Church in Lynden. For a shorter ride, meet at 1:30 at Berthusen Park.

SATURDAY, JULY 20 Family Ride: Birch Bay Bike Parade Check website for meeting location and time.

SUNDAY, JULY 28: History Ride 1pm at Fairhaven Village Green.

WEDNESDAY, JULY 31 Family Ride: Where’s Waldo?

5:15pm at Depot Market Square.

SATURDAY, AUGUST 3 Family Ride: Family Bike Show & Tell 11am at the Barkley Haggen Gazebo.

SUNDAY, AUGUST 11: Roasters and Red Tails

Ride meets at 1pm at Greens Corner (Northwest Drive and Smith Road) .

FRIDAY, AUGUST 16 Family Ride: Rock and Ride

Tentative date—check website for details. facebook.com/ summerrides

stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.

SUNDAY, AUGUST 25: Woods to Woods Social Ride meets at 1pm at Woods Coffee on Railroad Avenue.

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Race I Play I Experience MAY >>> Sunday, 26 May SPEC Ski to Sea Race—Bellingham, WA, 7:45 am – 6:00 pm, Experience the legacy of the 1911 Mt. Baker Marathon and discover the “Ski to Sea” race held in Bellingham, Washington, USA every Memorial Day weekend. More than a race. Ski to Sea -May 26, 2013 – Limit of 500 Teams. A Relay Race of Seven Race Legs – Over 90 Miles. Seven Sports include XC Ski, Downhill Ski/Snowboard, Run, Road Bike, Canoe, Mountain Bike, Sea Kayak.

It’s one big party moving down the Mountain! www.SkitoSea.com

RUN/WALK The Human Race— Squalicum Boathouse10:00 am – 11:30 am. Walk or run for your favorite local cause, 5K/10K Registration/Check-in starts at 8:45, race at 10:00 am.

WATER Learn To Row Day— Bloedel Donovan Park, Bellingham (meet near the train) 9:00 am – 2:00 pm. Have you ever wondered what it is like to row in an 8 person sweep row shell? Come out and find out with Whatcom Rowing Club. Check out the equipment, try a dockside trainer, get coached on a rowing machine, get into a shell for a row and sign up for a rowing class. Rowing is one of the best ways to stay fit, and beautiful Lake Whatcom is a great place to do it. www.whatcomrowing.org

JUNE >>>

RUN/WALK Dog Island Run—10 K Run and 2 mile Walk at Schoolhouse Park on Guemes Island10:45 am – 1:00 pm. Scenic and challenging 10K run and 2 mile walk on Guemes Island. Go online for details and to register using paypal.

Thursday, 6 June SPEC Blazing Paddles Film Festival–– Lincoln Theatre, 7:00 pm – 10:00 pm.

Saturday, 8 June RUN/WALK Girls on the Run 5K––9:00 am – 11:00 am. Unleash confidence through accomplishment while establishing a lifetime appreciation of health and fitness. http://www. whatcomymca.org RUN/WALK 12th Annual Flight for Sight Fun Run & Walk—Everett Boeing Activity Center, 9:30 am – 12:00 pm.

Over age 70 and 13 and younger FREE. Proceeds benefit Guide Dogs of America

Tuesday, 25 June

Saturday, 1 June

BIKE everybodyBIKE: Smart Cycling classes—REI, 6:30 pm – 8:30 pm. Based on the League of American Bicyclists curriculum, a three-part class on bicycling essentials.

SPEC GEAR Expo––Comcast Arena at Everett, 10:00 am – Sunday @ 8:00 pm. Outdoor Adventure Trade Show – Two day consumer event http://www. gearupexpo.com

Saturday July 13

26, May - 13, July

Saturday, 29 June BIKE Cornucopia Days Bike Event––Burlington Park in Kent, 8:00

26 th Annual

2013

Visit AdventuresNW.com for complete listings of Outdoor events through 2013

am – 5:00 pm. We’re back with a great ride! Choose from a 25 mile flat route, 60 mile for intermediate. Century for those more advanced. This route will be a good training ride for STP. Fully supported, great foods at pit stops, live music, Pasta Feed, Awesome Raffle Prizes. Proceeds go to “Our Daily Bread Basket” feeding families in need. Emerald City Lights is a non-profit now in its 9th year. Come join the fun!

MULTI Bellingham Kids Traverse—Civic Stadium, Bellingham 10:00 am. We are excited to be hosting the First Annual Bellingham Kids Traverse.The course celebrates the lifecycle of wild salmon. 6 – 14 year-olds will compete as SOLO (Chinook), TANDEM (Coho), RELAY TEAMS (Chum) Starting in Civic Stadium, The course offers a 1 mi. Run through Salmon Woods; 1.5 mi.

Mountain Bike around Civic and Geri Fields; .5 mi. Obstacle Course inside Civic Stadium; .25 mi Team TREK to Mallard Ice Cream Finish Line. Top 3 finishers in each age group get awards and all finishers get a Kids Traverse ribbon and ice cream. Be the COOL PARENT- Sign your kids up today!

SPEC MountainFilm on Tour–– Winthrop,WA,12:00 pm – 12:00 am.

North Cascades Mountain Hostel brings an inspiring and world-renowned film festival to the Methow Valley. http://www.mountainfilm.org/ tour

JULY >>> Saturday, 13 July

Iron Person & Relay

.3-mile swim 14.8-mile bike 4-mile run

Plus a YOUTH TRI

(flotation devices allowed & parents encouraged to participate with their kids)

360.336.9414 tonyt@co.skagit.wa.us

skagitcounty.net/parksandrecreation 44

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RUN/WALK Chuckanut Foot Race––Marine Park Fairhaven, 9:00 am – 1:00 pm.

This point-to-point, seven-mile trail race starts at Marine Park in south Bellingham and finishes at Larrabee State Park, the oldest state park in Washington.

The course follows the legendary Interurban Trail, which threads through the Chuckanut Mountains and features gorgeous views of Chuckanut Bay and the San Juan Islands.View the course map here. Busses will take runners back to the finish line and will leave with regularity. The finish-line party at Larrabee State Park will include live music, food, and drink.

Age-group awards will be given, three deep in each five-year category. Top three male and

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Ride 25, 38, 50, 62, 100 or 124 beautiful miles where the Cascade Mountains meet the Salish Sea!

13 July (cont.) - 10, August female finishers will also be recognized.

Wednesday, 17 July

Clear Lake Triathlon—Clear Lake Swim Beach, 9:00 am – 12:00 pm.

Course Distances: Iron Person & Teams – The course consists of a 1/3-mile swim, 14.8-mile bike course and a 4-mile run.Youth Triathlon: Includes a 100-yard swim, 1.5-mile bike and ½-mile run course. Flotation devices are allowed. Parents are encouraged to participate with youth to cheer them on along the way.

BIKE RedSpoke––8:30 am – 5:00 pm.

RedSpoke is a fully supported 5-day, 300-mile bicycle ride from Redmond to Spokane

BIKE Padden MTN Pedal—Lake Padden, 10:00 am. Padden MTN Pedal has been a cornerstone of the Pacific Northwest mountain bike racing calendar. It’s the race the keeps on racing-top notch park amenities create a scenic and convenient venue and the legendary course lures riders back year after year.

Padden is known to be one of the best spectator courses- riders doing multiple laps make for great viewing and raucous cheers. So it’s a great place to come cheer on your friends, family and fellow racers.With the lake to swim in, playground structures for kids, large open grass fields its a great place to spend the day. Lake Padden Recreation Area is located barely 2.5 miles from the historic Fairhaven District & 3.5 miles to Downtown so its and easy jaunt in for a visit to the local shops, eateries or ice cream shops. Age and ability classes guarantee there is a course length class so everyone can get it on the fun.Youth cycling is strongly supported and the FREE Kids Race (10 and under) and BIG course is always a huge hit.

BIKE Tour de Whatcom—Bellingham, 7-11:30am starts depending on distance.

A fun charity bike ride (25, 50 or 105 miles, all fairly level) with awesome views.

No matter your distance, you get to see everything: Mt Baker, Lake Whatcom, valleys, rivers, lush farmland, beaches and north Puget Sound. All routes offer well-stocked reststops, bike techs/safety checks (at the start too), and a “family” rate. Starts are coordinated so riders roll in around the same time for the festivities back at the Fairhaven Village Green. FREE pictures too. 360-739-9953, www.tourdewhatcom.com MULTI Olympia Traverse—12:00 pm – 4:00 pm.The Fourth Annual Olympia Traverse is proud to be working with City of Olympia, Department of Natural Resources, and the Port of Olympia. We are looking forward to working with the local business community to provide for new revenue stream for local and regional charities., olympiatraverse.com

AUGUST >>> Saturday, 10 August RUN/WALK Magnuson Series Summer Fitness Day 9:30 pm – 1:00 pm. We have a distance for everyone.

5k, 10k, 15k, and half. Come get some fitness!

2008 Chuckanut Century; photo © CJ Berg Photographics

Sunday, 14 July

Sunday, 27 July

2013

ChuCkanut Century Sunday September 15

Ride on Whatcom & Skagit counties’ finest cycling roads, including the famous Chuckanut Drive.

Enjoy views of Mount Baker & surrounding ranges while cycling along the shores of Padilla Bay, Bellingham Bay, Birch Bay & Drayton Harbor.

Early rEgistration (before 9/01/12) JUst $55!

Mail-in registration at chuckanutcentury.org Fully supported • Hearty food stops • Free t-shirt if registered by 9/1 Start & Finish festivities at Boundary Bay Brewery & Bistro in downtown Bellingham — FREE burger or beverage at finish!

Visit AdventuresNW.com for complete listings of Outdoor events through 2013

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INFORMATION:

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chuckanutcentury.org ADVENTURES NW

event listings at AdventuresNW.com

—a proud supporter

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race I play I experience

16 August - 24 August Saturday, 16 August RUN/WALK Magnuson Series: Barefoot Mile 6:30 pm – 7:30 pm.

Come run a mile… barefoot! We have an all grass race course.

Saturday, 24 August SPEC Muds to Suds Mud Race–– Hovander Park, 8:00 am – 6:00 pm.This “mud race” will feature: -17+ dirty obstacles that combine athletic stamina and your child hood fantasy of playing in the mud. You will need endurance to complete the approximately 3 mile course, humility to wallow in the mud and a smile to show off at the finish line! -Dressing up

is encouraged and prizes will be given for the most creative ideas. Also, bring your camera, the obstacles are all spectator friendly, and your family’s muddy grins might make the perfect Christmas card! www.mudstosuds. com/

Saturday, 24 August RUN/WALK Eugene Women’s Half Marathon––Downtown Eugene, OR, 8:00 am – 11:30 am. The Eugene Women’s Half Marathon is for those

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24 August (cont.) - 21 September who like pampering! Ladies (and Gentlemen if they wish) will be treated to a fabulous Eugene course that starts downtown and finishes at the 5th Street Market. Participants can expect a race experience unlike other typical road races. Unrivaled swag bags, mini spa services, delicious chocolate, bubbly champagne – what more could a girl want?

SEPTEMBER >>> Sunday, 1 September RUN/WALK Steve Braun Memorial Triathlon––Moran State Park, Orcas Island, 8:30 am – 12:00 pm. Annual Steve Braun Memorial Triathlon Sponsored by the FRIENDS OF MORAN Cascade Lake Picnic Area Moran State Park on Orcas Island, 8:30 Pre-race meeting, 9:00 start. The Course: ½ mile swim in beautiful Cascade Lake 15 mile bike, 3.5 mile trail run. Pre-register by August 25 Save $10! Triathletes Fee: $45, Day of Registration $55, TRI-Teams: Fee $35 (per individual on a team), Day of Registration $45 per individual on a team.

Saturday, 14 September RUN/WALK Fairhaven Runners Waterfront 15K––Fairhaven Village Green, 8:30 am – 10:30 am, Whether running or walking along this 9.3 mile course, you get a great opportunity to traverse Bellingham Bay’s beautiful waterfront.Tour the Taylor Street Dock, Boulevard Park, downtown and the marina.The race features chip timing and finishes with a post-race party including food, live music and complimentary massage and chiropractic care. Be sure to stay for awards (5 year age groups to 80+), random prizes and prompt race results! We have a beautiful, well-staffed course starting in Fairhaven and running out through downtown Bellingham and back on waterside paths.

From elite racing to fitness walking this course is awesome. Capped at 1000 participants. Advance registration only. www.fairhavenrunners.com/15k/

Friday, 20 September BIKE the Intrepid––7:00 am – Sunday @ 4:00 pm. 3 days, 300 miles, 20,000 feet Done the GranFondo’s?

The Intrepid is the next challenge in cycling. 3 day stage ride in BC’s Okanagan Valley, Sept. 20 to 22, 2013. Ride from Kelowna to Big White, to Osoyoos, to Penticton Adventurous, Fraternal, Intimate.

Saturday, 21 September RUN/WALK Tour de Whidbey––Greenbank Farm, 7:00 am – 6:00 pm. Hospital fundraising ride with well-supported 10, 30,40,50,100 mile routes on Whildbey Island country road https:// whidbeygen.org/wgh-foundation/tour-de-whidbey/ tour-de-whidbey RUN/WALK Bellingham Traverse––Market Depot/Boundary Bay, 12:00 pm – 6:00 pm. The Bellingham Traverse is a community event that celebrates the life-cycle of wild salmon, demonstrating the natural and urban challenges of their journey. Solo, tandem and relay teams challenge themselves and one another on a rugged course that highlights the City of Bellingham’s parks, Greenways system, bikefriendly roads, and open water opportunities for recreation http://nwtraverse.com/bellinghamtraverse/home SPEC Last Day of Summer Celebration–– Ladies of the Lake Preserve, 10:00 am – 6:00 pm.

Whatcom Land Trust invites your family and pals to

SPEC Frog Frolic––Shadow Lake Nature Preserve, 1:00 pm – 5:00 pm. Enjoy an afternoon of exploring the SHADOW bog, live music, and outdoor events.

Sunday, 15 September BIKE Chuckanut Century 2013––Boundary Bay, 10:00 am – 5:00 pm. The 2013 Chuckanut Century will be held on September 15, 2013. Ride one of the most scenic rides in Washington. With many routes offered you can pick your distance ranging from 25, 38, 50, 62, 100, or the double metric century of 124 miles. Although all cyclists should be fully prepared when they take to the roads you can enjoy the added security of knowing that there is ride support if needed and food stops along all of the routes. The 25 mile loop is perfect for the first timer to an organized event. All routes start and finish at the legendary Boundary Bay Brewery. www.chuckanutcentury.org/top.html RUN/WALK Hammer Nutrition Two Bear Marathon and Half Marathon––The Wave, 7:30 am – 3:00 pm

Visit AdventuresNW.com for complete listings of Outdoor events through 2013 event listings at AdventuresNW.com

race | play | experience

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21 September (cont.) - 16 November our Ladies of the Lake preserve at the south end of Lake Whatcom. Spend the last day of summer enjoying the great outdoors! Choose from a variety of activities: cider pressing, live music, a salmon-oriented bike ride, kids programs, food, interpreted forest walks, a dip in the lake, birding, a game of softball—maybe a little friendly cribbage action? Stay tuned for details!

options on a stunning and natural course. See you on the Island.

OCTOBER >>> Saturday, 19 October

Saturday, 28 September SPEC San Juan Island Quest Adventure Race––Orcas Island, WA, 6:00 am – 6:00 pm. Experience the San Juan Islands like never before in the San Juan Island Quest Adventure Race. Sea kayak, mt. bike, and trek between check points using only map and compass.

Race it solo or with up to three of your friends. 6 hour and 12 hour Visit AdventuresNW.com for complete listings of Outdoor events through 2013

Advertiser Index

7C Creative...................................13 American Alpine Institute................24 Anacortes Arts Festival...................13 Back Porch Wine & Spirits..............10 Backcountry Essentials....................42 Barkley Family Dentistry.................36 Bellingham Athletic Club...................4 Bellingham Automotive.....................3 Bellingham Bay Marathon..............48 Bellingham Frameworks....................3 Bellingham Kite Paddle Surf............37 Bellingham Whatcom County Tourism...........................47 Boundary Bay Brewery..................35 Brandon Nelson - Re/Max Realty......7 Bruce Cox Motors..........................32 Busara Thai Cuisine........................32 Cerise Noah - Windermere Real Estate.................................20 Challenger Ridge Vineyards and Cellars................................. 11 Chuckanut Bay Gallery....................3 Colophon Café..............................13 Commmunity Food Co-Op..............16 Community Boating Center.............38 D’Anna’s Café Italiano...................46 Danne Neill - Muljat Group............25 Dawn Durand - Windermere Real Estate.................................39 Everybody Bike..............................43 Fairhaven Bike & Ski......................33 Fairhaven Pizza.............................23 Fairhaven Runners & Walkers.........25 Flyers Restaurant & Brewery...........33 Gato Verde Adventire Sailing.........30 Gear Expo....................................44 GBRC - Chuckanut Foot Race..........24 High Country Apps........................42 Inner Passage................................16 Iron Street Printing.........................38 JM Electric.....................................25 Josh Feyen - Re/Max Realty...........30 Klicks Running & Walking............... 11

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SPEC WMBC 3rd Annual Shoot the Trails Awards––Depot Market Square, 7:00 pm – 10:00 pm. Mountain Bike Video and Photography Contest, Prizes, Raffle, Beer! For contest rules and event updates: www. whimpsmtb.org

NOVEMBER >>> Saturday, 16 November RUN/WALK Mustache Dache–– Magnuson Park, 10:00 am – 1:00 pm. Mustache-themed 5k run with mechanical bull and beer garden.

Benefits Movember!

Kulshan Brewery..............................4 Kulshan Cycles...............................13 LFS Marine & Outdoor...................19 Lithtex NW....................................33 Mallard Ice Cream...........................8 MBBC - Chuckanut Century.............45 McNett.........................................42 Meridian Tire.................................21 Mount Baker Guides......................12 Muds to Suds..............Inside Front Cover Nathan McAllister - Attorney at Law... 46 Nooksack River Casino.....Back Cover North Cascades Institute.................38 North Cascades Mountain Guides...39 North Cascades Mountain Hostel...36 North Fork Brewery.......................16 Northwest Navigation....................45 NW European Auto.......................30 NW Traverse...................................6 Old Fairhaven Association..............38 Padden Mtn Pedal..........................44 Pizza Pipeline......... Inside Back Cover Quicksilver Photo Lab.....................20 ReStore.........................................16 Sally Farrell - Coldwell Banker........37 San Juan Sailing............................21 Scratch & Peck Feeds.....................12 Seattle City Light / Skagit Tours.......50 Skagit County Parks - Clear Lake Triatholon................44 Skagit Valley Food Co-op...............35 Sportsman Chalet..........................31 Superior Automotive......................39 Sustainable Connections.................47 The Alley District.......................40-41 The Markets....................................3 Tour de Whatcom..........................46 Tour de Whidbey...........................35 Village Books................................17 Wailing Goat Espresso...................33 Whatcom Community College.........21 Whatcom Educational Credit Union... 36 Whatcom Family YMCA.................31 Whidbey Island Bank.......................5 Yoga with Susan D’Onofrio............25 Zaremba Paxton PS.......................17

the

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Adventure

Alone Together photo by ETHAN D’ONOFRIO I once heard that the number of stars we can see is now only a small fraction of what the early explorers used for navigation. Billions of points of light gone forever, lost to light pollution. Even a place as seemingly remote as Twin Lakes yields an ever-present glow across the horizon – spillover of incandescent and fluorescent, mercury vapor and metal halide. The steady glow of ‘progress’.

Nevertheless, with an interesting foreground, the glow can be used to one’s advantage, providing the necessary silhouette to bring in the perspective. That connection to everything, and the feeling of complete and utter insignificance, all at once. Hurling through space, pretending things matter, realizing what doesn’t. Lines disappear. Edges fade. Things shift deep in the soul on nights like this, ever so slightly. When will we give up the game, I wonder? When will we all be on the same planet, in the same black void?

Alone. Together. coimagery.com

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Experience the North Cascades life d l i W

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Natural beauty

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Bo

Hiking

Skagit Tours 2013

Experience the beauty, adventure, learning and fun in the North Cascades.

To learn more about what awaits you in the magical North Cascades, visit www.skagittours.com or call 360-854-2589.

North Cascades National Park Enjoy summer learning and recreation. www.nps.gov/noca or 360-854-7200 North Cascades Institute Connecting people, nature and community through education since 1986. www.ncascades.org or 360-854-2589

Photo credits: Rick Allen, David Astudillo, John Harter, Elizabeth Penhollow, and NEllen Regier

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race | play | experience

Featuring some of the best Pacific Northwest Microbrews!

• Happy Hour 11am-6pm $1 Off Pints • 200 Micro Brews • 50 Beers on Tap • Live Music Every Thursday • Local Artists & Celtic Music

Bottled Beer & Wine To Go Pizza • Subs • Wings & More Hours: Sun-Wed, 11am - 2am Thurs & Sat, 11am - 3am

1118 E. Maple Street on Samish Way

(360) 647-3600 Order online @ www.pizzapipeline.com