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The Voice of the AHLC
ON THE COVER: B onding Solutions from the Experts 27 The Basics of Bonding 28 Step-by-Step to Successful Bonding 30 The What, Why and How of Bonding? 32 Safety First
Features:
5 7 9 12 14 20 24 34
Hair Today, Payments Tomorrow When is it Time to Hire? LLLT and Skin Conditions on the Scalp Recognizing Skin Cancers My Personal Hair Loss Journey Northeast Educational Conference The Art of Hugging Insurance Claims: How to Help Clients Get Covered
In Every Issue: 4 Message From The AHLC Board 23 Welcome our New Members
Subscription Information:
for better bonding, see pages 27-33
Subscriptions to The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council are mailed FREE to members of the AHLC within the continental United States. International members are provided digital copies free. Please contact us for additional shipping rates if you are an AHLC member outside the US and wish to receive a printed edition. Non-member subscription price: $60 annually within the continental United States, $85 International. To become a member, renew your membership, or subscribe to The Link as a non-member, please contact Betty Ann Bugden, Membership Director, 570-462-1101 or log on to www.AHLC.org.
  Issue 16, Winter 2015 
3
The Voice of the AHLC
MESSAGE FROM THE AHLC BOARD INTRODUCING:
The AHLC Sponsored Membership Program The American Hair Loss Council recognizes the need to introduce new professionals to the hair replacement industry; those who can contribute passion, vision and creativity to our profession. After reviewing many ideas we made a decision to create the AHLC Sponsored Membership Program, a pilot program that we launched in Portland, Maine. This two year program is designed to help cosmetologists learn more about the causes and treatment of hair loss, with the goal of becoming an AHLC Certified Hair Replacement Specialist. After two years, sponsored members may become full AHLC members.
The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council is the official, quarterly publication of the American Hair Loss Council. For information on advertising or contributing to content, please contact us: The American Hair Loss Council 30 South Main, Shenandoah, PA 17976 615.721.8085 or info@ahlc.org
The Link Staff:
Managing Editor: Janine Thornhill Design and Layout: Thornhill Creative, www.thornhillcreative.com Creative Director: Terrell Thornhill
Thanks to Our Contributors: Jeanne Sheldon, President, Allusions Hair, Cincinnati, OH Doug Spike, Business Development Manager, IHI Tamim Hamid, Founder, Theradome Patti Wood WTS, Owner, Off 5th Salon, Bradenton, FL Nicole Staples, Owner, Madeline’s Hair Replacement, Saco, ME Amy Gibson, Founder and Chief Creative Officer, CreatedHair, Inc
In addition, this program allows licensed cosmetologists to attend our Annual Conference. Potential candidates are interviewed by an AHLC board member. Once this interview is complete, the sponsored member must complete the following: • Attend three AHLC approved, hands-on, educational workshops in the following areas - Men’s Hair Replacement, Women’s Hair Replacement, Extensions or Business Best Practices • Keep AHLC membership dues current
M E E T T H E A H LC B OA R D
• Attend two consecutive annual AHLC conferences
Bob Lukowski, Chemist, Lutech Inc., Advantage Adhesive Jay Benjamin, National Sales Manager, New Image Labs Gia Leffler, National Educator for HairVisions International and Hair Replacement Specialist Larry H. Oskin, President of Marketing Solutions and Art Beautique Ryan Margolin, EU Director, Global Digital Marketing, Professional Hair Labs Jonalee Schmidt, Owner, HRJ Hair Solutions, Lima, OH
AHLC Board of Directors:
Peggy Thornhill President Classic Designs HRC Hattiesburg, MS
Betty Ann Bugden Membership & Treasurer Bugden’s Total Image Shenandoah, PA
4 Issue 16, Winter 2015
Joseph Ellis Vice President Raleigh Hair Concepts Raleigh, NC
Laura Cole Secretary Abstrax Hair Designs Tom’s River, NJ
Susan Kettering Executive Director HRI of Pennsylvania Pittsburgh, PA
Marsha Scott Past President Hair Loss Clinic for Women Bethel, CT
Peggy Thornhill, President Joseph Ellis, Vice President Susan Kettering, Executive Director Betty Ann Bugden, Treasurer/Membership Director Laura Cole, Secretary Marsha Scott, Past President
The opinions expressed in The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the views of the American Hair Loss Council. The advertisements in The Link do not necessarily reflect the beliefs, opinions or attitudes of the AHLC and does not imply product or service endorsement. The American Hair Loss Council © All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Published for the AHLC by Thornhill Creative. www.thornhillcreative.com
The Voice of the AHLC
Hair Today, Payments Tomorrow Increase Your Revenue For many clients, financial concerns are an obstacle to getting an immediate solution to their hair loss. At Allusions, we offer the Citi Health Card to help our clients finance their hair prosthetic or hair restoration services. With Citi Health Card, you can offer flexible payment options. We have been using Citi Health Card for over 10 years to help clients start on a solution to their hair loss right away. It is easy to apply for and most of the time, the client will qualify to start their hair restoration or get their hair prosthetic immediately. by Jeanne Sheldon, President, Allusions Hair, Cincinnati
W
e’ve all had clients walk through our doors looking for an instant solution to t heir hair loss. It is extremely traumatic and emotional for those suffering from it. Hair loss can occur suddenly with chemotherapy, stress, alopecia, and other causes. A good quality hair prosthetic can be expensive and often unaffordable for many people. Many of our treatments are not covered by insurance and need to be paid out-of-pocket.
Citi Health Card is a no interest credit card, and allows purchases over $750 to be paid within 18 months. Interest will be charged to the customer if the balance is not paid within the 18 months or if payments are late. Minimum payments are required monthly. The application process is quick and easy. You will normally receive a decision within minutes. If you aren’t using some type of financing for your clients, I would highly recommend that you offer this choice.
Why should I offer financing if I already accept major credit cards? When financing options are available, clients usually choose more comprehensive treatments because they can spread payments over time.
increased by over 10% the first year that we offered financing and many of these people have stayed with us for over 10 years.
Benefits for your client: • Treatments or Hair Prosthesis can be purchased and started immediately • No down payment • Low monthly payments & no interest fees if payments are made timely • Card can be used for any member of the family
Benefits to the provider? • Focus stays on the client, let Citi Health Card collects the payments • Once the client is approved, and you submit the application to Citi Health Card, you normally get reimbursed within 3 days • Low merchant fees • No enrollment fees or special equipment needed • Often, the client will spend more money or upgrade to a better service if they can finance the cost over time • Less time, cost, and risk is incurred by you compared to funding your clients payments yourself • You can apply online or by phone
What is the real benefit of the Citi Health Card for my business?
For information, call 1-888-444-CITI or online at www.citicards.com/ cards/portal/healthcard/nsc/content. do?screenID=5000
Offering financing will attract people who may not be able to afford your services otherwise. At Allusions, our sales
All support, tools, and supplies are provided free.
How to get started: It’s easy, just call 866-352-5202 to request enrollment materials. When you enroll, you’ll receive comprehensive program information, including simple training guides and sales presentations for your clients. Complete training and support materials are also at your fingertips online. As an enrolled provider you have access to convenient online resources to use to help train new staff members or make the most of the program. Issue 16, Winter 201
5
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The Voice of the AHLC
When is it Time to Hire? Is your business appropriately staffed or is the need to hire additional employees hindering your growth? Consider if these points apply to your studio: by Doug Spike, IHI, Business Development Manager
W
ould you like to grow your business?” is a question I often ask hair replacement studio owners as part of my job. More often than not, the answer is an immediate “Yes!” That yes answer is easy to give, and it stands to reason that most business owners desire more clients and, in turn, more income. Growing a business is easier said than done. One of the keys to a successful growth plan is adequate staffing.
If any of the points listed on the right apply to your studio, it may be time to add staff. Adding technicians is an obvious answer. How about a sales consultant? A good salesperson can insure that no leads are overlooked and every possible prospect becomes a client. Maybe your business would benefit from hiring a receptionist or administrative help. In some cases, a part time assistant to run errands or work in the back room is all that’s needed. Every studio is different, and every studio owner needs to set their own goals for growth. Don’t let a lack of staff keep you from meeting yours!
YOU MAY NEED TO HIRE A NEW EMPLOYEE IF: There’s little time to work “on” your business because you spend so much time working “in” your business. Calls to your business are answered by a machine, not a person. Existing clients are frequently unable to get in for service on the days and times they desire. Monthly payments from program clients are missed. It is difficult to find time to make follow-up calls and emails to new leads, or worse yet, new leads are ignored. Your website and social media pages are not up-to-date. A walk-in consultation cannot be accommodated. Custom orders are delayed because they weren’t written and shipped to your supplier as soon as your client gave the go ahead. Or your custom orders are delayed because you are too busy to take calls with questions from your supplier. You are unable to attend the industry conferences and educational events that are so important in staying up to date and motivated. Advertising deadlines are missed, or you don’t promote at all because you are already “too busy”. You find yourself working longer and longer hours. You can’t remember the last time you took a “real” vacation. Issue 16, Winter 2015
7
! Y R T S U D N I E H T G N I M R O F TRANS
der is a e L t n e placem e R r i a The H
THE
2016 TRANSFORMATION EXPO Has our industry ever been in more need of fresh ideas?
Join industry leaders from a variety of backgrounds and expertise as they identify opportunities and challenge current business models in today’s fast changing world.
Are new products and services essential to transform your business? Learn how Hair Visions International is turning today’s trends into tomorrow’s successful products and services to improve your business.
Hair Visions International is one of the largest distributors of men’s and women’s hair replacement products and services in the world. As Hair Visions International continues to grow, so has the
Native and digital advertising transforms business! Do you know how?
By doing business in a digital world, Hair Visions International will introduce you to pragmatic advertising technology to drive consumer engagement to your studio.
Same thinking means the same results. Are you satisfied with your results?
Hair Visions International is rethinking change. We’re focused on what’s next for your business, giving you more reasons to make your reservation for attending the 2016 Transformation Expo.
Join us as we transform the industry on Sunday, March 6 to Tuesday, March 8 at the beautiful Fort Lauderdale Beach Resort
variety and depth of our training, education, workshops and conferences. We don’t just sell products to the hair replacement industry; we create futures for our clients by providing them with product, consumer materials, sales and business strategies, comprehensive marketing programs with total support and education.
We’re with you every step of the way.
Save $50 off the entrance fee when you reserve your seat at the 2016 Transformation Expo before December 31 For more info, visit: www.bit.ly/hvi2016expo
CALL 800‑327‑5555 Hair Visions International
5130 N State Road 7 • Ft. Lauderdale, FL 33319 800-327-5555 • www.HairVisionsIntl.com
The Voice of the AHLC
Laser Light Therapy and Skin Conditions on the Scalp The application of low-level lasers in the field of medicine for the treatment of inflammation, pain and the rapid wound healing has grown quickly since the invention of the laser in 1960. With 6,000 scientific articles published on PubMed and over 130 randomized clinical trials, there is today more documentation on Low-Level Laser Therapy (LLLT) than various other traditional treatments. by Tamim Hamid, Founder, Theradome
How Does Low-Level Laser Therapy Help Treat Scalp Conditions? Skin, particularly, responds positively to red and near-infrared wavelengths, possibly making numerous scalp conditions ideal for LLLT, such as psoriasis, seborrhea dermatitis (scalp eczema), contact dermatitis and types of fungus, such as ringworm. These conditions are usually present in the majority of hair loss individuals with a varying degree of severity.
Scalp Psoriasis About 7.5 million Americans are diagnosed with psoriasis and half of these individuals experience its symptoms on the scalp. Symptoms include scaly patches that are often reddish and raised, and can spread to close-by areas such as behind the ears, the back of the neck and the forehead. Scalp psoriasis is not contagious; while its causes are still unknown, as in the case for most scalp conditions, some doctors believe that a glitch in the immune system possibly causes skin cells to grow at an accelerated rate, resulting in scaly patches. However the subject is still debated. While all cases of scalp psoriasis are tied to inflammatory conditions, some are particularly interlaced, as seen in patients who rid themselves of psoriasis and dandruff by shaving their hair.
The severity of scalp psoriasis varies as it can be almost unnoticeable, but more serious cases can result in thick, itching crusts, which can prompt individuals to scratch for relief. Excessive scratching can lead to flaking, soreness, skin infections and even hair loss.
Scalp Eczema/Seborrhoeic Dermatitis Humans have what is called sebaceous glands on their scalp, which secrete an oily type of viscous matter referred to as sebum. These sebaceous glands help the scalp maintain a healthy balance of moisture and also act as an anti-bacterial. Seborrheic dermatitis (also known as scalp eczema) is a condition where an overproduction of sebum results in an oily scalp and greasy hair. While a mild case of seborrheic dermatitis can be seen as simply unattractive with excessive dandruff and oil, more severe cases include symptoms that escalate to intense scalp itching, resulting in skincolored patches with yellowish scales. A type of fungus called Malassezia furfur (originally known as Pityrosporum ovale) is thought to be responsible for seborrheic dermatitis. Just like any microbe, Malassezia furfur lives on the skin but with a higher population on the scalp.
With climate changes and the ideal, humid conditions brought on by sweat, the growth of Malassezia furfur can quickly spiral out of control. Dandruff, for instance, is a type of seborrheic dermatitis, which causes mild scaling, redness, and itching of the scalp. More serious cases result in inflammation and extreme levels of oiliness, scaly patches and itchiness of the scalp, all of which can exacerbate the condition. Not all itchiness of the scalp is caused by seborrheic dermatitis; another type of dermatitis, contact dermatitis, can be brought on by simple contact with allergens, such as certain soaps and shampoos. Many individuals are allergic to sulfates. One can easily tell the difference between these two types of dermatitis since symptoms of irritation with contact dermatitis appear instantaneously.
Ringworm Unlike the above scalp conditions, ringworm (clinically called tinea capitis) is extremely contagious. This type of condition, unlike its name suggests, is not a worm but in fact a fungus that spreads with a ring-like, circular pattern on the scalp. There are a number of fungi species, referred to as dermatophytes, responsible for ringworm. As dermatophytes attack the outer layer of scalp skin, a fungal infection of both the continued...   Issue 16, Winter 2015  9
The Voice of the AHLC continued... scalp and hair shafts results, manifesting itself as bald, scaly patches on the head. Scalp areas are often tender with brittle hair and patches slowly become larger. Severe cases can result in extreme inflammation and cause scarring and/or permanent hair loss. Fungus in general has been clinically proven to cause inflammatory responses and resides between the epidermis and dermis junctions of the scalp. Most individuals’ scalps are in fact populated by fungus without their knowledge. A certain percentage of the population, however, is allergic to certain species of fungi and experiences its ill side effects, meaning inflammation and hair loss.
Traditional Treatments and Limitations The common denominator in the above scalp conditions is inflammation. If left untreated, serious infections, which can lead to tenderness, crusting and even swelling of the lymph system, along with hair loss can result. Traditional treatments for scalp conditions all have limitations and unwanted side effects. Over-the-Counter (OTC) topicals are usually recommended to remove persistent flakes and scales on the scalp that result from psoriasis and seborrheic dermatitis. Ingredients such as lactic acid, zinc pyrithione, selenium sulfite and coal tar come in various shampoos, solutions and foams and are directly applied to the scalp. Some of these can have adverse side effects, such as increased irritation, thus leading to more dandruff, while others cannot be used daily due to dangerous levels of toxicity. Some medications include topical formulas with potent ingredients that can produce serious side effects such as allergic reactions and burning and rashes on the scalp. More extreme measures involve intralesional steroid injections into affected areas that can cause folliculitis, mental changes, serious allergic reactions, a weakened immune system, dizziness, heartbeat irregularity, as well as many more.
10 Issue 16, Winter 2015
Low-Level Laser Therapy is a rapidly growing field that offers compelling benefits in various medical fields, including dermatology, with no serious adverse effects.
Ringworm and fungi are treated with anti-fungal topical medications to minimize the infection, which contain powerful synthetic ingredients such as climbazole, ketoconazole and miconazole. Oral medication can also be taken, including azoles, allylamines and griseofulvin. Side effects range from irritation and burning, allergic reactions, hair loss, heart problems, and can even cause severe hepatotoxicity (liver disease) if one is not careful.
Low-Level Laser Therapy in Medicine The first case of using light to treat a medical condition (lupus vulgaris in this case) dates back to 1903 with the work of Dr. Niels Ryberg Finsen, a Danish physician and scientist. His pioneering work on the treatment of disease with concentrated light radiation won him the Nobel Prize in Medicine and Physiology that same year. It wasn’t until 1965, however, that the first study of LLLT was published by a Hungarian physician named Dr. Endre Mester. While irradiating shaven mice with low-level lasers (at energies much lower than hot, surgical
lasers), he realized that the fur of the exposed mice was growing back more quickly then the control group of the experiment. All diseases are at their core some type of inflammation; LLLT is proven, amongst other things, to decrease inflammation (see below). Since the same cell structure is present throughout the entire human body, LLLT is effective for treating a plethora of medical conditions, such as gingivitis, nerve injuries, epicondylitus, and hair loss, just to name a few. Included in this long list is cutting edge LLLT designed to treat and alleviate skin and scalp conditions. As mentioned earlier, skin exhibits an impressive response to red and nearinfrared wavelengths. It has become rare to visit a dermatological practice that does not offer some type of LLLT treatment that can reduce the appearance of scars, pigmentation, wrinkles or treats nail fungus. Due to the absence of side effects and its non-invasive nature, LLLT has become extremely appealing in the fields of dermatology and trichology for treating skin and scalp conditions.
The Voice of the AHLC
How Does LLLT Work? The field of LLLT is, needless to say, very complex and the development of its practice has involved experts in physics, cell biology, medicine and scientific methodology. In simple terms, human tissue is irradiated with photons (quantized bundles of light energy), which are absorbed by weak cells. With this extra energy, cells can then return to a normal, healthy state and resume their role within the human body. Just like the photosynthesis of a plant, stimulating human tissue with low energy densities increases the production of energy in the mitochondria of cells. This induces the release of nitric oxide– not to be confused with nitrous oxide, the laughing gas inhaled at the dentist– into cells and triggers healing, as well as optimizes blood flow, energy transport, and activates stem cells for healing and tissue repair. The human body is thus left with enhanced capabilities to repair any damage (such as scalp wounds, scabs, plaques, scales) and reduce swelling and inflammation, which also prevents the recurrence of symptoms. Due to an increase in the production of endorphins and cortisol, pain from these symptoms can also be reduced. The production of sebum by the sebaceous glands is closely tied to scalp health. Low-Level Laser Therapy has the ability to normalize scalp conditions by balancing the production of sebum, which is crucial for the maintenance of scalp and hair health. An overproduction of sebum leads to oil excess, which can be normalized by LLLT; on the other hand, an excessively dry scalp is the result of an underproduction of sebum. In the latter case, LLLT excites the sebaceous glands in order to restore a normal production of sebum. As laser light stimulates the mitochondria of cells, inflammation associated with all hair follicle functions (oil, sweat, hair growth) is thus treated. Over time, the creation of energy from LLLT will result in healthy cells within the lymph system, an increase of
protein (which forms human tissue), the optimization of blood flow to injured areas, such as the scalp, all resulting in a significant reduction of inflammation.
Low-Level Laser Therapy for Scalp Conditions Successful LLLT studies have been reported for the treatment of various dermatological conditions including shingles, eczema, psoriasis, acne, acne rosacea and herpes. Eczema, particularly, has shown significant improvement with LLLT performed by dermatologists. With their ability to greatly reduce inflammation and stimulate an accelerated healing process, low-level lasers are ideal for treating scalp conditions such as scalp psoriasis and seborrheic dermatitis. Since treatment areas must be exposed to laser light in order to receive adequate energy, individuals suffering from scalp conditions should maximize scalp exposure by combing damp hair back and using a wearable LLLT device for at least 20 minutes. Treatment frequency should vary based on the degree of a scalp condition. However, no significant results will be obtained by undergoing LLLT treatments sparingly. One must commit to long-term and frequent usage for the cumulative improvement of any inflammatory condition. For this reason, it is best to invest in an affordable, convenient LLLT scalp device designed for home use. It must be noted that while LLLT can reduce inflammation arising from any type of fungus allergy, the use of proper anti-fungus agents will be needed to rid the scalp of all fungus loads. To minimize possible harmful side effects, individuals should first try natural anti-fungal solutions and avoid toxic ingredients, such as sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS), parabens (esters of para-hydroxybenzoic acid), sulfates, diethanolamine (DEA), glycols, dimethylsulfoxide (DMSO), and other harsh chemicals.
How to Choose an Optimal LLLT Device There are many devices out on the market today that claim to deliver the
best LLLT treatments; however, many contraptions are riddled with false claims. Here are a few guidelines for purchasing a legit medical device that will deliver clinical strength results.
Always ensure an LLLT device: • Is engineered with true lasers as opposed to Light-Emitting Diodes (LEDs); these lose 92% of their output power as light propagates • is constructed with individual laser diodes; some inexpensive gadgets use fiber optics to split a single diode into multiple beams • Delivers an optimal dosage of energy to treatment areas; this usually requires about 20 minutes of treatment time • Is FDA-cleared for safety and efficacy • Can be worn continuously on the head for 20 minutes with maximum scalp coverage for the entire duration of treatment; any lesser period of time will be ineffective • Does not generate heat; this can be harmful to the scalp and also reduces the power output of the device • Does not have an exorbitant amount of lasers to avoid heat generation; about 80 individual laser diodes is an optimum number • Is cordless and operates hands-free for convenience Low-Level Laser Therapy is a rapidly growing field that offers compelling benefits in various medical fields, including dermatology, with no serious adverse effects. As a non-invasive, natural therapy, LLLT offers the possibility of avoiding the possible harmful repercussions of using pharmaceuticals and potent chemicals to treat inflammatory conditions such as scalp psoriasis, scalp eczema, and other types of dermatitis. Not only can LLLT eradicate symptoms of these conditions in the short term, but long-term applications exhibit healing properties that eliminate the probability of reoccurrence while strengthening cell and tissue structure. Today, optimal and scientifically-engineered LLLT devices for home use can allow individuals to self-treat their scalp conditions at home as an easy, comfortable and low-cost alternative to expensive medical clinics. Issue 16, Winter 2015
11
The Voice of the AHLC
Recognizing Skin Cancers Melanoma is the most dangerous form of skin cancer. If it spreads (metastasizes) to the internal organs, it can be life-threatening. But in its early stages, it is almost 100 percent curable. Fortunately, melanoma rarely strikes without warning. There are almost always signs that danger is lurking. Watch for them on yourself and on your clients, because when melanoma is found early, it is almost always curable. by Patti Wood, WTS, Owner, Off 5th Avenue Salon,
G
rowing up in Florida and being outside all time did a lot of damage to my skin. I have lived in Florida for over 40 years. I can still remember using baby oil and laying on those silver blankets to get a better tan. My grandfather built a swimming pool for the grand kids so at a very young age I was outside all the time. We also had boats when I was small and as an adult. Back then no one talked about sun screen. I don’t recall even seeing sunscreen. I do remember the build boards on the road advertising Coppertone tanning oil and the dog pulling down this little girls bathing suit to show off her tan line. Thinking about that today is just weird.
As a child I would get sun poisoning so bad that I would rub up and down on the ruff walls in the house because it itched so bad. My chest and shoulder always got it the worst. Needless to say that is where most of my skin cancers are. I have had my fair share of basil cell and squamous cell carcinomas removed. I was at the plastic surgeons office for laser hair removal treatment, I showed the technician the dark spot on the front of my shoulder. She said, “Oh, my laser can get rid of that.” She zapped it hard a few times, but It never went away. It actually got a little bigger. Last year during my annual exam the nurse practitioner saw a dark spot which turned out to be Melanoma. Since it was an early detection it was removed. Sixty stitches later, I was cancer free. I was seen once a year. Now I go every 6 months for a body scan. I think back and wonder if it had gone away and wasn’t detected it could
12 Issue 16, Winter 2015
have easily gone into stage 4 melanoma. This just proves to me that there is a lot of people that do laser work and other cosmetic services that don’t know how to detect shin cancer. It is up to each person to watch for unusual skin problem. There isn’t a day that goes by even if it cloudy that I don’t use sunscreen before walking out the door. It’s like lotion, I use 30 SPF every day. Most recently, in a rigorous study of more than 1,600 adults over the course of a decade, researchers determined that subjects applying sunscreen with an SPF of 16 daily reduced their risk of melanoma by 50 percent. Skin cancer is quite prevalent in Florida. I see a lot of skin cancers on my clients especially men that work outside. It usually appears on the ears, back of the neck and the top of the head. Skin conditions on the scalp can be harder to detect because it is often covered by the hair. Because of this, it is even more important for us as cosmetologists, trichologist and hair replacement experts to be diligent and learn to recognize all types skin cancers. Whenever I see any spot I bring it to the clients attention and ask if they are aware that it is there and how long it’s been there. I ask if they have seen a doctor. If they haven’t seek medical attention and recommended they see their dermatologist. It is surprising that some clients have never seen a dermatologist. It can be challenging in my area of Florida to find one that accepts new patients or can see you in a timely matter. Most often these obstacles can make the client give up and not think it’s important enough. I keep good
records on my clients so I look at my notes and see that we discussed the area on the last appointment. If they have not followed though I again explain how crucial it is to make that appointment. Skin cancer is an abnormal growth of skin cells. It most often develops on areas of the skin exposed to the sun’s rays. Skin cancer affects people of all colors and races, although those with light skin who sunburn easily have a higher risk. The Skin Cancer Foundation recommends that everyone practice monthly headto-toe self-examination of their skin, so that they can find any new or changing lesions that might be cancerous or precancerous. Skin cancers found and removed early are almost always curable. Learn the warnings signs of skin cancer and what to look for during selfexamination, and how to identify suspicious spots on your client’s skin.
FOR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT The Skin Cancer Foundation provides public education, early detection programs, medical seminars, and groundbreaking research.
SkinCancer.org | (212) 725-5176 149 Madison Ave., Suite 901 New York, NY 10016
The Voice of the AHLC
The ABCDEs of Detecting Melanoma A stands for ASYMMETRY B stands for BORDER irregularity C for COLOR variations D for DIAMETER greater than 1/4 inch E for EVOLVING or changing
BENIGN
Learn these signs, and if you see any of them, schedule a visit to your doctor right away. But remember: These signs are not proof of melanoma. They only mean that you should be on your guard. The photos below compare benign (harmless) moles and malignant ones (melanomas), according to the melanoma alphabet.
MALIGNANT
ASYMMETRY
ncer. If can be percent arning. Watch almost
If you draw a line through this mole, the two halves will not match, meaning it is asymmetrical, a warning sign for melanoma.
This benign mole is not asymmetrical. If you draw a line through the middle, the two sides will match, meaning it is symmetrical.
BORDER
usually s more risk for e existy it’s so ine the hysician
The borders of an early melanoma tend to be uneven. The edges may be scalloped or notched.
A benign mole has smooth, even borders, unlike the one on the opposite page.
COLOR
he early
Having a variety of colors is another warning signal. A number of different shades of brown, tan or black could appear. A melanoma may also become red, white or blue.
Most benign moles are all one color— often a single shade of brown.
DIAMETER
Melanomas usually are larger in diameter than the size of the eraser on your pencil (¼ inch or 6mm), but they may sometimes be smaller when first detected.
Benign moles usually have a smaller diameter than malignant ones.
e a visit are not be on
benign cording
E
EVOLVING
When a mole is evolving, see a doctor. Any change—in size, shape, color, elevation, or another trait, or any new symptom such as bleeding, itching or crusting—points to danger.
Common, benign moles look the same over time. Be on the alert when a mole starts to evolve or change in any way.
The ABCDEs of Melanoma, provided by The Skin Cancer Foundation, SkinCancer.org Issue 16, Winter 2015
13
The Voice of the AHLC
My Personal Hair Loss Journey by Nicole Staples, Owner, Madeline’s Hair Replacement, Saco, ME
Nicole has a unique and wonderful story. She experienced Alopecia Universalis while a college student. Her journey has taken her from a degree in business to owning her own hair replacement studio. Right Inset: Nicole,before experiencing hair loss
I
often get asked how I got involved in the hair replacement industry. It’s a story that starts back when I was a 21-year-old college student finishing out a summer break. I was young and carefree enjoying the summer and the start of my twenties. One day my mother noticed a small round patch about the size of a dime on my temple. I had so much hair it was hard to see but as I pulled my hair back in that area I noticed a small perfectly round area of hair loss. Confused and a bit alarmed, I took to the Internet. I searched, “round patch of hair loss.” I was bombarded with a term I had never heard before, alopecia. I remember thinking, “alo-what?” I had never heard of alopecia before. As I read further I discovered that small patches of hair loss could lead to more patches of hair loss or even in some cases, complete hair loss. Reading those words made me feel sick. I had grown up as the girl with a ton of hair. My mother use to always say, “You have enough hair for ten people.” My hair was a huge part of who I was and a big part of my self-esteem. I remembered thinking as I pushed myself away from my computer screen, “I will die if I lose my hair. There is no way that could to happen to me.”
14 Issue 16, Winter 2015
Over the next three months that is exactly what started happening to me. I started seeing more round patches of hair loss, and my eyelashes and eyebrows started thinning. I immediately started seeing a dermatologist and tried every treatment he could come up with. I used creams and ointments, wore shower caps to bed, did detox diets, steroids, homeopathic injections, medications and multiple therapies. Nothing seemed to stop the hair loss. I was willing to try anything. I probably would have walked around with cow manure on my head if that had grown my hair back! After not having had any real regrowth with the treatments we tried, my dermatologist referred me to another dermatologist at Lahey Clinic in Boston. He said, “If anyone will know the answer, it will be him!” I went to the appointment full of hope, I never once let myself believe my hair wasn’t going to come back, so in my mind this doctor was going to be the key to getting my hair to stop falling out and grow back. The dermatologist he was very nice, and clearly very intelligent. He took his time examining my hair loss and then
sat me down. He looked me in the eye and said, “Kiddo, my best advice is to get a really good wig.” For the first time since my hair loss started I allowed myself to cry. I cried harder than I have ever cried in my whole life. I was devastated. He was my last hope and in one sentence that hope had been destroyed. But I needed to hear it. I needed to come to terms with my hair loss. He told me my hair loss was caused by a condition called alopecia universalis and that most likely I would experience complete hair loss. What little hair I had left would fall out and there weren’t any treatments that could bring it back. After I got over the shock, I realized he was right, and my focus shifted to finding a wig. My first experience with shopping for a wig was nothing short of a nightmare. I went to a local wig shop with high hopes that were quickly destroyed. The woman I met with had a job: To sell me a wig. There was no talking about my hair or what I was looking for, we just went straight into putting wigs on my head. There was a large closet full of what looked like shoe boxes which she chose from. She randomly pulled out wigs and placed them on my head. With each continued...
The Voice of the AHLC
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16 Issue 16, Winter 2015
The Voice of the AHLC
continued... wig she put on I remember thinking, “I look like Hillary Clinton” and as a girl in my twenties I certainly wasn’t going for that look. All the styles were for an older woman. I started getting the impression that I wasn’t going to find a wig that was like my hair and needed to adjust my expectations. It was not a good experience and I walked away feeling defeated. After that appointment I told my boyfriend of four years to move on. I told him I would never be able to look like myself again, and therefore could never truly be myself. I no longer wanted the things we planned for. I no longer wanted to get married or have children, as I would never feel like myself again. It was a devastating realization but one I felt was truly my new existence. Luckily my boyfriend, now husband, did not head my advice and instead became my rock through what at times was a very hard journey. I ended up ordering a wig through that wig shop from a catalog. I ordered it and picked it up a couple weeks later. The wig did not look like my hair but it was at least more youthful than the systems I had tired at my previous visit. I left with the hair but I wasn’t given any information about the type of hair it was or how to care for it. At the time, I was in college and working as a server at a restaurant. I went to work that night with my wig on in pigtails under a hat. It was the only way I felt comfortable. Half way through my shift I went into the kitchen with another waitress and suddenly felt a warmth breeze go up the side of my neck. The girl next to me looked at me eyes wide open in shock and said, “Your ponytail is gone!” I immediately ran to the bathroom where I realized to my horror that one of my pigtails had melted right up to the elastic. I was so embarrassed and upset but I finished my shift. The next day I spoke to a woman at the wig store. She told me my system was synthetic, could not be exposed to
heat and that it would cost $300.00 to fix it. Discouraged I went to work that night in my singed wig now in a side ponytail to try and camouflage the damage. When I got to work a girl that worked in the kitchen pulled me aside and told me about her grandmother who did hair systems. She said they were very natural looking and I should give her call. I truly believe that was fate stepping in and pointing me in the right direction.
to be a part of the hair replacement industry! I had just finished up getting my business degree, started apprenticing at Madeline’s and got my cosmetology license. Being a girl who had always loved hair and was always doing something to my own, it came very naturally to me. I loved working with hair but more importantly, I LOVED helping people through their hair loss journey.
I learned what a blessing it is to have the opportunity to help other people by being able to relate to what they are going through and offer them a solution to help them feel like themselves again. People who have not experienced hair loss, will often say things like, “It’s just hair, don’t worry about it,” to try to comfort their loved one. They mean well but when you’re the one experiencing hair loss it doesn’t feel like “just hair.” Being able to understand that, express that to others, and Nicole and her family give them hope has been so rewarding for me. When I lost my hair I remembered thinking, “Why, why is this happening to I went to see Madeline, the founder me? What have I done to deserve this?” of Madeline’s Hair Replacement, and Now, I truly believe that I lost my hair so had a completely different experience! that I could help others and continue on During my consultation we started with with Madeline’s legacy. When I lost my just that - a consultation. She asked hair, one of the hardest parts was feeling me about my hair, asked to see photos so alone in it. Not knowing anyone who and most importantly, listened to me. could relate to how terrible it feels to She took measurements and tried on a lose not only your hair, but also a part couple of bases. We looked at color rings of yourself. I am so honored to be the and made decisions together. I cried, I person who understands those feelings laughed and I walked away feeling truly and be a resource for others. hopeful for the first time since I started this hair loss journey. The hair replacement industry truly gave me my life back and a great sense Picking up my hair was also a very of purpose in my life. I am forever gratedifferent experience. I didn’t simply pick ful each day that I have a hair system that up my hair. It was put on my head, cut looks so natural and helps me feel like a and styled. I was also taught how to care for the hair. It felt so good to have hair on whole person. I have been able to take my head. When I saw myself in the mirror a tragic experience in my life and turn it into a way to help others and I am forI nearly fainted. I saw myself again, me, ever grateful for that opportunity. I now my reflection looking back at me. It was live a very complete and fulfilling life and such an amazing experience! have the hair replacement industry to thank for it! It wasn’t long before I realized I had Issue 16, Winter 2015
17
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The Voice of the AHLC
Reaching Out to the Next Generation of Hair Replacement Specialists THE NORTHEAST EDUCATIONAL CONFERENCE It is a goal of the AHLC to continue to provide information and training to hair stylists through educational training. As we work together to provide this much-needed outreach to dedicated cosmetologists, our efforts will continue to go a long way toward bringing the next group of professionals to their maximum potential. by Susan Kettering, AHLC Executive Director
Photos provided by Larry H. Oskin, President of Marketing Solutions and Art Beautique
O
I had the pleasure of teaching Hair Replacement 101. Over a two-day educational class the forty-two stylists who attended were most enthusiastic and eager to learn various techniques.
The mock consultation began with Grant talking to “the client” about his thinning hair and the possible causes and solutions might be. He gave a 10 minute overview on different types of alopecia, and how causes for men and women can be MUCH different. He explained what causes the majority of hair loss in both and what laser combined with DHT blocking products can do for hair loss. He introduced the group to laser therapy and to various products and explained how they work.
Since Grant was also representing HairMax, so we began the class with a mock consultation. Dale Aho from DiBiase Hair USA was kind enough to be the model and potential client.
For clients who decide to wear, hair we demonstrated how to make a custom template and discussed what would create the perfect hairstyle by choosing the correct type of base and attachment.
n October 4-5th, in Portland, Maine, we represented the AHLC at Carabito’s Northeast Educational Conference. Terrell and Janine Thornhill, Creative Director and Editor of the Link Magazine, Grant Gunderson, advisor to the Board and I represented the AHLC at the event.
20 Issue 16, Winter 2015
We demonstrated how to recreate a front hair line, the position of the part and crown and most importantly, the correct facial balance. Many of the stylists had driven more than three hours to attend our session on hair replacement. Many in the group were eagar to start offering hair replacement services and just didn’t know how to get started. Some had even sent their clients to other salons just because they didn’t know how to deal with hair loss situations. I saw a group of creative, caring artists who wanted nothing more than to help their clients. And the AHLC, along with our vendors and manufacturer-members is absolutely the best resource to help them succeed.
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The Voice of the AHLC
Welcome New Members!
To become a member or renew contact Betty Ann Bugden, Membership Director, 570-462-1101 or log on to AHLC.org.
Frances Israel FranC Wigs, Vero Beach, FL Fran is a licensed cosmetologist and has spent 40 years in the beauty industry including owning and operating her own full service salon. She has taken many advanced courses in wig and hair styling and has trained under various New York wig experts. Fran has also experienced hair loss and has been wearing wigs or partial wigs for nearly 20 years. Her education, experience, ethics, kindness, and creative nature allows for a wonderful experience during a difficult time. Recently FranC relocated to Vero Beach from a cancer center in Michigan. She is looking forward to learning more as a member of AHLC
Nina M. Miller Nu/Hart Hair, Johnstown PA Shortly after I received my cosmetologist and teaching license I was fortunate enough to be hired at a hair replacement salon. I was offered extensive training and the chance to really develop my skills. After 18 years I decided it was time to achieve my goal and I jumped into the role of salon owner with both feet. That was 12 years ago and I have loved every minute of it. My staff and I continue our education regularly and stay up to date on the latest advancements in hair replacement. At my salon we make certain to provide a caring atmosphere and high quality work for all of our clients. I consider it an honor and a privilege to be able to develop long lasting relationships with our clients and help change their lives for the better. I love the day a new client walks in my door and you can see how nervous and upset they are, but when they leave it’s a total transformation. To be able to help rebuild their self-confidence is an amazing feeling!
Nicole Staples Madeline’s Hair Replacement, Saco, ME Nicole is the owner and lead hair replacement specialist at Madeline’s Hair Replacement. Madeline’s has been helping those with hair loss since 1966, and over that time has established itself as Maine’s most trusted and recommended hair replacement resource. A Maine native, Nicole lives in Saco with her husband and two children. Nicole graduated with honors from University of Southern Maine with a degree in Business Administration, and is a licensed cosmetologist. She first became involved with Madeline’s as a client after losing all her hair at the age of 21 due to alopecia universalis. Her personal experience with hair loss and the day-to-day wearing of a hair system really helps Nicole relate to her clients
who are often surprised and comforted in knowing she is wearing a hair system as well. It is always Nicole and her team’s goal to help their clients regain their self-esteem and help them feel like themselves again! The team at Madeline’s feels so blessed to help those experiencing hair loss, and are inspired and fulfilled by the work they do for their clients.
Barbara Strubel Artful Designs Hair Care and Art, Southwest Harbor, ME Barbara takes pride in giving personalized attention to her clients and dedicates herself to customer satisfaction. The salon is a bright, airy, inviting space where clients feel cared for. Large windows let in lots of natural light and open up to a soothing view. “I want my clients to feel good while they are here. I want them to know they are listened to,” Barbara says. She also adds personal touches like fresh flowers, tea and coffee, cookies and candies all to make her clients comfortable. As an experienced professional, she stays current with the latest styles, tools and techniques. She began her career as a hairdresser in 1972 and opened the salon in Southwest Harbor in 1984. As Artful Design grows, Barbara is looking forward to taking Artful Designs to the next level. Currently, Barbara is focusing on hair replacement and is pleased to be a member of The AHLC. Barbara volunteers for Alström Syndrome International. She also enjoys oil painting and you’ll see her artwork displayed at the salon. “Art gives me another way to be creative and expressive,” she says.
The following Member’s Information Unavailable at Time of Publication: • Katie Aigner, Kuts, Evansville, IN • Rhea Bianco, Celebration Salon, Alamo, CA • Steven Dreyfuss, Natural Image, Garden City, NY • Belinda Dust, Womans Place, Downers Grove, IL • Corbin Grinege, Corbin Salon, Baltimore, MD • Yvette and Dennis Hammond, South Coast Hair Options, New Bedford, MA • Kathleen Hendrickson, Wigs ’n More, Latrobe, PA • Sima Hilde, New Look Institute, San Jose’, CA • Gia Leffler, Dino’s, Ft. Lauderdale, FL • Scott McCarty, Shearpointe, Birmingham, MI • Lisa McFadden, Kirklands, Jackson, MS • Tonya Norwood , Modern Enhancement Salon & Day Spa, Raleigh, NC • Patti Paull, Avenue Hair Design, Venice, FL • Michelle Rae, Primp, Wayzata, MN • Donecia Sullivan, Hair & Beauty Treatment Center, LLC, Augusta, GA • Wendy Taylor, Advance Techniques, Richmond, VA • Lori Younkman, Custom Hair, Tampa, FL • Scott Voboril, Aavant-garde, Framingham, MA Issue 16, Winter 2015
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The Voice of the AHLC
The Art of Hugging by Amy Gibson, Founder and Chief Creative Officer, CreatedHair, Inc.
What is more wonderful than a big, gorgeous, yummy hug? However, for most wig wearers, this can present a challenge. Especially if they’re trying to hide their secret and keep their discretion. So how do we make wigs work in their life - naturally? In Sex, Wigs & Whispers, you are guided through all the situations that can possibly come up in life while wearing wigs. Using the step by step processes provided in the book, you can share with your client simple solutions to give them the best chance to assure that they receive the safest outcome - and peace of mind. You already spend endless hours getting the client in the door, making them comfortable and providing them with a beautiful solution you believe is correct for them. Now, give them some ideas and techniques to help this wig process work in their life so it becomes effortless and 'second nature.' With this knowledge, they are less likely to be hindered on any level in truly living their life like any other women with hair, while wearing the system you have so lovingly created.
24 Issue 16, Winter 2015
Excerpt from: Sex, Wigs & Whispers Love and Life with Hair Loss
Different Types of Hugs The good ‘ole family hug is the kind where someone takes you in their arms and gives you a strong Bear Hold that you couldn’t break free from to save your life. Generally, you’ll find that this person is unaware that they’re pulling your hair off, which in your case, might mean literally. Then there’s the OOOOOH hug – the one that goes on forever that you want to relax into... Instead, you cringe; scared this person is going to touch your hair. Or worse yet – take your hair with them! Relax – I know it’s the last thing you’re comfortable doing right now. But do it anyway, because the calmer you are in these moments the more success you will have. TIP: In both these examples, if you find that someone is hugging you and they
begin to sway – sway with them. If your hair is tangled in his arm – go with it, and gently offer with a smile, “OOPS! You got my hair!” and laugh it off. If they begin to rub your head lovingly or abruptly, try, “Oh not my hair honey! I just got it done.’” Men usually make a crack or two, in an attempt to be funny. The truth is that men get a little uncomfortable around hair issues, and just don’t know what to say, so they laugh. Remember what I’ve said before; continue on as if nothing happened. If you know you’re going to be in the environment of several hugs, it helps to lightly braid your hair to one side. This lessons the chance of your hair getting caught in someone else’s arm pit! Help your clients always be in control. You can find more tips in Sex, Wigs & Whispers, available at amazon.com Please contact me with any questions at: book@CreatedHair.com.
The Voice of the AHLC
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CHOSEN BY INDUSTRY LEADERS Designed by a NASA scientist, and engineered and made in the U.S., the FDA-cleared Theradome LH80 PRO stands in a class of its own: four out of five hair rejuvenation experts recommend its use in a multitude of premium hair clinics and salons around the globe.
Become a Theradome™ Reseller Earn THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS each month! Start selling high-tech, innovative products to your clients by becoming a Theradome reseller and MAXIMIZE YOUR INCOME today! Visit us online at www.theradome.com/reseller to learn more and call us at 925-956-4777 with offer code THELINK to receive a great deal on your first purchase!
The Theradome™ LH80 PRO is an over-the-counter (OTC) device FDA-cleared for the treatment of androgenetic alopecia that promotes hair growth in women with female pattern hair loss (FPHL) on the Ludwig and Savin Hair Loss Scale I-II with Fitzpratick Skin Types I-IV.
The Voice of the AHLC
Back to Basics: Bonding Essentials Our system of preparing the scalp, cleaning the unit and adhering the unit is water based with unique properties that resist oils and dirt. by Bob Lukowski, Chemist, Lutech Inc., Advantage Adhesive
T
he bonding and removal of hair units and hair pieces can be a complicated process.
It is so because of the variety of base materials and especially the human reaction to adhesives used to fix these to the scalp. Water based, pressure sensitive adhesives are the better choice for most individuals in this use. It is also considered the safest type of adhesive. Pressure sensitive adhesives bond to almost any surface, but rely on large area coverage to obtain adequate strength. They also require contact pressure to be applied and as in any bonding mechanism, they require clean and dry substrates. Always rinse off any cleaning agents and thoroughly dry both surfaces before application of the adhesive. Multiple, thin applications (each allowed to dry until clear), will yield longer lasting bonds. You can tailor the length of how long the bond will last by how many applications you use. Two or three is a good start, but more than five are generally useless. A common practice is to coat both the scalp and the unit when bonding poly bases. This creates a bond that is stronger than usual for pressure sensitive type adhesives and is a contact type bond. Once contact is made the bond is instantaneous. You do not get to reposition the unit nor can you separate the unit from itself if it is accidentally touched.
One way to allow repositioning is to spray a thin layer of isopropyl alcohol (common rubbing alcohol) onto the base (never near the eyes). Do this after the final layer of dried adhesive is ready. There are three concentrations or rubbing alcohol available in pharmacies, use the one that is 98 percent. You have a short window of time to place the unit and reposition before the bonding occurs. The isopropyl alcohol will evaporate through the poly in a couple minutes and a strong bond will form. Keep from moving the unit for several minutes during this time. It might take some practice to determine the right amount of alcohol and how long before the bonding takes place, but if you want to be sure the unit is accurately placed it could be well worth it. Our Scalp Cleaner Gel removes adhesive and the unit from the client. The gel is designed to take the tacky, pressure sensitive adhesive and remove the adhering properties. They will make the job of removal easier for you and the client. Our Base Cleaning Solution to removes adhesive from the base without damaging the hair. Simply spray the base and let sit for 2 minutes. Soak in water for a few minutes and the adhesive will turn white and will be easy to remove.
Testimonial:
Angela Robinson, Owner, ADR Creative Hair, Maitland, FL This new product was introduced at the AHLC conference this year and I wanted to share our experience in using this product in our salon. Most of our women clients are soaked off and our staff has found that using the New Clear Scalp Cleansing Gel helps to reduce the overall time. When an oilybased solvent is used it makes the clean up much easier because it breaks down the bond at a faster speed and with ease. It also helps to reduce product usage along with the overall time to clean on hair piece removals. The product has also gotten rave reviews from the clients that it leaves their scalp feeling refreshed.
  Issue 16, Winter 2015 
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The Voice of the AHLC
Step-by-Step to Successful Bonding New Image has spent extensive time and research in developing products that are healthier and longer lasting for those clients who are already experiencing hair loss. With the eXTreme Application kit, it is your opportunity to turn their hair loss issue into an exceptional experience that gives them back some control. by Jay Benjamin, National Sales Manager, New Image Labs
A
s hair care professionals, it makes sense that you would want to use the best products on the market while providing the security of a strong hold while at the same time bringing out the best of the fine, natural-looking workmanship and technology that goes into each hand-crafted New Image hair solution that you deliver.
eXTreme Pro is a New Image product that was developed for clients with eXTreme demands. It’s not just an adhesive but also an application kit designed to maintain the health of the scalp while delivering the most holding power of any other product on the market. If your clients live in hot and humid climates or their skin type needs a product that will hold for a more extended period of time, eXTreme Pro has proven itself time and again by providing your clients with the longest lasting hold of any adhesive in its class in the market. The exceptional formula of the eXTreme Pro, stored in airtight packaging, keeps moisture in and air away to insure the strength of each and every application. This allows you to get the most out of every tube, saving on waste and ineffective product. New Image’s product innovations extend to the X-Factor, a product designed to extend the holding power of the eXTreme Pro with just a spritz on the scalp.
28 Issue 16, Winter 2015
Overall, the eXTreme Pro application kit elevates your service, allowing you to add more value to the spa like experience your clients will not soon forget. Your clients deserve the best and that is exactly what New Image aims to offer… quality products with a proven track record of assisting professional hair replacement studios in giving their clients the assurance they expect in maintaining a natural look.
STEP-BY-STEP APPLICATION The eXTreme Pro Application is designed to be easy to follow with each step in a numbered series on the bottle. It is designed to give your customer a rich experience as well as the best environment for a secure application service after service.
STEP ONE: eXTreme Pro Release eXTreme Pro Release is an innovative scalp cleanser that effectively removes most types of bond residue. Spray a small amount directly onto the scalp, allow it to soak in for a short time then gently rub the area to break up the adhesive and follow with a rinse of lukewarm water.
STEP TWO: eXTreme Pro Cleanser & Residue Remover
Just by using a small amount massaged into the scalp, it acts as an
exfoliator by removing any remaining residue and dead skin cells. Formulated with refreshing menthol and Eucalyptus, it leaves the scalp feeling refreshed and promotes optimal scalp health. After applying, rinse with lukewarm water and towel dry.
STEP THREE: eXTreme Pro Protection This is a product that is specially formulated for the protection of the scalp, acting as barrier from deep-seeded sebum. Its purpose is to leave the treated area thoroughly dry, clean and sealed. With a combination of tea tree oil and peppermint, it will deodorize and control any bacterial growth. This is the best way to prepare the scalp for the security of the bond. For an even stronger bond, a spritz of The X Factor is all it takes to get an additional seven to fourteen days out of your attachment.
STEP FOUR: eXTreme Max Adhesive The application process is simple; apply four thin coats using a makeup sponge for control of application and even coverage. Allow each application to dry between coats and before applying the hair graft.
The Voice of the AHLC
eXTreme Pro is not just an adhesive, it is a step-bystep method derived from the best research and development in the hair loss industry. Utilizing this application method as a best practice in your studio will result in giving your customer not only a more secure bond but an experience that will keep them returning to you for best in class service.
  Issue 16, Winter 2015 
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The Voice of the AHLC
Which Type of Bond to Use and Why Bonding can be done on any client, with or without hair, you just have to know the correct type of bond to use. There are many types of bonds, with many different names; hard bond, soft bond, poly bond, perma bond, full head, perimeter, grafting, to name a few. It’s easy to see why it can be more than a little confusing. Let’s break it down a little and clear up some of the confusion. by Gia Leffler, National Educator for HairVisions International and Hair Replacement Specialist
Full Head Bonding The newest and most popular bond on the market today is a full head bond , otherwise known as non-surgical grafting. The advantage of this type of bonding is that it is the flattest, most undetectable attachment because it is used with a thin-skin polyurethane base hair system, all lace hair system or combination of the two. A co-polymer adhesive is applied to a clean scalp without hair and sometimes also applied to the poly base as well. The thin poly or lace hair system is then applied to the scalp once the bond has dried and is clear. No additional tape or bond is used therefore making this attachment very flat, comfortable and undetectable. Because such thin hair systems are used, they are very delicate and do not last long. The client typically needs anywhere from four to twelve hair systems each year and therefore are generally sold as a program. There are a few types of full-head bond adhesives formulated for different body chemistries. They all work great but one might hold better for some clients where another might work better for others. Honestly, it's just trial and error. If you are new to bonding, I would suggest ordering a few different small tubes and give them a try.
30 Issue 16, Winter 2015
The Voice of the AHLC
Perimeter Bonding
Long Hair Bonding
As the name implies, this type of bond is attached to the perimeter of the bald or thinning area. The center of the hair system is not attached. Perimeter bonding has been around for quite some time and is still commonly used today. There are a few different types of bonding agents that are used for this procedure: Silicone bond (also called soft bond), resin and a hard bond. This type of bond should not be applied directly to the base of the system. For this reason it’s generally used on a stronger hair system with a tape tab around the perimeter. Red liner is typically used with the resin and hard bond while brown liner is typically paired with the silicone bonds. This procedure is applied on top of hair stubble. A track is measured out and the hair in the track area is trimmed down to about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch long.
For females who might be apprehensive about shaving or even trimming a track, long hair bonding is an option for them. For this procedure you need a bond that can be removed with solvent so a silicone bond is your best option. This attachment would be done the same as you would a perimeter bond, only without shaving the track area. The track would be measured out and bond applied on top of the hair in that area. Solvent would be used for removal. This attachment is a non-invasive, reversible approach to permanent attachment.
The soft or resin bond is applied to the track area as well as to the perimeter of the hair system where the tape has already been applied. Hard bond is applied to the perimeter of the hair system only. The pros of this attachment are, it generally lasts longer than full head bonding requiring less visits to the salon. Since a stronger hair system is used, it will last longer. The client may only need two hair systems a year. Depending on the type of hair ordered, this may be a more cost effective option for the client.
The best bonding technique is what best meets your client’s needs. Are they looking strictly for undetectable appearance? Then the thinnest skin with a full head bond attachment would be my pick for them. Are they looking for less frequent salon visits without the monthly program fee? A perimeter bond may be their best option. A thorough consultation will narrow down the options till you come to a decision of what you feel will work best for your client. Education is key in our business. Products and techniques are changing all the time so you have to stay on top of it. Happy bonding!
Issue 16, Winter 2015
31
The Voice of the AHLC
Safety First Promise Has Been the Key to Professional Hair Labs Success Our incredible success with the Ghost Bond range and now, Ghost Supreme, as well as our drive for environmental sustainability shows just how far we’ve come in a relatively short period of time. There’s no doubt that our dedication to safety and innovation have been key ingredients of our success. We look forward to producing more innovations in the market whilst expanding our product range to help fit the needs of our customers in the future. Ryan Margolin, EU Director, Global Digital Marketing, Professional Hair Labs
R
ecently, large corporations within the beauty industry have announced a “safety drive”. Johnson & Johnson, a shining example of this new focus, have promised to remove harmful substances such as formaldehyde by the end of 2015. This has been warmly accepted within the cosmetics industry as the safety of customers should be of paramount importance. Organizations such as safetcosmetics.org have been calling for this sort of action from companies for years. It seems that large cosmetics companies are now listening.
Whilst this is encouraging, there have been other companies within the industry who have been enacting this “safety philosophy” for a considerable amount of time. We at Professional Hair Labs, have been actively producing safe cosmetics for almost two decades. Located in both Florida, USA as well as a key sales and distribution hub in Ireland, we produce a 100% safe liquid adhesive and scalp treatment line and are known as the “world leader in cosmetic bonding”. We are known for our dedication to ensuring that our customers’ experience is positive by providing safe, effective products. On each of our products you will find our famous “safety first” logo which is there to remind our customers of our dedication to their safety. The “Ghost Range” has firmly established Pro Hair Labs as an industry leader in the science of hair bonding. Both private customers and healthcare professionals have been proudly using
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our Ghost products since the range was launched in 2009. The reaction to the Ghost Range has been incredible. Jim “The General” Toscano, a hair specialist with over 38 years of experience said that “Ghost Bond worked perfectly on about 95% of my clients, and I thought that it was going to be the best bond that we would ever see. Then comes Ghost Bond XL with extra moisture control, and now even my athletes are happy! By using No Sweat with Ghost Bond XL, all my clients can be bonded. Combined with Ghost Mist, which is a great finishing spray with Argan Oil, this product adds a great shine to the hair, giving it that brand new, out of the box look.” We take great care to produce the best quality products that we can. For hair replacement professionals such as Mr Toscano, ensuring the safety of his clients is absolutely critical to the success of his studio. That’s why so many salon owners use our Ghost Range. They know that it’s extremely effective and their customers are 100% safe when using our products. This “peace of mind” is invaluable to a salon owner whose livelihood is at stake if a product fails to perform or causes harm to their client. Because of the recent publicity surrounding the move for safety in cosmetics, individual customers are now learning the dangers of poorly produced cosmetic products. This has forced larger corporations to act. Why? The reason is quite simple; many of these companies were producing products that sold at
low cost. They spent millions of dollars advertising their products to ensure sales whilst spending drastically less on research and better quality ingredients. Unfortunately in some instances, safety took second place meaning that whilst customers were buying products that they believed to be safe and effective, they were in fact, buying products containing dangerous substances. Ingredients such as Latex, Hexane, Formaldehyde and Phthalates were used in many cosmetic products to allow for low cost production. These ingredients can be dangerous to an end user. To a person with a Latex allergy, Latex exposure can cause side effects that range from the mild to the extremely dangerous. For instance: • Watery, itchy eyes • Sneezing, Coughing, Runny Nose • Rash or Hives • Shortness of breath, chest constriction • Anaphylactic shock It’s the last point which is of extreme concern. What you might ask, is Anaphylactic shock? It is a severe, whole-body allergic reaction to a chemical that has become an allergen. After being exposed, the person’s immune system becomes sensitized to it. When the person is exposed to that allergen again, an allergic reaction may occur. Anaphylaxis happens quickly after the exposure. Similarly, Hexane is a solvent that is used in many cosmetic products that were produced by large corporations. Similar
The Voice of the AHLC to Latex, many consumers are not aware of the dangers. Hexane can cause nerve damage in feet, legs, hands, and arms and can do so in a relatively short period of time.
ingredients that will perform most effectively which is why we constantly look for ingredients that will perform better whilst being completely safe for use. Testing: We then send samples to our “tester” studios all over the world. Each studio tests our products’ performance It’s good to know that these ingredients are being phased out by companies. under varying conditions. We receive detailed feedback on multiple aspects of People are rightly heralding this drive as our formulation. The purpose of sendpositive. ing our samples to different parts of the world is mainly to ensure they hold up to However, we at Professional Hair Labs varying climate conditions as well as testhave been enacting this philosophy for ing the effectiveness of the formulation.. nearly two decades. Our products have Feedback: Based upon the feedback never contained any of these dangerous we receive we narrow down the best substances. We take great pride in this ingredients to use and then send out a and are happy to see that other comsecond round of samples. At this point, panies are following our example. Truly we generally have the final formulation great companies value their customers developed. We then send this formulaand their safety. By guaranteeing safe, tion back for testing. This ensures that effective products for our customers at we have developed the safest and most an affordable price, we ensure our comeffective product possible. pany’s integrity whilst developing lasting relationships with them. This level of testing is absolutely critical to our success. We value safety and We spend a considerable amount of effectiveness equally. When asked about time testing each and every product the quality of our products, Ms Cathy we develop before launching it to the Montefusco, an educator and trainer in market. Working closely with our own the cosmetics industry said “My job as team of technicians and chemists allows technical director for 8 hair replacement us to create safe, effective products that centres is to find and use the best prodwill stand the test of time. We spend as ucts for our customers. Over the years I much as 12 months extensively testing have been frustrated from hearing comunder varying circumstances to ensure plaints of lifting fronts, melting, odors absolute safety and quality. and dry, dull hair. Fortunately, we are in total control of what products that we There is a distinct process that each use on our clients. We eliminated all of these problems by using No Sweat scalp of our products go through before antiperspirant to control the natural oils we launch them. on the scalp, allowing the bond to full Formulation: The first stage of the cure. Ghost Bond XL is magic in a bottle process involves gathering our formulato me. Ghost Mist is a wonderful spray tions based on the functionality of the which I use to keep processed hair shiny product we are developing. We identify and soft. It can be an aid in reducing the our customers’ issue and then create a number of remakes that you have due product that will solve that problem. to hair quality. Our clients look great and Research: We then research and review most importantly are happy! Professional studies based upon each individual Hair Labs have the right tools to be the ingredient that will be used to create the best technician that you can be.” product. We use this research to ensure that every ingredient used is completely Our position as a one of the market safe and is not associated with any leaders in the hair replacement industry health risks. has attracted the attention of a number Substitution: Then comes the stage of renowned industry professionals. where we review substitutes for each Over the last 2 decades, we have been ingredient used within our formulaapproached by many of the leading hair tion. We are dedicated to using the best suppliers to produce bonding agents
that will work specifically with their hair range. Most recently, we developed our the latest bonding adhesive in the Ghost family, “Ghost Supreme”. Ghost Bond Supreme is perfect for high end hair systems or systems with extremely thin bases. More importantly, Ghost Bond Supreme has been formulated for clients who demand the very best, cutting edge adhesive technology that provides a truly undetectable front hair line. Of course, an invisible hairline is only invisible if it is securely bonded with a product that is also undetectable up close and in all lighting situations. Blending in with the natural color tones of the skin, our Ghost Supreme product gives clients the completely undetectable front hair line which they all strive for. Complete invisibility and outstanding bonding are the key elements that will make this new product line stand proudly alongside our existing products. However, if your clients are looking for a premium product, then Ghost Supreme is exactly what they will require. Ghost Bond Supreme is truly is a new generation of bonding technology which we at PHL are incredibly excited about. We believe that our focus on research and development has allowed us to be at the forefront of these types of innovations within the industry. Ghost Supreme is truly remarkable and is perfect for clients who require the very best. Of course our existing Ghost Bond range is every bit as effective as Ghost Supreme. We are proud to be known as the number one choice of hair loss professionals. Safety is not the only thing we are dedicated to. We want to actively play our part in improving the environment as well. With that in mind, we have completely redesigned our product packaging to make it 100% biodegradable. This new packaging will completely biodegrade within just 355 days. We hope that many other cosmetic companies will follow our example and begin to introduce packaging that will be more beneficial to the environment. We are proud to invest our time and effort into becoming more environmentally conscious. Issue 16, Winter 2015
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The Voice of the AHLC
Insurance Claims: How to Help Clients Get Covered
Insurance is a can of worms! Most people simply don’t want to deal with the paperwork. Sure, it may increase the price point when clients know their insurance will reimburse part of their expenses. However, our overhead is substantial when you think of the networking expenses, the special education and the extended consultations. When you get all those smiles and hugs, it makes it all worth the effort. by Jonalee Schmidt, Owner, HRJ Hair Solutions, Lima, OH
First: Don’t say “wig!” Insurance companies don’t recognize that word. Call it a “full cranial hair prosthesis.” They may reply, “You mean a wig?” Your reply is, “If you lose an arm or a leg, you replace it with a prosthesis. If you lose your hair for medical reasons, it’s also a body part. So you replace it with a custom, full cranial hair prosthesis! Hair loss stops being a cosmetic problem and becomes a medical issue and it interferes with your life. When people stay in their homes and are afraid to go outside, it stops being a cosmetic issue. Every state is different. That’s the tough part. But I can share a few generalities for filing insurance for a full cranial prosthesis. My goal is to inform both medical caregivers and their patients how to have their hair systems covered. When somebody comes to my salon, I have printed guidelines that I give them, like a script. When they call their insurance provider they can say, “I am going to get a custom, full cranial hair prosthesis. I have a prescription from my physician. Does my policy cover it?” The insurance company can only answer yes or no. The amount covered varies as well. All insured patients have a benefit booklet; they can look under prosthetic devices to check their individual coverage and
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then call their insurance company to get a claim form and have it signed by their physician. They will need a prescription from their doctor. The prescription should be written up for a cranial prosthesis on a standard prescription form. I actually had prescription pads put together and printed up. We fill out everything and my client simply takes it to their medical provider. All the physician has to do is sign their name. To get reimbursed, your client also needs a paid sales receipt. We have special pads with triplicate copies. They give our corporate name and the nature of our business. I keep one file copy and the other two are for the client. She can keep one for taxes and send the other to her insurance. I also have a letter of necessity that explains why the prosthesis is necessary. My letter takes a whole page. Everybody does things differently. Your client will be sending four items to the insurance company: You letter of necessity, your prescription, a paid receipt and a HICFA 1500 form.
Other things that help a claim: Have your clients get a letter from their employer stating the importance of wearing a cranial prosthesis to work. Have them a picture of themselves without hair. That will immediately show the claim is not for cosmetic purposes. Insurance claims agents are better educated now, but they still can’t visualize
someone without hair. A personal, handwritten letter describing emotional feelings can also help. Be sure to have them keep a copy of the prescription and paid bill for tax purposes. Cranial prosthesis can be written off if a person itemizes their taxes. If the claim is denied, your client can ask for an appeal and ask for a written explanation as to why it was denied. Most insurance companies want the provider to send an official appeal.
Non-Taxable: The cost of a wig is a medical, deductible expense. You never charge tax for a medical prosthesis if you have a prescription. Do not include hats or hair accessories on your medical billing. You don’t want to push the insurance companies so don’t include headwear and hats, even if you do sell them to medical clients.
Jonalee Schmidt is a breast cancer survivor and she is committed to helping men, women and children suffering from medical hair loss. After 53 years as a cosmetologist, she uses her accumulated skills to work with local hospitals, clinics and professional groups to bring hope and comfort to people in need.
The Voice of the AHLC