Amiata (GB)

MONTE AMIATA: rocks and spirituality between the Tuscan hilltops On top of Maremma 1 L NA LA NATURA N ATURA IN PERSONA N

www.turismoinmaremma.it

2

Montagna incantata, montagna di bronzo sacra agli etruschi, isola in terraferma.

Enchanting mountain range, bronze mountain Etruscans considered sacred, mainland island.

3

Extremely ancient extinct volcano, the Amiata area is entrancing with its eyecatching views and millenary secrets.

Some call it a mountain, others a mount; while the former stresses the feminine and maternal aspects, the delicate and light lines, the latter, on the other hand, underlines its ruggedness, the narrow gorges, the ravines, the rock faces.

A double, androgynous face which also transpires from its mythical patrimony: tender love legends (il Prato della Contessa, la bella Antiglia), miraculous and salviďŹ c appearances (la Madonna di Lamula, la Vergine della CaritĂ , the stories of San Bernardino), Then strong and ďŹ ery legends where the characters are demons (la schiaccia del Diavolo), dragons and monsters (il Drago della Selva or il mostro di Semproniano), blasphemers and criminals (Camicione and Giovagnolo).

A land Amiata where each historical period has left its imprint: pile dwellings, prehistoric areas, traces of Roman villas, venues where magicians and paladins stayed (the cave of Merlin the Wizard); fortresses and towers and medieval castles (the Fortress of Montelaterone, the Aldobrandesco Castle in Arcidosso and Potentino in Seggiano, 4

the Fortress of Silvana, the Castle of Triana); noble and austere Renaissance buildings (Palazzo Nerucci in Castel del Piano and Palazzo Sforza Cesarini in Santa Fiora, Villa Sforzesca in Castell’Azzara); then eighteenth and nineteenth century squares and road widenings to finally reach the modernization of the twentieth century hand in hand with the mining culture.

An agglomeration of homes nestled on hilltops and fairy-tale summits: like Roccalbegna, perfect blend of natural phenomena (the “sasso” rock tower), workmanship (the magic castle hanging over the Stronghold) and art (Ambrogio Lorenzetti, Luca di Tommè, Francesco Nasini). Or Rocchette di Fazio (Semproniano), miraculously ly hanging over the gorges of the Albegna river. ver.

Or Montelaterone: from one ne end it looks like it’s about to fall over thee top of the spur supporting it and from above ve it looks like an extremely solid framework ork for all homes which cram up one against the other till they reach the fortress at thee very top.

And everywhere you’ll find Romanesque parish churches, es, Renaissance churches, convents, artworks, ancient, historically valuable itineraries still visible; these paths can still be seen and recall the pilgrimages which led too Rome thousand of years ago. o.

Towns and villages set like jewels, tiny art coffers: like the magnificent ceramics

by Della Robbia kept in the Parish Churches of Sante Flora and Lucilla of Santa Fiora, the many paintings by Nasini which every town boastS and which can be especially seen by visiting Castel del Piano.

In the villages (Grosseto’s Amiata area has eight town councils) which surround the Amiata volcanic cone opposite the springs, the works of art chiseled by famous artists rise side by side those of the anonymous creators of the urban plan. The use of local stone, peperino carved and friezed by expert hands, is the material used for the special buildings and monuments of this land: castles and seigniorial and plebeian homes, but also fountains, wells, obelisks, monuments, votive tablets, so visitors can follow this distinctive line on the discovery of the material and imagination world of this mountain as well.

As an example, the evocative capitals of the Pieve di Lamula (crossroad between Arcidosso, Montelaterone, Castel del Piano), where warriors and symbols, bonds and plots, cavaliers and animals, are interwoven just like in a enigmatic bestiary. Often springs and wells still spout next to the parish churches and convents or their ruins, testifying pure devoutness for water which flows to quench the thirst of the Amiata, Maremma and Sienese regions and to celebrate this wealth, customs and feasts were created with

6

legends and fables handed down through generations.

Poets and mystics came here for inspiration (Giovan Domenico Peri, seventeenth century country poet of the enchanting mountain, would read his poems at the Fonte del Poeta in Arcidosso,) and oratories and sacred shrines were built over the stretch of spring waters.

Together with the cult of water, of fire, rose a pagan strength to destroy evil, evoking ancient spells and initiation rituals.

A strong sense of religion based on anything natural, part of an emotionally charged mysticism which has always enveloped this corner of Tuscany with its “antique heart,” to adopt an expression by Padre Ernesto Balducci, fine intellectual

from Santa Fiora, one of the greatest men of this land. Mysticism represents another itinerary truly identifying the Amiata region which today has become a romantic core, bringing together religions and philosophies which coexist without conict. So you will not be surprised to ďŹ nd ancient ruins facing the David Lazzaretti tower in Monte Labbro (Lazzaretti had tried to build an egalitarian society inspired by Christian values by the end of the nineteenth century and for this reason, was killed in 1878). Nearby, the Tibetan community of Dzog Chen di Merigar, which chose Monte Labbro as its headquarters. All lying under the iron Cross set on top of Monte Amiata and built at the beginning of the twentieth century, a witness to the secular Catholic tradition which brought saints and mystics to the mountain: from Santa Caterina da Siena (the homes where she lived still stand in Montegiovi and Monticello), to San Bernardino to San Francesco. And amongst the crosses, those which preacher Baldassarre Audibert planted as banners representing penance and salvation. He dotted crossroads and summits, towns and countrysides with many wooden signs of Christ all dated 1846 and stuck to the ground with a peperino base.

Currently, other itineraries have been added to those from the past and aim to valorize the environmental and enogastronomic resources with many discoveries to be made: from the museum course to the National Park of the Mines, to the Road for sampling

8

Local Products (oil from the “Dop Olivastra Seggianese, Doc wine of Montecucco, Igp chestnuts, mushrooms, cheeses, cold cuts, typical dishes, sweets, bread) on the discovery of natural reserves, animals, ora.

Meander through the paths which run across the heart of the mountain either by car, foot, bicycle or horse. A wide range of choices for those who wish to discover a territory, to learn about its history and traditions, especially with the intent of taking a part of it with them back home.

so

Arcidos

The center of town which builds up to a pyramid made of homes and narrow alleys, culminates with the Aldobrandesco Castle (the primitive center dates back to the eleventh century) and the three churches San Niccolo, San Leonardo and Sant’Andrea are interesting examples of the Romanesque style.

Inside the castle you will find the David Lazzaretti Center for Studies and the Fauna Park’s Visitor Center. The Sanctuary of the Madonna Incoronata (fifteenth-sixteenth centuries) is outside the town walls on the road leading to Montelaterone. Further on down, surrounded by chestnut groves, you will run into the Parish Church Santa Maria ad Lamulas, extremely fine example of Romanesque art. Mid way between Arcidosso and Castel del Piano you will find the Convent of the Cappuccini friars with paintings by Vanni and Nasini and the early twentieth century small chapel dedicated

10

to Merope Becchini. Near Arcidosso, there’s the Castle of Montelaterone, first to be built in the western Amiata region, (1004 a.C.) and evocative and intact villages like Stribugliano, Zancona, Macchie, Salaiola.

ano

l Pi e d l e t s Ca

The town has a medieval historical center with fourteenth century walls which still stand and are viable and the churches of San Leonardo and S.S. Sacramento and next ou’ll find to Porta dell’Orologio you’ll ratic Palazzo Nerucci, aristocratic ce palace in the renaissance style (mid sixteenth cci century). Palazzo Nerucci hosts the Museum of Ancient Art (many artworks of the Nasini family of painters and a self portrait by Rosalba Carriera and more) and modern art (a d collection of posters and paintings by Edo Cei). wo Piazza Madonna has two

12

fifteenth century churches (Churches of San Niccolò e Lucia and Madonna delle Grazie).

They host highly valuable paintings and furnishings including the fifteenth century plate Madonn Madonna delle Grazie by an artist who was part of the Sano di Pietro school school. In Corso Nasini there is th the San Giuseppe Oratory ho hosting valuable artworks b

by Francesco Nasini.

JJust outside the town, the small Romanesque church of Santa Lucia.

In addition, there are other typical medieval ccenters like Montegiovi an and Montenero d’Orcia, tod today renown village for its produ production of Montecucco oil and win wine.

zara

Az Castell’

It’s highest town of the Monte Amiata Grosseto region at 809 meters a.s.l. Facing the Valle del Paglia, Castell’Azzara has been the mining town par excellence (the area is full of cinnabar and even attracted the Etruscans from the Sovana area), a part of history which has been currently documented by the Cornacchino Galleries open to visitors. Worthy of note, the sixteenth century Villa Sforzesca which was recently finely restored and Rocca Silvana next to Selvena, fortress of great strategic importance owned by the Aldobrandeschi family.

14

Still visible, the octagonal plan, the tower, the ruins of the seigniorial palace and the town wall sections.

no Cinigia Main hinge between the Amiata and Maremma regions, the Cinigiano town council comprises the small villages of Sasso d’Ombrone, the medieval castle of Colle Massari and the famous Montecucco Factory which has given its name to the valuable Doc wine; Poggi del Sasso and Monticello Amiata follow. Poggi del Sasso hosts the new monastery of the Siloe Community.

Small gem for the architecture and works of art it oers, Monticello Amiata stands out both for its well rooted mystical traditions (legend and sanctuary of the Madonna di Val di Prata) and for its anthropological ones. the Home Museum oers visitors a true example of how the material patrimony of the nineteenth century country civilization has been valorized and is open to visitors to tell the humble and working-class history as opposed to the noble and aristocratic one epitomized by the castles of Porrona (with town parishes and two seigniorial villas) and

by Castiglioncello Bandini, Aldobrandesco fortress, open terrace overlooking the Maremma expanses which reach the sea.

16

egna b l a c c Ro The town is an enchanting natural environment, unspoilt and primitive, oering many interesting buildings and works of art: the Sasso and the Rocca, the labyrinth of roads and alleys and small buildings of the historical center, the Church of Santi Pietro e Paolo, perhaps the most important Romanesque monument of the entire western Amiata region. With works of art by Ambrogio Lorenzetti, Luca di Tommè and Francesco Nasini. Then the palaces: Bichi Ruspoli and della Lana. A short distance away the Castello della Triana, which ďŹ rst belonged to the Aldobrandeschi family and later to the Piccolomini. Going down towards Maremma you will run into the small village of Santa Caterina where an Ethnographic Museum was set up, hosting original items which were used during feasts and popular entertainment.

Then Vallerona and Cana.

18

iora

Santa F

The town rapidly falls from the terziere di Castello a Borgo to Montecatino with sudden rises and steep slopes which are the main attraction of the town. Everything is worth a visit here: from the Convent delle Clarisse to the Sant’Agostino Convent, to the small Misericordia church, to the parish church of Saints Flora and Lucilla, which hosts valuable della Robbia terracotta decorations (fifteenth century).

Do visit the Peschiera, a big garden park where the waters of the springs of the Fiora river run, and where rare vegetation is cultivated. And the cemetery which houses the mortal remains of David Lazzaretti, Amiata’s Messiah, of Father

20

Ernesto Balducci, the memorial stone of the Niccioleta martyrs (Eighty miners who were shot down by the nazis on June 14 1944) and the tomb of Statesman Fernando Di Giulio. In Piazza Garibaldi, besides the Sforza Cesarini Renaissance Palace, you will also find the Museum of Mines where you can relive the mining life. The village and Selva Convent are interesting to visit.

no

Seggia

Nestling on a hill following the Vivo, Vetra, Ormena and Matrolla streams, it offers the possibility of discovering many art treasures, some exposed in the Palazzo Pubblico Museum and others in the churches and oratories: San Rocco, with frescoes by Girolamo di Domenico, San Bartolomeo, the Corpus Domini, the Madonna della Carità, temple of excellent Renaissance make whose construction is tied to a famous legend.

Also extremely interesting, the Museo dell’Olio, oil museum with machinery and tools of the era. The Potentino Castle, dating back to 1042, is only a kilometer away and is a finely restored example of a medieval manor. Worth a visit, the Garden of Daniel Spoerri, perfectly evocative with a spacious environment hosting modern art installations. The Pescina village is delightful.

22

iano n o r p m Se It hangs over a hillock overlooking the Albegna river, with the small towns of Cellena and Catabbio. Worth a visit, the Santa Croce Church, the parish church of Santi Vincenzo and Anastasio, the Oratory of San Rocco. Semproniano stands out for its majestic olive groves and a millenary one still boasts sons and descendents, pride of the local community. Here poet Mario Luzi, born from a local family, drew much of his inspiration. Of great emotional impact, the small village of Rocchette di Fazio, perched over the Albegna river. A medieval village rising above the Aldobrandeschi Fortress, which looks like it’s suspended between earth and sky just like a nativity scene. In Rocchette you will also ďŹ nd the ruins of a sixteenth century Hospital, of the Court House and Palazzo Pubblico. The villages of Petricci and Cellena are enchanting.

24

Natura Site of Regional Importance (SRI) 117

Upper Monte Amiata It was set up to preserve the migratory bird life, a wide reserve surrounding the beech-wood and chestnut forests.

Site of Regional Importance (SRI) 118

Monte Labbro natural reserve Arcidosso town council Surrounding the mountain by the same name it reaches 1,190 meters a.s.l. It offers beautiful native vegetation and many rare animal species, amongst which the lanner. The flora is also abundant. On the peak, ruins of buildings dating back to the Davide Lazzaretti movement.

Site of Regional Importance (SRI) 118

Rocconi natural reserve Roccalbegna and Semproniano town councils. It spreads over the upper valley of Albegna with its spectacular gorges. It has an extraordinary amount of spontaneous orchid species and even rare birds of prey.

Site of Regional Importance (SRI) 118

Pescinello natural reserve Roccalbegna town council Right next to the mountain village, it reaches 800 meters a.s.l., has an extraordinary amount of animal and botanical species, brooks and gigantic trees.

Site of Regional Importance (SRI)118

Site of Regional Importance (SRI) 119

The Monte Amiata Fauna reserve Inside the reserve you will find a sort of wild park with fallow deer, mouflons and Apennine wolves.

Natural Reserve della Santissima Trinità della Selva Santa Fiora town council It’s next to the ancient convent S.S.

26

Trinità of Selva, renown for the rare presence of white fir and for the richness of the underwood.

Site of Regional Importance (SRI) 120

Monte Penna natural reserve Castell’Azzara town council A group of heights where mount Civitella stands out at 1107 meters a.s.l. Area geologically interesting for the caves and bats which inhabit them and the karstification phenomena. It offers many botanical and fauna species and millenary chestnut groves.

Poggio all’Olmo natural reserve Cinigiano town council Next to the Monticello Amiata town, it reaches 1,011 meters a.s.l. The botanic patrimony is extremely interesting, an ancient pear tree towers amongst chestnuts and beech woods and a fascinating legend is tied to it.

The Amiata Museum system was set up by the Comunità Montana Amiata of Grosseto to valorize the network of thematic and environmental facilities spread throughout its territory. The System is a territorial container whose special museum identity is represented by the tight relationship between the environment and landscape values and the anthropological and historical-artistic elements of Monte Amiata. The Amiata Museum system is part of the Maremma Museums, the museum network of the Grosseto province and is a useful tool to valorize smaller isolated cultural areas which characterize the Amiata territory.

For information: Comunita Montana Amiata Grossetano Tel. 056496961 Fax: 0564967093 sistemamusealeamiata@cm-amiata.gr.it APT Grosseto tel. 0564 462611 Fax: 0564 454606 info@lamaremma.info Castel del Piano tel. 0564 973510 fax: 05640973267 infocasteldelpiano@lamaremma.info Casa Museo of Monticello Amiata (Cinigiano) The museum spreads inside an ancient palace and the rooms accurately represent a late nineteenth century dwelling. The kitchen and the bedroom are the heart of the home, while on the floor below visitors can view the cattle shed, the warehouse and the old animal-hauled oil mill where work tools and agricultural equipment bare witness to ancient trades.

Santa Caterina Ethnographic Museum (Roccalbegna) The museum documents the work, traditions and ritualities tied to fire and trees in Monte Amiata and especially summarizes the Focarazza feast: ancient ritual to honor Santa Caterina d’Alessandria which is held each year on November 24th, the most important local feast for the entire community.

Wine and Vine Museum in Montenero d’Orcia - (Casteldelpiano) The museum covers the main themes tied to the typical production of the territory, with special reference to wine, oil and chestnuts. Amongst the items worthy of note, a “pigiava”: an oak wood press dating back to 1700, complete with a hull, levers and original grills, used to press grapes up until 1910.

Monte Amiata Mercury Mines Museum (Santa Fiora) The museum is housed in the ancient SforzaCesarini palace and documents the mining experience which strongly influenced the

Amiata region between the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. The exhibition itinerary, with special reference to the areas of Santa Fiora and Castell’Azzara, highlights and illustrates the production of mercury.

David Lazzaretti Research Center (Arcidosso) The Exhibition Center has been dedicated to David Lazzaretti (1834-1878), “Amiata’s Prophet” who acted on behalf of God to accomplish an important reformative mission. The social and religious life of Lazzaretti represents a utopian time of great evocative power and participation in the historical background of the Amiata mountain region and more generally speaking in the history of the lower classes of post-unitary Italy.

Palazzo Nerucci art collection (Casteldelpiano) On the aristocratic floor of the sixteenth century Palazzo Nerucci there is a significant group of works of art amongst which worthy of note are: the self portrait by Rosalba Carriera (1675-1757) and several canvases attributed to painters of the Nasini school. The same collection features a broad selection of the early works of maestro Edo Cei. Giardino d’arte Besides Art Montegiovi (Casteldelpiano) Secluded in the small village of Montegiovi, the garden reveals hidden sculptures surrounded by vegetation and propelled towards the sky like propitiatiory totems in metal, cement and stone. It blends in well with nature. Softly shaped figures furnish the atelier of sculptor Piero Bonacina.

Fauna Park Visitors Center (Arcidosso) It was born as an educational pole of the Fauna Park and of the six natural reserves of Monte Amiata. The Center unwinds through five halls set up with blow-ups, cartographies and mineral finds and its objective is to supply an overview of the Amiata Ecosystem stimulating the visitor to investigate the most interesting themes in-depth.

The path and galleries of Cornacchino (Castell’Azzara) The mine, which was part of a cinnabar field already known to Etruscans, was opened around 1877 and closed in 1919. The path departs from Quercia Gobba and crosses a forest, approx. 500 mt. along the Fosso del Cornacchino gorge to reach the two mining galleries today restored and known as the Galleria Ritorta.

The Garden of Daniel Spoerri (Seggiano) An outdoor contemporary art museum featuring the most important twentieth century artists. Information 0564 950457

27

28 C&P Adver