United Airlines Hemispheres Magazine August 2015

AUGUST 2015

Hemispheres AUGUST 2015

T H R E E P E R F E C T D AY S N OVA S C O T I A • T H E H E M I Q & A W I T H J E S S E E I S E N B E R G

THREE PERFECT DAYS

NOVA SCOTIA IT’S DIFFERENT UP HERE

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HAVE SPEAR, WILL TRAVEL LIONFISH HUNTING IN BELIZE THE HEMI Q&A IS THERE ANYTHING JESSE EISENBERG CAN’T DO? BIG TASTY INSIDE THE SOUTHERN FOOD AND BEVERAGE MUSEUM IN NEW ORLEANS

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contents

YOUR COMPLIMENTARY ISSUE

DISPATCHES 19 Things get interesting at the Boring Conference in London; eating the world’s hottest pepper in New York City; philanthropy backfires in West Africa; dancing the day away in Los Angeles; dining etiquette in Tokyo

AUGUST 2015

BRIGHT IDEAS 49 HOW IT’S DONE “Bioconcrete” that can heal itself 51 INDUSTRY

The on-demand economy is taking over our lives

FEATURES HEMI CULTURE

54 THREE PERFECT

25 THE MONTH AHEAD

DAYS: NOVA SCOTIA

An art show looks at New Orleans’ recovery from Katrina; three bands, including Yo La Tengo, celebrate their birthdays with new albums; a hip-hop musical about Alexander Hamilton; a new novel from Alice Hoffman; what if the Royal Family were in Star Wars?; Patrick Stewart gets blunt with America

Lovely lighthouses, quirkily friendly locals and strange late-night snacks in Canada’s Maritimes

31 TASTEMAKERS

A new Japanese noodle dish hits U.S. shores; hydrosol cocktails; a museum dedicated to Southern food 35 STAY

This month’s hottest hotels, from Madrid to Mexico City 38 LOCAL LOOK

Lagos style 41 TRAVEL ESSAY

The downsides of making travel buddies 44 THE FAN

The referees in England’s top soccer league have a rough gig

66 WANTED: LIONFISH DEAD OR ALIVE

In Belize, vacationers spear a dangerous invasive species 70 THE HEMI Q&A: JESSE EISENBERG

The acclaimed actor talks about finding time to write, fostering cats and bonding with Woody Allen

“I WAS WORRIED ABOUT GETTING TOO CLOSE AND GETTING STUNG BY THOSE POISONOUS SPINES. BUT ONCE IT WAS DONE, I WAS EXCITED. I WAS HELPING TO SAVE THE REEF.” —SPEARFISHERMAN RENATO AMITRANO

ROBB KENDRICK

12 CEO Letter A word from Jeff Smisek

• 14 Voices A message to flyers • 16 Connections What’s new at United

ENTERTAINMENT AND INFORMATION 83 TRAVEL INFO Fleet, Terminal Diagrams, Customs & Immigration, Safety, Star Alliance, Route Maps and MileagePlus 101 CROSSWORD AND SUDOKU 107 ENTERTAINMENT Movies, Television, Personal Device Entertainment, Inflight Wi-Fi and Audio Programming 118 FOOD AND BEVERAGES Chef ’s Corner, Choice Menu

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • AUGUST 2015

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contributors

EDITOR IN CHIEF JORDAN HELLER EXECUTIVE EDITOR CHRIS WRIGHT MANAGING EDITOR JUSTIN GOLDMAN SENIOR EDITOR NICHOLAS DERENZO ASSOCIATE EDITOR ERIN BRADY ART DIRECTOR TRACY TOSCANO PHOTO DIRECTOR JESSIE ADLER

CHRIS SORENSEN is an award-winning, New York–based travel photographer who has had the chance to take pictures of beautiful places and interesting faces around the planet. His images have appeared in Condé Nast Traveler, Departures, Afar and the Financial Times, among other publications. On page 54, he travels north to shoot the best of Canada’s secondsmallest province for “Three Perfect Days: Nova Scotia.”

JEANNIE RALSTON is an Austin-based journalist who has written for The New York Times, National Geographic and other national publications.

On page 66, she dusts off her scuba skills to go spearfishing for “Wanted: Lionfish.

Dead or Alive.” “Many years ago, I had a scare underwater,” she says. “But my husband and sons all dive, and I wanted to go with them on this hunt to help save the coral reefs.”

GET CONNECTED

RHODRI MARSDEN is a London-based writer and musician.

He has written columns, features and books about subjects as varied as USB cables, bad dates, social media howlers, Captain Beefheart, cheese, anxiety, perfume and pubs.

He plays in post-punk band Scritti Politti and the TV-theme tribute band Dream Themes.

On page 19, he writes “Plod Casts,” about attending the Boring Conference in London.

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WEBMASTER SALAH LABABIDI

ADVERTISING MANAGING DIRECTOR GERRY RICKETTS U.S. GROUP PUBLISHING DIRECTORS ANDREA CHASE-WARD, JACK GRANT INTERNATIONAL ADVERTISING DIRECTOR STEPHEN ANDREWS VP, STRATEGY AND BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT ANDREA ALEXANDER COMMERCIAL DIRECTOR DAVID BLOOMFIELD VP, SPECIAL PROJECTS CARSTEN MORGAN DIRECTOR, SPECIAL PROJECTS GREG CACCAVALE STRATEGIC ACCOUNTS DIRECTOR (FASHION) ANNA SZPUNAR STRATEGIC ACCOUNTS DIRECTOR (JEWELRY AND WATCHES) BANU YILMAZ U.S. TERRITORY MANAGERS YESHIEKA COPELAND, MARY JO FLORIO, DANIELA GUEVARA, JACK MILLER, ADAM PREWITT, RYAN SADORF HAWAII NELLA MEDIA GROUP EUROPE NATALIE KENNEALLY ASIA LACEY EWIN, JACQUELINE HO PRODUCTION MANAGER JOE MASSEY TEL: +1 678-553-8091 PRODUCTION CONTROLLER STACY WILLIS REGIONAL CREDIT MANAGER CHRISTIAN STORER

THREE PERFECT DAYS

AMONG CANADA’S MARVELOUS MARITIMES

THE HEMI Q&A JESSE EISENBERG CLOWNS AROUND GOODWILL HUNTING SPEARHEADING A PLAN TO SAVE BELIZE’S REEFS BIG TASTY INSIDE THE SOUTHERN FOOD AND BEVERAGE MUSEUM IN NEW ORLEANS

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editorial@hemispheresmagazine.com ABOUT THE COVER

Decorations on the wall of a house in a suburban fishing community near Halifax, Nova Scotia. Photography by Laszlo Podor/Getty Images.

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INK, 68 JAY ST., STE. 315, BROOKLYN, NY 11201 TEL: +1 347-294-1220 FAX: +1 917-591-6247 EDITORIAL@HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

NOVA SCOTIA

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DESIGN DIRECTOR CHRISTOS HANNIDES

AUGUST 2015

FIND US ON facebook.com/UnitedHemispheres twitter.com/hemispheresmag SUBSCRIBE TO HEMISPHERES For a free

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS ERIC BENSON, JOE DELESSIO, BOYD FARROW, STEVE FRIESS, JOE LEMIRE, SARA LIEBERMAN, ADAM K. RAYMOND, CRISTINA ROUVALIS CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS BARRY BRUNER, PHILIP BURKE, MICHAEL BYERS, CHRISTIAN NORTHEAST, LUCI GUTIÉRREZ, JOEL HOLLAND, PJ LOUGHLIN, JAMESON SIMPSON

INK (SALES), 1375 SPRING ST., ATLANTA, GA 30309 TEL: +1 888-864-1733 FAX: +1 917-591-6247

INK CHIEF EXECUTIVES MICHAEL KEATING, SIMON LESLIE CFO JIM CAMPBELL HEMISPHERES is produced monthly by Ink. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions expressed in Hemispheres are not necessarily those of the Publisher or United Airlines, and United Airlines does not accept any responsibility for advertising content. Neither United, its subsidiaries nor affiliates guarantees the accuracy, completeness or timeliness of, or otherwise endorses these facts, views, opinions or recommendations, gives investment advice, or advocates the purchase or sale of any security or investment. You should always seek the assistance of a professional for tax and investment advice.

Any images are supplied at the owner’s risk. Any mention of United Airlines or the use of United Airlines logo by any advertiser in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company or its products or services by United Airlines.

AUGUST 2015 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

09/07/2015 08:04

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#hemigram

Getting Social With Hemispheres

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ant to see your face in Hemispheres? So do we. Please post a pic of yourself with the magazine to social media (Twitter, Instagram or Facebook) with the hashtag #hemigram. We’ll pick our favorites and publish them here each month. And if you tweet your pics to @United, you will likely find yourself favorited and retweeted by your favorite airline.

@AnthonyMeindl I don’t play the guitar, but like @united, I do march to the beat of my own drum. #hemigram #BeWhoYouAre

@rynharrison Flying #unitedairlines back to #LAX. Got a little creative using kaleidoscope style with my eyeball and #Hemispheres! #hemigram

@cheekd @United Airlines taking me from #NYC to my home state of the #Kentucky #Bluegrass #hemigram #love

@jlucash Leaving Vegas and flying over the desert on @united. @hemispheresmag #planes #desert #vegas #engine #landscape #hemigram

@calneff My evening commute @United #firstclass #sunset #hemigram

@r_k_home #hemigram on work conference with mum SFO to San Antonio

@ruthcharmainewhite #Inflight #selfie of my surprise #upgrade to #firstclass on my way home from London.

Loyalty has its privileges. #hemigram #mileageplus #travelnoire

@kyleecoiner Today Boss earned his wings #momentswithboss #travelbuddy #hemigram

@carina_travels If you’re going to San Francisco be sure to wear some flowers in your hair, or at least Hemispheres in your hand. #CarinaGoesToSanFrancisco #hemigram #United

@bchase6 #hemigram #United Flight was loooonnnggg but well worth it!! Had an amazing time! #HemispheresMagazine S/O to my mama!

@vanessajoy Look at my baby finding the good light on the @united plane. :) #united #unitedairlines #lifewithlissi #hemigram

@HugoBalta Lost in Angeles National Forest—not a map, but Hemispheres keeping me in the know #hemigram

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AUGUST 2015 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

09/07/2015 08:05

Š 2015 United Airlines, Inc. All rights reserved. Not available on all ights.

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Stay connected with satellite Wi-Fi and onboard power.

13/07/2015 19:40

ceo letter

Digital Friendly Welcome aboard, and thanks for choosing United

O

ne of the things travelers tell us is that they want more personal control over their travel experience and more information that is timely to help them as they travel.

Technology is key to delivering to you what you have told us you want, and this year we are offering you many new solutions to give you more control over your travel while staying informed, connected and entertained.

Many of our customers are already enjoying the new preview version of our homepage and flight booking features for united.com. The sleek, modern and touch-friendly redesign encompasses everything from finding and filtering flight options to reserving and buying tickets. The new tools help you select the best flights and travel options to meet your needs. We built these features based on feedback from you, our customers, to improve the functionality you value most, making those tools clearer and easier to use. While some users will be automatically directed to the new site while we are in our preview period, we will soon launch the new united.com homepage and flight booking to all users. We will then be releasing additional functionality and new product offerings in phases over the remaining part of this year and into next year.

With technology increasingly shaping every part of your journey, the new united.com is the latest part of our initiative to improve all of our digital channels, including self-service kiosks, self-bag tagging, our award-winning mobile app and more. Our goal is to offer our customers a cohesive, familiar and user-friendly digital experience no matter where they are or what they are looking to accomplish.

Once on board our aircraft, we understand that you want to remain connected and have entertainment options.

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We currently offer Wi-Fi on 90 percent of our domestic mainline fleet, and we are more than two-thirds complete with Wi-Fi installations on our two-cabin regional jets. We already operate more international aircraft with Wi-Fi than any other U.S. airline. By the end of this year, we will offer Wi-Fi connectivity on all mainline and two-cabin regional aircraft (excluding aircraft soon to be retired and select 787-8 retrofits, which will be Wi-Fi-equipped by mid-2016), plus at least one of our entertainment options (DIRECTV, seatback on-demand entertainment or streaming video).

In addition to providing you with the technology you need, we are also investing in tools to help our employees deliver great service. For example, we have started issuing Apple iPhone 6 Plus devices to our flight attendants. While they will be used initially for in-flight retail transactions, flight attendants will later be able to report cabin issues in real time, allowing flight attendants and maintenance teams to be more efficient while helping keep our airline running on time. Additionally, we are developing a number of customer-focused tools for use by our flight attendants to help them better serve our customers.

Thanks again for choosing United. We appreciate your business and look forward to welcoming you back soon.

JEFF SMISEK Chairman of the Board, President and Chief Executive Officer, United Airlines

AUGUST 2015 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

08/07/2015 09:17

Š 2015 United Airlines, Inc. All rights reserved.

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Products tailored for small to mid-sized businesses.

Learn more at united.com/business

08/07/2015 14:34

voices

Safety First, Fun Next Afton Benassi and her husband, Dave, bring extra bliss to the friendly skies

BY RYAN HOOD

hen a customer on board a recent flight told the flight attendants W she’d left her iPad at the security checkpoint, she was nearly resigned to losing the tablet for good. Customers and crew were already on board and the door was moments from closing.

What happened next left everyone in awe.

“First Officer [Afton Benassi] came out,” another customer on board the aircraft wrote in a letter to United. “She said TSA had the iPad but someone would need to go get it. The attendants replied they couldn’t make it—the door was closed already and the gate was near the end of the concourse. Afton looked at the flight attendants inquisitively and said, ‘Oh no! I didn’t mean you. I’ll get it. Please open the door.’”

Nine minutes later, her sprint to and from the checkpoint completed, Benassi was back with the customer’s lost iPad in hand. “At least I don’t 14

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have to do the treadmill at the hotel tonight!” she exclaimed.

“We weren’t a single minute late,” said the customer who wrote about the experience, “but the whole flight took on a different vibe. Everyone in first class smiled. The flight attendants did, too. I’m sure the passenger smiled every time she looked at her iPad. It was the single coolest thing I’ve ever seen any airline employee do.”

It was just another day on the job for Benassi, an affable A-320 first officer whose laughter and positive energy fill every room she enters.

“It’s so easy to be nice to people,” Benassi says. “What an opportunity we have, to come to work, enjoy our job, enjoy who we’re working with and work with so many others who are excited to be here. I’d much rather be laughing and having a good time.

It makes the job so much more fun.

Safety first, fun next.”

Benassi grew up a self-described “airline brat”—her mother spent 32 years in the industry as a sales rep. Benassi majored in business in college, but aviation was in her blood, so she looked to the skies. She attended flight school in Florida, where she met her husband, Dave, and she joined United in 2013.

As she left her interview, the secretary notified her that Dave had just been contacted for an interview. He started at United two months after her, and both have worked here ever since.

Dave flies the Boeing 737, so they haven’t worked the same flight at United, but they look to fly similar schedules so they can spend their free time together. Neither will forget the time, while flying for United Express carrier ExpressJet, they worked the same flight.

“I warned him: If we ever flew together, the only thing I would ask as a first officer that I would never ask another captain is for him to do the pre-flight safety walk-around, since that’s the nice, chivalrous, husbandly thing to do,” Afton says.

“I said I’d do it if it’s not raining,” Dave quips.

Sure enough, it was raining for the next flight they worked together. For a few minutes before departure, Dave was nowhere to be found— because he was doing the walk-around.

That was just one of the many memorable days the Benassis have already experienced in their up-andcoming careers.

“When we fly, we’re taking someone home to see their loved ones, taking them on a business trip, to a funeral, off to college, maybe to the vacation they’ve been saving for,” Afton says.

“That’s what we do as pilots, and that’s what’s so cool about our jobs.

“United is a goal. Everyone’s excited to be here and excited about the future of United Airlines. I know we are, and we definitely have a vested interest in this company.”

The Benassis bought their first home this year and are expecting their first baby in early December.

“With both of us getting to work here,” Afton says, “we feel like we won the lottery.”

AUGUST 2015 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

09/07/2015 08:05

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01/07/2015 14:55

connections

Making an Impact United’s women are soaring to new heights t United Airlines, women make up 42 percent of the workforce, something the company is very proud of.

A For United’s uIMPACT “business resource group,” promoting the advancement of women at the airline—and in aviation broadly—is job one.

In May, more than 100 female employees from all corners of the globe, representing a host of roles at United, participated in an historic all-women aircraft delivery, celebrating the airline’s rich legacy of women in aviation.

The celebration event kicked off in Seattle, where female executives from United and Boeing hosted their comrades with a tour of Boeing’s factory and a celebration dinner at Boeing’s museum of flight.

The next morning, Boeing executives ceremonially handed United executives the keys to a new 737 aircraft before the plane departed Seattle’s Boeing Field for Chicago. Not only were all the seats on the flight occupied by women, but United’s women took the helm: The entire flight was operated by women, from the pilots to the flight attendants to the ramp crews who brought the plane in upon landing at O’Hare.

“This is more than just the promotion and celebration of women at United,” said United’s managing director of Customer Service Excellence and uIMPACT president Mandeep Grewal. “It’s a sign of things to come in our industry.” —MARY RYAN

Ask the Pilot with captain mike bowers I fly quite a bit on United and always read the “Ask the Pilot,” but which routes do you fly? Is there an actual real Captain Mike Bowers?

Q

Yes, and I’m United’s Newark chief pilot. After more than 40 years of flying, I’ll be retiring at the end of the summer.

After earning my pilot’s license in college in 1973, I flew the F-14 Tomcat from aircraft carriers in the Navy for nine years.

I retired after 26 years with the rank of Captain. I’m a graduate of the Navy Fighter Weapons School (TOPGUN). As a commercial pilot (for People Express, Continental and United), I’ve flown the Boeing 727, 737, 757, 767 and 777. In retirement, I’m looking forward to spending more time with my family, especially my seven grandchildren, and playing golf, running, biking, swimming and kayaking.

Those are the things I enjoy but have not had the time to do as much as I would like.

A

You can write to United’s chief pilots by addressing askthepilot@united.com.

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AUGUST 2015 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

07/07/2015 15:08

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03/06/2015 14:33

DISPATCHES NE W S A ND N O T E S F R O M A R O U ND T HE WO R L D

london

Plod Casts Forget TED Talks; the Boring Conference is the hottest ticket in town

S

even-year-old Alex Penman bounds onto a stage at London’s Conway Hall, grinning as a PowerPoint slide appears on a giant screen behind him. It’s a picture of an elevator. “All lifts are interesting,” he yells, “but some are more interesting than others!”

This may be a risky statement to make at the Boring Conference, an annual event that invites speakers to come and discuss their favorite tedious topics. Penman is the event’s youngest ever speaker (by a significant margin), and his enthusiasm, while not entirely appropriate under the circumstances, is proving contagious—he is, as one attendee puts it, “smashing it out of the park.”

James Ward, the man behind the Boring Conference, allows that the title “pitches audience expectation very low,” but the event’s popularity suggests otherwise. This year’s conference, the fifth, has attracted a sellout crowd of 500.

During breaks, attendees speak in reverential tones about past legends like Peter Fletcher, who provided a taxonomy of his sneezes, and George Egg, who revealed how to cook a meal using only items found in hotel rooms.

“These are subjects that might appear trivial on the surface,” says Ward, “but hopefully the conference will reveal why they should be considered more deeply.”

Among the speakers is sociologist Keith Kahn-Harris, who argues that barbaric acts of evil require feats of administrative efficiency. “The problem with the idea of total obliteration of everything and everybody,” he says, “is that’s it’s not hugely practical. Particularly if you’re trying to do it on your own.”

On a lighter note, there’s a talk on the design of the Casio F-91W watch, one about the joys of camping on suburban roundabouts and another (mine) on the barely noticeable effects of British earthquakes. (“One local resident called police to report that his motorbike had toppled over.”)

But it’s Penman who steals the show. “In the Otis 2000,” he says, “the lift doors open on both sides, but”—he pauses for effect—“only on the ground floor!” The crowd erupts, as if Mel Gibson had just delivered his Braveheart speech.

Not all leave impressed, however. “I demand a refund,” one attendee posted on Facebook, on the grounds that she had been “entertained.” —RHODRI MARSDEN

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • AUGUST 2015 • ILLUSTRATIONS BY MARC ROSENTHAL

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07/07/2015 08:45

dispatches west africa

Lesson Learned The road to “D’oh!” is paved with good intentions

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new york city

Fear the Reaper A few brave (or foolish) souls test the might of the world’s hottest pepper unlight streams through the windows of the Brooklyn Expo Center.

S The weather’s nice; the beer’s flowing.

But things are about to get darker.

“Next up, we have the Carolina Reaper eating contest,” an MC announces from the stage at the front of the room.

“Someone’s gonna die.”

The NYC Hot Sauce Expo has never been for the faint of heart (or tongue), but this competition borders on the suicidal. The Carolina Reaper, a small, devil-red chili, is the world’s hottest pepper, reaching 2.2 million on the Scoville heat scale (jalapeños max out at about 10,000).

“It’s going to be like those people who swallow swords,” says a woman in the audience.

“I think swallowing swords might be safer,” her companion replies.

Onstage, the bearded, sleevetattooed MC stands next to a prim young woman in a blazer and skirt.

She’s with Guinness World Records,

here to observe the contest. Also onstage is Ed Currie, the creator of the Reaper, who’s tossing peppers into the crowd. A man in the front row tests his mettle—and throws up.

Finally, the show begins. A redhaired woman wiggles her fingers and tongue like Jimi Hendrix, shoves a few peppers into her mouth and screams. The next contestant gets four down before he starts jumping around, spitting expletives. A nerdy hipster-dad type ends his effort by chugging milk so fast it runs through his beard and onto his plaid shirt.

In the end, the reigning record holder, Russell Todd of Allentown, Pennsylvania, defends his title, downing a remarkable 17 peppers. “I feel great,” he says afterward. “A little shaky, but great.” Things aren’t going so well for another contestant, who’s curled up on the men’s room floor, emitting a groan from the now fiery pit of his stomach. —JUSTIN GOLDMAN

hile on a photography assignment in West Africa recently, I learned that many local schoolchildren write their lessons on wooden tablets.

In remote villages, paper and pens are almost nonexistent, so while this ancient medium isn’t ideal, there really is no alternative.

The tablets are hand-hewn, about the size of a legal pad, and many have a small handle at the end. Often passed down through generations, they have historic and personal meaning. Ink is made by mixing ashes from the evening fire with a little water and mud. A feather or twig serves as a pen. When school is over, the tablet is rinsed in a river or well, and it’s ready to go the following day.

On my next visit to the region, moved by the children’s plight, I filled my bags with paper pads and ink pens, and at the first village I visited I distributed them to a cluster of giggling kids, who seemed delighted with their new school supplies. I went to bed that night feeling good about myself.

The next morning, I was woken by an urgent banging on my door. Outside stood the local schoolteacher. The pads I’d handed out, he told me, had been used as kindling for the evening fire.

As for the pens, the children had used those to scribble on their tablets, and also on themselves. In one fell swoop I had destroyed their learning tools and their family heirlooms.

I spent the day sitting by the riverbank, scrubbing 18 wooden tablets with pumice, rethinking my role as a philanthropist. —JAMES MICHAEL DORSEY

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09/07/2015 15:44

PERFORMING YOUR SURGERY, BEFORE ACTUALLY PERFORMING YOUR SURGERY. THAT’S THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN PRACTICING MEDICINE AND LEADING IT. Surgeons at Houston Methodist use leading-edge technology, like augmented visual imaging, to create a 3-D map of a patient’s body. This unique view of vital structures helps doctors meticulously plan surgeries in advance, leading to not only a more precise surgery but also a less invasive one. It’s just one of the ways we’re advancing neurological care. Travel to the hospital nationally ranked in more specialties than any other hospital in the Gulf Coast.

Learn more about the Houston Methodist difference by visiting HoustonMethodist.org or calling 877.790.3627 to speak with a dedicated liaison.

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07/07/2015 09:41

dispatches los angeles

I Like the Daylife A pop-up dance club offers a place to party before work t’s 6:30 on a Wednesday morning, in a Downtown Los Angeles Iwarehouse, and a man in a giraffe suit is bobbing his head to booming drum-and-bass. Outside, the streets are clogged with commuters, but in here it’s party time. “I’m just trying to have fun,” says a young man named Alex Becker, his smart shirt translucent with sweat.

This pre-work shindig, known as Daybreaker, was founded a couple of years ago in New York City, and it has since become a thing.

The event pops up every couple of weeks in venues across the world, from London to São Paulo to Tel Aviv. And, so far, these events seem to suggest that nightlife can be a lot more fun when it doesn’t happen at night. “ We’ve had a 200-person hug spontaneously happen on the dance floor,” says co-founder Radha Agrawal.

“We’ve had 900 people on a boat singing ‘Let It Be.’” LA, meanwhile, has added its own spin to the affair. Not far from giraffe guy, a tank-topped man pumps a barbell over his head while trading moves with an acrobatic break-dancer. A group of girls, some in full nightclub attire, belt out “I Wanna Dance With Somebody.” A horn section pops up to accompany the crowd. Everybody, explains one reveler, is “buzzed on life.”

At 8:30, the music stops, and people drift to the exit. “I have a change of clothes in the car,” says EB Krawczyk. “I’m not going to work looking like this.” Her friend, Uchenna Fox, is less prepared. “As you can see, I didn’t get the memo,” he says, doing a quick pit-check.

“I’m going straight to a meeting at Disney. It’s going to be interesting.”

—NICOLE PAJER

tokyo

The Sashimi Code How to eat like a Tokyoite

I

f you enjoy a parade, there are worse places to be than Tokyo in August. This month is chock-full of festivals, with streets awash in music and light and women in inscrutable hats. But don’t let the gaiety fool you: Japanese culture is, as ever, riddled with etiquette traps—especially in restaurants. Luckily, there are ways to have a post-festival meal without looking like a total baka. —CHRIS WRIGHT 1 MAKE YOUR ENTRANCE Enter soberly and smartly dressed. There may be plastic replica food on display—don’t pretend to eat it. Wait to be seated by the host, who will likely use the traditional formal greeting, “Irasshaimase.” Smile, bow your head and try to refrain from saying, “Gesundheit.”

2 TAKE YOUR SEAT This step is complicated by the fact that there may not be any seats. If there’s a zashiki setup, with pillows or mats at a low table, remove your shoes, then kneel (preferred, but painful), sit cross-legged (men) or with your legs tucked to the side (women).

It is never OK to lie down.

3 ORDER YOUR MEAL Unless you speak Japanese, ordering will consist of pointing, either at menu images or plastic food. When the meal arrives, you may be surprised to find that what looked like a soufflé is really a sea urchin. Receive it with a polite “Itadakimasu,” resisting the urge to make the last syllable sound like “ew.”

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AUGUST 2015 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

07/07/2015 08:45

WINE ENTHUSIAST RATINGS SCORE OUT OF 100 POINTS

STILLE DI

AUS

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USA

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O

TT

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01/07/2015 10:42

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13/07/2015 10:23

HEMI CULTURE THE MONTH AHEAD TASTEMAKERS STAY LOCAL LOOK TRAVEL ESSAY

THE FAN

ART

COURTESY OF CASEY PARKINSON

Up By Their Bootstraps An art show on the 10-year anniversary of Hurricane Katrina illustrates New Orleans’ comeback

I

t’s a measure of how far New Orleans has come since Hurricane Katrina, perhaps, that one of the major events marking the 10-year anniversary this month makes very little mention of the actual storm. Instead, “REVERB: Past, Present, Future,” at the Contemporary Arts Center, emphasizes what New Orleans has now, rather than what it lost then. Even the familiar tropes of physical

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • AUGUST 2015

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regeneration and civic unity are largely absent from the works here. Messages of progress and hope, the organizers say, are conveyed simply by the quality of the work.

The show is not, however, entirely devoid of context.

The barnacle-covered boots in Casey Parkinson’s installation “Transcendence” (pictured) speak volumes about the ordeals this city has faced. —CHRIS WRIGHT (AUG. 1)

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hemi culture

THE MONTH AHEAD

MUSIC

Anniversary Songs

HIP-HOPERA Lin-Manuel Miranda in “Hamilton”

Three bands celebrate milestones with new albums 10-Year Anniversary TITUS ANDRONICUS THE MOST LAMENTABLE TRAGEDY

These indie rockers have had a busy decade, racking up 800 shows, three albums and 18 band members. Now, on their 10th birthday (and singer Patrick Sickles’ 30th), they’re debuting a “rock opera in five acts” that’s Sickles’ way of “closing the door on my 20s.” (OUT NOW)

STUFF LIKE THAT THERE

To celebrate their first single’s big 3-0, the dream-pop pioneers embark on a world tour and release studio album #14, featuring two new songs, three reworked oldies and covers of the Cure and Sun Ra. (AUG. 28) 40-Year Anniversary MOTÖRHEAD BAD MAGIC

The British speed-metalists commemorate an impressive first 40 years with an equally impressive record release (their 22nd). Motörhead has always followed one guiding principle: write songs you can scream in the shower. Expect more of the same here. —ERIN BRADY (AUG. 28)

theater

All About the Hamiltons, Baby This season’s most anticipated musical gives a founding father the hip-hop treatment

A

lexander Hamilton may not seem like an obvious subject for a hip-hop musical—most rappers would claim Benjamin Franklin as their favorite founding father. But when Lin-Manuel Miranda, creator of the Grammyand Tony-winning musical “In the Heights,” read Ron Chernow’s Hamilton biography while on vacation a few years ago, he says he found it to be “a uniquely hip-hop story.”

“He is wrestling with this question of who are we and what are we going to be,” Miranda says. “The story reminds me of ‘Changes,’ by Tupac. There’s a mix of hopefulness and fatalism that marks both Tupac and Hamilton’s writing.”

Miranda, who stars in the show as well as having written its music and lyrics, is quick to point out that you don’t need to be a hip-hop head to appreciate “Hamilton,” which opens on Broadway this month after winning an Obie and being named best musical by the New York Drama Critics’ Circle during its off-Broadway run. “If you’re a musical theater fan,” he says, “there’s a Rodgers & Hammerstein reference in the second song.” —JUSTIN GOLDMAN (AUG. 6)

“Exiting the train was much like stepping into a storm that swirled in circles. I closed my eyes and listened to the crush around us.

It was like listening to the sea. At heart, we were still two girls from an island where everyone knew everyone else.

This city was a gorgeous mad house.”

QUICK LIT

—From The Marriage of Opposites, the latest novel from New York Times best-selling author Alice Hoffman, about the extraordinary Creole woman from St. Thomas who gave birth to painter Camille Pissarro, the Father of Impressionism. (AUG. 4)

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MATTHEW SALACUSE (YO LA TENGO); JOAN MARCUS (“HAMILTON”)

30-Year Anniversary YO LA TENGO

07/07/2015 08:46

books

May the Throne Be With You A MAX MUMBY/INDIGO/GETTY IMAGES (QUEEN ELIZABETH II, PRINCE CHARLES, MIDDLETON); MARK CUTHBERT/UK PRESS VIA GETTY IMAGES (PRINCE PHILIP); SAMIR HUSSEIN/WIREIMAGE (PRINCE HARRY); ©LUCASFILM LTD./EVERETT COLLECTION (PRINCESS LEIA, CHEWBACCA); TRISTAN FEWINGS/GETTY IMAGES (FERGUSON); ANWAR HUSSEIN/WIREIMAGE (PRINCE GEORGE); MARY EVANS/LUCASFILM/RONALD GRANT/EVERETT COLLECTION (R2-D2); STEVE BARDENS/THE FA VIA GETTY IMAGES (PRINCE WILLIAM)

s the new Star Wars epic draws near, Topps is taking us back to simpler, less sequely times. On August 18, the company releases a book featuring 330 trading cards from so this month, it the original 1977 film. Also it’ss open h house at

Yoda and Queen Elizabeth II OK, so the wise one wasn’t in the original film—and neither was Yoda. But there’s a sense in which the Grand Jedi Master permeates every aspect of the Star Wars universe, in much the same way that the Queen’s spirit (or at least her face) is everywhere in the U.K. Ubiquitous, one is.

C-3PO and Prince Charles Beyond the physical similarities, there are ways in which the Star Wars droid and the heir to the throne are alike.

Both can be haughty and opinionated, with a tendency to take themselves rather seriously. At least when Charles complains, he starts a charity to do something about it.

Luke Skywalker and Prince William Handy with a lightsaber, brave in battle and principled in leadership, appealingly blond, and yet—let’s be honest— the Jedi Master still comes across as a bit drippy. Take away the space-age weaponry and pop spirituality and, of course, you have the future king of England.

R2-D2 and Prince George Small, round, given to communicating via chirps and whistles, the first-born son to the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge has provided British royalty with a muchneeded uptick in adorability, in much the same way that the stumpy astromech android did for the film.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • AUGUST 2015

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Buckingham Palace, an event that allows the hoi polloi to wander the property—and possibly help the Queen figure out where she left her glasses. As for what the Windsors have in common with these erstwhile warriors, ahem… —CW

Darth Vader and Prince Philip Philip has been referred to as “the power behind the throne,” and those who meet him have noted that he can be intimidating. Also, as the Duke has undoubtedly said to Prince Charles on a number of occasions: “I am your father.”

Han Solo and Prince Harry Both Harry and Han come across as arrogant and irresponsibly reckless at first, but the swagger, it seems, masks a manly yet sensitive core, topped off with a great head of hair, a good sense of humor, a strong chin and a knack for aerial combat. What’s not to love?

Princess Leia and Kate Middleton It’s hard to find a bad word to say about either of these vaguely glamorous women. Both conduct themselves with dignity and grace. Leia is more of a fighter than Kate, but Kate is better at field hockey. Both possess reserves of intelligence and resolve.

Chewbacca and Sarah Ferguson The Duchess of York and the flame-haired Wookiee have always had the best coifs in their respective universes. Sadly, while Chewie is set to make a comeback in the new film, a royal return seems unlikely for Fergie.

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hemi culture

THE MONTH AHEAD

BLUNT FORCE Jonathan Ames and Patrick Stewart on the set of “Blunt Talk”

bullet points

Seriously Funny Patrick Stewart does not take comedy lightly atrick Stewart started out at the Royal Shakespeare Company and has since become known for his roles in the Star Trek updates and the X-Men franchise, all while keeping his hand in the theater. At 75, after a lifetime of playing noble kings for the stage and heroic captains for the big screen, Stewart returns to TV this month (on Starz) as Walter Blunt, a dissolute, bombastic and charming talk show host in the Seth MacFarlane–Jonathan Ames sitcom “Blunt Talk.” In his defense, Stewart says of his funny-man role, Laurence Olivier would approve. —CW

• ON VERSATILITY It was a necessity of life when I started out. You played the roles they gave you.

The Royal Shakespeare Company was another matter—I did get typecast there, though the type kept changing. There was a time when I was considered suitable for low comedy, then the hysterical neurotic, then I got stuck with noble kings. Now I find myself in the lead role of a half-hour comedy show.

• ON WALTER BLUNT He’s not a noble character. He’s just divorced his fourth wife, his show’s in trouble, he’s disillusioned and actually

quite angry, and as a result he seeks comfort in all sorts of stimulants and encounters, and so gets into all these terrible scrapes. But he is a man with something to say, with an ambition to make the world a better place.

• ON BECOMING A COMIC ACTOR As a teenager, my biggest hero was Laurence Olivier. I once heard him on the radio being interviewed and, to my amazement, he said that it’s wonderful to hear an audience gasp, or sob, or express horror or dismay, but it’s so much more rewarding to hear them laugh. At the time, I thought, “What?”

But, of course, he was absolutely right.

I would be entirely content if, in the end, the character I’m remembered for is Walter Blunt.

• ON ABANDONING “PROPER ACTING” I do recall being at a fancy event in London, with lots of grand members of my profession, and here’s me, who’s been shooting science fiction in Hollywood.

But the only mention of that—and it happened over and over, sometimes privately but very often shouted across the room—came in the form of a question: “How much are they paying you?”

COURTESY OF STARZ

P

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09/07/2015 08:07

S I N G L E , S U C C E S S F U L , S E L E C T I V E . . . S I M PL Y T O O B U S Y ?

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09/06/2015 08:53

hemi culture TA ST E M A K E R S

BIG IN JAPAN Chef Mark Hellyar serving up mentaiko spaghetti at Chicago’s Momotaro

chicago

The Noodle Invasion Could mentaiko spaghetti be the next ramen?

BY ELAINE GLUSAC PHOTOGRAPHY BY RYAN LOWRY

W

hile ramen rage continues unabated in cities around the world, another less familiar Japanese noodle dish is beginning to make inroads into restaurant menus outside of its homeland: mentaiko spaghetti, a timezone toss-up of hot Western pasta piqued by its namesake ingredient, savory pollock roe cured in salt, garlic and chilies.

“It is easy to find many fusion dishes in Japan, but mentaiko spaghetti must be one of the best mashups of Italy and Japan,” HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • AUGUST 2015

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says Tokyo-based author Yukari Sakamoto, who runs culinary tours through Food Sake Tokyo. According to Sakamoto, mentaiko spaghetti first appeared in a Tokyo restaurant called Kabe no Ana (literally “hole in the wall”) in the 1950s.

“Mentaiko, and any fish roe, has natural umami, that magical fifth flavor that fills your mouth with savory flavor, which becomes a great sauce for pasta,” she says. “Often it’s just a matter of adding some butter and mentaiko to hot spaghetti.

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hemi culture TA ST E M A K E R S

Some of my friends will also add mayonnaise for more fat and flavor.” The resulting dish is rich, creamy and pleasantly pink.

Like ramen before it, mentaiko spaghetti is now making its way across the Pacific, appearing in restaurants around the United States for the first time, often with unique twists.

At LA’s Del Rey Kitchen, for example, the dish is bolstered with masago (capelin roe), plus butter sauce and nori for an added burst of umami.

Chef Mark Hellyar spent two years working in Japan prior to opening Momotaro in Chicago last fall. There, he serves a buttery version spiked with rayu sesame oil and fresh ginger juice. “People go out for mentaiko in Japan like people here go out for spaghetti and meatballs,” Hellyar says.

“It’s salty, sweet, fishy and strong, so it’s good to sit on top of something that can carry the flavor, like spaghetti, rice or potatoes,” says Katsuya Fukushima, chef and co-owner of Daikaya, in Washington, D.C., which serves the roe with spaghetti and over rice.

While mentaiko is a comfort food in Japan, stateside tastes remain a hurdle. “We describe it on the menu as ‘spicy cod roe,’ but still that’s a little scary,” Fukushima says. “Maybe we should call it ‘spicy cod caviar.’”

maui

PETAL PUSHERS Hydrosol drops bring a floral bouquet to your cocktail

K

erry Mekeel rolls up to work at Maui’s Hotel Wailea in a black pickup truck full of vibrant young green coconuts that will soon be split open with a machete and used in cocktails, alongside fresh-pressed juices, local kombucha and housemade syrups. But the unsung star ingredient at her poolside apothecary bar, The Cabanas, just might be her lineup of hydrosols, or floral waters. Made by steam-distilling plants, hydrosols are subtler than perfumey essential oils—though you still need only a few drops to impart a fresh-from-the-garden scent and flavor.

“Bad mixers nauseate you,” Mekeel says. “But you feel clean with hydrosols. The frequency of the plant gives you a natural high. Not only are you getting the scent and flavor of the plant matter, but also the full medicinal value of the plant.” In her Flower Power concoction, Mekeel adds just a few drops of lavender essence to gin, lemon juice, housemade rose syrup and club soda. “This is truly a lady’s drink,” she says. “Everything is so subtle, but you feel the lavender and rose and want to hug yourself.”

Bartenders across the country are distilling their own blooms. One drop of orchid hydrosol resting in an orchid petal amplifies the floral taste of Crème d’Yvette in the Cocchi Americano and of the grappa in the High Violet at Chicago’s Allium. Hibiscus hydrosols show versatility in Asian- and Latin-inspired drinks, from a sparkling sake slushie at San Jose’s RockBar Theater to the hibiscus margarita at Mexican Sugar, in Plano, Texas. In NYC, freshly crushed and distilled rosewater finishes the gin-based Rhubarb and Rose cocktail at The Gander. —AMBER GIBSON

FLOWER POWER Yields one drink • 2 oz. Hendrick’s gin • 1 oz. housemade rose syrup (recipe below) • 1 oz. fresh Meyer lemon juice • 2–4 drops lavender hydrosol HATCHING A NEW TREND Momotaro’s mentaiko spaghetti

BOARDING PASS

If you’re craving mentaiko at Momotaro, United offers nearly 600 daily flights to Chicago.

Try Economy Plus extra-legroom seats for more space on your flight. For more information visit united.com.

Shake ingredients, top with carbonated f iltered water. Garnish with lemon zest.

ROSE SYRUP RECIPE

Combine equal parts dried heirloom or antique rose petals, organic light brown cane sugar and f iltered water.

Heat on low to melt sugar and gently extract flavor and color of rose.

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09/07/2015 08:08

SOUTHERN FOOD WILL RISE AGAIN Chef Ryan Hughes of Purloo; below: an exhibit at the Southern Food & Beverage Museum

new orleans

A Taste of History A new museum proves the future of New Southern cooking is rooted firmly in its past

BY BLANE BACHELOR PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRYAN TARNOWSKI

I

n most museums, eating and drinking are forbidden, no-nos that stern guards rarely miss the chance to wag their fingers at.

But at the Southern Food & Beverage Museum (or SoFAB) in New Orleans, a city famous for both its food and making its own rules, the aroma of home cooking hints at a more relaxed vibe. In fact, visitors are urged to stroll the halls with a Sazerac in hand or a nibble from whatever’s cooking on-site.

It’s a fitting practice for a 16,000-square-foot homage to the cuisine and culture south of the Mason-Dixon Line. Opened in 2008, the nonprofit museum, which includes the Museum of the American Cocktail, moved to its current home last fall, inside an old market in the burgeoning Central City district.

To preserve the laid-back feel, director and founder Liz Williams says the exhibitions avoid “precious, pretty things” in favor of “everyday things that people cook with,” displaying items donated from the private collections of “ARTIFACTS, families, chefs and restaurateurs. “I think that MEMORABILIA ‘everydayness’ is much more interesting, and it’s really what we’re about,” she says. Organized AND ACTUAL by region, the artifacts, memorabilia and actual FOODSTUFFS— foodstuffs—from humble cans of baked beans FROM HUMBLE CANS to authentic absinthe drips—convey the rich OF BAKED BEANS history of eating and drinking in the South.

When the museum reopened last fall, it came TO AUTHENTIC with a notable addition: Purloo, an on-site resABSINTHE DRIPS— taurant named for a humble Lowcountry dish CONVEY THE RICH that’s made with a pot of rice and whatever HISTORY OF EATING else is on hand. Helmed by chef Ryan Hughes, AND DRINKING an Ohio native who has worked at some of IN THE SOUTH.” New Orleans’ top restaurants, the airy space is anchored by an open kitchen and a circa-1851 bar; believed to be the city’s oldest, it moved here after its former home, Bruning’s, was destroyed by Hurricane Katrina.

The menu highlights old-school influences and flavors, many of which had been forgotten, like Cape Hatteras clam chowder (made with broth, not cream); lamb burgoo, a spicy stew from Kentucky; and Alabama Lane Cake (pictured below), a dessert mentioned repeatedly in To Kill a Mockingbird.

Hughes’ travels in the South provided inspiration. “I would go and talk to farmers and grandmothers and sit on their front porches and talk about what they made and ate in their homes,” he says. “You get so much original information that way. g yI would take a look k at all the Junior League recipe books, because everybody puts their heir best recipes in there.”

“I’m not trying ng to modernize it, tweak it, gentrify it, foamify mify it,” Hughes says.

“It’s about showing wing people that there is amazingg food all over the South.”

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08/07/2015 14:15

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08/01/2015 15:54

hemi culture STAY

stay

A Peaceful Retreat in Spain’s Bustling Capital HOTEL URSO, MADRID

O

pened last August, Madrid’s first five-star boutique hotel occupies a 1913 paper factory and retains many of the neoclassical building’s original design trappings, such as rich oak paneling, stained glass windows and an azulejo-tile-lined facade. Inside, the contemporary decor by designer Antonio Obrador feels like a cross between a Victorian gentleman’s club (wingback chairs, leather-bound books) and a Japanese ryokan (potted bamboo, screens printed with cranes).

The serenity is palpable, especially in the on-site URSO Spa by Natura Bissé, which features a hammam (Turkish bath) and an impossibly chic hydrotherapy pool.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • AUGUST 2015

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hemi culture STAY

A Tech-Driven Thai Chain Hits the U.S. DUSITD2 HOTEL CONSTANCE, PASADENA

BACKSTORY The Dusit brand has been a luxury mainstay in its native Thailand—and across Asia and the Middle East—since 1948, and it added the youthful, tech-driven dusitD2 line to its portfolio back in 2006. Last fall, Dusit’s first U.S. property debuted in a converted 1920s hotel in Pasadena—directly on the Rose Parade route, of course—as part of a hotel boomlet that promises to reinvigorate this once-sleepy hamlet. The first phase of development brings 130 rooms; next year will see the addition of a lounge, a rooftop pool and a spa.

DESIGN NOTES Opened in 1926 by socialite Constance Perry, the grand Hotel Constance once attracted scores of Midwesterners hoping to escape the winter snow. You’ll still find the occasional era-appropriate detail—coffered ceilings, carved marble friezes on the facade, a serene fountain in the courtyard. But thanks to a $60 million renovation and redesign by Hong Kong–based designer Joey Ho, the vibe here now skews more modern, with sleek white furnishings, modish curvilinear installations and a cool palette of greens and blues.

AMAZING AMENITIES Home to Caltech and a burgeoning startup scene, Pasadena ranks as one of SoCal’s most progressive tech hubs. Engineers will love the hotel’s thoughtful use of technology, from in-room iPads (to adjust the AC or lighting, make reservations or call housekeeping), to a smart key system that alerts housekeeping when you’re out of the room, to the most important gadget of all: the ultra-smart toilets found in all suites, which come complete with built-in bidets and blow dryers.

WHAT YOU’LL FIND JUST OUTSIDE Among snobbier Angelenos, Pasadena is seen as out-of-the-way and suburban, but there’s a lot going on here—from the stunning city hall (which served as the Pawnee government offices on NBC’s “Parks and Recreation”) to the boutiques and cafés of Old Pasadena.

The city also has a surprisingly robust art scene, including the modern-skewing collection at the Norton Simon Museum and the immaculately manicured grounds, rare manuscripts and world-famous paintings at the Huntington Library, Art Collections and Botanical Gardens.

Art Deco Elegance in Mexico’s Capital HIPPODROME HOTEL CONDESA, MEXICO CITY

DESIGN NOTES Everything but the 1931 Art Deco framework is brand new here, following a 16-month, $3 million renovation. Reopened this January, the interior is done up in understated grays and plums. Much of the decor calls to mind the geometric angularity and metallic shininess of the hotel’s Art Deco heyday—beveled mirrors, cut-out steel partitions—but you’ll also find contemporary design touches, such as furnishings covered in velvety silver manta ray skin.

ROOM WITH A VIEW T h e balcony of room 303 looks out onto a calming living wall of succulents with playful names like burro’s tails, hens and chicks, and panda plants. Living (or green) walls are increasingly popular in this metropolis of 21 million people. In fact, they’re a pet project of Secretary of the Environment Tanya Müller García, who recently reported that three feet of green wall can produce enough oxygen to sustain one person for an entire year.

WHAT YOU’LL FIND JUST OUTSIDE The bohemian Condesa district was developed in the 1920s on land that once held the horseracing track that gave the hotel its name.

Instead of razing the hipódromo, city planners repurposed it in a clever way: The oval track became the vibrant Avenida Amsterdam; the field in the center, the Parque México, one of the capital’s loveliest urban green spaces.

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AUGUST 2015 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

07/07/2015 08:53

FINALLY! AN UNTUCKED SHIRT AT THE PERFECT LENGTH.

We started UNTUCKit because we had trouble finding shirts that looked good untucked. Most were too long and looked sloppy when not tucked in. It shouldn’t have been that difficult, but it was. So we decided to launch a shirting company marketed exclusively for those who want to wear their shirts untucked. We would make a better shirt. One fit for comfort and not convention; designed to fall at the perfect length.

An untucked shirt. And that’s what we’ve done.

untuckit.com No.39628_Untuckit.indd 1

So go ahead…UNTUCKit!

06/05/2015 11:21

hemi culture local look

On Lagos Style INTERVIEW BY SARA LIEBERMAN PHOTOGRAPHY BY LAKIN OGUNBANWO

S

ince debuting her line, Maki Oh, in 2010, Nigerian-born designer Amaka Osakwe has shown at New York Fashion Week and dressed the likes of Michelle Obama and Solange Knowles.

Her sophisticated silhouettes combine traditional and contemporary fabrics for an understated flair. Here, the 28-year-old Lagosian talks about what to wear and where to shop in Nigeria’s style capital.

WHAT IS THE STYLE LIKE IN LAGOS? It's very bold and flamboyant. With one celebration or another every weekend, the average Lagosian has multiple “Sunday Bests.” Everyone from all walks of life, and every age group, dresses to impress, and Lagosians are very unapologetic about this.

HOW WOULD YOU SUGGEST A VISITOR PACK? Sunscreen, sunglasses, a few party dresses—because during your visit, you will be invited to an opening or a wedding or a birthday party or a naming ceremony or a party (because we party). And, of course, a bag full of wit and tenacity.

DO YOU COLLECT ANYTHING IN PARTICULAR WHEN IT COMES TO FASHION? I try to collect pieces of clothing in traditional Nigerian fabric, most of which are vintage and show the true couture-quality workmanship of classic dressmaking techniques.

WHERE DO YOU LIKE TO SHOP IN LAGOS? ALÁRA concept store for its wonderful curation; Stranger Lagos for all that black; A Whitespace Lagos for their interesting pop-ups; Nike Art Gallery for vintage African fabric; and Lekki Market for handmade goodies.

TELL US ABOUT TODAY'S LOOK. My clothing and bag are Maki Oh. This shirt is a favorite because it is one of the first hand-dyed indigo silk shirts I ever made. It's rich, organic and charged with my Nigerian heritage. My shoes are the most comfortable Lanvin sandals ever.

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09/07/2015 08:09

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hemi culture

travel essay

Nice to Meet You, Now Leave Me Be It’s easy to make friends while traveling—maybe a little too easy

BY CHRIS WRIGHT

O

f all the hazards associated with travel, the hardest to avoid is the attention of your fellow travelers. They get you on buses and trains, boats and airplanes, luring you in with an innocuous-sounding snippet of small talk, then subjecting you to a journeyspanning soliloquy regarding a grandchild’s impressive SAT results, the advantages of BMW’s adjustable coilover HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • AUGUST 2015 • ILLUSTRATION BY MICHAEL BYERS

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07/07/2015 08:55

hemi culture T R AV E L E SSAY

suspension, or how Napoléon was the architect of his own demise. It is the verbal equivalent of being manacled to a radiator, and it needs to be stopped.

Some people might be glad of the distraction, but not me. When I go away, I want everyone to go away. I view journeys as me-me-me time, like a day at the spa minus the scent of ylang-ylang and with a giant Toblerone thrown in. The cell phone is off. The laptop is closed.

I’ve got my books and my magazines. The last thing I need is a chatty claims adjuster named Dave attaching himself to the side of my head.

I’m not completely antisocial. I’ve had my share of en-route buddies over the years, including a lovely Englishwoman named Helen, a politics major at Boston University. I can still recall my furious attempts to sound informed about the political situation in Russia (which, if memory serves, was “unraveling”) and Britain’s position in the EU (“precarious”). There’s a real possibility that, on this occasion, I was the boring guy who wouldn’t shut up, but Helen didn’t seem to mind.

Four years later, she flew back to the U.K. and left me on my own.

Back then, even when I wasn’t enjoying a fellow traveler’s company, I endured. The reason for this, I think, was that I’d

“WHEN I GO AWAY, I WANT EVERYONE TO GO AWAY. I VIEW JOURNEYS AS ME-ME-ME TIME, LIKE A DAY AT THE SPA MINUS THE SCENT OF YLANGYLANG AND WITH A GIANT TOBLERONE THROWN IN.” convinced myself there was something enriching about it, that conversing with a tipsy plumber from Finland would broaden my horizons, when all it did was teach me that there are idiots in Helsinki who throw all sorts of things down the toilet, including, once, an empty herring tin.

But I am older now, old enough to have learned to avoid eye contact with people like Jari. I’ve learned, too, that you cannot relax even when you reach your destination.

Outdoor cafés are particularly perilous, like the watering holes in nature documentaries, teeming with boring

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07/07/2015 08:57

the fan

crocodiles just waiting to grab you and pull you in. Nor are you safe in hotel lobbies, art museums or shops that sell novelty keychains. Let your guard down for an instant, and a conversational predator will pounce.

There is, of course, a thick vein of snobbery running through these complaints. The traveler, as opposed to the mere tourist, craves the company of Amahuacan basket weavers but recoils in horror from insurance adjusters.

He diligently avoids any place where there is the slightest possibility of encountering a fanny pack, but then ends up sitting in some obscure bar surrounded by locals, unable to understand a single word they are saying, thinking how nice it might be if chatty Dave were here.

Meanwhile, for the truly authentic traveler, things can get a whole lot worse than this. For example, you might find yourself spending eight days sitting in a hand-hewn indigenous canoe with a bunch of intolerably ecoconscious people, with little to do except count spider bites and identify the bad smells and think about how nice it might be if chatty Dave were here.

This is the inescapable impulse, the craving for familiar companionship, that leads us to exchange contact information with people we meet on vacation. We have all done this, and some of us have had cause to regret it. In my case,

the regret came in the form of a Liverpudlian named Sean, with whom I’d bonded in a Costa Blanca tapas bar and who seemed to have missed the bit in the Traveler’s Code stating that people who exchange numbers under such circumstances should never use them. Google the phrase “awkward night out” and the first hit will be an image of Sean and me sitting in a London pub, staring intently at our coasters.

Which only goes to reinforce my original point. Even when we think we’re getting along with our fellow travelers, we probably aren’t. And this, in the end, makes perfect sense. Statistically, the odds of chancing across a genuine friendship on a Florentine piazza or a Siberian steppe, or even a Greyhound bus, are vanishingly slim.

Perhaps tour companies will one day develop a set of algorithms similar to those used on dating sites, which will match travelers according to their interests and personality types. Until that day arrives, I’m keeping my headphones on.

Hemispheres executive editor CHRIS WRIGHT would like to point out that Napoléon did indeed make many strategic mistakes in his military campaigns, including his ill-fated march on Moscow in 1812.

National Gallery of Art Where masterpieces by European and American artists are joined by exhibitions spanning the world and the history of art

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09/07/2015 09:15

hemi culture the fan

Ref Life It’s long been said that English soccer referees need to have a thick skin, but it’s getting to the point where they need armored personnel carriers

BY CHRIS WRIGHT

I

magine you’re at work, standing across the room from a colleague who’s been accused of slipping a stapler into his bag—and not just any stapler, but a diamond-studded stapler worth, say, $10 million. Your boss has left it up to you to decide whether said colleague took the stapler or not, despite the fact that your view was obstructed by a photocopier. Your co-workers have mobbed around you, half of them screaming that the guy’s innocent and half screaming that he’s not. You have exactly one second to make up your mind.

If this sounds a tad stressful, you’d best not apply for a job as an English Premier League referee. The men responsible for officiating the world’s fastest, richest and most competitive soccer league face situations similar to the above every time they take the field, with the added pressure of tens of thousands of fans baying for blood and the knowledge that their decisions will be picked apart later before a TV audience of millions, some of whom will send death threats via Twitter.

“You have to be mentally strong, mentally tough, to go out there and do this,” says Mark Halsey, who spent 15 years as a top-level referee before retiring two years ago. “If not, you’ll get swallowed alive.” Halsey writes about such matters for a website, You Are the Ref, which started out as a comic-strip quiz exploring tricky refereeing decisions but has morphed into the U.K.’s leading arbiter of contentious issues related to the profession, of which there are many.

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If refs were under pressure before Halsey and his YATR colleagues started weighing in, they’re facing a far more daunting challenge now. Keith Hackett, the website’s director, gained a reputation as a tough referee during his 20-odd years in the game (he retired in 1994), but his commentaries on YATR, many of which end up in national newspaper headlines, can be brutal.

“This season, we have all witnessed many disastrous performances and big game-changing errors,” he wrote earlier this year, referring to the EPL campaign

that ended in May. He went on to say that “the current group of professional referees is the worst that we have seen,” then followed this up with a list of the refs he believes should be fired.

It’s become a commonly held belief in England that referees are becoming increasingly error prone, unfit and weak-willed, but to have a heavy-hitter like Hackett blaring this notion across the land has effectively rubber-stamped it. England’s official refereeing body, Professional Game Match Officials Limited, responded by releasing

ILLUSTRATION BY DAVID PLUNKERT • AUGUST 2015 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

07/07/2015 08:58

statistics showing that accuracy rates have gone up (from 94.1 percent five years ago to 95 percent now). Even this rather limp defense, however, is subject to a withering rebuttal from YATR. “Let’s not argue figures, because they don’t really count,” says Hackett.

“You can make 500 correct throw-in decisions, but what we’re talking about are decisions that influence the outcome of a game, and it’s here that we’ve seen a catalog of errors. We’ve had cases where the wrong player has been sent off. How does that happen?”

One such incident occurred in March of last year, in a game between London rivals Chelsea and Arsenal, when the ref sent off Arsenal defender Kieran Gibbs for handball, when the offense had been committed by another player who also had dark skin. This was by no means the only high-profile blunder—every game these days, it seems, has an awful foul going unpunished, a valid goal disallowed, or a bit of play-acting rewarded with a penalty.

It’s probably no coincidence that the apparent drop in refereeing standards has coincided with the proliferation of post-match punditry. Given that every single decision a referee makes now is subjected to endless second-guessing, it makes sense that we’re seeing more mistakes. Even Hackett, the Godzilla of critics, concedes this point. “Referees at the Premier League level are operating before a minimum of 24 television cameras,” he says, “so, yes, every error is highlighted.”

These errors are compounded by the frenetic pace of the game today, along

“YOU TRY TO STAY AWAY FROM THE MEDIA, BUT IT’S ALL AROUND YOU—CRITICISM, CRITICISM, CRITICISM—AND THERE’S NOTHING IN PLACE TO HELP YOU GET THROUGH IT.” with the trend toward “simulation”— crying foul in order to win a free kick or get an opposing player sent off—and the on-field bullying of referees.

The pressure gets even worse when you consider the money that’s at stake.

Last year, the Premier League recorded revenues of $5 billion, the highest of any soccer league in the world by a wide margin. The 2015 champions, Chelsea, scored a $150 million bonus payment. The loss of a single point can cost a club millions. A refereeing decision that consigns a team to relegation (each season, the EPL’s bottom three teams drop to a lower league) is akin to financial assassination.

As the stakes rise, so do the passions that have always surrounded the game in England. Where once a referee could expect to be barraged with mocking chants from the crowd, he now faces a far more sinister form of abuse.

In 2012, after ejecting a Liverpool player during a game with Manchester United, Halsey met with a torrent of hatred on Twitter, much of it focusing on the fact that both he and his wife had previously been diagnosed with cancer.

“People were saying awful things, like, ‘I hope it kills you both; I hope your daughter gets it.’ She was 6 at the time. I remember her asking, ‘Daddy,

why do people want us to die?’” When the abuse turned into specific threats, Halsey notified the police.

Such experiences, says Halsey, could result in mental health issues.

“There was a referee in Germany who attempted suicide,” he says, referring to a 2011 incident in which a Bundesliga official cut his wrists before a game.

“So, you do worry. You try to stay away from the media, but it’s all around you—criticism, criticism, criticism— and there’s nothing to help you get through it.”

All of which raises the question: Why would YATR heap even more criticism on beleaguered referees? “We have been critical,” says Hackett, “but at the same time, we are looking at ways to try to fix things.” Also, he adds, as someone who has taken his share of flack over the years, he feels justified in dishing it out.

“I used to hate getting into cabs,” he says. “Because I knew, the second the driver looked in the mirror, I was in for a long journey.”

Hemispheres executive editor and Chelsea fan CHRIS WRIGHT would like to say that he is fully supportive of professional referees, even if they have ruined his life on several occasions.

JUDGMENT CALLS The EPL has considered a number of remedies to the issue of questionable officiating. Here are a few.

PUNISHMENT

TRAINING

TECHNOLOGY

RECRUITMENT

Some pundits have suggested that underperforming referees should be demoted to lower leagues, either temporarily or permanently. Less dramatic proposals include post-match inquisitions, in which referees are called on to justify their decisions, and regular performance reviews.

While everyone agrees that there is no substitute for experience (along with a natural ability to stay calm and focused under pressure), there is a growing call for referees to be provided with more training to improve their physical fitness and decision-making abilities.

The successful introduction of goal-line technology has led to calls for more gadgetry.

Some would like referees to have access to video replays during games; others suggest an additional official watching the game on a remote screen and offering judgment calls to the referee via an earpiece.

Hackett is among a growing number of pundits arguing that the EPL, the world’s most multicultural soccer league, should start recruiting referees from abroad rather than relying exclusively on British officials, the majority of whom (according to Hackett) aren’t very good.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • AUGUST 2015

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07/07/2015 09:42

BRIGHT IDEAS INNOVATION

BUSINESS

GADGETRY

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‘Bioconcrete’ that Heals Its Own Cracks T he old rhyme “Step on a crack, break your mother’s back” may soon be seen as quaintly outdated. That’s because, thanks to research at the Delft University of Technology in the Netherlands, the very concept of a sidewalk crack could become a thing of the past. Cement is the world’s most widely used building material, but unavoidable cracks lead to leaks that weaken steel support systems, causing serious damage or even collapse. To solve this costly, potentially disastrous issue, microbiologist Henk Jonkers has invented a “bioconcrete” that boasts the nearly superheroic power of healing its own cracks, much as skin self-heals after a cut. While this innovation may sound sci-fi, the concept actually draws on the least hightech source imaginable: The cement is infused with a “healing agent” made of calcium lactate (found in baking powder) and a strain of bacteria that is literally found under a rock. Here’s how Jonkers is taking a crack at solving one of construction’s most persistent problems. —NICHOLAS DERENZO

1 Cement is a highly alkaline substance that is an inhospitable home for most organisms. Researchers searched far and wide for a bacterium that could handle the job, settling on the genus Bacillus, which can be found inside rocks and near active volcanoes. The bacteria, which can remain dormant for up to 200 years, are placed inside biodegradable capsules alongside calcium lactate and then mixed into cement, spread throughout like blueberries in a muffin.

2 Once a crack forms in the cement and water reaches the capsules, the microbes spring into action, awakening from their dormancy, multiplying and then eating the calcium lactate. During the “digestion” process, the calcium lactate is transformed into calcite, or pure limestone, which seals the crack like a scab.

3 In addition to being used directly in construction, Jonkers’ healing agent comes in a sprayable version that can be applied to already-formed cracks, much like a liquid bandage. The spray is slated to be released this year, while bioconcrete is expected to first be used in construction projects in 2016.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • AUGUST 2015 • ILLUSTRATION BY JAMESON SIMPSON

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13/07/2015 19:41

bright ideas industry

Let’s Not Uber Do It There’s a lot to be said for the convenience and low cost of the on-demand economy, but instant gratification isn’t everything

BY BOYD FARROW

T

he best thing about staying in a fancy hotel has always been that you can press a button and someone will instantly bring you a drink or a meal. Press another and you can get an extra blanket, or somebody to sew a button onto your shirt. It’s like having your mom on call.

Now, thanks to our GPS-enabled lifestyles and competitive transaction costs, such perks are moving into all corners of urban life. At the push of a button, or the tap of a screen, we can summon an army of smiley strangers eager to fulfill our every whim.

Blame (or thank) Uber. Upon its 2010 launch, the wildly successful personal driver app gave us a glimpse into a kind of faux-aristocratic lifestyle—“Bring the car round, James”—and we haven’t really known where to stop. From dog walkers to personal chefs, the illusion of a “Downton Abbey”–style downstairs staff is within everyone’s grasp.

Over the last five years, according to financial analysts CB Insights, startups associated with the on-demand economy have received around $10 billion in investment funding—a dynamic that marketing firm WPP has called “Attack of the Uber-Clones.” All a company needs to do these days is position itself as the “Uber of Newspaper Delivery” or the “Uber of Sock Darning” and the venture capitalists will be falling over each other to get involved.

And, in many instances, they’re right to do so. Postmates, a delivery service that uses more than 10,000 couriers across the U.S. (it aims to be the “Uber of Goods”) is racking up 70,000 orders a week, and the company recently teamed up with Starbucks so customers can get their skinny lattes delivered to their desks. Take that, Tony in accounting!

According to Matthew Wong, lead research analyst at CB Insights, this approach to customer service is quickly becoming the norm—and not only in the U.S. “Versions have launched throughout Europe and Asia, targeting the same demographic of well-paid but time-poor city dwellers,” he says.

“WHAT HAPPENS WHEN THE ON-DEMAND ECONOMY EXTENDS TO SUCH SERVICES AS BABYSITTING? IT SEEMS FAIR TO ASSUME THAT MOST PEOPLE WOULD OPT FOR OLD-FASHIONED FAMILIARITY OVER CONVENIENCE.”

It sounds all well and good, but what happens when the on-demand economy extends to more significant services?

Already, a website called Doctor On Demand touts “fast, easy and cost-effective access” to some of the best psychologists (the “Uber of Shrinks”?) in the U.S. It seems fair to assume that most people would, in this instance, opt for old-fashioned familiarity and continuity over convenience. The same goes for babysitting, hairdressing, Reiki massages. And herein lies a problem: To achieve the low cost/high convenience combo demanded by the Uber generation, on-demand companies employ legions of freelancers with whom you’d be hard-pressed to get on a first-name basis.

While no one’s suggesting that such companies might suddenly adopt a mom-and-pop approach to doing business, there are at least signs of a heightened emphasis on personal service.

Gourmet food e-tailer Artizone, for instance, offers its clients (not “users”) the option to book a home visit from a chef, who will prepare, say, “the pasta party for five” you’ve just placed in your basket. The Aki-Home online store has launched a premium home-assembly service.Then there’s Enjoy Technology,

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • AUGUST 2015 • ILLUSTRATION BY HEADS OF STATE

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bright ideas INDUSTRY

®

possibly the most explicit expression of this subtle but significant shift.

Enjoy is the latest venture from former Apple Store boss Ron Johnson.The company is, in a sense, a progression of the thinking behind his Genius Bars, which allow customers to discuss technical issues with actual human beings rather than engage with online FAQs. Enjoy, for its part, invites customers to buy digital or electronic goods online; the goods are then delivered to “your home, office, a coffee shop—wherever you like.”

That’s the convenience part. The big departure here is that Enjoy employs full-time technicians who not only deliver items but also spend an hour or so showing you how to set them up and use them. There are also plans to host free workshops on, say, digital photography.

“We think you have to move from a ‘to the door’ to a ‘through the door’ service,” says Johnson. “Instead of investing in stores or big warehouses, we’re investing in people.”

In explicitly promoting a hybrid of old values and new technology, Enjoy places itself at the vanguard of what Wong calls “real one-click shopping,” which has long been the holy grail of online retailers. “There are a lot of people in Silicon Valley now trying to

find the best way to make money merging retail, e-tail, services and delivery,” Wong says. “This is not a fad.”

Indeed, he adds, the blurring of e-commerce and personal service will soon be so normal we may think nothing of buying a pair of pants online and expecting the person who delivers them to shorten the hem. Even your mom may not be prepared to go that far.

Berlin-based writer and editor BOYD FARROW, keen to cash in on the ondemand economy, is now marketing himself as the “Uber of Hacks.”

AUGUST CROSSWORD ANSWERS

this month’s amazing fact

Zodiac Killers?

When it comes to some diseases, doctors may consider your astrology chart

Find re a sto ! you near

Mayfair Games www.mayfairgames.com ®

©2015 Mayfair Games, Inc., Catan GmbH.

Horoscope skeptics have long scoffed at the notion that your birth month could possibly have any significant impact on your life. True, being born in January may not, for example, decide whether this week is a good time to invest in real estate or to fall in love. But a recent study published in the Journal of the American Medical Informatics Association suggests that it could actually predict something even more crucial: whether or not you’re at a higher risk to acquire certain diseases. Researchers at Columbia University designed an algorithm to analyze 1.7 million patients treated for more than 1,600 diseases in New York from 1985 to 2013. Surprisingly, they found 55 separate correlations between birth month and increased incidence of illness: March babies, for instance, show a greater tendency toward heart disease, November babies are prone to ADHD later in life, and July and October babies show statistically above average instances of asthma. In general, October babies come out particularly bad, with the highest risk of diseases, while those born in May sit prettiest. The researchers are quick to point out that birth month plays a much, much smaller role than other environmental factors, so May babies should think twice before feeling too untouchable! —NICHOLAS DERENZO

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AUGUST 2015 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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06/05/2015 11:19

The idyllic fishing village at Peggy’s Cove

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THREE PERFECT DAYS Hemispheres AUGUST 2015

W R I T E R NICHOLAS DERENZO

PHOTOGRA PHER CHRIS SORENSEN

NOVA SCOTIA CANADA’S SECOND-SMALLEST PROVINCE tends to conjure images of picturesque lobstering villages, rocky beaches, lonely lighthouses and cold weather. It’s true, the winters here can be harsh, but Nova Scotians generate their own kind of sunshine.

In fact, the province’s defining characteristic is a pervasive sweetness. You can see it everywhere: from the candy colors of its clapboard cottages to the cutesy nickname for non-locals (“come from aways”) to the syrupy sauce atop the province’s trademark late-night snack (a beef-and-pork gyro glazed with icing). It’s a place that, even on the foggiest days (and there are many), could never be described as gloomy.

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940,789 POPULATION OF NOVA SCOTIA

THREE PERFECT DAYS

DAY ONE

In which Nicholas goes museum-hopping and tackles the mythic donair

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ORNING IN HALIFAX means passengers streaming off cruise ships at the bustling seaport, eager to stretch their legs. I’m feeling no such cabin fever, having just awoken in my large, luxurious bed in the nearby Prince George Hotel. Cup of coffee in hand, I stand at my window, looking out over the city’s historic downtown.

Breakfast is nearby at Norbert’s Good Food, a sunny eatery inside the Halifax Seaport Farmers’ Market. Established in 1750, this is North America’s oldest farmers market, and its current cavernous home accommodates more than 250 vendors on weekends. Norbert’s is well named. Everything

“EVERY POSTWAR SMART ALECK CAME TO CANADA. I MET A POLISH MAN WHO, WHEN HE ARRIVED HERE, SAW A SIGN SAYING ‘DRINK CANADA DRY.’ HE LIKES TO SAY, ‘AND I’VE BEEN TRYING TO EVER SINCE!’” CARRIE-ANN SMITH

Chief of audience engagement at the Canadian Museum of Immigration

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on my plate—eggs, bacon, potato rosti—is sourced from the owner’s farm or one of his neighbors’. Outside, ships and sailboats drift by, continuing the maritime tradition that has been the backbone of this town for centuries.

Between 1928 and 1971, more than a million immigrants landed next door, at Pier 21, the Ellis Island of the Maritime Provinces (Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, Prince Edward Island).Today, the old redbrick terminal houses the Canadian Museum of Immigration, which was given a $30 million overhaul this summer. I’m here to meet Carrie-Ann Smith, the museum’s chief of audience engagement and the brains behind its transformation.

“Listen, Ellis Island was built as a palace; Pier 21 is a shed,” Smith says, standing in the expansive entry hall. “But it had this beat-up wooden sign that said ‘Welcome Home to Canada,’ which I think is just lovely.” She’s designed a museum that’s heavy on interactivity: Visitors are invited to pack virtual suitcases, try on period clothes or set tables for dinner. “They wouldn’t let me add a seasickness-inducing machine,” she says. “I wish the whole building rocked.”

Smith wants to show me her city, so we head outside. As we approach the curb, cars practically screech to a halt to let us cross. Overbearing courtesy, Smith says with a laugh, is one of the province’s defining traits. “If you even think about crossing the street here, they stop. Sometimes I pace on the sidewalk, so they don’t feel obligated.” Fighting politeness with politeness: the Canadian way.

We stroll past Pizza Corner, an intersection named for its concentration of pizzerias. At night, with its mix of tourists and Haligonians spilling out of bars, the place has the feeling of Times Square writ incredibly small. Many of these revelers are on the hunt for Nova Scotia’s most iconic after-hours snack: not pizza, but donair, a local riff on the gyro supposedly concocted in the 1970s by a Lebanese pizzeria owner (regular gyros were deemed too exotic for local tastes). The lamb was swapped out for beef and pork, and the garlicky yogurt sauce became a sweet white glaze made from evaporated milk and sugar, with a splash of white vinegar and garlic powder.

“That sauce is just candy,” Smith says. “Maybe I’ve never been drunk enough to enjoy it.” Despite her warning, I assure her I’ll try one tonight.

Next, I head to the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, which features exhibits on two catastrophes: the 1912 sinking of the Titanic (survivors went to New York; the dead came to Halifax) and the 1917 Halifax Explosion.Though less famous abroad, the latter is a city-defining tragedy; two ships, one filled with ammunition, collided and caused the largest manmade blast of the pre-nuclear age, flattening much of the city and killing almost 2,000.These century-old nautical incidents still loom large and in unexpected ways. The Five Fishermen restaurant, for example, was once a funeral home where Titanic victims were kept before burial. Across the From top: lobster at the street, the city’s oldest building, the South Shore Fish Shack in 1750 St. Paul’s Church, has bits of Lunenburg; the Tangled Garden in Grand-Pré wood and iron from the explosion embedded in it.

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1605 YEAR SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN ESTABLISHED THE FIRST EUROPEAN SETTLEMENT IN NOVA SCOTIA

BOOM! As I leave the museum, a huge blast rings out—bad timing, to say the least. A passing woman notices my expression and smiles in a don’t-worry way. “We’re not under attack,” she says. “That’s just the noon gun.” Every day, it turns out, the city’s hilltop fort fires off a cannon at midday (the ritual has its own Twitter account, @HalifaxNoonGun, with the same Tweet repeated every day at the same time: “#boom”).

Feeling a bit #hangry, I head for lunch at 2 Doors Down, chef Craig Flinn’s ode to elevated classics. Hearty menu items like smoked potato chowder, crispy haddock burgers and chicken dinner poutine—pulled chicken, cheese curds, peas, stuffing and gravy atop a pile of fries—are the kind of ribsticking dishes you’d need to get through a Canadian winter.

Winter is also a theme at the nearby Art Gallery of Nova Scotia, where I find Inuit carvings and folk paintings depicting the kind of weather you wouldn’t send a dog into. A highlight of the collection is the relocated one-room cottage of the province’s most famous folk artist, Maud Lewis, who died in 1970 at the age of 67. Life was hard for Lewis, who stood under five feet tall due to juvenile arthritis, but you’d never know it from her home, in which every surface is painted with an ecstatic array of flowers and butterflies and birds.

Halifax is a hilly city, which works in my favor after my gravyful lunch. I make my way up a steepish slope, pausing in the city’s old Grand Parade, bracketed by monumental City Hall, a late-19th-century sandstone pile dominated by a seven-story tower (its clock fixed at 9:04 to mark the Explosion), and the white Georgian facade of St. Paul’s. From here, it’s a few minutes up to the city’s most recognizable landmark: the Halifax Citadel, aka Fort George, which was established here by the British in 1749 to keep the French at bay.

The strategic value of the star-shaped fortification’s hilltop position—225 feet above sea level—has given way to its sightseeing potential. From the ramparts, I look out over the city’s bristling steeples, the forested harbor islands and the smattering of small-fry skyscrapers (the tallest tower here, Fenwick Place, is 322 feet). Closer by are the kilted reenactors of the 78th Highlanders troop, who march in formation in the dusty courtyard below. Oh, right: Nova Scotia. New Scotland.

In the fort gift shop, I’m grilled about my travel plans by the woman behind the counter. Tomorrow, I tell her, I’m heading to LaHave, a coastal town about 70 miles southwest of here, to meet an indie singer named Jennah Barry. “Oh,” she says, “I went to high school with her!” Small world. Smaller province.

Heading back into town, I stroll past broad Halifax Common and the Crayola-colored clapboard houses of the North End, a trendy neighborhood that was once the city’s industrial heart. I’m having dinner at Field Guide, a hip new eatery (chalkboard menus, yellow metal bistro chairs) run by chef Dan Vorstermans and his wife, Ceilidh Sutherland.

Despite the modern flair, the food The Halifax Citadel tastes deeply of the land. A salad Royal Artillery and the cannon that fires of turnips, sorrel puree, cured egg off the daily noon gun yolk, pickled beets and watermelon radish comes topped with seasonal 58

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1836 YEAR HOCKEY WAS INVENTED, IN THE TOWN OF WINDSOR

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fiddlehead ferns. “We all went up to Ceilidh’s parents’ house in Tatamagouche to pick them,” the waiter says.

Pan-fried gaspereau, a local river herring, is served with crunchy fried roe sacks and black garlic mayo.There’s even a high-minded nod to the donair I’ve heard so much about, in the form of a steamed bun in which Vorstermans restores the original lamb and adds a bit of lamb liver for “an earthy, gamey, mineraly flavor,” plus a sweet but nuanced sauce of house-made condensed milk, fresh garlic and apple cider vinegar.

After dinner, I head across town to Argyle Street, a strip of Anglo-Irish-Scottish pubs, many with live music (heavy on the fiddle) streaming out the windows. I’m here to have a drink with Andrew Al-Khouri, a former “Master Chef Canada” finalist who hails from Cape ANDREW AL-KHOURI Breton, Nova Scotia’s version of the Scottish Cook and “Master Chef Canada” contestant (and Highlands. Fittingly, I meet Al-Khouri at the yes, he’s eating a donair) Loose Cannon, a wood-paneled pub with more than 70 Scotch varieties. After a shot of “WHAT’S AWESOME ABOUT NOVA SCOTIA IS THAT IT’S Glenora Glen Breton—North America’s first THE KIND OF PLACE WHERE YOU’LL FIND YOURSELF single-malt whiskey, also from Cape Breton—I DRINKING IN A KITCHEN WITH TEN FIDDLE PLAYERS.” find myself once again discussing donair.

“They asked us to submit an audition dish, and I did donair gnocchi as a joke,” the chef says of his reality TV stint. “Most people made Wagyu beef—mine cost $1.50 to make.” Al-Khouri has spent Like pretty much everyone who travels the Lighthouse years drawing inspiration from the late-night snack. In college, Route, I pull into Peggy’s Cove to get a look at the trail’s he invented the donair omelette after passing out drunk on top namesake—a perfect white lighthouse on a wave-beaten of one and trying to figure out what to do with its mangled promontory, shrouded in photogenic fog. Just behind me is remains. Since then, he’s come up with duck donair poutine an equally lovely lobster-fishing village. It’s the kind of view and a frisée and beet salad served in an edible donair-meat cup. that makes you entertain relocation fantasies, although the Al-Khouri suggests we go get a couple of donairs for the porcupine waddling across the street as I depart might be road. A minute later, we’re at Mezza Lebanese Kitchen. “He’s overdoing the cuteness a bit. from New York,” Al-Khouri tells the guy behind the counter, After a quick stop for coffee and snacks at the cozy book“so make him the best donair ever!” It’s messy, meaty and store/bakery Biscuit Eater, farther down the coast in Mahone weirdly sweet. In other words, perfect.

Bay, I’m on to Lunenburg. This colorful cod-fishing town is home to the continent’s best-preserved planned British colonial settlement, dating to the 1700s—a distinction that has earned it the status of UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’d DAY TWO be easy to do a drive-by gawk, but I’d like to get a closer look, In which Nicholas traces the Lighthouse so I’ve set up a tour with seventh-generation Lunenburger Route and makes beachside s’mores Shelah Allen, All who co-owns Lunenburg Walking Tours.

We meet me at the town’s turreted High Victorian showpiece, showpiece the Lunenburg Academy, where Allen went HALIFAX HAS LONG SERVED as an entry wen to elementary school. “This is gallows hill, point to Nova Scotia, but my plan an for today hill surrounded on three sides by a graveyard—lots of fodder for children’s is to see what lies beyond. I set out early graveyard— imaginations,” and wind down the coast too the South imagination she says. “People always expect it to be scary or haunted, but I Shore, which looks and feels els like rural have to say, ‘‘Sorry! Happy building!’”

Maine. Fifteen minutes outside the As we str stroll the surrounding streets, capital, I’m surrounded by pine-studded ine-studded islets, pristine lakes, rocky beaches and Allen points point out a cod atop a church weathervane. cottages with brightly colored ed Adironweathervan “People always ask if the fish is a Christian symbol,” she says. “And dack chairs pointing out toward rd the sea.

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A whol whole roasted fish at Field Guide

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13.2 MILLION POUNDS OF LOBSTER CAUGHT OFF NOVA SCOTIA LAST YEAR, SETTING A RECORD

THREE PERFECT DAYS

After a short ferry ride across the LaHave River, I stop I say, ‘Sort of—it’s a symbol of what we’re most thankful for.’” at the LaHave Bakery. The place feels like an old general She also introduces me to a renowned architectural flourish store, with wooden shelves loaded with fresh bread made from that originated here, the Lunenburg Bump, a protruding locally milled grains. It’s the perfect spot to meet Jennah Barry, window in which the lady of the house would sit and knit, a rootsy redheaded spitfire singer-songwriter who recorded to see and be seen. “I think of it as early Facebook,” she says. her indie folk-pop album, Young Men, just across the river, and Allen is quick to note that Lunenburg isn’t too precious who lives nearby “on top of this hill, in a little cabin I built.” about its heritage. “We don’t wear costumes,” she says. And Barry clearly has a kinship with the area, especially this while the pink and blue and red buildings may look fanciful, bakery. “This is the hub,” she says. “If you don’t know where they house hardware stores and bars. This is a working town. anyone is, you just come here. None of my friends have cell We head down toward the waterfront to grab lunch at the phones, which is great. When people say they’ll be someSouth Shore Fish Shack, where Allen insists I order the lobwhere, they’ll really be here. We’re the least apathetic people ster. “The water’s super-cold, the shells are harder, the meat’s in the world.” sweeter—we have the best lobsters in the world here,” she How does being from Nova Scotia play into the way says. “Though people from Prince Edward Island would say people perceive her? “People see me as this sweet rural girl,” we’re full of crap.” I hate to take sides in a Maritime dispute, she says. “I don’t feel like an apron-wearing country girl … but the lobster is pretty amazing. though I guess I am? I will say I am a very aggressive driver.”

On my way out of town, I stop into Ironworks Distillery, And if this whole singing thing doesn’t work out? “I always which occupies an 1890s blacksmith shop. Along with dark have a job waiting for me in PEI,” she says with a laugh, notrum (a nod to the province’s rum-running days), the distillery ing her resemblance to the neighboring province’s makes liqueurs with flavorings like cranberry and a most famous export, Anne of Green Gables. hearty local fruit called arctic kiwi. I grab a bottle Next, Barry takes me upstairs to meet her friend of apple vodka, which still tastes faintly of the The colorful houses of Lunenburg Jesse Watson, owner of Homegrown Skateboards. fruit grown in the province, and receive a perfectly Here, in a raw attic space that houses a bowl Nova Scotian outburst when my credit card doesn’t for testing boards, Watson crafts decks out of swipe. “Oh turtleneck!” says the cashier, and then, Canadian hardrock maple and sells T-shirts with under her breath, “That was me swearing.”

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Akershus Fortress, a 700-year-old architectural hodgepodge

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20 PERCENTAGE OF CANADIANS WHOSE FAMILIES PASSED THROUGH PIER 21

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slogans like “Too much moxie breeds mayhem “I USED TO LIVE IN TORONTO. I GOT SUPER in the streets” (from a 1965 Life headline about OVERWHELMED, BECAUSE THERE WAS SO MUCH skateboarders). Talk turns to this year’s once-inNOISE STRESS. WHEN I GOT BACK TO NOVA SCOTIA, a-lifetime winter.

THE MUSIC JUST CAME POURING OUT OF ME—TONS “It was arctic, full-on,” Watson says. “No one OF MUSICIANS COME OUT OF HERE.” could go out, but there was this weird romance of isolation.”

“You get kind of squirrelly,” adds Barry. “You JENNAH BARRY Singer-songwriter get up to weirder stuff, because you have to.” As for what counts as weird in these parts: “We’re going to an Under the Sea costume party tonight, and everyone’s congregating here to finish up their costumes,” says Watson, who will be going as a shark head.

“And I’m gonna cut a hole in this blue tarp,” says Barry, “and be water.”

I’m sure I could have whipped up a mean kelp get-up, but I have to head farther south before nightfall. I’ll be staying at the White Point Beach Resort, a 1928 family retreat overlooking the Atlantic that calls to mind the Catskills lodge in Dirty Dancing. A sign by the entrance reads, “Children and bunnies are everywhere,” and there’s truth in advertising.

The lawn around my swank-summer-camp beachfront cabin is hopping with domesticated rabbits that escaped and multiplied decades ago. The resort hands out paper baggies of rabbit food by the front desk, but I can’t help but feel they’d do better handing out packets of rabbit Clockwise from top left: birth control. a 78th Highlander at Af ter a dinner of the Halifax Citadel; deliciously rich planked the Luckett Vineyards salmon chowder and phone booth; the cat at Japanese berry that’s fast becoming this region’s superfood homegrown mussels at the resort’s Ironworks Distillery; Peggy’s Point du jour. It shows up everywhere here.

Elliot’s Dining Room, I head to Lighthouse I take a stroll on the beach until my sugar high wears off the beachside bonfire for s’mores, and then head to bed, where I’m warmed by a crackling served with a rotating slate of Nova fire. And yes, it took this city boy quite a few tries to get Scotia–born products, including it going. haskap jam, made from a dark blue

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THE BAY OF FUNDY IS SUCH A ‘BORE’

he Bay of Fundy’s recordbreaking tides come with an added recreational bonus: When all that water comes rushing back in, it creates an effect known as a “tidal bore”— essentially a water traffic jam at the mouth of a river. The outflowing river crashes against the incoming water, forcing waves to pile up and creating 10- to 12-foot rapids in an area that was, just minutes before, completely calm.

The Shubenacadie River, 90 minutes northeast of Wolfville, is one of the few places on the planet where you can ride these waves, with an adventure outfitter called Shubenacadie River Runners. You zip along on a motorized Zodiac raft, getting splashed comedically with the chocolate-milky water.

(It’ll stain your clothes a rusty brown, so be sure not to wear that new I<Donairs T-shirt.)

Before the tide rushes back in, thousands of acres of sandbars sit dry, leaving behind more than a few unlucky fish.

The result? Countless bald eagles stopping by for an easy meal.

“I had to cross the border to see my own national bird!”

I shout over rushing waves to my raft guide.

“That’s what every American says,” he replies, with a wide grin.

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A surfer and a resident bunny at White Point Beach Resort

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1 HALIFAX’S RANK AMONG CANADIAN CITIES WITH THE MOST BARS PER CAPITA

DAY THREE

In which Nicholas pretends to know about wine on the shores of the Bay of Fundy

I START MY DAY AT ELLIOT’S, watching surfers brave the chilly Atlantic, as I dig into pancakes and chorizo hash slathered in maple syrup (remember, it’s all about nostalgic Canadiana here). Then I’m on the road, heading across the province to the up-and-coming Annapolis Valley wine region, on the Bay of Fundy. Separating Nova Scotia and New Brunswick, the bay boasts the world’s highest tides. There can be a 50-foot difference between high and low tide here, as more than 100 billion tons of water drain out twice daily, stranding boats (and unlucky fish) on the dry seabed.

Within two hours, pine forests open up to rolling meadows, weathered barns and dairy cows, then the tell-tale geometry of wine country—rows, rows, rows. I end up in the college town of Wolfville, where I’ll be staying at the Blomidon Inn, which occupies a stately 19th-century sea captain’s mansion.

First, a reenergizing cup in nearby Grand-Pré, at Just Us! Coffee, Canada’s first fair-trade coffee roaster. It’s the kind of café where your barista may discuss the subtle distinctions between Peruvian and Ethiopian beans, but it’s also just a casual hangout (as evidenced by the farmer parking his John Deere out front). Next door, I duck into the Tangled Garden, which feels like the cottage of a friendly sorceress. Dried flowers, grown outside, hang from the rafters; jewel-tone bottles and jars line every shelf, filled with things like cherry anise hyssop jam and rose petal and lavender vinegar.

For lunch, I’m meeting Gillian Mainguy, director of the Atlantic Wine Institute. A native Ontarian—which makes her a CFA, or “come from away”—she has a back-slapping, shoulder-punching manner. We’re not in Bordeaux anymore, Toto. This newly hip wine region is racking up the accolades (a local sparkling wine recently beat Champagne at a global competition), but it hasn’t let success go to its head.

“We’re getting a lot of hype among wine geeks,” Mainguy says. “But we want to be approachable. We never want to be snobby.” We meet at Luckett Vineyards, where her husband is winemaker. “Which,” she promises, “isn’t the only reaso reason I took you here!” Owner Pete Luckett is a British entrepreneur behind the local Whole Foods– entre style market Pete’s Frootique, and his heritage crops cro up in clever ways, including the red phone box in the middle of the vines (offering free calls within North America) and wine names like wi Black Cab, a red made from sun-dried grapes.

Bl Over steak and mushroom pie on the patio, we w talk about the terroir here. The cold climate makes it ideal for crisp whites, including the m rregion’s first appellation variety, Tidal Bay, a blend of Nova Scotia–grown grapes. Ten area b wineries offer takes on the signature blend. I’m a wine novice, but I taste grapefruit and lychee.

Folk art at White Point Beach Resort

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“There’s definitely a pucker there,”she says,“It pairs beautifully with Nova Scotia lobster.” Like a bracing spritz of lemon.

Next, it’s a 10-minute drive to Grand-Pré National Historic Site, a peaceful refuge of manicured gardens and songbird-filled woods dedicated to the 1755 expulsion of the French-speaking Acadians by the British. They’d go on to resettle as far south as Louisiana, where they became known as the Cajuns. While they were once dominant throughout Nova Scotia, the Acadian presence has been all but wiped out, save for a few Francophone towns founded when the Acadians were allowed to return home decades later.

Inside the site’s 1922 memorial church, I meet ranger François Gaudet, a descendant of the expelled who sees his own return to the area as an act of historic defiance. “I’m an artifact of the deportation,” he says. “I should not be here. I should not speak French. I consider myself a miracle.” He points out a statue of Evangeline, the heroine of an 1847 Henry Wadsworth Longfellow poem about the expulsion.

“If it weren’t for Longfellow, we might not even know about the Acadians,” he says. “The poem used to be required reading in schools, but the newer generation doesn’t know about that story.” With that, the park’s resident cat strolls by, brushing against my leg. Her name? “Evangeline, of course.”

The surrounding farmlands were reclaimed from the bay by an ingenious system of Acadian dikes that tamed the Fundy’s fearsome tides back in the 1680s—a plan so inventive the area was named Nova Scotia’s third UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2012, one of only 16 in all of Canada. I drive through the valleys, stopping at Fox Hill Cheese House, a dairy farm where swallows tumble in the breeze, and at Gaspereau Valley Fibres, a yarn store watched over by a small herd of alpacas.

I finish my evening with a dinner of rabbit torchon and salad with brown butter vinaigrette at Le Caveau restaurant at the Domaine de Grand-Pré winery. Kenan Thompson from “Saturday Night Live” is also here at the winery, sipping Tidal Bay. This, I think, is the new Nova Scotia, a place where New York celebrities rub shoulders with dairy farmers, where winemakers out-French the French.

After dinner, I drive up to the Blomidon Lookoff. In the half light, the land below looks like a faded patchwork quilt. It’s not the most dramatic scenery I’ve encountered here, but it’s among the most significant, reclaimed from the sea by age-old ingenuity. Up here, I appreciate the connection Nova Scotians have with the land. You hear them tell of it when they recount stories both historical and personal. As Ironworks Distillery co-owner Pierre Guevremont told me earlier, while we sipped his flavored spirits, “The rhubarb liqueur is our most emotional product, because everyone has a link with their grandmother’s backyard. We all have a rhubarb story.”

Hemispheres senior editor Nicholas DeRenzo is looking into opening a donair food truck in Brooklyn.

BOARDING PASS With vacation packages to more than 400 destinations around the world, United Vacations is your one-stop-shop for all your travel needs. Visit vacations.united.com to plan your trip.

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WANTED: LIONFISH DEAD OR ALIVE THE VENOMOUS LIONFISH IS WREAKING ECOLOGICAL HAVOC OFF THE SHORES OF BELIZE. A NONPROFIT CONSERVATION GROUP IS ENDEAVORING TO KILL OFF THE INVASIVE SPECIES BY ARMING TOURISTS WITH SPEARS.

BY JEANNIE RALSTON PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROBB KENDRICK

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HE DIVERS, EIGHT IN TOTAL, carry spears and swim urgently toward the reef 45 feet below the surface of the sea. They’ve seen the enemy and mean to destroy them.

Clustered around a large barrel coral are nine brightly colored fish; feathery fins arc over their tiger-striped bodies like peacock tails in full strutting display. But their beauty is deceiving. Not only are these lionfish wickedly venomous, their species has been called one of the biggest ecological disasters ever to hit the Western Atlantic. Here, off the coast of Belize, this invasive fish has been wreaking havoc on the southern edge of the Mesoamerican Reef (which stretches more than 600 miles north to the Yucatán Peninsula), disrupting a very delicate ecosystem.

One diver, in a black-and-fluorescent-green wetsuit, takes a spear and moves in closer to do what he’s been trained for. Holding the spear steady, he aims its three sharp prongs at one of the fish, which is bobbing slightly in the underwater surges. After a burst of bubbles from his regulator, the diver releases the spear. As the prongs pierce the flesh, the fish twitches, then goes still, before it is slipped into a clear plastic bag to be dissected later.

The marksman is not a pro spear fisherman, not a marine biologist, not a scientist of any kind. He is actually a grocery store manager from Dover, England, named Renato Amitrano, and he’s on vacation with Reef Conservation International (RCI), the nonprofit that has been enlisting the help of tourists to stem the tide of damage caused here by the lionfish. “I was a bit worried at first about getting too close and getting stung by those poisonous spines,” Amitrano says later.

“But once it was done, I was excited. I was helping to save the reef.”

Polly Alford, the founder and director of RCI, is counting on that sense of accomplishment and do-goodery expressed by Amitrano, whom she likes to refer to as one of her “citizen scientists.” The idea is simple, says Alford, who quit her job as a technology executive in the U.K. to launch RCI on an acre-anda-half islet 36 miles from Punta Gorda, Belize’s southernmost city, in 2004. “I thought, ‘It would be great if there was a place people could come for any length of time for a fabulous holiday and to help protect the reef at the same time.’”

At first, visitors collected data about reef health and conducted surveys of fish species, such as lobster, conch and parrotfish, between delicious meals and leisurely naps on one of the hammocks at RCI’s tropical paradise of a base. However, when the first lionfish was

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Marine biologist Jason Guy points to a venomous spine. “A lionfish sting won’t kill you,” he says, “but if you get stung, you’ll wish you were dead.”

spotted in the southern Belizean waters in 2009, Alford broadened RCI’s focus. “They’re the cockroaches of the ocean,” she says, noting that one lionfish, which can weigh more than two pounds, can release up to 50,000 eggs every four days. In some areas of the Caribbean, as many as 1,200 lionfish have been counted per acre. Isabelle Côté, who specializes in lionfish as a professor of marine biology at Simon Fraser University in Canada, found that over two years, native fish species in one part of the Bahamas declined by an average of 65 percent after the arrival of the invaders.

As they are native to the Indo-Pacific region, lionfish have no predators in this part of the world—except those that swim around in black neoprene wielding spears.

“Go for the head,” Jason Guy says, pointing to one end of a coconut, a stand-in for a lionfish during a pre-dive training session for those vacationing with RCI. Guy, a Belizean marine biologist who worked as an administrator for the Belize Fisheries Department before joining Alford’s team, demonstrates how to put the elastic loop of the yellow lionfish spear around your hand and then stretches the loop toward the base of the spear, near the prongs. “You want to get about six inches away and then let go of the spear.” He opens his fingers and the spear, propelled by the retraction of the elastic loop, stabs the coconut.

Now it’s time for the novices to try. A group of 10 stands in a circle around the coconut, in the middle of RCI’s islet base. Surrounding the guests are hammocks strung between palm trees, seven small stone cabanas, and a main house with five guest rooms, a kitchen, dining hall and lounge. And lots of water. Besides one even smaller islet, there is nothing on the horizon but sparkling turquoise sea.

After a realtor from New York and a math teacher from Ohio gore the coconut, Joseph Barbknecht, a Dallas-area attorney, has a go at it. His first attempt goes over the target; the second falls short. “Getting eye and hand to match up,” he says as he lines up another attempt. “There’s a bit of parallax going on.” Barbknecht’s next shot pierces the target, bringing a grin to his face. “Well, I sure frightened that coconut,” he says.

Before heading out on the boat for the short ride to the dive site, Guy tells the group the No. 1 rule of lionfish hunting: Once they’ve speared one, they are to keep the spear down, planted against the ocean floor, until he or Alford can take the spear and put the fish into the collection bag. This is for safety. Lionfish have 18 venomous spines and require special handling. “A lionfish sting won’t kill you, but if you get stung, you’ll wish you were dead,” says Guy, who has been on the wrong end of a spine seven times. With no anti-venom, the pain and swelling must simply be endured—sometimes for several days, depending on how deep the spine goes in.

After one dive, as he empties a thick plastic bag of 34 lionfish onto a wood table near the dock, Guy carefully slides back the orange-and-black scales to show his charges a menacing, needle-like spine.

“Scary,” says Jeb Kendrick, a teenager from Austin, as he flinches and backs away from the table. Danielle Fraser, an educational-travel agent, hides behind Amitrano, her boyfriend, as if the fish were going to jump off the table.

“They can still sting even when they’re dead, so I have to be very careful,” Guy says. Handing a clipboard to Kendrick, he asks the young Texan to take notes that he will later hand over to the Belize Fisheries Department. Guy measures each fish, determines its sex and whether CONTINUED ON PAGE 74 »

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“IF LEFT UNCHECKED, LIONFISH WILL CAUSE THE DESTRUCTION OF THE REEFS, NATIVE FISH STOCKS AND THE LIVELIHOOD OF EVERYONE WHO DEPENDS ON FISHING.”

CONTINUED ON PAGE 81 »

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AUGUST 2015

THE HEMI Q&A

JESSE EISENBERG ACTOR, HUMORIST, PLAYWRIGHT, FOSTER PARENT TO HOMELESS CATS—IS THERE ANYTHING THIS GUY CAN’T DO?

BY JOE KEOHANE ILLUSTRATION BY MARTIN O’NEILL

J

ESSE EISENBERG HAS A GOOD THING GOING. Best known for his extraordinary turn as Facebook founder Mark Zuckerberg in 2010’s The Social Network, he’s become a first-call actor for big Hollywood roles (he plays Lex Luthor in next year’s Batman v Superman: Dawn of Justice) but has also retained his indie credentials with films like Adventureland, Woody Allen’s To Rome with Love and The Double, in which he played both a flinching pushover and his domineering alpha-male doppelganger.

He’s also an accomplished playwright, whose latest work, “The Spoils” (starring himself), opened in New York this spring to strong reviews. In his downtime, he contributes humor pieces to The New Yorker, and he’s about to publish a book of short stories, Bream Gives Me Hiccups.

Eisenberg has two very different films out this month: American Ultra, in which he plays a gentle slacker who finds out that he is in fact a lethal government agent, and The End of the Tour, which dramatizes a road trip interview between a reporter (Eisenberg) and canonized American novelist David Foster Wallace (Jason Segel), who killed himself in 2008.

Eisenberg spoke to Hemispheres from a dressing room in New York City, where he was readying himself for a performance of “The Spoils.” On the agenda: fame, fear of failure and what he learned from his clown mother.

HEMISPHERES: So you have this movie coming out, American Ultra, which is kind of a stoner Bourne Identity. What drew you to it?

JESSE EISENBERG: It was one of the most original characters I’ve read. The way he speaks, his thoughts, the strange context. It was so real—even in such an absurd circumstance.

HEMISPHERES: This one fits with a lot of your other roles.

Your characters are often outwardly nebbishy, but then there’s this hardness under the surface. Is that your thing?

EISENBERG: I don’t know. When I write characters for the theater, I’m trying to write what I know, or what I feel. I guess to an outsider my characters may seem like horrible people, but to me, I understand what’s driving them. In movies, I’m just reacting to what people send me.

HEMISPHERES: How did you get into playwriting?

EISENBERG: Actors find themselves out of work for long periods of time—even very successful actors. It’s the nature of being a freelance professional. I fill that time with writing. I imagine most other actors—at least, the healthy ones—find some other interest, hobby or way to stay busy.

HEMISPHERES: Has writing changed you as an actor?

EISENBERG: It has, yeah. I’m a little more comfortable not meddling as much. I feel much more comfortable trusting whatever the script is, because I feel like it’s part of some

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THE HEMI Q&A J ESSE EISEN BERG

bigger vision, and the more comfortable I get trusting the project, the better I am as an actor. It turns out better than if I were to try to micromanage it with the little power I had.

TO THE VICTOR Eisenberg with MIchael Zegen and Erin Darke in his play, “The Spoils”

HEMISPHERES: You’ve got another movie out, about David Foster Wallace. Are you a big DFW guy?

EISENBERG: I read him in college, and obviously I liked him. I don’t think anyone has a bad opinion of him. He was great. But what’s great about the movie is that you don’t have to know about him to appreciate it. It’s just a really interesting story about these two guys.

My character is a less successful novelist who’s been assigned to go be a journalist with an author. He’s experiencing all these conflicting feelings of being a fan, being a competitor, feeling jealous—all these things that anybody in the arts feels when they’re with somebody who’s doing that thing they feel they should be doing.

HEMISPHERES: Is there a DFW insight you took away from the film?

EISENBERG: This is funny, because we’re doing an interview now, but he talks about the dangers of doing interviews, that when you do them you’re losing the perception of you.

And publicity can actually damage the thing that makes you creative.

HEMISPHERES: Did you use anything you’ve picked up from all the interviews you’ve done yourself?

picture of someone that I can’t imagine anybody would be upset by. I can’t imagine anybody would feel it wasn’t done with intelligence, respect, care and sensitivity. That said, if a person ever made a movie about my life, I’d probably be uncomfortable that it existed.

HEMISPHERES: You’ve got a book of short stories coming out in the fall. Tell me about a story.

EISENBERG: So, the first set of stories is about a 9-yearold boy whose parents are divorced, and the only way his mother can continue her lavish lifestyle is to take the boy out with her to the fancy restaurants. The father has agreed to pay for any joint meals, so the only way she can charge them to him is by bringing this boy with her. So he is slowly learning his place in the world and realizing the mother doesn’t necessarily want him there, that she’s struggling to mature as well. They’re all told in the style of restaurant reviews, so you’re learning about their relationship through this little boy’s reviews.

“IF A PERSON EVER MADE A MOVIE ABOUT MY LIFE, I’D PROBABLY BE UNCOMFORTABLE THAT IT EXISTED.”

EISENBERG: I did, yeah. I’ve been in interview situations where you can immediately tell that there’s some kind of antagonistic slant, and I could never understand it. But then, playing this role, I could see it from my character’s point of view. I had an agenda. I was trying to find out about rumors of drug use.

I was trying to find out about women. And I can see that, from Wallace’s point of view, my character was not only prying but being antagonistic, in an attempt to rile an get some better answers. him up and

HEMISPH HEMISPHERES: It’s been reported that Wallace’s family is upset that the film was made. Do you feel so some sympathy for them?

E EISENBERG: I have no idea what they said, but all I can say is the movie presents a

HEMISPHERES: Aren’t these supposed to be funny? That sounds crushingly sad.

EISENBERG: It is. It’s very sad.

HEMISPHERES: You said a few years ago that every time you hear about an award or nomination you’re up for, you immediately think of all the times you lost. It made me think of the documentary Conan O’Brien Can’t Stop. There’s that great bit where he finishes a show, and he’s totally wrung out. He’s exhausted; he’s lying on the CONTINUED ON PAGE 75 »

Fun fact: Eisenberg fosters stray cats

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» CONTINUED FROM PAGE 68

it’s pregnant, and then slices open the stomach to see what the fish has eaten. Data such as this is crucial to determining which native species are vulnerable to lionfish and where large populations of lionfish are reproducing.

“That’s a lot of goo in there,” Kendrick notes, his face scrunched up in disgust as he looks at the inside of the first stomach being carved up by Guy. “Do I just write down ‘goo?’”

Guy points to two globs the size of paper clips; amazingly, distinguishing features are discernible. “This is a tiny lobster, and here’s a parrotfish,” he says.

Lobster is one of Belize’s most important commercial catches; lionfish also eat grouper and snapper, other key species.

“Lionfish eat anything they can get in their mouths,” Guy says. “They’re pigs.”

Parrotfish, however, is the chief concern.“They graze on algae on the reef, and that gives corals a chance to outcompete the algae, which grows more quickly,” says Linda Searle, co-founder of Ecomar, an environmental research group that works in Belize. Without parrotfish, she explains, the reefs could lose out to the algae. Parrotfish are so crucial to reef health that in 2009 Belize completely banned killing or capturing them.

“A couple of weeks ago, we found 19 juvenile parrotfish in one lionfish,” says Alford. “That makes me sad, but I was also happy that this particular lionfish could do no more damage.

“At some dive sites, it seems our efforts are really working, and the numbers are down,” continues Alford, who claims that RCI harvests roughly 200 lionfish a week. “At other places, it feels like a losing battle, but we must continue to fight. The bottom line is, if left unchecked, lionfish will ultimately cause the destruction of the reefs, native fish stocks and the livelihood of everyone who depends on fishing.”

If there’s a fortunate aspect to the lionfish invasion, it’s that we may be able to eat our way out of the problem. Take the scene at Asha’s Culture Kitchen, in Punta Gorda. The menu here is a huge blackboard with the dishes listed in colorful chalk, with a check mark next to each item that is available on a particular night. On a Sunday evening, Asha (aka Ashton BOARDING PASS Want to take a stab at spearfishing? United offers daily year-round flights to Belize from Houston and seasonal weekend service from Chicago and New York, with one-stop connections from more than 100 other destinations. Book your flight at united.com.

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Allan Martin) leaves his post behind the counter and, with his finger, erases the check mark next to the word “lionfish,” written in light blue cursive. “Lionfish are one of our bestsellers,” explains Asha, whose long braids are gathered in a thick bundle at the nape of his neck. “We’re all out.”

As it happens, lionfish taste good, with a light white meat comparable to grouper or snapper. RCI takes full advantage of this. Once a week, a sailboat charter out of the tourist center of Placencia brings a group of vacationers to RCI’s islet base for dinner. Alford uses this opportunity to spread her message, serving lionfish fingers and lionfish ceviche and urging her guests to request lionfish at restaurants when they get back to Placencia. “Now the demand from restaurants is more than we can provide,” says Alford.

Part of Alford’s conservation plan is to create a commercial market for lionfish. What is not cooked up as meals for her guests is sold to restaurants for a relatively high price of $9 to $10 a pound. “It’s good if they’re expensive,” she says, as the premium encourages fishermen to do the labor-intensive harvesting work. (Belizean law prohibits the taking of lionfish by means other than freediving or scuba diving.)

Asha, who as a divemaster often harvests his own lionfish, says he sells 40 to 50 pounds of the fish a week. “When I see lionfish out on the reef where lobster are supposed to be, I think, ‘I’m bigger than you. I’m going to take you,’” he says. “I’ve been stung twice, and that gives me more reason to kill more and eat more.” Asha is so serious about ridding his home waters of this threat that he has posted handmade signs all over Punta Gorda that read, “Wanted: Lionfish. Dead or Alive.”

RCI is also helping to create another market for lionfish. After every dive, Guy cuts the bestlooking fins—which aren’t poisonous—off the fish he fillets.The fins are either whitish or orange with black splatter patterns. Guy dries them in the sun, and then they are given to local women to make jewelry out of.

“We’ve conducted workshops for them; we want to empower these women,” says Alford, noting that RCI buys many of the resulting earrings to resell to guests, as well as online.

“Our motto is: ‘Kill them. Eat them. Wear them,’” declares Guy, who notes that his 6-year-old daughter has fully embraced this idea. “She only wants to eat lionfish, so right now we’re telling her that every fish we serve at home is lionfish just so she’ll eat it. She always asks me when she can come out diving and spear lionfish too. She wants them all gone.”

So does Renato Amitrano. “It makes me sad that they’re taking over,”he says at the end of his week with RCI, as he takes a last look at the islet from the boat that is carrying him back to the mainland. “But it feels great to have done something about it. I mean, this could have been just a regular beach holiday.The warm sea and the white sand really do tempt you into lying back with a cocktail, soaking up the sun. But working to protect the reef adds so much more depth to the trip.”

Austin-based journalist JEANNIE RALSTON snagged a lionfish on her very first attempt.

AUGUST 2015 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

07/07/2015 09:09

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J ESSE EISEN BERG THE HEMI Q&A

EISENBERG: I wouldn’t compare myself to him in any qualitative way. When I started reading his short stories, I thought, “Oh my goodness, these are so great.” And his movies, everything he does is great. He’s somebody who’s very clearly not affected by mainstream trends.

Everything he does feels original, and I like that.

» CONTINUED FROM PAGE 72

couch. And his assistant comes in and says, “You know, that was the best show yet,” and he immediately goes, “What was wrong with the other ones?” Is that how it is with you?

EISENBERG: Oh yeah. I don’t read reviews, good or bad. The bad ones make you feel bad, and the good ones excite you in a way that’s dangerous, because that’s not always gonna be there. It’s not all gonna be good. The more you can enjoy the thing for its own sake, the better you’ll be at it.

HEMISPHERES: I read that your mother was a clown.

HEMISPHERES: Were you able to withstand the urge to have a fanboy meltdown when you met him?

EISENBERG: When I’m acting in somebody’s project, I really just try to focus on doing well, because I have a task, and I take my job seriously. But I think if I had met him in any other context, I would have behaved like an idiot.

HEMISPHERES: Did he take any interest in you as a writer?

EISENBERG: Yeah, after my last play, about a year and a half ago, he emailed to say that he liked it, and that the box office will probably be in inverse proportion to its quality.

EISENBERG: She was a birthday party clown, yes. Now she works with young doctors teaching them how to interact with patients.

HEMISPHERES: That’s very Woody. I hear you’re a cat man.

HEMISPHERES: That’s wonderful. Given that she was a performer, did she pass any wisdom on that has been useful to you?

HEMISPHERES: I’m also a cat man.

EISENBERG: Yes.

EISENBERG: Oh, really? You have cats?

EISENBERG: Yeah. She was a clown for young kids, but to see that she took performing so seriously had a big impact on me. On weekends she’d have several birthday parties in a row, and she’d be up very early with her guitar, warming up her voice. Right now it’s 4 o’clock, and I’m pacing around the dressing room for an 8 o’clock show, so clearly that had an impact on me. And I think that’s the way to do it. To prepare. Not to torture yourself, but to prepare, and to take any job you do seriously—whether it’s a birthday party or a drama in New York. The last play I did, the other actor in it was Vanessa Redgrave. She’s 78 years old. She’s considered probably the greatest living actress, and she was at the theater early every day, poring over her script.

HEMISPHERES: I find it incredibly refreshing to see people who are great at what they do worry.

EISENBERG: Yes. And the more I work, the more I see that there is some correlation between worrying about doing well and doing well. You see the people who are really good at what they do still trying, and that’s inspiring.

HEMISPHERES: You’ve got your second Woody Allen film coming out next year. In a way, you’re on a similar track to his: You’re both writers and actors, you’re both drawn to the Borscht Belt comic sensibility, you both contribute to The New Yorker.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • AUGUST 2015

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HEMISPHERES: I’d like to have one, but my apartment’s small, and I’m worried if I introduce a cat into it, it’s going to become dominant in a way I’m not altogether comfortable with. But you foster cats. Do you have any at the moment?

EISENBERG: I have just one at the moment.

HEMISPHERES: What’s his name?

EISENBERG: The name is this weird Korean name that my sister gave it. It’s unpronounceable. I just call it The Cat. It’s very cute. It doesn’t like to be held, but it also doesn’t like to be alone. So it just trails you all day.

HEMISPHERES: You’re at a level now where you can fairly be called a movie star. Are you famous enough that it’s becoming a nuisance or a hindrance to living a normal life?

EISENBERG: Not even in any kind of anecdotal way. I live a normal life. People don’t notice me that much. I don’t have any sort of personal life that’s intriguing to anyone but my mother, and even she loses interest.

JOE KEOHANE, a writer and editor in New York City, swears that his editor put in that line about him fearing cat domination.

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A HEMISPHERES SUPPLEMENT: EDUCATION

TOP OF THE CLASS

WORDS BY RACHAEL MOON

A LOOK AT HOW THE PROFESSIONAL EDUCATION ATION INDUSTRY MUST INNOVATE VATE IN ORDER TO STAY AHEAD D OF ITS ON GROWING COMPETITION “The exponential growth in online al players, programs, including national ation can be has changed the way education delivered. Online teaching will make turers to it difficult for mediocre lecturers ts gravitate find an audience as students taining toward high-quality, entertaining faculty,” says Lisa Guyott, the director cation at of marketing and communication as’s Opus the University of St. Thomas’s College of Business. eed to “Business schools also need eer stay on top of the way career vations paths are changing as innovations m act mp in technology, especially, impact k. Ne ew the way we all do our work.

New skills are needed, old skills need wn to adapt, and as-yet-unknown ge as skills will continue to emerge business changes.” n It’s these developments in t technology, not to mention the on growth of in-house education n in certain sectors—such as in publishing, technology and asin s g recruitment—that are increasing chools. s. competition for traditional sschools. fferi ering n With many companies now off offering elop opmen me t, their own professional development, catio ca tion independent executive education ents courses are vying for students date and must innovate and update to stay relevant.

SAS_August.indd 77

10/07/2015 12:43

A HEMISPHERES SUPPLEMENT: EDUCATION

Being relevant, as well as decisive, productive and a leader, isn’t just an issue for schools—it’s also what every successful employee strives to be and what every company expects from its employees. “Companies want competitive employees who are thought leaders and who will produce results. The education industry understands this need and is innovating curriculums to produce better quality employees,” says Javier Aldape, program manager for the Department of Statistics at Texas A&M University.

Aldape, who specializes in data analytics and whose students are all working professionals, is at the forefront of an increasingly relevant industry—he says there were more data analytics programs starting last year than in the past five years overall. For Texas A&M, innovation comes in the form of the ‘capstone project’. The project, which is a real business problem taken from each student’s company, must be completed in order to graduate. Students are assigned a faculty member to act as their coach and will work on the project over the five semesters.

“The end result is to have the student build a predictive model that will ultimately help the company make better business decisions. We’re unique because our program’s curriculum and project is designed to impact the student’s career development within their organizations,” says Aldape.

Executive education programs are now as varied as the industries that

From top: Proud graduates during a commencement ceremony from the University of St. Thomas’s Opus College of Business; students are hard at work at Texas A&M University

guarantee a strong investment in a student’s career trajectory.

In order to cater to a working professional’s busy life, most courses now follow a hybrid

“ C O M PA N I E S WA N T C O M P E T I T I V E E M P L O Y E E S W H O ’ L L P R O D U C E R E S U LT S ” benefit from them and range from degree-based MBAs to non-degree certificates, delivered on campus or online, over the course of days or years. Regardless of how they’re delivered, they all focus on preparing professionals for the workplace and

SAS_August.indd 78

approach—combining online courses with evening classes and intense weekend sessions. As Guyott, from the Opus College of Business, explains, “We are in the process of redesigning our traditional part-time and full-time

MBA programs to include greater flexibility for students, more blended and online course options, shorter module options in some courses and increased recognition of previous work experience.”

The college, which offers degree programs at undergraduate and graduate level, is keen to encourage the discussion of big questions, which “helps each person develop the knowledge and the confidence to make their answers count in the global conversation,” says Guyott.

“We prepare students to be leaders in the C-suite or in their own startups, as an individual contributor or a manager of teams.”

10/07/2015 12:13

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A HEMISPHERES SUPPLEMENT: EDUCATION

• F A ST F A C T S •

$70bn

According to the Financial Times, the executive education global market is worth in excess of $70bn a year

#1 Above: Alabama A&M University is surrounded by beautiful grounds

Similarly, the University of West Alabama has recently expanded its online offerings to include a master of business administration degree, which comes available this fall.

As Wayne Bedford, dean for the College of Business, explains, “It’s a 33 credit hour program, designed

figure out how can we tap into these markets that might not be active in pursuing an MBA. But if you come to them and say ‘here’s what we can do for you and your employees’, it’s a nice value-ad proposition to an employer,” says Dean Joyce Strawser.

“ THERE’S A GROW TH IN CUS TOMIZED PROGRAMS BECAUSE EVERYONE’S T RYIN G T O TA P IN T O T HE SE M A R K E T S ” to accommodate those who would like to further their careers while balancing a busy schedule. Students can complete the program in just over one year. UWA’s flexible online MBA is expected to be especially appealing to those who have already begun their careers and are looking to specialize their skills and qualify for promotions or pay raises.”

The trend for schools to eschew open-enrolment courses in favour of ones tailored to a company and its employees is also accelerating.

The Stillman School of Business at Seton Hall University, which offers a hybrid MBA program that’s studied both online and in class, is one such school that’s developed its personalized attention: “There’s a growth in customized programs because everyone’s trying to

SAS_August.indd 80

Like many schools, Alabama A&M University, which offers undergraduate and graduate programs in everything from food sciences to business administration, is adapting to challenges to keep its curriculum current. To do this, the university has recently approved various new establishments—including the Center for Academic Excellence in Geospatial Sciences, the Center for Global Social Services Research, and the Pinnacle Professional Development Schools Project. “These fall in line with new programs offered at the undergraduate and graduate levels to keep the university in tune with the workforce needs of business, industry and government sectors,” says Jerome Saintjones, the university’s director of marketing and public relations.

Seton Hall’s Gerald P. Buccino ‘63 Center for Leadership Development was ranked first in the country for its educational leadership program

Texas A&M’s analytics program is 75% statistics, 25% business

University of St Thomas’s Opus College of Business has more than 70 tenured faculty members, plus 100+ local industry experts

Alabama A&M University has 4,940 undergraduates and 874 graduate students

University of West Alabama’s online MBA is a 33 credit hour program

10/07/2015 12:06

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Š 2015 United Airlines, Inc. All rights reserved.

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More legroom in Economy Plus.ÂŽ

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TRAVEL INFO FLEET

MAPS

SAFETY & REGULATORY

United Airlines is partnering with Cowshed, the premium lifestyle brand of Soho House & Co., to bring travelers refreshing new amenities

United brings premium skincare on board

B

eginning August 1, United will exclusively offer Cowshed skincare products on board our aircraft and in more than a dozen United ClubSM locations and other lounges worldwide. Our United Global FirstSM and United BusinessFirst® amenity kits, available on long-haul international flights to and from the United States, will feature a variety of luxurious Cowshed products, including moisturizing hand cream, lip balm and a chamomile towelette to help travelers arrive at their destination feeling refreshed.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • AUGUST 2015

083_HEM0815_Fleet.indd 83

Customers using the United Club shower facilities in Chicago, Hong Kong, Houston, London, New York/Newark and Tokyo, and the United Arrivals Lounge in San Francisco, can enjoy Cowshed shampoo, conditioner, shower gel, body lotion, hand wash and hand cream.

All of the award-winning Cowshed products are made in England from the best in wildcrafted and fair trade plant extracts and essential oils.

United customers will enjoy products inspired by the scents of an English country garden, which aim to lift spirits and help travelers relax.

83

07/07/2015 15:09

fleet

travel info

MAINLINE

N24199

N24399

767-400ER

N66051

N75390

Boeing 737-900 and 737-900ER

N30401

N25311

AIRCRAFT

CRUISE SPEED

CAPACITY

PROPULSION

WINGSPAN

747-400

777-200/ -200ER

787-8/-9

767-300ER/ -400ER

757-200/-300

737-700/ -800/-900/ -900ER

A319/A320

567 mph

550 mph

560 mph

540 mph

540 mph

530 mph

530 mph

374 passengers

Between 266 and 348 passengers

Between 219 and 252 passengers

Between 183 and 242 passengers

Between 142 and 213 passengers

Between 118 and 179 passengers

Between 120 and 150 passengers

Four Pratt & Whitney PW4056 turbofan engines, rated up to 56,000 pounds thrust

Two General Electric GE90 or two Pratt & Whitney PW4077/4090 turbofan engines, rated up to 94,000 pounds thrust

Two General Electric GEnx-1B turbofan engines, rated up to 74,100 pounds thrust

Two General Electric CF680C2B or Pratt & Whitney PW4060 turbofan engines, rated up to 63,500 pounds thrust

Two Rolls-Royce RB211-535 or two Pratt & Whitney PW2037 turbofan engines, rated up to 43,700 pounds thrust

Two General Electric CFM56 turbofan engines, rated up to 27,100 pounds thrust

Two IAE V2500-A5 turbofan engines, rated up to 26,500 pounds thrust

211 ft., 5 in.

199 ft., 11 in.

197 ft., 4 in.

Up to 170 ft., 4 in.

134 ft., 9 in.

118 ft., 2 in.

111 ft., 11 in.

UNITED EXPRESS N24106

N24411

N24103

N24101

N24108

AIRCRAFT CRUISE SPEED

CAPACITY

PROPULSION

WINGSPAN

84

083_HEM0815_Fleet.indd 84

CRJ-200/-700

EMB 170/175

EMB 135/145

Q200/-300/-400

EMB 120

530 mph

520 mph

530 mph

414 mph

325 mph

Between 50 and 66 passengers

Between 70 and 76 passengers

Between 37 and 50 passengers

Between 37 and 74 passengers

30 passengers

Two General Electric CC348C1 jet engines, rated up to 13,000 pounds thrust

Two General Electric CF34-8E jet engines, rated up to 14,500 pounds thrust

Two Rolls-Royce AE3007 turbofan engines, rated up to 8,900 pounds thrust

Two Pratt and Whitney PW150A engines, rated up to 4,600 pounds thrust

Two Pratt and Whitney PW118 engines, rated up to 2,200 pounds thrust

76 ft., 3 in.

85 ft., 4 in.

69 ft., 7 in.

93 ft., 3 in.

64 ft., 9 in.

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travel info

terminal maps

A great experience awaits you at our renovated Hong Kong United Club location and Global FirstSM Lounge Enjoy the bright and cheery views and take a break from your busy travel day. Have a snack, relax or plug in and get some work done in our newly remodeled United Club location and Global First Lounge in the west concourse, airside, level seven.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM â&#x20AC;˘ AUGUST 2015

087_HEM0815_Terminal_Maps.indd 87

87

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terminal maps

travel info

United Club

SM

Kiosk Check-in/Customer Service Center

Medical Center

United Global First Lounge

Ticketing/Check-in

Transfer Shuttle

United Arrivals Lounge

Baggage Claim

Bus, Monorail or Train Transport

United Premier® Check-in

Immigration

Secure Walkway

SM

TSA Pre

TM

TSA Pre-screening Program

Animal Relief Area

IAH | HOUSTON GEORGE BUSH INTERCONTINENTAL AIRPORT TERMINAL A

TERMINAL B

TERMINAL C

(North Concourse)

United Express

United United Express

Bus Station (A2) A30 A29

A27 A26 A25

A17 A18 A19

A20

12

11

International Arrivals

D

10

D

9

D

8

7

D

D

6A

D

6

D

5

D

D

4

4A

USO D

C17 C16 C15 C14

D

C18

1 D 2 D 3

4 C2

C19 C20 C21 C22 C23

Lufthansa Scandinavian Airlines Singapore Airlines Turkish Airlines

C27

TerminaLink Connects Terminals A, B, C, D, & E via train

(Lower Level)

A24

6

A1

B85A B86A B86 B85 B84A-S B87 B88

C2

A2

A15 B79A B79 A11 B80 B77A A9 B81A B77 B81 B76A A8 B76 B83A A7 B83

C2

A14 A12 A10

5

North Concourse

United Air China ANA Avianca EVA Air

D

United Express Air Canada

TERMINAL D

B31 B21 B30 B22 B20 B29 B23 B19 B28 B24 B18 B27 B25 B17 B26

(Lower Level) B12 B14 B15 B16

B1 B11 B2 B10 B3 B9 B4 B8 B5 B7 B6

C29

E24 C30

C31

C32

C43 C34 C35 C36 C37

South Concourse

TERMINAL A

C33

C44

C45

E10

E1 E2 E3 E4 E5

C42 C41 C40

E12

E14

E9

E23

E15 E16 E17

E8 E7

C39

(South Concourse)

E11

E22 E21 E18

E6

E19

E20

TERMINAL E United United Express

ORD | CHICAGO O’HARE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT E 8

F2

F2

F2 F2 3 F26 F1 1 F2 F1 9 F2 4 F1 7 F2 2 F1 5 1 F1 0 F9 F1 6 F8 F1 4 F7 F1 2 0

F 7 F25

G H

TERMINAL 3

F6 F5 F1 F2 F3 F4

E4 E3 E2

E5

E6

E8

E1

K TERMINAL 2

L

United Express Air Canada

E12 E10

B2 B3 B4 B1

B5

C1 C2 C4 C3 C8 C5 C10 C7 C9 C11 C15 C17 B6

B7

C C16 C18 C20

C22 C19 C24 C21 B8 C26 C23 C28 B9 C25 C27 B10 C30 C29 C31 B11 B12 B14 B16 B17 B18 B19 B20

M

B

B21 B22/23/24

TERMINAL 1 Elevated Airport Transport System

TERMINAL 5 United (international arrivals***), ANA,** Air India, Asiana Airlines, Austrian, Avianca, Copa Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa,** Scandinavian Airlines, SWISS, Turkish Airlines

88

087_HEM0815_Terminal_Maps.indd 88

United United Express ANA* Lufthansa*

*Departures only **Arrivals only ***International arrivals originating from cities with U.S. Customs preclearance will arrive into Terminals 1 or 2

AUGUST 2015 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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travel info

terminal maps

EWR | NEW YORK/NEWARK LIBERTY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT TERMINAL A

TERMINAL C

United United Express Air Canada

United United International Arrivals United Express

TERMINAL C B2

B3

28/28A 27/ 27A

A3

127 128 126 139 125 124 138 123 137 122 136 121 5 120 13 134 3 3 1 2 13 31 1 0 13

X 26

/

6A

/2

26

A2 25/25A

United International Arrivals Lufthansa Scandinavian Airlines SWISS TAP Portugal

P4

4A /2 24 A 23/23

20/20A

TERMINAL B

A1

113

112

111

110 108

107

104

105

102

103

95

80

81 83 85 87 88

90 72

75

70 71

73

82

84

86

74 (Upper Level)

(Lower Level)

TSA PreCheck now available at all 3 checkpoints

DEN | DENVER INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

SFO | SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT B

A B16 B18 B20 B22 B24 B26 B28 B30 B32 B34 B36

Air Canada Lufthansa

A24-A39

A40-A53

A58-A68

TE R M I N A L 1

United United Express

64 63

62 65 61 66 60 78A/B 77A/B/C 6768 69 76A/B 79

C23-C39

B39 B41 B43 B45 B47 B49 B51 B53 B55 B57

84

82

80

85

90

C40-C49

72/73 73A 74

81

88

83

(Lower Level) 75

G92

87

G94

89 G96 G98 G100

G91

G102

C

Gates A1-A12

G93 G95

G101 G97 G99

G

I N T E R N AT I O N A L TE R M I N A L

A Air Canada, Asiana Airlines, Avianca

United, Air Canada, Air China, Air New Zealand, ANA, EVA AIR, Lufthansa, Scandinavian Airlines, Singapore Airlines, SWISS, Turkish Airlines

B7

1 3 5 7 9 1 B8 B8 B8 B8 B8 B9 B93 B95 0 2 4 6 8 0 B8 B8 B8 B8 B8 B9 B92 94 B

9 1 5 7 69 71 73 5 B5 B6 B63 B6 B6 B B B B7 B77 9

B30 B42 B44 B46 B48 B50 B52 B54 B56 B58 B60

TE R M I N A L 2

TERMINAL 3

United United Express

B15 B17 B19 B21 B23 B25 B27 B29 B31 B33 B35 B37

86

Pedestrian Bridge

97

94 91

101

Newark Liberty International Airport Station — Connection with Amtrak and New Jersey Transit

TERMINAL EAST

96 92

109

P1, P2, P3

TERMINAL WEST

98 99

115

114

B1

IAD | WASHINGTON DULLES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT C

D

United United Express

United United Express

C2-4

C6-8

C1-3 A2

A

A1

C10-14

C5-7 A4

A3

C18-26

C9-11 A6

A5

United Express Avianca Copa Airlines Ethiopian

C28-30

D2-8

D1-7

C17-27 A14

A22

A15

D10-16

D9-11

A25

A21

Z Gates 1-4

MAIN TERMINAL

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • AUGUST 2015

087_HEM0815_Terminal_Maps.indd 91

D18-26

D15-21 B38-B48

A32

B35-B51

D28-32

D23-29

B63-B79

B ANA Austrian Avianca Brussels Airlines Lufthansa Scandinavian Airlines South African Airways Turkish Airlines

91

07/07/2015 15:10

terminal maps

travel info

LAX | LOS ANGELES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

GUM | GUAM INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

TERMINAL 2

TE R M I N A L 3

TE R M I N A L 1

Air Canada Avianca

MAIN TERMINAL United 21

71A 71B 73 75A

74

75B 77

TE R M I N A L 4

TE R M I N A L 5

80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88

70A 70B 72

76

20

19

18

17

16

15

14

12 13

TERMINAL 6

TERMINAL 7

TERMINAL 8

Copa Airlines (departures)

United United Express

United United Express

11 (Lower Level) 10

TO M B R A D L E Y I N T E R N A T I O N A L TE R M I N A L United, ANA, Asiana Airlines, Air China, Copa Airlines (arrivals), Ethiopian, EVA AIR Lufthansa, Air New Zealand, Singapore Airlines, SWISS, THAI, Turkish Airlines 9

Food Court (Lower Level)

Café

NRT | TOKYO NARITA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

8

Fourth Floor

Satellite 2

Third Floor 43

42

41

37

35

33

31

Security Checkpoint

27

26

25

7

24 23

44

22 36

38

45 46

34

21

32

North Wing

47

South Wing 18 52

53

6

17 16

51

15 11

54

12

14

5

Satellite 1

55 56 57

4 58

TERMINAL 1 United Air Canada Air China ANA Air New Zealand Asiana Airlines

Austrian EGYPTAIR EVA AIR Lufthansa Scandinavian Airlines

Singapore Airlines SWISS THAI Turkish Airlines

LHR | LONDON HEATHROW INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT TERMINAL 2B

FRA | FRANKFURT INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Gates

Gates

E1-E26

D1-D54

Pier E

Pier D

Pi Gates

B47 B27 B26 B46 B28 B48 B45 B25 B23 B42 B44 B24 B22 B43 Pier B B10-B20 B1-B41

er

C

e Pi

C1-C9

TE R M I N A L 2

B49

B48

B32

B33

B47

B46

B44

B43 B42

B36

B38 B39

B31

B41 B29

Underground Walkway

Pier A

A18 A21

rA

/Z

Gates

Z11-25/A1-42

Pier A/Z

A/Z Gates 50-69

Arrivals Lounge

A5

TE R M I N A L 1 United Aegean Airlines Adria Airways Air Canada Air China ANA Asiana Airlines

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Austrian Croatia Airlines EGYPTAIR Ethiopian LOT Polish Airlines Lufthansa Scandinavian Airlines

Singapore Airlines South African Airways SWISS TAP Portugal THAI Turkish Airlines

TERMINAL 2A

Transfer to Terminal 1 is via walkway Transfer to Terminal 3-4-5 is via secure side shuttle bus

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travel info

DELAYED OR CANCELED FLIGHTS

Tips for when your flight is delayed or canceled On occasion, delaying or canceling a flight is the only way we can maintain our high safety standards. In these challenging situations, simply knowing more about your options is an important step toward getting your travel plans back on track.

GETTING REBOOKED

RESCHEDULING YOUR TRIP

If your travel is significantly disrupted, we’ll automatically look for another flight to book you on. We’ll notify you using the contact information provided during booking or at check-in, and you can also view your updated itinerary through the United app, united.com/checkin or an airport kiosk, or ask a United representative.

If your flight is canceled or delayed two hours or more, and you want to postpone or cancel your trip, please call us at 1-800-UNITED-1 (1-800-864-8331) within the USA or Canada, or go to united.com/contact for international contact options.

Sometimes the next available United flight may not be for several hours or, in rare cases, even longer. In these situations, the following options may be available:

MANY OF THESE FEATURES ARE NOW AVAILABLE THROUGH THE UNITED APP, UNITED.COM/CHECKIN AND OUR AIRPORT KIOSKS. If you’re on an aircraft equipped with Wi-Fi, you can access the United app and united.com for free.

STANDING BY

Flights into or out of nearby airports may be available.

If you’re able to arrange ground transportation, switching to another airport could reduce your delay.

If you’re given a new itinerary but would prefer to take an earlier flight that is sold out, you can ask to be added to the standby list at no charge. If you don’t get a seat, we’ll move you to the standby list for the next flight.

BEFORE YOU TR AVEL

DOWNLOAD THE UNITED APP You can use it to get your boarding passes, check flight status, view standby lists, change to other flights and more.

PROVIDE ACCUR ATE CONTAC T INFORMATION When contacting you about your flights, we rely on the mobile phone number and email address you’ve given us. During check-in, please ensure that your contact details are up to date.

BUY TRIP INSUR ANCE The cost is usually low, and it can offset expenses incurred due to travel disruptions and bag delays. Learn more at united.com/tripinsurance

KEEP ESSENTIAL ITEMS IN YOUR C ARRY-ON BAG You can help yourself through a delay by keeping snacks, baby supplies, medication, travel documents and other essential personal items in your carry-on bag for easy access.

CHECKED BAGS

STAYING OVERNIGHT If your flight is canceled because of a mechanical issue or other circumstances within our control, we will try to accommodate you in a nearby hotel at our expense. For events outside of our control, such as weather, we may be able to help you find a local hotel at a discounted rate, but we do not cover hotel or meal expenses. If this situation applies to your travel, you can ask a United airport representative about discount hotel options.

SWITCHING TO A NEARBY AIRPORT

BE PREPARED

If you are booked on a new itinerary, we’ll make every effort to reroute your checked baggage. Please ask a United representative about the status of your bags and if they can be rerouted.

A toiletry kit may be provided if an overnight stay is necessary and we can’t retrieve your checked baggage.

If your bags arrive at your destination before you do, we will secure the bags until you claim them. If your baggage doesn’t arrive at your final destination with you, please see a Baggage Service representative.

VISIT UNITED.COM/ IMPORTANTNOTICES BEFORE YOUR TRIP This page provides information about severe weather, airport updates and other issues that may affect your travel, and sometimes offers extra flexibility to change your travel plans in advance.

Different policies may apply when traveling to and from certain countries. Please refer to united.com for our Contract of Carriage and additional information.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • AUGUST 2015

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customs & safety

travel info

U.S. and Guam international arrivals/ expedited screening through CBP Arrivals in the U.S. U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) has automated the I-94 arrival/departure record. After CBP inspection, travelers can request a copy of their I-94 at cbp.gov/I94.

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection

Type or print legibly with pen in ALL CAPITAL LETTERS. Use English. Do not write on the back of this form.

This form is in two parts. Please complete both the Arrival Record (Items 1 through 17) and the Departure Record (Items 18 through 21).

When all items are completed, present this form to the CBP Officer.

Item 9 - If you are entering the United States by land, enter LAND in this space. If you are entering the United States by ship, enter SEA in this space.

5 U.S.C. § 552a(e)(3) Privacy Act Notice: Information collected on this form is required by Title 8 of the U.S. Code, including the INA (8 U.S.C. 1103, 1187), and 8 CFR 235.1, 264, and 1235.1. The purposes for this collection are to give the terms of admission and document the arrival and departure of nonimmigrant aliens to the U.S. The information solicited on this form may be made available to other government agencies for law enforcement purposes or to assist DHS in determining your admissibility. All nonimmigrant aliens seeking admission to the U.S., unless otherwise exempted, must provide this information. Failure to provide this information may deny you entry to the United States and result in your removal.

CBP Form I-94 (05/08)

OMB No. 1651-0111

Arrival Record Admission Number

000000000 00

1. Family Name 2. First (Given) Name

5. Sex (Male or Female)

6. Passport Issue Date (DD/MM/YY)

7. Passport Expiration Date (DD/MM/YY)

8. Passport Number

9. Airline and Flight Number

10. Country Where You Live

11. Country Where You Boarded

12. City Where Visa Was Issued

13. Date Issued (DD/MM/YY)

14. Address While in the United States (Number and Street) 15. City and State 16. Telephone Number in the U.S. Where You Can be Reached 17. Email Address CBP Form I-94 (05/08)

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection

OMB No. 1651-0111

Departure Record Admission Number

000000000 00

18. Family Name 19. First (Given) Name

20. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY)

21. Country of Citizenship

CBP Form I-94 (05/08) See Other Side

The TSA manages and operates , an expedited security screening program that allows certain travelers to move through security more quickly and easily when departing from participating airports in the U.S. The TSA, not United, randomly selects travelers for expedited screening.

3. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY)

4. Country of Citizenship

U.S. Customs Declaration One traveler per family must complete a customs declaration before arrival in the U.S. Please read both sides of the document, complete the form in English, using capital letters, and be sure to sign.

If you are passing through the U.S., write “TRANSIT” and your final destination country in the address field.

OMB No. 1651-0111

Welcome to the United States I-94 Arrival/Departure Record Instructions This form must be completed by all persons except U.S. Citizens, returning resident aliens, aliens with immigrant visas, and Canadian Citizens visiting or in transit.

Expedited screening through the U.S. Transportation Security Administration (TSA)

STAPLE HERE

Left: U.S. I-94 Arrival/Departure Record, which all Guam-CNMI Visa Waiver Program participants must complete; right: U.S. Customs Declaration

Arrivals in Guam All travelers entering Guam under the terms of the Guam-CNMI Visa Waiver Program must complete an I-94 Arrival/Departure Record (one per person, including infants); an I-736 (one per person, including infants); and a Guam Customs Declaration (one per family). All other travelers must complete a Guam Customs Declaration only. Forms must be completed in English, using capital letters. If you are passing through Guam, write “TRANSIT” and your final destination country in the address field. The Customs and Border Protection officer will place the I-94 departure record in your passport after inspection. Before boarding your return flight, please give the departure record to the airline representative at the boarding gate.

The ability to use lanes is most consistent for travelers who have joined a Department of Homeland Security Trusted Traveler program. After completing a background check and screening, travelers who are enrolled in a Trusted Traveler program are issued a Known Traveler Number (KTN) or PASS ID. Members of the U.S. Armed Forces, including those serving in the U.S. Coast Guard, Reserves and National Guard, can use their Department of Defense (DoD) identification number.

This number should be noted when making a flight reservation, or you can add it to an existing United reservation through the “Edit traveler information” option at united.com/managereservations.

If the TSA determines that a traveler is eligible for expedited screening, information is embedded in the barcode of his or her boarding pass. A logo or “TSA PRE” is also printed on the boarding pass near the traveler’s name. When the TSA agent at a participating airport scans the barcode, eligible travelers will be directed to a lane. Note that not all airports offer lanes. Children ages 12 and under may accompany an eligible traveler through .

As of April 2015, travelers without a KTN/PASS ID/DoD ID number, including those who previously opted in through a frequent flyer program, will notice a reduction in the number of times they are chosen by the TSA for . Additionally, the TSA will always incorporate random and unpredictable security measures throughout the airport, and in order to retain a certain element of randomness, no individual will be guaranteed expedited screening. Visit tsa.gov/tsa-precheck to learn more.

Expedited entry Clearance in the U.S.—Global Entry™ expedited passport control and customs CBP offers the Global Entry program to expedite the processing of preapproved, low-risk international travelers entering the U.S. Upon returning from travel abroad, travelers enrolled in Global Entry may bypass the regular passport control line and proceed to the Global Entry kiosk. Please note that Global Entry is not available to travelers arriving at Honolulu directly from Guam. For detailed information, including eligibility requirements and the enrollment process, visit globalentry.gov.

OneStop Lanes in Chicago and Houston shorten your walk If you didn’t check any bags, proceed to the OneStop lanes, regardless of your nationality or final destination. Global Entry kiosks are available.

In Houston, you may also use the OneStop lanes if you checked a bag and are immediately connecting to another United-operated international flight.

Safety information NEED TO KNOW Customer safety is our primary concern. Our flight attendants are trained thoroughly in all safety procedures. But as expert as they are, in the event of an emergency they need help from you, the customer. You should be aware of the following:

!

EXIT Location of the nearest emergency exit

The correct procedure for exiting the cabin in an emergency

Where your oxygen mask will appear, how to start the oxygen flow and how to use the mask

Please look carefully at the safety information card located in the seat pocket in front of you

Poisons, radioactive material, corrosive and oxidizing agents

Liquid and solid explosives

Smoking is not permitted. Federal law imposes fines of $1,000 for smoking and up to $2,200 for any attempt to disable an aircraft’s smoke detectors. We prohibit the use of e-cigarettes and personal vaporizers on our flights.

NEVER PERMITTED The Federal Aviation Administration and the Transportation Security Administration prohibit hazardous materials in either checked or carry-on baggage.

Substantial fines can be imposed for violations.

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096_HEM0815_Safety.indd 96

Flammable liquids, gases and compressed gases

Spare lithium batteries can never be in checked baggage, including gate-checked bags. Stow all spare batteries in carry-on bags. E-cigarettes and personal vaporizers are also not permitted in checked bags.

It is a violation of federal regulations to drink alcoholic beverages during a flight unless they are served by our personnel.

Also, airlines are forbidden to serve alcoholic beverages to anyone who appears to be intoxicated.

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customs & safety

travel info

Rechargeable batteries

Use of personal electronic devices

Rechargeable batteries have a risk of overload or fire when not stored properly. Rechargeable batteries should be stored in their electronic devices or properly protected to avoid contact with metal or other batteries during flight. All spare batteries should be protected from short circuit and stowed only in your carry-on bags.

What is the new portable electronic device policy?

Travelers may use small, lightweight portable electronic devices in non-cellular or “airplane” mode on United- and United Express®-operated flights gate-to-gate. This policy applies to flights operating within the 50 U.S. states, all U.S. territories and select international locations as announced by the flight attendant on your flight.

How do devices need to be secured or stowed? Devices may be held in hand (not left unsecured around the seat) or placed in a garment pocket or in the seatback pocket, as long as the device is less than 2 pounds.

Devices weighing more than 2 pounds must be stowed in approved carry-on baggage in the overhead compartment or under the seat in front of you during take-off, taxi and landing.

In an emergency situation, all devices must be turned off and stowed. For international destinations, your flight attendants will advise if it’s necessary to turn off and stow your device.

Are there any exceptions to using personal devices under this new policy? The captain may request that all devices be fully turned off in certain circumstances, such as for poor visibility landings. Please always listen to and follow crewmember instructions.

Does the new policy allow me to use a small notebook laptop?

No. The new policy does not apply to laptops or DVD players,

Travel notes

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096_HEM0815_Safety.indd 98

which may only be used when announced by your flight crew.

Will I be able to use Wi-Fi below 10,000 feet? Our aircraft equipped with satellite Wi-Fi are currently configured to allow Wi-Fi above 10,000 feet.

However, we are exploring options to provide gate-to-gate Wi-Fi in the future.

When can I use in-seat power?

Use of in-seat power is prohibited during taxi, takeoff and landing.

PERMITTED Small, lightweight PEDs (Personal Electronic Devices) may remain on from door closure to landing Cell phones should be in airplane mode or have cellular service disabled Bluetooth devices LIMITED PERMISSION Laptops and DVD players must be stowed in approved carry-on baggage during taxi, takeoff and landing

CUSTOMER CARE We are committed to providing quality service, and we want to hear about your travel experience with us. In addition, if you think a certain employee or an action taken on your behalf deserves special recognition, please let us know. Please give us your comments at united.com/feedback.

Can I make calls or send text messages? The use of cellular network services during the flight is not permitted by the Federal Communications Commission (FCC). The use of any voice application, such as a Web-based Voice over Internet Protocol (VoIP) service, in connection with inflight Wi-Fi service, is not permitted.

E-cigarettes or personal vaporizers may accidentally activate in baggage. This may cause the device to overheat or overload and may cause a fire. For this reason, these devices must be stowed in your carry-on baggage only.

Advanced mobile phones, PDAs and other personal electronic devices with wireless capabilities may be used in flight when switched to “airplane” mode. A visible airplane-disabled mode should be identifiable and shown to a crew member upon request. Flight attendants will notify mobile phone and two-way pager users when it is safe to begin placing or receiving phone calls or pages after landing.

One-way pagers may be used to receive messages at any time.

PLEASE NOTE

NEVER PERMITTED Radio Receivers and/or transmitters, including AM/FM/SW/CB and Scanners Televisions Remote-controlled toys Personal air purifiers Spare lithium batteries in checked or gate-checked bags E-cigarettes or personal vaporizers in checked or gate-checked bags ADDITIONAL INFORMATION All devices must be used with sound off or with headsets at all times

CAN I TAKE PHOTOS AND VIDEO ONBOARD? Yes. The use of small cameras or mobile devices for photography and video is permitted on board, provided you keep the purpose of your photography and video to capturing personal events.

Photographing or recording other customers or airline personnel without their express consent is prohibited.

Customers may always use any medically prescribed physiological instrument, such as a hearing aid or a pacemaker. On aircraft equipped with in-ear headphones, customers with hearing-assistance devices may request a different headset from a flight attendant.

Passengers are allowed to use non-battery-operated headphones during taxi, takeoff and landing.

The in-seat power system may be used only above 10,000 feet. Use of the system is at your own risk.

Do not remove batteries. We are not responsible for loss of data or damage to computer hardware or software.

PLEASE NOTE United strictly prohibits the modification or use of any object or device to alter or limit the functionality, permanently or temporarily, of any aircraft structure, seat assembly, tray table, etc. If you see a customer using any such device or object, please inform United personnel immediately.

AUGUST 2015 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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08/07/2015 09:26

GAMES

At the Tailor Shop

ALL THEME CLUES ARE IN BOLD If you fill in the crossword, please take the magazine with you so it’s replaced.

Answers on page 52

BY GREG BRUCE

101

CROSSWORD © PUZPUZ PUZZLES

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • AUGUST 2015

ACROSS 1. Rope fiber 5. Hunger symptom 9. Conventions 14. A striking success 19. “Yow!” 20. Quaint dance 21. Shade of white 22. Tangle 23. Petri dish filler 24. It comes in black and white 25. Four-door 26. Michaelmas daisy 27. Dried up 28. Surviving spouse 30. Don’t run with these 32. Goo 34. Don’t believe it!

36. Diffident 37. Expected 38. Combustible pile 39. Low-fat meat 40. Put it to 43. Cleo’s undoing 46. I see London, I see ___ 50. Big butte 52. Pretense 54. A losing hazard in English billiards 56. Fluffy accessory 57. Database command 59. Collagist’s need 60. Wine partner 61. Baby-feeding finale 63. Hospital unit 64. Pumpkin-shaped 66. Go over the limit?

68. Final goal 70. End 72. The “I” in T.G.I.F. 74. Bobbin cousin 76. Squeeze (out) 77. Like many a town in the Wild West 81. On the train 83. The ___ (with everything) 88. ER readings 89. Chop down 91. Lackluster 92. Hang around 93. Religious figure 94. Walked

R1_101_HEMI0815_PUZZLES.indd 101

crossword

96. Bearded antelope 97. Pasta topper 98. Tendon 100. “Paradise Lost,” e.g.

102. Account book 104. Nave bench 105. Dined 106. Box for carrying bricks 108. ___-Cola 110. Relative of ‘’i.e.’’

112. Caribbean, e.g.

113. Maximum 115. Easy to read 119. Seamstresses’ guides 123. Taken advantage of 125. Strait-laced 126. Like the boondocks 127. Stand for a portrait 129. Epiphany figures 130. Resurface 131. Give a speech 132. Type of stone 133. A golf club 134. Smooth 135. Daily delivery 136. Omaha home 137. Darn 138. Shred DOWN 1. Crow 2. Plumber’s snake 3. Start 4. Contents of 74 across 5. Someone who sneaks about 6. Condor nest 7. Financial aid criterion 8. Doom’s partner 9. Good thing to be put out of 10. A type of swimming stroke 11. 16 1/2 feet 12. Wipe clean 13. Lip-___ 14. Major wreck 15. Piglike 16. Voice below soprano 17. Crystal ball user 18. His and ___ 29. Towel (off) 31. An end to sex?

33. Take into custody 35. Honkers

39. Musical gift 40. Book with legends 41. Below the Mason-Dixon 42. Boyz II Men’s “On Bended ___” 43. Boosts 44. Salon sound 45. Southern side?

47. “The Sound of Music” figure 48. Verb preceder 49. Birthday or Christmas deliveries 51. Fizzy drink 53. Jamaican fruit 55. Retainer 58. Captured 62. Yellow tropical fruit 63. Hospital supply 65. Put out the candle

67. Pickle flavoring 69. High ball?

71. Mattress pest 73. Reason to cram 75. The “L” of XXL 77. Authorized 78. Make amends 79. Go down 80. Mall activity 82. South African currency unit 84. Have markers out 85. A coarse file 86. Flying toy 87. Lodge 88. You can get a charge out of it 90. Order 95. Bloodshot 97. Stuffed shirt 99. Two ___

101. Get in the running 102. Go on 103. Primetime TV time 107. Crew need 109. Washington’s Grand dam 111. Buttons’ replacer 112. Union member 113. Lexicographer’s concern 114. Pompous; bombastic 115. Access the Web 116. Atlanta athlete 117. Pep up 118. Correct, as text 119. Brace 120. Subtle glow 121. Snare 122. Without ice 124. Legal prefix 128. Forest runner

09/07/2015 08:16

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07/07/2015 10:31

GAMES

sudoku

The Numbers Game

BY REIKO MCLAUGHLIN

103

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • AUGUST 2015

ANSWERS

1. EASY

2. MEDIUM

3. MEDIUM

4. HARD

1.

2.

SUDOKU © PUZPUZ PUZZLES

3.

4.

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45° 52’ N 6° 53’ E

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R1_101_HEMI0815_PUZZLES.indd 103

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star alliance

travel info

Global reach.

Worldwide recognition.

Excellent travel services.

Star Alliance Member Airlines

United and Star Alliance member airlines provide seamless air travel around the world. Star Alliance is the world’s largest global airline alliance, with more than 18,500 daily flights departing to 1,321 destinations. Customers have access to a comprehensive global network, frequent-flyer travel benefits and worldwide lounge access on all Star Alliance member airlines.

The Star Alliance network Established in 1997 as the first truly global airline alliance to offer customers a worldwide travel network, Star Alliance aims to provide customers with a seamless travel experience across multiple airlines. The Star Alliance lounge network is the largest in the world, with more than 1,000 locations worldwide.

Earn miles and status faster With the largest airline alliance, you can earn MileagePlus award miles almost anywhere in the world you fly. Miles can be earned on most fares on almost any Star Alliance flight and can be credited to your account. Plus, the flight miles will count toward Premier® status.

Earn recognition around the world The more that you fly with United and the Star Alliance airlines, the higher your status can be.

MileagePlus Premier status is recognized across the alliance as either Star Alliance Silver or Star Alliance Gold, with travel benefits worldwide. Go to united.com/staralliance for the Star Alliance Silver and Gold status benefits you can receive.

Award travel is now easier With Star Alliance Awards, you can use your MileagePlus award miles for award travel on any Star Alliance carrier worldwide. Or, use them for Star Alliance Upgrade Awards and upgrade to a premium cabin for maximum comfort (available on most Star Alliance airlines).

104

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Other Airline Partners You can earn and/or redeem award miles on many of our other airline partners. See united.com/airlinepartners for specific information about each of our other airline partners.

• Aer Lingus • Aeromar • Air Dolomiti • Amtrak (train) • Azul

• Cape Air • Edelweiss • Germanwings • Great Lakes • Hawaiian Airlines

• Island Air • Jet Airways • Silver Airways

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8:00 pm 7:00 pm

9:00 pm

10:00 pm

12:00 MON.

11:00 pm

1:00 am

12:00 SUN.

2:00 am

3:00 am

5:00 am

6:00 am

7:00 am

8:00 am

9:00 am

11:00 am

10:00 am

12:00 pm

4:00 am

Arctic Ocean

1:00 pm

Arctic Ocean

MIDNIGHT

Route Maps

GREENLAND

CITY United Hub (Blue All Caps)

Route lines do not reflect actual flight path

ALASKA (U.S.)

Cities served Cities served by select airline partners Time zone boundary

United/United Express United Seasonal Service

Lulea Fairbanks Reykjavik

ICELAND

NORWAY

UNITED KINGDOM

Changchun Shenyang

JAPAN

N. KOREA

Tianjin

Sendai

Dalian

SAN FRANCISCO

Komatsu

S. KOREA

Seoul TOKYO (NRT) Tokyo/Haneda (HND) Pusan Fukuoka Osaka Nagoya Nanjing Cheju Okayama Hefei Nagasaki Shanghai Chengdu Wuhan Kumamoto Kochi Oita Hangzhou Ningbo Kagoshima Chongqing 6:00 Matsuyama Changsha Wenzhou Miyazaki Nanchang Guiyang BHUTAN Fuzhou Guwahati Guangzhou Okinawa Kunming Taipei Xiamen BANGLADESH Guilin Agartala Nanning Macau Shenzhen Ishigaki Dhaka BURMA Hanoi Hong Kong TAIWAN Chiang Rai LAOS Haikou Chiang Mai Vientiane Zhengzhou

Yangon

THAILAND

Krabi Phuket Hat Yai Penang

9:00 pm

South China Sea

Khon Kaen

Bangkok CAMBODIA Siem Reap Phnom Penh VIETNAM

5:30

Qingdao

Luzon Island

Torreon

Saipan Rota

PHILIPPINES

GUAM

Cebu

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)

Kwajalein

Yap Pohnpei

Kota Kinabalu

MALAYSIA

Chuuk (Truk)

Palau

FEDERATED STATES OF MICRONESIA

Bandar Seri Begawan

Kuala Lumpur

MARSHALL ISLANDS

Majuro

Funchal

Bermuda

CANARY ISLANDS

Monterrey

Durango MEXICO

Tenerife Las Palmas

Santo Domingo Aguadilla

Nassau

Tampico Aguascalientes Providenciales San Juan Queretaro Cozumel Puerto Mexico City St. Thomas Plata Veracruz Ciudad del Grand Cayman Puerto Vallarta Santiago St. Maarten Manzanillo Carmen Puebla Montego Antigua Belize Punta Guadalajara Bay Oaxaca Cana Roatan Morelia Huatulco San Pedro Sula Tegucigalpa Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo St. Lucia Aruba Villahermosa San Andrés Bonaire Acapulco Guatemala City Barranquilla Maracaibo NIC. Port-of-Spain Panama San Salvador Caracas COSTA City Valledupar Managua RICA Valencia Cartagena Cucuta PANAMA Liberia

HAWAI‘I (U.S.)

Los Cabos

Honolulu

VENEZUELA

Medellin Armenia Cali

Kosrae

BRUNEI

Bucaramanga

ALGERIA

WESTERN SAHARA

Dakar

D

O

N

E

S

I

A

Jakarta

U. A. E.

GUINEA BISSAU

Conakry GUINEA Freetown

SURINAME

SIERRA LEONE

Monrovia LIBERIA

BENIN TOGO

Fortaleza

Colombo SOMALIA

UGANDA

Entebbe

Libreville GABON CONGO

SRI LANKA KENYA

RWANDA

Mahé

BURUNDI

Bujumbura

TANZANIA

3:00 pm

Lima

Pago Pago

WESTERN SAMOA

Port Vila Cairns

FIJI

FRENCH POLYNESIA

Nadi

Noumea

1:00

Brisbane

Norfolk Island

Gold Coast

9:30 pm

to San Francisco

Adelaide

Sydney

Melbourne

Nelson

NEW ZEALAND Queenstown

Route lines reflect flights operated by United Airlines and/or its regional partners. For accurate flight schedules, please see www.united.com. © 2015 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

7:00 pm

R1_Insert_HEM0815_Routemaps.indd 107

8:00 pm

Rotorua Napier-Hastings

Palmerston North Wellington Blenheim Christchurch

Dunedin

World time zones shown in Standard Time.

9:00 pm

10:00 pm

11:00 pm

to New York (Newark) to Washington (Dulles)

NAMIBIA

1:00 am

2:00 am

3:00 am

4:00 am

5:00 am

Rio de Janeiro

Windhoek

BOTSWANA

Gaborone Johannesburg

ARGENTINA

Bermuda

Piedras Negras Monterrey Torreon Matamoros Durango MEXICO Ciudad Victoria

COLOMBIA

12:00 MIDNIGHT

to New York (Newark)

Bloemfontein Maseru

Porto Alegre

7:00 am

Montevideo Buenos Aires

NORWAY

Manzini

Oslo SWEDEN

FINLAND

Turku

Helsinki

Stockholm

Tallinn ESTONIA

Stavanger MADAGASCAR Aberdeen

SCOTLAND Maputo

Glasgow Edinburgh SWAZILAND NORTHERN Newcastle IRELAND UNITED Durban KINGDOM Belfast

Aalborg

Gothenburg LATVIA

Riga

DENMARK

Aarhus Billund Esbjerg

Copenhagen Malmo Gdansk

Palanga LITHUANIA RUSSIA

Vilnius

Kaliningrad

Atlantic Ocean

Atlantic Ocean

8:00 am

6:00 pm

Bremen Hamburg SOUTH AFRICA Minsk Manchester POLAND East London Dublin WALES Berlin ENGLAND NETH. BELARUS Hannover Cape Town Shannon Amsterdam Birmingham Warsaw Port Muenster Elizabeth Cork GERMANY Leipzig London BELGIUM Dresden Bristol London Brussels Prague Katowice (Gatwick) Cologne Frankfurt Kraków UKRAINE CZECH Cities served by select airline Luxembourg Nuremberg REPUBLIC partners that are not visible Stuttgart SLOVAKIA Kosice Munich Paris on the map: Salzburg Basel Linz Vienna Budapest AUSTRIA FRANCE Blantyre, Malawi Friedrichshafen Klagenfurt Cluj-Napoca SWITZ. Durban, South Africa Ljubljana Geneva Verona Lyon Venice Zagreb Bucharest Harare, Zimbabwe Trieste BOS. ROMANIA Turin Milan Bologna Manzini, Swaziland Belgrade HERZ. Genoa Florence Toulouse Sarajevo Lilongwe, Malawi La Coruna SERBIA BULGARIA Marseille Nice Pisa Ancona Split Bilbao KOS. Maputo, Mozambique Sofia Dubrovnik Skopje Rome SPAIN Istanbul Bari Tirana MAC. Barcelona Porto ALBANIA Naples Madrid ITALY Thessaloniki PORTUGAL Valencia Alexandroupolis Palma GREECE Ibiza Izmir La Romana Palermo Alicante Lisbon Mediterranean Sea Athens Sevilla Mikonos Faro Bodrum MALTA Luga Heraklion Rhodes

URUGUAY Santiago

5:00 pm

IRELAND LESOTHO

VENEZUELA

6:00 am

Bergen

Lilongwe MOZAMBIQUE ZIMBABWE

Belo Horizonte

PARAGUAY

Santiago Samana Santo Domingo Nassau Aguadilla San Juan Havana Culebra Los Cabos Tampico Vieques Providenciales Aguascalientes Queretaro St. Thomas Tepic Cozumel Poza Rica Tortola Puerto Plata Virgin Gorda Jalapa Grand Cayman Puerto Vallarta Ciudad del Anguilla Manzanillo Veracruz Carmen Mexico Montego St. Maarten City Puebla Guadalajara Belize Bay Punta Ponce Antigua Oaxaca Kingston Morelia Cana Roatan Pointe a Pitre Lazaro Mayagüez St. Kitts San Pedro Sula Cardenas Martinique Huatulco Nevis Puerto St. Lucia Tegucigalpa Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo Escondido Villahermosa Barbados San Andres Aruba Acapulco Bonaire Island Guatemala City NIC. Grenada Tobago San Salvador Pacific Ocean COSTA Caracas Port-of-Spain Managua RICA Panama City Liberia PANAMA

Auckland Hamilton

to Cleveland

HOUSTON (INTERCONTINENTAL) San Austin New Orleans Chihuahua Antonio Guaymas

Tasman Sea

to Denver

to Los Angeles

Perth

6:00 pm

Lusaka

Harare

CHILE

Rarotonga

NEW CALEDONIA

Indian Ocean

10:00 am

Brasilia

Nuku’ Alofa

AUSTRALIA

MALAWI

ZAMBIA

BOLIVIA Santa Cruz

Papeete

Niue

ANGOLA

Salvador Cuzco

4:00 pm

COMOROS

Lubumbashi Apia

Indian Ocean

SEYCHELLES

Dar Es Salaam

2:00 pm

Recife

MALDIVES

Nairobi

Kigali

Kinshasa

Coimbatore

ETHIOPIA

Juba

DEM. REP. CONGO

Bangalore Chennai (Madras)

Kozhikode Cochin Trivandrum

Addis Ababa

SOUTH SUDAN

CENTRAL AFRICAN REPUBLIC

Douala Yaounde

Luanda

Coral Sea

Goa Mangalore

Ambouli

CAMEROON

Accra Lome Abidjan Malabo

Pune Hyderabad

Mumbai

NIGERIA

Abuja Cotonou Port Harcourt GHANA Lagos

Pointe Noire

BRAZIL

Raipur

YEMEN

DJIBOUTI

Kano

Kolkata

Nagpur

Asmara

SUDAN

SAO TOME & PRINCIPE

Manaus

Khartoum

INDIA

Ahmedabad

Arabian Sea 4:00 pm

ERITREA

CHAD

1:00 pm

GAMBIA Bamako BURKINA Ouagadougou FASO Bissau

Denpasar Bali

Darwin

Muscat OMAN

SAUDI ARABIA

Sao Tome

PERU

Black Sea

NIGER

EQUATORIAL GUINEA

Guayaquil

PAPUA NEW GUINEA

C

Krasnodar

Alma-Ata Bishkek UZBEKISTAN GEORGIA Tbilisi Skopje Batumi Istanbul 5:00 Tashkent KYRGYZSTAN Baku Tirana ARMENIA Ankara AZER. TURKMENISTAN Kayseri ALB. GREECE Izmir Yerevan Dushanbe TURKEY TAJIKISTAN Athens Antalya Adana Gaziantep Bodrum Ashgabat Tunis Malta Rhodes Ercan Larnaca Islamabad AFGHAN. CYPRUS Beirut TUNISIA Mediterranean Sea LEBANON Jammu Peshawar SYRIA Tripoli Tel Aviv IRAN Amritsar 4:30 ISRAEL Lahore Amman Benghazi Alexandria IRAQ Chandigarh 3:30 Kathmandu JORDAN 5:00 Kuwait Cairo Delhi NEPAL PAKISTAN Dammam 2:00 pm QATAR Jaipur LIBYA Lucknow Bahrain Luxor Dubai Karachi Riyadh Doha Indore 5:30 Patna Abu Dhabi SERB. Sofia KOS.

MONT.

SENEGAL

Banjul

Quito

N

Astana

KAZAKHSTAN

EGYPT

MALI

FRENCH GUIANA

ECUADOR

6:00 pm

Donetzk

MAURITANIA Sal CAPE VERDE ISLANDS

GUYANA

Neiva

4:00

Jeddah

COLOMBIA

Singapore

I

Nador

MOROCCO

New Orleans

San Antonio

Madrid

Lisbon

Horta

12:00

HOUSTON Austin (INTERCONTINENTAL) Chihuahua

Barcelona

PORTUGAL

NEW YORK (NEWARK)

Casablanca

COMMONWEALTH OF NORTHERN MARIANA ISLANDS

Manila

Cleveland

WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES)

DENVER

LOS ANGELES

International Date Line

Baotou

BELARUS

Rome

SPAIN

CHICAGO (O’HARE)

Ekaterinburg

Sea

Hohhot Beijing

Vilnius Minsk

ian

Urumqi

Moscow

GERMANY Warsaw Brussels Cork POLAND Kiev Prague Birmingham London Krakow Frankfurt Stuttgart UKRAINE Kosice Munich Paris MOLDOVA Chisinau AUSTRIA SWITZ. Odessa FRANCE Zagreb ROMANIA Geneva BOS.- Belgrade Bucharest Milan Venice HER.

U.S.A.

Sapporo

Gdansk

5:00 pm

4:00

Riga

LITH.

asp

Pacific Ocean

Harbin

MONGOLIA

CHINA

Shannon

CANADA

RUSSIA

St. Petersburg

Tallinn LAT.

Edinburgh Copenhagen Malmo Newcastle Hamburg Manchester Amsterdam Berlin

Belfast Dublin

Khabarovsk

8:00 pm

FINLAND Helsinki

Stockholm

Glasgow

9:30

2:00 pm

Turku

Oslo

Hudson Bay

2:00

Oulu

Umea Trondheim Ostersund Kristiansund Vaasa Molde SWEDEN

Anchorage

RUSSIA

Ulaanbataar

Alta

Tromso

United Future Service

INTERNATIONAL CITIES

3:00 pm

2:00 pm

9:00 am

10:00 am

11:00 am

12:00 NOON

1:00 pm 0815

08/07/2015 15:27

information

Cullaton Lake Ennadai Lake Prince Rupert

Route Maps

Smithers Terrace

Sand Spit

United Future Service

INTERNATIONAL CITIES

Fort St. John

Route lines do not reflect actual flight path

Cities served Cities served by select airline partners Time zone boundary

Fort McMurray

United/United Express United Seasonal Service

Prince George

to Fairbanks

Grande Prairie PA C I F I C TIME ZONE 4:00

to Anchorage

BRITISH C O LU M B I A

Kamloops Nanaimo

NE W FO U N D L A N D TI M E Z O N E 8 : 3 0

Wabush

MANITOBA

Gander

A L B E R TA

Deer Lake

Calgary

Penticton

Victoria

NEWFOUNDLAND & LABRADOR

S A S K AT C H E WA N

For the 11th year in a row, MileagePlus® is proud to be named the world’s Best Frequent Flyer Program by Global Traveler magazine. Our award-winning loyalty program offers innovative ways to earn and use award miles, from flying United’s global route network to enjoying other special opportunities through programs and partners like MileagePlus Exclusives, our global hotel partners and DIRECTV.

Saskatoon Castlegar Cranbrook Lethbridge Medicine Hat Spokane Kalispell

Seattle

Pacific Ocean

WA S H I N GT O N

Portland

Pasco

Regina

Missoula

North Bend

Redmond

M O N TA NA

N O R T H Devils Lake DA KO TA

Bozeman

I DA H O

OREGON

Medford

Billings

Dickinson

MINNE SOTA

Bismarck

Fargo Jamestown

Cody/ Yellowstone Sheridan Idaho Falls Sun Valley SOUTH Gillette Worland Rapid City DA KO TA Jackson Hole

Boise Redding

Bathurst

U N I T E D S TAT E S

Moncton

Timmins Rouyn-Noranda

Thunder Bay

Duluth

QUÉBEC

Wausau Minneapolis Eau Claire Green Bay

Halifax

SCOTIA Bangor Bar Harbor

Ottawa V T. Plattsburgh N.H. Burlington

Portland

Kingston

Traverse City

N E W YO R K

Manchester

Toronto Syracuse M I C H I GA N Albany Midland/ Boston Rochester Ithaca Muskegon Grand Saginaw Sarnia Buffalo/ Hartford/ M A S S . Hyannis Sacramento Reno/Tahoe Rock Springs W YO M I N G Milwaukee Rapids Niagara Falls Binghamton SpringfieldR.I. Flint Nantucket I OWA Elmira C.T. Providence London Scottsbluff Lansing SAN FRANCISCO Madison Salt Lake City Wilkes Barre/ Alliance White Detroit Windsor Laramie South Scranton Erie San Jose Plains NEBRASKA Cedar Mammoth Lakes Cheyenne Bend/Elkhart/ Cleveland Hayden/ New York (La Guardia) Rapids/ Mishawaka Omaha Steamboat Fresno N.J. North Platte U TA H (J.F. Kennedy) State Des PA Iowa City Akron/Canton Springs Monterey C O L O R A D O Allentown Grand College Moines NEW YORK (NEWARK) Dubois Visalia O H I O Peoria Junction Vail/Eagle DENVER Ft. Philadelphia Kearney Pittsburgh Moline CA L I F O R N I A Harrisburg Lincoln Wayne Columbus Johnstown Aspen McCook MD ILLINOIS I N D I A NA Morgantown Colorado Springs St. George Baltimore D E L .

San Luis Obispo Montrose Dayton Gunnison/ Bakersfield Clarksburg WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES) Springfield Crested Indianapolis Hays Las Vegas Parkersburg Shenandoah Butte Santa Maria Page/ Cincinnati (Reagan National) WV Cortez Valley Durango Kansas City KANSAS Lake Powell St. Louis Santa Barbara Charlottesville Burbank Charleston Louisville Alamosa Lewisburg Richmond Farmington LOS ANGELES Evansville Lexington Ontario Dodge City Norfolk/Virginia Beach Wichita Orange County Roanoke V I R G I N I A KENTUCKY Liberal A R I Z O NA Santa Fe Springfield Prescott Greensboro/High Point/Winston-Salem Palm Springs Raleigh/Durham NORTH M I S S O U R I Paducah Amarillo Show Low Tulsa San Diego Knoxville CA R O L I NA Albuquerque Nashville Northwest Phoenix/Scottsdale Oklahoma City Charlotte Arkansas Asheville Fayetteville/Ft. Bragg TENNE SSEE ARKANSAS Greenville/ Spartanburg OKLAHOMA Memphis Lubbock Little NEW MEXICO Tucson Rock Huntsville/ Columbia Myrtle Beach Decatur SOUTH Atlanta CA R O L I NA Hobbs Charleston Dallas/ Birmingham El Paso Fort Worth H AWA I ‘ I -A L E U T I A N T I M E 1 : 0 0 Monroe Midland/ Atlantic Odessa GEORGIA Jackson Shreveport Kaua‘i TEXAS Ocean Savannah A L A BA M A Tyler Riverton

N E VA DA

H AWA I ‘ I

Killeen

O‘ahu

Maui

0

50

Hawai‘i

100

Mobile

Pensacola

Tallahassee

MEXICO

150 Miles

50 100 150 200 Kilometers

McAllen

0

100

200

300

400 Miles

Harlingen Brownsville

F L O R I DA

Orlando

Ft. Myers

Gulf Of Mexico

100

200

300

400

500

Newark (Liberty)

New Haven Stamford New York (Penn Station)

Earn 25,000 miles with DIRECTV2 Get ready for this season’s biggest games. Upgrade to DIRECTV and get 2015 NFL SUNDAY TICKET included at no extra charge with the CHOICETM Package or higher. Plus, you’ll earn 25,000 award miles. Also enjoy free installation in up to four rooms with no start-up costs or equipment to buy.

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Premier Silver

Premier Gold

Premier Platinum

Premier 1K®

Award miles earned per dollar spent (includes Premier bonus miles)5

7x

8x

9x

11x

Complimentary Premier Upgrades confirmation (as early as)

Day of departure

48 hours

72 hours

96 hours

At check-in

At booking

At booking

At booking

Instant upgrades on select full-fare economy tickets Premier Access® priority airport services Unrestricted access to Standard Awards Complimentary access to preferred seating in economy class (Economy Plus®) Lounge access when traveling internationally Regional Premier Upgrades eligibility Global Premier Upgrades eligibility fees required. Programming, pricing and offers are subject to change and may vary in certain markets. Conditions apply. Call for details.

Premier® qualifying dollars apply to members whose address with MileagePlus is within the 50 United States or the District of Columbia.

4 In the event of a conflict between the Premier benefits shown on this page and the full list of Premier benefits found at united.com/premier, the full list of Premier benefits will be regarded as accurate.

MileagePlus members earn MileagePlus award miles based on the fare and MileagePlus status for most United/United Express flights, with some exclusions. Visit united.com/earn for more details.

Miles accrued, awards and benefits issued are subject to change and are subject to the rules of the United MileagePlus® program, including, without limitation, the Premier® program (the “MileagePlus Program”), which are expressly incorporated herein. United® may change the MileagePlus Program including, but not limited to, rules, regulations, travel awards and special offers or terminate the MileagePlus Program at any time and without notice. United and its subsidiaries, affiliates and agents are not responsible for any products or services of other participating companies and partners. United and MileagePlus are registered service marks. For complete details about the MileagePlus Program, go to united.com.

5

Global Traveler, GT Tested Awards, 2014 Best Frequent Flyer Program, 11th consecutive year as voted by the readers of Global Traveler magazine. www.globaltravelerusa.com

BAHAMAS George Town

600 Kilometers

MileagePlus Premier member benefits

3

Philadelphia Wilmington Washington, DC

Key West 0

BERMUDA

Boston

Treasure Cay Marsh Harbour Ft. Lauderdale/Hollywood North Eleuthera Governors Harbour Miami Bimini Nassau

MileagePlus features four status levels, each with its own requirements for Premier qualifying miles, segments and dollars.3 Go to united.com/ premier for details. Current MileagePlus members can check on their progress toward 2016 Premier status at united.com/mystatus. Below is a sample of current MileagePlus Premier benefits.4

Get more out of your hotel points Top off your mileage balance with help from our hotel partners. MileagePlus has partnerships with hotel rewards programs worldwide, including Marriott Rewards® , Hilton HHonors™, IHG® Rewards Club, Starwood Preferred Guest® and more, that allow you to convert the points you earn from hotel stays into extra MileagePlus award miles. Now through August 31, 2015, earn up to 20,000 bonus miles when you convert hotel points into MileagePlus award miles. Register now at united.com/pointstomiles.

MileagePlus Eligible Service

Jacksonville

Sarasota/Bradenton West Palm Beach

Corpus Christi

Route lines reflect flights operated by United Airlines and/or its regional partners. For accurate flight schedules, please see www.united.com. © 2015 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

MileagePlus program Premier® benefits overview

Codeshare/MileagePlus Partner Service

Tampa/St. Petersburg

Laredo

Hilo

Kona

Pacific Ocean

Baton Rouge

#1 in award seat availability for the sixth year in a row1 The MileagePlus program can really take you where you want to go. With flights on United® , United Express® and other members of the Star Alliance™ network, we can get you to more than 1,100 award travel destinations worldwide. Even better, we’ve been ranked #1 in award seat availability among U.S. global carriers for the sixth year in a row. When it comes to booking award travel, you’re much more likely to find the Saver Award seat you want with MileagePlus. To book your next award trip, go to united.com.

Enjoy unique experiences with MileagePlus Exclusives Bid on or buy access to some of the world’s best events through MileagePlus Exclusives. Offers are available at a wide range of mileage amounts and are continually updated to bring you different types of memorable experiences. From food and wine to sports and entertainment, there’s a world of experiences to choose from. Learn more at united.com/ exclusives.

Train Routes

MISSISSIPPI

Lake Charles Ft. Walton Panama Gulfport/ Beach Lafayette HOUSTON City New Biloxi San Antonio (INTERCONTINENTAL) Beaumont/ Orleans Pt. Arthur

Kahului

Lana‘i

0

LOUISIANA

College Station Alexandria

Austin

Honolulu Kapalua

Appleton/ Fox Cities

Sioux Falls

Casper Chadron

AT L A N T I C TIME ZONE 8:00

N OVA

MAINE

North Bay

WISCONSIN

Pierre Huron

Saint John

Sudbury Sault Ste. Marie

Fredericton

City

O N TA R I O

Houghton

Îles de la Madeleine

P R I N C E E DWARD Sydney NEW ISLAND B RU N SW I C K Charlottetown

Saguenay

Williston Minot

Gulf Of St. Lawrence

Mont-Joli

EASTERN TIME ZONE 7: 0 0

Glasgow Great Falls

Helena

Eureka

Gaspe Baie-Comeau

Winnipeg

Eugene

Best Frequent Flyer Program, 11 years running

Edmonton CENTRAL TIME ZONE 6:00

Vancouver

THE WORLD’S MOST REWARDING LOYALTY PROGRAMSM

Goose Bay

C A N A DA

M O U N TA I N TIME ZONE 5:00

MileagePlus

CITY United Hub (Blue All Caps)

Among United States global carriers (United, American Airlines and Delta) as published by IdeaWorksCompany in their annual Switchfly Reward Seat Availability Survey of saver-style rewards available June–October of the applicable survey year, each from 2010–2015.

2 24-month agreement required. Offer valid through 10/20/15. Credit card required (except in MA and PA). New approved customer only (lease required). Hardware available separately. Additional 1

0815

CUBA

R1_Insert_HEM0815_Routemaps.indd 112

08/07/2015 15:27

ENTERTAINMENT MOVIES & TV

AUDIO

PERSONAL DEVICE ENTERTAINMENT

Tomorrowland Enjoy movies and shows on the mainscreen or on your personal displays in August

Hot Pursuit

MythBusters

What to watch:

Marvel’s The Avengers: Age of Ultron Far From the Madding Crowd

Featuring

Page 116

Paul Blart: Mall Cop 2 Most films have been edited for airline use. However, customer discretion is still advised. Content guidelines are provided as a courtesy to help our customers decide whether to view a film.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • AUGUST 2015

R1_107_HEM0815_Entertainment.indd 107

Digital media loading occurs between the 25th of one month and the 5th of the following month. As a result, please understand if your flight features a different lineup before or after the start of each month.

107

09/07/2015 08:17

movies & tv

entertainment

Enjoy these movies on the mainscreen Films are shown on flights of three hours or longer. Schedules and selections are subject to change.

En el canal 10 encontrará películas y programas de televisión disponibles en Español.

Flights within Micronesia or Asia on 737 aircraft may feature these films or other selections.

FREE ACCESS Welcome aboard. United is pleased to offer the following entertainment options throughout its fleet. Please refer to your safety seatback card to determine your flight’s aircraft and then consult the chart below to determine the entertainment options available on your flight.* on Ec y

om

m iu em Pr bin ca

Aircraft

EASTBOUND/SOUTHBOUND

WESTBOUND/NORTHBOUND

2 hr. 10 min. Bound by a shared destiny, a

1 hr. 27 min. An uptight, by-the-book police

teenager bursting with scientific curiosity and a former boy-genius inventor embark on a mission to unearth the secrets of a place that exists in their collective memory—a city filled with robots and futuristic gadgets.

officer tries to protect the sexy, outgoing widow of a drug boss as they race through Texas. With crooked cops and murderous gunmen in pursuit, can this mismatched duo escape the bad guys and avoid killing each other in the process?

FEATURING

A319

Hot Pursuit [T]

Tomorrowland

George Clooney, Britt Robertson Bird

FEATURING

DIRECTED BY Brad

Reese Witherspoon, Sofia Vergara Anne Fletcher

DIRECTED BY

A320 Select B757-300 B777-200 77H/Y

**

**

Select B737-700 B737-800/900

**

Short Subject Programming Not all programming is available on all flights.

**

Select B757-300 B757-200 75J (p.s.)

B757-200 75B B767-300 76E B767-400 B777-200 77D/J/Q B787-8 78V B747-400 47C B767-300 67I Select B737-700 (Guam) B757-200 57Q B757-200 57U, X

Fixer Upper

MythBusters

43 min. The first rule of real estate: location, location, location. But what happens when a buyer’s only option in the right location is a house with a dreadful design and clunky layout? Design and real estate pros Chip and Joanna Gaines help renovate the wrong houses in the right spots.

45 min. In this episode, Adam and Jamie tackle the greatest animated TV series of all time, “The Simpsons.” Alongside executive producer and show runner Al Jean, the team test some of the show’s best cartoon gags to see which could happen in real life and which are, well, busted.

FEATURING Chip Gaines, PRESENTED BY HGTV

FEATURING Adam Savage, PRESENTED BY Discovery

Joanna Gaines

Jamie Hyneman

Select B757-300

Mainscreen: View the mainscreen entertainment selections on your flight at right. For passengers on a B747-400, see page 109.

ADDITIONAL TELEVISION

The Goldbergs • Parks and Recreation • Pawn Stars • Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives • Elementary • The Big Bang Theory [T] • The Middle • Unlikely Animal Friends • Property Brothers

Personal Device Entertainment: Go to page 113 to learn about personal device entertainment.

Seatback entertainment: Go to page 109 to view the entertainment selections on your flight.

Available on international flights

DirecTV: Go to pages 110–111 to view the DirecTV entertainment options on your flight.

Seatback on-demand entertainment: Browse the extensive library of entertainment options right from your seatback monitor. View some of the featured entertainment selections for this month at right.

Far From the Madding Crowd [T]

Home

1 hr., 59 min. Based on the Thomas Hardy *Due to ongoing in-flight entertainment system updates, please understand if your flight features a different system than listed.

We apologize for any inconvenience. **Depending on your aircraft, one of these entertainment systems listed will be available.

108

107_HEM0815_Entertainment.indd 108

novel, this film follows a beautiful young farm owner facing three very different suitors.

1 hr., 34 min. An alien misfit lands on Earth and forms an unlikely friendship with an adventurous girl named Tip.

FEATURING Carey Mulligan, Matthias Schoenaerts DIRECTED BY Thomas Vinterberg

VOICES BY Jim Parsons, Rihanna DIRECTED BY Tim Johnson

AUGUST 2015 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

07/07/2015 15:17

entertainment

B747 Mainscreen Programming UNITED KINGDOM

movies & tv

2 hr. = Two-hour block of television [T] = Adult themes

FROM U.S.

TO U.S.

Tomorrowland 2 hr., 10 min. [e, g, f] Paul Blart: Mall Cop 2 1 hr., 34 min. [e, g, f]

Hot Pursuit [T] 1 hr., 27 min. [e, g, f] Far From the Madding Crowd [T] 1 hr., 59 min. [e, g, f]

2 hr.

GERMANY

2 hr.

The Divergent Series: Insurgent [T] 1 hr., 59 min. [e, g, f] Home 1 hr., 34 min. [e, g, f]

Marvel’s The Avengers: Age of Ultron [T] 2 hr., 21 min. [e, g, f] The Longest Ride [T] 2 hr., 15 min. [e, g, f]

2 hr.

2 hr.

AUSTRALIA JAPAN & SOUTH KOREA CHINA & HONG KONG

Tomorrowland 2 hr., 10 min. [e, j, k, c] w Paul Blart: Mall Cop 2 1 hr., 34 min. [e, j, k, c]

Hot Pursuit [T] 1 hr., 27 min. [e, k, c] Far From the Madding Crowd [T] 1 hr., 59 min. [e, j, k, c]

2 hr.

2 hr.

The Divergent Series: Insurgent [T] 1 hr., 59 min. [e, j, k, c] Home 1 hr., 34 min. [e, j, k, c]

Marvel’s The Avengers: Age of Ultron [T] 2 hr., 21 min. [e, j, k, c] The Longest Ride [T] 2 hr., 15 min. [e, j, k, c]

2 hr.

2 hr.

B767 Seatback Entertainment** CH.

EASTBOUND/SOUTHBOUND

WESTBOUND/NORTHBOUND

1

Tomorrowland [e, f, g, i, s, p]

Hot Pursuit [e, f, g, i, s, p]

2

Paul Blart: Mall Cop 2 [e, f, g, i, s, p]

Far From the Madding Crowd [e, f, g, i, s, p]

3

The Water Diviner [e, f, i] DISCRETION ADVISED

True Story [e, f, g, i, s, p] DISCRETION ADVISED

4

Bessie [e, s] DISCRETION ADVISED

Little Boy [e]

RECENT FAVORITES

5

Ghostbusters [e, f, s, p]

Ocean’s Eleven [e, f, g, i, s, p]

FAMILY/ KIDS

6

Monsters, Inc. [e, f, g, i, s, p]

Home [e, f, g, i, s, p]

PRIMETIME

7

Pawn Stars/Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives/ Ancient Aliens/MythBusters

Unlikely Animal Friends/Property Brothers

COMEDY

8

New Girl/The Goldbergs/Parks and Recreation/ The Odd Couple/Mike & Molly

Black-ish/The Big Bang Theory/The Middle/ Brooklyn Nine-Nine/Undateable

PREMIUM TELEVISION/ AIRSHOW

9

The Odd Couple (x5)

Vikings (x3)

*Programming may vary based on length of route and languages will vary based on destination. **Only applicable to our 3-cabin 767-300 in Economy. If your aircraft features seatback on-demand entertainment, please use the touch screen to access content choices.

ENTERTAINMENT NOTES Customers are welcome to view their own video entertainment aboard a United aircraft as long as they are able to show that the programming has an MPAA rating of “R” or less.

Paul Blart: Mall Cop 2

The Longest Ride 2 hr., 15 min. This romance follows the love affair between a former champion bull rider and a college student about to enter NYC’s art world.

1 hr., 34 min. After six years of keeping malls safe, Paul Blart has earned a vacation, so he heads to Vegas with his teen daughter.

FEATURING Scott Eastwood, Britt DIRECTED BY George Tillman Jr.

FEATURING Kevin James, Raini DIRECTED BY Andy Fickman

Robertson

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • AUGUST 2015

R1_107_HEM0815_Entertainment.indd 109

Rodriguez

International Language Tracks (G) Synchronisierte Versionen finden Sie auf Kanal 2 und 3 (wenn verfügbar). (J) 日本語の吹き替えはチャンネル2番およ び３番でお聴きいただけます。（一部英語音声のみとなり ます。） (C) 如果可用，在第2频道和第3频道将提供语言 录音 (K) 채널 2,3에서 더빙버전이 제공됩니다 (G) German; (F) French; (P) Portuguese; (I) Italian; (S) Spanish; (J) Japanese; (C) Chinese; (K) Korean

109

09/07/2015 08:17

directv®

entertainment

What you want to watch You can select from more than 100 channels of live television along with a full slate of blockbuster Hollywood movies, sitcoms and dramas. Purchase DIRECTV® and stay entertained for your entire flight.

HOW TO USE 1. Swipe your card* to begin.

2. Select your channel or movie and start watching.

3. Listen using your own headset or ask a flight attendant for complimentary earbuds.

Your purchase is good for the entire flight, even when the aircraft door is open before takeoff, and you can turn the TV on and off throughout your flight. please note: Personal device entertainment is not offered on aircraft with seatback DIRECTV *MasterCard, Visa, American Express or Discover accepted. TV and movies are complimentary in first class.

TV Channels live television, movies, sitcoms and dramas A&E 265 ABC FAMILY 311 AL JAZEERA AMERICA 347 AMERICAN HEROES CHANNEL 287 ANIMAL 282 BBCA 264 BEIN 620 BET 329 BIG 10 610 BLOOMBERG 353 BOOM 298 BRAVO 237 BYU TV 374 CARTOON 296 CBS 390 CENTRIC 330 CHILLER 257 CLOO 308 CMT 327 CNBC 355 CNN 202

COMEDY 249 COOK 232 C-SPAN 350 C-SPAN2 351 CW 394 DEST 286 DISCOVERY 278 DISCOVERY FAMILY CHANNEL 294 DISNEY 290 DISNEY JR. 289 DISNEY XD 292 DIY 230 E! 236 ESPN 206 ESPN CLASSIC 614 ESPN2 209 ESPNEWS 207 ESQUIRE 235 ESPNU 208 FANTASY 704 FOOD 231 FOX 398

FOX BUSINESS FOX NEWS FOX SPORTS 1 FOX SPORTS 2 FX FX MOVIE FXX FYI GALA GOLF GSN H2 HALLMARK HGTV HISTORY HLN INVESTIGATION LEARNING LIFETIME LIFETIME MOVIE LINK MLB NETWORK MSNBC

359 360 219 618 248 258 619 266 404 218 233 271 312 229 269 204 285 280 252 253 375 213 356

MTV MTV2 NAT GEO NAT GEO WILD NBATV NBC NBC SPORTS NEWSMAX NFL NETWORK NICK NICK JR. NICK TOON NRB OUTDOOR OVATION OXYGEN PIVOT POP REDZONE RFD TV SCIENCE SEC NETWORK SPIKE

331 333 276 283 216 392 220 349 212 299 301 302 378 606 274 251 267 273 703 345 284 611 241

SPORTSMAN SYFY TBS TEEN NICK TENNIS TNT TRAVEL TRUTV TURNER MOVIE TV LAND TVG UNI SPORTS UNIVISION UP TV USA VH1 VH1 CLASSIC WEA WGN WORD

605 244 247 303 217 245 277 246 256 304 602 625 402 338 242 335 337 362 307 373

Exact channel numbers and programming schedules are subject to change. DIRECTV® service is not available on flights outside the continental United States. The signal may be lost in turbulence and/or if banking of the aircraft is required. DIRECTV® and United Airlines are not responsible for interruptions of service that are beyond our control including, without limitation, acts of nature, power failure or any other cause. ©2013 DIRECTV® Inc. DIRECTV® and the Cyclone Design logo are registered trademarks of DIRECTV® Inc. All other trademarks and service marks are the property of their respective owners.

Group Discount

2off

$

each purchase.

110

110_HEM0815_Direct_TV.indd 110

Traveling with family or friends?

Swipe the same card on three or more screens and receive $2 off each purchase.

AUGUST 2015 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

07/07/2015 15:18

entertainment

directv®

Movies Choose from a lineup of top Hollywood films The best from the box office are yours for the choosing! This month, look to the future with George Clooney in Tomorrowland, catch the team assembled and back at it in Avengers: Age of Ultron, join the chase with Reese Witherspoon in Hot Pursuit and toughen up with Will Ferrell and Kevin Hart in Get Hard. Other options include The Water Diviner, True Story, The Second Best Exotic Marigold Hotel and The Longest Ride.

Tribeca Films Enjoy selections from the Tribeca Film Festival Enjoy selections from the Tribeca Film Festival, including Detachment, Jump, The Sure Thing and The Dam Keeper. United Airlines is proud to be the official airline of the Tribeca Film Festival.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • AUGUST 2015

110_HEM0815_Direct_TV.indd 111

111

07/07/2015 15:18

Š 2015 United Airlines, Inc. All rights reserved. Not available on all ďŹ&#x201A;ights.

SM

Free entertainment streamed directly to your device.

No.00000 UA_Hemi_June_2015_Private_Screening 1pp.indd 1

08/06/2015 09:03

entertainment

personal device entertainment

Enjoy free movies and TV shows Personal device entertainment lets you access a free onboard library of movies and TV shows that you can watch on your own device during the flight.

FREE ACCESS

1

Connect to Wi-Fi network On all devices, enable airplane mode and Wi-Fi, then connect to the “United_Wi-Fi” network.

There is no charge to connect to this network for the ability to stream free onboard entertainment.

Watch on a laptop

2

Open browser

Watch on mobile devices† Have you installed the United app? Download before leaving the gate to access all content.

Go to www.unitedwifi.com Due to a change made by Google, Chrome support is temporarily unavailable.

Please use one of our other supported browsers.

3

Select entertainment

250

Over planes equipped with personal device entertainment

2

Open browser

Personal device entertainment installation progress

Go to www.unitedwifi.com or Open the United app and select Entertainment from the menu

3

A319 100% complete

A320 100% complete

Select entertainment 737-900ER* 0% complete

747-400 100% complete

757* 16% complete

767 25% complete

777 12% complete

Play

Play

You may be prompted to download a plug-in inflight

If you have the latest version of the United app, play any show.

Without the United app, you can play select programs.

787 0% complete

CRJ700/E170/E175 70% complete Excludes aircraft retirements

†Apple or Android devices Note that devices must be used with sound off or with headsets at all times

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • AUGUST 2015

113_HEM0815_PDE+WIFI.indd 113

*Select 737 and 757 aircraft offer only DIRECTV. Please see pages 110–111 for content selections.

113

07/07/2015 15:18

inflight wi-fi

entertainment

700

Over planes equipped with Wi-Fi

Wi-Fi installation progress For the latest information on installation progress and Wi-Fi satellite coverage, visit united.com/Wi-Fi. A319 100% complete

Get online, in flight We know it is important to stay connected while you fly.

For that reason, we are working to equip both our domestic and international aircraft with Wi-Fi.

A320 100% complete

HOW TO CONNECT

1. Once your flight crew says that it’s safe to use large portable electronic devices, connect to the “United_Wi-Fi” network.

737 89% complete Estimated fleet completion: September 2015

2. Open your browser, go to unitedwifi.com.

3. Select an Internet access option and click “Purchase access.”

To determine if your flight offers United Wi-Fi,SM you can go to united.com or United’s mobile app and check the Inflight Amenities tab on the Flight Status & Information page for an upcoming flight.

747-400 100% complete

757 serving p.s.® routes 100% complete

Troubleshooting connectivity issues Check the status icon on the United Wi-Fi home page, unitedwifi.com.

757 serving non-p.s. routes 77% complete Estimated fleet completion: September 2015

767 75% complete Estimated fleet completion: December 2015

If you see a red icon, the aircraft isn’t connected to the Internet yet—please wait.

If you see a green icon, continue to purchase Internet access.

Ensure your device is wireless enabled while in airplane mode. You must also enable JavaScript and cookies.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION 777 99% complete Estimated fleet completion: October 2015

787 39% complete Estimated fleet completion: early 2016

CRJ700/E170/E175 70% complete Estimated fleet completion (excludes aircraft retirements): November 2015

114

113_HEM0815_PDE+WIFI.indd 114

WI-FI ON P.S.® AND UNITED EXPRESS® FLIGHTS

KEEP IN MIND

United currently offers Gogo® Internet service on p.s. Premium Service transcontinental aircraft flying between New York (JFK) and both Los Angeles (LAX) and San Francisco (SFO) as well as select United Express aircraft.

• Video playback, including streaming services such as Neflix, Hulu and HBO GO, is not supported

COVERAGE • Global satellite availability is limited over polar routes and other government areas • Internet coverage will be limited to the continental United States on all 737 and select 757-300 aircraft • Internet coverage will be limited to the continental United States and Canada on two-cabin regional aircraft

• Voice over Internet Protocol (VoIP) and video or audio conferencing is expressly prohibited onboard • If you are using VPN, you will not be able to return to the unitedfwifi.com inflight page. You will need to disconnect VPN to access the inflight site.

PLEASE NOTE United is committed to offering you high quality and dependable Wi-Fi service during your flight.

If we did not meet your expectation, and you would like to request a refund for your Wi-Fi purchase, please visit united.com/refunds to submit a refund request.

AUGUST 2015 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

07/07/2015 15:18

E L E V A T E D. UPGRADED SEAT + UPGRADED ROOM FREE CHECKED BAG + FREE ENHANCED INTERNET PRIORITY CHECK-IN + PRIORITY LATE CHECKOUT *

E V E R Y W H E R E. Double status for our most loyal members. Enhanced air + hotel rewards for all members. united.com/rewardsplus

*Complimentary Premier ® 9TKVEHIW )GSRSQ] 4PYW WIEXMRK TVMSVMX] PEXI GLIGOSYX ERH VSSQ YTKVEHIW EVI WYFNIGX XS EZEMPEFMPMX] 1MPIW EGGVYIH E[EVHW ERH FIRI½ XW issued are subject to change and are subject to the rules of the United MileagePlus ® and Marriott Rewards ® programs. United is not responsible for any products or services of its partners. United and MileagePlus are registered service marks. For complete details about the MileagePlus program, go to www.united.com.

Marriott Rewards program rules apply and can be found at MarriottRewards.com. © 2015 Marriott International, Inc. JW Marriott ® Desert Springs Resort & Spa, CA

No.00000 UA_Hemi_Aug_2015_Elevated_RewardsPlus 1pp.indd 1

08/07/2015 14:33

audio

entertainment

Audio Channels by Aircraft

Vevo brings a library of 100,000 music videos and live concert performances to everyone on the planet who loves music. With our new partnership, watch hundreds of new selections curated exclusively by Vevo, for United, every month. Available on our seatback on-demand systems and via personal device entertainment:* 1980s

Summer Festivals Artists

1990s

Top Country

2000s

Top Latin

Behind the Scenes

Top Videos

Best of Whitney Houston

Vevo Shows

Certified Videos

Alternative

Emerging Artists

Live Performances

*Certain aircraft may feature a selection of the channels listed above.

737 & 757-300

747

Introducing Vevo on United 1

2

3

Movie

Movie

Movie

(English)

(English)

(English)

Today’s hits

Today’s hits

R&B

R&B

Movie (Dubbed) Movie (Dubbed)

4

Classical

Classical

Classical

5

Country

Country

Country

6

Relaxation

Relaxation

Relaxation

7

’70s

’70s

’70s

’80s

’80s

8

From the flight

Your official destination for United gear Browse our selection of bags, tech items, drinkware and more. unitedshop.com

’80s From the flight deck

—

deck or R&B

9

Shop

757 & 767

or Modern rock

Listen to channel 9 for your flight number to hear live communication between the flight deck and FAA air traffic control. This feature, unique to United, may not be available on all flights, including oceanic crossings with limited audio communication. Available at your captain’s discretion.

Movie

Movie

(Dubbed)

(Dubbed)

Modern rock

—

10

Today’s hits

11

Teen pop

12

K-pop

13

J-pop

—

—

14

C-pop

—

—

15

—

—

—

Latin or J-pop on

—

Micronesia flights

Audio Mixes Available on aircraft with seatback on-demand entertainment

’70s

’80s

Modern rock

R&B

Country

Teen pop

Today’s hits

Latin

Classical

Relaxation

Korean pop

Japanese pop

Chinese pop

Spotlight: One-hit wonders

Earbuds are now available for purchase on p.s.® Premium Service flights between JFK and LAX/SFO, and select flights to or from Hawaii Sit back, relax and enjoy our inflight entertainment selections. Ask your flight attendant for details.

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AUGUST 2015 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

07/07/2015 15:19

No.00000 UA_Hemi_Aug_2015_Star_Avianca_Brazil 1pp.indd 1

08/07/2015 14:35

Chef’s Corner Shrimp Dumplings Makes 30 dumplings

Ingredients 1 inch knob of ginger 10 ounces raw shrimp, peeled and deveined 6 green onions, chopped, plus more to add to soy sauce for dipping 5 basil leaves, chopped (optional) 1 clove garlic, peeled and minced

Recipe courtesy of Common Threads, teaching America’s kids to cook for life.

United proudly partners with Common Threads, a U.S. national nonprofit that provides a preventative health program solution in urban areas to children, families and teachers in underserved communities. Their unique, hands-on nutrition education curriculum and programs work to prevent childhood obesity and reverse the trend of non-cookers, getting America’s kids cooking for life. Founded in 2003, Common Threads currently serves 8 major cities: Chicago, LA, NYC, Miami, DC, Austin, New Orleans & Jacksonville.

Directions 1. Remove the skin from the ginger and then grate or mince.

2. Cut the shrimp into small pieces no bigger than the tip of your finger.

3. In a medium bowl, mix the ginger, shrimp, green onions, basil, garlic, soy sauce, and sesame (or vegetable) oil.

4. Put one spoonful of filling in the center of each wonton wrapper.

5. Lightly beat the egg in a measuring cup or small bowl and then mix one tablespoon of cold water — this makes egg wash.

6. Dot the edges of the wonton wrapper with egg wash.

1½ tablespoons soy sauce, plus more to

serve at the table teaspoon sesame oil or vegetable oil 30 wonton wrappers, thawed (about three inches wide) 1 egg and cold water, for sealing dumplings 1

Fold the wrapper in half to form a triangle (if wrapper is square) or a half-moon (if the wrapper is round).

8. Pinch together the edges with your fingers.

Moisten the corners of the dumpling with egg wash or cold water and pinch them together to form a ring.

9. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add a few of the dumplings at a time and cook until they rise to the surface and float (about three minutes).

10. Remove the dumplings from the water and drain on a paper towel. Cool at room temperature. Serve the dumplings on a platter with a side of soy sauce for dipping.

7.

For more information, go to commonthreads.org.

You may also view this recipe by visiting www.hemispheresmagazine.com and downloading the App.

118-122_HEMS_0815.indd 118

07/07/2015 09:38

AUGUST 2015

AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE BETWEEN 5:00 AM AND 9:45 AM ON MOST FLIGHTS SCHEDULED OVER 3.5 HOURS WITHIN NORTH AMERICA INCLUDING THE CARIBBEAN AND LATIN AMERICA (EXCEPT PERU AND VENEZUELA)

latin america

domestic Chicken Chorizo Bistro Scramble $9.99

Ham & Swiss Baguette $8.99

Scrambled eggs, chicken chorizo, roasted poblano peppers and red potatoes, shredded monterey and cheddar cheeses, scallions, and cilantro

AVAILABLE ONLY ON FLIGHTS BETWEEN GUAM AND HONOLULU

Pretzel baguette with ham, swiss cheese, and creamy spread Contains: Milk, soybeans, wheat

Contains: Egg, milk, soybeans

Organic Steel Cut Oatmeal $7.49

Fresh Start Breakfast Selection $6.99

MAY NOT BE AVAILABLE ON FLIGHTS BETWEEN GUAM AND HONOLULU

Fresh fruit, gruyere cheese, and zucchini bread

DEPARTING CARIBBEAN, CENTRAL AMERICA, MEXICO, COLOMBIA AND ECUADOR TO THE UNITED STATES. AVAILABLE BETWEEN 5:00 AM AND 9:45 AM.

Turkey & Cheddar Cheese Baguette $8.99 Baguette with turkey, cheddar cheese, and mustard-mayonnaise spread Contains: Egg, milk, wheat

Cranberries, brown sugar, and butter Contains: Milk, wheat

Contains: Egg, milk, soybeans, tree nuts (walnut), wheat ON GUAM TO HONOLULU

Served with muffin as sweet bread Contains: Egg, milk, soybeans, tree nuts (almond), wheat Vegetarian Option

Only available on select aircraft. May be served warm.

Please ask a flight attendant for details.

Menu and beverage options may vary by flight. We apologize if your preferred choice is not available.

118-122_HEMS_0815.indd 119

07/07/2015 09:39

AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE BETWEEN 9:45 AM AND 8:00 PM ON MOST FLIGHTS SCHEDULED OVER 3.5 HOURS WITHIN NORTH AMERICA INCLUDING THE CARIBBEAN AND LATIN AMERICA (EXCEPT PERU AND VENEZUELA)

domestic

latin america

Artisan Cheese Selection $8.99

DEPARTING CARIBBEAN, CENTRAL AMERICA, MEXICO, COLOMBIA AND ECUADOR TO THE UNITED STATES. AVAILABLE BETWEEN 9:45 AM AND 8:00 PM

Sliced Sirloin Baguette $9.49

Four cheese selection, crackers, grapes, honey, and chocolate Contains: Milk, soybeans, tree nuts (almond), wheat

ENJOY FROM 9:45 AM TO 3:00 PM

Baguette with sliced beef sirloin, blue cheese, caramelized onions, arugula, and creamy spread

Chicken & Cheese Baguette $8.99 Herbed baguette with chicken, cheddar cheese, and spicy mayonnaise

Contains: Egg, milk, soybeans, wheat

Bistro Box $9.49 A half wrap of sriracha waldorf chicken salad, spring mix salad with strawberries, mandarin oranges, and balsamic dressing, finished with red grapes and chocolate

Thai Curry Chicken Bowl $9.99

Contains: Egg, milk, soybeans, tree nuts (walnut and almond), wheat

Contains: Fish (anchovy), soybeans, tree nuts (coconut)

Contains: Egg, milk, wheat

Crispy Chicken Wrap $8.99 Tortilla filled with breaded chicken, tomato salsa, lettuce, and creamy spread

ENJOY FROM 3:00 PM TO 8:00 PM

Chicken breast with creamy curry sauce, mushrooms, edamame, sautéed peppers, and rice

Contains: Milk, wheat

Teriyaki Chicken Salad $8.99 Teriyaki-glazed chicken, lettuce, cucumber, and tomato with mango vinaigrette, and a side of pineapple slaw Contains: Egg, soybean

AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE ALL DAY ON MOST DOMESTIC AND INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS SCHEDULED OVER 2 HOURS (EXCLUDES FLIGHTS: UNITED STATES TO AND FROM PERU AND VENEZUELA AND INTRA-ASIA)

Tapas $8.99 La Panzanella® Rosemary Croccantini® Cracker, Pitted Snack Olives, Roasted Red Pepper Bruschetta, Hummus, Rondelé® Peppercorn Parmesan Cheese Spread, Torino® Olive Bites, Whole Natural Nonpareil Almonds, Brookside® Dark Chocolate with Fruit Flavors

Cream Crackers, White Cheddar Gourmet Cheese Spread, Hormel® Hard Salami, Kettle Potato Chips, M&M’s®, Swedish Fish®, WOW® Baking Company Snickerdoodle Cookie

$3.99

Haribo® GoldBears® Gummi Candy

Pringles® Original Potato Crisps

$3.99

Vegetarian Option

Cracked Pepper Lentil Crackers, Smoked Gouda Gourmet Cheese Spread, Hormel® Genoa Salami, Gluten Free Pretzels, Honey Mustard, HickorySmoked Almonds, Amaretti Del Chiostro

Snackpack $4.49 Graham Crackers, Nutella® Hazelnut Spread, Whole Natural Almonds, Dried Apricots

Classic $7.99

Chex Mix® Traditional Snack Mix

Select $8.99

$3.99

Sheila G’sTM Chocolate Chip Brownie Brittle

Wild Garden® Hummus Dip & Multi Grain Pita Chips

Sweet & Savory Bistro Blend Trail Mix

$3.99

$3.99

$5.29

Only available on select aircraft. May be served warm.

Please ask a flight attendant for details.

Free on flights between the contiguous United States and Africa, Asia, Australia, Europe, and South America (Argentina, Brazil, and Chile only).

118-122_HEMS_0815.indd 120

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beverages

fresh product ingredients

Non-Alcoholic

Bistro on Board products may contain food allergens such as crustacean shellfish, egg, fish, milk, soybean, tree nuts, or wheat.

COMPLIMENTARY AND AVAILABLE ON MOST FLIGHTS

Coca-Cola,® Coke Zero,® Diet Coke®

J

J

Sprite®

J

J

DASANI® Lime Sparkling Water

J

J

J

J

DASANI® Bottled Water Minute Maid®: Apple Juice, Cranberry Apple Juice Cocktail, Orange Juice

Mott’s® Tomato Juice Mr & Mrs T® Bloody Mary Mix Seagram’s®: Ginger Ale, Seltzer Water, Tonic Water

J

Hawaiian Kona Blend Coffee

J

Decaffeinated Coffee

J

Hot Tea

AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE IN UNITED ECONOMY® ON SELECT FLIGHTS Alcohol may be served to customers over 21 only.

Beer Budweiser,® Miller® Lite $6.99

J

Goose IPA and Heineken® $7.99

Spirits $7.99 J

Tito’s Handmade VODKA®

J

Bacardi® Superior Rum

J

J

Canadian Club® Whisky

J

J

Dewar’s® “White Label®” Blended Scotch Whisky

Jack Daniel’s® Tennessee Whiskey Jim Beam® Devil’s Cut® Bourbon Whiskey

Premium Spirits & Liqueurs $8.99 J

Courvoisier® VSOP Fine Champagne Cognac

J

Baileys® Irish Cream

J

Bombay Sapphire® Dry Gin

MOST INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS J

Crown Royal Canadian Whisky

J

Baileys® Irish Cream

J

Bombay Sapphire® Dry Gin

House Wines (187ml) $7.99 AVAIL A BLE ONLY ON DOME S TIC FLIGHT S J

House Red and White

AVAILABLE ONLY ON FLIGHTS BETWEEN HAWAII AND THE MAINLAND UNITED STATES AS WELL AS GUAM J

Sparkling Wine

Premium Wine (375ml) $15.99 AVAILABLE BETWEEN THE CONTIGUOUS UNITED STATES AND MOST INTERNATIONAL CITIES AS WELL AS BETWEEN JFK/SFO AND LAX Beverage vouchers may not be used to obtain premium wines.

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Wente Vineyards Reliz Creek Pinot Noir, Arroyo Seco/Monterey, California Hess Chardonnay, Monterey, California

Specialty Cocktail $9.99 AVAILABLE BETWEEN THE CONTIGUOUS UNITED S TATE S A ND H AWAII J

FRESH START BREAKFAST SELECTION Grand cru cheese: pasteurized cultured milk, salt, enzymes; zucchini bread: sugar, enriched bromated flour bleach (wheat flour, enzyme, niacin, reduced iron, potassium bromate, thiamine mononitate, riboflavin, folic acid), shredded zucchini, eggs, buttermilk (cultured low-fat milk, food starch-modified, carrageenan, salt, nonfat milk, vitamin a palmitate), shredded carrots, soybean oil, walnuts; contains less than 2% of the following: baking soda, salt, cinnamon, natural and artificial flavors; fruit selection. Contains: egg, milk, soybeans, tree nuts (walnut), wheat. Guam to honolulu only: contains: egg, milk, soybeans, tree nuts (almonds), wheat ORGANIC STEEL CUT OATMEAL Oatmeal: water, cooked organic steel cut oats groats, salt; cranberries; brown sugar; butter: sweet cream, salt. Contains: wheat, milk

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SUMMER SELECTIONS Refer to product label for packaged item ingredients

Trader Vic’s® Mai Tai

We are proud to recycle aluminum cans, newspapers, and plastic bottles on eligible flights.

Today’s Bistro on Board menu was produced for you in collaboration with the following Trotter Project-affiliated chefs: Della Gossett, Executive Pastry Chef — Spago, Beverly Hills, CA Priscila Satkoff, Chef/Owner — Salpicon, Chicago, IL Michael Taus, Chef/Owner — Taus Authentic, Chicago, IL Guillermo Tellez-Cruz, Executive Chef — Flora’s Field Kitchen, Los Cabos, Mexico

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CHICKEN CHORIZO BISTRO SCRAMBLE Scrambled eggs: whole eggs, skim milk, soybean oil, modified corn starch, salt, xanthan gum, liquid pepper extract, citric acid, natural and artificial butter flavor, butter (cream, milk), partially hydrogenated soybean and cotton seed oil, lipolyzed butter oil, natural flavors and artificial flavors; potatoes: potatoes, canola oil, olive oil, disodium dihydrogen pyrophosphate (to promote color retention), dextrose; chicken chorizo sausage: chicken thigh, water, salt, spices and spice extractives, paprika, dehydrated red bell peppers, minced onion and garlic, onion and garlic powder, sugar; cheddar monterey jack cheese: cheddar cheese (pasteurized milk, cheese cultures, salt, enzymes, annatto vegetable color), monterey jack cheese (pasteurized milk, cheese cultures, salt, enzymes), potato starch, corn starch, cellulose (anti-caking agents), roasted onions, roasted poblano pepper, roasted green pepper, scallions, cilantro. Contains allergens: eggs, milk, soy HAM AND SWISS BAGUETTE Pretzel baguette: wheat flour (malted barley flour, potassium bromate), water, sugar, salt, shortening, yeast, dough conditioner (wheat flour, datem, dextrose, soybean oil, ascorbic acid, i-cysteine, azodicarbonamide, enzymes); ham: cured with water, salt, sugar, dextrose, sodium phosphates, sodium erythorbate, sodium nitrite; swiss cheese: pasteurized part-skim milk, cheese culture, salt, enzymes; creamy spread: cream cheese (sugar, pasteurized milk, cream [trivial source of fat], carob bean gum, salt, artificial color, xanthan gum, artificial flavor); sour cream (grade a cultured cream). Contains: wheat, soybean, milk ARTISAN CHEESE SELECTION Brie: pasteurized milk and cream, salt, cheese cultures, enzymes, calcium chloride; smoked gouda cheese: pasteurized cultured milk, enzymes, salt, water, sodium phosphate, potassium sorbate (preservative), apo-carotenal (color); cheddar cheese: pasteurized milk, cheese cultures, salt, enzymes, annatto coloring; grand cru cheese: pasteurized cultured milk, salt, enzymes; milk chocolate (sugar, cocoa butter, unsweetened chocolate, skim milk, milk, butteroil, soy lecithin (emulsifier), natural flavor, sugar, corn syrup, palm oil, milk, cocoa butter, heavy cream, rice starch, butter, molasses, invert sugar, soy lecithin (emulsifier), baking soda, almonds, natural flavor, tocopherols (antioxidants), artificial flavor, vanillin (artificial flavor), salt; olive oil & sea salt crackers*. Honey contains: milk, wheat, soybean. Contains: milk, wheat, soybeans, tree nuts (almond) SLICED SIRLOIN BAGUETTE Sweet brioche: wheat flour (malted barley flour, potassium bromate), water, sugar, salt, margarine, egg yolk, yeast, vanilla, egg color, dough conditioner (wheat flour, datem, dextrose, soybean oil, ascorbic acid, i-cysteine, azodicarbonamide, enzymes); roast beef: beef sirloin, kosher salt, black pepper; cheddar cheese: pasteurized milk, cheese cultures, salt, enzymes, annatto coloring; blue cheese crumble: milk, cheese cultures, salt, microbial enzyme, animal enzyme, penicillium roqueforti; cream spread: cream cheese pasteurized milk and cream, whey protein concentrate, salt, carob bean gum, xanthan gum, cheese culture. Blue cheese crumble: milk, cheese cultures, salt, microbial enzyme, animal enzyme, penicillium roqueforti, arugula, caramelized onion: red onion, red balsamic vinaigrette, vegetable oil. Contains: wheat, egg, soybeans, milk BISTRO BOX Chicken breast: water, modified corn starch, seasoning (salt, sugar, onion powder, garlic powder, paprika, black pepper, thyme, savory), vegetable oil (canola oil, extra virgin olive oil), sodium phosphates, chicken base (chicken meat including natural chicken juices, salt, corn maltodextrin, cane sugar, chicken fat, dried onion, natural flavor, turmeric) salt, corn maltodextrin, caramel color; tortilla: enriched flour (wheat flour, malted barley flour, niacin, reduced iron, thiamine mononitrate, riboflavin, folic acid), water, vegetable shortening (interesterfied soybean oil, hydrogenated cottonseed oil), contains less than 2% of each of the following: oat fiber, salt, wheat flour, baking powder (baking soda, sodium aluminum sulfate, calcium carbonate, corn starch, monocalcium phosphate), calcium propionate and potassium sorbate (preservatives), fumaric acid, sugar, distilled monoglycerides, cellulose gum, inactive yeast, guar gum, soy lecithin, maltodextrin, carrageenan, l-cysteine; lettuce; sriracha mayonnaise: mayonnaise (soybean oil, water, whole eggs and egg yolks, vinegar, salt, sugar, lemon juice, calcium disodium edta [used to protect quality], natural flavors), sriracha sauce (chili 70%, water, sugar, garlic, flavor enhancer (e621), stabilizer (e415),citric acid (e330), preservatives (e202), lemon juice); celery; granny smith apples; red grapes; green grapes; black pepper; spring salad: mix greens; strawberries, mandarin oranges, walnuts, feta cheese (pasteurized skim milk, salt, cheese cultures, corn starch, enzymes, color added, vitamin a palmitate, natamycin (natural mold inhibitor*); milk chocolate: sugar, cocoa butter, unsweetened chocolate, skim milk, milk, butteroil, soy lecithin (emulsifier [natural flavor]), sugar, corn syrup, palm oil, milk, cocoa butter, heavy cream, rice starch, butter, molasses, invert sugar, soy lecithin (emulsifier), baking soda, almonds, natural flavor, tocopherols (antioxidants), artificial flavor, vanillin (artificial flavor), salt. Contains: milk, wheat, soybeans, egg, tree nuts (walnut and almond) THAI STYLE CHICKEN & JASMINE RICE Chicken breast; coconut milk (coconut milk, water, guar gum and sodium carboxy methyl cellulose, polysorbate 60, sodium metabisulfite), water; edamame (shelled soybean); shallots; dark brown sugar; red curry paste (red chili pepper, garlic, soybean oil, lemongrass, galangal, salt, shallot, spices, kaffir lime); vegetable oil (canola oil, extra virgin olive oil); tamarind concentrate (tamarind fruit, water, natural corn starch); shiitake mushrooms (contains sulfites); fish sauce (anchovy extract, salt, sugar); lime juice; basil; salt; modified corn starch; paprika; white pepper; xanthan gum; jasmine rice: water jasmine rice, salt; stir fry mixed vegetables: carrots, celery, red bell pepper, yellow bell pepper, thai sweet basil, vegetable oil, salt, black pepper. Contains: tree nuts (coconut), fish (anchovy), soybeans

All flights accept credit/debit cards only To view and print your receipts from inflight purchases made through smartphones used by flight attendants on mainline United® operated flights. Please visit united.com/inflightreceipts

07/07/2015 09:39

elevated dining

international dining INTERNATIONAL ECONOMY

United’s international economy service — inspired by you We are proud to offer our United Economy® service on our long-haul international flights. Using feedback from you, our valued customers, we have designed a thoughtful approach to service meant to elevate the experience throughout your journey.

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FIRST COURSE To start, your three-course meal begins with an appetizer that pairs well with our complimentary beer and wine.

SECOND COURSE The main course features a selection of refreshed entrées with one of our new salads and artisan bread, all served in our newly designed tray table setup.

THIRD COURSE To finish, enjoy a sweet dessert of gelato, rich mousse, or ice cream, based on today’s menu.

COMPLIMENTARY WATER Keep yourself hydrated with an individual bottle of water.

See below article

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SNACK OPTIONS Throughout your flight, enjoy one of our premium snacks for purchase. Please refer to our Choice Menu Snack Shop for our selection on page 120.

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PRE-ARRIVAL Your culinary journey continues with a light snack or entrée, depending on today’s menu, to help you arrive refreshed.

User-friendly dining W

e’ve completely redesigned our international economy food and beverage service, and we’re excited to introduce a new table setting that is optimized for today’s traveler. The newly designed tray better fits most of our tray tables and allows you to continue enjoying the movies and TV shows on your Personal Electronic Device uninterrupted throughout meal service. This is just one of the many ways United is creating a user-friendly airline for you.

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Overseas and in touch

Join us and save with new options for international travel.

Stay connected with Verizon’s new international voice, text and data bundles, now starting at only $15 monthly access when added to a domestic plan. Plus get unlimited access to select Wi-Fi hotspots while traveling outside the U.S. CALL: 1-800-VZW-4BIZ

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CLICK: vzw.com/international

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VISIT: vzw.com/storelocator

Our Surcharges (incl. Fed. Univ. Svc. of 17.1% of interstate & int’l telecom charges (varies quarterly), 18¢ Regulatory & 95¢ Administrative/line/mo. & others by area) are in addition to monthly access & not taxes (details: 1.888.684.1888); gov’t taxes & our surcharges could add 6% – 44% to your bill. Activation/upgrade fee/line: $40. IMPORTANT CONSUMER INFORMATION: Subject to Cust. Agmt, Calling Plan & credit approval.

Up to $350 early termination fee/line. Offers & coverage, varying by svc; see vzw.com. © 2015 Verizon Wireless.

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