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The Link The Voice of the AHLC
ISSUE 10 • 2014
THE WOMEN’S ISSUE Features 6 8 10 11 34 37
2014 AHLC Conference Review Meet Dr. Tamim Hamid Press Release: New Image Labs Relocates Corporate Headquarters Follow the Ponytail Catching Up With Brianna #HairForHazel
The Girls Have It! 12 14 17 18 21
Hair Loss In Women How to Have a Successful Women’s Business Cut It Out! Eyelash Extensions When the Student is Ready, The Teacher Will Appear
AHLC Business Tools You Can Use
22 24 25 26 28 30 32
Change Your Life, Change Your Hair The Evolution of Georgie So, What Makes a Wig Kosher? Meet Dimples Leading Hair Replacement Products for Women Alexia and Friends Understanding Wigs
In Every Issue 20 39 40 42
AHLC Academy Member Spotlight: Anthony Santangelo Welcome New Members Tricks of The Trade: How to Measure the Head for a Wig
Subscription Information: Subscriptions to The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council are mailed FREE to members of the AHLC within the continental United States. International members are provided digital copies free. Please contact us for additional shipping rates if you are an AHLC member outside the US and wish to receive a printed edition. Non-member subscription price: $60 annually within the continental United States, $85 International. To become a member, renew your membership, or subscribe to The Link as a non-member, please contact Betty Ann Bugden, Membership Director, 570-462-1101 or log on to www.AHLC.org. The Link Issue 5, 2013 3
The Link The Voice of the AHLC
MESSAGE FROM THE AHLC BOARD In This Issue: The Girls Have It! We are so excited to bring you our biggest issue yet. This issue we focus on the Women’s Market. In a special section called Business Tools You Can Use, participating member manufacturers were asked, “What are your most popular sellers and why?” We got great responses and we think the information included will be a great asset to you and your business. See pages 22-33 for this special section. Our annual conference was a huge success! See pages six and seven to see what you missed. It was SO great that we’ve already got commitments from each vendor that participated (all 18 of them) for next year’s conference! The rest of the issue is chock-full of great articles. We’d love to hear which are your favorites.
Competition is always a good thing. It forces us to do our best. On another note, there is a common saying, “All press is good press.” In the nature of clarification, we’d like to address some comments made in the National Hair and Skin Journal. Around the first or second week of April, we received the “Winter Edition.” We were delighted to see the editor mention the AHLC and state the obvious: “You now have choices. For a small industry, you are fortunate to have two publications to bring you hair loss news.” For over two years The Link has been making a positive impact on our industry. The impetus behind creating The Link was there was something missing from the newsfront in our industry, our voice. The voice of the individual salon owner, the stylist, the hair replacement specialist and small business owner. We each have something to contribute. And yes, now we all do have a choice. Two publications for the same industry can’t help but be competitive, but that doesn’t have to be negative. Our focus is always to provide the best news, current information, business building tools and industry updates. We strive to be better with each issue – to do the best job we can – for our members and the entire industry.
Membership Information:
For more information call toll-free 855.445.9509 or visit www.ahlc.org.
For a membership form visit www.ahlc.org or email info@ahlc.org
The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council is the official, quarterly publication of the American Hair Loss Council. For information on advertising or contributing to content, please contact us: The American Hair Loss Council 30 South Main, Shenandoah, PA 17976 855.445.9509 or info@ahlc.org
The Link Staff:
Managing Editor: Janine Thornhill Design and Layout: e-zign Design Group, www.e-zign.com Creative Director: Terrell Thornhill
Thanks to our Contributors:
Elvira Amankwa, CMP, Marketing Manager, New Image Labs, West Palm Beach, FL Risa Balayem, Owner, PR1 Communication, Ann Arbor, MI Brianna Crochunis, Issue 5 Cover Girl, Middleport, PA Alan Eaton, Founder and Senior Vice President, Envy Hair, LLC, Indianapolis, Miami, Toronto Richard N. Kaufman, Owner, Euro Hair Imports, Lauderdale by the Sea, FL Shlomo Klein, VP, OSY Inc., Georgie Wigs, Xtensify, New York, NY Rhonda McCarthy, VP Strategy and Business Development, On Rite Company, Ft. Lauderdale, FL Lisa Minervini, VP Product Development & Branding, Jon Renau/easihair, Vista, CA Rachel Molepske, PBA Manager of Charitable Programs, Scottsdale, AZ Jo Mousselli, RN, Co-Founder/CEO, Xtreme Lashes Eyelash Extensions, Spring, TX Les Porter, Owner, Western Maryland Hair Replacement Center, LaVale, MD Anthony Santangelo, Owner, AMS Designs, Inc, Chicago, IL Holly Slear, Technical Director and Head Educator, Follea, Beverly Hills, CA James Todd, Hair Extraordinaire, Dimples, Los Angeles, CA Scott Walmsley, President, Envy Hair, LLC, Indianapolis, Miami, Toronto
AHLC Board of Directors:
We’ve got a new toll-free phone number. Please make a note of it.
855.445.9509 ...just don’t everyone call all-at-once.
4 The Link Issue 10, Summer 2014
Peggy Thornhill, President Marsha Scott, Vice President Susan Kettering, Executive Director Betty Ann Bugden, Treasurer/Membership Director Joseph Ellis, Board Member Laura Cole, Board Member The opinions expressed in The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the views of the American Hair Loss Council. The advertisements in The Link do not necessarily reflect the beliefs, opinions or attitudes of the AHLC and does not imply product or service endorsement. The American Hair Loss Council © All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Published for the AHLC by e-zign Design Group. www.e-zign.com
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“Besint oSvehrow 20 Years!” Without a doubt, Loved it!
We’ll never miss another one. I wish there had been more time! I so enjoyed meeting everyone, was extremely pleased with the contacts I made and the classes I attended. The food was excellent as well. Had a great time with my new friends. Thanks again! Sylvia Caruso Wigs by Sylvia Saugus, MA
We had an amazing time!
We enjoyed all the vendors and education classes. It was so great to revisit with everyone. The conference was organized and put together well. The Hyatt was also a great location with amazing room rates! We appreciate being members and thank you for doing such a great job. Jerry Piatt Collette Peterson Chele Piatt La Jolla Hair Clinic San Diego, CA
the most successful conference and trade show I have ever exhibited with in over 15 years! The quality of attendees was vastly superior to any other beauty industry show that I have attended.
Shlomo Klein VP, OSY Inc Georgie Wigs
This was my second year
attending the AHLC Annual Conference. What an amazing group of professionals all under one roof. The vendors were great as well as networking with others in the hair loss industry. Les Porter Western Maryland Hair Replacement LaVale, MD
I was truly impressed
with the quality of AHLC's event organization, the professional, yet welcoming atmosphere and the enthusiastic hair replacement industry participation as judged by the hundreds of visitors to our stand. We saw many old friends there and met many new ones. The AHLC raised the bar for a professional HRC tradeshow. We will be back in 2015 for sure. Michael Leigh President, Follea.
ANNOUNCING NEXT
FORT LAUDERDALE
otedy... YouheVlm ingl
overw
SAVE THE DATE!
2014 Conference Review Exciting and energetic!
YEAR’S CONFERENCE
APRIL 25-27, 2015 WESTIN ON THE BEACH
Since Professional Hair Labs has been directly involved with the AHLC Conference we have had the pleasure of seeing it grow from year to year. Much of the credit is due to all the hard work put in by the AHLC’s Board of Directors and the staff of The Link Magazine. An exciting and energetic atmosphere was created by the vendors and members who attended this weekend event. From a vendor's perspective, I can really see the member’s eagerness to learn from the live demonstrations given and the deep interest they show in the products they use on their clients day-to-day. It makes us feel more comfortable as a manufacturer of hair replacement products to experience the level of awareness and dedication that studio owners and technicians have towards the products' ingredients and application process. This rare occasion to sit faceto-face with many new and existing clients provides us with the chance to have group discussions and also provides us with excellent troubleshooting opportunities. Our valued client feedback allows us to discuss with them the next step for Professional Hair Labs in the manufacturing of new products specifically targeted to cater for the needs of the growing hair replacement industry. We very much look forward to participating in next year's event. Daryl Margolin Vice President Professional Hair Labs
The conference was a perfect size with a perfect set-up.
It was exactly what I needed for my business at this time. Being able to network with studio owners was invaluable! Everything flowed so well. I felt welcomed by the AHLC board and they were ready to help me with any information I needed. Bonnie Grauer Wigs and Hair Solutions Columbia MD
We thoroughly enjoyed the 2014 AHLC show. We will be back in 2015 for sure with more Remy/ European: Top Pieces, Wigs, and Hair Systems. There’s no trade show in USA or Europe that targets the hair replacement industry like the AHLC Conference. There’s also plenty of education from all the best in the industry.
James Todd Hair Extrordinaire Dimples
Meet Dr. Tamim Hamid
The Man Under the Helmet
AHLC • LINK MAGAZINE • “Introducing you to the news makers, pioneers researchers and CEOs”
T
heradome is a science and engineering company dedicated to providing effective, safe, accessible, affordable and convenient hair restoration devices to those who suffer from hair loss. Founder and CEO Tamim Hamid developed Theradome technology in response to his personal hair loss. After futilely attempting to restore his own hair loss with Propecia, Dr. Hamid, a former NASA special projects biomedical engineer, decided that there had to be a way to apply his biomedical and biochemical experience to design a device that worked, was affordable and could be used in the privacy and comfort of one’s own home.
Having experience with industrial lasers since his early days at NASA, Dr. Hamid became intrigued with Low Level Laser Therapy (LLLT) and its powerful, biological benefits for many conditions, including hair restoration. He was surprised to learn that LLLT for hair restoration was expensive and limited to in-clinic treatments. The technical challenges included how to deliver adequate photochemical stimulation to the scalp without generating too much heat and making it more accessible, affordable and convenient. Based in Silicon Valley, Theradome had access to the world’s best scientists, engineers and technical manufactures. Five generations of prototypes were developed over seven years, and the ideal features of a hair restoration device were realized. It had to be simple, wireless, easy to use, convenient, affordable, provide adequate scalp coverage, with sufficient laser power to deliver clinically effective therapy in a safe manner. Today, the Theradome LH80 PRO is the first FDA-cleared, over-the-counter device of its kind. 8 The Link Issue 10, Summer 2014
AHLC: You just attended and presented education at the AHLC conference. Your class was well attended and greatly received. What are some things that you learned from being involved with the AHLC and/or directly with our members?
Dr. Hamid: The AHLC experience was wonderful and it taught me a lot. First, after a pre-conference briefing with the AHLC board, I realized that my proposed presentation was far too technical for the audience; I’d been spending too much time with scientists and engineers. So I spent the evening before the event modifying the presentation. In the end, I was delighted to see the reaction, enthusiasm and to field great questions from the attendees. The biggest take-home from a learning standpoint is that anyone in the hair restoration business, including me, needs to not only understand LLLT and its mechanism of action, but must also be able to articulate this to the average hair loss client. We have to speak with authority when we market these devices and help the consumer make educated decisions about their treatment. In fact, the experience motivated me to initiate a class that will certify practitioners in the scientific, biomedical, clinical and business aspects of LLLT.
AHLC: With an engineering background and experience at NASA, it doesn’t get any more prestigious than that! How has this played into the way you run your business, approach product development, market to salon owners and small businesses for resale and a service?
Dr. Hamid: Believe it or not, launching a space shuttle program and a medical device share a lot of similarities. If you think about it, both involve extensive
government interaction, diligent research, rigorous trials and precision engineering. Safety, of course, is of primary importance in both undertakings. So, in many ways, achieving FDA clearance is not dissimilar to achieving a “go” from NASA. Tamim Hamid in 1991 receiving the NASA Engineer of the Year Award
In terms of marketing, the parallels lie in the need to explain the technology and assure people that your solution will work. NASA wants to be 100% sure that a space launch will work; salon owners and small business people want assurances that a device that they invest hard-earned money in will work. In both instances, people have a lot of questions. How does it work? Why is it designed the way it is? So, you have to anticipate questions and be able to provide factual answers that support your development efforts. I can’t stress enough how education, understanding the science and helping business owners and consumers understand the science is critical to successfully marketing LLLT. Most people readily understand the benefits of inhome use, hands-free operations, low costs and other product features. It’s understanding the science that makes the difference in successfully marketing the product.
The Link The Voice of the AHLC
AHLC: How has the Theradome changed the at-home laser treatment market, and where do you think the market is headed? Dr. Hamid: We made it convenient for consumers to experience a clinicalgrade solution in their home. We made it affordable. Now, clinically effective LLLT is accessible to many more people who could not previously afford it or who found repeated visits to a treatment center too inconvenient. There’s always room in the market for something that works, is accessible, affordable and effective. In fact, I believe that devices like the Theradome LH80 PRO will become as common in the home as the hair dryer is today. And because of the benefits of LLLT, healthier hair, greater hair volume and more luminous hair, for example, we’ll probably see it marketed as a general beauty-enhancement device as well.
been excellent; people are excited about the device and very pleased with the results. Initially, I was surprised by some feedback until I realized that the comments were a result of not understanding the technology or not understanding the body’s reaction to LLLT. Scalp itching, for example, is common during initial treatments. It typically resolves within a few weeks. But it’s also a sign of effective scalp stimulation and part of the process leading to hair growth. So, people were reassured to learn that the itching was a natural part of the process and was not an adverse reaction. Dr. Hamid wearing an early prototype
AHLC: One surprising feature of the Theradome not touted in the literature is that it actually ‘speaks’ to the user. Who’s idea was that? Dr. Hamid: The idea of incorporating voice messages was a result of user feedback in early development. We knew we wanted the device to be hands-free, and rejected the idea of using a remote because people tend to misplace them. So, that decision led to a design constraint, how to best interact with the system? Using voice messages actually turned out to be a very good feature because, in addition to notifying users about operating status, the need to charge the battery and other procedural issues, we’ve found that it helps with compliance. Voice messages tell the user how many treatments they have completed, how much time is left during an individual treatment session, and it seems to help them stay on track with the treatment plan. AHLC:
We imagine you are getting all sorts of feedback from users. What are you hearing about results, and what has been interesting about the feedback you’ve received?
Dr. Hamid:
In general, feedback has
AHLC: As a trade organization, the AHLC is our industry’s only non-biased, not-for-profit association. It’s no secret that we are huge on ethics and standards. Since the FDA considers lasers for hair regrowth to be a medical device, some lasers on the market are still not FDA cleared. While it may be obvious we’d like to know what made you decide to go the FDA cleared route? Dr. Hamid: Well, my background is in biomedical engineering and any device to be used in any way that involves the human body should be cleared and regulated. Obtaining FDA clearance, while it is not the easy path to the market, involves both health and ethical considerations. I never thought for a moment about not pursing FDA clearance. Yes, it is complex, involved and expensive. But, it is a responsibility that any medical device manufacturer should be held accountable for. I believe there should be no exceptions to and zero tolerance for bypassing the clearance process. And that applies to any medical device, I don’t care if it is as simple as a non-ionizing light source, it should be the law in the case of all medical devices. AHLC: In our last issue of The Link, we
Because similar experiences, we continue to put a lot of effort into addressing common questions and to teach people more about the process. As you know, hair loss is a condition associated with a lot of emotion, so the more users know about the process, the more comfortable they become. Some of the more interesting comments we’ve received include great results in conditions or populations that were not included in our clinical trials. Our FDA clearance includes hair growth in females with androgenic alopecia and Fitzpatrick Skin Types I-IV. When we hear about treatment successes in conditions such as alopecia areata and in people with dark skin, it reinforces our belief that the device can be effective in a variety of patient types, despite the fact that not every type was included in clinical trials or not included in sufficient numbers for the FDA to deem significant.
published Lexington International’s recent double-blind study. The fact that lasers help regrow hair has been put to rest, at least as far as our industry is concerned. The general public, however, may be another story. What can we do as hair restoration professionals, to help spread the word, respond to resistance to the technology and better educate the public?
Dr. Hamid: Hair replacement professionals need to learn as much as they can about LLLT. Look into all the various medical applications and understand what occurs at the cellular level and why it works. Understanding the technology and how it promotes hair growth will help educate the public as well as dispel myths and skepticism. When talking with the public, a firm understanding of the science, the biomedical process and the biomedical response is fundamental to consumer understanding, good treatment results and a wider acceptance of LLLT. The Link Issue 10, Summer 2014 9
membership
PRESS RELEASE
New Image Labs Relocates Corporate Headquarters
West Palm Beach, FL — New Image Labs Corporation, a leader in non-surgical hair loss solutions, is expanding and announces a major corporate relocation. This summer, both, the US headquarters as well as the Canadian office will be relocating to new facilities.
AHLC MEMBERS:
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The new 25,000 square-foot global headquarters, will be located at 1501 Northpoint Parkway in West Palm Beach, FL. This new state-of-the-art location features a ground-breaking training center for all educational needs where New Image will host educational events throughout the year. The company is especially proud of an expansive, high-tech warehouse with an innovative cooling system for accessories as well as more space for an even larger inventory of hair replacement solutions to even better serve the needs of the global hair replacement industry. The new home of the Canadian office will be 6-6305 Northam Drive, Mississauga in Ontario and features everything and more needed to cater to today’s Canadian hair replacement market. “New Image is raising the bar to better serve our clients and help them energize their business. That’s why we have added extended hours and cell phone accessibility for all Product Consultants to our service palette. We are now continuing on with our expansion by moving to a brand-new facility, which will open doors of opportunity,” states Óscar R. Urzola, President of New Image Labs Corp. “We are on a winning journey and I would like to invite our clients to join us and travel together with us on the road to success.” The relocation of the US global headquarters is expected to be completed by mid-June 2014. The Canadian office moved on May 26, 2014. New Image maintains an open door policy. Clients and friends are invited to stop by both locations when in the area.
The Link The Voice of the AHLC
Follow the Ponytail... Helping to Cover Young Heads to Heal Young Hearts
C
By: Lisa Minervini, VP Product Development & Branding, Jon Renau/easihair
hildren With Hair Loss (CWHL) has provided high quality, full human hair systems to over 300 children annually, with no obligation or cost to them or their families, for over 14 years. The impact on the children’s lives they’ve touched is immeasurable and their families are forever grateful. The vision is that children should be able to go outside, to go to school and face their young world with confidence and ambition, not worrying about what other people will think or say about them. Today’s children face so much peer pressure to fit in and those who are deemed as “different” or “not normal” by their peers, generally face a much more challenging childhood.
There are many misconceptions about “non-profit” companies and their claims of philanthropy. Finding out the facts before partnering with and supporting them is crucial. There are organizations that claim to “give”, however their giving comes with a price. Many families are facing medical bills or financial burdens and are not able to afford the high cost of a quality wig for their child. We hear how some families must wait up to 8 months to see if their child
will qualify or hear if they are eligible for a wig. Some organizations require W-2’s, letters of need and even personal endorsements with before and after pictures and thank you’s. Jon Renau has proudly partnered with Children With Hair Loss for over 7 years, and we continue to support their generous efforts every day. Children With Hair Loss is the only non-profit organization that provides this service to children the way they do. There is no child with medical hair loss that is turned away. CWHL has only one requirement. This is a note stating a diagnosis from a doctor or social worker with a date of birth accompany the child’s application. There has never been a family who was charged, billed or obligated for what they receive from CWHL. Each child in-need receives a new human hair wig or hair system every year up, until the age of 21. In addition each recipient receives a care package containing one hat, two head wraps, a hair halo (to be worn under hats when not wearing the system), hair care products, a head form, a brush and comb and an instruction video on how to care for the hair system – all at
no cost to the child or the child’s family. The retail value of the wig alone is approximately $2,500. CWHL is able to provide the tools, education and wigs due to their partnerships and the community’s support. More importantly, they are able to offer each child a sense of self-confidence and “normalcy”. A child who experiences hair loss is often left feeling isolated and alone in her experience. They realize the loss of something very personal, their hair. A part of their self-identity that most everyone around them takes for granted. The joy and excitement of watching a little girl or boy put on their wig for the first time is incredible. CWHL offers these kids a safe haven and community of children just like them. The wigs not only help them feel good on the inside, but they help them to step outside to face the world every day with strength and confidence. The CWHL team works very hard to provide the products and services to help better the lives of these children. It is with great pride that Jon Renau partners with CWHL while they fulfill their mission to “Cover Young Heads to Heal Young Hearts.”
The journey for each donated ponytail looks something like this: 1 The donated ponytail (8” or longer) is sent in to CWHL, and is pre-sorted by color. 2 The bundles of hair are then sealed in bags and sent to Jon Renau’s headquarters in San Diego, CA. 3 The hair is further sorted by length and color by the Jon Renau Product Development/Quality Control Team. 4 The sorted hair is then shipped to our human hair factory. 5 The factory then sorts the hair separately from any other production systems. The hair is stored by length and color. 6 The custom designed child’s cap (named ‘Regina’ after CWHL’s founder) is then constructed and ventilated with the donated hair. 7 Once completed, the wigs are then sent back to Jon Renau and shipped to CWHL in South Rockwood, MI. 8 The CWHL Team assembles the care package as a gift and sends them directly to the child and their family, again, at no cost or obligation. The Link Issue 10, Summer 2014 11
The Link The Voice of the AHLC
Hair Loss in Women It’s a Really Big Deal!
By: Elvira Amankwa, CMP, Marketing Manager, New Image Labs
W
ith the growing number of women affected with hair loss, many studio owners who traditionally only work with men and have been hesitant moving into the female market segment, are looking for information and guidance. Hopefully this article will provide just that. We also hope it will inspire newcomers to the hair replacement industry with the necessary spark to start working with and helping women with hair loss.
Suffering in Silence Today it is socially acceptable for men to be bald. In fact, being bald is even connected to such positive attributes ranging from extra-ordinary intelligence to increased virility. For women on the other hand, in most cultures; a full head of luscious hair still is the epitome of feminine beauty and even of female gender identity. When a woman loses her hair, she may feel like she is losing her identity and often suffers from secret shame. This can be a traumatic experience with devastating impact on a women’s self-confidence.
of hair loss sufferers would spend their life savings to regain a full head of hair and 60% would rather have more hair than money or friends.
Causes of Hair Loss From crowning glory to terrifying nightmare, here are some reasons why a woman can lose her hair: Causes of hair loss can range from hereditary hair loss, which means it can be inherited from a parent to hair cosmetics (harsh chemicals) to selfinfliction (traction alopecia) where constant pressure is causing the hair to fall out (wearing certain hair styles, such as tight braids or tight ponytails). Causes can also include illnesses and medications, like cancer and chemotherapy for example. Other causes can be hormone-related disorders, such as Thyroid disease or high stress levels. Autoimmune diseases can cause hair loss. During pregnancy and also during menopause women can lose their hair. Poor nutrition and rapid weight loss can also contribute to hair loss. And on the rise not only in the USA are allergies, which are a major health concern and can result in hair loss.
Diagnosis of Hair Loss CAUSE FOR ALARM: Average number of hair follicles on the scalp: 110,000 On average a person loses 50 to 100 hairs per day HAIR LOSS SUFFERERS LOSE 100+ HAIRS PER DAY!
On top of that, often there is little social and public support and if she is not dealing with a life-threatening disease, a woman’s complaint about losing her hair is often overlooked and down-played. Comments like “There’s worse than that,” “You’ll have to live with it” or “It’s no big deal” can be demoralizing. It’s no surprise that 47% 12 The Link Issue 10, Summer 2014
Generally, no doctor is needed to validate the first signs of hair loss, which often can push a woman into a state of high alert, if not panic. These signs are experienced in the privacy of the bedroom or bathroom; she wakes up in the morning to find hair on the pillow. She notices excessive hair loss when washing her hair and while brushing or combing. Her, once full, ponytail suddenly looks thinner or her part is widening. When these concerns persist, a woman who suffers from hair loss generally will consult a dermatologist to
find the root causes and determine the appropriate route of action. An experienced dermatologist will normally establish a patient profile and ask for a detailed history, including medications, allergies, family history, diet, record of menstruation, pregnancy, menopause, etc. Often blood tests will be ordered. A thorough examination of the scalp and hair will follow. Scalp biopsies can be used to make or confirm a diagnosis of hair loss. Hair distribution over the rest of the body will also be evaluated. Most Common forms of female pattern hair loss can be inherited from either the mother or the father. In the case of androgenic alopecia, we are looking at a type of hair loss, which can start in the late teens. The earlier hair loss starts, the more aggressive and severe it tends to be. Most women with female pattern hair loss do not suffer from a receding hairline or a bald spot on top of the scalp, as men often do. Instead, they have noticeable thinning in the crown area. Because of the shortened growth cycle, the hair is miniaturized. Looking wispy, more like hair on the forearms, the hair on the head falls out before it achieves the usual length.
Treatment Options The good news is that available treatment options for hair loss are as manifold as the actual causes for hair loss. In the early stages, a new hairstyle or scalp camouflage technique can help minimize the appearance of hair loss in women. Depending on the situation certain lifestyle changes, such as stress reduction and improved diet, will fortify the health and balance the emotional well
The Link The Voice of the AHLC being, which can improve hair growth. Low level laser hair therapy is often recommended. LLLT increases the circulation and stimulates the biological march that makes hair grow. Today’s therapy options range from hairbrushlike, hand-held devices to laser helmets. Topical Minoxidil can facilitate the regrowth of hair or help slow down hair loss. Minoxidil 2% is the only topical medication approved by the FDA for female pattern hair loss. Hair loss caused by diseases such as thyroid disease can be reversed with treatment of the underlying disease. In certain cases iron supplements are used to combat low levels of ferritin, which can result in hair loss. Medical hair growth shampoos are also available. Certain conditions respond well to topical or injectable cortisone medications and patients report accelerated hair regrowth. Surgical hair restoration is a more permanent type of hair loss solution. It is necessary to have some natural hair left to be a viable candidate for hair transplant surgery. It can be beneficial to women who lost their hair due to burns or other injuries and can also be performed on brows and/or eye lashes.
Female hair replacement solutions range from extensions to top of the head systems, to integrations and full cap systems. Many hair types are available to cater to today’s sophisticated female client; 100% Remy human hair, European hair, and Biolon (man-made fiber which mimics the molecular structure of human hair) or a blend of these. Each of these hair systems are designed and available in trendy colors and styles which are often inspired by the fashion runways of Paris and Milan. Today’s cap designs promote comfort, fit and security. Only about 80% of female clients really need a full cap hair system, so a top-of-the-head or integration system is the way to go. In case of an integration system, the female client’s own hair is gently pulled through openings in the cap. The client’s own hair is used together with the hair system’s hair and both are blended together for that perfectly natural look. Many women feel strongly about this hair replacement solution, as their own, real hair is used. For medical clients with no hair at all, the full cap is the best solution. Most manufacturers offer specially designed, lightweight and “breathable” caps for medical clients.
are many educational opportunities available to studio owners, including conferences and online learning programs. Contact manufactures for details on their specific programs. (See page 20, AHLC Academy educational opportunities.) Many hair replacement experts have benefited greatly from expanding their business to include female clients. If you are not one of them (yet), Ricky Knowles, Owner of Ricky’s Knowles Hair and Wellness in Houston, TX suggests: “Working with female clients has proven to be a great opportunity for my hair replacement business. Every time we help a female client, I feel very gratified by seeing the amazing transformation hair creates in a women’s life. Many of our female clients have been with us for years and I find them to be particularly loyal. Once you establish the trust and build the relationship, a female client will stick to you. Women also share their experiences with other women and it is not uncommon for us to have a strong referral stream from our female client base. All in all, I am very happy to work with female clients. It has been both, profitable for my studio and rewarding for me as a caring hair replacement professional.”
Working with female clients can be extremely rewarding and profitable. It is a growing market segment. There
Give it a try and you before long you will join us in saying “Women with hair loss – A really big deal!”
Non-surgical Options Many immediate and non-invasive hair replacement solutions are available to help women with hair loss. More is less and the goal is to enhance the personality and appearance of the female client with a most natural, undetectable look. Medical scenario, age, preferences, lifestyle and budget all weigh in when choosing the most appropriate hair replacement solution for a female client. Those successful in the female market segment will confirm that certain sensitivities apply when working with women with hair loss. In addition to technical skills, private environments paired with a smart sales consultation will open doors. In fact, the industry’s leading female hair replacement experts advocate creating a pampering ‘makeover’ experience every time the female client walks through the doors.
BY THE NUMBERS: According to the American Academy of Dermatology, 40% of women have visible hair loss by the time they are 40 years old. As many as 5% of women under 30 are affected and as many as 60% of those older than 70 suffer from hair loss.
The Link Issue 10, Summer 2014 13
The Link The Voice of the AHLC
Five Steps to Success Practical Advice to Grow a Thriving Women’s Business
By: Rhonda McCarthy, VP Strategy and Business Development, On Rite Company
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Credibility Women align themselves with businesses that are professional, trustworthy, honest, have their best interest at heart and who “give back” to their communities. If you have been in business for awhile, tell them how long and reassure them that you will be there for a long time to come. Display community and industry awards on your walls, a testimonial book with before and after photos. Make sure your testimonials are not too detailed – they should follow this format; When did she start losing her hair and how she felt, what were the things she tried, and how does she feel now that she has her hair – how has it changed her Again – for women, they do not see life. If a testimonial includes things like this as a choice – but necessity. I have “services”, “glue” “bonded”, “system”, yet to encounter a market that does “replacing hair”, then remove those pornot have a large segment of women tions. Those items are information you searching to find a solution – and can will want to cover during your consultaassure you that your market is no differ- tion – testimonials should be all about ent. I will be sharing what I’ve learned emotions. You may consider having in my travels with the hope that those some of your best testimonials framed in the industry who might be having and hanging in the consultation room challenges in this very rewarding and as well as in your book. profitable segment learn from our expeTraining is very important to women. riences and find financial success and Every consultation should highlight emotional rewards from helping women your company’s investment in trainin their markets. ing and education of your entire team. Women want to know that everyone in Trust Women buy from someone your company is up to date on the best they trust. We are very intuitive and technology, are educated in hair loss instinctively recognize body language. and that your stylists have all of the talYou must show true empathy and ents that their current stylist has – but understanding. If you’re someone also the added knowledge of being an who doesn’t “like” doing consultations expert in hair replacement too. with women – they will sense that he women’s business continues to flourish, and is still the fastest growing segment of our industry. For two years I’ve traveled all over the U.S. with Kayla Martell, 2010 Miss Delaware and 2011 Miss America finalist, educating women with hair loss about the available solutions. We have met hundreds of women and it still amazes me just how many really want to have their hair back and will do anything to make it happen. For them, it is not a choice – it is a necessity. So, I’ve wondered why it is that some businesses thrive in this area – and some continue to have challenges closing sales with women.
instantly. Either find someone who is truly empathetic and let them handle your women’s business or invest in sales training. Women are very loyal and will stay with you much longer than men – but know this – Women do talk to their friends – who talk to their friends etc.. so make sure you always give a good, honest and complete consultation. 14 The Link Issue 10, Summer 2014
Cleanliness I cannot stress the importance of this enough! This item alone will make or break you. Many times, in the middle of a consultation, I’ll see the woman’s eyes roam across the room, in the shampoo bowl, floors, countertops, brushes and combs. I’ve actually had a woman ask, “This isn’t the room where
you will be treating me, is it?” Definitely not something you want to hear during a consultation! I’ve also had a woman refuse to sit in a styling chair for her mold because it was covered with hair. I recommend that everyone walk into their front door with the “eyes of a new client.” Look around your reception area, the waiting room, the consultation room and your styling stations. Floors and corners should be free of hair, as well as brushes and combs. Tool carts, countertops and mirrors should be wiped down and clean. Shampoo bowls should be spotless. It might be helpful to have a female friend who will be honest go through your office and take notes. It may be difficult to hear, but if you want the women’s business, then your offices must be free of clutter and it must be clean.
The Consultation These are tips only – as the consultation should include education and information. You’re goal is to guide her to the solution that will work best for her and will meet her expectations, while building trust and credibility and excitement. Always sit across from her. Not behind a desk. You want to be at the same level as her. Sitting behind a desk or standing gives the impression that you have more power, and it will take much longer to gain her trust. If she brings her husband or other friend, I’ve found that the best thing to do is to bring her back to your consultation room alone, then ask if she would like her friend to be here. If she says yes, then they are telling you he/she is likely an important part of the decision process and it’s important that they be there during the consultation.
The Link The Voice of the AHLC
Step one
Build rapport. Thank her for coming and ask her how far away she lives (write this down.. this will help you later – especially if she is a laser candidate as she will need to commit to coming in frequently), ask her about her family, how long she has lived in the area, her job etc..
Step Two
Discovery. Use a consultation questionnaire to have a conversation about her hair loss. (If you don’t have one, contact your manufacturer for a sample one.) It is extremely insulting to have a woman complete an in “depth questionnaire” and then not even refer to it. Ask for permission to take notes and then do it. Women like to talk about feelings – so don’t be afraid to ask her how she feels about her hair loss. When did she start losing her hair? How did she first notice it? How did that make her feel? What was she hoping you could do for her when she came here today? LISTEN to her answers – let her talk, lean forward and do not get distracted! Ask follow up questions. Stay engaged and do not start thinking of your next question. Be mindful of your body language and pay attention to buying signals. If she’s is married, ask her about her husband; Does he know that she is here today? Has she told him how much her hair loss bothers her? Is he supportive of her desire to do something about her hair loss?
Step Three
Education. Include a hair and scalp analysis in every consultation. This is a great way to establish credibility. Women want information and education. First, show her healthy hair using a microscope like Proscope. In some cases where she is thinning all over, I show a section of my hair using the scope, allowing her to see the difference. Don’t be afraid to tell her that her hair loss is in a critical state and encourage her to do something about it now, before it gets worse. She needs, and wants to understand why this is happening. Explain DHT (Dihydrotestosterone make sure you know how to say it correctly) and its effects on hair follicles. Tell her that once a follicle is dead, nothing will bring it back.
This is where training is key! You and your staff should know how to bond hair systems without shaving. If you don’t, you must invest in training. Many women will eventually be OK with shaving for full head bonding or trimming the perimeter for perimeter bonding, but to most women, initially hearing this is terrifying. Explain that you are going to make the mold, get some hair samples and design her new hair. Tell her of the payment options and ask how she would like to pay. Once payment terms have been agreed upon, complete the consultation by making the mold and taking
Step Four
Identify Her Solution. After completing the education portion of the consultation, sit down again and go over each option. I like to cover everything and explain why that option would not work for her. For example: “Kathy, to be a good candidate for surgery, you would need to have plenty of donor hair available. We just looked at your hair loss and we saw that you have diffused hair loss, which means your hair is thinning all over. You also told me that you would like to have more volume Since you don’t have enough donor hair to meet your expectations, I do not recommend this as a solution. So, can we agree to take surgery off the table?” Once she agrees, move on to the next solution. Once you’ve gone through all options, and removed some, then make your “recommendation” based on her expectations. Build her excitement. Assure her that she is going to love her hair, and tell her why. Talk about color and the length that she wants. If she colors her hair to cover grey hair, tell her that her new hair doesn’t have to have grey! Her hair loss is over! She no longer needs to worry about camouflaging, because she is going to have her hair back, 24/7.
Step Five
The Close. Provide her with all necessary details of the solution you both decided on and the price. Do not hesitate. This is where I see many people lose the sale. You must believe in your prices and their value. She should be excited to understand that she will have her hair back. If you’ve decided on non-surgical hair replacement, I do not recommend that you shave her head. She may have done research and ask whether she needs to shave her head for this process. Your answer should be, “Absolutely not,” Kathy, most women do not want to have their hair cut down, because even though they know they are losing it. They want to hold on to their hair as long as possible. What is great about this procedure is we don’t need to do that. Some of our clients find later that they love their new hair so much that they ask us to trim their existing hair short, but it is not necessary.” If she understands the benefit of shaving her head, then it’s OK to recommend that for her, but be prepared for her to say “no,” and reassure her that she doesn’t need to do that.
hair samples. This will end her consultation in a positive way, with her feeling excited about her new hair. After the sale, keep in touch. Call her within 24 hours to thank her and give her an estimated delivery date. You might want to even schedule an appointment for her to come in while you’re waiting for her hair. Give her a free shampoo and style. Ask her to go through magazines and cut out styles she likes. Keep the excitement alive throughout the waiting period. If you are not currently in the women’s business, or if you are only
“accepting” women clients because the men’s business is down then I hope that you rethink your strategy. Make sure you look at all aspects of your business and get help in the areas you may need. There is training available for sales, operations and technical. Once your team is ready, find a good marketing program that will attract women, and then be prepared, because they will respond. By actively marketing to women with hair loss, you will not only increase your sales and profits, but you will also develop a very loyal client base with deep emotional ties to you and your business. The Link Issue 10, Summer 2014 15
Professional Hair Labs introduce the Phantom Pro Series Hair Care Range, the perfect combination of hair care products for everyday use on your hairpiece or wig. You invest a lot of time and money to ensure the best possible results from your hair, so invest in professional grade hair care products tio complete the process! Pro Series is the perfect finish for hair, leaving you with clean and vibrant hair without Sulfates or Parabens. The rich lather is eco-friendly and gently cleanses the hair fibers to remove dulling buildup. e tracts, Argan Oil The unique blend of natural ex and Panthenol revitalizes damaged hair with each wash. The Pro Series all in one spray conditioner adds control, shine and detangling with a single application. It provides just the right amount of control without weighing the hair down. Do Don’t let your hair down! Call us to find out more about the Pro Series hair care line.
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The Link The Voice of the AHLC
CUT IT OUT!
The Beauty Industry Rallies to End Domestic Violence By: Rachel Molepske, PBA Manager of Charitable Programs
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s a salon/industry professional, you encounter countless people from many different walks of life. The beauty of this industry is the diversity, the multitude of relationships and long-lasting friendships that are forged through the work you do on a daily basis. If you were made aware that one of your clients, friends, or co-worker was in trouble, would you help? What if a client or co-worker confided in you, and revealed that they are a victim of domestic violence? Would you even know what to do and how to help? These questions raised are extremely important and often times prove difficult to answer. The reality is that here in the United States, domestic violence is a horrible epidemic that has taken hold of many individuals. Research has shown that most battered women never call the police or go to a shelter. In the United States, battery is the single largest cause of injury to women, and accounts for 35% of women’s annual emergency room visits. However, they do usually talk about the abuse with someone they trust. For an abused woman, a salon may be an ideal environment to seek out help because it may be one of the few places she is allowed to go without her abuser. Salon professionals are skilled and experienced listeners who are personally interested in those around them, so many victims suffering from abuse feel comfortable confiding in them, even if they would never tell anyone else. This is one of the many reasons salons have rallied and are preparing to take on domestic abuse in an effort to make a difference and refer victims to get the help they desperately need. Salon professionals are in a unique position to recognize the signs and symptoms of abuse in their clients and
coworkers. Due to the intimate and nurturing nature of the relationship between salon professionals and their clients and coworkers, salon professionals can often spot signs of physical abuse that others may never see. With the amount of clients salon professionals come into contact with every month, they are potentially in the company of abused women often. Proper training on how to recognize the signs of abuse and knowing how to approach victims can make salon professionals invaluable and influential community partners in the fight against domestic abuse. Industry professionals are in the perfect position to safely refer victims to the proper resources, where they can gain the confidence and receive the help they need to put a stop to the abuse.
Helping Through CUT IT OUT The Professional Beauty Association’s (PBA) CUT IT OUT program is dedicated to mobilizing salon professionals across the U.S. to help put a stop to the epidemic of domestic abuse. The mission is to educate salon professionals to become more aware, have the ability to recognize potential signs of domestic abuse in their clients, coworkers, friends and family to safely refer them to local resources for help. CUT IT OUT builds awareness and creates a dialogue about domestic violence to actively help clients who are suffering from suspected abuse. Supplies, such as posters and safety cards, are distributed free to participating salons and are displayed at stylists’ workstations and in discreet locations, such as the restroom. These inconspicuous safety cards contain the information and phone number to the National Domestic Violence Hotline. CUT IT
OUT also encourages salons to support their local domestic violence shelters by organizing fundraisers, providing complimentary services to shelter residents, donating beauty products, or donating proceeds to local shelters and programs.
Education The CUT IT OUT program provides salon professionals with basic information on domestic violence and in-depth, specific information about how to respond to a client who may be the victim of abuse. Education seminars are targeted toward salons, cosmetology schools, and other venues. Educational materials are provided with everything needed to provide abuse victims with the proper assistance and referrals to helpful resources. Join The Professional Beauty Association (PBA) in fighting domestic abuse by ordering free materials for your salon, hosting a fundraiser, getting in touch with a local domestic abuse trainer, to learn more about the signs of abuse. Learn more at www.probeauty.org/cutitout. The Link Issue 10, Summer 2014 17
The Link The Voice of the AHLC
Eyelash Extensions A Rewarding and Profitable New Service
By: Jo Mousselli, RN, Co-Founder/CEO, Xtreme Lashes Eyelash Extensions
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ost women seek to have longer, fuller and darker eyelashes to enhance their beauty while minimizing their beauty regimen. Others seek semi-permanent eyelash extensions to counteract short, thinning and sparse eyelashes resulting from the aging process. Still others seek eyelash extensions to treat lash thinning and lash loss associated with medical conditions and chemotherapy.
other eyelash enhancing products do exist, only semi-permanent eyelash extensions can give your client’s custom designed, instant gratification and long lasting results with minimal maintenance. With so many lengths, thicknesses, colors and curvatures available, the looks that can be achieved can be from the most natural, to the most extreme without the hassles of mascara. And, regardless of which look
Eyelash extensions are comprised of individual synthetic fibers that are curved to replicate natural eyelashes. They are applied directly to individually isolated natural eyelashes, one extension at a time, using a specially formulated adhesive. Each application should be customized to suit the individual. Varying individual synthetic lash lengths are chosen to carefully replicate the shape and frame of a natural lash
Semi-permanent eyelash extension application is a non-invasive eyelash enhancing procedure that is safe, painless and relaxing. This eyelash enhancing procedure is recommended for those who want fuller, thicker, darker and more voluminous eyelashes, and especially those who have thin, short and sparse natural eyelashes. While
you are going for, if you combine quality eyelash extensions with proper application and high performance semi-permanent eyelash extension adhesive, the extended lashes will feel weightless and completely real. And, because they are semi-permanent the wearer can shower, swim, sleep and enjoy the extended lashes indefinitely with refills.
line. The number, length and thickness of the extensions applied is determined by the number, length and thickness of the natural lashes as well as personal preference. The overall effect is added length, curl, thickness, darker color, a more open and oval eye, added definition to the lash line and an overall more beautiful and more youthful effect.
18  The Link Issue 10, Summer 2014 
The Link The Voice of the AHLC Semi-permanent eyelash extensions can be very therapeutic to clients who suffer from conditions such as alopecia, trichotillomania and chemotherapy. These conditions often take a toll on a woman’s self-image affecting her self-esteem. Semi-permanent eyelash extensions applied by a compassionate and well-trained professional lash stylist can lift the spirits and self-esteem of patients that are suffering from these conditions. Using advanced techniques, a lash stylist can correct and bridge gaps in the lash line. A uniform and fan-shaped set of lashes can be built using the right lengths, thicknesses and curvatures. This even works for those whose lash line is very uneven due to frequent and premature natural lash loss and/or natural lash pulling resulting in uneven growth and crooked natural lashes. Because eyelash extensions are applied directly to existing natural lashes, a client must have sufficient natural lashes to receive the procedure. Those undergoing chemotherapy should wait until their chemotherapy sessions are complete and they are in remission to have eyelash extensions applied because their extended lashes will continue to shed prematurely while on chemotherapy. A main advantage of eyelash extensions is how much time that can be saved. With our busy lifestyles eyelash extensions allow the wearer to spend less time applying makeup. Because extended lashes are bigger at the base, they create the same effect as eyeliner so that step can be avoided as well. Overall, eyelash extensions will give the appearance of having put significant effort into eye makeup when, in reality, there is no time spent at all. The added benefit is waking up to beautiful eyes with extended lashes and enjoying them all day and all night without having to apply and remove mascara and without having to deal with the consequences such as stains around the eyes. With eyelash extensions the wearer can look and feel gorgeous from the moment they wake up until the moment they fall asleep, all with little to no effort.
How long do they last? Natural eyelashes grow in and fall out in cycles (every 60 -150 days). When a natural lash matures and falls out, a new lash has already been growing and quickly replaces it without us noticing the turnover. This process is constant and at any given moment our many natural lashes are at different stages of maturity. Some are just growing in, while others are ready to shed. People typically shed between one and five natural lashes each day, depending on their individual growth cycles. On shorter natural lashes, this growing and shedding cycle is virtually unnoticeable. With proper care and maintenance, touch-ups are typically only needed once every two to four weeks to replace the lashes that have shed. A stylist will add extensions to the newest mature natural lashes to maintain a full, lush appearance.
How long does it take? Depending on the expertise and experience of the lash stylist, and the number of lashes being applied, it generally takes between 120 to 150 minutes to apply a full set of eyelash extensions. Touch-ups can be done in as little as 45 to 60 minutes. There is no discomfort or pain involved in the procedure. In fact, most clients find it is so relaxing and comfortable that they fall asleep. Semi-permanent Eyelash extensions are for professional application only. And the process requires professional training in order to create safe, hygienic, and beautiful results. Only credentialed and licensed professionals in health and beauty who have had professional hands-on training and achieved verifiable certification from a reputable brand
should provide the service. An initial full set of semi-permanent eyelash extensions ranges from $200-400, relashes range from $75-150 at intervals of every two to four weeks based on the natural eyelash growth and extension shedding. If you are a studio wishing to provide semi-permanent eyelash extension services to your clientele, do your research, and partner with a manufacturing brand that provides a holistic, therapeutic and systematic approach to eyelash extension application with comprehensive education and training programs developed to be synergistic with compatible application products and end-consumer retail products. Application products and end consumer retail products are designed to work synergistically with one another enabling you to provide a service to your clients using well designed client consultation and design forms, detailed application guidelines, professional tools, sanitary and single-use application supplies with multiple curvatures, thicknesses and colors to enable you to custom-design looks that accommodate your customer’s desire as well as her eye shape and lifestyle. A strong brand will have a line of specially formulated consumer products to retail to your client to help her maintain and extend the longevity of her extended lashes. A quality company will provide same day shipping and live trouble-shooting support seven days a week, in addition to ongoing newsletters, online education and resources. By partnering with the right brand, providing semi-permanent eyelash extension services is rewarding and profitable.
The Link Issue 10, Summer 2014  19
AHLC Academy Class Listings Di Biase Hair, Extension Certification For a listing of scheduled certification classes throughout the U.S. please visit www.dibiasehairusa.com/pages/certification.html or call 248-489-8900. Follea 4C Workshops 6/22-24 Beverly Hills, CA 7/20-22 New York, NY www.follea.com/technical-education-4c-workshops With classes held regularly throughout the year, FOLLEA 4C Workshops are uniquely designed to allow FOLLEA salon professionals reach the highest level of expertise in handling the supremely natural European hair Next Generation Wigs and Topette Crown Extensions. Learn from our experts. The Care, Cut and Color classes were designed by a master stylist in collaboration with a professional scientist/educator to emphasize the specificities of working with top-quality human hair pieces. The final class, Customization explores all the options available and details about each unique collection. Call 310-821-2860 or email salon@follea.com.
New Image - NIU LIVE 2014 9/6-8, 10/4-6, 11/8-10 NIU LIVE 2014 Business Success Series, an exciting line-up of hands-on conferences, hosted in our new, state-of-the art facility in West Palm Beach, Florida. During this “business elevation series”, you will get to know New Image intimately and learn all there is to ensure the continued success of your hair replacement business. We will share with you new ways to gain and convert leads, teach you how to create new streams of revenue and show you how to upgrade your entire business. Choose the dates that work for you. This series is an investment well worth your time and money. Call 800-359-4247 to register. Thursdays With Jay: 6/12, 6/26, 7/10, 7/24, 8/7, 8/21 New Image hosts free educational webinars every second Thursday at 12.30 pm EST. Thirty minutes of hair inspiration can make a hair day so much better (and profitable). Tune in to success and join us for these free webinars. In the convenience of their studio or home, webinar attendees can learn from Jay Benjamin as he shares his vast experience and interviews special industry guests to discuss the latest hair and business trends. Call 800-359-4247 for registration details.
On Rite Regional Academies: 6/16, Philadelphia, PA 6/29-30, Denver, CO 8/25-25, Charlotte NC Hair Academy, Corporate Office, Ft. Lauderdale, FL 7/26-29 Four Day Men’s, Women’s and Medical Certification. Includes three days of hands-on men’s & women’s hair replacement plus a one day medical class. 7/26-28 Three Day Men’s and Women’s Hair Replacement. Class offers combined hands-on men’s and women’s hair replacement. 7/14, 9/15 One Day Ultratress, Ultrastrands and Ultralinks Extensions Class featuring our attachment methods: Ultra II plus & UltraTress II [pre-bonded], UltraLinks [cold fusion], and UltraStrands [heat fusion], Ultra Weft [braided or corn row]. 7/29 One Day Certification, Medical Hair Loss Class. Class covers understanding the medical market, choosing the right augmentation, alterations and customizing. This Gemtress/One-Day certification medical class is a Provider of Continuing Education (CE) registered and approved by the Board of Certification - Accreditation, International (BOC) and the American Board of Certification (ABC). Call 800-327-5555 for information.
The Link The Voice of the AHLC
“When the student is ready, the teacher will appear.” By: Les Porter, Owner, Western Maryland Hair Replacement Center
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started my journey in the beauty business over thirty-four years ago and have been a salon owner for almost thirty-one years. I had always been interested in wigs, hair systems and add-on’s for both men and women, but there was a big problem. I thought everything looked fake and unnatural. A lot has changed since then.
Previously, I had only used human hair and synthetics. Getting involved with Cyberhair was foreign to me, but what a great change this has been. I cannot thank Jen Brooks enough for thoroughly teaching and walking me through the process of getting to know the products and what would suit each client’s specific needs. I still have a lot to learn, but I know I will get there.
We all have some special clients that stand out, ones that just grab your heart and will not let go. It is people like Leslie Poling that gives me the motivation to serve my community and to help others. Making people happy and helping them feel better about themselves is what makes the hair replacement business so special.
A few years ago I was reading an article about hair replacement. My interest was piqued all over again. I began to research different companies, their products as well as educational and training opportunities.. My time had come to go into hair replacement, and I knew that education and training would be the key to my success. God has put some very special people and mentors in my path, and what a journey it has been. A whole new world opened up to me. At first, my salon began selling wigs, human hair add-ons and extensions. To my surprise, we did very well, not only helping the medical community, but also those ladies that just needed a little more hair that they did not have naturally. When you see smiles on faces and attitudes change right before your eyes, you get instant gratification. It is very addictive, to the point that you want to help so many people. For me, work is not work anymore. The AHLC Annual Conference is my most favorite event to attend. What an amazing group of professionals who are willing to share old ideas, new ideas and all of the new “stuff” that is on its way. I love being there to share information and to have the opportunity to ask lots of questions. I am so thankful for this great group who has definitely pointed me in the right direction.
Les Porter’s Client, Leslie Poling
In Leslie’s own words: After almost 25 years with a bald head, I feel pretty again. At the age of 19 (with a great hairdo), I was diagnosed with a brain tumor and lost all my crowning joy, my hair. The modern hair system has brought me back to life. I’m 43 now and can feel the old me coming through. My self-confidence is back. I can actually look people in the eye again. This hair system came to me when I had given up hope of ever finding a solution. Wearing a wig was not for me, and left me with so many, “what if’s.” My self-worth has risen so high, all because of this hair system and I know it will do the same for anyone else.
The Link Issue 10, Summer 2014 21
WE ASKED MANUFACTURERS: “WHAT’S YOUR BEST SELLERS & WHY?”
Change your life. Change your hair. Follea’s Motto
By: Holly Slear, Technical Director and Head Educator, Follea
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ne of our mottos at Follea is “Change your life, change your hair.” We aim to give women their best hair day, every day and specialize in supremely natural European wigs and top pieces for women. While many women without hair loss like to wear Follea for fashion, a majority of our clientele are women who are experiencing hair loss.
Gripper Cool
products. In wigs, the standout favorite by far is our Follea Gripper™ wigs. The Gripper was specifically designed for women with little to no hair of their own. This cap comes in six sizes, including XXXS and XXS for children. It has a special geometry to the base, which combined with medical grade silicone panels will stay on without tape or glue even through heavy movement. The Gripper is made with a lace top and small open lace front edge that replicates a natural hairline so it can be worn off the face and in updos. It features a lined, wefted back with an advanced design to prevent weft-show through that contours to the head. There are two stock versions of the Gripper, the Cool and the Sport. The Sport has added silicone along the wefts, which creates extra grip for children and people with active lifestyles. We find that a majority of the women wearing the Gripper are the women it was designed for, Alopecians. When we were creating the Gripper we enlisted the help of five hair replacement center owners who had alopecia themselves to test the cap and give their seal of approval.
For our women wearers, hair loss is understandably traumatic, therefore we spend many years designing bases specifically suited to their core needs so they can get their life back and stop worrying about their hair. To that end, a woman with a specific type of need often prefers our most popular 22 The Link Issue 10, Summer 2014
At the AHLC conference, we interviewed Twila Donnelly of Fantasia Salon named the Gripper her favorite. When asked why, Twila responded, “I’ve transferred people who have used the hard cap, the vacuum, into the Gripper because it stays on so well. Also, it is more lightweight and not so hot.”
We contacted some of the women who wear the Gripper and asked them to give feedback as well and their responses were overwhelming. We selected a few we thought were especially heartwarming to share. Tania, a woman living with alopecia totalis in Northern California wrote to tell us, “For the first time in decades I got to go in a convertible thanks to the Gripper and feel the wind in my hair again.” We heard from another alopecian further south. B.J. Cobb of Texas who wrote in depth, “I want to thank you for what you are doing changing lives one hairpiece at a time. I’m sixty-one and have worn hairpieces for over fifty years. I spent the first twelve years mostly in the hospital and have had a total of twenty-five surgeries on my head. The surgeries left me with no hair and lots of scars and dents. I started wearing wigs at ten years old. I am amazed how The Gripper stays put. I don’t have to worry about it slipping off. The hair is beautiful and I have received so many compliments since I started wearing The Gripper Cool. Thank you Follea, from the bottom of my heart!” On the other end of the hair loss spectrum, we have many clients with partial loss. The effects of female pattern baldness, hormonal changes, alopecia areata, PCOS and innumerable other conditions which cause hair loss in one in four women during their lifetimes. For these women, we created a collection of partial pieces called Topette® Crown Extensions, but usually known as Topettes.
The Voice of the AHLC The collection is made up of four different designs, two clip-in and two bonding bases. The most popular of the Topette designs is the TA115, a lightweight clip-in lace base with no polyurethane. The front edge is a thin folded lace for easy blending and there is monofilament ribbon around the rest of the piece to give it longevity. It is considered a ‘starter’ Topette and is
TA115 Toppette
most commonly worn by women in the beginning stages of hair loss due to its lightness and flexibility. During my interview with Twila at the AHLC conference, I asked her about her favorite partial piece. She smiled as she spoke, “Topettes, we love those. The TA115, because it’s clip in and the hair is so beautiful. They have the best hair, there’s no question about that. We’re seeing a lot more people with hormonal hair loss today and younger people. So, they don’t want a ‘wig’. So if you show them something like that they’re much more comfortable. They blend, they cut well and we can perm them. We can color them. The integrity of the hair is wonderful.” One of the benefits of creating partial pieces with European hair is the way they blend so naturally into biological hair due to the finer denier of the hair shaft. In addition, because the ponytail hair Follea uses comes in so many shades, we only have to color the hair 1-2 shades to match the color ring and never from dark to light. That leaves the integrity of the hair intact for the kind of salon work Twila mentioned.
Nikki, a client from Transitions of Australia in Surry Hills who wears the TA115, talked about how she regained her confidence with her Follea after her hair began thinning. “I chose the Topette because obviously I couldn’t have a full head of extensions because my hair is too fine. You would just be able to see the extensions through the hair. So I went for the Topette for just the easiness of being able to clip in and out every day. It’s just so easy to look after. You can’t even see where it starts. You can’t even feel it. When my friends actually met me, I said to one ‘have you noticed anything’? She said, ‘Yeah, you’ve had your hair done. You went darker.’ She didn’t actually notice it wasn’t my hair! I don’t think I want to take it off. I am much more confident in all situations now.”
Beyond that, our colorists train for up to two years to learn our proprietary colors, which span blacks, brunettes, reds and blondes in shades that not only look realistic out of the box, but are also designed so that the stylists who work with the hair can color it with salon color. We spend years perfecting our bases and colors to give clients the hair they truly desire and the ability to replicate their hair easily undetectably. One of our main goals is that no one ever has to know our clients are wearing hair unless they want them to, but instead are asked, “Who does your hair?” Gripper Sport
These stories are why we do what we do, but what makes Follea products different, is the quality of the raw materials and the expert craftsmanship. We use only high quality ponytail hair from Eastern European countries, double drawn so that the hair is a uniform length with no straggly ends. The luster, sheen, lightness and manageability of the hair alone stand out and the hair is even more beautiful after it is washed, but we don’t stop there in our desire to making life-changing wigs and partial pieces. We also import the best materials from France, Switzerland and Germany so that they are comfortable and stand the test of time. Since we have always owned and run our own factory, we train our artisans to make natural looking densities, so that our products never look “wiggy” They are also trained to make fine knotting and special ventilations so the top looks natural after parting as well. The Link Issue 10, Summer 2014 23
WE ASKED MANUFACTURERS: “WHAT’S YOUR BEST SELLERS & WHY?”
The Evolution of Georgie
From Wigs, to Extensions to Hair Replacement By: Shlomo Klein, VP, OSY Inc., Georgie Wigs, Xtensify
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n 1970, our company Georgie Wigs, started as a manufacturer of wigs for Jewish women. In 2006, we started to notice an increased interest in hair extensions, as both a hair replacement option and as a fashion statement for women. During this time, we approached the Walt Disney World Company and signed a licensing agreement to market a line of human hair extensions using Hannah Montana, High School Musical, Suite Life and Cheetah Girls as a brand label. We have always used human hair in our extension lines, but soon realized that there was a more consistent demand from the adult market, rather than the tween market, as they were satisfied with spending less money only on Synthetic hair at that time, due to their constantly changing fashion tastes.
Our custom order business grows every year and we continue to develop innovative new product lines, such as our MORIAH & HD line of multi-directional Virgin European Human Hair wigs. Originally, we felt that Microlink 24 The Link Issue 10, Summer 2014
extensions would be a safer extension method than fusion, as they caused less hair loss for the client. However, we quickly realized that fusion hair had a greater demand in the market and eventually became a major part of our business. In the past three years, the market has significantly moved to the tape-on method, what we call Charmed Hair.
There are a few reasons for this: 1. A full head application can be done in 45 minutes. 2. Removal can take as little as 5 minutes. 3. The hair can be reused up to two more times. 4. Because of the greater weight distribution of each piece of extension, there is less pull on the client’s own hair and obviously less hair loss for the client. 5. The extension lies flatter against the clients scalp and so is less noticeable. As we have seen, all new interest is now in the TapeOn (Charmed Hair) systems, But for experienced extension professionals, they too need to realize that their client needs have started to change! I was visiting some salons in a major metropolitan city recently. The first hair replacement specialist told me that she was just at a women’s support group for female cancer survivors the night before. There were over 70 attendees, all under the age of 40! I went to a second salon from there and happened to ask her if she noticed the same thing? Her response was that she does not even deal with cancer patients, rather her clients were now bringing in more and more of their teenage daughters that were showing early signs of hair loss! Whether this
trend is due to the overuse of extensions or as a by product of environmental causes (food, chemicals, etc.), we firmly believe that hairpieces and wigs will become a major growth area for the immediate future. As a hair replacement professional you already have seen this in your own clients. But have you marketed your services to new clients? Have you advertised to local salons letting them know that you can offer a commission for referring clients that are suffering from hair loss? Have you advertised to the general public that maybe they need to give their hair a rest from extension overuse and that you can provide an alternative for them? One of our highest revenue producing salons shared her secret with me recently. She dresses down in sweat pants, goes to the local hospital and places flyers offering coupon promotions in the areas where cancer patients are. As she explained, if she looks professional, the nurses will stop her and ask her what she is doing there. But if she dresses down, they think she is there visiting a patient and ignore her. The ultimate in guerilla marketing! Even something as simple as your stylists wearing a different color clip-on bang will get the conversation started with a client that may be ashamed to talk about her hair loss. Start incorporating new strategies in your salon marketing and watch your revenues grow!
The Voice of the AHLC
So, What Makes a Wig Kosher?
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n an effort to bring some clarity to the issue of kosher wigs, it is important to understand a brief history of Jewish women and wigs. The Talmud says that a married Jewish woman should cover her hair, as her own hair is a very private part of a women’s body and should be reserved only for her husband to see. Now this may be a little hard to understand, but if we step back and look at the fact that the women’s hair care market is a multi-billion dollar industry, and how much time and attention is given to women’s hair, it actually makes sense that for many people, the hair is the most attractive part of them (from a purely physical viewpoint). After all, when you walk down the street, you notice a women’s hairstyle, before any other part of her. This statement is not made in a chauvinistic way, but to only try and explain the root causes of this whole issue. Once we accept that, and why the Rabbi’s wanted women to cover their hair, we can then approach the Indian hair controversy. It is not unheard of for differing Rabbi’s to offer different opinions on the same matter and sides are obviously taken. Many Rabbis’ came out both in support of the ban and against it. In 1964, the greatest Rabbi in the world at the time, Rabbi Moses Feinstein from New York, was asked if Indian hair was okay to use on wigs. The problem was that Indian women were donating their hair as a gift offering in the temples to Buddha
and the Jewish religion frowns upon using any idol offerings in any way. Rabbi Feinstein stated that although the women were cutting off their hair as an offering to Buddha, the fact that the temple priests were using this ritual solely as a pretext to make money, this excluded it as a true idol offering. In 2006, Rabbi Elyashiv in Israel was approached with this question again. However, he decided that Indian hair was considered an idol offering and therefore banned it from use in wigs for Jewish women. In order to avoid any controversy, many Jewish wig companies (mine included) have refused to use Indian hair in our wigs, hairpieces and extensions. As such, we have a rabbinic authority that gives his seal of approval that our wigs are not made with Indian hair. This makes our wigs Kosher.
How can you sell to the Jewish market? Many hair replacement salons look at the Jewish market and see big dollar signs floating in front of them. After all, there is a lot of money spent by Jewish women on wigs, so how can you get a part of that? Here are some guidelines on how to market your business to this market segment. Don’t try putting and ad saying you sell kosher wigs and expect Jewish women to beat a path down to your door! These women have been wearing wigs for years, so have their sisters, mothers and best friends. They know prices better than you do. They also know where to go for the best pricing. Whether they fly into New York, Los Angeles, Chicago, Miami, Toronto or Israel, they are getting a better deal than you can offer them.
Instead of trying to sell wigs to them, sell your services instead!
Each woman needs a professional stylist to cut and style, dye, perm or fix problems with their wigs. You can do that. You are doing it already, aren’t you?
How do you let them know that you offer these services? Look up your local Jewish Orthodox temple, not Conservative or Reformed (they don’t wear wigs). Every temple maintains an e-mail list of all their congregants. For a nominal fee ($18 or $36), they will send a mass e-mail advertising your services.
When emailing it is important to include the following information: • You offer private fitting rooms. • You have female stylists (Jewish women won’t uncover their hair in front of men). • List your prices! Differentiate prices between short, medium or long hair wigs. • Look up a Jewish calendar, or ask your temple contact when the next Jewish holiday is. Offer discount pricing before the holidays. • Offer drop off service, where they can drop off the wigs and pick it up at a later date. • If you have a full service salon, then advertise mani/ pedi, massages, facials, etc. Jewish women want to be pampered as much as the next woman. Once you establish a rapport with your new customers, you can start selling wigs to them. Additionally, teenage Jewish girls are wearing extensions. You can sell them clip-on extensions (such as our 20” runway line), and explain to them that once they marry, you can use the hair from the extensions to sew into their wigs when they need to fill in missing hair on their wigs. The extensions must be Kosher as well! Finally, some women don’t use full wigs. Rather they use a topper. They call this “Kippah Falls” or “Yamulka Falls”. Start advertising and selling to them immediately. Our Multi-Top HH 20” is a very hot seller in this market. The Link Issue 10, Summer 2014 25
WE ASKED MANUFACTURERS: “WHAT’S YOUR BEST SELLERS & WHY?”
Meet Dimples
A Second-Generation Family Business
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By: James Todd, Dimples
n 1968 my father, Bijan Todd made the acquaintance of a young lady in Manchester, England. She had the most adorable Dimples. One day he asked her out. It turned out that she worked in a wig boutique. This was my father’s first introduction to wigs and hair pieces. Although he was never a hair stylist, he’s always been a great business man. He saw great opportunities in the hair replacement industry. Soon after, my father opened four wig boutiques across Northwest England and by the early 70’s diversified into manufacturing and wholesale. For decades, Dimples has been supplying Europe with medical wigs,
top pieces, hair systems and accessories. Our company has distributors in Spain, France, Italy, Germany, Greece and Scandinavia. In the UK, Dimples maintains government contracts with the British National Health Service hospitals and Christie hospitals, to supply medical wigs to patients in need. As a family business, Dimples maintains its British traditional values of quality and service. Today the company has two locations, Manchester, England and Los Angeles, CA. With a new focus, in 2014, Dimples USA launched natural hair solutions for women. From talking to customers in
Europe and the USA, we found there’s constant increased demand for women’s hair solutions. Since the massive popularity of hair extensions, the average female consumer has become more comfortable with hair additions. As a result, wigs and top pieces have become more socially acceptable. Women with or without hair loss are proudly buying wigs for fashion or for medical reasons. Technology has created great advancements in the production of top piece base and wig cap constructions. But, for many, the quest for finding superior natural hair continues. As a result, Dimples decided to create their lady’s wigs and top pieces in three different hair qualities: Bronze, Silver and Gold.
Bronze The Dimples Bronze Collection has natural, remy hair wigs and top pieces that are ready to wear, with beautiful rooted colors, highlights, low lights, and blended colors. The wigs are hand tied, medical grade wigs with lace fronts, non-slip silicone and double silk monofilament tops for comfort. The Bronze Collection also has a range of top pieces. The top pieces come in various hair lengths, from six to sixteen inches. The bases have been designed with several different materials and attachments, such as clips, PU for bonding, mono and lace for the flattest, most seamless attachment. “With their easy-to-style and comfortable fit, Dimples makes selling a fine quality wig a pleasure for the stylist and also for the client in need of a totally natural looking hairpiece. Mr. Todd has taken a step forward in today’s leading wigs and hairpieces.” – Barry Hendrickson, Owner, Bitz-N-Pieces, New York, NY “I ordered a top piece with a French top from Dimples. The unit was very well manufactured and designed. The European hair was at the best price point in comparison to the other manufacturers I’ve looked into. I have found that I have been able to get lengths from Dimples that were not achievable through other companies. More importantly, the customer service is exceptional, they are always willing to work with their clients.” – Angela Robinson Owner, ADR Creative Hair, Maitland, FL Kylie: Full Wig, Bronze in Toffee Crème Rooted
26 The Link Issue 10, Summer 2014
The Voice of the AHLC “I just opened up my new business, and I sold my first piece. I’ve been in and around the industry for seven years and I’ve dealt with plenty of hair before. This has been the first time I’ve been able to go home knowing that my customer has been taken care of, with the right top piece. She was so happy when I showed her the ‘Lacey’ Bronze Top Piece. It sits flatter than any top piece I’ve worked with. The hair is beautiful and the color was rooted with highlights, I didn’t have to do anything to it. I told my customer the price and she took it right away with no hesitation.” – Ronda Ceola, Owner, Pure Grace Wigs and Salon, Springdale, AR “I’ve been in the hair replacement industry for almost 27 years. I recently attended the American Hair Loss Council meeting in Florida to look for a better quality product. I found a company new to me by the name of Leading Man and Women/Dimples. The Bronze top pieces I found to be just the product I was looking for. My clientele have responded very well to the products. The quality of hair is amazing. It is easy to work with and does not tangle. I would highly recommend this company and its products.” – Leslie Robinson, Patient Coordinator/CEO, Mane Image, Merrivlle, IN Joy: Bronze Top Piece in Roasted Ginger Olivia: Bronze Full Wig in Coffee Dolce
Silver The Silver Collection was created for experienced hair stylists and colorists that demand superior hair, to custom color and cut. The Collection consists of wigs and top pieces in colored, natural European hair. The wigs are hand tied with French tops and the wig caps come in a selection of cap materials. All current top pieces also have French tops with clips. The clips can also be removed for bonding. The wigs are currently stocked with hair lengths ranging from: seven to nine inches short layered, ten inches long layered, twelve inches long layered and fourteen inches long layered. The Top pieces are stocked in hair lengths of 10, 14, and 18 inches. The base sizes for the top pieces include: 6x5 inches and 7.5x6.5 inches.
Gold
Michelle: Silver Full Wig, 12” Long Layered
The Dimples Gold Collection consists of natural Virgin European hair. This collection was designed for advanced hair stylists and colorists, that require the finest hair quality of hand tied wigs and top pieces. All wigs and top pieces come with French tops. The current hair lengths available are six, eight and ten inches for both wigs and top pieces. Wigs and top pieces are available in limited quantities. In addition to supplying the three distinct hair qualities of Bronze, Silver and Gold, Dimples also creates custom made wigs, top pieces and hair systems for men. Dimples also makes natural eyebrows in three different styles, in colors 2, 4, 6 and 8. Each natural hair is individually injected into a see through polyurethane base. The eyebrows are bonded using a water based copolymer. The bond can last up to four days. With proper care the eyebrows can last between four to six months. Julia: Gold Full Wig
The Link Issue 10, Summer 2014 27
WE ASKED MANUFACTURERS: “WHAT’S YOUR BEST SELLERS & WHY?”
Leading Hair Replacement Products for Women Inspired by All Stages of Women’s Hair Loss
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by: Lisa Minervini, VP Product Development & Branding, Jon Renau/easihair
air loss in women continues to be, a primary focus of the alternative hair industry. We have seen a shift in focus this past decade to the advancements in technology and design for women’s hair loss solutions. In society, hair defines so much of a woman’s appearance and who she is. It is viewed as our “statement to the world” and how we project and portray of ourselves. Manufacturers are challenged every day to create the most natural designs, as technicians and stylists work to perfect both their client’s look and confidence. For women, hair loss in any form can be one of the most traumatic experiences of her life. Whether losing their hair gradually over time, or suddenly, it can be the most difficult thing to face and deal with. We frequently hear of women facing chemotherapy and/or radiation treatments and their main concern isn’t beating the disease, but rather “what about my hair?” The thought of facing their families, coworkers, even a mirror without their hair, is absolutely daunting and is sometimes their biggest challenge to overcome. Many women feel that their doctor will be the one to fix their health, but who is going to fix their hair loss? We have seen the need for support for all types of hair loss, ranging from medical, alopecia, trichotillomania, as well as genetically predisposed hair loss. Each client is unique and each circumstance requires a specific solution. With the different stages of hair loss, we find that there is never one “fix all” product. A woman with fine, thin hair, whose hair loss is gradual, may only require a temporary, partial attachment. Others with more advanced stages of loss usually require a larger base design with a more permanent attachment. Whatever the situation, there is always a solution. From factory to manufacturer, from technician/stylist to client, each design is created with the end result in mind; natural, high-quality, solutions. 28 The Link Issue 10, Summer 2014
easiPart
easiPart was inspired by a young girl with trichotillomania, who was primarily pulling her hair out from the top of the crown. Classmates were less than empathetic to her condition and made her school days nearly unbearable. Her mother had taken her to a hair replacement studio where they were trying to fit her with a top of the head system. Because the young girl was so petite in size, every piece seemed to bombard her small figure and looked unnatural for a girl of her age. The base designs were all far too large and the density was not realistic. This dilemma was what challenged us to create something for this specific situation. easiPart was created to give full coverage of the part area at the top of the head, with an “easi” clip on attachment. Clients seeking to disguise the early stages of hair loss, alopecia areata, or simply for fashion find easiPart to be a perfect solution.
2/3 French
This base design was created for client’s with the more advanced stages of hair loss, giving the client coverage of 2/3’s of the head. The French knotting technology gives the appearance of natural follicular growth with multi-directional parting and the interior silk lining provides ultimate comfort and protection to the hand-tied knots. The fine monofilament is coated with polyurethane around the perimeter for both durability and bonding purposes. This then transitions to a “thin skin” polyurethane base at the front hairline, for a seamless, natural look.
The Voice of the AHLC
SmartLace 100% Hand tied
When The SmartLace Collection was launched in 2010, it proved to be our largest and most successful launch. Lace front systems have been a huge part of base designs in the industry, offering the client a natural looking hairline with multiple styling options. The advancements of base materials is what led to the design of SmartLace; to give the client the option of a natural hairline, without having to cut, bond, or frequently repair the lace front. The pre-cut welded lace will give more durability compared to finer lace materials (Swiss and French lace) used previously.
Top Form
Top Form is a top of the head base design with a clip on attachment method, designed for the beginning to mid/ advanced stages of hair loss. The base size is large enough to give full coverage of the top of the head, allowing the hair to splay across and over the crown area of the head. The polyurethane perimeter gives durability to base, allowing it to lie seamlessly to the head shape. The pressure-sensitive clips allow easy attachment, however they can be removed to allow for semi-permanent perimeter bonding as the client’s hair loss progresses.
“Wearing a wig helps me feel accepted in society, but I’ve worn horrible wigs most of my life - they never fit or looked right! Being a part of developing the Evolution Collection means a lot to me. It feels amazing to give feedback on this line, knowing it will help others in many ways.” – Melisssa Porras
Evolution
Coming June 2014! This design is bridging the hair replacement center and the wig shop, giving the best of both worlds. Clients with permanent hair loss, specifically alopecia, inspired Evolution. This base design has been tested for over a year now and the process was both enlightening and challenging. We reached out to four of our clients who have alopecia, two of which are hair replacement technicians. We wanted to create a base that was not only natural, but with the upmost comfort for the wearer. We met with our “testers” every week for 8 weeks at a time where we collected their reports and feedback. The quarterly testing phases allowed us to make improvements and advancements upon the next design, with each of the tester’s suggestions and requests. The invaluable information during the design phase allowed the evolvement of the system and created the perfect system for permanent hair loss. The Link Issue 10, Summer 2014 29
WE ASKED MANUFACTURERS: “WHAT’S YOUR BEST SELLERS & WHY?”
Alexia and Friends Anything but Average
By: Elvira Amankwa, CMP, Marketing Manager, New Image Labs
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ophistication comes in many facets. For some it’s style, for some it’s chic, for some it’s elegance, for some it’s comfort, for some it’s security. For some it’s all of that. Through decades of research and development, New Image has emerged as an industry leader in providing today’s demanding female clients with some of the world’s most sophisticated hair replacement solutions. Many are hailed in the industry as “better than a natural head of hair”. The unwavering commitment to excellence has bridged the gap between ordinary and extraordinary. New Image understands that hair is an integral part of a woman’s natural beauty and intricately linked to a woman’s self-confidence and self-esteem. That’s why we believe only the best is good enough to restore a woman back to beauty. Innovative base design for comfort and security, superior hair quality for style, as well as stunning color shades inspired by the runways of Paris and Milan for chic - all form a perfect match to cater to today’s sophisticated woman who wants it all.
The most common type of hair loss seen in women is female pattern hair loss, also known as androgenic alopecia, where the hair is thinning predominantly over the top and on the sides of the head. Therefore 30 The Link Issue 10, Summer 2014
roughly 75 % of all women who suffer from hair loss do not require a full-cap system to take care of their hair loss problem. A versatile top-of-the-head hair replacement option is the way to go, as the client’s own hair can be used to create that undetectable look. Quantum 6 from New Image answers the call and is bound to exceed your female client’s expectations. If you are a true “hair architect” you will enjoy working with this hair replacement solution, as it will allow you to design a most natural hairline. Quantum 6 is made out of human hair in vibrant shades from L1 to L6. Gray is a man-made fiber. A limited color selection is available with ethnic textures. The hair length is 12” which provides many versatile styling options. Density is light/medium and Quantum 6 is recommended for extended wear and daily wear. With 6 to 8 hair replacement solutions per year, Quantum 6 provides excellent value for the demanding female client with androgenic alopecia. It has enjoyed ongoing popularity amongst national and international clients alike and is to date one of New Image’s most popular female hair replacement solutions. In Greek,” Alexia” means “absence of” or “without”. In hair replacement, New Image has turned this around. Thanks to one of New Image’s most popular medical women’s systems called “Alexia”, many women have found new hope and restored self-confidence. Some women would go as far as to say that with Alexia, they have found new life. In the absence of their own natural hair, with Alexia, they have found a hair replacement solution that comes so close to their natural hair that it makes all the difference in their life, allowing them to feel beautiful and whole again. Known as a hair loss alternative for medical conditions, Alexia is geared towards
The Voice of the AHLC clients with medical needs. The base is a state-of-the-art construction and thanks to the new non-slip Flex Form technology, it provides superior comfort and fit and can be fully customized. For a most natural look, it is made out of human hair and comes in 19 stunning colors. Gray is a man-made fiber. Standard texture for this hair replacement solution is a light wave, but Alexia is also available in limited colors with ethnic textures. Depending on your clients’ needs, it comes in 8” and 14” hair length. The density is light/medium. Clients appreciate the Freestyle, which provides great versatility and allows unlimited styling options. Medical hair loss does not know any age and the number of young clients in need of natural-looking hair loss solutions is increasing. Moved by compassion, New Image decided to make this popular hair system available also to children. That’s why Alexia is often referred to as “the young hair loss solution from New Image”. To help satisfy the special needs of young clients, Alexia is also available in 17” and 19” circumference and the ideal hair replacement solution for children, pre-teens, teens and young adults. With 3 to 4 hair replacement solutions per year, Alexia provides excellent value for your medical needs clients. Which means one less thing for them to worry about. Or as one satisfied end user puts it “With Alexia, I can look and feel beautiful again. Alexia has given me back what I thought is lost forever: a full head of hair. I totally love it. Alexia has restored my hope and confidence.”
The Link Issue 10, Summer 2014 31
WE ASKED MANUFACTURERS: “WHAT’S YOUR BEST SELLERS & WHY?”
Understanding Wigs From the Inside Out
By: Alan Eaton and Scott Walmsley, Envy Hair, LLC
W
ig designing has evolved rapidly in the last 10 years. The materials and technology incorporated into the product are far more sophisticated today than ever before. The art and science of wig form requires much more design and engineering knowledge to create a great natural looking wig. Done properly, it is almost impossible to identify a person wearing a wig from a person with natural hair. Of course, the look needs to be perfected by the in-house technician to ensure the client is fitted properly and is educated on how to brush, clean, style and reattach the wig daily to keep the hair looking its best. Designers have created four categories of cap construction to meet the needs of all wig wearers, each with advantages and unique features to be aware of when selecting a wig for client use.
Cap Configurations The features of the cap that secures the synthetic or human hair fiber can be used to categorize wigs. The cap is designed to create a specific look and or to meet a cost profile in the market to satisfy a range of affordability for the clients. The four primary types of cap configurations are:
Standard Wefted / Open Cap
The standard weft cap is the most basic of designs. It is a wefted construction where synthetic hair is machine sewn into strips of weft material. Wefts are narrow strips of material that have fiber or hair aligned in the same direction and sewn into it at one end. Wefts are then joined together to form a base cap. They are connected in horizontal planes going back and forth to form the cap. By overlapping layers of hair wefts the designer is able to simulate natural hair growth. The base lining is usually a floral patterned net material. The weft design is both durable and affordable. As a result of the method of connecting the wefts, the cap is very breathable. The cap’s styling is ready to wear right out of the box, and lends itself to minimal maintenance to keep its shape. The cap construction promotes a cost effective design, however style versatility is limited. A variation of the standard wefted cap is the open cap design, also known as capless. To be clear “capless” is not really without a cap. The base structure does not incorporate any flower net material in the top section of the cap. This is why technicians have a tendency to refer to these wigs as capless. This configuration provides a lighter weight finished product with better air circulation. Most clients prefer a capless construction since the preference of a lighter cap gives more comfort to the wearer. Some open cap wigs may be secured with tape, medical adhesive and/or clips, although new advancements in stretch base cap materials allows some cap constructions with elastic coated sides that create a comfortable full time pressure fit. Many open cap wigs are designed with straps at the nape (back
32 The Link Issue 10, Summer 2014
lower neck area) to allow the wig to be adjusted for a better fit. The open cap design improves comfort, and ensures maximum breathability.
Monofilament Top
Monofilament Part
Monofilament wig designs incorporate the mono material at the top of the head or part area of the cap. This allows hand ventilation (knotting) of these areas to create a very natural look during manufacturing. Each synthetic fiber or human hair strand is individually hand tied into the monofilament material as such that it appears to “grow” out of the base scalp area. Individual knotting allows each strand to move naturally and allows the technician and the client to adjust the part and style of the hair on some styles. However, recently the increased desire for lightweight wigs has lessened style flexibility somewhat. Fiber is typically reduced from all areas of the cap except the part section to provide for better coverage. Monofilament wigs are the top choice
The Voice of the AHLC for clients who are searching for a natural look while wearing alternative hair. To accommodate a variety of alternate styles, monofilament wigs may have the mono material take on different shapes and be located in different areas of the base cap. Styles that require a more natural looking and moving part on the left or right side will have mono material sewn to the cap in that area. Many hairstyles do not require 100% monofilament coverage to achieve a stunning look. Hand tied monofilament designs locate the mono material in just the part or crown area. Originally created for the medical market, monofilament wigs are considered one of the best products for women who have experienced significant hair loss due to chemotherapy, alopecia, or other medical reasons and that may also have sensitive scalps. The monofilament wig is very natural in appearance and incredibly versatile in the ability to change style day to day depending on the mood of the wearer. Coincident with the labor-intensive manufacturing process to hand tie areas of the caps, these wigs are expensive.
Lace Front
Designers may create a lace front that extends from temple to temple or from ear to ear. The style and costs will determine the size of the added lace front area. It is not uncommon for clients to have the lace front section altered by trimming some of the front area. A skilled technician should do this work. The lace front may be attached with medical adhesive to make the look completely undetectable however, this is not necessary given the fine material that is used to manufacture lace front wigs today.
Fully Hand Tied (Synthetic or Human Hair)
Envy Wigs manufactures wigs in each of the above cap configurations. Although the global marketplace demonstrates an affinity for styles within each category there are demand differences between countries and specific regions within countries. Not surprisingly, given the relatively stronger wealth (and the improving economic conditions) in North America, the demand for fully hand tied wigs is increasing rapidly. Sales growth of these designs is increasing at a faster rate relative to any other wig category. Further, within the hand tied category the demand for human hair wigs is now rivaling synthetic fiber. Wig wearers are well schooled to discern high quality products and seem willing to accept the high cost of top quality hair. Tastes are more refined than ever and as such consumers expect today’s wigs to replicate natural style. At Envy all styles are designed to look and feel as natural as possible.
Fully hand tied wigs are the most technologically sophisticated wigs in the market. Each individual strand of hair or fiber is hand tied into the base cap to create a fully natural look. The hair appears to be growing out of the scalp and the movement replicates natural human hair. The base material is so fine that when the hair is separated the scalp appears to show through. The full cap, front, crown, sides and back, is hand tied, not just a specific area.
Lace Front wigs were created to allow clients to wear their hair off the face. First created for hair replacement products, wig designers saw an opportunity to give the alternative hair clients the same flexibility of style. Technically the lace front can be added to any base cap configuration to create a premium natural looking hairline. When combined with monofilament hand knotted construction, lace front wigs are generally the most expensive and natural looking wigs available.
Demand Trends
Progressive manufactures design a variety of fully hand tied wigs to incorporate the latest in fiber, human hair and fiber / human hair blends. These premium designs are easily styled, generally have the best fit and most authentic finished look of all constructions. The amount of hand fabrication translates into a high labor cost. The materials used are top quality and strive to be as close to the natural look as possible, and therefore are the most expensive available.
Closely following the hand tied category in sales volume are lace front wigs. This is likely due, in part, to the importance of style flexibility. Clients want to be able to alter the look of their hair especially those that are every day alternative hair wearers. Monofilament and standard weft wig sales follow third and fourth respectively. Color and style are critical factors for consumers deciding on specific wig design within each category after deciding on cost. It is the responsibility of the designer to follow global fashion trends closely and to prepare for upcoming consumer taste changes. We review emerging color and hairstyles appearing in major fashion capitals for trends and we believe the key to success is wearable fashion. In the wig industry, trends can come and go faster than relevant styles can be produced. It is also important for a designer to introduce styles with stamina and longevity. Envy launches new designs semiannually to ensure products are current and customers are served with a balance of the latest and most enduring styles in the industry. The Link Issue 10, Summer 2014  33
Catching up with Brianna
We Hear Congratulations are in Order!
PERÜCKEN / WIGS
MODERN HAIR COLLECTION
SIMPLY THE BEST! Richard N. Kaufman 249 Allenwood Drive Lauderdale-by-the-Sea, FL 33308 (617) 620-6274 rnkaufman@att.net www.gisela-mayer.com
By: Brianna Crochunis, Issue 5 Covergirl Wearing hair has given me more confidence in myself, than I ever thought I would have. Especially, since I never had any confidence in myself what so ever. I always disliked myself, but my hair system changed my life significantly. I am ever so thankful for Betty Ann Bugden, her staff and Children With Hair Loss. They have given me much more than I thought possible. I graduated college as a Certified Phlebotomy Technician, in April 2014. I enjoy phlebotomy and aspire to be great in my chosen career. Once while in college when asked what my greatest achievement was. I answered, “Writing an article and being published in a hair loss magazine.” I was so delighted to know that people who try to help others in my situation as well as people who suffer with hair loss like me read my article. Hopefully my article changed their outlook on life and confidence in themselves. Of course, being asked to write another article was an even greater achievement. I hope to be a great influence to anyone going through hair loss, and hope that they all find the confidence in themselves to embrace it.
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The Link The Voice of the AHLC
#HairForHazel
Actress Donates Hair, Donating to CWHL Goes Viral. By: Risa Balayem, for Children With Hair Loss In August, 2013, actress Shailene Woodley began preparations to begin filming her role in the film, The Fault In Our Stars (TFiOS), based on the heartbreaking novel by John Green. Her character in the movie, Hazel Grace Lancaster, is a 16-year-old living with terminal cancer, and is described in the book as having a “pageboy” haircut. In an effort to embrace her role, Shailene cut her long, beautiful locks, which were as well known to her fans, as were her previous roles in The Spectacular Now and The Descendants. Prior to her haircut, Shailene researched organizations to which she might be able to donate her hair, and subsequently announced on her Tumblr site, http://alohaimshai.tumblr.com/ post/58274550495/hairforhazel that she was honored to be able to donate her locks to Children With Hair Loss (CWHL), a “wonderful organization who [would] then create a wig for someone in need.” Shailene didn’t stop there. She went on to rally her fans and followers to also consider donating their hair to CWHL and post about it on social sites using the hashtags: #HairForHazel and #ItGrowsBack. Also in her Tumblr post, Shailene describes her “personal relationship with [her] hair” and the spectrum of feelings that she underwent – those of strength, beauty and power that she attributed to her long, flowing locks – to her eventual “freedom” and being able to allow her “face to shine without hair blocking it.” After Shailene announced her intentions to cut her hair, Green shared her story with his Tumblr followers http://fishingboatproceeds.tumblr. com/post/58173409309/shailenewoodley-is-cutting-her-hair-thisweekend, saying, “When Shailene told me about this, I immediately thought
there might be people…who [would] want to join her.” Almost immediately after his post, girls across the country began to post photos of their newlycropped locks in support of Shailene’s movement on Twitter that included CWHL’s Twitter username @CWHL_org and the hashtags #HairForHazel and #ItGrowsBack. Some had planned to donate their hair for years, but it was the push from Woodley that convinced many of them to take the plunge. Thanks to Shailene and John Green, over the past several months Children With Hair Loss has enjoyed extended recognition due to their #HairForHazel, #ItGrowsBack and #TFiOS campaigns. Hair donations continue to be sent into CWHL Headquarters from all over the U.S. and from several other countries around the world in honor of Hazel Grace Lancaster. The film, The Fault In Our Stars, is due to be released in theaters on June 6, 2014. Follow @ShaileneWoodley; @RealJohnGreen and @CWHL_org on Twitter.
Fans follow suit on Twitter, cutting and donating their hair and sporting their shorter locks.
The Link Issue 10, Summer 2014 37
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The Link The Voice of the AHLC
Member Spotlight
Anthony Santangelo, Owner, AMS Designs, Chicago
I
first started in the hair business by mistake but once I was involved I loved it. After a number of years doing hair in a salon, that at the time was one of “Chicago’s Top Salons,” and blowing my chance to work for Vidal Sassoon, I accidentally got into the hair replacement business. A family member was given one of those wigs from the back of a magazine, it looked atrocious but he liked the thought of having hair. So I searched out a way to get him something that looked better and more realistic. The next thing I knew, I was in the hair replacement business. After a couple years I left the industry to explore other options and soon found myself back in the business. I met Tony Martingilio, who would become my friend and colleague. While working with Tony we met a very charismatic and determined man named was Andy Wright and that’s when things really took off. Throughout the late seventies, eighties and into the nineties the men’s hair replacement business was amazing. The products seemed to get better every year and the innovations and evolution of the industry was huge. When I opened my studio we quickly went from taping on majority of our client’s hair to bonding. The most significant change was kind of a return to my roots, women started wearing hair again and not just for fun. They needed it.
In the middle of this boom I heard about new organization that was just starting named the American Hair Loss Council. Being on the board of directors for The Chicago Cosmetologists Association I was intrigued so I checked them out. From what I saw, I knew I
had to be involved and in no time I was on the board of the AHLC and eventually became president. The concept of the AHLC was to bring together all the facets of the hair replacement industry while educating and informing the public about treatments and options available. The AHLC evolved into a very
American Hairlines and Taylormade as a presenter and educator at many of their events. While serving on the board of the AHLC I became very good friends with Greg Taylor. Together, we developed designs specifically for this newly evolving women’s market. We created a phenomenal line of women’s full wigs, top of the head pieces and an integration that I think is still one of the best. We also developed a full wet line to compliment the hair. We traveled overseas to find the best outlet to make our products and ultimately settled on China. Once we found the right facility we taught them the little intricacies it takes to product a great finished product. Greg and I also travel all across the United States teaching studio owners and their staff how to cut, style and color the hair so they could elevate their businesses to the next level. Today, I look back on those years with great fondness; I think about the heyday, when almost everyone in the business could say (myself included) they were doing this celebrity or that celebrity and wish it was as easy as it was then but today’s market is very different. Today there is little left to the imagination, today the client knows almost as much as we do, so you had truly better know what you are doing.
successful entity that not only informed the public but educated and brought together some of the best in the industry. We worked our butts off to make it happen, not to take anything away from all the hard work and the wonderful job the board is doing today. My belief in education and giving back has afforded me the privilege to work with and for such companies as On-Rite, New Image,
Today’s client expects so much more and is constantly evolving and changing, if you’re not up to the task they know it. I love this business and am so glad for all the mistakes I made that brought me here. We get to make people happy every time we see them and we get to make dreams come true. I wouldn’t change a thing about my life’s path. The Link Issue 10, Summer 2014 39
The Link The Voice of the AHLC
Welcome New Members! Sylvia Caruso Wigs by Sylvia, Saugus, MA I have been in the industry for 40 years and at 17 while in college took a summer job at a wig factory. That was a direction that brought me to where I am now. When I became a hairdresser I trained in designing custom hairpieces, and then brought wigs into my salon to help women going through cancer treatment, alopecia, and trichotillomania. I am connected with several insurance companies and provide my clients with the ability to not have to worry about how to pay for their wig, because I bill the insurance companies directly. My own experience with hair loss from chemotherapy has helped many women deal with the sudden loss and shock of losing their hair. Whether it is a man or a woman, there is no better feeling than to see that person look in the mirror, see themselves with hair, and feel good about themselves again. Deborah Ellis Euphoria Spa & Wellness Center Avon, IN Deborah Ellis is a Licensed Cosmetologist and Esthetician in Avon, IN. For the past 10 years she has owned and operated Euphoria Spa & Wellness Center, and works closely with clients undergoing chemotherapy-related hair loss. Deborah is new to the hair replacement industry and welcomes the opportunity to learn from the seasoned professionals involved with AHLC. Danielle Grillo Transitions Hair Solutions Wall Township, NJ I have been in the hair replacement industry for 20 years. At my hair replacement center, Transitions Hair Solutions, we specialize in various non-surgical hair loss solutions for women, men and children. Continuing education is very important to us. We constantly strive to stay informed and on top of what is new in the industry. It is a priority for us to bring the absolute best quality solution to our clients. We are excited to be a part of the American Hair Loss Council and look forward to working with other members. Kent Marlowe Marlowe’s Executive Hair Spartanburg, SC Kent started his barbering career in 1977. He established Marlowe’s Executive Hair, barbering services for the professional, which transitioned into his passion of hair replacement for men and women. Continuing education and training in the industry allows his clients to benefit from the latest styles and techniques. He is married to his high school sweetheart, Carolyn, of thirty-seven years. He has two daughters, two sons-in-laws and is “Poppy” to two grandchildren.
40 The Link Issue 10, Summer 2014
Bryan Harrold B Hairy, Rancho Bernardo, CA I have been a hair stylist in the Rancho Bernardo, San Diego community for over 30 years, owning my own salon for 25 years. I have incorporated non-surgical hair replacement into my business and have specialized training in both men’s and women’s non- surgical hair replacement. Having worn hair myself for 18 years, I understand well, the psychology and importance of looking your best and feeling confident with a full head of real and healthy hair. My goal is to create a hair replacement experience for each of my clients, which utilizes superior, quality, natural, human hair, along with my personal, on-going service to maintain their hair. I want to make sure my clients have a consistently positive and confident feeling after every appointment. Therese Hughes, MBE Tresses, Northern Ireland In 1998, after 18 years of standing styling, cutting and blow-drying, Therese closed her hairdressing salon for good. She decided to change direction and Tresses Hairpiece Boutique was born. Tresses has come a long way to becoming Ireland’s leading Hairpiece boutique with outlets in both Belfast & Newry. Tresses greatest achievement to date happened in 2008, with Therese receiving the prestigious award of MBE from her Majesty the Queen. This was in recognition for Therese’s outstanding contribution to National Health Service patients in Northern Ireland suffering from effects of chemotherapy and alopecia. Therese gets great satisfaction on a daily basis, when she sees her patients with their new hairpieces. They often come in in a very fragile state, suffering from the effects of chemotherapy or alopecia. When they leave, they have a big smile, their dignity and confidence to face the world. Christal Mercier Hair by Christal LLC, Missouri City, TX Specializing in damaged hair, Christal has been in the hair care industry 30 years and in hair replacement for 19. She founded and is the CEO of the non-profit organization, Hair Dreams by Christal Inc. In 2008, her sister Timothy, fondly-known as Dena, had hair loss, was later diagnosed with and passed away from breast cancer in 2009. Dena never wanted anyone to see her without hair, she was so depressed and withdrawn. Individuals suffering from extreme hair loss or baldness are all too familiar with the pitfalls of low self-esteem. Christal promised her sister that she would give her and others like her, that suffer from hair loss, the opportunity to feel good about themselves again. Christal’s goal is to alleviate the pain and suffering associated with hair loss by enhancing the appearance of these individuals with a non-surgical hair replacement system or weave, thereby, simultaneously rebuilding a renewed self image. Her motto is: “You can be sick, but you don’t have to look sick. You can have hair loss and no one has to know it.”
The Link The Voice of the AHLC
To become a member or renew contact Betty Ann Bugden, Membership Director, 570-462-1101 or log on to AHLC.org.
Sherri Romm Versacchi Hair & Face Courture, Owings Mills, MD A graduate from both Fine Arts of the Maryland Institute College of Art and Computer Engineering from University of Maryland, Sherri combined her artistic and technical aptitude to become a sought-after hair designer when she incorporated the Versacchi name in 1994. Versacchi has received numerous awards and recognitions including the Baltimore Magazine Best Specialty Salon, Top Salon, Top Women Under 40, Washington Business Journal, and Top Women in Business. Sherri recently released a hand-crafted collection representing the pinnacle of human hair enhancements for their modern design, natural appearance, and simplicity - Sherri Renee French Enhancer Collection - including flash enhancers, partials, bangs, falls, ponytails, crowns and extensions. LaDonna Roye Ladonna Roye, Naples, FL After 36 years in the “traditional” hair industry I could easily be “burned out” but a few years ago I went to my first hair replacement conference. It was during that conference that neurons started firing in my brain. I was exposed to things I had never seen in a regular hair salon. Today so many women and men are experiencing hair loss and I learned I could help them. Once we started offering wigs and other forms of hair replacement in our salon we began to see people who needed them because of medically related hair loss. This is my biggest passion. Helping people to be happy about what they see in the mirror. Jeanne Sheldon Allusions Cincinnati, Ohio In 2002, after 25 years working in retail, my husband and I decided it was time for a change. At the time a dear friend was going through chemotherapy and she asked me to help her select a wig. She knew I’d helped both my mother and sister through chemotherapy, and my interest in both fashion and style. We visited Allusions, and while I had very little working knowledge of the process, I was quite impressed by the scope of their work, and the impact it had on their clients. When we left the salon my friend was thrilled with her new look, and I was impressed by her beauty and self-confidence. My husband and I purchased the salon shortly after this experience. Allusions does all types of Hair Replacement with a special focus on women. Now, 11 years later, with a beautiful facility and an incredible staff, I can’t imagine doing anything else with my life. I’ve been humbled and touched by so many of the men and women at Allusions, and I look forward to the next 11 years! I look forward to my membership in the American Hair Loss Council and networking with all of the members.
Tony Smith Tony’s HRS, Columbia SC Since 1976, Tony Smith has been assisting his clients with their hair loss needs in Columbia, South Carolina and the surrounding areas. As a founding member of HRS, and continuing member until its dissolution, Tony’s hands on approach has led to a family atmosphere while being a leader in a technical business and rapidly changing market. Having built a young, energetic staff with many years of experience, Tony is looking forward to continued success with male clients while reaching out to women and children suffering medical hair loss throughout the Carolinas. Nadwa Yono Nadwa Hair Spa, Bloomfield, MI Nadwa Yono is the owner of Nadwa Hair Spa, the most high-tech and innovative salon and spa. Nadwa is nationally recognized for hair, color, hair attachments, wigs, wellness and as a fashion expert with more than twenty-eight years of professional experience. Nadwa’s true passion in hair involves hair attachments, wigs, and extensions. Nadwa is among the less than 4% of hairdressers in the United States to perform these specific types of attachments and services. Nadwa has studied all over the United States and abroad for these types of attachments, wigs, and extensions. Evolve, Willings International The Evolve Volumizer is a wearable solution for women with hair loss or fine and thinning hair. It is a non-surgical hair integration system, which provides volume at the top and crown of the head. The system is non-damaging to the natural hair and scalp. No chemicals or adhesives are required. The Evolve Volumizer is designed specifically for women and can be worn naturally day and night for 4-5 weeks and then just reset at the salon by certified stylists. The Volumizer looks and feel totally natural and is comfortable to wear. The Evolve Volumizer is customized for each client by selecting the color, texture and density during a professional consultation. Salons/stylist must be certified via training. However, purchasing and caring inventory is not required. For more information go to www.evolvinghair.com Theradome is redefining scalp and hair care by taking clinically proven light-based aesthetic medical technologies out of the clinical setting and bringing them into the home. Our easy-to-use, FDAcleared medical devices deliver results comparable to professional aesthetic treatments at a fraction of the cost. The Theradome LH80 PRO, the first and only FDA Over-The-Counter (OTC) cleared wearable laser delivers easy to use clinical-grade results at affordable pricing in the convenience and privacy of the home. Learn more at www.theradome.com
The Link Issue 10, Summer 2014 41
Tricks of the Trade How to Measure the Head for a Wig By: Richard N. Kaufman, Euro Hair Imports
A wig is only good if it looks natural and feels comfortable. It is essential to measure your client’s head prior to ordering a wig for it to do both. Use a cloth tape measure making sure to flatten the hair before measuring. Don’t pull the tape measure. Just rest it over or around the head using the slightest tension. Pulling stretches the tape and will distort it and give you the wrong size.
1. Circumference The circumference
Choosing the Correct Size
Must be Exact and not over! Wig Size: Circumference Front to Back Side to Side Ultra Petite Child 18-19in/45.75-48.25cm 12in/30.5cm 12in/30.5cm Petite 21in/53.34cm 13.25in/33.66cm 13in/33cm Petite/Average 21.25in/53.98cm 13.75in/34.93cm 13.25in/33.66cm Average 21.5in/54.61cm 14.25in/36.20cm 13.5in/34.29cm Average/Large 22.25in/56.52cm 14.75in/37.47cm 13.75in/ 34.93cm Large 23in/58.42cm 15.75in/40.01cm 14in/35.56cm
or “around the head” size of every wig can be adjusted up to an inch larger or smaller to ensure a secure fit. The tape should be just above the ear and continue to the natural hairline at the forehead. It should continue to just above the other ear to around the nape of the neck and then back to your starting point, just above the first ear.
2. Front to Back
If the size of a wig falls between two sizes, choose the larger of the two sizes, the wig can always be altered or taken in. The key dimension in ordering a wig is almost always the circumference. If other dimensions indicate a smaller size and the circumference indicates a larger size, always go to that larger size.
3. Side to Side
A wig that is ordered too small will either slide off the head or will slide up and pucker at the crown. In addition a smaller wig can’t be altered to be made bigger. If in doubt, it is always best and safest to custom order. This can save a lot of time and money and will ultimately give your client the best fit.
Measure the head from the nape of the neck over the crown to the top of the forehead where the natural hairline is.
Measure the head from just above one ear, over the crown to just above the other ear.
AmericanHairLossCouncil_7875x5062_May14_Layout 1 5/14/14 4:12 PM Page 1
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