The Link, Issue 9 by The AHLC

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

SPRING • 2014 IN THIS ISSUE: 5 Beauty Industry Gets Greener Chemistry 6 The Science Behind Compulsive Pulling 9 Industry Exclusive: Óscar Urzola, New President, New Image Labs 10 Bald for a Cause

CHALLENGING TECHNOLOGY OR TECHNICALLY CHALLENGED: 14 Social Media Can Help Your Bottom Line 16

Have Your Checked Your ATM Recently?

18 Windows XP is Dead 20 Why Your Web Site Should Be Mobile Friendly 23 Hacker Insurance 24 The Technology of Man-Made Fibers 28 New LLLT Clinical Studies

IN EVERY ISSUE: 12 New Members 30 AHLC Academy 31 Member Spotlight: Keith Zimmerman 34 Product Spotlight

Subscription Information: Subscriptions to The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council are mailed FREE to members of the AHLC within the continental United States. International members are provided digital copies free. Please contact us for additional shipping rates if you are an AHLC member outside the US and wish to receive a printed edition. Non-member subscription price: $60 annually within the continental United States, $85 International. To become a member, renew your membership, or subscribe to The Link as a non-member, please contact the AHLC 855.445.9509 or log on to www.AHLC.org.

The Link Issue 8, 2013 3

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

MESSAGE FROM THE AHLC BOARD by: Betty Bugden, Membership Director and Treasurer It’s countdown time for our annual conference, Upgrade 2014 in Fort Lauderdale, April 26-28. The board of directors is working hard to fulfill our goal of providing educational and networking opportunities to our member studio owners and vendors. To date, we have 16 participating manufacturers and vendors that have committed to educate. Where else can you meet, network and learn from sixteen of the best manufacturers and vendors in the industry, all under one roof? A registration Meet and Greet begins on Saturday at 6pm with appetizers and a cash bar. At 7pm each manufacturer and vendor will be introduced and give a brief description of their company and a review of what they will be teaching. Each manufacturer or vendor will teach a class both on Sunday and Monday, so plan on staying till 4 pm on Monday so you can take advantage of this great education. The opportunity to network with vendors and other members is worth the price of registration alone. On Sunday evening we will have a semi-formal banquet. Last year we danced all night! Hotel rooms are only $129 (register before April 2 and mention the AHLC in order to get the conference rate). Be sure your membership is current so you can get our special member rate for the conference, $399. I hope my phone rings off the receiver! We’d love to see each one of you in April!

Membership Information:

The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council is the official, quarterly publication of the American Hair Loss Council. For information on advertising or contributing to content, please contact us: The American Hair Loss Council 30 South Main, Shenandoah, PA 17976 855.445.9509 or info@ahlc.org

The Link Staff:

Managing Editor: Janine Thornhill Design and Layout: e-zign Design Group, www.e-zign.com Creative Director: Terrell Thornhill

Contributors:

Jeff Pulford, President, Insure Beauty, Salinas, CA Diana Ford, Education Coordinator, Jon Renau, Vista, CA John Rutter, Owner, JR Hair Design, Uniontown, PA Tanisha Foster, Director, Vertical Markets, SalonBooker, New York, NY Elvira Amankwa, CMP, Marketing Manager, New Image Labs, West Palm Beach, FL Jon Fortgang, President, New Hair Technology, New York, NY Leonard Stillman, Director of Professional Services, Lexington International, Boca Raton, FL Myra Irizarry, Director of Government Affairs, Professional Beauty Association, Scottsdale, AZ Mitch Comstock, Owner, Legendary Computers, Franklin, TN Dr. Renae Reinardy, Licensed Psychologist, Lakeside Center for Behavioral Change, Fargo, ND Paul Albee, Creative Director, A.T.Services, Inc., Syracuse, NY

AHLC Board of Directors:

For more information call toll-free 855.445.9509 or visit www.ahlc.org.

For a membership form visit www.ahlc.org or email info@ahlc.org We’ve got a new toll-free phone number. Please make a note of it.

855.445.9509 ...just don’t everyone call all-at-once.

Peggy Thornhill, President Marsha Scott, Vice President Susan Kettering, Executive Director Betty Ann Bugden, Treasurer/Membership Director René Meier, Board Member Joseph Ellis, Board Member

The opinions expressed in The Link, The Voice of the American Hair Loss Council are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the views of the American Hair Loss Council. The advertisements in The Link do not necessarily reflect the beliefs, opinions or attitudes of the AHLC and does not imply product or service endorsement. The American Hair Loss Council © All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission is prohibited. Published by e-zign Design Group. www.e-zign.com

4 The Link Issue 7 2013

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Beauty industry gets greener chemistry

California implements regulations to reduce dangerous chemicals by: Myra Irizarry, Director of Government Affairs for the Professional Beauty Association (PBA)

alifornia’s Safer Consumer Products (SCP) Regulations took effect in October, 2013, and are set to be phased in over the next several years to coordinate with various requirements. The new regulations, originally signed into law in 2008 as part of what is commonly known as the California Green Chemistry Initiative, will undoubtedly affect not only manufacturers in California, but any beauty professional distributing, selling and importing products into that state.

Crafted by the Department of Toxic Substance Control (DTSC) following extensive public input, the SCP program aims to reduce toxic chemicals in consumer products, create business opportunities in the emerging safer consumer products economy, and reduce the burden on consumers and small businesses concerned about what is being used in the products they buy and sell. To accomplish these goals, the SCP program takes a preventive approach to keeping dangerous chemicals out of everyday products to promote consumer confidence. To be successful, the program relies on reports submitted by responsible entities, such as manufacturers of consumer goods, to inform on and increase the use of safer chemicals in products, homes, schools and workplaces. For industry stakeholders, of which the beauty industry has been identified by the DTSC, the regulatory program provides a more predictable process for ensuring product safety, as well as offers a competitive advantage for innovators who see an opportunity in the growing market for toxic-free and toxic-reduced products.

The New Process Now that the regulations have taken effect, the DTSC is in development of a list of chemicals that are candidates for elimination based on a variety of hazardous traits determined by authoritative scientific organizations and their history of exposure. A group of product types, known as “priority products”, containing at least one of the identified chemicals, is currently in development: Up to five of these priority products will be selected by April 2014. Each priority product must go through a review process, including a public comment period that could take up to a year, giving businesses time to adjust. Under the regulations, manufacturers of the listed priority products will be required to conduct an “alternative analysis” to determine if a safer, nontoxic ingredient is suitable for substitution. If no other ingredient is feasible, the DTSC has the ability to apply one of several regulatory responses that would reduce the risk or phase out the chemical.

What It Means Green Chemistry legislation is unique in regards to its potential consequences. Manufacturers, whether doing business within California or from another state, that make products that will be sold in the state of California are responsible for knowing if their product contains a chemical on the priority list of chemicals. If they have a product with a priority chemical it is their responsibility to find a safe alternative to that chemical and reformulate that specific product. If the manufacturer does not follow the

prescribed steps, the consequences not only impact them but can potentially impact the distributor that is providing the product to the retailer. If the retailer or salon has products on the shelves that has not been reformulated with the safer alternative chemical then they cannot sell that product. From manufacturer to retailer, this legislation impacts everyone involved with the product. As the nation’s leading beauty industry trade organization and a member of the Safe Cosmetics Alliance, the Professional Beauty Association supports legislation and regulations based on sound science and policies that enhance consumer safety and confidence. For more resources and information about California’s Safer Consumer Products Regulations, as well as other legislation with potential to affect the beauty industry, visit www.probeauty.org/advocacy.

PBA has partnered with the California Department of Toxic Substance Control to produce a free webinar covering the basics of the Safer Consumer Products Regulations. “Safer Consumer Products Program | Are You Ready?” featuring Andre Algazi of the Department of Toxic Substance Control covers the Candidate Chemicals list and how it was developed; requirements that will apply to a manufacturer or responsible entity whose product is designated as a Priority Product with a Chemical of Concern; the Alternatives Analysis process; how regulatory responses will be identified and implemented; and, proactive steps a manufacturer can take as the regulations are implemented. Watch the complimentary webinar on-demand at www.probeauty.org/eduonline. The Link Issue 9, Spring, 2014 5

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

The science behind compulsive pulling A treatable, medical condition

by: Dr. Renae Reinardy, Licensed Psychologist, Lakeside Center for Behavioral Change

cross all cultures the appearance of hair holds much associated meaning. In many societies long hair is associated with wealth, power, health, fertility, sexuality and youthfulness. Hair has had special significance in social revolution, counterculture and religious devotion. Just mentioning the names of Elvis Presley, The Beatles, Bob Marley, Marilyn Monroe, Jennifer Aniston, Fabio Lanzoni, Halle Berry and Justin Bieber demonstrate the powerful influence of hair. Many believe that the appearance of hair is just as important to us as body shape in how we evaluate ourselves and the self we present to the world. When people are satisfied with their hair, they are more likely to be satisfied with their appearance. However when people experience hair loss, it can rock the views they hold of themselves and how they believe other people perceive them. Hair loss in any of its forms is not easy. People struggling with trichotillomania (TTM) experience a unique form of hair loss where they pull the hair out themselves. This behavior can create much shame, anger toward self and feelings of being out of control. It can be devastating to watch one’s hair get thinner and thinner, knowing that they are pulling it out but are unable to stop. Many people with TTM feel very alone and believe that others would view them to be “crazy” or “weird” if they shared their secret. These concepts cause people to turn inward and try to do the best they can on their own. For others, they experience depression, suicidal thoughts and addiction as ways to cope with the pain associated with their hair loss. Compulsive hair pulling is a medical condition that affects one in 50 people. That is around 3-9 million Americans. 6 The Link Issue 9, Spring, 2014

It impacts people of all ages, ethnicities, genders and socio-economic backgrounds. The behavior involves pulling out hair on the scalp, eyelashes, eyebrows, pubic area, legs or arms. In men this can also include pulling hair from the beard or chest. The severity of the disorder occurs on a continuum. Some people only pull from one small and specific area, while others will pull wherever they have hair. As hair replacement specialists, it is also important to know that some clients may pull from their hair system, replacement or areas around the system. This can be a challenging experience for the client, and also for you. Pulling can be focused (aware) or unfocused (without awareness). Most people experience both, and will describe going into a “trich-trance” where long periods of time go by, sometimes hours which are spent pulling. Typically people pull one hair at a time and will often play with the hair or hair root after pulling. While there are many social and emotional consequences of hair pulling and hair loss, trich can become life threatening when people ingest the hair. This can cause a trichobezoar (hair ball), which often requires medical attention to be removed. Some people will also ingest string or other hair-like items. Because most people with trichotillomania are very high functioning, they become secretive about these behaviors. People pull their hair for many different reasons. Trichotillomania is a neuro-biological disorder that is often influenced by emotional stress, hormones, environmental factors, diet and extra sensory needs. Trich often begins in puberty, but can start as early as infancy or develop in late adulthood. It

is a female dominant condition in adulthood, but is thought to be about equal in boys and girls. The condition often has a waxing and waning course that tends to be chronic without treatment. For many years trichotillomania was not well understood and was considered to be a behavior of self-mutilation. Researchers and treatment providers have learned much more about hair pulling in recent years and TTM is now considered to be a Body Focused Repetitive Behavior (BFRB). Compulsive hair pulling is grouped with other behaviors such as skin picking, nail biting and teeth grinding. Trichotillomania is treatable. In order to effectively treat TTM, it is important to understand the function behind the hair pulling in order to replace it with other strategies. A cognitive behavioral therapist works with people to develop a comprehensive treatment plan to get trich under control. This includes looking at the triggers just prior to pulling, the details of how people, and what they do post pulling. I encourage my clients to not think of trichotillomania as the enemy, but rather to view pulling urges similar to a growling stomach. Their body is trying to tell them something. It is common for pulling urges to follow some type of emotional trigger (i.e. stress, boredom, frustration). It can also be the result of not enough sensory input. Many children and adults spend hours each day sitting at a desk and then come home to sit and watch television, play video games or surf the Internet. Many people require more sensory input than they are getting. Trichotillomania is efficient in getting maximum sensory input by using the parts of the body that are most sensitive (see

The Link The Voice of the AHLC Homunculus diagram). People often play with the hair post-pulling by rubbing it between their fingers, or across their lips or tongue. In treatment, one area of focus may be on getting sensory input through exercise, yoga, shower scrubs and fiddle toys. This will help keep the sensory system more satisfied. It is like “filling up” on healthy sensory options, which then makes TTM urges less intense or may even prevent them. It is similar to filling up on chicken and broccoli, which then makes it easier to say no to the chocolate cake. While we are on the topic of food, it has been observed in animal studies of mice genetically predisposed to TTM that diets high in sugar and carbohydrates may also play a role in developing and maintaining this condition. And yes, animals also develop “grooming disorders” which result in fur, hair and feather plucking behavior. There is research being done to look at the impact of diet, hormones, genetics and stress in the development of TTM. In treatment, it is believed that adequate sleep, exercise and nutrition lead to a more balance person. As people are feeling better, the function of trich to “fix things” in the body decreases. Perfectionism is another tendency often seen in trichotillomania. Hairs that are different in some way (i.e. darker, lighter, thinner, thicker, split ends) become the target of hair pulling. While seeking these hairs, other hairs are often pulled as well. Symmetry can be another reason for pulling. Once a few hairs get pulled from one side, an equal amount need to pulled from the other. When perfectionism is what is fueling the pulling, therapists work with clients on a strategy called exposure to help them develop more tolerance for different hairs. Cognitive restructuring, which involves identifying, challenging and replacing unhelpful thoughts, is also quite useful. When treating trich, a therapist always needs to consider the whole person and their specific reasons for pulling. Some people with TTM also find benefit in medication, supplements, support groups, or family sessions.

No two people are exactly alike, so every treatment plan needs to be tailored to that individual. Even though treatment has improved for treating this condition, there are still not enough knowledgeable treatment providers available. With more publications on compulsive hair pulling, more people realize they are not alone, but may still feel too embarrassed to talk to anyone about their hair pulling behavior. Many people with trichotillomania have never had a professional hair cut or avoid other self-care appointments because they are afraid of sharing this aspect of themselves.

Homunculus Diagram

A homunculus is a sensory map of your body, so it looks like an oddly proportioned human. It represents each part of the body, but in proportion to its number of sensory neural connections and not its actual size. The layout of the sensory neural connections throughout your body determines the level of sensitivity each area of your body has, so the hands on a sensory homunculus are its largest body parts, exaggerated to an almost comical degree, while the arms are quite skinny. The homunculus, then, gives a vivid picture of where our sensory system gets the most bang for its buck. As people in the hair replacement industry, you likely encounter trichotillomania more than you may know. It is not uncommon for clients with

trichotillomania to come up with creative excuses for hair loss because they have never told another person about their behavior. Sometimes even spouses and family members do not know about the condition due to great measures people with trich take to disguise missing hair. Hair system clients with TTM who struggle with being open about their condition may avoid the studio if they are pulling from the hair system or from other areas on their scalp. There are things you can do to help people in the community and clients that you already have who are living with this condition. Your awareness, sensitivity and compassion can be very healing. As hair loss specialist, you also have the unique talent of helping people regain hair that has been lost sometimes for years in a short amount of time. New hair can help people get a boost of self confidence, self acceptance and sense of beauty which allows them a little more emotional space to deal with other things in their life. Provide articles and brochures on trichotillomania in your studio and include hair pulling on your promotional materials lets people in the community know that you are there for them. Demonstrate sensitivity by asking a client about the level of privacy they may want and allow time for trust to develop in discussing trichotillomania. These are factors that help a client feel more comfortable sharing their experience. Try to be inviting, but not pushy in discussing this condition. It is also good to avoid comments like, “just stop” or “you would be so pretty if…” These are not motivating, and just tend to make people feel worse about themselves, which in turn will increase urges to pull. A great step in developing your professional knowledge and referrals is to join the Trichotillomania Learning Center’s (TLC) referral list for cosmetologist/ hair loss specialists. TLC is a wonderful resource and information can be found at www.trich.org. Hair loss specialists help people feel and look good on their path toward recovery. Thank you for the life changing services that you offer! The Link Issue 9, Spring, 2014 7

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Industry exclusive Meet Óscar Urzola, newly-appointed President of New Image Labs

Óscar Urzola, President, New Image Labs

n January 2014, Óscar Urzola was appointed President of New Image Labs Corporation. For those who have known Óscar for any length of time, this comes as no surprise. Many of his friends in the industry call him ‘hair fanatic’ due to his vibrant personality and his professional background. Those who know him agree that Óscar stands for a rare combination of many qualities: He is a great people person, has some of the deepest product knowledge you can find in the global hair replacement industry and is absolutely honest in his dealings. Born to Colombian immigrants, his family settled in Manchester, CT. Eventually his family moved to Jupiter, FL. It was there that Óscar was introduced to New Image at the age

of 24. He actually dropped off a friend for an interview for a warehouse/ distribution position and was hired instead of his friend by the late Randy Martin.

expert. Whether in the factories in China, the major industry players in South America and the Middle East or the hair replacement icons in Europe Óscar is no stranger to any of them.

Many of Óscar’s skills are selftaught and he has always relied on his resourcefulness and sound judgment. In the 25 years Óscar has been with New Image, he has moved up the ranks with hard work and perseverance. He has worked in nearly every department within the company from dispatching to sales. This has afforded him intricate knowledge of internal processes in the hair replacement business. Óscar has traveled extensively to all parts of the world and cemented his reputation as a global hair replacement educator and design

For Óscar, the American dream has come true, but not without hard work, tears and sweat. Those who know Óscar will agree that he is ready at any time to roll up his sleeves and get down into the trenches to get the job done. He knows what it is to overcome obstacles and understands the challenges of running a business in today’s tough environment. Óscar is uniquely positioned to lead New Image. He has been a mover and shaker and will use his strengths to move New Image into the future. The Link Issue 9, Spring, 2014 9

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Bald for a cause

Many donate their hair, but few choose to go to this length

by: Diana Ford, Education Coordinator, Jon Renau

having my head and eliminating its unruly curls is something I have considered since I was a child. I have grown to embrace, even love, my curly hair and wear it in its natural wash-and-go state, but my early school photos were the butt of many classmates’ jokes. I did not grown up in a beauty parlor. I was a tomboy while growing up, riding horses and playing soccer. I was 16 when I went to my first salon appointment, a gift from my mum as an attempt to calm my curly frizz. So when I entered the beauty industry professionally at the age of 17, my family and friends were surprised. The last 10 years I have been a licensed cosmetologist and have spent a lot of time feeding the vanity of others. I have had clients who would literally sacrifice grocery money in order to pay for their roots to be touched up. I quickly realized how much hair and outer appearances means to so many of us.

About four years ago, I stepped away from working behind the chair and now proudly work with one of the largest and most successful alternative hair manufacturers in the world. As Education Coordinator, I provide studio owners with instruction and training on alternative hair. I feel so lucky to have the opportunity to help our clients help their clients feel better about themselves. I meet many people every day who are dealing with hair loss in some way and it is disheartening to see them struggle. I often leave a mastectomy boutique or hair replacement center with mixed emotions: Great feelings about what I do, tinged with sadness over the fact that these people are wounded by their hair loss. Many of our clients are undergoing medical treatments and have experienced a disease or life trauma that causes their hair loss. Looking and feeling like themselves 10 The Link Issue 9, Spring, 2014

again is a powerful tonic for their overall health and well-being. Research has shown that patients who believe their outsides look good tend also to feel better inside. In May of 2013, I got to know Regina Villemure, the founder of Children With Hair Loss (CWHL). This non-profit organization supplies human hair wigs and care kits to children experiencing medical hair loss. They receive one set annually at no cost. During the 2013 American Hair Loss Council conference, I had the opportunity to meet with Regina and her team and learn about their selfless acts of good will. They truly are angels to many children and their families. I can remember being teased in school for my “fuzzy, crazy” hair, I couldn’t imagine being

the only one in the room without any hair. I left the conference knowing that I wanted to help in some way. I spent many months thinking about how I could raise funds for CWHL and create awareness about what they do. I finally decided to offer my hair as a donation and to keep my head shaved until I reach a fundraising goal of $5,000. I initially felt really bold about my decision but as the days went by I started to worry that shaving my hair off would be a disaster! I started to worry about what my family, my boyfriend, friends and the public would think. I worryied my boyfriend wouldn’t find me attractive anymore. Maybe people will think I’m ill? I kept thinking about how my hair had become my identity, as it is for so many others, and what I would do without it?

The Link The Voice of the AHLC In October 2013, I was honored and privileged to attend the Children With Hair Loss Annual Charity Ball in Michigan. CWHL hosted over 350 supporters and recipients. There were many children who are recipients of wigs along with their families, multiple Miss America contestants and supporters, even a group from a yacht club in Toledo, OH whose male members have all shaved their heads and donated. I was surrounded by so many gracious, giving people and hearing all their stories really put my mind at ease and made me excited about my journey. I realized that it wasn’t about how I was going to feel after shaving my head, but it’s about how a little girl or boy would feel after putting on a wig and feeling normal for the first time. The perspective I gained from this event will stay with me forever and the strength and courage I found is immeasurable. I also learned how difficult it is to get support for your bald child, and how CWHL is the only organization who truly gives without expectation. The big day finally arrived. On December 11, 2013, surrounded by my

coworkers and friends, I donated my hair to Children With Hair Loss and started my fundraiser through Crowdrise.com, called “Grow My Fro.” As each curl fell to the floor, I felt I was turning a page. There’s something that changes within you when you give in an act of selflessness. It did take some time to adjust; the first shock was stepping outside and feeling the air on my head. Seeing my shadow for the first time sans fro was hilarious! But I was really shocked by the fact that I love being bald! I enjoy being able to change my look every day if I choose. Some days I go bald, some days I sport a brunette bob or long flowing layers…all the hair styles I wished I could have had back in school. This is something I’ve learned to be a little “silver lining” for many women experiencing unintentional hair loss. I’ve also started to meet people who have donated their hair as well. They may have a friend, sister, aunt or mother who is bald and hearing their stories has given me a sense of pride in what I’ve done. Being able to embrace this journey and experience what many people deal with every day, helps me better identify with the people I serve.

As I continue my fundraising, I’m asked, “Will you ever grow your fro back?” At this point, I can’t really say for sure. I feel so blessed to have the option at all, however supporting my fellow “baldies” is so fulfilling. I consider the possibility of having to lose my hair against my will, like so many face every day. I know it’s a totally different experience for them. I’m thankful to have done this at a time in my life when I am confident in myself, in-turn while helping others feel the same. I am proud to have made the choice to help support others who do not have the choice. I am enjoying learning about myself and life in regards to self-acceptance, which is crucial for happiness and growth. I am grateful to help shine some light on a situation that can be devastating. I am learning that even though my career is in the beauty industry, that beauty really comes from a place of acceptance and gratitude. If we have to wear certain clothes, makeup, even wigs to help us feel better about ourselves, that’s great! But no matter what we do to our outsides, It truly is what’s on the inside that counts. No matter how you look, be thankful, love it, and ROCK IT!

The Link Issue 9, Spring, 2014 11

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Please welcome our new and renewing members James Ellison JM’ s Hair Loss Clinic, Easley, SC James has been in the same location for forty years providing services for those with various hair loss conditions, such as male pattern baldness, alopecia, chemotherapy patients and accident victims. Most of our hair replacement process is done with a custom made hairpiece that allows the individual to look and live like they never lost hair. Our process includes making a mold of the clients head, taking hair samples for proper color and texture and having the hair replacement custom made to exact specifications allowing us to create a natural appearance. The methods of attachment used depend upon the client’s lifestyle and the amount of remaining hair to support other types of hair systems. Steven C. Jones Cavalier Hair Clinic, Godfrey, IL Mr. Jones has been in the hair replacement industry for 46 years. His first position in hair replacement was at the Mineral Springs Hotel Barber Shop in Alton, IL. While working there he continued his vocational education in Chicago under the well-known David Hansen. He continues to broaden his education while helping people who suffer from hair loss from surrounding communities as well as across the US. Steven competed in various state hair styling contests in Illinois, Missouri, Iowa and Indiana. He also competed and was captain of a team of four stylists in the US Olympics of Hair Styling. He won first place in a hair replacement hair cutting competition in Las Vegas, NV. In 1999 Mr. Jones won first place in the individual New Image International Competition for hair replacement. Steven continues to pursue his love of non-surgical hair replacement. Sharon D. Johnson Studio 2 Hair Additions, Memphis, TN Sharon and Travis Johnson have owned Studio 2 for 18 years. Travis retired after 38 years in the business and Sharon took sole ownership of Studio 2 in November of 2013. Sharon has a degree in cosmetology and additional degrees in marketing and fashion merchandising which have helped her in this ever-changing business. Word of mouth advertising is what her business thrives on. It is driven by a great network of salon and medical professionals who refer their clients and patients as well as her fiercely loyal customers who spread the word to others for her. She looks forward to her renewed membership with such an elite group and says that staying current is a must. She looks forward to learning and sharing ideas with this group.

Jonalee Schmidt HRJ Hair Solutions, Lima, OH Jonalee Schmidt is a certified hair restoration consultant, cosmetologist and owner (with her husband) of Jonalee’s “The Image Center,” HRJ Hair Solutions, and The Ritz (breast prosthetic and lingerie store). She is an accomplished educator and has lectured and taught for the American Cancer Society (where she has received the state Sunshine Award), cosmetology schools, prominent hair replacement companies and hospitals. Jonalee has represented the hair replacement industry on TV and radio. Mrs. Schmidt was instrumental in developing the Look Good, Feel Better Program in Ohio. She and her husband, Bob, have received the Entrepreneur of the Year award from the Lima, Ohio Chamber of Commerce. Her goal is to touch the lives of people and give them back dignity and self-esteem.

Euro Hair Imports, Inc. is proud to be the approved re-seller of Gisela-Mayer designer wigs and hair pieces exclusive to the US market. With over seven years of experience re-selling the Gisela-Mayer line, Richard N. Kaufman has proven his ability to successfully cross over a highly revered European wig line to a discriminating U.S market. 617-620-6274 Follea® provides exceptional European hair. Whether it’s total hair loss, covering patches, or just thinning, Follea has the perfect hair for you. We are known worldwide for the quality and consistency of our next generation wigs made from Nature’s Most Beautiful Hair. True European hair movement and quality is accompanied by supreme comfort and secure fit. For women with thinning or fine hair, Follea Topette natural hairpieces are designed to add hair coverage, volume, and length to restore a full head of hair to those who feel they don’t have enough hair density. For total hair loss, our famous next generation Gripper wigs are “beautifully secure” and require no tape or glue. Ponytails and updo’s are a breeze. We also specialize in children’s sizes with the confidence-building Gripper Petite. There is only one Follea. 888 4 FOLLEA (888-436-5532) www.follea.com

To become a member or renew contact Betty Ann Bugden, Membership Director, 570-462-1101 or log on to AHLC.org. 12 The Link Issue 9, Spring, 2014

FIRST IMPRESSIONS ARE EVERYTHING It’s all about the

Meet HairUWear at the AHLC Conference. Call 888-480-5377 to schedule an appointment.

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The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Social media can help your bottom line

And increase your client base in the process

by: John Rutter, Owner JR Hair Design, Uniontown, PA

ow do we get traffic to our websites and ultimately more clients through our doors? Social Media and Blogs are an excellent way to create awareness about your company. The benefits of social marketing are numerous. Hair replacement studio owners often rely on intuition to make business decisions. While intuition is important, it probably won’t provide you with all the facts you need to achieve social media marketing results. This information helps in defining social marketing goals and to develop a plan to achieve them

Marketing is the process of creating, delivering, communicating and exchanging offers that have value for our potential clients. Content marketing is less about promotion and more about helping potential clients make informed buying decisions. Getting new clients is never easy. Service is invisible; it’s intangible and immeasurable. How then do we sell something that is invisible? It all begins with content marketing, i.e., Social media, and it’s everywhere. Whether it’s Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, Pintrest, Flickr, Google+ or any other form of social media, we simply can’t escape it. These are all great ways for us to get our business message out into the world without costing a fortune. Our marketing efforts should first create interest, then generate leads and finally turn leads into clients.

Be Consistent Stay consistent with your social media message, but not repetitive. 14 The Link Issue 9, Spring, 2014

Visitors to your various social media pages don’t want to get bored. However, it can be difficult finding fresh material consistent with your message and brand but it certainly pays off. It’s always a good idea to use pictures and videos in your posts. These can create feelings and emotion in your readers and, in turn, create “likes” and “shares”. Mix your post and tweets with general information about the industry, public interest geared toward the hair replacement industry as well as information about your company specifically. Everyone loves before and after pictures, but they can get redundant without fresh content.

Someone ‘liking’ a post doesn’t always spell success. Remember, we want to target our posts to create motivated buyers. Even if people “like” our posts and never become a client it doesn’t mean our efforts are in vain. Our posts will show followers and friends how we do business, which is a great branding tool. Social media can show your likers and followers that you care about the quality and results of your services. Using social media a great way for your company to hit many different demographics at once while

simultaneously positioning your company as a leader in the industry. Your company can now be the go-to company in your area when a client or someone they know has a hair replacement need. Potential clients are much more likely to respond positively to offers if they have seen your company using social media.

Blog? What’s a Blog? Web logs, or blogs for short is an excellent way to connect to clients and future clients as well. Blogging offers a way to communicate expertise without ever actually meeting with anyone in person. Blogging allows the writer to show newest products and services without having to update an entire website. With every new blog post new content is made available to search engines. In addition, each new blog is new content that can be added to social media and shared by friends and followers. When blogging, its important to keep content straight and to the point. Use pictures and video to keep visitor engaged. Make sure to include a link to your website so readers are directed to your website. There are many different blogging platforms that you can use. Among them are Google, Yahoo and, my favorite, Wordpress. Try different ones until you find one that works for you. At my salons we have been working with different ways to use “call to action” buttons in our posts. A call to action is a form that a visitor fills out in order to receive a discount or free information. The visitor gets a free offer and we have a new sales lead.

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Buying Decisions Over 90% of all buying decisions begin with an online search. Having a good website is one thing, but an approachable social media campaign is icing on the cake. Marketing should solve problems, answer questions, and fulfill needs. With the power of social media, you can stir emotion and inspiration as well as educate. Encourage your readers and visitors to engage and share your information and your marketing efforts will reach an even broader audience. Like most people running a small business, it’s difficult enough to find time in a day to get your work done let alone launch and manage a social media campaign. This information can help you jump start or boost your marketing efforts, increase your exposure and get more people in your studios.

So, now what? Here are some tools that can help you save precious time with your marketing. Hoot suite: This tool allows the user to

manage multiple social media channels through one dashboard. It’s a great tool if you have multiple people posting to social media channels. www.hootsuite.com Crowdbooster: Lets you manage social media profiles as well as providing suggestions on how to improve your engagement and interaction. www.crowdbooster.com Buffer: This tool allows you to schedule tweets in advance. www.bufferapp.com

Google Alerts: Not strictly a social media

tool, but a great way to track mentions of your name, company name and keeps track of uses of your name in cyberspace. www.google.com/alerts Vocus: This software coordinates email, landing pages, news releases and other activities so you can deliver results with one integrated solution. It also helps to get your prospect’s information in order to start targeting those prospects. It can also help you discover what people like about your page. Vocus even has a consulting service to help you understand what your results are and what they mean to your company. www.vocus.com The Link Issue 9, Spring, 2014 15

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Have you checked your ATM recently? By Tanisha Foster, Director, Veriical Markets, SalonBooker

Tanisha Foster brings more than a decade of experience in the beauty industry to the SalonBooker team, including an extensive background in salon operations, luxury brand management and customer experience. Prior to joining SalonBooker, Foster spent four years at P&G-Frederic Fekkai training salon managers to run seven of the highest performing salons in the country. She also held executive positions at leading companies including L’Oreal and Limited Brands.

How to better manage your Attention Time & Money

’m not referring to the one attached to your bank account. Instead, I invite you to take a few minutes to evaluate how you’re using your attention, time, and money (ATM) when it comes to running your business. Effectively managing your

ATM can increase the overall success and profitability of your salon. This entails checking in on where you’re focusing your efforts and implementing the right strategies to always keep your ATM in balance.

THE LAWS OF

ATTENTION

Like money, attention is a limited resource.

BETTER MANAGE YOUR ATTENTION !

We have only a limited amount to spend. As a salon owner, multitasking in a high-volume atmosphere combined with employee management and client interactions can be challenging.

You can easily be pulled in different directions and distracted from the tasks that matter most. A lack of focus can be fatal to the longevity of any business, so always remember to invest your attention on things with the highest returns.

Pareto’s 80/20 rule is helpful here. This rule says that 20% of your focus and time should give 80% of your results. This also applies to the time spent in the office versus the time you devote to being on the floor, engaging clients, and managing staff. Ideally, an effective manager spends 20% of their time in their office and the other 80% on the floor (where it matters most). 16 The Link Issue 9, Spring, 2014

Keep organized. Plan as much of your week in advance by scheduling routine times to place orders, conduct one-on-one meetings, and other important tasks. Focus on employee productivity. Use a salon software system to measure employee performance. Acknowledge those who meet or exceed the performance standard. Coach and create performance plans for underperforming employees. Talk to clients to gain real insight into improving your salon operations. Ever wish that you could pick a client’s brain after a service? Having a system in place that sends surveys and analyzes feedback makes it easy to implement new ideas.

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THE LAWS OF

TIME

Time is money.

Every appointment spot on your calendar is equivalent to a dollar amount, so don’t settle for slow times with open chairs. It’s worth your attention to make sure you’re not letting any time go wasted. It’s better to be proactive than reactive. Take the time to plan ahead and strategize how to maximize not just the time on your appointment book, but also the time you and your staff spend keeping the salon up and running. Never forget that time wasted is money wasted. Using your staff’s time effectively has a direct impact on the money in your bank at the end of the week.

THE LAWS OF

MONEY

Money doesn’t grow on trees. Nor does it simply appear out of thin air. Making money takes time, effort, and lots of proper planning. Managing money has it’s own set of rules. Keeping records of budgets, invoices, savings, and borrowings all help to develop consciousness about what you earn, spend, and save. These items are rules of thumb to know where you are in the grand scheme of things. Money can be spent or invested. Having the proper tools to identify your return on investment (ROI) will help pinpoint if you’re throwing away your hard earned cash or making sound investments into your salon.

BETTER MANAGE YOUR TIME Set up your appointment book in advance. Most salon systems can update employee schedules and book appointments at least 12 months out. By blocking off holidays and vacation times, you can give clients advanced notice about available appointments. This is especially helpful for bridal and special occasion bookings. Imagine what you could do for your business if you had a few extra hours to react to last-minute cancellations or low inventory needed to perform services. When you can identify empty appointment times in advance, you can broadcast them through your marketing channels to invite clients to book and redeem a special offer. Customize your service times to each stylists’ needs. This is crucial to effectively running your salon. Overbooking and underbooking services can lead to wasted time and disgruntled clients. Ensuring that each employee is allocated the appropriate time need for each service will prevent this and make sure your schedule is always efficient and in harmony. It’ll also optimize the quality and consistency of your services.

BETTER MANAGE YOUR MONEY Forecasting is a necessity in driving the focus of your employees and your business. Forecasting hours booked per chair or employee and then and projecting revenue generated from those totals provides valuable insight into the potential of your business. It also helps you shape the financial decisions you’ll make for your salon’s future. For example, hiring staff, ordering products, and even opening new locations are all decisions that can be improved with the data from your forecasts. . Budgeting is every business owner’s playbook to ensuring the profitability of their salon. Without a budget and the discipline to stick to it, it’s very easy to find yourself running into the red. Knowing your salon and having the correct data at your fingertips makes it easier to control costs, maximize profits, and monitor discrepancies. For instance, inventory spending can be a bottomless pit if not tightly controlled or if you don’t correlate service sales with product usage. Often times, products go missing or there’s an unacceptable amount of usage not tied into sales figures. Cost and sales analyses allow you to take action to minimize waste and inventory shrinkage when needed. The Link Issue 9, Spring, 2014 17

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Windows XP is dead Five reasons to upgrade if you’re still using it

by: Mitch Comstock, Owner, Legendary Computers, Franklin, TN

indows XP was first released in October 2001 and it went on to become the most popular desktop Operating System that we’ve ever seen. As recently as August 2012 it was still on more than half of the computers in mainstream use. Even today it is on over 30% of the systems in use. So how can I lead with the line XP is dead? Very simple, it is on its very last legs and come April 8th, 2014 it will breathe its very last. That is the date that Microsoft has set as its final end of support (EOS) date. That means there will be no more security patches or updates after this date.

modern websites. This is only going to get worse after EOS occurs. Afterwards, you may be able to “get on” the Internet, but you won’t be able to do much when you get there. If you use other browsers you will find yourself in similar situations quickly. Google Chrome announced that they would end support for Windows XP in April of 2015.

Anti-Virus Software Issues While you may be able to keep your existing anti-virus software, they release new versions every year and the new versions usually protect you from

This means that 30% of the computers in use today will be upgraded, replaced or become a hacker’s playground within the next six months. I’ve included a list of the top reasons to replace your Windows XP computer very soon.

Internet Browser Issues The highest version of Internet Explorer that is compatible with Windows XP is Internet Explorer 8. There will be no future releases of later versions of Internet Explorer that are compatible with Windows XP. Internet Explorer 8 is not compatible with many 18 The Link Issue 9, Spring, 2014

Hardware Issues Most systems that are running Windows XP have fairly old hardware and performance wise there would be a significant boost from getting better newer processors, more RAM and a newer hard drive as well as the software issues mentioned above.

Windows XP End of Support (EOS) This means the end of windows updates and security patches. This date is April 8, 2014. All Windows XP computers should be replaced or have their operating system upgraded by this date.

support with a newer operating system, you might not want to change. Unless you are a larger sized company and willing to pay for “special circumstance” updates, you will never see another update for Windows XP. But if you don’t connect it to the Internet, (since you can’t barely, with the browser choices available) and you had software that is too expensive to replace that operates mission critical functions. You might stay with XP. If this is the case I think you would benefit greatly from looking at upgrade options now, before it’s too late.

different types of newly discovered threats. You will have a great struggle finding compatible Windows XP supported software after 2014 releases.

Other Software Issues New software typically doesn’t work with 12-year-old operating systems. Soon you won’t be able to find any software to install on XP. This is also the only reason to stay with Windows XP. If you have software that is no longer being made that is critical to your line-of-business and you can’t get

If you are unsure of what to do to make sure your transition from Windows XP to your next computer is smooth. Contact a local system provider and start your conversation about upgrading today. You won’t be sorry that you didn’t wait until after the last minute to do so.

Mitch Comstock is the father of four boys, husband of one wife and an entrepreneur. He is a technologically gifted communicator, meaning he knows stuff and can explain it to normal people. In 2005 he founded Legendary Computers a computer sales and service company in Franklin, Tennessee.

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AND MORE TO BE ANNOUNCED SOON

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Why your web site should be mobile friendly And why it matters to your customers

by: Paul Albee, Creative Director, A.T. Services, Inc.

few weeks ago, the owner of a highly respected and successful hair replacement studio called me. She was concerned about her website. Although it had been created for her only about three or four years ago, and it looked fine on her computers in the office and at home, a woman who had come in for an initial consultation the previous day had told her that she considered not coming in at all. The issue for this potential new client was that she got lost on her way to her appointment and tried to pull up the studio’s website on her smart phone to get directions. When the website finally came up, she said, it was so tiny that it was virtually unreadable. Desperate to make her appointment (she was starting chemotherapy in a couple of weeks), she instead called directory assistance, called the studio and got directions from the receptionist. (As it turned out, she was only about seven blocks away).

“If she hadn’t already been on her way to see me, I doubt she would have come in at all,” the owner told me. “Sales leads are hard enough to come by these days, as it is. How many more potential clients am I loosing?” Compounding the issue, this studio has some serious competition in town, including one of those “club” places about 20 minutes away.

Being Mobile Friendly: The Key to Turning Visitors into Customers You have only to sit in food court at the local mall for ten minutes to confirm what you already knew: Smartphones are ubiquitous across all age groups. Smartphone usage by adults has literally exploded in recent years. According 20 The Link Issue 9, Spring, 2014

to a 2013 survey conducted by the Pew Research Centers, 55% of all American adults own some sort of Smartphone that is capable of browsing the Internet. By comparison, in 2011, that number was only 35%. Analysts estimate that by mid-2014, it is not unreasonable to expect that fully two-thirds of all American adults, regardless of age, will own a Smartphone with which they can browse the web. And as expected, younger adults in the key 20-40 year old age group will lead the way. (These numbers do not include tablets). Today, across the hair replacement industry, approximately 30% to 33% of all daily website visitors are visiting your site from some form of mobile device, whether you are located in a city with a population of 100,000 or 100 million.

Mobile Friendly = Mobile Sales In a 2012 mobile Internet usage survey,* Google found that over twothirds of Smartphone users said that they were more likely to purchase from a company whose website was mobile-friendly, with 72% of survey participants saying that a mobile-friendly website was important to them. This means that a great mobile website experience has become essential in today’s mobile connected marketplace. So if you offer a great mobile experience to your visitors, you have a tangible advantage over your competitors who don’t (or vice versa) . According to Google’s survey: 61% of users surveyed said that if they weren’t able to find what they were looking

for quickly on a mobile site, they would go back and look at other sites. Half of those surveyed went on to say that even if they liked a business, they would use them less often if their website wasn’t mobile-friendly. It has often been said that first impressions mean everything, and when it comes to the web, you have only a few seconds to make that favorable first impression. A website that is not designed to be mobile friendly can leave a potential customer with a negative perception of your business. In Google’s survey: 48% of users said they experienced frustration and annoyance when they visited a site that was not mobile friendly, with 36% saying they felt they had wasted their time trying to visit that site. 48% also said that if a site didn’t work well on their Smartphones, they felt that the company didn’t care about their business.

The Takeaway With the vast number of Smartphones and Tablets in use today, across all age groups, offering your potential and existing customers a great mobile experience is clearly critical to building a positive impression of you and your business, and cultivating strong, lasting customer relationships. If you haven’t looked at your website on your iPhone recently, you might want to do so. Don’t wait to play catch up with your competitors. By creating an effective mobile strategy and offering your

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potential clients a great mobile experience, you can leverage your website to engage with your mobile visitors, meet their needs, and help your business to stand out as an innovator within your market area. And when a potential client gets lost on their way to their initial consultation, they’ll feel a lot more comfortable and at ease, knowing you’re only a finger tap away to help them.

Sources

* Google, Sterling Research and SmithGeiger, What Users Want Most From Mobile Sites Today, July 2012. Pew Internet Mobile Research Project, September 2013.

The Link Issue 9, Spring, 2014 21

A new era in laser hair therapy.

Developed and made in the heart of Silicon Valley, CA the Theradome™ LH80 PRO is the first and only FDA OTC cleared, wearable clinical strength laser. Participants in clinical trials reported: > Reduction in hair loss

> Increased hair thickness

> New hair growth

Learn why the Theradome™ LH80 PRO is the next-generation LLLT hair restoration device. www.theradome.com Theradome™ LH80 PRO is an over-the-counter (OTC) device indicated for treatment of Androgenetic Alopecia to promote hair growth in females with female pattern hair loss (FPHL) on the Ludwig and Savin Hair Loss Scale I-II; Fitzpatrick Skin Types I-IV.

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Hacker insurance

Are you covered if your customer’s information is stolen? by: Jeff Pulford, President, InsureBeauty.com

he recent Target store cyber thefts woke up the world to the huge problem of digital liability. Well, at least it woke up Jean Luc, the owner of a midsized salon specializing in women’s hair replacement. It seemed everyone had a horror story about credit and debit card theft, embezzlement, identity loss, credit card centers and even suits by customers and state attorneys.

He had recently purchased a second salon that brought his client base to almost 1,400. He was in the process of updating the servers and determining how to keep client data confidential. Jean Luc knew profitable expansion was dependent on better business practices and one of his first decisions was to place the salon’s insurance with a new, energetic and experienced insurance broker, Barb Black. Jean Luc called Barb, mentioned he thought the world was going crazy, and that he needed straight talk and clear information about all this computer theft. He wondered if he was vulnerable like the big companies. Barb answered that Jean Luc’s new insurance program included a broad form of “Cyber Liability and Data Security Coverage.” The limits were $1,000,000, covered both locations and had a low premium of $922. Barb understood how concerned Jean Luc was and thought an actual claim story, shortened dramatically, would help explain many of the “cyber” problems and solutions of large and small business. Barb said “Let me give you the short details of an actual claim regarding Data and Security Breach coverage, the expenses incurred and clarify how the insurance company paid the losses.” An upscale salon, much like yours

in size and services, had a data breach partially caused by lax server security, credit card procedures and poor database management. It was also discovered an employee had some part in the problem. The salon’s servers and card readers were hacked and in a short time their client’s personal information was in the hands of unscrupulous thieves. This included bank account numbers, credit and debit card information, home addresses, phone numbers, computer passwords and even confidential grooming secrets. Upon notification the insurance company got involved directly and protected the salon by paying all claims and offering sophisticated digital loss control including: 1. Paid $60,000 to a public relations firm to manage the publicity surrounding the event.

Barb gave Jean Luc a listing of all the Cyber Liability Coverages he had in his policy which were needed to protect a business today. 1. Data Breech Liability and Expense 2. Security Breach and Expense

2. As state law requires the company to report the breach and notify anyone affected and prevent additional breaches the following occurred, at a cost of $300,000:

3. Defense of Regulatory Proceeding - Due to violations of federal or state laws regulating the protection of private information.

a. Hired a forensics team to determine all people affected.

4. PCI Fines and Penalties - Credit or debit card industry fines and penalties for inadequately securing payment card information

b. Sent out notification letters and e-mails to everyone involved. c. Bought a credit monitoring service for every customer for a two-year period. d. Helped Secure their network and Card processing systems. 3. Paid Defense costs ($10,000) and fines ($30,000) due to privacy law violations.

Jean Luc couldn’t comprehend that the insurance company paid $400,000 for such a claim. He thanked Barb for providing this coverage, and determined he would have a safe digital environment. Barb put him in contact with their Loss Control Department.

5. Cyber Extortion Threat Expense - Extortion payments expense to hire negotiators and rewards to catch extorters. 6. Website Liability - Covers claims for libel, slander, right of privacy, plagiarism, misappropriation of ideas and infringement of copyright and trademark arising from the organization’s website activity. 7. Identity Theft

Jean Luc felt relieved and was so confident he could protect his busines s and clients that he began plans to add a third location. Jeff Pulford is President of www.InsureBeauty.com and writes articles for the beauty industry. The Link Issue 9, Spring, 2014 23

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

The technology of man-made fibers Elvira Amankwa, CMP, Marketing Manager, New Image Labs Jon Fortgang, President, New Hair Technology Hair researchers have invested top dollar and many years into creating the “perfect” man-made fiber. Nature may not have given all of us a good head of hair, but now, science can give us something better. In about 3,000 B.C., the Egyptians invented hair pieces. Using vegetable fibers as well as human hair they fashioned wigs which can be seen in museums today. Not much changed in the centuries that followed their invention. People continued to make hair pieces from human hair or from available fibers. It wasn’t until this century that technology progressed to the point that scientists could actually try to re-create hair. First, let’s take a look at this remarkable, natural head covering, this crown of glory.

AMAZING NATURAL HAIR FACTS • All of the hair follicles you’ll ever have were formed when you were a fetus (5 months)

SO MUCH MORE THAN “JUST HAIR” What great versatility and intricate science! “Just hair” would be a severe understatement. Read on to fully appreciate what a startling creation just one single strand of hair is.

Hair Anatomy Hair Follicle: Located in the dermis, this part of the hair is underneath the skin. When it is pulled from the skin, it is called “bulb”. It maintains stem cells which are responsible for re-growing the hair. Hair Shaft: The hard, filamentous part above the dermis.

SHAFT

FOLLICLE BULB

• The average human sheds about 50 – 150 strands of hair a day • A hair follicle will rep lace a new strand of hair about 20 times in a lifetime • A single healthy strand of hair can withstand about 6.5 pounds • A strand of hair is stronger than a copper wire of equivalent diameter

MEDULLA CORTEX CUTICLE

• The only part of the hair that is not dead is within the scalp • Hair is composed of the following elements: Carbon, Oxygen, Nitrogen, Hydrogen, and Sulphur • Each hair strand has its own muscle, nerve and blood supply • Hair remains in the anagen phase (growing stage) from anywhere to 2 – 6 years • The determining factor of the amount of time hair spends in the anagen phase is genetically predisposed 24 The Link Issue 9, Spring, 2014

A cross section of the hair shaft reveals three separate layers: 1. Almost like roof shingles, the cuticle consists of flat, tightly overlapping cells. 2. The cortex makes up the majority of the hair shaft. 3. The medulla is the center or “the heart” of the fiber.

INCREDIBLE MAN-MADE FIBERS HAIR ENGINEERING AT ITS BEST Although having distinctly different features and benefits, scientists seem to agree that the closer the molecular structure of man-made fiber to that of human hair, the more natural the bounce, look and feel. Some common benefits of man-made fibers include prolonged hold strength of styles and great color retention. That’s also why many end users claim that man-made fibers are actually better than their own natural hair. The style memory, for example, allows wears to swim or even use a sauna and still retain their curl. The lightness of many of the man-made fibers results in great comfort to the wearer. And thanks to fade resistance, man-made fibers come in vibrant colors. But be aware, working with man-made fibers requires certain skills and many manufacturers distributing man-made fibers require education and even certification courses to make sure that those who work with their fibers are qualified to do so.

HAIR CURIOSITIES • It’s a myth hair continues to grow after death • Hair is the most common forensic evidence • The word shampoo comes from the Hindu-Urdu word “champna” meaning “to massage” • It takes only 13 days for grey hair to appear from stress or signs of aging • Trichoptilosis: The scientific term for split ends • The average lifespan of an eyelash is 150 days • Black hair is the most common hair color • Scotland has the highest proportion of redheads living in a country (13%) • The anticipation of sex makes hair grow faster • Hair absorbs oil out of water and was used in the recent Gulf oil disaster to clean up oil spills • A balanced, healthy diet works hair wonders

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COLOR FASTNESS

HUMAN HAIR

TEXTURE

There are four major Depending on textures: fine, medium climate, processed hair (does not fly away), coarse & wiry. Determined by will fade quicker measuring the diameter than Remy (denier) of each hair. unprocessed.

CURLING TEMP & HEAT RESISTANCE

CUTTING & STYLING

Up to 400° f

Thinning shears, straight scissors and razor.

Medium to High

The loss of moisture and natural oils can cause frizziness.

When tangling occurs, gently comb through from ends to roots until all tangles are loose.

BLOW FRIZZING DRYING

TANGLING

KANEKALON

9 -12 months.

Smooth, lightweight, soft, curl friendly.

Up to 180° f

Thinning shears #4420 and scissors.

Low to Medium

Steamer or curling iron will reduce frizziness.

Minimal to none.

TOUPELON

9 -12 months.

Smooth, lightweight, soft, curl friendly.

Up to 180° f

Thinning shears #4420 and scissors.

Low to Medium

Steamer or curling iron will reduce frizziness.

Minimal to none.

POLYESTER

Up to 12 months.

Mimics human hair, smooth, soft, lightweight, heat friendly, strong, resilient & low absorbency.

Up to 400° f

No razor, ends will fray. Blunt cut for best results.

Medium to High

Steamer or curling iron will reduce frizziness.

None.

9 -12 months.

Smooth, lightweight, strong, heat friendly.

Up to 284° f

Thinning shears #4420 and scissors.

Medium to High

Steamer or curling iron will reduce frizziness.

Minimal to none.

NYLON

High level of fade resistance.

Smooth, lightweight, strong, heat friendly, high absorbency.

Up to 356° f

Thinning shears #4420, scissors. Always use an angle cut.

Medium to High

Frizzing is possible. Difficult to remove.

If cut properly, no tangling.

BIOLON

Highest level of fade resistance.

Mimics human hair, smooth, soft, lightweight, heat friendly, strong, resilient.

Up to 360° f

Thinning shears #4420, scissors. Do not use a razor.

Medium to High

Frizzing is possible.

Minimal to none.

CYBERHAIR

High level of fade resistance.

Smooth, lightweight, strong, heat friendly, dries quickly.

Up to 320° f

Colbalt Steel Thinning and Cutting Shears; always use an angle cut

Low to Medium

Frizzing is possible. Difficult to remove.

If cut properly, no tangling.

(Modacrylic)

FUTURA

(Modacrylic)

The Link Issue 9, Spring, 2014 25

Professional Hair Labs introduce the Phantom Pro Series Hair Care Range, the perfect combination of hair care products for everyday use on your hairpiece or wig. You invest a lot of time and money to ensure the best possible results from your hair, so invest in professional grade hair care products tio complete the process! Pro Series is the perfect finish for hair, leaving you with clean and vibrant hair without Sulfates or Parabens. The rich lather is eco-friendly and gently cleanses the hair fibers to remove dulling buildup. e tracts, Argan Oil The unique blend of natural ex and Panthenol revitalizes damaged hair with each wash. The Pro Series all in one spray conditioner adds control, shine and detangling with a single application. It provides just the right amount of control without weighing the hair down. Do Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t let your hair down! Call us to find out more about the Pro Series hair care line.

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-Argueably the best performing products -Friendly customer support -Wide range of services -Enviromentaly friendly packaging -Skin friendly products -Largest information database on ingredients -Easy to do business with

SUPPORT THOSE WHO SUPPORT US

Our Manufacturer and Vendor Members are the lifeblood of our organization. Let’s continue to support each with our patronage.

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New LLLT clinical studies by: Leonard Stillman, Director of Professional Services, Lexington International

he results of four clinical studies on the treatment of male and female pattern hair loss with the HairMax LaserComb, was published January 30, 2014 in a peer-review journal, The American Journal of Clinical Dermatology. The article, Efficacy and Safety of a Low-level Laser Device in the Treatment of Male and Female Pattern Hair Loss: A Multicenter, Randomized, Sham Device-controlled, Double-blind Study was co-authored by renowned experts in the field of hair disorders. The complete study: http://link.springer.com/ article/10.1007/s40257-013-0060-6

: What is the significance of the publication of this article?

Until now, only the results of one large clinical trial with only male subjects has been published. It showed that low level laser therapy (LLLT) in general, and the HairMax LaserComb in particular, is a safe and effective nondrug treatment for herediatary hair loss. With so many products on the market, it is vital to have hard evidence that a product works based on scientifically designed clinical studies. Therefore, the publication of the results of these studies with both male and female subjects is an unprecendented event, in that the for the second time, a clinical trial with a large number of subjects, treated with the HairMax LaserComb conclusively showed once again, that LLLT is a safe and effective treatment option for hereditary hair loss in both men and women.

: What exactly is a peer-reviewed journal?

Many of the articles published that provide so-called ‘proof’ that a product works, are published in magazines that have no peer review. Anyone can make claims about their products, but few can 28 The Link Issue 9, Spring, 2014

scientifically prove them. A peer review journal, on the other hand, is one that ONLY publishes articles that are reviewed by third party medical experts to assure that they are written in a totally unbiased manner. These articles provide scientific information only, and in this case, only reflect study results.

: How does the publication of these studies impact the hair loss industry?

First of all, it is important to know that there are only three treatments with FDA accreditation for treating pattern hair loss in men, Propecia (a prescription only, oral drug), Rogaine (minoxidil – an OTC topical drug) andLLLT devices. For females, there are only two options, Rogaine (minoxdil) and LLLT. However, as the clinical paper pointed out, all of the studies to date, either had a small number of subjects, or only tested their device on one gender. The design of these four studies described in the paper, remedied the deficiencies of all of the studies to date, in that a large number of both males and females were included, which yielded irrefutable proof of efficacy and safety. The publication of the results now places LLLT in general, and the HairMax LaserComb in particular as an ideal safe and effective first-line, non-drug treatment they can confidently recommend for all people with appropriate classes of hereditary hair loss. An effective alternative to drugs is needed and one that also has an excellent safety record. The publications of these studies now provide conclusive proof that LLLT is a true treatment option that can be recommended and used with confidence. Many experts have seen a synergistic result from combining LLLT, minoxidil, propecia or a combination of all three in a treatment regimen.

: Where were the studies conducted?

Experts in hair loss at major dermatology teaching institutions throughout the country conducted the studies. Some of these institutions include the Cleveland Clinic, University of Minnesota and the University of Miami.

: What was the role of Lexington International in these studies?

Lexington was the sponsor of the studies and provided the funds for the research sites. Lexington utilized experts in designing the protocol or guidelines for the studies, which had to follow very strict guidelines called Good Clinical Practices (GCP). This guideline assured that the clinical studies were conducted in a manner that allows them to be conducted in a totally unbiased manner, with no input from the sponsor once the studies got under way. The final protocols were reviewed by institutional review boards at each study location to assure compliance to GCP and an independent Clinical Research Organization monitored the studies. Once all this is done, the research took place independently of Lexington. A person considering the HairMax LaserComb can rest assured that the clinical studies were carried out in the highest standards and that the results found are conclusive.

: How were the studies designed so that no biases were built into them?

The clinical studies were shamdevice controlled, which means that the lasercomb was tested against a non-active device. For the results to be a success, the laser comb had to have results that are statistically significantly better than the inactive device. Many

The Link The Voice of the AHLC clinical studies that you read about did not compare their results against a non-active control so there is no way to know if the results are just happenstance and are therefore not really meaningful.

: Why were the studies conducted over 26 weeks?

It was determined from prior experience that men and women began to show measurable results at 16 weeks and it was decided to also see what further changes occurred after 26 weeks. This is important in order to better categorize long-term results. The studies showed that many of the control device subjects lost hair over the course of the study, but those on the lasercomb did not. This means that people who continue to treat their hair loss will see results that sustain themselves for as long as the device is used, just as the subjects in the studies did.

: What were the criteria for measuring success in the trials?

Success was measured by the increased density (growth) in hair treated with the laser comb compared to the sham (control/inactive device). This is method assures that the results can be quantified and do not solely rely on judgment calls such as hair “appears thicker” or “seems to have grown more,” etc. Further, since each study site is following the same protocol, results from each study center had to be the same, or close to the result at all the other sites (and they were), which provides proof that the results were not just happenstance, but were predictable. Studies that measure increases in hair growth are the gold standard in providing proof of efficacy.

: Why were 224 subjects in total evaluated in the four clinical trials?

The amount of subjects chosen for each of the four studies was based on a mathematical formula to assure that the results were conclusive and predictable. The final number of subjects

completing the studies is considered robust in that that number of subjects would conclusively prove that the device is safe and effective for the treatment of hereditary hair loss in both men and women. The clinical paper discusses the importance of studying a large patient population to get meaningful results.

model when similar laser dose rates were delivered”. “No serious adverse events were reported in any subject receiving the lasercomb in any of the four trials… there were no significant differences in active device adverse events as recorded by device type.”

Baseline

26 weeks To reinforce this, the paper illustrated a poorly designed study that yielded no meaningful conclusions, with this discussion. “… there have been few peer-reviewed data on efficacy. In one published study, only seven subjects with pattern hair loss (six female subjects and one male subject) were evaluated upon treatment with a laser ‘hood’. The study was not sham devicecontrolled and the results did not reach statistical significance.”

: What were the overall results of these clinical studies?

The following direct quotes sum up the results of the study as far as efficacy and safety: “In four randomized, double-blind, sham-controlled trials of MPHL [male pattern baldness] and FPHL [female pattern baldness], we detected a statistically significant increase in terminal hair density after 26 weeks of lasercomb treatment compared with sham treatment. Such improvement was independent of the sex and age of the subject and independent of the lasercomb

: What did the subjects report about their results?

The real test of how well a device works, is how the subjects perceived the changes in the appearance of their hair. While change in hair count is conclusive proof, when people see a real difference in their hair that is what treatment is all about. Here is the quote on this aspect from the study, “A higher percentage of laser comb treated subjects reported overall improvement of hair loss condition and thickness and fullness of hair in self-assessment, compared with sham-treated subjects.”

: Should LLLT be offered to clients who do not respond to finasteride or minoxidil?

LLLT may be an effective option to treat pattern hair loss in both men and women. The article also addresses this: “… LLLT may provide a promising treatment option for patients who do not respond to either finasteride or minoxidil and who do not want to undergo hair transplantation.” The Link Issue 9, Spring, 2014 29

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AHLC ANNUAL CONFERENCE April 26-28, Hyatt Regency Pier 66, Fort Lauderdale Call Betty Bugden 570.462.1101 for info. Di Biase Hair USA For a listing of scheduled certification classes throughout the U.S. visit www.dibiasehairusa.com/pages/certification.html or call 248-489-8900. Follea, 4C Workshop 4/29-30, Ft. Lauderdale, FL The FOLLEA® 4C Workshops are uniquely designed to allow FOLLEA salon professionals reach the highest level of expertise in handling the supremely natural European hair, Next Generation Wigs and Topette® Crown Extensions their clients have chosen. Learn from our experts. The Care, Cut and Color classes were designed by a master stylist in collaboration with a professional scientist/educator to emphasize the specificities of working with top-quality human hair pieces. The final class, Customization, explores all the options available and the details about each unique collection Call (310) 821-2860, log onto www.follea.com/technical-education-4c-workshops or email salon@follea.com.

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New Image Join us for the NIU LIVE 2014 Business Success Series, an exciting line-up of power-packed and hands-on conferences, hosted in our new, state-of-the art facility in West Palm Beach, Florida. Get to know New Image intimately and learn all there is to ensure the success of your hair replacement business: revolutionary new hair systems, late-breaking application techniques, cutting-edge hair fashion trends from Europe plus the newest business ideas. Choose from dates that work for you. If professional and business growth is your priority – The NIU LIVE 2014 Business Success Series is an investment well worth your time and money. Make plans NOW to attend and call 1-800-359-4247 for dates. On Rite Regional Hair Academies 4/13-14, NJ, Two Day Women’s Hair Replacement Certification Class 6/15 Philadelphia, PA, One Day Ultratress Certification Class 6/16 Philadelphia, PA, One Day Medical Hair Loss Certification Class 6/29-30 Denver, CO, Two Day Women’s Hair Replacement Cert. Class Hair Academy, Corporate Offices, Ft. Lauderdale, FL May 5 - Ultratress Certification Class 5/17-20 - Men’s and Women’s Hair Replacement (3 days) and One Day Medical Hair Loss. Contact 800-327-5555 or www.onritedirect.com. IHI 3/22-3/24 – Cyberworld, Green Valley Ranch, Las Vegas, NV Make plans now to see all the new updates for Cyberhair Micro Point Solutions and Private Issue.

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30 The Link Issue 9, Spring, 2014

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

AHLC member spotlight Keith Zimmerman, Keith’s Hair Center, Green Bay, WI

hen I was 13 years old, my first job was at my parent’s barbershop. I had to clean the shop and shine shoes. I will readily admit that I hated it and would rather have been running around with my friends. To make things worse they always played elevator music in the shop. The only reprieve from listening to this boring music was at 5 o’clock each day. I would listen to Ronald Reagan’s radio show, “Thanks for Listening.” His message to pursue your hopes, dreams and creative ambitions created a drive in me to start my own business.

At 16 I was my dad’s hairpiece assistant. Of course in 1978 the hairpieces were much different than what we work with today. I swear we did them all the same. Every client had a hard left hand part and a finger wave in the front. Barbers were not very knowledgeable about hair color so when the hair faded, we sprayed color on with a product called Chrometone. When I graduated from high school I became an apprentice barber under my dad and then finished my apprenticeship at another shop in Watertown, WI. After finishing my apprenticeship and getting married to my wife Kim, I desperately wanted to start my own business. I was 22 and couldn’t get a bank loan. Although I couldn’t figure out why no one would lend me the money I needed, I can see why a bank would not take a risk on a 22-year-old with no business experience. I had to fund the business with $3,000 from our wedding, a sears credit card and a landlord willing to take a risk on a 22-year-old kid. My first week in business, I only did three haircuts. In the second week I had five haircuts and somebody who wasn’t related finally walked in the door. I was

1984

lucky that I didn’t need to take a check for the first three years in business. We had a cheap apartment, no debt and lived off Kim’s salary from an insurance company. Every dollar that came into the salon stayed in the salon. As we hired staff it would always cause a major drain on the cash flow. It seemed that I would take one step back in order to take two forward.

The Start of Real Growth In 1985 my father, Marlin Zimmerman, came to work for us. He was only with us for six months, but he had a

Keith Zimmerman, In the year 2000 huge impact on the future of the business. He brought his hairpiece clientele with him. I was not doing any of this type of work at the time. When he left to live in Phoenix, I had to quickly learn how to service these clients. It was difficult at first to know how to deliver the hair and understand all the aspects of the hair replacement industry. I really had to seek out any education I could get. Selling two or three hairpieces a month seemed like great money. The problem was we weren’t attracting new clients. The next generation of hair wearers didn’t want to wear a toupee

1989

and set it on the nightstand every night. I had started running my first TV commercials. I would sell a few new people from these ads, but they were already wearing hair from somewhere else. I had to sell more or quit running the TV ads. Bonding is what changed my business and our industry. My first bonding client came from Chicago and wanted to know if I could re-bond his hair system. I learned how to do it in five minutes while on the phone with my supplier. Using a piece of tape in the front, fusion hooks and super glue I faked my way through it. Even so, that client still comes to me today! This taught me how stepping out of my comfort zone helped me grow. Now that I was getting into bonding, I needed to attract more clients. Hair Club was taking off on the national level and independent centers were seeing rapid growth. What they all had in common was that they were running infomercials. I bought my first infomercial in 1991. I paid $9,500 for a canned infomercial. The first week the infomercial ran we sold 13 clients new hair. For every dollar spent we were getting three dollars back. Now the problem was not getting clients, it was getting enough staff. There were times I backed off the ads because I couldn’t handle the traffic. The 90’s were a period of great growth for us. Salon Today named Keith’s Haircenter one of the Top 200 Salons in America four different years. We opened a second location in Appleton, WI in 1995. As we grew we needed to expand our facilities and bought a 5000 square foot building for our Green Bay location. My staff had grown to 18 employees in a very short period.

1996

The Link The Voice of the AHLC

Changing With The Times We started selling program hair in the 90’s. This was a huge change for us. Programs eliminated all the problems that we were having. They helped our cash flow, eliminated customer complaints and turnover. The only problem we had was tracking billing and hair orders because nothing was automated. That’s when we automated our entire business with computers. We no longer ordered hair too early or late and billing was accurate and easy.

Since opening we always offered regular salon services, so doing women’s hair replacement was an easy transition for us. The goal was to give women the same fashion trendy hair that any other woman could achieve. Women were looking for fashion while most of our men were more worried about covering up their problem. When a new cut or color trend developed we incorporated it into women’s hair replacement.

Like any good thing, it doesn’t last forever. It was slowly getting harder to sell new hair clients. I always was looking for the next new thing. When program hair started to flatten, we would always look to upgrade clients to the newest technology in hair systems. Clients changed from buying hair once a year to buying four per year. The price was less per system, but we made more by doing more volume. Getting new clients continued to get harder as we started into the 2000’s. I made up for this by upgrading clients program by doing full head bonding and light based systems. Most of our programs increased to 6-8 per year. We also did well with what I call our top ten percent clients who were getting hair 12 to 18 times per year. The upgrading of programs allowed us to continue to grow despite a decline in new client sales.

The Birth of the Women’s Market Although we always did women’s hair replacement, it was only ten percent of our business up to 2004. Most women came to us because they were desperate and didn’t know where else to go. We did not market to women until 2005. It was then that we started running ads for women. We changed our TV ads, changed our website and began using internet ads. 32 The Link Issue 9, Spring, 2014

forty percent women. Unless we see a large market swing, I think the women’s programs will surpass the men’s. I now spend the largest portion of the marketing budget on women.

Staying Current This year Keith’s Haircenter will celebrate 30 years in business. We have increased sales 28 of the last 29 years. The goal has always been to always keep improving. In 2012 it was time to improve our facilities. The Green

Bay location underwent a complete makeover. The interior and exterior were totally remodeled. In 2013 we moved our second location in Appleton, WI and matched the décor to the Green Bay location.

Keith’s Haircenter and VOGA Wigs Today One thing that became apparent early on was that we needed to offer a variety of solutions. If we continued to only do top of the head bonding, we were not closing enough sales to continue our TV marketing. So we started offering laser treatments, clip-ons, wigs and hair extensions. We went from ten to seventy percent of our consultations buying a solution from us. By offering all of these other options, we kept them coming for salon services and many converted to more expensive hair replacement solutions. For the first time, in 2010, we sold to more women than men. Our program clients are now sixty percent men and

When we remodeled we opened a wig store at each location called Voga Wigs. Voga Wigs was opened to take advantage of the upswing in the women’s’ market. It is designed as an upscale boutique with an inventory of 300 ready-to-wear wigs. The response has been incredible and the two businesses refer clients to one another depending on a woman’s needs. I appreciate everyone who supported me in living my dream. It has been an unbelievable journey. The success of Keith’s Haircenter would never have been possible without a supportive family and a loyal dedicated staff. I believe our industry will develop and grow into the future. Nobody knows what our business will look like moving forward. The only thing I know for sure is that it will always be changing.

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The Link The Voice of the AHLC

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34 The Link Issue 8, 2013

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