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The Link The Voice of the AHLC
ISSUE 15 • 2015 On The Cover 14 Rank Effectively 17 Effective Digital Marketing 18 Facebook Advertising on a Budget 26 A Closer Look at Ethnic Hair
the
human
30 Help Your Clients Bring Hair Loss Into the Conversation
connection is the key to
personal and
career
success. Paul J. Meyer
Founder of the Personal Development Industry
* see back cover for details
*
Features 5 NAAF - Landmark Bill Introduced 9 The Changing of the Guard 22 Natural Eyebrows, The Final Ingredient 24 Virgin, Unprocessed Hair and Other Myths 34 Ingredients for a Successful LLLT Consultation
In Every Issue 6 Member Spotlight: Patty Young 11 New Members 29 Industry News 33 The Link, Classified Ads 37 Tricks of the Trade: Tape, Clip or Bond?
Subscription Information: Subscriptions to The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council are mailed FREE to members of the AHLC within the continental United States. International members are provided digital copies free. Please contact us for additional shipping rates if you are an AHLC member outside the US and wish to receive a printed edition. Non-member subscription price: $60 annually within the continental United States, $85 International. To become a member, renew your membership, or subscribe to The Link as a non-member, please contact Betty Ann Bugden, Membership Director, 570-462-1101 or log on to www.AHLC.org.
The Link Issue 15, Fall 2015  3
The Link The Voice of the AHLC
WE HAVE
A NEW
The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council is the official, quarterly publication of the American Hair Loss Council. For information on advertising or contributing to content, please contact us: The American Hair Loss Council 30 South Main, Shenandoah, PA 17976 615.721.8085 or info@ahlc.org
The Link Staff:
Managing Editor: Janine Thornhill Design and Layout: Thornhill Creative, www.thornhillcreative.com Creative Director: Terrell Thornhill
Thanks to Our Contributors: Tino Amodei, CEO, Wowdya, Syracuse, NY Paul Albee, Managing Partner, ATS Design Group, Syracuse, NY Amy Gibson, Founder/Chief Creative Officer,
Owner, CreatedHair Inc, Los Angeles, CA Grant Gunderson, Director of Professional Sales,
Lexington International/HairMax, Boca Raton, FL Michael Leigh, Founder & CEO, Jolie Caméléon, Los Angeles, CA Ryan Margolin, EU Director/Global Digital Marketing, Professional Hair Labs, Zephyrhills, FL Donyelle McBride Rose, McBride Hair Restoration LLC, Hartford, CT Jennifer Ransford, Owner, Embassy Studio, Chicago, IL
NUMBER (615) 721-8085
GIVE US A CALL
AND SAY “HELLO.” 4 The Link Issue 15, Fall 2015
Gary Sherwood, Director of Communications,
National Alopecia Areata Foundation, San Rafael, CA Holly Slear , Technical Director, Jolie Caméléon, Los Angeles, CA James Todd, Dimples, Los Angeles CA Patty Young, Owner, Yourg Hair, Inc, Springfield, OH
AHLC Board of Directors: Peggy Thornhill, President Joseph Ellis, Vice President Susan Kettering, Executive Director Betty Ann Bugden, Treasurer/Membership Director Laura Cole, Secretary Marsha Scott, Past President The opinions expressed in The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the views of the American Hair Loss Council. The advertisements in The Link do not necessarily reflect the beliefs, opinions or attitudes of the AHLC and does not imply product or service endorsement. The American Hair Loss Council © All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Published for the AHLC by Thornhill Creative. www.thornhillcreative.com
The Link The Voice of the AHLC
California Congressman Authors Landmark Bill for Those Suffering Medical Related Hair Loss
C
by Gary Sherwood, Director of Communications, National Alopecia Areata Foundation
ongressman Jared Huffman (D-CA) is preparing to introduce new legislation, the Cranial Prosthetics Medicaid Coverage Enhancement Act, in the 114th Congress that would expand the Medicaid coverage benefit for cranial prosthetics to alopecia areata, chemotherapy, and any time a physician finds such a course of therapy to be “medically necessary.” This benefit would provide $400 every other year across all state Medicaid programs to those requiring a cranial prosthetic.
cranial prosthetic benefit for individuals affected by alopecia areata. These benefits typically range from about $300 to $400 dollars each year. The Medicaid program is structured to serve individuals with financial need and where no benefit exists, purchasing a cranial prosthetic can become a significant burden.
In 2009, Congresswoman Anna Eshoo (D-CA) introduced legislation to expand all state Medicaid benefits to include cranial prosthetics for alopecia areata; the This bill is a product Alopecia Areata Medof the National AlopeCongressman Jared Huffman icaid Improvement cia Areata Foundation’s with Sarah Chan & Daughter and Parity Act (H.R. (NAAF) commitment to 1142). During the 111th advocacy, exemplified by our LegislaCongress, this legislation attracted 20 tive Liaison program composed of bipartisan cosponsors. However, when people personally affected by the the debate over the Affordable Care autoimmune skin disease alopecia Act emerged, this legislation never had areata who meet with their congresan opportunity to become law. sional representatives and senators to discuss legislative issues pertaining to Sarah Chan of Mill Valley, California, our patient community. Over 6.6 milthe mother of a 3-year-old daughter lion people in the United States and with alopecia areata who charms 147 million worldwide have, had or will everyone she meets, became a NAAF develop alopecia areata at some point Legislative Liaison in 2014. That year, in their lives, numbers which illustrate she met twice with staff members of why this legislation is important for so Congressman Huffman, first at his many Americans. local district office in San Rafael, and then at his Capitol Hill office in WashIn order for the new bill to become ington, DC, in which she explained law, it will need the support of many the present insurance inequities Members of Congress through cospon- for those with alopecia areata. The sorship. Legislators can even cosponCranial Prosthetics Medicaid Coverage sor the bill before it is introduced; Enhancement Act is a direct result of these are known as “initial cosponsors.” Congressman Huffman recognizing NAAF’s Legislative Liaisons are curthe plight of his constituent, and milrently searching for initial cosponsors lions of other Americans in a similar from both sides of the aisle so this bill situation. To learn more about NAAF advocacy efforts and the can truly be considered bipartisan. Legislative Liaison program, please contact Gary Presently, Medicaid programs in Sherwood gary@naaf.org or call (415) 472-3780. only a handful of states provide a
NAAF Unveils Exciting New Campaign in Time for Alopecia Areata Awareness Month September is Alopecia Areata Awareness Month, the perfect time for those with the disease to share their story and host an event so that their community can better understand alopecia areata and living with difference. And this year the National Alopecia Areata Foundation (NAAF) is proud to announce SeeUs, an exciting new awareness campaign.
SeeUs is both the name of the campaign, and what we tell our communities as we raise awareness of alopecia areata to a whole new level with events across the country during the month of September. The SeeUs Campaign is our approach to reducing the stigma of difference and celebrating the uniqueness and resiliency of people living with these conditions by encouraging them to share their stories and be seen in videos on social media outlets. Together we can illustrate our common wellness and humanity in the face of adversity and raise funds to support NAAF’s essential work of driving research, offering support and raising awareness every day! To learn how easy it is to join the SeeUs Campaign, please visit https://www.naaf.org/node/639 The Link Issue 15, Fall 2015 5
The Link The Voice of the AHLC
AHLC Member Spotlight Patty Young, Owner, Young Hair, Inc., Springfield, Ohio
W
hen I grow up I wanna be just like my mother.” – a familiar quote that echoes the aspirations of many young girls. I knew exactly what I wanted to be when I grew up. As the second child of four siblings I paid close attention as my mother, a beautician and single mother, converted the back room of her Springfield, OH home into a beauty salon in order to provide for our family. Hard work would later earn my mother the title of State Beauty Inspector of Ohio. I admired my mother’s work ethic and would eventually follow in her footsteps.
When I opened my own salon, Gentry’s, on a major city street it was the first black-owned business in the area. The salon’s popularity and reputation attracted not only new clientele but also the top local talent in the black hair care field. Many salon owners in the Springfield area began their careers at Gentry’s. The introduction of hair weaving created a frenzy in the hair business and would take Gentry’s to the next level. I learned to weave hair
While Gentry’s continued to flourish as a full service beauty salon specializing in hair weaving, I realized that not all hair issues were solved simply by hair weaving. There were still not many solutions available for my clients experiencing hair loss. Torn between continuing to conduct business as usual or seeking an answer to this unresolved concern, I turned to my Pastor who encouraged me to continue to grow and follow my passion. I took that advice, which led me directly to hair replacement. The first hair replacement company I researched was New Concepts, due to their interest in servicing African American clients. While at my first New Concepts Conference, in my excitement I contacted a number of my clients to let them know that I had an answer to their problems with hair loss. I also took note that the conference included an African American instructor who specialized in hair replacement for women of color.
While initially attending an African American beauty school in Dayton, OH, I soon transferred my education back home to a predominantly white school to complete my training. I vividly remember being amongst the first black students to attend and graduate I was excited to from the school amid the be able to offer a challenges of becoming variety of services an entrepreneur at the that would leave my end of the civil rights clients confident movement. The trainand satisfied. About ing received from both six months after Young Hair building schools provided me returning home, I with the expertise of was contacted by managing multiple hair types. using the notorious Christina New Choice, forJenkins method, even taking merly New Concepts, Upon obtaining my operator’s license, the opportunity to travel to and invited to assist Patty and assistant, Diana, I worked alongside my mother in her Cleveland, OH to personally the instructor who working on a client home salon. I eventually married and meet its namesake. I made taught hair replacehad two children. Our mother-daughter up my mind then that I would learn ment for women of color at the next duo operated the very popular Erneseverything I possibly could about hair conference. I accepted and continued to tine Gentry’s Beauty Salon together for weaving and would soon become known assist the instructor until I was asked to 10 years. as the Weave Queen of Springfield, OH. teach the class. 6 The Link Issue 15, Fall 2015
The Link The Voice of the AHLC
Left: Patty consulting with receptionist, Myrna, with professional stylist, Teresa, looking on
Once I started learning how to do hair replacement, I wanted to learn as much as I could about all facets of non-surgical hair replacement. I attended conferences held by other companies just to see and learn what they did and how I could become better at it. This experience helped me realize that my salon was not properly set up to provide my clients with the discretion and privacy required to perform professional hair replacement services. With that in mind, I opened a second salon, Young Hair, Inc., splitting my work days and services between the two salons. Enjoying the satisfaction of being able to provide my clients with services they couldn’t get anywhere else, I continued to attend seminars and conferences and was soon offering hair replacement services to both men and women, regardless of ethnicity. With my hair replacement clientele growing at such a fast rate, I decided to close both of my salons and open a single, larger and more accommodating facility. The transition would also allow me to work more closely with the American Cancer Society’s Look Good, Feel Better Program, which I has participated in for over 20 years and once served on the local board. In 2004,
Center: Patty being creative in her office Right: Sisters United for Prevention
I received a Volunteer of the Year award for my work with the ACS. As I continued working with the ACS I noticed that there were no outreach programs directed at African Americans, who have a higher incidence of undiagnosed cancer and a higher mortality rate from cancer.
who have succumbed to cancer. Now in its twelfth year, the event continues to grow larger and sell out each year. The proceeds from ticket sales are donated to the Springfield Regional Cancer Center. In 2007, I was a recipient of the Springfield City Schools Alumni of Distinction Award for my work in this area.
I approached the ACS to ask them to support my efforts to engage in outreach to the African American community in Springfield, Ohio. They immediately offered to assist me. Out of this effort the Sisters’ United for Prevention was born, comprised of a group of local African American women, many whom are cancer survivors. I serves as President of the organization. Our signature event is an annual luncheon that features guest speakers, including a physician (usually an oncologist) and a cancer survivor, with a focus on cancer awareness, prevention and early detection. A fashion show follows with all the models being cancer survivors: women, men, and children. The program closes with the dimming of the lights to honor those
I am also a member of the National Council of Negro Women, a member of the African American Community Fund Advisory Committee of the Springfield Foundation and was a former member of the Board of Directors of the Springfield Metropolitan Housing Authority. I am a member of Covenant United Methodist Church in Springfield. When asked what my biggest accomplishment has been in my career I always say, “Throughout my career I have always paused to pray and ask for guidance and direction. I believe God has truly blessed me to be able to touch so many lives through my hands. I consider my life’s work a blessing, not a job. It truly is why I continue to do the work.” The Link Issue 15, Fall 2015 7
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The Link The Voice of the AHLC
The Changing of the Guard Continuing a legacy of excellence. by Jennifer Ransford, Co-Owner, Embassy Studio, Chicago, IL
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hile sitting in my car during rush hour traffic I start to reflect on my business. As far back as I can remember I would go to work with my mom, Carol Monoco, on Saturdays and play office while she worked on her clients at Embassy Studio (founded in 1975). I would imagine that I was the boss and doing paperwork for my pretend clients. After my children went to school, I went to work for Embassy and once again got to do paper work but this time for actual clients. I grew with Embassy and started making a family of our employees and our clients. We worked on clients and now we are working on their grandchildren. After a few years, a man by the name of Phil Ashbach called one day and asked to set up a meeting with my mom. He and his girlfriend, Theresa DeSantis, had met my mom over 20 years earlier at a manufacturer’s hair show. Phil brought his son, Burt, to the shop to discuss Burt renting space to work on the remaining clients that Phil & Theresa had. I still remember the day they came in. I sat at the front desk with Burt and his father’s back to me. When my mother looked at me I had a big grin on my face. My mom put on her best “poker face” so as not to give away my excitement. It was August, 2006 and little did anyone know that this was to be the beginning of the future for both Burt and I as well as Embassy Studio. Burt and I would be married three years later. But like all happy stories there is a great tragedy. My sister Jessica passed because of a drug overdose. Many people in the industry knew Jessica and loved her. On top of everything else, we were moving our studio across the street to a bigger location where we added a surgical center, and started offering Neograft hair transplantation. The stress was unbearable and to make things worse, my mom Carol was
At Jerry Casper’s with Staff
diagnosed with a brain tumor. Embassy Studios was on the brink of collapse. But instead of throwing in the towel, my husband Burt did what he does best. He dug his heals in and said nothing will get in the way of Embassy Studio and its success. And that is what we did. We worked harder than we ever had worked before. I ran the office and did all the sales and he worked on the clients and trained new staff. I got the transplant business off the ground but then less than one year later we got a big hit again. Burt’s father was diagnosed with the most aggressive form of brain cancer and then passed. Then on June 13, 2015, Embassy celebrated its 40th year in business. Article continued... The Link Issue 15, Fall 2015 9
The Link The Voice of the AHLC
A New Chapter Unfolds What happened next nobody could foresee or would have ever expected. Phil’s attorney and friend Sam Borek, the man that paid for Burt’s cosmetology school and had given Burt his first job, had gone to high school with the accountant of a man named Jerry Casper. For those that don’t recognize the name, from 1965, the Casper brothers were the original and undisputed Chicago masters of non-surgical hair replacement. They were three brothers that custom manufactured the most amazing hairpieces right in their own studios. Jerry was so well recognized and respected that he cut in a piece on the Phil Donahue show, which was based in Chicago, and Burt’s father actually took his hair off on the show. Burt’s father was an amazing salesman who was able to sell a million dollars in hair in one year. There are those in the Chicagoland area who will always remember that.
Embassy brand. One of Jerry’s primary concerns in the transition process was to make sure that his existing client base maintained a high comfort level during the change of ownership. Many of his clients have been coming to him for over 40 years. What’s even more interesting is that as we’ve introduced ourselves, many of his long time clients even remember Burt’s father!
Attention to the Details Buying an existing business takes a lot of attention to lot of minute details. Considerations include things like, what
Jerry began thinking seriously of retirement about a year ago. He was 75 years old, and he remembered Burt as the young boy that would come to the salon when Jennifer & Bert Ransford his father worked for him. (Jerry did vacuum molds and Burt loves does their on-hand inventory look like? mold making the old fashion way). How many clients are actually regular, Jerry was looking to sell his business, active clients? And a whole host of but he wanted someone who would other things which can sometimes take take care of his clients in the same way months to determine. This helps you get that he always did. So over a period an actual idea of what the real value of of about ten months, we talked about the business is in addition to what you the acquisition and started seriously see on the balance sheet. thinking about buying Jerry’s business. We visited Jerry’s studio a couple of It’s also important to know about times a week and got familiar with their previous and current staff attrition. operation and staff. Jerry has been Who has recently left? Did they take doing custom hair replacement for 50 customers with them? If so, how big an years, and we were extremely sensitive impact did that make? Why did they to carrying on his legacy, maintaining leave? What about current staff? You his reputation and bringing it under the 10 The Link Issue 15, Fall 2015
don’t want to disrupt the client. So the transition from old to new needs to be careful, measured, and above all comfortable. As we merged Jerry’s business into the Embassy Studio brand, everything has gone very smoothly. Great care has been taken by everyone involved to make sure it has been done in a very kind and sensitive way. Our long history with Jerry has certainly contributed to this smooth transition. Jerry’s staff is amazing and we have been able to keep the entire staff, many of whom have been with Jerry for decades. We promoted one of our top employees who has been with us over 20 years to be the general manager of the new facility. She has been our top ventilator, and this has been a perfect career growth opportunity for her, and we couldn’t be happier. Interestingly, Jerry has a lady who is an expert ventilator as well and has been with him for over 30 years. Back in the day, Jerry was one of the few studios that actually manufactured hair pieces in house. These ladies are a very real and present-day part of that heritage who actually understand how to make hairpieces and maintain them. This is a premium service that clients appreciate, which unfortunately seems to be really a dying art. In speaking with others in the hair replacement industry, it is clear that our experience is far from unique. Industrywide there is a changing of the guard. For Burt and I, it is all about taking care of customers and keeping customers’ needs and comfort first. Our goal now is to keep Jerry’s wonderful legacy alive under the Embassy brand and carrying it on, both professionally and emotionally, for yet another generation.
The Link The Voice of the AHLC
Welcome New Members! Dee Anderson, Delaware Hair Solutions, Newark, DE Hair loss is not just a profession for Dee, it is a personal passion. Dee comes from a family of hair styling professionals and chose to specialize in non-surgical hair replacement after her brother suffered from Alopecia Areata in 2004. In 2005 Dee opened Delaware Hair Solutions in order to provide a discrete salon exclusively for hair loss sufferers. After graduating from Delcastle Technical High School in 1987 with a certificate in Graphic Design, Dee attended the Hair Academy of Newark. Upon completion of her degree and with continued education, Dee is now a Master Barber Stylist and has participated in testing on the Board of Cosmetology and Barbering. Delaware Hair Solutions provides a range of options for all types of hair loss. Constantly continuing education guarantees our clients the best of cutting edge solution to their personal needs in caring environment. Linda Arnold & Company, Auburn, AL, LA Concepts, Panama City Beach, FL Owner/stylist, Linda, is a certified hair replacement therapist, hair color specialist and clinical skin care specialist. With 40 years of experience and 35 plus years as a business owner, Linda strives to stay knowledgeable of the industry through continued education. Linda’s experience includes learning the industries’ latest trends by studying in London, Canada, and Spain. She believes that when passion and desire come together, you have a career, not a job! Jean Brickwedde, Alternative Hair Solutions LLC, Charlottesville VA Jean has been accredited by On-Rite, Follea, Wigs for Kids and is now a member of the American Hair Loss Council. Attending as many conferences, seminars and classes as possible enabling Jean and her well-trained staff to continue providing the professional and confidential service their clients want, need and deserve in addition to giving them back their confidence. Tammy Faris, Custom Secrets Hair Replacement, Fultondale, AL With over twenty-two years of experience in hair replacement. Tammy is a master cosmetologist and receives continuing education several times per year so that she can keep her clients looking their absolute best. Tammy will always go the extra mile to ensure that each client is pleased with their final result. Gina Ferrell, Shear Pleasure Hairstyling, Kingsport TN I’ve been doing Hair replacement for 25 years. I have been the owner operator of Shear Pleasure Hairstyling, in Kingsport Tennessee, for the last 16 years. I specialize in men’s and women’s hair loss and replacement.
To become a member or renew contact Betty Ann Bugden, Membership Director, 570-462-1101 or log on to AHLC.org.
Dan & Andrea Green, Capilia by Hair Professionals, West Palm Beach, FL Dan & Andrea maintain more than 50 years of combined Hair Replacement experience. In 1997, they not only joined forces as husband and wife, but as new business partners. They opened Hair Professionals in West Palm Beach, FL. Driven by their passions for the industry, they grew their small two operator salon, which focused mainly on men’s hair replacement, into the full service Hair Loss Solution Center it is today. The center now services both men and women hair replacement clients with six private styling rooms, consultation rooms, a full service trichology center focused on scalp health and hair regrowth, and a medical wig center. Kelly Bartlett and Lee Hendrickson The Hair Specialists Studio, Hudson, OH Lee Hendrickson has been a well-respected stylist for many years. After finishing her training at the Sassoon Academy in London, Lee continued her career as a salon owner for more than 20 years. She has owned several salons and the newest salon is the result of thirty plus years of work and learning in the cosmetology industry. Kelly Bartlett became interested in solutions for hair loss when she realized some of her customers had needs that she couldn’t address. Since then she has completed intensive training with manufacturers and industry professionals in her search to learn all there is to know about hair replacement. “We have positioned ourselves at the leading edge of the newest trends in our industry. We feel that the beauty industry is trending toward specialized service and away from the all-encompassing day spa where all services are offered. When you have a specific hair problem you need a specialist. As our customer and industry changes, it is our goal to anticipate and be prepared for those changes so that we always remain the Hair Specialists. “ Lisa Hunter, Evolutions the Salon of Change, Indiana, PA Lisa has been a hairdresser since high school, 33 years and a salon owner for 19 of those. She decided to become a Licensed Practical Nurse in her late 20’s while still doing hair full time. She couldn’t get in to the hospital full time and decided to open her own full service salon and cater to cancer patients and and eventually progressed into more hair loss solutions. Another AHLC member recommended that Lisa attend the AHLC conference during a class for men’s replacement class. Lisa attended the conference in Ft. Lauderdale and is so glad that she took that AHLC member’s advice. Paula Johnson, Epiphany Salon & Spa of Naples, FL Paula is Vidal Sassoon Trained and specializes in thinning hair and hair loss (for any reason). Paula has worked with the cancer society of Naples, in the Look Good, Feel Better program for six years.
The Link Issue 15, Fall 2015 11
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Welcome New Members! John and Mel Laudoff Transition’s of Wisconsin, Milwaukee, WI Mel opened his first studio in January 1st of 1965 and recently celebrated 50 years in business. As one first members of the AHLC he served as a contributor and educator for the council. Mel was also one of the founders of Transitions International and served as President 7 years. In 1993 Transitions of Wisconsin became a family business when John joined the company as consultant. John has trained nationally and internationally and has traveled throughout U.S. to educate and help clinics set up their laser hair therapy program. John is currently on the board of directors and Vice President of the Transitions International Group.
Melissa Saenz and Michelle Pasco, TuBella Hair Studio, Lisle, IL Melissa has been helping clients who suffer from hair loss for over 13 years. She is also a licensed cosmetologist practicing since 1991. She has traveled the world including London and China to stay current with developing technology in hair loss. Recently, she has partnered with Michele Pasco to grow and expand Tu Bella to the next level. Together they both bring great energy and work well together in helping others regain confidence due to hair loss. Their boutique specializes in wigs, hair pieces, hats, scarves, bonding, cutting, coloring, styling, low laser lights... You name it they can help. “When it comes to hair loss... We gotcha covered!”
Joanne Linden, Transformations, Inc., Pittsburgh, PA and Palm Beach Gardens, FL Joanne has owned Transformations for 25 years and just opened second location in Palm Beach Gardens. She specializes in hair replacement and extensions for women. Joanne is currently working on a revolutionary industry-related patent for additional hair wearers. She is also the South Florida Consultant for Joseph Fleischer Custom Wigs and Hairpieces in Manhattan.
Arthur Nole , Arthur Nole System’s In Hair, New Hartford, NY Being in hair replacement since 1968, Arthur has seen many changes and worked with some early pioneer companies such as Taylor Topper, Paruca DiRoma, and Charles Alfrerri. Now working with companies such as New Image, Rene Of Paris and being a member of the American Hair Loss Council, Arthur sees a higher standard in our business to ensure success in the future. He has done platform work with local barbers and hairdressers association’s to advance our profession. Arthur enjoys working with client’s and transforming their hair by helping them with a variety of options and solutions such as hair addition’s, wigs and custom made prosthesis.
Nancy Olevson, Wigs and Hair Extensions of Sarasota, FL Nancy is a past owner three hair styling salons and four retail wig stores and a men’s hair replacement salon. She is a licensed cosmetology instructor as well as a tattoo artist specializing in tattooing permanent cosmetics with medical application as well. Nancy owns and operates Wigs and Hair Extensions of Sarasota Florida and specializes in wigs and hair replacement for cancer patients as well as women with hair loss. She also own Sarasota Permanent Cosmetics, Sarasota Mastectomy Products and is an educator for Georgie OSY Wigs. Charlotte M. Powell, DeChalet Salon & Hair Enhancement Center, Havre de Grace, MD Charlotte has been at the vanguard of innovation in hair and beauty for more than three decades. Charlotte is recognized as a “Master Hairstylist” with advanced expertise in the cosmetology industry and a proven passion for providing a clinical cosmological niche of services to individuals who are affected by cancer, autoimmune disorders, hair and scalp modalities, medical treatments and/or trauma caused by acute hair loss. To maximize client satisfaction, Charlotte works at the top of her license to provide high quality care and services that help client’s look and feel their best, especially those who suffer silently with the secret of hair loss. With expert training and education acquired in the United States and abroad, Charlotte is highly sought after and spotlighted for her extensive knowledge and expertise in trichology, non-surgical hair replacement, hair loss, personalized hair prosthesis, and exclusive hair weaving and extension systems. She is known as a trendsetter, mentor, advocate and standard bearer for providing quality client-centered hair care, service and excellence in cosmetology. Charlotte received her Master’s degree and Bachelor of Science degree in Cosmetology from the National Beauty Culturist League and the National Institute of Cosmetology, and her Bachelor of Arts in Psychology from the University of Maryland.
Jeanne Sheldon, Allusions Cincinnati, OH In 2002, after 25 years working in retail, my husband and I decided it was time for a change. At the time a dear friend was going through chemotherapy and she asked me to help her select a wig. She knew I’d helped both my mother and sister through chemotherapy, and my interest in both fashion and style. We visited Allusions, and while I had very little working knowledge of the process, I was quite impressed by the scope of their work, and the impact it had on their clients. When we left the salon my friend was thrilled with her new look, and I was impressed by her beauty and self-confidence. My husband and I purchased the salon shortly after this experience. Allusions does all types of Hair Replacement with a special focus on women. Now, 11 years later, with a beautiful facility and an incredible staff, I can’t imagine doing anything else with my life. I’ve been humbled and touched by so many of the men and women at Allusions, and I look forward to the next 11 years! I look forward to my membership in the American Hair Loss Council and networking with all of the members.
Ella Mae Wickham Wigs Unlimited and The Cottage Salon, Martinsville, VA Ella Mae grew up in Bassett, Virginia as one of five children. She graduated from Bassett High School and entered the work force. After several years, she decided to attend Allen’s Beauty School in Martinsville, Virginia. Upon graduation, she worked at J.C. Penney salon and later became the manager of Regis Hair Salon in Martinsville. Ella Mae has been dressing hair for over 30 years. After a battle with breast cancer, Ella Mae decided to open Wigs Unlimited and The Cottage Salon in 2010. She accepts insurance for those dealing with medical conditions who are in need of a wig. Ella Mae enjoys making a difference in people’s lives and giving To become a member or renew contact Betty Ann Bugden, back to those who are battling cancer and other medical conditions. Membership Director, 570-462-1101 or log on to AHLC.org.
The Link Issue 15, Fall 2015 13
The Link The Voice of the AHLC
Rank Effectively: The On Page SEO Guide
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by Ryan Margolin, EU Director/Global Digital Marketing, Professional Hair Labs
earch Engine Optimization (SEO) is designed to boost the ranking of a specific webpage. A certain level of complexity is involved within, but it is not rocket science! Generally, it is thought that earning an authoritative title amongst your target audience is enough to obtain first page status in the SERP’s (Search Engine Results Page). To a certain extent, it can be but having said that, SEO is changing rapidly. User experience, social signals and valuable content are becoming the corner stones of measurable SEO success.
Avoiding Myopicy One basic thing should never be forgotten. Digital marketing should not be approached in the same manner as traditional marketing. Here, the need of being conscious for consumer needs increases much more because competition is much stronger. A greater level of attention is required for digital marketing when it is for an e-commerce business or a blog that specifically relies on revenue from traffic. I believe that traditional marketing is how a business markets themselves based upon how they would like to be perceived. Digital marketing on the other hand, enables businesses to market themselves based upon how their audiences actually see them! Usually, marketing fails when it simply aims at mass advertising. Too much bragging about a product ignores the basic consumer need. This is known as marketing myopia. This mind-set will not only affect your business in a negative way, but from a digital perspective, it will also work outside of the parameters and rules set by search companies like Google, to ensure their users are getting the best information from their search engine. If the user does not find what they are looking for, they will 14 The Link Issue 15, Fall 2015
leave your page for another competitors; leaving your webpage with a very high bounce rate. Bounce rates can have an effect on the SERP’s SEO techniques with the purpose of attracting targeted audiences or personas can increase value in view of search engines. My aim is provide insight into the main SEO techniques which are usually neglected.
On Page Customer Experience Landing your website on the first page of Google’s search results is what we would all love, am I right? With all of the competition out there fighting for the same keywords, it can look like a UN achievable task. This doesn’t always have to be the case. If you follow the outlined structure below, you should see a noticeable difference over time for your intended keywords. When a consumer uses a search engine, they are looking for the best information they are find. The UX (User Experience) on each individual webpage must have a very specific focus on the intended subject matter. When an individual feels they are getting what they need, they will spend more time on your page. If the internal links are set effectively, they will more than likely follow on to other pages within your site, improving the customer journey and crawlability. When it comes to on page factors, there are a few very important rules which must be followed to ensure you are giving your web page the best chance of being viewed as an effectively optimized webpage. These rules we’ll visit in detail: · Website load time · Meta Data · Htags
· Image Compression · LSI
Website load time Consumers can be impatient when browsing online. We are all consumers in some way shape or form so we can all relate to this. An effectively optimized webpage should take no more than 1 second to load. Any more than this and the consumer is 47% more likely to leave your page in search of another. This statistic alone lends support to why loading time has such a heavy weight placed on its importance by search engines. Google for example, has devised their own platform to check the speed of web pages and give certain suggestion to the developer. This platform is called SpeedPage insights. This tool is easily accessible on every browser, and web owners can use it to check the speed of their web page on both desktop and mobile. Loading speed for web pages especially matters for e-commerce websites. If a customer does not receive a positive experience from a website, they will more than likely not return to the site in the future. An infographic released by KISSmetrics states that a single second delay in page can cause a 7% reduction in conversions. This number may look small, but to put it into perspective, if a website earns $100,000 per day then a one second delay in the loading of the site can cause a loss of up to $250 million a year. This proves that use of speed check tool is necessary for SEO purposes. Another method of comparing speed is to test your sites speed against a competitors to see where it stands.
The Link The Voice of the AHLC business,” here are LSI keywords that you can use: · set up an internet business · starting a web business · setting up online business · how to set up a business website You can often find other related keywords beneath your search results. Those are also variations you can use in your description:
Meta Tags Do you take Meta tags seriously? Although the effect of tags has changed significantly over the past several years, it’s still a good practice to pay attention to them. In on-page SEO, the major types of meta tags that you should pay attention to are:
1 . Title tags Title tags define the title of your web page or document. They’re mostly used to display preview snippets for your web pages. When you’re writing your title tag, it should be short, clear, and descriptive. The ideal length is 50 – 60 characters. If your title tags exceed 60 characters, Google will only show the first 60.
2. Meta description According to Survey Monkey, 43.2% of people click on a given result based on the Meta description alone. The Meta description is what search engines use to gauge what topic you’re writing about and the exact audience they should send to that page. So make it descriptive and short – no more than 160 characters. There is no need to stuff keywords in your Meta description (which would work against you anyway and land you with a penalty as mentioned previously). 160 characters is just not enough space for stuffing, so instead use synonyms or latent semantic indexing (LSI) for your main keyword. For example, if your main keywords in the headline are “start an online
If you’re a WordPress user, then writing your Meta description is easy. Install a plugin called All in One SEO pack, then set up the title tag and the Meta description all at once.
3. Inviting Traffic through Creation of Valuable Content It is an undeniable fact that audiences prefer to land on a website or online business by reading articles. This fact puts great emphasis on creation of content for online marketing. Simply creating content does not guarantee traffic. The content has to be valuable and worth reading for the audience. Once this is the case, the reader will more than likely utilize the further information provided within the internal and external links which are implemented throughout your content. The creation of any content should also include long tail keywords. Research reveals that long tail keywords drag more traffic than head keywords. In order to create more in depth content that is valuable for customers, the following aspects should be covered. 1. Content should be user friendly 2. It should be helpful 3. It should address and solve 4. Optimized for keywords 5. Easy to share 6. Interesting to read 7. Easy to share Research reveals that properly engaging users in content increases sales 77%, lead generation 67%, Customer Retention 88%, Brand Awareness 87% and Lead Nurturing by 61%.
Learn How Panda Algorithm works Panda algorithm was generated by Google to return high profile results for a specific search terms. It basically evaluates and analyses the basic content of website. It filters through the millions of webpages on the web to serve the user with the right content on very first page of results. Research reveals that Google’s efficiency of showing search result has increased since inception of Panda Algorithm. Moreover, content should be informative and full of engaging information. The information should necessarily address the needs and problems of the audience. One thing is clear, valuable and original content is the most effective way to attract traffic. Furthermore, content must be fresh. Up until recently, some SEO managers, agencies or content managers used to simply change the date of previous articles to allow the search engines to think that the site was producing fresh content. This turned out to be a short term gain as Panda laid down the hammer, issuing penalties to all the sites performing this shortcut. So, it still stands strong that producing a well-researched, informative and fresh piece of content is the key to attracting the attention of potential visitors.
4. Optimization through Crawlability SEO can be made quite uncomplicated. In fact, people who generate the most results aren’t operating at with knowledge much greater than then the rest of us – they simply work harder on the basic elements. Statistically, SEO boils down to 3 crucial factors: · Crawlability · Content · Links If you’re not familiar with “crawlability,” a quick search in Google will help, straight from the Google Knowledge Graph. If your link is broken, and spiders couldn’t crawl your web page easily as a result, trust me – they’re not programmed to go looking for the right The Link Issue 15, Fall 2015 15
The Link The Voice of the AHLC link. They’ll simply stop there – and you know what comes next, don’t you? Poor performance in the search results! SEO was never a “set it and forget it” proposition, and it never will be. It’s a continuous learning process, wherein you put yourself in the shoes of your customers and create remarkable content that they want to read. Remember also that remarkable content will only improve your search rankings if it triggers high engagement and sharing on mobile and desktop platforms Also, as mentioned earlier, internal linking of your blog pages is an important step towards improving your site’s crawlability. Remember, search engine spiders follows links. It’s much easier for them to pick up your fresh content page from a link on your homepage than by searching high and low for it.
Above all, your URL should first and foremost be self-explanatory. In other words, the user shouldn’t need anyone to interpret what you’ve published on that page. Make it clear, and avoid spelling errors. Here’s a comparison between good and bad URLs for both user and bots:
2. Crawl Error Resolution: In the process of doing on-page user optimization to attract the attention of search engine spiders, there may be a crawl error encountered. Remember that the SEO process is a continual improvement of your landing pages, content, architecture and audience. So whatever error you discover, don’t panic – just let it motivate you to do what needs to be done.
The URL – Universal Resource Locator – is the address of the web page on your site. It’s an important SEO characteristic.
If you check out your Google Webmaster Tools (now Search Console) and check out your “crawl errors section”, you can gain insight into any issues with your webpages, enabling you to address to problem.
Don’t ever change the URL of your older posts. If you do, it’ll cause a broken link, because your web page will no longer be accessible when users click the URL that was initially specified.
When Google Panda was rolled out, many sites didn’t take it seriously. Consequently, they paid dearly. For instance, EBay lost 80% of its prime rankings. It was a HUGE loss!
Blog page URLs are meant to provide some information and a meaningful experience to humans and computers alike. This is why we do not use binary numbers or IP addresses, but rather real words, in our URLs.
April 21, 2015 was a happy day for mobile users. Google gave them a gift by setting up standards that forced every site owner to consider mobile users.
1. Your URL Structure:
Since these rules aren’t set in stone, and are open to interpretation via testing, the best way to structure your URL is to see how the authority sites are doing it. You can have your category come before the keywords that you’re targeting. In all, both long and short, keywordrich generic URLs do well in the search engine results pages (SERPs), especially when the content is useful and easy to implement. 16 The Link Issue 15, Fall 2015
Those who weren’t prepared got hit hard in search rankings. With the term “mobilegeddon” placed on this change, the statistics behind this day lend support to the reason why you should include responsiveness as one of your on-page SEO factors to pay attention to. Majority your users will access your site from their mobile devices. You’ve got to lay out your site for mobile users. You can always check whether or not your blog/site is responsive through Google’s mobile friendliness tool. Just enter your site
URL into the search box, and then click the button In conclusion, SEO is not something overly complex. While is does take a strong will to learn the parameters, once they are in place, you will optimize at will! SEO will forever be changing the way we create and distribute content; the question is … will your business progress with it? My business cards over the years have said such things as director, sales manager and digital strategist, but when you get right down to it, I’m much more — I’m a marketer, a blogger, a social media strategist and a digital geek in general! As a dynamic and innovative Marketing Manager with practical work experience in digital marketing and sales, I’m a huge believer in the power of branding. I believe that we as individuals, don’t buy “stuff.” We don’t always make decisions based on features and benefits. We make decisions based on emotion, gut feeling and brand promise. I develop web content, such as social media blogs and professional websites. I write and edit content, create listings and social profiles, such as Google, Blogger, Facebook, twitter, Avvo, and LinkedIn, utilising search engine optimization (SEO/SEM) and conversion rate optimization (CRO) within the message, making clients easily assessable across all networks while generating targeted leads and converting qualified leads. I am a team player who has extensive knowledge of innovative development plans that provide further insight into value proposition, product definition, and identification. Professionally, I develop digital media by formulating concepts into key objectives in order to optimize campaigns for digital marketing. You can get in touch with me at ryan@ prohairlabs.com if you ever want to talk digital, marketing or you just want to say hello!
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Effective Digital Marketing In The Hair Loss Industry
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by Tino Amodei, Wowdya Marketing
already know that some of you read the title of this article and think I am crazy, but I promise you I am not and I have made social media, search engine optimization and even review sites work for hair replacement studios. I have created a YouTube video that is ranked number one in Google search, generated over 150K views in less then ten months, and brought in over 310 new subscribers. I have also used Facebook to generate over 1,350 new likes in less then four months, and use Facebook ads to draw in over a 1,000 new people to a website in 30 days. Lastly, I have used search engine optimization to get ranked number one in Google for quality keywords and even beat out some of the most well known hair replacement franchises. I tell you all this because I want you to understand that what I am going to talk about in this article is based on the fact that I have personally used digital marketing to successfully generate new leads for hair loss studios.
Enough bragging, lets get to the important stuff of how I did it. First important piece of information you need to know is out of all the marketing efforts you do, the number one way customers find you are referrals. This is a fact by a study done in 2014 where over a 1,000 hair loss sufferers took a survey and 35.67% of customers said referrals were the number one way they chose a hair replacement studio. Television was at 24.85%, and in third was Internet Search at 23.23%. Internet search is increasing every year, which is why many hair replacement studios should be investing in their Internet presence. What is great about social media and search engine optimization is your combining referrals and Internet search into one. There are four important digital marketing efforts that you need to be doing now:
Search Engine Optimization The most important marketing effort you can be doing digitally is getting ranked number one in Google and in Google’s local listings. When people do a search for hair replacement in the area you are located, you want to be number one in search. If you are not number one, then you are losing leads every day! In order to get ranked number one you need search engine optimization, which includes technical adjustments to your website, but also blogging, social media and positive reviews to build an online reputation.
Facebook To be successful on Facebook you should create Facebook ads that will reach out to a specific audience that you can set. For example, you decided that you want to do a push on hair replacement systems for women. You can target your ad to go out to women at any age range, any distance from your studio, based on their interest and even their occupation. Facebook allows you to target the type of person you want as a customer, not just if they are searching for hair replacement. Your ads will then direct them to a landing page on your website, which should create enough interest for them to sign up for a consultation.
Blogging Blogging is very tedious and not fun for people who don’t like to write, but ideally you should be doing one blog a week. Blogs work very well for ranking well in Google and for content on social media. Your blogs have to be interesting, informative and relevant. For example, maybe you want to do a push for hair extensions. Well, currently while I am writing this, Caitlyn Jenner is very popular and relevant. Despite your views on this topic, she used hair
extensions for her Vanity Fair cover photo and now you can write about the use of hair extensions for that photo shoot and use it to draw new people to your website. Always be sure to include a paragraph at the bottom of every blog that let’s the people reading know how to contact you and what you offer.
YouTube If you have the opportunity to use video for marketing, then you have to do it! Keep in mind the most successful videos are the ones that are not professionally produced, that are not scripted, and that are 100% transparent. I encourage all of you to view the video that has made its way to the number one rankings in Google video search by visiting this link https://youtu.be/SUGH02i11pk. This was shot with a two hundred dollar Cannon Power Shot camera and nothing else, but real and transparent reactions. If you have the ability to create videos with your customers explaining their story, you will receive one hell of a following and view count, just like we did. Yes, that is me in that video and my hair has grown back! Digital marketing for your studio can be the smartest investment you can make. We tend to overthink how we market online, but stick to three points to ask yourself whenever you’re about to post, blog, tweet, like, comment, share, or tag; does it sound like a sales pitch? If so, change it! Is it interesting or relevant at this time? If not, look at what celebrities are doing and make your content relevant and interesting. Lastly, is what you’re putting online going to make someone feel like its real and transparent? You want to be sure you do not sell a bunch of hype, sell what you do best as real as you can. If you can capture all of that online, then you’ll watch your online leads grow! The Link Issue 15, Fall 2015 17
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Facebook Advertising on a Budget You’re going to “like” how really easy it is.
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by Paul Albee, Managing Partner of ATS Design Group, Syracuse, NY
hen it comes to “pay-per-click” advertising, most will think of Google Adwords. But Facebook is also an extremely effective advertising platform, allowing you to reach thousands of potential customers without straining your advertising budget. The first step in any advertising campaign, of course, is to understand your goals. Whether you are promoting a specific in-studio event, a special product promotion, or you simply want to get the word out about your studio and get people to visit your website, Facebook offers a number of ad-types to match your specific goals.
Getting Started If you’ve never used Facebook Ads, the simplest and easiest way to get started is simply by boosting a post on your Facebook business page. When you boost your page content can target different audiences every few days, on different days and at different times every week, and then see what’s working. The cost of boosting a post can be as little as $5.00 per day. In a very short time you can learn a lot about your audience and what they like, helping you tailor your content and photos to increase engagement, website visits and conversions.
Facebook Advertising on a Budget It’s easy to get real results with Facebook Ads without breaking the bank. Studio owners can get started using Facebook Ads for as little as $5 per day. Plus, when you run ads on Facebook, you can target audiences as broadly or as narrowly as you wish. Facebook has a whole array of audience targeting options, tailored to your specific goals and objectives. The most popular of these include Page Post Engagement to promote well-performing posts, Page Likes to grow your audience, and Click to Website to drive interested visitors to your website. 18 The Link Issue 15, Fall 2015
While Page Likes seems a natural choice to grow audience and brand awareness, it can be difficult to see a quantifiable return on investment when you are just getting started. Most studio owners are rightly interested in developing sales leads and making the phone ring. So while Page Likes can help in future advertising campaigns by helping to develop targeted audiences, we are going to focus here on setting up a Clicks to Website campaign to drive potential customers to your website.
Setting Up Your Facebook Ad There are six steps to setting up your Facebook Ad, all of which are straightforward and easy to understand.
Step 1: Choose Your Campaign Objective There are lots of choices here, but the one we want to choose is “Send people to your website.”
Audience Targeting With your goals and objectives firmly in mind, Facebook lets you target audiences based on location, language, age, income level, gender, interests, and behaviors. With Facebooks audience targeting tools, you can find just the audience that you want to reach.
Setting Your Budget As with all pay-per-click advertising, you can’t definitively say what the average cost of a Facebook ad will be, since it varies so widely between various types of businesses and the type of ad you are running. What can be said however, is that Facebook ads are an extremely good value. For standard “Clicks to Website” ads, the cost per click is often well below $1.00, often as low as 25-cents. (Page Likes ads can run considerably higher, often $4.00 per click or more). The point is that by selecting a welltargeted audience with your Facebook ads, it is more than possible to reach your goals without breaking the bank. Facebook also gives you the choice between paying on a cost-per-click basis, or a cost per thousand impressions basis. If you are just getting started, we recommend the cost-per-click option to maximize your budget and ROI.
You will be asked to specify the specific page on your website to which you want to send visitors. It can be your home page, or a specific page about a specific product. If you are running a specific promotion, create a page just for that promotion and send people there. If you are creating an ad about your custom wig offerings, send visitors to a page about your custom wigs instead of just sending them to your home page. You will also be asked to associate your ad with your Facebook Business Page, so if you don’t have a Facebook business page, set one up first before you go any further.
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Step 2: Create Your Ad Account If you haven’t already done so, you will be asked to create your ad account, including credit card and other information.
Step 3: Target Your Ad This is where the fun begins. This is what Facebook calls “Choosing Your Ad Set.” Here you can choose from a whole array of audience targeting options and narrow your audience down to just the people you want to reach. As you make each choice, Facebook shows you what your ad’s potential reach will be.
time for non-surgical hair replacement clients.
Step 4: Set Your Budget So now you have to decide how much you want to spend per day and how long do you want your ad to run? Once you’ve set your daily budget, the next setting to look at the “Optimization” option. By default this selection is set to “Clicks to Website.” But if you look just below the selection box at the Pricing information, you will see that it says, “You’ll be charged each time your ad is served,” (not each time someone clicks on your ad). So change the Optimization option to “Clicks.” Now the pricing says “You will be charged every time someone clicks on your ad,” which is what you want to keep your daily budget in line.
and draw your viewer’s interest to see what your “post” is about. For all ads, Facebook recommends your image be 1200 pixels wide, and no smaller than 600. As far as the image itself, it’s a fact that people click on people’s faces. So a friendly and inviting image of a person in a natural setting will probably work really well in a Facebook ad. Eye-catching images that are unique and relevant to the benefits of your products and services are a big driver when it comes to creating ads that people will want to click on.
Step 6: Place Your Order
Review your ad and then click the button to place your order. Then wait. Facebook will review your ad and either approve it or reject it. Depending on the time of day and the day of the week, this can happen relatively quickly – say an hour or two – or it can take hours.
Keeping Things in Perspective
In the Hair Replacement industry, your potential customers can come from any walk of life, with any kind of interest. So you may just want to choose gender (men, women or both) and income level to get started. You can also specify the geographic locations in which you want your ads to appear. Facebook allows you to target multiple geographic locations for the same ad. If you are in Hattiesburg, Mississippi, for example, you may want to simply choose a 50-mile radius around Hattiesburg for your ad. But you could additionally target, for example, a 25-mile radius around Jackson, Meridian and Gulfport as well, each of which are about 45-minutes to an hour drive time away; a perfectly acceptable drive
One of the biggest questions we get is “How much do I need to spend to be effective?” This depends on a whole range of different factors, but broadly speaking, you should consider at least $20 per day and make a commitment to running your ads for at least 30 days to get a good idea of what you need to change or tweak to be as effective as possible and resonate with your audience.
Step 5: Create Your Ad Now it’s time to get creative. Add the photo and text you want to use in your ad and choose where you want your ad to appear (i.e. newsfeed, right column, etc.). Make sure your ad is mobile friendly since most ad views now occur on mobile devices.
About Photos in Facebook Ads Keep in mind that your ad will appear in people’s newsfeeds, so it needs to look like it naturally belongs there. The photo needs to be engaging
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Facebook is an amazing platform to reach current and prospective clients, learn what they are most interested in, engage with them and build your brand.
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If you’ve heavily invested in your Facebook Business Page, you want people to keep coming back. After all, sometimes the path to purchase can take years before someone commits to contacting you and asking for an appointment.
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Facebook Ads are a great way to get the attention of someone who might not otherwise know you exist. But once they engage with you, it’s important to show them what they want to see. After all, people aren’t coming to Facebook to look at the ads. They’re there for the stories.
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Facebook Ads are just the beginning. Great content that resonates with your audience is what drives trust, and ultimately new business.
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Joli Dancer
TM
The Revolution Continues You could be on our web locator. Limited territories available. See our European hair French top wig and Joli ToppeTM collections at
Email: Hair@JoliCameleon.com Tel: +1 310 593 9988 © Joli Caméléon 2015
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Natural Eyebrows, the Final Ingredient by James Todd, Dimples
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hen I see strangers in public, one of the first things I notice is their hair. Maybe this is because I’m in the hair industry. Probably so, but regardless, our hair styles and hair colors can really change the way we look. Nonsurgical makeovers are often centered around a new hair style or a new hair color. As hair lovers, and healers, we can all rejoice in the contributions we give towards these transformations.
that have alopecia, and for those who are going through chemotherapy.” At the time we didn’t take the thought seriously. The idea reminded me of movie props, such as false mustaches and false beards. But, after listening closer, and seeing men and women with alopecia wearing beautiful hair, but with no eyebrows, we realized that there was one last final ingredient needed, to unlock their true beauty.
However, there’s one detail in the makeover, that often gets overlooked, our eyebrows. Eyebrows are such a minor detail when measured in comparison, to the volume and surface area of our hair and facial features. But, when we have hair, makeup, grooming, but no eyebrows, the transformation isn’t complete, it’s obvious there’s something missing. Without eyebrows we are incomplete.
There are many ways to make eyebrows. One way is to hand tie each individual hair into a monofilament base. From far away, with enough density, the eyebrows might look somewhat passable. But, with a closer inspection, the mono base and knots are clearly visible. Also, it’s hard to make smooth clear edges, when using monofilament the edges tend to fray.
Years ago a Dimples customer asked if we could make eyebrows. At first we said, “You mean eyelashes?” But he said, “No, we need eyebrows for our customers
Dimple’s Natural Eyebrows
22 The Link Issue 15, Fall 2015
Regarding hair types, synthetic hair can be used. But, with pure synthetic hair, the main problem is in the way the hair lies. The hair often stubbornly stands straight up. The way to make the
most realistic looking natural eyebrows is by first using natural hair. Second, the hair is colored. Then, each natural hair is individually injected into a thin polyurethane base. The hair insertions are done with great care to create the most natural looking spacing around the edges, while also creating a gradual density. It’s clear what natural eyebrows can do for men and women with thinning to no eyebrows. But, what can natural eyebrows do for hair replacement specialists, salons, and wig boutiques?
Natural Eyebrows can: 1. Help beautify your customers who have thinning to no eyebrows 2. Be a new profitable item 3. Create more loyal customers 4. Give you an original way to get noticed at your local chemo doctor’s office or hospitals. After you drop your cookies off, pull out a pair of natural eyebrows from your pocket and say, “Have you ever seen anything like this?”
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An example of a well-made eyebrow
Eyebrow
Q&A
Q: How long will natural eyebrows last? A: With proper care, they can last approximately four months (and possibly longer).
Q: How do they attach? A: By using a safe glue they are bonded to the face. Q: How long will the bond last? A: It depends on the glue, how many layers of glue, how
much a person sweats, how dry or oily the skin is and how often they go into hot water. If you use a light water based co-polymer, with moderately oily to dry skin, you can get 2-4 days until you need to re-bond. Although, some customers I’ve heard of, have used a much stronger bond and have had the eyebrows attached for two weeks and longer. I recommend checking on the safety of the glue before applying, since the application is so close the eyes.
Q: What if a client has tattooed eyebrows, but
want more density and different options for shape and color, can natural eyebrows be used?
A: Yes, in fact, the tattoo will make it easier to line up the natural eyebrows for bonding
Poorly-made eyebrows
Q: What is the procedure for bonding? A: Bond as you would attach a hair system or top piece:
Sterilize the target area of the face, the rear of the eyebrows and your hands. With a fine brush, put a layer of bonding glue on the back of the naked polyurethane area of the eyebrows, then quickly put a layer on the face in the desired area. After the glue has turned from white to transparent (about 5-7 minutes), gently collect the eyebrows with tweezers and then press them down against the face with a Q-tip. Before attaching, more layers of glue can be used to prolong the bond.
Q: Can the eyebrows be colored? A: Yes, but only with a pencil. We don’t recommend using permanent coloring
Q: Can you swim in the pool or go to the beach with these eyebrows?
A: Both are possible, but we do not recommend either. The chemicals from the pool and the salt water could lessen the life, also if they are not bonded on properly, they may come loose.
Q: Can a client bond the eyebrows themselves? A: Yes, with proper instructions. Q: How many styles and colors do you have? A: We have 5 colors (2, 4, 6, 8, 10) and currently 5 styles Q: Can the shape be customized? A: Yes, with a sharp knife. The Link Issue 15, Fall 2015 23
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Virgin, Unprocessed Hair & Other Myths by Michael Leigh, Founder & CEO and Holly Slear, Technical Director, Jolie Caméléon, Los Angeles, CA
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n the hair industry, we have become used the plethora of hair descriptions and perhaps we have stopped questioning their true meaning, or even whether such hair is even likely to exist in any sort of quantity. Virgin, unprocessed hair, Remy hair, ponytail hair, Indian temple hair, Russian hair, European hair, European processed hair, Italian hair, Brazilian hair, Peruvian hair, Turkish hair, are just some of the terms frequently advertised.
If you are a high quality wig and hairpiece manufacturer, sourcing large quantities of premium hair from Eastern Europe and other destinations, hair quality is of primary importance. But how do you know that what you are paying for is actually what you are getting? Certainly “claimed hair origin” is one of the least reliable methods of hair selection. Physical inspection, strand testing, tensile strength, denier, luster, color(s), clarity, softness, movement are all better ways and, together, tell a much more accurate picture.
compatibility and uniformity are also issues. Most of the hair we collect starts out as virgin, unprocessed ponytail hair and we even sell a line of premium wigs using this kind of hair with no added color whatsoever. However, the majority of our hair-wearers want sophisticated color blending and densities that require careful sorting, double drawing (to remove excessive shorter hairs) and layering. This kind of hair does not occur naturally in consistent quantities and supply and, therefore, nature needs help in order to become the sought after hair that your clients expect you to provide them. So how do we manage this process.
Hair-wearers want sophisticated color blending and densities.
In truth the world is a melting pot of which the USA is just one microcosm. Just look around you next time you are in a shopping mall, a sports stadium, or an airport. There are many ethnicities represented and many corresponding different types of hair. And so it is true in most countries of the world.
This kind of hair does not occur naturally in consistent quantities and supply and, therefore, nature needs help in order to become the sought after hair that your clients expect you to provide them.
As an example, all of Joli Caméléon’s hair starts as ponytail hair. It is purchased from willing donors and is required to meet our designated quality targets for our different kinds of hair (best European and best Eurasian to meet different price points). A popular myth is that one ponytail makes one wig. In reality multiple ponytails are used to make one wig, which means hair
Ponytails are shipped in bulk to our destination factories, depending on product line, where they are carefully sorted by quality, texture, color and length. Then they are “double drawn”, by hand-raking the hair through grids of metal combs. This is a very expensive way to make wigs and hairpieces and actually creates finished products
24 The Link Issue 15, Fall 2015
that are “better” than a women’s hair growing from her scalp in the sense that it has a lesser percentage of shorter to longer hairs – more uniformity in the length – which is a highly desirable feature. In a healthy head, hair falls out of the scalp naturally and new hair grows in. Thus, no one’s hair is ever all the same length and contains much variance in hair length naturally. But, as many of you know, the typical wig purchaser expects more consistent hair lengths in a premium product than they actually used to have growing from their own heads. They don’t remember, and even never noticed or knew, and their perception is different from reality. So double drawing the hair is the method we use to create superior product “fullness” from superior hair. The reason this is a much more expensive way to make hair products is that we are replacing naturally occurring short hair with longer hair, which costs significantly more, especially for fine European hair. We are required to meet the demand for hundreds of wigs and hairpieces per month and to do all this while meeting published specifications for the different products in our catalog in a variety of color choices. These are offered via a sophisticated color ring that includes blends of colors and even some very difficult to create rooted color effects. This requires color quality control for the hair that is gently dyed one or two levels from its original state to meet the color ring values. If one of our hair wearers comes to see you and orders a wig from you today in, for instance, our color 6JC02, also known as 24/14/12 in hairdresser’s language, and then repeats that order in a year or two’s time, she expects to get that same color.
The Link The Voice of the AHLC hair technicians, there is a kind of processing that creates consistent colors without significantly impacting hair quality.
A hackle is a metal plate with rows of pointed needles used to blend or straighten hair.
Acid processing, perm processing and color processing are only some of the possible processes that hair goes through. Most curly hair, used in hair products in the USA designed for African American women are perm processed. This hair is often misleadingly referred to as “Brazilian hair”. Wavy perm processed hair, as well as straight with body hair, is often referred to as “Italian hair”. The likelihood that this hair actually originates in Italy is improbable. Italy is one of the wealthiest countries in Europe and few women with cut off their hair there for money. Yet, a brief “Google” search will reveal hundreds of suppliers of “Italian hair”. And so it goes. More and more, we see hair origins and hair descriptions bandied about as suggesting quality and desirability of products. In truth, hair origin and descriptions are very poor ways to make judgment calls on the kind of hair you are reselling and that your customers are buying. Access to better information due to increasing Internet transparency is beginning to educate the wig-wearing public. Your efforts to help your clients with that learning curve will be valued and will help you gain the trust of those clients. Hair quality is inevitably derived from many characteristics of the hair that has nothing to do with where it is claimed to have come from. It is certainly more about the above-described characteristics and correctly applied processes.
Ponytails of varying color and densities
In this respect the hair is processed. But to understand the word processed is also a cause of much confusion. It needs to be specific. Low cost hair products are made from hair that is inevitably bulk processed,in that they use low quality inexpensive hair, that may not be cuticle-correct (as in all the cuticle going in the same direction – also known as Remy hair). Often this kind of hair includes “swept-off-the-floor” hair to increase bulk and weight of a hair shipment. This kind of hair has to be dipped in acid baths to remove the cuticle. This damages the hair to some extent, shortens its life and can cause tangling problems if not done correctly. In addition, the hair may become brittle and dry. Correct, gentle processing is essential to a high quality finished product. Of course, short cuts are inevitably used to make cheaper products and then the end-result is silicone coated to disguise the hair damage and give a softer, smoother feel to the hair. Unfortunately, this is a temporary fix and quickly shampoos out, exposing the true nature of hair quality used. But, for premium products, if done correctly by expert The Link Issue 15, Fall 2015 25
Great hair requires great care.
The Link The Voice of the AHLC
A Closer Look At Ethnic Hair by Donyelle McBride
H
ave you ever wondered what your hair would say if it could talk? Well, it may not be able to speak, but it certainly has it’s own personality. Each and every one of us has distinct characteristics that make us unique and so does our hair! When looking specifically at one of the most misconceived hair types, ethnic hair, there are differences in the nature of the hair fiber and hair care needs that truly make it like no other.
What is ethnic hair? African American and bi-racial hair textures are usually referred to when describing ethnic hair. Often times, the nature of ethnic hair is curly, ranging from loose curls to tight coils. The spiral, spring shaped strands are typically born out of curly, flat hair follicles. Research shows that African American hair produces more oils and sebum compared to any other group. But, because the hairs are coiled shape, it prevents the oils from getting evenly distributed, which can result in dry, damage-prone hair. These unique characteristics make it especially important for those with ethnic hair to practice optimal hair care methods.
How do you care for ethnic hair? To prevent over-drying ethnic hair, it is ideal to avoid frequent washing. A good wash one to two times a week is plenty enough and should always be followed up with moisturizers such as conditioner and oils. When it comes to blow-drying and straightening hair, letting the hair air dry or sitting under a heated dryer will help to prevent 26 The Link Issue 15, Fall 2015
The above chart of hair types can be helpful in identifying varying curl and densities.
damage that can occur from stressing hair when wet, which is its most fragile state. Protective styles such as braids and properly installed weaves are options that help to shield natural hair from being exposed to outside elements. Weaves or braids that are too tight or too loose can pull on the hair and can contribute to hair thinning or hair loss. You can achieve the best care by practicing good maintenance and offering routine appointments to your clients.
Is ethnic hair prone to loss and thinning? There are myths i.e. “Ethnic hair can’t grow long and healthy”. Generally, it grows at the same rate as other hair types, but due to the fragile and dry nature of the hair, it can break just as fast as it grows. There are ways to avoid breakage, hair loss and thinning. And for those who have already had bad hair experiences, there are a number of options to restore and repair
it. Although, there is no miracle potion that will fix damaged here, my trichology training helps me minimize potential loss and damage. By finding out what’s stressing your clients’ strands a trichologist can help you choose the right solution. I often recommend laser therapy, hair supplements and regularly scheduled salon appointments.
Trichologist and U.S. Trichology Institute Board Member (USTI) Donyelle McBride Rose of McBride Hair Restoration LLC (MHR LLC) is CT’s pioneer and only Trichologist office with an on-site Certified Natural Health Practitioner (CNHP). Donyelle is a member of International Association of Trichology (IAT), American Hair Loss Council (AHLC) and is an affiliate office of Hair Loss Control Clinic (HLCC). She specializes in Male/Female hair restoration and has a passion for helping other. As a National and International Educator she also educates Physicians, Medical offices, and Licensed Professionals about Alopecia awareness and the alternative solutions.
The Link Issue 15, Fall 2015  27
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FDA Warns LaserCap Maker, Transdermal Cap by Fink Densford, Massdevice.com, August 19, 2015
AHLC Reaches Out to Cosmetologists Eager to Learn about Hair Loss
The FDA warned Transdermal Cap earlier this month over a handful of operational issues, including documenting and handling complaints, design validation and verification and product quality control. Transdermal Cap produces the LaserCap, which uses light therapy to improve cellular respiration and stimulate hair follicle cells, the company claims. The device masquerades as a hat and can be worn underneath other hats, according to the company’s site. During a facility inspection June 10, an FDA investigator issued a Form 483 detailing the company’s failure to conform to the agency’s requirements in a number of different categories. Included in the complaint was a failure to establish standards for evaluating and reviewing complaints from customers, including 125 customer complaints that the federal watchdog said lacked dates and other information. The Agency said that a number of the complaints were not investigated, including cases where patients reported reactions of scalps burning, hair shedding and head itches. The company was dinged for failing to establish procedures for creating corrective and preventive actions. The agency said that data sources were not being analyzed to identify product and quality issues, including changes to design based on complaints. The FDA also warned on a failure in the company’s design control procedure for the design validation study of its LaserCap, according to the letter*. The agency said there were no methods of acceptance criteria established, no documented date for the study and there was no documented assessment of the results of the survey that served as part of the study. The warning letter also referenced failures to maintain risk analysis and a failure to establish and maintain supplier evaluations. SOURCES: http://www.fda.gov/iceci/enforcementactions/warningletters/2015/ ucm458008 http://www.massdevice.com/fda-warns-lasercap-maker-transdermal-cap/
One of the American Hair Loss Council’s greatest missions is to educate. That is why we are excited that our Executive Director, Susan Kettering will be teaching Hair Loss 101 at Caribito’s Northeast Education Conference. We look forward to bridging the information gap between stylists and the hair replacement industry. This is a unique opportunity and we look forward to sharing the resources available for cosmotologists to be introduced to hair replacement, get additional education about our industry, learn about products available and help their clients suffering from hair loss. The hair replacement industry continues to grow and the AHLC is proud to help make this happen. Class Description - Hair Loss 101: by Susan Kettering, AHLC Executive Director Do you have a client with thinning hair? Hair replacement can help anyone with any type of hair loss. There are many solutions available, from topicals and laser therapy to full cranial prosthetics. Learn how to qualify a hair loss client and make proper recommendations for fit, color, texture, cut, style and attachment. See a live demonstration of a custom-made fitting, custom color and attachment. What a great opportunity to help the clients you are increasingly running into, with a solution that can help their self esteem too! The Link Issue 15, Fall 2015 29
The Link The Voice of the AHLC
Help your clients bring Hair Loss into the Conversation
F
by Amy Gibson, Founder and Chief Creative Officer, CreatedHair, Inc.
or any woman losing hair, it most certainly deepen her perspective on life and herself. She now has to reach into her soul that much deeper to find out what makes her special beyond her normal external attributes.
Since the release of my book, Sex, Wigs and Whispers, I’ve had several salon owners and stylists thank me for bringing these subjects into the conversation and what a help it has been for their business as it has further solidified their client relationships.
As a women struggling with hair loss while starring on television for over twenty years and no one was speaking about hair loss, I had nowhere to turn for guidance or direction. I was even more acutely sensitive to the “Beauty Judgments of Hollywood” and the fear of being ousted as some bald freak from an industry built on the importance of the external. I had no control over what was happening to me or of this condition. So I had to learn how to deal with it on my own. My struggle with hair loss forced me to create ways to keep my hair loss a secret so I could live as normally as possible, like any other woman with hair. This included hiding my secret from cast mates, the network, my agent, the press, friends and boyfriends. Not an easy task, but in time and with practice, it became easier. When I became a wig designer, I gained a more technical perspective. However, as a studio owner I now took on the greater responsibility of the heart with my clients that went beyond just servicing them with a quality hair system. The process then expanded to giving them tools to live their life fully, like any other woman with hair who desired to be social, workout and have intimacy discreetly and feel safe while wearing this foreign thing on their head. These tools for every occasion took me twenty years to create. After thousands of client requests it was clearly time to share this information with as many people as possible. 30 The Link Issue 15, Fall 2015
Excerpt From The Book:
Ooh! Broaching the Subject When or if I should tell my potential mate of my hair loss? As always, the decision whether or not to tell him is up to you. Remember, staying calm and in control works; it’s only when our reaction becomes abnormal that people sense something is off, curiosity sets in and that strange uncomfortable dance usually follows. The easiest thing to do is just go with the flow and not react. Just respond to him, not too strongly. Most of the time, if you are ready to discuss this and are in control of your emotions, the words fall into place just fine. Please believe me when I tell you it’s easier than you think. It’s all in the approach. Keep in mind that if you’re requesting honesty from a partner and should he want to know more, be prepared to expand on your explanation because he deserves to know. Obviously, on your terms and ONLY if you’re ready. So if you are, go for it - rehearsing in the mirror or with a friend helps before broaching the subject. However using bit of humor always works for me.
This will be the first of a series of articles with excerpts from Sex, Wigs and Whispers. Communicating about these issues can be a little awkward for some. These excerpts can be passed along to your clients as well as give you additional insight as to what women go through. We’ll going to take a look at the most common fears many women have when entering the dating world while wearing hair and the easiest ways to deal with them successfully so we can offer our clients (and give ourselves) peace of mind. One of the most common fears is how and when to share our secret.
A few different approaches that I’ve used in broaching the subject of hair loss which have worked most of the time: 1. Control and Calm “Listen, if we’re going to be friends, it’s got to be based on honesty. I need to tell you something that’s been on my mind. I have been dealing with a condition that has resulted in losing my hair and it’s been stressful trying to be someone else for you when I am with you. It may or may not grow back. It very well could… I didn’t know how you would react so it’s taken me a little bit of time before I felt comfortable enough in sharing my secret.” Remember, staying calm and in control works; it’s only when our reaction becomes abnormal that people sense something is off, curiosity sets in and that strange uncomfortable dance usually follows. The
The Link The Voice of the AHLC easiest thing to do is just go with the flow and not react. Just respond to him, not too strongly. Please believe me when I tell you it’s easier than you think. It’s all in the approach.
address it later on. And then force yourself to move through this moment and move on and only being present with him. Try not to focus on your hair loss! Common responses are: “Why no, of course not, I care about you.” (Let this one soak in) or “Well, you need to give me a minute to digest this.” My solution for this one is, “Go ahead. I totally understand. This is a bit different than what you’re probably used to.” And then - give him the time to think about it, without freaking out or being afraid that he’s going to run. Being rejected is what most of us are so afraid of.
2. Upbeat and Bold… “Honey, let me ask you something; on a scale from 1-5, what physical quality would you say is most important to you? Are you into...say... legs? hair, tushie, face? Some men are into eyes, etc.” Put the word hair in the middle of your sentence and do NOT stop or pause when you say the word - just follow with your question. WAIT for his answer. Regardless If you stay calm, he’ll stay calm and be open to the of how long that moment may feel. MEN NEED TIME communication. As long as you stay true to yourself TO PROCESS. Don’t be thrown off, just continue as and your feelings, you will both be fine. However, you planned. Most of the time men say their preference don’t have to sit there and remain uncomfortable. If and it will usually include hair. If he doesn’t mention you find he’s taking too long to react, make light of it it and it doesn’t come up in conversation, you may with an obvious look at your watch, followed by with feel the need to inquire further with, “So uh, how a cute smile of course (always the best offense), “OK important is hair to you?” WAIT for his answer. Those – so, you’re good…? No heart attack on the rise?” As of us who are uncomfortable with the waiting have if giving him a moment to review, then try laughing a habit of answering the question for them. So just it off. This will help keep it light. He will most likely give him the time he needs to respond. If he responds want to know how this happened. That is your choice with, “Hair is definitely on the top of my list.’‘ DON’T if you’re ready. However, at this point it is critical you FREAK - just stay calm and say, “Hmmm, interesting stay centered. Tell your story, without the drama. This - I would have taken you for an eye guy or leg man.” is usually the part that will freak a man out. Translation: GET HIM OFF THE SUBJECT OF YOUR HAIR! Stay in your power ladies - think sexy... not “OMG I Most of us have endured pain, suffering and just plain have none. Now What!” drama throughout this process; but for now, save this part of your story for your girlfriends. You can The good thing is that you have your answer, this share all of what you’ve been through with your man, guy’s into hair. Okay, so always make sure yours when you are both in control of your feelings. Don’t looks great when you see him. This does not mean be fooled; this is a big deal for him and you. that he won’t fall in love with you because you have Give sharing your secret the respect it deserves and none. On the contrary, it means you have some inside wait. track now, as to what makes him tick - which is a good thing; because now, you just have to work with 4. Playful, Flirty, Sexy that until he gets to know you well enough so the This has always worked for me when I have not only hair won’t mean as much. He’ll be more connected been ready to tell him, but when there has been with who you are and the hair will no longer take enough intimacy to take it to the next step and be precedence. Now it will be your heart, your sense more physical together. of wit and charm, that will be at the top of his list. But first, you need to give him time to get to know In a so soft playful way - not serious at all here ladies, those wonderful things about you. In the meantime, ask him, “So, you think about it; in your life have you make sure your hair looks luscious and smells nice. found yourself drawn to more blondes, brunettes If he responds with never mentioning that hair is or redheads? What about women with dark, sultry important - leave it alone, don’t bring attention to it. black hair?” WAIT for his answer. If he says, “Why are Just enjoy the moment. you asking?” Just tell him you’re curious. Some men will tell you, while others may say: “I don’t know, it 3. Curious doesn’t really matter to me, I like all women. It’s If he’s curious about your hair and begins to ask about more about the connection” (I like those…) it, try this for a diversion; “My hair - ah – that’s a boring subject let’s talk about something more interOr they may say, “I don’t know, I’ve never thought esting!” And move on to just that - something more about it.” Then you can try one of these, which has interesting. However, be aware not to completely never led me astray. “Well, what if I told you I could ignore his need to know. Remember, he does have be anyone you want me to be? How fun would that a right to know the person he is dating. Respect be?” If he says, “What do you mean?” Say, “Well, just his wishes and mention that you’ll take the time to use your imagination… what if I could look any way
you wanted me to? You know…” I like to play and say, “Well, I can be Audrey, the blonde bombshell on night; or I can show up as Tara, the sultry, long haired brunette, with nothing on but thigh high boots under my fabulous leather trench coat… You can never tell who you’re going to get.” Wait for his answer - it will usually be cute and playful. A common response has been, “Oh really, that’s fun. How do you pull that off?” Well ladies, now you can go to town with, “Just think about it, you never need to have an affair, because all you would have to do is make a request for the evening and low and behold, she would appear at your door.” This particular one should be said only with the utmost of confidence and playfulness. If not, it will come off insecure and you’ll ruin the entire intention and the moment. At this juncture, say what is most comfortable for you and your heart. Say a lot or say nothing; it’s your choice. If not, it’s okay. You can stop right here and leave him alone with his imagination. 5. Not Ready to Share; Intimacy and Sex… I’m always a fan of intimacy and sex, but, if you’re not quite ready to tell him and want to avoid him touching or even getting close to your hair, tell him, “Oh listen, I had these extensions put in and my head’s a little sensitive. So I’d appreciate it if you don’t touch my hair.” If he gets nosey and has the nerve to inquire further about the extensions, just stay calm and play-it-off with, “Seriously? You must be kidding. That’s a little too personal. Down Boy!” So as to avoid that weird moment, quickly but subtly move on to another subject. There are many more How To’s about this and other ‘Hot’ topics in the Nookie Time section of the book. Now go Have Fun! The bottom line is to remind yourself of two things; 1 You are the prize! 2 Don’t let anyone or anything push you into feeling or doing anything. You have the power to decide if when - and how to tell him, and will do so when you feel comfortable. Period!
In future issues I’ll be covering: • Preparing For The Unexpected - The Famous Convertible Ride • Walking Against the Wind • Nookie Time • Showering / Taking a jacuzzi with Your Mate • Working Out ~ A Date at The Gym… OH MY! • The Art of Hugging Plus a few more surprises…Enjoy! The Link Issue 15, Fall 2015 31
If you have something to sell, trade, advertise or announce, we’re now offering advertising space to AHLC Members in the form of premium, classified ads. Each ad may contain color photos, as much copy as space permits and also includes your layout and design.
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To advertise in The Link Classified Ads, or to discuss rates, call Janine at 615.721.8085 or email TheLink@AHLC.org
For Sale by Owner:
MEP-90
If you currently offer, or are thinking of offering Laser Therapy in your salon or clinic, then you should stop and read this ad. For sale is the first FDA CLEARED in salon laser, the MEP90. The MEP-90 was designed to bathe the entire scalp in uniform laser light. The key to the MEP-90’s success is the right combination of several key factors: diagnosis, illumination, power, wave length and exposure time. Originally a $50k machine, it still sells new for over $30k. This machine was a second machine for our clinic and as such, has less than 100 hours of usage. Also included in the sale is delivery, setup and a full day of training on its use and consultation training to help you and your sales team close more laser consultations. For more information, please contact Grant at 412-980-4247.
For Sale: Sucessful Apollo Dealership in Western Kentucky. After a long and successful career, we would like to retire in the next few years. We’re advertising the business for sale now to provide an orderly transition period and so current clientele may be retained; more than 250 clients have purchased hair systems and other products in the last eighteen months. The operation has consistently led its city size group of Apollo dealers and has ranked in the top 10 overall. The studio is located in a comfortable, home-like setting situated on the busy corner of a main street with high traffic counts and has adequate onsite parking. The Studio also houses 8 stylists, each paying booth rentals for 11 years at this location. All inquiries will be answered promptly. Please contact: David York and Associates 101 East Second Street, Owensboro, KY 42303 1-270-684-4111, Fax: 1-270-685-5502, dayassoc@bellsouth.net The Link Issue 15, Fall 2015 33
Fusion Hair Extensions
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Ingredients for a Successful LLLT Consultation
R
by Grant Gunderson, Director of Professional Sales, Lexington International
ecently an interesting study was conducted in Australia to prove, or disprove, the hypothesis that hair cover can protect against invasive melanoma on the head and neck. Sounds pretty simple, right? I mean we have to have been given hair (albeit temporarily in many of our clients’ cases) for some reason other than to frame our face, right?
The study concluded that rates of invasive melanoma on the ear were seven times higher for men than women. In fact, further testing using mannequins showed that hair cover reduces ultraviolet-B exposure by over 80 percent when compared to uncovered ears. www.ncbi. nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/ PMC1705485#!po=0.980392
So what? Long before I worked for any laser company, I suffered from AGA (androgenetic alopecia). I also spent five to six years giving consultations and running the medical side of a hair replacement company. Unlike many other manufacturer reps and vendors, I’ve been in your shoes. I know that LLLT isn’t the easiest of things to sell. Some of you struggle because, like your clients, you still may be skeptical as well. If you’re still skeptical about LLLT, you simply haven’t done your due diligence. There are hundreds of studies showing it works. Lexington International has done seven clinical trials themselves and is known for being open and reputable. Some companies claim to have done trials, but have not published them. Doing clinical trials is NOT cheap, so I’ve never understood why a company wouldn’t publish them. Others have done trials via very “friendly” clinics (Pay to Play). Honestly, for years I thought the 34 The Link Issue 15, Fall 2015
whole laser comb idea was missing the energy needed to create any reaction at the follicle level. I gave no thought to the teeth and how parting the hairs made any difference and in reality, I don’t believe that I had ever heard this explanation from anyone. I, like many of you, was looking for an at-home solution. Reading this study and its results,
which makes perfect sense to me, I have come to the conclusion that without parting/separating the hair one will never lead to the very best results for those suffering from AGA because even the thinnest hair helps to block light from the sun. It can easily block/refract light from a laser. Use this fact to your benefit when discussing a potential client’s hair-loss and when offering solutions. More importantly, from the standpoint of LLLT, it got me thinking too. I went back and looked at before and after photos for 100 of my past LLLT clients and noticed something that supported this even more. My most successful LLLT clients have had the greatest amount of hair loss. They still had good amounts of vellus hairs on top or had extremely thin hair that exposed the scalp. While they weren’t
great candidates for wearing hair, they still had some. These results were all obtained from the MEP-90 (still by far the best in-salon laser ever, in my opinion). Clients will do in-salon treatments for a limited period (6-12 months typically), but then they need something to continue with at home. There are many choices on the market. The very best choice is something that is easy to use, doesn’t require much time OR effort (we are a lazy and very impatient people), so parting the hair with a handheld device doesn’t work for many people anymore because over time, it becomes “too much hassle” (we’ve all heard it!). Top of the head helmets and caps just don’t give the best results because oftwo reason: 1 . The light source is too far from the scalp, and 2. The more hair a client has, the less effective the treatment. Recently Hairmax introduced a device that meets all of the above,very close proximity to the scalp, hands free and parts the hair in such a way to give maximum exposure of laser to the scalp and a treatment can be completed in 90 seconds.
A few things that you, as the expert, should know for any consultation: Get to know the client and ask questions about: • Lifestyle • Any history of hair loss or thinning in the extended family • Medical conditions, thyroid problems and medications they’re taking • Diet • For female clients, ask specifically about blood work. Have they ever been iron deficient, any recent changes in health or life in general.
The Link The Voice of the AHLC
Decide if they’re a good candidate for LLLT. Whether it’s for an at-home or in-salon/clinic treatment plan, if they still have hair on their head they’re a candidate depending on their age and particularly expectations. If they have fuzz on top of their head and they want the hair they had at 30 years old, sell them on wearing hair! The Norwood Hamilton scale is a good reference point
them, you need not say more. You don’t need to ask for the sale, just confirm that they understand why they’re buying. This should really only take 15 or 20 minutes to do.
back long term. Do not just sell them a laser. Sell a program that benefits both of you. Laser works well, but the real problem with AGA is that dreaded acronym, DHT (dihydrotestosterone).
Set expectations
This program should include:
My consults were always very positive and I would, without fail, ask one important question. “John, if I told you that laser can increase the diameter of your unhealthy hairs by 50 percent or more and over time A typical top of the head device, typical output on the scalp: Notice can grow new hair, that it is basically a number of “hotspots” on the scalp as seen here: you’d be interested, right?” John always says yes without fail. “...and John, what if I told you that laser, at the very least, will help you keep the hair you currently have?” Ninety percent of the time, or more, John wants to do LLLT. LaserBand coverage
for hair loss, but not so useful for determining if LLLT will make them happy. I say that because, again, LLLT works but has its limitations. Use common sense. LLLT won’t grow hair on a pumpkin! But if when looking at his/her front hairline, temples and crown there’s hair, it’s just much thinner than on the sides or back, then you have a candidate. Ask them if you can take a picture of their problem area. Get a good, close up picture of that area and sit down with them. Zoom in on the picture as large as you can and show them the on-going miniaturization. You will have their attention and can go into the explanation of DHT (dihydrotestosterone) and AGA (androgenetic alopecia). Educate them on the science of LLLT and why it works. If you understand the role of DHT in AGA, and can show the client you know it and why LLLT will work for
Make sure to really drive home the fact that hair re-growth TAKES TIME! An analogy I always referred back to is a hair transplant. When the patient goes home, he has all the new hairs showing, typically within one-two weeks, those hairs all disappear, (although with use of LLLT after the transplant the hairs usually remain!) and they take on average six months to begin to show as nubs coming out of the scalp again. Transplant doctors typically tell patients 12-18 months to see FINAL results. I always liked to tell clients that it took them many years to lose it, it’s not coming back in a week or even ten weeks. I say, “Let’s judge progress in three to six months.” Again, take really good pictures.
1
A good wet product that blocks DHT. Find a product line that you can stand behind. It should include a shampoo with organic DHT blockers (e.g. saw palmetto, green tea leaf extract, stinging nettles, and pygeum bark extract, or other organic ingredients). It should be sulfate free as well. Additives like Biotin are fine and good for the hair, but serve no value in blocking DHT.
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An oral supplement to add to the daily regimen as well that contains more DHT blocker
An activator or pre-cleanser that prepares the scalp and cleans away any oils, products, etc. that leaves the follicular funnels clean and open.
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Your in-salon program should include regular visits for a weekly/ bi-weekly scalp cleanse and massage followed by an in house treatment using the newest laser you have in house and are trying to move people to. You should have good pictures taken of the clients trouble spots so you can help show them the progress. It’s often hard for the client to assess accurately because they’re constantly looking at their hair. Schedule pictures at four, eight and 12 weeks and then every two to three months after during the first six months, preferably a year. Keep their pictures available and always review their progress openly with them. We’re building trust and rapport with the client. Perhaps later on, they may decides that it’s not enough hair. You can then move them into transplants or hair replacement.
Offer a complete program
IMPORTANT NOTE:
Now as a salon/clinic owner, you’re not very interested in just a laser sale (I hope!). Here’s where you use that creative side of your brain that all of you have. You create a better solution for your client, one that keeps him coming
Transplant clients should each receive a laser as part of their transplant package. It helps them heal much quicker after the transplant and gives them a tool to use for the remaining native hair. The Link Issue 15, Fall 2015 35
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The Link The Voice of the AHLC
Tricks of the Trade: Tape, Clip or Bond? Choosing the best attachment for your client
T
by Susan Kettering, AHLC Executive Director, Owner HRI of Pennsylvania, Pittsburgh
here are different reasons to choose the various attachment options. The conversation begins during the consultation. I set a sufficient amount of time aside for my first meeting with the client. I like to know what their expectations are and what is on their wish list. What he or she has in mind helps to define the possibilities. I am able to then determine the attachment option that will work best with their lifestyle and hairstyle.
Clients often think they know what they want , but confusion can set in because of media and information overload via the Internet. They look at actors and actresses with long, thick, curly hair or super short hairstyles and envision all sorts of possibilities. Things they might have heard, or seen, do not always translate into practical solutions. The truth is, until we explain how different attachments can be used with their existing hair, the client has no clear understanding of what to expect. We attempt to help them make the correct choice so that wearing hair becomes an easy transition. Let’s explore some of the most popular attachments so that you and the client take part in the decision-making process.
TAPE Tape is the oldest form of attachment. Tape has come a long way from when we first started using it in the early 1960’s.
It can be changed every day or worn for three to five days. However, it does have its downside. The area of the scalp that the tape is placed on will lose whatever hair is left on the scalp. If the client is hair free, you may offer this type of attachment. This can be of benefit to you and your client. Being able to put hair on
and take it off allows the client to purchase and wear multiple hair additions, one for work, one for sport and one for dress. This is a great selling point because the look stays constant. No matter what happens to the hair, there is always another.
CLIPS There are three main types of clips, the secure lock, comb clips and French clips. All three have different functions. The Securelock clip is a small one and needs only a little hair to hold into place. It can go anywhere on the head. My male clients usually prefer this one. The Comb clip comes in three different sizes. The amount of hair it holds depends on the size of the clip. These can be sewn into any size hair addition.
The size you choose will depend on the amount of hair the client has. The French clip is like a small barrette and is also used with a small amount of hair. It is one of the original types of attachment and are not readily available. These tend to be less noticeable on clients with very little hair.
BONDING Bonding is the most popular and the strongest of all attachments. There are many types of bonding material and many methods of attachment to the client’s hair. Things like humidity, scalp condition and how active your client is all factor into what type of boding agent you should use. Research each company to find what will work best for each client. Most clients are on a three-week schedule of maintenance. Bonding gives your client the complete freedom to live like they never lost their hair. Ultimately, we need to gain the client’s trust, build a rapport and provide hair replacement solutions that meet not only their needs but their expectations. The Link Issue 15, Fall 2015 37
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theradome.com The Theradome™ LH80 PRO is an over-the-counter (OTC) device FDA-cleared for the treatment of androgenetic alopecia that promotes hair growth in women with female pattern hair loss (FPHL) on the Ludwig and Savin Hair Loss Scale 1-2 with Fitzpratick Skin Types 1-4.
So you should be writing for It’s simple. The American Hair Loss Council is a trade association supporting professionals in every aspect of the hair replacement industry. Yes, we are all experts. Not only because of what we know, but we all possess a yearning to learn more. This coupled with a desire to share what we know and help others. That’s why we do what we do. Isn’t it? We all have something to say and our industry is better-served when we each contribute to the conversation. If you agree with this simple philosophy, you should be sharing your ideas with or writing for The Link.
But don’t just take our word for it: Writing articles for your trade association’s magazines allow you to share your opinions and gain exposure with a greater audience. Authors are perceived as instant subject matter experts, which can attract media attention, dazzle clients and prospects, create opportunities for speaking engagements, and so much more. If this is on your list of goals, move it up to top priority!
Most people who get paid to speak are published often. It’s instant credibility, especially when it’s helping others learn. Plus, you’ll be amazed how much you learn by teaching. Trade news organizations are often operating with very lean staffs. Your contribution could be a great fit. Establish yourself as an expert and people will eventually know you as a “go-to” authority.
THE CAREER COACH
You want to be recognized as an expert in your field, a specialist with trustworthy credentials that establishes your credibility... Write an article in an industry magazine. Once done, you’ll be a published writer in your industry. People will see your name and appreciate your insight.
Get writing! After doing the appropriate amount of research required to share your expertise, publish as much quality literature on your subject as you can. Having some published material will demonstrate your knowledge of the subject matter and act as a “pre-sell” of your information. Experts in business have many doors open for them once they become established and respected. With hard work and dedication, two qualities you undoubtedly possess already, you can position yourself as an expert and reap the benefits that go along with it.
The Better Business Bureau
Managing Editor: Janine Thornhill
Contact: 615.721.8085 or thelink@ahlc.org