Overhand Knot - Rope/Webbing Webbing Overhand Loop on a Bight
Water Knot Overhand Bight with Webbing
Figure 8 on a Bight Figure 8 Follow Through
Figure 8 Stopper Knot Figure 8 Bend
Double Fishermans
Triple Wrap Prusik Hitch
Triple wrap Prusik Hitch
Butterfly Knot
Square Knot
Seat Harness
Wrap 3 Pull 2 High-Strength Tie-Off
Radium Release Hitch
Break Bar Rack
Low Angle Litter tie-in Belay Line System
Main Line Lower and Raise System
Main Line System from Lower to Raise
Main Line System from Raise to Lower
Reference 1 Rope Construction
Reference 2 Static Rope / Hardware
Reference 3 Dynamic Rope use / Knot Strength
Reference 4 Anchor Angle / Load
Reference 5 Anchor Angle / Load
Reference 6 Force on Anchors / Low & High Angle Risk
Reference 7 Pulling Force
Reference 8 Rope Fiber Chart
Rope Fiber Comparison Chart Characteristics Nylon
Polyester
Polypropylene
Polyethylene
Kevlar
Spectra
Strength
3
4
5
6
2
1
Shock force absorption
1
5
3
4
6
2
Abrasion resistance
3
2
4
5
6
1
Flexing endurance
1
2
4
5
6
3
Wet strength (%)
85
98
100
105
100
100
Floats/sinks
sinks
sinks
floats
floats
sinks
floats
Specific gravity
1.14
1.38
0.91
0.95
1.44
0.97
Elongation at break (%)
15-28
12-15
18-22
20-24
1.5-3.6
2.7-3.5
6
<1
0
0
0
0
Low working temp (˚F)
-70
-70
-20
-100
-100
-200
Sticky point (F˚)
250
275
200
150
350
150
Melting point (F˚)
480
500
330
285
800
297
4
2
5
6
1
3
1=Best 6+Poorest
Water absorbion (%)
Creep
Resistance to Degradation Sunlight UV
Good
Excellent
Poor
Fair
Fair
Excellent
Acids
Poor
Excellent
Excellent
Excellent
Good
Excellent
Alkalis
Good
Poor
Good
Good
Good
Excellent
Oil and gas
Good
Good
Good
Good
Good
Good
Elect. conductivity resist.
Poor
Good
Good
Good
Good
Good
Source: Compiled from Cordage Institute Information and Wellington Puritan rope and fiber comparison
Reference 9 Marin County Sheriff's Search and RescueTeam Technical Rescue Protocol
SYSTEMS High angle evolution: • lowering – use brake bar rack • hauling – use Z-rig (pig-rig can be an option where necessary, with appropriate experience) • belay – use tandem prusiks Low angle evolution: • litter going down – use brake bar rack • litter going up – use single prusik COMMANDS • for a typical high angle evolution (individual situations may requires variations) once rigging is complete 1) rescue team leader: stop, safety check 2) edge tender/rescue team leader: rescuer ready? 3) rescuer: ready? 4) edge tender: on belay? 5) belayer: belay on 6) edge tender: ready to lower? 7) lower (station): ready 8) edge tender: lower away slowly 9) lower: lowering 10) rescuer: stop, reached subject ADDITIONAL COMMANDS: 11) edge tender: stop • anyone at anytime: stop (+why stop) 12) edge tender: lock lower -everyone holds position, no rope movement 13) lower: lower locked -after a ‘stop’ and the situation is resolved, return to step 2 14) edge tender: lock belay • anyone at anytime: rock (refers to anything falling over the 15) belayer: belay locked edge/from above) 16) edge tender: rescuer ready? -those below hold head level so their helmets protect them; DO NOT 17) rescuer: ready LOOK UP 18) edge tender: on belay? • edge tender always relays commands between rescuer and rope 19) belayer: belay on team when direct communication between the two is not possible 20) edge tender: ready to haul? • slack: feed out rope (e.g. slack haul line, slack belay, tension lower) 21) closest hauler: ready • tension: pull on rope (e.g. tension haul line, tension belay, tension 22) edge tender: tension haul line lower) 23) edge tender: release prusik • rope: rope coil thrown (e.g. over a cliff edge) 24) prusik tender: prusik released • dead line: only those who are anchored go beyond this point 25) edge tender: haul away slowly 26) closest hauler: hauling 27) edge tender: stop 28) edge tender: set prusik 29) prusik tender: prusik set 30) edge tender: resetting 31) edge tender: slack haul line slowly 32) edge tender: take a bight 33) repeat steps 16-26 34) edge tender: rescuer(s) and subject safe (past dead line) 35) rescuer: off belay 36) belayer: belay off
Reference of Illistrations and Information Recommended Reading
On Rope North American Vertical Rope Techniques by Bruce Smith and Allen Padgett Illustrations by Ron Buffington Alpine Operations by Mark V. Lonsdale Mountaineering Freedom of the Hills 6th Edition by The Mountaineers edited by Don Graydon and Kurt Hanson Engineering Practical Rope Rescue Systems by Michael G. Brown Rope Rescue Manual by James A. Frank and Jerrold B. Smith The Handbook of Knots by Des Pawson Technical Rescue Riggers Guide by Rick Lipke Rope Rescue Manual CMC Field Guide 3rd Edition by CMC The Complete Guide to Rope Techneques by Nigel Shepherd