The Link, Issue 4 by The AHLC

Dermatologist Formulated Natural Hair Loss Solution

RESTORE HAIR WITH AN EASY TOPICAL APPLICATION Recommended by Dermatologists in over 25 Countries!

Special Offer for AHLC Members!

877-512-4247 WWW.REVIVOGEN.COM

Special Offers For AHLC Members!

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

ISSUE 4 • 2012 ON THE COVER: 29 15 16 30

“Goodbye to Baseball Caps” The Check of Approval Howard Margolin Interview Extreme Empathy

Features:

5 7 9 10 18 21 22 34

Congrats Lucinda Beaty NAAF Conference Recap Marketing on a Shoestring Two Stories of Two Friends AHLC 2012 Conference Review Hair Care 101 Jürgen Schillo Interview Extensions, An Emotional Attachment

In Every Issue:

4 12 27 32 33 35

Message from the Board New and Renewed Members Member Spotlight: Lou Verrone Tips & Tricks, Applying Ghost Bond New Product Spotlight AHLC Academy, Class Listings

Subscription Information: Subscriptions to The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council are mailed FREE to members of the AHLC within the continental United States. International members are provided digital copies free. Please contact us for additional shipping rates if you are an AHLC member outside the US and wish to receive a printed edition. Non-member subscription price: $60 anually within the continental United States, $85 International. To become a member, renew your membership, or subscribe to The Link as a non-member, please contact Betty Ann Bugden, Membership Director, 570-462-1101 or log on to www.AHLC.org. Cover Story: Goodbye to Baseball Caps PAGE 29

The Link Issue 4, 2012 3

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

MESSAGE FROM THE AHLC BOARD

Susan Kettering, Executive Director

Recently, I had the opportunity to represent the American Hair Loss Council at the Premier Beauty Show held in Orlando, Florida. Our goal was to search out salon owners who may have interest in the AHLC and want to get involved in the hair replacement industry. As I passed through the crowds of hair stylists handing out The Link to participants, I was proud of our accomplishments and hoped that this publication would generate interest in our organization. Inside, at the show, I noticed many booths were devoted to hair extension sales, at least four such booths in my area alone. All the training that was required, according to their staff, was a ten minute video. It became quite clear that this market is far-reaching and will sell its product to anyone. What is even more disturbing is the fact that training is minimal… ten minutes to be exact!! I’m not in the hair extension business, but I am in the hair replenishment business and continuing education is a must. If stylists are not trained properly, clients will suffer. To this end, our Board of Directors at the American Hair Loss Council has formed a committee, chaired by Marsha Scott, a long time hair wearer and business owner herself to create an atmosphere of exposure and education for the consumer and the professional. Bobbi Russell and Vikki Parman, both educators with broad backgrounds in hair extensions and the expertise and skill to train stylists have agreed to serve on the committee. They will serve as conduits connecting stylists and clients. We are so pleased to have them. The ultimate outcome will be that both consumers and professionals will be able to access our web site, which receives between 6,000 and 8,000 visits monthly, to learn from the best. The end result is to educate… educate… educate… through public awareness the consumer discovers the advantage of dealing with professional stylists.

Membership Information: For more information call 570.462.1101 or visit www.ahlc.org. For a membership form visit www.ahlc.org or email info@ahlc.org

The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council is the official, quarterly publication of the American Hair Loss Council. For information on advertising or contributing to content, please contact us: The American Hair Loss Council 30 South Main, Shenandoah, PA 17976 615.601.AHLC (2452) or info@ahlc.org

The Link Staff:

Senior Editor: René Meier Managing Editor: Janine Thornhill Design and Layout: e-zign Design Group, www.e-zign.com Creative Director: Terrell Thornhill

Contributors: Gary Sherwood, NAAF Communications Director Elvira Amankwa, CMP, New Image Labs Corp., Marketing Manager Robert Calabretta and Terry Wallick, Educators for Eufora International, Carlsbad, CA Anthony Santangelo, President, AMS Designs, Inc., Chicago Helena R. Gibson, Author and Owner of City Wigs Hair Solutions, Fresno, CA Ricky Knowles, Ricky Knowles Hair and Wellness, Houston, TX Bobbi Russell, Hair Therapy for Women, Tampa, FL

AHLC Board of Directors: Peggy Thornhill, President Marsha Scott, Vice President Susan Kettering, Executive Director Betty Ann Bugden, Treasurer/Membership Director René Meier, Board Member Joseph Ellis, Board Member

The opinions expressed in The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the views of the American Hair Loss Council. The advertisements in The Link do not necessarily reflect the beliefs, opinions or attitudes of the AHLC and does not imply product or service endorsement. The American Hair Loss Council © 2011. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Published by e-zign Design Group. www.e-zign.com

Log into your members-only account on ahlc.org and click on Downloads. 4 The Link Issue 4, 2012

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

CONGRATULATIONS

Master Certification Recipient Lucinda Beaty

Lucinda Beaty

The AHLC is proud to announce another recipient of the Certified Masters in Hair Replacement. Lucinda Beaty, of Lucinda’s Hair Replacement, Cheshire CT, received her certification and is a member of a prestigious group of that strive for perfection, dedication and ethics in hair replacement.

Lucinda has been a member of the AHLC for over 15 years. She has made a name for herself in helping women and children suffering from Alopecia and hair loss due to chemotherapy. She trained her staff to apply the safest hair additions available. Having a large number of cancer patients made Lucinda want to become a mastectomy fitter so that she can help restore a woman’s image all the way through her illness.

in the US and abroad. We congratulate you, Lucinda! AHLC President Peggy Thornhill and René Meier presenting

She also received the Better Business Bureau’s ‘Torch Award’ for honesty and integrity and the 2012 ‘Member of the Year’ for her local Chamber of Commerce. Lucinda continues to learn as she travels to hair replacement conferences

FIND US ON Facebook.com/Cyberhair Twitter.com/Inthair

The Link Issue 4, 2012 5

ur European Hair Collection is

100% hand-made using the finest European hair which includes highlights, shine, bounce and softness to the touch. It actually mimics nature at its best. Our European Collection is the obvious choice for your demanding client who wants the best and most natural look. Available in a large selection of vibrant European hair color shades and styles.

KAYLA MARTELL • GEMTRESS SPOKESPERSON • MISS DELAWARE 2010 • 2011 MISS AMERICA PAGEANT FINALIST

MEDICI

COLOR: HY10 • LENGTH: 10”

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

A Capitol Achievement:

The 27th Annual National Alopecia Areata Foundation Conference by: Gary Sherwood, NAAF Communications Director The 2012 National Alopecia Areata Foundation (NAAF) Conference in Washington, DC, 7/19-7/25, was an unqualified success. The Conference attracted over 850 registered attendees from 42 states and six foreign nations. Of those attendees, 360 were VIP’s, (those attending their first conference). Befitting the setting, the Conference centerpiece was Advocacy Day on Capitol Hill. Some 600 attendees, including many children, marched to the hill on a refreshingly (and surprisingly) cool Friday morning to have their photo taken on the East Capitol Steps and make their voices heard over the course of 200 appointments with their Senators and Congressional Representatives. Issues most important to the NAAF community are $32 billion for the National Institutes of Health (NIH), guidance on alopecia areata treatment development from the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) which would lead to significant industry investment in alopecia areata research, and support of the MODDERN Cures Act (H.R. 3497), bipartisan legislation that encourages the development of innovative treatment options and diagnostic tests for conditions that currently lack in these areas. Esteemed Congresswoman Jackie Speier, representing California’s 12th congressional district, inspired the NAAF advocates with a stirring address. She is also the Democratic lead on NAAF’s letter to the FDA, her Republican counterpart being Congressman Bob Dold of Illinois.

There was plenty of fun and learning to be had for all ages, including NAAF’s famous Tortoise & Hair™ walk which raised money for alopecia areata research while encouraging attendees to tour their nation’s capital and its inspiring sights.

Dr. Julian Mackay-Wiggin, Director of the Dermatology Clinical Research Unit in New York, provided a fascinating lecture on the clinical aspects of alopecia areata and the state of present and future therapies. Dr. Maria Hordinsky, Chair of the NAAF Scientific Advisory Council, gave an informative update on the Alopecia Areata Treatment Development Program. The doctors also participated in Ask the Experts, where attendees could present their questions to a panel of the nation’s premiere alopecia areata researchers. As Conference attendees hugged, cried, and bade each other goodbye, the prevailing question on everyone’s lips was, When are we doing this again? The answer: June 2013, in St. Louis.

Shoppers could sample and purchase the latest alopecia areata-related products from the myriad exhibitor displays and marketplace vendors. Practical workshops included a cosmetic demonstration with live models, and an awareness seminar featuring event coordinators from around the country offering their expertise Perhaps the most memorable aspect of any Conference is the multitude of kids, both those with alopecia areata and their supportive siblings. This year was no different as children ages 5-17 had a boisterous good time while making new friends and memories at the Conference Camp. These kids come back year after year, and we have the special privilege of seeing them grow into young adulthood. At the 2012 Conference, attendees thrilled to presentations from Nashville recording artist Becky Hibbs and young filmmaker Kelci Parker, both who have alopecia areata and grew up with NAAF A silent auction raised funds with an array of highly coveted prizes, and a dessert dance party combined music, ice cream and partying down into one memorable blowout of a Saturday night. Sunday climaxed with a closing session featuring prizes for most Tortoise & Hair™ pledges, most steps taken (pedometers were issued at opening registration), and best dancing, followed by a surprise tribute and slideshow for NAAF President and CEO Vicki Kalabokes celebrating her 25 years heading the organization. The Link Issue 4, 2012 7

LinkAd_FullPg_NOV12_Layout 1 11/9/12 11:06 AM Page 1

The Complete Solution for

TREATING HAIR LOSS

Energize your Hair Follicles for Healthy Hair Growth with the HairMax LaserComb速 FDA Cleared: The HairMax LaserComb is the ONLY home use Hair Growth Laser Light Device FDA Cleared to Treat Hair Loss and Promote Hair Growth* Clinically Proven: 93% of Men and Women in seven independent clinical studies experienced significant hair growth with an average increase of 149 additional hairs per square inch. Doctor Recommended: HairMax is backed by a 30 member medical advisory board and recommended by physicians worldwide. Energize weakened hair follicles, accelerate hair growth rate, reverse the thinning process, increase density, thickness and fullness of hair.

BEFORE

AFTER

Non Drug Treatment with NO Serious Side Effects. SALON PACKAGES AVAILABLE

HAIRMAXSALONS.COM | 1.888.841.2535 FDA Indications: *The HairMax LaserComb is indicated to treat Androgenetic Alopecia, and promote hair growth in females who have Ludwig (Savin) I-4, II-1, II-2, or frontal patterns of hair loss and in males who have Norwood Hamilton Classifications of IIa to V and who both have Fitzpatrick Skin Types I to IV. Laser light - avoid direct eye exposure.

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Marketing on a Shoestring M

by: Elvira Amankwa, CMP, New Image Labs Corp., Marketing Manager

arketing is the creative powerhouse of your business but many small business owners shy away from marketing. The daily tasks of running the business seem so consuming that there is little time, let alone money, left for marketing. Moreover, in years past, word-of-mouth seemed sufficient to keep a studio afloat. It is crucial to be engaged in meaningful marketing techniques in order to communicate and reach out to potential clients with the goal of developing relationships and spreading the word about your products and services. You can be the best at what you do, but if you don’t let the world know, what good is it? The truth is that a surefire way to kill any business is not to market at all. It is safe to say that when you change your marketing, you change your business results, and even small changes add up. You may ask how to budget for this or wonder where the money will come from. Let’s go back to the basics of what marketing is. Marketing is mainly communicating and reaching out to potential customers with the goal to developing relationships and spread the word about your products and services.

Networking

When done with consistency and smarts, this form of marketing can develop into a very powerful tool, will create visibility for your business in your local community and build your reputation as a caring leader and prime service provider in hair replacement. Participate in local Chamber of Commerce functions, health fairs, women groups and charity events. Become part of what is happening in your local community and as you become involved your visibility level will increase. Many studio owners make it mandatory for their staff to participate in at least

two volunteer events a year. Studio owners and managers network regularly in their community and are active in a charity of their choice. They are realizing that the positive effects of doing good are connections, good will and exposure.

Public Relations

Establish contacts with local media and send out press releases to let them know about any exciting developments in your studio or the industry. Focus on how your studio/this development serves the public and not on how great you are. Being part of a local event or getting involved with a charity are good ways to get the word out. Invite local media to your studio with an invitation to see how you are serving certain segments of the community, for example children, women with hair loss, Alopecia clients, etc.

There is a great marketing tool entitled “Spotlight Series” which showcases out-of-the-box marketing tips at www.newimagelabs.com. It is completely free. In addition, we also feature “Face-to-face Matters – Tips for effective Events Marketing” with insider tips and information on how to roll out an events strategy on a small budget.

Special Events

Events are a great opportunity to invite potential clients into your studio in a non-threatening way. Informative, educational gatherings, such as hair loss seminars, work well in the women’s market. Open houses with exciting demonstrations and fun drawings are a great way to get foot traffic into your location. This can be done on a minimum budget with simple, light refreshments and a few give-aways. Also, partnering with a charity and hosting joint events with them can help create goodwill and spread the word about your business. “Lunch-and-Learn” is a great way to get involved with at doctors’ offices, such as dermatologists, oncologists and psychologists. When hosting a “Lunch-and-Learn” you organize a small luncheon with the key staff at a doctor’s office to introduce them to your services and while serving light refreshments. One client of ours had great success with serving cupcakes at an event while presenting her medical hair loss services to the staff. This doctor’s office has since become a prime referral source for her. Yes, sometimes cupcakes are all it takes!

The hardest thing about the above marketing techniques is consistency. Make continuous face-to-face marketing a top priority. It does require personal discipline and dedication. Oftentimes you will have step out of your comfort zone, without it, there will be no real growth. If you do what you have always done, you will generate the exact same results. The time is right to try something new. Get out there, be visible in your community, open your doors and let the world know that you are a trusted partner when it comes to a deeply personal matter, the head of hair they are carrying on their shoulders. The Link Issue 4, 2012 9

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Two Stories of Two Friends by: Robert Calabretta and Terry Wallick

Robert Calabretta of Cleveland, Ohio and Terry Wallick of New Philadelphia, Ohio are both 40-year veterans in the hair replacement industry. This team of two has embarked on a new venture. They are currently international educators for Eufora International, located in Carlsbad, California.

Robert’s Story:

I am the son of a master barber, my brother and my cousin are also barbers and my uncle was a hairdresser. At age 12 I began cutting hair in a barbershop and while there, became interested in hair styling and competition cutting. During this time I was recognized for my talent by receiving two, third-place ribbons and one, second-place ribbon. I think this shifted my focus and gave me a greater understanding of the necessity of precision cutting. At 16 I graduated from barber school and during high school I barbered during the summers. Nobody could cut a shag haircut like me! I graduated from Kent State University in 1978 with degrees in Criminal Justice and Political Science. I continued to cut hair all through college just to keep in practice. Best of all, this paid my way through college! In 1983 I opened my own hair salon. One of my first clients needed a wig due to chemotherapy. I suggested a few places to him but was not happy with the results. He then asked me to do his 10 The Link Issue 4, 2012

hair. I knew nothing about hair replacement. I called Allen Arthur Company and the next thing I knew I was on a plane to Chicago for my first New Man hair loss seminar. I

learned about wigs and met Terry Wallick of New Philadelphia, Ohio. We were given a free hairpiece for attending. I had the top of my head shaved and given a new head of hair. That is the day I became a hair replacement wearer and was fully aware of what it meant to be a hair replacement client. Being a hair wearer myself has given me the ability to fully understand the needs of the client. It gives me a personal connection to their concerns. I think this has been one of my greatest

assets. Terry Wallick and I became great friends. In fact, we made a pact. We were going to learn everything about the hair replacement business and there was nothing new going on that we won’t know about. We went to every seminar: On-Rite, New Image, New Man and New Concepts. We also took advantage of the technical and business classes offered by Arcos and American Hairlines.

Now, I own a very successful salon in Parma Ohio with a staff of three stylists that are fully trained in hair loss solutions. Our services include hair replacement for men and women, medical wigs, hair extensions and laser treatment for hair loss. We offer the latest techniques in bonding and grafting. We offer program hair and the latest trend in hair additions. Terry and I have traveled and taught many classes on both hair replacement and classic barbering. Our clients include On-Rite, Metropolitan Hairgoods and Eufora International.

The Link The Voice of the AHLC Through contacts and referrals made at various seminars we have been asked to conduct classes for individual salons, teaching hair replacement techniques and barbering skills. We tailor our classes to the needs of the students. All of our classes involve hands-on training with mannequins and live models.

so lately I have been focusing all of my energies on the true education that is lacking in our industry.

We teach 3 basic concepts:

1. How to be different from other salons 2. How to make a living without coloring hair 3. A systematic approach to cutting so you never get lost in a haircut At our academy the classes are 3 days with a limit of 24 students. Eighty percent of the time is spent on handson training. Our distributor network sets up the classes. Due to the declining number of barbers the men’s market is shifting to beauty shops so we are teaching them barbering skills with emphasis on the razor. In addition, both baby boomers and females want a solution to thinning hair, making this a wide open market.

three variables in a haircut to achieve any desired shape to compliment an individual. 1. Length of hair 2. Projection off the scalp 3. Finger angle The purpose at Eufora is to teach hairdressers barbering skills while focusing on the razor; this because razor-cutting from the 60’s and 70’s is becoming a lost art. We conduct classes at Eufora’s state-of-the-art education center in Carlsbad as well as traveling for in-salon tutorials all over North America. We also conduct classes for male and female hair replacement utilizing the same techniques. We strive to conduct classes that provide the knowledge, skill and confidence to access the hairdresser’s individual creativity

in haircutting. The art of haircutting requires constant practice and improvement. We’re always looking for a better easier way.

Terry’s Story: I started in the hair replacement business in the early ‘70’s. Robert and I met in Chicago at an Allen Arthur hair replacement conference. We both received our education training from Eufora International in Carlsbad, California. Robert and I were were introduced to Eufora at a hair replacement seminar in Florida where we met Don Bewly, Owner and CEO of Eufora International. I have great interest in teaching

Many students are interested in hair replacement so we also offer classes in that area. The things we teach are what we have been doing in our own salons for many years. We attend many trade shows to stay current with what is happening in the hair replacement industry. We utilize the latest techniques including full head and perimeter bonding, and also non-surgical methods. We teach a step-by-step systematic approach utilizing the only

Our mission is to provide the knowledge, skill and confidence for someone to access their individual creativity. The future of hair replacement is very bright because of the increased quality of the products and the skill of the professionals doing the work. Our business philosophy is very simple: Quality product, fair price, and incredible service. I continue to operate my salon of 42 years and travel on the weekends. I have 4 employees beside myself. We are a blend of hair replacement for men, women and traditional hairstyling. The Link Issue 4, 2012 11

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Please Welcome our New New Members:

Elaine Magliacano Anagen Hair Solutions, Montclair NJ

Elaine has been in the hair restoration business for 15 years, 13 of those years were with Hair Club For Men as a stylist supervisor. In July, 2011, she branched out on her own. She has a large laser and hair replacement clientele and has recently added “tape-in” hair extensions to her menu.

Renewing Members:

Sara Lou Manning, Custom Design Hair Design, Rogers, AR

Sara Lou has been a hairdresser for over 40 years. Her passion to help people have the hair they want even when health or circumstances caused their hair to go away. She is excited to be able to learn from the best in the industry and align her business with professional companies. Lucinda Beaty, Lucinda’s Hair, Cheshire, CT

Lucinda, owner and operator, has been working with hair additions and extensions for over 30 years. She is an educator for various national and international companies throughout the world and continues to educate herself and staff with the latest technologies and designs.

Sheryl McCaleb, Hair Prosthesis Institute, Nashville, TN

Sheryl uses her vast expertise with hair to create custom, natural-looking hair addition designs for women and children experiencing any form of hair loss. Sheryl continues to provide cutting-edge, non-surgical hair loss solutions offering laser light therapy. She is affiliated with dermatologists specializing in hair loss at The Hair & Scalp Institute. David M. Fearing; President, New England Associates, Wakefield MA and Manchester New Hampshire-

David started in this industry, in 1977, working for wholesalers and retailers in the Boston market. In 1982 he opened his first office that specialized in hair replacement. Since then his company has evolved to offer every successful method to replace, restore and grow lost hair including hair replacement, hair transplantation and laser hair therapy. His companies own the HairStart® and HairGiant® brands. Helena Gibson, City Wigs, Fresno, CA

Helena has had over 10 years experience in the wig industry. In addition to owning and operating two locations of City Wigs Hair Solutions, she is a trained volunteer with the “Look Good Feel Better” program. In 2011 Helena started City Wigs Foundation which helps women who Robert M. Bernstein MD, FAAD, ABHRS, cannot afford a wig. Helena is also the 2011 winner of the SBDC New York, NY Women owned business of the year. Last year she published a Dr. Bernstein is a Clinical Professor of Dermatology at Columbia University in New York and book, Secrets to Beautiful Hair...Tips and Tricks to Wigs & Extena world renowned hair transplant surgeon. His sions. She is currently working on her second book & third store location. landmark medical publications on Follicular UnitTransplantation and Follicular Unit Extraction have revolutionized hair restoration surgery and provide the foundation for techniques used by hair transplant surgeons across five continents.

12 The Link Issue 4, 2012

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

and Renewed Members: Ricky Knowles, Ricky Knowles Hair and Wellness, Houston, TX

A rising star in the US and international markets for his all around technical and artistic expertise. Since 2006 Ricky has been a New Image Exclusive Educator and consultant. In 2009 Ricky and wife Kristen Knowles opened Ricky Knowles Hair and Wellness in Houston Texas, a unique salon that combines Ricky’s expertise in hair replacement and Kristen’s expertise in medical compression therapy and post mastectomy solutions. Ricky’s work with Trichotillomania has earned him professional kudos and even landed a spot on MTV’s True Life. Joseph B. Neiman, MD, Neiman Dermatology & Hair Transplantation, Buffalo, NY

Dr. Neiman is a Board Certified dermatologist specializing in hair transplantation. He and his skilled staff offer a permanent solution for men and women suffering from hair loss. With over 30 years of experience and the most advanced techniques available, Dr. Neiman achieves superior and natural-looking results. Offering general dermatology and esthetic services as well, their goal is to deliver an unparalleled “wow” experience for patients by combining excellence in dermatology with friendly personalized care. Lisa Zimmerman, National Hair Centers, Phoenix, AZ

As an internationally recognized Hair Restoration Company, NHC offers every method of hair restoration for men, women and children experiencing hair loss. Founded in 1975, NHC is the most experienced hair restoration company in Arizona. Their state-of-the-art facility is the largest in the world.

Alan J. Bauman, MD, Bauman Medical Group, Boca Raton, FL

Focusing exclusively on the treatment of hair loss in men and women, Dr. Bauman is one of only approximately one hundred doctors certified by the American Board of Hair Restoration Surgery and one of only fifty doctors recommended by the American Hair Loss Association in the world. As a proud member of the American Hair Loss council since 1998, Dr. Bauman has treated over 15,000 hair loss patients and performed over 6,000 hair transplant procedures. Kristin Webb, Profiles By Kristin, Syracuse, NY

Kristin opened her business in 1996 hoping to give people a refreshing new option for their hair loss solutions. She has over 20 years of hands-on experience in the hair replacement industry. Kristin brings a dignified and honest approach to her clientele, staff and industry partners. Kristin’s touch of class and artistry provides a much overdue service in this limited industry of hair replacement. Carl Howell, Advanced Hair Studio, East Melbourne, Victoria, Australia

In 1976, having established Advanced Hair Studio as one of the largest hair restoration companies in the USA, Carl returned to his native Australia to develop more effective procedures of hair replacement and restoration, because ‘He knew there had to be a better way.’ Today, over 500,000 men and women have benefited from Advanced Hair Studio’s advice and patented procedures available at approximately 70 studios worldwide.

To become a member or renew contact Betty Ann Bugden, Membership Director, 570-462-1101 or log on to www.AHLC.org. The Link Issue 4, 2012 13

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

The Check of Approval by: Peggy Thornhill, AHLC President You’ve worked hard, built your business, served your clients and made life more bearable for them. They walk out of your business with a smile on their face, spring in their step and the confidence they haven’t had in years. Now they can face the world head-on because now they “look like themselves” again, thanks to you. You’ve fulfilled a need in their life and made a difference for someone. It’s time to let your clients, the public and all who enter your establishment know that you have met qualifications and are an accredited business, approved by the highest standards. This is why we require members to provide evidence of their credibility when joining the AHLC. Yes, the AHLC has requirements but this is an organization of the best and now you can let everyone who enters your business know you are accredited and that you’ve earned it. Current members can purchase this plaque for $150. Contact Betty Bugden. 570-590-1191. A Confident Client 12x16 inch, high-quality acrylic and chrome construction

HRI of Pennsylvania, Pittsburgh

Classic Designs, Hattiesburg, MS

Raleigh Hair Concepts, Raleigh, NC

The Link Issue 4, 2012 15

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

The Mastermind Behind Ghost Bond An Interview with Howard Margolin by: Joseph Ellis You think you know someone but when you sit down to interview that person, a friend in the business, you find that his life is much more detailed than what you might have thought. I have known Howard for a long time and enjoyed hearing about his colorful past. I want to thank Howard for talking to us and being such a big supporter of the AHLC and our industry.

was part of starting HRS (Hair Replacement Systems) group in 1976.

AHLC:

I know that you are the mastermind behind Ghost Bond. How did you begin in the hair replacement business?

Howard: My brother wore hair and asked me to offer my help in organizing the salon that he went to because the owner needed help. Up until that point I had owned a couple of businesses. One of them was a bar/restaurant/nightclub. I had also been the instrumental part in the recording doo-wop group “The Demesions” in the 1960’s on Coral Records. When I was 18 years old we had our ﬁrst number one hit, Over the Rainbow. We had changed the melody from the original. Later we received a telegram from Judy Garland saying that it was the best rendition she had ever heard. Once I became involved in my brother’s salon, I quickly became interested in the hair business. The head technician for that salon became my future wife of now 32 years. She made me even more interested in the salon. The owner of that salon had some addictions that he needed to get a grip on but after some time I realized that he was not ready to make that business work. I then decided to take my newfound passion and open my own salon. My future wife, the head technician, came with me and we built a good business. After some time, I ended up with a couple of salons in Tampa from 1983-1996. I was also 16 The Link Issue 4, 2012

Howard Margolin

AHLC:

Really? I had no idea that you had your hands in so many things. Tell us a little more about your involvement in HRS.

Howard: Once I got established with my salon, I got together with 60 other salons and created HRS. The purpose for doing this was to pull the major salons together and create a powerful advertising campaign to brand our image in order to increase our client base in each of our salons. It worked great for a while until others wanted to take it into a franchise. At that time I decided to leave the HRS brand. AHLC:

What helped you move into the bonding business?

Howard: In 1992, my wife was diagnosed with toxic poisoning. We found out that it was due to all the unsafe chemical toxins that she had breathed in for all those years in the hair replacement salon. In 1992, I put together a team of biochemists to develop the industry’s ﬁrst line of non-toxic bonding products, products that are safe for the

technicians and for the client. I was told that it could not be done by most of the heavy weights in the industry. I knew it could be done. It took over 6 months of explaining the hair

The Link The Voice of the AHLC replacement industry to my team of chemists to make sure that all the ingredients were non-toxic. I sold my salons in 1994 and started Professional Hair Labs. At one point, I actually shaved my hair for two years to see how it feels to wear hair and to see what frustrations a client would go through so I could develop a great product.

able to produce a great product that would take up the slack. That allowed me to get noticed and was an important stepping-stone for me to grow my business.

ingredients and they have been produced in a totally sterile environment. The lab environment that produces a medical silicone is totally white, with everyone wearing all white, in an all

AHLC:

What was the reaction of the wholesale industry during your decision to start up a bonding company?

Howard: The main response was that it could not be done and I would be swallowed up by the big ﬁshes. However, I knew that it could be done and I was not going to stop until I developed a product that I would feel good about. During that time, Dow Chemical, which was producing a product called 355 Silicone, had to stop production due to the fact that the product contained Freon. This created a shortage for our industry. I was

Howard Margolin with actor, John Stamos (L) and Beach Boys’ Brian Wilson (R)

AHLC: How would a salon professional know if their current bonds have any toxic ingredients?

white room. This is a total sterile environment, which produces a one-of-akind product.

Howard: Request a MSDS sheet from the manufacturer and familiarize your self with the ingredients. You should never use a bonding product without the MSDS sheet. A MSDS sheet will list all the ingredients in the product. You can Google any ingredient to ﬁnd out if it is toxic. One ingredient that I would suggest not to use would be Dimethylol Dimethyl Hydantoin. It is a pesticide and can still be used today in some products available today.

AHLC:

How is your products tested for safety?

Howard: After they have passed all the test requirements in the lab, we send it out to 12 different studios around the world for a minimum of 6 months of user testing. Once all 12 come back with great feedback we then release the product to our customers. AHLC:

How would you describe your current line of products?

Howard: We bring safe and effective products, at affordable prices, to the market. All the products have non-toxic

What are your latest products that we might not have seen yet?

Howard: We have two, the new Ghost Bond XL and Ghost Mist. Ghost Bond XL has added moisture control and a higher melting point than the original. We formulated it for oily scalps and high humidity. The second product, Ghost Mist, is a ﬁnishing spray with a rich blend of oil derived from Moroccan Argan Trees. The beneﬁts are UV protection, thermal protection, seals split ends while controlling frizz and adding shine. AHLC:

Is there anything else you would like our members to know?

Howard: We are very proud of our contribution to the industry. We offer 24/7 customer support for any of our products. If you are having an issue with any of our products please give us a call, we would be glad to help advise you. AHLC:

Howard, thank you for taking the time to share your story with our members. We look forward in seeing what you develop in the future. The Link Issue 4, 2012 17

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

The 2012 AHLC Conference Valuable Time Well Spent by: Anthony Santangelo, AHLC Past President

fter several years of missing the AHLC Annual Conference, I found myself in Fort Lauderdale, Florida for the 2012 Conference. I’m not sure what I expected to see but what I can say is I was very impressed with what I did see. Yes there were the cocktail parties and the meet and greets but there was also a buzz about. Everyone that was there wanted to be there to learn, connect and grow and that’s exactly what they received. The educational aspect of the conference was just what we have come to expect from the AHLC. The programs gave all the attendees the tools to address what is happening in business, from more defined attachment methods to different ways to define the needs of the client as well as how to deal with this difficult economic environment. The guest lecturers were concise and on point to what we are facing in the hair replacement industry today, they discussed many of the subjects we are now being asked in our studios and most importantly, they gave us answers. I saw old friends and made some new ones, just what the AHLC Conference has always done, bring people together to learn and grow. It was so nice seeing Dr. Carlos Puig and catching up face to face. It was extremely heartwarming. As much as you try to keep up via email, text and that old fashion device called a phone, there is nothing better than sitting down face-to-face and just relaxing. I first became aware of Dr. Alan Bauman through LinkedIn. We have been involved in numerous discussions and, thanks to this conference, we finally got the chance to meet. There were two old (and I don’t mean age) friends that I was really glad to see and that were Andy Wright and Okyo Sthair. 18 The Link Issue 4, 2012

We had some wonderful conversations and a lot of laughs. And the ageless Leigh Gardner and I had some really good talks. I met a very nice group from Syracuse, New York. Over the weekend we had the opportunity to discuss many of the issues we are all facing today in our respective markets. As much as the AHLC has stayed true to its roots, it has evolved. It has faced some very difficult times. With the hard work and dedication of the Board of Directors, the AHLC is poised to become the premier association for the hair replacement industry once again. This group has worked very hard to develop and implement standards that can take all of us to the next level of achievement. I saw firsthand how excited everyone was to be at the conference. Everyone learned something, from the novice to the experienced. Another thing I was glad to see was the suppliers and manufactures. From the largest to the newest, they were there in full support of what the AHLC board has been doing. As much as I enjoyed everything, there was also a slight sadness. It came from the fact that for as many friends and colleagues I saw there were far too many that I didn’t. Some have passed on, some may have been busy or had pressing matters to deal with, but no matter the reason, they were missed. After missing several years of the conference, I am very happy I went and am looking forward to next year. As I have said time and time again, if you walk away from anything with just one new idea, lesson or thought you have walked away a winner. Even after as many years as I have been in this business I still walked away feeling re-energized and a

bit more ready for what we are all dealing with. If I can give anyone reading this a bit of advice, you should do everything you can to attend the next conference. You never know what you might learn. I hope to see all of you there next year and please, take a moment and say hello.

Save the Date! 2013 ANNUAL CONFERE NCE

MAY 4-6, 2013

Hyatt Regency Pier Six ty-Six

FORT LAUDERDALE

Contact Betty Bugden 570.462.1101 • info@a hlc.org

OFFER GOOD UNT IL FEBRUARY 1,

LIMITED • RESERVE YOURS TODAY

New Image Labs Unveils:

www.NewImageLabs.com An enhanced online experience to make your life easier, reduce your overhead, and save you time

Same address. Better experience. Real savings. Convenient • Completely redesigned website with easy navigation • Place your orders 24/7 • Personalized “Favorites” section for easy reference • “Past Order History” for a quick glance • “Order Tracking” also for custom orders

Economical • FREE ground shipping for all domestic hair orders (excludes international orders and accessories) • Increase efficiency by ordering online and gain time for other tasks

Secure • Safe online shopping on a trusted VeriSign approved site

Not registered with New Image yet? Or you registered and have never placed an online order with us? Now is the time to give it a try and receive a SPECIAL BONUS.

Call 1-800-359-4247 for details and mention code LIN-BON

Special bonus offer January 31, Special bonus offer valid valid untill till November 30, 2013. 2012

NewImageLabs.com | NewImageUniversity.com | Connect with New Image University

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Hair Care 101 by: Helena R. Gibson Let me start with saying how much I love being involved in this great industry. The satisfaction we get from helping our clients can be as life changing for us as it is for them. My mom was actually the reason I got into this field. I owned an auto repair shop at the time my mom first started experiencing hair loss. She was very frustrated in seeking a solution to her thinning hair; she was forced to tolerate poor customer service, unknowledgeable and uncaring staff, and a lack of selection for her wig needs. I started by offering hair pieces at a kiosk in the mall in 2003; followed by a small wig studio, and then in 2008, I opened my anchor store, City Wigs Hair Solutions in Fresno, California.

until they had reason to. As I found myself repeating the same information again and again, I knew I could fill the educational void for clients regarding wigs, hair extensions, hair enhancers, hair fiber, and non-surgical hair enhancements. My path into this industry, my passion for educating clients, extensive professional accomplishments and giving back philosophy is why, then, I wrote my book, “Secrets to Beautiful Hair… Tips and Tricks to Working with Wigs and Hair Extensions.“ As Jimmy “General” Toscano says, “This book is fantastic! Very thorough and informative, just a wonderful book.”

I knew I could fill the educational void for clients... My growth continued with the opening of my second studio in Solana Beach, California one year ago. Hair loss is personal and I realized, firsthand, how much of a need there was for educated, caring, and professional studios and staff in this industry. I could tell that consumers craved and deserved an easy-to-read, comprehensive review of hair loss causes and solutions to alleviate their anxiety and help them make the best choice for their happiness . Consumers were frustrated, uninformed and unprepared to make an emotional and important purchase. Alternative hair solutions were not a topic they were ever informed about, nor wanted to be

Many clients purchase my book from one of my studios or Amazon and feel more comfortable with their purchasing decisions after reading it. An interesting side note, Ed at Jon Renau provides a copy of my book to all new employees and makes it mandatory reading.

A FEW QUESTIONS TO CONSIDER

Do your clients want more hair but have no idea what options are open to them?

Would they appreciate an easy to follow, educational review that covers all relevant hair loss solutions?

Do they know the FDA has cleared cold laser therapy to help prevent further hair loss and promote growth?

Is their perception about wigs, and other hair loss products, in line with what is actually available? They may be pleasantly surprised to find today’s options are affordable, comfortable, very attractive, natural looking, and in up-to-date styles with flattering shades.

Are your clients aware that their choice of synthetic or human hair can be tailored to their life styles and maintenance preferences?

Do they know that there are pharmaceutical quality shampoos, conditioners and hair treatment products specifically made to stop hair loss and promote new growth? These state-of-theart treatment products are only available through hair loss professionals.

The Link Issue 4, 2012 21

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

A Different Philosophy

An Interview with Jürgen Schillo by: René Meier Last April, several other AHLC board members and I traveled to Germany to attend the BVZ hair replacement conference. While we were there we took time to visit Jürgen Schillo’s hair salon. He runs his salon with his wife Petra and son Patrick. They have multiple locations in Germany and Luxemburg. Each time we turned around we noticed that nothing was close to average. He is a master of reinvention, an individualist, customer service oriented and an expert at branding himself. When we walked in we noticed his name was on the carpet, shampoo bottles, sugar packets, umbrellas, bags and pens. His clients looked great, stylish and up to date. His staff was extremely courteous and treated us like we were in a 5 star restaurant. “How about a cup of espresso, cappuccino or perhaps a glass of champagne?” Not to mention the cookie that comes with the coffee and Schillo sugar. He just makes you feel special. In Europe we used to admire the Americans for superior customer service, but I think we have lost some of it and the Europeans have caught on. We have the tendency to take

our clients for granted and don’t make them feel special anymore.

went on my first factory trip to Hong Kong in 1975.

This visit was an eye opener for all of us and inspired us to improve the way we do business. After watching Jürgen and his staff all day, he took some time to sit down with us and share some of his ways of doing business. The one thing Jürgen told us that he really appreciated about the AHLC is that he could network with other peers to get ideas and visit the exhibits at the annual conference.

AHLC: So you have always been at this location?

Schillo: Yes, I took over the company

industry?

from my father in the early 1970’s and was looking to relocate the salon to the city to be more centrally located. I found out that the rent was much higher and I didn’t feel like working half the month to just pay the rent, so I decided to stay here in Dudweiler (a small suburb of Saarbrucken). We are now so established that it doesn’t matter where we are. Our clients come from all over Germany.

Schillo: My father opened a barbershop

AHLC: We noticed that the salon was

here, in this house, in the 1950’s and I became a men’s hairdresser in 1966. Since I suffered from hair loss at the time, I got interested in hair replacement and started to order hairpieces for myself from every manufacturer. I quickly became one of the largest distributers of men’s hairpieces, by the Herzig Company here in Germany, and

very open. Do your hair replacement clients have any problems mixing with your regular clients instead of being in private rooms?

AHLC: How did you get started in this

Schillo: No, not at all. They are all used to that. The new clients are serviced in private rooms, but eventually they get used to coming in for service and have no issue mixing with our salon clientele.

AHLC: Is it the same for women? Schillo: We have private rooms for women upstairs

AHLC: You mentioned that you have clients from all over Germany. Do they actually travel every month to see you?

Schillo: They usually go to their local hair salon for hair cutting, color etc. We don’t do any permanent attachments; therefore it’s not necessary for them to travel to us every month. They just come when it’s time for reordering.

AHLC: We noticed that you also travel to Berlin, Frankfurt and Munich? 22 The Link Issue 4, 2012

How about a cup of espresso, cappuccino or perhaps a glass of champagne?

The Link Issue 4, 2012â&#x20AC;&#x192; 23

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Schillo: That’s what we call “Schillo on Tour.” We had several interviews on national television, which brought us a lot of business over the years. So when we travel we rent a local salon for a weekend in each city to consult with clients and take orders. About 3 months later we return to deliver the hair systems. This is how we established our name and brand all over the country. AHLC: Talking about branding. We noticed that you even have your name on the sugar packets here in the salon.

Schillo: Yes, we believe in branding our name and not anybody else’s name or product. We give our clients umbrellas, pens and shopping totes with our name. Branding our name is our philosophy or as I like to call it “Schillosophy.”

AHLC: Very clever!

Since your branding is unique to you, how is the actual product?

Schillo: Everything we do is 100% custom! We don’t work with stock at all. Our designs are totally custom fitted so there is very little adhesive necessary. As I said, our clients usually tape their hair and we like to keep the maintenance at home minimal. The color is also very individual. We use different colors for each section and, in addition, use spotlights throughout for a more natural appearance. We are also very specific with the density. We actually tell the factory how many hairs per square centimeter we want.

AHLC: That sounds like you are very detailed? Schillo: I guess it’s kind of old school, but the results are very natural and basically camera ready. It is also our signature. Each hair system is individual and has “Schillo” written all over it. That is our “Schillosophy.”

AHLC: Do you have a hard time getting the quality that you demand from the factory?

24 The Link Issue 4, 2012

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Schillo: Yes, especially for the ladies. We use mostly virgin, European hair for the ladies. We show our clients the bulk hair first and let them touch and feel it. Then we send it to our factory and put it into our designs. This way we have more control over the product. AHLC: How did you get all this knowledge? Schillo: Many years of experience of course, but also traveling to the factories gave me a lot of insight. I travel to Asia at least twice a year and visit the factories that produce for us. I have also been traveling to the United States for many years to exchange knowledge. I joined the AHLC and Transitions as well as belong to different organizations here in Europe.

AHLC: You have very nice photography in all your brochures? Schillo: We produce all our own marketing materials and photography. All the models in our advertising are clients of ours. We have our own taste and again want to brand only us and not something else.

AHLC: How do you advertise? Schillo: We still do print ads in newspapers and magazines. I have a regular column in a local magazine, which works very well for us. We have a network of physicians we work with. We also do mailings and Internet of course. We also opened a wig shop in a local hospital, which has worked very well for us.

AHLC: Do you still work behind the chair? Schillo: Certainly, all day, every day. Even though I am of retirement age I think, I’ll wait until I’m about 90 before I’ll consider slowing down.

The Link Issue 4, 2012 25

ANASTASIA LONG RH

Pre-cut human hair Available in 13-15 inch Optimal for many creative styles

1920 EAST OAKLAND PARK BLVD • FORT LAUDERDALE, FL 33306

866-681-HAIR (4247) • EUROPEANHAIRIMPORTS.COM

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Member Spotlight: Lou Verrone My name is Lou Verrone and for over 40 years I have owned and operated Etc. Hair Replacement Studio. We started in Newark, New Jersey and then moved to Livingston, New Jersey. I was born in Salerno, Italy and my family and I migrated to the United States when I was a young boy. As a young teenager growing up in Paterson, New Jersey I always had an interest in hair. As a matter of fact, when my friends and I went to any of the dances they always came to me and I would style their hair for them. I guess that is how it all began for me and my career in hair.

most beneficial source of information through networking, camaraderie and seeing the vendors under one roof at the annual conferences. After attending many of these conferences you get to know the other members. I have found that each member is always eager to help in any way they can in solving some problems that I may come across and I am more than willing to do the same for them. We have become what I like to think as a close-knit family.

I can go on and on talking about myself but the only thing I would like to say is that I started out as a young teenager with a real love of working with hair and through the years my interest continued to grow. As in most things in life, if you really have a passion for what you are doing you will always succeed and it is never a job. I am happy that I chose the hair industry as my passion and am very grateful for what it has given back to me.

At 17 I began cutting hair and apprenticed under some of the leading hair replacement specialists of that time. I went to the Atlas Barber School in New York City, which I remember vividly to this day. I have fond memories of Atlas. After completing the one-year course I started working for one the top hair stylist/hair replacement shops in New Jersey, which was called Hollywood Joes. After that I worked at Vegas Vince and then Pasadena Pete. Back then everybody had those crazy names for their shops! In 1968 I opened my own hair replacement studio which was originally called Manâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s World. After a year or two I realized it was not inclusive and I wanted to grow my business, so I changed it to Etc. Hair Replacement Studio, as I am now known. I have extensive background and experience in all hair replacement systems and continue to learn the newest techniques through on-going education. I have recently introduced LLLT - Low Level Light Therapy to my clients. LLLT is a great tool for people who do not have extensive hair loss and do not want to wear a hair system. I have been an active member of the American Hair Loss Council for over 18 year. The AHLC has been the The Link Issue 4, 2012â&#x20AC;&#x192; 27

Dr. Alex Khadavi explains why his hair loss solution, Revivogen is the preferred natural hair loss treatment of the most esteemed Hair Translpant Surgeons in the US. Alex Khadavi, MD is a board certified dermatologist and an Associate Professor of Dermatology at the University of Southern California

Their patients are losing hair and need to stop it immediately before going through a serious surgical procedure. Even after the surgery, they need to be using something highly effective to prevent further hair loss and preserve their investment. Rogaine and Propecia just donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t cut it. Revivogen is the only topical natural solution that can be used by both men and women without side effects and with proven results. These esteemed hair restoration specialists recognize that Revivogen is the best option for their patients.

For more information or wholesale opportunities for Revivogen Call 310-442-9700 or email Salesteam@Revivogen.com

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Goodbye to Baseball Caps by: Anonymous Client

As anyone in our business knows, we form our client relationships from personal and intimate stories. This is just one example of those stories, and one example of a personal, intimate relationship I treasure. – Marsha Scott For about five years, whenever I left the house I wore a baseball cap – at least when I could. Sometimes, baseball caps are simply inappropriate like when giving a speech at a conference or attending a wedding. I tried a multitude of other techniques to hide my thinning hair. I tried different ways of combing it. I used hair dye. And I told myself that it wasn’t really that bad, that it didn’t matter so much and that it really didn’t look so noticeable. But who was I kidding? I didn’t understand why I was the only woman around with this problem. When I passed by pedestrians on the streets of New York City it seemed as if just about every woman had better, fuller hair than I did. (It actually didn’t occur to me that some of that lovely hair I saw on other people’s heads had gotten there with assistance from hair professionals.) In a funny way, my lack of hair made me obsessed with hair. I told myself that appearance wasn’t that important, but then why did I pay so much attention to the way other people looked? All my life people thought I was younger than my age. Now, at 50, I am looking older and it isn’t just my hair. Since I just couldn’t seem to get those wispy strands to fully cover my scalp I began to let my appearance slip in other ways. Why worry about weight gain if you’re not looking that good to start with? So, I ate the extra chocolate

donut (or two). I stopped fitting into my clothes and started borrowing my husband’s t-shirts and sweaters. I had an epiphany, at my son’s graduation, courtesy of my sisters and a friend who was sitting in the balcony. I was sitting below with my daughter, husband and father. At a graduation you can’t wear a baseball cap so my head was uncovered. I thought I had gotten my hair, such as it was, to look pretty good that day. But the bird’seye view apparently wasn’t so hot. My sisters and friend started talking (or maybe a better word would be conspiring). After the graduation ceremony they came over with plentiful hugs, congratulations and a polite, but strong suggestion that I do something about my hair. “It’s time,” they said. And so I made an appointment with Marsha Scott, owner of Hair Loss Clinic for Women. The day I got my first hair system my husband was with me. I looked in the mirror and started to cry. “That’s what always happens,” said Marsha. “People cry when they first come in to see me and then they cry when they get their new hair.”

It’s been almost seven years now. I see Marsha every six weeks or so and my baseball caps stay in the closet. I’ve had different hair systems over the years and have gotten quite accustomed to the process. Every time I’m at Marsha’s place and she takes the hair system off I’m reminded of the skimpy amount of natural hair that I have. I continue to be amazed at the transformation when she puts the system back on. (Actually I look so much like my balding father, who passed away several years ago, that when the system is off and I look in the mirror I feel as if I’m seeing him again. It’s kind of nice.) Other than wearing my hair a bit lighter, my appearance is very similar to how I looked when my children were younger than when they were teenagers. It also helped that I lost weight and that I pay more attention to how I look in general. I didn’t really know how this one change could lead to other little changes and be so significant. But it did.

Oddly, when I first re-emerged into a life without hats, people told me I looked great. But they didn’t seem to know what had changed. “You look so young,” they’d say. Or, “I like your new hair cut.” The Link Issue 4, 2012 29

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Extreme Empathy

Finding First-Hand How Our Clients Feel by: Ricky Knowles As a hair care professional, you treat people dealing with hair loss on a daily basis but you have a full head of hair. You don’t know what it feels like, really, to look in the mirror each day and be afraid or self-conscious or vulnerable. Kristen Knowles, my wife and business partner, wasn’t about to let a lack of empathy get in the way of caring for our patients. While Kristen typically handles the “wellness” side of the Ricky Knowles Hair and Wellness business (her specialty is in treating Lymphedema patients and those in need of compression therapy), this vivacious woman wasn’t going to just sit back and wonder what it would feel like to experience hair loss. As she watched my clients arrive and depart, I know Kristen wondered what it must BE like to experience what they experience. She wondered what it would feel like and what she would choose in hair. So Kristen sat down in a chair one day and I shaved her head. Completely. “It doesn’t hurt,” was Kristen’s first observation. We had turned on a video camera in order to capture the experience, vowing to try different types of hair and styles and chronicle the results for our clients. “That’s good to know, that it doesn’t hurt them,” she commented as she narrated for a future audience. Soon after we finished, Kristen noted, “It’s cold and a sleep cap would definitely be a must,” as she continued talking into the camera, seemingly nonchalant about her new appearance. Her inspiration was to allow me to get feedback from someone completely open and honest. (Hey, if your wife can’t tell you how it is, no one can.) So, Kristen decided to embark on this month-long journey to identify wig 30 The Link Issue 4, 2012

types that she did and did not like. She’d also weigh-in on scalp treatment techniques that were soothing and healing, any hairstyles and looks that did or didn’t work for her and why. She’d compare one type of hair to another and determine why one was or wasn’t more desirable. As my sassy blonde’s locks fell to the floor, she instantly transformed into my most discerning, most open, most honest, and most opinionated client ever. And I learned, a lot.

Kristen Knowles

Kristen’s experience would present me with several challenges. Her head is small. She wears glasses. She prefers a short hairstyle. She’s active. I knew I had my work cut out for me. All the while, I marveled at why she had done this, why she had chosen to go where she didn’t have to, to experience what our clients are faced with and to be

brave about it. As my wife was sacrificing and experimenting for my benefit, to make me a better technician and more caring provider, I was amazed by her enthusiasm and her courage. After using double-sided tape to secure the first selection, Kristen was amazed at how natural it looked when she pulled her hair back. Her discovery process had begun and she dove off with a passion. “I’m amazed at how the polyurethane feels, it just breathes,” she said. I was layering and styling the first wig, an Angelina from New Image Labs that we had chosen for her. Her thoughtful narration into the video camera continued, “Here in Houston, that’s particularly important”, Kristen noted. Of course that’s important I thought. But I’d never had it hit home quite like it did when Kristen said it. Where someone lives, their activities, all of those things had been considerations before, but here I was fitting my wife to attend her workouts and buzz around Houston’s sub-tropical summer climate while remaining comfortable and confident. While styling one of the selections, Kristen said, “Ricky’s styling this just a bit longer than I would typically wear it,” as she’s not one to take the time to grow her hair out herself. We joked about a dinner party and how friends would think her hair had grown out. At this point, I realized that losing one’s hair is an opportunity to deviate from their norm, an opportunity to do something they might not otherwise attempt. This is where I could interject not only a little bit of fun, but also reinforce their confidence in wearing the piece. Case in point: One recent client had worn long hair all of her life. After receiving her diagnosis and visiting us for a consultation, she cut her hair off to a shorter

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Empathy is defined as the capacity to recognize feelings that are being experienced by another being. Professionals in the hair loss industry tend to throw around the word compassion, but to be truly compassionate one must be empathetic. Without empathy, without firsthand knowledge, experience or feelings, one cannot be completely compassionate. – Ricky Knowles style. People reacted well to her new look and the transition to wearing hair was seamless. Not one person knew or recognized the difference! As I mentioned, Kristen’s experience was documented in videos, which are available on YouTube. www.youtube.com/rickyknowleshair. My primary concern is making clients happy, confident and comfortable. I think that definitely came across as Kristen talked, asking me if I had anything to say. I mustered a quick “I’m just layering away,” while lost in my work. Kristen’s inspiration was definitely to get inside the client’s psyche and as such, she was able to interact with me from the chair differently than any other client I’ve had. In hindsight, this experience not only gave Kristen empathy and understanding she desired, but it enabled me to have for empathy someone sitting there, having a style cut into hair that isn’t theirs.

of these seemed to work for the style Kristen wanted. She seemed to have her mind set on one style and one style only, her style the style she loves, the style others know her by. I found that most synthetics are tied too thin to pull off what she was looking for. She also quickly informed me that synthetic fiber is much hotter than human hair and would not do for her. “So human hair it is,” Kristen decided. From there we tried several caps, some thin some thick, but she kept going back to the same cap. Fast forward to today. Kristen’s hair has grown out (well, as much as

it ever will, she does love it short). We’ve opened floodgates that will never close. Kristen will always be my first choice when it comes to trying new styles, products and techniques. Our partnership is stronger than ever before because she’s allowed me a unique perspective into the psyche of my clients. I don’t have to wonder about something and whether it feels right or performs properly because if I do and I tell Kristen, she’s going to dive in again, ready, willing and able to do what she needs to in order for us to understand and develop the best care solutions for each person who enters our salon. I realize that Kristen is just incredible. Her unselfish demonstration of compassion allowed me to develop an empathy that I hadn’t possessed before. I understand so much more than I had, not only about providing clients with the best possible care, products and alternatives for their individual cases, but about how at the end of the day, when the patients are gone and I’m standing in our salon, ready to go home, that I’ll be leaving with the most caring, generous, courageous woman I’ve ever met.

While I’m able to simulate a client’s natural colors, highlights and root shading to exactly replicate their natural hair, I’m not immune to the issues we face. Looking back, I chuckle about working around the fact that Kristen wears glasses and the hair around the earpieces needed to look normal. This wasn’t always an easy experience. As the weeks progressed, we tried several more wigs and styles: Synthetic machine made, synthetic machine made back with mono top and full hand tied synthetic. None

Ricky Knowles

The Link Issue 4, 2012 31

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Tips & Tricks

Applying Ghost Bond by: Joseph Ellis

Step 1 Clean the scalp with Dual Action Shampoo 2-3 times or until completely free of any adhesive. Apply Dermal Mud to the scalp. Let sit for 5 minutes. Shampoo off with PHL#5 Shampoo.

Applying Ghost Bond To Base

Step 2 Dry scalp completely. Apply No Sweat Scalp Antiperspirant. Dry completely.

Step 3 If using a skin system, first apply a thin coat of Ghost

Bond to the system and place the system to the side.

Applying Ghost Bond To Poly Unit Base

Then proceed to apply 4 thin coats to the scalp. (You will know they are thin coats because by the time you get from the front to the back, the front of the scalp will be dried clear). Upon finishing the 4th coat set a timer for 7 minutes allowing the bond to air cure.

Applying Ghost Bond To Front Scalp

If using on an all lace system, do not apply any adhesive directly to the lace. Apply 4 thin coats to the scalp. When finished applying the last coat set a timer for 7 minutes and let air cure. After the 7th minute you then proceed to attach the system to the scalp. Lining Up Hair Unit

32â&#x20AC;&#x192; The Link Issue 4, 2012â&#x20AC;&#x192;

New Product Spotlight:

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

From the creator of the #1 Doctor Recommended Natural Hair Loss Solution, Revivogen, Dr. Alex Khadavi has developed 2 lines for skin care issues.

Clearogen

Clearogen is the only Anti-DHT Acne Treatment formulated using natural ingredients to block DHT in the pores, regulating oil production, and clearing acne! Beyond clearing surface acne, Clearogen blocks the root cause of acne production breaking the cycle and prevents acne from forming leaving skin smooth and blemish free.

Rejuve MD

RejuveMD Face & Eye Serums are advanced anti-aging treatments that utilizes Bio-identical growth factors to stimulate your skin to look and act younger. These signal cells called Growth Factors directly communicate to your skin cells to increase production of collagen and elastin resulting in tighter, lifted, smoother and more youthful looking skin. For samples and more info. call 877-512-4247 or email Jennifer@Clearogen.com

Belle Madame from European Hair Imports:

Belle Madame hair pieces from high quality synthetic hair are especially designed for thin hair with little volume. These hair pieces can be attached and removed very easily. To order call European Hair Imports at 866-681-4247

The HairMax LaserComb and The Healthy Hair Care Collection from Hairmax

The HairMax LaserComb is the ONLY home use Laser PhotoTherapy Medical Device, FDA Cleared to treat hair loss and stimulate hair growth in men and women. HairMax delivers safe and effective laser light to energize weakened hair follicles, accelerate hair growth rate, reverse the thinning process, increase density, thickness and fullness of hair. Pair it with our new sulfate-free Healthy Hair Care Collection, scientifically formulated to complement the LaserComb treatment. Non Drug Treatment with NO serious side effects. Offer the complete HairMax Hair Growth System to your clients to use in the comfort and convenience of their own homes. www.HairMax.com 1.800.973.4769 *The HairMax LaserComb is indicated to treat Androgenetic Alopecia, and promote hair growth in males who have Norwood Hamilton Classifications of IIa to V and in females who have Ludwig (Savin) I-4, II-1, II-2, or frontal patterns of hair loss and who both have Fitzpatrick Skin Types I to IV. The Link Issue 4, 2012â&#x20AC;&#x192; 33

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Extensions

An Emotional Attachment by: Bobbi Russell

was a young hairdresser when hair extensions came into my life... funny how I talk about it like it is a relationship! That thought is actually quite appropriate because it has been a roller coaster of emotions for me. I can say they have been very good to me and they have also made me cry.

I first learned track weaving, in 1988, from an elderly gentleman named Mr. Cicel. He charged me $500 to watch him put extensions in my best friends hair. I will never forget when he left that day he said, ”Well kid, you have four weeks to practice, then your friend is going to need it done all over again. Good luck!” he snickered and left. For weeks afterwards, I had a mannequin head between my knees and I practiced and practiced. Unlike today, with all the amazing resources that are available to us, I had no one to ask for help. I taught myself how to braid and sew in hair and I became really good at it. I practiced on anyone who would let me tug and pull on their hair. Mega Hair Extensions was the first to introduce me to the world of strand on strand fusion. There was no teacher, no manual, just a hot glue gun, wax sticks and a bad one-page photocopy of how-to instructions. My first hair extension took me ten hours. The bonds I created where the size of my finger and my hands where so burned and blistered that I couldn’t shampoo hair for days. Unfortunately, three weeks later the poor girl had bald spots all over her head. I was devastated! To remove those extensions, we used olive oil and a curling iron. It took as long to get them out as it took to put them in and it made the salon smell like an Italian restaurant. 34 The Link Issue 4, 2012

Within a couple of years I had worked through most of the destructive techniques that I had learned due to lack of understanding and education. As my technique and skill level grew, I began teaching the art of hair extensions to other stylists. Twenty-four years later our industry is exploding with hair extensions and beauty trade shows have a hair booth every six feet. Everyone is claiming to have the best hair and the best technique on the market. However, all hair extensions are not created equal. It’s all about three things: The hair, the attachment and the education! The quality of human hair varies greatly. For years we have struggled with severe matting, stiffness and tangling. When a really good quality hair is used, matting and tangling are no longer an issue. A larger variety of quality choices are now available. They are even making a fiber hair that acts like human hair. It can be washed, blow dried and curled with a hot iron then shampooed. Another contributing factor is how well hair is processed. This is extremely important and there is a big difference in the finished product. When considering fusion attachments, the strength of the bond combined with the gentleness of the product on the natural hair is now available. Higher quality bonds are less likely to shed and loose hair. Twenty years ago, the bonds were of poor quality so we would ask our guests back every 2-3 weeks to get a fill (meaning more hair added) because they would lose so much hair. We would even recommend that they get a carpet rake so that they wouldn’t break their vacuum cleaner. When working with a well-made quality product, this is no longer an issue.

Linking attachments are available for those who prefer not to use adhesive on their hair. I feel that it is a simpler method to learn and the extension hair can be reused. But all linking methods are not the same, so my suggestion to you is to investigate all options before you make a decision. One of the newest methods on the scene in the last couple of years is the tape on method; I actually use this attachment often. There are some really amazing companies offering top-quality products. To reiterate, it is really about the quality of the hair and the strength and performance of the attachment that make the difference. Most importantly, take your training seriously. Take advantage of the many amazing opportunities that are available to you to educate yourself, opportunities that I never had. Do not try to learn how to do this all by yourself. Practice, practice, practice on a mannequin head before you even consider putting hair extensions on a friend who trusts you. Also, take any advanced classes that are offered and broaden your knowledge by learning more than one or two methods of attachments. This will only make you more valuable as a hair additions technician. Remember that hair extensions will only hurt the natural hair if they are not applied correctly. When taken care of properly, and removed correctly, hair extensions are not damaging. Take the extra time to learn to do them right, so few people do. This only hurts those of us who have learned the correct way. Sadly, I fix bad hair extension work all the time and it breaks my heart. That’s why I have always called additional hair “hair crack.” If you do them right the first time your guest will love you and will never be able to live without them. If you do hair extensions wrong, that person will never touch them again nor trust in them again, and will be telling every one of their friends about their horrible experience.

AHLC Academy Class Listings: Your resource for continuing education and accumulating points towards your Master’s Certification. Discounts on class fees may be available to AHLC members. Ask when registering for classes. Di Biase Hair USA 1/13, Farmington Hills, MI SPECIAL ADVANCED TRAINING WORKSHOP HAIR EXTENSIONS FOR HAIR LOSS, For Experienced Extensionists Only, Bring a live model with thinning hair. Attendees may purchase hair at the workshop for 20% off. Please contact Di Biase Hair at 248.489.8900 or Info@DiBiaseHairUSA.com. On Rite 2/10-12, On Rite, Ft. Lauderdale, FL Things are about to get hotter in South Florida as On Rite hosts the 2013 Annual Conference. Start your year off RITE as we present the technical information and business instruction you need to heat up your bottom line and IGNITE YOUR FUTURE! Call 800327-5555 for more information. 2/25, Las Vegas, NV 3/16, Charleston, SC On Rite Women’s Medical Hair Loss One-Day Certification Class Curriculum concentrates on the implementation of solutions for your medically related hair loss client, consultation techniques, business set up and proven methods to capture this market. Contact 800-327-5555 or www.onritedirect.com for more information. 4/14-15, Dallas, TX 5/19-20, Nashville, TN On Rite Women’s Hair Replacement Two-Day Certification Class Curriculum offers an in-depth curriculum with hands-on instruction. Learn from industry leading professionals the perfect type of attachment to resolve any women’s level of hair loss. Contact 800-327-5555 or www.onritedirect.com for more information.

International Hair Goods CyberWorld Annual Conference 3/16-18, Atlanta, GA CyberWorld is an extensive 3-day education and training conference for exclusive Cyberhair, Micro Point Solutions and Private Issue studios. If you are interested in experiencing Cyberhair, call International Hairgoods, 800-328-6182. You must be registered in advance to attend CyberWorld.

Why have ordinary hair when you can have

Extraordinary Hair?

Di Biase Hair USA We have instituted a certification system, currently a two-day course, that is both accessible and affordable to stylists across the country. We are currently scheduling classes in various locations and are actively looking at establishing additional classes in as many areas as possible. If you are interested in hosting a certification class in your area, please contact Di Biase Hair at 248.489.8900 or Info@DiBiaseHairUSA.com. NIU (New Image University) Looking for top-notch, continuous training in the hair loss industry? Classes are ongoing at NIU (New Image University), where you’ll find all you need to succeed at your fingertips. Ranging from technical classes to marketing know–how to sales tips, NIU is the place for hair loss professionals to get educated and trained. Many new class titles have been added in an easyto-follow, fun and engaging format. Ongoing, online – no better way to improve skills and knowledge! For more information, call 800-3594247, visit www.newimagelabs.com or connect with us on Facebook at facebook.com/NewImageUniversity

ahlc.org

100% n at u r a l h a i r e x t e n s i o n s

www.DiBiaseHairUSA.com • 248.489.8900 38455 Hills Tech Drive • Suite 200 • Farmington Hills, MI 48335 USA

Save the Date! 2013 ANNUAL CONFERENCE

MAY 4-6, 2013

Hyatt Regency Pier Sixty-Six

FORT LAUDERDALE Contact Betty Bugden 570.462.1101 • info@ahlc.org

OFFER GOOD UNTIL FEBRUARY 1, 2013 • $100 DEPOSIT REQUIRED