United Airlines Hemispheres Magazine August 2009 by Ahmed Aamir

HEMISPHERESTHREEPERFECTDAYS:VICTORIA,B.C.HOWTOSAVESPORTSISTHECUREFORCANCERUNDERWATER? A STAR ALLIANCE MEMBER

©VOLVO CARS OF NORTH AMERICA, LLC. THE IRON MARK AND “VOLVO FO R LIFE” ARE REGISTERED TRADEMARKS OF VOLVO. ALWAYS REMEMBER TO WE AR YOUR SEAT BELT. ROUND TRIP FOR TWO INCLUDED. DISCOVER VOLVO OVERSEAS DELIVERY. Take a trip overseas where your custom-built souvenir is part of an unforgettable experience. Along with generous savings, complimentary round trip tickets for two, VIP delivery at th e home of Volvo in Sweden, home shipment services and more. Too good to be true? Not with the Volvo Overseas Delivery Program. Enjoy the vacation of a lifetime. Start at your Volvo retailer, call (800)631 1667 or (201)784 4649 or visit www.volvocars.us/mybagsarepacked The Volvo Overseas Delivery Program is only available to US residents. Contact us for other special offers for Diplomats, Expat s and US Military Personnel.

BY STEPHAN PHOTOGRAPHSTALTYBYTIM CALVER THE WOLFMAN COMETH New Hampshire mainstay Clark’s Trading Post is one of the last surviving roadside attractions. And with its grizzled sideshow ogre set to retire, a writer hopes to take his place.

THE TREASURE HUNTER Ecologist Marc Slattery says cures for just about everything can be found in the ocean—and he’s diving in to ﬁnd them all.

647078 contentsUNITED.COM|HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM CALVERTIMBYPHOTOGRAPH Hunting medicine off

BY MATT PHOTOGRAPHSTHOMPSONBYDAVID CICCONI 3 PERFECT DAYS: VICTORIA, B.C. With a hint of Victorian reﬁnement, a strong Native American ﬂavor and a scenic mountain range, the City of Gardens has all the ingredients of a tourist haven—but don’t worry, it’s not one yet. BY MELISSA NIX the

THE TREASURE HUNTER | P. 64Aug.

Marc Slattery’s a cure hunter. For the past 20-odd years, he has been scouring the ocean ﬂoor for organisms that will be turned into medicines for ﬁghting everything from AIDS-related illnesses to cancer.

Exumas YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY

departments COVER IMAGE Josh Cochran // joshcochran.net 6 Contributors 9 Voices Introducing United's vice president of Flight Operations 12 Connections United introduces a new Choice Menu. DEPARTMENTS 14 Wish You Were Here 17 Dispatches Notes from all over 21 Goods Gizmos and gear 24 Whirlwind Five hours in Paris 27 Whereabouts Actress Leslie Mann relaxes in Hawaii, where she and Judd Apatow tied the knot. 29 News What to see, where to stay, when to go 35 Seattle’s Best Karl Weyrauch’s Coffee Rwanda is helping the war-torn African nation heal, one cup at a time. COLUMNS 36 You Must Remember This Get organized and stay that way with know-it-all cloud app Evernote. By Tom Samiljan 40 AUGUST 2009 | UNITED.COM ABCCOURTESYMANDOJANA,JOSEBYATHÉNÉE,PLAZAHÔTELOFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPHSLEFT,FROMPHOTOARCHIVESWRITE TO US: Hemispheres.ed@ink-publishing.com HEMISPHERES MAGAZINE 68 Jay St. Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 SUBSCRIBE TO HEMISPHERES For a free subscription to our monthly eMag and to access recent issues, go to HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM 38 Barn Burner New York’s most exclusive club is a rural retreat in Woodstock, on ex-Band drummer Levon Helm’s farm. // By Jason Fine 40 Yuppie Love As thirtysomething finally arrives on DVD, its creators recall the Me Generation. By Willa Paskin 42 Middle Eastern Promises Israel is Real documents its author’s obsession with the history of the Holy Land. // By Aaron Gell 44 High on the Hog Pigging out on pork has never been so fashionable. // By Ben Detrick 47 Mother Courage After the death of Broadway producer Robert Whitehead, his wife and sons find solace on the backs of Harleys. By Sam Whitehead 51 The Lobster Trap Careful selfregulation hasn't protected this stoic industry from collapse. Can innovation? // By Edward Lewine 55 Wooden It Be Nice? New tennis rackets made of high-tech materials make us nostalgic for simpler times. // By Jason Gay 29 40 59 “Appendix” An incisive tale of medical bravery from China By Yu Hua 63 Artifact Souvenirs from the field 93 Hemispheres Luxury Real Estate Guide 101 PLAY Movies, television and audio programming 112 Route Maps & Terminal Diagrams 124 Crossword, sudoku and quiz 128 Beverages & Food 130 In Transit Who’s sitting next to you? 51

Call 1.800.VZW.4BIZ Click verizonwireless.com/goglobal Visit your local Verizon Wireless store BlackBerry Storm™ $199.99 with 2-yr activation on voice plan with email feature or email plan. Coverage in Spain. And more than 200 other countries. Activation fee/line: $35. IMPORTANT CONSUMER INFORMATION: Subject to your Major Account Agreement or Customer Agreement, Calling Plan, & credit approval. Up to $175 early termination fee/line & other charges. Device capabilities: Add’l charges apply. Offers and coverage, varying by service, not available everywhere. Network details and coverage maps at verizonwireless.com. ©2009 Verizon Wireless. The world is calling. Answer it. With Verizon Wireless, you can call and text in more than 200 countries. Plus, with more data coverage than ever before, you can email and browse the world wide web—around the whole wide world. So before you travel the globe, for business or pleasure, switch to Verizon Wireless, America’s Largest Wireless Network.

MELISSA NIX A journalist who has written for the San Francisco Chronicle and The Los Angeles Times, Nix is also a seasoned traveler. She has lived in Germany, Belgium, Rome, Tokyo and Seoul, and enjoyed her three perfect days in Victoria immensely (page 76). “I loved the baby goats at the park,” she says. “And the Victorian’s Clamato-based Bloody Mary, the Bloody Caesar, was one of my favorite things. Clamato juice is key.”

TIM CALVER During his junior year of college, Calver bought an underwater camera for a scuba trip to the Bahamas. The rest is history. “There is no end to the creative possibilities presented by water,” he says. “I am constantly inspired by new subjects and new ways to shoot.” He was happy to return to the Bahamas (page 62), because “the water was just starting to get warm, and I could wear a shorty wet suit.”

WILLA PASKIN Having written about television for Double X (a Slate spinoff), Salon, The Daily Beast, Variety and Radar, Paskin has become an expert. This month, she got to catch up on thirtysomething (page 40). “It holds up enormously well,” she says. “I watched the pilot in a coffee shop, on my computer, and I was the crazy lady in the corner booth sobbing for no apparent reason. But there was a reason! It’s a great show.”

STEPHAN TALTY Always adventure-minded, Talty ﬁrst learned about undersea pharmaceutical researchers (page 62) while writing a book about Caribbean pirate Henry Morgan. “I don’t actually dive,” he says. “But I do go to a lot of dive bars.” His current book is titled The Illustrious Dead: The Terrifying Story of How Typhus Killed Napoleon’s Greatest Army, and he’s working on another about the Dalai Lama’s 1959 escape from Tibet.

EDWARD LEWINE A self-described “committed omnivore,” Lewine’s covered food, wine and spirits for The New York Times Magazine and Details, among others. He’s also working on two books—one about wine and the other home repair. It was a treat for him to cover the Maine lobster industry (page 51), because he “loves the accent,” though he “couldn’t reproduce it if you offered me the keys to Fenway Park.” He’ll take his lobster broiled, not boiled, please.

BARRY BLITT

The illustrious illustrator has worked for Time, Rolling Stone, The New York Times and The New Yorker, where his political cartoons often cause a stir. “It gets the adrenaline going,” he says. Although this month he worked on a story about tennis (page 55), Blitt’s a hockey fan. “My beloved Pittsburgh Penguins won the Stanley Cup this year,” he says. “It’s all I really care about.”

6 contributors AUGUST 2009 | UNITED.COM EDITOR IN CHIEF Aaron Gell EXECUTIVE EDITOR Mike Guy ASSOCIATE EDITORS Adam K. Raymond, Layla Schlack ART DIRECTOR Rob Hewitt DESIGNER Ellie Clayman PHOTO EDITOR Erin Giunta CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Jane Black, Jason Fine, Porter Fox, Jason Gay, Sarah Horne, Edward Lewine, Matt Thompson, Willa Paskin CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Spencer Heyfron, John Lawton, David Cicconi, Tim Calver EDITORIAL INTERNS Katie Gant, Peter Koch, Ashley Venable, Tiffanie Green GROUP EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Michael Keating US EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Orion Ray-Jones INK PUBLISHING, 68 Jay Street, Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 TEL: +1 347-294-1220 FAX: +1 Hemispheres.ed@ink-publishing.com917-591-6247 hemispheresmagazine.com ONLINE TEAM Salah Lababidi, Martin Buhr, Andy Shaw ADVERTISING PUBLISHER Steve Andrews SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGERS Al Loise, Catherine Hanson, Jonathan Ebert, Mildred Pennington, Rachel Mello, Ryan Smith REGIONAL REPRESENTATIVES COLORADO Lauren Grillo TEL: +1 HAWAII303-256-6986 Robert Wiegand TEL: +1 808-587-8300 INTERNATIONAL REPRESENTATIVES CHINA/JAPAN TEL:JOSEPHINE.HO@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+85235419890 SE ASIA TEL:SHAZEEN.MOLEDINA@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+6563022465 EUROPE TEL:MARK.DUKE@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+442076138796 MIDDLE EAST PRODUCTIONTEL:ANTHONY.AZOURY@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+442076138798MANAGER Joe Massey TEL: +1 PRODUCTION678-553-8091CONTROLLER Grace Rivera TEL: +1 678-553-8080 EXT 135 Ink Publishing (sales), Capital Building, 255 East Paces Ferry Road, Suite 400, Atlanta, GA 30305 TEL: +1 888-864-1733 FAX: +1 917-591-6247 INK PUBLISHING CEO Jeffrey O’Rourke COO Hugh Godsal PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Simon Leslie HEMISPHERES is produced monthly by Ink Publishing. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions expressed in HEMISPHERES are not necessarily those of the Publisher or United Airlines, and United Airlines does not accept any responsibility for advertising content. Any images are supplied at the owner’s risk. Any mention of United Airlines or the use of United Airlines logo by any advertiser in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company or its products or services by United Airlines. HEMISPHERES

AUGUST 2009 | UNITED.COM

HOW ECONOMYPURCHASETOPLUS: WHEN CHECKING IN AT THE AIRPORT Select Economy Plus at the EasyCheck-in® kiosk. AT THE GATE. Just ask the gate agent. Within 30 minutes of departure, this is the only place to purchase Economy Plus seating. WHEN BOOKING ONLINE AT UNITED.COM. Select Economy Plus when the option is presented to you. BETWEEN BOOKING AND TRAVEL. You may purchase Economy Plus seating at any time by visiting united.com, clicking on “My Itineraries,” then clicking through to “Travel Options by United. ” WHEN CHECKING IN ONLINE. Select Economy Plus when using EasyCheck-in Online.® travel options by united

You can purchase Economy Plus seating at any time: when ﬁrst booking your ticket at united.com, between booking and traveling by clicking on “My Itineraries” on united.com, when checking in online, or at the airport at the check-in kiosk or gate.

Economy Plus, now celebrating its 10th anniversary, is one of the most popular Travel Options by UnitedSM. Occupying its own seating area near the front of the Economy cabin, Economy Plus offers passengers up to 5 inches of extra legroom.

Different aircraft have different Economy Plus conﬁgurations. Our B747, B777 and international B767 planes, for instance, each offer more than 70 Economy Plus seats. United p.s.® service to Los Angeles, San Francisco and New York offers an all-Economy Plus coach cabin. And all United Express explusSM aircraft feature Economy Plus seating. You can learn more about Economy Plus, or about all the other ways you can use Travel Options by United to customize your next trip, simply by visiting united.com/traveloptions.

Plus®EconomySitmorecomfortably with up to 5 inches of extra legroom.

YOU DON’T HAVE TO BE A PRO BASKETBALL PLAYER to enjoy the beneﬁts of a little extra legroom. Everyone appreciates being able to stretch their legs a bit more, turn a newspaper page more easily, or open a laptop more completely.

“We’re on the roll,” he responds, releasing the brake and putting his hand on the throttles. The plane starts moving. You can hear the hum of the jet engines as it speeds up to 140 knots before pulling up and into the air. As we ascend, the houses visible from the cockpit get smaller and smaller. We can spot the Chicago skyline on the far end of the horizon.

CAPTAIN HOWARD ATTARIAN, United’s vice president of Flight Operations, is seated in the power position of a Boeing 757, going through his preﬂight checklist before a routine departure from Chicago’s O’Hare International Airport. “United one-twenty-three, the winds are calm,” a voice on the radio informs him. “Runway twenty-two right, you’re clear for take-off.”

Highvoices

Aiming

The Advanced Qualification Program includes classroom work and EPT (emergency procedures training), but the most important learning happens in those simulators. As the man who oversees and directly supports the day-to-day reliability, safety and efficiency of United’s fleet, United Vice President of Flight Operations Captain Howard Attarian always knew he wanted to fly. After mastering fighters and airliners, he now helps ensure all 6,200 of United Airlines’ pilots are supported and at the top of their game. BY ROD O’CONNOR

9 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | AUGUST 2009 SERVICESCREATIVEAIRLINESUNITEDBYPHOTOGRAPH

“It gives me a good perspective, from start to ﬁnish, of what our pilots go through over the period of a training cycle,” explains Attarian, looking crisp and relaxed in a golf shirt and jacket. “But it’s not only about how we train. I’m here to talk with our folks and discuss how we all represent our airline and the high degree of professionalism that serves our customers best…and gives United a competitive advantage.”

It’s a textbook take-off except for one detail: It’s not real. We’re not in Chicago—not even at an airport—but in one of 23 simulators in an enormous building in United’s ﬂight training center, just outside downtown Denver. Attarian, 57, typically works out of the company’s operations center in suburban Chicago. But this week, he’s spending some quality time “in the box”—to use proper parlance— during an overview of the 20-day Advanced Qualiﬁcation Program required of all 6,200 United Airlines pilots every nine months.

10 AUGUST 2009 | UNITED.COM SERVICESCREATIVEAIRLINESUNITEDBYPHOTOGRAPH

“While technical skills are obviously essential, a pilot’s role as ambassador and spokesperson can also have a profound impact on a customer’s experience.”

With 3,300 flights to more than 200 destinations a day, reliability and service is United’s goal, with safety its mission. it’s essential that Attarian and his instructors prepare their flight crews for any and all challenges, distractions or “trigger points” they may encounter in the air. Common scenarios include poor visibility, intense storms, engine failures or a call from a flight attendant saying there’s smoke in the galley.

“Often, pilots don’t have time to meet and greet customers because they’re getting ready for the ﬂight. But when they can, I think it provides a level of comfort,” Attarian notes, strolling past a group of fellow pilots taking a break from a postsimulator brieﬁng session. “I think it makes a connection. You may be able to answer one simple question that eliminates a concern for an individual customer. And if you can do that, it’s not only good policy, it’s good business.

While technical skills are obviously essential, he notes, a pilot’s role as ambassador and spokesperson can also have a profound impact on a customer’s experience.

voices

“It’s every pilot’s goal to be a captain and ﬂy the heavy metal,” he notes.

UP AND AWAY

OncevirtualinopenacommunicationnecessityMackay,flmanagingsimulator,thatbestexplains,ofneedandsituationalcommunications,problem-solvingteamwork.“Youtohavethatspiritcooperation,”Attarian“toputtogethertheplanofactiontooperatetripsafely.”BackintheBoeing757Attarianandhisdirectorforighttraining,RobertdemonstratetheofthatopenwhenscenarioinvolvingancargodoorresultsadecisiontoreturnourflightbacktoO’Hare.safelyonterrafirma,Attarianpointsouthowimportantitisthatthetravelingpublicviewpilotsnotasunapproachable figures but as people—highlynormalskilled and dedicated, for certain— but individuals who are ultimately qualified to keep United’s customers apprised of what’s happening in terms of a flight’s operation.

“It’s training to FAA (Federal fulltheyou’vethere’syou’rehevideonotAttarian.forprofistandards,Administration)Aviationtrainingtociencyandtrainingtheinevitabilities,”says“Ourpeopledolookatthesethingslikegames—nothere,”sayswithpride.“Wheninthesimulatorandanenginefailure,gotsweatypalms,slickT-shirt—thedeal.”AretiredofficerandinstructorpilotwiththeU.S.AirForce,Attarianiseasygoingduringconversationbutdisplaysaconfidencethatcommandsattention.ThesonofanAirForceveteran,hegrewuparoundplanes.Thefamilyhadasingle-engineCessna206andagrassrunwayonitsFairview,Kansas,farm.Asachild,Attariantoldhisfatherhewantedtobeoneoftwothings:afighterpilotoranIndyracecardriver.AftergraduatingwithaneducationdegreefromKansasStateUniversity,heflewF-15fightersandwasaninstructorpilotonthataircraftatmilitarybasesin Phoenix and Okinawa, Japan. From 1982 to 1985, he was a demonstration pilot with the lauded United States Air Force Thunderbirds—he still wears the ring indicating membership in this elite squadron—before entering commercial aviation at the age of 33 with Northwest Airlines, where he served as a pilot for 23 years.

And while the

Resourcecaptainsunilateralﬁpilottransitionaquickare“stick-and-rudder”basicskillsthesame,Attarianistonotethatoperatingjumbojetrequiresamentalonthepartofaweanedonsingle-seatghters:Insteadofmakingdecisions,airlinefollowCrewManagement (or CRM) training, a set of procedures emphasizing cockpit

“Seeing the Choice Menu items in addition to the traditional snackboxes was a welcome surprise on a recent ﬂight from San Francisco to Chicago,” says Zoe King, a frequent United ﬂier whose travels also take him twice a month between his home base of San Francisco and New York. “I chose the turkey and Swiss lavash wrap, and I liked it so much I ordered a spinach and bacon salad to take to the hotel.” Excellent choice. Visit united.com for more information on the Choice Menu.

MAKING A CHOICE

CHOCOLATE OR VANILLA. Apples or oranges. Paper or plastic. Your day is full of choices. And now, with the new Choice Menu, United is offering you even more of Customersthem.flying in United Economy on dozens of United flights can select a host of premium snack and beverage items for sale. Looking to start the day just right? Try the Gourmet Deli Plate. Prefer to start the day off light? Then go for the Fruit & Yogurt Parfait. Both—along with a continental breakfast—are served on flights departing before 10 a.m. On Choice Menu flights serving lunch and dinner, United offers sandwiches, wraps and salads. If you’re up early or tired after racing through a busy day, revive yourself with Revive Vitamin Water or any of more than a dozen premium beverages. For travelers with a light snack in mind, the Choice Menu includes several à la carte items, including potato chips and mixed nuts, as well as newly redesigned snackboxes. And if you’ve got a taste for something sweet, you can choose a chocolate bar, shortbread cookies, granola bars, energy bars… The choice is yours! And if you choose not to make a choice at all, then choose one of everything. We won’t tell.

United introduced the Choice Menu May 5 on ights linking San Francisco with Denver, Chicago and Washington, and has gradually expanded the Choice Menu to many ights to and from Los Angeles, Honolulu and Maui. By year-end, Choice Menu items will be available for sale in United Economy on most flights of at least two hours’ duration throughout the continental U.S., Hawaii, Canada, Central America and the Caribbean. In designing the Choice Menu, United convened 12 customer focus groups— six each in Chicago and San Francisco—to gauge travelers’ appetites for onboard food sales and to understand better what level of service travelers value on flights of varying lengths. United also interviewed customers by phone and evaluated feedback from thousands of travelers who completed two comprehensive online surveys. In other words, we did our homework. The result: more choices for more travelers. If the Choice Menu isn’t yet available on your flight, ask a flight attendant about our redesigned snackboxes— they’re already widely available, even on flights that don’t yet have the full Choice Menu options. Then come back and see us. More choices are on the way!

connections AUGUST 2009 | UNITED.COM

IMAGESTAMA/GETTYMARIOBYPHOTOGRAPH A reveler dressed as a mermaid prepares for a parade along a storied boardwalk. Turn to page 17 to find out which one. AUGUST 2009 | UNITED.COM 14

wish you were here LAT. 40°34'20.4" N, LONG. 73°58'50.33" W

*** *

They think a heart bypass will require cracking his chest. heartbypass.org | 800-492-5538 advancing the state of the heart.

What they don’t know is that he has a choice. They don’t know that they will fly to the University of Maryland Medical Center in Baltimore where a world-class cardiac surgical team will perform an extremely unique completely robotic and video-controlled b ypass surgery. They don’t know that after this minimally invasive surgery he’ll only have three tiny scars, and that he’ll be back to normal life in just three weeks.

A full-size replica of Noah’s lifeboat is making waves in Hong Kong.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | AUGUST 2009 NOTES FROM ALL OVER

IF THE PAST YEAR’S downpour of bad economic news feels a little like a flood, one might consider the opening this past April of Noah’s Ark on Hong Kong’s Ma Wan island to be well timed. Though by no means the world’s only replica of the Ark (there’s one in the Netherlands, for example, that floats), it’s the only one built to the exact specs (450 feet long, 75 wide and 45 high) detailed in the Bible—except for a couple of elements. For instance, the luxury hotel built atop it, called Noah’s Resort (rooms start at a reasonable $130), the restaurant and the Ark Theatre with “Sensational Surround-Sound.”Accordingtoits creators, who include the billionaire Kwok brothers, the YMCA and a handful of other Christian organizations, Noah’s Ark is meant to “promote family values and teach love, social harmony and care for the environment.” To that end, there are 67 matching pairs of fiberglass animals—elephants, giraffes, kangaroos, tigers, camels, polar bears, etc.—marching, hopping and lumbering two-by-two out of the Ark’s door. There are also lush gardens planted around it and educational exhibits scattered throughout the five-level vessel, which sits on a 270,000-squarefoot plot of land. Guests are invited to “Enjoy a Healthy Retreat” and “Sunbathe on the Beach by the Ark.” Provided, of course, it doesn’t rain.

Hong Kong

ILLUSTRATIONS BY GRAHAM ROUMIEU 17 PRECEDING PAGES: Coney Island, Brooklyn, New York

One young mother of three from Kowloon named Winsome Lau pushes a stroller past the Ark’s looming stern. “This is good for children,” Lau says, as pairs of Noah’s bald eagles and lions look on protectively. “They can see all the beautiful plants and the animals, and they can also learn a message about life.”

dispatchesStateoftheArk

AUGUST 2009 | UNITED.COM

HotcakesLike New York City

Rumors had been swirling for months that Koji was preparing an attack on the New York food scene, but most local street-food mavens still assumed that booking a ﬂight to L.A. would be the only way to sample the legendary Koji kimchi taco. Now chef Roy Choi and crew were truly alighting in Gotham, taking up temporary residence in Jerome Chang’s Dessert Truck—another lauded mobile food operation. Within minutes, every food blog in town had the news up. All of which helps explain the line that forms at 11 the next morning at the corner of Lexington and 55th Street. Someone emerges from the truck and tapes a paper sign bearing the Koji logo to a window, sending a buzz through the crowd. By 11:45, the line stretches nearly to the end of the block. Just before noon a member of the Koji kitchen staff emerges and ﬁres up the crowd with a shout of “Are you hungry?”

It takes something pretty special to upstage battling robot warships and elaborately choreographed Diet Makerconsensusexplosions.Coke-and-MentosButtheatthisyear’sFaire,heldatthe fairgrounds in San Mateo, California, seems to be that the Snail Art Car has pulled it off. Once a 1966 VW Beetle, it’s somehow been transformed into a brass-tinted mollusk with antennae that shoot ﬂames when its creator yanks on a set of leather reins.

“No, Korean tacos,” explains Alice White, a 26-yearold advertising executive who was the ﬁrst in line. “It’s a truck from L.A. that’s here just for an hour.” The guy walks off puzzled. “He thinks we’re all crazy,” she says. —NICHOLAS GILL

Part Burning Man, part science fair, part intergalactic craft show, the Faire, now in its fourth year, attracts gritty bike messenger types and hippies, as well as high-tech workers and code monkeys, who come to see two-story Tesla coils crackling with homemade lightning, soaring air-powered rockets and countless other inventions. But it’s the Snail Art Car, the brainchild of Oakland blacksmith and metalworker Jon Sarriugarte, that’s getting the buzz. The car is an example of a genre known as “steampunk,” a crafts subculture born in the ’90s that marries

That message has generated some controversy, in part because Noah’s Ark happened to open its doors just as the familiar debate over the merits of evolutionary science versus intelligent design began heating up. The city government recently changed the curriculum to include both, in response to which an organization called the Concern Group for Hong Kong Education circulated a petition demanding a sciencebasedMeanwhile,curriculum.Noah’s Ark itself has given up on at least one planned design element: Builders tried to install a permanent rainbow using complicated light refraction, but eventually gave up. The science proved too difficult.

San Mateo, California FULL STEAM AHEAD

Victorianshadowthatoldtoday,”ofnarrowhisproud.havemuttonandsportsSarriugarte,thangadgetsyesterdayWells,ﬁcostumes,turn-of-the-20th-centuryelaboratethespeculativectionofauthorslikeH.G.thetechnologyof(likesteam)andtheofnextweek.“We’remoregearheaddramaclub,”admitswhononethelessanold-timeycapsuspenders,alongwithchopsthatwouldmadeMartinVanBurenHepreferstodescribeaestheticas“oilpunk,”asubsetofsteampunk.“It’sabouttakingthebestyesteryearandusingitheexplains.“Likeglass,steel,leather…stufflasts.”Twentyyardsaway,intheofaself-propelledtownhouseon

ROSEANNE BARRETT

On Sunday, June 7, at precisely 9:16 a.m., a tweet went out. It stated that Kogi BBQ, the much buzzed-about Los Angeles–based mobile food operation (a taco truck)—known for its blend of Mexican and Korean cuisines and its habit of announcing upcoming locations via Twitter—would be making a surprise appearance in Midtown Manhattan for 60 magical minutes, starting at noon, “and then POOF! we’re outta there.”

Finally, at the stroke of noon the window opens, and out they come: $4 plates—one to a customer—of kimchi quesadillas, along with dessert: a paper cup of chocolate mousse with a peanut butter center. The orders are maddeningly small, but sublime. Each serving is quickly devoured. The scene is electric.

As the hour’s end approaches, a desperate Cinderella-at-midnight vibe settles over the unlucky latecomers. “Are you guys waiting for soup or something?” an elderly passerby asks.

dispatches

—JEFFREY STANLEY

ROD 0’CONNOR Washington, D.C. YARDWORK They pluck snap peas. They harvest lettuce. But what the merry band of ﬁfth-graders Eventually, their tasks complete, it’s time to eat. “Who wants to help me over here?” their host calls from a picnic table covered in a red checked tablecloth. (Answer: everyone.) “Come on. Let’s go! Let’s go!” Obama is concerned about what children today are eating, so after the kids take their seats, they wait for servers to deliver a healthy meal of baked chicken, salad, snap peas, brown rice and cupcakes covered in fruit. “Alright. Let’s eat,” Obama says as she sits down. Then she picks up her plastic fork and knife and begins to pound them on the table, leading a chant: “We want to eat! We want to eat!”

Chicago native Gavin Grifﬁn, a top U.S. pro, was a speech pathology major in Texas when he started playing kitchen table poker with friends. He drove to Vegas for the 2004 World Series of Poker, won a tournament in an upset and quit school to go pro. “My parents weren’t real happy about it,” he recalls with a boyish smirk. Now 27, Grifﬁn has earned $4.5 million. Nelly, despite receiving just so-so reviews for his last album, 2008’s Brass Knuckles, insists poker will remain strictly a hobby. “After this,” he says, “I got to get back to work.”

“I’ll stick around for some other games,” he says. “It’s not like other kinds of gambling where you’re just playing against the house. It's personal.”

Rather than seeming chastened after his losses, the multiplatinum artist wants more.

Full House Monte Carlo 19 wheels, David Farish sits in the command position of the Hennepin Crawler, a pedalpowered jalopy with four enormous wheels, which can actually be ridden on railroad tracks. Sporting a rumpled bowler, he chats with a young guy in a white lab coat about how he built his “mutant rideable sculpture” from salvaged lawn furniture and bikeThere’sparts.an unmistakable high-pitched whistle in the distance as an impeccably refurbished green and red 1917 steam locomotive chugs by on the horizon. For a moment, no one speaks as they watch it huff pass.

JANE BLACK from Bancroft Elementary in Washington’s Mount Pleasant neighborhood are most interested in is the tall, elegant woman with storied arms dressed in coralcolored jeans, a flowered cardigan and sneakers. “Aren’t you sick of me already?” she asks them (it’s their third visit this year) as she strides toward the herb patch of her garden—which just happens to be on the White House Apparentlylawn.they aren’t. Under a threatening sky, students dressed in T-shirts and jeans swarm around Michelle Obama. Like a patient traffic cop, or a den mother, or the coolest teacher ever to chaperone a field trip, the first lady directs them to various parts of the garden— first, to gather the enormous rosettes of lettuce, later to wash and weigh the bounty.

“I’m still learning, still messing up,” admits the rap star Nelly, ordering lunch from the snack bar at the Sporting Club in Monte Carlo moments after being bumped from the 2009 European Poker Tour’s grand ﬁnale tournament. Europe’s answer to the U.S.’s World Series of Poker, the EPT is an array of tournaments culminating in a championship, which this year brought 935 players to Monaco, on the Côte d’Azur.

Besides, you have to start somewhere. Isabelle “No Mercy” Mercier had a respectable job as a corporate lawyer in Montreal, but she quit to become a dealer and is now one of the top players in the world, complete with her own clothing line and a memoir currently being adapted by a pair of screenwriters. “I will never go back to law, ever, ever,” she says, relaxing on a plush red sofa in the players lounge. “My message is, if you’re not doing what you’re supposed to do you’re going to be miserable.”

BAR-B DOLL O-Grill / $190 / pro-iroda.com goods 21 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | AUGUST 2009

There was a day when a gas grill was a simple, elegant instrument. It had a top, a bottom and a metal grate in between. It cooked your meats and vegetables, and after a long, hot summer, it collapsed into a rusty pile. Today’s grills, like most other American contraptions, have grown into stainless steel beasts that look seconds away from transforming into world-destroying robots. The O-Grill stands somewhere in between. At only 24 pounds, it’s compact enough to lug to the park or toss in the trunk. The inside is surprisingly large, with 225 square inches of grill space above a 9,450-BTU stainless steel burner. Translation: It can handle a huge steak. For outdoor cooks, the O-Grill raises the steaks.

BY ADAM K. RAYMOND // PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN LAWTON That’s My Grill

1. BAG OF TRICKS Speed your movement through airport security with the Cocoon laptop case—with its GRID-IT! storage system—which allows computers to pass through X-ray machines unmolested. (Hint: Heeding the instructions of time-saver!)isrepresentativesTSAanothergreat / $70 / cocooninnovations.com

2. SIT AND STARE Remember how drivein movie theaters were kind of seedy? The Joybee mini-projector allows you to recall the joys of the movies alfresco without the stale popcorn. And it ﬁts right into your bag. / $499 / benq.com

AUGUGST 2009 | UNITED.COM 22 1 2 4 3 5 3. WIND IT UP With its wind-up crank and tiny solar panels, this three-inch radio will come to the rescue when the battery dies on that fancy phone, GPS or MP3 player that was keeping you entertained and in touch. / $25 / usefulthings.com

4. PALM OF YOUR HAND Now that the initial fervor for the Palm Pré has ebbed, the only smart phone currently capable of challenging the iPhone's reign can be had without waiting in line for a week. Of course, with crisp graphics and elegant apps, waiting would have been perfectly justiﬁed. / $199 / palm.com goods

5. A-PEELING The you’retooffcasecomesultraportablepotassium-ﬁlled,bananainaprotectivethatpeelsrightwhenyou’rereadyeat.Perfectwhenonthego!

Time to shop. Ignore the Yves Saint Laurent and Prada shops and stop at the uniquely French underthingsisDallas.atwhoseboutiques,designsyoucan’tﬁndNordstrominIfsomeoneexpectingslinkyonyourreturn, Sabbia Rosa is the place (73, Rue Saints-Pères)des ( 4:17 ) Hop a cab to the Musée d’Orsay (1, Rue de la musee-orsay.fr)d’Honneur,Légion , the world’s Manet’smuseum.ImpressionistﬁnestartGlanceat Olympia as you head to the roof. Scarf down that tart and take in a view of Sacré-Cœur, le Louvre and l’Arc de promisingTriomphe,yourselfyou’llbeback.( 5:00 )

AUGUST 2009 | UNITED.COM 24 whirlwind Hop the Metro to the vaguestrangerstopRambuteauandaska(inFrench,ofcourse)for“luhpohm-pee-DOO.”Followhisorhergesticulationstotheshiny PompidouCentre , but don’t go in; there’s no time. Instead, take in the jugglers, jesters and bizarre street performers in the plaza outside (centrepompidou.fr) ( 0:35 ) Make like a mime and walk silently to Auberge Nicolas Flamel, a restaurant in a beardedhouse600-year-oldthatthealchemistoncecalledhome (51, Rue de Montmorency, nicolas-flauberge-amel.fr) There’s no gold here, but there is daurade, fondant au chocolat and lots of wine. ( 1:20 ) Head for Musée National Picasso in le Marais (5, Rue de musee-picasso.Thorigny,fr) , a wasneighborhoodhistoricthatoncetheJewishghetto.ThemuseumhousesthousandsofworksbytheshrimpySpaniard,butyou’reherefor Bull’s Head, a minimalist sculpture made out of old bicycle parts. ( 1:55 ) Still hungry? Good, because one of the city’s best croques monsieur—a grilled ham and swiss sandwich that’s like the PB&J of France—is around the corner at Le Sevigne (15, Rue du Parc Royal) ( 2:33 ) Now burn some calories with a walk through the Place des Vosges. Cross over onto the Île Saint-Louis and grab a fresh fruit tart from Calixte (66, Rue Saint-Louis en l’Île) Toss it in your fanny pack, cross the tiny BeaucoupthebridgeSaint-Louisetvoilà,NotreDameCathedral.deflyingbuttresses!( 3:12 ) Feeling sufficiently pious, cross over to the Left Bank and get lost for half an hour. Wander into Saint-Sulpice or le Jardin Luxembourgdu (Rue de Medicis at Boulevard SaintMichel). Just resist the urge to stop at the foryou’reSartreover-touristedhangouts—innomoodthatgodlessness.( 3:42 )

Best coverage claim based on global coverage of U.S. carriers. Activation of international service required. ©2009 AT&T Intellectual Property. Service provided by AT&T Mobility. All rights reserved. AT&T, the AT&T logo, and all other marks contained herein are trademarks of AT&T Intellectual Property and/or AT&T affiliated companies. All other marks contained herein are the property of their respective owners. Coverage not available in all areas. Best coverage worldwide. att.com/global More phones that work in more than 215 countries, like Australia.

LESLIE MANN stars in Funny People, directed by Judd Apatow, now in theaters.

27whereabouts HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | AUGUST 2009

As told to Alison Prato.

“JUDD [APATOW] AND I got married on the big island of Hawaii twelve years ago, and we love to go back there once or twice a year. Our wedding was just the two of us, a woman playing guitar, a minister and, since we had to have a witness, the person from the hotel who put it together. It had begun to seem like we were setting our wedding around everyone else’s schedule. It got complicated, so we decided to run off by ourselves.

Life is so hectic at home that it’s nice to just go there and do nothing. Now whenever we go we take a picture on the beach by the same rock where we got married. Other than that, we eat a lot, play tennis and relax. Is that boring?”

“This is going to sound bad, but we stay at the same resort every time we visit. Actually, I don’t think we’ve ever left the place, except maybe to go to a restaurant in town a couple times, but we’ve never gone to the see a volcano or anything.

The LesliePlacesIGo:Mann

OUTLINEMACPHERSON/CORBISANDREWBYPHOTOGRAPH

BOARDING PASS Whether you prefer big fun on the Big Island or simple relaxation, United gets you there with more than 30 ﬂights a week linking Kona with Los Angeles, San Francisco, Chicago and Denver.

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WHERE TO STAY / WHAT TO SEE / WHEN TO GO HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | AUGUST 2009 29news Flipping Out Eachh AAugust forg the papstt 622 y,yyears, ambitious shhowwmen hhave ggathehredd in Eddinburgh to tellllg inapppproppriatee jojokkeess,, spinn pplaates anddgepnerally embaarrrrasassthgyhemselves, all ffoorr, your entertainmentntThyiss year is no different; the; Edinburgh Festivalg Fringge, a massive, gathhereing ofcoggomemdians, aactoorss, and ddanceres,s iis takikngg, ovvere the SScottishh caapiptatl. FFrom Augustg 7 too 331, tthousands, off ppereformers are puuttttinng on ttensp g off tthoussands oof performancces YoYurchphanaces of ccatchingg every showo are slim,y , bbuutt ggivevnn the stars unncoveered at fesetiivaals ppastt ((MoMntyy Pythoon,y, HHuugh LLaauurie, Steveg , CCoooggann),) it's worthh a sshhoto eedfringe.com FRINGEFESTIVALEDINBURGHOFMARSH/COURTESYTONYBYPHOTOGRAPH

THE WURST //

The Outside Lands Festival in Golden Gate Park celebrates the Bay Area’s two favorite things: guitars and the environment. sfoutsidelands.com

30 15 LOS ANGELES // Party like it's 1996 at the Love Festival, a raging techno dance party. Bring the glow sticks. thelovefestival.com

ON AIR //

The German currywurst is something like the deep-fried Twinkie— a culinarily dubious concoction that people treat like a national treasure. A sliced pork sausage slathered in tomato sauce and curry powder, the dish takes a step toward willPepto-Bismolinside.andExhibits,MuseumopenofmonthrecognitioninternationalthiswhenagroupsausageholicstheCurrywurstinBerlin.artifactssampleswillbeLet’shopevendorsbeoutside. currywurstmuseum.de

In hopes of returning to the days when it was known as “White House North,” D.C.’s Jefferson hotel has undergone renovations to take it from Eisenhower to Obama. It reopens with 99 updated rooms this month, but it’s Plume and Quill, a new restaurant and lounge, that will draw Capitol Hill’s high-powered suits for high-priced meals. The only downside—lobbying rules mean lawmakers have to pay their own way. Thanks, Jack Abramoff. jeffersondc.com

22 GOTHENBURG // Running through the streets of a foreign city in the middle of the night is generally not advised— except during Midnattsloppet, Sweden’s 10K midnight run. midnattsloppet.com

GROUND FORCE ONE //

AUGUSTCALENDAR

JENNINGS/STEVEBYHOLM,JAMESOFCOURTESYHOTEL,MAMILLAOFCOURTESYCHICAGO,OFPYSZKA/CITYL.PATRICKOFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPHSTOP:FROMCLOCKWISE

28–30 SAN FRANCISCO //

LIBRARYFOODCOLLECTION/PHOTOBYJEFFERSON,THEOFCOURTESYWIREIMAGE, LIMESTONE COWBOY // In downtown Jerusalem, where all new buildings must be faced with locally mined Jerusalem stone, the new Mamilla Hotel has embraced the law with uncommon fervor. Not only did architect/designer Piero Lissoni use it on the building’s exterior, he incorporated it throughout the hotel’s luxe interior, resulting in ominous stone-walled rooms with soaring ceilings that look like something straight out of a medieval castle, except for the iPod dock built into the wall. mamillahotel.com

21–23 LONDON // Wear your cut-offs and side ponytails to the 80s Rewind Festival, where graying groupies debate the eternal question: The Cars or The Police? rewindfestival.com

The main attraction at the ﬁrst Chicago Air and Water Show in 1959 was a heart-stopping performance by synchronized swimmers. Fifty years later, the stars have moved from under water to thousands of feet above it. The Air Force Thunderbirds at this year's Air and Water Show will draw millions to Chicago's lakeshore. And yes, the planes will be synchronized. chicagoairandwatershow.us

All prices are subject to availability and change without notice. The Hoakalei Marina Resort, including many major project amenities such as the marina, is currently in the planning stages and is subject to change without notice. The ownership of a home in Ka Makana shall not include any rights to use the golf course. Any membership and other use rights will be subject to such terms and conditions as may be established by the golf course owner. These materials shall not constitute an offer to sell or solicitation of to purchase any state where prior registration is required. by : Haseko Realty, Inc. 91-1001 Kaim alie Street, # 205 BY HASEKO HOMES, INC.

DIRECTIONS From H-1 westbound, take ‘Ewa (5A) exit. From H-1 eastbound, take Waipahu exit. Go south on Fort Weaver Rd. Turn right at Keone‘ula Blvd., and follow the signs to the Ka Makana Sales Pavilion.

Offered

Resort is not a word you’ll find in a kid’s vocabulary. Neither is spa. Or marina or cabana or Ernie Els signature golf. What you will find, however, is a natural affi nity for water, sunlight and adventure. For bikes and best friends. And memories of a magical place that will stay with them forever. Welcome to Ka Makana at Hoakalei – Hawai‘i’s premier year-round resort community.

We invite you to come tour our 22 model homes, including new town home and single-family home designs, all ranging from the high $ 300,000s to over $ 1 million (FS). Open daily from 10am to 5pm. In ‘Ewa Beach, O‘ahu. Learn more at 808-689-4438 and at HoakaleiResidences.com

‘Ewa Beach, Hawai‘i 96706 Tel: 808-689-7772 ext 281 A MASTER-PLANNED COMMUNITY

offers

GROWTH INDUSTRY //

CITY OF BITES

CALVERT/ZUMADAVIDBYIMAGES,MACDIARMID/GETTYPETERBYPHOTOGRAPHSTOP:FROMCLOCKWISE JORDANODAVEOFCOURTESYATHÉNÉE,PLAZAHÔTELOFCOURTESYLECHTE,JAMESOFCOURTESYPRESS,

Though steeped in tradition, Paris’ iconic Palace hotels—homes away from home for princes, prime ministers, tycoons and starlets—are always up to something new in hopes of staying competitive (and at $800 a night, they’d better be). The ground ﬂoor of the Meurice recently emerged from a makeover by Philippe Starck, and sister hotel Plaza Athénée just opened a bright red courtyard covered in intensely green ivy (below), where barman Thierry Hernandez’s creative cocktails make the colors pop even more. Meanwhile, at the elegant Bristol, the big news this summer is Eric Frechon’s promotion to the three-star Michelin club. Unfortunately, his stunning creations come with regal price tags.

STAT-YOU // In the four corners of London’s Trafalgar Square stand four stately plinths. Three of them support the statues of historic British ﬁgures (two generals and a king), and one stands empty. Originally designed to hold an equestrian statue that was never made, the fourth plinth has variously been home to modern art, hordes of pigeons and, coming this fall, you. One & Other is sculptor Antony Gormley’s attempt to create a living, breathing monument where sculpted bronzes might otherwise stand. Throughout August and September and into October, the plinth will be occupied by a different volunteer every hour of every day. That’s 2,400 living sculptures free to perform however they please. There’s only one rule: Don’t shock the Queen. fourthplinth.co.uk

SEPTEMBER 1–6 CANBERRA // Pedalers from across the world watch for kangaroo crossings as they navigate the UCI Mountain Bike World Championships. mtbworldscanberra.com.au

3–7 NEW ORLEANS // Just west of New Orleans lies Morgan City, where the world’s best-named event—the Shrimp & Petroleum Festival—has raged for 74 years. shrimp-petrofest.org

AUGUSTCALENDAR

AUGUST 2009 | UNITED.COM 32

When the Art Institute of Chicago opened the Modern Wing, a $294 million addition designed by famed Italian architect Renzo Piano, it became the second largest art museum in the country (after that darn Metropolitan Museum of Art). The new wing will house a collection of distinctively au courant 20th and 21st century works, including Robert Gober’s Untitled, a tissue box with a pipe going through it, and works by Gerhard Richter (below). artic.edu

31 RENO // Hop a ride out to Black Rock City for eight mindblowing days of Burning Man, a gathering of art, culture and dirt. burningman.com

Palm Tree Pendant with Diamonds$379 Matching Earrings available from $399 Available in 14K Yellow, White or Rose Gold Chain additional OAHU: Ala Moana Center Waikiki Beachwalk Hilton Hawaiian Village MAUI: Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center Lahaina Cannery The Shops at Wailea Whalers Village Front Street (2 locations) Hyatt Regency Maui Grand Wailea Resort KAUAI: Poipu Shopping Village Grand Hyatt Kauai BIGISLANDOFHAWAII: Kona Marketplace Kings’ Shops Hilton Waikoloa Village NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINES: Pride of America BOSTON: Natick Collection Northshore Mall CHICAGO: Oakbrook Center Woodfield Mall DALLAS: NorthPark Center DENVER: Cherry Creek Shopping Center LOSANGELES: Glendale Galleria Northridge Fashion Center ORLANDO: The Mall at Millenia PHILADELPHIA: The Plaza at King of Prussia PLEASANTON: Stoneridge Mall PORTLAND: Washington Square SANDIEGO: Fashion Valley Horton Plaza SANFRANCISCO:Pier 39 SANJOSE: Valley Fair SEATTLE: Bellevue Square WASHINGTON, D.C.: Tysons Corner Center

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | AUGUST 2009 35

Creating a Seattle co-op that imports beans from 400 Rwandan coffee farmers

BY JESSICA MAXWELL PHOTOGRAPH BY JOSE MANDOJANA

AND THE COFFEE? “It’s amazing. We sell Musasa Nectar, a chocolatey, never-bitter highlands coffee, and a caramely, spicy Kivu Bourbon from the lake district. They come with optional African cloth gift bags made by homeless Rwandan women, and they both make a darn good cup of Seattle’scoffee.”

NAME • KARL WEYRAUCH, M.D., 55 MISSION • Helping Rwanda rebuild a viable economy by creating a Seattle-based nonproﬁt, Coffee Rwanda, supporting 400 Rwandan coffee farmers. “The coffee co-op owners in Rwanda speak only French, so they used to sell only to European countries. I used my high school French and founded an American outlet in Seattle (coffeerwanda. com).We also support a team of Rwandan doctors helping the Batwa Pygmies, who are on the verge of extinction. In one village, only 50 percent of Pygmy babies survive infancy. They need medical care, and we can provide it.”

Best hero

MOTIVATION • “I survived some pretty scary heart surgery in 2006, and then I rewrote my life using all my skills as a family physician and a Boy Scout. It’s the most fulﬁlling thing I’ve ever done.”

PITY THE DISORGANIZED. Not only must they (ﬁne, we) go through life—school, work, grocery shopping—in unrelenting befuddlement, they’re constantly being tempted by new gadgets that promise to deliver them from chaos. First came the Trapper Keeper, with its endless array of folders (so you can lose every scrap of homework at once?), then PDAs, with their damnably easy-to-misplace styli.

Time to admit the obvious: We’re doomed.

The latest product promising relief to the organizationally disadvantaged is a free piece of software called Evernote. While it’s still too early to tell if Evernote is going to put PostIt notes out of business, the early numbers look very promising—1.2 million users signed up for the service in its first year, a bigger debut than either Twitter or YouTube.

Those whose idea of organization is a 2005 day planner with the ﬁrst three weeks of January ﬁlled out, or those who’ll eagerly sign up for the service and promptly forget the password?

BY TOM SAMILJAN // ILLUSTRATION BY GRACIA LAM

A cavalcade of raw ego, this site collects the most toself-absorbedpretentiousobnoxious,and‘tweets’everTwittered.Logontoread—orsubmit—examples,ormakesureyou’renotalreadythere. tweetingtoohard.com news from the cutting edge FLIPNOTEHARD RUNPEE

You RememberMust

Turn your brand new Nintendo DSi into a free pocket cartoon studio. Use the stylus to draw images, turn them into animationsﬂip-bookandsendthemtofriendsoruploadthemonline. Free atds/dsiwarenintendo.com/

Evernote’s main function is allowing users to take notes in any form—by snapping pictures, recording audio, capturing web pages or typing words. And unlike a fancy Moleskine notebook, you can’t lose it no matter how hard you try. Thanks to what’s known as cloud computing, every file sent to Evernote is uploaded to a “cloud,” essentially a tech server farm somewhere. From there, files are accessible on just about anything connected to the web—your home or office computer, your laptop, your cell (and eventually maybe your brainstem!). Say you’re browsing for recipes at work and find a good risotto. Clip it into Evernote and view it on your phone while you shop for ingredients. Back at home, pull it up on your laptop and start stirring.

Evernote will help you organize your life, at last. Now if only you can remember what it’s called...

This

It’s the web’s ﬁrst wiki-pee-dia. Taking the guesswork out of moviegoing, RunPee lists movies and their aremissable“PeeTimes,”accompanyingthescenesthatperfectforaquickrestroomrun. runpee.com

The program’s early adopters are fanatical in their praise. But they’re the hard-core efficiency fetishists, the type who’ll cheerfully snap a photo of their car on their way into the Apple store, so Evernote’s geo-tagging feature can help them ﬁnd it later on. But what about the rest of us?

TECH WATCH More

STUDIOTWEETING TOO

AUGUST 2009 | UNITED.COM 36

But what really distinguishes Evernote is its uncanny ability to “read” text contained in images, which allows you to, say, take a shot of a business card and send it to Evernote, which will index the information and render it searchable.

New York writer TOM SAMILJAN actually thrives on chaos.

England’s best young band brings in Queens of the Stone Age’s Josh Homme as producer to explode the band’s adolescent pop-punk sound into cinematic mood pieces ﬁlled with whistling guitars and spooky vocals.

IT'S NOT EASY TO FIND Levon Helm’s farm, up a mountain road that twists through pine and hemlock forests a couple of miles outside Woodstock, New York. There are no street lights, no route markers. The only hint is a “Beware of Bear” sign on a tree by the narrow dirt driveway that leads to Helm’s place. The trip is worth the risk of a bear mauling. For the past ﬁve years, Helm, the legendary drummer and singer for The Band has opened his country barn three, sometimes four Saturday nights a month for what he calls the “Midnight Ramble,” a loose jam for a couple hundred fans and some of his close friends. Helm plays drums and mandolin, and he leads a full band that includes longtime Bob Dylan sideman Larry Campbell on guitar, Helm’s daughter Amy on vocals and whoever else happens through that night, be it

JASON FINE is the executive editor of Rolling Stone. sound Sonny Rollins REEL LIFE Willie Nelson AMERICAN CLASSIC Arctic Monkeys HUMBUG

FULL OF PLUCK Helm on the mandolin

(TOP)RAIALAPAULOFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPH AUGUST 2009 | UNITED.COM ALSO THIS MONTH What else to listen to on the go in August

Barn Burner

Helm’s voice came back. In 2004, he began hosting the Ramble to “get my singing back in shape” and to raise money to pay off his debts (tickets are $150 and sell out fast). He never expected the gig to amount to much, and it shows: There’s no stage, and the audience sits on folding chairs and feasts on a potluck buffet in the barn’s kitchen. On a warm evening in early summer, with the moon shining through the trees outside, Helm performs songs from his new record, Electric Dirt. Tonight, the 11-piece band includes guest Donald Fagen of Steely Dan on piano. Helm beams as he plays his famous shuffling snare rhythm, yelping “Come on!” when the band hits a good groove. After the last song, with the audience still cheering, Helm slips back to his house. As one of his ﬁve dogs, a Staffordshire terrier named Muddy, jumps onto his lap, he sits at a cluttered table in the kitchen and pops open a can of Coke. “This is what I live for,” he says, still grinning. “This joyful noise.”

Thornton.orNorahRobinson,Welch,GillianCostello,ChrisJonesBillyBob“TheRamble’s about nothing but the music,” says Campbell, sitting at the kitchen table after a show in June. “It’s no beauty contest,” adds Helm, who is spry at 69. The Arkansas native ﬁrst arrived in Woodstock in 1967, when The Band was backing Dylan. The group wrote the legendary Basement Tapes with Dylan here, as well as their debut, Music From Big Pink. They split up in 1976, at which point Helm moved back to Woodstock and quietly released solo records for 20 years. In 1998, he was nearly broke when he was diagnosed with throat Legendary drummer Levon Helm’s down-home roots jams have been attracting some very special guests to a barn in rural New York.

BY JASON FINE Jazz’s greatest tenor man gets funky on this reissued ’82 session. Rollins rolls on a lush version of “My Little Brown Book” and on the breezy “Sonny Side Up,” which wouldn’t sound out of place on a Steely Dan disc Nelson’s most recent take on standards has plenty of high moments, especially on the organ-backed “Fly Me to the Moon” and his duet with Norah Jones on “Baby, It’s Cold Outside.” It’s no Stardust, but what is?

cancer and told he’d probably never sing again.“Two things people don’t want are poverty and cancer,” he has said. “And I hadMiraculously,both.”

Elvis

©2009 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Opt for the lines less traveled. Premier Line.SM Purchase access to the Premier ® check-in line, priority security line, and priority boarding. united.com/traveloptions

IT NEVER SEEMED all that promising, really—a prime-time drama about a handful of baby boomers trying to cope with their blessed lives. The series, arriving on DVD this month, revolved around two married couples—one happily, the other less so—and three single friends. It won an Emmy for best drama in its ﬁrst season, was canceled after its fourth and gave birth to a new word (check the dictionary).

David Lynch, the director of creepy, singular ﬁlms like Blue Velvet, took to the highways to ﬁlm short interviews with regular Americans, who offer up tales as, well, Lynchian as anything in his oeuvre. Atdavidlynch.cominterviewproject. Eye-candy

WILLA PASKIN already knows how to kvetch like a thirtysomething despite being just twentysomething.

As a result, thirtysomething’s audience was more passionate than plentiful; the show was simply too honest to be a massive hit. Early on, Herskovitz asked a friend what he thought. “That’s my life,” he said. “Why watch it on TV?”

Admittedly, some viewers found the series a mite whiny—after all, what do all these good looking, well-off Philadelphians have to complain about? But thirtysomething set itself apart by taking relationships and feelings as seriously as CSI takes blood spatters. Two decades later, it remains more intense, insightful, and brutally honest about the difficulties, compromises and pleasures of marriage and friendship than anything currently on the air (watch the episode “Therapy,” about a troubled couple in counseling, and try not to squirm—or sob like a baby).

Yuppie Love

(TOP)ARCHIVESPHOTOABCCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPH

BY WILLA PASKIN

To hear the show’s creators, Marshall Herskovitz and Ed Zwick, tell it, when they began working on the series, they were thirtysomething themselves and every bit as wishy-washy as their standins, Michael and Elliot. They were also Twenty-two years ago, thirtysomething introduced a prosperous, self-involved new demographic. As the show hits DVD, its creators look back fondly.

geometric18-month-olds,forWeeSeeisacollectionofanimatedshortsconsistingentirelyofblack-and-whiteshapes,withamesmerizingscorebyTimDeLaughterofThePolyphonicSpree.

What else to watch on the go in August ALSO THIS MONTH

Yet thirtysomething had a longer run than any of the shows Herskovitz and Zwick have made since. Neither My So Called Life (think teensomething) nor Quarterlife (twentysomething) lasted more than a season. Once and Again (fortysomething) lasted three. So how do they feel about being known for critically adored but doomed series? “It’s always been more my sensibility to be the tragic Byronic hero than the romantic lead,” Zwick laughs. “Although,” Herskovitz chimes in, “I would prefer to be the extremely rich Byronic hero.”

“We just did what we wanted to do,” Zwick adds. “We put it all out there.”

Available on DVD weeseeworld.comfrom Carl Deal and Tia Lessin juxtapose the terrifying footage New Orleans native Kimberly Roberts shot as the Katrina ﬂoodwaters rose, with her wrenching, if uplifting, experience when she returned to the shattered city. On DVD August 25 Interview Project Trouble the Water Wee See vision

so snobby about TV as a medium that “in some perverse way, we hoped to be canceled so we could go back to making ﬁlms,” Herskovitz explains. “We tried to make a show that was so speciﬁc to our experiences that no one else would want to watch it.”

Opt to have your bags meet you there. ©2009 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Door-to-Door Baggage. Send your bags overnight to your destination at the guaranteed lowest price. united.com/traveloptions Pricing that beats the competition. Was $149 Now $ 79BaggageDoor-to-DoorUnited Competitor prices as of 6/18/09. All prices are for a 50 lb. bag shipped overnight from Chicago to Denver. Pricing subject to change. Luggage Free $ 225 Luggage Forward® $ 207

// BY AARON GELL

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MiddlePromisesEastern

This is How The Elephant Keeper The Venus FixersALSO THIS MONTH What else to read on the go in August AUGUST 2009 | UNITED.COM print

“After the destruction of the Second Temple, the rabbis found a way to take the Jews’ spiritual capital and turn it into a story, a book, which made it portable and indestructible. That’s why it survived.”

After being dumped by his ﬁancée, a tightly wound auto mechanic attempts to hit the reset button by moving to a small English seaside village in acclaimedbasedManchester-author M.J. Hyland’s haunting third novel. But a steady drip of small humiliations sends him over the edge. ChristopherNicholson ’s enchanting debut novel, a sort of neo-Dumbo fairy tale set in 18th century England, is the story of a 12-year-old boy who becomes the keeper of a pair of young elephants, newly arrived from India. He befriends the female and devotes his life to her care. As World War II raged around them, a small group of allied ofﬁcers embarked on a mission to protect the cultural treasures of Italy. Author Ilaria Dagnini Brey’s account of their exploits makes for a fascinating footnote to the war years, when the fate of civilization itself seemed to hang in the balance.

Cohen devours history the way a zayde (Jewish grandfather) tears into a pastrami on rye—a fact that becomes apparent on a walk through the neighborhood, once the center of Jewish life in New York. He stops abruptly on Norfolk Street. “This is the spot!” he says, gesturing at the pavement in front of us. “Right here is where Louis Lepke pulled a drive-by on Jacob ‘Little Augie’ Orgen and his bodyguard Legs Diamond.”Toughcharacters all, they ran at the Deacon, too.

With Israel is Real, his impressionistic history of the Holy Land, author Rich Cohen maps the region’s ever-shifting sands.

“SOMETIMES YOU’VE GOT TO RUN at the Deacon.” That’s what Herb Cohen used to say whenever his son, Rich, a hockey jock growing up in the suburbs of Chicago, was facing down a big challenge. The reference wasn’t to a church official (the Cohens are Jewish) but to implacable NFL defensive end Deacon Jones. Running at the Deacon means facing an obstacle head on, confronting what scares or upsets you. It’s an approach Rich Cohen has often taken in his writing, first with the critically acclaimed 1999 history Tough Jews, which reveled in the tales of gangsters like Meyer Lansky and Bugsy Siegel that Jews of an older generation might have preferred to forget, and more recently with Sweet and Low, a notably unflattering memoir of his family’s misadventures in the artificial sweetener business, which didn’t air his relatives’ dirty laundry so much as slip into it like a hand-me-down suit. With his latest book, Israel is Real: An Obsessive Quest to Understand the Jewish Nation and its History, the author, a contributing editor for Rolling Stone and Vanity Fair, has run at the Deacon in a very big way, courting controversy in his search for catharsis.

“I think anyone being honest is going to be controversial, especially about a topic people care about,” the author explains over coffee on New York’s Lower East Side. The result is a feverishly wrought, passionate and riveting history of Jerusalem, from its origins as an ancient kingdom—sacked by Rome in 70 A.D., the Israelites scattered to the winds—to a “city of the mind,” as he puts it, detached from geography to live instead as a metaphor for two millennia, and ﬁnally to the contested capital of a modern state (hence the book’s title). “There were a lot of nation-states in the ancient world that had state religions,” Cohen observes.

Pork has long been among the most common of barnyard meats, but an epicurean fashion has elevated it to the top shelf of haute cuisine.

It's hard to say exactly when this humble creature became so trendy. It may have started around the time superchefs Mario Batali and David Chang introduced their exhilarating takes on Tuscan roasts, pillowy pork buns and inventively resuscitated butcherThoughscraps.pork is forbidden to observant Jews, Muslims and vegetarians, in the larger foodie universe, prosciutto, charcuterie and bellies are buzzwords that cause Pavlovian responses. In part, pork is beloved for its simplicity. “For chefs, the emphasis is on making things that are delicious, and pork just makes a very natural entry into that,” says Andrew Fortgang, general manager and sommelier at Le Pigeon, a Portland, Oregon, restaurant whose menu boasts a corn bread dessert with apricots and bacon topped by maple ice cream and lardons. For those who value deliciousness above all else, the marketing campaign labeling pork “the other white meat” seems like lunacy—after all, who gets excited about a meat prone to curling into dry, dreary slabs? Dissatisfaction

High on the Hog

SPLAYED ON THE METAL butcher’s counter at The Brooklyn Kitchen is a vivid glimpse of the pork revival. Half a pig—complete with ears, tail, trotters and most everything else—is lying skindown. Standing over it wielding a chef’s blade is Tom Mylan, a genial fellow clad in a protective layer of chain mail and a blood-smeared apron. Mylan is teaching a dozen rapt spectators a seminar on hog butchery, but he’s actually part of a much larger renaissance of swine. These days, pork is no longer just chops and ribs and dinner-table boilerplate; it’s become an epicurean centerpiece. Spots for today’s seminar sold out online in just 25 Slappingminutes.theanimal’s ribs for emphasis, Mylan praises the pedigreed Ossabaw-Tamworth hog as the “perfect pig” and cautions that birdshot occasionally ends up in the meat due to the breed’s propensity for escaping their pens and terrorizing neighboring farms. Using the knife and a small saw, he quickly segments the beast into parts recognizable from the average supermarket aisle—butt, picnic ham, tenderloin, sirloin—as he describes the best ways to roast, cure, smoke and fry each cut. His pupils include an amateur sausagemaker, a couple who already butcher their own venison and a dude named Dave who just “likes to eat pig.”

BY BEN DETRICK // ILLUSTRATION BY JACK UNRUH

“In the farm days, everybody used everything. That makes the pig a magical animal.”

FLOUR + WATER San asparagusBraisedFranciscoporkcheekwithsweetpea,andchard

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | AUGUST 2009 with commercial pork is part of what’s spurred domestic production of topshelf breeds like red wattle, Tamworth and six-spotted Berkshire—all pigs valued for their marbled meat and muscle structure. “They just have so much more ﬂavor than they used to,” says Donald Link, the chef behind acclaimed New Orleans restaurants Cochon and Herbsaint. “They’re surpassing chicken and squab.” To paraphrase the porcine dictator in George Orwell’s Animal Farm, some pigs are more equal than others. The increasing availability of whole pigs with imperial lineage has raised interest in using every part of the animal—even ones considered butcher’s leftovers (or off al). “Chefs are becoming really smart,” says Heather Hyman of Heritage Foods USA, a company that works with independent breeders to promote genetic diversity and humane production. “They’re not just taking the 10-rib rack to make a chop. Now that they’re getting what the French get, they’re creating charcuterie and cured meats and blowing up menus with pork bellyThedishes.”elevation of “lesser cuts” to the level of modern culinary art is really a return to tradition. “I’m not creating anything new,” says Chris Cosentino, executive chef at San Francisco’s Incanto and founder of salumi company Boccalone. “I’m reviving ancient recipes that people just don’t recognize anymore. Back in the farm days, everybody used everything. That makes the pig a magical animal.”

Few have beneﬁted more directly from this bacon explosion than Jason Day and Aaron Chronister, a pair of bloggers who invented something called, well, “Bacon Explosion.” A swinish monstrosity comprising two pounds of sausage stuffed with bacon and wrapped in a hammock woven from the same, the dish premiered on their BBQ Addicts website and then grew into an internet sensation. Viewed equally as a joke and an instruction manual for an instant coronary, it was featured in The New York Times and earned the two a lucrative book deal. “I personally like bacon a lot, so it’s good to see it get such press and publicity,” says Day, who never anticipated the fervor their recipe would stir up in the swine-craving masses. “I mean, who’s not going to like a good bacon weave?”

BOCH/PHOTOLIBRARYBILLBYPHOTOGRAPH

BEN DETRICK is on a quest to ﬁnd the world’s best pork-and-chive dumpling. 45food & drink

“I believe the interest has always been there. It was just never identiﬁed,” says Dan Philips, who founded a mail-order Bacon of the Month club in 1997, which now has thousands of members. “Bacon is arguably as American as apple pie.”

PORCHETTA New York Porchetta wrapped(Hampshiresandwichloininaroll) BABBO New York Pig foot “Milanese” with rice, beans and arugula

And Feast, a Houston restaurant specializing in such lesser cuts, was nominated by the James Beard Foundation for “America’s best new restaurant” in 2008. With all the emphasis on obscure pieces of the pig, it’s easy to forget the populist power and nostalgic charm of bacon. This beloved ancillary ingredient—prized burger topping, “B” in a BLT, dynamic accompaniment to a batch of scrambled eggs—has spent the past few years mutating into a ﬂavor enhancer of stunning ubiquity. Like some freakish offspring from Dr. Moreau’s test kitchen, it has been covered in chocolate, infused into vodka, crystallized into salt and swirled into spreadable Baconnaise. Some bloggers even moan that bacon has been endorsed too wholeheartedly by the hipster set, sucked into the same vortex of irony as Pabst Blue Ribbon.

“I’m not creating anything new,” one chef says.

THIS LITTLE PIGGY The top pork dishes in America 31 42 1 2 3 4

At Porchetta, a tiny restaurant in New York City’s East Village, the tiled ﬂoors and cramped counters are watched over by a huge spray-painted stencil of a handsome hog. Well-heeled food snobs sit patiently elbow-to-elbow with loud, wobbly bar-hoppers. What brings these two very different classes together is a simple dish—tender cubes of slowroasted Hampshire loin dusted with fennel pollen and wrapped in a roll, for just $9—that couples a haute pedigree and a down-home presentation. Both culinary sophisticates and hot dog fans agree: It’s simply delicious.

FEAST CrispyHoustonroasted pork belly with potato cake and red cabbage with apples

And while some parts of the pig may seem less than magical—bellies, trotters and brains, for instance—diners don’t seem to mind. “When I put that belly on the menu, I never thought anybody would order it,” recalls Link. “And all of a sudden, I can’t take it off.” His “ultimate pork and beans” at Cochon includes marinated belly, bacon, white beans and basil salsa verde. Batali, perhaps the most renowned proponent of “variety meats,” has been thrilling diners for over a decade at Manhattan’s Babbo Ristorante e Enoteca with pigs’ feet and “head cheese” (which isn’t cheese at all, but pieces of meat from a pig or cow’s head rubbed with spices).

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STARDUST MEMORIES Robert Whitehead and Zoe Caldwell in 1968

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | AUGUST 2009 47

After the death of their legendary father, two theater scions take their 73-year-old mother on a road trip through the desert. On Harleys.

// BY SAM WHITEHEAD

diary

Mother Courage

HE DID NOT GO QUIETLY into that good night. Far from it. My father, Robert Whitehead, was an elegant character, a revered Broadway producer who put on original works by Arthur Miller, Tennessee Williams, Eugene O’Neill and Harold Pinter, among others. He was also one hell of a guy who worked and played hard until the very end. But he was a ﬂat-out pain in the neck during the months leading up to his death at 86. “You can’t die on a Saturday,” he liked to say. “Nobody reads the Sunday obituaries.” Conveniently, he held on till Sunday and got himself a full page in The New York Times. I remember running to the end of the driveway to pick up the paper, then sitting on a rock on our property and reading all about my most crazy and beloved friend. One of his last requests was that we not hold a memorial service, but rather throw a little party at the old Broadway hangout Sardi’s. “Get some friends together, serve some booze and Savoy sandwiches,” he said. “And make sure there’s a guy playing the damn piano.” His theater friends took things a bit further than that. First they dimmed all the marquee lights on Broadway in his honor. Then they strong-armed my mom, my brother and me into organizing a huge, star-studded memorial at the Majestic Theater. It was followed, of course, by a party at Sardi’s, with booze and Savoy sandwiches in great supply and, yes, a guy at the piano. It was all pretty exhausting and particularly hard on my mom, the actress Zoe Caldwell, who soldiered through the festivities, only later succumbing to melancholy. “When he died, I died,” she admitted when it was all done. An overdramatic proclamation, perhaps, but Mom has won four Tonys for being able to deliver lines like that. It was then that my brother, Charlie, and I decided we needed to shake her out of her funk. By any means necessary.

WHITEHEADSAMOFCOURTESYOTHERSALL(BOTTOM);COLLECTIONEVERETTBYPHOTOGRAPHS

AUGUST 2009 | UNITED.COM

The choice of New Mexico wasn’t entirely random. Thirty-two years prior to our motorcycle campaign, Dad had briefly transplanted the family to Santa Fe while trying out a little show called A Texas Trilogy, by Preston Jones. Charlie was five, and I was eight. It was Christmas, and all we wanted was to head out into the desert. While visiting Bandelier National Monument, I tumbled from a cliff, ping-ponged off a few ancient Anasazi dwellings and sustained a nice concussion before coming to rest. Not to be upstaged, a short while later Charlie was playing around on some pointy brick structure and tripped, falling head first onto the masonry, leading to a hospital visit and 36 stitches in his forehead. With that history in mind, we decided to ease Mom in gently this time. We reserved a suite for her at The Bishop’s Lodge, a first-rate Santa Fe adobe palace chock full of every spa amenity you could conjure. We even called ahead and made sure her room was riddled with ristras. With Mom bathed in mud, Charlie and I picked up the bikes. The rental shop was an old Ford dealership with an expansive, mostly empty showroom. Not a speck of grease, gas or oil anywhere. The rental guy seemed cool enough, if a little twitchy, but the two bikes he had looked as if they might have rocked the scene at Altamont in ’69. One featured a hacked exhaust pipe that spit flames and torched any piece of leg that wasn’t well placed. The other came with no front fender, no turn signals, crooked handlebars and a dicey brake light. We roared into the hotel parking lot as Mom emerged from her suite wearing dainty sneakers, white linen pants, a red-and-white-striped Venetian gondolier’s top and a wide-brimmed straw hat. It was a stylish look for sure, but not exactly ideal for the task at hand.

ROAD WARRIORS

We chose a motorcycle road trip through the Southwest not only because Charlie and I both love bikes but because we figured eating desert dust for a few weeks would be the perfect way to put some distance, literally and figuratively, between Mom and the stylish New York life she and Dad had built together. If 2,000 miles of asphalt didn't do the trick, nothing would. Did I mention she was 73 and no great fan of “Well,motorcycles?atleastIstill have one son,” she’d declared the day I brought home my first Harley, summoning the same unsettling conviction she used while playing Medea back in 1984 (“Death! Death! Death!”). Charlie bought his bike a few weeks later, which meant she had no sons. (My father, who had squired her around town on a Honda 650 on their first night out, just muttered, “My God, don’t you boys get into enough trouble as it Eventually,is?”) I did manage to coax Mom onto the back of my motorcycle for a quick jaunt around town. But she had yet to face a real dust-eating hell ride replete with rain, breakdowns, bad food, marauding tractor trailers and all the other glories of the road. “A motorcycle journey,” she exclaimed when we brought up the idea. “That sounds lovely. We must eat at marvelous restaurants and stay at the best hotels. And I’ll get a massage every day.” She also mentioned something about being surrounded by ristras, the bright red bunches of dried chile peppers that hang everywhere in New Mexico. “They’ll make things awfully jolly, won’t they?”

Charlie and Sam Whitehead with Zoe Caldwell on two trips out West

“Did you get Mom the riding gear?” I askedHe“Nope.Charlie.You?”andIquickly obtained second-rate gear at the local army-navy store and gave the good stuff to Mom. Suddenly she resembled a real “prospect,” as outlaw biker gangs refer to aspiring members—leather, denim, chains and all. A set of brass knuckles and she’d be set. Perhaps it was out of guilt that we decided on one last spa before setting out, in the foothills outside of town. Ten Thousand Waves is famous for something called watsu, an aquatic form of bodywork that stretches your limbs and is meant to make you feel as if you

ON OUR WAY NORTHWEST up to Telluride, we made sure to hit a few of the favorites—canyons, mud baths and such. It was Mom’s ﬁrst full day on a motorcycle and she rode like a true old lady—high praise in biker parlance. At one point we came across a weathered New Mexico highway worker who refused to believe she was not the legendary artist Georgia O’Keeffe, famous for her ultrafeminine abstractions, even though O’Keeffe had died in 1986 at 98. “I love your work,” he said as we sat at the ﬁve-minute, one-way stop light and our mom, ever the actress, began to morph into the late painter, for whom she’s always had tremendous respect. The man seemed pleased with his star sighting and might have offered her a canvas if he’d had one handy. Just as the whole scene was getting ridiculous, and before Mom confessed to her joke, the light turned green and we were off. (Later, to commemorate the trip, I got a tattoo of an O’Keeffe cow skull. Mom usually winces at my ink, but she loved this one. “It’s so delicate,” she remarked. “I think it has your dad’s eyes.”)

SAM WHITEHEAD lives and writes in New York, where he labors arduously to conceal his status as a “theater scion.”

have re-emerged from the womb. Needless to say it was Mom’s idea. Thankfully, she didn’t overplay the metaphor. Here’s how watsu works: You’re cradled by a therapist in a hot pool while being gently manipulated. It puts you in a glorious stupor. It’s also a bit homoerotic, or maybe it just seemed that way because our therapist was chiseled and sporting a Speedo and was clutching me in a vaguely amorous fashion. It was time to get back on the road.

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“It’s marvelous,” she said, gazing out over the gray horizon.“Quite biblical.” Eventually we made it to Telluride, before bolting back to Santa Fe and our twitchy little rental pal. Mom emerged from the ride more invigorated and stronger than ever. In fact, I now worry that she might steal off with one of my motorcycles someday. “How amazing!” our newly minted road hog proclaimed after her ﬁnal dismount. “Your dad never would have taken me on a trip like this.” That’s not entirely true. But he didn’t. Instead he took her everywhere else. Bust out the booze and Savoy sandwiches. And for heaven’s sake, someone cue the damn piano player.

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We spent that night at a nice hotel in Pagosa Springs, Colorado, where we took in a rodeo. From there it was a skirt through the San Juan National Forest to Durango. Another night, another hotel, another rodeo. The next evening, I floated the idea of trying out a mechanical bull at a bar. To my surprise, Mom volunteered to be first up. As she climbed aboard, I clasped my hands and gave the operator a please-begentle look. He took the hint, and Mom got off unscathed. Charlie too. I wasn’t so lucky. The steer wrangler clearly had it in for me. Within seconds, I’d flown into the western night and landed on my wrist. Lesson learned: Stick to the motorcycle.Inall,itwas a fairly smooth ride. That is, until we blasted into a hailstorm during our march toward Gunnison, Colorado, and its astonishing Black Canyon. As the stuff came down in sheets, we huddled together under an outcropping. We were soaked and miserable. I thought of Dad and what he might make of our supposedly relaxing little adventure. I looked nervously at my mom, wondering how she was holding up. Although she hadn’t actually died when he had, it seemed her idiot sons were now set to finish her off But she was smiling. In fact, she seemed electrified, perhaps remembering her single days as a vagabond actress—a “mad gypsy,” as she often put it, of the theater world.

As Mom mounted the mechanical bull I clasped my hands and gave the operator a please-be-gentle look.

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“It’s never easy for a lobsterman to meet someone out of the blue,” says Brendan Ready, one of two brothers whose company, Catch a Piece of Maine, sells shares in individual lobster traps to clients across the country at prices that range from $69 for a share of one day’s catch to $3,000 for an entire season’s haul. “But the ladies and Curt hit it off. He still calls them, and they’re coming to visit him again this year.”

The economic downturn has hit just about every industry in the world, but few as hard as the sturdy Maine lobster ﬁshery. After decades of doing everything right, lobstermen are about hit bottom. Can innovation save their trade? EDWARD LEWINE BY JÖRN KASPUHL

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | AUGUST 2009

THE FIRST THING the women noticed was how small the dock was. Mother, daughter and granddaughter had driven to Portland last year from Pennsylvania to meet the lobsterman who’d been catching their dinner. They were expecting to find him at a large commercial fishing plant. Instead, they arrived at Hobson’s Wharf, a modest wooden pier in the Old Port with a few boats bobbing beside it, and saw a rugged-looking young man named Curt Brown waiting for them in filthy bibAtoveralls.first,conversation was awkward.

Think of it as a kind of barnacled twist on Michael Pollan’s adoption of a steer in 2006’s seminal organic food bible, The Omnivore’s Dilemma, and the resulting “Yuppie, meet your food” phenomenon. If waiters can tell diners where their steak was raised, the Readys reason, and organic farmers can sell their greens in city squares, why can’t a few crustacean-crazed gourmands get to know their lobstermen? And as long as it sells a few more lobsters, the people in Maine are happy to go along. The truth is, these days the lobstermen need all the help they can get. You may not realize it from the price of lobster at your local ﬁshmonger, but Downeast Maine is crawling with these extravagant arthropods—literally crawling with them—and that’s a leading cause of a near-cataclysmic recession now hitting the region’s lobster ﬁshery. Times are so tough that the famously stolid lobster industry is resorting to some extreme steps to stave off collapse, in some cases, even borrowing from the more progressive, touchy-feely world of sustainable foods. industry

The Lobster Trap

// ILLUSTRATION

// BY

“You’re covered in mud and seaweed, and at first you feel a little strange having people taking your picture and asking questions,” says Robert Springer, one of the eight lobstermen who sell part of their haul through Catch a Piece of Maine. “But it doesn’t bother me, and I know people enjoy finding out about the lobsterBrendanbusiness.”Ready, 27, and his brother John, 28, say they had around 3,000 customers in 2008, their first year. The key, they say, is to show that lobster is both a sustainable product and one with real personality. When the Readys’ customers buy into a haul, they’re invited to learn about the actual lobstermen who’ll be doing the hauling.

“We’veindustrygotplenty of lobsters these days. But if we can’t sell them, then it’s the lobstermen who are going to be the endangered species.”

“October was the low,” Holden recalls, adding that business at casinos and cruise ships—which account for a significant portion of Maine lobster sales—also bottomed out. “We had people calling us with lobsters for sale at around $2.50 a pound. That’s a mid1980s wholesale price.” How is it that as every other fishery is suffering from empty nets, lobster traps are overflowing? According to Carl Wilson, the chief lobster biologist for the state of Maine, the 2008 catch was around 63 million pounds, close to the largest on record. (A standard haul in the 1980s was around 20 million pounds.) The glut, according to Wilson, is the result of three factors: the over-fishing of cod, which is among the lobster’s most important predators; the gradual warming of the water in the Gulf of Maine, which speeds lobster growth; and, ironically, the conscientious conservation efforts of the“Whatlobstermen.asituation,” says Robin Alden, 52

AUGUST 2009 | UNITED.COM

EDWARDS/REDUXFRANKPETERBYPHOTOGRAPHS

There was even an old law on the books forbidding wardens from feeding prisoners too much lobster. In the late 19th century, lobsters started to become a prized catch. Since the 1950s, the number of lobstermen working the Maine grounds has swelled to around 5,800. For most of the last decade, lobstermen benefited from rising prices. In hindsight, however, says Jeff Holden, from his desk above the factory floor of the Portland Shellfish Company (one of only a handful of Maine businesses— the rest are in Canada—that process lobster meat for shipment), the Great Lobster Price Collapse of 2008 began right after New Year’s. Oil prices soared, raising the cost of fueling a lobster boat and lowering the discretionary spending of the dining public.

PIER PRESSURE Predawn preparations at the public wharf in Stonington, Maine CATCH THEM IF YOU CAN Last year, Maine lobsterman hauled in 63 million pounds.

There was a time, not so long ago, when lobsters were so plentiful in Maine that farmers used to mulch them by the wagonload to fertilize more proﬁtable crops like potatoes and corn.

There are pictures and bios up on the Catch a Piece of Maine website: Ted Gilﬁllan prefers ﬁshing in smaller boats that can navigate shallow waters; Jeb Stuart is a grandfather of four who named his boat Babe, after his mother; Robert Springer is an increasingly rare third-generation lobsterman. It’s sort of like a farmers market meets Match.com. “We decided to develop the lobstermen themselves as characters,” John Ready Meanwhile,says.in tiny Port Clyde, Linda L. Bean, who happens to be on the board of L.L. Bean Inc., is taking a very different marketing approach. Rather than elevating the product, she’s taking advantage of the glut by turning lobster into an everyday food. Under her “Linda Bean’s Perfect Maine” banner, she’s started what will by 2010 be an East Coast chain of lobster roll restaurants stretching from Port Clyde to Delray Beach,“We’veFlorida.gotplenty of lobsters these days,” Bean says. “But if we can’t sell them, then it’s the lobstermen who are going to be the endangered species.”

That’s little consolation to the lobstermen who work from the piers of the Old Port, though. And those are the people Bean and the Readys—and their customers at Catch a Piece of Maine— are concerned about. “My savings are gone,” says Robert Springer. “I have less help and I run the boat slower to save fuel. It’s been demoralizing, but I see what is happening to people all over the country. I have a job. I’m still standing and I’ll make it through.”

53 the executive director of The Penobscot East Resource Center, a nonproﬁt that promotes sustainable ﬁsheries. “The Maine lobstermen have done everything right, and suddenly the business isn’t there for them. Now the foreclosures are starting to happen.”

If the economic downturn persists— and most think it will—a sizable portion of Maine’s lobstermen, lobster dealers and lobster processors will go out of Fewbusiness.peopledoubt the coming years are going to be painful, but Patrice McCarron, executive director of the Maine Lobstermen’s Association, believes there’s hope. “We sold every lobster in 2008 in the middle of the world economy crashing,” says McCarron, “and that is astounding.”

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Contributing writer EDWARD LEWINE regrets to say that no lobsters were eaten in the reporting of this story. 864-1733

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1. A Sequence of Words 2. Grammar and Rhetoric 3. Propositions and Meaning 4. How Sentences Grow 5. Adjectival Steps 6. The Rhythm of Cumulative Syntax 7. Direction of Modification 8. Coordinate, Subordinate, and Mixed Patterns 9. Coordinate Cumulative Sentences 10. Subordinate and Mixed Cumulatives 11. Prompts of Comparison 12. Prompts of Explanation 13. The Riddle of Prose Rhythm 14. Cumulative Syntax to Create Suspense 15. Degrees of Suspensiveness 16. The Mechanics of Delay 17. Prefab Patterns for Suspense 18. Balanced Sentences and Balanced Forms 19. The Rhythm of Twos 20. The Rhythm of Threes 21. Balanced Series and Serial Balances 22. Master Sentences 23. Sentences in Sequence 24. Sentences and Prose Style Building Great Sentences: Exploring the Writer’s Craft Building Great Sentences: Exploring the Writer’s Craft Great writing begins—and ends—with the sentence. Understanding ways to construct sentences is important to enhancing your appreciation of great writing and potentially improving your own. Get the answers to your questions about writing and style in Building Great Sentences: Exploring the Writer’s Craft. In these lively 24 lectures taught by Professor Brooks Landon of The University of Iowa—one of the nation’s top writing schools—you explore the myriad ways we think about, talk about, and write sentences. It’s a journey that gives you unique insights into the nature of great writing. It also teaches you how to achieve some of this greatness yourself. This course is one of The Great Courses®, a noncredit recorded college lecture series from The Teaching Company®. Award-winning professors of a wide array of subjects in the sciences and the liberal arts have made more than 300 college-level courses that are available now on our website.

These supersize rackets are absurdly forgiving, even if they look a little ridiculous in your hand. The other day, we played three sets with one while eating an entire plate of General Tso’s chicken—with chopsticks. But as much as we love our fancy modern racket, we wonder if it’s not a little like ﬁshing with a hand grenade. Somehow it makes a mockery of the tennis fundamentals—move your feet, keep your racket back—that Dad taught us 30 years ago. It’s time to reconsider tennis technology before it corrodes the game we love. It’s time to bring back wood. Yes, wood. You know, that space-age material cultivated from exotic ﬂora calledOddly,trees.wood was used to make tennis sports 55 rackets for generations, until aggravated hackers—some just like me—decided they didn’t want to hit every third shot into the parking lot. But wood makes tennis a purer game. It was so uncompromising, it forced a tennis player to be much more skillful, almost artistic. You couldn’t just stick a wooden racket out and plop the ball across the net, you had to guide it there. The wood racket was heavier, with a smaller face and a thick, unwieldy neck. You had to carry it as an extension of your body—hold it close, grip it properly and take it out to dinner at least once a Watchingmonth.professional tennis players today, you can’t help but wonder how they’d manage with the old equipment. Tennis is lucky right now to have Wooden It Be Nice?

From carbon-ﬁber tennis rackets to titanium drivers, modern technology has made sports easier to play—and duller to watch.

IF YOU’RE LIKE US, you enjoy a casual game of tennis in the summer. We’re not talking about sweaty, grunting, anaerobic tennis, running all over the court and diving for volleys. That’s for lunatics. We’re talking about lazy, friendly asthat’smagazineandMadeyouit’sandBudweduring-changeoverslet-the-ball-bounce-twice,tennis—forget-to-keep-score,cocktails-tennis.Sometimesdon’tevenwaitforthechangeovers.Collins,meetTomCollins.That’sthetypeoftennisweplay,thankstocutting-edgetechnology,becomeeasierthanever.Havegrippedamoderntennisracket?withmaterialslikecarbonﬁbergraphite,itweighslessthantheyou’reholding.Theface—thebigpart,withthestrings—issprawlingasaMidwesternstate.

BY JASON GAY ILLUSTRATION BY BARRY BLITT

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | AUGUST 2009

HOCKEY Goalies used to play without face masks. That’s way too dangerous, but right now the keepers wear more padding than NFL cheerleaders. They could stand to lose a little bit of that goal-stopping protection. We also hear that back in the day, hockey used to—get this—allow the players to actually ﬁght. Guys would drop their gloves and go at it right there on the ice, sometimes multiple players at once. Good thing they don’t allow that anymore!

JASON GAY ’s father, Ward, has coached high school tennis for 30 years. He can still crush his son on the court.

IMAGESWILSON/GETTYBRADIMAGES,FREEMAN/NBAE/GETTYSTEVENIMAGES,VISHWANAT/GETTYDILIPBYPHOTOGRAPHSLEFT,FROM

It’s hard to believe the forward pass, a.k.a. the “pass,” was once illegal in football, which used to resemble ultraviolent rugby. Legalized by the NFL in 1906, the forward pass is set to be adopted by the Detroit Lions in 2010. No one wants to watch Kobe and LeBron play keepaway. Since the shot clock’s introduction in the 1950s, there are no more 25-22 ﬁnal scores, and games have sped way up—except for the last two minutes, which still take nine hours.

Federer’s one guy who might embrace the change. The Swiss champ swings a small-headed racket that bears a passing resemblance to its wooden forefathers, and his nimble game is a throwback. He’s also played exhibition games of real tennis, a bizarre 12th-ish century version of the game thought to be the original racket sport, which awards points for hitting the ball through a courtside window. (Not kidding.) But let’s not stop with the wooden rackets, people. Every professional sport could use a dose of demodernization: BASEBALL Yes, baseball has wooden bats. It’s a nice, retro touch. But let’s return to the days of one-out innings— you can watch an entire game in an hour! Forbid gloves, too (okay, maybe it will take longer than an hour). And here’s an offense-boosting idea: The pitchers must throw to batters underhanded. You know, just like the Baltimore Orioles do.

So: Wood-racket tennis, anyone? We’ll bring the lime juice and cigars.

Three innovations that rocked the world of pro sports The use of steroids actually dates back to ancient Greece, but they didn’t play a role in American sports until the 1950s. They’ve been banned since the ’70s, when pro athletes switched to Wheaties. Right Barry? Barry? ANABOLIC STEROIDS24-SECOND SHOT CLOCK FORWARD PASS

GOLF This game has benefited more from modern technology than even tennis. Have you seen those new drivers? They have heads the size of flatscreen TVs. Balls come with everything but anti-water radar detection. The game has lost its way as it tries to flatter (and suck the money out of) the weekend enthusiast. How about going back to actually making woods out of wood? Moving the tees back? Growing longer roughs? That might lead to rounds of…nine-hour golf. Never mind.

a surplus of great champions—the remarkable Roger Federer and his young nemesis Rafael Nadal, and on the women’s side, stars like Maria Sharapova and the indefatigable Williams sisters. All are uncommonly gifted; most would’ve been great players in prior generations. But you have to admit, the game is a smidge easier for them thanks to the tech. Wouldn’t you want to see them at least try wood?

Please don’t misunderstand: We’re not hard-core traditionalists. We don’t mind night baseball at Wrigley or the NFL’s wildcard playoff format. We’re not giving back our carbon-ﬁber bicycle, our DirectTV football package, our glow-in-the-dark Frisbee or Wii tennis. We’re even fans of modern games such as indoor football, mixed martial arts and Battle of the Network Stars But it’s worth recalling that sports are supposed to be sporting. Frustration is part of the game. Getting challenged means getting better, and rules shouldn’t change just to make things easier. Likewise, technology can help, but it shouldn’t be a big, fat-faced crutch.

We’d also like to eliminate backboards, like in the old days, though some fans would get hit in the head with jump shots at Clippers games.

56 sports

FOOTBALL This one’s tricky. We want to keep players safe, and we’re not sure if we want to see all 270 pounds of Shawne Merriman chasing Eli Manning in a leather helmet. We’d like to retain the forward pass and even teach it to the Detroit Lions. But let’s move the goal posts to the front of the end zone and return ﬁeld goals to their original ﬁve points. And how about encouraging more drop-kicking—as Bill Belichick knows, it’s still legal.

BASKETBALL Yup, bring back the peach baskets. Who wouldn’t want to see Kobe Bryant charge down the lane for a ferocious dunk, and then watch Dwight Howard have to putter up a stepladder to retrieve the ball? Sure, it would slow the game down, but think of all the Nike-branded ladders Home Depot could sell. We’d also like to eliminate backboards (they didn’t have ’em in the old days), though a lot of fans would get hit in the head with jump shots at Clippers games.

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Father’s reply made the blood flow hot in our veins. We had always thought him to be the strongest and the most wonderful man, and his reply further confirmed this belief. It also gave us sufficient confidence to brag to other children: “Our dad operates on himself.” My brother would point at me, and add, “The two of us hold up a big mirror…”

BY YU HUA

AN EXCERPT, TRANSLATED FROM THE CHINESE BY ALLAN H. BARR Appendix QIGONG, BEIJING , 1996, FROM THE SERIES THE CHINESE, © LIU ZHENG, COURTESY YOSSI MILO GALLERY, NY

MY FATHER USED TO BE A SURGEON. He would often stand at the operating table for 10 hours at a time. He told us that everyone had an appendix in his belly, and that every day he had to remove at least 20 appendixes. His fastest time was 15 minutes. We asked, “What do you do with it after cutting it off ?” “We throw it away,” he said, waving his hand dismissively. “An appendix isn’t worth a damn. The lungs, the stomach, the heart, as well as the duodenum, the colon, the large intestine and whatnot all have their function. Do you know what the appendix is good for?” My brother had an answer ready. “The appendix isn’t worth a damn,” he said. My father burst out laughing, and our mother laughed, too. He went on, “That’s right. But if the appendix gets inﬂamed, the stomach will ache more and more, and if the appendix is perforated, it will cause peritonitis, and that can be fatal. You understand, fatal?” My brother nodded. “It’ll kill you.” I gasped. My father said, “So long as there’s no perforation, there’s no danger. There was a British surgeon…” As my father spoke, he lay back. He said that one day the British surgeon arrived on a small island, one with no hospital or doctor, not even a medical kit. His appendix became inﬂamed, and he

FROM “APPENDIX,” TRANSLATION OF “LAN WEI,” FIRST PUBLISHED IN WORDS WITHOUT BORDERS MAY 2004. © ALLAN H. BARR. FOR THE REST OF THE STORY, SEE WORDSWITHOUTBORDERS.ORG.

lay underneath a palm tree, racked with pain. He knew that if treatment were delayed, he would soon die.

“The British surgeon had no choice but to operate on himself. He had two locals hold up a large mirror, and looking at himself, in this particular spot”—he pointed at the right side of his abdomen—“he made an incision, put his hand in, searched for the caecum—you need to locate the caecum in order to ﬁnd theThisappendix…”incredible story left us dumbstruck. We looked at our father excitedly and asked him if he could operate on himself, just like the British surgeon. Our father said, “That depends on the situation. If I was on that little island and my appendix was inﬂamed, to save my own life I would operate on myself, too.”

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63 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | AUGUST 2009 The Clarks have been running a trained bear show in New Hampshire for decades. One dividend: Family members knit their own bear-fur mittens. artifact 70P. 64 THE HUNTERTREASURE Searching the seas for medical miracles By Stephan Talty 70 THE COMETHWOLFMAN A hair-raising tale of trains and tourism By Matt Thompson 78 3PD: VICTORIA Taking on raucousColumbia’sBritishonce-capital By Melissa NixGIUNTA/HEMISPHERESERINBYPHOTOGRAPH

MNUITED.COUUAGST2009 64

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The scenery ﬂying by the boat is almost ludicrously beautiful; low-lying islands cut into a turquoise ocean. Nicolas Cage owns an island about a half-mile away. It’s reportedly on the market for $7 million.

Big Pharma is a secretive business. As Slattery pushes the boat into the water, he is circumspect about the tunicate’s medicinal potential, mumbling something about “some parameters that relate to its biomedical side of things that I really can’t talk about right now.”

SEA CREATURE //

From left, the Perry Institute tropical marine laboratory on Lee Stocking Island in the Bahamas; Marc Slattery preparing for a dive; and, opposite, exploring the reefs off the Exumas

But as he got back farther and farther into the black tangle of caves, the 49-year-old began looking around and realized that, like Alice, he had tumbled into a hidden world. All along the walls of the blue hole were marine species that no one had ever seen before. (Eventually, he would identify seven new species of sponge in that single hole). For a marine ecologist, which is what Slattery is, it was like being Facebook-friended by Angelina Jolie. But Slattery isn’t an ordinary marine ecologist.

SLATTERYMARC1998,

MNUITEDCOUUAGST2009 66

Back at the University of Mississippi, where Slattery is a professor at the pharmacy school, he is the object of badly disguised envy. “They’re like, ‘Oh my God, I can’t believe you get paid to do this,’” Slattery says, grinning beneath his water-flecked sunglasses. The waters he’s churning through are old pirate haunts, and you might think that finding the next big malaria drug would be a little like finding Captain Morgan’s famous lost treasure—enough to make Slattery wildly rich. Not exactly. A drug on your pharmacy shelf found himself, like Alice in Wonderland, descending into a hole. In Slattery’s case, it was a “blue hole,” one of the water-filled caves in the Bahamian banks that extend hundreds of feet into solid rock. Though they sound refreshing and pleasant, once you dive into one, you realize the name isn’t quite accurate: They are actually suffocatingly narrow black holes, and swimming through one gives you the strong impression that you will never get out again. Slattery is claustrophobic. And as the blackness closed in, he began to have second thoughts about the entire blue hole experience: I’m not an idiot, he thought. What am I doing here? People will say at least he died doing something he loved, but I don’t want to die doing something I love, not without my wife beside me…

He’s a cure hunter. For the past 20-odd years, he has been scouring the ocean ﬂoor for organisms that will be turned into medicines for ﬁghting everything from cancer to AIDS-related illnesses.

What he can say is that the tunicate has, over millennia, developed chemicals that help it resist being eaten by ﬁsh and/or invaded by microbes, and that what works for the sea squirt may work for us. “If they’re preventing microbes from landing on them,” shouts Slattery above the roar of the boat’s engine, “the same thing might work in the human body— preventing bacteria from landing on a heart valve, for instance.”

Slattery’s work takes him to the loveliest, most dangerous places in the world, all of them under water. “Seventy-ﬁve percent of our planet is seawater,” says Slattery. “And ultimately, the cure for just about everything will be found under the ocean.” Today the scientist is steering a motorboat away from the dock at the Perry Institute, a cutting-edge marine research center on Lee Stocking Island in the Bahamas’ Exuma Cays. He’s on a search for the tunicates, a.k.a. sea squirts, among the most advanced of the invertebrates. The tunicate is the next hot drug prospect. He wears a thick wet suit, has his scuba gear stowed and carries a handheld GPS with a promising location locked in. Slattery talks like an academic—he seriously does go on about fungi—but grew up snorkeling the Jamaican reefs and looks more like a scuba bum than anything else.

The reason the professor chooses such out-of-the-way places for his dives is that they’re fresh. Researchers have scoured the shallow reefs for three decades; they’re picked clean. As is terra ﬁrma, for that matter, which Big Pharma has been harvesting for 100 years. Slattery examines the sea squirt, which looks like a piece of thin, rubbery AstroTurf, shiny green on top and white underneath. “We’ve had really good luck against cancer with these things,” he says, stowing it away.

The “hit rate” for terrestrial plants and animals—the percentage of finds that are medically promising—is .1 percent. Slattery’s number? Ten percent. Many marine organisms, stuck to the ocean floor, can’t run away from their predators, so they have to produce novel defenses to survive. And they’re pulling in chemicals (boron and chloride, for instance) that land-based organisms can’t access. That’s what makes themSincespecial.marine-based medicine is so new, there is only one ocean-derived product on the market right now. It’s called Prialt, a painkiller 1,000 times more potent than morphine, with none of the addictiveness. It’s made from the deadly magician’s cone snail found in the South Pacific. Essentially, the venom the snail employs to stun fish is used in humans to stop nerve cells from sending pain signals to the brain.

But Slattery does have his worries. Money in government-funded science is tight right now.

DEEP IMPACT // From far left, Marc Slattery resurfacing after a dive; watching a student at work at the Perry Institute lab; and an array of vibrant coral and sponges

Slattery and his team have half a dozen compounds making their way through the testing process, and back at Ole Miss, there are 5,000 samples, a vast seed bank for future medicines.

represents about a half-billion dollar investment. When Slattery ﬁnds a promising compound in the ocean, he licenses it to a pharmaceutical company, which will spend about 20 years ushering it through lab, animal and human trials before bringing it to market. If and when it ever actually sells, the discoverer and the host country where the original compound was found will each receive a share of the proﬁts. But Slattery’s not in it for the money.

UUAGST2009

Because he’s employed by the University of Mississippi, his share will go to the institution. “They might throw me a bonus,” he says, laughing. “It’s not my retirement fund by any means.” Slattery checks the GPS and peers down into the water. “We’re here.”

MHEISPHERESMAGAZINECOM

Author of the new disease thriller The Illustrious Dead, STEPHAN TALTY is always willing to visit the most beautiful spots on the planet—for science.

Today’s location is called the Horseshoe, a sand flat surrounded by a ring of dark coral. He straps on his single canister and his flippers, checks his hoses and splashes into the 74-degree water in search of tunicates. Underwater, coral heads wave in the slow current. Schools of blue tang and striped Nassau grouper drift by, while a torpedolike barracuda lazes around 15 feet away, looking interested. Slattery spots his prey stuck to the top of a coral and swims toward it, yellow net in one hand. He’s looking for a nice big specimen that will peel easily off the rock. This isn’t it. The sea squirt is stuck fast to the coral. Slattery, his eyes looking a little maniacal beneath the red lenses of his mask, begins to peel off one-inch bits and plunk them into his bag. After 10 minutes of finger-bending work, he gives the thumbs-up and points toward theThesurface.professor and his wife, Deb, an expert in sponge diseases, spend six months a year doing dives just like this one. The work has its hazards: On a trip to Hawaii, locals told him about warriors in the time of King Kamehameha the Great who would dip their spears into tide pools, coating the tips with the poison of the palythoa toxica, which excretes a paralyzing agent a thousand times more potent thanTherebotulism.isalsothe Michael Crichton scenario: a microbe found at 300 feet attacking researchers once they get it back to the lab. (“One fungus makes me puff up just looking at it,” Slattery admits.)

National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration funding, and it’s currently trying to ﬁnd someone else to support its work. And the coral itself is under threat. “If I grew up seeing them like they are now,” he says, “I’d probably work in an office today.” Meanwhile, global warming is pushing him into different marine habitats in search of new hunting grounds. As he searches for a cure for AIDS-related illnesses, Slattery is watching the oceans sicken.

The professor guns the engine toward another site. His team calls it the Washing Machine, for its turbulent currents. Beyond the sapphire-colored depths ahead is nothing but ocean and then the east coast of Africa. Eventually, that is where Slattery is headed. Deep water.

A few weeks ago, two seven-foot reef sharks tore apart a ﬁsh a fellow researcher was bringing out of the water, and they almost tore her apart, too. And in Antarctica in 1989, chasing soft-shell corals, the professor was knocked off his guide rope and found himself being pulled away from the hole in the ice by a two-knot current... “I swam like hell,” he remembers, after climbing back on the boat. “What we do is dangerous, no question.”

One marine lab Slattery works with recently lost

INTO THE WOODS // Wolfman Tim Ryan is allergic to city slickers.

✦ PHOTOGRAPHS

IN THE WILDS OF NEW HAMPSHIRE, THERE LIVES A MAN. HE DOESN’T MUCH LIKE CITY FOLK. OR TRAINS. BUT PEOPLE COME FROM FAR AND WIDE TO SEE HIM, TO PEER INTO HIS EYES, TO QUAKE WITH FEAR AT HIS CRAZED UTTERANCES. HE’S THE WOLFMAN OF CLARK’S TRADING POST, AND THIS IS HIS STORY. BY DAVID CICCONI BY MATT THOMPSON HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COMAUGUST2009 THE WOLFMAN COMETH 71

DAVE CLARK IS CONCERNED FOR MY WELL-BEING. “REMEMBER THAT THE BRAKES ARE KIND OF SQUISHY,”

Edward’s sons, Murray and Ed, wound up marrying two of the sisters, and both couples moved into the family house across the street, which is where

Clark runs the engine shop at Clark’s Trading Post in Lincoln, New Hampshire, a family-owned and -operated roadside attraction nestled in the crook of the White Mountains. “You sure you’re up for this?” he asks. I’m sure. It’s a unique opportunity. For some 30 years, the Wolfman act, a sort of improv sketch viewed from a moving vehicle, has been a mainstay at Clark’s.

AUGUSTUNITED.COM200972 brick pathways. Like South Dakota’s Wall Drug, California’s Trees of Mystery, Florida’s Monkey Jungle and Arizona’s Meteor Crater, Clark’s demented charm and sepia-toned oddity hearken back to a bygone era of car trips. If you don’t remember it, your parents probably do. The Trading Post’s patriarch is 82-year-old W. Murray Clark. One of two sons of the original owners (Edward and Florence), he has lived across the street from the business just about all his life. Sitting on a green bench under a pair of gnarled trees, he tells me the Clarks’ story. Murray was a newborn when his parents rented a fallow ﬁeld in TRUE NORTH // Clark’s Trading Post, in Lincoln, New Hampshire, has been open for eight decades; Nikki, a inright,M.photosSaloon;Theemployee,Clark’satPeppermintvintageofEdwardClark.ToptheWolfmanaction ✦ the granite-faced mechanic tells me, standing beside the ancient roadster in which I’m seated. “So don’t go too fast; it’s not a race. The important thing is to stay back from the train. God forbid you get hit, and besides, people can see you better when you’re a bit further away. Also, the kids will try to spit on you.”

Altogether, this grizzled prospector, charged with terrifying and amusing passengers on Clark's steam train—has been played by 32 people, most recently Bill Farrand, who howled at trains for 15 years until lung disease forced his retirement. I want to be No. 33. It won’t be easy. Among the qualiﬁcations listed on the want ad, I lack the following: a beard, knowledge of ﬁrearms, knowledge of vehicle maintenance, good physical condition and a willingness to “remain somewhat ‘unkempt’ for the season.”

Lincoln, New Hampshire. Though the family reputation was originally built on dog sledding—Florence became the ﬁrst woman to climb Mount Washington with a team of huskies—they soon hit upon the idea of turning the kennel itself into a tourist attraction, Ed Clark’s Eskimo Sled Dog Ranch. Edward hired four sisters to guide tours through the dog cages and work concessions, and he acquired a pair of black bears from a trainer in Indianhead as a bonus.

On the other hand, I have a high tolerance for humiliation and an eagerness to participate in what is surely one of the last remaining unfocus-grouped, not-entirely-PC summer entertainments in the United States. I turn the car on. Its engine clatters to life like Satan’s own lawn mower, and I zoom off across the parking lot, the wind in my hair and a smattering of bugs in my face. After ﬁve minutes I return. “Let’s do this,” I tell him. In operation since 1928, Clark’s Trading Post is one of the oldest and last remaining tourist attractions of its kind in America. A sort of ad hoc amusement park, it boasts train rides, antique cars, a two-headed calf, an ice cream parlor, Segway tours and a troupe of Chinese acrobats, in addition to the main draw, a family of trained bears. Since its inception, the business has been run by the same clan, with the fourth generation of Clarks now manning the snack bar counter and sweeping the

It’s clear that Anne is hoping that his gravel-voiced fury will rub off on them.

all nine of the third generation spent their childhoods. “We were playing with bear cubs from, like, age eight on,” Murray’s daughter Maureen—who currently runs the bear show with her brother Murray—tells me. “Sometimes we’d even sleep beside them.”

“What’s that thing you used to say?” she asks him. Bill clears his throat. “Pigeon lickin’, city slickin’ hodags,” he replies. I ask him what a hodag is. “It’s a monster from Wisconsin,” he replies.

From there, Clark’s Trading Post expanded according to the obsessions of various family members. When Murray and Ed became interested in steam trains during the 1950s, they bought one and laid tracks out into the woods along the Pemigewasset River. When Maureen went to photography school, they added an old-timey photo parlor. In time, bumper boats, an optical illusion house, and collections of antique cars, tools, and toys were added to the mix.

The Wolfman was the invention of Leon Noel, a maintenance worker and engineer hired fresh out of high school, who created the character in 1973. “The train was so boring for kids,” he tells me. “One day I borrowed one of the Clarks’ old Model T Snow Machines, ﬁlled a Jim Beam bottle up with water, and came ﬂying down toward the train screaming at the top of my lungs. The kids just stared, shocked. As I passed the engineer, I caught his eye, and instantly I could tell I’d overdone it.” Later, Leon tried again, sans whiskey bottle. “This time,” he tells me, “I held back a little. The engineer gave me a thumbs-up.”

IT’S A CRISP, CLEAR MORNING IN early May when Bill Farrand, the newly retired Wolfman, joins me and Dave’s sister Anne for a preseason ride on the steam train. Decked out in a Survivor T-shirt, a fishing vest and a ratty orange fox-fur hat, he watches as a pair of woodsy types decked out in animal pelts come zooming down to meet the train, screaming bloody murder and setting off flares. He shakes his head. “Tell them to fire the shotgun earlier,” he says. Anne nods solemnly. She’s training two new wolfmen, and so far it isn’t going well. After a spate of microphone issues, she’s had to deal with a roadster breakdown and a pair of mountain men who can’t seem to stop shouting over each other. Earlier today, Bill made one last run as the Wolfman to inspire the new recruits.

“In the early days, we’d just take the bears out of their cages, gather people around and perform right at your feet,” Murray adds. “Sometimes they’d go running through the crowd into our gift shop, just tearing down everything they could from the counters.” Needless to say, the act was a huge success.

DO THE LOCOMOTION Train engineer Leon Noel, the original Wolfman

LAWS OF ATTRACTION // Some of the Clark family, gathered around a vintage Thunderbird; bear trainer Maureen Clark with Victoria; visitors taking in the bear show; and the author with Wolfman Tim Ryan ✦

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Tim and Jon nod seriously, their foreheads streaked with dirt. Anne, a hearty blond-haired woman in her late 40s, handles her two filthy protégés with the same no-nonsense aplomb she uses with the small army of teenage female employees she oversees. “I guess I’m kind of the mother hen,” she tells me. “The kids love working here. We’ll throw safe parties for them, and my sons have people over all the time. Sometimes I’ll wake up in the middle of the night to find someone sleeping on the couch and think, ‘I wonder who that is. They’d better be on timeIndeed,tomorrow.’”thereis a sort of summercamp feel to employment at Clark’s. By the end of my first day there, many staff members know me by name. One of them, a red-haired college girl named Rachel, has worked at the business for five years running. “Clark’s basically is what there is to do in Lincoln,” she tells me. “There’s this annual softball game against Storyland, and that’s a big deal. Their staff is a lot of Europeans who don’t know the first thing about the sport, so we always destroy them.”

Still, running an 81-year-old roadside attraction isn’t all fun and games. As Dave, Anne and I chat in the machine shop—an industrially cluttered room accented with massive wrenches and antique train parts—conversation turns toward the ailing economy. “The last ﬁve years our proﬁts have been…” Dave begins, making a downward sloping line with his hand. “People keep saying that the economic downturn will make more people turn to local places like us for their vacations. We’re really hoping that happens this year.” When I look over at Anne, there are tears in her eyes.

OVER BY THE LOCKERS, I GET into costume with rookie Wolfman Tim Ryan, who has a missing front tooth, piercing blue eyes and a beard down to his stomach. Ryan has brought some innovations to the job. “I’ve been singing songs with the lyrics changed around to be about the Wolfman,” he tells me. “I do a version of Johnny Cash’s ‘I Walk the Line’ and ‘Javert’s Suicide’ from Les Miserables.” A ﬁftysomething carpenter from Pittsﬁeld, he decided to apply for the gig when construction work dried up. “It’s great to be outside all day, interacting with kids,” he tells me. Ryan got the position through an open casting at Lincoln’s high school gymnasium, where he showed up with a homemade

Meanwhile, Anne has summoned new hires Tim Ryan and Jon Smith over for a powwow. “I’d really like it if you could tell the engineer to turn the train around when you ﬁrst see him,” she says. “And don’t forget to ﬁre that shotgun.”

FOR SEVERAL MINUTES, ALL IS PEACEFUL, JUST THE WIND IN THE TREES AND THE ITCH OF THE FAKE BEARD AGAINST MY SKIN.

ax and a chewed-up child’s shoe on a string around his neck. “I worked on the costume off and on for a week,” he tells me. “I really needed a job.” Ryan picks out an off-the-shoulder fake fur pelt for me, along with an eye patch and a curly gray beard. I pick up a raccoon cap from the gift shop. The effect is hyperbolic and absurd—more Yosemite Sam than Deliverance In the woods, Ryan parks the car beside an old shack marked “Danger High Voltage!” and lights a cigar. He points at a bucket of charcoal and tells me to grab a piece and grind it into powder. “Now,” he says, “What I do is spit in it and then smear it onto my skin.” I work up a thick, black paste and am soon covered in a grimy film of filth. He checks his watch. “We’ve got about five minutes,” he tells me. “There’ll be two quick whistle blasts and then the train is on its way.” We get into our respective roadsters and listen to the thrum of their sputtering engines. For several minutes all is peaceful, just the wind in the trees and the itch of the fake beard against my skin. The whistle blasts, and moments later we can see the train coming through the trees, five red and green cars packed with alternately thrilled and terrified children. Ryan throws his car into gear and zips down the hill. I’m right behind him. Pulling up beside the train, I jump out, waving a club. “You better turn this train around!” I shout. Above me, a five-year-old passes, his hand grabbing his head in mortal terror. His father brandishes a camera, a quizzical smile on his face. After the train passes, Ryan and I jump into our roadsters and pursue it down a dirt path through the woods. My car skids over the gravel and sand. The eye patch, though tricked out with tiny holes, instantly blinds me, and I can barely navigate the deep ruts and sharp turns of the trail. Soon we’ve arrived at our next stop. As the train passes, Ryan fires off a shotgun. I light a flare in an old naval mine, burning my thumb, but as I join Ryan in shouting at the train, I can hardly feel it. I have no idea what I’m saying. For a second, I've become the Wolfman, driven wild by the faces—city slickin’ hodags—staring down 77 at me. I hope I’m not cursing. At our last point of ambush, as the train slips away toward the station, I jog alongside, directly in the spit zone, brandishing my club at individual faces. Their reactions are priceless: A mother smiles and roles her eyes. A young girl sticks out her tongue. Two teenagers, feigning indifference, flash me a fake gang sign. The Wolfman is something you have to respond to, I realize. He’s like a big, grimy mirror reflecting your capacity for amusement. At the back of the last car, two children aim popguns at me and scream at the top of their lungs. They are thrilled beyond all coherence, their faces lit up in a kind of pagan rapture. Behind them, their parents point as well, more reserved but bellowing warnings just the same. As they shrink into the distance, I wonder how young they were the first time they came to Clark’s.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COMAUGUST2009

In the end, MATT THOMPSON didn’t get the Wolfman gig, perhaps due to a secret love of steam trains.

Chicago,Manchester,betweenN.H.,andandbetweenManchesterandWashington,D.C.

BOARDING PASS

Clark’s Trading Post is a short trip away with United, which offers frequent nonstop service

POLE POSITION First Nation totem poles at Butchart Gardens

81 DAY ONE Strolling promenadetheof the Inner Harbor 85 DAY TWO Biking to the wharfs and whale-watchinggoing 86 DAY THREE Driving to surroundingthehills and touring vineyards Once a rugged outpost, the serene and surprisingly balmy city of Victoria, British Columbia, is an island home to bicycle trails, whale pods and Native American culture. // BY MELISSA NIX 3 Perfect Days 79 Victoria,HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COMB.C.|AUGUST2009

QUEEN VICTORIA Clockwise, from opposite, the Inner Harbor, with the stone parapets of Parliament in the distance; a quiet moment in Beacon Hill Park; barking at the paragliders along Dallas Road; and, below, a totem pole stands before Parliament.

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DAY ONE You awaken in your room on the top ﬂoor of The Oswego (1), a sleek boutique hotel in the quiet neighborhood of James Bay. From the balcony you breathe in the warm air and scan the snow-crested Olympic mountain range and the Strait of Juan de Fuca, a 95-mile passage that connects Puget Sound with the Paciﬁc. In the O Bistro café downstairs, have a coffee and some fresh strawberries, then saunter down to the harbor and the core of Old Town. Victoria is the capital of British Columbia, a fact that’s impossible to overlook as you reach the waterfront. Towering above you, the iconic copper-domed Parliament (2) is an exemplar of Baroque and Romanesque architecture, so well wrought it could serve as the backdrop of a bodice-ripper. Francis Mawson Rattenbury, a starcrossed English architect, moved to Vancouver in 1891 and designed the legislature, which was completed seven years later. (Perhaps he

VICTORIA IS QUIET. ALMOST TOO QUIET. Stand near the grandiose Parliament building at the Inner Harbor, and it’s impossible to imagine that this perfectly mannered island city was once a rough-and-tumble gold mining hub, a sprawling carnival of disorder populated by industrious native Inuit and Métis traders, miners, Chinese opium smugglers, thieves and all manner of accompanying riffraff But today, all that remains of those times are the First Nations, descendants of the area’s original tribal inhabitants. The carnival is gone, replaced by a town as charming and peaceful as it was once restless. As for the riffraff, let’s just say they retired. In fact, of today’s 78,000 resident Victorians, a disproportionately large number are seniors, drawn by the region’s remarkably mild weather, which allows for year-round gardening and golf. Some call Victoria “the Boca of Canada,” but anyone who expects swarms of battery-powered Rascal scooters and blue-hairs lining up for the early-bird special will be surprised. The city exudes youthful energy. Cyclists, kayakers and avid joggers abound. And if there is an early-bird special to be found, chances are it’s made with organic, locally grown produce. Victoria still retains some of its frontier town DNA. Sure, the tempo is a touch more subdued, but First Nations people remain an integral part of Victoria’s community and cultural life, and the area’s roots can be seen in its raw, breathtaking surroundings: the jagged Olympic Mountains, the dramatic Strait of Juan de Fuca and the rolling Paciﬁc beyond. There are still pioneers here; they’re just better fed and far more civilized.

3PD VICTORIA

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should have retired in Victoria: His second wife’s lover murdered him in London in 1935.)

Follow Queen Elizabeth’s footsteps up toward the Fairmont and then make your way down Wharf Street to Willie’s Bakery & Café (4), British Columbia’s oldest bakery. Willie’s is often patronized by celebs taking breaks from ﬁlm shoots in Vancouver— high-watt personae like Pamela Anderson, Colin Firth and Bill Nighy (who even has a special jar of jam kept for him under the coffee counter).

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A century ago, steamships were tied up along docks now crowded with yachts. Back then, members of the British royal family visited regularly, arriving by boat and climbing the nearby steps to the grand Fairmont Empress Resort Hotel (3).

An ivy-clad classical chateau with turrets and other gothic touches, the Fairmont was also built by poor Rattenbury, whose ghost is said to haunt its hallways. (See “Ghostly Victoria,” page 83.)

BILL COWEN // OWNER, STUDIO 16 1/2 // “I love the culture here. It’s creative, welcoming and optimistic. Something not to miss in Victoria: Street Level Espresso at 714 Fort Street. The café is run by an amazing local artist named Ken Gordon. And the espresso will wire you.”

PROMENADE QUEEN Clockwise from opposite, the regal Fairmont Empress, designed by the same architect who drafted Parliament, overlooks the Inner Harbor’s promenade; Willie’s Bakery & Café at night; the narrow lanes and gaslights of Fan Tan Alley BY CAROLINE

ILLUSTRATIONS

Have a shot of espresso; you’re going shopping. In Lower Johnson Street (a.k.a. LoJo) (5), a hip enclave peppered with independent shops, you ﬁnd Hemingway, a girly boutique ﬁlled with silky dresses, perfectly cut shifts and necklaces heavy with charms. A few doors down is Hemp & Company, which makes everything out of you guessed it, and beyond that is Flavour, a vintage clothier that’ll tempt you with such gems as $15 Doc Martens (a perfect gift for your nephew, the one who recently discovered eyeliner).

To calm your nerves, you’ll want something hearty for lunch. Try Fort Street, home to several eateries and still more antique shops. Choux Choux Charcuterie (7) catches your eye, and the hearty pheasant paté sandwich with caramelized onions

ESRA

RØISE 3PD VICTORIA

You’ve done your family duty; now it’s time for some culture. Make a left at Government Street and step through the ornate Gate of Harmonious Interest and into the oldest Chinatown in Canada (and the second oldest in North America, after San Francisco’s). Bypass the bustling dim sum joints and head to Fan Tan Alley (6), officially the continent’s narrowest commercial lane, to take in the locally produced artworks at Studio 16 ½. Next door on this wee thoroughfare is the highly esoteric Triple Spiral Metaphysical Store, the proprietor of which is a practicing Wiccan. It’s said that the city has more witches per capita than anywhere in Canada. Spooky.

Seagulls scatter as you descend Parliament’s steps to the Inner Harbor’s long promenade. Hawker stalls sell First Nation–inspired feathered dream catchers and beaded jewelry and generally bad art. You do the right thing and walk on past it.

HOG WILD Luke Young, the owner of Choux Choux Charcuterie, shoulders his wares.

TO YOUR HEALTH! Simple dishes at the brewpub Spinnakers; and a selection of teas at Silk Road and tangy Dijon will set you back only $6. Double back down Fort Street and stop in at Silk Road Aromatherapy & Tea Co. (8), where you can sip some hand-blended pu-erh tea while you wait your turn for a signature green tea facial. (You, too, guys. Good skincare knows no gender.) Then make your way to The Fairmont Empress for a predinner drink on the veranda. Try the Empress 1908 Cocktail, or, if you’re in the mood for something spicy, Rattenbury’s Bloody Caesar, made with housemade tomato and clam juice. Hail a taxi to Spinnakers (9), a brewpub opened in 1984—Canada’s ﬁrst—and dig into grilled line-caught Paciﬁc salmon. Spinnaker’s has a 280-degree view of the harbor and a lively after-dinner scene. After downing a couple of powerful Canadian brews with your festive new Victorian pals, it occurs to you gauzily that the remaining 80 degrees are taken up by the massive brewing vats.

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The disembodied sound of a little girl laughing, as well as the clacking of high heels striking the ceiling above. Manager Mark Harrison reports chocolates thrown at him, lights going out and cabinets closing by themselves. Echoes of mufﬂed footsteps and dragging chains. The ghost of the city’s hanging judge, Sir Matthew Baillie Begbie, has been spotted on numerous occasions in Bastion Square, which is considered the most haunted part of Victoria. Otherworldly howling resounding from the island and crossing the Upper reportedFishermenHarbor.havealsoseeingﬂashesoflightthroughtheisland’strees.

Francis byarchitect,Rattenbury,Mawsonthehotel’swasmurderedhissecondwife’sloverin1935.

The oldest chocolate maker in Canada Once the city’s gallows, bodies of the condemned were buried beneath it—and remain there still.

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Victoria is known for its abundance of spooky lore, and while apparitions are said to inhabit some of the city’s top tourist spots, they don’t appear to be troubled by guests— so long as they mind their manners.

THE FAIRMONT EMPRESSROGERS’ CHOCOLATESBASTION SQUAREDEADMAN’S ISLAND

DAY TWO Begin your day with an omelet, smoked salmon and deliciously fresh blueberry muesli and yogurt in the Empress Room. Dillon, the highly capable concierge, suggests you visit Beacon Hill Park for a sense of why Victoria is called the “City of Gardens.” He arranges for you to pick up a bike rental from Cycle BC (1), and you join the steady stream of riders wheeling their way through the powerwalking grannies to the leafy embrace of Beacon Hill Park (2). You pass weeping willow trees and hundreds of rose bushes on your way to the Children’s Farm, where you befriend a chatty baby goat. As you leave, nod to the suspicious albino peacock that guards the exit, who gruffly displays his dazzling ivory plumage.

VICTORIAGHOSTLY

In 1867, teenagers swim here and set ﬁre to a First Nations’ burial ground.

IF CLOSELY,LISTENYOUYOU’LLHEAR...THELORE

AUGUST 2009

85 DANIELA CUBELIC // CO-OWNER, SILK ROAD AROMATHERAPY & TEA CO. // “It’s a great walking city, and the buildings have a sort of heritage charm, and that’s incredibly visually appealing. I’m also a huge foodie, and the culinary community here is amazing. On Fort Street, one of my favorite places, I’ll visit Plenty, an epicurean pantry.”

The cuckolded ghost walking the parquet ﬂoors of this luxe haven, rata-tatting his cane along the way.

Victorians wander past walking their dogs and tossing breadcrumbs at pigeons. Watching the jade water crashing on the rocks below, you think seafood, and as it happens, the best fish and chips in town are a quick ride away at Barb’s Place (3) on Fisherman’s Wharf. Gaze longingly at the fishing boats and houseboats lining the wharf as you wolf down fresh fried halibut and fries. Thus fortified, you’re ready to head out to sea. But first, stop in at The Strath Ale, Wine & Spirits Merchants and pick up a bottle of a local riesling. The hills on the peninsula are crawling with vineyards, and the regional wines are surprisingly good. Park your bike at the Prince of Whales (4) whale-watching company. Three resident orca pods call the Straits home, and your mission is to meet each one. For the next three hours, you watch from the deck as the killer whales flap their tails to attract mates and make a meal of a seal or two. (Sorry, but they don’t call them killer whales for nothing.) You pop the cork, sip luxuriantly, take in the steep cliffs nearby, and toast your luck for having been born more or less atop the food chain. Back on dry land, you feel the need to wash off the salt spray before dinner. Pay a visit to The Fairmont Empress’ Willow Stream Spa (5) for a quick respite in the Finnish dry sauna, the steam room and the magnesium-enriched thermal pool—a perfect antidote to your mild sea-sickness and that whole seal business. Victoria’s farm-to-table culinary scene rivals that of northern California. For a sample, take a taxi 10 minutes east to Fernwood, the city’s most ethnically diverse neighborhood, and take a seat at Stage (6), a small-dish wine bar and Victoria’s culinary epicenter. The grilled haloumi cheese with heirloom tomatoes and the fried octopus drizzled with lemon are divine. As you sip a digestif, you discover your dining mates are the chefs and sommeliers of the most acclaimed restaurants in town, always a good sign.

You bike back to the harbor promenade, ringed with ﬂowers and the scent of ocean air, for a gander at the handmade First Nation totem poles on display there.

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DAY THREE As you breakfast on perfectly ﬂaky croissant and café latte in the Fairmont’s Empress Room, you decide to beat the crowds with an early visit to the highly regarded Royal British Columbia Museum (1), a quick walk from the hotel. There, you peruse a cast of the Rosetta Stone and an eerily captivating PETER HUNT // DISTILLER, VICTORIA SPIRITS // “For a quick meal downtown, my favorite place is Ferris’ Oyster Bar & Grill. They have, like, dozens of different oysters.”

WHALE CALL From left, amid the orcas in the Strait of Juan De Fuca; feasting on ﬁsh and chips at Fisherman’s Wharf; and tea at the Fairmont Empress Hotel 3

HOTELEMPRESSFAIRMONT

TEA PARTY Get classy with a storied afternoon break // Few places outside of the stuffy antechambers of Notting Hill take their afternoon tea as seriously as Victoria. Every day at around 4 p.m., residents engage in a ritual dating back to the days of King Charles II. Choose from a variety of brews, then pluck snacks from a three-tiered trivet, including ﬁnger sandwiches, scones with clotted cream, and chocolates. A number of Victoria’s restaurants and cafés vie for the distinction of best afternoon tea, but the top purveyor is the singular Fairmont Empress Resort Hotel, the reputation of which is borne out by its list of teatakers: Barbra Streisand, Mel Gibson, John Travolta, Bob Hope, Queen Elizabeth II, Rita Hayworth, Spencer Tracy, Shirley Temple and the King of Siam have all raised their pinkies in the hotel’s famous tea lobby. Good show, old chap.

THOSE 3 PERFECT DAYS DAY ONE (1) The Oswego 500 Oswego St.; Tel: 250-294-7500 (2) Parliament Belleville and Government St.; Tel: 250-387-3046 (3) Fairmont Empress Resort Hotel 721 Government St.; Tel: 250-384-8111 (4) Willie’s Bakery & Café 537 Johnson St.; Tel: 250-381-8414 (5) LoJo Lower Johnson St. (6) Fan Tan Alley Between Pandora Ave. and Fisgard St. (7) Choux Choux Charcuterie 830 Fort St.; Tel: 250382-7572 (8) Silk Road Aromatherapy & Tea Co. 1624 Government St.; Tel: 250-704-2688 (9) Spinnakers Gastro Brewpub 308 Catherine St.; Tel: 250-386-2739 DAY TWO (1) Cycle BC 707 Douglas St.; Tel: 250-380-2453 (2) Beacon Hill Park Douglas St. and Marine Dr.; Tel: 250-381-2532 (3) Barb’s Place Fisherman’s Wharf, 310 Erie St.; Tel: 250-384-6515 (4) Prince of Whales 812 Wharf St.; Tel: 250-383-4884 (5) Willow Stream Spa 633 Humboldt St.; Tel: 250995-4650 (6) Stage 1307 Gladstone Ave.; Tel: 250-388-4222 DAY THREE (1) The Royal British Columbia Museum 675 Belleville St.; Tel: 250-356-7226 (2) The Butchart Gardens 800 Benvenuto Ave., Brentwood Bay; Tel: 250-652-4422 (3) Victoria Spirits and Barking Dog Vineyard 6170 Old West Saanich Rd.; Tel 250-652-4110 (4) The Aerie Resort & Spa 600 Ebedora Ln.; Tel: 250-743-7115STANKIEWICZSTEVEBYILLUTRATIONMAP BOARDING PASS If mild weather, peace and serenity are the cures for what ails you, let United prescribe a trip to Victoria. United Express offers daily jet service between Victoria and United’s San Francisco hub, where you can make convenient connections to and from dozens of cities throughout the United States and the Paciﬁc. And on the way, take the fast track through the airport with the Premier LineSM travel option. HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | AUGUST 2009 87 CookSt. St.Douglas WharfSt. FairﬁeldRd. SuperiorSt. BellvilleSt. Fort St. EsquimaltRd. Outer Victoria Harbor UpperInnerHarborHarbor 1 2 43 56 8 79 1 2 3 4 5 6 1 23 4 BRITISH COLUMBIA Victoria • 0 3 Miles 3PD VICTORIA

You’ve already made dinner reservations at the four-star Aerie Resort & Spa (4), which is a 25-minute ferry ride from Brentwood Bay to Mill Bay in the Cowichan Valley. Perched 1,000 feet up on a hill of evergreens, the decadently rustic Aerie looks over the Finlayson Arm fjord. The restaurant specializes in plates of fantastically fresh scallops, spot prawns and lobster ﬁshed straight from the fjord below. Like Victoria itself, the Aerie isn’t the hottest nightlife scene in the world, but it’s a place to ﬁnd an easy moment of serenity and beauty, and that’s increasingly rare.

KAYAKETY-YAK Victorians get exercise— lots of it. // New York has cabs, Venice has canals, and Amsterdam has um, it has canals, too. Victoria is crawling with bicycles, but residents’ true love is the humble kayak, which is appropriate, since it was the native Inuits who ﬁrst developed this little kazooshaped craft. One look at scores of locals paddling in the harbor and it’s obvious why Victoria is one of Canada’s ﬁttest cities. Even those kayaking commuters linger on their paddle home to enjoy the orcas, seals, sea lions and eagles. Feel like getting your feet wet? Try Ocean River Sports (oceanriver. com), which offers tours of the area.

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set of 12th century Lewis chessmen, carved from walrus ivory. You even get to handle the forefather of the Swiss Army Knife, a lava rock ax made in Africa’s Olduvai Gorge some one and a half million years ago. Time to see the countryside. Make your way back to the Fairmont, and have the concierge obtain a rental car. Soon enough, you’re rocketing out of town to visit the lush farmland of Saanich, just north of Victoria. The turn-of-the-century Butchart Gardens (2)—just 30 minutes from downtown (less if you don’t drive like the locals, who seem to have an aversion to accelerators)—are 55 acres of rhododendrons and roses and eerily gorgeous blue poppies from the Himalayas. It’s easy to get lost on the paths through the ﬂora, and you’ll be tempted to take a dip in the lake. But you’ve got miles to go. After you’ve gotten your ﬁll of those blue wonders, drive south to Victoria Spirits and Barking Dog Vineyard (3), a boutique distillery on Old West Saanich Road. Master distiller Peter Hunt’s Victoria Gin is made from a neutral grain spirit and 10 botanicals, including handpicked local juniper, orange and lemon peel. It’s a smooth concoction, but you’re driving, so resist the urge to indulge. Instead, have just a taste and wander the rolling vineyards.

BRIDGE TO SOMEWHERE Top, crossing a stream in the lush Butchart Gardens; the stunning views at the Aerie Resort & Spa, below; and the modern Royal British Columbia Museum

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Though you’re not eager to leave this ﬁne view, you return to the city by Highway 1 and have a nightcap at the Empress’ Bengal Room. The swankiest venue in town, the room features an actual Bengal tiger hanging above the ﬁreplace and a Casablanca vibe. Ordering a 1908 Cocktail, you favor the stranger on the next barstool with a sample of your Bogie impression: “Of all the gin joints...” Washington, D.C.–based writer and gardener MELISSA NIX wanted to stay in Victoria and work on her green thumb.

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TIFFINY DOBSON HEMINGWAYCO-OWNER, // “In Victoria, andtonsSquare.Streettotown,away.you’recitynowherefeelsalongDallasIwoodssurroundedyou’rebyandwater.oftengodowntoRoadtowalktheharbor.ItlikeyouareneartheofVictoria,yetjustblocksWhenI’minIusuallygoDarcy’satWharfandBastionThereareofyoungpeoplegreatcocktails.”

BYPHOTOGRAPHS BOAT PEOPLE Kayaking under the Johnson Street Bridge, into the Inner Harbor

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Toronto World-class Living at The Residences at The Ritz-Carlton, Toronto. Hong Kong

A world-class residence located at Kowloon Station.

California Welcome to beautiful Santa Barbara, California — A great place to live.

The Ritz-Carlton Residences, Chicago, Magniﬁcent Mile: A tower above it all in a city second to none.

94 95 96 97 98 99 Featured Listings

A New York state of mind on the Los Angeles Golden Mile.

Oahu, Hawaii

Los Angeles

Chicago

Luxury Real EstateHEMISPHERES PROMOTION

$1.3 - $8 Million+ Ontario, Canada Baker Real Estate Inc. Tel www.theresidencestoronto.com866.651.6351

RITZ CARLTON, TORONTO

THETorontoRESIDENCESATTHE

Offering one of the ﬁnest luxury residential ownership opportunities in the world, this condominium residence situated atop The Ritz-Carlton Hotel will open in 2010 in Toronto’s black-tie district, adjacent to the theatre and ﬁnancial districts. Residents will enjoy the ultimate in luxurious suite design and appointments, and access to extraordinary hotel amenities and services including the city’s largest and most lavish spa and two elegant ballrooms, in a building that will stand as a timeless icon on Toronto’s skyline. The next 6 purchasers will be able to vacation each year for 10 years at Ritz Carlton hotels around the world at no cost (some restrictions apply).

KOWLOON STATION Hong Kong

Luxury Real Estate

Launched earlier this year to an overwhelming response, The Cullinan is a dream property. Its two towers are the tallest integrated residences in Hong Kong and the last apartments for sale at Kowloon Station. The 825 luxury units range from 900 to 2,300 square feet. The showpiece must be the two ‘Jewel of the Crown’ penthouses measuring over 4,000 square feet with six bedrooms, pools and roof gardens. With vast windows that take advantage of its prime waterfront location and spectacular views of Victoria Harbour, the ultra-modern façade shines alongside the adjacent International Commerce Centre and its large logo made of over 200,000 topaz crystals glitters day and night to identify The Cullinan as a world-class residence. Approx. HK $300PenthouseMillion: Kowloon Station, Hong Kong Tel (852) www.cullinan.com.hk31190008

HEMISPHERES PROMOTION

Real EstateHEMISPHERES PROMOTION

SANTA CaliforniaBARBARA

*Sotheby’s International Realty, Inc. is owned and operated by NRT LLC.

Suzanne Perkins Number One Agent Sotheby’s International Realty DRE # www.suzanneperkins.com01106511

Luxury

Santa Barbara County is famous around the world for its breathtaking setting. Natural beauty beams from the dramatic mix of mountains, valleys, beaches and the beautiful Santa Barbara channel with its majestic island views. Whether you’re looking for your dream piece of Santa Barbara real estate, a gated equestrian property in Montecito, or a premier ocean-front estate in Santa Barbara, let me help you ﬁnd the home of your dreams in the most beautiful place in the world. I look forward to fulﬁlling your Santa Barbara and Montecito real estate dreams today and for years to come.

The Carlyle Residences Los Angeles, USA Tel www.carlyleonwilshire.com310.209.0000

WILSHIRE CORRIDOR Los Angeles

Developed by the Elad Group, owner of New York’s legendary Plaza Hotel and located on the Los Angeles Golden Mile, one of the most celebrated addresses in the world, The Carlyle Residences offer the epitome of luxurious, carefree living. The 78 exclusive residences, ranging from 2,800 sqf to 3,500 sqf, are designed with an exceptional attention to detail, featuring Poggenpohl kitchens with Miele appliances, lavish marble baths and soaring 11 foot ceilings with panoramic views sweeping from the Paciﬁc to the Hollywood Hills. The Carlyle Residences afford residents access to the ﬁnest amenities Los Angeles has to offer, with an elegantly appointed Grand Lobby, Private Dining room,Wine Cave and a Health Spa with pool. Starting at $2.5 Million $10 Million+ Penthouses

Luxury

Real Estate HEMISPHERES PROMOTION

Hawaii, USA Haseko Realty, Inc. Ka Makana Sales Pavilion Tel 808.689.4438 KAOahuMAKANAAT HOAKALEI Luxury Real EstateHEMISPHERES PROMOTION

As the ﬁrst village of Hoakalei, Hawaii’s spectacular new Marina Resort, Ka Makana offers a year-round resort lifestyle surrounded by the Hoakalei Country Club’s Ernie Els signature golf course. In time, this picturesque village will feature a private swimming & tennis club as well as easy access to Hoakalei’s grand oceanfront marina. The residences of Ka Makana range from beautifully crafted town homes in the high $300,000s to luxurious golf course homes over $1million (FS). They’re distinguished by authentic Island architectural detailing and spacious, free-ﬂowing living spaces that blur the line between indoors and out. Between resort and home.

and offer an unsurpassed combination of graciousness and spaciousness. For a limited time, new owners receive The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Travel Card, so they may enjoy the exceptional offer of free hotel stays at any Ritz-Carlton Hotel around the world. $1.4 million + One to Three Bedrooms & Penthouses The Ritz-Carlton Residences Chicago, Magniﬁcent Mile 664 North Michigan Avenue Tel (312) www.theresidenceschicago.com242.5980 THE RITZ-CARLTON RESIDENCES, ChicagoCHICAGO Luxury Real Estate HEMISPHERES PROMOTION

of the world’s most tasteful living from their privileged location in the

Residences, Chicago, Magniﬁcent Mile draw upon

The Ritz-Carlton nearly a century midst of by the fabled Ritz-Carlton been designed by internationally acclaimed architect Lucien Lagrange,

Chicago’s outstanding amenities. Culture. Culinary arts. Fashion. Theatre. Sports. Commerce. These 88 elegantly appointed homes, served

remarkable

staff, have

FILMS & TELEVISION AUDIO CUSTOMSALLIANCESUNITEDPROGRAMMINGDESTINATIONSTERMINALDIAGRAMS&PARTNERSHIPSANDIMMIGRATIONCROSSWORDSUDOKU&QUIZBEVERAGES&FOODFILMS&S&TELEVISION 102 AUDI O PROGRA MMIN GG 109 UNIT ED D ESTIST NATI ONS 112 TER MINA L DIAGRA MS 116 A LLI ANCE S & PART NERSHIPS 121 C USTOMS AND IMMI GRAT ION 122 CROSSWOR DD 1124 SUDO KU & QUI ZZ 126 BEVE RARAGE S SS&&& FOOD 128 A U GU ST 2 00 9EEN TE RT AI NM ENN T & IN F O RM AT I O N Robert Downey Jr. and Jaime Foxx are in harmony onscreen in The Soloist, playing this month

The Ofﬁce [T] 16-31 Rock [T] [T] 1-15 Star Trek [S][V] 16-31 The Soloist [T] films available on flights between Denver/Chicago and Hawaii 1-15

AUGUST

Howard *Both

FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISIONFILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION “I’m very proud to say I am a geek. But I’m kind of a cool geek. I grew up in a very sci-fi home, so I’ve seen a lot of sci-fi movies.” —Zoe Saldana on Star Trek, The London Paper AUGUST 1-15 The Soloist [T] AUGUST 16-31 Star Trek [S][V] AUGUST 1-15 Parks and Recreation [T] Treasure Quest This American Life [T] AUGUST 16-31 Two and a Half Men [T] TheMythbustersOffice[T]

AUGUST

Cities

AUGUST

The Simpsons AUGUST

AUGUST 1-15 of Girlfriends Past [S][T] 16-31 Great Buck films available on flights between Denver/Chicago and Hawaii 1-15 and a Half Men [T] of the Underworld

Ghosts

Two

The

AUGUST

*Both

Deadliest Catch

Parks and Recreation [T] Treasure Quest This American Life [T] AUGUST 16-31 Two and a Half Men [T] TheMythbustersOffice[T] AUGUST 1-15 The Great Buck Howard AUGUST 16-31 Ghosts of Girlfriends Past [S][T] AUGUST 1-15 This American Life [T] The Mentalist [T] Cities of the Underworld AUGUST 16-31 Two and a Half Men [T] Top Chef NCIS [T][V] AUGUST 1-15 The Soloist [T] AUGUST 16-31 Star Trek [S][V] AUGUST 1-15 Everybody Hates Chris [T] Eureka [T] Desperate Housewives [T] AUGUST 16-31 Two And A Half Men [T] Chuck [T] Grey’s Anatomy [T] AUGUST 1-15 The Great Buck Howard AUGUST 16-31 Ghosts of Girlfriends Past [S][T] AUGUST 1-15 Two And A Half Men [T] Chuck [T] Ugly Betty [T] AUGUST 16-31 Everybody Hates Chris [T] Cities of the Underworld Desperate Housewives [T] AUGUST 1-15 The Soloist [T] AUGUST 16-31 Star Trek [S][V] AUGUST 1-15 The Big Bang Theory [T] Chuck Mythbusters[T] AUGUST 16-31 The Simpsons The Mentalist [T] Treasure QuestHAWAIIAMERICANORTHJFK—SFO/LAXMEXICO&CARIBBEAN AUGUST 1-15 The Great Buck Howard AUGUST 16-31 Ghosts of Girlfriends Past [S][T] AUGUST 1-15 Two and a Half Men [T] Cities of the Underworld The Office [T] AUGUST 16-31 30 Rock [T] Deadliest Catch [T] The Simpsons &FILMTELEVISION FILMS ARE SHOWN ONLY on flights of three hours or longer. Movies available on most 747, 757, 767, 777, A319 and A320 aircraft flights. Schedules and selections are subject to change. International Language Tracks / (S) Películas están disponsibles en Español en todas las rutas domesticas en el canal 10. SOUTHBOUND NORTHBOUND EASTBOUND WESTBOUND

(S) Spanish (G) German (C) Chinese (J) Japanese [V] Violence [S] Sexual Situations [T] Adult Themes

FEATURING John Malkovich, Tom Hanks, Colin Hanks

The story chronicles the early days of James T. Kirk and his fellow USS Enterprise crew members during their time at Star Fleet Academy, with adventures stretching from earth to Vulcan. Baby Spock is typically logical and Scotty still complains bitterly about the ship’s overworked engines. Kirk and Spock are brought center stage as the ﬁlm tracks the origins of their friendship and how they became ofﬁcers aboard the Enterprise

DIRECTED BY Mark Waters New Line Cinema

103HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | AUGUST 2009

1 hr. 40 min.

FEATURING Jamie Foxx, Robert Downey Jr

THE SOLOIST [T]

STAR TREK [V] [S]

FEATURING Chris Pine, Zachary Quinto, Zoe Saldana

2 hr. 7 min. 1 hr. 54 min. Forgot your headphones? Buy them on board. — Starting this fall, a limited number of headsets will be available for purchase in United Economy®.

DIRECTED BY Joe Wright Paramount Pictures

The Great Buck Howard may seem like a magician, but he’s a mentalist. He can read minds and hypnotize a room full of people. In his heyday, he had a marquis act in Vegas and was a guest 61 times on The Tonight Show Starring Johnny Carson. Still, when Troy Gable tries to explain to his dad why he dropped out of law school to work for a mentalist, it doesn’t go over well. It’s obvious that Buck’s act has lost its luster. But Buck is convinced his big comeback is around the corner. And Troy sticks around to ﬁnd out.

Investigative journalist Steve Lopez discovers a vagrant who can play wonderful music on the violin. He discovers his name is Nathaniel Anthony Ayers, a former classical music prodigy whose life has spiraled out of control due to his schizophrenia. Determined to help, Lopez brings Ayers to a shelter where he can practice his music, and by writing about him in his column, Lopez turns Ayers into a local celebrity. More importantly, the two develop a unique friendship that will transform their lives forever.

THE BUCKGREATHOWARD

Celebrity photographer Connor Mead loves freedom, fun and women—in that order. His mockery of romance proves a real buzz-kill for his kid brother, Paul, and a houseful of well-wishers on the eve of Paul’s wedding. Just when it looks like Connor may single-handedly ruin the wedding, he is visited by the ghosts of his former jilted girlfriends, who take him on an odyssey through his failed relationships—past, present and future.

DIRECTED BY Sean McGinly Summit Entertainment 1 hr. 30 min.

FEATURING Matthew McConaughey, Jennifer Garner, Breckin Meyer

DIRECTED BY J.J. Abrams Paramount Pictures

GHOSTS GIRLFRIENDSOF PAST [S] [T]

FILM TELEVISION FILMTELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILMTELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILMTELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILMTELEVISIONFILMTELEVISION INTERNATIONAL LANGUAGE TRACKS (G) Die Aufflistungder Sprachen für ausgewählte Spielfilme finden Sie für die 747-400 Maschinen auf Kanal 2 für alle weiteren Maschinen auf Kanal 10. (J) トラック言語本の長編映画をチャンネル2と747-400航空機上の他の飛行機内でのチャネル10で選択されています (C) 在 747-400型飞机上这些故事片的音频位于第 10频道. 在其他型号的飞机上位于第2频道 Digital media loading occurs between the 25th and 5th of each month. As a result, please understand if your flight features a different line-up before and after the start of each month. &FILMTELEVISION—B747 MAINSCREEN PROGRAMMING CHINAJAPAN & HONG THAILANDJAPAN–HONGVIETNAM–HONGSINGAPORE–KONGKONGKONG Dragonball Evolution (J) Dragon Ball 七龙珠 (C) Monsters vs. Aliens (J)(C) The Soloist [T] (J)(C) *Star Trek [S][V] (J)(C) *East Coast/ORD flights only Desperate Housewives [T] Eureka [T] Everybody Hates Chris [T] Desperate Housewives [T] Eureka [T] Everybody Hates Chris [T] Confessions of a Shopaholic (J)(C) Desperate Housewives [T] Eureka [T] Everybody Hates Chris [T] Desperate Housewives [T] Eureka [T} / Everybody Hates Chris [T] DISCOVERY Dirty Jobs How Stuff Works One Way Out BBC WORLD Exploring Malaysia / Click HARDtalk / Peschardt’s People Confessions of a Shopaholic (J)(C) Monsters vs. Aliens (J)(C) BBC WORLD Exploring Peschardt’sHARDtalkClickMalaysiaPeople Hong Kong to Ho Chi Minh City He’s Just Not That Into You [S] そんな彼なら捨てちゃえば？ (J) 收錯愛情風 (C) 17 Again セブンティーン・アゲイン (J) 青春高校: 回到 17 歲 (C) Desperate Housewives [T] Eureka [T] Everybody Hates Chris [T] BBC WORLD Exploring Peschardt’sHARDtalkClickMalaysiaPeople Dragonball Evolution (J) Dragon Ball 七龙珠 (C) Monsters vs. Aliens (J)(C) The Soloist [T] (J)(C) Star Trek [S][V] (J)(C) Duplicity [S] (J)(C) 17 Again セブンティーンアゲイン (J) 青春高校: 回到17 歲 (C) The Great Buck Howard (J)(C) *Ghosts of Girlfriends Past [S][T] (C) ゴーストオブガールフレンズパスト (J) *East Coast/ORD only Duplicity [S] (J)(C) 17 Again セブンティーン・アゲイン (J) 青春高校: 回到 17 歲 (C) The Great Buck Howard (J)(C) Ghosts of Girlfriends Past [S] (C) ゴースト・オブ・ガールフレンズ・パスト (J) He’s Just Not That Into You [S] そんな彼なら捨てちゃえば？ (J) 收錯愛情風 (C) BBC WORLD Exploring Malaysia / Click / HARDtalk / Peschardt’s People Hong Kong to Ho Chi Minh City EASTBOUND WESTBOUND Grey’s Anatomy [T] NCIS [T][V] Two and a Half Men [T] Dragonball Evolution (G) Monsters vs. Aliens (G) The Soloist [T] (G) *Star Trek [S][V] (G) *West Coast only Desperate Housewives [T] Tim Gunn’s Guide to Style This American Life [T] Duplicity [S] (G) 17 Again (G) The Great Buck Howard (G) *Ghosts of Girlfriends Past [S][T] Der Womanizer—Die Nacht Der Ex-Freundinnen (G) *West Coast only Dragonball Evolution (G) Monsters vs. Aliens (G) The Soloist [T] (G) Star Trek [S][V] (G) Two and a Half Men [T] Cities of theClickUnderworld Duplicity [S] (G) 17 Again (G) The Great Buck Howard (G) Ghosts of Girlfriends Past [S][T] (G) The Mentalist DesperateMythbusters[T]Housewives [T] AUSTRALIAGERMANY

MONSTERS VS. ALIENS When Susan Murphy is clobbered by a meteor, she mysteriously grows to 49 feet, 11 inches tall and is labeled a “monster” named Ginormica. She is captured and held in a secret government compound with a motley crew of monsters. Their conﬁnement time is cut short, however, when an alien robot begins storming the country. The monsters must save the world.

CUSTOMERS ARE WELCOME TO VIEW their own video entertainment aboard a United aircraft as long as they are able to show the programming has an MPAA rating of “R” or less. MOST FILMS HAVE BEEN EDITED FOR AIRLINE USE. However, customer discretion is still advised. Content guidelines are provided as a courtesy to our customers in choosing whether to view a ﬁlm.

(S) Spanish (G) German (C) Chinese (J) Japanese [V] Violence [S] Sexual Situations [T] Adult Themes

DUPLICITY This thriller, written and directed by Tony Gilroy, stars Academy Award–winner Julia Roberts and Academy Award–nominee Clive Owen as longtime lovers and corporate spies who team up to stage an elaborate con to rip off their rival companies.

FEATURING Isla Fisher, Hugh Dancy, Joan Cusack

DIRECTED BY P.J. Hogan Touchstone Pictures

PLAY IF YOUR AIRCRAFT IS EQUIPPED with in-seat video, refer to the separate Play guide located in your seat pocket.

FEATURING Ben Afﬂeck, Jennifer Aniston, Scarlett Johansson DIRECTED BY Ken Kwapis New Line Cinema 2 hr. 4 min.

FEATURING Zac Efron, Leslie Mann, Matthew Perry DIRECTED BY Burr Steers New Line Cinema 1 hr. 42 min. 1 hr. 45 min.

An all-star cast is featured in the stories of a group of interconnected, Baltimore-based twenty- and thirtysomethings as they navigate their various relationships from the shallow end of the dating pool through the deep, murky waters of married life. Trying to read the signs of the opposite sex, each hopes to be the exception to the “no exceptions” rule.

FEATURING Julia Roberts, Clive Owen, Paul Giamatti DIRECTED BY Tony Gilroy Universal Studios 2 hr.

17 AGAIN In the class of 1989, Mike O’Donnell is a star on his high school basketball team with a college scout watching him play and a bright future ahead. He decides instead to share his life with girlfriend Scarlett and the baby they are expecting. Almost 20 years later, Mike is given another chance when he is transformed back to the age of 17.

FEATURING Justin Chatwin, Yun-Fat Chow, Emmy Rossum DIRECTED BY James Wong 20th Century Fox 1 hr. 25 min.

CONFESSIONS OF A SHOPAHOLIC Sweet, charming New Yorker Rebecca has a problem that is becoming a nightmare: She’s hopelessly addicted to shopping and drowning in debt. When her compulsive spending threatens to destroy her love life and derail her career, she struggles to keep it all from spiraling out of control—and discovers what’s really important in life. Based on the novel by Sophie Kinsella.

105HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | AUGUST 2009

A live-action adaptation of the hugely popular manga, Dragonball centers on a humanoid alien named Goku who is trying to fulﬁll the wish of his dying grandfather: He must collect all seven mystical Dragon Balls in the world—which are said to grant the holder one perfect wish—to keep them out of evil hands.

EVOLUTIONDRAGONBALL

HE’S JUST NOT THAT INTO YOU

VOICES BY Reese Witherspoon, Hugh Laurie, Will Arnett DIRECTED BY Rob Letterman, Conrad Vernon Paramount Pictures 1 hr. 34 min.

THE OFFICE Westbound passengers can have a laugh the second half of the month in “Prince Family Paper.” Michael’s conscience gets the best of him after he and Dwight scout a family-run competitor. Everyone else spends the day debating whether Hilary Swank is hot.

THE DEADLIEST CATCH

&FILMTELEVISION

The pilot of this new show is playing on westbound ﬂights the ﬁrst half of the month. This hilarious mockumentary follows a local government bureaucrat attempting to advance her career by turning a construction pit into a park.

TELEVISION DESCRIPTIONS

In “Everything on the Line,” skippers Keith and Phil could be sidelined by illnesses, and all the boats are in debt from summer repairs. One skipper is pressured to take a potentially fatal risk. See what happens on eastbound ﬂights at the end of the month.

Playing on eastbound flights the second half of the month, Bart and Lisa think they killed Martin Prince; and Marge enlists the help of a reality TV show after Homer cheats on his diet in “Dial N for Nerder.”

PARKS RECREATIONAND

The views contained in the video content are not necessarily those of United.

THE SIMPSONS

If you’re flying west the first half of the month, reflect with Ira Glass in “Every Marriage is a Courtroom.” A husband’s legal battle causes his marriage to disintegrate, forcing basic marital questions into the open: What do I need? What can I put up with?

THIS AMERICAN LIFE

TREASURE QUEST Adventure abounds on westbound flights the first half of the month. In “Pirates!,” thanks to sonar images of a field of cannons, Odyssey believes they’ve found the billion-dollar cargo of the 17th century treasure ship Merchant Royal.

TWO AND A HALF MEN Flying east at the beginning of the month? Tune in to “Pie Hole, Herb,” in which Charlie kicks Alan out. Later in the month, westbound passengers can catch “Taterhead Is Our Love Child”—Charlie runs into an ex whose son looks just like him!

XM RADIO AND UNITED offer exclusive music channels enjoyment. Find model on the below on the listening to now communication between the flight deck and FAA air-traffic control is offered. As you listen, your flight will be identified by its flight number. This feature is unique to United and may not be available on all flights. Available at your captain’s discretion. XM’s Exclusive Music Channel presents Wynonna. Her musical journey has taken her to the world’s biggest stages, first as one half of the award-winning duo The Judds, then as a charttopping solo artist. She brings her powerful voice into the SIRIUS XM Studios to sing her biggest hits and songs from her latest CD Sing: Chapter 1.

PROGRAMMINGAUDIO

SIRIUS

109HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | AUGUST 2009 777 A319 & A320 SELECT A320 747757 & 767 737 17161512111054321687913141819 ’60s Hits MOVIE Dubbed MOVIE Dubbed MOVIE English ’70s Hits From the Flight Deck Modern Adult Hits Children’s Programming Adult Contemporary HitsAdult Contemporary Hits Adult Contemporary Hits Top 20 Hits MOVIE English MOVIE Dubbed MOVIE Dubbed ’60s Hits ’70s Hits Modern Adult Hits Children’s Programming Adult Contemporary Hits Classical Pops From the Flight Deck Smooth Jazz Top 20 Hits Unavailable ’60s Hits From the Flight Deck Smooth Jazz ’70s Hits Modern Adult Hits Children’s Programming Adult Contemporary Hits Classical Pops MOVIE English Top 20 Hits From the Flight Deck New Age New Age Classic Rock Classic Rock ’60s Hits New’70sAlternativeHits ’70s Hits ’70s Hits Modern Adult Hits Children’s Programming ’60s Hits MOVIE English Top 20 Hits Modern Adult Hits Adult Contemporary Hits Modern Adult Hits Children’s Programming Classical PopsClassical Pops From the Flight Deck ’60s Hits MOVIE English Unavailable Unavailable Unavailable Top 20 Hits Top 20 Hits Blues Classical Pops Classical Pops From the Flight Deck ’80s Hits ’80s Hits ’80s Hits New Country Hits New Country Hits New Country Hits New Country Hits Adult Album Rock Adult Album Rock Smooth Jazz Smooth Jazz Smooth Jazz Smooth Jazz Classic Soul Original XM Programs

for your inﬂight

grid

your aircraft

and review the selections

on XM. CH. *Live

channel listing. Everything worth

a sampling of XM’s

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Kenny Chesney, Taylor Swift, Carrie Underwood, Keith Urban, Rascal Flatts, Sugarland, Tim McGraw

TRADITIONAL JAZZ Swinging jazz from the 1920s to now, featuring the giants of jazz while presenting a platform for the next generation.

PROGRAMMINGAUDIO CHANNELS & ARTISTS

CLASSIC ROCK Hold your lighters in the air. It’s all classic rock of the ’60s and ’70s, when music came on LPs. Drop the needle on Classic Vinyl. WHO YOU’LL HEAR Creedence Clearwater Revival, The Beatles, Pink Floyd, Lynyrd Skynyrd, Bad Company, Rolling Stones

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Enya, Brian Eno, Tangerine Dream, Kevin Braheny, Mark Isham, Suzanne Ciani

CHILDREN’S PROGRAMMING Kids Place Live features award-winning original content blended with a music mix of the most popular kids’ movie and TV soundtracks, plus Children’s Programming’s recording artists. WHO YOU’LL HEAR The Wiggles, Tom Chapin, Dan Zanes, They Might Be Giants

NEW ALTERNATIVE The latest alternative rock, best of the ’90s and the next big thing before it becomes so big you can’t stand it.

DANCE HITS BPM plays pure mainstream dance music—the biggest remixes and club hits from all over the U.S. with world-renowned DJs. The hottest club in America is BPM! WHO YOU’LL HEAR Cascada, Tiesto, Janet, Ferry Corsten, Seal

NEW AGE Spa is a place of peace in a sometimes crazy world. It’s a beautiful place where you are soothed by dreamy, ﬂowing music.

CLASSICAL POPS Listen to classical music’s greatest hits and famous movie music, performed by renowned orchestras and soloists, on SIRIUS XM Pops. WHO YOU’LL HEAR Boston Pops, Cincinnati Pops, Andrea Bocelli, James Galway, Joshua Bell, John Philip Sousa ’80S HITS “Totally awesome” ’80s on 8 sounds like one of the great Top 40 stations of the time, with rock, rhythm and pop—plus hair bands and the original MTV VJs. WHO YOU’LL HEAR Michael Jackson, Duran Duran, Cyndi Lauper, Prince, George Michael BLUES From the Delta, Chicago, New Orleans and more, B.B. King’s Bluesville covers more than 80 years of authentic blues. WHO YOU’LL HEAR B.B. King, Buddy Guy, Etta James, Muddy Waters

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Daughtry, No Doubt, Colbie Caillat, Plain White T’s ’70S HITS ’70s on 7 takes you back to the days of bell bottoms and pet rocks, when the music was wider than ever—from singer-songwriters and classic rock to R&B and disco. WHO YOU’LL HEAR Elton John, Donna Summer, The Eagles, Chicago, Fleetwood Mac

NEW COUNTRY HITS The Highway plays the very latest New Country, along with the biggest hits of the past few years.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR U2, Dave Matthews Band, Neil Young, Coldplay

SIRIUS XM’s Exclusive Music Channel presents interviews and performances from original series “Artist Conﬁdential.” Wynonna comes to SIRIUS XM Studios to sing her biggest hits and songs from her latest CD, Sing, Chapter 1. Grammy-nominated rockers Fall Out Boy talk about their new album Folie à Deux and perform live. For more on SIRIUS XM’s “Artist Conﬁdential,” go to sirius.com or xmradio.com.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Miles Davis, John Coltrane, Duke Ellington, Dizzy Gillespie, Stan Getz, Count Basie, Art Blakey, Wynton Marsalis SMOOTH JAZZ Watercolors plays the best contemporary jazz instrumentals, classic and new, blended with just the right vocals. It’s contemporary crossover that’s always cool.

MODERN ADULT HITS It’s the ’90s and now! Hear today’s pop hits from artists like Matchbox 20, Alanis Morissette, Maroon 5, Kelly Clarkson and the Dave Matthews Band. Feel the Pulse of adult pop!

Forgot your headphones? Buy them on board. — Starting this fall, a limited number of headsets will be available for purchase in United Economy®.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Weezer, The Raconteurs, The Bravery, Foo Fighters, Death Cab for Cutie, Jimmy Eat World

ADULT ALBUM ROCK New music and classic tracks from artists who’ve stood the test of time, plus quality rock from credible new artists.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Dave Koz, Diana Krall, George Benson, Sade, George Duke CLASSIC SOUL Soul Town is a celebration of the Motown, Stax and Atlantic record labels—vintage soul and classic R&B from the 1960s and ’70s.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR James Brown, The Four Tops, Aretha Franklin, The Supremes

TOP 20 HITS Top 20 on 20 is the world’s ﬁrst fully interactive hit music experience, playing just the songs you vote for. Cast your vote anytime at 20on20.xmradio.com; then plug in and hear what’s hot.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Black Eyed Peas, Fall Out Boy, Lady Gaga, Katy Perry, Kanye West

XM RADIO AND UNITED offer a sampling of XM’s exclusive music channels for your inﬂight enjoyment. Find your aircraft model on the grid below and review the selections on the channel listing. Everything worth listening to is now on XM.

ADULT CONTEMPORARY HITS The Blend is the musical soundtrack of your life—a great mix of Lite pop hits from the ’70s through today; never any rap or rock. WHO YOU’LL HEAR Rod Stewart, Billy Joel, Madonna, Eric Clapton, John Mellencamp 10 ’60S HITS The times they were a-changin’, and so was the music. ’60s on 6 revisits surﬁn’ tunes, “girl groups,” the British invasion, Woodstock. Featuring legendary DJ Cousin Brucie. WHO YOU’LL HEAR The Beatles, Beach Boys, Bob Dylan 16

111HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | AUGUST 2009

Portland Vancouver Seattle Boise San Jose Las Vegas LOS ANGELES San Diego SAN FRANCISCO Oakland DENVER Sacramento Salt Lake Phoenix/ScottsdaleTucsonCity Albuquerque Colorado Springs HoustonSan Antonio KansasWorthFortDallas/CityOmahaOklahomaAustinCity Bozeman Orange County Tulsa El Paso Honolulu Ontario Kahului MoinesMinneapolisDesSpringfieldPierre Spokane WichitaLincoln Missoula Rapid City Reno/Tahoe CalgaryEdmonton Winnipeg Jackson Hole Kona 050100150Miles 050100150200Kilometers Burbank MontroseSpringsSteamboatHayden/ButteCrestedGunnison/Vail/Eagle ChadronAlliance Alamosa Scottsbluff Cortez Cheyenne Worland LiberalDodge City FargoDickinsonKearney Farmington GilletteGarden City Hays Laramie North Platte Pueblo Riverton Rock Springs Sheridan Williston LakePage/Powell CrescentEurekaCity AspenCarlsbadBakersfieldChico YellowstoneCody/ Casper Durango FresnoEugene FallsSioux JunctionGrand Medford Pasco Palm Springs Santa Barbara InyokernImperial Monterey Oxnard San Luis Obispo St. George Santa Maria Yuma Modesto Redmond Redding Bismarck ArkansasNorthwest Great Falls Idaho Falls KalispellAnchorage Puerto Vallarta Los Cabos Huron Show Low Mexico City Billings Salina Manhattan Victoria Helena FallsKlamath North Bend Kapalua Great Bend McCook Hilo MoabVernal SidneySaskatoonLewistown Miles City WolfGlasgowPoint Prescott MercedVisalia LakeMoses Regina ROUTE MAPS NORTH AMERICAN CITIES United Route United Express Route Code Share route serviced by a United Partner • Cities served by United, United Express and Code Share partners Cities served by Star Alliance members Time zone boundry UNITED HUB Route lines do not reﬂect actual ﬂight path

Greenville/SpartanburgWestOrlandoMiamiPalmBeachCharlestonSavannah Baltimore LouisvilleBirminghamMemphisMilwaukee Philadelphia St. Louis Tampa/St. Petersburg ClevelandCharlotte Detroit Jacksonville OrleansNew New York (La Guardia) (J.F. Norfolk/VirginiaKennedy)Beach Toronto Albany Atlanta Boston Columbia Columbus Nashville RichmondRaleigh/Durham WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES) SpringfieldHartford/ Cincinnati ProvidencePortland Greensboro/HighNewarkPoint/Winston-SalemRapidsGrandLexington Ft.SyracuseLauderdale/HollywoodBuffalo/NiagaraFalls Knoxville Manchester Ft. Myers Indianapolis Minneapolis Dayton HarrisburgAllentown Madison Pittsburgh FoxAppleton/Cities Burlington IowaRapids/CedarCity Wausau WayneFt. Green Bay PlainsWhite LansingMidland/Saginaw Moline Rochester MishawakaBend/Elkhart/South Springfield Charleston Traverse CityAkron/Canton CollegeState Key West Wilkes ScrantonBarre/Charlottesville Roanoke Springfield (Reagan National) San Juan Peoria AshevilleAugusta CorningElmira/ Erie Halifax Ottawa PensacolaSarasota/BradentonTallahassee Myrtle Fayetteville/Ft.Beach Bragg GainesvilleHilton Head Island DecaturHuntsville/ JacksonvilleCorningIthaca/ Long Island/Islip Lynchburg New Bern Tri-Cities Regional BinghamtonWilmington 0100200300400Miles 0100200300400500600Kilometers Newport News/Williamsburg GreenvilleArkansasNorthwest RockLittle Antigua Punta Cana St. Kitts Providenciales St. Lucia Cozumel Santo Domingo St. Thomas St. Maarten Montego Bay Altoona ParkersburgBeckleyJohnstownShenandoahValleyClarksburgMorgantownBurlingtonWaynesville FreeportNassau Grand Cayman Hamilton 113HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | AUGUST 2009

Sydney Adelaide Brisbane Cairns Gold CoastPerthShanghaiBeijing San FranciscoFuzhouShenyangChengduChongqingGuangzhouShenzhen Los Angeles Queenstown Wellington Seattle Rarotonga Cook Portland OsakaTokyoSendaiNagoyaHiroshima Okinawa Seoul Sapporo Fukuoka Hong Kong Delhi Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) AucklandMelbourne DunedinChristchurchNadi ApiaHonolulu Pusan BangkokHanoi Denver Dallas Singapore GuatemalaSanSalvad Taipei Kota Kinabalu Phuket Komatsu Baotou Hangzhou Harbin WuhanNanjingQingdaoXiamen Managua Kuala Lumpur Kolkata Canberra Dalian Saipan ROUTE MAPS INTERNATIONAL CITIES United Route Code Share route serviced by a United Partner Code Share route serviced by a United Partner • Cities served by United, United Express and Code Share partners Time zone boundry Route lines do not reﬂect actual ﬂight path

PhiladelphiaMiami Aruba New YorkBoston Frankfurt Washington,CityBelize DC Rio de Janeiro Copenhagen Chicago Newark Addis Ababa Paris Chennai (Madras) Tel Aviv Kuwait Lagos MunichJohannesburgHouston Accra MumbaiBangalore Rome Delhi Amman Alma-AtaAmsterdamCapeTownMadrid Stockholm London Dubai Abu Dhabi Muscat Vienna AtlantaDetroit WarsawShannon Buenos Aires atemalaSalvadorCity Brussels CairoAsmara Bahrain Dakar Lisbon EastDurbanLondon Porto Hyderabad Orlando Tbilisi Port Elizabeth Lima TegucigalpaSantiagoCuzcoSanPedroSulaManagua PeshawarLahoreIslamabadCochinColomboTrivandrumLiberia Doha Abuja Kolkata Karachi Geneva CuritibaBrasilia Fortaleza Manaus PortoBeloAlegreSalvadorHorizonteIguassu Falls Recife Dublin Moscow Charlotte Malabo JeddahRiyadh Sal Istanbul Budapest LisbonPorto Turin Lyon Geneva LondonParis Oslo HamburgCopenhagen Brussels MilanFrankfurtHannoverNurembergVenicePisaRomeNaplesTrieste Istanbul Bucharest Kiev Vienna MunichPrague Warsaw Helsinki BerlinLuga Bremen GrazInnsbruck LinzKlagenfurtSalzburg Sofia Sarajevo Cologne Dresden Verona Vilnius Katowice MarseilleStuttgartNice Riga Stavanger Ancona Dublin BolognaFlorenceGenoa Stockholm Amsterdam Basel EdinburghAberdeen Belfast Birmingham Bergen Ankara Glasgow Manchester BelgradeSkopje ShannonCork AdanaAntalya Izmir 115HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | AUGUST 2009

Roadway BUS/SHUTTLE CENTER To Remote Parking CONCOURSE L CONCOURSE K CONCOURSE H CONCOURSE G CONCOURSE F CONCOURSE E Parking Garage LOTA Roadway F3 F1 E1 B2 B3 B4 B5 B6 B7 B8 C9 C7 C5 C3 C1 C4 C6 C8 C2 B9 B10 B11 C11 C10 C15 C17 C12 C16 C18 C20 C22 C24 C26 C28 C30 C32 C31 C19 C21 C23 C25 C27 C29 C18A B12 B14 B15 B16 B17 B18 E1A E2A E2 E3 CONCOURSE B CONCOURSE C CONCOURSE M TERMINAL THREE TERMINAL TWO ➡ F4 F5 F11 F2 F7 F9 F14 F12 F10 F8 B19 B20 B21 B22 International Terminal Five TERMINAL ONE B1 F6 E10 ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ ★ Reservations 800-UNITED-1united.com (800-864-8331) Automated Flight Information 800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331) Mileage Plus 24-Hour Account Information & Award 800-UNITED-1united.com/mileageplusTravel(800-864-8331) Mileage Plus Visa Customer Service 800-537-7783united.com/chase Baggage Services 800-UNITED-1united.com/baggage(800-864-8331) Refunds 800-UNITED-1united.com/refunds(800-864-8331) CHICAGO / O’HARE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Gate Area United Premier Check-in United Check-in United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite International Arrivals Suite (except from Canada)United Red Carpet Club Lufthansa Check-in SAS Check-in Air Canada Gate Area Air Canada Check-in ANA Check-in bmi Check-in US Airways Gate Area US Airways Check-in Asiana UndergroundCheck-inCorridors, Moving Sidewalks Elevated Airport Transit Systems (ATS) ★ United Easy Check-in Medical Center ★ Airport Play Area—Kids on the Fly EasyCheck-in is available at this airport. Hotel Courtesy Shuttle, Pace Bus, Regional Buses, Off-Site Rent-a-Car, Off-Site Parking Shuttle. Follow the overhead signs in Baggage Claim. HOTEL TERMINAL DIAGRAMS MAKINGDOMESTICYOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT. Whether your next flight is on United or one of the Star Alliance partners around the world, use the terminal diagrams on pages 116–120 to plan your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters, United Red Carpet Clubs and interterminal transportation. CONTACT INFORMATION Customer Relations 800-UNITED-1united.comEmail:united.com/customerrelationscustomerrelations@(800-864-8331) Red Carpet Club™ 520-881-0500866-UA-CLUBSunited.com/redcarpetclub(toll-free)(outsidethe U.S.) Hearing Impaired (TDD) 800-323-0170 Language Assistance (Asian) 800-426-5560 Reservaciones en Español 800-426-5561 United Cargo 800-UA-CARGOunitedcargo.com(800-822-2746) United Services unitedsvcs.com Meetings Plus 800-MEET-UAL (800-633-8825) Duty Free World 6095 NW 167th St. Suite D-4 Miami, FL 33015 USA 800-668-6182 United Vacations 800-32-TOURSunitedvacations.com(800-328-6877) Charter an Airplane united.com/charter Small Package Same Day Shipping Small Package Dispatch (SPD)— Airport-to-airport service: 800-722-5243 Employment Opportunities 888-UAL-JOBSunited.com/jobs(888-825-5627) EasyCheck-in kiosks are located on the concourse to assist customers who have experienced a misconnection or canceled flight. Customers who have e-tickets and are traveling domestically may use the kiosk to: 1. Rebook on another flight 2. Obtain a boarding pass 3. Standby for the next flight to their destination ORD

66 68B TERMINAL 3 TOM BRADLEY INTERNATIONAL TERMINAL TERMINAL 2 TERMINAL 1 TERMINAL 4TERMINAL 5TERMINAL 6TERMINAL 7 TERMINAL 8 Roadway 70A 70B 72 75B 75A 73 71B 71A 80 74 69B7776 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 Mezzanine Level 12 8 4B US Airways Ticket Counter (Upper Level)US Airways Club H H HAZARDOUS MATERIALS NOTICE & IMPORT RESTRICTIONS Hazardous Materials The following items are considered hazardous materials. Do not pack in checked or carryon luggage. Flammable Liquids or Solids Fuel, paints, solvents, lighter fluid, matches Weapons Loaded firearms, ammunition, gunpowder, Mace, tear gas, pepper spray C20 International Arrivals Building GATES T9 -T14 (LOWER LEVEL) Parking MainUpperTerminalLevel TERMINAL T GATES MAIN TERMINAL D8D6D14D16 CONCOURSE D C23C19C17C27 C18C16C14C12C8C6 C4C2 C1C3 C9C7 D2D4D18D20D30 D1D3 CONCOURSE C Transportation to International Arrivals Building for PassengersWashingtonOnly International Arrivals Facility for (LowerPassengersConnectingLevel) CONCOURSE BCONCOURSE A C11D7D5D11 D15 D10 B37B41 B47B45 D23 C28 C26 B39 C5 TERMINAL Z A2A4A6 A1A3A5 H ★ H WASHINGTON / DULLES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Gate Area United Premier Check-in United InternationalCheck-inArrivals Suite (except from Canada) United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge Lufthansa Gate Area Lufthansa Check-in Air Canada Gate Area Air Canada Check-in ANA Check-in ANA Fuji Lounge/Gate Area Austrian Airlines Check-in Austrian Airlines Gate Area SAS Gate Area BWIA Gate EasyCheck-in is available at this airport. South African Airways US Airways Gates ★ United Easy Check-in US Airways Check-in LOS ANGELES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Gate Area United Premier Check-in United Check-in United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge Lufthansa Check-in Thai Airways Check-in Air Canada Check-in Air New Zealand Check-in ANA Inter-TerminalCheck-in Shuttle Bus Stop (Arrival Level) Singapore Check-in US Airways Club US Airways Check-in US Airways Gates Asiana Check-in ★ United Easy Check-in EasyCheck-in is available at this airport. Household Items Drain cleaners and solvents Compressed Gases Spray can, butane fuel, oxygen bottles Fireworks Firecrackers, sparklers or explosives Other Hazardous Materials Dry ice, gasoline-powered tools, camping equipment with fuel, wet cell batteries, oxidizers, corrosives, radioactive materials, poisons, infectious substances Note There are special exceptions for small quantities of up to 70 oz. (2 kg or 2 liters) of medicinal and toilet articles carried in your luggage. For further information, check with any airline representative. Import Restrictions Please note new controls on the import of meat, fish, plants and their products into the United Kingdom and European Union. Check the advisory notices displayed in the baggage hall for a detailed explanation of these restrictions. If you possess any of these items, please declare them to customs in the red channel to avoid legal consequences. LAXIAD 117HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | AUGUST 2009

6 7 ParkingRoadwayGarage 8 91011 CENTRAL CONCOURSE DIAMONDHEAD EWA TERMINALINTERISLANDCONCOURSE DIAMOND HEAD CONCOURSE GATES 6-11 GATES 14-23 GATES 26-34 GATES 12-13GATES 24-25 GATESGATES55-6649-54 ★ SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Arrivals and Departures (Domestic) United Premier Check-in United Domestic Check-in United International Check-in & Departure Gates United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite (lower level) Singapore Check-in Lufthansa Check-in Air China Check-in US Airways Gate Area US Airways Check-in Asiana Airlines Air New Zealand Air Canada Gate Area Air Canada Check-in EasyCheck-in is available at this airport. HONOLULU INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Gate Area United Check-in United Red Carpet Club (Third Level) Air New Zealand (Courtyard, Lower Level) ANA (Courtyard, Lower Level) Air Canada Gate Area US Airways Check-in Pedestrian Inter-TerminalCorridorShuttle Bus Stop Medical Center (Courtyard, Lower Level) EasyCheck-in is available at this airport. CONCOURSE A CONCOURSE B CONCOURSE C Terminal EastTerminal West 15 19 2317 21 25 27332931 3735 16 20 2418 22 26 28 3230 3634 39 6159575553514947454341 29 38 6058565452504846444140 42 43 ★ ★ ★ ★ 8381 87859189 57 63 677169 73797577 8280 86849088 92949593 33 35 3028 DENVER INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Gate Area United Premier Check-in United InternationalCheck-inArrival Processing Air Canada Gate Area Air Canada Check-in US Airways Gate Area US Airways Check-in Lufthansa Check-in Lufthansa Gate Area Underground Train Medical Center (level six) ★ United EasyCheck-in EasyCheck-in is available at this airport. International Terminal Secure ConnectorDENSFOHNL TERMINAL DIAGRAMS MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT. Whether your next ﬂight is on United or one of the Star Alliance partners around the world, use the terminal diagrams on pages 104–108 to plan your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters, United Red Carpet Clubs and interterminal transportation. 71706968 7 73 7574 CONCOURSE F 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 90 89 87A TERMINAL 3 CONCOURSE B CONCOURSE G(Gates G91-G102) B26 B28B27 B29B30 72 CONCOURSE A TERMINAL 1 (Gates 1-12) 79 78B 78A77B77A76A76B 61 Medical Center ★ United EasyCheck-in ℞ Harmony Pharmacy & Health Center is in the Terminal 3, Concourse F hub DOMESTIC & OVERSEAS

SATELLITE 3 SATELLITE 4 Gates 31-47 SATELLITE South Wing Gates 51-58 Gates 21-25 Gates 11TERMINAL 1 SATELLITE 2 SATELLITE 1 North WingPedestrianTransferTunnel47 44454643424138 5251 55 56 57 B300-B303373533315832B332-B340 PIERC PIER BPIERA,LEVEL2(GatesA1-A42)PIERA,LEVEL3(GatesA51-A65) Pedestrian Transfer Tunnel B10 C6 C5 C4 B11-B16B20 B22 B23 B30-B35B42B1,B3-B9B2B41 B43 B44 B46B45 B47 B48B28 B27 B25B26 B24 C1-C3 C7-C9 Escalator TERMINAL 1 C8 ➔ Train to Terminal 2 FRANKFURT INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Gate Area United Check-in United Arrivals Suite United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge Lufthansa Check-in Lufthansa Senator Club Lufthansa Business Class Lounge Air Canada Check-in Train Station US Airways Gates US Airways Check-in Medical Center TOKYO / NARITA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Gate Area United and Star Alliance Premier Check-in United and Star Alliance Check-in Air New Zealand (Terminal 2) United Red Carpet Club (Third Floor) United First International Lounge (Fourth Floor) Medical Center ANA Lounge TERMINAL 3 TERMINAL 1 16 18 17 19 21 23 25 27 28 26 31 29 27 11 23 13 20 22 21 19 17 16 18 BUS To/FromTRANSFERTerminals 3, 4 & 5 BUS To/FromTRANSFERTerminals 1, 2, 3 & 5 29 TERMINAL 4 39 41 43 48 50 52 54 3646 9343230 3836 40 42 35 1 3 574 90 88 86 84 82 80 7876 56 1357 TERMINAL 2 (Closing Early 2009) 5TERMINAL 24 9 12 1114 13 15 2 4 6 8 10 3 5 7 9 40423837 25 7 11 6 8 LONDON / HEATHROW INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Gate Area United Check-in United Premier Check-in Arrivals SASLufthansaLoungeCheck-inCheck-inbmiCheck-inStarAllianceDeparture Lounge Flight ConnectionsLHRFRANRT 119HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | AUGUST 2009

TERMINAL DIAGRAMS US AIRWAYS HUBS CONCOURSE D D17-D26Gates D1-D14Gates D31-D43Gates CONCOURSE A CONCOURSE B B19-B25Gates B9-B17Gates A10-A15Gates A17-A23Gates B6B2B1A3 A5 A8 A7D50-D58Gates LAS VEGAS / MCCARRAN INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Gate Area United Check-in US Airways Gate Area US Airways Check-in US Airways Club Special Services Counter PHOENIX SKY HARBOR INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Gate Area United Check-in United Red Carpet Club US Airways Gate Area US Airways Club and Business Center Special Services Counters ★ United EasyCheck-in EasyCheck-in is available at this airport. Gates 1-9 Gates 10-19 Gates 20-26 2 Food CourtCONCOURSE E CONCOURSE C CONCOURSECONCOURSEB A CONCOURSEGatesD 2-19 Gates 1-16 Gates 1-13 4 ★ CHARLOTTE DOUGLAS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Gate Area United Check-in US Airways Gate Area US Airways Express Gate Area US Airways Check-in US Airways Club US Airways Club and Business Center Special Services Counter ★ United EasyCheck-in EasyCheck-in is available at this airport. 1 3 5 7 9 1113CONCOURSE F CONCOURSE E CONCOURSE D CONCOURSE CCONCOURSE BCONCOURSE A EAST TransatlanticGates(AllCarriers) 17161514 CONCOURSE A WEST Continuous1 Shuttle Bus Pickup and Drop-off Between Gates F10 and C16 Gates 18-26 Gates1-16 Gates16-31 GatesGates1-2324-39 ★ PHILADELPHIA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Gate Area United Check-in United Red Carpet Club US Airways Gate Area US Airways Express Gate Area US Airways Check-in US Airways International Check-in US Airways Club Special Services Counters US Airways Express Check-in US Airways Club and Envoy Lounge ★ United EasyCheck-in EasyCheck-in is available at this airport. TERMINAL 2 5137 ★ Gates INTERNATIONALCONCOURSEB TERMINAL CONCOURSE4 BCONCOURSE A A17-A30Gates A1-A14Gates B1-B14Gates B15-B28Gates PHXPHLLASCLT MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT. Whether your next ﬂight is on United or one of the Star Alliance partners around the world, use the terminal diagrams on pages 116–120 to plan your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters, United Red Carpet Clubs and interterminal transportation. To transfer between terminals, catch the interterminal bus curbside.

ENJOY A WORLD OF STAR ALLIANCE CONNECTIONS AND PRIVILEGES. With more than 17,000 daily ﬂights, United and the other 23 Star Alliance carriers can take you to 916 destinations in 160 countries around the world. The qualifying ﬂights you take on Star Alliance carriers count toward your elite status in Mileage Plus. Air Canada Air China Air New Zealand AsianaANA SwissSpanairSouthSingaporeShanghaiScandinavianLufthansaLOTEgyptAirbmiAustrianAIrlinesPolishAirAirlinesAirwaysAirlinesAfricanAirwaysInternationalAir Lines TAP AdriaUSUnitedTurkishTHAIPortugalAirlinesAirwaysAirways(regional member) Blue 1 (regional member) Croatia Airlines (regional member) Mileage Plus Members can earn miles and redeem award travel on all Star Alliance partners. AFRICA PACIFICASIA CANADACARIBBEANEUROPE AMERICALATIN MEXICO MIDDLEEAST UNITEDSTATESSTAR ALLIANCE PARTNERS Frequent flier benefits not offered on all flights. Contact United Reservations for details. Aer Lingus Air VirginTAMTACAQatarJetIslandHawaiianGreatEmiratesContinentalDolomitiConnectionLakesAirlinesAirAirwaysAirwaysGroupBlue AFRICA PACIFICASIA CANADAEUROPE MEXICO MIDDLEEAST UNITEDSTATES EARN REDEEM Operated Gulfstreamby REGIONAL ALLIANCES CARIBBEAN AMERICALATIN FREQUENTBENEFITSFLIER 121HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | AUGUST 2009

&CUSTOMSIMMIGRATION ENTRY CUSTOMSREGULATIONSDECLARATION ENGLISH All passengers (or one per family) are required to complete the Customs Declaration forms prior to arrival in the U.S. The forms will be distributed inflight and should include all personal data in English and in capital letters. Please ensure you sign your name. SPANISH/ESPAÑOL Todos los pasajeros (o uno por cada familia) tienen que llenar los formularios de Declaración de Aduanas antes de llegar a los EE.UU. Los formularios se distribuirán durante el veulo y deben incluir todos sus datos personales en inglés y con letras mayúsculas. No olvide firmar en el reverso del formulario. 1. Apellido, Nombre, Segundo nombre 2. Fecha de (Día/Mes/Año)nacimiento 3. Cuántos familiares viajan con usted 4. (a) Dirección en los EE.UU. (nombre del hotel/lugar) (b) Ciudad, (c) Estado 5. Pasaporte expedido en (páis) 6. Número del pasaporte 7. País de residencia 8. Países que visitó durante este viaje antes de su llegada a los EE.UU. 9. Línea aérea/número de vuelo o nombre del barco 10. El propósito principal de este viaje es de negocios: Sí / No 11. Traigo (Traemos) (a) frutas, plantas, alimentos, insectos:Sí/No (b) carnes, animales, productos de animales o silvestres: Sí / No (c) agentes de enfermedades, cultivos celulares, caracoles:Sí / No (d) tierra o he (hemos) estado en finca/ granja/pastizales: Sí / No 12. He (Hemos) estado en cercanías de ganado (tocando o manipulándolo):Sí/No 13. Llevo (Llevamos) divisas o instrumentos monetarios por valor superior a $10,000 o su equivalente en moneda extranjera (Véase la definición de instrumentos monetarios alSídorso):/No 14. Tengo (Tenemos) mercancías comerciales (artículos para la venta, muestras para solicitar pedidos o bienes que no constituyen efectos personales):Sí/No

Knee Flexion: Lift knee toward chest, decreasing the amount of joint space at back of the knee. Repeat with other leg.

I-94 ARRIVAL / DEPARTURE RECORD STAYING FIT: INFLIGHT FLEXIBILITY

Dorsiflexion: With heel on floor, point toes upward, decreasing the angle between the foot and front of the leg. Repeat with other foot. Plantar Flexion: Lift the heel and keep toes pointed toward the floor, increasing the angle between the top of the foot and front of the leg. Repeat with other foot.

15. Residentes—el valor total de todos los bienes, incluidas las mercancías comerciales que he (hemos) comprado en el extranjero, (incluyendo regalos para otras personas, pero sin incluir los artículos enviados por correo a los EE.UU.) y que estoy (estamos) introduciendo en los EE.UU. es de: Visitantes—el$___ valor total de todos los artículos que permanecerán en los EE.UU., incluidas las mercancías comerciales, es de: $___ ENGLISH Prior to arrival in the U.S., all foreign nationals (except Canadian citizens and U.S. permanent residents or nationals of countries entitled to the Visa Waiver Program—see I-94W on next page) are required to complete an I-94 form. One form is required for each family member. Customers should complete all personal and travel-related information included on the front side of the form. Please do not write on the back side of the form. All information should be written in capital letters and in English. You are required to keep this form until your departure from the U.S. SPANISH / ESPAÑOL Antes de su llegada a los Estados Unidos, todos los ciudadanos extranjeros (excepto los ciudadanos de Canadá y los residentes permanentes en los Estados Unidos o ciudadanos de los países que tienen el Programa “Visa Waiver”—Ver formulario I-94W en hoja adjunta) tienen que llenar un formulario I-94. Hay que rellenar un formulario por cada miembro de la familia. Los pasajeros llenarán toda la información personal y relativa al viaje que se incluye en el anverso del formulario. Le rogamos que no escriba en el reverso del formulario. Toda la información debe estar escrita con letras mayúsculas y en inglés. Le rogamos que guarde este formulario hasta que salga de los Estados Unidos. Apellido 2. Nombre 3. Fecha de (Día/Mes/Año)nacimiento País de ciudadanía 5. Sexo (masculino o femenino) 6. Número de pasaporte 7. Aerolínea y número de vuelo 8. País donde reside 9. Ciudad donde tomó el avión 10. Ciudad donde obtuvo el visado 11. Fecha del visado (Diá/Mes/Año) 12. Dirección durante su estancia en los EE.UU. (Número, Calle) 13. Ciudad y Estado 14. Apellido 15. Nombre 16. Fecha de (Día/Mes/Año)nacimiento 17. País de ciudadania

Knee Extension: Straighten knee, increasing the amount of joint space at the back of the knee to its full range. Repeat with other leg.

Eversion: With foot on ﬂoor, gently roll the sole of the foot inward. Repeat with other foot. Inversion: With foot on ﬂoor, gently roll the sole of the foot outward. Repeat with other foot.

I-94 NONIMMIGRANT VISA WAIVER / FRONT I-94 NONIMMIGRANT VISA WAIVER / BACK 123HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | AUGUST 2009

12.

15. Nacionalidad

11.

SPANISH / ESPAÑOL Antes de su llegada en los Estados Unidos, los ciudadanos extranjeros (excepto ciudadanos Canadienses y residentes permanentes de los Estados Unidos) que no tengan un visado de visita y se acojan al programa “Visa Waiver”, tienen que completar el formulario I-94W. Se requiere un formulario por cado miembro de familia. Los pasajeros deberán rellenar toda información tanto personal como relacionada con viajes en el anverso de la tarjeta. Por favor, asegúrese de contestar todas las preguntas , ﬁrmen y pongan la fecha en el lugar indicado en el formulario.

Todos los pasajeros deben proporcionar una dirección en Estados Unidos para entrar al Lospaís.países que participan del Programa de exención de visas son los siguientes: Alemania. Andorra, Australia, Austria, Bélgica, Brunei, *Corea del Sur, Dinamarca, *Eslovaquia, Eslovenia, Espána, *Estonia, Finlandia, Francia, *Hungría, Irlanda, Islandia, Italia, Japón, *Letonia, Liechtenstein, * Lituania, Luxemburgo, *Malta, Mónaco, Noruega, Nueva Zelandia, Países Bajos, Portugal,*República Checa, San Marino, Singapur, Suecia, Suiza y el Reino Unido. *Los ciudadanos de estos países deben presentar un electrónicos (e-ppt) pasaporte para ser elegible para del Programa de exención de visas de Estados Unidos. Los ciudadanos de los demás países exentos de visas deben presentar un pasaporte de lectura electrónica en el marco del Programa de exención de visas de Estados Unidos a partir del 26 de octubre de 2004. 1. Apellido 2. Nombre 3. Fecha de (Día/Mes/Año)nacimiento Nacionalidad Sexo (varón/hembra) Número de Pasaporte Línea Aérea y Número de vuelo País de residencia Ciudad de embarque Domicilio en Estados Unidos (número y calle) Ciudad y Estado Apellido Nombre 14. Fecha de (Día/Mes/Año)nacimiento

*Nationals of these countries must present an electronic (e-ppt) passport to be eligible for the U.S. Visa Waiver Program.

ENGLISH Prior to arrival in the United States, foreign nationals (except Canadian citizens and U.S. permanent residents) who are not in possession of a visitors visa and are entitled to the Visa Waiver Program are required to complete the I-94W form. One form is required for each family member. Customers should complete all personal and travel-related information included on the front side of the card. Please ensure that you answer all questions and sign and date where indicated on the back side of this form. All customers must provide a U.S. address for entry. Countries that are participants of the Visa Waiver Program are as follows: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, *Czech Republic, Denmark, *Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, *Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, *Latvia, Liechtenstein, *Lithuania, Luxembourg, *Malta, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, *Slovakia, Slovenia, *South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, the United Kingdom.

10.

13.

SPANISH / ESPAÑOL ¿Le afecta alguna de estas restricciones a usted? (Conteste Si o No) A. ¿Padece usted de alguna enfermedad contagiosa, deficiencia física o mental, o es adicto a las drogas? Sí / No B. ¿Ha sido usted arrestado o condenado por alguna infracción o delito de depravación moral; o por una violación relacionada con estupefacientes; arrestado o condenado por dos o más infracciones cuya sentencia total de reclusión fuera igual o superior a cinco años; ha sido traficante de estupefacientes, o pretende entrar en los Estados Unidos para realizar actividades criminales o inmorales? Sí / No C. ¿Ha estado o está implicado en actos de espionaje o sabotaje, actividades terroristas o genocidios; o participó de algún modo entre 1933 y 1945 en persecuciones relacionadas con la Alemania nazi o sus aliados? Sí / No D. ¿Tiene intención de trabajar en los Estados Unidos; ha sido excluido o deportado; o ha sido expulsado de los Estados Unidos, o ha obtenido o intentado obtener un visado o la entrada a los Estados Unidos por medios fraudulentos o dando información falsa? Sí / No E. ¿Ha detenido, retenido, o impedido la custodia de un niño que corresponda legalmente a un ciudadano de los Estados Unidos? Sí / No F. ¿Se le ha cancelado o denegado alguna vez el visado o la entrada en los Estados Unidos? En caso afirmitavo, especifique? Sí / No ¿Cúando? ¿Dónde? G. ¿Ha hecho valer alguna vez su inmunidad frente a un procesamiento? Sí / No IMPORTANTE: Si ha contestado afirmativamente alguna de las preguntas, comuníquese con la Embajada de los Estados Unidos ANTES de su viaje, ya que se le puede denegar la entrada en los Estados Unidos.

Effective January 12, 2009, all passengers who intend to travel to the United States without a U.S. Visa under the terms of the Visa Waiver Program must obtain an electronic preauthorization or ESTA in advance of travel. When planning international travel, please be sure that you are in possession of all required documents. Remember to allow ample time for acquiring ofﬁcial travel documents. For complete information on the requirements, and to apply for ESTA, please visit www.cbp.gov/esta.

DECLARACIÓN: Declaro que he leído y entendido todas las preguntas y enunciados enumerados en esta solicitud, y que las respuestas que he propocionado en este formulario son verdaderas y correctas a mi mejor saber y entender.

Nationals of all Visa Waiver countries must present a machine-readable passport for the U.S. Visa Waiver Program.

RENUNCIA DE DERECHOS: Por la presente renuncio el derecho a solicitar la revisión del Oﬁcial de Inmigración acerca de mi admisión en los Estados Unidos, o a apelarla, o a impugnar cualquier acto de deportación que no sea por razón de una solicitud de asilo.

ELECTRONIC SYSTEM FOR TRAVEL AUTHORIZATION

Spanish / Español A partir del 12 de enero de 2009, todos los pasajeros que quieran viajar a los EE.UU. (entre los terminos del programa de no tener que usar la Visa) tendran que obtener una preautorización electronica o ESTA antes de viajar. Cuando estés coordinando viajes internacionales, este seguro que tenga todos los documentos requerídos. No se olvide de dejar tiempo suﬁciente para adquirir los documentos oﬁciales de viaje. Para información completa sobre todos los requisitos, y para aplicar para ESTA, por favor visite www.cbp.gov/esta.

CROSSWORD IF YOU FILL IN THE CROSSWORD PLEASE TAKE THE MAGAZINE WITH YOU SO IT’S REPLACED. // ANSWERS FOUND ON P. 53 ACROSS 1. Math, English or science 7. Designer’s concern 12. Dogie catcher 17. Not false 18. Leatherworker’s tool 20. A Japanese emperor 21. In motion 22. Shrek, e.g. 23. Bleacher bum’s jeer 24. Exaggerate 25. Knight’s need 26. A friendcorrespondence 28. Cousin of a bassoon 30. Aged 31. Cast 32. Flirt with 34. Count (on) 36. In the past 37. How low can you go? 41. School break 42. Winter bug 43. Disgrace 44. Comics’ shriek 45. Trams or trolleys 52. Hair colorer 53. Groupie 54. Plunder 55. Chills and fever 56. Mollify 58. Curtilage 61. Military freshmanacademy 62. Milk-Bone biscuit, e.g. 63. Celeb 64. Podded plant 65. Birch relative 66. Small pouch 68. Hogwash 70. Big galoot 72. Comics sound 76. Roswell sighting 78. See stars, maybe 80. Happen again 84. Often-missed humor 85. Brochure 87. Blackboard cleaner 89. Booty 90. A narrow channel 91. Victorian, for one 93. Scale down 94. All-knowing 96. Victoria’s Secret purchase 97. Counterfeit 98. Pool tool 99. Leaf shape, sometimes 101. Concerning 102. Arabic form of salutation 106. Harmonize 108. Kind of beam 110. Avoid 111. “Welcome” site 112. ___ tale 114. Ambrosia 119. A prejudiced person 120. Offer a higher amount than others 122. Topper 124. Up to snuff 125. Poker ploy 126. Big name in swimsuits 127. “___ rang?” 128. Dressing ingredient 129. “Come in!” 130. Conductor Koussevitzky 131. On the fence DOWN 1. “Cut it out!” 2. Advocate 3. Make, as a CD 4. Rough terrain vehicle 5. Monthly bill 6. Low card often 7. Frogmen 8. Just manage, with “out” 9. Christmas ___ 10. Strangely 11. Crucifix 12. Attack in speech or writing 13. Frost flower 14. Fulton's power 15. It doesn't hold water 16. Command 19. Unfinished business 20. Farm cry 27. Bit 29. Call's companion 33. Length x width, for a rectangle 35. English exam finale, often 36. Took off 37. Gobs 38. Bonehead 39. Bush-league 40. Montana city 42. Like life in the Middle Ages 46. Circus swing 47. Pink, as a steak 48. Summon 49. Like fine wine 50. Bumpkin 51. Crystal ball user 53. Greek cheese 54. Single girls search 57. Hurried 59. Place to put the feet up 60. Crew need 61. Beeper 67. Eliminating game between teams 69. Amigo 71. Carbamide 72. Farm storage building 73. School ball 74. Nutcase 75. Dead against 77. Taxi meter reading 79. Forever 81. Type of chicken 82. Grammar topic 83. Any Seinfeld, now 86. Mountaineer’s spike 88. Catch one’s breath 90. Lowlife 92. Old clothing 95. Break up or dispel 96. Cotton capsuleseed-bearing 97. Uncovered 100. Become of; happen to BRUCEGREGBYCROSSWORDPUZZLESPUZPUZ©102. Buffalo hockey player 103. Birdy 104. On the up and up 105. Emerged 106. Grayish-brown 107. Give voice to 109. Provide, as with a quality 111. Forest growth 113. Much ___ About Nothing 115. Actors 116. Alpine transport 117. Pond dweller 118. Casting need 121. Plead 123. Charged item 124 AUGUST 2009 | UNITED.COM “ONLY VOWELS” Just type in www.shoebuy.com/united to start enjoying FREE Shipping And FREE Returns Over 800 brands and hundreds of thousands of product reviews The World’s Largest Site For ShoesSHOEbuy.com®

B. George H.W. Bush and Bob Dole are to Bill Clinton as Hubert Humphrey and George McGovern are to…

1. SAT ANALOGY FLASHBACK Complete the standardized-test-style analogies

C. Being forced to swallow hemlock is to Socrates as poisoning, shooting and being thrown into a river are to...

D. Chocolate + coconut: Baseball pitchers eat it?

A. Chocolate + nougat + caramel: Galactically delicious

ARTIFICIAL SWEETENERS 126 AUGUST 2009 | UNITED.COM

A. Four guys crossing a street is to The Beatles as a baby in a swimming pool and a dollar bill on a ﬁshhook is to…

BIGQUIZTHING.COMTOGOINFO,MOREFOR

QUIZ DIGITAL UNDERGROUND // BY MITCH ROSE SUDOKU 1.A.NIRVANAB.RICHARDNIXONC.RASPUTIND.PAVLOV2.A.MILKYWAYB.SNICKERSC. BUTTERFINGERD.MOUNDSE.PAYDAY3.A.THELOVEBOAT(“LOVEWON’THURTANYMORE. IT’SANOPENSMILEONAFRIENDLYSHORE.IT’SLOVE!”)B.THEMONKEES(“HEY,HEYWE’RE THEMONKEES,ANDPEOPLESAYWEMONKEYAROUND.BUTWE’RETOOBUSYSINGING,TO PUTANYBODYDOWN.”)C.ALLINTHEFAMILY(“BOY,THEWAYGLENNMILLERPLAYED.SONGS THATMADETHEHITPARADE.GUYSLIKEUS,WEHADITMADE.THOSEWERETHEDAYS.”)D. HAPPYDAYS(“GOOD-BYEGRAYSKY,HELLOBLUE.THERE’SNOTHINGTOHOLDMEWHENI HOLDYOU.FEELSSORIGHT,ITCAN’TBEWRONG.ROCKINGANDROLLINGALLWEEKLONG.”) E.SOUTHPARK(“GOIN’DOWNTOSOUTHPARK,GONNALEAVEMYWOESBEHIND.AMPLE PARKINGDAYORNIGHT.PEOPLESHOUTING,‘HOWDY,NEIGHBOR.’”)

B. Chocolate + nougat + peanuts + caramel: It might make you laugh

C. Youngster, way Glenn Miller presented. Warbler this made hit Paraguay. Celibate like the us, we had it made. Those were Daniel.

MODERATEEASYHARD YES, IT IS WHAT YOU KNOW // BY NOAH TARNOW

E. Peanuts + caramel: Hit the bank

C. Chocolate + crispy peanut butter stuff: Don’t drop it!

Name the famous TV theme according to its lyrics. Warning: We’ve run the quotes through an internet translation program to transfer it to another language, then translated it back into English. We’re dealing with forces we cannot fully explain.

A. Love won't hurt anymore It's an open sneer on affable shore. Yes—suffrage love!

D. Goodwill bye gray cloud hello blouses. There's nothing to hold me when in hold you. Feels so right it can't pray wrong. Coat duck role all weekend long. E. Functioning down to south subordinate, gonna leave my suffering behind it. Big park day or night people shouting howdy neighbor.

2. CANDY IS DANDY Name the popular candy bar based on its ingredients and the clue.

1. 2.3.

D. A box with a rat is to Skinner as a dog and a bell are to...

ANSWERS

1.2.3. ACTUALLY,

B. Ahoy, ahoy we're the Monkery, and people tell mi jocko towards. But we're he is too busy melody, yield work everyman whip.

3. RETRANSLATED TV THEMES

feel at home,

HAVE DRINKREFRESHINGA NONALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES WINES • Soft Drinks • Tonic Water • Seltzer Water • Natural Spring Water • Milk • Tea • Assorted Fruit Juices • Starbucks Regular and Decaffeinated Coffees UNITED FIRST AND BUSINESS INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Please refer to the printed menu. BEER, COCKTAILS, SPIRITS AND LIQUEURS UNITED FIRST, BUSINESS AND ECONOMY Starbucks Coffee Coke Diet Coke Sprite Sprite Zero Ginger Ale Bloody Mary Mix Apple and Tomato Juices Spring Water Selections may vary on United Express flights. It is United policy on all flights to ask you to use only the lavatories in your ticketed cabin. This policy complies with the U.S. Transportation Security Administration directive that passengers on international flights to the U.S. may use only the lavatories in their ticketed cabin. Alcohol may be served to customers over 21 only. By FAA rule, we may not serve alcohol to customers who appear intoxicated. Customers are limited to one alcoholic beverage at a time during service. Only alcohol provided by United and served by flight attendants may be consumed onboard. BEER • Miller Genuine Draft • Miller Lite • Heineken Beer offerings are subject to availability. A selection of regional beers is offered on some international flights. COCKTAILS • Bloody Mary • Screwdriver SPIRITS • Bacardi Rum • Canadian Club Reserve • Dewar’s White Label Scotch • Finlandia Vodka • Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey • Jim Beam Black Bourbon Whiskey • Tanqueray Gin LIQUEURS • Courvoisier VSOP Cognac • Bailey’s Irish Cream • Kahlúa The following are available only on international flights: • Absolut Vodka • Chivas Regal Scotch • Di Saronno Amaretto • Glenlivet (premiumScotchcabins only) &FOODBEVERAGES RELAX WITH YOUR FAVORITE DRINK Beverage service is available on most United flights. Alcoholic beverage selections vary according to cabin class and international or domestic flight status. Alcoholic beverages are available for $6 on most flights. UNITED FIRST AND BUSINESS DOMESTIC FLIGHTS You will be offered a choice of red and white wines. Selections may include the following: RED • De Bortoli dB Selection Shiraz 2008 Southeastern Australia WHITE • Longwood Sauvignon Blanc 2007 Western Cape THE FOLLOWING IS AVAILABLE ON SELECT UNITED FIRST AND BUSINESS DOMESTIC AND INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS: SPARKLING WINE • Brut D’Argent NV UNITED ECONOMY ALL FLIGHTS RED • Kingfish Shiraz • Redwood Creek Cabernet WHITE • Kingfish Chardonnay • Redwood Creek Chardonnay

JULIENNE CHEF SALAD CRISP romaine lettuce topped with Black Forest ham, julienne oven-roasted turkey breast, Napa cabbage, shredded cheddar cheese, diced tomato, chopped black olives and sliced hardboiled egg, served with ranch dressing.

TURKEY, CHEDDAR AND ASPARAGUS WRAP Sliced oven-roasted turkey breast and cheddar cheese, topped with shredded Napa cabbage, baby spinach, asparagus and roasted red tomato, with a spinach-cream cheese spread on a ﬂour tortilla.

TURKEY AND BACON COBB SALAD Crisp romaine lettuce topped with diced roasted turkey, chopped bacon, diced tomatoes, sliced black olives, diced Swiss cheese and hard boiled-egg wedges, served with a balsamic vinaigrette dressing.

GRILLED ASIAN CHICKEN SALAD Grilled Asian chicken breast served with a blend of radicchio and Napa cabbage along with fresh cilantro, cucumbers and julienne carrots, served with an Asian sesame-ginger dressing.

GRILLED TUSCAN CHICKEN AND SALAMI WRAP Sliced marinated chicken breast, thinly sliced Genoa salami and provolone cheese, topped with baby spinach, shredded Napa cabbage, roasted red tomato and kalamata olives, with a basil garlic-cream cheese spread on a ﬂour tortilla.

ENJOY A SNACKBOX OR A FRESH FOOD ITEM. Breakfast is available on flights departing before 10 a.m. A choice of snackboxes, salads and sandwiches is available on flights departing after 10 a.m. and prior to 8 p.m. Active and Classic snackboxes are $6; Luxe and Organic are $7; fresh food items are $9. Individual à la carte snack items are available for $3 each on flights two hours and longer.* SNACKBOXES // AVAILABLE ON MAINLINE FLIGHTS OF TWO HOURS AND LONGER. $6–$7* • Stoned Classics Tortilla Chips • Heinz Salsa • Blue Diamond Almonds • Think Fruit PomegranateChocolatePowerBar • Newman’s Own Organic Raisins • O’Brien’s Honey Cured Turkey Stick • Kettle Backyard BBQ Chips • Oreo Cookies • Jelly Belly Gourmet Jelly Beans • Pepperidge Farm Goldfish Crackers • Sparrer Beef Salami • Gourmet Cheddar Cheese Spread • Pepperidge Farm Crackers • Rondele Peppercorn Parmesan Cheese Spread • Pepperidge Farm Crackers • Food Should Taste Good Multigrain Tortilla Chips • Mediterranean or Vinaigrette Olives • Wild Garden Hummus Dip • Real Torino Sesame Breadsticks • Ashers Dark Chocolate Pretzel • Late July Organic Cheddar Cheese Crackers • Terra Nostra Organic Dark Chocolate Square • Kettle Valley Organic Fruit Snack • Nature’s Path Organic Pumpkin Flaxplus Granola • Bare Fruit Organic Cinnamon Apple Chips À LA CARTE ITEMS On flights two hours and longer • Lay’s Stax Potato Chips • Walkers Shortbread Cookies • Toblerone Chocolate Bar • Clif Bar Oatmeal Raisin Walnut • Odwalla Banana Nut Granola Bar • Fisher Nut Mix LUNCHSANDWICHESANDDINNER SALADS Smoked Turkey and Swiss Club Turkey and Bacon Cobb Salad On selected intra-Pacific flights originating from Japan, enjoy a Trader Vic’s meal in United First or United Business. FRESH FOOD ITEMS // ONE CHOICE AVAILABLE ON SELECT FLIGHTS OF FIVE HOURS AND LONGER. $9* BREAKFAST An assortment of gourmet cheese and crackers, accompanied by a seasonal fresh-fruit mixture, fresh yogurt and one of the following: • banana miniloaf • raspberry breakfast cake • apple Danish *United flights within North America (including U.S., Canada, Mexico, Central America and the Caribbean) will accept credit/debit cards only. International flights will accept credit/debit cards and cash. United Express flights will accept only cash. Due to limited space, all snackboxes may not be available on all Snackboxflights.contents may vary slightly based on product availability. None of the items in the snackboxes contain peanuts, peanut flour, or peanut oil. Some products have been manufactured in a facility that also processes peanuts and are labeled as such. Flight attendants will advise which selections are available on your flight.

EACH SANDWICH IS SERVED WITH A BAG OF CHIPS.

ALL SALADS ACCOMPANIED BY A SELECTION OF FRESH, SEASONAL MIXED FRUIT.

SMOKED TURKEY AND SWISS CLUB WRAP Thin-sliced mesquite turkey breast and turkey bacon, topped with crisp romaine lettuce, cucumber, tomato, red onion and Swiss cheese, with a spinach-cream cheese spread on a ﬂour tortilla.

129HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | AUGUST 2009 ACTIVE CHOICEMENU ACTIVE CHOICEMENU CLASSIC CHOICEMENU LUXE CHOICEMENU ORGANIC

in transit AUGUST 2009 | UNITED.COM 130 PHOTOGRAPH BY SPENCER HEYFRON

ONE THING I CAN’T LEAVE HOME WITHOUT / My camera. I have 13 siblings, and we’re always taking pictures. There were at least 375 people at my mom’s party including kids and grandkids. At something like that, you’ve got to take a lot of pictures.

“I am the chatty seatmate I love people and I love talking, but I’m also a pretty good listener WHY I’M TRAVELING / I’m going home to L.A. I was supposed to start a new job yesterday but I missed my ﬂight back when my rental van broke down coming back from my mom’s 82nd birthday. I’m not worried about it though. I’m a good talker. I’ll tell them “I’m a good son, so obviously I’ll be a good employee.”

WHEN I ENCOUNTER A CHATTY SEATMATE / I am the chatty seatmate! I love people and I love talking. It’s funny though. I actually don’t end up talking much myself. I let other people talk and I give bits and pieces of advice. I’m a pretty good listener even though I’m such a chatterbox.

BY ADAM K. RAYMOND GETTING TO KNOW YOU

WHO AMOS HILL 41 / Online Grocery Delivery Driver AVRIEL HILL 4½ / Cute kid

!.”

PERSONAL INJURY PRODUCT LIABILITY TRANSPORTATION AVIATION WRONGFUL DEATH MEDICAL MALPRACTICE PREMISES LIABILITY LAW COMMERCIAL LITIGATION 120 NORTH LASALLE STREET 31ST FLOOR CHICAGO, ILLINOIS 60602 TELEPHONE 312-899-9090 FAX 312-251-1160 WWW.CLIFFORDLAW.COM This year marks Clifford Law Offices twenty fifth year of helping families in Chicago and around the country. The firm appreciates the opportunity to counsel those who have sought legal representation in the field of personal injury law. We continue to dedicate our practice to helping those in need and who put their trust in the lawyers at clifford law offices.

World’s ﬁrst digital noise headphones.canceling In an independent, blind test, frequent business travelers rated the Sony NC500D headphones #1 twice as often as either the Bose ® QC™ 2 or QC™ 3 in overall noise cancellation and audio quality. To order or learn more, go to sony.com/headphones or call 866-605-7669. © 2008 Sony Electronics Inc. Sony and the Sony logo are trademarks of Sony. Bose, QC are trademarks of Bose Corp.

United Airlines Hemispheres Magazine August 2009

Articles inside

Hemispheres Luxury

In Transit Who’s sitting next to you?

Wooden It Be Nice? New tennis

High on the Hog Pigging out

Yuppie Love As thirtysomething

Barn Burner New York’s most exclusive club is a rural retreat in Woodstock, on ex-Band drummer Levon Helm’s farm. // By Jason Fine

Middle Eastern Promises Israel

Dispatches Notes from all over

You Must Remember This Get

Contributors

News What to see, where to stay when to go

Whirlwind Five hours in Paris

Voices Introducing United's vice president of Flight Operations

Whereabouts Actress Leslie Mann relaxes in Hawaii, where she and Judd Apatow tied the knot.

Connections United introduces a new Choice Menu.