ADVENTURES NW >>> SUMMER 2017
REIMAGINING WILDERNESS BC PARKS TRAIL RUNNING SUMMER ADVENTURES BROOKS RANGE TRAVERSE LAKE WHATCOM TRIATHLON
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CONTRIBUTORS Nick Belcaster is an outdoor journalist who resides in Bellingham, WA, where he received a journalism degree from Western Washington University. When not on the road, Nick spends his spare hours exploring the Pacific Northwest on rack, rope, skins, boot tread, with a pen thrown in for good measure. Long ago, Kathy and Craig Copeland rearranged their lives to make hiking the white-hot molten core of their shared identity. They built their livelihood on a unique ability to express the wonder, joy, and exhilaration they feel in wild places. They’re now Canada’s most prolific hiking-andcamping guidebook authors. Visit hikingcamping. com to see their titles and peruse their blog. Together, Rand Jack and Bob Keller have hiked to the crest of the Brooks Range, climbed to the top of Mt. Baker and walked to the floor of the Grand Canyon. They paddled together in Alaska, in the Queen Charlotte Islands and up and down the west coast of Vancouver Island where they conferred with puffins and enjoyed the freshest halibut and salmon known to man. Sarah Laing is a nutritionist, author and creator of the blog, Planetary Cuisine, which explores the connection between cultural food and health and is the topic of her upcoming second book. Canadian-born, she and her husband now live in Bellingham and own S&J Natural Products. Alan Majchrowicz is a mountain wilderness fanatic who has been hiking and photographing in the Pacific Northwest and beyond for over 35 years. His landscape and nature images have been used by The Sierra Club, Apple Computer, National Geographic, Alaska Airlines and many more. He resides with his family in Bellingham. Learn more at alanmajchrowicz.com. Lawrence Millman is the author of 17 books including the recently-published At the End of the World. His articles have appeared in Smithsonian, National Geographic Adventure, the Atlantic Monthly and Sports Illustrated. He has a mountain named after him outside Tasiilaq, East Greenland. He doesn’t own a cell phone and has never sent a text message in his life.
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John Nelson has worked at newspapers in Seattle, Spokane, Memphis and Colorado. His outdoors stories have appeared in The Los Angeles Times, Seattle Times, The Spokesman-Review, SeniorsSkiing.com and Crosscut. com. He lives in Seattle and enjoys all things outdoors: skiing, cycling, hiking and kayaking. Read his blog at SkiZer.org. Robert Michael Pyle walks, writes, and studies natural history in Gray’s River, Washington. His twenty books include Wintergreen, winner of the John Burroughs Medal, Sky Time in Gray’s River, winner of the National Outdoor Book Award and The Butterflies of Cascadia. His latest titles are Chinook and Chanterelle: Poems (Lost Horse Press) and Through a Green Lens: Fifty Years of Writing for Nature (Oregon State University Press). As chairman of the Bellingham Greenways Advisory Committee, Ted Rosen aims to make Bellingham a greener and more desirable place to live. He’s passionate about non-motorized connectors and public forests. He can often be found on urban trails, complaining about dog poop and discarded cigarette butts. Originally from Australia, Graham Schodda has been working in the arts for over 25 years. He currently divides his time between a series of stainless steel fish etchings, found object assemblage sculptures and driftwood carvings. His work can be seen in galleries and art exhibitions all over the Pacific Northwest. Visit him at stainlesssteelheads.com.
COVER PHOTO by John D’Onofrio
A Look Ahead:
Photo by Shari Galiardi
Our Autumn Issue RAMBOD: Bushwhacking Baker with a Bike Olympic Mountain Traverse Kayaking Quadra Island Woodstock Farm Tomihoi Peak
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INSPIRATIONS
IN THIS ISSUE
Reimagining Wilderness Ted Rosen
10
Wilderness Ethics
John D’Onofrio
20
Nick Belcaster
24
Mountain Stewards Angels of the Backcountry
Solitude and Wildflowers Alan Majchrowicz
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Reflections on Wilderness A Sojourn in the Brooks Range Bob Keller and Rand Jack 28 Ornithology in the Yukon Lawrence Millman
32
Discover BC’s National Parks This Summer For FREE! John Nelson 34 Trail Running
A Celebration of Body and Soul
DESTINATIONS Wilderness in the 21st Century Out & About Communiqué Local Wildlife 3 Great Hikes ... for Summer Outside In eARTh: The Art of Nature Bright Lines Vital Signs Cascadia Gear Race | Play | Experience Calendar Next Adventure
6 8 8 8 9 18 22 39 45 46 47 50
Carl Bremen
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It is not enough to fight for the land; it is even more important to enjoy it. While you can. While it is still there. So get out there and mess around with your friends, ramble out yonder and explore the forests, encounter the grizz, climb the mountains. Run the rivers, breathe deep of that yet sweet and lucid air, sit quietly for a while and contemplate the precious stillness, that lovely, mysterious and awesome space - Edward Abbey
HOURS Weekdays 8-6 Saturday 8-5 851 Coho Way Sunday Bellingham, WA 9-4 360.734.3336 Photo by Alan Majchrowicz
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WILDERNESS IN THE 21ST CENTURY
I
heard an amazing story the other day.
I was talking with Gary Paull, the Wilderness & Trails Program Coordinator for the Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest about the increase in foot traffic in the wilderness areas within the Forest. He told me that while visitation was up everywhere in the wilderness, the trail to Blanca Lake, near Skykomish had seen a staggering increase, from somewhere in the vicinity of 2,500 visitors a year just five years ago to as many as 20,000 hikers a year! He wondered what was behind this astonishing increase, so he asked hikers on the trail why they had chosen this particular destination. After all, there are many beautiful lakes reached via any number of trails in the area. And the Blanca Lake Trail is not a casual stroll—elevation gain over its nearly four-mile length is in the vicinity of 3,300 feet. The answer: Instagram. The lake, with its brilliant glacial coloration really ‘pops’ in photographs. And these images, captured by hiker’s cell phones were being seen on the ubiquitous app, shared and re-shared. Blanca Lake had gone viral. It’s a new era for wilderness. As our urban areas continue to spread their outstretched arms of subdivisions and strip malls, it becomes ever more clear that our wilderness areas are a finite resource indeed. And yet the demand for them, fueled by a deeply-seated need to escape the maelstrom (and it turns out, Instagram) continues to rise. Wilderness, as defined by the people at Merriam-Webster (remember them?) is: a) a tract or region uncultivated and uninhabited by human beings b) an area essentially undisturbed by human activity together with its naturally developed life community and c) an empty or pathless area or region. Will we soon need a new definition? Blanca Lake’s 20,000 visitors would by-and-large visit the area during a few months; July, August, September, perhaps the beginning of October. Do the math. Uninhabited by human beings? Not so much. Our history with this kind of high demand/finite supply dichotomy has not been good. The very quality that makes it what it is, that defines it for crying out loud, is an absence of people. And we all want to go. A conundrum. And here’s the kicker: Once lost, it cannot be reclaimed. So what to do? Leave No Trace, for starters. If the term is unfamiliar to 6
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SUMMER | 2017
you, google it (or read about it in this issue). We all have a profound obligation now to be scrupulously careful in not impacting the land when we pass through. Wilderness ethics must be taught and shared person-to-person. The people that work in our National Parks, National Forests and other Land Management Agencies are by-andlarge a remarkable lot, folks dedicated to a cause. And that’s a good thing, as their seemingly Sisyphean task has gotten steadily bigger and harder at the same time that resources have become scarcer and increasingly uncertain. Introducing restrictions has been an effective—and absolutely necessary—tool for them. There’s simply too damn many of us. Preservation is infinitely more important than recreation and without it, we will be recreating in theme parks and wearing funny hats. The very good news is that folks are taking up the call and volunteer groups like the Mountain Stewards are joined by the Washington Trail Association, the Pacific Northwest Trail Association, the Backcountry Horsemen and many others in stepping up to fill in the gaps caused by woefully insufficient funding from a government that has other priorities. We must, all of us, do our part. When you get right down to it, it’s up to us.
Adventures NW magazine www.AdventuresNW.com John D’Onofrio
Marian Jensen
Publisher/Editor john @ adventuresnw.com
Accounting accounting @ adventuresnw.com
Jason Rinne
Ethan D’Onofrio
Creative Director jason @ adventuresnw.com
Digital Media ethan @ adventuresnw.com
Nick Belcaster
Alan Sanders
Staff Writer nick @ adventuresnw.com
Photo Illustrations
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Out About &
C ommuniqué
HOMELAND SECURITY
Thank you for your editorial on stewardship and solace. I love the sentence, “What is homeland security if not the defense of our planet?” How can we be secure if our planet, our food supply and our peace is under threat? We, in the northwest, are more attuned to what we have to lose because we haven’t lost most of it, yet. We are also more attuned because we value getting out in nature, something your magazine does a beautiful job promoting. On another note, I want to thank you for the coverage of the San Juan Islands in your latest issue. I am the Communications and Stewardship manager for the San Juan Islands Visitors Bureau. My job is to balance, as much as possible, a promotional message with a stewardship message in the San Juans...in this way I believe we are connected. Keep up the message, encouraging individuals to do their part in protection, restoration and stewardship. -Barbara Marrett, Communications & Stewardship Manager, San Juan Islands Visitors Bureau
SILVER LINING I read your Spring issue with much interest and wanted to give you feedback on your “Stewardship and Solace” comments. I think that you are right on about this past election being a wake-up call and that “perhaps we will discover a silver lining to these dark clouds.” Your reminder of how James Watt, as Secretary of the Interior under President Ronald Reagan, galvanized the environmental movement in the 1980’s, was a good one! Keep up your good work in the “beauty and inspiration business.” -D. Brady Green, Blaine, WA Share your thoughts! Write to editor@AdventuresNW.com
Local Wildlife: Our Favorite Fauna
An Apple a Day by Shari Galiardi I was taking some photos of the dam at Diablo Lake when a colleague from Seattle City Light waved me over and pointed out this young bear in an apple tree snacking on early summer fruit. He was remarkably tolerant of the many visitors who stopped to capture his image; he may even have liked the attention until he was startled off by two loud motorcycles crossing the dam. Within seconds he climbed down the tree, zipped across the road and disappeared into the forest. Send us your Wildlife! Send photos and stories of your wildlife encounters to editor@AdventuresNW.com 8
The heartbeat of Cascadia
Lake Whatcom Triathlon to Debut The story of the Lake Whatcom Triathlon begins with a cookie. A breakfast cookie, to be exact. The Lake Whatcom Triathlon is a resurrection of the well-known Erin Baker’s Breakfast Cookies ITU International Triathlon, last held in 2005. This race drew Olympic-medalists—and Olympic hopefuls—to Bellingham. In the dozen years since then, the spirit of the race was kept alive by such locally-oriented events as the Homemade Cookie Tri and, most recently, the Homemade Pie Tri. Laid-back and low-key, these events reflected the essence of Bellingham. The Lake Whatcom Tri will debut on July 15 and include a 1500-meter swim on Lake Whatcom, 40-km bike ride along North Shore Drive and Y Road, and a 10-km run around the trails of Whatcom Falls Park, with the transition area and start/finish lines at Bloedel Donovan Park. The event, which will draw beginner to elite athletes in both individual and relay divisions, will be chip-timed and well-supported with sponsors and volunteers, but with a friendlier atmosphere than some of the bigger sanctioned races in the state. One of the goals of the organizers, according to Race Director Marc Blake is to create an event that celebrates the beauty of our region. Starting at Bloedel-Donovan Park in Bellingham, the course will highlight some of our local treasures such as Lake Whatcom and Whatcom Falls Park. And as the only Olympicdistance triathlon in the area, the event will be ideal for racers hoping to step up their tri experience. For more information or to register, visit lakewhatcomtriathlon.com.
The Lake Whatcom Triathlon will include a 1500-meter swim. Photo courtesy of Lake Whatcom Triathlon
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The Broken Group Islands: An Invitation to Paradise Some kayaking destinations offer grand scenery, some provide extraordinary opportunities for wildlife viewing, some provide sheltered waters perfectly suited to relaxed paddling and some boast incredible beaches and memorable campsites. In Barkley Sound, located on the west side of Vancouver Island, the Broken Group Islands deliver all of this—and more—in an archipelago of more than 100 inviting islands.
3Great Hikes for Summer Image Lake
Here’s a classic North Cascades trek, a chance to spend some extended quality time among wonders and untrammeled beauty. Image Lake can be reached from either the east or west. Neither is a casual trip. From the east, catch The Lady of the Lake from Chelan to Lucerne and then ride the camp bus to Holden, where the hiking starts. Pass Hart Part of Pacific Rim National Park, the Broken Group is a Lake (campsites) and aim for world-class kayaking destination that attracts paddlers Cloudy Pass. The side trail from around the globe. And this year, as Parks Canada that heads up to the Lyman Lakes is spectacular, a stellar celebrates its 150th Anniversary by offering free detour. Over Cloudy, then admission to National Parks, the lure of these islands Suiattle Pass, finally to has never been stronger. Miners Ridge and the gloriThere are numerous ways to access the Broken Group. ous alpine paradise that Kayaks can be launched at Secret Beach, located on surrounds Image Lake. Image Lake the Toquaht Nation, where a campground, opened in From the west, the pilgrimPhoto by John D’Onofrio 2013, offers 67 campsites, overnight parking and a kayak age follows the vociferous Suiattle River, a rite of passage that offers the penitent a chance to launch. Reached via the Toquaht Bay Road, Secret Beach is appreciate the immensity of the wilderness. After 11 miles, the trail about an hour’s drive from the town of Ucluelet. to Image Lake makes an abrupt turn and climbs towards the sky, Kayak drops by gaining more than 3,000 feet in less than five miles. boat can also be Image Lake and the sweeping meadows of Miners Ridge are real arranged from Sound of Music country—flower-filled meadows surrounded by Ucluelet, Bamfield a 360-degree panorama of wild mountains, crowned by majestic Glacier Peak. Absolutely sublime. or Port Alberni.
From Port Alberni, Lady Rose Marine Services transports paddlers and kayaks to the Sechart Whaling Station Lodge, an ideal Kayakers explore the Broken Group Islands. Photo courtesy of Parks Canada launching site located on Sechart Channel at the gateway to the Broken Group. Numerous companies offer guided kayak tours in the Broken Group. Those based in Ucluelet are the closest and include Hello Nature Adventure Tours, Majestic Sea Kayaking and Paddle West Kayaking. Trips range from half-day tours to ten-day paddling adventures. These trips offer opportunities to explore these breathtaking islands in style with guides that possess an intimate knowledge of the labyrinthine channels in the archipelago and a passion for the natural wonders and majestic wildlife that make the Broken Group such a special place to dip a paddle.
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Trailheads: West - Holden Lutheran Camp, East: End of the Suiattle River RD (FR-26).
Lake Ann Cursed by her easy accessibility, Lake Ann has become a bit of a zoo on summer weekends. No wonder: the hike is easy (four miles each way with an in/out elevation gain of 1900 feet) and the views are remarkable. Best avoided on weekends, one can still find midweek satori beside its alluring shores. Glacier gazing is very good here, even if it’s a shared experience. The hike is unusual in the North Cascades in that it goes down (ITAL) from the trailhead, losing 800 feet to drop into the spectacular valley of Swift Creek before gaining all that elevation back on the ascent to the saddle above the lake. Once there however, the Curtis Glacier sparkles like Liberace’s pajamas. Trailhead: Mt Baker Highway (SR-542) at Austin Pass.
Windy Pass Once the Hart’s Pass Road is open, you have your choice of excursions into the high country around Slate Peak. Hart’s Pass is a hub for numerous trails into the wide-open dry(er) side of the North Cascades and the walk to Windy Pass is a traverse across a southfacing slope that melts out relatively early. The path contours through alpine meadows with big views of the surrounding mountains. Elevation gain to Windy Pass is only 1300 feet and total there-and-back distance a mere seven miles. Trailhead: Slate Peak Rd. above Hart’s Pass
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Reimagining
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The heartbeat of Cascadia
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the Wilderness Story by Ted Rosen
Photo by Alan Majchrowicz
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I
lightly and leave no trace of your arrival. At the campsite, you find some discarded trash. You sigh at the laziness and destruction and pack out as much of the trash as you can. Most of us are good hikers. We want our wilderness areas to stay as wild and pristine as possible. We can’t imagine harming these wild places. We want next year’s visit to be as invigorating and awe-inspiring as last year’s. Yet every year, we see signs of deterioration. And it doesn’t seem to be getting any better. As you head up the switchbacks, you Our wilderness areas, forests, and notice deep ruts where some hikers have parks get ever more visitors as the popuopted to shorten the climb. But you aren’t lation of the Pacific Northwest steadily tempted to do the same. You sigh at the grows. People come here for the snowlaziness and destruction and move on. capped mountains and the lush evergreen You dutifully follow the trail, turn at each forests, not the suburban subdivisions. switchback, and avoid trampling the flora You can find a three-bedroom rambler that surrounds you. As you emerge above anywhere in America, but finding one the tree line, you stop for a drink of water Braided Trail on Skyline Divide. Photo by Brett Baunton within an easy drive of the most majestic and notice a faded square of dead underlandscapes in the world hastens explosive growth. Someone decided that this overgrowth in the Fourth Corner. view spot would be a great place to camp for the night. You sigh And so come the hikers. The vast majority of us conduct at the laziness and destruction and continue marching uphill. ourselves well and respect the wild places. But as any city planYou know that if you press on for a few more miles there ner will tell you, higher populations bring more of the good and are designated tent sites the rangers have set aside to be sacrificed more of the bad. And that means that our wilderness areas will for camping. They may not have the very best views and may be face more challenges with increased traffic and lazy behavior. It’s inconvenient sometimes, but you want to do your best to tread apparent in the trodden shortcuts, the widened footpaths, the trash, and the vandalism. The administration of our wild places is as varied and mutable as the places themselves. The biggest parks get the most attention and the most resources for obvious reasons: they have enormous numbers of visitors and it takes herculean efforts to keep these places relatively pristine despite the onslaught of visitors from all over the world. This is as it should be. It was Teddy Roosevelt who forged our National Parks. But in 1964, it was Congress (who voted unanimously - how often does that happen?) that created the Wilderness Act. This legislation enshrined into law the protection of vast swaths of wild places. These are places deemed too important to be turned over
t’s happened to all of us. You head up to Heliotrope Ridge or Lake Ann for a refreshing hike. At the trailhead, you hang your Northwest Forest Pass from your rearview mirror to show you paid for parking. Like a good citizen, you sign in at the trailhead, just in case. You write down how many are in your party and hope no one will ever need this information. Then up you go.
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to forestry or left to the vagaries of private owners. The Act was meant to maintain these wild places in their “natural condition” in perpetuity. That means no commercial development, construction, or extraction. It also means no permanent roads—although there are exceptions, such as the road to Lone Jack Mine near Twin Lakes in the Mt. Baker Wilderness. That said, the Wilderness Act does allow free movement throughout lands designated as wilderness. Researchers have rather free reign to sample and study in wilderness areas, and citizens have rather free reign to recreate there, as long as these activities do not harm the “natural condition” of the place. The Wilderness Act gave us over 100 million acres of pristine land to enjoy, from the Aleutian Islands Wilderness to the Florida Keys Wilderness and hundreds of other magical places in between, and Americans are ever more likely to visit them. Yet unlike our national parks, wilderness areas are not administrated by one dedicated overseeing agency. Instead, wilderness areas are resourced as a small part of the budget of four discrete governmental agencies: the Fish and Wildlife Service, the Bureau of Land Management, the Forest Service, and the National Park Service. As you can imagine, sometimes the interests of these agencies overlap and sometimes they don’t. As a result, wilderness areas do not necessarily receive the same level of attention as our hallowed National Parks. Our local parks (North Cascades, Mt. Rainier and Olympic)
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consist of more than 95% wilderness, while Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest has about 48% of its area designated as wilderness. Thus, a much larger portion of the overall budgets of the National Forests is directed to non-wilderness areas. This is not to denigrate the work of those who administer our wilderness areas. Hundreds of people dedicate their lives and their labor to keeping our wilderness areas as close to their natural state as possible. It was Edward Abbey who
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wrote, “The idea of Wilderness needs no defense; it only needs defenders” and the folks who do the hard work of maintaining these massive tracts of land are its primary defenders: the boots on the ground. Among those defenders are Barbara Richey of the Mount Baker Ranger District and Gary Paull, Trails and Wilderness Specialist for the Mount Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest. I asked them for their opinions about the challenges facing our underserved wilder-
ness areas and they were glad to give some input. Richey gave me some invaluable sources to study and Paull was happy to share his thoughts as well. I asked Paull about the problems and solutions. “Recreation impacts including trail widening and soil erosion, large denuded campsites, campfire scars, multiple trails, user-developed trails, and sanitation issues have been noted in the Mt. Baker area and across the Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National Forest for several decades. In many cases these impacts have been mitigated through agency actions such as limiting group party size, establishing designated campsites, limiting the use of campfires, and restrictions on stock use. Some trail impacts have been minimized by hardening, or relocating trails onto more sustainable long-term locations such as the Yellow Aster Butte Trail. Trends in newer equipment such as lighter weight gear, along with agency actions have helped reduce the impact of current visitors over their predecessors. “That said, there are far more people on the trails than there were even a decade ago and we are seeing sanitation issues as one of the biggest future challenges. Demand for campsites in some areas is causing new sites to be developed, sometimes in inappropriate locations. Reduced road and trail access across the Forest is forcing more people into a smaller land base. The frequency of relocating backcountry toilets is increasing. Visitor use is expanding into the shoulder seasons as well as winter. Dwindling budgets are
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problems. To start, charging fees requires an infrastructure to putting stress on a decreasing staff of agency employees. Their collect and process payments. Such infrastructure would cut into ability to patrol the backcountry for compliance with regulations the new revenue stream and place even more responsibility on the and leave-no-trace practices is greatly affected.” already-stressed staffers. If our wilderness areas were as well financed as our military, There’s a more fundamental problem with user fees: the we could all relax. But with four strapped agencies portioning Wilderness Act was created to encourage people to freely recreate out fractions of their budgets to protect our wild places, the need on their public lands. Charging fees for a comprehensive solution becomes might discourage some visitors and ever more paramount. Wilderness isn’t drive certain others to decry any fees dispensable. It’s critical. as elitist. Small fees wouldn’t scare off There are ways to resolve the ismost visitors, but now may not be the sues facing our wild places. The most time to frame outdoor recreation as obvious one is to adequately fund the something suited only to people who agencies that maintain these lands. wear Arc’teryx fleece and drive brand At the risk of veering into cynicism, it Choose campsites on durable surfaces – not in wild flowers. Photo by Brett Baunton new Audi wagons. The Wilderness seems unlikely that the current adminshould be for all, not for some. User istration or Congress have any plans to fees may be necessary at some point, but they shouldn’t be the ensure that the four departments involved will avoid huge budget first avenue we take. cuts, much less enjoy enhanced revenue. This puts the squeeze on Some wilderness experts have recommended a less onerous the defenders while they face ever more challenges and visitors. solution: partnerships between private organizations, non-profits, Without adequate funding on the national level, there have and volunteers to assist the staffers and rangers in the hard work been calls to create various forms of user fees to apply to visiof fixing trails and managing the land. This idea has a lot of merit. tors. Right now, the only fees you’ll pay to visit a wilderness area A group of people united for a cause can be a force to be reckoned are parking fees. If there was a mechanism to charge for entry, with. Caring volunteers do tremendous work at the local level, overnight camping, or other forms of access, we could plug a few relieving municipal budgets from some project costs and pitchholes in the budget. But this approach has some fundamental
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ing in when the local government can’t be bothered. Backed by businesses that care and non-profits dedicated to the cause, an army of volunteers can do an awful lot of good. Not only can they relieve budget problems, but they can make the mission a more public one, raising awareness among voters, visitors, and the politicians who pay attention to the winds of public sentiment. Besides the rather coarse discussion of budgets, there is another aspect of wilderness preservation that bears discussion: education and encouragement. The stomped meadows and litter aren’t created by magical beings; it’s our neighbors out there doing dumb, lazy things in the wild. The problem of damage to wilderness areas can be mitigated if fewer people did fewer dumb things. To that end, it behooves us to talk to our neighbors about our trips to the wild and how we practiced good stewardship while there. It suggests that we approach visitors doing dumb stuff by being forthright and friendly, and Continued on page 18
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OUTSIDE IN Reflections on Wilderness by Kathy and Craig Copeland
The tall, slender towers on a mosque are called minarets. Their needlepoint shape is intended to pierce the sky, allowing the prayers of faithful Muslims to rise heavenward to Allah. Mountain devotees might attribute a similar spiritual purpose to the peaks they worshipfully climb.
Photo by John D’Onofrio
Ascension
Extracted from Heading Outdoors Eventually Leads Within by Kathy and Craig Copeland (hikingcamping.com)
encouraging them to make a few small changes to their behavior. No one likes a scold and most folks like kind words. We were all young once, and we all remember someone who reminded us to treat wild places with sympathy and dignity when we had strayed from the path of “leave no trace”. It can be done with kindness, and it can make a lasting difference. Gary Paull echoes these solutions and has this to say: “Citizens and the government have to work together... on these issues. There are many great examples with our non-profit partners and outfitter/guides all stepping up with tremendous help both in active maintenance of our trails, advocating for funding, and promoting leave-no-trace behaviors. There are individuals and organizations that are dogged in their desire
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to improve the trail system around the mountain. The Skagit-Whatcom-Island Trail Maintaining Organization and the Pacific Northwest Trail Association are working to improve the Swift Creek Trail. The Backcountry Horsemen are leading the effort to replace the long lost bridge on the Elbow Lake Trail over the Middle Fork Nooksack. The Mt. Baker Ranger District’s Mountain Stewards program—funded by state grants—is an example of the Forest Service securing funds which then go towards coordination of a small legion of citizen stewards who hike the trails seeking opportunities to engage and educate their fellow backcountry enthusiasts. Advocating for appropriate practices in outdoor recreation product advertising, articles on appropriate behavior in magazines, such
as Adventures NW, are all pieces to this puzzle. “While the Forest Service can work cooperatively on many of these goals with our partners, ultimately, it will be up to the public to determine how they want to see this landscape managed. Limiting permit systems, fee systems, site reservations, trail hardening/relocation, will only be possible with strong public support.” Like most big multi-faceted projects, the need to maintain our wild places won’t be met with one bumper sticker solution. It will surely require solutions from every possible angle. A renewed interest at the federal level, a concerted effort by organizations and volunteers, and maybe even some user fees would help ensure that these “communities of untrammeled life” remain a fixture of our shared experience. And it would probably help if we each decided to find one “trace leaver” and convince them to change their ways. Outdoor recreation in our wilderness areas will only expand. Every generation seems to produce ever more folks interested in seeing the majesty and glory of our mountains, meadows, and rivers. This is a growing market for a finite resource and we all know what happens when that process goes unchecked. We may sigh and groan when we see our most beloved places damaged by the herd of humanity, but we are not without agency. We can vote, we can volunteer, we can educate. So don’t just shrug and move on. Nature rights itself. We can, too.
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Wilderness Ethics Story by John D’Onofrio
Photo by Alan Majchrowicz
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I
’ve been backpacking a long time. Way back in the swirling mists of time, when I was starting out, I learned wilderness ethics from those who came before me. I don’t even think about these things any more— they’re second nature to me. But whilst wandering hither and yon in Cascadia lately I have observed first-hand that some folks apparently have not been educated on the subject. Our great outdoors are busier than ever. If you doubt this just head to Skyline Divide or Lake Ann on a sunny summer weekend. Thus it is more important than ever to avoid compromising our precious wilderness. With this in mind, I thought I might help with the education process. I’m public-spirited like that. So here are some helpful hints specifically tailored to newbie backpackers and day-hikers venturing out for the first time into our magnificent Cascadian outback.
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Don’t Feed the Marmots! Photo by John D’Onofrio
1. Stay on the Trail Trails are fragile bits of engineering that have to withstand the furies of powerful natural forces such as cascading water, the crushing weight of winter snow and the lure of gravity. ‘Shortcuts’ cause erosion and eventually trails wash out. Funding for trail maintenance is pretty much non-existent (and I’m guessing that with our present political situation, this is not going to get better any time soon). If you use the trails, it is in your own best interest not to compromise or damage them by cutting switchbacks. Your fellow hikers will thank you (and perhaps buy you beer).
2. Pack it Out The Leave No Trace concept has evolved over time from the old adage, ‘Leave nothing but footprints, take nothing but photographs’ to the current thinking which precludes even the leaving of footprints (stay on the trail unless you walk on rock or snow). And definitely leave no garbage - no uneaten ramen, stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.
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no cigarette butts, nothing at all.
3. Camp on Established Campsites, Dirt, Rock or Snow Never pitch a tent on the delicate
plant communities that comprise our fragile alpine meadows. These plants have a tiny window of a growing season. When trampled or crushed, it takes years—decades perhaps—for
A n a c o r t e s A r t s Fe s t i v a l . c o m
The art of nature
eARTh Graham Schodda
Celebrating the Elements Recently I began working on a series of sculptures using predominantly reclaimed timber or driftwood, exploring its relationship with the natural elements of sun, wind, tide, and wave action, as well as the impact of man. They are carved to portray the tide action on beach sand, honeycombed sandstone cliffs, or the wind-blown ripples of a sand dune. Where possible, I try to leave part of the piece with its original, weather-worn patina still intact. There are many influences informing my artwork but the stunning geography and marine ecosystems of the Pacific Northwest are my prime inspirations. Explore www.stainlesssteelheads.com for more info. Clockwise from top right: Tusk (detail), Pillar, Ancient Bone, Honeycomb (detail), Driftwood Totem
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them to recover. Camping in a patch of wildflowers? In an earlier time, you’d be burned at the stake!
4. Deal with Your Waste Nothing compromises an otherwise delightful backcountry campsite in the mountains like the presence of toilet paper fluttering from beneath a rock. There are a lot of people using the wilderness and it is simply unacceptable to (pardon the expression) do a half-assed job of burying your shit. You need to dig an actual hole 10 inches deep. This takes time and effort. You’ll need a trowel or some other kind of digging tool. In soil-deprived alpine areas, you need to carry your waste out in a blue bag (available at ranger stations). If you can’t do these things, you need to stay home where the toileting is simpler.
5. Don’t Feed the Animals This seems obvious but one sees it all the time. The North Cascades are not a petting zoo. Sure, the marmots are adorable (until one bites you) and they sure do want you to feed them (as a result, of course, of the party before you giving them food) but their survival depends on their natural food sources, which do not include granola bars or Peanut M&Ms.
6. Dogs, Dogs and More Dogs A lot of folks are bringing Fido to the wilderness these days. The general rule is that dogs should be leashed unless they respond well to voice commands. My observation is that the dog that responds to voice command when it catches a whiff of a marmot or ground squirrel is a rare dog indeed. Consider leaving the pooch home. This is the domain of animals who are fighting for survival. If you do bring your canine pal, please consider deploying the leash and—it should go without saying—clean up after them. ANW
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Mountain Stewards Angels of the Backcountry Story by Nick Belcaster
O
n a bright summer day in the North Cascades, a father is hiking along with his two sons, their mother trailing far behind sporting flip-flops. The uneven terrain makes her feet look painful, and a passing man offers that flip-flops probably aren’t the best footwear for the trail.
“Oh I know, my hus- Mountain Steward Bob Schneider with goat scope and young viewer. band—that idiot— said we Turnbaugh and Roberts are Mountain were going to the beach!” Stewards, a special breed of Forest Service John Turnbaugh and Scott Roberts volunteers that walk the trails around see stuff like this more than you’d expect. Mount Baker, acting as the eyes and eduFrom flip-flops on scree to gung-ho day cators on the trails. These volunteers help hikers with no gear asking how far it is hikers stay safe, but also strive to educate to the top of Mount Baker. You’d be surabout land stewardship and answer quesprised, they say. tions about local flora and fauna. “Makes us shake our heads, but The Mountain Stewards program that’s why we’re there,” Roberts says.
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was created in response to issues that the Forest Service was struggling with around Mt. Baker, such as landscape damage and improper use of the trail systems. Modeled after a program on the Skagit River that educated the public on wintering eagle populations, the Mountain Stewards project was launched in 2002 as a cooperative effort with the North Cascades Institute to enlist volunteers to act as guardians for the land. In a wilderness so vast, Forest Service Project Director Barbara Richey says that they couldn’t manage it all without the help. Volunteers are educated on backcountry regulations and best practices, radio use and trail etiquette as well as a variety of special topics that might be of interest to passing hikers. Naming mountain peaks is a popular one, as is
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wildflower identification. But stewardship is really the big issue, and the volunteers work with hikers on ‘Leave No Trace’ principles, helping individuals realize that they may only be a group of three or four, but they are among thousands that use the same trails every season. “We’re such an urban forest, with people coming from cities expecting city trails and they get up there and they’re expecting bridges and directions everywhere,” Richey says. “They aren’t always prepared for a wilderness experience, and that’s partly why we started this program.” Turnbaugh and Roberts both began volunteering for the program in 2011. Turnbaugh had heard about the program from a friend, and Roberts had been a longtime outdoors person, involved in everything from backcountry skiing to hiking to mountaineering, and Mountain Steward John Turnbaugh. Photo courtesy of USFS saw the opportunity as a way to give back to the lands that he had utilized for many years. “It’s really a two-way street. We’re volunteering and giving our time, but they [the Forest Service] are giving stuff back to us,” Roberts said. “We get to enhance our knowledge of the outdoors, and spread that to people who might not know.” Turnbaugh and Roberts often help hikers understand the impacts of their actions, from treading on alpine meadows to starting fires where none are allowed. Mountain Stewards walk the trails from mid-July to mid-September, and you can find them in the Heliotrope Ridge, Skyline Divide, Heather Meadows/Artist Point or Park Butte/Railroad Grade Areas. If you’re interested in volunteering with the Forest Service for their Mountain Steward Program, contact Barbara Richey at brichey@fs.fed.us ANW
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Alan Majchrowicz Solitude and Wildflowers Recently I made a five-day backpacking trip to one of my all-time favorite areas in the North Cascades—Image Lake, located high on Miner’s Ridge in the Glacier Peak Wilderness. For me, this is one of the classic views of mountains and lakes in the Northwest, rivaled only by a few other spots such as Picture Lake/Mount Shuksan and Tipso Lake/Mount Rainier. After a long hike in I was thrilled to have the entire area to myself, and spent the next few days exploring the ridge and photographing the magical scene and just sitting, taking it all in. Over the years, I have been fortunate to enjoy many memorable days in these beautiful places that are my home, alone with the mountains, glaciers and wildflowers. ANW Clockwise from right: Eldorado Peak and Heather, Image Lake and Glacier Peak, Mt. Baker and Wildflowers, Methow Valley Wildflowers, Ruth Mountain, Mt. Baker
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Reflections on Wilderness NORTH
A Sojourn in the Brooks Range Story and photos by Bob Keller and Rand Jack
I
t all started simply enough. Rand’s son Darby was graduating from Williams College in 1997, and his dad asked him what he wanted as a graduation present. The answer too was simple: “A trip.” Next question: where? In his Introduction to the second edition of Alaska Wilderness: Exploring the Central Brooks Range, George Marshall provided the answer. “The greatest remaining wilderness in North America, and perhaps the world, is the Brooks Range.” The last and most daunting question was how does one safely explore—without the benefit of trails or guide—the greatest remaining wilderness in North America? To avoid getting lost, we decided to follow river drainages. Whether hiking up the south slope of the Brooks Range or paddling down its North Slope, river systems would be our guide. Darby and Rand asked long-time friends Bob Keller and Pat Karlberg to join the adventure. They in turn invited Norm Winn and Rick Munsen. Now we were six. To rendezvous Unloading Gear with our bush pilot, we flew into the tiny hamlet of Bettles, Alaska—35 miles north of the Artic Circle, population 12 (2010 Census). We found the pilot tying rigid canoes to the pontoons of his Beaver aircraft. He commented that these were not for us, and then added, “It’s now illegal to tie anything to your pontoons. Unsafe!” A reminder, if we needed one, that we were now in Alaska. As we loaded our gear into the Beaver, two things were notable. First, we packed no gun. We were going into a vast 28
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wilderness, a wilderness not because someone had designated it a wilderness, but a wilderness by its very nature. We wanted to experience the wilderness on its own terms. Second, we brought 12 cylindrical food canisters designed to deny even barren ground grizzly bears purchase by tooth or claw. Even in a wilderness—perhaps especially in a wilderness—all creatures protect their food. Dropped at a tiny lake beside the upper Noatak River, we were now on our own. Our only contact with the outside world would be a critical meeting with a resupply Beaver bringing food and inflatable canoes to a pond near the upper Nigu River. For the next eight days we would follow the Alatna River north toward Imaturok Pass and the North Slope. Each day held its own surprises, beauty, discoveries, and challenges.
A Day Sampler Day 3: Sunshine broken by short downpours. We headed up an unnamed creek that we hoped would lead us to the Alatna River, our route to the crest of the Brooks Range. A silver wolf, etched by the sun on a verdant backdrop, traversed the hillside next to us. As we approached our first campsite on the Alatna, an enormous, shaggy grizzly crossed slowly, ever so slowly, in front of us. Grey jays and a golden eagle flew overhead. Barren ground grizzlies depend largely on caribou, but also consume vegetation, including blueberries. According to National Geographic, “Hungry barren ground grizzlies can prowl 5,000-square-mile territories….the omnivorous barren ground’s mission is simple: relentlessly hunt down and consume every available scrap of food.” >>> Go to
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Day 5: We could now read the terrain well enough to avoid the most perilous footing created by interspersed basketballsized hummocks and ankle-deep puddles that often carpeted the valley floor. Rand sleepily arose to answer nature’s call around midnight, and was struck with a sense of being watched. Looking around, he saw the Alatna Valley flooded with caribou. A quick shout and the entire party was awakened to gaze in amazement at one of the greatest wildlife spectacles in nature. For two hours, a broad river of caribou poured into the valley across a nearby ridge. Animals kept coming and coming by the thousands, a mystical vision in the light of an early Arctic morning. Day 8: Yesterday we left the Alatna, Arctic Beauty crossed the continental divide, and entered Imaturok Pass, a huge plateau filled with lakes and surrounded by peaks. Now in the Nigu drainage on the North Slope, we walked a high ridge rather than the valley floor. The valley below became an emerald concourse rising to peaks and bisected by a meandering blue stream, the Nigu River. We saw caribou all day. We almost tripped over a grizzly sprawled in the sun like a bearskin rug. Next in our path was an Arctic Fox den. Four kits, clad in their dark summer coats, paused from their play to bark at us. They threw a stick in the air and pounced on it. One ran with the
stick, and the others gave chase or waited in ambush, practicing skills needed to make a living in the Artic winter. Day 10: We camped at a lake believed to be our rendezvous site for food resupply and inflatable canoes. To dine on blueberries from five-inch high bushes, we laid flat on the ground, hoping no bear had a prior claim there. From here, the Nigu was deep enough to float our boats. Several of us hiked upstream and found two moose, three Dall sheep, and ground squirrels galore. A yellow-billed loon visited camp. At eight that evening, a Flying Beaver also visited our camp, and we were resupplied, nautical, and once again utterly on our own. Day 12: A giant male moose walked through camp at 5 a.m. Pulling the boats onto a gravel bar, Darby spotted a bear cub across the stream. Not knowing where mom was, we were edgy, a mystery quickly solved when her big, round face popped up from behind a nearby berm. Sunlight from behind set her back-lit fur aglow. We departed in haste. After lunch we sighted another grizzly downriver on a tiny island that split the Nigu into two narrow channels. Sixfoot vertical walls cut into tundra confined our boats on either side, and the river was too swift for us to stop. We yelled, waved our paddles and blew our bear horns. When the bear
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finally took notice, it plunged into the river, swam to the bank, heaved its forepaws to the top of the vertical wall, and lifted its massive dripping body straight up and out of the river.
Lunch Time Day 14: Ducklings, jaegers, Arctic terns, a gyrfalcon. A dead caribou in the stream; live caribou on the skyline. At lunch we watched a grizzly and two ravens eating carrion on the far hillside. After a dinner of fresh grayling chowder, came four more hours of exploring—an advantage afforded by the long hours of daylight in the Arctic summer. We camped near a large bluff where the Nigu joins the Etivluk River. Day 18: Pat woke to find the Etivluk roaring fast and
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muddy with debris. Marker sticks told us it was rising four inches an hour. A couple of days earlier we had noticed storm clouds back in the mountains, but anticipated nothing like this. We hurriedly moved the tents higher on the gravel bar. By noon the river had formed a backwater lagoon between the valley terrace and us. We were now on an island. All agreed that heading into the floodwater was too dangerous, so we scouted escape routes across the backwater lagoon onto the terrace where we spotted a female grizzly and her yearling. The Etivluk crested at 3:40 p.m. We Down spent the evening watching the river recede, allowing a short paddle to the Colville River. Day 20 - 21: The bush pilot had described our pick-up point on the Colville: “Look for a run of deep water after the bend and blocks of coal on the beach across the river from a bluff with big birds on it.” Earlier he had warned that if we failed to appear on time, he would leave and not return. We got there a day early, although by now the days had begun to blend together. There it was: A bend in the river, deep water, coal on the beach, a golden eagle nest on the bluff to the east and a peregrine falcon nest to the west. On the evening of our arrival, a fledging eaglet successfully took its first flight. The next
morning, a sibling tried to duplicate the feat, but crashed into the Colville River. It did a feathered breaststroke to a nearby rock and spent the day drying in the sun with wings spread. This seemed enough to deter the third eaglet, at least as long as we watched. At the other end of the
the River
bluff, the peregrine parents busily rotated feeding four raucous and ravenous eyases. Taking from what seemed to be an endless supply of fat ground squirrels from the top of the bluff, the parents alternated bringing back to the nest a front half and then a bottom half of a kill. Squabbling as though the youngsters had not eaten for a week met each new arrival. At 6 p.m., we heard the faint drone of a Beaver. Soon, after meeting 14 barren ground grizzlies, 250 miles of hiking and paddling, and the adventure of a lifetime, we left behind this land with no trails, no campgrounds, no maps, no turning back—a true wilderness. ANW
When Bob Keller died on February 26, 2017, our community lost a remarkable person. He engaged the natural and human world with equal fervor. Though a steadfast individualist, Bob engendered community at every turn. A scholar and teacher, he taught by words and actions, inspiring generations of students and friends.
As a Whatcom Land Trust board member for almost 20 years, Bob twice assembled diverse teams of 75 people to create the iconic books, Whatcom Places I and II. He engaged the community. Bob taught classes at Western Washington University that ranged far and wide from Death and Dying to The Reader’s Digest to The Forests of the Pacific Northwest. He challenged students to think in ways they never imagined. One Keller class project became a statewide returnable bottle initiative that was only defeated by millions of dollars in industry money. He was a dedicated educator. When he planned to build a retirement study/library onto his home, he canvassed his neighbors to make sure the addition would not bother anyone. He respected others. He hiked over the Brooks Range, climbed the Cascades, walked the Grand Canyon rim to rim in one day, and paddled the Queen Charlottes and west coast of Vancouver Island. He embraced adventure. He and his wife Pat have preserved forever the wildness of their property on the Cascade River. He was a committed conservationist.
counseling our community
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A few examples: When the president of Olympic College in Bremerton ordered Bob to quit protesting the Vietnam war, Bob immediately put a protest sign in his office window. Bob was fired; sued the college; was reinstated and then quit. He lived his principles.
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Some traditions say that a person is not really dead until their name is no longer mentioned. Bob Keller deeply touched so many people that his name will not receive final mention for a long, long time.
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Ornithology Ornithology in the Yukon
NORTH
Story and photo by Lawrence Millman
T
his past spring I visited Whitehorse and a friend drove me to the Son of War Eagle Landfill a few miles outside of town. For local birders, this might as well have been Point Pelee, or even Brazil’s Pantanal.
“Last year I saw two uncommon species for the Yukon here—a Brewer’s blackbird and an American pipit,” my friend told me. Shortly after we arrived, we saw a raven perched magisterially atop a huge pyramid of tires. The bird peered down at us as if he were the monarch of all he surveyed. On the mounds of garbage directly beneath him there were other ravens, one scarfing down a bagel, another with what looked like a dog biscuit in its beak and yet another
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trying to extricate itself from the plastic bag around its feet. Despite the bag, I doubt the raven would have said, like Poe’s bird, “Nevermore.” A dump is a scavenger’s delight. Indeed, more than a thousand ravens spent the previous winter at the landfill. To keep warm, they did the equivalent of dumpster diving— periodically, they would thrust their bodies into the compost. Warm compost is much more effective than the specialized feathers on a raven’s nostrils in warding off the Yukon’s sub-zero temperatures. Soon we were seeing magpies, Canada jays, Thayer’s gulls, herring gulls, lesser back-beaked gulls, ospreys, the occasional pine grosbeak and a few dowitchers, all perched on, pecking at or waddling around in heaps of human throwaways. Here was God’s plenty: fish bones, chicken carcasses, the corpse of a large dog or coyote and various other items no longer identifiable. There were also bald eagles, dozens of them. For all their heroic reputation, they seemed perfectly at home in garbage. And why not? Old pizza crusts, moldy bread,
dead animals and putrefying fast food offered them a far more varied diet than what they’d get during, for example, a salmon run. I watched the eagles watching me with their sharp yellow eyes. Some seemed wary of a human-type being, but others appeared to be waiting for a handout. One eagle approached me and, in doing so, knocked aside a raven. This brusque gesture made me think of Benjamin Franklin’s remark that eagles are birds “of a bad moral character.” But not all the eagles are rude to ravens. The landfill’s attendant told me he’d recently seen an eagle and a raven that were, in his words, “buddies.” I asked if that meant they had an amorous relationship. “You can take it that way, yes,” he replied. Increasingly, the eagles—like the ravens—are spending their winters here. The Yukon Bird Club’s Christmas Bird Count in 2006 listed only one eagle, but in 2010 there were 15. And in the Yukon winter, almost anything edible is fair game. Last winter, in fact, an eagle is said to have made
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an almost-successful attempt to carry off a Pekingese as the dog’s owner was unloading her garbage. Natural selection among birds can happen fast , especially if there’s an opportunity for successful nesting and the easy availability of food. Among discarded bed frames, rotting plywood and old tires, the nesting sites are myriad, while a veritable smorgasbord is usually within pecking distance. To survive, most birds need to eat more than half their weight in food each day—not a problem at the Son of War Eagle Landfill. As we were leaving, the attendant mentioned that a California Condor had visited the landfill several years ago. A California Condor—remarkable! I later found out the bird in question was a turkey vulture. But given the turkey vulture’s usual geographical range, the fact that one showed up here was no less remarkable than if a California Condor had swooped down and carried off the remnant of a pepperoni pizza. Once we were on the road again, my friend made another suggestion. “Let’s go to the sewage lagoon,” he said. “A guy I know saw a tufted duck there a couple of years ago.” Suddenly I had an uncomfortable vision of the not too distant future, a time when the majority of creatures both great and small might be relying on Homo sapiens for their room and board. At such a time, I could easily imagine a raven, upon being queried about whether it wanted to live in the wild, shaking it’s head and exclaiming, “Nevermore!” ANW
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Discover BC’s National Parks This Summer ... FOR FREE!
Story by John Nelson
B
argains like this just don’t happen every year.
Admission to Canadian National Parks is free during 2017 as part of the country’s 150th birthday celebration. Add to that a favorable exchange rate on the U.S. dollar, and a car-camping
road trip north this summer looks like a steal. It’s time to start planning. British Columbia has five great national parks within a day’s drive of Western Washington. First, if you haven’t done so already, pick up your free parks Discovery Pass online at www.pc.gc.ca. By early March, more than 5 million people
from 177 countries had applied for the pass, says Eric Magnan, outreach coordinator with Parks Canada “The response has been incredible,” he says. If you’re planning on camping, many sites can be reserved online through Parks Canada. But if you have an RV or trailer, space is limited and is already filling up fast, Magnan says.
Surf’s Up on Long Beach, Pacific Rim National Park Reserve. Photo courtesy of Parks Canada
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“If you’re camping in a tent, your chances are much better,” he says. Many campsites are first-come, first-served, and your ability to grab a space “would be a matter of luck,” according to Magnan. Arrive early, go during mid-week or plan a trip during a shoulder season and your chances of getting a campsite are much better. If you are shut out during the busy summer season, most parks are near towns that offer services and other camping options (see sidebar). From west to east, let’s start the tour of five great national parks in British Columbia.
Pacific Rim The stretch of coastline in Pacific Rim National Park Reserve is one of the most beautiful in North America. The park is situated in a rainforest on the west coast of Vancouver Island and offers an appealing sense of isolation, thanks largely to the long
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drive across the island that seems to underscore its remoteness—it’s a five-hour drive from Victoria on some windy, car-sickness-inducing roads. It can feel like the drive takes forever, but once you’re there, you’re in another world. Pacific Rim is made up of three distinct units. The Long Beach Unit sits between the tourist-friendly towns of Tofino and Ucluelet and offers the only front-country camping. The others are the Broken Islands Unit, a sea-kayaking destination, and the backcountry hiking Mecca of the West Coast Trail Unit to the south. Camping: At Long Beach, Green Point Campground has reservable sites. During summer months, these come at a premium. Reserve now, but if you’re shut out—which is very possible during July and August—several commercial campgrounds nearby offer services. Activities: Hang loose, brah, you’re in one of North America’s very best surfing destinations. The area between Tofino and
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Ucluelet has many good breaks suitable for all levels of surfers. Rentals are available, and you’ll find several surf-schools. Kayaking, stand-up paddle-boarding and windsurfing also are popular ocean activities. Long Beach is arguably Canada’s nicest strand. It’s a wonderful place for a stroll, picnic or to simply to gaze at the wild Pacific Ocean. The park offers many hiking trails and you’ll never lack for places to explore.
Hiking the Abbot Ridge trail in Glacier National Park. Photo courtesy of Parks Canada
Mount Revelstoke This wintertime powder skiing destination has the largest vertical rise in North America at 5,620 feet. Come summer, you can explore Mount Revelstoke National Park as the snow gives way to wildflowers as well as the world’s only temperate inland rainforest. That’s right—the lower mountain is a rainforest and has giant cedar trees that you would normally see along the Pacific Coast, thanks to all the moisture Revelstoke receives. Getting to Revelstoke takes about six hours from Bellingham via Kamloops and then east on the Trans-
Canada Highway. The town of Revelstoke is a happening place. Outdoors enthusiasts are moving from the Vancouver and Calgary metro areas to the historic railroad town, bringing energy and oodles of money. Besides ample accommodations, you’ll find lots of good restaurants and tourist-friendly facilities. Camping: Mount Revelstoke has no drive-up campgrounds at this time, although one is being built and will open in 2019. In-park camping is available at nearby Glacier National Park. Commercial camping options abound in the Revelstoke area, and two provincial park campgrounds are nearby at Martha Creek and Blanket Creek. Activities: Road cyclists, get ready for a challenge. The Meadows to the Sky Parkway is a world-class grinder, ascending 4,500 feet to a summit that affords views of the surrounding valley and the Selkirk Mountains. The parkway also offers top-of-the-mountain access to motorists. It’s the only road in any of the national parks in Western Canada where you can drive to a high-alpine setting.
Sunday, August 27, 2017 25, 38, 62, or 100-mile routes from beautiful Bellingham
or: 10 mile family friendly ride with surprises for kids!
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If you choose to explore on foot, the lower slopes of the mountain offer trails that wind among the giant cedars while the higher trails provide access to colorful flower-filled alpine meadows. Late July and early August is peak wildflower season.
Pass, all first-come, first-served. All are fairly rustic, with no showers or laundry facilities and only a few sites that can accommodate RVs. That said, if you want to score a campsite in a national park,
Cascade River House
Glacier Like the American version, Canada’s Glacier National Park is a mountainlover’s paradise. From Revelstoke, it’s about 45 minutes east on the TransCanada Highway to Rogers Pass (4,364 feet) in the heart of the park. There, you’ll be standing in the location that linked the nation by rail in 1885. Learn about that rail history at Rogers Pass National Historic Site. The park is also the North American birthplace of mountaineering, with several climbs accessible off of Rogers Pass. Camping: Three front-country campgrounds are available at Rogers
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your chances are pretty good here. Activities: Train buffs should check out the Rogers Pass Discovery Center, a replica of a historic railway snow shed. When Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR)
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originally constructed its route, nearly four miles of snow sheds were built. These proved impossible to maintain, and CPR rerouted the rails to a tunnel beneath the pass in 1916. The abandoned rail lines and some structures remain, home today to all-access interpretive walks. For day-hikers, Glacier National Park is a dream destination. After the rail link was completed, Swiss guides were hired to construct trails into the mountains around Rogers Pass and
many of those historic routes remain.
Yoho You’re in the Canadian Rockies now, where everything is a little grander. You’re also likely to see more tourists who flock to Yoho National Park after visiting nearby Jasper and Banff national parks in Alberta. Yoho is an hour’s drive east from Rogers Pass. It offers superb hiking opportunities and has two of Canada’s
Interested in the sport of rowing? The Whatcom Rowing Association offers rowing and sculling programs for all ages 13 to 100, at all ability levels!
Come and check us out on:
National Learn to Row Day
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More info about our Learn to Row programs at www.whatcomrowing.org
most beautiful waterfalls. The park’s towering rock walls and turquoisehued high-mountain lakes offer up iconic Rocky Mountain scenery. Two notable accommodations take advantage of all this beauty. Emerald Lake Lodge, and Lake O’Hara Lodge sit in spectacular basins and will cost you a bundle, but these splurges are worth considering in such a beautiful area. Camping: Four first-come, firstserved front-country campgrounds are found in the park, and competition can be keen to score sites. Arrive early during high season. Kicking Horse Campground is the biggest and has the most amenities, with showers, flush toilets, RV sites and interpretive programs. Activities: Yoho is a land of dramatic water features. Takakkaw Falls plunges 1,260 feet off a cliff face. Wapta Falls, 490 feet wide, crashes down 98 feet on the Kicking Horse River. The aptly named Emerald Lake is
VISIT & EXPLORE Whatcom County’s visual arts community. Year-round you’ll find local artists, live theater, musical events, and more…
Spring Yoga Retreat In The North Cascades
Friday, June 16 - Sunday, June 18, 2017 North Cascades Institute, Diablo Lake
An Invitation to Rest, Relax, and Rejuvenate your Body, Mind and Spirit
Yoga • Mindfulness Meditation • Hiking
DISCOVER Art and Cultural Adventures in our free 2017–2018 Arts and Culture Guide Available at the Gallery — 1418 Cornwall Ave. in downtown Bellingham and locations throughout Whatcom County.
UPCOMING EVENTS from Allied Arts Bellingham SeaFeast September 22 & 23, 2017 Holiday Festival of the Arts November 17 – December 24, 2017 RARE – Recycled Arts and Resource Expo April 6 & 7, 2018 MORE information at www.alliedarts.org or 866.650.9317
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gorgeous, with access to many day hikes, and also offers options for paddling. The reservation-only Lake O’Hara trails also offer incredible views, but you’ll need to book in advance. In all, you’ll find nearly 250 miles of trails in Yoho that explore some of the most beautiful scenery in the Canadian Rockies.
Kootenay Your last stop on this tour in British Columbia is Kootenay National Park, about an hour’s drive south of Yoho. It too, offers great hiking opportunities. But after all that mountain walking, consider soaking your weary bones in one of British Columbia’s nicest hot springs. Camping: Three front-country campgrounds are available, and if you’re looking to sleep indoors, cabins are also available. You may reserve sites at Redstreak, near Radium Hot Springs. Also at Redstreak, you can reserve “oTENTiks,” which are essentially basic cabins with tent walls that have mattresses and sitting areas. Two other more rustic campgrounds operate in Kootenay on a first-come, first-served basis. Activities: Check out the Burgess Shale Fossils in a guided hike to the Stanley Glacier area. There, you can marvel at one of North America’s most significant fossil finds. But let’s face it, those feet and legs are tired after all your vacation hiking. Slip into the healing waters of Radium Hot Springs for a restorative soak.
POETRY FROM THE WILD
Missionary by Robert Michael Pyle One hundred thirty-six kinds of birds. That’s what the natives knew From their sounds alone. And every plant had a name, and a use. “Nothing but what’s out there in the forest!” is what the missionary said the natives had. He hacked his way in, to change all that. If there was such a thing as hell someone in this picture would be on the way – and it wouldn’t be the Indians.
National Park Towns
S
everal small towns in British Columbia are situated near the national parks and offer great amenities for your Canada 150 tour. Tofino: It’s literally at the end of the road, which gives this coastal village a feeling of being in its own world. That world is one of incredible beauty, surrounded by rainforest, fjords and striking beaches. All that beauty has attracted a bustling tourist industry with some excellent restaurants and accommodations. Things are about to pick up even more, says Kirsten Soder, executive director of Tourism Tofino. “Everyone is gearing up and staffing up,” she says. Visitation to nearby Pacific Rim National Park Reserve is expected to increase by 25 percent in 2017, and Soder recommends booking lodging and restaurant reservations well ahead of a visit. “We are discouraging people from just showing up without a plan,” she says. If July and August are completely booked, the temperate climate of the coast makes it perfect for a less-busy visit during shoulder season. Ucluelet: Just south of Pacific Rim, this delightful village stories & the race|play|experience calendar online.
Aboard the David B
San Juan Island • Broughton Archipelago Desolation Sound • Inside Passage • Alaska
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is a quieter alternative to the hustle and bustle of Tofino, a chance for visitors to have an authentic west coast experience and stop and smell the seaweed, as it were. “We’re surrounded by some of the most breathtaking beauty on the coast,” says Denise Stys-Norman, executive director of Tourism Ucluelet, “perched on the edge of a rainforest-clad peninsula between the ocean and Ucluelet Harbour.” ‘Ukee’, as it’s known to locals, offers a wide range of accommodations ranging from the upscale Black Rock Resort—just steps away from the Wild
round outdoors opportunities. Two national parks—Mount Revelstoke and Glacier —are nearby. “We’re seeing an influx of tourists who visit and want to make Revelstoke their home,” says Meghan Tabor of Tourism Revelstoke. The downtown core is bustling and big numbers of visitors are expected this summer. “You can hike right from your hotel room into the national park,” Tabor says. Golden: This historic logging and railroad town in eastern B.C. is “a little rough around the edges,” says Andy Brown of Tourism Golden—and that’s a good thing. “We’re keeping it Wapta Falls in Yoho National Park. Photo courtesy of Parks Canada real for people,” Brown says. “We’re an authentic mountain town that has a lot of amenities.” Golden is situated near six national parks, making it a great base camp destination. Glacier, Yoho, Jasper, Banff, Kootenay and Mount Revelstoke are all within a short drive. Nearby you’ll find activities such as whitewater rafting, mountain biking and alpine adventuring at nearby Kicking Horse Mountain Resort.
Pacific Trail— to small cabins tucked into secluded coves and nestled in the deep green of the rain forest. “To the south of Ucluelet, you find the Caribbean-like waters of the Broken Group Islands in the Barkley Sound,” Stys-Norman says. “Accessible by boat, the 20-minute journey takes you to this archipelago of pristine islands that boasts world class sea kayaking, sport fishing and wildlife tours that make you feel like you are in a world untouched by mankind.” Revelstoke: This historic railroad town has become one of B.C.’s hottest destinations, thanks to its many year-
ANW
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Trail Running A Celebration of Body and Soul An Interview with Abram Dickerson by Carl Bremen
T
wo years ago Abram Dickerson had a big idea.
The previous autumn he had completed a 34-mile run on the Copper Ridge Loop—a spectacularly scenic trail in North Cascades National Park—and the experience had left him wanting more. So Dickerson, a transplant to the Pacific Northwest from northern California, created Aspire Adventure Running, an organization dedicated to helping others experience the joy of long-distance running (without racing) in some of Cascadia’s most enthralling—and challenging—country. Now in its third year, Aspire offers organized trail runs throughout the North Cascades and at Mount Rainier.
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What is your background with trail running? I come to running by way of the wilderness. I am totally inspired and humbled by the juxtaposition of nature’s timelessness against my limited physicality and mental capacities. For years I ran for fitness and always in connection with - and preparation for - other wilderness objectives, most often climbing. It wasn’t until 2013, when a friend of mine suggested we run the Copper Ridge loop in the North Cascades that I embraced trail running as a primary means of movement and adventure. This shift coincides with a particular season in my life. As a father and husband I find myself balancing multiple roles and responsibilities. The increasing demands on my time have not lessened my love for adventure, but have shifted its expression. In trail running I find simplicity and accessibility. With increased fitness and physical capacity, trail running concentrates multiple days worth of wilderness travel into an ambitious but
achievable single-day objective. Endless miles of trails, remote mountains, and vast expanses of wilderness ensure a continual supply of motivation and satiates my craving for adventure. And it turns out that I’m a better parent and husband if I don’t disappear for days on end.
What prompted you to start offering organized trail runs? While training for Copper Ridge, I made the decision that I didn’t want our run to be a once and done affair. After running Copper Ridge, my friends and I spent lots of time looking at maps and
envisioning lots of other alpine running routes. To capitalize on their “line quality” (non-repetitive and exploratory nature), many of these runs needed to be point-to-point affairs. This of course meant vehicle shuttles, group coordination, hitchhiking, key swapping, and lots of creative problem solving. These issues combined with the immediate craving for good food and drink as the crowning celebration of every adventure set the wheels in motion for envisioning what Aspire would become. As the vision for a company grew, Aspire came to represent everything that motivated us as runner-climberadventure-athletes: remote technical trails, wilderness travel, great camaraderie, good food, and a strong stewardship ethic. I was surprised to learn that what we were offering was rather unique in the running community. There are all kinds of races, relays, adventure challenges, and running distances, but hardly any companies focused on sup-
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porting remote objective-oriented trail runs. The model for what we are doing already exists in other sports like white water rafting or supported bike touring.
How did you launch Aspire? Aspire developed a brand and identity in early 2015. Lots of time and energy went into permits, risk management, and program organization. We received our first permits with Mt. Rainier National Park, North Cascades National Park, and Mt. Baker Wilderness in the spring of that year. That summer we completed our first successful tours on the Wonderland
Hit the Trail this Summer! Aspire Adventure Trail Runs for 2017: Hannegan Peak July 22 Excelsior Traverse July 29 Wonderland Trail August 2-5 Wonderland Trail August 9-12 Skyline Divide August 19 Ptarmigan Ridge August 26 Thunder Series September 8-9 Whatcom Passage September 22-23 More info: aspireadventurerunning.com
Trail and the first ever organized trail running event/tour in North Cascades National Park last September.
What makes an Aspire trail run unique? Aspire events are runs, not races. We don’t assign bib numbers, we don’t keep time, there’s no podium, and no competition. Our runs are defined by destination and pure wilderness quality rather than pre-determined distances. We encourage our runners to enjoy their trail experiences by pausing to eat wild blueberries, jumping in an alpine lake, and not stressing as they hike the steep sections of trail. Savoring the experience is expected and encouraged. Our groups are small. We strictly adhere to a 12-person group size when travelling in wilderness areas. Runners travel at their own pace and often spread out over miles but are always “sandwiched” between two crew members in case of emergency. This small group experience is intimate, friendly, and welcoming.
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Why choose to run in the North Cascades? The North Cascades are a sacred and wild space. Experiencing these mountains as a runner with such simplicity and physicality honors the legacy and purpose of dedicated wilderness spaces. These mountains are humbling and inspiring.
What can participants expect from an Aspire event in terms of logistics? Our courses begin in population centers far from the actual trailhead. We meet in the morning with a light breakfast and shuttle runners to the trailhead. After a course overview and safety orientation, runners travel the route at their own pace, often in small groups or pairs, to the trail’s end where we have food and
drinks waiting. Once the full group arrives in camp, Aspire serves gourmet meals and the real feasting begins. Aspire provides all the chairs, heaters, tents, and gear to ensure that this time is warm, celebratory, and rejuvenating. After the festivities, the Aspire crew transports runners and their gear back to vehicles. If a trip is a multi-day affair, then the same support and crew extends to a second, third, or fourth day. We have a great team. The Aspire crew is comprised of individuals who have been deeply and profoundly influenced by wilderness. Each is an experienced guide, holds current first aid certifications, is a capable runner, a lover of good food, and passionate about their work. ANW
VITAL SIGNS
Market Fresh Solutions to Seasonal Allergies By Sarah Laing, B.Sc. Nutrition
If my eyes do not deceive me, spring appears to have officially sprung ... and with the warmer weather, blue skies and fragrant buds everywhere, pollen has definitely joined the party. If you’re anything like me, seasonal allergies–congestion, sneezing, itching, wheezing– have recently crept into your life, making springtime a little tougher to fully appreciate. You may have also noticed your local farmers markets are now open, rich with farm-fresh produce that beckons your inner chef to step up to the proverbial plate. Local springtime fruits and veggies offer a delicious arsenal of natural allergy busters, including lemons, apples, onions, garlic, broccoli and peas, containing a wide array of compounds that combat allergy-causing histamine production and fight inflammation. Antioxidants such as polyphenols in apples, anti-inflammatory micronutrients such as quercetin found in onions, and vitamin C in lemons and broccoli all help to combat the seasonal allergy blues. You also might try adding raw local honey to your repertoire, which contains pollen and helps your body to acclimate to your new colorful surroundings. Get creative and let the sights and smells of the season guide your palate to a healthy, vibrant you!
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Cascadia Gear: Essentials for your next Adventure Arc’teryx Beta AR Woman’s Shell As we’ve come to expect from Arc’teryx, the Beta AR Woman’s Jacket represents a pinnacle of hard-wearing, all-weather engineering: absolutely bomb-proof. Combining two weights of GORE-TEX® to maximize both breathability and ruggedness, the Beta AR has bells and whistles galore—an advanced hood/collar interface featuring a soft microsuede chin guard, generous (but low-profile) pit-zips that glide easily and adjustable wrist closures. The hip-length design provides ample protection from the elements and works well with a pack waist strap. At 16.7 ounces, it’s not the lightest shell on the market but if you seek uncompromised protection from the worst weather, the Beta AR will not disappoint. More info: arcteryx.com
The North Face Straight Paramount 3.0 Convertible Pants For me, zip-offs are essential backpacking garb—the option to use them as long pants and shorts provides an efficient two-for-one wardrobe option. The North Face Straight Paramount 3.0 Convertibles are everything you could want in a zip-off. They’re lightweight (17.5 ounces) yet tough, and the stretchy nylon is soft to the touch; repels water; wicks moisture and provides UV protection. The key to these kind of pants is—of course—the zippers. The zippers on the Paramount 3.0s are smooth and virtually undetectable during wear (and they’re color-coded so you know which leg goes where!). Zippers at the leg openings facilitate making the switch from pants to shorts (or vice versa) without having to remove your boots.
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5 Tips for Hammock Camping by Chris Gerston
In 2015, my kids and I tried hammock camping for the first time in the Uinta Mountains of Utah at 9,000 feet. I thought I’d share some of the lessons we learned and some suggestions from our resident hammock expert at Backcountry Essentials, Niki Moltumyr: 1. Insulation—you will definitely want something underneath you to keep the cold night air from pulling away your heat. If you have an inflatable pad, use it semi-inflated. A low-tech foam pad like a Therm-a-Rest Z Lite or RidgeRest works really well. 2. Use a Rain fly—The big tip here is to think about using reflective cord to hang your tarp; you’ll appreciate not catching your neck at night. Both Therm-a-Rest and ENO make rain flys that are lightweight and affordable. 3. Bug nets or not?—This is location dependent. One solution aside from a bug net, is to buy a double-wide hammock, like the ENO DoubleNest®, which will give one person enough extra material to burrito-roll themselves up to keep the bugs out. 4. Tension Straps—These provide many points to attach to if you are short on anchors and they allow you to quickly change the tension of the hammock for either sleeping or lounging. I find it more comfortable to snooze diagonally in a taught hammock to prevent my legs from going to sleep. 5. Accessorize!—There are lots of fun accessories like lights to make your camping experience a party for all ages. My kids love the Luci Lights that inflate and change color; I like the fact that they’re solar rechargeable. Chris Gerston owns Backcountry Essentials, an outdoor specialty shop located at 214 W. Holly in Bellingham, WA. Check out more of Chris’ gear reviews at AdventuresNW.com
ENO DoubleNest® Hammock Sponsored review
Toad & Co. Woman’s Spindrift Anorak
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For casual outings that might include a little of the ‘liquid sunshine’ that the Pacific Northwest is known for, this anorak from Toad & Co. is great for running around town or going for short walks in a light rain. Water repellent and quick-drying, this nylon pullover has a soft cottony hand and three-piece hood. It’s lightweight, durable and packs into one of the pockets. Our gear tester loved the slightly longer length and the fact that the fabric is bluesign® approved for sustainable textile production. More info: www.toadandco.com
Support WWU Art Photography Students Give at vikingfunder.com/Photography View their work at Artwalk on Friday, June 2nd WWU City Center 1155 N. State Street #110
Frankie Krupa-Vahdani and Robin Jones
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28 May - 29 July
MAY >>> Sunday, 28 May SPECIAL Ski to Sea––7:30 am – 7:00 pm. First run in 1973, the Ski to Sea Race is the original adventure race; a 93 mile multi-sport, team relay (Cross Country Ski, Downhill Ski/Snowboard, Running, Road Bike, Canoe, Cyclocross Bike, and Sea Kayak) from Mt. Baker to Bellingham Bay. The race is held annually on the Sunday of Memorial Day weekend in Whatcom County. Join us at the Finish Line in Marine Park for food, fun and beer by Boundary Bay Brewery!
JUNE >>> Saturday, 3 June RUN/WALK Girls on the Run 5K–– Lake Padden Playground Shelter, 9:00 am – 11:30 am. Celebratory fun run open to the community!
RACE I PLAY I EXPERIENCE CALENDAR CYCLING Lake to Lake Bike Ride. A recreational ride for the whole family.––Lake Hills Park, 9:00 am – 12:00 pm. Two unique loops; a mostly flat Greenbelt Loop flat 9-mile route; and the Lake Loop which is a more challenging 22-mile route. Routes are about 80% on-road and 20% off-road (gravel). The routes take riders to and through Bellevue’s award winning park system exploring hidden treasures of Bellevue. Benefits the City of Bellevue youth camp scholarship fund. Entry fees are low. Participants receive a custom t-shirt. Lots of goodies at post ride fest.
Rowing Association celebration of National Learn to Row Day on June, 3rd from 10-2 at Bloedel-Donovan Park in Bellingham. Look for the boathouse. You’ll be introduced to an 8 person rowing shell and be able to try out rowing in Lake Whatcom. We look forward to seeing you.
SPECIAL National Learn to Row Day––Bloedel Donovan Park,10:00 am – 2:00 pm. Have you ever wondered what it would be like to row in an 8 person shell, ala “Boys in the Boat”. Come and try it out at Whatcom
CYCLE 11th Annual Gorge Ride–– Gorge Discovery Center, 7:00 am – 4:00 pm. Recreational bike ride on the Historic Columbia River Highway from The Dalles to West Trailhead.
Friday, 16 June - Sunday, 18 June SPECIAL North Cascades Yoga Retreat––North Cascades Institute, Diablo Lake. Yoga, Mindfulness, Hiking. All levels welcome. Info: whatcomyoga.com
Saturday, 17 June
Monday, 26 June - Friday, 30 June SPECIAL Girls on the Run One Week Summer Camp––Lake Padden Playground area, 9:30 am – 1:00 pm. Girls entering 3rd through 6th grade participate in dynamic, interactive lessons and running games. SPECIAL Trailblazers Weekly Summer Camps––Lake Padden Playground Area, 10:00 am – 12:30 pm. Non-competitive trail running camp for boys and girls in 2nd to 6th grade.
JULY >>> Saturday, 15 July TRIATHLON Lake Whatcom Triathlon––Bloedel Donovan Park, 7:00 am – 2:30 pm. Make this the year
you do an Olympic-distance triathlon! Lake Whatcom Triathlon offers official timing, a breathtaking course, lots of community support, and prizes. Go it solo or create a relay team with some friends to tackle the 1500-meter swim in Lake Whatcom, 40km bike next to the lake, and 10km run through the picturesque Whatcom Falls Park. Start, finish and transition will all take place at Bloedel Donovan Park, as well as post-race festivities. RUN/WALK Bite Size Mud & Chocolate Trail Run––Robinswood Park, 8:30 am – 10:00 am. 3 mile & Kids Dash Trail Runs with Chocolate Medals and Finish Area
Friday, 28 July HIKE/CLIMB Four-Plus Foolhardy Folks Volkssporting, Northwest Hiking Weekend+Tri-Event––Teo Park, 8:00 am – 5:00 pm. Three challenging July 28-30 days of hiking, swimming and biking. Volkssporting at its best!
Saturday, 29 July CYCLING Tour de Whatcom––In front of Boundary Bay Brewery, 7:00 am – 6:00 pm. The Northwest’s most beautiful ride! With four different rides ranging from 22 miles to 100, there is something for every member of the family. You’ll see Lake Whatcom, Mt Baker, valleys, rivers, farmland and beaches. This is a ride not a race and your fee benefits local charities. Special rates for families and Tandem riders. Join us for the WCC 50th Anniversary Legacy Tour, only offered in 2017.
Presented by:
An adventure ride for the whole family
Saturday, June 3rd, 2017
$15 advance $20 day of event
www.bellevuewa.gov/lake-to-lake-ride.htm
360.676.1977 • www.lithtexnw.com
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Start/Finish: Lake Hills Community Park
#coblk2lk • 425-452-4882 • bikeride@bellevuewa.gov RACE | PLAY | EXPERIENCE
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13 August - 9 September
AUGUST >>> Sunday, 13 August RUN/WALK Mud & Chocolate Trail Runs––Soaring Eagle Park, Sammamish, 8:00 am – 1:00 pm. 4.5 Mile and Half Marathon Trail Runs with Chocolate, chocolate, chocolate!
Saturday, 26 August SPECIAL Telluride MountainFilm on Tour––Winthrop Town Park, 7:00 pm – 10:00 pm. Under the stars at Winthrop Town Park will be 3 hrs of the best films from Telluride Mountainfilm following the infamous Cuttthroat Classic Trail Run. Seating and ticket sales open at 7pm. Tickets purchased online will be available at the Will Call Gate. Show starts at 8pm. Bring your dinner, beverages, blankets and chairs and get comfy in the grass under the night sky!
Sunday, 27 August CYCLING Chuckanut Classic––Starts at Boundary Bay Brewery, 7:00 am – 5:00 pm. Ride to support Our Treehouse. Beautiful scenery, great rest stops, beer/food at the end!
SEPTEMBER >>> Saturday, 9 September RUN/WALK Park to Peak 17K/7K/Kid Dash–– Hillcrest Lodge, 10:00 am – 1:00 pm. Park to Peak trail run is an exciting and beautiful race that supports the
BELLINGHAM
TRAVERSE
Get Hooked on the Bellingham Traverse- a fun multi-sport relay race that celebrates the journey of wild salmon. You can help support Recreation Northwest’s Fairhaven Park Trail & Boardwalk stewardship project and educational programs with your team. Saturday, September 16th at noon. Your team, made up of friends, family or co-workers, come out for a day of racing and experiencing all that is Bellingham! Enjoy the quintessential offerings of our scenic parks, winding trails and open waterways. It all ends at Boundary Bay with fresh Traverse Ale and a hoppin’ party. Sound Fishy? If you’re not into “racing”, we’d love for you to give us a hand as a volunteer.
September 16th
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RACE | PLAY | EXPERIENCE
>>> VIew or download even MORE Race|Play|Experience
9 September (cont.) - 6 October non-profit Skagit Symphony as we strive to bring beautiful music to our community. It begins at Hillcrest Lodge in Mt. Vernon, swoops up Little Mountain via combination of road and trails, and drops back down to finish at the lodge. The scenery is beautiful! There’s a short Kids’ Dash that takes place just before the main event, too. See you then!
Saturday, 16 September SPECIAL Bellingham Traverse–– Boundary Bay Brewery, 12:00 pm – 5:00 pm. Get Hooked on the Vital Choice Bellingham Traverse, a fun relay race that celebrates the journey of wild salmon. Families, friends and local companies form solo, tandem and relay teams to run, bike and paddle through
FIND Adventures NW is available free at hundreds of locations region-wide: throughout Whatcom, Skagit, San Juan, and Island counties, at select spots in Snohomish, King, and Pierce counties, and in Leavenworth, the Methow Valley, Spokane, and Wenatchee. The magazine is also available at REI locations across Washington and Oregon as well as at numerous locations in the Vancouver, BC metro area and through races and events and at area visitor centers. SUBSCRIBE Receive Adventures NW via mail anywhere in the US or Canada. Visit AdventuresNW.com/subscribe for subscription info. ADVERTISE Let Adventures NW magazine help you reach a diverse, receptive audience throughout the Pacific Northwest, and be part of one of the most valued and engaging publications in the region. Info is at AdventuresNW.com/advertise or by writing to ads @ AdventuresNW.com.
CONTRIBUTE Adventures NW welcomes original article queries—including feature stories, expert advice, photo essays, the Next Adventure shot, etc. For information: AdventuresNW.com/contribute. EVENTS Have your outdoor-related event, race or public outing listed in the quarterly
Race|Play|Experience calendar and in our comprehensive on-line version. Visit AdventuresNW.com/submit-your-event to post events or contact ads @ AdventuresNW.com for details.
11th Annual
Bellingham’s scenic parks, winding trails and open waterways. The course includes a Greenways Run (5.5 mi); Mountain Bike (6.0 mi); Road Bike (18 mi.); Trail Run (3.4 mi); Paddle (3.6 mi.); Team TREK (0.65 mi.)
Bay, the San Juan Islands, and North Cascade mountains, we are often called the most beautiful marathon in the Pacific Northwest. Come experience Bellingham and “Run the Bay”!
Saturday, 23 September TRIATHLON Methow Valley OffRoad Duathlon––Sun Mountain, 9:00 am – 2:00 pm. Please join us for the 7th Annual Methow Valley Off-Road Duathlon, held at the iconic Sun Mountain resort on the Methow trail system. Come enjoy the falls colors with expansive views of the valley in the heart of the North Cascades. Try the original HARDMAN 40K Mountain Bike, 10K Trail run or the new SPRINT 20K Mountain Bike & 5K Trail Run, TEAM or SOLO. FREE microbrew, plenty swag and a warm bowl of chili!
Sunday, 24 September RUN/WALK Bellingham Bay Marathon––Depot Market Square, 7:30 am – 2:00 pm. With views of Bellingham
Saturday, 30 September RUN/WALK Island Quest AR––Moran State Park, Orcas Island, 6:00 am – 6:00 pm. From rugged coastline, to granite-capped mountains, the San Juans are truly an adventure racing paradise. You will navigate a series of checkpoints to make your way from start to finish on this 12 hour team race. Where’s the course? You’ll get that information a half hour before the race begins! Join us for Island Quest AR.
OCTOBER >>> Friday, 6 October SPECIAL Dungeness Crab & Seafood Festival––Port Angeles City Pier, 10:00 am – 10:00 pm. Food, Music, Arts, 5-km Run.
ANW
Use discount code ANW17 to save 10% on any race entry!
September 24th, 2017 FULL • HALF • 10K • 5K
RACE SERIES SALISH SEA ROAD
t
2017 Final Even
event listings at AdventuresNW.com
bellinghambaymarathon.org @bhambaymarathon RACE | PLAY | EXPERIENCE
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The Wildflower Gardens of Mt. Rainier photo by JUDI KUBES Since moving to the gorgeous state of Washington four years ago I have fallen in love with Mount Rainier National Park. I am up there hiking and shooting photos whenever possible...which is often! “The Mountain” as we locals call it, is literally in my backyard. Every time of the year is special on The Mountain but my favorite season is wildflower time in July or August. The colors and scents are intoxicating. It is a magical place to be and one you can never forget. Mount Rainier is my special place, a place I can go and forget everything and just live in the moment! See more of Judi’s photography at judikubes.net.
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The heartbeat of Cascadia
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