The Link, Issue 2 by The AHLC

The First FDA Approved Medical Device Proven to Stimulate Hair Growth in Women Now there is a clinically proven, non-drug, non-invasive medical treatment option for the estimated 27 million women suffering from androgenic alopecia (pattern baldness). The breakthrough MEP-90 Hair Growth Stimulation System employs laser biostimulation, and is proven in clinical studies to promote measurable new hair growth. • The only FDA-cleared device specifically for female hair-loss patients, the MEP-90 is a Class II medical device that meets the same FDA laser safety code as lasers employed in Lasik surgery, laser pain therapy, and other medical laser procedures.

You now have a treatment option specifically for female patients with androgenic alopecia.

MEP-90 Hair Growth Stimulation System Device Listing Number:

• The MEP-90 is available to licensed physicians Salon Owners

only and offers an FDA-approved treatment for a The MEP-90condition is available licensed physicians only and devastating for to which few medical options offerspreviously an FDA-approved treatment for a devastating were available.* condition for which few medical options were previously

(*While there has been a proliferation of ‘cosmetic’ lasers marketed to available.* salons, spas and hair loss clinics, they are not indicated for medical use by the FDA and are coming under increasing scrutiny by federal and state regulatory agencies.) Salon owners may implement the MEP-90 as a medical

solution for hair loss and take advantage of our network which offers supervision from a licensed physician, marketing programs and personalized training. (*While there has been a proliferation of ‘cosmetic’ lasers marketed to salons, spas and hair loss clinics, they are not indicated for medical use by the FDA and are coming under increasing scrutiny by federal and state regulatory agencies.)

Midwest RF MEP-90 Brochure.indd 2

2134565

510(k) Number:

K091496

Regulatory Class:

Class II

Product Code:

OAP

Regulation Number:

21CFR §890.5500

Regulation Name:

Infrared Lamp

Usage:

Prescription

Laser Classification:

Class 3r

Measured Wavelength ( I ):

650nm (+≤.8%)

Measured Power Output:

≤3mwcm2

The MEP-90 is a non-heating lamp as described under the provisions of 21 CFR §890.5500 and is indicated for: Medically prescribed use for the treatment of androgenic alopecia in females; The treatment of androgenic alopecia in females by promoting hair growth of females with androgenic alopecia who have Ladwig and Savin Hair Loss Scale classifications of I to II and who have been determined to have a Fitzpatrick Skin Typing of I to IV.

How the MEP-90 Works

Powerful, Proven Results

This medically prescribed choice utilizes a flexible treatment

Androgenic alopecia has a profound emotional effect on

schedule of Low Level Laser Therapy (LLLT) treatments to the total scalp area. Unlike medical lasers designed to cut, burn

women. The MEP-90 offers proven results. In a threephased clinical study conducted by Dr. Grant Koher of

or vaporize hair follicles, these ‘cold lasers’ are designed to

the Koher Center for Hair Restoration, subjects received

stimulate hair growth in a comfortable treatment procedure.

36 scheduled 20-minute treatments over a period of 18

• The MEP-90 is a contoured laser with 82 low-level laser light

weeks. The MEP-90 demonstrated clinical efficacy in stimulating significant measurable hair growth:

diodes completely covering the scalp with measured light stimulation. During the treatments, the laser light energy stimulates blood flow and cellular metabolism in the scalp, using a scientific principal called photobiostimulation. • Clinical studies suggest that twice-weekly 20-minute treatments over the course of six months produces remarkable results in the vast majority of patients

• 97% demonstrated an increased hair count of 20% • 89% demonstrated an increased hair count of 30% • 57% demonstrated an increased hair count of 50%

It is believed that increased tissue oxygenation plays a significant role in the proven effectiveness of laser hair therapy. 18-Week Hair Count Distribution 35

After the 36th treatment, 97% of the subject population demonstrated an increased hair count of 20%. A total of 89% of all subjects demonstrated an increased hair count of 30%, with 57% demonstrating an increased hair count of 50%.

30 25 20 15 10 5 0 0-20%

21-30%

31-40%

41-50%

51%

www.midwestrf.com Contact: gmg@midwestrf.com

8/1/11 3:19 PM

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

MESSAGE FROM THE AHLC BOARD Membership: Strength in Numbers Betty Bugden, Membership Director Membership. What does it mean to you? My father raised me to always support the ones who support you. The American Hair Loss Council, AHLC, is the only unbiased, not-for-profit organization that exists to supports the hair replacement industry. In the early 1990’s, while attending a national cosmetology convention, I met an AHLC member from Ohio. He was conducting a class on hair replacement and afterwards, he took the the time to talk to me. This created an interest in pursuing a career in hair replacement. Since I am from a very small town in Pennsylvania and had limited opportunities for education in alternate fields of cosmetology, I realized that by joining the AHLC I would be able to network with other hair replacement specialists and have the opportunity to learn more about the hair replacement industry. After joining the AHLC, I got to know many individuals who wanted to share their experience and knowledge with beginners and made many friends. Today, we seem to have forgotten the value of being a part of an organization. We feel we are too busy and it is not necessary. However, people who want to succeed are members of organizations. All of our members are sharing people and are not afraid to help each other by sharing their secrets. Our members want to continue to learn and grow in order to be successful.

Member Benefits: •Web presence: Your business will be listed in our member directory at www.ahlc.org. The directory is made up of AHLC members nationwide. Anyone can search our directory for a hair replacement specialists. This listing alone is worth the price of membership. Our web statistics show that each month about 1,500 people search our member directory to find a hair replacement specialist. •We provide an online forum for members under our member section. Here you can post suggestions or get advice. This is one of the many ways to network with your peers. •Free subscription to our quarterly publication, The Link, The Voice of the AHLC. •Annual conference for members only. Our conference is unique in our industry because a variety of vendors and manufacturers display and teach at a single conference. See page 22. •AHLC Professional Certification and Facility Accreditations. •Apply for a Master’s Certification. The Master’s Certification is earned by accruing points for education, professional work experience and participation in AHLC activities. See page 25. •Exclusive discounts from member manufacturers for products and continued education. See page 24.

Membership Information: For more information call 570.462.1101 or visit www.ahlc.org. For a membership form visit www.ahlc.org or email info@ahlc.org 4 The Link Winter 2012

The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council is the official, quarterly publication of the American Hair Loss Council. For information on advertising or contributing to content, please contact us: The American Hair Loss Council 30 South Main, Shenandoah, PA 17976 615.601.AHLC (2452) or info@ahlc.org

The Link Staff:

Senior Editor: René Meier Managing Editor: Janine Thornhill Design and Layout: e-zign Design Group, www.e-zign.com Creative Director: Terrell Thornhill

Contributors:

Thea D. Chassin, Founder and President, Bald Girls Do Lunch, Scarborough, NY Shelly A. Friedman, M.D., Scottsdale Institute for Cosmetic Dermatology, Scottsdale, AZ Dr. David H. Kingsley, Ph.D., President, World Trichology Society, Staten Island, NY Sheryl McCaleb, Owner, Hair Prosthesis Institute, Nashville, TN Rhonda McCarthy, Top Business Development Executive, On Rite Company, Ft. Lauderdale, FL Leanne Molter, Marketing Coordinator, Marketing Solutions, Inc., Fairfax, VA Jeff Pulford, President, Insure Beauty, Salinas, CA Jennifer Raikes, Executive Director of the Trichotillomania Learning Center, Santa Cruz, CA Randy Veliky, COO and Chief Technology Officer, Lexington International, LLC., Boca Raton, FL Regina Villemure, Founder/CEO, Children With Hairloss, South Rockwood, MI

AHLC Board of Directors:

Peggy Thornhill, President Marsha Scott, Vice President Susan Kettering, Executive Director Betty Ann Bugden, Treasurer/Membership Director René Meier, Board Member-Elect Joseph Ellis, Board Member-Elect

The opinions expressed in The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the views of the American Hair Loss Council. The advertisements in The Link do not necessarily reflect the beliefs, opinions or attitudes of the AHLC and does not imply product or service endorsement. The American Hair Loss Council © 2011. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Published by e-zign Design Group.www.e-zign.com

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

ON THE COVER: 20 13 14 24 29 36

We Want You! The Importance of Membership Lots of Love for Any Child Experiencing Hair Loss In Depth with Tony Sciara of New Image Exclusive Discounts for Members Is Your Booth Renter Really an Employee? The Legality of Lasers

Medical: 6 7 9

Not Your Father’s Transplant Trichology, A Holistic Approach Reaching Out to Women with Medically Induced Hair Loss

Features:

10 22 25 31 33 35 38 41

Extensions for Post-Chemotherapy Patients The AHLC 2012 Annual Conference Master’s Certification Highlights Handheld Lasers 8 Strategies for Success with Alopecia Clients Tips from the “Trichsters” Sheryl Shoots From the Hip Anatomy of the Two-Sided Tape

In Every Issue:

4 26 27 32 39 42

Message from the Board New and Renewed Member Listings Member Spotlight: Marti Salvi AHLC Academy Class Listings Industry Events New Product Spotlight

Subscription Information:

PAGE

Subscriptions to The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council are mailed FREE to members of the AHLC within the continental United States. International members are provided digital copies free. Please contact us for additional shipping rates if you are an AHLC member outside the US and wish to receive a printed edition. Non-member subscription price: $60 anually within the continental United States, $85 International. To become a member, renew your membership, or subscribe to The Link as a non-member, please contact Betty Ann Bugden, Membership Director, 570-462-1101 or log on to www.AHLC.org. Cover Illustration by: James Montgomery Flagg

The Link Winter 2012 5

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Not Your Father’s Transplant by Dr. Shelly A. Friedman

o appreciate today’s hair transplant, one must realize how far we have travelled over the past fifty years. Today, we can transplant up to 6,000 follicular unit grafts in one surgery depending on the donor region density, scalp elasticity, and the degree of baldness. Many patients can achieve the density and coverage they desire in one surgery, not the multiple surgeries required in the past.

When hair transplantation was introduced in the 1950’s, a four-millimeterpunch was used to harvest hair and the surrounding tissue. These plugs, as they were called, were removed with a cylindrical punch either manually or with an electric drill and healed with a white, round scar. The harvested plugs were then inserted into the scalp after a 3.5 mm punch removed the bald skin. The typical plug had approximately 15-25 permanent or terminal hairs. Today, donor hair is harvested by excising a narrow, elliptical strip of tissue from the back of the scalp, where the follicles are resistant to hair loss. Using stereoscopic microscopes, donor strips are then slivered or divided into very fine scalp sections, approximately two millimeters thick. The slivers are then dissected into individual follicular units (one, two, three, or four hairs) using the stereoscopic microscope. This process yields a higher number of intact follicular unit grafts from the available, limited donor hair. The length of the follicular unit graft is also measured in order to determine how deep the recipient site should be to accommodate the graft. After determining the width of the graft, custom-made blades are cut to match the width of the graft exactly. The length of the follicular unit graft is then measured and 6 The Link Winter 2012

the graft is carefully placed in a blade holder to match the length exactly. This duplicates nature and assures a better cosmetic outcome since each patient’s grafts are a different length. By preparing recipient sites with custom blades, we are able to place the grafts closer together and reduce the possibility of vascular injury or trauma.

Dense Packing The same number of follicular unit grafts or hairs placed over the same recipient area can appear totally different. The appearance of density is not only dependent on the number of grafts, but also on hair color, quality and texture. Contrast between hair color and scalp color is an important consideration. The more contrast, the more hair required to achieve optical density. Curly or wavy hair appears to achieve more optical density because it camouflages the skin to a greater extent than straight hair. Hair texture is one of the most important factors influencing the number of grafts required for a specified area of the scalp. Hair shafts can either be very fine, fine, medium, medium coarse or coarse. The difference depends on the width of Before the hair: the wider or thicker the hair, the more optical surface density will be visualized. Because each individual has a unique texture width, we customize a recipient site blade to perfectly match the width of the follicular unit graft. In the past, recipient sites were made with pre-cut manufactured blades that were one-size-fits-all. With custom-cut blades, we place the grafts closer together to attain more density per square centimeter. These custom blades have allowed hair transplant surgeons to densely pack fine hair without

compromising blood supply. We can transplant 50-60 follicular unit grafts per square centimeter in the hairline and approximately 40 follicular units per square centimeter over the frontal, midscalp and vertex.

Megasessions There is no defined number of grafts transplanted per surgery that is widely accepted in the hair transplant community. Some offices may arbitrarily define a megasession as the transplantation of 2,000 or more grafts in one surgery, whereas other offices would define a megasession as 3,000 or more. The reason we perform megasessions is due to the fact that the greater the number of grafts transplanted per surgery, the faster the cosmetic coverage of the balding areas and fewer surgeries

After

are required. This translates into less patient downtime and time spent trying to camouflage the post-operative appearance. Thanks to megasessions, patients who have postponed hair transplantation due to reluctance of undergoing multiple surgeries can achieve acceptable coverage and density in one or two surgeries. We can achieve a totally undetectable, natural appearance your father would not believe.

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Trichology, A Holistic Approach by: Dr. David H. Kingsley, Ph.D.

richology is a specialty that links cosmetology and dermatology. It is one of the fastest growing areas of hair care, and certified trichologists are the specialists that are often best able to help people with hair or scalp problems. The public want answers and want them given from a position of authority. A trichologist can function as the eyes and ears of the physician. Often the trichologist will identify conditions ranging from iron deficiency to thyroid problems which show up before other signs and symptoms. Identifying these conditions can lead to early diagnosis and treatment.

Trichology is the scientific study which includes all aspects of the hair and scalp in both health and disease. Trichologists come from many disciplines, often in mid-career, having first worked in a field which is related or provides useful and relevant skills. Trichologists usually approach helping people with hair or scalp problems holistically. Unfortunately, trichology is not a regulated profession and sadly anyone can call themselves a trichologist. Consequently, a few

commercial establishments and individuals have given the profession a bad name. A certified trichologist develops a high level of skill because they see nothing but hair problems day in and day out. Some centers may work in close liaison with a medically qualified colleague. Hair loss conditions are not always simple and the primary cause may be exacerbated by secondary factors. For instance, a condition of genetic hair loss may be accelerated with a poor diet or increased stress. It is also possible to have two or more simultaneous primary causes of hair loss. Improvement is often quicker if all these issues are addressed. Trichologists search for the answers that other disciplines may not have time to find. The time that trichologists devote to each patient often exceeds that which can be provided by a physician. Initial consultations and history-taking often take up to an hour. Regular follow-up and monitoring of responses to treatment is also a normal part of trichology.

FIND US ON Facebook.com/Cyberhair Twitter.com/Inthair

The Link Winter 2012â&#x20AC;&#x192; 7

Dermatologist Formulated Natural Hair Loss Solution

RESTORE HAIR WITH AN EASY TOPICAL APPLICATION Recommended by Dermatologists in over 25 Countries!

Special Offer for AHLC Members!

877-512-4247 WWW.REVIVOGEN.COM

Special Offers For AHLC Members!

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Reaching Out to Women with Medically-Induced Hair Loss by: Rhonda McCarthy

e all know the history of the hair replacement business. While the men’s market developed and grew into a very profitable industry, about 10–15 years ago our industry stepped out of our comfort zone and realized that women lost hair too . Recent studies suggest that half of all women will experience hair loss before the age of 50. Today, most hair replacement retailers will tell you that women represent a large portion of their active client bases. More importantly, they represent the largest growth opportunity.

Even though our industry has changed, a different segment of women remained largely ignored. These are women whose lives were changed dramatically, almost overnight, with a medical diagnosis. The demand for products and services catering to women who undergo medical treatments such as surgery and chemotherapy has never been higher. The challenge with this market is to reach the consumer. When women experience hair loss over time, they begin to research and will eventually find their way to help. When a woman is diagnosed with cancer their lives change rapidly. They are diagnosed and undergo surgery which is immediately followed by treatments including chemotherapy. At this point women are overwhelmed and barely hanging on. They following their medical team’s instructions, undergoing tests and x-rays, keeping their families and jobs functioning, and then they are told they are likely to lose their hair within about 10 days. They turn to their nurses for advice.

As you can imagine, nurses are extremely protective of their patients and are very careful not to recommend a specific business unless they know that their patients will be treated fairly and with respect. So, how do you get nurses to recommend you?

In order to get your business ready have a clean, warm, relaxing and private area set up. The aesthetics of the location of your wigs and where they are fitted should be warm, relaxing, feminine, friendly and boutique-like. Privacy is very important, a curtain strategically placed will serve the purpose. Provide friendly, non-fluorescent or harsh lighting to make your women feel and look beautiful. Your display is not only important when consulting with the customer, but the fact is every consumer who walks in your door knows two to five women

who are currently experiencing medically induced hair loss, and women like to share information. Your next objective is to build your network map. Search the internet to locate every medical facility that would come in contact with women who experience medically induced hair loss. This includes cancer centers, hematology and oncology offices, dermatologists and OBGYN offices, to name a few. Call the American Cancer Society and inform them that you retail wigs. They have a list of providers that is handed out to cancer patients. When making your calls, remember that medical facilities are very busy, so it’s a good idea to have practiced your message beforehand. Make sure your message includes what sets you apart. Let the receptionist know that you are willing to be place on hold, if need be. This will reduce their frustration. Ask to speak with the nurse navigator, or whomever sets appointments. Ask for the opportunity to introduce them the services you provide for their patients. Keep really good notes and remember to follow up. Take brochures for them to hand out to patients as well as samples of your wigs, both synthetic and human hair. Most importantly, when a nurse sends a client to you, remember that she will be going back to see her nurse for treatment. Make sure she is happy and ask her to share her experience with her nurse. Once a nurse feels comfortable sending patients to you, she will refer more. The Link Winter 2012 9

Why be

ordinary

when you can be

Extraordinary?

by: Leanne Molter

s with any professional service, it is vitally important to do the research and to have all the proper training before offering professional hair extension services to a client who has undergone chemotherapy treatments. Many clients want professional salon hair extensions, yet some have hair that is so damaged it makes the application challenging. For example, if the client is a post-chemotherapy patient, their hair will be so fine and delicate that it will take an extra careful application to make their hair extensions work with no damage to their new hair.

Specialized Education: As a hair replacement specialist, it is important to become highly educated on all of the available hair extension and wig products you use. Read as many articles as you can in major trade publications and attend hands-on certification and advanced technique seminars. While most hair extension companies require certification for bonded applications, you must stay up-to-date on all of the available services, equipment, techniques and products. Having extra education improves your credibility.

Hair Loss Consultations:

WWW.DIBIASEHAIRUSA.COM • 248-885- 4748 38455 Hills Tech Drive • Suite 200 • Farmington Hills, MI 48335 USA

A consultation is a very important part of the education process when helping hair loss and post-chemotherapy patients achieve their desired image through reconstructive hair extension services. Take the time to listen to their needs, wants and desires before you offer the best solutions. It is important to share all of the potential customized service options and after-care requirements with each client. Your client must have at least two inches of hair to have professionally bonded hair extensions successfully applied. Shorter-length hair extensions will need to be used at first. Your client’s desired hairstyle and look may take a series of services. It will take time for their own hair to be strong and long enough to handle shoulder-length hair extensions.

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

for Post-Chemotherapy Patients Your consultations should preferably be held in a private room, where the client will feel comfortable speaking openly. Consultations prior to each visit are the best tool to plan a strategy for each individual so that the client fully understands the process and hair care strategy. Be clear that short, fine hair needs

hair loss to your client’s ultra-fine hair. The best option is a keratin-tipped, fusion-bonded hair extension applied with heat. To help keep the reconstructive look in the optimal condition, it is best to use very small micro-bonds, often no bigger than half a grain of rice. This customized, smaller bond will help to hide the bond and keep it light, thus preventing any extra stress on your client’s hair. Another way to help reduce stress on the client’s hair is to flatten the bonds to evenly distribute the weight on the hair.

Marketing Essentials:

monthly touch-ups for both hair color and in order to maintain their extensions. The bonds of the extensions may become visible if their hair grows out too much. Finally, help your clients’ hair extensions look great and last as long as possible by recommending care instructions along with the best possible shampoos, conditioners, hairbrushes and appliances.

Select The Best Quality Hair Extensions: One of the most important points to consider when providing a professional hair extension service to post-chemotherapy patients is the quality of the hair you are using. The best hair extensions for the post-chemotherapy patient’s baby fine and delicate hair will need to be lightweight and have a lightweight bond. The quality of the hair you select is very important after such a traumatic experience as chemotherapy, as better quality hair will give your client a much more natural-looking head of hair. Many hair extension companies treat their hair differently. Some companies chemically bathe the hair and others use hand-washing techniques. This important factor should be considered when trying to find the best hair extensions brand for your specialized services. Since a post-chemotherapy patient has such delicate hair, certain bonding techniques should be avoided. You do not want to ever damage their incoming new and natural hair growth. Bond types like sticker or adhesive hair, I-tips, and weaves should be avoided as they may cause extra stress, breakage and

Networking and word-of-mouth referrals are usually the most successful and powerful way to grow your clientele. Create specialized service menus, fliers, direct-mail postcards, email blasts and counter cards as merchandising and marketing tools to share with local hospitals and medical professionals who treat post-chemotherapy patients. Ask how to connect with support groups in your area and offer to visit these support groups as a guest speaker. Create presentations that explain your services as well as before and after photographs and testimonials. Marketing and servicing your chemotherapy and hair loss clients will take extra care, education and service, yet the rewards are always worthwhile. Hair extensions are a great way to build their self-esteem and confidence as well as to help restore their self-image.

The Link Winter 2012 11

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

DIE NEUE BELLE MADAME ECHTHAARKOLLEKTION: Ready-to-wear macht den Unterschied

Adriana RH Dark-Red-Mix

CREATIVE STYLING

Eins thing ist sicher: aktuelle BELLE One is forDie sure! The new BELLE MADAME ECHTHAARKOLLEKTION zeigt MADAME HUMAN HAIR COLLECTION spätestens im täglichen Umgang, wie viel DIE NEUE BELLE MADAME ECHTHAARKOLLEKTION: presents charme and innovation. Innovation und Charme in ihr steckt. So The new sind die neuen „ready-to-wear“ “Ready-To –Wear” models Modelle are an evolution Ready-to-wear macht den Unterschied eine konsequente Weiterentwicklung of the current models ANASTASA and der bisherigen Modelle ANASTASIA und VALENTINA. They astound with their superb VALENTINA. Sie bestechen allesamt Eins ist sicher: Die aktuelle BELLE durch ihre hochwertige MADAME ECHTHAARKOLLEKTION zeigt Hair. foundations and highMontur qualityund Remy

Adriana RH Dark-Red-Mix

beste Qualität des verwendeten Remyspätestens im täglichen Umgang, wie viel Echthaares. Innovation und Charme in ihr steckt. So sind die neuenalso „ready-to-wear“ Modelle This collection includes the Aucheine in diesem Bereich kommt die heiß konsequente Weiterentwicklung popular SUPER-FRONT-TECHNOLOGIE begehrte SUPER-FRONT-Technik zum und der bisherigen Modelle ANASTASIA Tragen. Zudem ermöglichen sehr viele andVALENTINA. many newSie andbestechen modern allesamt colors. neuedurch natürliche eine unvergleichihre Farben hochwertige Montur und barebeste Auswahl. Maßgeschneidert für alle Qualität des verwendeten RemyEchthaares. Auch in diesem Bereich kommt die heiß begehrte SUPER-FRONT-Technik zum Tragen. Zudem ermöglichen sehr viele neue natürliche Farben eine unvergleichbare Auswahl. Maßgeschneidert für alle

Anastasia RH 6/10-6

12 The Link Winter 2012

The new collection candiebeModelle easily applied for Haarprobleme lassen sich einfachtypes und unkompliziert anlegen und many of hair loss conditions; they are überzeugen durch einen einzigartigen comfortable and very natural. This collection Tragekomfort und Natürlichkeit, so dass das vielschichtige für jede indioffers a solution individual demand. Anastasia Long Sortiment RH for each

CREATIVE STYLING

Anastasia Long RH Champagne-Root

Anastasia RH 6/10-6

Champagne-Root viduelle Anforderung die richtige Lösung bietet. Haarprobleme lassenissich Modellesuccess Particularly positive thedie current Besonders ist hier der bisherige einfachpositiv und unkompliziert anlegen und of ANASTASIA LONG RH. This pre-cut Erfolg des neuendurch Modells ANASTASIA überzeugen einen einzigartigen LONG RHhair zu bewerten. Die Echthaarhuman wig is Natürlichkeit, available inso13-15” Tragekomfort und dass and perücke mit Vorschnitt lässt sich mit das vielschichtige Sortiment für jede indioptimal for many creative styles. ihrerviduelle Länge von 35 – 40 cm Anforderung die optimal richtige für Lösung kreative Stylings einsetzen. bietet.

European Imports BesondersHair positiv ist hier der bisherige 1920 EastdesOakland ParkANASTASIA Blvd. Erfolg neuen Modells FortLONG Lauderdale, FL 33306 RH zu bewerten. Die Echthaar866-681-HAIR (4247) lässt sich mit perücke mit Vorschnitt ihrer Länge von 35 – 40 cm optimal für kreative Stylings einsetzen.

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

LOTS of LOVE

for ANY Child Experiencing Hair Loss

by: Regina Villemure

Did you know Children With Hairloss accepts hair donations? Children With Hairloss was created as a resource for ALL children with medically-related hair loss. Our mission is to empower these children to become whole again by making hair available to those who may be financially challenged and might otherwise not have a means of obtaining the hair they want and need. Our goal is to assist as many of these children as possible while changing their lives by improving their outlook and empowering them with a degree of self-confidence that enables them to face the world with renewed selfesteem. The only requirements we have are a birth certificate and a note from a social worker or doctor stating the reason for their hair loss. Each child receives a custom-fit hair replacement system. Volunteer hair replacement specialists donate their services to customize each piece. If one of our stock hair replacements, made from human hair, does not work well for an individual child, a mold is made so we can order a custom hair replacement. We send the system to the recipient and they take it with them to the hair replacement specialist to customize the fit. We provide what works for each child. In addition, each child receives a care kit containing a band of hair to wear under a head covering, 2 head coverings of

their choice, shampoo, conditioner, hair spray, smoothing treatment, a brush and comb, a drying stand, a clamp and a styling form. A child may return each year, until age 21, to receive our services, a human hair replacement and care kit, all at no charge. To volunteer, contact us or fill out our form on our website. We will add your studio to our directory of volunteer hair replacement specialists. We provide the products if you are willing to provide a few minutes of your professional time. We try not to impose too much on any one studio. The rewards of seeing a child smile is life changing. All hair donated to Children With Hairloss is used to make hair replacement pieces for our recipients. Several times a year, with the help of numerous dedicated volunteers, donated hair is sorted and sent to manufacturers to make bands of hair and hair replacements. We also purchase hair replacement systems from manufacturers, some of which give us a discount. We strive to have hair replacement pieces available immediately once Children With Hairloss receives and processes a request.

How to Donate Hair: Print the hair donation form at www.childrenwithhairloss.us Hair must clean and dry Hair must be 8-inches or longer (longer is always better) Hair must be ponytailed or braided with rubber-band on each end, this keeps hair in one direction (braided is preferred) Non-Chemically treated hair is preferred Permed or colored hair is accepted as long as it is in good condition

2 3

Gray hair is accepted Place donation form and hair in a sealed plastic bag Mail to: Children With Hairloss, Inc. 12776 S. Dixie Highway South Rockwood, Michigan 48179 Each donor is given a certificate of appreciation for their kind donation. (Hair donations may also be made anonymously.) A monetary donation of $7 covers the cost of a hat for a child. If you donate $20 you will receive a t-shirt that says, â&#x20AC;&#x153;I DONATED MY HAIR TO CHILDREN WITH HAIRLOSS.â&#x20AC;? More ways you can help support Children With Hairloss are listed at www.childrenwithhairloss.us

The Link Winter 2012â&#x20AC;&#x192; 13

IN DEPTH WITH

Tony President of New Image Labs West Palm Beach, FL

An Industry Veteranâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s View of the Hair Loss Industry from its Genesis to Now.

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Sciara

AHLC EXCLUSIVE by: Janine Thornhill

AHLC: With over 30 years of experience,

Tony: Between 1985 and 1990 there was

you are a veteran in the hair loss industry and uniquely positioned to speak about how it has evolved. How did you get into the hair replacement business?

a major transition in hair production. Most of the product was produced in South Korea. As South Korea developed and the economy progressed so did the wage requirements, making it difficult in turn to find suitable skilled workers. Concerned with the imminent disappearance of our supply chain, Randy Martin and I decided to explore other possibilities and in January of 1986 traveled, for the first time, to mainland China. It was more of a challenge than

Tony: I started with the Martin family in 1981, in Canada. In their early days they had a production facility in Canada as well as multi-hair studios in western and central markets. “First Lady” was founded in the early 1960’s when ladies’ wigs, especially those made with Italian human hair, were a huge fashion trend. The retail segment of the business expanded rapidly throughout the west and in the late 1970’s First Lady moved its headquarters west to Toronto. At this point, the company was well entrenched with retail locations within major department stores. When I came on board, in 1981, we branched out into the beauty salon segment with import distribution within Canada. New Image was an established brand of First Lady. We decided to expand into the US market under that brand. Around 1983, we opened our first location in New Jersey. From there we launched the expansion of our hair replacement products, which developed into what you know today. In 1986 the operation was relocated to Florida where we have been headquartered ever since. For me the business, as well as the entire industry, has become a real passion. I am excited to have been part of its evolution and witness the many great milestones throughout the years.

AHLC: Expanding to China was a huge milestone. Can you share some of your experiences from the early years?

...we landed on a cement landing strip in the middle of the countryside surrounded by farmland... They came out to the plane to unload the luggage onto ox-driven carts. we had anticipated. We had to go to the Chinese embassy in the US, state our case, then a Chinese trade union had to officially invite us in. This turned out to be a long process that took about six months. We were one of the first in our industry to start working in mainland China. Our initial venture took us to Qingdao, which is in the north-central region of China. In 1986 you could not get a direct flight to Qingdao. We had had to fly from Hong Kong (a three hour

flight) to Beijing where we would stay overnight. The flight to Qingdao was another couple of hours. I still remember that when we arrived in Qingdao we landed on a cement landing strip in the middle of the countryside surrounded by farmland which, at that time, was mostly mud. They came out to the plane to unload the luggage onto ox-driven carts. We had to walk on sparingly placed boards over the mud to a barn in order to collect our luggage from the ox carts. The hotel was one that had been abandoned by the Japanese during the war. It was a real adventure from this point on. There was no running water. Rust came out of the tap. You couldn’t wash or even brush your teeth. Why Qingdao? This is where the Chinese human hair was collected, which as it turned out was more of a problem than a solution for us. They had lots of hair available, but the hair was treated more as a trading commodity than a production item. Our challenge was only the tip of the iceberg. The workers were diligent and hard-working but it took a long time before they understood efficiency and quality control. Although there was an abundance of raw human hair available it was not suitable for the European hair texture we required. We had to source hair out of India and Europe and then import the hair into China. Hair collection and selection has become much more sophisticated now. Back then it was just another raw material. The hair cost was reasonable at that time, however by the time we sorted and processed the hair, we were lucky to have five to ten percent usable product. It took us over five years before we were able to start getting acceptable hair out of China and the rest is history. The Link Winter 2012 15

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

AHLC: It sounds like you were instrumental in setting up the industry in China?

Tony: I can’t take all the credit. We could not have done it without the help of some partners from Korea and Hong Kong. It was a huge, joint effort. With everyone pitching in, we were able to bring the production to a standard where it equaled and surpassed even South Korea. Today, China has by far surpassed any level of technology that they had back then.

a green military uniform (working class). In the 1980’s, during the cultural revolution, communist leadership sent everyone to live in the countryside. Whether you were a medical doctor or a farmer, everyone was of the same class structure. Today they enjoy wealth, are more educated and can own real estate and cars.

to ensure continuity and consistency. It is my prediction that we are going to get to a point where our product is no longer interesting to the Chinese work force. I believe this will happen much sooner than later.

AHLC: Can you sum up the differences between the early stages to now?

AHLC: What is the production like in China today?

Tony: Our product is still what I call a craft. It is not a technology-driven product. Although difficult to imagine, hair systems continue to be 100 percent hand made. The production process is extremely labor intensive. Highly skilled hands touch every part of the product at each level and stage of production. The amount of hours that goes into a regular top-ofthe-head unit for men can surpass 120 hours of labor, which is probably more Tony Sciara with AHLC President, Peggy Thornhill at the New Image Conference manual labor than goes into building a car today. If you calculate this according to the averTony: When I first started, the distribuIn early 2000, things were changing age minimum wage, say eight dollars an quickly in the Chinese marketplace and tion networks were there, but they were hour, you already have, at a minimum, not as sophisticated as they are today. we decided to be proactive, as we saw $800 worth of labor in each piece. That Most companies bought hair solutions the same indications of rapid progdoes not include all the material. The from the Philippines, Korea, Haiti, etc. ress as in South Korea. Subsequently, unit is now worth more than some preThe industry was very fragmented. A I moved to Hong Kong to be within cious metals. lot of synthetic hair was sold for men. reasonable access to the supply chain. Long-term wearers were non-existent I moved there also with the mandate AHLC: Are there still workers in China and tape-on units were the norm. When to improve productivity in China, to today who want to become experts at companies like Hair Club, HRS and New increase and handle volume, to develop making hairpieces? Man stepped up the business model to standards for production and also a whole new level, with well thought search for possibilities for alternaTony: Well, progress has changed the out marketing campaigns directed at tive sources outside China. Our initial environment in China. When we first consumers, the game changed. option was to expand production faciliwent to China, back in 1986, no one ties in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam and owned a house and people had a meager additionally in Hanoi. We are now also AHLC: Talking about today, many of our existence. There were two classes of members are saying that the quality of in Cambodia and currently exploring people. Either you wore a blue milithe hair is not the same. What do you opportunities in Myanmar. We are contary uniform (government official) or think of that? stantly looking for a reliable labor pool 16 The Link Winter 2012

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Tony: Quality is subjective. The reason I say that is because we have in place a process and strategy to provide consistent quality. Let’s remember that we are taking raw human hair, putting it through about six different processes, starting by stripping the cuticle and removing the pigment out of the hair. By the time we are done, we have a skeleton of what used to be real human hair. Then we have to rebuild the hair, applying multiple techniques to get back to a usable product that we see on our units. Say you have hair with a thickness of 40 denier, when you strip it by going through the chemical processes, you are now down to 20. European hair is about 45 to 50 denier. Indian hair is similar in thickness and texture. When you take hair and process it to this extent, so many things can go wrong. In addition there are other factors to consider, for one the outside temperature and humidity in the air. I equate it to a chef in the kitchen. There are so many elements that can affect the final results. We have extremely high standards and stringent quality control. Our standards only allow the processing of small batches of hair, about five to ten kilos at time, whereas the standard in the industry is about 40 to 50 kilos at a time. It costs more to process smaller amounts, but it enables us to maintain quality more effectively. This is such a sensitive process that 100 grams of hair in a batch that has some damage can contaminate the whole batch. We have some of the most experienced workers in the industry, but when out of 100 strands of hair, you have a few strands that aren’t right it is difficult to find those strands. Ultimately, these damaged strands end up in the unit. The damaged hair tangles slightly and with continued brushing it eventually is stretching out all the surrounding hair. Some may say the quality is poor, but in fact, it is much better than it ever was. Our return rate, due to factory problems, is less than two percent. It may sound like a lot, but it is better than the car industry norm, especially when considering that we are dealing with a hand-made product. Unfortunately it is the bad experiences we tend to remember most. But what

about the other 99 percent? We have more than double the quality checks usually found on a hair production line. Typically there are about four to six steps, New Image has nine to twelve depending on the product design. We have quality checkers who check quality checkers!

AHLC: Are there any other factors that can create “bad hair”?

We have more than double the quality checks usually found on a hair production line. Typically there are about four to six steps, New Image has nine to twelve... We have quality checkers who check quality checkers! Tony: Yes, absolutely. Another factor that can create problems is the way the hair is cut. We use razors and thinning shears to thin the hair. The hair splits and has jagged edges, especially if the tools are not sharp. The hair starts to split within one to two washings. More than 50 to 60 percent of the “bad hair” that is returned is due to the tools used. This is not about the hair cutting, but the tools that are being used as they are not as clean and sharp as they should be. This ultimately creates problems for the hair. These are topics we cover during our classes at our conferences, “Remembering the Basics”. At New Image, we changed our educational focus a couple of years ago. We realized that getting together and networking at conferences is great, but the problem is that we lose sight of the basics. That is how New Image University Online (NIU) was conceived. We provide instantaneous

training, 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. We realized that it was too expensive for hair replacement specialists to travel and spend two days without bringing in revenue. We realized that studio owners needed this information at their fingertips at any time. That is why we launched NIU, currently with over 23 tutorials and we are adding to our library all the time. For one flat fee, a studio can get unlimited access to training material. We feature different access levels for owners and technicians tailored to your needs. NIU is also the perfect solution to train new staff, for example, in full bonding. The training is at your fingertips for as often as you desire or need it. We will also take calls and questions can be emailed to our Resident Hair Experts. We even have a Facebook community supporting the education initiative. Our goal is to have a higher level of education exclusivley designed for the hair replacement industry.

AHLC: Allow us to go back to China one more time. Now that New Image is owned by the Chinese Hiking Group, has anything changed in the way you do business?

Tony: We are the same New Image. Nothing has changed, not our mission statement, nor our staff service levels. We are focused on providing the same high level of service that we are known for. The Hiking Group is a venture capital company with a wide range of investments, one of which happens to be hair. This is the first venture of many to come out of China and we are doing business as usual.

AHLC: The Hiking Group also owns On Rite. Does that mean that New Image and On Rite now use the same factories? Tony: The answer to this is no. We have never shared the same factories and continue to follow our mandate to diversify production in various countries to secure continuity of product. As I mentioned earlier, we have moved production to different factories in Vietnam, Cambodia, and recently Myanmar. This helps us to control our production The Link Winter 2012 17

The Link The Voice of the AHLC and guarantee continuity and consistency. Even though On Rite and New Image are owned by the same company, we continue to have a competitive, but healthy co-existence. The Hiking Group is interested in the continued progress of both companies. Hiking realized that each company has a unique yet different business philosophy and continues to support the diversity. It is a unique situation.

the specialist’s own discretion. In my humble opinion, however, I find it difficult to understand why some studios feel they need to give in and provide cut-in services for customers who walk in with a unit purchased online. If the professional hair replacement specialists agrees to a cut-in or service, it basically is condoning the customer’s purchase option. The customer thinks they are saving money this way, but

service. The professional hair replacement specialist needs to be confident in his/her services, the quality of the products he/she offers and address this competition as they would normally.

AHLC: Would you be willing to support us in an effort to get that message out to the industry?

Tony: Sure, we try to do this as much as we can. The economy has really brought all of this to the surface. We had a business model that worked. The mentality of “if I spend more, it must be better” may not cut it in your market today. Websites that sell hair directly may say that they sell our products, but they really don’t. We don’t sell to the consumer. The consumer does not even know who New Image or On Rite is. That is a handicap that we distributers have. We used to send the hair in these beautiful boxes. Then we found out that the retailers were destroying the boxes because they didn’t want their customers to know who made the hair. Here is an idea! Compete with them. If you feel it’s affecting your business, then be proactive. Don’t wait for someone else to make a move. You create your own destiny in business. Be more aggressive on your websites, look at your service menu and think about how it fits the current market conditions. Become active and follow up with the customers who aren’t with you anymore.

AHLC: We started out with the history of

AHLC: Thank you, Tony. One last question: Many of our members are concerned that, through direct internet purchases, many untrained retailers provide inferior products and services, which in the end is hurting the industry as a whole. What recommendations do you have for the professional hair replacement specialist in order to protect his/her business?

Tony: Direct internet marketers are a competitor and nothing more. They should be treated like any other competitor and addressed accordingly by 18 The Link Winter 2012

the industry, now let’s close with a look into the future. Where do you see the industry going in the next decade? when looking at it closely, they don’t really save. Just do the math. Typically, the person who is shopping online is a wearer. They already know what they want, they have been wearing hair and now are shopping for a socalled better deal. This type of customer represents a small percentage of the market. The kind of customer that has the courage to go online and buy hair doesn’t care what he/she looks like. They cannot match color or blend hair. What will they do if they aren’t satisfied? This can never replace hands-on

Tony: Well, I don’t have a crystal ball, but I am confident that as long as there are people without hair we will continue to have opportunities. Product supply will be the challenge of the future. It is prudent to assure that you are with suppliers that can support and deliver product for you on a continuing basis. We need to stay focused on delivering customer-centric, value-added services and products. The consumer will not consider the value, unless you can deliver what they want.

The Industry’s

Only Online Education Resource

Traditionally, hair professionals travel to educational classes to learn new techniques and new approaches to their business. Now, NIU eliminates the stress and cost of travel by allowing registered users to expand their knowledge and skills at their own pace without even leaving their studio or home. Hands-on tutorials taught by industry veterans plus Resident Hair Experts to get your questions answered in real time make NIU the only ONLINE UNIVERSITY available to the hair replacement industry. Top tier industry education, advice and support right at your fingertips.

Current Curriculum Women’s • Making a Mold • Choosing Women’s Hair • Bleaching Knots on Lace • Coloring Women’s Hair Part 1 • Coloring Women’s Hair Part 2 • Cutting and Styling Full Cap Hair Part 1 • Cutting and Styling Full Cap Hair Part 2 • Highlighting Hair • Spiral Wrap Hair • Designing Hair for Top of the Head Bonding Adhesives • Using Geo Bond

Men’s • Preparing the Scalp • Bonding Lace Hair - Icon • Cutting and Styling Lace Hair Part 1 • Cutting and Styling Lace Hair Part 2 • Bonding Program Hair • Cutting and Styling Program Hair Part 1 • Cutting and Styling Program Hair Part 2 • Designing a Lace - Icon • Perming Yak Hair • Consultation with a male client • Pricing a service program

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NewImage-TheLink-Winter2011.indd 1

11/28/11 1:27 PM

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

A personal appeal from the AHLC Board Peggy Thornhill President

I became involved with the American Hair Loss Council in the early 1980’s. Doing business in the deep south presented many opportunities for big, beauty-pageant hair but no one talked about “the need” that was covered up by a baseball cap and hid under a teased beehive hairdo, until they were in my chair! As they searched for help I felt their pain. Everywhere I went I would see them and the desire to help them consumed me. They needed help and I needed education! Finding solutions and participating in every conference I could afford became my goal. Learning the basics was a start until I was invited to attend an AHLC Conference. It provided connection, purpose, fulfillment and put meaning to the mechanics of hair replacement. Here were people who understood and felt the same burning desire I did. People who connected for the cause, my cause! The honesty, the ethics, the education, the purpose, the expertise, these people had it all, and they were willing to share it with me! The AHLC has always been a driving force in the industry for a higher standard and I am forever grateful. Yes, we want you! We want you to have the connection, purpose, expertise, ethics and much more that the AHLC offers. Becoming a member IS important. It could be one of the best things you ever do. It was for me. 20 The Link Winter 2012

Susan Kettering Executive Director

I joined the AHLC when its first meeting was held in a small hotel, in half of a ballroom, in Chicago, Illinois. A small group of us stayed in that room for two days, talking about the hair industry and how we could all work together for the benefit of the consumer, talk about small beginnings! I left that meeting feeling that I finally had found a group of people whose standards were high and integrity matched my own. We were a team who had the vision, the talent and the desire to share our knowledge with everyone (what a group)! The AHLC still holds it’s members to that same high mark of excellence. That excellence gives us credibility to the consumer. Membership enables us to meet once yearly with numerous manufacturers to gain knowledge about new techniques as well as network to discuss the latest methodologies regarding hair loss treatments. Instead of attempting to gain all of this knowledge on your own, we meet as an organization and benefit from many avenues; our website, our magazine and our colleagues. To this day, The American Hair Loss Council is the only non-profit organization that protects our industry. Please consider becoming a member today and reap the rewards!

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

an organization. Its role is to represent the interests of its membership through industry news, and public awareness. The AHLC is THAT for our industry. Aeducation, professionalhaveaccreditation ll successful industries

It is important that we are united in looking out for our best interest as well as the interest of our clients. Not only can you trust our member manufacturers to advise you as to what is best for your business, the AHLC puts people in front of you that help you grow your business and make you the best professional in your field. If you are new in this business you need the AHLC to set you apart from the rest. If you’re a long-standing member, we can assure you we are improving and working to be better than ever. Remember, we are a volunteer organization working to help each other. We need a common voice, a common goal, common ethics and standards, all to lend credibility to our industry. To become a member or renew contact Betty Ann Bugden, Membership Director, 570-462-1101 or log on to www.AHLC.org.

René Meier

Joseph Ellis

Betty Bugden

Board Member Electee

Membership Director

I have been a member for about five years, first as a retailer and now as a distributer. As a distributer, I know that my products are in the hands of the best professionals in the industry. I have a way to promote our products through The Link and by exhibiting at the annual conference. As a retailer I have the opportunity to get the best education available through AHLC accredited courses. Consider this. Is your dermatologist board certified by the American Board of Dermatology? Is your dentist a member of the American Dental Society? Is your beloved animal being treated by a nationally accredited veterinarian? Who is injecting you with Botox? I hope it’s a board certified plastic surgeon. Yes we are cosmetologists, but who trained you to attach hair systems or hair extensions? Who decides that you are able to perform the services of a hair replacement specialist? There are classes offered teaching various techniques but who is to say that they are teaching you the right way? How do you know that a product is safe to use? The AHLC introduces manufacturers and educators to you. The AHLC accredits educators and their classes. You can become a Master’s Certified hair replacement specialist, so that people suffering from hair loss know they are in the right hands. I urge everyone who is serious about this business to become a member and stay educated.

The American Hair Loss Council is the only not-for-profit, unbiased association hair replacement specialists have for support. We can make a huge difference by joining together to create one loud voice and gather the respect we need to make big changes for the future of our industry. I attended the BVZ’s annual conference in Germany last year. The BVZ is Germany’s version of the AHLC and the only organization of its kind in Germany. I was in awe of the collective unity that existed for hair replacement specialists who live in that country. Judging from the attendees at the conference, their membership appeared to be several hundred strong. Being a member of the BVZ shows that you are respected in your profession. In Germany, people looking for help with hair loss look for a BVZ member, the proven authority in hair replacement. Collectively, we can do the same. We can be heard by the insurance companies. We can go to our state legislature and get laws passed to protect victims of hair loss. We can make a difference. Step up and be an active member so that our voice can become more unified and louder. Along with all the great benefits that you receive, being a member of the American Hair Loss Council helps you grow. Membership provides you a network of your peers and helps you be the best that you can be. Lets all make a difference together.

If you have read my Message from the Board on page four, you already know my thoughts on membership. Without membership we have no unity. We need each member to talk to a friend, in the hair replacement business, and ask them to join our association. Make plans to come to our conference in May and bring a friend with you. Our goal is to provide a place where independent business owners can get information and education from a wide variety of distributors, under one roof. This is such a unique opportunity. This year On Rite, New Image, European Hair Imports, International Hair Goods, and New Concepts Solutions along with the MEP-90 Laser, HairMax, Insure Beauty Insurance and many more are coming together to help us reach our goals. We are so thankful for our member manufacturers. The more members attending, the more the manufactures will be willing to invest in making your trip worth the cost. In our last issue we had a handy chart called “Back to Basics” that covered hair replacement industry terms. In this issue we cover two-sided tape. We welcome your input. We are open to suggestions and want this publication to meet your needs. There are many topics that we can cover in our magazine. What are some other ’basics’s that you’d like a refresher course on? We want you to participate, we want you to be involved. The Link Winter 2012 21

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Includes reakout Classes unday and onday. lso Includes lunch and dinner unday, and lunch onday. Conference fee and for each additional person from the same studio. This conference is an exclusive event for members only.

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To get exclusive conference pricing for room rates, call 1-800-468-3571 or 954626-1707 and mention the AHLC. For early check-ins or late check-outs, you must call the hotel directly to receive your discount. To book your room online, log onto www.marriott.com/fllbr and enter your dates. Under “Special Rates & Awards,” select “Group Code” and enter AHLAHLA. per night, includes buffet breakfast for two registered guests. iscounted selfparking per day and for daily event attendees.

Guest Speaker: Vernon Cole

Founder and president of Hair Restoration Institute (HRI) and Vernon Cole Consulting.

Succeeding in the Receding: Using a Multi-Therapeutic Approach. Cole brings his wealth

of experience and inside industry know-how. He has personally developed and implemented one of a kind training systems, in demand marketing materials, and sought after advertising sales in an ever expanding industry.

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36 scheduled 20-minute treatments over a period of 18 weeks. The MEP-90 demonstrated clinical efficacy in stimulating significant measurable hair growth:

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

• 97% demonstrated an increased hair count of 20%

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genation plays a significant ess of laser hair therapy. To become a member or renew contact Betty Ann Bugden, Membership Director, 570-462-1101 or log on to www.AHLC.org.

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10% off your next order. 866.681.4247, www.europeanhairimports.com

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Insure Beauty Most insurance carriers do not understand the professional liability and medical malpractice exposures of workers in your specialized industry. We have developed programs just for the hair replacement industry. We will review your menu of Special Offer for AHLC Members!

services and your current insurance coverage at not cost. We offer personalized insurance protection at a lower price than you can get on your own and a free gift for each new customer. 855.257.0088, www.insurebeauty.com

24 The Link Winter 2012

The AHLC Master’s Certification Program Highlights:

he Master’s Certification Program honors and promotes members who meet the highest standards in the hair replacement industry. Earned by accruing “points” for education, professional work experience, and participation in AHLC activities, a few highlights follow.

pplicants must be an AHLC member for a minimum of two consecutive years before applying for Master’s Certification.

• Valid for five years • Certificate for framing and display • Personalized, etched crystal Master’s Award • Personalized lab coat Application fee: $25.00 Initial Certification: $350 Renewal: $300 Earn 230 points from the following categories: 70 Education 120 AHLC activity 40 Professional work experience

For program details contact info@ahlc.org or call Susan Kettering 412-765-3666.

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Please Welcome our New and Renewed Members: To become a member or renew contact Betty Ann Bugden, Membership Director, 570-462-1101 or log on to www.AHLC.org. Hair Loss Control Clinic, Latham, NY InsureBeauty, Salinas, CA Specializing in beauty industry insurance and is proud to represent the country’s top insurance companies. With 38 years of experience we offer a wide variety of coverages from General and Professional Liability to Loss of Income and Cyber Liability at competitive prices. International Hairgoods, Minneapolis, MN Since 1968, IHI has been a manufacturer and supplier to professionals in the hair replacement industry. We continually strive to offer you, the professional, the highest quality and newest solutions in hair replacement. Lexington International, LLC, Boca Raton, FL Lexington International is a manufacturer and developer of the HairMax LaserComb®, the first and only laser therapy device with FDA Clearance for the treatment of hair loss and promotion of hair growth in men and women.The company also offers a line of cutting edge hair care products and vitamins specially formulated to enhance the benefits of HairMax and to promote healthier and stronger hair.

Frank Duve Vadim Ltd., Arlington, VA Our method of hair loss restoration is based on technology that was not even available a few years ago. Eric and Jeletta Johnson Hair Institute Inc., Lexington, KY Established in 1996 to provide the latest, most advanced hair restoration options. Our staff recognizes the importance of client confidentiality and strives to provide a relaxed, comfortable environment to all clients. We serve clients all across the country. Dr. David H. Kingsley, Ph.D. British Science Corporation, Staten Island, NY An internationally recognized company dedicated to the research and treatment of all types of hair loss conditions, including female hair loss, male pattern hair loss, alopecia areata, trichotillomania, traction alopecia, and associated scalp conditions. Dr. Thomas Kohn, Dermasurgeon CTC Hair Transplant Clinic, Montreal. Our clinic services the city’s needs in hair transplantation. We take exceptional pride in the state of the art techniques to provide our patients with the highest quality of service and natural results.

LeeAnn Callahan The Wig Lady, Wichita, KS LeeAnn has been a hair dresser for thirty years. She also worked for Matrix for several years traveling the country teaching hair color and conducting seminars

Agnes Perellie HairBuilders of Burlington, Williston, VT Servicing men and women with hair loss or thinning hair. Agnes has been in the hair replacement field for 29 years and an educator for 22.

Vernon Cole Hair Restoration Institute, Bloomington MN Bringing together more than 75 years of combined experience in hair restoration procedures among doctors, consultants, technicians, and clinic coordinators.

Carmine Piscreta Mr. Carmine International Hair Salon, Yonkers, NY A leader in providing the most advanced and effective treatments to make hair look beautiful and natural.

Jerry Casper Jerry Casper Hair Design, Lincolnwood, IL The latest techniques and innovations in hair replacement combined with experience and old world craftsmanship. Family owned and operated since 1965.

Bobbi Russell Hair Therapy for Women, Tampa FL She has an extensive educational background of the hair color, hair extension, and hair replacement industry. Bobbi has over 23 years’ experience in the hair industry and has been a platform artist and national educator for over 18 years.

26 The Link Winter 2012

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Member Spotlight: Marti Salvi by: Janine Thornhill

arty Salvi, owner of Hair Resource Center in Leominster, Massachusetts, started his career as a third generation barber. He was trained in Boston and New York by many of the innovators in the hair business. His father, Lee, was a great teacher and encouraged him to expand his business which included adding services for the hair loss client. Many AHLC members were the first to introduce him to the education and ethics that helped him to become successful in an industry that is personally rewarding and challenging. He is a past member of the local board of directors of the American Cancer Society and has been a volunteer for the Look Good…Feel Better® program, coordinator for Making Strides and Relay for Life in his community.

professionals as well as meet manufacturers and distributors that can provide me with material, education and advice on new technologies.

AHLC: Which Conference was your

favorite and why? Marti: That’s hard to say because I have enjoyed each one. Of course, the first conference stands out. I was excited about learning something new, meeting new people, and trying to figure out which direction to take. But every single one has provided fun, excitement, new education and advice that I have used and has benefited my business.

AHLC: Tell us about your speciality. Marti: My specialty is to provide nonsurgical grafts and hair protheses to men, woman and children with hair loss. However, I would say my real asset lies with my personal service and empathy for the client.

AHLC: When you say personal service

and empathy, what do you mean exactly? Marti: I take the time to listen. I ask questions about their needs, financial limitations, how long they need hair, etc. If you understand the customers’ needs and provide them with the best solutions for their specific hair problem, you have a client and friend forever.

AHLC: How do you benefit by being a member of the AHLC?

Marti: I attend each annual conference. Your magazine has many informative articles and news about the industry. I really enjoyed the first issue. Both the conference and magazine give me the chance to network with other hair loss

Donna Salvi Greene

Marti Salvi

AHLC: Pretend you’re trying to con-

vince me to join the AHLC. What would you say and why? Marti: Do yourself a favor, attend the conference each year. Take advantage of the marketing classes, they teach you how to grow your business. Meet people. Network. Learn about the different manufacturers and what each has to offer. Thanks to the AHLC conferences, we have developed many professional relationships. We share information about products, manufacturing resources, and bounce ideas off each other. If we have a problem we depend on each other for input. The benefits

you get from attending conferences and information in the magazine makes the membership fee worth every penny.

AHLC: How could the AHLC help you more in your business?

Marti: I would like to see the AHLC continue to get more media coverage. The AHLC is our representative to the public. We want everyone to know the positive aspects of our industry and how we help people regain their confidence and feel great about themselves.

AHLC: Talk about the speciality of each

of your co-workers and how they contribute to your business. Marti: Along with my sister, Donna Salvi Greene, we have four beauty consultants and four barbers. This helps us offer a wide range of salon services to our hair replacement customers. Donna works primarily with medical hair loss clients and Kevin specializes in servicing ethnic clients. All of us work with wigs, make up and skin problems. The best thing about this business is being able to put a smile on someone’s face, especially that of a child’s.

AHLC: What is your biggest challenge? Marti: Basically the high cost of everything; overhead, products, supplies and the cost of getting a new customer. I do have to say that a good distributor has helped me lower some of my costs of goods. They offer excellent marketing and advertising materials .

AHLC: Any other advice? Marti: Anyone starting out, or even if they have been in business a long time, should join and get involved in a trade organization such as the AHLC. Stay with a trusted manufacturer that can offer a quality product, education, and marketing information. Most of all, keep motivated. The Link Winter 2012 27

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

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Is Your Booth Renter Really an Employee? by: Jeff Pulford

elow we define the four types of workers in the beauty industry. Of course, the biggest topic of conversation is the booth renter. Understanding this information is critical. Local, state and federal governments firmly believe 95 percent of booth renters are actually employees. They feel this is easy to prove and they will be able to squeeze a sizable amount of taxes and fees from the 150,000 salons hiring booth renters and collect additional taxes from independent workers. These are not new rules, but they are going to start being enforced with penalties. Please read on.

Owner/Operator This person can be a one-person shop or the owner of a multiple-station salon. They are solely responsible for all their beauty services and activities. They carry their own professional and general liability, comply with any lease requirements but are not eligible for workers compensation insurance as they are not an employee. They are eligible for any state-run disability programs and must file income tax returns disclosing business income and expenses.

Employee An employee works for, is paid by and is the responsibility of the salon owner. Local, state and federal human resource laws and regulations demand many controls and mandates of the employer. The salon is responsible for offering general and professional liability insurance as well as worker’s compensation for all employees. While payroll taxes (social security and Medicare), are shared, employer pays 50 percent, the employee pays 50 percent, the salon owner is responsible for paying the IRS. Employees must carry their own beauty license, conform to the state and federal laws and regulations

governing beauty services but the salon owner is ultimately responsible for the employee’s work.

Booth Renter This is a legal term, offered by the IRS and unique to the beauty industry. The term identifies a properly licensed beauty worker, operating under an executed contract with an establishment, the right to provide services within a salon but not as an employee. The responsibilities and obligations of the booth renter and the salon are spelled out in the agreement, including fees or rent charged for the use of shared facilities, equipment and other resources provided by the the owner. Salons usually provide general liability and property insurance while the booth renter is asked to provide their own professional liability. Many salons may even provide the professional liability. Booth renters follow SOME of the rules which define an independent contractor but RARELY do they qualify as an independent business. This leads to confusion and opens the door for many expensive problems. The IRS guidelines, which have been loosely interpreted, seemed poised for a change, especially as they want to collect payroll taxes. The IRS, now determined to receive these funds, consider booth renters as “frequent non-filers” (do not file tax returns and pay the self-employment tax) and can put pressure on salons to properly classify workers. Workers compensation insurance is federally mandated and administered by the states. Salon owners do not want to pay the annual premium of about $300 per booth renter. They believe that since the booth renter pays them “rent,” there is no worker compensation exposure. However, without following the strict rules demanded to qualify workers as independent contractors,

the salon owner find that they are liable and also guilty of enabling “misclassified employees”. Whether a person is called a booth renter or an independent contractor is irrelevant. The IRS and the worker’s compensation system demands a worker be either an employee or a true business owner (an independent contractor).

Independent Contractor An independent contractor operates as a stand-alone business, usually under a fictitious name, (Ashley Temple, DBA: Ashley’s Temple of Hair). This contractor/business receives and posts its own state licenses and municipal business permits to distinguish itself from the establishment in which the contractor operates. Independent contractors must carry their own general and professional liability insurance and name the salon as an additional insured. They must be responsible for their own tools, equipment and supplies. The salon’s workers compensation policy cannot cover independent contractors for work related injury as there is no employer/ employee relationship. A stand-alone business person must be responsible for themselves and procure their own disability and medical insurance. The independent contractor enters into a contract with the establishment which outlines duties, responsibilities and obligations for each party. This needs to be reviewed carefully prior to signing as a salon CAN make many demands of the independent contractors (booth renters) they allow to work on their premises. An independent contractor must maintain their own bookkeeping system, payments (credit cards), accounting and janitorial services. However, if these services are specifically contracted with the salon and a specific, fee is charged for each item, it is possible to have the salon accept responsibility for them. A contractor advertises their own business. An accurate income tax return must be filed showing business income and expenses. Self-employment taxes must be paid. In reality you can only be an independent contractor or an employee, it must be one way or the other. The Link Winter 2012 29

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

W E N r u o F s e Introduc s g i W ’s n e r d Chil

re‑teen For children, p lts u and young ad

Gemtress understands that hair loss is not limited only to adults. Gemtress addresses the sensitive subject of children’s medical hair loss with the introduction of four NEW children’s wigs available in Human hair, European Human hair as well as Syntress Synthetic fibers. Our four designs accommodate petite heads of 19” circumference and are ideal for children, pre-teens and young adults who suffer hair loss. All four are available in three vibrant colors 3, 6 and 8 (Children’s color ring #67) and are specifically blended to achieve a youthful and natural flowing look and styles that will satisfy your young client’s needs.

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30 The Link Winter 2012

12/13/11 4:16 PM

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Handheld Lasers

by: Randy Veliky,

How did low level laser treatment (LLLT) for hair loss begin? In 1964, professor Andre Mester of Budapest conducted experiments using laser light on laboratory mice. To his surprise, he found that these lasers increased blood circulation and stimulated hair growth. The hair located in the area of the laser treatment grew thicker and longer.

Explain the science behind LLLT. Light is energy and lasers deliver this safe, effective light energy into the scalp. The light energy is then absorbed by the cells in each hair follicle where it is converted into cellular energy. This light energy also increases blood flow and circulation. Blood flow is crucial to promoting healthy hair follicles delivering important nutrients, while taking away harmful waste products such as DHT. LLLT provides the needed cellular energy to transform a weakened follicle into one which is healthy and capable of producing beautiful, thick healthy hair. The healthier follicle extends the growth phase of the hair and helps to reverse the thinning process. It is kind of like photosynthesis where a plant uses sun light energy and converts it into cellular energy.

What makes a laser that removes hair different than one that promotes hair growth? Lasers for hair removal are very high, powerful lasers. They provide so much light energy that they actually heat the skin to extreme temperatures and burn the hair follicle, which is painful. Therefore, providing too much laser energy is harmful to hair growth as with hair removal lasers. Many manufacturers of laser devices for hair growth try to sell you on the fact that more lasers are better. Obviously, this is not true. Lasers for hair growth are low-power lasers

that provide therapeutic light energy to stimulate the skin and hair follicle. A proper balance of energy, wavelength and density is required to properly stimulate hair growth. There is no heat or pain with lasers for hair growth.

Who is an ideal candidate for LLLT? Generally any man or woman with mild-to-moderate pattern baldness or hereditary hair loss are great candidates. This includes women who have thinning hair due hormonal changes, menopause or child birth. People who are completely bald on the top of their head are not a candidates. LLLT is ideal for those looking for a more natural treatment option with no side effects, no messy topicals and no drugs to ingest.

More clinics, salons and doctors around the world are using LLLT to treat hair loss. What results can my clientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s realistically achieve? Those who use a clinically proven LLLT device will usually begin to see results within 12-16 weeks. Typically, clients can expect the following; new hair growth, stabilization of hair loss, and existing hair growing thicker, faster, healthier and more manageable. By properly setting expectations, your clients can achieve a very high level of satisfaction.

There has been trend towards home-use devices for many conditions, including hair loss. Why? Due to our busy schedules, many clients find it very difficult to set aside two to three hours per week to go to a salon for laser treatments. LLLT for hair loss requires an average of two to three visits a week for approximately six months. This is usually followed by weekly maintenance visits for the rest of your life, costing thousands of dollars. In contrast, a home-use device is

used three times a week in the comfort and convenience of your own home, on your time schedule. Many salons start their clients with an office-based treatment and then supplement with a home-use product.

What should salon owners look for when considering laser hair growth devices? There are only two devices that have been clinically tested and cleared by the FDA to treat hair loss and promote hair growth, the HairMax Laser Comb from Lexington International and the MEP 90 from Midwest RF. There are other devices being sold that are illegally representing themselves as laser hair growth devices and claiming to be the same as the FDA cleared devices. The FDA is cracking down on these companies and forcing them to comply with FDA laws. When deciding to sell a laser hair loss treatment, demand to see clinical studies and FDA compliance. Your clients depend on your expertise, professionalism and confidence in the products you offer. An FDA clearance assures that the device is proven safe and effective and adheres to the highest standards of quality.

If a salon currently offers in-office laser treatment, how can home-use devices help my clients and my business? Adding a home-use device can be valuable to your business model and provide improved benefits to your clients. How many times do your clients miss or reschedule their in-office treatments? Adding the option of a homeuse device can provide the flexibility to meet your clientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s busy schedule. If they need to reschedule a visit, they can maintain their treatment regimen at home and come to the salon for their next scheduled visit. In addition, homeuse devices can be taken on vacations or business trips. As all hair loss treatments require continued use to maintain results, home use devices can be a key component of a treatment regimen designed to keep their hair looking great. So, not only do home-use devices provide your clients quality treatment, but your business can benefit from a valuable new profit center. The Link Winter 2012â&#x20AC;&#x192; 31

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

AHLC Academy Class Listings:

Your resource for continuing education and accumulating points towards our Master’s Certification. Discounts on class fees may be available to AHLC members. Ask when registering for classes.

Club W | Biolon Road Show Class size is limited. Don’t miss out and register now at 1-800-359-4247 One day Club W | Biolon Certification Class in a city near you! Taught by industry veteran Ricky Knowles, this class has the potential to take your business to new heights in 2012.

We offer the following: Four-Day Men’s and Women’s Hair Replacement plus One-Day Medical Three-Day Men’s and Women’s Hair Replacement One-day Medical Class One-day Ultratress Class Choose which is right for you and your staff.

Mar 25, New Image Labs Headquarters 5827 Corporate Way West Palm Beach, FL 33407

April 23 One Day, Hands-On Ultratress Extension Training Class: All Three Application Methods

Apr 29, Holiday Inn Newark Airport 450 US Route 1 & 9 South Newark, NJ 07114 May 6, Holiday Inn Express 6500 South Cicero Ave Chicago, IL, 60638 Complimentary parking On Rite Gemtress Women’s Medical Hair Loss One Day Certification Classes Call 800-327-5555 to register ATLANTA, February 19 ORLANDO, March 10 Hotel: Caribe Royal TEXAS, April 23 Women’s Hair Replacement Two Day Certification Classes TEXAS, April 22 – 23 Sunday & Monday LOS ANGELES, May 6 – 7 On Rite Annual Conference March 4-6 Hilton Miami/Downtown, Hotel in Miami, Florida. *Take advantage of our Post-Conference one Day, hands-on Medical Hair Loss Certification Class, March 7th at the Hilton Miami/Downtown Hotel On Rite Hair Academy 5130 North State Road 7 Fort Lauderdale, Florida www.hairacademyonline.com 800-327-5555 www.hairacademyonline.com 32 The Link Winter 2012

April 28–May 1 Four-day OnRite/Gemtress Hair Replacement Class plus One‑day Hands-On Medical Hair Loss Certification Class April 28–April 30 Three-Day OnRite/Gemtress Hair Replacement Class May 1 One-day, Hands-On Medical Hair Loss Certification Class May 19-22 Four-day OnRite/Gemtress Hair Replacement Class plus One‑day Hands-On Medical Hair Loss Certification Class May 19 -21 Three-Day OnRite/Gemtress Hair Replacement Class May 22 One-day, Hands-On Medical Hair Loss Certification Class IHI SOLUTIONS SEMINAR – FREE Seminar IHI Development Center Minneapolis, MN Contact IHI at 1-800-328-6182 www.InternationalHairgoods.com April 2 INSTRUCTOR: Darla Smith, IHI Technical Director GUEST INSTRUCTOR: Pat Julkowski, Owner & Technician; Creative Hair Solutions in Pittsburgh, PA Learn about the latest hair solutions, attachments and hair products available from International Hairgoods. Hear how a medical professional

utilizes these products with her medical hair loss clients in the consultations from selecting the proper system, size, color, accessories and hair care needed. GENERAL CUSTOM ORDERING – FREE Seminar IHI Development Center Minneapolis, MN 800-328-6182 www.InternationalHairgoods.com May 7 May 8 (Optional) INSTRUCTORS: Darla Smith, IHI Technical Director and Michelle Schumm, IHI Educator May 7: Get certified as a Custom Designer! Receive training for color analysis, base material coordination, design objectives, fiber analysis (human and synthetic) and custom ordering techniques. May 8: Hands On! Get the best fit for your clients. Create a tape mold and a mold using the IHI Molding System. CYBERHAIR BOOT CAMP – FREE Seminar IHI Development Center Minneapolis, MN 800-328-6182 www.InternationalHairgoods.com June 4 June 5 (Optional) INSTRUCTORS: Darla Smith, IHI Technical Director, Kris Krienke, IHI Technical Supervisor and Michelle Schumm, IHI Educator June 4: This will be an extensive day of training reviewing all available Cyberhair base models, custom ordering options, color effects and much more. June 5: Hands On! Cutting and styling Cyberhair for men and women. Must be a Certified Cyberhair or Private Issue technician, designer or consultant.

ahlc.org

8 with Alopecia Clients

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Strategies for Success

by: Thea D. Chassin, founder and president of the nonprofit organization Bald Girls Do Lunch® Ms. Chassin has had alopecia universalis since 1997

hen I talk about women with alopecia areata and having had alopecia universalis myself since 1997, I literally have a world of experience to back it up. Since founding the non-profit (501c3) Bald Girls Do Lunch in 2007, I have personally connected via emails, letters, chats, live events and phone calls with over two thousand women diagnosed with alopecia areata. That is in addition to countless online visitors following my beauty tips, research updates and tweets. Based on my unique perspective, here are eight tips on how to better serve those with a new alopecia areata diagnosis.

Build Trust

Women are encouraged to do some homework before shopping. Expect phone calls. If you are busy, set aside time to call back when you are not distracted. Be realistic and honest. Be familiar with other hair replacement centers in your region and if needed refer the caller to them. Encourage new clients to visit your salon and get acquainted with you and your products without the expectation of buying anything. Focus your initial consultation on education and relationship building.

Educate From the Inside Out

Sit and Stand Together

Yes, literally. Standing behind a seated client talking over her head toward a mirror may be customary for many studio owners, but it is often disorienting for the new client. Get to know your new client by sitting or standing faceto-face. Build better rapport by facing her at a comfortable, social distance and at the same eye level. She will be more receptive to whatever you are explaining if she is engaged with you in a normal, conversational way.

The “C” Words

When women with alopecia areata are polled (including those with long This means taking the different caps standing alopecia) one of their universal you offer, turning them inside out and Realize That It’s More Than Hair going over the parts of each side by side. concerns is the assumption that they are a cancer or chemotherapy patient. Buying new hair to feel whole and norThe “nuts and bolts” of wig construc“You should be happy you’re not sick, it’s mal again is just one of the many chaltion may seem like the least glamorous only hair” is inappropriate and fails to lenges for the newly diagnosed alopecia part of the product. However, for the recognize the loss she is experiencing. areata client. Not only is she confronted woman with alopecia areata, it is as with appearance changes, the onset may important as the visible hair. Know your Women with alopecia areata may not grow hair normally, but that does not be rapid and the course unpredictable. products well. Know the materials and mean they understand anything about She may not yet have told other people knotting techniques used in your wigs nor want to hear about someone you about her condition and worries about and be ready to explain the pros and know with cancer. Consider the topic off how they will respond when she does. cons, price points and trade-offs. When For those with a sudden onset, there the comparisons are clear, the buyer can limits. is much to learn in a short period of make informed choices and clarify her Adapt Your Technique time. For those with a slower hair loss, priorities. We know that visual, auditory and months or years of secrecy and embarUnderstand Sensory Overload tactile learning styles vary from person rassment can take a toll. to person. Be flexible when teaching When putting on hair, the client is Minimize Distractions your client. Provide written, spoken and bombarded with new sensations. Not hands-on instructions to ensure the Although it’s just another “day at the only is there the visual shock of seeing best fit between what you’re saying and office” for you, the alopecia areata client herself looking so differently, there are may feel overwhelmed and as if she new physical sensations of having some- how she understands. has arrived in a foreign land where she thing on her head. Immediately telling does not speak the language. While a her how pretty she looks and asking, Bald Girls Do Lunch welcomes your welcoming ambiance is always good for “So how do you like it?” is often asking partnership in educating and supportbusiness, some things that may seem too much too soon. The more she feels ing women with alopecia areata. To join to be inviting may actually make it difcompelled to answer questions, the less our mailing list, participate in our first ficult for her to feel at ease. Loud music, she is able to focus on how the whole hair provider survey or get involved, overly chatty staff, cell phone ringers, experience is going. Encourage her to sit, visit www.baldgirlsdolunch.org or call televisions and radios can easily become stand, or walk around the shop on her 800-578-5332. annoying, added stressors. own to adjust to the new sensations. The Link Winter 2012 33

ADVERTISMENT

Ask The Hair Loss Expert!

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Tips from the “Trichsters” by: Jennifer Raikes, a recovered hair puller and executive director of The Trichotillomania Leaning Center (TLC) Servicing people with Trichotillomania

don’t have to tell you just how bad a “bad hair day” can feel. Whatever we can do to look and feel good on the road to recovery can be truly life changing. Yet, many people who suffer with Trichotillomania (TTM or trich) do not seek your services because they are too embarrassed to discuss their problem. Shame is common in people with many forms of hair loss, but it is particularly acute among people with TMM. This disorder is not well known. And to many, it sounds crazy!

Whether they discuss it with you or not, many of your clients suffer with TMM. It is a disorder that causes people to pull out the hair from their scalp, eyelashes, eyebrows, or any other part of the body, resulting in bald patches or even total baldness. TTM affects about 3 percent of the population, or about 1 in 50 people and often starts in childhood. Though there are effective treatments, hair pulling is often difficult to overcome and many do not have access to appropriate therapy. I grew up with TMM myself. I didn’t pull the hair on my head, only my lashes and eyebrows. Even so, as a girl I was

terribly anxious every time I had to get a haircut. My long bangs were my camouflage, hiding my brows and eyes. Having my hair washed was the worst. Seldom did anyone get that close to my face. As my hair was being washed my bangs were swept back as the stylist leaned in close, practically breathing on my bare forehead and naked eyelids. The thick brow pencil and eyeliner I used as a second layer of defense would get soapy and smeared. I couldn’t imagine what she thought of me. And just how short was she going to cut my bangs? I needed them! Working with thousands of people with TMM over the last fifteen years, I have heard countless stories of hair salon nightmares. It is quite common for a surprised cosmetologist to call her colleagues over to look at a bald spot, while her client shrinks into the chair, mortified. Even well-intentioned stylists often chastise, “you really should stop pulling!” Conversely, I have also witnessed the intense love and loyalty that develops between someone who suffers from TMM and a stylist/hair replacement

Number One Tip: ”BUILD TRUST and, of course, make us feel BEAUTIFUL.” Help Us to Relax: “Turn the client around during the consultation so

specialist who is truly sensitive and helpful. When I was a young woman living in New York City, I was lucky to find a talented stylist who was caring and offered privacy to her TMM clients. I was running a weekly support group at the time. Just by word-of-mouth, she was soon flooded with TMM clients. She became the “trich” stylist of Manhattan. Although I haven’t seen her since I moved from New York City, I will always be grateful for the help she gave me and others who had no place to turn. Now, TLC offers referrals to “trichfriendly” service providers, one of our most requested services. We “trichsters” want help so we can look good as we tackle this frustrating disorder. I conducted a poll of the thousands of TLC members and Facebook fans. I asked, “What are the most helpful and least helpful things a hair stylist or hair replacement specialist can do for you?” The vast majority of respondents reported that compassion, experience, skill and privacy are the most important qualities they seek. Here are some suggestions from the “trichsters” themselves, in their own words.

Be Creative:

“Depending on how much hair they have, style their hair so either it covers the short patches, OR use the short patches to your advantage to make something cool. “

they are not staring in the mirror stressing about the bald spots while having the discussion.”

Help Educate Us: “Offer literature or something that tells about TMM.”

Be Sensitive: “Definately be sensitive and act like it is no big deal. Offer

Build Trust: “My daughter is 13. I talked to her stytlist AHEAD of my

some privacy during consultations if requested.”

price of the treatment.”

daughter’s appointment. She was very compassionate and said she would do whatever made my daughter more comfortable. The biggest thing for us is TRUST. No matter how my daughter has pulled, her stylist has always found a way to cut or style her hair in a way that leaves Emily feeling beautiful.”

Be Informed: “I think that just knowing that the stylist is already aware of

Don’t Say:

Be Flexible: “Give us a list of solutions based on severity of hair loss and

what TMM is can be helpful. Makes for a much smoother conversation.”

“You should stop pulling your hair out. You’re getting bald spots.’” If it were that easy, I would have already.” The Link Winter 2012 35

AHLC EXCLUSIVE by: Terrell & Janine Thornhill

All lasers used to treat hair loss are classified by the FDA as “medical devices.” Lasers used on the scalp are classified by the FDA as “medical devices” because of how they work (see page 31).

sk ten “experts” about the legality of low level laser therapy (LLLT) on the scalp and you will get ten different, even contradicting answers. It is here that we start hearing discussions about how marketing claims are worded and whether or not we can advertise “fuller hair” or “fuller LOOKING hair” with LLLT. Analogies such as “looking and sounding like a duck” and defining the meaning of “is” get tossed around and adults start acting like children caught with one hand in the cookie jar. Of course, our goal is never to offend, but to educate. So try and avoid the urge to shoot the messengers. Here is the bottom line. If you are providing LLLT you may be at risk of losing large amounts of income and investments. It is good to approach the writing of any article with a clean slate and an open mind. Open, but with a healthy dose of skepticism. Generally we do our research, ask the right questions of the appropriate authorities and print what they say. This article was no exception… at the beginning.

We did our research, checked and rechecked our facts, spent over 5 hours on the phone with FDA compliance officers and kept asking the same question: What’s with the label, “FDA Cleared” regarding LLLT devices? It is highly 36 The Link Winter 2012

evident that there is a tremendous amount of confusion in the industry regarding this issue. As the AHLC, an association that is unbiased, while educating and informing its members, it is our duty to inform our industry of the truth. And by “the truth,” we mean according to current Food and Drug Administration (FDA), Federal Trade Commission (FTC), and state and local laws.

There is no such thing as a cosmetic laser for the treatment of hair loss. FDA Compliance Officer Within this discussion there is as much misinformation floating around as fact. We shall focus entirely on the latter.

All medical devices in the US are regulated by the FDA.

Everything from band aids (which are unlikely to cause serious consequences if they fail) to artificial hearts are regulated. Before any drug or medical device is manufactured, imported into or sold in the US, it must be cleared or approved by the FDA. Drugs and highrisk devices require “approval.” Low risk devices like lasers for the scalp require “clearance.”

We have summed up how the Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act (FD&C Act) (1)* defines a medical device: “… an instrument, apparatus, implement, machine,…intended for use in the cure, mitigation, treatment, or prevention of disease or intended to affect the structure or any function of the body, and which does not achieve its primary intended purposes through chemical action within or on the body and is not dependent upon being metabolized for the achievement of its primary intended purposes.” (2)* A laser for LLLT is an instrument intended to affect a function of the body (hair growth, regrowth, to slow or retard shedding, etc.) and rightfully falls under the medical device category. When you sell or provide service with a laser on the scalp, according to the FDA, you are selling/using a medical device, regardless if it has been cleared or not. (3)* Simply put by FDA compliance officers, “The treatment of hair loss is not a cosmetic procedure... and, there is no such thing as a ‘cosmetic laser’ for the treatment of hair loss.”

Based on FDA regulations, each state enforces these laws very differently. The FDA is the primary agency responsible for the classification of medical devices in the US. Individual states are not permitted to reclassify medical devices, but are required to use

The Link The Voice of the AHLC various state agencies to enforce FDA regulations. Exactly how these laws are enforced vary greatlty from state-t0-state. We contacted a few states regarding their policies. One state only allows medically supervised aestheticians to administer LLLT in the salon. Another only allows medical doctors, physician assistants or nurse practitioners to administer the treatments. The representative from this state further stressed that a cosmetologist or aesthetian administering LLLT would then be operating without a medical license.

If you are a hair replacement specialist using LLLT in your busness, we urge you to check with your state board of cosmetology and state department of health for the particular laws that apply to you. As you can imagine, your advertising must also be in compliance with your state and FDA regulations. Since the FDA classifies LLLT as a medical device by legal definition marketing and compliance would fall under those regulations. Again, we urge each hair replacement specialist offering LLLT in their salon to do their own research for their own understanding and peace of mind. Offering FDA cleared devices and services in your salon or practice is the only way to be assured that you will never run afoul of the FDA or the FTC. Hair replacement specialists using only FDA cleared devices can legally make medical claims such as hair growth, regrowth, slowing or retardation of shedding and use before-and-after pictures indicating any of the above results. The efficacy of LLLT is not in question. Lasers DO work and they have been shown to do so in the most stringent clinical trials (see page 31).

http://www.accessdata.fda.gov/scripts/cdrh/ cfdocs/cfPMN/TextResults.cfm?q=OAP

How and why current regulations are what they are today may be an issue to some. However, being aware of and complying with these regulations allow anyone offering LLLT to proceed, no caution necessary.

*Sources & Resources (1) Food, Drug and Safety Act: http://www.fda.gov/RegulatoryInformation/ Legislation/default.htm If you are a physician, the FDA tells us that you are allowed to use whatever device you see fit, in your own practice, on your own patients, FDA cleared or not. You took the oath. Your patients are under your care. How you choose to treat them is up to you. It is up to each physician whether they want to offer devices not cleared by the FDA.

(2)The complete definition of a medical device: http://www.fda.gov/Cosmetics/GuidanceCom plianceRegulatoryInformation/ComplianceEn forcement/WarningLetters/ucm081141.htm (3) Is This Product a Medical Device? http://www.fda.gov/medicaldevices/device regulationandguidance/overview/classifyyour device/ucm051512.htm

1920 EAST OAKLAND PARK BLVD FORT LAUDERDALE, FL 33308 866-681-HAIR (4247 EUROPEANHAIRIMPORTS.COM

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The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Sheryl Shoots From the Hip

Straight Talk about the Business by: Sheryl McCaleb

was asked by the AHLC to touch on what I think would help people who want to get into this business. Not only is the following important to new business owners, it is also beneficial to those of us who have been in this industry for years. For today’s market and savvy clients the most important aspects that come to mind are integrity, professionalism and leadership.

Can you stand by your word or do you blame others? The truth sometimes hurts, but it is a must in the business world. Clients know when you are lying. They see and pick up on more than you think. Do you conduct yourself as a professional? Are you genuine when working with the public? Would you want to go to a replacement center that is dirty and unkempt, where foul language is used and have a stylist that has cigarette breath? I am sure you would say no, so why not take a step back and examine objectively what your clients see? We have had women who have been to another place in Nashville who actually caters to men and when starting to get a magazine they had to shuffle through Penthouse and Playboy. Please don’t do this. Are your restrooms clean? Is your coffee so stale it smells like it was brewed last week? What do they see when they enter your door? Who do they see when they see you? You may be asking what this has to do with helping someone get started but this is important and helps build credibility which is extremely important. It is very difficult to start a business but if you are organized and have good work ethics you could be well on your way. It is hard to run the business, lead your staff, and wear the many hats of a business owner. If you cannot multi-task, this may not the right business for you. While my business consists of 11 fulltime and 3 part-time staff members, I 38 The Link Winter 2012

often feel there is not enough of Sheryl to go around.

come. All of this helps build trust, trust helps build business.

I think the female client needs a very compassionate, strong leader as a consultant to help them make the necessary decisions. Remember, when women come to our businesses most often they have researched online, visited physicians and are somewhat educated about the type hair loss they have. They want an educated consultant and one that can guide them in making the correct decisions. Often women are out of control emotionally, so the consultant should be in control at all

We often get so busy working in our business that we fail to work on our business. Good leadership flows throughout your business in many ways such as teaching your staff about new techniques, product knowledge, bringing in educators, attending seminars. I am bad about this. I had to step out from behind the chair in order to better manage and lead, forcing myself into an area that is actually more difficult for most cosmetologists and barbers. Over the years I had to work diligently to better educate myself in the areas of running a business. ?Make this a reading list, side bar or pull quote This meant reading many books like “The E-Myth,” “Who Moved My Cheese,” “Good to Great,” “Gorilla Marketing” and the list goes on. When people would ask what type books I like, all I could say was, “Business books, who has time for fiction?”

One of the great benefits of being a member of the ALHC is that we help each other. times. By this I mean, leading the client into a well educated, informed decision as to what the best solution is for her. Do not try to sell her the bank. Sell only what is best for her situation, you will build trust and respect plus you will sleep better at night. Remember, she is getting to know you and if you are strong on selling her the most expensive hair you have when she can only afford a synthetic wig then do what is best for her situation and accommodate her. She will happily tell others and later will probably return and buy the more expensive hair. I have given wigs and hair additions to people who could not afford it. They were so excited and appreciative that they told many of their friends and sent us other great clients. Your acts of kindness will come back to you in many ways for years to

The Chamber of Commerce is a wonderful resource for inexpensive, educational classes. I took classes in small groups with people just starting a business so I felt very comfortable. I attended as many as I could. The education was invaluable and taught by people who started from the ground up, like most of us. After you have set up your business, select your stylists. Hiring young girls rarely works for they do not always have strong work ethics unlike many baby boomers. They are not all like that but it has been my experience that I am better off with middle-aged stylists. They don’t party as much and they get out of bed on time! Dress codes have certainly changed. Am I old-fashioned or do I just expect too much? If I want to be a

The Link The Voice of the AHLC professional, I have to look like one as well. No matter how great a stylist is, if they are not good at showing empathy and look like a slob, they will not be as successful in retaining clients. Some very important aspects in hiring are trust, compassion, and creative ability. More experienced stylists know a variety of styles so you can accommodate most of your clients. In my 41 years of doing hair I have learned many different techniques and styles which are valuable to other stylists and my clients. Many young stylists do not have a clue as to how to make a French Twist, back comb, use a round brush or look like a professional by way of dress or hairstyle. I have also learned that in order to get respect I have to be respectful to others. If you find a potential employee that can do a variety of styles and is respectful to others, then you need to hire her. I have a variety of stylists, one who does very full styles, one who likes flat and straight, one who excels in curls, etc. A large percentage of clients go to a stylist because they like them and have rapport with them not because they are better than the stylist down the street. The women’s hair replacement business is both rewarding and draining. While it can be difficult to show compassion to emotionally distressed women, be strong and confident. Would you want your physician only tell you want to hear as opposed to what you need to hear? Put yourself in their position. Why would a client want a stylist who is not upfront, honest and a trustworthy advisor. Remember it is not always what you say, but how you say it. They pay us a lot of money and deserve respect, appreciation, honesty and professionalism. Start out slowly and do not overextend your finances with high overhead. Extremely high overhead can often set you up for failure. When I started out I bought quality, used fixtures and equipment and replaced them as it became affordable. After all these years I still use some of those

original purchases. Many salons go to the extreme with decorating and flash, but the savvy client knows someone has to pay for it and they know it’s them. Many people feel extreme decorating is too elaborate for their comfort level or they assume your prices are too expensive. Make your studio look professional but not overdone. A good computer and telephone system is a must. I highly recommend getting a program that tracks your appointments, reports, vendor information, client notes and client orders. The program we use is Korvue®. It works well and saves us lots of money. No program is perfect, but I could not have succeeded without it. I am working with Thea Chassain, founder of Bald Girls Do Lunch, an organization for women with alopecia. She needed a list of names of our clients with alopecia. Within minutes I had our complete list, including email addresses, so we could notify those clients about our upcoming event. She was amazed and said that very few organizations she works with have this ability. A quality software program is a much better investment than expensive decorating. Invest where it counts most. Your web site will be an extremely important tool for your business so plan it carefully. It is a real headache to build a web site, but in the end it will pay off if designed correctly. Check others’ web sites to see how they attract leads. Seldom do we get down to the basics such as integrity, professionalism and leadership. The hair industry has made many changes over the years and having integrity is one I hope will never change. My Dad always told me, ”You are only as good as your word.” So be mindful of what you are saying because you are the one who has to stand behind it and live with it. Our clients know, without a doubt, that I will always stand behind what my employees do and say. This is a given in our business. I love helping others and being of great service to thousands of women.

Industry Events March 3–5 On Rite Conference Miami, FL www.onritedirect.com

April 21–23 BVZ Annual Conference Fulda, Germany www.bvz-info.de April 22-24 International Beauty Show New York, NY www.ibsnewyork.com

MAY 19-21 AHLC ANNUAL CONFERENCE Fort Lauderdale, Florida May 20–21 International Hair & Beauty Show Secaucus, NJ www.ihshow.com June 2–4 Premiere Orlando Orlando, FL www.premiereshows.com June 2–4 Premiere Day Spa Orlando, FL www.premiereshows.com July 22–24 Cosmoprof North America Las Vegas, NV Cosmoprofnorthamerica.com November 4–5 Midwest International Salon and Spa Rosemont, IL (Chicago) www.probeauty.org

ahlc.org The Link Winter 2012 39

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

ANASTASIA LONG RH

Pre-cut human hair Available in 13-15 inch Optimal for many creative styles

1920 EAST OAKLAND PARK BLVD • FORT LAUDERDALE, FL 33306

866-681-HAIR (4247) • EUROPEANHAIRIMPORTS.COM 40 The Link Winter 2012

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Anatomy of the Two-Sided Tape by: Joseph Ellis

e use it everyday. We know which works the best on our clients. However, have you ever wondered what the anatomy is of this familiar item. Have you ever wondered what really makes one tape different from another. I am curious by nature which is what led me to research what the difference is between the common tapes we all use so frequently. After some research, I found a lot of similarities but enough difference to allow it to perform differently. First, I recognize that tape falls into three different categories: Daily, Extended and Permanent: Daily Extended Permanent 1-5 days 1-2 weeks 2-6 weeks Red Liner Lace Tape Tape w/ Holes

Brown or German liner is the only The anatomy of tape is fairly simple. one that has a rubber adhesive. HowYou start with a liquid adhesive and a particular material that is called the car- ever, notice all four have a different carriers. rier, the backing of the tape. The carrier is a material that will hold Red Liner Lace Tape Tape w/ Holes Brown Liner the liquid adhesive. Adhesive: Acrylic Acrylic Acrylic Rubber Carrier: Plastic Gauge Polyurethane Cloth Red liner tape has a plastic carrier. A formulation of liquid adhesive is then painted onto the plastic then sent to a hot air dryer. The liquid will evaporate, leaving only the adhesive behind. Below, is a chart showing the most frequently used tapes naming the type of adhesive and carrier for each. For the adhesive in the chart below, you will see that acrylic is the base adhesive for all but one.

One interesting thing about brown/ cloth liners is that the carrier welds together with a hard or soft perimeter bond. For example, take a piece of red liner and a piece of brown/cloth liner, then apply a bead of hard bond to both separately. Allow both to dry for couple of days. The hard bond has welded itself into the brown/cloth liner but the bond sits on top of the red liner. You would be able to pop the bead of hard bond off the red liner because it has a plastic carrier. The cloth carrier in the brown/ cloth liner is not a ﬂat surface so it allows the hard bond to weld into the cloth. I now know why my clients that have an oilier scalp are being able to go a week a two longer when I used the brown/cloth liner. Most of my clientele are women and within those clients I had a group that never could go more than about three weeks without their soft bond separating and coming loose. Summer months were the worse. I tried everything I could think of, experimenting with different procedures to try to get a better hold. Until I used some cloth tape over the red liner and then the soft bond, was I able to get great holding power. I increased client’s hold from maybe three weeks to at least four to five weeks of solid hold. A happy client makes a happy business owner. The Link Winter 2012 41

New Product Spotlight: Jorgen by On Rite

Our New Jorgen, Five-Piece Travel Kit, in TSA approved 2-ounces sizes! Kit contains shampoo, conditioner, leave-on conditioner spray, finishing spray, plus fold-over brush with built-in mirror. All in a reusable, zippered travel bag.

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Club W by New Image

Jorgen is formulated in Europe and carefully prepared using selected ingredients that are balanced to provide optimum performance and keep your male client’s hair grafts clean, moisturized and styled to perfection. Contact your On Rite representative at 800-327-5555 or www.onritedirect.com.

Thin, light, airy: Exclusive to New Image, the revolutionary Club W foundation is guaranteed to provide the utmost in comfort and security to your clients! The foundation is non-slip and totally secure on the client’s head. The outmost edge of the foundation is completely customizable. Soft, one-inch front lace contours the front hair line naturally. The actual hair is applied to the foundation with a singular fine knot, designed to be virtually undetectable. Contact New Image at800-359-4247 or www.newimagelabs.com.

Sentoo Wig Collection by International Hairgoods

HairMax LaserComb by Lexington International

The Sentoo Wig Collection is from Europe and has 7 unique styles specially designed for women with sensitive needs. The Sentoo Collection stands out by featuring these unique characteristics: • LIGHT AS A FEATHER • SOFT GENTLE FEEL • NATURAL APPEARANCE • INVISIBLE HAIR LINE • NATURAL COLOR EFFECTS Distributed in the USA by International Hairgoods Contact IHI at 800-328-6182 or www.sentoowigs.com. 42 The Link Winter 2012

HairMax LaserComb® is the first and only home-use medical device clinically proven to treat hair loss and promote hair growth in men and women*. HairMax LaserComb is used for about 11 minutes three time per week. Visible results in as little as 12 weeks (based on results of clinical studies). Reviewed and proven effective, HairMax has been the subject of countless positive reports worldwide. Hailed in Time magazine as on the of the “Inventions of the Year” and with clinical results published, HairMax is a popular treatment to achieve the fuller and healthier hair you desire. Contact 800-973-4769 or www.hairmax.com. *The HairMax Advanced 7, Lux 9, and the Professional 12 models are indicated to treat Androgenetic Alopecia, and promote hair growth in males who have Norwood Hamilton Classifications of IIa to V and in females who have Ludwig (Savin) I-4, II-1, II-2, or frontal patterns of hair loss and who both have Fitzpatrick Skin Types I to IV.