United Airlines Hemispheres magazine April 2011 by Ahmed Aamir

APRIL 2011

Hemispheres Three Perfect Days y in

THREE PERFECT DAYS: SAN FRANCISCO // DAVID COPPERFIELD’S ISLAND RETREAT // THE HEMI Q&A WITH KATIE COURIC

SAN FRANCISCO, THE BUSTLING CITY BY THE BAY ABRACADABRA! DAVID COPPERFIELD UNVEILS HIS LUXURIOUS BAHAMIAN RETREAT THE WRESTLER A 400-POUND ESTONIAN TAKES US BEHIND THE SCENES OF JAPAN’S SUMO SCANDAL WE TURN THE TABLES ON CBS EVENING NEWS ANCHOR KATIE COURIC IN THE HEMI Q&A

ACTRESS BRIDGET MOYNAHAN IN ANGUILLA, A SHIPWRECK IN TEXAS AND A REAL-LIFE FARMVILLE IN ITALY.

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Your Golden Angel

No one else can see it, but you know the secret of your Wellendorff ring â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a little golden angel is hidden inside. Read the whole story which inspired us to create this new collection at: www.wellendorff.com/goldenangel

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A true story: â&#x20AC;&#x153;One day a raging fire destroyed everything I possessed, including my beloved jewellery. Only one piece survived the inferno practically undamaged: my Wellendorff necklace adorned with a golden angel. After this fire, jewellery has a completely different meaning for me; because it proves that miracles do happen.â&#x20AC;? Letter from Inga Lasmane of Riga, Latvia.

This letter is the inspiration for our new collection. It came as a welcome reminder of the true value of jewellery: To give pleasure to someone you cherish.

Wellendorff-Boutique San Francisco at Shreve & Co., 200 Post Street, tel. 415.860.4010. For further details or how to find a Wellendorff jeweller near you, please contact Wellendorff, tel. 801-596-1111 or e-mail: usa@wellendorff.com, www.wellendorff.com

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SOMETI MES THE SUCCESS OF A MEETI NG IS ALL I N T H E P R E S E N TAT I O N. Vibrant color, energy and lots to gain from our history, culture and the way we do business. And itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all presented to ensure a successful company meeting experience. This is why more and more leaders in technology, power, manufacturing, medicine and other thriving industries still call San Antonio home. San Antonio is a place where things come together and get done. A place built on ingenuity, a diverse and energized workforce and creativity. Deep. In the heart. Visit the app store on your smartphone, download a QR Code Reader and scan this barcode to see our video.

ÂŠ2011 by San Antonio Convention & Visitors Bureau.

MEETINGS.VISITSANANTONIO.COM

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866-517-7771

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Apr. 64 THE HEMI Q&A:

KATIE COURIC The CBS Evening News anchor reveals her inner Gleek.

BY DAVID CARR

68 THE WRESTLER

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

contents

Embroiled in scandal, Japan’s sumo scene looks to one man: an Estonian named Baruto. BY KEVIN GRAY

74 MAGIC MAN

82 THREE PERFECT DAYS:

BY MIKE GUY // PHOTOGRAPHS BY BRIAN DOBEN

BY MATTHEW THOMPSON // PHOTOGRAPHS BY ERIN KUNKEL

The luxury on David Copperﬁeld’s island is no illusion.

SAN FRANCISCO The City by the Bay mixes history, technology, quirk and international ﬂavor.

Head into the Academy of Sciences to mess around with interactive exhibits and gape at neon-colored aquariums.

P H O T O G R A P H BY E R I N K U N K E L

3PD | P. 82

San Francisco’s Academy of Sciences.

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YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY

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APRIL 2011 | HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

8 Comments 11 CEO Letter A word from Jeff Smisek. 12 Voices A message to ﬂyers.

36 Hero Reﬂect and Strengthen offers support to Boston women. BY LAYLA SCHLACK

14 Connections What’s new at United. 16 Wish You Were Here DISPATCHES 19 Notes From All Over Eating étouffée with a Treme star in New Orleans; checking into a “bus and breakfast” in Israel; a real-life FarmVille in Italy; putting a shipwreck on ice in Texas; enjoying a pint at Dublin’s Jewish museum. DIRECTIONS 27 News Where to stay, what to see, when to go. 31 Goods 34 Whirlwind Five hours in Toronto. BY LAYLA SCHLACK

CULTURE 38 Style Macramé has the fashion world all strung out. BY MIKE ALBO

41 Arts Robbie Robertson, Scream 4 and what else to watch, read and listen to this month. 46 Whereabouts Blue Bloods’ Bridget Moynahan goes from the slopes to sunshine. BY JACQUELINE DETWILER

49 Wheels We take the Volkswagen Touareg Hybrid for a spin in Nice. BY MIKE GUY

50 Industry A twentysomething entrepreneur hopes his relaxation drinks will end the reign of Red Bull. BY ADAM BAER

Macramé necklace by Lorraine Cook. 38

54 Sports An amateur hopes great gear can improve his golf game in Mississippi. BY MIKE GUY

59 Food & Drink Sample Portland, Oregon’s local ﬂavors with Fred Armisen; authentic Thai food; and a spot of tea. BY JAY CHESHES AND LAYLA SCHLACK

63 Artifact A souvenir from the ﬁeld. ENTERTAINMENT AND INFORMATION 101 Movies, Television and Audio Programming 115 Route Maps and Terminal Diagrams 126 Crossword and Sudoku 136 In Transit Who’s sitting next to you?

COVER IMAGE : ERIN KUNKEL

WRITE TO US:

Editorial@hemispheresmagazine.com 68 Jay St., Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 SUBSCRIBE TO HEMISPHERES

For a free subscription to our monthly eMag and to access recent issues, go to HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM DOWNLOAD OUR iPAD APP AT iTUNES.

A sunny spot at the Barcelo Maya Beach Resort.

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FACEBOOK.COM/UNITEDHEMISPHERES

P H O T O S , F R O M T O P : L O R R A I N E C O O K ; C O U R T E SY R A D I S S O N

138 Beverages & Food

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NovaScotia.com/ WelcomeToAtlanticCanada

The highest tides on earth push their way up the Shubenacadie River. Sixteen-foot waves make an awesome playground.

Morgan MacDonald Rafting Guide, Bay of Fundy

Visit us online or call 1 800 565 0000 op 227 to order your travel planning kit.

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24/02/2011 10:17

APRIL 2011 | HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

HEMISPHERES 8

comments

EDITOR IN CHIEF Mike Guy EXECUTIVE EDITOR Joe Keohane SENIOR EDITOR Layla Schlack ASSOCIATE EDITOR Jacqueline Detwiler FASHION EDITOR Nino Bauti EDITORIAL INTERN Andrew O’Reilly ART DIRECTOR Christine Bower-Wright DESIGNER Todd Miller PHOTO EDITOR Moya McAllister

Awards Season While the stars were waiting with bated breath for the Golden Globes and the Oscars early this year, Hemispheres picked up a few awards of its own. In Folio’s Ozzie Awards, we won Best Use of Typography for our October 2009 feature “Street Fighter,” about artist JR. The North American Travel Journalists Association gave Three Perfect Days the nod for Best Travel Series, and Hemispheres got silver and bronze awards in the Local Lifestyle category for “Hive Minded” (August 2010) and “Röckåbilly” (August 2010), respectively. While the awards are a nice acknowledgement of our hard work, we’re more concerned about what you, the readers, have to say. It seems you were just as charmed with Manolo Blahnik (“The Hemi Q&A,” February) as we were. Web commenter Sarah says “I can just hear him say, ‘Don’t you know Sabrina? Love in the Afternoon? Breakfast at Tiffany’s? Nothing. My hands were almost ready to push her.’ He’s so right.” Finally, Hemispheres is proud to announce the launch of our new iPad app. Just go to iTunes and search “Hemispheres.” The best part? It’s free!

WHAT DO YOU THINK? ?

WRITE TO US! Editorial@hemispheresmagazine.com HEMISPHERES MAGAZINE

68 Jay St. Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Jason Gay, Alyssa Giacobbe, Sarah Horne, Edward Lewine, Grant Stoddard, Matthew Thompson CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS Claire Benoist, Sasha Nialla, Graham Roumieu, Oliver Jeffers, Steve Stankiewicz EXECUTIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR Michael Keating U.S. EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Orion Ray-Jones INK, 68 Jay Street, Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 TEL: +1 347-294-1220 FAX: +1 917-591-6247

editorial@hemispheresmagazine.com hemispheresmagazine.com WEBMASTER Salah Lababidi ADVERTISING U.S. GROUP PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Stephen Andrews ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Cindy Taylor ADVERTISING ACCOUNT MANAGERS Shellie Johnson, Kristina Kurz, Danny Litton, David Levy, Robbin Gordon, Francesca Mariana, Caryn Taynis NORTHEAST ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Brian McLaughlin ADVERTISING ACCOUNT MANAGERS Frank Colonno, Scott Stone, Stu Opfer, Paul Gillespie, Karen Couture, Trey Marshall, Dave Madonia WESTERN U.S. ADVERTISING DIRECTOR Robyn Davies ADVERTISING ACCOUNT MANAGERS Dorie Leo, Jack Miller, Jeff Miller, Ernie Mulholland Jr. HAWAII Robert Wiegand EUROPE Angus Urqhart ASIA Jacqueline Ho LATIN AMERICA Alejandro Salas MEXICO Fernando Palacios SOUTH AMERICA Olivier Capoulade CANADA Greg Smith, Richard Brown PRODUCTION MANAGER Joe Massey TEL: +1 678-553-8091

PRODUCTION CONTROLLERS Grace Dinwiddie, Stacy Willis

Contributors

MARKETING AND EVENTS MANAGER Nikkole Wyrick RESEARCH ASSISTANT Melinda Hanna

Ink (sales), Capital Building, 255 East Paces Ferry Road, Suite 400, Atlanta, GA 30305 TEL: +1 888-864-1733 FAX: +1 917-591-6247

JAY CHESHES The New York–based food writer is an anonymous restaurant critic and has written for The New York Times, Travel + Leisure and Saveur. He had fun tagging along on a chitlins shopping spree with chef Andy Ricker (“Lord of the Wings,” page 60) because “I eat offal every chance I get.”

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MIKE GUY The Hemispheres editor in chief says illusionist David Copperﬁeld was a perfect host at Musha Cay (“Magic Man,” page 74), but he refrained from doing any magic. “Someone asked him if he’d do a trick, and he said, ‘Would you ask Pavarotti to hum a few bars?’ Then he winked.” Guy has been humming opera since his return.

ERIN KUNKEL Kunkel is an awardwinning photographer who calls the foggy outerlands of San Francisco (“Three Perfect Days,” page 82) home. When she’s not on assignment, she can be found gardening, surﬁng and daydreaming about sun. She’s currently working on several cookbooks and is headed to Portugal next.

INK CEO Jeffrey O’Rourke COO Hugh Godsal PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Simon Leslie HEMISPHERES is produced monthly by Ink. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions expressed in Hemispheres are not necessarily those of the Publisher or United Airlines, and United Airlines does not accept any responsibility for advertising content. Neither United, its subsidiaries nor afﬁliates guarantees the accuracy, completeness or timeliness of, or otherwise endorses these facts, views, opinions or recommendations, gives investment advice, or advocates the purchase or sale of any security or investment. You should always seek the assistance of a professional for tax and investment advice. Any images are supplied at the owner’s risk. Any mention of United Airlines or the use of United Airlines logo by any advertiser in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company or its products or services by United Airlines.

10/03/2011 16:47

Clearly refined.

The voice-activated nüvi 3790 T – The thinnest navigator in the world. ®

At less than 9 mm thick, it holds the most sophisticated, uniquely personal navigation software ever before available in a nüvi. And its dual-orientation, multi-touch display works no matter how it’s tipped. So, if making an impression is as important as getting to your destination, this is your GPS. Follow the leader. NASDAQ GRMN

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www.garmin.com

02/11/2010 10:03

Who’s merging isn’t nearly as exciting as what’s emerging.

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | APRIL 2011

ceo letter

Spreading Our Wings On behalf of the more than 80,000 professional men and women who make up the United team, thanks for choosing to ﬂy with us today. We’ve now passed the six-month milestone since we closed the merger of Continental and United on October 1, 2010. In that time, we’ve made good progress toward building the world’s leading airline, and I’m proud of what we’ve accomplished so far. For our customers, we’ve focused on providing beneﬁts as quickly as we can, while also taking the time to listen to feedback from you so that we make the right choices as we work to align our products and services. For example, you told us that premium economy seating is important to you, so we’ve announced that we are going to keep Economy Plus on United subsidiary aircraft and roll it out to our Continental subsidiary

WELCOME ABOARD.

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aircraft beginning in 2012. It will take us more than a year to fully deploy Economy Plus across the Continental subsidiary’s fleet, as significant cabin reconfiguration work is required. When we are done, we’ll offer more than 122,000 Economy Plus seats to our customers each day on more than 700 mainline aircraft and on our larger regional aircraft, making us the number one provider of extra legroom economy seating of any airline in the world. For our coworkers, we’ve focused on building a Working Together culture. We want to recognize and reward our employees for making the new United a great place to work and a great airline to fly. Already, we’ve rolled out our on-time bonus program, our perfect attendance program and our 2011 profit-sharing program to ensure that coworkers share in the success they help create by working together.

The six-month mark isn’t the only important date we’re paying attention to this month: On April 6, our United subsidiary celebrates its 85th anniversary. Interestingly, Walter Varney, the man who founded United Airlines’ predecessor, Varney Air Service, back in 1926, also founded another airline in 1934: Varney Speed Lines, which would later become Continental Airlines. So our two airlines share a common past and now will share a common future. Thanks again for ﬂying with us today. We look forward to seeing you onboard again soon.

PRESIDENT AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER UNITED AIRLINES

10/03/2011 14:27

APRIL 2011 | HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

voices Shawn Finley enjoys a respite from storms like the one that buried Newark Liberty International Airport (below) in December.

Storm King SHAWN FINLEY HELPS KEEP UNITED RUNNING SMOOTHLY— EVEN IN THE FACE OF RECORD SNOWSTORMS. // BY BURKE WATSON

AS A MONTANA NATIVE, Shawn Finley knew a thing or two about cold weather long before he joined Continental Airlines in 1991. But working outdoors as a customer service agent on the ramp at Newark Liberty International Airport has taught him even more. This past winter was especially challenging for Finley and the thousands of his coworkers who work outdoors at many hubs and stations of the new United Airlines. From late last year into February, a string of major storms across a wide swath of the U.S. brieﬂy shut down Newark Liberty and many other airports. Newark, which usually gets 20 to 30 inches of snow over the course of an entire winter, received that much in the post-Christmas blizzard alone. By spring, storms had dumped more than 60 inches of snow on the airport. Finley’s duties normally include verifying that the right baggage,

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cargo and mail are loaded on each plane before it departs. But he’s also a member of the Winter Operations Team, which means getting out there in the teeth of a storm to ensure that regular operations can resume as quickly as possible. “Shawn worked long hours with the rest of our Winter Ops Team, clearing snow and ice to get the ramp back into operation,” says Terminal Operations Hub Manager Tom Kerrigan. The work is hard, but Finley and his coworkers know it’s an essential part of getting United back into action and getting our customers to their destinations. When a storm is coming, United moves as many planes as possible to other locations so they won’t get bogged down in snow and the ramp areas will be clear for snow and ice removal. The Winter Operations Team pretreats the surface with an anti-icing ﬂuid before the storm arrives, then works together with the

airport and a vendor to clear away snow during and after the storm. “This winter was abnormally brutal—weekly storms, sometimes twice weekly,” Finley says. “We’re mostly in vehicles, but we may be out there for twelve hours at a time.” It seemed that the winter weather had scarcely passed when spring breakers began ﬂocking to the airports, eager for sunny destinations. “It gets really busy, and it seems like as soon as spring break ends you have people going on summer vacations,” Finley says. “It just goes from one season to the next. But we’ve got a great team ready to make sure our customers get where they want to go, and have a good experience getting there.” Kerrigan calls Finley “one of the Newark ramp aces.” “He handles whatever task he’s given and, when he completes it, he asks, ‘What next?’” Kerrigan says. “I don’t think I’ve ever met an employee who is so focused on getting the job done, yet has so much fun doing it. “And you see that attitude throughout our system—people who take a lot of pride in working together to make United the world’s leading airline.”

10/03/2011 14:28

WIN A BEOSOUND 8 FROM BANG & OLUFSEN AND UNITED HEMISPHERES

Download the NEW United Hemispheres iPad App for your iPad and enter for your chance to win the spectacular new BeoSound 8 from Bang & Olufsen— a docking station for your iPad, iPhone and more.

TO ENTER FOR YOUR CHANCE TO WIN 1 of 5 BeoSound 8 docking stations, please visit this ad after downloading your new United Hemispheres iPad App, and tap the docking station to enter.

To learn more about the BeoSound 8, visit www.bang-olufsen.com/beosound8 NO PURCHASE NECESSARY TO ENTER OR WIN. If you do not have an iPad you may still enter the contest online at www.hemispheresmagazine.com. Contest begins April 1, 2011, and ends June 30, 2011. For complete contest rules and details, visit www.hemispheresmagazine.com/ipad-app.

UNITED HEMISPHERES IPAD APP The new Hemispheres iPad app offers 360 degree rotating images, audio, video, buying links and much more—all the tools you need when planning your next business or leisure trip.

UNITED HEMISPHERES FALL 2010 PROMOTION WINNER

Congratulations to Anu Iyer for submitting the winning story in our NVIDIA ® Optimus™ technology sweepstakes! Ms. Iyer had a unique opportunity to visit NVIDIA headquarters in Santa Clara, California where she was presented with a Toshiba Satellite ® M645 laptop featuring NVIDIA® Optimus™ Technology. NVIDIA would like to thank everyone that submitted their “tragic laptop” stories. To learn more about NVIDIA Optimus and where to buy, please visit www.nvidia.com/optimus.

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APRIL 2011 | HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

connections

This livery debuted in 1971 and was the only one to feature stars alongside the United name.

ASK THE PILOT With Captain Mike Bowers

Here’s to the Next 85 THIS MONTH, UNITED CELEBRATES ITS 85TH BIRTHDAY. ON APRIL 6, 1926, a small Swallow biplane landed to cheering crowds in Nevada, completing the ﬁrst airmail delivery across a harsh, mountainous route owned by aviation pioneer Walter Varney. The occasion marked the start of both of our subsidiary airlines. While other aviation legends saw air travel as a challenge and sport to be conquered, Varney was among the ﬁrst to recognize its business potential. He founded Varney Air Service in 1926 after he acquired the CAM 5 (Pasco, Washington, to Elko, Nevada) airmail contract. He later sold the company to United Aircraft and Transport, which would

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change its name to United Air Lines in 1933. In 1934, Varney and partner Louis Mueller founded Varney Speed Lines, which was sold and renamed Continental Airlines in 1937. Since then, although our airlines have followed different paths, we have faced many of the same challenges and celebrated similar successes over the years. The cyclical nature of our industry has honed our skills for surviving and thriving in tough times as well as good ones. Looking back over the last eight decades, what comes through loud and clear is how well we are positioned to succeed for the next 85.

To celebrate United’s 85th anniversary in 2011, we will paint one of our Airbus 320s in a retro design using one of the liveries United has used over the course of its history. Over a two-week period, more than 11,000 United coworkers cast votes for their favorite livery to give us a winner. While a Boeing 747 is pictured above, the company selected an A320 to celebrate the anniversary since these planes are among the most numerous in the United ﬂeet and ﬂy to virtually every North American airport served by United, giving more coworkers and customers a chance to see the retro jet as it is routed around the network.

A: Aircraft are pressurized by compressing outside air in a device called a “pack.” The pack not only pressurizes the air, but also maintains a comfortable temperature in the cabin, where a constant stream of fresh air is circulated. We maintain the cabin pressure by controlling the amount of air that is vented outside via a device called an outﬂow valve. While the air in the cabin has a higher pressure than outside, it still is not as high as you would experience on the ground. The “altitude” of the cabin rises as you climb, but more slowly than the outside air pressure. On a typical ﬂight at 35,000 feet, the air pressure in the cabin will be the equivalent to an altitude of around 8,000 feet. That is why you may feel some mild pressure in your ears during climbs and descents.

A IR PL AN E PH OT OG RA PH : UNIT ED AIR LIN E S C RE ATI VE S ERVI CE S

Q: How are planes pressurized?

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11/03/2011 10:03

CAFÃ&#x2030; SOCIETY // Soaking in the sun on the Plaza Mayor.

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P H O T O : A N T H O N Y W E B B /AG E F O T O S T O C K

wish you were here

02/03/2011 13:02

SALAMANCA, SPAIN

WANT MORE?

Download Our App.

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11/03/2011 17:27

WHERE GODS BECOME MOUNTAINS

Enrique Castro-MendÃvil / PromPerÃº

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | APRIL 2011

dispatches

NOTES FROM ALL OVER

“I’VE BEEN COMING here since I got back after the storm,” says actor Wendell Pierce, digging into a plate of crawfish etouffée at Bon Ton Café, a Cajun joint located within a trumpet blast of the Mississippi River in New Orleans. TREME AND THE WIRE STAR “I just discovered the place and was like, ‘Wow, it’s been WENDELL PIERCE CASTS FOR CRAWFISH. here this whole time.’ And I loved it. Reminded me of my grandma’s cooking.” ILLUSTRATIONS BY GRAHAM ROUMIEU Not only does Pierce play a thoroughly New Orleans character on the HBO drama Treme—struggling trombonist Antoine Batiste—he actually is a thoroughly New Orleans character. Born and raised here, he still lives in the Big Easy when he’s not working elsewhere. Locals love Treme (the second season premieres this month) for finally “getting” them, for providing an authentic peek into the city’s one-of-a-kind culture. But every time the show comes up, the conversation turns back to food. “That’s one thing I always recognized when I would call home on holidays,” Pierce says, natty in a dark suit, speaking in the silky, booming voice that made him a favorite on The Wire, in which he played Detective Bunk Moreland. “I would be like, ‘How you doing? How’s your Sunday going?’ They’d say, ‘Oh, I’m fine. We had chicken, sweet potatoes...’ and they’d start describing the meal.” The owner of Bon Ton, Wayne Pierce (no relation), comes by to exchange backslaps with Pierce, who’s since moved on to his favorite Bon Ton dish, the crawfish bisque. “Cuisine is an intrinsic part of the culture here. It’s where you see so much of our creativity,” he says, greeting a couple other regulars who stop by to say hello. “You literally can see the mixture of cultures in New Orleans and its history in our cuisine, all the influences from all the different people who have come together. That’s unique, man.”—MIKE SCOTT NEW ORLEANS

Ravin’ Cajun

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02/03/2011 13:09

APRIL 2011 | HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

dispatches

EZUZ, ISRAEL

BUS STOP

The arid stretch of Israel’s Negev Desert bordering Egypt looks more like a moonscape than a vacation destination. There are no sprawling resorts or trendy restaurants, only miles of sand and stars. British filmmaker Nick Breakspear—on hiatus from filming Valerie’s Orchard, a Holocaust survival story, nearby—is staying in a hotel room that doesn’t even have a key. In fact, it’s not even a room. It’s a bus. Breakspear’s digs are part of Exodia, a “bus and breakfast” dreamed up by former scuba instructor Eyal Hirschfeld. Upon retiring, Hirschfeld collected three vehicles—a Tel Aviv city bus, a concertina-style “bendy” bus and a widebodied airport shuttle—and outfitted each with hot water, a kitchenette and a full bathroom. The larger buses, which can sleep a family, even have playrooms

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built around the original steering wheels. Locals, says Hirschfeld, have welcomed the ﬂeet and have even adapted shipping containers and railroad cars for their own similarly recycled digs. “It’s all rather bizarre,” he admits. The resort was successful enough to spark a mini tourism industry in Ezuz. The tiny village, which has produced wine for 2,000 years, now offers an outdoor café, archeological expeditions and camel tours. Back at the bus, Breakspear befriends geckos that reside in the buses’ thatched roofs and even tries his hand at milking the Hirschfeld goats. “I’m not sure what the nannies think of it, but the human kids thought my sad attempt was hilarious,” he says. Meanwhile, off in his own bus, Hirschfeld dreams of adding the ultimate suite: a double-decker London Roadmaster. —CHRISTINE H. O’TOOLE

As is often the case in Piedmont, the Ferraris family farm looks as it did a century ago. Around the central courtyard lean patchedup stucco buildings topped with russet tiles, and in the garden, bamboo poles support tomato plants while cabbages spread their ruffled leaves. But this organic, GMO-free farm is far from a throwback to Nonna’s garden plot. It’s a modern enterprise that manages to blend video games with community-supported agriculture—much like a real-world FarmVille. “The idea we started with was to put together traditional agricultural techniques with innovation and the web,” says Giovanni Ferraris, one of three siblings who started Le Verdure del Mio Orto (The Vegetables from My Garden) on their family’s 60-year-old farm in 2009. Just as in the popular Facebook game and iPhone app, customers sign up at a colorful, cartoony website, choose the size of their plot and click to fill it with any combination of 39 varieties of fruits and vegetables. But unlike the game, everything here is actually planted, harvested and delivered to mainly urban customers. “We wanted to satisfy all those people who are sick and tired of perfect, polished and tasteless vegetables,” Ferraris says. Right now, the family is tending 50 individual plots for customers who pay around $25 a week to have their produce cultivated and delivered. Orto offers insurance, so if a summer thunderstorm wipes out the week’s harvest, customers receive produce from other farms. For an extra fee, subscribers can add herbs or flowers to the delivery, or (this being Italy) accessories to the garden. A mere $26, for instance, buys a wooden sign; for just $53, the Ferraris family will erect a scarecrow customized with your photo to stand guard over your plot. —SARA CLEMENCE

SANTHIÀ, ITALY

Plot Twist

02/03/2011 13:10

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dispatches

COLLEGE STATION, TEXAS

DEEP FREEZE

“It’s the Texas thing— the size and the scale of what we’re doing,” says Texas A&M’s Peter Fix, standing inside the tube of this continent’s biggest freeze dryer, located in an abandoned Air Force base outside Houston. Fix is the head of a project to reconstruct the wreck of La Belle, a ship helmed by famed French explorer Robert de LaSalle that sank in Texas’ Matagorda Bay in 1686, temporarily foiling France’s attempt to establish a colony at the mouth of the Mississippi. The ship was discovered 15 years ago, but the 54-foot-long oak hull has proved especially difﬁcult to preserve. For the last

decade, conservators have been soaking the timbers in a chemical to leech out the water, an expensive process that could take as much as a decade and a half to complete. The freeze dryer, measuring eight feet by 40 feet and costing $500,000, will do the job cheaper and faster by creating an atmosphere so cold that the frozen water inside the timbers sublimates—or skips

straight from ice to gas. If all goes well, the hull will be publicly reassembled and displayed at Bob Bullock’s Texas State History Museum in Austin in 2013. Jim Burseth, the director of archaeology for the Texas Historical Commission, whose team discovered and excavated the hull in 1996, says that the freezedrying will also preserve an important part of both

Texas and American history. When LaSalle’s ship sank, it gave Spain an opening to challenge France for dominance of the region. Without the sinking of La Belle, the culture of Texas would look very different today. “Our hispanic heritage is due directly to the failed French effort to establish a colony here in Texas,” says Burseth. —JORDAN HELLER

From a distance, the can of Guinness doesn’t look any different from countless others in Dublin. But look more closely at the label and you’ll notice a key anomaly: It’s in Hebrew. An artifact on display at Dublin’s Irish Jewish Museum, this can isn’t just “Good for You,” as the old ads promised, it’s kosher, too. While the idea of a Jewish museum in Dublin may be a surprise, Jews in Ireland are long established, if small in number. Some arrived after their expulsion from Portugal in 1496; still more arrived in the 19th century from Eastern Europe. “People are quite surprised and absolutely fascinated by it,” says the museum’s president, Yvonne Altman O’Connor. The museum is housed in a rowhouse that once hosted the Walworth Road Synagogue, which was built in 1916 and served as the spiritual center of the city’s small Jewish population for decades. Inside, volunteers deliver historical yarns in brogues punctuated with the odd Yiddish exclamation, and display cases brim with artifacts and photographs of notables like Robert Briscoe, a Jewish ﬁghter for Irish independence who became lord mayor of Dublin, and Chaim Herzog, the Irish-born former president of Israel, whose father was Ireland’s ﬁrst chief rabbi. There are even old job ads carrying the proviso that no Jews need apply. O’Connor is looking to expand the museum in the coming years—Irish President Mary McAleese recently dropped by to help raise money—but right now, though little, it possesses a rare advantage in this city: It’s one of the few cultural destinations open on Sunday morning.—JON MARCUS

DUBLIN

Stout Hearted

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02/03/2011 13:10

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | APRIL 2011

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news

WHERE TO STAY / WHAT TO SEE / WHEN TO GO

Sun Worship Nestled on the Yucatan Peninsula just south of Cancun, the Barcelo Maya Beach Resort is a swank, sprawling product of the decadelong boom of resorts on Mexico’s Riviera Maya. The Barcelo is home to ﬁve hotels of varying luxury, the most lavish of which is the Maya Palace Deluxe, boasting colonial architecture, breezy arcades, seven à la carte and buffet restaurants and seven swinging bars (including the requisite swim-up bar). There are nearly a dozen pools—the largest ringed with submerged sun loungers—perfect for prepping your summer tan, and if you want to take a dip in the briny Caribbean, visit the nearby Maya Beach Club, a water-sports paradise and home base for exploring the vast stretch of coral just offshore. Viva México. barcelo.com

R2_P027_028HEM_0411_TravelNews.indd 1

HOTEL SPOTLIGHT

08/03/2011 09:49

news

CALENDAR APRIL 2-3 SANTIAGO, CHILE // Lollapalooza celebrates its 20th anniversary with its ﬁrst show outside of North America, featuring Kanye West and the Flaming Lips. lollapalooza.cl

7-9 VAIL, COLORADO // Food tastes better at 10,000 feet—or at least the gourmet spread at the Taste of Vail festival does. tasteofvail.com

10-16 ST. ANDREWS, SCOTLAND // Amateurs get the storied greens all to themselves during St. Andrews Golf Week. standrewsgolfweek.com

PLIÉS AND THANK YOU // The Houston Ballet will move into new digs—the largest professional dance facility in the U.S.—this month. The six-story, 115,000-squarefoot Center for Dance houses studios and performance space where spectators can watch one of the top companies in the country twirl. houstonballet.org A CIP(RIANI) OFF THE OLD BLOCK // Cipriani’s—the

beloved New York City eatery—ventures into the hotel business with this month’s opening of Mr. C, a 138-room property in Los Angeles. The neutral color palette accented by blackand-white ﬁlm stills reminds you that this is Cipriani, but the views from the balconies are pure SoCal. cipriani.com

CHILD’S PLAY

20-MAY 1 NEW YORK // Rub elbows with the stars and catch up on indie movies at Robert De Niro’s Tribeca Film Festival. tribecaﬁlm.com

Traveling with kids can be tough, but a new series of travel guides, kidsGo!, helps families ﬁnd activities that are both suitable for sevento 14-year-olds and fun for Mom and Dad. The ﬁrst run of guides—to Phuket, London, Hong Kong, New York, Bali and Sydney—is available this month. kidsgotravelguides.com

R2_P027_028HEM_0411_TravelNews.indd 2

08/03/2011 09:49

news

CALENDAR APRIL 2-3 SANTIAGO, CHILE // Lollapalooza celebrates its 20th anniversary with its ﬁrst show outside of North America, featuring Kanye West and the Flaming Lips. lollapalooza.cl

7-9 VAIL, COLORADO // Food tastes better at 10,000 feet—or at least the gourmet spread at the Taste of Vail festival does. tasteofvail.com

10-16 ST. ANDREWS, SCOTLAND // Amateurs get the storied greens all to themselves during St. Andrews Golf Week. standrewsgolfweek.com

CHILD’S PLAY

20-MAY 1 NEW YORK // Rub elbows with the stars and catch up on indie movies at Robert De Niro’s Tribeca Film Festival. tribecaﬁlm.com

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | APRIL 2011

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What a Croc T. ANTHONY’S ALLIGATOR CALF DUFFEL HAS STYLE IN THE BAG. BY JACQUELINE DETWILER // PHOTOGRAPHS BY CLAIRE BENOIST

Trends may come and go (know anyone who purchased a fanny pack recently?), but if we’ve learned anything from the staying power of Michael Jackson jackets and wingtip shoes, it’s this: Leather is forever. Take T. Anthony’s alligator calf duffel: Crafted by a company that’s outﬁtted everyone from Ronald Reagan to Elton John, the brown leather and nickel creation is intended to outlast messenger bags, skinny jeans and even Lady Gaga in an egg. BEAST OF BURDEN

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APRIL 2011 | HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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APRIL 2011 | HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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There are some museums you can get lost in for days, and the Royal Ontario Museum (Bloor Street West and Avenue Road; rom.on.ca) is one of them. Since you’re short on time, settle for a quick spin through the dinosaur galleries or the Ming Tomb in the Gallery of Chinese Architecture. (0:40) Imelda Marcos had nothing on the Bata Shoe Museum (327 Bloor St. W.; batashoemuseum.ca), which has more than 10,000 pairs of footwear, some of which are over 4,500 years old. (Sorry, they’re not for sale.) (1:10) Unlike the shoe museum, you can shop at Kensington Market (kensington-market.ca), an indooroutdoor repository of handmade crafts and foods from around the world. (2:00) Get a taste of Toronto’s impressive Chinatown at Lai Wah Heen (108 Chestnut St.; laiwahheen.com), a high-end dim sum house. Don’t miss the steamed wagyu dumplings or the crystal purse with shredded duck. (2:40) The easiest way to see the whole city? Ride to the top of the CN Tower (301 Front St. W.; cntower.ca), the tallest free-standing structure in the Western Hemisphere. If you’re feeling bold, lie down on the glass floor of the observation deck—1,122 feet up. (3:20) Now go calm your nerves with a cold one. Tour Steam Whistle Brewing (255 Bremner Blvd.; steamwhistle.ca) and sample the strong pilsner, which is available only in Canada. (3:50) When you’re in Toronto, the Hockey Hall of Fame (30 Yonge St.; hhof.com) is a mandatory stop. Take a gander at the Stanley Cup and go out onto the ice for a quick shoot-out. (4:30) Bid a sweet farewell to this city with a visit to SOMA Chocolatemaker (55 Mill St.; somachocolate.com), a confectioner housed in a former distillery where you can watch the goodies being made. Pick up a fleur de sel caramel and a Douglas fir truffle for the road. (5:00)

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APRIL 2011 | HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

Wonder Women

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BOSTON-BASED REFLECT AND STRENGTHEN IS CREATING A GRASSROOTS MOVEMENT FOR THOSE IN NEED. // BY LAYLA SCHLACK // PHOTOGRAPH BY ERNESTO ARROYO WHO: ALEXIA LOMON, KRISTINE FRAZIER, MALLORY HANORA, ROSELYN BERRY (clockwise from top right) MISSION: To support working-class women in the Boston area struggling with family, financial and emotional issues. In addition to the five lead advisers (Cindy Printemps is not pictured), Reflect & Strengthen comprises a core group of 36 members, ages 14 to 30, who come together to help one another and other women in their communities. In addition to leadership development programs with professionals in various fields, the group holds multisession programming in the city’s high schools, works with girls in the juvenile justice system and has a street theater troupe. MOTIVATION: “We came together in 2001 in a really organic way,” says Berry, who cofounded the group with seven workingclass friends. “We talked a lot about how the city’s institutions weren’t meeting our needs. The issues we were facing were interconnected, so our response had to be holistic.” A PLACE TO CALL HOME: “We’d love to one day have a house or a building,” Lomon says. “People could stay there if they needed to, and we could have meeting space, maybe even commercial space. That’s the dream.”

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24/02/2011 10:48

style

Knotty and Nice ONCE A SUMMER CAMP STANDBY, MACRAMÉ IS FASHION’S NEXT BIG THING. // BY MIKE ALBO “MACRAMANIA IS SWEEPING THE COUNTRY,” reads one

of my mom’s macramé manuals from the ’70s. Back then, it was all about making planters, wall hangings and funky belts. Though all the rage during the Carter administration, the practice actually dates back to Arab cultures in the 13th century (the word is derived from the Arabic migramah, an ornamental fringe or veil) and was picked up by sailors in the 19th century. Now macramé is back, this time on runways and in haute hotels. In the 2011 spring/summer fashion shows, Julien Macdonald sent a beautiful white macramé minidress down the runway, and Catherine Malandrino showed sandals with intricate plaits winding up the leg. Last year, when he was commissioned to create a macramé wall

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11/03/2011 19:28

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | APRIL 2011

P H O T O S P R OV I D E D BY J U L I E N M AC D O NA L D ; CAT H E R I N E M A L A N D R I N O ; T H E AC E H O T E L

“I searched ‘woven jewelry’ and stumbled on macramé. It was like opening a Christmas present.”

ROPE TRICK Michael Schmidt’s installation at the Ace Hotel; opposite, Julien

Macdonald’s macramé minidress and Catherine Malandrino’s sandals.

hanging in the lobby of the new Ace Hotel in Palm Springs, L.A. artist and designer Michael Schmidt wanted to shake things up. “I suggested we take the seventies macramé idea further by incorporating nautical and Japanese rope-knotting techniques,” he says. The curtain hangs from assorted pieces of antique hardware, ship’s pulleys and

butcher’s hooks. The result is a loopy, drapey work that transforms the lobby. “Of all the things I make and exhibit… my micro macramé seems to stop people in their tracks,” says jewelry designer Lorraine Cook, who uses the technique with bright colors and beads to create intricate, tribal-looking necklaces. “Why? I have no idea, other

than inside all of us is a primal love of color, threads and beads.” Macramé’s current popularity makes sense with the resurgence of crafts, but it’s also a sign of our interconnected, globalized culture. Cook, who lives in Queensland, Australia, became interested in the art form while Googling. “I searched ‘woven jewelry’ and stumbled on macramé…. It was like opening a Christmas present.” MIKE ALBO’s favorite ’70s macramé manual is Create a Happening with Basic Knots.

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RIU is not responsible for errors or omissions published in the contents of this publication. Properties of Cabo San Lucas do not include water sports.

No.31570_RIU_Hotels 1pp.indd 1

24/02/2011 09:57

CULTURE | APRIL 2011

arts

The Big Ten WHAT TO WATCH, READ AND LISTEN TO THIS MONTH. ANIMAL HOUSES • Morgan Freeman could narrate a documentary about sea snails and we’d still watch it. In Born to Be Wild, he chronicles the lives of Dr. Birute Mary Galdikas and Dame Daphne Sheldrick, rescuers who rehabilitate orphaned elephants and orangutans—which are, by the way, much, much cuter than sea snails. APRIL 8 1

ENDLESS COMMUTE • Director Duncan Jones (Moon) teams up with Jake Gyllenhaal for a new sci-ﬁ thriller, Source Code. Gyllenhaal plays a soldier trapped in the body of a civilian, reliving the last eight minutes of the man’s life before a train disaster. Seemingly stuck on loop and falling in love, the soldier tries to prevent the tragedy. APRIL 1 2

P H O T O S : D R E W F E L L M A N; J O NAT H A N W E N K © S U M M I T; M OYA M CA L L I S T E R ; C O M E DY C E N T R A L

5 3 4 END OF CIVILITY • April marks the 150th anniversary of the start of the Civil War, and there are two books, America Aﬂame by David Goldﬁeld, and 1861: The Civil War Awakening by Adam Goodheart, to mark it. Each book offers a new perspective on the war and the long Reconstruction that followed. OUT THIS MONTH 3

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ARRESTED DEVELOPMENT • In the Office Space–esque new Comedy Central sitcom Workaholics, three friends bumble through their postcollegiate life as telemarketers. From reflective chats on their roof to the time they camp out in their office, the guys show a kind of touching naivete on top of their hilarity. APRIL 6 4

HARDCORE TROUBADOUR • Steve Earle is having a big spring. I’ll Never Get Out of This World Alive (his ﬁrst collection of originals since 2007’s Grammy-winning Washington Square Serenade) comes out this month—not to be confused with his ﬁrst novel, by the same name, due out in May. APRIL 26, MAY 12 5

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11/03/2011 17:28

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11/03/2011 20:22

arts 6 GO FISH • When Mark Kurlansky wrote the best-selling Cod: A Biography of the Fish That Changed the World, he told the history of the United States through the prism of this humble, once-ubiquitous ﬁsh. His latest graphic novel, World Without Fish, looks into an all too real near future when overﬁshing destroys the ocean. OUT NOW 6

RHYMIN’ SIMON • Paul Simon continues to prove that he is, indeed, viable without Art Garfunkel. So Beautiful or So What merges styles from his previous few releases—bringing together world music, electronica, pop, folk and even chamber music and overlaying it with Simon’s trademark lyrical patter. APRIL 12 7

OLD YELLER • In the 11 years since the Scream trilogy ﬁnally wrapped, the rules of horror movies have changed immensely. No matter: The newest installment, Scream 4, reunites the remaining original cast members for a postmodern meditation on the art of a good scare. APRIL 15 8

Band Leader ROCK LEGEND ROBBIE ROBERTSON FINALLY GETS PERSONAL. BY JOE KEOHANE

and led The Band, been inducted into the Rock & Roll Hall of Fame, and for nearly two decades lived a life of excess (including a particularly debauched stint as Martin Scorsese’s roommate), but after more than 50 years in the business, Robbie Robertson is in no hurry to do anything. “I’m at a stage now where if I’ve got a good idea, then I’ll do it, but I’m not forcing myself to make records. I just do what I like.” His latest solo album, How to Become Clairvoyant, came together gradually. It started years ago as a jam session with his old friend Eric Clapton and in time grew to include guitarists Tom Morello of Rage Against the Machine and Robert Randolph. “They are wizards,” he says. “It’s almost like a different instrument in their hands.” Lyrically, it’s his most personal effort to date. “I’ve always felt self-conscious about saying, ‘Well everything on this record is about me,’” he says. But for this one, Robertson delves into his hopeful early days on the road, his years of substance abuse and his break with The Band in 1976. “Things are far enough behind me that I can now talk about them without feeling uncomfortable.” Robertson may have been hesitant to tell his story before, but the spigot is open now. He just signed a deal to write his autobiography. “I guess I’m warming up to the idea,” he says. “I’m gonna get a cabin in the woods and go write a book.”

HE HAS BACKED BOB DYLAN

P H O T O S : K E V I N M A Z U R /G E T T Y I M AG E S ; K E V I N M A Z U R ( PAU L S I M O N )

HISTORICAL READING • Get to know Los Angeles and San Francisco as they were in the 1930s, with Works Progress Administration–authored travel guides. The City of Angels and The City by the Bay were projects of the WPA-sponsored National Writers Project. Pick up the reprints to travel back in time. APRIL 5 9

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LET’S GET DIGITAL • If you want your MTV sans TV, the network has heeded your call. The first-ever digital music awards, the OMAs, will be available only online, so fire up your iPad or smartphone to find out who wins for best app and best tweet, among other categories. APRIL 28 10

02/03/2011 16:51

SPECIAL FEATURE

Royal Seal of Approval WHY NOT GIVE YOUR BUSINESS A BOOST WITH THE PRESTIGE OF A ROYAL WARRANT? WE MAY LIVE in an age of self-made billionaires and all the technology we devise, but even in the 21st Century a Royal Warrant is still the most highly sought-after mark of recognition, one that cannot be bought or sold, to companies who conduct business with the Royal Family. Royal Warrants signify that a company has supplied goods or services for at least five years to HM The Queen, HRH The Duke of Edinburgh or HRH The Prince of Wales. There are approximately 850 Royal Warrant Holders representing a huge cross-section of trade and industry. They range from traditional craftspeople to global and multinational firms operating on the cutting edge of technology - all sharing the same essential qualities through their provision of excellent service, reliability, trustworthiness and quality products. Although a Royal Warrant is held for five years, it is under review after four years, which means that a company must maintain their standard of service, consistency and reliability to retain the Royal Warrant. This process not only establishes a sound working relationship between all parties, but also ensures that the right organization remains a Royal Warrant

Royal Advertorial p044-045.indd 2

Holder. Warrants are granted to named individuals, grantees, who must personally ensure the Warrant is used correctly. Warrant Holders are granted permission to display proudly the relevant Royal Arms and the legend ‘By Appointment’ on their products, premises, stationery, vehicles, and advertising. All of which gives the Holders a sense of accomplishment and prestige. Those awarded the Royal Warrant of Appointment by HRH The Prince of Wales have for many years had to comply with an environmental and sustainability audit. This recently has been extended to all companies applying for a Royal Warrant. As of 2012, all Royal Warrant Holders, both existing and new will be required to complete the audit. While this will predominantly cover environmental and sustainability issues, companies will still need to demonstrate that they have a policy for corporate social responsibility to obtain or maintain a Royal Warrant. Although Warrant Holders are situated throughout the UK, there are also overseas companies that hold Royal Warrants. In the United States and the Far East the prestige of holding a Royal Warrant is recognized, and the perception is that the Royal Family would not allow a company to use their Royal Arms unless that company was a reputable company. As in many spheres, it is easier to be appreciated abroad than in one’s own country, and in the UK some consider it to be elitist and therefore, by association, expensive. In reality, this could not be farther from the truth, as all Warrant holding companies represent excellent value for the quality services and products they supply. They achieved their reputation by serving the public before providing goods and services to the Royal Households, and the breadth and diversity of their customer base remains important to them. While the Royal Warrant does not signify that a company is the best in its industry, it does represent that the Royal Household has selected and prefers to use their goods or services.

11/03/2011 19:32

To complement the relationship between The Royal Warrant Holders Association and the Royal Family, the association invited four scholars from the Queen Elizabeth Scholarship Trust to create a special wedding gift for Prince William and Kate Middleton. The unique gift will be a goblet in a handcrafted chest illuminated by the design and work of silversmith Rod Kelly. The gift will represent crafts used by many who hold Royal Warrants and include a tassel with cord, masonry, quill pen, mechanics, design, tailoring, and images that cover stationery. Jon Beer, a furniture designer, made the exquisite box using wood reclaimed from Hurricane Felix, which ripped through Nicaragua in September 2007. Davina Chapman, an accomplished calligrapher, put it in context and lovingly scripted the details on this vellum. Rupert Alexander, one of the QEST scholars, completed a portrait of H.M. The Queen in 2010, to much international acclaim, and selected the image to create the card. The combination of modern technology and centuries of old skill will clearly make this a unique, one of a kind gift. Whatever their size or specialization, Warrant Holders are united by their commitment to the highest standards of service and excellence as well as the prestige they carry for being a Royal Warrant Holder.

Royal Advertorial p044-045.indd 3

11/03/2011 19:32

APRIL 2011 | HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

whereabouts

The Places I Go: Bridget Moynahan THE HARDWORKING STAR OF CBS’S BLUE BLOODS NEVER STOPS MOVING, EVEN ON VACATION. “I don’t really have a standard New Year’s Eve thing, but this year my boyfriend, McG, and I got in a little bit of ski and sun. We spent a couple days on the slopes in Mammoth, California, then ﬂew to Anguilla. We stayed at the Viceroy hotel there, which is unbelievably chic, but I’m not somebody who can just lie in the sun all day—in fact, I didn’t do that once. I was always trying to do something. We played tennis every single day and golfed next door at Temenos Golf Course. “That was my ﬁrst time playing since I had a kid, so I was a little rusty, but I’m not a stressed-out golfer. If my drive goes wild, I don’t mind teeing up another one. There were rain showers and rainbows and wild dogs running on the course. We didn’t take it that seriously. “For dinner, we went to Trattoria Tramonto, this little Italian restaurant right on the beach that has been there forever. It’s a romantic, unassuming spot, and it was just wonderful to be on the ocean. It couldn’t have been more perfect. “I’m not sure where we’ll go next year, but I got a really sexy pair of skis for Christmas…”

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P H O T O : M A R K M A I N Z /G E T T Y I M AG E S F O R A F I

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07/03/2011 09:55

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11/03/2011 17:50

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11/03/2011 16:11

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | APRIL 2011

wheels

Power to the People

P H O T O : C O U R T E SY VO L K WAG E N

VW WANTS TO BE THE BIGGEST CARMAKER IN THE WORLD, AND THE 2011 TOUAREG HYBRID WILL LEAD THE CHARGE. // BY MIKE GUY ON A ROAD HIGH ABOVE the tiny village of Eze Bord de Mer, midway between Monaco to the west and Nice to the east, there is a terrible traffic jam. This isn’t uncommon in this ancient and densely settled corner of the world, where celebrities and royalty compete ferociously for the attention of paparazzi, and tourists come to gawk at the twinkling turquoise Mediterranean Sea and maybe even at Bono, the U2 crooner who lives somewhere along the village strand. My 2011 Volkswagen Touareg Hybrid—the first hybrid SUV from VW’s well-stocked stable—has shut itself down as it idles in front of a world-famous perfumery called Fragonard. The new Touareg is the second generation of VW’s signature SUV, and the platform has been completely rebuilt for 2011. That means significantly refined styling of the exterior: The headlights are now bedazzled with LEDs that look

R2_P49HEM0411Wheels.indd 1

much lower emissions rating. like sparkly eyeliner after sunset; When the traffic finally gets moving, the grille has two sexy, low-slung air intakes, and the rear haunches are now I spin up into the mountains and break free from the pack. On downhills, the more pronounced, giving this onceTouareg shows off part of what makes mild 5,135-pounder a slightly more this brilliant hybrid combo the best aggressive stance. on the road: I let up slightly on the For the interior the engineers of throttle at 60 mph and the gas engine Wolfsburg have cribbed numerous shuts down. With the windows up, I details from the Cayenne, made by hear only the breeze and the VW’s sister shop, Porsche. buzzing of insects coming from The seats—particularly in the WANT MORE? Download the roadside brush. Five miles back—are roomy and fully Our App. of scrub pines whiz past before adjustable, the navigation the gas engine kicks in, when I come to system quick and bright, and the a pronounced uphill stretch. sunroof is a full 350 percent bigger Last year, VW announced to the than its predecessor. world that it plans to become the But the most significant upgrade to world’s largest automaker by 2014. the Touareg is the dazzling new hybrid That means that it needs to beat out engine, a seductive coupling of the the top manufacturers in the United same 334-horsepower V-6 found in the States—a tall order—and it needs the Audi S4 with a 46-horsepower electric Touareg to play a major role in the motor. The result is a powerplant that uprising. While hybrids lose out to can run on electricity alone at speeds diesels here in the sunny hills of France, up to 99 mph. And while it isn’t as VW is hoping to sell plenty overseas. efficient as the diesel TDI (25 mpg in The question is, are Americans buying? the city, versus the diesel’s 29), it has a

11/03/2011 17:29

APRIL 2011 | HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

industry

The Big Chill AS AMERICANS DRINK WAY TOO MANY ENERGY DRINKS, A 22-YEAR-OLD SURFER CATCHES THE NEXT WAVE: A BEVERAGE THAT CALMS YOU DOWN. BY ADAM BAER

experiences scenes more distressing g than tanned, beautiful people wandering peacefully through aisless of organic produce. On a recent Monday afternoon, however, an iratee man in a Panama hat paces at the store’s customer-service counter, unsettling everyone’s Zen. “Please leave the store, sir,” a manager instructs him. “We’re calling security.” y.” Nearby stands Max Baumann, a tall, blond, blue-eyed 22-year-old with a lean surfer’s build. Baumann turns to the man, smiles easily, and says, “Just chill, man. Maybe after a few sips of this?” He’s holding a can of a supplement-fortiﬁed “relaxation beverage” called, naturally, Just Chill. As if under a spell, the man calms down, and the mild-mannered d Baumann goes about his business. Today his business is asking the

CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD Just Chill

creator Max Baumann says relax.

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P H O T O : B R O O K K E E GA N

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07/03/2011 10:15

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13/01/2011 20:46

APRIL 2011 | HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

industry

attendant to restock the shelves with more Just Chill, a lightly carbonated peach and citrus drink dosed with 100 milligrams of the FDA-approved tealeaf compound L-theanine, which has been shown in clinical studies to reduce anxiety while keeping people attentive. A Malibu, California, native, Baumann is the creator of the soothing beverage and the CEO of The Chill Group, the young company that manufactures it. His is the latest in a recent surge of relaxation drinks to hit the market, presenting themselves to an overstimulated public as the antidote to the fast-expanding universe of energy drinks, which right now comprise a multibillion dollar global industry, led by the mighty Red Bull and the wildly popular Four Loko, the first version of which combined alcohol and caffeine, inciting various state bans and an FDA ruling last November declaring it unsafe. Baumann got the idea for Just Chill during a short stint at Santa Barbara City College, which he did following a year of surfing in Indonesia, the Maldives and Australia. “As you travel, you see so many stressed-out people,” Baumann says, cruising along the scenic Pacific Coast Highway in his Toyota pickup truck. “I just looked around and realized people don’t need more energy drinks or caffeine; they need something to chill them out. Stress, nervousness and anxiety do not help you, as we’ve seen with all that jitter juice and snooze booze on the market.” He started researching natural substances that could serve as the active ingredient in a drink intended to keep you calm and focused, and he discovered L-theanine, which proved effective in research settings. Baumann presented the drink concept to his marketing class and got praise from the teacher, who has since put him on

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MILES TO GO BEFORE WE RELAX In the U.S., revenues of relaxation drink makers is expected to grow by a whopping

51.4% this year, to

$73.7 million which (though very strong) will amount to just

3.7% of energy drink revenues over the same period. Expected total:

$1.99 billion SOURCE: IBISWorld

the school’s marketing advisory board. He then took his idea to the beverage consultancy Power Brands, where a “food tech” created the proprietary blend, combining L-theanine with lemongrass, ginseng and gingko, as well as B and C vitamins, zinc, natural fruit extracts and a few grams of natural sugar. “Our active [ingredient] is found naturally in green tea, and, unlike other drinkmakers, we don’t use melatonin or kava, which may be bad for your liver,” Baumann says, while cruising through the rusticchic Malibu neighborhood where he grew up next door to actor David Duchovny and across the street from Owen Wilson. L-theanine, Baumann explains, increases alpha brain waves, which relax you, and dopamine, the feel-good brain chemical. Baumann formed The Chill Group

in 2009 with Russell Fager, Jeff King and Robert Young, a wealthy software entrepreneur who had been mentoring him as a favor to his father, Peter Baumann, a musician who also launched the record label that introduced the world to Yanni. Getting the drink off the ground took around $250,000, which Baumann drew from savings and hustled from friends and family. “I know that I’m really fortunate to have been born into a position where I could raise the money to kick-start the business,” Baumann says earnestly. “At the same time, my father is pretty stern about how much equity he can help me raise. The next hurdle is to get venture capital to make Just Chill a national brand.” Just over a year old, Just Chill is already available in 500 stores, mostly in Southern California, although also in Florida and Oklahoma. The company has made about a quarter of a million dollars in revenue (about 25 cents on each $1.69 to $1.99 can), and has had to hire some 15 employees to handle the San Diego, Los Angeles and Santa Barbara markets. Baumann is currently eyeing an expansion of Just Chill into a full-ﬂedged lifestyle brand, complete with merchandise and even celebrity endorsements. He may not have to go far for the latter. “It’s a funny story,” Baumann says. “The ﬁrst person to try Just Chill was Owen Wilson. I’d invited him over to use our beach access. He showed up with his brother Luke, another guy, two hot models and a dog. He really loved the drink. I was hoping he could be an endorser. We could call him Owen Chill-son. But I’m not sure he’d be into that. On the other hand, he is pretty mellow…” Los Angeles–based writer ADAM BAER’s favorite “relaxation beverage” is a revolutionary product called vodka.

07/03/2011 10:16

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08/03/2011 11:22

APRIL 2011 | HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

sports

BUNKER BUSTER The 18th hole at Fallen

Oak is fraught with peril.

If It Ain’t Broke, It Ain’t Golf ONE (VERY) AMATEUR GOLFER TRAVELS TO MISSISSIPPI’S GULF COAST TO SEE IF THE SPORT’S BEST NEW TECHNOLOGY CAN IMPROVE HIS GAME. BY MIKE GUY

THE DAY STARTS AS MOST GREAT DAYS DO:

with a fine pair of shoes. In this case, stylish Ecco Street spikeless shoes designed by Fred Couples. They are, according to Ecco, the most advanced shoes in the golf world. As I glide comfortably on the Eccos to the locker at Fallen Oak, just outside Biloxi, Mississippi, to collect a set of clubs

R1_P054_057HEM0411Sports.indd 1

that include some of this year’s other radical advancements in golf tech, it occurs to me that no matter what shoes I wear or clubs I swing or type of tee I set my ball on, I’ll always be a duffer. The problems with my game, I believe, come from deep inside me, far beyond the reach of technology or even instruction.

It’s early spring on the Gulf Coast, and the weather is a crisp 65 degrees. On the ﬁrst tee, Fallen Oak’s general manager, Dave Stinson, an affable (and, it turns outs, very patient) scratch golfer, remarks on the contents of the golf bag: a TaylorMade R11 driver, a Nike SQ Machspeed driver, a TaylorMade putter and a Bushnell

07/03/2011 10:18

We gave Terri Dome a future. That is what we do.

Terri Dome

Terri Dome, a successful international marketing executive for a major movie studio in California, had it all, until her heart was ravaged by the effects of treatments she had received years before for a childhood cancer. She came to the Texas Heart Institute for help. We used the latest advancement in treatments and technology— many of which were developed here—and our doctors’ vast knowledge and experience. In February 2009, Terri had a heart transplant. “When I first came, I was very nervous, very scared and very angry: I was in full-blown denial,” says Terri. “The moment I met my doctors I knew I would be alright. I was safe. I was in good hands.” Terri is now making the most of her new life, reaching out to counsel other women heart patients. She, like countless others we have helped, is living the future she did not have. No wonder U.S. News & World Report has ranked us among the top 10 heart centers for 20 consecutive years.

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05/01/2011 10:06

APRIL 2011 | HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

TOOLS OF THE TRADE From

Hybrid Laser/GPS rangefinder, which already has the contours and greens of the Tom Fazio–designed Fallen Oak programmed into it. Taking the R11 from the bag, I gaze out over the rolling first hole of this breathtaking course, a gnarly parfive dogleg with a lake on the left and a stream to the right, and a shiver of dread passes through me. I need to knock a 275-yard drive, and it needs to be straight. I consider myself a typical golfer—I play 20 rounds a year and feel grateful when I shoot 10 over par. To this day, when I golf with my father, he points out that I was born with a natural swing. Standing atop the claustrophobic second tee-box at our local course in York Harbor, Maine, my dad would crow to our playing partners, “The kid was born with a natural swing.” Then he’d add, as he shook his head at his own scorecard: “I’m not sure where he got it from.” It’s true. I was born with a swing

R1_P054_057HEM0411Sports.indd 2

as graceful as Fred Astaire, but it grows weaker by the year. My swing, that fluid series of wellexecuted movements that my father was so proud of, has grown into a nightmarish series of spasms. Of course, the makers of golf equipment understand this aspect of the sport all too well. They have teams working overnight in brightly

placed on the dash of the golf cart, but I’ve got more pressing issues in my game right now than precise distance. For a weekend duffer like me, the TaylorMade R11 is a beautiful Band-Aid. Released this year, it’s the latest version of the revolutionary R-series driver. Like most modern drivers, it’s so large it sometimes feels as though you’re swinging a train

Despite the best efforts of the golfing industry, there’s probably nothing that can fix my slice. lit laboratories concocting devices that will somehow bandage over the deep wounds in a player’s game. There are the clubs that profess to cure everything from a weak swing to a strong swing. There are putters in myriad configurations, and there are balls that improve distance, loft, “playability.” There are also things like the Bushnell rangefinder, which I’ve

caboose, though in fact it’s light as a feather. It’s equipped with the same “Moveable Weight Technology,” or MWT, that was introduced in the R7. Basically, MWT is a set of small “discretionary” weights that can be placed in strategically positioned sockets on the driver to change the characteristics of the club. Put more weight in the heel, and the club

P H O T O S , P R E V I O U S PAG E : C O U R T E SY FA L L E N OA K ; T H I S PAG E , C O U R T E SY O F B I L LY CA S P E R G O L F, N I K E ,TAY L O R M A D E , B U S H N E L L

left, the Ecco Street, Nike SQ Machspeed, TaylorMade R11 and Rossa Ghost, and the Bushnell GPS rangeﬁnder.

07/03/2011 10:18

sports

rotates faster, theoretically reducing the severity of a slice. Now, I’ve tried MWT a few times on a practice range and moved as much weight as possible to the heel to try to counteract my slice. It wasn’t that effective for me, though I reckon that has more to do with my erratic game than with any flaws in TaylorMade’s design. The R11 advances the R-series with a white and black club head that improves visibility. As I address the ball, the white is actually a little bit distracting. Sure enough, the ball rockets straight out over the fairway and then turns right like a tiny balloon in a stiff breeze. It’s not the club’s fault. On the second hole, I grip the titanium Nike SQ Machspeed driver, a sleek, mean-looking club that feels more natural in my hands. The head is black, which means when I address the ball I’m not thinking about the head being white. It’s equipped with something called “STR8-FIT” adjustable face-angle technology, which can, with the turn of a wrench, open or close the club face up to two degrees in either direction, to correct for a slice or a hook. There are eight different

APRIL CROSSWORD ANSWERS

angles to choose from. I’ve opted to close mine all the way, and sure enough, on impact the ball launches straight down the fairway. Is that old natural swing of mine suddenly reappearing, or is it the wizardry of the Nike lab technicians? By the time I reach the 18th hole at Fallen Oak, a sweeping turn to the clubhouse with a mess of picturesque bunkers running along the left side, I’m in something like a groove. That old swing is back. I’m even comfortable enough to try out the Bushnell rangefinder. Standing on the tee box, I turn it on and, sure enough, every contour of the 18th is programmed into it. Peering through the lens, I see that the bunkers on the left are exactly 183 yards. The trees on the right are 280 yards—very much in play. I opt for the Nike and manage a decent drive that rolls to the right side of the fairway. My second shot is a vindication—it bounces just shy of the green. I take out my TaylorMade Rossa Ghost putter, which, like the R11 driver, is painted white. In this context, I find the white much more soothing—it blends slightly with the ball, and calms my hands. I drain the 10-foot putt and mark a par on the card. Walking off the green toward the clubhouse, where I’ll console myself with a spicy bowl of homemade gumbo, I feel slightly disheartened, as though all the money in the world couldn’t help prop up my game. But then I look down at my shoes—those stylish Fred Couples spikeless Eccos—and remember that, at the very least, I started the day in a great pair of shoes. Despite his natural swing, MIKE GUY reckons he’s lost more than 500 balls at the York Golf and Tennis Club in York Harbor, Maine.

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07/03/2011 15:27

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The Knee Diaries: SJ is a 60-year-old male with bone on bone osteoarthritis of the left knee. An X-ray showed arthritis of the knee (X-ray on the left). Patient started receiving treatments at The Center For Regenerative Medicine. Today he is feeling better (X-ray on the right). This is how it works: The physician introduces Cell Therapy into damaged, arthritic cells by means of a precise injection. This process is followed by infrared laser as well as several other modalities including Collateral Artery Flow Exercises (C.A.F.E.), in order to accelerate the process. Depending on tissue damage, severity of the condition and the size of the joint that needs to be injected, people usually need a series of 1 to 6 treatments to improve. There is usually no down time, and people can go back to their usual activities or work immediately. The treatments can help most musculoskeletal problems such as low back pain, neck pain, knee pain, shoulder pain, whiplash, sciatica, tendinitis, sprain, strains, torn ligaments and cartilage damage.

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11/03/2011 22:02

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | APRIL 2011

food&drink

RIGHT SAID FRED

Portlandia’s Fred Armisen; pasta with crab from Clyde Common.

LOCAL FLAVOR: PORTLAND, OREGON

P H O T O : JA S O N N O C I T O/C O R B I S O U T L I N E ; DAV I D L A N T H A N R E A M E R /C LY D E C O M M O N

BACK TO THE ’LAND FOR HIS NEW SHOW ABOUT PORTLAND, COMEDIAN FRED ARMISEN INDULGES IN THE FOODIE SCENE. // BY LAYLA SCHLACK

ON THE FIRST episode of Fred

Armisen’s new sketch comedy show, IFC’s Portlandia, there’s a bit about a couple going to a restaurant and inquiring about the provenance of the chicken—not an altogether unusual request in Oregon’s most haute city. The server tells them that should they order the free-range chicken, they’ll be served Collin, who roamed four acres of woodland 30 miles south of the city. Not convinced that Collin lived a good enough life, the pair heads to the farm just to make sure.

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Armisen, a Saturday Night Live veteran and frequent Portland visitor, may have created Portlandia to poke gentle fun at the Rose City’s hyper-conscientious, locavoreobsessed, über-politically-correct culture, but that doesn’t mean he doesn’t like to eat well when he’s in town. “Whatever I’m eating, I want it to be fresh, and I want it to be good.” And Portland is good for that. “I also like to eat very quickly, so the food carts are perfect for me,” he says. “There’s a cluster of them near the Jupiter Hotel. One of them, Slow & Low, serves really good

barbecue. They’ve only got a few things on the menu, and they’re all good. I love that.” In addition to shooting Portlandia there, Armisen says he visits the city about once a year. If you want to catch him, “I always eat at Clyde Common,” he says. “It’s centrally located next to the Ace Hotel, and it’s got really, really good food.” A hotspot among the city’s hipsters, the restaurant has communal seating and such quirky takes on classic bar foods as pimenton popcorn and harissa french fries. No word on where its chicken is from.

07/03/2011 10:20

APRIL 2011 | HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

food&drink

STEEP ASCENT After founding (and selling) big-label teas Stash and Tazo, Portland’s Steven Smith has a go at small-batch blends.

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STICKY SITUATION Pok Pok’s famous

chicken wings.

Lord of the Wings CHEF ANDY RICKER’S SOUTHEAST ASIAN TAKE ON AN AMERICAN BAR CLASSIC HAS TURNED PORTLAND ON TO A NEW TYPE OF THAI FOOD. // BY JAY CHESHES WHY IS CHEF Andy Ricker buying every

package of pig intestine in an Asian supermarket? “We had a distributor selling us chitlins,” he says, “but the quality was crap.” He tosses a few packages of pigs’ ears into the cart (“We stew them, slice them and fry them”) and takes big slabs of beef liver (“for our tom saep, spicy sour soup”). With offbeat ingredients slipped into so many dishes, diners rarely know exactly what they’re getting at Pok Pok,

Ricker’s Thai restaurant. “If you go into detail, people will stay away,” he says. Maintaining some mystery has helped the place become Portland’s hottest destination and has earned Ricker a James Beard nomination. He ﬁrst warmed to Thai cuisine in the late ’80s while bumming around Southeast Asia, Australia and New Zealand. Although he didn’t know it at the time, the food Ricker discovered in Chiang Mai would deﬁne his career.

P H O T O S , F R O M L E F T: M OYA M CA L L I S T E R ; DAV I D L A N T H A N R E A M E R

“I couldn’t ﬁnd things I really wanted to drink,” says Steven Smith when asked how he got into the tea business. After the natural food store he co-owned closed, Smith started Stash Tea in 1972, which he sold to a Japanese tea company in 1993. His next venture was Tazo, which he sold to Starbucks after ﬁve years. After dabbling in early retirement, Smith got restless and founded Steven Smith Teamaker in 2009. This venture is a labor of love, and Smith is fanatical about the quality of his product. “We only make what we think we’re going to sell in three to four weeks,” he says. “We also encourage people not to buy very much, so they can enjoy it while it’s fresh.” If you’re in Portland, you can stop by Smith’s shop for a tasting. Don’t miss the Bungalow Darjeeling brew. “I’m pretty enamored with it,” Smith says. —LAYLA SCHLACK

07/03/2011 10:21

He opened Pok Pok in 2005 as a takeout shack in front of his house. There were only eight things on the menu, including green papaya salad made with a wooden mortar and pestle, and lemongrass-scented game hens cooked in an upright rotisserie he’d imported. Within weeks of opening he had lines down the block. Ricker transformed the shack into a full-service restaurant, which eventually subsumed his whole house. Now with three restaurants open and a fourth in the works, Ricker pushes crispy fried pig stomachs and fermented black crabs on an

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PROPRIETORS: Steve Huse & Craig Huse

increasingly adventurous public. But while the edgiest dishes helped build a daredevil following, his real claim to fame is a Southeast Asian riff on a classic American bar treat. Portland diners can’t get enough of his chicken wings with ﬁsh sauce and hot chilies. “Off the hook,” swooned Guy Fieri on Diners, Drive-ins, and Dives. “The wings paid for my condo,” says Ricker. “They paid for my car. I can’t complain.” Though he would never call his food authentic—the word, he says, is too loaded—Ricker is obsessive about details. He adds limestone paste to his sticky rice to mimic the hard water in Thailand; he brought a coconut press back to squeeze his own milk; and the drinking water at his restaurants is often perfumed with pandanus leaf, as it would be in Chiang Mai. At Pok Pok, cooks are pressing fresh sugar cane for cocktails, and a heap of wings glistens sticky-sweet. “We have a crew of people in here from eight a.m. until midnight every day,” says the chef. “We bend over backward to get this stuff right. There’s no other way to do it.”

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PROPRIETOR: Benjamin Prelvukaj CHEF: Arturo McLeod

ATLANTA, GA 770.512.8888

PROPRIETORS: Claudia & Doug McKendrick,

III Forks

Rick Crowe

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Metropolitan Grill

Manny’s

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RingSide Steakhouse RingSideSteakhouse.com

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PORTLAND, OR 503.223.1513

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PROPRIETORS: Jan, Scott & Craig Peterson

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07/03/2011 15:29

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | APRIL 2011

artifact

FEATURES 64 THE HEMI Q&A Katie Couric has a thing for Glee and a weakness for Twitter. By David Carr

68 THE WRESTLER How one giant Estonian aims to redeem scandalrocked Japanese sumo. By Kevin Gray

74 MAGIC MAN A visit to illusionist David Copperﬁeld’s eclectic island paradise. By Mike Guy

82 THREE PERFECT DAYS: SAN FRANCISCO In the foggy Golden Gate City, the food is as good as the views. By Matthew Thompson

“San Francisco’s Ferry Building has been converted into a marketplace for artisan foodsellers—check out Acme Bread Company for some classic loaves.” P.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ERIN KUNKEL

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07/03/2011 10:22

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APRI L 2011

THE HEMI Q&A: KATIE COURIC

DAVID CARR

The groundbreaking CBS Evening News anchor discusses good advice, her weakness for Glee, and her brief, star-crossed acting career (two words: deaf-mute). ILLUST R AT I O N BY

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TH O M A S F UCHS

07/03/2011 10:24

WHEN YOU’RE KATIE COURIC and a good chunk of America has grown up watching you on TV, first at the Today show and then behind the anchor desk at CBS Evening News, you get a lot of invitations to give commencement speeches. Couric, who prides herself on her ability to quickly connect with audiences, has always been an easy touch, giving more than a dozen addresses over the years. But last year, when she was asked to speak at Case Western Reserve University, she winced at the prospect of sharing her life lessons yet again. So the 54-year-old decided to reach out to some of the people she had covered over the years, asking them for good advice she might be able to share. Her request drew responses from Sheryl Crow, Jordan’s Queen Rania and everyone in between, and Couric decided that the concept might be worth a book, not just for the recently graduated, but for grown-ups as well. The book, The Best Advice I Ever HEMISPHERES: The book is chock-full of great advice, but can you Got: Lessons from Extraordinary Lives tell us one thing that really stood out? (Random House), will be out on COURIC: I’m really fond of Kathryn Stockett’s essay. She April 12 and includes wisdom from wrote The Help, an amazing book that everyone’s now reading, A-listers in business, entertainment but which was initially turned down by, like, fifty different and politics, including Michael publishers. Her essay is on the importance of not giving up. Morgan Freeman wrote a beautiful entry that reflected that Bloomberg, Mario Batali, Drew Brees, same idea. It all sounds a little hackneyed, but the message Ellen DeGeneres and, of course, Couric really comes alive in these essays. And, by the way, rather herself, who discusses her remarkable than make money by putting my name on a book full of arc from desk assistant at ABC to the other people’s advice, we’re donating all of the proceeds to first female solo anchor in network Scholarship America. broadcasting and her decision to HEMISPHERES: Very noble. Any other good advice in the book? respond to her husband’s death from COURIC: Curtis Sittenfeld said you should marry someone cancer by committing resources to less neurotic than you, and Chelsea Handler said don’t sleep cancer research and prevention. with your boss—although she did. Julie Bowen of Modern Family After returning from Egypt, where wrote about how she wished she had gotten more Cs in school, she, along with many other journalists, which is the sort of advice from a classic overachiever that I’ve was menaced while she reported the been trying to impress on my fifteen-year-old daughter. February protests in Cairo, Couric HEMISPHERES: Speaking of which, your daughter must have been talked about the new book, her recent pretty excited to see her mom on Glee. You played yourself, interviewcameo on Glee, the joys of Twitter and ing Sue Sylvester. Did you push for a little song and dance like the one chocolate chip cookie dough. Gwyneth Paltrow got when she was on the show?

COURIC: If that happened, it would not have been pretty. It was enough to mock myself and to have fun with Sue Sylvester. You should know that when I auditioned for my high school musical, Carnival, I though I might get the lead. They cast me as a deaf mute. HEMISPHERES: Very funny. COURIC: Funny, but sadly true. I was not lacking in conﬁdence, but the lead went to Lori Ketler. HEMISPHERES: Where is Lori now? COURIC: I don’t know, actually. But Glee was fun, in part because my daughter is a complete Gleek and it’s something we watch together. I very much admire the writing on that show, because I think they deal with a lot of tough issues that adolescents face, whether it’s what it’s like to be a gay teenager, or having a bad body image or teenage pregnancy. I’m embarrassed to admit I watched a Glee marathon on Oxygen over the weekend, and the episode where Kurt’s father has a heart attack, which ends up being a meditation on faith, well, it really resonated in my house, because I’m a single parent. I know it sounds crazy that I’m talking about a

66 APRIL 2011 | HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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THE HEM I Q&A

“I sometimes miss the connection I had with Today show viewers. I could be spontaneous.”

KATIE DID // From left, Couric on the set

P H O T O S , F R O M L E F T: © 2 0 0 9 C B S B R OA D CA S T I N G ; K E V I N M A Z U R /G E T T Y I M AG E S ; M I C H A E L YA R I C H © 2 0 1 1 F OX B R AO D CA S T I N G

of The CBS Evening News; with daughter and fellow Gleek Ellie; grilling Sue Sylvester (Jane Lynch) on Glee.

TV show this way, but they tackle some pretty big ideas, and I really appreciate it. Plus, who doesn’t like those cheesy songs from the seventies and eighties? HEMISPHERES: I notice @katiecouric is a steady presence on Twitter. During the winter you posted a picture of you helping push someone in a fancy sports car out after a blizzard in New York. COURIC: I was getting a ride to work in an SUV with a friend and she said, “Oh my god, what kind of idiot would drive a Maserati in the snow?” It was [media über-tycoon] Barry Diller. I wouldn’t even know what a Maserati was, but as we drove by I rolled down the window and I said, “Yo, you need a lift?” We tried to get him out, and I had a friend take a picture with my Blackberry so I could tweet that particular only-in-New-York moment. I should have Tweeted that there’s a good looking Maserati on 79th Street if anybody is interested, but I didn’t think that would have been a very nice thing to do. HEMISPHERES: You’d think as someone who spends so much time in front of the camera, you’d want to be less connected in your off hours. COURIC: I sometimes miss the connection I had with Today Show viewers, because I was very much myself. I could be spontaneous. People felt like they knew me because they sort of did. Twitter is a nice way for me to connect with viewers in a job where I have to be a little more serious. HEMISPHERES: So you like, as the old folks say, doing the Twitter? COURIC: I do. I think the learning curve was pretty high for me. I’m still getting the hang of it. I have been tweeting news out in real time as we work on it, and that’s probably not always a good idea. Although I like the immediacy of it,

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I probably need to take a wait-and-see approach on some fast-breaking stories. But I do think it just gives some nice transparency in a manufactured world. HEMISPHERES: Speaking of manufactured: favorite junk food? COURIC: Chocolate chip cookie dough. HEMISPHERES: Last movie you saw that just knocked you down? COURIC: Black Swan. I couldn’t stop thinking about it. HEMISPHERES: Book, besides The Help? COURIC: I’m reading The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo, now that the whole world has ﬁnished reading it. HEMISPHERES: Way to be on the cusp of things, Katie. COURIC: I’m also reading The Big Short by Michael Lewis, and my house is piled with stacks of the New Yorker, The Economist, Time and Newsweek. HEMISPHERES: Any secret television pleasures besides Glee? COURIC: Dancing with the Stars, baby. HEMISPHERES: I wouldn’t watch that show with your eyes. And if you actually go out for the night? COURIC: I’d go to a nice, cozy Italian restaurant and then a movie, maybe an arty ﬁlm at Lincoln Center. If I really have some free time, I’d do that, and then maybe go listen to some live music. I’m extremely groovy. Not. HEMISPHERES: And if you were picking the band onstage? COURIC: Oh God, this is so hard. How about Adele? HEMISPHERES: I think we’re done here. DAVID CARR, who covers culture and media for The New York Times, blames the fact that he watches Glee on his 14-year-old daughter, but the truth is he’s a Gleek with or without her.

10/03/2011 10:42

Amid a string of devastating SCANDALS,

Japanese sumo has turned to

THE WRESTLER unlikely saviors like BARUTO,

a big, genial Estonian,

to restore this 2,000-year-old sport to GLORY.

STORY BY KEVIN GRAY â&#x20AC;¢ ILLUSTRATION BY RAUL ALLEN

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THE RIKISHI SQUATS

He stomps his bruised and splayed feet wide apart. He reaches back his arms, like a diver preparing to plunge, and slaps his elephantine glutes. Getting ready now, driving blood to muscle, drawing up testosterone, provoking the body into a selfinﬂicted urgency and rage. Animated, he smacks his own face and stares down his opponent. The sumo ring is the only place he is truly alive. Outside it, he is an artifact, culturally irrelevant, a sad cartoon standing alone on Tokyo’s bullet trains, dining with bowed head at McDonald’s, moving among fashionable Harajuku girls who are blind to him. The rikishi once drew princes to his bouts. His profession— going back some 2,000 years—was to entertain the Shinto gods and purify himself before them. Now all he sees in the pagoda-like stands

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The rikishi weighs 414 pounds. He is 26 years old. Like most sumo wrestlers today, he is not Japanese. He is ESTONIAN. of Tokyo’s Ryogoku Kokugikan arena are yakuza gangsters, housewives and noisy German tourists, all gathered amid the thickening clouds of scandal threatening to envelop Japan’s national sport. Just after lunch on a Tuesday, the arena is only half full. The gyoji, in his bright referee silks, shoeless in the sand-covered dohyo ring, holds up his wooden war paddle, the gunbai, to signal that the battle is about to start. A child with a sign shouts “Baruto!” The rikishi weighs 414 pounds. He is 26 years old. His name is Baruto, a reference to the Baltic Sea. Like most sumo wrestlers today, he is not Japanese. He is Estonian. Other rikishi hail from Russia, Bulgaria, Georgia, Mongolia and Brazil. Unlike Japan’s foreign baseball players, the rikishi speak flawless Japanese. They are organized into 50 heya, or training stables, but they compete one-on-one in these two-week tournaments six times a year. Baruto is a favorite, but his knee is giving him trouble. The gyoji lowers his paddle. Baruto charges his opponent with a series of slaps to the face and neck. The sound of massive flesh hitting flesh echoes in the small ring. Baruto’s preferred move is the migi-yotsu grip, his right hand inside and his left outside his opponent’s arms, as he goes in for the tsuridashi, or lift-out. The goal in sumo is simple: knock the other guy down or push him out of the ring. Baruto suddenly loses his balance. As his opponent

pushes on his neck, he stumbles backward, out of bounds. The crowd gasps. But then it roars approval for his smaller opponent. The match, like all sumo matches, lasts only a few seconds. Baruto bows, hands his opponent the champion’s ladle of water and walks offstage.

ON A WEEKDAY MORNING I take a crowded commuter train into the suburbs of Tokyo. An hour out, the train pulls into the station and Yukiko Ono, a 41-year-old housewife and sumo fan, picks me up in the family van. When Ono was pregnant five years ago, she was stuck home watching daytime TV. One day, she turned on sumo. “I can feel their bodies because I am getting fat too,” she says. When her baby was only six months old, she brought him to the rikishi stable in her neighborhood, which is open to the public during morning training, and made friends with the wrestlers. One of the them was Baruto, then a newcomer. “He is kind and funny,” says Ono. “He has a beautiful smile. And he is a good sport.” We turn a corner. There, open to the street on the first floor of a metallic apartment house, is Baruto’s training stable. It’s an odd sight amid the quiet homes to see a half dozen enormous men wearing nothing but mawashi, the G-string-like belts rikishi wear. We slip in to a side door and are seated, with tea, on a small platform inches from the action. Baruto is sparring with a teenager half his size. He goes at the kid with his slap attack like a six-foot-four-inch bear smacking down a cub and jams him into a wall with a neck hold. The room, covered in sand and mocked up as a real dohyo, smells of sweat and dirt and wet heat. The big steel doors to the street let in a chilly morning air. After he finishes, Baruto’s assistants bow, hand him clean towels to dry off and start sweeping the floor. “I do that to toughen them up,” Baruto says in perfect English, as he sits down on the wood platform, smiling almost boyishly. “But it is also for their training.” Top rikishi like Baruto can earn $20,000 a month. They pay to support assistants, who clean kimonos and towels and shoes and carry gear to arena matches.

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“If it is TRUE,” Japan’s prime minister said of the latest sumo scandal, “it is a very serious BETRAYAL of the people.” Baruto grew up a farm boy in Estonia. He took up judo as a teen, and a local Japanese sumo promoter convinced him to try the sport. He was hesitant at first. “I told him I was interested, but I was worried about being naked,” he says. He was brought to Japan at age 20 and rose swiftly through the ranks, making one of the fastest such ascents ever. A few years ago, he hurt his knee and was knocked briefly back to a lower league. He lost his match the other day, he says, “because my feet were too far apart. And I had extended my arm too far out.” Ono adds, “It’s a simple mistake.” Sumo is a sport of ritual. Rikishi are bound by rules in and out of the ring. They must wear kimonos in public (brighter colors indicate higher rank). They are not allowed to sit on subways or trains (out of respect for other riders, and because they would take up more than one seat) even if the cars are empty. They are not allowed to drive because they are forbidden to hurt others, a rule that could be broken if they were in an accident. Baruto owns a brand new white Hummer, but his young Russian wife drives it. He instead rides his bicycle everywhere—to the local McDonald’s and to play pachinko. Last year, dozens of rikishi disgraced their hallowed sport when they were found to be gambling on baseball games with organized crime figures. The local newspapers ran front-page photos of gangsters sitting in the front row at meets. The scandal shocked the

Japanese, and many of them turned their backs on the sport, further eroding its dwindling fan base. The national TV network refused to broadcast the summer tournament and is now considering halting sumo broadcasts altogether. Prior to that, the sport was tainted by the discovery of marijuana use among four rikishi and the 2008 hazing death of a young wrestler at the hands of a trainer. In February of this year came the most damaging news yet: Police produced evidence of rampant matchrigging, and the sumo association was forced to cancel its spring tournament. “If it is true,” said Japan’s prime minister, Naoto Kan, of the allegations, “it is a very serious betrayal of the people.” Amid the wreckage, the Japan Sumo Association is counting on rikishi like Baruto—who is unfailingly cheery in and out of the ring, in defeat or in triumph—to help repair its image. To his most devoted fans, Baruto is known as Leo, because he looks a bit like an enormous Leonardo DiCaprio. Most retiring rikishi end up doing one of two things: starting a chankonabe restaurant (the heavy rice, meat and ﬁsh dish they eat six times a day to keep up their weight) or running a heya. Baruto has a foreign idea. “I want to be an actor,” he says. Ono smiles warmly up at him. “I knew him before he was famous,” she says.

THE SMALL GROUPS OF TOURISTS, single women and businessmen entertaining clients who gather in front of the stadium the next day snap photos of the rikishi as they go inside. A large sandwich board out front reads “No Maﬁa.” Inside, I grab the $3 headphones to hear the in-house Englishlanguage radio transmission of the matches. The best seats are the massuseki, the four-person box seats on the lower level, where you sit in traditional Japanese style. They’re pricey, $125 apiece, compared to $30 for the upper level, but worth it. From here, you can order fried ﬁsh and dumplings, sushi and beer, and lotus-shaped orange sherbet balls from waiters who work the teahouses in the front hall. K-Go Mizutani, a 36-year-old musician who studied jazz in New York City and performed on the soundtrack for PlayStation’s Gran Turismo 5, says young people can’t afford to attend sumo matches. “It only costs ten dollars for a baseball ticket,” he says. “And always, the young

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P H O T O S , F R O M L E F T: JA NA P R E S S /Z U M A P R E S S ; N E WS C O M

FRIENDLY GIANT Baruto, left, at a Setsubun festival; and right, throwing Ozeki Kotomitsuki out of the ring at the 2011 New Year Grand Sumo Tournament.

people don’t think the traditional stuff is cool. Nobody thinks sumo is very cool.” But it is beautiful. Which comes as a surprise. During the dohyo-iri, the opening ring ceremony, the wrestlers come out before their bouts begin. Each is clustered into two groups—East and West. They take turns entering the ring, forming a circle and facing the crowd. Then they turn inward, facing each other, and lift their kesho-mawashi, large decorative aprons, and raise both hands in unison, meant to show no one is armed. By the time Baruto comes out, around 4 p.m., when the best of the best are wrestling, the crowd has thickened. He wastes no time going after his opponent with force and speed. Baruto

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is the second-largest rikishi in sumo today. He rapidly slaps his opponent. There’s none of the hesitation or slipping from the previous ﬁght, as if he means to make up for it. He uses his size to perform a double-arm thrusting maneuver, lifting the other rikishi up and out of the ring in seconds. The crowd cheers. K-Go is pleased. He likes Baruto for the same reason everyone seems to like him. Baruto seems very Japanese—in his respect for opponents and for his fans. K-Go points to two couples sitting next to us, an older businessman and his younger associate and their wives. “You see, if an older person bought me a ticket to the match, I would be sitting there straight and proper and polite, like he is,” says K-Go of the associate. “Shyness is a beautiful thing in Japan—respecting other people, not to be bothering, like the samurai or sumo. You have to bear things. The samurai, even if he is hungry, he has a toothpick in his mouth to show he is full. Not to be a burden on other people, to bear up on your own strength.” KEVIN GRAY, a business and crime reporter, wrestled in middle school, but never achieved the girth needed to launch his sumo career.

07/03/2011 10:31

Illusionist David Copperﬁeld’s latest trick is conjuring up the world’s most luxurious, mysterious (and expensive) island retreat. BY MIKE GUY PHOTOGRAPHS BY BRIAN DOBEN

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00 AUGUST 2010 | UNITED.COM

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avid Copperfield flies! He disappears the Statue of Liberty! He walks through the Great Wall of China! He reads minds, slices people in half, spins them around and then—with a devilish grin and perfect hair—puts them together again! More than any other man, David Copperfield advanced magic from the sepia days of Houdini to the modern American spectacle of illusion, mixed in with a little Las Vegas bombast. • That’s why when he greets a tired group of travelers on a moonless, starry night at the dock of his private 700-acre Bahamian island, Musha Cay, it’s a little surprising to discover that Copperfield— a 54-year-old native of working-class Metuchen, New Jersey—is unassuming, quiet and even a little shy. • “I’m David,” he says, setting down his flashlight to help the guests out of the boat (a jetboat with a black stripe across the side that—like most other details on Musha Cay— Copperfield designed himself). Handsome and fit, with a raven-black coif impervious to the blustery tradewinds, Copperfield leads the guests to Landings, where a spread of sushi, grouper and salad is laid out on the dark mahogany bar. He takes a bite as he sits down and says, “All my life I never liked food. I couldn’t see the point of it, beyond the obvious.” >>>

BATH WHIZ • Opposite, matching tubs at the Pier House; this page, collected details of life on Musha, and a portrait of Babs, a Toco toucan.

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EASY RIDER • Above, David Copperﬁeld passes the Landings; the ﬁve

guesthouses are adorned with artifacts—and the occasional peacock.

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He does now. Copperfield bought Musha Cay, 200 miles WANT MORE? Download from Miami, about four years ago, renamed the waters around Our App. the island Copperfield Bay and set about overseeing its transformation into a singular top-shelf retreat. Now completed, it is in many ways like other exclusive resorts: The food is impeccably prepared, fresh and inventive, with ingredients tailored to a guest’s needs. There are Waverunners, handwoven hammocks and enough palm-roofed palapas to house hundreds of guests, though only 24 are allowed at a time, each paying roughly $265,000 a week. Unlike other luxury resorts, however, Musha Cay is rich in details that can only be described as Copperfieldian: spooky statues in the undergrowth, a hidden drive-in movie theater, a room that plays Gilligan’s Island in a 120-hour loop on a black-and-white TV, and a secret monkey village. Copperfield shows us to the pool , just steps from the beach, and leans over to run his fingers through it. “Yep,” he says, emphasizing his mastery of the details. “Exactly ninety-one degrees. Of course, we can change it in fifteen minutes if you want.” Google founder Sergey Brin was married here. So were Penelope Cruz and Javier Bardem, on a two-mile-long scimitar-shaped sandbar just across Copperfield Bay. Bill and Melinda Gates stayed for a week with a group of friends, and when the Microsoft founder discovered that the island is wired up with iPods, he playfully replaced them with Zunes. What attracts people like Brin, Gates and the Cruz-Bardems to Musha Cay? For one thing, it’s the single most expensive and exclusive island redoubt in the world. But as much as Disney World was at one time a reflection of Walt Disney’s vision, Musha is an expression of Copperfield’s tastes. Not the cheesy tastes you might expect from a Vegas showman, but those of an epicure. The resort is peppered with unexpected wood and stone statuary of Hindu gods and Buddhas that Copperfield collected in his travels through locales like Bali, China, Afghanistan and Southeast Asia. Every walking path has a hidden stone Ganesh statue or a wood carving of Krishna. A simple stroll through a grove of palms turns into a walking anthropological slideshow of Hindu iconography. “I go to Bali and pick up tons of stuff,” he says. “When I travel, containers come back to the States filled up with this stuff. I have a whole museum of it in Las Vegas and five floors in New York City. More than I know what to do with.” So he fills the five guesthouses with museum pieces. The largest is Highview, a 10,000-square-foot colonial mansion on a hill in the middle of the island, with commanding views of Copperfield Bay. Along the shore are Pier House, Palm Terrace and Blue Point. The most secluded is the Beach House, a simple abode with an outdoor bathroom and a cozy pavilion for watching the pelicans feed at sunset. Each place is decked out with handcarved Balinese wooden settees, ancient African

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PLAYING IN THE SAND

• Lunch on a twomile-long sandbar in Copperﬁeld Bay, and, opposite, downtime on a handmade hammock.

masks, repurposed sofas from Nepal, ornate wall panels, lamps and bureaus—each piece oiled and stained to a precise shade and placed (most likely) by Copperfield himself. With all his work here, it’s hard to believe he still pulls off 600 performances a year at the MGM Grand Casino in Vegas. At night, a giant movie screen emerges from a stand of palm trees. Burgers and dogs materialize on a table, alongside boxes of Junior Mints and Raisinettes. A sign appears informing you this is “Dave’s Drive-In.” “It’s just like my childhood,” Copperfield says. “It’s one of my best memories. My father would pack us into his sixty-one Chevy Impala convertible. Sometimes, he’d hide me under his blanket to save a dollar-fifty.” A vintage popcorn machine starts popping from behind another palm tree. As tonight’s film, The Social Network, starts up, Musha staff bring around blankets as Copperfield and his guests curl up on the chaise lounges.

ne afternoon, Copperﬁeld is sitting on a stool at the beach lounge. He has a walkie-talkie in one hand and a cell phone in the other. He is wearing a looseﬁtting black collared shirt, black cargo shorts and green Crocs. He keys the walkie-talkie and leads us past the spot in the palm grove where a replica of his Hollywood star sits in the sand, across a path to the start of the thick jungle. Suddenly, he disappears down a hidden path, and after a couple of minutes arrives at a giant stone statue of a monkey. “Here, we beat on some drums.” He mimics beating

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a drum on his chest, and the statue slowly rises up over the jungle canopy, revealing a spiral staircase that leads to a long tunnel. The experience has the distant feel of a Disney production, but with much better production values: distressed iron doors, vintage exposed lightbulbs, a ceiling lined with tar-soaked railroad ties. After a few minutes’ walk through the tunnel, we emerge into a distinctly different jungle. Even the vegetation has changed. Copperfield flew in thousands of plant species that are safe for squirrel monkeys to eat. “The monkeys are still being trained in Florida,” Copperfield says, and shuts the door to the tunnel. A moment later, he reopens it, and the tunnel is gone, replaced by a closet filled with overalls for imaginary monkey handlers. “You won’t see any fences here. The monkeys can touch you, but you can’t touch them,” he says. And then, in spite of himself, he adds, “Kind of like strippers.” That night, Copperfield fires up the karaoke machine in Landings, a colonial-style house that serves as the social heart of the resort, handing instruments out to his guests. He’s relaxed, having enjoyed a nice meal of roasted squab and quinoa, and as the first strains of Dean Martin’s “Memories Are Made of This” play over the speakers, he says to me, “Hey, a sing-along. Let’s trade verses.” Memories, indeed. Hemispheres editor in chief MIKE GUY once made an entire large Di Fara’s pizza disappear.

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Three Perfect Days

SAN FRANCISCO Home to tech mavens, foodies, counterculture types and newcomers from all over the globe, Americaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hilly, fog-shrouded Golden Gate is a city unlike any other. BY MATTHEW THOMPSON 84 DAY ONE

87 DAY TWO

88 DAY THREE

A short bid at Alcatraz

Shopping in Japantown

Biking over the bridge

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | APRIL 2011

SAN FRANCISCO TREATS

Opposite, the boat to Alcatraz; above, the market in the Ferry Building.

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3PD SAN FRANCISCO

AS THE HYDE-POWELL CABLE CAR NEARS THE TOP OF RUSSIAN HILL, the rumpled blanket of

the city spreads out before you—a mosaic of electric buses, Chinese markets and cubist houses clinging to the pinnacles of ski-jump streets. This is San Francisco: a collision of history, whimsy and 23rd century technology, all meeting at oddly canted angles. A walk down the Embarcadero might reveal aging beatniks who look like Mark Twain, Art Deco street cars, sunburned longshoremen jawing in Spanish and trendy boutiques specializing in sustainable bamboo iPad covers. Whatever you’re looking for, be it rare bookstores in North Beach, fortune cookie factories in Chinatown or ﬂocks of wild parrots at the top of Telegraph Hill, San Francisco rises to meet you and inevitably proves to be well worth the climb.

GOLDEN GREATS

Opposite, the grilled vegetable pizza at Beretta; from top, the Fairmont Heritage Place; the goods at Cowgirl Creamery; Coit Tower on Telegraph Hill.

DAY ONE It’s almost unfair to call the Fairmont Heritage Place (1) a hotel. With its

massive suites, exposed brick walls, ocean-view patios and ﬁre pits, it feels more like a trendy loft co-op. While it’d be tempting to kill the day lounging on your private porch or digging through their 500-title DVD library, you lace up your walking shoes and throw yourself out into the city. First, you head around to The Buena Vista Café (2), a local institution famous for its Irish coffees. You order the Dungeness crab omelet and marvel as the bartenders whip up drinks 30 at a time behind the long wooden bar. Don’t linger too long, though. You’ve got a boat to catch. Reached via a 1.5-mile ferry ride, Alcatraz prison (3) stands like a crumbled castle above San Francisco Bay. Once home to the likes of Al Capone, George “Machine Gun” Kelly and Robert “Birdman” Stroud, it is now run by the National Park service. Former prisoners and guards narrate the self-guided audio tour, highlighting MEG GLASSON // WRITER // everything from the bullet holes in the walls to “My favorite spot in the city the beaten lawn of the baseball diamond. is Bleacher Section 144 at AT&T Park. It’s nestled back Back on the mainland, you take a left against the water, and its down Embarcadero Street and walk to the bench seats face centerﬁeld. Ferry Building (4). Once a transportation The fans in 144 get pretty rowdy, but they’re solid, local, hub, this brick colossus has been converted working gamers.” into a marketplace for artisan foodsellers— check out Acme Bread Company for sourdough WANT MORE? and Cowgirl Creamery for gourmet cheese— Download Our App. and a jaw-dropping farmers market on Tuesdays, ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER JAMES FIELD

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3PD SAN FRANCISCO

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BEAUTY AND BRAINS Clockwise from top right,

“Rainforests of the World” at the Academy of Sciences; radicchio at the Ferry Plaza Farmers Market; the Japanese Tea Garden; a ﬂight of red at First Crush; opposite, The Cliff House.

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3PD SAN FRANCISCO

REBEL, REBEL A WHIRLWIND TOUR OF S.F. COUNTERCULTURE

First came the 49ers, who actually started arriving in 1848 in search of gold and increased the city’s population 25-fold in a single year. By the 1880s, writers like Ambrose Bierce, Mark Twain and Robert Louis Stevenson had gathered here, helping San Fran develop its reputation as a hub for the arts. In the 1950s, many of the Beat writers called the city home, hosting readings and bop concerts in North Beach. Their presence helped bring about the Summer of Love in 1967, when hippies ﬂocked to Haight-Ashbury, spawning a host of legendary rock bands like the Grateful Dead and Jefferson Airplane. By the ’70s, the hippies had been largely replaced by an inﬂux of gays and lesbians (partially fueled by the military, which often deposited its dishonorably discharged gay soldiers in San Francisco), which turned the Castro neighborhood into the engine of the gay rights movement. Today, the action is in Palo Alto, where tech nerds with milliondollar condos work to craft the technology that will drive San Francisco for its next 100 years.

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Thursdays and Saturdays. You forage together a fresh picnic lunch and eat staring out at the waterfront. Now it’s time to burn those calories. You head through Levi’s Plaza to the Filbert Street Steps (5), an epic staircase climbing to the summit of Telegraph Hill, and soak up the gardens on either side—a brilliant mix of banana plants, azaleas, bamboo groves and agave that often play host to flocks of wild parrots. At the top you catch your breath in the shadow of Coit Tower (6), a stone observation deck with 360-degree views of the city, from the pyramidal Transamerica Building to serpentine Lombard Street. (Mercifully, there’s an elevator.) Next, head down to Grant Avenue. Running north to south, this street bisects two of San Francisco’s most storied neighborhoods: North Beach and Chinatown. In North Beach, check out the quirky boutiques and inhale the tantalizing aroma of Italian bistros. Be sure to drop into Vesuvio (7) for a cheap drink and a stiff shot of Beatnik culture—Jack Kerouac and Allen Ginsberg used to hang out here, and the walls are crammed with pictures, poems and scribblings they left behind. Below Columbus Street, Grant transforms. Gone are the tiny shops and clothiers; in their place are the markets, importers and dim sum restaurants of Chinatown (8). As the street begins to rise toward Nob Hill, be sure to pop down a few of the alleys, where working spice shops and junk stores replace the tourist emporiums along the main drag. Back at the hotel, it’s time to freshen up for dinner, but don’t spend too long on your outfit. Where you’re going it won’t matter. Opaque (9) is a gourmet restaurant with a twist: It serves its meals in pitch darkness. It’s messy, but the deprivation of one sense enhances the others in ways you never thought possible. With fantastic cooking from head chef Michael Whang and phenomenal service from the waitstaff (all of whom are visually impaired), it’s a dinner worth remembering. You’ve got one more stop to make before bed. Catch a cab over to First Crush (10) for a little taste of Napa Valley. Ask the knowledgeable waitstaff to assemble you a custom flight (a lineup of mini glasses) from the 500-plus-label wine list. You savor a variety of jammy reds or aromatic whites before heading to bed.

DAY TWO Having transferred to the Hotel Des Arts (1), you awaken above the

street sounds of downtown San Fran. A joint venture with the Mission District’s START SOMA gallery, this boutique hotel boasts rooms designed and painted by emerging artists (including Shepard Fairey, the creator of the Obama “Hope” poster) that might include anything from abstract gold leaf to screen-printed Mexican wrestlers. Just down the hill on Market Street, the Palace Hotel offers one of the most spectacular dining spaces in the city. With its Gilded Age design, the Garden Court (2) restaurant looks like the ballroom of a Viennese palace. The food is great, but the main attraction here is the massive glass ceiling, which vaults three stories above your table. Enjoy a freshsqueezed orange juice and some cinnamon brioche French toast while pondering the morning sky. Sated, hop the 38 bus west. Your destination is Japantown, a network of indoor and outdoor malls, markets and shops. It’s the perfect place to find obscure J-pop albums, luxe origami paper, futuristic cell phone cozies or action figures. Stop into New People (3), a five-story combination boutique, café and movie theater specializing in hard-to-find Japanese fare. Pick up a papercraft robot for your desk and a box of Pocky for the flight home.

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When you’re done browsing, walk a block over to Dosa (4), a world-class Indian restaurant right in the heart of Japantown. With its stylish décor and hyperauthentic South Indian cuisine, Dosa is a treat on every level. Order the spicy fish pakoras, cumin beet soup and a mini dosa (a crispy stuffed crêpe). The flavors are subtle and delicately layered. You head to Golden Gate Park to relax and digest. After wandering through the Japanese Tea Garden (5), a 117-year-old complex of carp ponds, pagodas, bonsai trees and rock gardens, you head into the Academy of Sciences (6) to mess around with the interactive exhibits and gape at the neon colors of the aquariums. Take your time wandering, as both spots offer hidden surprises—Buddha statues, starfish petting pools—to reward the careful visitor. As the afternoon shadows begin to lengthen, hop the Fulton Street bus west to Ocean Beach, a sparsely populated fivemile strip of sand favored by dog walkers, picnickers and the odd surfer. Walk north toward the unassuming white concrete box of The Cliff House (7), a historic hotspot perched on a bluff above the water. Inside, you’ll find a beautiful modernist space perfect for watching the sunset on the Pacific. You order the flaky bacon-crusted salmon on celery-potato puree, and stick around until the last ray of sunset slips below the horizon.

DAY THREE Today, you’re in the St. Regis (1),

a sleek luxury hotel just off Union Square. From your high-rise room trimmed with creamy marble and bamboo, you peer down at the roof of the Museum of Modern Art and throw on some athletic gear. Time to go biking. After picking up a mountain bike from the Bike and Roll (2) rental shop on Columbus Avenue, you head down to the Bay and follow the bike path west through the dunes. You pass a strip of marinas and zipping kiteboarders out on the choppy surf, then

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LEA GULINO // VOICEOVER ACTRESS // “I just discovered the Musée Mécanique down by Fisherman’s Wharf. It’s got all these old carnival and arcade games, and it’s perfect for a rainy day. I played Galaga before work last week!”

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SHORE SHOT This page, Ocean Beach; opposite, from bottom, the Golden Gate Bridge; Anchor and Hopeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lobster roll; the main dining room at Dosa.

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HILL STREET BLUES THERE ARE OFFICIALLY 43 HILLS IN SAN FRANCISCO. HERE ARE SIX OF THE MOST FAMOUS. TELEGRAPH HILL, 284 FT. BETWEEN NORTH BEACH AND THE WATERFRONT, YOU’LL FIND COIT TOWER AT THE SUMMIT IN THE MIDDLE OF A WOODED PARK. WATCH OUT FOR THE FLOCKS OF WILD PARROTS.

NOB HILL, 376 FT. GUTTED BY THE 1906 FIRE, NOB HILL NOW PLAYS HOST TO A MIX OF LUXURY HOTELS, LIKE THE RITZCARLTON, AND THE EVERENCROACHING FRONTIER OF CHINATOWN.

RUSSIAN HILL, 294 FT. A RESIDENTIAL COMMUNITY PERCHED ABOVE GHIRARDELLI SQUARE AND THE BAY, IT’S MOST FAMOUS FOR THE SWITCHBACKS OF LOMBARD STREET, WHICH RUNS DOWN ITS SIDE.

MOUNT SUTRO, 918 FT. THIS PARCEL OF DENSE EUCALYPTUS FOREST, LOCATED DUE WEST OF THE CASTRO, BOASTS A NUMBER OF WELL-MAINTAINED HIKING TRAILS.

TWIN PEAKS, 904 FT. AND 911 FT. LOCATED IN THE CENTER OF THE CITY, THESE TWIN HILLS (EUREKA AND NOE) ACT AS A FOG BREAK FOR THE EASTERN HALF OF TOWN. CHRISTMAS TREE POINT, BELOW EUREKA PEAK, OFFERS THE BEST VIEW IN SAN FRANCISCO.

MOUNT DAVIDSON, 938 FT. THE TALLEST NATURAL POINT IN SAN FRANCISCO, MOUNT DAVIDSON IS MOSTLY PARK SPACE, WITH A GIANT CROSS ILLUMINATED FOR EASTER AT ITS PEAK.

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RAIL ROAD A classic San Fran streetcar.

take the Long Avenue switchback up until it intersects with a second bike path, and make a beeline for the bright red turrets of the Golden Gate Bridge (3). Riding over the bridge is exhilarating, with the wind hitting you in furious bursts. The view from the middle, with San Francisco Bay spread out beneath you, from Alcatraz to the Bay Bridge to the grassy hills of Marin County, is spectacular. As you come down the far side, follow signs to Sausalito, a sleepy town of shops, galleries, and cafés nuzzled into the north end of the bay. It’s a long ride down, but don’t worry about having to climb back up. You can take a ferry from the center of town straight to Fisherman’s Wharf. Drop off your bike and change back at the hotel. Anchor and Hope (4), just two blocks away, is a foodie-friendly seafood restaurant that provides exciting twists on seafood and comfort dishes. Try the apple ginger cured salmon tartare followed by a gourmet fish sandwich. Back outside, hop the F streetcar down to the arty Mission District and amble down Valencia (5), the main thoroughfare. Browse through a legion of cool art shops, bookstores, galleries and bars. Be sure to detour down Clarion Alley to take in the incredible street art that spills across its walls and garages. Grab dinner at Beretta (6), at the corner of Valencia and 23rd. This Italian eatery specializes in gourmet cocktails—you try the Old Pretender, a citrusy blend of scotch, Drambuie and fortified white wine. For food, you go for the eggplant caponatina, a decadent warm salad made with olives, pine nuts, onions, tomatoes and burrata cheese. You follow it up with a delicious, creamy risotto. You make your way north through the Mission and then cut across Dolores Park to the Castro. Historically a bastion for the city’s thriving gay community, this neighborhood has recently seen an influx of young families and yuppie singles. You’re just in time to catch a film at the Castro Theatre (7), a magnificent old movie house that specializes in cult classics and midnight schlock. Be warned: The audiences can get pretty raucous, which is part of the fun. Afterward, you wander into the night, through the wildly diverse crowds, to the F streetcar. As you ride back to the hotel, it’s hard not to feel like this is ROBERT SPINRAD // CONCIERGE, the very heart of San Francisco: the seamless union RITZ-CARLTON // “My favorite of art, culture and public transportation—all etched, part of town is the Marina district, home of the indelibly, into the side of a hill. MATTHEW THOMPSON, a Hemispheres contributing writer, is still waiting for his home state of New Hampshire to get cable cars.

magniﬁcent Palace of Fine Arts, and the most amazing pizza funghi at A16 restaurant on Chestnut Street.”

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THOSE THREE PERFECT DAYS DAY ONE (1) Fairmont Heritage Place 900 N. Point St.; Tel: 800-921-8865 (2) The Buena Vista CafÃ© 2765 Hyde St.; Tel: 415-4745044 (3) Alcatraz Ferries leave from pier 33, Embarcadero near Bay Street (4) Ferry Building 1 Ferry Building; Tel: 415-983-8030 (5) Filbert Steps Sansome Street between Greenwich Street and Union Street (6) Coit Tower 1 Telegraph Hill Blvd.; Tel: 415-362-3516 (7) North Beach Northeast of Columbus Ave. (8) Chinatown South of Broadway and East of Hyde Street (9) Opaque 689 McAllister St.; Tel: 800-710-1270 (10) First Crush 101 Cyril Magnin St.; Tel: 415-982-7874

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DAY TWO (1) Hotel Des Arts 447 Bush St.; Tel: 415-956-3232 (2) Garden Court 2 New Montgomery St.; Tel: 415-512-1111 (3) New People 1746 Post St.; Tel: 415-525-8630 (4) Dosa 1700 Fillmore St.; Tel: 415-441-3672 (5) Japanese Tea Garden 75 Hagiwara Tea Garden Dr.; Tel: 415-668-0909 (6) Academy of Sciences 55 Music Concourse Dr.; Tel: 800-794-7576 (7) The Cliff House 1090 Point Lobos Ave.; Tel: 415-386-3330

DAY THREE (1) St. Regis 125 Third St.; Tel: 415-284-4000 (2) Bike and Roll 899 Columbus Ave.; Tel: 415-229-2000 (3) Golden Gate Bridge Highway 101 (4) Anchor and Hope 83 Minna St.; Tel: 415-501-9100 (5) Valencia Street (6) Beretta 1199 Valencia St.; Tel: 415-695-1199 (7) Castro Theatre 429 Castro St.; Tel: 415-621-6120

11/03/2011 17:36

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Investing In People HEMISPHERES PROMOTION l APRIL 2011

Live and Learn The world moves fast. We can help you keep up. THE BUSINESS WORLD is a fast-moving place. To keep up, professionals have to be smart, nimble, and eager to keep excelling long after theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve earn their undergrad degrees. Anyone navigating todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ever-changing jobs market will tell you: If you want to get ahead, you have to keep learning new tricks. No matter the ďŹ eld youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re inâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;technology, for instance, or the ďŹ nancial marketsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;you have to be prepared to change when your industry changes. The business world doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t wait for stragglers. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve taken the ďŹ rst step in helping readers ďŹ nd a way to keep up with the industry in which they work. By compiling information about schools and universities that offer continuing education and degree-oriented courses, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve drawn up a lifechanging roadmap to advancing their careers. The beneďŹ ts of a lifelong education are incalculableâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; both for the individuals and for the companies

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11/03/2011 16:18

Investing In People HEMISPHERES PROMOTION l APRIL 2011

The Howe School Preparing Global Leaders Since 1884 THE HOWE SCHOOL is a coeducational, college-preparatory boarding school affiliated with the Episcopal Church for grades 7-12. Students at Howe learn how to transfer the beneﬁts of military structure, discipline, organization and leadership to their college and career path. As a JROTC Honor School with Distinction, Howe is the nation’s preeminent school providing students with the best leadership education and training through experiences that will strengthen their knowledge, character development and application of leadership skills for the 21st Century. Howe is committed to providing young men

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Advertorial p093-095.indd 2

As a Kelley Direct student, you would have the opportunity to learn from award-winning faculty and earn the world-renowned Kelley School of Business MBA or MS degree on your schedule, while making connections with other high-caliber working professionals from across the globe.

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Investing In People HEMISPHERES PROMOTION l APRIL 2011

Any MBA equips you to

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EDUCATION MARKETPLACE

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11/03/2011 16:30

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | APRIL 2011

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11/03/2011 16:30

HEALTH & WELLNESS SHOWCASE

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11/03/2011 20:27

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | APRIL 2011

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Fly into the future watching Tron. ENTERTAINMENT

102 Films & Television 110 Audio Programming 126 Crossword 128 Sudoku

INFORMATION

115 United Destinations 120 Customs & Immigration 121 Terminal Diagrams 125 Alliances & Partnerships 138 Food & Beverages

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10/03/2011 10:23

FILM & TELEVISION FILMS ARE SHOWN ONLY on ﬂights of three hours or longer. Movies available on most 747, 757, 767, 777, A319 and A320 aircraft ﬂights. Schedules and selections are subject to change. International Language Tracks / (S) Películas están disponsibles en Español en todas las rutas domesticas en el canal 10.

WESTBOUND

EASTBOUND FILM

NORTH AMERICA

TELEVISION

FILM

TELEVISION

APRIL 1-15

30 Rock [T]

The Big Bang Theory [T]

APRIL 1-15

The Defenders [T]

APRIL 1-15

Hawaii Five-0 [T]

Gulliver’s Travels [T] (S)

Sports Jobs with Junior Seau

Tron: Legacy [T] (S)

Cash Cab

APRIL 16-30

The Tourist [T] (S)

The Ofﬁce [T]

How Do You Know [T] (S)

The Simpsons [T]

Psych [T]

Brothers and Sisters

The Middle

Better with You

FILM

TELEVISION

FILM

TELEVISION

APRIL 1-15

The Ofﬁce [T]

APRIL 1-15

The Simpsons [T]

Psych [T]

How Do You Know [T] (S)

Brothers and Sisters

APRIL 1-15

APRIL 1-15 The Tourist [T] (S)

Better with You

The Middle

HAWAII

APRIL 16-30

APRIL 16-30 Gulliver’s Travels [T] (S)

APRIL 16-30

Tron: Legacy [T] (S)

APRIL 16-30

Both films available on flights

30 Rock [T]

Both ﬁlms available on ﬂights

The Big Bang Theory [T]

The Defenders [T]

between Denver/Chicago and Hawaii

Hawaii Five-0 [T]

between Denver/Chicago and Hawaii

Cash Cab

Sports Jobs with Junior Seau

SOUTHBOUND

FILM

TELEVISION

FILM

NORTHBOUND

APRIL 1-15

The Simpsons [T]

The Big Bang Theory [T] (S)

LATIN AMERICA & CARIBBEAN

APRIL 1-15

Psych (S)

APRIL 1-15

Tron: Legacy [T] (S)

Frasier (S)

Gulliver’s Travels [T] (S)

APRIL 16-30

How Do You Know [T] (S)

30 Rock [T]

The Tourist [T] (S)

Friday Night Lights [T] (S) Hawaii Five-0 [T]

TELEVISION

House [T] (S) Cash Cab APRIL 16-30 Two and a Half Men [T] Rescued: The Chilean Mine Story (S) Sports Jobs with Junior Seau Friends (S)

GET IN TOUCH What do you think of our programming? We’re open to suggestions. Please send them to play@united.com or visit united.com/play.

P102_108HEM0411FilmTV.indd 1

02/03/2011 14:15

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | APRIL 2011

MOST FILMS HAVE BEEN EDITED FOR AIRLINE USE. However, customer discretion is still advised. Content guidelines are provided as a courtesy to our customers in choosing whether to view a ﬁlm.

TRON: LEGACY [T]

CUSTOMERS ARE WELCOME TO VIEW their own video entertainment aboard a United aircraft as long as they are able to show the programming has an MPAA rating of “R” or less.

2 hrs.

(S) Spanish (G) German (C) Chinese (J) Japanese

103

[V] Violence [S] Sexual Situations [T] Adult Themes

GULLIVER’S TRAVELS [T]

1 hr. 28 min.

“Director Joseph Kosinski has a recipe for adventure that should delight gamers. Non-techies are on their own.” —Rolling Stone

“Black was already the world’s biggest little kid, and he might be the only actor who could have made this movie such nimble fun. ”—New York Post

Sam Flynn, the tech-savvy 27-year-old son of Kevin Flynn, looks into his father’s disappearance and ﬁnds himself pulled into the digital world of Tron, where his father has been living for more than 20 years. FEATURING Jeff Bridges, Olivia Wilde, Garrett Hedlund DIRECTED BY Joseph Kosinski

Jack Black is Lemuel Gulliver, a lowly mailroom clerk at a New York newspaper. After he bluffs his way into an assignment about the Bermuda Triangle, he goes there only to be transported to an undiscovered land where he is literally larger than life. FEATURING Jack Black, Jason Segel, Emily Blunt DIRECTED BY Rob Letterman

HOW DO YOU KNOW [T]

THE TOURIST [T]

1 hr. 59 min.

“Brooks has given us the rare contemporary rom-com that’s by turns....thoughtful and funny, and that doesn’t feel focus-grouped, cynical, misogynist, or mean.” —Slate Feeling a bit past her prime as she nears 30, former athlete Lisa Jorgenson ﬁnds herself in the middle of a love triangle as a corporate guy in crisis competes with Lisa’s current baseball-playing beau. FEATURING Reese Witherspoon, Owen Wilson, Paul Rudd, Jack Nicholson DIRECTED BY James L. Brooks

P102_108HEM0411FilmTV.indd 2

1 hr. 42 min.

“Sure, the plot is preposterous, but the two stars look great, the scenery is spectacular and the supporting cast is a hoot.”—RichardRoeper.com During an impromptu trip to Europe to mend a broken heart, Frank unexpectedly ﬁnds himself in a ﬂirtatious encounter with Elise. Their whirlwind romance quickly turns into a deadly game of cat and mouse. FEATURING Angelina Jolie, Johnny Depp, Paul Bettany DIRECTED BY Florian Henckel von Donnersmarck

02/03/2011 14:15

FILM & TELEVISION TELEVISION DESCRIPTIONS The views contained in the video content are not necessarily those of United.

THE DEFENDERS [T]

HAWAII FIVE-O [T]

THE BIG BANG THEORY [T]

Nick defends a woman accused of running down a jogger while talking on her cell phone. Meanwhile, Pete helps a man down on his luck.

When a teenage girl’s body is found near Waikiki, Steve and the team are assigned the task of ﬁnding her missing sister. The case is further complicated because the girl’s father is a U.S. ambassador.

Wolowitz begs Leonard to get Penny to set him up with one of her friends, while Sheldon takes part in a trading-card game in order to ﬁnally triumph over his nemesis, Wil Wheaton.

THE OFFICE [T]

30 ROCK [T]

BETTER WITH YOU

Andy hopes his local theater troupe’s production of Sweeney Todd will be a chance to impress Erin. Michael is miffed that his audition for the play went unrewarded, and Jim and Pam try to enjoy their night out without Cecelia.

Jack appears before Congress looking to win approval for the merger with Kabletown. Liz pushes back against the writers’ mockery of her. Jenna helps Kenneth with his application to rejoin the NBC Page Program.

When the guys take a road trip to Vermont to get Casey’s stuff out of storage, Ben sees the journey as a chance to get to know Casey better, while Joel envisions it as an opportunity to become a father-inlaw gone wild.

ELECTRONIC EQUIPMENT/PERSONAL DEVICES United Airlines strives to make its customer experience safe and comfortable and accordingly has issued the following in regard to the use of electronic equipment/personal devices onboard its aircraft. However, the following is not a contract and does not create any legal rights or obligations. Certain electronic devices may not be used on our planes for safety reasons. Such devices may cause electromagnetic interference with cockpit navigation or communications systems during ground operations and while the aircraft is flying below 10,000 feet. However, when an aircraft is traveling above 10,000 feet (normally about 10 minutes after takeoff), passengers can use many of the devices listed. Hearing aids, heart pacemakers and watches are acceptable at all times. These electronic devices can be used in the cabin, but may not be used during takeoff and landing: Calculators; handheld computer games; shavers; portable CD and tape players; laptop computers/ accessory printers/tape drives; portable VCRs/video players These electronic devices cannot be used on the airplane at any time: Cellular phones (cellular phones maybe used on the plane at the gate before the aircraft door is closed or at captain’s discretion when the plane is away from the gate and on the ground); televisions; AM/FM transmitters-receivers; remote-controlled toys In addition, United Airlines has an onboard photography and video policy. Customers who bring personal audio and video equipment onboard may only use these items with headsets. Noise-canceling headsets may be activated. The use of still and video cameras, film or digital, including any cellular or other devices that have this capability, is permitted only for recording of personal events. However, photography, audio or video recording of other customers without their express prior consent is strictly prohibited. Also, unauthorized photography, audio or video recording of airline personnel, aircraft equipment or procedures is always prohibited. Any voice, audio, video or other photography (motion or still), recording or transmission while on any United Airlines aircraft is strictly prohibited, except to the extent specifically permitted by United Airlines. UAL Corporation October 2009.

P102_108HEM0411FilmTV.indd 3

02/03/2011 14:16

Not just legroom… laptop room. Enjoy more personal space in Economy Plus .®

>P[O ,JVUVT` 7S\Z L]LU `V\Y SHW[VW NL[Z [V Z[YL[JO V\[ 7\YJOHZL ,JVUVT` 7S\Z ZLH[PUN HUK KPZJV]LY H ^OVSL UL^ ^VYSK VM JVTMVY[ -VY TVYL PUMVYTH[PVU NV [V \UP[LK JVT [YH]LSVW[PVUZ

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11/03/2011 15:09

FILM & TELEVISION B747 MAINSCREEN PROGRAMMING INTERNATIONAL LANGUAGE TRACKS (G) Synchronisierte Versionen finden Sie auf Kanal 2 und 3 (wenn verfügbar). (J) ᪝ᮇㄊ䛴ྻ䛓᭨䛎䛵䝅䝧䝷䝑䝯㻕␊䛐䜎䛹䠅␊䛭䛐⫀䛓䛊䛥䛦䛗䜄䛟䚯䟺ୌ㒂ⱝㄊ㡚ኇ䛴䜅䛮䛰䜐䜄䛟䚯䟻㻃(C) ⤪㝄⎗䓐炻⛐䫔ĳ根忻␴䫔Ĵ根忻⮮㍸ὃ宕妨⻽枛ġ(K) 채널 2,3에서 더빙버전이 제공됩니다

U.K./ NETHERLANDS

GERMANY

FROM U.S.

TO U.S.

Tron: Legacy [T] (G) 2 hrs. How Do You Know [T] (G) 1 hr. 51 min. TV 2 hrs. Conviction [T] (G) 1 hr. 46 min. TV 2 hrs.

Gulliver’s Travels [T] 1 hr. 28 min. The Tourist [T] 1 hr. 42 min. TV 2 hrs. The King’s Speech [T] 1 hr. 58 min. TV 2 hrs.

FROM U.S.

TO U.S.

Tron: Legacy [T] (G) 2 hrs. How Do You Know [T] (G) 1 hr. 51 min. TV 2 hrs. Conviction [T] (G) 1 hr. 46 min. The Chronicles of Narnia: The Voyage of the Dawn Treader (G) 1 hr. 52 min. TV 2 hrs.

AUSTRALIA

JAPAN & SOUTH KOREA *Japan flights only

CHINA & HONG KONG

THAILAND & TAIWAN

Gulliver’s Travels [T] (G) 1 hr. 28 min. The Tourist [T] (G) 1 hr. 42 min. TV 2 hrs. The King’s Speech [T] (G) 1 hr. 58 min. True Grit [T] (G) 1 hr. 50 min. TV 2 hrs.

FROM U.S.

TO U.S.

Gulliver’s Travels [T] 1 hr. 28 min. TV 2 hrs. The Tourist [T] 1 hr. 42 min. The King’s Speech [T] 1 hr. 58 min. TV 2 hrs. True Grit [T] 1 hr. 50 min. TV 2 hrs.

Tron: Legacy [T] 2 hrs. How Do You Know [T] 1 hr. 51 min. Conviction [T] 1 hr. 46 min. TV 2 hrs. The Chronicles of Narnia: The Voyage of the Dawn Treader 1 hr. 52 min. TV 4 hrs.

FROM U.S.

TO U.S.

Gulliver’s Travels [T] (J) 1 hr. 28 min. The Tourist [T] (J) 1 hr. 42 min. TV 2 hrs. The King’s Speech [T] (J, K) 1 hr. 58 min. TV* 2 hrs. True Grit [T] (J, K) 1 hr. 50 min. TV 2 hrs.

Tron: Legacy [T] (J, K) 2 hrs. How Do You Know [T] (J) 1 hr. 51 min. TV 2 hrs. Conviction [T] (K) 1 hr. 46 min. The Chronicles of Narnia: The Voyage of the Dawn Treader

FROM U.S.

TO U.S.

Gulliver’s Travels [T] (C) 1 hr. 28 min. The Tourist [T] (C) 1 hr. 42 min. TV 2 hrs. The King’s Speech [T] (C) 1 hr. 58 min. True Grit [T] (C) 1 hr. 50 min. TV 4 hrs.

(J, K) 1 hr. 52 min. TV 2 hrs. TV* 2 hrs.

Tron: Legacy [T] (C) 2 hrs. How Do You Know [T] (C) 1 hr. 51 min. TV 2 hrs. Conviction [T] (C) 1 hr. 46 min. The Chronicles of Narnia: The Voyage of the Dawn Treader (C) 1 hr. 52 min. TV 4 hrs.

FROM JAPAN

TO JAPAN

Megamind (J, C) 1 hr. 36 min. Secretariat* [T] (J, C) 2 hrs. TV 4 hrs.

Morning Glory [T] (J, C) 1 hr. 47 min. Unstoppable* (C) [T] 1 hr. 39 min. TV 4 hrs.

*Thailand flights only

SINGAPORE VIETNAM

P102_108HEM0411FilmTV.indd 5

FROM HONG KONG

TO HONG KONG

Megamind (C) 1 hr. 36 min. TV 4 hrs.

Morning Glory [T] (C) 1 hr. 47 min. TV 4 hrs.

TV 4 hrs.

02/03/2011 14:16

Knowing sure beats searching. Get the guaranteed lowest United fare at united.com.

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11/03/2011 15:09

FILM & TELEVISION B747 MAINSCREEN PROGRAMMING

CONVICTION [T]

1 hr. 46 min.

THE KING’S SPEECH [T]

(S) Spanish (G) German (C) Chinese (J) Japanese

1 hr. 58 min.

[V] Violence [S] Sexual Situations [T] Adult Themes

MEGAMIND [T]

1 hr. 36 min.

After Betty Anne Waters’ older brother Kenny is arrested for murder and sentenced to life in 1983, she dedicates her life to overturning the conviction by putting herself through high school, college and, ﬁnally, law school. FEATURING Hilary Swank, Sam Rockwell, Thomas D. Mahard DIRECTED BY Tony Goldwyn

Based on the true story of the Queen of England’s father and his remarkable friendship with maverick Australian speech therapist Lionel Logue, this period piece stars Academy Award winner Colin Firth as King George VI, who has to ﬁnd a voice with which to lead the nation into war. FEATURING Colin Firth, Helena Bonham Carter DIRECTED BY Tom Hooper

After super-villain Megamind kills his good-guy nemesis, he becomes bored and creates a new hero to ﬁght. Before long, Megamind’s creation goes rogue and starts wreaking havoc himself. Can Megamind save the day? VOICES BY Will Ferrell, Brad Pitt, Tina Fey DIRECTED BY Tom McGrath

MORNING GLORY [T]

THE CHRONICLES OF NARNIA: THE VOYAGE OF THE DAWN TREADER [T]

TRUE GRIT [T]

1 hr. 47 min.

When hard-working TV producer Becky Fuller is ﬁred from a local news program, her career begins to look as bleak as her love life. Stumbling into a job at Daybreak, Becky decides to revitalize the show. FEATURING Rachel McAdams, Diane Keaton, Harrison Ford DIRECTED BY Roger Michell

1 hr. 52 min.

Edmund and Lucy Pevensie, along with their cousin Eustace, ﬁnd themselves swallowed into a painting and onto the Dawn Treader. The mission takes the courageous voyagers to mysterious islands and a river that turns to gold. FEATURING Georgie Henley, Skandar Keynes, Ben Barnes DIRECTED BY Michael Apted

1 hr. 50 min.

When a tough U.S. marshal helps a stubborn young woman track down her father’s murderer, she convinces him, against his better judgement, to let her tag along. FEATURING Jeff Bridges, Hailee Steinfeld, Matt Damon DIRECTED BY Ethan Coen, Joel Coen

YOUR COMPLETE GUIDE TO MOVIES, TV SHOWS, MUSIC AND PREMIUM SEAT COMFORT ABOARD UNITED

APRIL 2011

PLAY TECH TALK

IF YOUR AIRCRAFT IS EQUIPPED with in-seat video, refer to the separate Play guide located in your seat pocket.

Tron: Legacy uses new effects to lure old fans.

Play_0411_p01_Cover.indd 1

Digital media loading occurs between the 25th and 5th of each month. As a result, please understand if your ﬂight features a different lineup before and after the start of each month.

02/03/2011 11:14

P102_108HEM0411FilmTV.indd 7

02/03/2011 14:16

The destination before your destination. Buy a Red Carpet Club® one-time pass today.

9LSH_ VU `V\Y UL_[ [YPW HUK KPZJV]LY ^O` V\Y TVZ[ MYLX\LU[ [YH]LSLYZ JOVVZL 9LK *HYWL[ *S\I HUK 7YLZPKLU[Z *S\I SV\UNLZ HZ [OLPY [YH]LS VHZPZ ( VUL [PTL WHZZ SL[Z `V\ L_WLYPLUJL HSS [OL ILULÄ[Z <UP[LK 9LK *HYWL[ *S\I HUK *VU[PULU[HS 7YLZPKLU[Z *S\I SV\UNLZ OH]L [V VMMLY <U^PUK PU H JVTMVY[HISL ZL[[PUN LUQV` H KYPUR HUK H ZUHJR HUK [HRL HK]HU[HNL VM JVTWSPTLU[HY` >P -P ZLY]PJL PU HSS SVJH[PVUZ 7\YJOHZL [VKH` H[ HU` 9LK *HYWL[ *S\I VY H[ \UP[LK JVT [YH]LSVW[PVUZ

No.00000 House Ads United.indd 3

11/03/2011 15:09

AUDIO PROGRAMMING

The latest top selling songs from Zune.

The best of current adult pop.

The greatest classic rock hits.

The latest and greatest alternative hits.

The best of current and classic country.

Britney Spears

Britney’s back with a new album, Femme Fatale, featuring the hit song ‘Hold It Against Me’. Listen to it on the Contemporary Pop channel.

The latest in Indie and Modern Rock.

The best of pop music from around the world.

The best from the world The best in music of chamber music. performed on the piano.

The best from the world The latest and top of classical music. selling music for kids.

The best of contemporary jazz.

The best of atmospheric The latest in electronic and new age music. and dance music.

The best from the world of opera.

The latest and classics from moviez soundtracks.

The best in comedy.

Arcade Fire

The latest and greatest in world music.

HEMI_ZUNE_april.indd 2

The latest and greatest in R&B and soul.

With a Grammy win behind the superb album The Suburbs, listen to ‘We Used To Wait’ on the Indie/Modern Rock channel.

03/03/2011 11:19

Zune and United bring you a sample of the music available to Zune users—on their PC, Xbox 360, Windows Phone 7 and Zune media players. Learn more about Zune music and video entertainment at www.zune.net/united.

Find your aircraft model on the grid below to find the Zune channel that’s right for you. CHANNEL

777 (2-CABIN)

SELECT A320

A319 & A320

747

757/767 (2-CABIN)

1 movie (english)

movie (english)

2 top songs in zune

top songs in zune

movie (dubbed)

top songs in zune

3 contemporary pop

contemporary pop

movie (dubbed)

contemporary pop

4 classical

classical

5 new wave

new wave

6 country

country

unavailable

country

7 classic rock

classic rock

unavailable

classic rock

8 kids

electronic/dance

unavailable

contemporary pop

kids

9 flight deck

flight deck

contemporary jazz/flight deck

10 indie/modern rock

movie (dubbed)

top songs in zune

movie (dubbed)

11 world pop

kids

indie/modern rock

kids

12 new age

new age

13 r&b/soul

contemporary jazz

country

chamber music

14 electronic/dance

indie/modern rock

classic rock

world music

15 chamber music

chamber music

kids

16 piano jazz 17 opera 18 soundtracks 19 comedy

flight deck Listen for your flight number to hear live communication between the flight deck and FAA air traffic control. This feature, unique to United, may not be available on all flights, including oceanic crossings with limited audio communication. Available at your captain’s discretion.

zune pass

Like what you hear? Get all the music offered here today plus unlimited access to millions of other songs with a Zune® Pass music subscription.* Visit zune.net/zunepass to try it free for 14-days. *Zune Pass is a monthly music subscription, available in the United States, UK, France, Italy and Spain. Available content may vary over time.

HEMI_ZUNE_april.indd 3

03/03/2011 11:20

No.00000 Zune Ad HEMI 1pp.indd 1

05/01/2011 08:52

How we built bridges with butterflies. Impossible you might think, but not when you bring the right global organisations together. Irina Bokova is the Director- General of UNESCO, who met with the Star Alliance network representatives in 2001 to create the Biosphere Connections partnership. This environmental initiative linked UNESCO’s network of biosphere reserves with the International Union for Conservation of Nature and the Ramsar Convention on Wetlands to conserve some of the world’s most unique locations. Being the largest airline network, Star Alliance was the natural partner for this initiative as its members were able to donate flights to scientists, field workers and educators involved in projects all over the world. The Amani Nature Reserve in Tanzania, where the Amani Butterfly project was created, was one such project. This small scheme encouraged local people to breed butterflies for exhibition around the world, helping them to earn an income from the forest far beyond their expectations, without exploiting its resources. It’s amazing how a few small butterflies have managed to build bridges between local people and their environment. Watch this story and four others that were made in partnership with National Geographic at staralliance.com

Another great example of global collaboration.

No.00000 House Ads United.indd 5

11/03/2011 15:09

THIS IS THE BAG

that holds the computer with the presentation that will win us the business and get me promoted.

S A M S O N I T E TO U G H

B U S I N E S S R E A DY

samsonite.com

No.31058_Samsonitepdf 1pp.indd 1

13/12/2010 09:53

Yellowknife

Cullaton Lake Ennadai Lake Prince Rupert Sand Spit

Terrace

Smithers

ROUTE ROUTEMAPS MAPS

NORTH NORTHAMERICAN AMERICANCITIES CITIES

Fort St. John

Route lines do not reflect actual flight path Route lines do not reflect actual flight path

Fort McMurray Prince George

United/United United/UnitedExpress/ Express/ Continental/Continental Continental/ContinentalExpress/ Express/ Continental Connection Continental ConnectionRoute Route

Grande Prairie to Anchorage

CA NA DA

Pacific Time Zone B R I T I S H 4:00

C O LU M B I A

Kamloops

Vancouver

Nanaimo

WA S H I N GT O N

Portland

Pasco

I DA H O

OREGON

Medford

Deer Lake

NEWFOUNDLAND & LABRADOR

Gaspe Baie-Comeau

Williston

Lewistown M O N TA NA

Boise

Billings

Cody/ Yellowstone Idaho Falls

Klamath Falls

Redding

Sidney Glendive

Miles City

Minot

Eastern Time Zone 7:00

Thunder Bay

Sudbury Sault Ste. Marie

Pierre Huron

Wausau Minneapolis Eau Claire Green Bay Appleton/ Fox Cities

M I C H I GA N

Saint John MAINE

North Bay

Bangor Bar Harbor

Ottawa Plattsburgh Burlington

Kingston

Traverse City Toronto

Moncton Fredericton

City

Mont Tremblant

WISCONSIN

SOUTH Gillette Rapid City DA KO TA

Presque Isle

Timmins Rouyn-Noranda

Houghton

Duluth

P R I N C E E DWAR D Sydney NEW ISLAND B RU N SW I C K Charlottetown

Saguenay

O N TA R I O

Dickinson Bismarck Fargo

U N I T E D S TAT E S

Chico

MINNE SOTA

NORTH DA KO TA

Îles de la Madeliene

Bathurst

Sheridan

Worland Jackson Hole

Gulf Of St. Lawrence

Mont-Joli

Regina

Glasgow

Bozeman

N E W YO R K

Syracuse

Killeen

Kapalua

N OVA SCOTIA

Pacific Ocean

0 0

50 50

100

100 150

Hilo

Route lines reflect flights operated by United Airlines, Continental Airlines, Inc. and/or their regional partners. For accurate flight schedules, please see www.united.com or www.continental.com. © 2011 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

150 Miles 100

200

300

400 Miles

MEXICO

Harlingen Brownsville

Gulf Of Mexico

Ft. Myers

OnePass Eligible Service

100

200

300

400

500

Boston

Treasure Cay Freeport Marsh Harbour Ft. Lauderdale/Hollywood North Eleuthera Governors Harbour Miami Bimini Nassau Andros Town Cat Island

BAHAMAS

Key West 0

BERMUDA

Codeshare / OnePass Service

Sarasota/Bradenton West Palm Beach

Corpus Christi McAllen

George Town

600 Kilometers

This form is in two parts. Please complete both the Arrival Record (Items 1 through 17) and the Departure Record (Items 18 through 21). When all items are completed, present this form to the CBP Officer. Item 9 - If you are entering the United States by land, enter LAND in this space. If you are entering the United States by ship, enter SEA in this space. 5 U.S.C. § 552a(e)(3) Privacy Act Notice: Information collected on this form is required by Title 8 of the U.S. Code, including the INA (8 U.S.C. 1103, 1187), and 8 CFR 235.1, 264, and 1235.1. The purposes for this collection are to give the terms of admission and document the arrival and departure of nonimmigrant aliens to the U.S. The information solicited on this form may be made available to other government agencies for law enforcement purposes or to assist DHS in determining your admissibility. All nonimmigrant aliens seeking admission to the U.S., unless otherwise exempted, must provide this information. Failure to provide this information may deny you entry to the United States and result in your removal. CBP Form I-94 (05/08) OMB No. 1651-0111

Arrival Record Admission Number

000000000 00

1. Family Name 3. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY)

Newark (Liberty)

New Haven Stamford New York (Penn Station)

Philadelphia Wilmington Washington, DC

ATLANTIC OCEAN

5. Sex (Male or Female)

6. Passport Issue Date (DD/MM/YY)

7. Passport Expiration Date (DD/MM/YY)

8. Passport Number

9. Airline and Flight Number

10. Country Where You Live

11. Country Where You Boarded

12. City Where Visa Was Issued

13. Date Issued (DD/MM/YY)

14. Address While in the United States (Number and Street) 15. City and State 16. Telephone Number in the U.S. Where You Can be Reached 17. Email Address

CBP Form I-94 (05/08)

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection

OMB No. 1651-0111

Departure Record Admission Number

000000000 00

18. Family Name

EXPEDITED PASSPORT CONTROL AND CUSTOMS CLEARANCE IN THE U.S.—GLOBAL ENTRY™

Train Routes

Mobile Baton Pensacola Tallahassee Jacksonville Rouge Lake Charles Gainesville Ft. Walton Del Rio Gulfport/ Lafayette HOUSTON Beach Daytona New Biloxi San Antonio (INTERCONTINENTAL) F L O R I DA Beaumont/ Orleans Pt. Arthur Orlando Victoria Melbourne Tampa/St. Petersburg Laredo

Maui

200 Kilometers

College Station Alexandria

Type or print legibly with pen in ALL CAPITAL LETTERS. Use English. Do not write on the back of this form.

All passengers (or one per family) are required to complete a Customs Declaration before arrival in the U.S. Write in English, in capital letters. Be sure to include the street name and number, city and state of your address in the U.S. If you are transiting through the U.S., you may write TRANSIT and your ﬁnal destination country. Please read both sides of the declaration and place your signature at the bottom of the form.

U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) offers the Global Entry™ program in order to expedite the processing of pre-approved, low-risk international travelers entering the United States. Upon returning from international travel, Global Entry™-enrolled travelers may bypass the regular passport control line and proceed to the Global Entry™ kiosk. Global Entry™ program participants scan their machine-readable passport, U.S. permanent resident card or U.S. visa on the kiosk, place their fingertips on the scanner for fingerprint verification and make a customs declaration. The kiosk issues the traveler a transaction receipt and directs the traveler to baggage claim and exit. The following travelers are eligible for enrollment in Global Entry™: • Citizens and Residents of the U.S. • Citizens of Mexico who hold a U.S. visa • Citizens of the Netherlands who are enrolled in Privium • NEXUS members • SENTRI members Application for enrollment in the Global Entry™ program is available at the Global On-Line Enrollment System (GOES): https://goes-app.cbp.dhs.gov/. It costs only US$100 which covers enrollment in the program for a five year period. The government will review the applicant’s information while a background investigation is conducted. Applicants undergo an interview with CBP officers at an Enrollment Center in the U.S. before final approval is granted. Global Entry™ is available in the following cities: Atlanta (ATL), Boston (BOS), Chicago (ORD-O’Hare), Dallas (DFW), Detroit (DTW), Ft. Lauderdale (FLL), Honolulu (HNL), Houston (IAH-Intercontinental), Las Vegas (LAS), Los Angeles (LAX), Miami (MIA), New York (JFK), Newark (EWR-Liberty), Orlando (MCO-International and SFBSanford), Philadelphia (PHL), Seattle (SEA), San Francisco (SFO), San Juan (SJU), and Washington, DC (IAD-Dulles). For detailed information, go to the U.S. Customs and Border Protection site, globalentry.gov

OMB No. 1651-0111

Welcome to the United States I-94 Arrival/Departure Record Instructions This form must be completed by all persons except U.S. Citizens, returning resident aliens, aliens with immigrant visas, and Canadian Citizens visiting or in transit.

4. Country of Citizenship

Manchester

MISSISSIPPI

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection

All travelers who hold a U.S. visa are required to complete an I-94 Arrival/Departure Record (one per person, including infants). Write in English, in capital letters. Be sure to include the street name and number, city and state of your address in the U.S. If you are transiting through the U.S., you may write TRANSIT and your final destination country. The Customs and Border Protection officer will place the I-94 Departure Record in your passport after inspection. Make sure you return the Departure Record to the airline representative before boarding your return flight.

2. First (Given) Name

Portland

N.H.

I-94 ARRIVAL/ DEPARTURE RECORD

CUSTOMS DECLARATION

V T.

Austin

Kahului

Kona

LOUISIANA

Atlantic Time Zone 8:00

Halifax

Albany Midland/ Boston Rochester Sioux N E VA DA Casper Chadron Ithaca Muskegon Grand Saginaw Sarnia Buffalo/ Falls Hartford/M A S S . Hyannis Sacramento Reno/Tahoe Rock Springs W YO M I N G Milwaukee Rapids Flint Niagara Falls Binghamton SpringfieldR.I. I OWA Nantucket C.T. Newburgh Providence London JamestownElmira Scottsbluff Oakland Lansing SAN FRANCISCO Madison Salt Lake City Wilkes Barre/ Alliance New Haven Modesto White Detroit Windsor Laramie South Erie Bradford Scranton Long Island/Islip San Jose NEBRASKA Vernal Hayden/ Plains Cedar Mammoth Lakes Cheyenne Bend/Elkhart/ CLEVELAND Williamsport New York (La Guardia) Franklin Rapids/ Grand Mishawaka Omaha Steamboat Clearfield Fresno N.J. U TA H North Platte (J.F. Kennedy) PA Des Island Iowa City State Akron/Canton COLORADO Monterey Allentown NEW YORK (NEWARK) Grand Springs Moines Dubois College Visalia OHIO Peoria Junction Vail/Eagle Ft. Kearney Pittsburgh CA L I F O R N I A DENVER Moline Harrisburg Philadelphia Lincoln Moab Wayne Columbus Johnstown Aspen McCook Baltimore Altoona ILLINOIS I N D I A NA Inyokern Morgantown Colorado Springs St. George MARYLAND D E L . San Luis Obispo Montrose Dayton Gunnison/ Bakersfield WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES) Clarksburg Springfield Indianapolis Crested Hays Las Vegas Telluride Parkersburg Shenandoah Salisbury Butte Santa Maria Page/ Cincinnati WV Valley (Reagan National) Cortez Pueblo Durango K A N S A S Kansas City Lake Powell St. Louis Santa Barbara Charlottesville Burbank Huntington Charleston Louisville Alamosa Garden City Lewisburg Richmond Farmington Great Bend LOS ANGELES Long Beach Lexington Beckley Lynchburg Ontario Dodge City Norfolk/Virginia Beach Flagstaff Wichita Orange County KENTUCKY Roanoke V I R G I N I A Newport News/Williamsburg Liberal A R I Z O NA Springfield Carlsbad Tri-Cities Regional Prescott Greensboro/High Point/Winston-Salem Palm Springs Raleigh/Durham NORTH M I S S O U R I Paducah Amarillo Show Low Tulsa San Diego Knoxville CA R O L I NA Albuquerque Nashville Imperial Northwest Greenville New Bern Phoenix/Scottsdale Oklahoma City Charlotte Arkansas Asheville Fayetteville/Ft. Bragg TENNESSEE Yuma ARKANSAS Greenville/ Jacksonville OKLAHOMA Spartanburg Chattanooga Memphis Lubbock Little NEW MEXICO Wilmington Tucson Florence Rock Huntsville/ Columbia Myrtle Beach Decatur SOUTH Atlanta CA R O L I NA Hobbs Charleston Dallas/ Augusta Birmingham El Paso Fort Worth Dallas (Love) Hilton Head Island Monroe Midland/ ATLANTIC Montgomery GEORGIA Odessa Jackson Shreveport TEXAS Savannah A L A BA M A OCEAN Waco Tyler Riverton

Honolulu

Gander

Saskatoon

Missoula

Redmond

Newfoundland Time Zone 8:30

Wabush

MANITOBA

S A S K AT C H E WA N

Great Falls

North Bend

Eureka

Calgary

Helena

120

Goose Bay

Winnipeg

Eugene

Crescent City

Central Time Zone 6:00

Castlegar Cranbrook Lethbridge Medicine Hat Spokane Kalispell

Seattle

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | APRIL 2011

Edmonton

A L B E R TA

Kelowna Penticton

Victoria

PACIFIC OCEAN

Mountain Time Zone 5:00

CUSTOMS & IMMIGRATION

United/Continental Seasonal Service United/Continental Service United/ContinentalFuture Seasonal Service CITY United Hub (Red All Future Caps) Service United/Continental CITY Hub (Blue All(Red Caps)All Caps) CITY Continental United/Continental Hub Cities Citiesserved served Cities Citiesserved servedby byselect selectairline airlinepartners partners Time Timezone zoneboundary boundary

19. First (Given) Name

20. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY)

21. Country of Citizenship

CBP Form I-94 (05/08) See Other Side

STAPLE HERE

LEFT, U.S. CUSTOMS DECLARATION; RIGHT, I-94 FORM, WHICH ALL U.S. VISA HOLDERS MUST COMPLETE.

EU RULES ON THE IMPORTATION OF PRODUCTS OF ANIMAL ORIGIN Bringing meat and dairy products into the EU is generally prohibited. Restrictions also apply to other food and plant items, which must be declared to customs ofﬁcials. Failure to do so may result in delays, ﬁnes or prosecution.

Countries participating in the U.S. Visa Waiver Program (VWP): Andorra Australia Austria Belgium Brunei Czech Republic Denmark Estonia Finland France Germany Greece Hungary Iceland Ireland Italy Japan Latvia Liechtenstein

Lithuania Luxembourg Malta Monaco Netherlands New Zealand Norway Portugal San Marino Singapore Slovakia Slovenia South Korea Spain Sweden Switzerland United Kingdom (British citizen or with unrestricted right of abode)

Countries participating in the Guam-CNMI Visa Waiver Program (VWP): Australia Brunei Hong Kong (SAR) Japan Malaysia Nauru New Zealand Papua New Guinea SIngapore South Korea

Taiwan (direct ﬂight to Guam with passport and national ID card) United Kingdom (including BNO)

CUBA

R1_P115_120_HEMI_0411_ Route maps.indd 1

07/03/2011 15:04

8:00 pm

7:00 pm

9:00 pm 10:00 pm

12:00 MON.

11:00 pm

12:00 SUN.

1:00 am

2:00 am

3:00 am

ARCTIC OCEAN

5:00 am

4:00 am

6:00 am

7:00 am

8:00 am

9:00 am

11:00 am

10:00 am

12:00 pm

1:00 pm

ARCTIC OCEAN

MIDNIGHT

ROUTE ROUTE MAPS MAPS

Route ect actual ight path Route lines lines do do not not refl reflect actual flflight path

RUSSIA

United/United Express United/United Express/ Express // Express/ Continental/Continental Continental/Continental Express/ Express/ Continental Continental Connection Connection Route Route

GREENLAND ALASKA (U.S.)

Lulea

Keflavik Reykjavik

ICELAND

NORWAY

Hudson Bay

Seattle

Changchun

8:00 pm

U.S.A.

Sapporo

Baotou

Pyongyang

Dalian

CHICAGO (O’HARE)

JAPAN

N. KOREA

Beijing Tianjin

Niigata

Sendai

SAN FRANCISCO

Komatsu Seoul S. KOREA TOKYO Qingdao Pusan Fukuoka Osaka Nagoya Nanjing Cheju Okayama Hefei Nagasaki Shanghai Hiroshima Chengdu Wuhan Kumamoto Kochi Oita 6:00 Ningbo Kagoshima Hangzhou Chongqing Matsuyama Changsha Wenzhou Miyazaki Guiyang Fuzhou Guangzhou BHUTAN Okinawa Taipei Kunming Xiamen Guilin BANGLADESH Nanning Macau Shenzhen Ishigaki Hanoi BURMA Hong Kong TAIWAN Chiang Rai LAOS Haikou Chiang Mai Vientiane 9:00 pm THAILAND Yangon South China Khon Kaen Sea Saipan Luzon Island Bangkok Manila Zhengzhou

5:30

CAMBODIA VIETNAM Phnom Penh

Krabi Phuket Hat Yai Penang

PHILIPPINES

Kota Kinabalu

MALAYSIA

Bandar Seri Begawan

Kuala Lumpur

MARSHALL ISLANDS Kwajalein

Yap Chuuk (Truk)

Palau

Pohnpei Majuro

HOUSTON

Austin (INTERCONTINENTAL) San Antonio

Medellin

Tenerife Las Palmas

Bucaramanga

PACIFIC OCEAN

Jakarta

Coral Sea

Darwin

Apia

Dakar Banjul

GUINEA BISSAU

SENEGAL

GAMBIA

Bissau

GUINEA

Conakry Freetown

SURINAME GUYANA

SIERRA LEONE

Monrovia LIBERIA

ATLANTIC OCEAN Manaus

AUSTRALIA

Fortaleza

BRAZIL

MALI

NIGER

BENIN TOGO

1:00

to Los Angeles

Hermosillo Guaymas

Tasman Sea

Melbourne

Hamilton

NEW ZEALAND Queenstown

9:00 pm

Rotorua Napier-Hastings

Los Cabos

Sao Tome SAO TOME & PRINCIPE

11:00 pm

Chihuahua Saltillo

Durango MEXICO

Christchurch Dunedin

Santiago

Monterrey Nassau Tampico Aguascalientes

Havana

Buenos Aires

Santiago Samana Santo Domingo Aguadilla San Juan St. Thomas

1:00 am

2:00 am

3:00 am

4:00 am

5:00 am

Windhoek

7:00 am

8:00 am

9:00 am

10:00 am

11:00 am

12:00 NOON

TANZANIA

BANG.

Dhaka Kolkata

Pune

Agartala

Bangalore Chennai (Madras)

Kozhikode Cochin Trivandrum

Coimbatore

Colombo

MALDIVES Mahé

INDIAN OCEAN

SEYCHELLES

Dar Es Salaam

3:00 pm

4:00 pm

6:00 pm

5:00 pm

COMOROS MALAWI

ZAMBIA

ZIMBABWE

SCOTLAND

FINLAND

Helsinki

ESTONIA

Stavanger MADAGASCAR Aberdeen

Maputo

Glasgow

Oslo SWEDEN Stockholm

MOZAMBIQUE

Manzini

NORWAY

Bergen

Atlantic Lilongwe Harare Ocean

BOTSWANA

BHUTAN

SRI LANKA

Lubumbashi

Aalborg

DENMARK

Aarhus Billund Esbjerg

LATVIA

Riga

Copenhagen Palanga LITHUANIA Malmo Newcastle Bloemfontein RUSSIA Vilnius Gdansk Kaliningrad Groningen Maseru Bremen Hamburg Leeds POLAND SOUTH AFRICA BELARUS LESOTHO Manchester East London Dublin WALES Berlin ENGLAND NETH. Hannover Cape Town Shannon Birmingham Amsterdam Warsaw Port Muenster Elizabeth Cork GERMANY Leipzig BELGIUM London Dresden Bristol London Brussels Prague (Gatwick) Katowice Cologne UKRAINE Frankfurt CZECH Luxembourg Nuremberg REPUBLIC SLOVAKIA Stuttgart Munich Paris Salzburg Basel Linz Vienna Budapest FRANCE AUSTRIA Friedrichshafen Klagenfurt Cluj-Napoca SWITZ. Ljubljana Lyon Verona Venice Zagreb Bucharest TriesteBOS. ROMANIA Turin Milan Bologna HERZ. Belgrade Genoa Florence Toulouse SERBIA Sarajevo La Coruna BULGARIA Marseille Nice Pisa Ancona KOS. Bilbao Sofia Skopje Istanbul Rome ALBANIA MAC. SPAIN Porto Naples ITALY Thessaloniki Madrid PORTUGAL Valencia Alexandroupolis Palma GREECE Ibiza La Romana Palermo Alicante Lisbon Mediterranean Sea Izmir Sevilla Mikonos Granada Faro Rhodes MALTA Luga Heraklion Johannesburg

Montevideo

Mangalore

BURUNDI

2:00 pm

NAMIBIA

VENEZUELA

6:00 am

RWANDA

Lusaka

URUGUAY

Goa

Arabian Sea

Nairobi

Bujumbura

Kinshasa

ANGOLA

Porto Alegre Cordoba

YEMEN

KENYA

Luanda

Curitiba Florianopolis

Mumbai

4:00 pm

SOMALIA

UGANDA

Kigali

Gaborone

Bermuda

San Antonio

COLOMBIA

12:00 MIDNIGHT

ARGENTINA

OMAN

ETHIOPIA

Libreville GABON CONGO

Pointe Noire

Iguassu Falls

PAKISTAN

DJIBOUTI

Juba

DEM. REP. CONGO

Yaounde

EQUATORIAL GUINEA

Rio de Janeiro

Islamabad Jammu Peshawar 4:30 Lahore Amritsar Guwahati Chandigarh Kathmandu 5:00 Delhi NEPAL

Addis Ababa

CAMEROON CENTRAL AFRICAN REPUBLIC Douala

Accra Lome Abidjan Malabo

Belo Horizonte

PARAGUAY

to Cleveland

HOUSTON Austin (INTERCONTINENTAL)

to to to New York New York New York (Newark) (La Guardia) (Newark) Raleigh/Durham to Washington (Dulles)

Campo Grande

AFGHAN.

NIGERIA

Abuja Cotonou Port Harcourt GHANA Lagos

Providenciales Queretaro Cozumel Puerto Mexico City Plata Veracruz Ciudad del Grand Cayman Puerto Vallarta St. Maarten Carmen Manzanillo Montego Puebla Port-auBelize Bay Guadalajara Antigua Kingston Prince Punta Cana St. Kitts Pointe a Pitre Roatan Oaxaca Morelia Toluca Huatulco Martinique San Pedro Sula St. Lucia Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo Tegucigalpa Villahermosa San Andres Barbados Aruba Island Bonaire Acapulco Grenada Guatemala City NIC. Tobago San Salvador COSTA Caracas Port-of-Spain Managua RICA Panama City PACIFIC OCEAN PANAMA Liberia

Palmerstown North Wellington Blenheim

World time zones shown in Standard Time. 10:00 pm

to Denver

Torreon

Auckland

Nelson

R1_P115_120_HEMI_0411_ Route maps.indd 2

to San Francisco

Tamworth

Sydney

Santa Cruz

Kano

TAJIKISTAN

QATAR

Sanaa

Asmara

SUDAN

10:00 am

Brasilia Goiania

Khartoum

3:30

KYRGYZSTAN

Dushanbe

Jaipur Lucknow Dubai Karachi Indore 5:30 Patna Abu Dhabi U. A. E. INDIA Muscat Ahmedabad Raipur Nagpur

Bahrain Riyadh Doha

ERITREA

CHAD

1:00 pm BURKINA Ouagadougou FASO

Recife

BOLIVIA

CHILE

Rarotonga

Dammam

Luxor

SAUDI ARABIA

Salvador Cuzco

FRENCH POLYNESIA Papeete

Niue

Norfolk Island

Gold Coast

Adelaide

8:00 pm

Nadi Nuku’ Alofa

Noumea

9:30 pm

7:00 pm

FIJI

NEW CALEDONIA Brisbane

6:00 pm

WESTERN SAMOA

Port Vila

Cairns

Lima

Pago Pago

Kuwait

EGYPT

Denpasar Bali

INDIAN OCEAN

Amman

2:00 pm

LIBYA

Sal

CAPE VERDE ISLANDS

5:00 Tashkent

IRAN

JORDAN

Cairo

Alma-Ata Bishkek

UZBEKISTAN

Baku

Jeddah

Quito

PERU

Krasnodar

GEORGIATbilisi

ISRAEL

Benghazi Alexandria

ALGERIA

MAURITANIA

FRENCH GUIANA

Guayaquil

6:00 pm KAZAKHSTAN

Donetzk

TURKEY

Izmir

WESTERN SAHARA

ECUADOR

PAPUA NEW GUINEA

4:00

Istanbul

GREECE

CANARY ISLANDS

Cali

Oran

Ekaterinburg

Batumi ARMENIA AZER. Ankara TURKMENISTAN Yerevan Antalya Athens Ashgabat Larnaca Erbil Malta Tunis Ercan Rhodes SYRIA CYPRUS Med Mashad Beirut IRAQ Tehran TUNISIA iter ra nean Sea LEBANON Damascus Baghdad Tripoli Tel Aviv

Funchal

Bermuda

COLOMBIA

Nador

MOROCCO

VENEZUELA

Singapore

12:00

Skopje Tirana

ALB.

Algiers

Casablanca

Kosrae

BRUNEI

Madrid

Lisbon

Horta

Saltillo Monterrey Torreon Nassau Santo Domingo MEXICO Durango Tampico Los Cabos Aguadilla Aguascalientes Providenciales San Juan Queretaro Cozumel Puerto Mexico City St. Thomas Plata Veracruz Ciudad del Grand Cayman Puerto Vallarta St. Maarten Manzanillo Carmen Puebla Montego Port-auBelize Guadalajara Antigua Bay Ponce Prince Punta Oaxaca Tuxtla Roatan Cana Morelia Toluca HuatulcoGutiérrez San Pedro Sula Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo Tegucigalpa Villahermosa Aruba Bonaire Acapulco Guatemala City NIC. Panama Port-of-Spain San Salvador COSTACity Caracas Managua RICA Maracaibo Valencia PANAMA Liberia Cartagena

Honolulu

Barcelona

PORTUGAL

NEW YORK (NEWARK)

Raleigh/Durham

Chihuahua

Cebu

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)

CLEVELAND

WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES)

DENVER

Orange County

GUAM

New York (La Guardia)

MONT.

Moscow

Black Sea

HER. SERB. Sofia KOS.

Rome

5:00 pm

4:00

Manchester

SPAIN

LOS ANGELES

International Date Line

Edinburgh

n Sea

Shenyang

RUSSIA

St. Petersburg

Tallinn

a spi Ca

Harbin

FINLAND Helsinki

Riga LAT. Copenhagen LITH. Malmo Vilnius Belfast Hamburg Gdansk Minsk Dublin Amsterdam BELARUS Berlin Shannon GERMANY Warsaw Brussels POLAND Birmingham Kiev London Krakow Frankfurt Munich UKRAINE Kosice Paris MOLDOVA Chisinau AUSTRIA SWITZ. ROMANIA FRANCE Odessa Geneva Milan Belgrade Bucharest BOS.-

CANADA

Khabarovsk

Ulaanbataar

Oulu

2:00 pm

Stockholm

Glasgow

2:00

Turku

Oslo

UNITED KINGDOM

9:30

CHINA

Umea Trondheim Ostersund Kristiansund Molde SWEDEN Vaasa

Anchorage

8:00 pm

MONGOLIA

Alta

Tromso

United/Continental Seasonal Service United/Continental Service United/Continental Future Seasonal Service CITY Hub (Red All Future Caps) Service United/Continental CITY United CITY Hub (Blue All(Red Caps) CITY Continental United/Continental Hub All Caps) CITY Cities Cities served served Cities Cities served served by by select select airline airline partners partners Time Time zone zone boundary boundary

INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL CITIES CITIES

3:00 pm

2:00 pm

Edinburgh

SWAZILAND NORTHERN IRELAND UNITED Belfast DurbanKINGDOM IRELAND

1:00 pm

07/03/2011 11:11

INFORMATION & TERMINAL DIAGRAMS

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | APRIL 2011

121

MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT. Whether your next ﬂight is on United or one of the Star Alliance partners around the world, use the terminal diagrams on pages 122-124 to plan your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters and interterminal transportation.

CONTACT INFORMATION Reservations united.com 800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

Automated Flight Information

Customer Relations united.com/customerrelations Email: customerrelations@ united.com

800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

Red Carpet Club™ united.com/redcarpetclub 866-UA-CLUBS (toll-free) 520-881-0500 (outside the U.S.)

united.com/chase 800-537-7783

Baggage Services united.com/baggage 800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

United Vacations unitedvacations.com 800-32-TOURS (800-328-6877)

Charter an Airplane united.com/charter

Hearing Impaired (TDD) Small Package Same Day Shipping Small Package Dispatch (SPD)— Airport-to-airport service:

800-323-0170

Mileage Plus Visa Customer Service

800-668-6182

800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

Mileage Plus 24-Hour Account Information & Award Travel united.com/mileageplus

Duty Free World 6095 NW 167th St. Suite D-4 Miami, FL 33015 USA

Reservaciones en Español 800-426-5561

United EasyCheck-In EasyCheck-in kiosks are located on the concourse to assist customers who have experienced a misconnection or canceled flight. Customers who have e-tickets and are traveling domestically may use the kiosk to: 1. Rebook on another flight 2. Obtain a boarding pass 3. Standby for the next flight to their destination

800-722-5243

United Cargo unitedcargo.com 800-UA-CARGO (800-822-2746)

Employment Opportunities united.com/jobs 888-UAL-JOBS (888-825-5627)

Refunds

United Services unitedsvcs.com

united.com/refunds 800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

Meetings Plus 800-MEET-UAL (800-633-8825)

TRAVEL ASSISTANCE FOR DELAYED OR CANCELED FLIGHTS At United Airlines, our priority is safety and keeping an on-time schedule. On occasion, canceling or delaying a flight is the only option to assure we maintain the highest safety standards. Flight canceled? We automatically confirm you on the next United flight with available seats. EasyCheck-in® units located in the concourse will assist you with information and a boarding pass—it will also help you standby for an earlier United flight if one is scheduled. If you want to travel standby and aren’t boarded, we will transfer your name to the next United flight to your destination until you are onboard. What about my bag? Baggage is boarded on the next flight if space is available. This means your bags may arrive before you. United will secure the bag until you claim it. See a baggage claim representative. What if I have to stay overnight? If a flight is canceled to address a mechanical issue or another similar reason within our control, we

will provide you with a hotel and meal voucher. For uncontrollable events—such as weather—we may be able to help you locate a local hotel at a discounted rate; however United does not cover hotel or meal expenses in this event. If we can not retrieve your checked bag, overnight kits containing toiletries are available. Please see an agent. What if the reason for my travel no longer exists? If as a result of the delay or cancelation you decide not to travel, call United reservations (1-800 UNITED-1) to get information on your options. Help us help you keep informed. Sign up for EasyUpdate®, our messaging service. If your ﬂight is canceled or delayed, EasyUpdate® will inform you. Enroll at united.com/easyupdate. At home? Go to united. com for information or to check-in and print your boarding pass. Your safety and satisfaction are important. We appreciate your business and apologize for any inconvenience you may have experienced.

STAYING FIT: INFLIGHT FLEXIBILITY Knee Flexion: Lift knee toward chest, decreasing the amount of joint space at back of the knee. Repeat with other leg.

Dorsiﬂexion: With heel on ﬂoor, point toes upward, decreasing the angle between the foot and front of the leg. Repeat with other foot.

Eversion: With foot on ﬂoor, gently roll the sole of the foot inward. Repeat with other foot.

Knee Extension: Straighten knee, increasing the amount of joint space at the back of the knee to its full range. Repeat with other leg.

Plantar Flexion: Lift the heel and keep toes pointed toward the ﬂoor, increasing the angle between the top of the foot and front of the leg. Repeat with other foot.

Inversion: With foot on ﬂoor, gently roll the sole of the foot outward. Repeat with other foot.

R1_P121HEM_0411ContactInfo.indd 1

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TERMINAL DIAGRAMS DOMESTIC & OVERSEAS United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite

IAH

United Easy Check-In/Customer Service Center Medical Center Interterminal Train (Security Clearance Required) Interterminal Train (Gate to Gate)

International Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop/Train Stop

HOUSTON GEORGE BUSH INTERCONTINENTAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

TERMINAL C Continental United United Express

TERMINAL A TERMINAL B Continental Express United Express

TerminaLink

C15 4

C14

TERMINAL D Continental Lufthansa Singapore Airlines

USO

C27

C35 C36

C41 C40

C39

2 D1 3

E7 E6

E15

TERMINAL E Continental

E24

E2 E3

? 1

4 C4

C42 2

C37

EWR

? C34

South Concourse

C29

(Lower Level)

TERMINAL A (South Concourse) US Airways

International Arrivals 2

B67 B66 B65 B64 B63A B63

A19 A20

B60 B61 B62 B62A

A24

A25

(Lower Level)

Station

A26

B68 B75 B69 B74 B70 B73 B71 B72A B71A B72

Station

A17

1 1

Connects Terminals A, B, C, D, & E via train

A18

A D6

A D4

3 2

C16

C21

C23

1 2

C17

C20

C22

A2 A1

B86

B87 B88

B86A

North Concourse

B85A B85 B84A-S

Bus Station (A2)

A15 B79A B80 B79 A11 B77A A9 B81A B81 B77 A8 B76A B83A A7 B83 B76 Station

A14 A12 A10

C18 C19

D1 D2

(North Concourse)

Continental Connection Air Canada

E23 3

E16

E22

E17

E21

E18

E20 E19

NEW YORK/NEWARK LIBERTY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

R1_P122_124HEM0411TerminalDiagrams.indd 1

02/03/2011 16:52

123

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | APRIL 2011

Transfer Shuttle (Gate to Gate) Walking Time in Minutes* Shuttle Stop

Immigration Baggage Claim Animal Relief Area

Ticketing/Check-in/Transfer Presidents Club Customer Service Center

*Walk times are approximate and may vary depending on individual walking speed and time of day.

ORD

CHICAGO/Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;HARE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

DEN

DENVER INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

Concourse F

Concourse G

Concourse H

F14 F12 F11 F10 F9 F8 F7 F6 F5 F4 F3 F2 F1

EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

Concourse E

E3 E2A E2 E1A E1

(Lower Level)

Concourse K

TE R M I N A L 2 United Air Canada US Airways

TE R M I N A L 3

Concourse L Elevated Airport Transport System

Concourse B

Concourse C

E10

C28-C39

Continental United US Airways

C2 C1 C4 C6 C3 C8 C5 C10 C7 C12 C9 C16 C11 B3 C18 B2 B4 C15 C18A B1 C17 B5 C20 B6 C22 C19 B7 C24 C21 B8 C26 C23 C28 C25 B9 C30 B10 C27 C32 B11 C29C31 B12 B13 TE R M I N A L 1 B14 B15 Continental B16 (Gates B1-B4) B17 United B18 B19 ANA B20 Lufthansa B22 B21

B15 B17

Train

B21

B59, A-L

B23-B29 B16 B18

Concourse C

C40-C50

B31-B37

B38-B45

B46-B53

B54-B60

B22

B61, A-K

Concourse A Air Canada Lufthansa

A24-A39

A40-A53 A58-A68

Pedestrian Bridge TERMINAL WEST

TERMINAL EAST

Concourse B Concourse M TE R M I N A L 5 International

United, ANA, Asiana Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa, Scandinavian Airlines, SWISS, Turkish Airlines

SFO

IAD

SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

WASHINGTON/DULLES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

Concourse C

TE R M I N A L 2

United Air Canada

Train

Concourse D United Gates D1-D30

Gates C1-C28 Gates 40-48 Gates 60-67 A2

TE R M I N A L 3

United Air Canada

TE R M I N A L 1 Continental US Airways

Shuttle

Gates 68-90

Gates 20-36

(Lower Level) Transfer Shuttle

Gates G91-G102

I N T E R N A T I O N A L TE R M I N A L

A14

A22

A15

A21

Concourse A Continental United Copa Airlines South African Airways Virgin Atlantic

A25

A32

B38-B48

B35-B51 Shuttle Bus

Z Gates

US Airways 1-4

B63-B79

Concourse B ANA Austrian Airlines Lufthansa Scandinavian Airlines Turkish Airlines

MAIN TERMINAL

Gates A1-A12

United, Air China, Air New Zealand, ANA, Asiana Airlines, EVA Air, Lufthansa, Singapore Airlines, SWISS, Virgin Atlantic

R1_P122_124HEM0411TerminalDiagrams.indd 2

02/03/2011 16:52

TERMINAL DIAGRAMS

CLE

CLEVELAND HOPKINS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

LAX

C17

C18

Continental Continental Express United United Express Air Canada

C16

C19

C11

C14

C20 1

C21

C22

C10

C23

C25

C27

12 8 4B

TO M B R A D L E Y I N T E R N A T I O N A L TE R M I N A L ANA, Asiana Airlines, EVA Air, Lufthansa, Singapore Airlines, SWISS, THAI, Turkish Airlines

Underground Tunnel

71A

67A 67B

60 62 64 66 68A

D3 D2

D4 D6 D5 2

D7 D9 D8

TE R M I N A L 1 US Airways

(Lower Level)

TE R M I N A L 2 Air Canada Air China Air New Zealand Virgin Atlantic

(Lower Level) 4

C26

D10 D12 D11 1 D14

C29

C24

TE R M I N A L 3

LOS ANGELES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

Concourse C

69A

TE R M I N A L 4

TE R M I N A L 5

D28

Concourse D

71B 73

80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88

70A 70B 72

75A 75B 77

68B

69B TE R M I N A L 6 Continental United Copa Airlines

74 76

TE R M I N A L 7 TE R M I N A L 8 United United

Continental Express Continental Connection

D25 D21 D17

US Airways and some Continental international flights arrive at Concourse A. NRT

Fourth Floor 43 42 44

41 38

45 46

GUM

TOKYO/NARITA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

35 36

Third Floor 27

Satellite 2

Security Checkpoint

MAIN TERMINAL Continental

32 47

CafÃ©

North Wing

South Wing TERMINAL 1 Continental United Air Canada Air China 51 ANA 52 53 Asiana Airlines 54 Austrian Airlines EGYPTAIR 55 Lufthansa 56 Scandinavian Airlines Singapore Airlines 57 SWISS THAI 58 Turkish Airlines

FRA

GUAM INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

4 5 17

Food Court

19 21

20 12

(Lower Level)

15 11

Satellite 1

Air New Zealand flights arrive/depart at Terminal 2.

LHR

LONDON/HEATHROW INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

United Aegean Airlines Air New Zealand Asiana Airlines Austrian Airlines

FRANKFURT INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

bmi Brussels Airlines Croatia Airlines LOT Polish Airlines Lufthansa

South African Airways SWISS TAM Airlines TAP Portugal US Airways

Heathrow Express Sky Line Train Gates E1-E26

Gates D1-D54

B47 B48 B42

B45 B44 B43 B1-B41

Pier D

B27 B28 B23

Pier B

B26

B25 B24 B22

TERMINAL 1

Lufthansa Tower Lounge (Level 5)

B10-B20

er C

Gates C1-C9

TE R M I N A L 2

Pier E

B46

Gates A1-A65

Pedestrian Tunnel

Continental United Aegean Airlines Adria Airways Air Canada Air China ANA Asiana Airlines

R1_P122_124HEM0411TerminalDiagrams.indd 3

TE R M I N A L 1

Austrian Airlines Croatia Airlines EGYPTAIR LOT Polish Airlines Lufthansa Scandinavian Airlines Singapore Airlines

South African Airways Spanair SWISS TAM Airlines TAP Portugal THAI Turkish Airlines US Airways

TERMINAL 5

TERMINAL 3 Air Canada Air China ANA Blue1 EGYPTAIR Emirates Scandinavian Airlines Singapore Airlines THAI Turkish Airlines Virgin Atlantic

Transfer Shuttle

TERMINAL 4 Continental Gates 1-25

Secureside and non-secureside buses serve all terminals

02/03/2011 16:53

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | APRIL 2011

125

GLOBAL REACH. WORLDWIDE RECOGNITION. EXCELLENT TRAVEL SERVICES. United Airlines has partnered with Star Alliance to provide seamless air travel around the world. Star Alliance is the world’s largest global airline alliance, with more than 21,000 daily flights departing to more than 1,100 destinations. United customers have access to a comprehensive global network, frequent-flyer and elite travel benefits, and worldwide lounge access on all Star Alliance member airlines.

ALLIANCES AND PARTNERSHIPS STAR ALLIANCE AIRLINE PARTNERS

STAR ALLIANCE Established in 1997 as the ﬁrst

truly global airline alliance to offer customers a worldwide travel network that aims to provide customers a seamless travel experience across multiple airlines. Today the Star Alliance network offers more than 21,000 daily ﬂights to 1,100 destinations in 181 countries. EARN MILEAGE PLUS® MILES AND ELITE STATUS FASTER

With the largest airline alliance, you can earn miles almost anywhere in the world you fly. Miles can be earned on most fares on almost any Star Alliance flight and can be credited to your Mileage Plus account. Plus the flight miles will count toward elite status in Mileage Plus. EARN RECOGNITION AROUND THE WORLD The more

miles you fly with United and the Star Alliance airlines, the higher your Mileage Plus elite status can be: Premier®, Premier Executive® or 1K®. Mileage Plus elite status is recognized across the alliance as either Star Alliance Silver or Star Alliance Gold, with travel benefits worldwide. See united.com/staralliance for the Star Silver and Star Gold benefits you can receive. AWARD TRAVEL IS NOW EASIER With Star Alliance

Awards, you can use your Mileage Plus miles for award travel on any Star Alliance carrier worldwide. Or use them for Star Alliance Upgrade Awards and upgrade to a premium cabin and travel in comfort (available on most Star Alliance airlines).

OTHER AIRLINE PARTNERS

You can earn and redeem miles on many of our other airline partners. See united.com/airlinepartners for speciﬁc information about each of our other airline partners. Aer Lingus Continental Connection Emirates Great Lakes Hawaiian Airlines

P125HEM0411PartnersandAlliances.indd 1

Island Air Jet Airways Qatar Airways TACA Group

02/03/2011 16:49

126 | APRIL 2011 | HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

CROSSWORD AROUND THE WORLD AND BEYOND IF YOU FILL IN THE CROSSWORD PLEASE TAKE THE MAGAZINE WITH YOU SO IT’S REPLACED. // ANSWERS FOUND ON P. 57

ALL THEME CLUES ARE IN BOLD

96. Welt 97. A silly, empty-headed person 101. Not a soul 105. Roman sun god 107. Stockholder? 109. Rocks 111. Served at 32 across 112. Thread holder 114. Popular 115. Setting of many jokes 116. He should have been on time heading up the St. Lawrence 118. Vermilion 120. Parlor piece 122. Rose 123. Inn serving 124. A necessary or essential thing 125. Best of the best 126. Unstable 127. Four-poster, e.g. 128. Square footage, e.g. 129. Moisten 130. Simplicity DOWN 1. Springtime rain 2. Roast offering 3. Illegal trading 4. Itsy-bitsy 5. ____ Tuesday (Mardi Gras) 6. Misprints 7. Heighten 8. Oust 9. ____ de deux 10. Google rival 11. Scare 12. A type of factor 13. Brief tussle 14. Façade 15. Not theirs 16. KISS member 17. Lawn mower’s path 24. Direct 25. Chapeau 26. Kind of tank 28. Rover 33. Sushi selection 36. Possess 38. Beginning of a conclusion 40. Piña colada ingredient 41. Lock opener 43. Heavy hydrogen, e.g. 45. Layer

46. 47. 48. 49. 50. 52. 53. 57. 59. 61. 62. 64. 65. 66. 67.

Bridge site Leased Tic Rigatoni, e.g. Lazybones Cajun cuisine The prime minister of Canada, for one Tell a whopper Red-faced Bow Traditional conservative Late bloomer Zodiac animal Bay window Boldness

68. 71. 74. 75. 77. 81. 83. 84. 85. 86. 88. 89. 91. 95. 98. 99.

Inexperienced Hound Bookie’s quote Soup vegetable It may be ﬁt for a queen Storm production Fiddle stick One in a suit Flavored Bar Central position Leave off Gunk Inactivity Marriageable Expecting

100. Condemn 102. Purposeless or pointless 103. Wanting 104. Teacup handle 106. Andean animal 107. Period 108. Major artery 110. Social status 112. Sign of healing 113. Heap 117. Spinning toys 119. Sticker 120. Miss Reynolds, for short 121. Fresh

ACROSS 1. Rod at a pig roast 5. Sick and tired 10. Swerves 14. Driving danger 17. Excelled 18. Gladiator setting 19. Lip balm ingredient 20. French way 21. Unfavorable prognosis 22. Headlock 23. A spring-ﬂowering shrub 25. Fought against the Spanish Armada 27. Jungle swinger 28. Negative joiner 29. Wound up 30. Put away 31. Salon job 32. An afternoon restaurant 34. Stable staple 35. Suffering 37. Imaginary 39. Dismal 42. Pen 44. Slat 47. Scallywag 48. Wheel of Fortune choice 51. Croon 53. A song that was formerly popular 54. Foe 55. Steno’s need 56. Supernatural practices and techniques 58. Pizzazz 60. Not on the level? 63. Give off, as light 64. A giant leap for mankind 69. Not mono 70. Lima and kidney 72. Listener 73. He had a yen for Chinese food 76. Light bulb unit 78. Look up to 79. Grant 80. Certain discrimination 82. New Year’s ____ 83. Must have a deep voice 87. Evil one 90. Bank posting 91. Secluded valley 92. Neptune’s realm 93. Light milk 94. Ham’s need

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R1_P126HEM0411Crossword.indd 1

07/03/2011 15:31

Since 1988, BROWN HAND CENTER has been the destination of choice for patients from around the world who expect world class comfort and care. BROWN HAND CENTER is where The Brown Procedure was developed and where so many published medical journal articles originated, answering questions that others could only ask. BROWN HAND CENTER is the expert in carpal tunnel treatment, as well as all problems affecting the hand and upper extremity, such as arthritic joint problems, injuries and secondary reconstruction, replantation of amputated parts, and congenital birth deformities. When possible, the approach is minimally invasive to reduce patient pain, suffering and recovery time. The Brown Endoscopic Trigger Release (BETR) is another of the many innovations from Brown Hand Center used to treat a common problem, trigger finger. Similar to The Brown Procedure, The BETR utilizes two tiny skin openings to insert instrumentation (designed by Michael G. Brown, MD) to divide the A1 pulley, rather than cutting through normal tissue layers. This “minimally invasive” approach at BROWN HAND CENTER has allowed countless thousands of patients to return to normal activity in a relatively short period following an outpatient procedure. Many have returned home, thousands of miles away to other countries, the following day.

At BROWN HAND CENTER, we maintain a philosophy of respect and kindness that guides everything we do. Often taken for granted, as we take our sight or hearing for granted, the hands are among the most complex parts of the body and loss of use is sorely missed and irreperable damage may be sustained if specialized care is not received. We want you to receive specialized care from the beginning, not just after a complication.

St. Michael’s Surgery Center, Houston

BROWN HAND CENTER physicians, specialists in hand and upper extremity care, are available 24/7. From children born with congenital birth deformities, sports injuries, to arthritis and other intrinsic diseases of the hand...Brown Hand Center’s Hand and Microvascular surgeons are EXPERTS IN NOT ONLY HAND, BUT ALSO WRIST, ARM, ELBOW AND SHOULDER PR always on a minimally invasive approach, when possible, to minimize discomfort and recovery time. BROWN HAND CENTER’S ideal is to make available to all the specialized care of a highly skilled and trained hand/microvascular surgeon and to help others understand this specialized field. BROWN HAND CENTER’S message is seen in television and magazine ads worldwide.

800.214.4263 (HAND) Nationwide Locations

www.brownhandcenter.com

No.31043_Brown_Hand_Center 1pp.indd 1

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128 | APRIL 2011 | HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

SUDOKU THE NUMBERS GAME

MEDIUM

HARD

P128HEM0411Sudoku.indd 1

EASY

ANSWERS

MEDIUM

BY REIKO MCLAUGHLIN

07/03/2011 15:32

Maybe it’s time to outsource… your dating life

Navigating today’s complex dating scene can be daunting, and busy professionals often wonder who to turn to for advice. We sat down with It’s Just Lunch dating expert PJ Osgood to discuss the difﬁculties of dating for singles on the go. Here’s some of the savvy advice she gives to her clients.

Why is dating so challenging these days for career-focused singles? Let’s face it—dating is challenging for everyone! Throw a demanding professional or family life into the mix, and you can understand why someone hires IJL. Dating feels difﬁcult because time is valuable, and it isn’t easy to efﬁciently manage a fruitful dating life. With our help, clients go out on dates with someone who already meets their essential requirements. That way, the only thing left to be determined is the chemistry.

What type of person uses It’s Just Lunch? Clients come to me because the process of finding someone on their own can be overwhelming. Meeting people through family, friends, or online requires a lot of time and often doesn’t deliver results. Instead, they join IJL because they are ready to be proactive and want to take a professional approach to ﬁnding their compatible match.

So, that’s why they come to IJL? To meet their match?

“Great guys and women don’t circle around your block waiting for you to come out of your house. You’ve got to market yourself.”

Absolutely! Our clients come to IJL because they have reached a point where they want to ﬁnd someone special. They hire us as results-driven dating specialists. People hire professionals to handle so many aspects of their lives, so why not use a professional to help you ﬁnd someone special? We are matchmaking professionals —this is what we do day in and day out. We take a personal approach and remain objective. A successful love life for our clients is our goal.

What really differentiates IJL from the other dating options out there? My clients look to me as their personal dating headhunter. At IJL, we meet with our clients face to face and identify the key characteristics they are looking for in a match. We learn what has and hasn’t worked for them in the past and put a positive plan in place. Then we introduce them to other like-minded singles in a casual, lowpressure ﬁrst date setting where they can truly be themselves. Because in the end, it’s just lunch!

IT’S JUST LUNCH has professional dating specialists just like PJ all around the world. Call us and discover how we can help you create a more rewarding dating life today. Alabama • Arizona • Arkansas • California • Colorado • Connecticut • Delaware • Florida • Georgia • Idaho • Illinois • Indiana • Iowa • Kansas • Kentucky • Louisiana • Maine • Maryland • Massachusetts • Michigan • Minnesota • Mississippi • Missouri • Nebraska • Nevada • New Jersey • New Mexico • New York • North Carolina • Ohio • Oklahoma • Oregon • Pennsylvania • Rhode Island • South Carolina • Tennessee • Texas • Utah • Virginia • Washington • Washington DC • Wisconsin • Canada • Ireland • Australia • Thailand • Singapore

Real People. Real Dates.

No.230683_IJL.indd 1

Sara Darling

Betty Sinclair

Amy Brinkman

Visit ITSJUSTLUNCH.COM or call 1.800.858.6526

30/11/2010 14:56

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11/03/2011 19:59

SIT FRONT AND CENTER for your favorite Broadway blockbuster. Cruise a crooked river at sunset or commune with Costa Rican butterﬂies. Sample ethnic delicacies at a bustling public market. Ride the vintage rails of a scenic railroad through a national park. Dine in the restaurant of a celeb chef. Shop for retro collectibles at a vintage toy store. Visit the home of gridiron greats. Admire the work of artistic masters and release your inner rock star at the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame. Discover the unexpected side of Cleveland Plus at www.positivelycleveland.com.

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11/03/2011 16:37

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GETTING TO KNOW YOU SABAS OJEDA RIVERA /

Student / 25 WHY I’M TRAVELING / I’m on my way from my home in Puebla, Mexico, to vacation in New York City. I’m planning to spend a lot of time eating, especially at Le Cirque. MY FAVORITE PLACES / I love

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136 PHOTOGRAPH BY SASHA NIALLA

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07/03/2011 15:01

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03/02/2011 10:42

premium offerings

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2 % , ! 8 ! . $ % . * / 9 9 / 5 2 & , ) ' ( 4

With a food philosophy centered around contemporary American cuisine and culinary partnerships which include world renowned Chef Charlie Trotter and restaurant favorite Trader Vic’s, United offers traditional dishes with a modern twist, while also providing regional and ethnic items. Our new pasta salads feature fresh ingredients and authentic flavors. Try our Pacific Rim Grilled Asian Sesame Chicken Pasta Salad, available in United First® and United Business® on select domestic snack flights.

Did you know?

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Nothing says welcome aboard like our warmed mixed nuts. Each year, over 3 million United premium cabin customers begin their journey with this signature starter. That’s equivlent to 115 tons of savory indulgence.

WENTE VINEYARDS MORNING FOG CHARDONNAY 2009 LIVERMORE VALLEY –

while morning fog is a feature in the vineyards of the eastern Bay Area, with or without that fog, that part of the California coast cools off precipitously at night and that cooling provides otherwise fat Chardonnay with refreshing acidity. Such crispness lends itself to many different foods, as the wine doesn’t overwhelm the food, but the food doesn’t overpower the wine either.

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08/03/2011 17:52

AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE ON MOST NORTH AMERICAN FLIGHTS, EXCLUDING UNITED EXPRESS.ÂŽ

bundles ON MOST AFTERNOON AND EVENING FLIGHTS

3AVE UP TO

3!.$7)#( "5.$,% $12.98 Your choice of one of our sandwiches with any beer or house wine.

#(%%3% !.$ 7).% "5.$,% $11.98 Assorted cheese tray with your choice of house red or white wine.

4!0!3 !.$ 7).% "5.$,% $11.98 Tapas snack box with your choice of house red or white wine.

breakfast ON MOST MORNING FLIGHTS OVER 3 HOURS

&25)4 !.$ 9/'524 0!2&!)4 $ 5.49

&25)4 #(%%3% 42!9 $ 6.99

Low fat vanilla yogurt with fruit and granola.

Pepper jack, gouda, cheddar, dried fruit, almonds, and assorted Pepperidge Farm ÂŽ crackers.

(!- !.$ 37)33 #2/)33!.4 $ 5.49 Served with dijonnaise sauce (served cold).

Kettle ClassicsÂŽ potato chips served with Sandwiches and Wraps

lunch & dinner ON MOST AFTERNOON AND EVENING FLIGHTS OVER 3 HOURS

4(!) #()#+%. 72!0 $ 9.49

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Grilled chicken breast, romaine lettuce, carrots, red and yellow bell pepper, Thai aioli sauce wrapped in a tortilla.

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(!- 3!.$7)#( $ 8.99

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Honey ham, provolone cheese, lettuce, mustard mayonnaise on a pretzel roll.

Pepper jack, gouda, cheddar, dried fruit, almonds, and assorted Pepperidge Farm ÂŽ crackers.

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#2!."%229 7!,.54 "2%!$ $ 2.99

Ă la carte

02).',%3 Â&#x201C; $ 2.99 (2.6 oz can)

United does not serve peanuts as snacks or use peanuts or peanut oils in foods served on our ďŹ&#x201A;ights. However, we do serve vendor products manufactured in facilities that also produce items containing peanuts or peanut oils, and we do have snack mixes that contain other tree nuts, such as almonds and pistachios.

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#(/#/,/6%Â&#x201C; #(/#/,!4% "!2 $ 2.99 Almond & Sea Salt Dark Chocolate or Milk Chocolate.

Your feedback is welcomed via UALSURVEY COM within seven days of your flight. United, Choice Menu, and EasyPurchase are trademarks of United. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. We apologize if your selection is not available on todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ďŹ&#x201A;ight.

10/03/2011 09:32

snack boxes DELICIOUS SNACK ITEMS AVAILABLE ON MOST FLIGHTS OVER 2.5 HOURS

beverages Save $2 on select beverages when you use your Continental Airlines Chase MasterCard ® Credit or Debit Card. NON-ALCOHOLIC Complimentary on all Continental flights. AVA IL A B L E O N M O ST FLIG H T S

• Coca-Cola, Coca-Cola Zero, Diet Coke

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• Seagram’s: Ginger Ale, Seltzer Water, Tonic Water †

• Minute Maid: Apple Juice, Cranberry Apple Juice Cocktail, Orange Juice †

Sea Salt Pita Chips Azar Fruit & Nut Mix Granola Bar Crackers Hormel Salami

• Peppercorn Parmesan Cheese Spread • Oloves Marinated Olives • Plain Hummus

3!6/29 3.!#+ "/8 $ 6.95 • • • •

Tortilla Chips Mild Salsa Oloves Marinated Olives Azar Fruit & Nut Mix

• Sprite, Sprite Zero • Fresh Brew’s Gourmet Coast to Coast Roast

• Mott’s Tomato Juice

3%,%#4 3.!#+ "/8 $ 7.95 • • • • •

• Pibb Xtra

• Mr. & Mrs. T’s Bloody Mary Mix

(Regular & Decaffeinated)

• Lipton Hot Tea

AVA IL A B L E O N S EL ECT FL I G H T S

• Emilio Italian Cappuccino §

• Guarana Kuat

• Emilio Italian Espresso §

• Oolong Tea

ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES

• Granola Bar • Pepperidge Farm Goldfish • Oreo Cookies

BEER

6 / $ 4 † (with qualifying Credit/Debit Card)

AVA IL A B L E O N M O ST FLIG H T S

Corona Extra, Heineken, Miller Lite AVA IL A B L E O N S EL ECT FL I G H T S

#,!33)# 3.!#+ "/8 5.95

Asahi, Gold Star, Tsing Tao

• • • •

Azar Fruit & Nut Mix Chex Mix Chocolate Chunk Bar Crackers Pepperidge Farm Goldfish

• Gourmet Cheddar Cheese Spread • Chips Ahoy 100-Calorie Thin Crisps

HOUSE WINES

7 / $ 5 † (with qualifying Credit/Debit Card)

AVA IL A B L E O N M O ST FLIG H T S

Red and White AVA IL A B L E O N S EL ECT FL I G H T S

J.P. Chenet Sparkling

-).) 3.!#+ 0!#+ $ 4.50 • Kind Almond & Apricot Bar • Yogurt Raisin Fruit Snack • Crackers

SPIRITS

• Gourmet Cheddar Cheese Spread

*Item is offered on select flights only.

7 / $5

(with qualifying Credit/Debit Card)

AVA IL A B L E O N M O ST FLIG H T S

• Bombay Sapphire Gin

• Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey

• Canadian Club Reserve

• Jim Beam

• Dewar’s White Label Scotch

• Skyy Vodka

• Bacardi Light Rum

AVA IL A B L E O N S EL ECT FL I G H T S

specialty beverages $

9 / $7

• Crown Royal Whisky

• The Glenlivet Scotch

• NOBU “The Sake” Jyunmai Daiginjo

• Salvador’s Premixed Margaritas

(with qualifying Credit/Debit Card)

LIQUEURS

7 / $5

(with qualifying Credit/Debit Card)

34)22).'3 -/*)4/

AVA IL A B L E O N M O ST FLIG H T S

Stirrings® Mojito mix* — an all-natural blend of lime juice, cane sugar and mint. Served with Bacardi Light Rum on ice.

• Baileys Irish Cream

34)22).'3 0/-%'2!.!4% -!24).)

• Grand Marnier

• Noval Late Bottled Vintage Port

• Kahlúa

• Vista Alegre LBV Port 2003

Stirrings® Pomegranate mix* — an all-natural blend of pomegranate, lemon and cane sugar. Served with Skyy Vodka on ice. *Stirrings Mojito or Pomegranate Martini mix can be purchased separately for $2. Two currency coupons are required for the purchase of Stirrings Mojito or Pomegranate Martini.

• Courvoisier VSOP Cognac

AVA IL A B L E O N S EL ECT FL I G H T S

• Disaronno Amaretto

• One currency coupon is required for the purchase of beer, wine, spirits and liqueurs. • Spirits, wines, beers, and liqueurs are complimentary in First Class and BusinessFirst. However, Specialty Beverages carry a charge in the First Class and BusinessFirst cabins. • Special wine selections are available in First Class, BusinessFirst, and Economy. Please ask a flight attendant about availability. † On international flights, Continental may substitute regional specialties for the regular beverage selections. § Available in BusinessFirst on 777 and 767 flights only. Most Continental-operated flights accept Credit/Debit Cards only. Use your Continental Airlines Chase MasterCard Credit or Debit Card for onboard purchases and save $2 on specialty and alcoholic beverage purchases. MasterCard is a registered trademark of MasterCard International Incorporated.

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08/03/2011 17:54

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