United Airlines Hemispheres Magazine November 2009

HEMISPHERES SHINING EVEN BRIGHTER — CONTINENTAL JOINS STAR ALLIANCE // PAGE 13 PLUS: THREE PERFECT DAYS: NEW ORLEANS—REBUILDING ONE BRUSHSTROKE AT A TIME IS THE AÇAI BERRY CRAZE DOING MORE HARM THAN GOOD?

A STAR ALLIANCE MEMBER

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UNITED.COM | HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

contents

HAIL BERRY

The antioxidant-rich wonderfruit açai has surged in popularity. Can its source, the Brazilian Amazon, sustain the demand?

BY EDWARD LEWINE ILLUSTRATIONS BY KAKO

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PRESENT PERFECT Forget socks

and ties. We searched the globe for the most stunning and unusual gifts, and the results will please everyone on your list.

BY ADAM K. RAYMOND

84

THREE PERFECT DAYS: NEW ORLEANS Reborn after

Hurricane Katrina, New Orleans is still a city with amazing food and music, quirky shops and bars, beautiful architecture and a true sense of history.

BY ETHAN BROWN

P H O T O G R A P H BY C O R B I S / P H O T O L I B R A RY

A view from the Royal Café in New Orleans’ French Quarter

Few who enter New Orleans leave the same.

It has, as the song goes, “been the ruin of many a poor boy.”

3PD: NEW ORLEANS | P. 84

YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY

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NOVEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

departments

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8 Contributors 13 Voices Mark Schwab, United’s senior VP of alliances, works to strengthen bonds with carriers around the world.

16 Wish You Were Here DISPATCHES 19 Notes From All Over New York’s museums battle it out—literally; the end (of the Mayan calendar) is near; an icy reception in Berlin; cheetah prints are all the rage in Namibia; and you don’t have to keep your pawpaws to yourself in Ohio.

DIRECTIONS 25 News Where to stay, what to see, when to go.

31 Whereabouts Mary J. Blige escapes to Cabo San Lucas and Portofino, Italy.

32 Whirlwind Five hours in Mexico City

CULTURE 35 Haute Topic High fashion has an upbeat answer to a down economy.

By Sarah Horne

55 A Moveable Feast Roving restaurant Outstanding in the Field takes farm-to-table very literally.

By Gillian Telling

37 Live and Learn A Chicago sports photographer and his wife have a novel hobby: educating Cambodian children and lifting them out of poverty.

By Layla Schlack

59 A Passage Through India An auto-rickshaw might be the most uncomfortable way to see the subcontinent. It’s also the best.

By Richard Knapp

101 Play Movies, television and audio programming

40 Arrested Developments Why are the hottest directors in Hollywood taking on children’s classics?

By Gene Seymour

124 Beverages & Food

42 Austen’s Powers Nearly two centuries after her death, Jane Austen still haunts the bestseller list. // By Gillian Fassel

John Hendrix // johnhendrix.com Illustrator John Hendrix’s insightful rendition of paint-by-numbers depicted on this month’s cover conveys the dramatic vision of a rebuilt and reinvigorated New Orleans.

51 Beautiful Losers A fan of a football underdog tries to find joy in supporting a winning team.

By Jason Gay

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112 Route Maps and Terminal Diagrams

126 Crossword, sudoku and quiz 130 In Transit Who’s sitting next to you?

45 Warped Drive The new V-10 Audi R8 handles some dangerous curves. // By Mike Guy 47 Handy Work Online craft market Etsy has capitalized on its homespun image. With more than three million members, can it stay true to its roots? // By Layla Schlack

COVER IMAGE

65 Artifact A souvenir from the field

38 Bridging the Persian Gulf Iranian composer Hafez Nazeri brings his take on traditional music to New York. // By Jenny Eliscu

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68 Jay St. Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 SUBSCRIBE TO HEMISPHERES

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C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P : P H O T O G R A P H S BY A N D R E A W Y N E R , C O U R T E SY O F F OX S E A R C H L I G H T P I C T U R E S , C O U R T E SY O F AU D I

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Earn 1,200 United Mileage Plus® miles from Bose when you order QuietComfort 15 headphones by November 30, 2009.

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Then, your credit card will be billed for 11 equal monthly installments beginning approximately one month from the date your order is shipped, with 0% APR and no interest charges from Bose. Credit card rules and interest may apply. U.S. residents only. Limit one active financing program per customer. ©2009 Bose Corporation. Patent rights issued and/or pending. The distinctive design of the headphone oval ring is a trademark of Bose Corporation. Financing and Mileage Plus® bonus miles offer not to be combined with other offers or applied to previous purchases, and subject to change without notice. Offer valid 11/1/09-11/30/09. Purchasers must use the phone number or website above to receive this offer. Risk free refers to 30-day trial only and does not include return shipping. Delivery is subject to product availability. Mileage Plus offer valid only on product advertised. The 1,200 miles for above Bose product advertised are awarded in place of the standard Bose offer. If a different product is purchased, the standard offer of 2 Mileage Plus miles for every U.S. dollar spent will be honored. Miles accrued and awards issued are subject to the rules of the United Mileage Plus® program. United, its subsidiaries, affiliates and agents are not responsible for any products and services of other participating companies or partners. Please allow 6 to 8 weeks after completed qualifying activity for bonus miles to be posted to your Mileage Plus account. Bonus miles and miles earned through non-flight activity do not count toward elite status. Bonus mile offers are subject to change without notice. Taxes and fees related to award travel are the responsibility of the passenger. United may change Mileage Plus Program rules, regulations, travel awards and special offers or terminate the Mileage Plus program at any time and without notice. Mileage Plus participation may not be permitted in some countries. United and Mileage Plus are registered service marks. C_007915

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NOVEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

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contributors

HEMISPHERES EDITOR IN CHIEF Aaron Gell EXECUTIVE EDITOR Mike Guy ASSOCIATE EDITORS Adam K. Raymond, Layla Schlack ART DIRECTOR Rob Hewitt DESIGNER Ellie Clayman PHOTO EDITOR Erin Giunta

The author’s most recent book, Shake the Devil Off, explores a murder in New Orleans—a far cry from “Three Perfect Days” (page 84). “New Orleans is a deeply unique place—that’s why I moved here from New York in 2007,” says the Crescent City transplant. “There is a staggering level of culture in this tiny city, so living here you feel as though you’re surrounded by greatness.”

Brown has also contributed to Wired and Vibe, among

ETHAN BROWN

JASON GAY A Boston-area native who grew up before the Red Sox broke their curse, Gay knows a thing or two about rooting for the underdog (page 51). “The Celtics haven’t been the same since they got air-conditioning,” he says, “and I cannot get used to the idea of Gisele Bündchen going to Patriots games.” Gay is a contributing editor at GQ and a sports columnist at The Wall Street Journal.

The food, travel and lifestyle photographer has worked for Budget Travel, Body+Soul, Wine Spectator and Cooking Light, in addition to shooting the Outstanding in the Field cookbook that inspired “A Moveable Feast” (page 55). “I took my first photo class in seventh grade at a performing arts school in Los Angeles,” she says. “I’ve been at it ever since.”

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Jane Black, Jason Fine, Porter Fox, Jason Gay, Sarah Horne, Edward Lewine, Willa Paskin, Matt Thompson CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS Claire Benoist, Spencer Heyfron, John Lawton, Graham Roumieu EDITORIAL INTERNS Tiffanie Green, Ashley Venable PHOTO INTERN Valeria Suasnavas GROUP EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Michael Keating US EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Orion Ray-Jones INK PUBLISHING, 68 Jay Street, Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 TEL: +1 347-294-1220 FAX: +1 917-591-6247

Hemispheres.ed@ink-publishing.com hemispheresmagazine.com ONLINE TEAM Salah Lababidi, Martin Buhr, Andy Shaw ADVERTISING PUBLISHER Steve Andrews SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGERS Al Loise, Catherine Hanson, Cynthia Carns, Emily Anton, Issac Ingram, Jonathan Ebert, Jorge Abadi, Ryan Smith

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SE ASIA SHAZEEN.MOLEDINA@INK-PUBLISHING.COM

This month’s Hemispheres cover was a project near and dear to Hendrix, as New Orleans was the first place he and his wife visited together. “I was playing violin in the high school orchestra, and we participated in a competition there,” he says. “My future wife was in the choir.” Hendrix’s children’s book, John Brown: His Fight for Freedom, about the raid on Harper’s Ferry, was published last month.

JOHN HENDRIX

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EUROPE MARK.DUKE@INK-PUBLISHING.COM TEL: +44 20 7613 8796

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PRODUCTION CONTROLLER Grace Rivera TEL: +1 678-553-8080 EXT 135

Longtime film critic Seymour writes for Newsday, Los Angeles Times, The New York Times and The Washington Post. Of kiddie films, the subject of this month’s Vision column (page 40), he says, “I was a huge fan of the Freddy the Pig series when I was ten and would love to see someone really smart adapt it for the screen— which may be a lot to ask for.” His favorite family movies are Pinocchio and The Wizard of Oz.

GENE SEYMOUR

Ink Publishing (sales), Capital Building, 255 East Paces Ferry Road, Suite 400, Atlanta, GA 30305 TEL: +1 888-864-1733 FAX: +1 917-591-6247

INK PUBLISHING CEO Jeffrey O’Rourke COO Hugh Godsal PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Simon Leslie

HEMISPHERES is produced monthly by

The editor in chief of the travel guide Front Desk New York grew up primarily in Japan and Belgium. An international foodie, she lists among her most memorable meals “dining alongside the Mara River at the Masai Mara Reserve in Kenya, with nothing but hippos for company,” and the farm-fresh “A Moveable Feast” (page 55) she enjoyed for Hemispheres.

GILLIAN TELLING

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Ink Publishing. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions expressed in HEMISPHERES are not necessarily those of the Publisher or United Airlines, and United Airlines does not accept any responsibility for advertising content. Any images are supplied at the owner’s risk. Any mention of United Airlines or the use of United Airlines logo by any advertiser in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company or its products or services by United Airlines.

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Now you can use your miles in more ways than ever before.

ÂŽ

Š 2009 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Terms and conditions: Hotel and car awards are available to all Mileage Plus members. United reserves the right to revise member eligibility at any time. Each member must have sufficient Mileage Plus miles in his or her account to complete the entire transaction. Redemptions may only be made from a single account per transaction. Redemptions for hotel stays and car rentals are non-refundable. Additional taxes and fees may apply. For full terms and conditions visit united.com/hotelandcarawards. Miles redeemed under the Mileage Plus Hotel and Car Awards Program

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ALL MEMBERS CAN REDEEM MILES FOR:

Easily redeem your miles for hotels and cars.

• Hotel stays

Mileage Plus now lets all members turn miles into hotel stays

• Car rentals

and car rentals. Visit

• Air travel awards

now to book your travel.

®

united.com/hotelandcarawards

are subject to the rules of the United Mileage Plus program. United Saver Awards are currently redeemable at 25,000 miles within the U.S. (excluding Hawaii) and Canada, United Standard Awards are currently redeemable at 50,000 miles within the U.S. (excluding Hawaii) and Canada. Taxes and fees related to award travel are the responsibility of the passenger. United, its subsidiaries, affiliates and agents are not responsible for any products and services of any participating companies and partners. United and Mileage Plus are registered services marks. For complete details about the Mileage Plus program, visit united.com.

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2009

voices

PH OT OG RA PH BY U NIT ED AI RL I NE S CR EAT IVE S ERVIC E S

Alliances Bring Continents Even Closer On the advent of Continental Airlines joining the Star Alliance, United’s Mark F. Schwab talks about the importance of the event and building relationships across the globe—one flight at a time.

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// BY ROD O’CONNOR

13

RIO DE JANEIRO. NEW YORK CITY. BUENOS AIRES. MIAMI. MEXICO CITY. LONDON. TOKYO. CHICAGO. Those are just a few of the destinations easily reachable

via United’s comprehensive global network. They’re also a sampling of cities Mark F. Schwab, senior vice president of alliances, international and regulatory affairs for United, has called home during his 34 years in the aviation business.

Among his responsibilities is managing the airline’s role in the worldwide Star Alliance, a 25-plus-member group United helped launch in 1997 as the first truly global airline alliance. Last month, it welcomed its newest member: Houston-based Continental Airlines. Schwab says Continental’s partnership with United (which, along with US Airways, is the only other domestic member) makes the Star Alliance’s industryleading network even stronger.

“We really complement each other,” he notes, speaking on the phone from Tokyo during a break from a series of meetings with Japanese airline executives. “Not only do United customers gain easier access to Continental hubs in Houston, metropolitan New York (via Newark, New Jersey), and Cleveland, but Continental’s presence in Latin America adds significant reach into that region. They fly to more than thirty cities in Mexico alone—that’s comparable to some Mexican carriers.”

Customers of the two airlines will see multiple benefits even beyond the broader network reach, including a coordinated process for reservations and ticketing, check-in, flight connections and baggage transfer. They will also enjoy recognition in both carriers’ frequent flyer programs and access to their respective airport lounges. In addition, the two airlines will generate efficiencies to help both compete more

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voices

effectively for international traffic in an increasingly global air travel market.

“Continental joining Star Alliance represents an important win for all the member airlines and certainly for United’s valued travelers,” Schwab emphasizes. “Continental is a strong and well-regarded airline and was evaluating membership in all three global alliances, including continuing its former role within SkyTeam as well as oneworld, led by American Airlines and British Airways.

Continental joining Star makes the best even better,” he adds. “Collectively, the Star Alliance member airlines now offer the broadest scope and greatest choices of service in the entire world.”

To underscore the importance of this partnership between two of the nation’s top-performing airlines, Continental has also joined United—along with Lufthansa and Air Canada— in a separate, transatlantic joint venture, which officially launched on November 1.

This arrangement, known in industry terms as an antitrust immunized “Metal-Neutral” network, calls for members to pool revenues while integrating their scheduling, inventory management, pricing, frequent flyer and sales activities on itineraries that include transatlantic segments. The expected end result for the customer is better service to and from Europe, as well as more competitive pricing.

Previously, a flight across the Atlantic with multiple stops on either side

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WITH CONTINENTAL OFFICIALLY JOINING THE STAR ALLIANCE on October 27, customers will see

multiple benefits, including a broader network reach and a coordinated process for reservations, check-in and baggage transfer, as well as recognition in both airlines’ frequent flyer programs and access to their respective airport lounges.

of the ocean was a fairly complicated transaction.

But now, thanks to this new joint venture, business and leisure travelers are going to experience everything from better-coordinated baggage handling procedures to seamless transfers among carriers.

“Metal neutrality— pertaining to whichever partners’ physical aircraft you fly on—means we’re going to offer you products that make your experience seamless,” explains Schwab.

“The decision you make works equally well [for all

of us], no matter which airline seat you actually sit in. As long as you fly on one of us, we’re happy.

Customers are going to find it’s a much simpler way to conduct business.”

Schwab’s deep experience working with government officials and local businesspeople, combined with a lifelong passion for exploring other parts of the world, has made him ideally suited to his current job: overseeing United’s portfolio of international and domestic relationships, as well as its regulatory policies.

“Continental joining Star Alliance represents an important win for all the member airlines and certainly for United’s valued travelers.”

Mark F. Schwab

A citizen of the world in the fullest sense of the term, Schwab has spent his entire career representing American business interests overseas. In fact, the 57-yearold Twin Cities native has lived outside the U.S. longer than he’s lived inside its borders. “I have a very understanding family,” he says with a laugh. “When I relocated to Chicago earlier this year, it was the twentieth time I’d moved. But I’ve enjoyed every minute of it.”

As we all know, the global business community can use all the help it can get right now. Taking some of the hassle out of air travel just might be the right tonic to help spur muchneeded growth. According to Schwab, the only way the worldwide economy is going to fight its way out

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of the current downturn is by creating new business opportunities. That means expanding access for U.S. corporations overseas to growing markets in Asia, Latin America and beyond, as well as making it easier for tourists from abroad to visit our shores.

From a business perspective, while many companies have cut their travel budgets to help control costs in the face of the recession, a recent study

by Oxford Economics shows that companies that invest in travel actually see $3.80 in new profits for every dollar spent on activities such as customer meetings and trade shows. But Schwab didn’t need to see the data to know that business travel and face-to-face meetings drive growth—he’s learned that firsthand during the economic ups and downs of the past three decades.

Schwab’s own professional career—and extensive travels—began shortly after his graduation from the University of Virginia in 1974, when he secured a job with Pan American World Airlines while living as an expat in Brazil.

“I genuinely believe that travel contributes to a better understanding of other people,” says Schwab. “And it creates more business opportunities. That’s what United’s alliances are doing: building on our strengths so we can all get our web deeper into the rest of the world.

“But you have to get on a plane and create the relationships,” he says. “We all have to get moving if we want to get the economy back in shape.”

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East Meets West

IN THE GLOBAL ECONOMY, air travel has increasingly become a worldwide business. Relationships with other carriers, most notably through United’s leadership role in the United and its Star Alliance, help expand the airline’s ability to provide fellow Star Alliance service around the world.

No market is more important than Asia. While it members make Asia a priority suffered during the financial crisis, the market is starting to bounce back, with healthy annual growth rates expected to return. That’s why United CEO Glenn F. Tilton and Mark F. Schwab have been traveling extensively to meet with their counterparts and regulatory officials to further strengthen United’s alliances with carriers in the region.

Their meetings have been happening in the midst of much commercial and regulatory activity. Perhaps most significant is the push for an Open Skies Air Services Agreement between the U.S. and Japanese governments.

After decades of restrictive regulatory policies, the two countries are set to conclude talks by the end of the year. An expanded agreement would allow United to work closer with current partner All Nippon Airways (ANA). During Tilton’s recent Asia trip, he met with the company’s president and CEO Shinichiro Ito to map out potential opportunities.

“ANA has been a Star Alliance member for ten years, but our business relationship has plateaued because of the regulatory environment,” Schwab explains. “They have a huge network throughout Asia, so an [Open Skies] agreement would greatly improve access for our customers.”

While United’s hubs in Los Angeles and San Francisco, as well as Chicago and Washington, D.C., provide excellent jumping off points to major cities like Beijing, Tokyo and Seoul, it’s also a priority for the airline to connect travelers with Bangkok, Taipei and Singapore, among others “Many of these places are just joining the global economy,” notes Graham Atkinson, president of Mileage Plus. “As a result, American businesspeople are “We are extremely pleased that seeing tremendous to expand Continental has joined us in the Star opportunity their horizons. But you Alliance. It is a key step forward in have to create those to enable providing the global connectivity the connections people to make those market place demands.” Glenn F. Tilton seamless journeys.”

Much of United’s strategy since cofounding the Star Alliance in 1997 has involved working with world-class airlines such as ANA, Singapore Airlines, Air China, Thai Airways and others to open up these new markets. And by loosening regulatory restrictions, Atkinson says, many of the hassles associated with inter-Asia travel can be eliminated, allowing for benefits like onestop ticketing, easier upgrades, and a better recognition of elite customers across all members.

But much hinges on developments in China. To this end, Tilton met with a number of policymakers and executives of carriers there as well. Included were Air China, also a Star Alliance member, and China Eastern, which recently acquired current member Shanghai Airlines, to encourage the combined carrier to join the alliance. United’s relationships with Chinese airlines will take on added importance next year as the U.S. and China are scheduled to begin their own round of Open Skies discussions.

“No one carrier can serve all customers, and no one carrier can serve all points on a map,” says Tilton, pointing to the regulatory constraints that prevent U.S. airlines from attracting foreign capital or investing in non-U.S. airlines—opportunities available to other industries such as pharmaceuticals, energy, telecommunications and the auto industry.

“United has always been a proponent of open markets, of taking the shackles off of industry,” he emphasizes. “Letting businesses compete on a global basis is important to us, and it is important to our customers.”

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MUSICAL CHAIRS // A quiet moment on a stretch of sand looking out to the Irish Sea

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GALLERY STO CK

wish you were here

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BLACKPOOL, ENGLAND // PHOTOGRAPH BY GEORGE SIMHONI

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dispatches

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NOTES FROM ALL OVER

Queens, New York

Fight at the Museum

ON A LATE SUMMER EVENING, the normally subdued scene

inside the Queens Museum is interrupted by a shout. “Out of our way,” cries a Roman legionnaire, sword raised, as she cuts the drink line. “We warriors need grog!” One of her brothers in arms shouts encouragement: “Use your shoulder pads!”

A radical artist stages a raucous battle It’s no ordinary night at the museum. The drink menu in a city park...with togas. offers spiked lemonade “free with toga,” and a croaking ILLUSTRATIONS BY GRAHAM ROUMIEU glam-metal band serenades the crowd. It’s all the work of artist-provocateur Duke Riley, a man whose most successful art exhibition to date landed him in jail. And at first, it seemed tonight’s happening, titled Those About to Die Salute You, would end the same way. His idea was to wage a mock naval battle between baguette-wielding representatives of New York City’s fine art institutions in a disused reflecting pool in Corona Park—and somehow he’d persuaded the venerable Queens Museum to go along with the scheme.

Riley was inspired by naumachia, brutal battles to the death that were staged by emperors in flooded arenas to entertain ancient Romans during times of hardship. To pull it off, he and several artist friends worked five months constructing watercraft from dried reeds and material recycled from a shuttered ice rink. Then he flooded the reflecting pool, which had been barren since the 1964 World’s Fair, and convinced art museum employees representing each of the five boroughs to man the battle stations.

Nobody knew what to expect, including Riley. “I was worried that because there was no actual bloodshed and the water was only a couple of feet deep, it would just be really boring,” he says later.

Fortunately, Riley underestimated the crowd and perhaps the pent-up desire among nerdy art types to let loose. Before the ships even sail, rowdy spectators wade into the pool, chucking microwaved tomatoes at each other to the strains of Black Sabbath. The Queens team sails a two-headed catamaran into the center of the pool, drawing a withering barrage from the masses.

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dispatches

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Chaos reigns for 40 minutes as ships sink and fake blood spatters everywhere. A model of the Queen Mary 2 is lit on fire, and low-flying bottle rockets are launched from her deck. At the conclusion, Riley grabs a microphone, declares the United States “the best country in the world,” and invites everyone back to the museum for a bacchanal.

At night’s end, two men stand at the perimeter of the wreck-strewn reflecting pool, peering into the darkness.

“Just fantastic,” one says in a strong British accent, his hands on his hips. “We’ll never see anything like it again.” —PETER KOCH Yucatán Peninsula, Mexico

THE DAILY PLANNER

In a remote white birch grove near Nohoch Mul, the tallest Mayan pyramid in Mexico, 19-year-old Rafael Noh Ehoc rests on the chipped orange frame of his pedicab. It’s a slow morning. A handful of panting, sweating tourists have trekked the mile and a half from the parking lot just outside the tiny

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Yucatán town of Coba to visit the 14-story pyramid—the only one left in Mexico that visitors can actually climb.

Noh Ehoc and a handful of other pedicabbies—all of Mayan descent—rest in the shade. Soon, the tourists will show up, scale the pyramids and want a ride back to the buses. Until then, Noh Ehoc and his compadres discuss the end of the world.

“I think we will see many hurricanes,” says Noh Ehoc.

“And tornadoes, too, many fires.” He pauses, lost in thought, and then lights up as though remembering the last digits of a phone number.

“And also epidemicos grandes.

Muy grandes.”

Noh Ehoc’s pessimism is not without cause. In 2012, the Mayan calendar, a.k.a. the Mesoamerican Long Count calendar, will come to an abrupt end, and a growing chorus of people around the world is convinced that when the calendar runs out, so does the world.

Fortunately, not all the Mayan pedicabbies agree.

“The prophecy is a cultural prediction,” says a wiseseeming older man named Juan. “The Egyptians had their predictions, the Huns had theirs. This is ours.”

“But then why does the calendar end?” asks 28-yearold Manuel Tcacaret, who is wearing a Chicago Bulls baseball cap. “It must stop for a reason.”

“It is true that we are of Mayan blood,” says Juan.

“But we’re not from the ancient culture. Manuel, you’re a futbol fan, for heaven’s sake.”

They all pause and

Albany, Ohio

“If they were there in the woods and the raccoons didn’t eat ’em, we got ’em,” says Barbara Fisher, a wry redhead sitting at a long table beneath a white tent, cutting up slippery chunks of pawpaw (also known as Ozark banana, prairie banana and poor man’s banana) for a panel of judges. A selfproclaimed culinary nerd, blogger and organizer of both a “best pawpaw” contest and a cook-off at this year’s Ohio Pawpaw Festival, Fisher grew up eating the large, pear-shaped fruits in West Virginia, often in her grandmother’s beloved “fried pies.”

North America’s largest native edible fruit, the green produce—which for now is found only in the wild—has a custardlike flesh and is often described as tropical, with flavor notes of melon, mango and coconut. It’s known throughout the southeastern U.S. and virtually nowhere else—hence the festival, celebrating its 11th anniversary, which will include a pawpaw art workshop and pawpaw juggling demonstration, in addition to pawpaw jams, baked goods, popsicles and beer.

On a Saturday morning, fans arrive from all over the country. They include students from nearby Ohio University, local families and avid hobbyists intent on discussing soil acidity and genetic hybrids.

And then there are the uninitiated, often quickly transformed into true believers. Adam Jacoby, a young grad student in biochemistry, sits on a hay bale in front of the bluegrass stage clutching his first pawpaw.

“I’m a convert,” he says, wiping a spot of juice from his chin. “They taste great. They’re also weird—creamy and weird.” He plans to plant two trees on his mother’s property near the festival grounds.

The pawpaw has come a long way from the woods of Appalachia. Fisher raves about the pawpaw crème brulée at an upscale restaurant in downtown Athens, Ohio, and there’s a rumor that a pawpaw research center at Kentucky State was recently contacted by none other than Wal-Mart. Can a new Ben & Jerry’s flavor be far behind? —KELLY KINGMAN

Come to Pawpaw

08/10/2009 13:44

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NOVEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

dispatches

22

consider this. Then Juan turns to a quiet man sitting on a rock.

“You went to university, Roberto. What do you think will happen?”

Roberto mops his brow and pauses, seemingly lost in thought. “Destruccion total del todo el universo,” he says, prompting nervous chuckles all around. —MIKE GUY Berlin

THE ICE MAN COMETH

In the center of Berlin’s most picturesque square, flanked on one side by a German cathedral and on the other by a French one, Brazilian artist Néle Azevedo arrives on the scene with a collection of freezers containing the bodies of 1,000 men. It’s noon, the temperature is a pleasant

73 degrees Fahrenheit, and Azevedo needs assistance arranging her figures, which are 20 centimeters tall and sculpted from ice. The men, cast in a seated position, need to be set up so their legs are dangling over the stairs of the neoclassical Konzerthaus, where they will patiently wait for the sun to do its work.

“World Wildlife Fund Germany contacted me because they saw a poetic link to global warming,” Azevedo explains. It seems the passersby in the Gendarmenmarkt see the link as well. One person stops by and quizzically regards the scene. Others join him. Soon, a collection of onlookers are getting in on the act, gingerly removing the men from their freezers

and arranging them on the steps, actively taking part in what Azevedo calls a “minimum movement intervention.”

“I’ve made this in a lot of places around the world, and when we are setting up the statues it’s always a very powerful moment, because I never know what will happen next and how people will take the statues and build the monument.”

The piece takes seven minutes to set up and 25 to melt. “People created a very uneven pattern on the stairs,” the artist notes afterward.

“Some put the statues down and sat by their side on the steps, waiting for them to melt. It was very emotional.”

Meanwhile, a more permanent statue, that of 18th-century poet Friedrich Schiller, looks on sternly.

—RACHEL B. DOYLE

Namibia

It’s a slow day at N/a’ankusê wildlife sanctuary in central Namibia, where cheetah researcher Florian Weise and a team of volunteers are struggling to photograph the paw prints of a female cheetah named Samira, part of a pioneering scheme to change the way conservationists monitor animals in the wild. “Once inside the cheetah’s enclosure, you’ve got to keep your wits about you,” whispers Keith Smith, a British tourist who has twice returned to N/a’ankusê as a short-term volunteer. “Cheetahs will hiss and spit and even swipe a claw if they don’t get what they want.”

Existing techniques to monitor endangered species can be invasive or unreliable: Radio collaring causes stress, and aerial surveys are notoriously fickle, particularly in forested terrain. If cheetahs could be identified individually from their tracks, researchers argue, they could monitor a free-roaming animal’s movements without needing to spot the critter itself. “San bushmen can consistently identify individual cheetahs from their footprints, and we hope computers can do the same,” says Weise, noting that Namibia is home to some 3,000 cheetahs, a quarter of the world population.

“We’re trying to distill ancient techniques and make them accessible to Western science,” says project developer Zoe Jewell, who has already “fingerprinted” the Bengal tiger and the British dormouse. “We’re almost there with the polar bear. We’re actually going to be working closely this year with some Inuit trackers to complete the algorithm.”

Yet the nuances of scientific discovery are lost on Samira. In order to get a sharper imprint of her left hind paw, Weise has soaked the earth around her food, and she’s not pleased. “Gathering prints is a fine art,” sighs volunteer Michelle Duma, as Samira refuses to take the bait, instead turning to lie immobile beneath the spreading boughs of an umbrella-thorn tree. “Cheetahs hate getting their feet wet.” —COLIN BARRACLOUGH

Stray Cat Strut

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2009

directions

25

WHERE TO STAY / WHAT TO SEE / WHEN TO GO

P H O T O G R A P H BY P I C T U R E GA R D E N/G E T T Y I M AG E S

news

Falls in Love Just a two-minute walk from the world-famous Iguaçu Falls, Brazil’s Hotel das Cataratas is in one of the best locations in the world. And now, thanks to renovations by luxury hotel operator Orient-Express, the rest of the colonialstyle lodging is just as spectacular. Still, the best part of staying at the Cataratas— the only hotel located inside of Iguaçu National Park—is waking up early and exploring the falls before the masses arrive. hoteldascataratas.com

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08/10/2009 13:26

CALENDAR NOVEMBER

26

FAIRFAX, VIRGINIA // Lee Ann Womack, Montgomery Gentry and Phil Vassar take the stage to support the troops at the American Freedom Festival. americanfreedomfoundation.org

LEADER OF THE PACHYDERM // No trip to India would be complete without a visit to the Taj Mahal or an elephant ride or a tiger safari or a sampling of the country’s exquisite cuisine. That’s why International Expeditions has combined all of those activities, and many more, into its Tiger Safari, an 18-day exploration of the subcontinent’s food, architecture, wildlife and culture. Those who book a spot on the tours departing Mumbai on December 18 will receive a discount of $1,100, leaving a large chunk of cash for extra naan. ietravel.com A SITE TO SEE // On November 14, the Denver Art Museum’s Frederic C. Hamilton wing, an angular titanium beast, will be taken over by “Embrace!,” an exhibition of 17 site-specific installations. Each work, from a fourstory canvas hanging in the atrium to the hyperrealistic painting that seems to peel back the building’s exterior, plays off the design of architect Daniel Libeskind, turning the museum itself into a piece of art. denverartmuseum.org

COLONIAL ROAST // Twohundred fifty years after serving as a gathering place for America’s founding fathers, Charlton’s Coffeehouse reopens this month as Colonial Williamsburg’s newest exhibition building.

Filled to the brim with period furniture and old-timey prints, the coffeehouse provides a rare glimpse at a Revolutionary-era hangout, and with 18th century–style coffees, teas and chocolates on the menu, an even rarer taste of George Washington’s favorite snacks. history.org

HEM_1109_TravelNews.indd 2

11–15 HOUSTON // The Cinema Arts Festival is the only film festival in the country to show films exclusively about art and artists. Art about artists? So meta. cinemartsociety.org

13–15 LOS ANGELES // Things can get pretty spicy at the Los Angeles International Tamale Festival. The tamaleeating contest is best left to the pros. eatlosangeles.net/ STREET WISE // Over the past decade, the quiet Dutch city of Utrecht has helped hundreds of homeless get off the streets. Now a local organization is providing them a chance to give back with “Utrecht Underground,” a program that has formerly homeless people leading tours through the tunnels and alleys where they once lived. At only five euros, it’s much less expensive than a double-decker bus and infinitely more educational.

tamalefestival

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RICHTERSWIL, SWITZERLAND // This Zürich suburb goes back to its roots with an annual turnip festival.

Ever seen a turnip lantern?

Gorgeous. räbechilbi.ch

C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P : P H O T O G R A P H S BY P H O T O S I N D I A / P H O T O L I B R A RY, C O U R T E SY O F A M E R I CA N F R E E D O M F E S T I VA L , C O U R T E SY C I N E M A A R T S F E S T I VA L H O U S T O N, C O U R T E SY O F R A P P E R SW I L Z Ü R I C H S E E T O U R I S M U S , BY J O C H E N TAC K / P H O T O L I B R A RY, C O U R T E SY O F K E V I N H E S T E R / DA M , C O U R T E SY O F C O L O N I A L W I L L I A M S B U R G

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CALENDAR NOVEMBER

28

21

TAMPA, FLORIDA // Sometimes, a cigar is just a cigar, but at the Cigar Heritage Festival, it might end up being the longest cigar in the world.

Known for his often strange but always compelling films, director Tim Burton invades the Museum of Modern Art for the next five months with an exhibit comprising more than 700 examples of his lesser-known work, including drawings, storyboards and other oddities from his personal collection. Highlights include Burton’s never-beforeseen student films and his earliest childhood sketches, which serve as a reminder that weird kids can become wildly successful adults. moma.org

cigarheritagefestival.com

THE ART SHOW BEFORE CHRISTMAS //

21 ROME // The oft-maligned squeezebox finally gets its due as accordionists from around the world gather for the International V-Accordion Festival. v-accordionfestival.com

DECEMBER 3-6 MIAMI // One of the top art

TEA TIME // High up in the hills of central Sri Lanka, hidden between the Earl Greys and English breakfasts that make up the area’s vast tea fields, sit four bungalows built for British tea magnates during the time of the Raj. Newly restored by the Dilmah Tea company, these bungalows, along with the hiking trails that connect them, make up the Ceylon Tea Trails. Visitors are encouraged to sleep in a new bungalow each night as they move among the trails, sampling the product fresh from the ground. Another selling point: Anyone who stays for three nights between now and June 2010 receives a fr free ree year’s supp ree supply off tea. tea teatrails.com teatrailss.com m

GUIDE LINE // For those too intimidated by guide books (see below) and unreliable online travel guides, TripBod pairs travelers with savvy locals who provide custom itineraries and, if you’re nice, company. tripbod.com

shows in the world, Art Basel Miami Beach is a great place to rub suntanned elbows with the glitterati. artbasel miamibeach.com

5 NEGRIL, JAMAICA // Twentysix point two miles feels like a total breeze with reggae music blasting as you run through town and along the beach. reggaemarathon.com

5 LONDON // As if it weren’t

PEDAL POWER // After watching its out-of-print cycling guides sell for north of $125 online, Lonely Planet has wisely brought back the pedal-friendly publications with new guides for Britain, Italy, France, Australia and New Zealand. Detailed maps, elevation charts and tips on bike-friendly hotels make the guides an essential addition to any two-wheeled traveler’s backpack. Just remember: Reading and riding don’t mix. lonelyplanet.com

HEM_1109_TravelNews.indd 3

odd enough that the English call dessert “pudding,” once a year, at The Great Christmas Pudding Race, they don costumes and race around with their puddings.

Hey, it’s for charity.... xmaspuddingrace.org.uk

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DIRECTIONS | NOVEMBER 2009

PH OTOGRA PH BY GIULI AN O BE KO R/C PI SYN DICATION

whereabouts

31

The Places I Go: Mary J. Blige “I GO ON VACATION TO RELAX. I don’t go to hang out or party. I love Cabo San Lucas because the weather is beautiful all the time.

Everything there is just gorgeous. And the ocean’s very loud, which is actually very soothing. We stayed at the Esperanza Cabo Resort. It was nice because they have private pools in the rooms, so there was plenty of privacy. Last time I was there, I’d just come off the Breakthrough tour, and I went with friends, just to relax with people I care about.

“I was in Portofino, Italy, in August. It’s probably one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen in my life. There was this beautiful mist everywhere. And I loved how the poor people mixed with the rich people—there was no separation. It’s not like anything I’ve seen. I was on a boat, and we were there for just three days, so I mostly just walked around to see the sites, and I relaxed. I’d love to go back to both places, but I’m not going on vacation anytime soon—too much work to do.”

HEM_1109_whereabout.indd 1

Mary J. Blige’s album Stronger is in stores November 24.

12/10/2009 16:45

32

Get your bearings among the craft purveyors, indigenous dancers and gawking tourists in the sprawling Zócalo. Step out of the madness and into the Palacio Nacional (El Zócalo, Centro) for a free look at Diego Rivera’s richly detailed mural masterpiece, Epic of the Mexican People in Their Struggle for Freedom and Independence. ( 0:35 ) Sample cantina culture at La Mascota (Calle Mesones 20, Centro), where small plates of homecooked staples such as carnitas (braised pork) and meatballs in chili sauce come free with drinks. Pick a tequila from the dozens of choices and have just one—you’ve got a long way to go. ( 1:20 ) Stroll down the shaded pathways of the Alameda Central, the city’s poplar-lined downtown park, on your way to the Latin American Tower (Eje Central Lázaro Cárdenas 2, Centro; ociopuro.org/torre).

Climb to the 44th-floor terrace and soak up a panoramic view of the sprawling megalopolis. And you thought L.A. was big. ( 1:50 ) Flag a taxi, and hold tight for a wild ride to Mercado San Juan (Calle Ayuntamiento, Centro). Once there, buy a steaming cup of atole champurrado (hot chocolate and masa) to slurp as you browse the stalls of this huge market for art, textiles, aromatic herbs, chilis and edible grasshoppers. ( 2:50 ) Walk a couple of blocks and step into the ring at El Cuadrilátero (Calle Luis Moya 73, Centro), a sandwich shop opened by pro wrestler Super Astro. If you can powerslam the massive 2.5-pound Torta Gladiator in 15 minutes, it’s yours for free. ( 3:20 ) BOARDING PASS

Now sprint, if your stomach will allow it, through the Museo de Arte Popular (Calle Revillagigedo 11, Centro; map.df.gob.mx), a folk art museum with a massive collection gathered from Mexico’s 31 states.

The giant papier-mâché sculptures are stunning. But they’re not piñatas—don’t rip them open. ( 3:55 ) Gulp down a postmuseum pick-me-up at Café La Habana (Calle Morelos 62, Zona Rosa), the joint where Che Guevara and Fidel Castro allegedly met to plot the Cuban Revolution. On your way out, snag a few crunchy churros, proof that fried dough is best in stick form. ( 4:25 ) Finally, take a cab to Arena Mexico (Calle Doctor Lavista 189, los Doctores; arenamexico.com.mx), where high-flying masked wrestlers pummel each other with the most over-the-top choreography this side of the Palace of Fine Arts. Cheer on the técnico (good guy) as he pins the rudo (bad guy), and see why Mexican wrestling is so much better than its American counterpart. (It’s the masks.) ( 5:00 )

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2009

culture

style

35

ART & COMMERCE

SHORT AND SWEET Proenza Schouler showed colorful cocktail numbers for Spring 2010.

AS THE LIGHTS DIMMED before the Michael Kors Spring 2010 show in Manhattan this fall, tastemakers, trendcasters and the behind-the-scenes folks whose livelihoods depend on the rest of us shopping were all perched anxiously on petite chairs. Then there was Vogue editor Anna Wintour, impervious behind her bug-eyed glasses. Across the aisle, In tough times, high fashion wearing a sharp suit, sat silver-haired Michael Douglas, in fights back with frippery. town for the filming of Wall Street 2: Money Never Sleeps.

This September, more than ever before, fashion industry // BY SARAH HORNE observers drew in their breath, wondering precisely what alchemy of cut and color might just inspire Americans to reach into their wallets. Design duo Proenza Schouler wagered on cheeky electric-green cocktail frocks, while the venerated Oscar de la Renta proffered major gowns in orange and magenta with just a hint of flamenco flair. What they weren’t doing was anything demure or muted. Together, the top American designers seemed to be embracing insouciance, banking on escapism. Silver paillette disco dress, anyone?

Back at the Kors show, the lights came up, blindingly bright, and the models in minxy minidresses (black with see-through plastic cutouts) stalked toward the photographers to the strains of Lady Gaga’s “The Fame.” For a moment, the room felt like it was moving to the lyrics: “All we care about is runway models, Cadillacs and liquor bottles... We got a taste for champagne and endless fortune.”

In the front row, Wintour cracked a faint smile. Gordon Gekko threw her a wink. Fashion was back.

P H O T O G R A P H BY S E T H W E N I G /A P

Haute Topic

SARAH HORNE thinks that everyone should own exactly one piece of disco ball–inspired clothing.

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05/10/2009 16:12

CULTURE | NOVEMBER 2009

hero

37

Live and Learn Photographer Bill Smith and his wife, Lauren, a fashion designer, started A New Day Cambodia to help a handful of children out of poverty. My, how it’s grown.

BY LAYLA SCHLACK

// PHOTOGRAPH BY DAVID BOWMAN

• BILL AND LAUREN SMITH MISSION • To pull kids out of Cambodia’s garbage dumps and put them in school. Bill, the official photographer for the Chicago NAME

Bulls, Bears and Blackhawks, started making annual visits to Southeast Asia to pursue his first love, travel photography. In 2002, a driver took him and Lauren to a garbage dump teeming with children who scavenged to make a living. “It was what hell would be like,” Lauren says. The couple decided to sponsor 10-year-old Srey Na, her friend Srey Nak and her sister, Srey Salim, with English lessons, as a first step to finding careers and building better lives. Friends back in Chicago took up the cause. “It was only five- or six-hundred dollars a year. Soon friends would say ‘Next time you’re there, find a kid for us to support,’” Bill says. His friend, Bulls ticket manager Joe O’Neil, held a fundraiser, and Chicago Tribune writer K.C. Johnson wrote a story that ran on Christmas Eve, 2006. Donations started pouring in, and A New Day Cambodia eventually had enough money to open shelters for the kids in Phnom Penh in 2007 and 2008. They’ve also started sending older children to vocational training centers. MOTIVATION • “Even before Bill and I were married,” Lauren recalls, “he always said, ‘I just want to help one person. I want to change one person’s life.’” IN THEIR OFF TIME? The Smiths can be found rooting for Chicago sports teams. “I wasn’t a big sports fan before I married Bill,” Lauren admits, “but it’s really a lot of fun. I especially like going to Bulls games.”

For more information, go to anewdaycambodia.org

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08/10/2009 12:31

Bridging the Persian Gulf Iranian composer Hafez Nazeri has spent the past decade shaking up traditional Persian music. This month, he brings his signature style to New York. // BY JENNY ELISCU HAFEZ NAZERI takes the idea of cultural

fusion very seriously. The 30-year-old Iranian composer—who brings his modern version of Persian classical song to Carnegie Hall on November 14, becoming the first Iranian musician ever to headline a show there—has spent

ALSO THIS MONTH What else to listen to on the go in November

HEM_1109_Sound.indd 1

Norah Jones THE FALL

The past work of this silky-voiced Brooklynite surprised us with its elegance. But this album is a much riskier effort, the pretty jazzpop spiked with spooky textures and clever turns of phrase.

the past decade persuading audiences around the world to explore one another’s traditions. “To Western ears, our music is the sound of this unknown country, which has seven thousand years of history,” Nazeri says over tea at a Midtown Manhattan bakery. “I want

Yonder Mountain String Band THE SHOW

Part Grateful Dead, part Del McCoury Band, this Colorado quartet’s new effort is a fiddlerific collection of footstomping bluegrass anthems and lonesome blue-sky harmonizing.

Q-Tip KAMAAL THE ABSTRACT

A fusion of jazz and rap that never quite finds its groove, this record—by the former Tribe Called Quest frontman—is nonetheless full of brilliant moments, like the piano vamps and rhymes on “Even if It Is So.”

to be the new face of the country, to show people that through music we are all becoming one.”

Growing up in Tehran as the son of celebrated vocalist Shahram Nazeri— “the Pavorotti of Iran”—Hafez began performing with his father when he was only three. By 10, he’d already invented a new way of playing the daf, an ancient tambourine-like percussion instrument.

In Nazeri’s household, musical rules were meant to be broken: During the early ’70s, his father was the first Persian singer to interpret the ancient verses of Sufi poet Mawlana Jalal-alDin Rumi. “Because of the vocabulary Rumi used, his verses didn’t match with Persian classical music,” Hafez explains. “But my father wanted to have his own signatures, and this was what he taught me. He never let me become an imitator.”

A decade ago, after Nazeri, then 20, wowed his countrymen with his Rumi Ensemble—which toured the country and attracted a record-breaking 140,000 concertgoers in Tehran— Nazeri moved to New York to attend the Mannes College of Music, where he began studying Western classical music.

“In Iran, everyone thought of me as just the son of this famous singer,” he says.

“When I came here, I thought, ‘Nobody knows me anymore. I can do whatever I want,’ and I knew I had the potential to create more excitement here.”

Nazeri began his Rumi Symphony Project in 2007 “to create a universal music using Rumi as a symbol of peace.” Eight hundred years after the renowned mystic died, Nazeri notes, he has become the best-selling poet in America. “Rumi’s poems are part of our background in Iran, but they don’t belong to anybody,” says Nazeri. “The whole message is to first just close your eyes to the outside and go find that diamond inside you. If you find it, let it shine, because the more it shines, the more you can do important things for your life and others.”

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vision

Arrested Developments WHEN A FAMILY FILM IS GOOD, it’s very, very good. When it’s bad, it’s Tom and Jerry: The Movie. For years, these pictures have mostly been the province of workaday directors—plodding types who know how to amuse a kindergartner, if not his parents. But a new generation of filmmakers—never-grow-up Gen-Xers, mostly—are embracing the G-rated genre.

In the wake of Where the Wild Things Are,

by Spike Jonze (Being John Malkovich), our nation’s youth will be lining up— Hollywood hopes—for Fantastic Mr. Fox

by Wes Anderson, the dandyish director behind The Royal Tenenbaums.

Such pairings may seem chancy, but there’s some recent precedent: Indiefilm renegade Robert Rodriguez (Sin City) managed to create his own familyfriendly franchise, the Spy Kids trilogy, outside of the Hollywood system. And Tim Burton, who’s carried his penchant for dark whimsy from the gothic corridors of Edward Scissorhands into such family-friendly territory as Charlie and the Chocolate Factory, is prepping Alice in Wonderland for a March release.

Jonze has said that in recreating the antic nightmares of a moody child, he wanted to “capture the feeling of what

ALSO THIS MONTH

By the People

Throw Down Your Heart

Back in the spring of 2006, two filmmakers began following a dynamic first-term senator from Illinois named Barack Obama. The result is a compelling and frank behind-the-scenes look at the making of the 44th president.

On HBO November 3

This uplifting documentary follows banjo virtuoso Bela Fleck as he traces the African roots of his instrument (so often associated with Appalachian front porches) and joins local musicians for epic jam sessions.

On DVD November 3

What else to watch on the go in November

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Gone with the Wind: Ultimate Collector’s Edition

On its 70th anniversary, Gone with the Wind gets the box-set treatment with this five-disc collection comprising newsreels, documentaries, biographies and the film itself. Frankly, my dear, you must buy it.

On DVD November 17

it is to be nine,” but the approach has generated some controversy. “Making a movie from the point of view of a child is not the same as making a childfriendly movie,” Variety reporter Anne Thompson notes pointedly.

Fantastic Mr. Fox may be just as risky in choosing to jettison digital animation for an old-time stop-motion process. Still, given Anderson’s penchant for stories about self-obsessed control freaks (we’re looking at you, Steve Zissou), Roald Dahl’s suavely domineering furry beast seems tailormade for the director’s sensibilities.

Meanwhile, similar projects are in the pipeline: David Fincher (Fight Club) is at work on a big-screen version of the comic book The Goon. And Guillermo del Toro (Pan’s Labyrinth) is set to direct an animated remake of Dahl’s The Witches, scripted by Alfonso Cuarón, who himself went from a sexy indie breakthrough (Y Tu Mamá También) to Harry Potter–ville.

If Fox is a hit, look for auteur kiddie flicks to become a bona fide trend.

Who’s up for Quentin Tarantino’s Harriet the Spy? Film critic GENE SEYMOUR thought Nicolas Roeg’s 1990 adaptation of The Witches was just fine, thank you.

P H O T O G R A P H S C O U R T E SY O F F OX S E A R C H L I G H T P I C T U R E S ( T O P ) , S C O U T T U FA N K J I A N/ H B O ( BY T H E P E O P L E )

Indie auteurs are lining up to direct kiddie movies.

Is Mr. Fox guarding the henhouse? // BY GENE SEYMOUR

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Austen’s Powers Nearly two centuries after her death, Jane Austen remains a literary sensation.

Zombies, anyone? BY GILLIAN FASSEL // ILLUSTRATION BY THOMAS ALLEN NOT LONG AGO, I was purchasing the

latest newfangled gloss on Pride and Prejudice at a Borders in San Antonio.

“Ever read the original?” wondered the twentysomething salesdude. “Uh, yes…”

I stammered, though I refrained from mentioning how many times (I’ve lost count) or the circumstances of my first reading it (12 years old, up all night).

“Hard to imagine Austen without the zombies,” he laughed. Yikes.

“Austen still inspires people to become fanatical readers,” Harold Bloom writes in his foreword to A Truth Universally Acknowledged, a new collection of essays celebrating the novelist whose six biting romances launched a thousand pastiches and parodies—not to mention items such as Mr. Darcy tea towels and Sense and Sensibility sachets. And then there are the endless “sequels” and “interpretations,” including last month’s Lady Vernon and Her Daughter, which is billed as “A Novel of Jane Austen’s Lady Susan,” though the author has two cowriters. Meanwhile, a new play, Jane Austen's Guide to Pornography, is earning raves in London. (She didn’t write that one, either.)

Indeed, this is looking to be Jane’s most fecund year since 1995, when Colin Firth’s mutton-chopped Darcy

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emerged dripping from a Pemberley pond, unleashing a series of fresh spins on Austen’s oeuvre (e.g., Clueless, Bridget Jones’s Diary). This year has also seen a flurry of macabre mash-ups, spawned by the success of Pride and Prejudice and Zombies—with nearly a million copies in print—and its follow-up, Sense and Sensibility and Sea Monsters. Several paranormally inclined novels are slated for 2010, and Elton John’s Rocket Pictures is producing Pride and Predator.

Of course, parody is one thing; desecration is quite another, notes

ALSO THIS MONTH

Swans and Pistols

What else to read on the go in November

Léon Bing has been a fashion model, a mob associate and an intrepid journalist (she wrote an acclaimed exposé of the Bloods and Crips street gangs), all of which adds up to an amazing life. Her memoir is a knockout.

Austenprose blogger Laurel Ann Nattress. “We’ve evolved from laughing with Austen to laughing at her just to make money.” So WWJD? “Jane would laugh, she would cry and then want her share of the pecuniary emolument.”

Perhaps so. And with any luck, this new crop of Austen takeoffs will inspire us—including, I hope, my Borders clerk—to reread (or just read) Austen’s actual work, gimmick-free.

GILLIAN FASSEL recently purchased a “Jane Austen Is My Homegirl” hoodie.

Cowboys Full: The Story of Poker

James McManus, whose best-selling Positively Fifth Street chronicled his performance in the World Series of Poker, offers up a colorful history of the game—and comes up aces.

You Better Not Cry

Fans of the mega-selling memoir Running with Scissors know Augusten Burroughs is hardly the most reverent author.

They also know he’s very, very funny. Here, he turns his cutting wit to the holidays with predictably iconoclastic results.

08/10/2009 13:03

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06/10/2009 09:20

CULTURE | NOVEMBER 2009

wheels

45

CAR SHARP The 2010 R8 has a hot new

V-10 engine, but the same angry look.

Warped Drive

PHOTO GRAP H COU RTE SY O F AUDI

Tested on a winding racetrack, the extravagantly sexy new V-10 Audi R8 is one sweet ride. // BY MIKE GUY POKER PLAYERS SAY that if you look around the table two hands in and can’t spot the sucker, then the sucker is you.

It’s a sun-zapped afternoon at Infineon Raceway, a twisty track in the dry straw-and-grapevine covered hills of Sonoma, California. Infineon is 2.52 miles long, with 12 turns, a steep hill, a blind corner. A racing instructor there tells me it’s a very fast track, and a “technical” one. The braking, the shifting, the throttle and the steering have to be executed perfectly. I’m surrounded by other amateur drivers taking part in the Audi Sportscar Experience, most of whom have their own fire suits and helmets bearing stickers advertising their favorite motor

HEM_1109_Auto.indd 1

oil. I’m wearing a Hanes T-shirt. It never occurs to me that I’m the sucker.

In an episode of serendipity too complicated to describe, I first drove an earlier version of the Audi R8—the 2009 model, with its sublime 4.2-liter V-8 engine—on a narrow country lane in the hills of Sardinia. It sounds idyllic, and it was, but truthfully I was afraid to unleash the full force of that beautiful little machine. My overly rational mind kept imagining that at any moment a flock of sheep could bolt through a hedge. I played it safe.

This time, I’m on a closed track, where the only thing to fear, I guess, is driving this $146,000 supercar into a wall. Which is more difficult than you

might think. Though the new R8 shares a dangerously powerful 5.2-liter V-10 engine with the Lamborghini Gallardo, it also shares its perfectly balanced chassis and steering system, and a suspension that utilizes something called “magnetorheological dampers,” which I assume contribute to my staying on the road during the more “technical” turns.

I successfully circle the track many times in this outrageously impractical vehicle, hitting 150 mph and pulling multiple G’s. I even pass a driver in a fire suit who’s run off the road and is waiting for a tow truck. Sucker.

Executive editor MIKE GUY uses 10W-30 Lucas motor oil as both a hair gel and cologne.

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06/10/2009 09:26

CULTURE | NOVEMBER 2009

industry

47

Handy Work Online handcrafts network Etsy is more successful than its founders ever dreamed. But with armies of knitters, crocheters and beaders—not to mention buyers—flocking to the site, it faces a new challenge: maintaining its homey appeal. BY LAYLA SCHLACK // ILLUSTRATION BY LIZZIE FINN THE INAUGURAL MONDAY Craft Night in

Etsy’s new office has a summer camp feel: Women (and one man, the very enthusiastic Benjamin) pick up cookies to snack on, recipe cards, markers and decorative floral paper. This week’s project is to share recipes and package them into gift-worthy collections.

It’s full of incongruities, this scene— rustic wood tables under industrial fluorescent lights, young, mohawked women with lip piercings sharing chai tea recipes with matrons in silk scarves.

Those kinds of contradictions are what

HEM_1109_Industry.indd 1

define Etsy, the preeminent online marketplace for handmade goods. It’s the quilting bee gone digital, as well as the top place online to purchase a hand-knit jester toy for a new arrival or a necklace with a clay zombie head for, well, whomever. On the site, darkly humorous prints are as easy to come by as felted tea cozies.

With tonight’s event, Etsy is attempting to reconcile perhaps its most thorny contradiction: How does a website with a quarter of a million sellers hawking more than four million

items maintain its cuddly ambience?

“We have a deeply ingrained set of values, and we’re working hard to make sure those values aren’t lost,” says Matt Stinchcomb, Etsy’s VP of community.

Etsy was founded in 2005 by a 25-year-old painter/carpenter/ photographer named Rob Kalin. His goal was to make a space where he and his creatively inclined friends could sell their wares, free from the commercial goods on eBay and the taint of Craigslist trolls. “We were just in the right place at the right time,” says Stinchcomb, who

08/10/2009 12:36

NOVEMBER | UNITED.COM

industry

48

helped with some initial coding and word-of-mouth marketing, and within a year of Etsy’s launch, left his full-time job as vocalist and guitarist for a rock band, the French Kicks, to become the site’s marketing director. “The fact that Rob hired me to do marketing should tell you something about how we got started,” he says with a laugh.

Kalin used duct tape on the floor of

“We’re all stuck behind computers,” Stinchcomb says. “The tactile factor is really important.”

Then, of course, there’s the matter of price. “People are seeing real value in buying handmade items directly from independent sellers,” says Minor. For instance, Kristy Reichert makes wooden bookmarks out of leftovers from her husband’s cabinetry business, stamps

“It went from a wonderful little niche for handmade lovers to an enormous marketplace so big that it’s almost overwhelming.” his Brooklyn, New York, apartment to map out how the site would look.

Within three months, Etsy was up and running. “We never thought it would get so big,” Stinchcomb says. “We never had a business plan or a business model. We never had projected growth.”

No one would have believed them anyway, given the site’s extraordinary success, which has only been enhanced by the economic downturn. “As the recession set in, Etsy grew,” says Elissa Minor Rust, of Etsy Stalker, an independent website devoted to combing Etsy’s offerings. “It went from a wonderful little niche for handmade lovers to an enormous marketplace so big that it’s almost overwhelming.”

In recent years, the site seems to have benefited from a few key factors, not least among them, the growing digital-age yearning for simple tangible experiences. People are looking for comfort in things they can do and touch.

SEW BIG As Etsy grows, some crafters are departing for smaller competitors.

HEM_1109_Industry.indd 2

them with letters or designs, and sells them for $7. Her business partner Kristen Couse makes table linens by printing on vintage fabrics; a set of her “Tina the Llama” napkins costs $20.

Finally, of course, there’s the incredible influx of sellers—many of whom are former office workers who’ve been downsized and are finding in Etsy a way to start new careers. Etsy makes it easy. Instead of opening a brickand-mortar store or hunting for retail partners, Etsy sellers design their own websites free, paying a 20-cent-per-item listing fee. The company also takes 3.5 percent of each sale, and sells prime showcase spots for $7 to $15. “It was the easiest and best way for me to start my business,” Couse says. “It allowed me to set up shop for free, without having to put together my own web store, and it came with a built-in audience.”

For many participants, the site comes with built-in friendships as well. “It’s a

ARTFIRE

WINKELF

DA WANDA

ArtFire lets sellers participate in site development and has a marketplace for buyers looking for custom work.

Started by an Etsian, this site allows some nonhandmade items to be sold and also provides a bartering feature.

Etsy’s biggest competitor, this German company’s ratings system allows buyers to “heart” items they like.

great way to meet people,” says Couse.

Minor agrees. “The community that has grown out of Etsy is amazing,” she says. “Etsians are a very dedicated group of people—dedicated to their art and dedicated to supporting one another. Every day in the forums, you’ll see sellers giving pointers to each other about how to take better photographs or market their products.”

Says Stinchcomb, “I think the community is really what differentiates us from other sites.”

Still, as the site has grown, that familial atmosphere has become tougher to maintain, which is why the company has begun working to foster the communal vibe. In addition to the forums, Etsy has introduced “teams”— virtual kaffeeklatsches, organized by location or type of craft—whose members give each other advice and sometimes attend craft fairs together.

That is how Reichert and Couse met, as members of the New New Team. And of course there are events like the weekly craft night in Brooklyn (more are planned for other locales).

There have been growing pains. Some buyers have reported frustration at not getting their orders on time, and a small number of sellers have complained about a lack of support from the Etsy team. “We had a lot of technical problems that had to do with the sheer volume,” Stinchcomb concedes. “We never thought it would get so big!” More tech support has been brought on, and Stinchcomb has started a community council to give members a voice.

As for the future, Stinchcomb thinks there might be some room to expand into other areas. “We’re only touching the surface of what handmade art is,” he says. “High-end art, furniture, clothing, music, film—those are all handmade. It depends on who’s making it and how. To me, computer code is handmade.”

Maybe so. But what would Grandma say?

Hemispheres associate editor LAYLA SCHLACK has to finish the sweater she’s knitting before she even looks at Etsy.

08/10/2009 12:36

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13/10/2009 11:27

CULTURE | NOVEMBER 2009

sports

51

Beautiful Losers When a lovably inept NCAA football team upends its own tortured history and actually starts winning games, remembering the bad old days feels pretty darn good.

BY JASON GAY // ILLUSTRATION BY PAUL BLOW BIG-TIME COLLEGE football makes me feel conflicted. Not that I don’t love the sport, which is a thousand times more crazy and passionate than the NFL, what with the face-painted freshmen, the chest-painted sophomores and the butt-painted sixth-year seniors. But it’s just become so intense. You’ve got ESPN offering round-the-clock coverage, coaches earning millions of dollars, spurious (and perhaps not-so-spurious) allegations of players cashing in, and college towns demanding scalps if a team dares to lose two games, heaven forbid three.

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But what really jars me is my own college football team: the University of Wisconsin Badgers. We’re good now.

Not crush-you-like-a-walnut, Tiger Woods good, but not bad at all. The Badgers were 12-1 a few years ago, and they finished No. 5 in the USA Today coaches poll. They go to a bowl pretty much every season, including the last five. They’ve become a reliable power in the Big Ten Conference and have managed to do it without scandal, which is something to be proud of, especially these days.

Call me a killjoy, but I’m not on the

shiny new Badgers bandwagon. I don’t recognize that team. When I went to Wisconsin a couple of—cough—decades ago, the football team won nine games… in four years. They went 1-10, 2-9, 1-10, and in my final year, they stumbled onto a bona fide winning streak, going 5-6. It was the diametric opposite of the program that the Badgers have become.

We couldn’t pass or run. We couldn’t defend. We didn’t schedule cupcake opponents in the early season to puff up our schedule. We were the cupcake opponent—and nearly every Saturday, we got smooshed.

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NOVEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

sports

But here’s the thing: It was a blast. My friends and I didn’t mind at all that the Badgers were Big Ten doormats, that our games were over before they started, that the only bowls we’d ever see were in the restrooms. Outside of the poor guys who actually played on the team, no one at our school took football too seriously.

It was part of our identity: It was cool not to care. Those colleges where they lived and died with the scoreboard every Saturday, camped outside at night to get tickets, rioted over the slightest referee injustices? They were nuts.

It wasn’t like we didn’t go to games.

The Badgers may not have sold out Wisconsin’s Camp Randall Stadium, but it didn’t look like a Kansas City Royals day game, either. Not that we were always there to see the team. Wisconsin has a tradition called “the Fifth Quarter,” in which the school’s tremendous marching band takes the field after the game for a raucous, tuba-swinging concert. The Fifth Quarter has its origins in another Badgers fallow period, the

A loss didn’t cast a pall over campus on Saturday night, and our cheerleaders didn’t sob at the end of games—they made evening plans. late ’70s. The idea was that if the team couldn’t pack the stadium, the band would help draw people in. “It was all about the Fifth Quarter,” my old college friend Dicky remembers.

There was something truly lovable about this, in a Bill Murray–Meatballs sort of way—not caring about the score, cheering for the band as much as for the team. The stakes were low. A loss didn’t send our student body into a deep funk and cast a pall over campus on Saturday night—we’d forget defeats by the time we hit the parking lot. Our cheerleaders didn’t sob at the end of games—they made evening plans. We didn’t mind that the Badgers were terrible. In fact, we maybe loved them more.

“The biggest part of the fun was how bad they actually were,” Dicky recalls.

“Anyone can say their team lost to

MAJOR CRUSHES Three of the gnarliest routs in the history of professional sports 1940

FOOTBALL // In the championship game, the Chicago Bears mauled the Washington Redskins 73-0.

1998

HOCKEY // In the Asia-Oceania International Junior Hockey Championships, South Korea iced Thailand, 92-0.

2007

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BASEBALL // Texas Rangers blasted the

Baltimore Orioles, 30-3.

Michigan by two touchdowns. But how many fans can say they showed up at the end of the first half and saw the team down forty-two to nothing? That takes some work.”

(For a moment, I thought Dicky might be embellishing or a little foggy from all the Old Style we used to drink, but then I looked it up—the Badgers lost to Michigan, 62-14. That wasn’t even the most brutal whipping we saw, however: The next year, they lost to Miami, 51-3.

According to legend, on the first play, a Miami defender hurled a Badger to the turf and said, “Welcome to the jungle, baby. You’re going to die.”)

Now, I’m not naïve. I know most people think it’s fun to support a great college football team. I know the sport is a big revenue earner, and the millions raked in by a bowl contender can transform a university. I know that sometimes the schools even spend that revenue on books and academics, as opposed to fancy new locker rooms and practice facilities.

I also appreciate the sense of pride that a high-quality football program gives its alumni, how it raises a university’s national stature and feeds endowments. As much as we’d love to titillate the fat cats with the strength of a philosophy department, nothing gets the alumni atwitter like a top-10 team.

But when I watch my team now, with its frenzied fans hooked on the action, I can’t relate. Everyone dresses in Badger red—I don’t believe I ever thought about what I wore to a game—and screams from kickoff to the final whistle.

They’ve added luxury boxes and a statue of Barry Alvarez, the coach who transformed the team from pit stop to powerhouse. In case you’re wondering, Barry’s still alive.

But the worst part is “Jump Around.”

This started not long after I graduated, apparently. During every home game, just before the fourth quarter begins, the PA system plays House of Pain’s

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“Jump Around” really loud, and all of the students pogo in their seats like a giant kettle of popcorn. Cute, quirky display of school spirit, right? Except “Jump Around” is nothing less than the worst hip-hop song in the history of mankind.

We’ve become like every other football-loony university, living and dying with every play, jabbering about bowl berths and conference championships and whether or not we crack the top 20. Wisconsin now prides itself on having the craziest football fans ever. Of course, nearly every school thinks it has the craziest football fans ever. That’s what college is for—thinking you’re the center of the universe.

Make no mistake, I’m a proud alum.

Wisconsin’s a phenomenal university, with fabulous departments and teachers and one of the most beautiful campuses in America. I still have the friends I made there, two decades later.

But college sports have become less about college these days and more like an industry, beholden to success and money and television ratings. Lovable losers aren’t so lovable anymore.

I still root for the Badgers, even though they mostly win and House of Pain overshadows the Fifth Quarter.

However, I wouldn’t mind if they started losing again. Say, by 50 points. Maybe then, I could get a ticket.

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Contributing writer JASON GAY was disinvited from his Wisconsin touch football team for not being good enough.

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09/10/2009 12:14

Why log in when you can go out?

It’s Just Lunch Dating Specialist Amy Brinkman asks “Why waste time with online profiles and the bar scene when you could be on a date right now?”

There are no online profiles for the world to see, N How has dating changed over the years? From my and it’s up to the clients if they want to share more perspective, technology has changed everything. details during their date and exchange cards in When we started It’s Just Lunch eighteen years ago, order to meet again. As part of our policy, we don’t singles simply introduced themselves and began give out our clients’ last names or phone numbers. talking – done. Now, couples chat, email, instant message, tweet, text and even video chat. People N What kind of people would I meet through relate through their computers and mobile phones.

It’s Just Lunch? It’s Just Lunch clients are a This makes it easier than ever to stay in touch with diverse group representing many different someone you already know – but nearly impossible professions, career stages and educational to meet someone you don’t. Now the methods that backgrounds. Some have just moved to a new people used to rely on for romantic introductions are city and want to fast-forward to meeting gone, and people usually find themselves with just one like-minded people. We commonly network in their city: the “When you are ready see singles spending most of their office. That’s not always ideal time with people from work, but and busy singles don’t have the to start dating, they realize the pitfalls of dating time or desire to cruise the bars you want to start coworkers. They come to us to or scan online profiles. This is expand their social circle outside exactly where It’s Just Lunch immediately.” of work. Our clients do have one comes in. We introduce our Amy Brinkman, thing in common, though: they’re clients to real people – not DATING SPECIALIST ready to meet someone new. online profiles or phone numbers. We provide that missing network, and we N Any advice for the first-date conversation? do it in a way that fits into everyone’s hectic schedule.

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We believe that nothing replaces the human touch, of jealousy, awkwardness, or insecurity in seconds. If it comes up, give a brief and we don’t believe in “computer matches.” It answer and change the subject. Avoid doesn’t matter if you both like to jog, both like Chinese food, and both would like something long topics such as politics and religion term – you can like all the same things and still not until you’ve gotten to know each other better. Make a conscious effort to like each other. That’s why we use our intuition to create the match. First, we interview each client like ask or answer questions from your you would get to know a new friend, learning about most positive perspective. Studies show people find you more interesting their personalities, their likes and dislikes, and when you ask questions about them. their relationship goals. Then, we call to arrange If you don’t know what to ask, just their first date. We contact both clients, get their pause a moment to think . . . silence schedules, find a convenient time and place for can be sexy and mysterious. them to meet, and even make them a reservation.

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05/10/2009 16:33

CULTURE | NOVEMBER 2009

food&drink

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A Moveable Feast Chef Jim Denevan’s Outstanding in the Field offers alfresco dining down on the farm. BY GILLIAN TELLING // PHOTOGRAPHS BY ANDREA WYNER “WHO ORDERED THE WEATHER?” someone says to no one in particular, as clusters of strangers mill about in a disorderly line waiting to get a cucumber, mint and gin cocktail provided by a local distiller called Death’s Door Spirits. Everyone murmurs in agreement: The weather is amazing—sunny, clear, breezy.

The roving outdoor dining outfit Outstanding in the Field has, on this early August afternoon, alighted on the property of West Star Farms, seven miles outside of Madison, Wisconsin. From our perch near the makeshift hilltop bar, everyone watches as a table for 140 is set up in a field below, a bright white tablecloth snaking in between deep green rows of lettuce, scarlet carrots and corn. As gourmet meals go, this tips the scales of casual and pleasant.

“Everyone who brought a plate, please leave them over here!” calls out Katy Oursler, the special events director for the company. As an OITF novice, I didn’t come equipped. I ask the woman in line in front of me if it’s okay. “Oh, sure,” she says. “It just makes for a prettier table if everyone brings a different plate.” (Plus, you bring it home with you when dinner is over, saving the organizers from having to rent flatware or haul it around in the old bus with which they tour the nation. Smart.)

FIELD OF GREENS The dinner at Wisconsin’s West Star Farms

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Piles of baguette rounds, sour cherries and three different types of goat cheese have been set out. I fill up a napkin and dig into some of the best chèvre I’ve ever eaten, insisting the women ahead of me try some. But they already know; they made it just three days earlier. Anne Topham and Judy Borree from Fantôme Farm, just down the road, have been producing small batches of the stuff since 1984. With just 14 goats, they sell only locally. “We don’t want to get bigger,” Topham says. “We like staying small. We’re like the opposite of the American dream.” They’re here because tonight’s guest chef, Tory Miller from L’Etoile restaurant in Madison, has been religiously serving their cheese from the first time he tried it, and it plays a part in tonight’s menu. “I love it,” he says, stopping by and saying hello to Topham, who is nicknamed the Godmother of Goat Cheese. “I haven’t found anything I didn’t like it on.” At this point, Oursler and OITF founder Jim Denevan gather everyone around a barn silo to meet our host farmer for the evening and learn about this event, which costs $180 per person.

Ten years ago, as the executive chef at Gabriella Café in Santa Cruz, Denevan was using only locally harvested organic produce long before it became de rigueur. He’d regularly shop for the day’s ingredients at the farmers market, where he chatted up the farmers about their jobs and how they cultivated their crops. Denevan was familiar with farm life; his brother, a hippie 15 years his senior, owns an organic apple

AGRICULTURE VULTURES Clockwise from top left, the entrance to West Star Farms in Wisconsin; cook Ed Lee; picking a sweet pepper; and OITF founder Jim Denevan

or raised by hardworking farmers who love and cherish their products. And so he began regular farm nights in 1997, inviting the suppliers of his ingredients to come in and talk about how their harvested bounty landed on the customers’ plates. These farm dinners were such a success that Denevan decided to take the show outdoors, literally setting tables up at the farms themselves. Outstanding in the Field has now spawned multiple copycat

Denevan has held dinners in hidden seaside coves, on cliffs overlooking abalone farms and on an island where the tide lapped at guests’ feet. farm in nearby Santa Cruz, where Denevan worked during the summers as a teenager. (Bill Denevan was one of the country’s first officially certified organic farmers.)

It dawned on Jim that others might also enjoy knowing how their food was made and where it was coming from, especially since this wasn’t the massproduced fare most of us are used to, but painstakingly grown, cured, churned

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ventures, but the original remains the most popular.

Over the years, Denevan has held dinners at any number of magnificent locations: hidden seaside coves, on cliffs overlooking abalone farms, on an island in the Puget Sound where the tide lapped at guests’ feet, in vineyards and orchards and at over 100 organic farms and community gardens around the U.S. Next, Denevan and his team will go

global, with dinners in places such as Bali, Italy, Spain, France, Australia and New Zealand.

Because the main goal is to bring the food providers and the guests together, much of each evening is spent meeting and learning about the artisans who provide the food and drinks, and of course, the farm on which the meal is served. “Let’s hear it for the farmer!”

Denevan calls out, and everyone cheers as he introduces West Star’s George Kohn, a shy, Santa Claus– looking fellow in dungarees. Kohn recalls how he and his wife bought the 40-acre farm in ’93 and have come to grow around 90 varieties of crops, the majority of which are distributed among 76 families through the local community-supported agriculture group, or CSA. Kohn says he’s so serious about organic farming that if he has the slightest suspicion some crops were accidentally sprayed by the neighboring farm’s airplanes, he has them tested or just throws out the whole batch. He takes us on a complete tour of the farm, stopping to show us cucumber plants treated with a granular form of coyote

08/10/2009 11:59

Best coverage worldwide.

food &drink scent “to keep out the raccoons.”

During the tour, it’s hard not to notice chef Tory Miller chopping multicolored tomatoes in his makeshift kitchen, which consists of two propane tanks and portable grills. The walk around the farm builds up our appetites, and everyone scrambles to the table when dinnertime is announced, free to grab chairs wherever they like.

“Hey, New York!” someone calls out in my direction. “Come sit over here!” My tablemate turns out to be an excitable film producer named Cody who lives in Minneapolis and keeps us all entertained with stories about growing up the son of Montana farmhands, not knowing until he was a teenager that vegetables could actually be bought in stores. The wine is poured liberally, and the first part of the five-course dinner comes out familystyle, in a big bowl: West Star Farm beets topped with Anne and Judy’s “La Roche” cheese, dressed with smoked almonds, white balsamic and wildflower honey.

This is followed by those bright tomatoes we eyed during the tour, topped with Willow Creek pork belly and arugula. The proprietors of Willow Creek roam around, talking about their business. One’s a fourth-generation hog farmer; the other has secret recipes for Polish kielbasa that have been passed down for more than 100 years. The belly is followed by their pork loin atop a sweet corn tamale with dark chocolate mole sauce, and after that comes another main dish of Fountain Prairie Farm ribeye.

LOIN TAMING The Willow Creek pork loin with chocolate mole; right, a diner getting a refill.

In between collective exclamations of “yum,” “mmm,” and “ohmygod you have to try this,” conversation is easygoing, 137 strangers bonding over the unique experience of eating well in such an unusual setting.

Meanwhile, the sun has set and a bright moon appears. Thousands of flickering fireflies surround us.

Denevan, increasingly relaxed now that most of the work is done, chats with the guests about his life touring the country and setting up dinners. He stops at our section of the table and regales us with the tale of a recent dinner in Minneapolis, during which dessert had to be served in the greenhouse when a thunderstorm came out of nowhere and drenched the farm. “It was maybe the most phenomenal dinner ever,” he says. “We all stood in the greenhouse drinking wine and eating dessert as this incredibly intense storm engulfed us.

We were all yelling and having a great time. And then it completely cleared up twenty-five minutes later.”

Denevan’s culinary adventure will continue stateside through December, when he’ll take a little winter break to toil over his large-scale public artworks (gigantic earthworks not unlike crop circles) and confer with Oursler on future OITF destinations. “It’s so exciting to see people have such enthusiasm for knowing where their food comes from,” he says. “It really brings meaning to the table. And everyone likes being outdoors.

It’s just fun.”

GILLIAN TELLING’s favorite place to eat in New York is in her own Brooklyn backyard.

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13/10/2009 11:29

CULTURE | NOVEMBER 2009

diary

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MISTY MOUNTAIN STOP The author’s “rick” during a pit stop on the road to Darjeeling.

A Passage Through India

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The tuk tuk, a rickety three-wheeled contraption, is best suited for short trips in traffic-clogged cities. Taking one for a 2,000-mile spin across the subcontinent is not for the faint of heart. // BY RICHARD KNAPP THERE’S A SAYING IN INDIA that’s often repeated to newcomers: “If you come here without patience, you will learn it.

If you come with patience, you will lose it.” I’m about to lose mine in a big way.

I’ve spent the past four hours clutching the steering wheel of a tuk tuk, or auto-rickshaw (“rick” for short), a three-wheeled vehicle of dubious reliability and a maximum speed of 35 mph (downhill). Aaron, one of my oldest friends, is sitting behind me eyeing the road dubiously. “You’re going to have to drop down to first gear again,” he says. And he’s right. The road we’re on is a maddening conspiracy of unpaved sinkholes that threaten to snap our axle.

We’re exhausted and hungry and have been vibrating violently for most of the day. We’ve almost been killed a

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half-dozen times. And at the moment, as I’m slowly negotiating a ditch, a lorry is on my tail (imagine a giant dump truck painted in vibrant colors and bearing messages, prayers and the eyes of Ganesh emblazoned across its grill).

The driver lays on his horn, not so much to ask me to move as to indicate that he is not going to stop, and that if I don’t get out of his way, I’m done for.

The next thing I know, Aaron is dragging me back toward the rickshaw.

He looks worried.

“What just happened?” I ask, dazed.

“You flipped. You just started screaming, ‘I can hear you!’ Then you got out of the rick and chased him. I’m pretty sure you were going to try and fight the lorry.” He takes a deep breath.

“Do you need me to drive?”

“Yes. Yes, I need you to drive,” I say, calming down. Later, it would become all too clear how truly dangerous such trucks can be, but that lesson is still four days and 600 miles down the road.

At this point, we’ve been in India for 15 days as part of the sixth Rickshaw Run. Each year, a group called the League of Adventurists signs up 60 teams from around the world to race 2,000 miles across the subcontinent.

The league is specific about the rules: There are none. If you get arrested— tough. Hurt—nice knowing you. Lost— well, isn’t that what you signed up for?

We started in Pondicherry, a former French colony on the southeast coast.

After a few days of prep and a crash course in the intuitive art of Indian driving, we set out. The finish line was

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NOVEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

to be in Shillong in the hill provinces northeast of Bangladesh. Of the 60 teams, four decided to head inland instead of taking the coastal route: Rick Dangerous, the Midnight Riders, a team comprising an Aussie and a Canadian who couldn’t seem to agree on a name, and The Dehlicious, which was us.

We traveled in a loose pack, losing each other and reuniting at random intervals on the chaotic, often unmarked roads. Most nights we would rendezvous at a hotel and gather for drinks before hitting the sack early and setting out at dawn together.

Communicating by cell phone, we helped each other through breakdowns, exhaustion and missed turns.

Our first stop was Gingee, a village of dirt streets filled with small vendors. As we pulled into town in the waning light of our first day, an ancient Chola fort rose above us. It was a heart-stopping sight, but sightseeing wasn’t our goal. We’d come to see the India hidden from the tour buses and hotels designed for Western tourists and weekend Buddhists. We were after complete immersion.

Which is why, later that night, when Garreth of Rick Dangerous suggested grabbing a beer, we didn’t hesitate to follow a stranger down a dark alley to a drab little room lit with flickering fluorescent bulbs. Gingee is for the most part a dry town and the room wasn’t a

THREE AMIGOS The Midnight Riders’

rickshaw would eventually blow a tire.

bar so much as a quiet gathering place.

Locals ran off to grab us beers and pints of whiskey from a store farther down the alley. Though they added a reasonable markup, the evening was an unforgettable introduction to the kindness of the Indian people. Our brand new friends crowded around, confused as to what nine confused looking Westerners were doing in their speakeasy and entranced by Garreth’s bright red beard, which he grudgingly let the boldest among them stroke.

Back in the hotel, we filtered water from the tap, struggled to adapt to the nuances of Indian toilets and then wrapped ourselves in sleeping bags and went to sleep.

The next morning we rode out into a countryside bathed in sunlight. Cattle herded by young men grazed in fields that spread out for miles, interrupted only occasionally by a stand of trees or an errant rock formation. The road quickly turned from broken pavement to dirt and carried us farther away from the scattered towns we’d seen in the early

ACCIDENTAL TOURISTS Removing Power Stallion’s roof after a crash.

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morning. Before long, we realized we were completely lost. After regaining our bearings and retracing our steps we headed north, this time on the right road.

We had been warned at the start about driving at night and resolved to make our daily goals before nightfall.

This resolution lasted through the first day, after which we were always behind schedule and continued plowing along well past sunset. While driving during the day can be slow due to traffic, it’s fairly simple to accomplish once you master the vehicular pecking order (ricks are above pedestrians, cyclists and motorcycles but below cars, lorries and buses). Night driving is another story, involving a complicated semaphore of honks, flashed headlights and muttered curses.

I let Aaron handle Chittoor on that second night, not yet feeling confident in my driving ability. After two hours, he was an emotional wreck. We decided to stop for the evening a couple hundred miles short of our goal.

The following days were a full immersion in parts of India rarely seen by tourists. As we cruised past sunflower fields that extended to the horizon, locals pulled up alongside us to converse at full speed. “Where are you from?” “Why are you here?”

“Where are you going?” We were always treated with kindness and given directions—usually correct ones. At one point we lost a bolt that held our muffler in place, and locals appeared and fashioned a sling from banyan leaves and wire.

By the end of the fourth day of racing we had reached Hyderabad.

Our hosts for the evening were Daniel and Shirley, the parents of a friend of Aaron’s who had invited us stay at their home. They had been told about the race, but I doubt anything could have prepared them for nine of the dirtiest, most exhausted and starving people they had ever seen stomping into their apartment. They watched in awe as we decimated the entire menu of a local restaurant (twice), but in a testament to their hospitality, they refused to allow us to contribute to a bill that

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was large by American standards and astronomical by Indian ones.

After an evening of hot showers, air conditioning and beds with clean linens, it was hard to leave, but we had a schedule to keep and five days to reach Varanasi, one of the major objectives of the trip. When the Midnight Riders’ rickshaw blew a tire just 20 minutes outside of Hyderabad and we made only 70 miles on the day, we knew there’d be some serious traveling ahead of us.

We did what we had to do, taking three-to-four-hour shifts and pushing

a millennium, Hindus have come to Varanasi to cremate their dead on the banks of the Ganges. It is a city in which the fabric of life appears frayed with age, revealing each thread and layer—sometimes to an overwhelming degree. At night, trash fires burn in the streets as cattle mill about aimlessly, eating what they can find. On every corner, women holding screaming infants grabbed at our clothes begging for money. Men approached us reaching out to shake hands—only to keep the hand and provide unsolicited

It is a city in which the fabric of life appears frayed with age, revealing each thread and layer— sometimes to an overwhelming degree.

12 hours each day. In the mountains we crawled through misty passes and dense forest, the blur of green punctuated here and there by clusters of wildflowers, or the bright reds and yellows worn by women working in vast cotton fields. At night we slept in roadside motels on mattresses riddled with bedbugs or, if the city were large enough, the nicest hotel we could find.

We awoke before dawn to pack our gear and hit the road, generally gulping down a few cups of chai for breakfast.

We pulled into Varanasi at dusk, eager to experience one of the world’s holiest cities. For well over

massages, expecting a tip. Children are everywhere, hawking beads and flowers. Inevitably, perhaps, given the city’s history, death permeates everything, at once a spectacle and a business. In the morning, Aaron and I found ourselves standing over a burning body. “We’re just tourists at a funeral,” I said. “Let’s get out of here.”

It felt strange to leave, as we’d placed so much importance on the city during our planning. One thing we’d already begun to realize, however, is that the places you’re told are sacred aren’t always the ones where you actually feel touched by the divine.

GETTING SCHOOLED Local students wish us luck.

After a brief stop in Bodh Gaya, we headed north, aiming to spend a day in Darjeeling. We were confident now.

We knew the ropes, and the days flew.

Passing through vast tea fields we drove in silence, lost in our own thoughts as the golden sun set to the west. On a steep mountain road, we paused to stare off into the distance where the highest peaks of the Himalayas are visible, Everest shrouded in fog somewhere among them. In Darjeeling, we found a shrine at the top of the city and a rare moment of silence. In a small town just days from the finish line, a restaurant owner kept his establishment open late and fed us a vegetarian meal of chili paneer, dahl and naan that tops anything I’ve eaten in New York’s most elegant Indian restaurants.

On our last day of driving, passing through a hilly stretch near the finish line in Shillong, we encountered four of the other teams—cheering and yelling to one another like old friends reunited after decades apart. We were almost there.

That’s when, out of nowhere, another lorry appears and nearly kills us all.

Barreling down the hill at top speed, it causes two teams to flip their ricks.

For a second, it looks as though the trip is ending in tragedy. We sprint down the road toward the crushed ricks, our hearts pounding as the lorry speeds away without a glance from the driver.

Miraculously, no one is injured, but the ricks are crushed. With a little creative demolition we rip the canopies and cracked windshields off the vehicles, and the beleaguered teams putter along in their convertibles for the last 30 miles as we follow close behind.

Aaron and I wind up in 25th place, but so what? The trip was never really about winning. Not only had we raised more than $3,500 for charity, we’d gained something ourselves—though even now it’s hard to say just what. I do know that landing in New York three days later, I would wonder where everyone was, why there wasn’t any noise or color to speak of. I would miss India.

RICHARD KNAPP will be returning to India in the spring. This time, he’ll be traveling by train.

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to be in Shillong in the hill provinces northeast of Bangladesh. Of the 60 teams, four decided to head inland instead of taking the coastal route: Rick Dangerous, the Midnight Riders, a team comprising an Aussie and a Canadian who couldn’t seem to agree on a name, and The Dehlicious, which was us.

We traveled in a loose pack, losing each other and reuniting at random intervals on the chaotic, often unmarked roads. Most nights we would rendezvous at a hotel and gather for drinks before hitting the sack early and setting out at dawn together.

Communicating by cell phone, we helped each other through breakdowns, exhaustion and missed turns.

Our first stop was Gingee, a village of dirt streets filled with small vendors. As we pulled into town in the waning light of our first day, an ancient Chola fort rose above us. It was a heart-stopping sight, but sightseeing wasn’t our goal. We’d come to see the India hidden from the tour buses and hotels designed for Western tourists and weekend Buddhists. We were after complete immersion.

Which is why, later that night, when Garreth of Rick Dangerous suggested grabbing a beer, we didn’t hesitate to follow a stranger down a dark alley to a drab little room lit with flickering fluorescent bulbs. Gingee is for the most part a dry town and the room wasn’t a

THREE AMIGOS The Midnight Riders’

rickshaw would eventually blow a tire.

bar so much as a quiet gathering place.

Locals ran off to grab us beers and pints of whiskey from a store farther down the alley. Though they added a reasonable markup, the evening was an unforgettable introduction to the kindness of the Indian people. Our brand new friends crowded around, confused as to what nine confused looking Westerners were doing in their speakeasy and entranced by Garreth’s bright red beard, which he grudgingly let the boldest among them stroke.

Back in the hotel, we filtered water from the tap, struggled to adapt to the nuances of Indian toilets and then wrapped ourselves in sleeping bags and went to sleep.

The next morning we rode out into a countryside bathed in sunlight. Cattle herded by young men grazed in fields that spread out for miles, interrupted only occasionally by a stand of trees or an errant rock formation. The road quickly turned from broken pavement to dirt and carried us farther away from the scattered towns we’d seen in the early

ACCIDENTAL TOURISTS Removing Power Stallion’s roof after a crash.

HEM_1109_Diary.indd 2

morning. Before long, we realized we were completely lost. After regaining our bearings and retracing our steps we headed north, this time on the right road.

We had been warned at the start about driving at night and resolved to make our daily goals before nightfall.

This resolution lasted through the first day, after which we were always behind schedule and continued plowing along well past sunset. While driving during the day can be slow due to traffic, it’s fairly simple to accomplish once you master the vehicular pecking order (ricks are above pedestrians, cyclists and motorcycles but below cars, lorries and buses). Night driving is another story, involving a complicated semaphore of honks, flashed headlights and muttered curses.

I let Aaron handle Chittoor on that second night, not yet feeling confident in my driving ability. After two hours, he was an emotional wreck. We decided to stop for the evening a couple hundred miles short of our goal.

The following days were a full immersion in parts of India rarely seen by tourists. As we cruised past sunflower fields that extended to the horizon, locals pulled up alongside us to converse at full speed. “Where are you from?” “Why are you here?”

“Where are you going?” We were always treated with kindness and given directions—usually correct ones. At one point we lost a bolt that held our muffler in place, and locals appeared and fashioned a sling from banyan leaves and wire.

By the end of the fourth day of racing we had reached Hyderabad.

Our hosts for the evening were Daniel and Shirley, the parents of a friend of Aaron’s who had invited us stay at their home. They had been told about the race, but I doubt anything could have prepared them for nine of the dirtiest, most exhausted and starving people they had ever seen stomping into their apartment. They watched in awe as we decimated the entire menu of a local restaurant (twice), but in a testament to their hospitality, they refused to allow us to contribute to a bill that

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was large by American standards and astronomical by Indian ones.

After an evening of hot showers, air conditioning and beds with clean linens, it was hard to leave, but we had a schedule to keep and five days to reach Varanasi, one of the major objectives of the trip. When the Midnight Riders’ rickshaw blew a tire just 20 minutes outside of Hyderabad and we made only 70 miles on the day, we knew there’d be some serious traveling ahead of us.

We did what we had to do, taking three-to-four-hour shifts and pushing

a millennium, Hindus have come to Varanasi to cremate their dead on the banks of the Ganges. It is a city in which the fabric of life appears frayed with age, revealing each thread and layer—sometimes to an overwhelming degree. At night, trash fires burn in the streets as cattle mill about aimlessly, eating what they can find. On every corner, women holding screaming infants grabbed at our clothes begging for money. Men approached us reaching out to shake hands—only to keep the hand and provide unsolicited

It is a city in which the fabric of life appears frayed with age, revealing each thread and layer— sometimes to an overwhelming degree.

12 hours each day. In the mountains we crawled through misty passes and dense forest, the blur of green punctuated here and there by clusters of wildflowers, or the bright reds and yellows worn by women working in vast cotton fields. At night we slept in roadside motels on mattresses riddled with bedbugs or, if the city were large enough, the nicest hotel we could find.

We awoke before dawn to pack our gear and hit the road, generally gulping down a few cups of chai for breakfast.

We pulled into Varanasi at dusk, eager to experience one of the world’s holiest cities. For well over

massages, expecting a tip. Children are everywhere, hawking beads and flowers. Inevitably, perhaps, given the city’s history, death permeates everything, at once a spectacle and a business. In the morning, Aaron and I found ourselves standing over a burning body. “We’re just tourists at a funeral,” I said. “Let’s get out of here.”

It felt strange to leave, as we’d placed so much importance on the city during our planning. One thing we’d already begun to realize, however, is that the places you’re told are sacred aren’t always the ones where you actually feel touched by the divine.

GETTING SCHOOLED Local students wish us luck.

After a brief stop in Bodh Gaya, we headed north, aiming to spend a day in Darjeeling. We were confident now.

We knew the ropes, and the days flew.

Passing through vast tea fields we drove in silence, lost in our own thoughts as the golden sun set to the west. On a steep mountain road, we paused to stare off into the distance where the highest peaks of the Himalayas are visible, Everest shrouded in fog somewhere among them. In Darjeeling, we found a shrine at the top of the city and a rare moment of silence. In a small town just days from the finish line, a restaurant owner kept his establishment open late and fed us a vegetarian meal of chili paneer, dahl and naan that tops anything I’ve eaten in New York’s most elegant Indian restaurants.

On our last day of driving, passing through a hilly stretch near the finish line in Shillong, we encountered four of the other teams—cheering and yelling to one another like old friends reunited after decades apart. We were almost there.

That’s when, out of nowhere, another lorry appears and nearly kills us all.

Barreling down the hill at top speed, it causes two teams to flip their ricks.

For a second, it looks as though the trip is ending in tragedy. We sprint down the road toward the crushed ricks, our hearts pounding as the lorry speeds away without a glance from the driver.

Miraculously, no one is injured, but the ricks are crushed. With a little creative demolition we rip the canopies and cracked windshields off the vehicles, and the beleaguered teams putter along in their convertibles for the last 30 miles as we follow close behind.

Aaron and I wind up in 25th place, but so what? The trip was never really about winning. Not only had we raised more than $3,500 for charity, we’d gained something ourselves—though even now it’s hard to say just what. I do know that landing in New York three days later, I would wonder where everyone was, why there wasn’t any noise or color to speak of. I would miss India.

RICHARD KNAPP will be returning to India in the spring. This time, he’ll be traveling by train.

HEM_1109_Diary.indd 3

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08/10/2009 11:40

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2009

65

artifact

66 HAIL BERRY Does the latest superfruit have a sour aftertaste?

By Edward Lewine

73 PRESENT PERFECT Our global guide to holiday gift-giving

By Adam K. Raymond

84 3PD: NEW ORLEANS Past meets future in Crescent City.

By Ethan Brown

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BY EDWARD LEWINE ILLUSTRATIONS BY KAKO

BUT HOW GOOD IS THIS HEALTH TREND FOR THE AMAZON AND ITS PEOPLE?

THE LATEST IN A LONG LINE OF EXOTIC “CRAZE CROPS” TO HIT AMERICAN SHORES, THE AMAZONIAN SUPERFRUIT AÇAI IS REVERED AS EVERYTHING FROM AN ICE CREAM FLAVOR TO THE FOUNTAIN OF YOUTH.

HAIL BERRY

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM NOVEMBER 2009 67

THE RIVERBOATS EMERGE, ONE BY ONE, FROM THE PREDAWN JUNGLE.

THEY’RE BEAT UP AND CRUSTED WITH MUD, HAVING TRAVELED HUNDREDS OF MILES DOWNRIVER FROM DEEP IN THE AMAZON BASIN. AS THE SCOWS TIE UP TO THE WHARVES AT THE VER-O-PESO, A SPRAWLING MARKETPLACE IN BELÉM, THE CITY AT THE MOUTH OF THE MIGHTY RIVER, CROWDS OF PRODUCE BUYERS ASSEMBLE ON THE DOCKS. THEY ARE HERE TO BID ON THE BOATS’ PRECIOUS CARGO: BRIMMING RATTAN BUSHELS OF AÇAI BERRIES, PICKED FRESH FROM PALM TREES IN THE DISTANT RAIN FOREST. THE BERRIES ARE AS BLACK AS THE INKY AMAZON NIGHT. THEY ARE ALSO ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT REGIONAL EXPORTS TO COME ALONG IN DECADES. in the United States rose more than promote weight loss and cure cancer.

Just a year ago, the açai would have 100 percent, to around $107 million, Now it’s açai’s moment. Take a hike, been unloaded under the harsh work between 2007 and 2008. pomegranate; shove off, mangosteen; lights and carted to the main market, For all its popularity, this berry is still beat it, noni. A proven source of where it would be sold alongside the really just a fad in the States, designed antioxidants, omega-3 fatty acids pigs, chickens, lizards and a mindto tickle jaded palates in trend-obsessed and fiber—the holy trinity of current boggling variety of spices, herbs and provinces like Orange County and nutritional obsessions—açai is the otherworldly fruits and vegetables.

Manhattan. In the rain forest, though, “craze crop” du jour.

These days, though, the magic berries it is a staple food that’s been crucial Saunter down to the local health are brought to something called the to the local diet for centuries, its trees food purveyor or, increasingly, your Açai Fair, a new sector of the Ver-o-Peso a vital renewable resource. Some corner convenience store, and you’ll see kept separate from the other goods. experts fear that increased worldwide shelves laden with a dizzying array of It’s a sign of the times. Every few years demand for the berries will soon drive açai-based offerings. The New York Times another “superfruit” comes along— up prices, putting them out of reach reports that 53 new açai (pronounced from mango and blueberries to goji for those who rely on them most—with ah-sigh-EE) products were unveiled in berries, guava, lychee and yuzu—and is devastating results for the local diet.

2008, up from just four in 2004. Sales said to replenish the body, fight aging, 68 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM NOVEMBER 2009

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OUT OF THE WILD

The berries are transported hundreds of miles by riverboat and sold by the bushel at the Ver-o-Peso in Belém.

And environmentalists fret about the impact of increased cultivation on already overtaxed ecosystems.

So, can you enjoy your açai smoothie without feeling guilty? In trying to do the right thing, are you actually inadvertently causing harm?

“I wouldn’t go as far as to say the açai craze has been bad for the Amazon,” says Christiane Ehringhaus, a German who has spent nine years in Amazonian Brazil doing research for the Center for International Forestry Research, or CIFOR. “But as with everything in the world, there are trade-offs.”

T

HE SUN HAS COME

up over the Ver-o-Peso, and stevedores pause in their labors to visit the brightly colored food stalls. They crowd the counters, gulping guaraná juice and

slurping savory bowls of açai. The açai palm grows throughout the Amazon, which covers around 40 percent of South America. The slender palms can reach 100 feet tall, and they thrive especially along the banks of the river itself and in the vast estuary region where northern Brazil meets the Atlantic. As a result, açai is easy to harvest, and people in the countryside of Amazonas have always considered it a miracle fruit. In the 1970s, as large populations left the jungle to find work in cities, they took their love for açai with them.

“Açai provides a significant proportion of the caloric base of the regional diet,” says Eduardo Brondizio, an anthropologist at Indiana University.

“People eat it raw and unsweetened, mixed with flour to accompany a protein. It’s also important culturally.

For a lot of these people, it isn’t a meal without açai.”

In the 1990s, Brazilians in the big southern cities of Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo discovered açai and began consuming it for its reputed health benefits. Several years ago, the trend spread to the United States. Brondizio estimates that demand for açai has increased more than tenfold since the

1980s, leading to a vast expansion of açai harvesting.

Meanwhile, the rising price of the berries has been a nightmare for the Brazilian urban poor, who rely upon açai for basic nutrition. Though the cost has remained unchanged in the cities, observers say distributors are increasingly diluting the product.

“The açai sold in many places has become colored water,” Brondizio says.

“Sellers add corn starch, flour, cooked beets and ice cream emulsifiers.”

Traditionally, açai hasn’t so much been farmed as harvested from wild or semiwild forests. The palms are plentiful. (No danger of açai extinction—yet.) Most of the harvesting is done on forested plots smaller than a square mile, which are managed and worked by the plots’ owners or tenant farmers. Workers collect the berries and sell them to middlemen, who ship them out of the region.

“Açai might represent a third of the income for the family for the year,” notes Jamie Cotta, an American who has been doing research on forest management in Brazil for the World Agroforestry Centre since April.

“They’ll make less than two dollars a day. They aren’t destitute, but in most

70 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM NOVEMBER 2009

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TO A SHELF NEAR YOU

Eventually, açai reaches the consumer as anything from a vitamin supplement and smoothie ingredient to an ice cream flavor.

cases they would be suffering from malnutrition without the work.”

“As demand for açai has grown,” says Brondizio, who wrote The Amazonian Caboclo and the Açai Palm: Forest Farmers in the Global Market, “it has begun to be produced throughout the Amazon. Now açai is the most important crop for the entire rain forest.”

Ryan Black, the American founder and CEO of Sambazon—a California company that jumped on the açai bandwagon about 10 years ago and today accounts for around 40 percent of U.S. imports—insists açai is a winwin business, giving Amazonians an incentive to preserve their forests and the money to improve their lives.

“It’s a sustainable crop that provides economic growth,” he claims. “And the more we sell, the better it is for the environment.”

Though that seems too good to be true, Miguel Pinedo-Vasquez, an associate professor of anthropology at Columbia University, agrees. He says the açai boom has indeed expanded the forest as locals plant trees in formerly deforested areas.

“There’s actually a process of reforestation going on,” Pinedo-Vasquez says.

Nonetheless, other experts worry that açai palms are being planted at the

HEM_1109_Acai.indd 6

expense of other species, and the rain forest of tomorrow will lack the biodiversity of the original Amazon. The long-term effects could be serious. “This is much less terrible than chopping down whole forests,” Christiane Ehringhaus concedes, “but the market is a powerful thing, and it is transforming the rain forest in a big way.”

Perhaps, but Black insists açai has helped pump tens of millions of dollars into what has always been a dirt-poor region, perhaps forestalling more environmentally damaging activities like cattle ranching.

“EVERY YEAR, THE FARMERS OF THE AMAZON BECOME MORE ECONOMICALLY VULNERABLE. WHAT HAPPENS IF THE AÇAI CRAZE GOES BUST?

“One of my growers has a satellite dish and flat-screen TV in his little Amazon chug-chug boat,” Black says.

“These guys are rich.”

In fact, the majority of the harvesters have yet to share in the hefty profits the wholesalers and middlemen enjoy, though they have become increasingly dependent on açai for their livelihoods.

“Each year, the farmers become more economically vulnerable,” Cotta says.

“What happens if the açai craze goes bust?”

That is troubling. The nature of cureall crazes is that they tend to peter out eventually, debunked by science or displaced by the next exotic panacea.

(Remember echinacea and ginseng?)

Although the açai craze has been a boon for the Amazon on balance, observers such as Ehringhaus say the hard part—protecting the rain forest and making sure the financial bounty trickles down to harvesters—is really yet to come.

“It would be a shame if Americans stopped buying açai,” Ehringhaus says.

“But it would be nice to find a better trade-off.”

Contributing writer EDWARD LEWINE is still convinced that ginseng increases his stamina.

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73

PRESENT PERFECT! A GLOBAL GUIDE TO THE GIFTS YOU SHOULD GIVE THIS HOLIDAY SEASON...

AND, IF YOU’RE LUCKY, THE ONES YOU’LL RECEIVE. BY ADAM K. RAYMOND // PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN LAWTON It’s not easy to tell you this, but you’re a bad gift giver. Remember that time you gave your sister an electric egg scrambler? The good news is you’re not alone. Most everyone is terrible at giving gifts. Sure, there are exceptions. Some people strategize in July, shop in September, and in December, when the rest of us are lacing up our cross trainers for a sprint through the local mall, they’ve got it all wrapped up. For people who can 1 UNITED KINGDOM admit their weakness, there are gift guides, attempts by the knowledgeable to > THEY BUILT THIS CITY When the recommend presents that could defy the odds and spark a genuine “Thank you.” toy company Hamleys set out to That’s what this is—with a twist. These gifts span the globe, and each is tied to the create London in a Bag they had two place it comes from. In the end, our hope is that you give your loved ones something choices: shrink the city or create a really huge bag. Wisely, they chose they couldn’t get at the mall, something with a story. Which means no more egg the former. / $21 / culturelabel.com scramblers—please.

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GIF T

G UIDE

1

2

3

4

1

USA

2

DENMARK

3

AUSTRALIA

> FACE IT / Samsung has finally

> TIME’S UP / In 1971, Arne

> AW, NUTS! / The macadamia

released a digital camera with the U.S. in mind. Recognizing Americans’ penchant for turning the camera on themselves, they’ve put a screen on the front, allowing some accuracy with that vanity. / $350 / samsung.com

Jacobsen, father of the modern Danish aesthetic, designed this clock for the Danish National Bank. Now he’d love to see it on your wall. / $370 / ameico.com

shell has long existed in the shadow of the tasty nut that resides within. No longer, as the Husque bowl, made from ground shells and polymer, gives the outer layer its due. / $200 / productswithstyle.com

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4

USA

> NERVE CENTER / Two MIT graduates started N-E-R-V-O-U-S

“to explore a design approach that relates process and form in a context of interactivity and openness.” Of course, you don’t have to understand that bit to enjoy their necklaces. / $75 / n-e-r-v-o-u-s.com

09/10/2009 16:47

8

7

5

5

TAIWAN

6

6

SWEDEN

7

SWITZERLAND

8

FINLAND

> OM / These salt and pepper

> RED PHONE / Land lines are

> IN THE RED / With four drivers

> TURN IT ON / With just a cord,

shakers impart a zen-like effect on your kitchen. So the next time you spill something, you won’t even care. / $32 / sfmoma.stores.yahoo.net

on the way out, and we’re not pretending otherwise. But if anything’s capable of reversing that trend, it’s the ScandiPhone. / $65 / sfmoma.stores.yahoo.net

and a 100-watt amplifier inside an eye-popping red exterior, this Geneva sound system (with CD player, iPod dock, FM radio) sounds just as good as it looks.

And it looks spectacular. / $980 / genevasound.com

socket and bulb, this E27 Pendant light from Finland deconstructs the lamp to its core elements. It’s quite a turn-on. / $85 / dwr.com

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1

2

3

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FRANCE

> JUST SAY SNOW / These super-

versatile Rossignol skis can handle packed snow and fluffy powder.

Don’t be fooled by the fashionable design—they’re not for the dance floor. / $800 /backcountry.com

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2

SWITZERLAND

> ON WATCH / This Franc Vila timepiece is big, heavy and full of delicate moving parts, just like the man who’d love to receive it. / $25,000 / francvila.com

3

SWEDEN

> SCREEN TEST / Texting

and driving is never okay.

Not even with the Xperia Pureness and its completely transparent screen. / $33 / sonyericsson.com

4

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NETHERLANDS

> GOLD SOUNDS / With all the attention given to high-definition picture quality, plasma, LCD, etc., television sound has fallen by the wayside.

Philips’ latest soundbar corrects that. / $300 / philips.com

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5

5

6

GERMANY

7

6

SOUTH KOREA

7

USA

> PEN AT WORK / With no ink to run out and

> CURVE APPEAL / South Korean company

> EAR SUPPLY / It’s not enough that

no lead to break off, the Beta Inkless Pen will last a lifetime. As long as you don’t lose it. / $28 / jzpen.com

Cowon sees no reason why Apple should be alone in emphasizing design. And its aptly named media player, the S9 Curve, performs even better than it looks. / $263 / amazon.com

Dr. Dre is one of the greatest rappers and music producers of all time—but now he’s released a pair of world-class headphones. / $300 / beatsbydre.com

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MEXICO

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> HOUSE OF CARDBOARD

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> HEAD LOCK / Don’t let these

that only 12-foot-tall men could carry kayaks on their backs.

Then Folbot and its completely collapsible kayak came along and changed the game. / $1,200 / folbot.com

Designed by a Dutch couple in their “test lab of imagination,” the MobileHome is easy to put together, easy to carry and easy to look at. / $39 / hipfromholland.com

game uses pieces handcarved in Kenya and handpainted in Germany, making a truly international game. Take that, Risk. / $190 / ameico.com

piggy banks from Mexican designers DFC scare you: These wrestlers are tecnicos (those are the good guys). / $55 / dfcasa.com

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USA

> BOARD SILLY / These skateboard decks might be a little

too pretty to actually skateboard on. Better to just hang them on the wall and admire. / $400 / testcollective.com

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GERMANY

> WHEELS UP / In 2000, German shipping-pallet company Sirch decided to start producing toys.

The result: the Flix Push Car, which is made of molded ash plywood and is pretty much the BMW of kiddie cars. / $190 /ameico.com

7

JAPAN

> THE MASK / Generally it’s hard to get excited about tape, but tape generally doesn’t look like this. Made from Japanese washi paper, this sticky stuff isn’t for the outside of gifts, it’s the gift itself. / $12 for a set of 3 / dwr.com

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HAITI

> CHOP CHOP / This Miyabi

> BOOZE BROTHERS / It was almost

> GIMME SOME SKIN / This cowhide

> BOWLED OVER / Hand carved

knife from Zwilling J.A. Henckels is made of 32 layers of steel wrapped around a core of CMV60 steel.

Translation: It’s really sharp. / $100 / cutleryandmore.com

500 years ago that monks in France created Bénédictine, an herbal liqueur. The recipe is still a closely guarded secret, and those monks aren’t talking. / $27 / wineanthology.com

and tanned leather iPod sleeve from Florida company Southern Brand allows country boys to carry fancy gizmos without looking like city folk. / $29/ southernbrand.com

from obeechi wood in Haiti, this bowl and servers won’t make your salad taste any better. But it’ll sure look delicious. / $175 / tenthousandvillages.com

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BELGIUM

> KNIFE SKILLS / This

> BEAT BOX / Twenty years from now, when

> WHAT A CROCK / Demeyere’s Atlantis sauté

“alpaca” steel and deer horn carving set goes perfectly with traditional Argentine grub straight off the parilla. / $365 /calypso-celle.com

teenagers are making weird music of a not-yetinvented genre, it will be with the Tenori-On, a Japanese instrument with a 16-by-16 LEDbutton visual musical interface. And it will rock. / $1,000 / tenori-onusa.com

pan is constructed from seven-ply material combining silver, stainless steel and solid copper, all hermetically sealed in its base.

It’s almost a shame to put food in it. / $302 / bloomingdales. com

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GUATEMALA

> HANG OUT / Naps are

always nice, but naps in a handwoven Guatemalan hammock are so much better. / $135 / tenthousandvillages.com

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USA

> HEART FELT / If you think felt is worthy only of kids and glue-sticks, allow this tote from L.A.-based designers Gräf & Lantz to change your mind. / $180 / graf-lantz.com

3

LEBANON

> IN THE CLUTCH / Egyptian pop icon Umm Kulthum didn't have blue hair, as this purse depicts. But no one buys bags for their historical accuracy. / $90 /diadiwan.com

4

NETHERLANDS

> OVER THE TOP / Rather than give the Mini 110 a bland silvery sheen, HP sent its newest notebook off to Dutch designer Tord Boontje. He sent it back with subtle flowers and animals on the shell, specifically for “the environmentally conscious women.” Finally. / $400 / hp.com

09/10/2009 16:50

The only hospital in Louisiana

RECENTLY NAMED ONE OF AMERICA’S BEST HOSPITALS Ochsner Medical Center – New Orleans recently received this honor from U.S. News & World Report. In fact, we were recognized in three different categories:

r Heart & Heart Surgery r Urology r Ear-Nose-Throat Visit Ochsner.org for more information

Ochsner Health System provides referring physicians a fast, easy way to transfer patients 24 hours a day, seven days a week.

Visit Ochsner.org/transfer for more information, or call the adult or pediatric transfer hotline to transfer a patient today.

Adult Transfers: 1-888-551-4662 Pediatric Transfers: 1-866-985-PEDS (7337)

© 2009 Ochsner Health System (ochsner.org) is a non-profit, academic, multi-specialty, healthcare delivery system dedicated to patient care, research and education.

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NOVEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

Three Perfect Days

84 00

BY ETHAN BROWN

NEW ORLEANS

92 DAY THREE

86 DAY ONE

91 DAY TWO

Scoping out jazz clubs in the Quarter

Eating beignets Shopping for voodoo and and riding a barbecue streetcar

Four years after the storm that left it reeling, New Orleans is ďŹ nally recovering its stride. And then some...

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HORN A-PLENTY A trumpeter at Preservation Hall and, opposite, blackened-shrimp-and-grits-cakes from Boucherie

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NOVEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

MISSISSIPPI QUEEN Clockwise from top, an old-time riverboat, the Royal Café, Arcadian Books and the gates of Jackson Square

EVER SINCE THIS STEAMY DELTA CITY ON THE GULF OF MEXICO WAS FOUNDED IN 1718, New Orleans has been home to swells, vagabonds, riverboat captains, spice merchants and Emeril Lagasse.

The residents are famously easygoing (hence, the Big Easy), the pace slow enough to soothe those seeking refuge from “the real world.” As a figure in literature, New Orleans is as fertile as Paris (Scarlett O’Hara and Rhett Butler honeymooned here; A Confederacy of Dunces hot dog lover Ignatius J. Reilly prowled the French Quarter). Every year, the parades on Fat Tuesday induce near-riots of libidinous bead-tossing along Bourbon Street. Few who enter New Orleans leave the same. It has, as the song goes, “been the ruin of many a poor boy.”

Since the devastation wrought by Hurricane Katrina in 2005, it’s taken some time for Nola to get back on its feet. Now, the rebirth is in full swing. The city is the fastest-growing in the United States, with a staggering level of inventiveness and creative hubbub. Nevermind Emeril; young chefs are injecting new life into a culinary scene that had become overly reliant on French staples and Cajun clichés, and armies of musicians in straw fedoras have reignited the nightclub scene.

Newcomers are flocking here (including The Wire creator David Simon, whose forthcoming HBO series, Treme, is set in the city), and thousands who fled in the storm’s aftermath are returning, proving their undying love for this singular metropolis. To be sure, some parts of town are inhospitable to visitors, but for the most part, Nola has its groove back. In fact, in some ways the new New Orleans might just be even better than the old one.

1

DAY ONE Start your jaunt at the Soniat House (1), a boutique

hotel made up of three splendid Victorian-era townhouses in the lower Quarter. For breakfast, venture no farther than the courtyard for a mug of dark and earthy chicory coffee and biscuits warmed on hot stones. Then walk to the heart of the French Quarter. Start your visit at Arcadian Books & Art Prints (2), a hole in the wall with towering stacks of French and Louisiana-centric literature, where you’ll pick up a reissue of New Orleans City Guide 1938 and marvel at how little the city has changed over the years.

Walk a few blocks south to historic Jackson Square (3), the

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P H O T O G R A P H S BY C H R I S G R A N G E R ( P R E V I O U S S P R E A D A N D T H I S PAG E T O P ) , P C L /A L A M Y (O P P O S I T E ) , G. E . A R N O L D/ T H E T I M E S - P I CAY U N E / L A N D OV ( CAT H E D R A L ) , A N D C O U R T E SY O F J O NAT H A N W E S T ( A R CA D I A N B O O K S )

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G. E . A R N O L D/ T H E T I M E S - P I CAY U N E / L A N D OV ( CAT H E D R A L ) , A N D C O U R T E SY O F J O NAT H A N W E S T ( A R CA D I A N B O O K S )

3PD NEW ORLEANS

SALLIE ANN GLASSMAN VOODOO PURVEYOR // “I love that New Orleans dances to an Afro-Caribbean beat, and I really love the Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve, which is as beautiful as a Monet painting.”

Quarter’s bustling geographical heart. Just beyond is St. Louis Cathedral and the Cabildo, an imposing 18th century edifice that houses the Louisiana State Museum. Step inside to check out the fantastic exhibit “From Tramps to Kings: 100 Years of Zulu,” which chronicles the centurylong history of the Zulu Social Aid and Pleasure Club, a mainstay of the annual Fat Tuesday parade.

Pass through touristy Pirates Alley to the outskirts of Jackson Square for lunch at Stanley (4). Since opening in the fall of 2008, Stanley (as in Kowalski, from A Streetcar Named Desire) has rewritten the sandwich rules in this po’ boy–centric town. The kitchen whips out masterful modern interpretations of deli standards like the Reuben. For dessert, challenge yourself with the “Stella Uptown Sundae,” a dangerous blend of carrot cake, three scoops of rum raisin ice cream, sweet cream cheese sauce, whipped cream and a cherry. Waddle slowly to the river side of Jackson Square to Café Du Monde (5), a round-the-clock institution that’s been serving beignets and the same chicory coffee blend since the Civil War. Ask for a café au lait (the beignets will have to wait a day, but your waistline will thank you), then stroll along the river to the Louisiana Music Factory (6). Here you’ll browse this sprawling record store specializing in the state’s great musical traditions, from zydeco to jazz, as cuts from one of the current local stars—John Boutté or Glen David Andrews—play from the speakers. As dusk approaches, take a long walk to the outermost edge of the French Quarter and the Tennessee Williams house (7). Though it’s not open to the public, this troubled playwright’s 19th century mansion is a classic example of New Orleans architecture, and steeped in history. Williams lived here from 1962 until his death in 1983, and a plaque out front quotes his autobiography: “I hope to die in my sleep…in this beautiful big brass bed in my New Orleans.” (’Twas not to be: Williams died in a New York hotel.)

MY BLUE HEAVEN Clockwise from top left, Donna’s Bar & Grill; the original House of

Blues; the Green Goddess Café; and the Alois J. Binder Bakery truck

C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: P H O T O G R A P H S BY L A R RY F I N K /GA L L E RY S T O C K , P R I S M A / M A X X I M AG E S , C O U R T E SY O F J E D D H A A S /GA L L E RY T U N G S T E N, P E T E R F R A N K E DWA R D S / R E D U X

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ILLUSTRATIONS BY ESRA CAROLINE RØISE

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C O U R T E SY O F J E D D H A A S /GA L L E RY T U N G S T E N, P E T E R F R A N K E DWA R D S / R E D U X

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3PD NEW ORLEANS

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2009

91

C L O C K W I S E F R O M L E F T: P H O T O G R A P H S BY P E T E R F R A N K E DWA R D S / R E D U X ( 3) , C O U R T E SY O F L I L E T T E , BY S K I P B O L E N/C O R B I S

SUGAR DADDY The renowned beignet (opposite) from Café Du Monde (above); and Lilette by night

At chow time, you go to the Green Goddess (8), a funky spot with psychedelic copper wallpaper on tiny Exchange Place. Since the May opening, chef Chris DeBarr has created perhaps the most unconventional menu in New Orleans; highlights include “Spooky” blue corn crepes filled with a rare Aztec corn fungus called huitlacoche and fresh Louisiana blue crabmeat served on pillows of crispy angel hair pasta and green tea broth. Afterward, you’re happily obliged to wind down the night at Donna’s Bar and Grill (9), a hole-in-the-wall club at the edge of the Quarter where you’ll find some of the best jazz in the city. If you’re lucky, the boisterous Treme Brass Band will be playing, with “Uncle Lionel” Batiste on the bass drum.

2

DAY TWO The beignet is a French-style doughnut buried in powdered sugar

that tends to get all over everything. You find a prime example at Café Du Monde, and then proceed to leave a trail of white powder as you walk to Canal Street and hop the trolley up St. Charles Avenue. The streetcar rattles along the median as the grandest of New Orleans’ candy-latticed mansions scroll by. You get off at Jackson Avenue and walk to Magazine Street, a pedestrian thoroughfare lined with restaurants and antiques shops. One of the best is Bush Antiques (1), which boasts 12 rooms packed with pieces ranging from staid Louis XV beds to creepy midcentury medical cabinets. Across the street at Aidan Gill for Men, there are hard-to-find grooming products out front (such as Santa Maria Novella cologne from Italy); in the back, you can get a shave and a haircut along with pints of Abita Amber and shots of Jameson whiskey.

Fresh-faced and feeling no pain, head to Lilette (2), a cozy bistro that serves robustly flavored dishes with simple ingredients.

Start with the chicken broth with leeks, DR. BOB ARTIST // tomato, parmigiano and soft poached egg, “First, I stop in Bud’s Broiler followed by an aromatic platter of Alaskan on City Park Avenue and get king crab claws and littleneck clams, a sack of cheeseburgers, then I go and eat them under the sprinkled with oregano and chili flakes. A live oaks at Holt Cemetery. glass of wine from Lilette’s expertly chosen It’s a unique place—real quiet— list wouldn’t be inappropriate. Drawn to and all the graves are done the spectacular Lopez de Heredia rioja, you up with bed frames and stuffed animals.” sip and leave satisfied.

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WHEN THE LEVEE BREAKS // Brad Pitt cleans up the mess? // Soon after Katrina barreled through town, actor Brad Pitt and his retinue followed, though to opposite effect. While filming The Curious Case of Benjamin Button, Pitt was touched by the city’s struggles to rebuild homes, so he commissioned a team of experts in architecture and sustainable redevelopment to design storm-safe and environmentally sound houses in the Lower 9th Ward.

Thus was born Pitt's Make it Right Foundation in 2006.

Groundbreaking started so quickly that some residents are talking him up as a write-in candidate for mayor. So far, just 13 of the planned 150 houses have been built, but these boxy modernist structures are worth checking out—particularly because they’re set against the dramatic backdrop of the devastated neighborhood.

08/10/2009 11:28

NOVEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

92 ALL THAT JAZZ // The smooth sounds of New Orleans // According to lore, the Big Easy got its nickname because it used to be so easy for musicians to get gigs. Over time, little has changed but the haircuts and the venues (the three best: Apple Barrel, d.b.a. and Rock n’ Bowl). Nola has churned out some of the swingingest tunes of all time. Here’s a primer of the must-have albums:

THE WILD MAGNOLIAS // THE WILD MAGNOLIAS // An unfortunately still-obscure funk band that emerged from New Orleans’ Mardi Gras Indian scene, this group nonetheless had a minor hit with its 1974 album, whose centerpiece is “Smoke My Peace Pipe (Smoke It Right),” the sort of blunted funk that hip-hop acts like Cypress Hill and Snoop Dogg have since co-opted.

DR. JOHN // GOIN’ BACK TO NEW ORLEANS // This 1992 disk is one of the legendary pianist’s later works, but also one of the most beloved albums in New Orleans because of its smooth yet mournful soul, which recalls the Neville Brothers. The title track is the perfect theme song for New Orleanians who know what it means to miss home.

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WILD STYLE The tiny Audubon Zoo is home to a slew of snakes.

At the postage stamp–size Audubon Zoo (3), linger for a spell in the Reptile Encounter, which features a fine collection of all that slithers in the bayou. Catch a trolley back down St. Charles Avenue, and stop in at chef Nathaniel Zimet’s Boucherie (4), which has been open less than a year but is already rivaling the city’s best pork purveyors. Try the pulled pork cake with potato confit and purple cabbage cole slaw or, if pig’s not your thing, the smoked black angus beef brisket with garlicky fries.

Follow that with a stop at the swinging Swizzle Stick Bar (5). Part of the Brennan family empire, which includes New Orleans institutions such as Commander’s Palace, it’s on the first floor of the towering Loews Hotel. The bartenders expertly blend Southern standards like the Hemingway Daiquiri (rum, fresh-squeezed lime juice, grapefruit juice, sugar, maraschino liqueur and a secret ingredient), but the bar’s signature drink is the Swizzle, with New Orleans Amber Rum, lime juice, bitters and a splash of soda. It sounds sweet, but it’s as crisp as an autumn apple— perfect for New Orleans’ balmy clime and a last nip before bed.

3

DAY THREE Rise early and head to The Country Club (1) on Louisa

Street in the Bywater for a swim.

Despite its exclusive-sounding name, visitors needn’t be members to get inside, and the $10 day pass is money well spent: This only-in-New Orleans sort of place is at once a classy bar and restaurant and a spa that feels trapped in time. The main building is a lavish Center Hall cottage, behind which one finds a spectacular pool ringed by swaying palm trees. Turn a lap or two, order a mimosa and flip through your 1938 City Guide. A word of warning: Though you won’t feel out of place in your bathing suit, many of the denizens of the bohemian Bywater take full advantage of the longstanding clothingoptional rule.

Return to the present day on Chartres Street, where you get lunch at Elizabeth’s Restaurant (2). This ramshackle eatery, decorated with Bywater artist Dr. Bob’s BE NICE OR LEAVE signs, serves the best midday meal in the

CHRIS RUDGE RESTAURATEUR // “When I want to go out for a good local meal, I really like to go to the Marigny and try either Mimi’s for tapas or Yuki Izakaya for Japanese. Both of them have great atmosphere, excellent food and really cool drink recipes.”

F R O M T O P : P H O T O G R A P H S BY N I N E T T E M AU M U S/A L A M Y, L E N I S I N C L A I R / M I C H A E L O C H S A R C H I V E S /G E T T Y I M AG E S , C H A R L E S PAU L H A R R I S / M I C H A E L O C H S A R C H I V E S /G E T T Y I M AG E S , B RYA N B E D D E R /G E T T Y I M AG E S

PROFESSOR LONGHAIR // NEW ORLEANS PIANO // The wobbly voice and wild piano playing of the late Henry Roeland Byrd—a.k.a.

Professor Longhair—is so well known in New Orleans that locals simply refer to him as “Fess.” The best-known track on this album—“Mardi Gras in New Orleans”—perfectly evokes Fat Tuesday thrills and has an insanely catchy whistled chorus.

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2009

3PD NEW ORLEANS

93

THOSE 3 PERFECT DAYS

DAY TWO (1) Bush Antiques 2109 Magazine St.; Tel: 504581-3518 (2) Lilette 3637 Magazine St.; Tel: 504895-1636 (3) Audubon Zoo 6500 Magazine St.; Tel: 866-487-2966 (4) Boucherie 8115 Jeannette St.; Tel: 504-862-5514 (5) Swizzle Stick Bar 300 Poydras St.; Tel: 504-5953305

DAY THREE (1) The Country Club 634 Louisa St.; Tel: 504945-0742 (2) Elizabeth’s Restaurant 601 Gallier St.; Tel: 504-944-9272 (3) Island of Salvation Botanica 835 Piety St.; Tel: 504-948-9961 (4) Lombard Plantation 3933 Chartres St. (5) Bacchanal Wine 600 Poland Ave.; Tel: 504-9489111 (6) The Joint 801 Poland Ave.; Tel: 504-9493232

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DAY ONE (1) The Soniat House 1133 Chartres St.; Tel: 504-522-0570 (2) Arcadian Books & Art Prints 714 Orleans Ave.; Tel: 504-523-4138 (3) Jackson Square Bounded

by Decatur, St. Peter, St. Ann, and Chartres Sts. (4) Stanley 457 St. Ann St.; Tel: 504-593-0006 (5) Café Du Monde 1039 Decatur St.; Tel: 504-5870835 (6) Louisiana Music Factory 210 Decatur St.; Tel: 504-586-1094 (7) Tennessee Williams house 1014 Dumaine St. (8) Green Goddess 307 Exchange Pl.; Tel: 504-301-3347 (9) Donna’s Bar and Grill 800 N. Rampart St., Tel: 504596-6914

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NOVEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

POKE IN THE RIBS Clockwise from above, Jenny and Pete Breen, owners of The Joint; some of their pork handiwork; the leader of a brass band; and gussied up on Fat Tuesday

city. Have the restaurant’s legendary praline bacon as an appetizer, and then go for a hearty dose of flash-fried oysters dipped in fiery chili sauce. Pow! Your taste buds ablaze, take a long stroll to the outermost edge of the Bywater, near St. Claude Avenue, to voodoo priestess Sallie Ann Glassman’s shop Island of Salvation Botanica (3) on Piety Street. Here, Glassman sells everything from Mexican Day of the Dead figurines to examinations of local religions (Why Do Vodou?). Grab some black magic and walk to the intersection of Chartres and Bartholomew, where you’ll find the spectacular Lombard Plantation (4), a Creole-style plantation house built in 1826. Though such homes are plentiful in Louisiana, the Lombard is among the last remaining plantation houses in the city limits.

Like the Tennessee Williams house, it is privately owned, but it’s an architectural marvel nonetheless.

A few blocks farther on Chartres Avenue, you’ll find a charming wine and cheese shop called Bacchanal Wine (5). The proprietors match up a smooth brie with a glass of rosé, and you enjoy them in the expansive courtyard. It’s the peaceful prelude to your final stop, where you’ll finish off your trip and whatever appetite you have left. The Joint (6), no bigger than a crab shack and always crowded with garrulous locals, serves some of the most powerful barbecue in the South. Try the Cajun-style “Chaurice” sausage, deeply cured in the smokehouse out back. Sitting on a simple wooden bench, your hands covered in smoky sauce, you realize you’ve found the new New Orleans, and it looks a lot like the old one: friendly, unpretentious, engaging and timeless.

In 2007, ETHAN BROWN moved from New York to New Orleans. He lives in the Lower 9th Ward.

KAREN GADBOIS SOCIAL WORKER // “I love Il Posto Café for the mortadella, fontina cheese and roasted red peppers with balsamic on ciabatta; I go to Parasols for french fries and gravy.

I also love the ice cream at Angelo Brocato and Creole Creamery.”

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C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: P H O T O G R A P H S BY C H R I S G R A N G E R ( 2 ) , E R I C K I E L /G E T T Y I M AG E S , R AY L A S KOW I T Z / P H O T O L I B R A RY

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EXPERIENCE NEW ORLEANS

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NOVEMBER 2009

PLAY Julie & Julia is one of many mouthwatering, food-centric ďŹ lms playing this month.

ENTERTAINMENT

102 Films & Television 109 Audio Programming 126 Crossword 128 Sudoku & Quiz INFORMATION

112 United Destinations 116 Terminal Diagrams 121 Alliances & Partnerships 122 Customs & Immigration 124 Beverages & Food

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08/10/2009 14:26

FILM & TELEVISION FILMS ARE SHOWN ONLY on flights of three hours or longer. Movies available on most 747, 757, 767, 777, A319 and A320 aircraft flights.

Schedules and selections are subject to change. International Language Tracks / (S) Películas están disponsibles en Español en todas las rutas domesticas en el canal 10.

WESTBOUND

EASTBOUND FILM

TELEVISION

FILM

TELEVISION

NOVEMBER 1-15

NORTH AMERICA

NOVEMBER 1-15

30 Rock [T]

Up

My Music Brain

Julie & Julia [T]

NOVEMBER 16-30

Frasier

NOVEMBER 16-30

The Time Traveler’s Wife [T]

NOVEMBER 1-15

NOVEMBER 16-30

Harry Potter and the

The Big Bang Theory [T]

Half-Blood Prince [V]

Dhani Tackles the Globe

NOVEMBER 1-15 Two and a Half Men [T] Yellowstone e² NOVEMBER 16-30 Samantha Brown’s Great Weekends Discovery’s Dirty Jobs The Office [T]

Parks and Recreation [T]

HAWAII

FILM

TELEVISION

FILM

TELEVISION

between Denver/Chicago and Hawaii

NOVEMBER 1-15 Two and a Half Men [T] Yellowstone e² NOVEMBER 16-30 Samantha Brown’s Great Weekends Discovery’s Dirty Jobs The Office [T]

FILM

TELEVISION

NOVEMBER 1-15

NOVEMBER 1-15

NOVEMBER 1-15

The Time Traveler’s Wife [T]

30 Rock [T]

Harry Potter and the

NOVEMBER 16-30

My Music Brain

Half-Blood Prince [V]

Up

Frasier

Both films available on flights

NOVEMBER 16-30

between Denver/Chicago and Hawaii

The Big Bang Theory [T] Dhani Tackles the Globe

NOVEMBER 16-30 Julie & Julia [T] Both films available on flights

Parks and Recreation [T]

FILM

TELEVISION NOVEMBER 1-15 30 Rock [T]

NOVEMBER 1-15

JFK — SFO/LAX

NOVEMBER 1-15

My Music Brain

Julie & Julia [T] NOVEMBER 16-30

Up

Frasier

NOVEMBER 16-30

NOVEMBER 16-30

Harry Potter and the

The Time Traveler’s Wife [T]

The Big Bang Theory [T]

Half-Blood Prince [V]

Dhani Tackles the Globe Parks and Recreation [T]

FILM FILM

SOUTHBOUND

NOVEMBER 1-15

MEXICO & CARIBBEAN

Julie & Julia [T] NOVEMBER 16-30 Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince [V]

TELEVISION TELEVISION

NOVEMBER 1-15 Two and a Half Men [T] House [T] Ugly Betty [T] NOVEMBER 16-30 Arrested Development [T] Eureka [T] Chuck [T]

FILM FILM

NOVEMBER 1-15 Two and a Half Men [T] Yellowstone e² NOVEMBER 16-30 Samantha Brown’s Great Weekends Discovery’s Dirty Jobs The Office [T]

NORTHBOUND

TELEVISION TELEVISION NOVEMBER 1-15

NOVEMBER 1-15

The Big Bang Theory [T]

Up

Chuck [T]

NOVEMBER 16-30

Grey’s Anatomy [T]

The Time Traveler’s Wife [T]

NOVEMBER 16-30 Frasier [T] House [T] Ugly Betty [T]

WHATS ON? Like to plan ahead and know what’s playing before your flight? Text “MOVIE” to 75309 and you’ll get a reply with the current movies that are playing. If you really like to plan ahead, text “NEXT MOVIE” for next month’s movies.

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09/10/2009 11:39

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2009

(S) Spanish (G) German (C) Chinese (J) Japanese

HARRY POTTER AND THE HALF-BLOOD PRINCE [V]

2 hr.

21 min.

As Harry Potter begins his sixth year at Hogwarts School of Witchcraft and Wizardry, he discovers an old book marked mysteriously “This book is the property of the Half-Blood Prince” and begins to learn more about Lord Voldemort’s dark past.

FEATURING Daniel Radcliffe, Rupert Grint DIRECTED BY David Yates Warner Bros. Pictures

THE TIME TRAVELER’S WIFE [T]

[V] Violence [S] Sexual Situations [T] Adult Themes

2 hr.

Meryl Streep is Julia Child and Amy Adams is Julie Powell in writer-director Nora Ephron’s adaptation of two best-selling memoirs: Powell’s Julie & Julia and My Life in France by Julia Child with Alex Prud’homme. Based on two true stories, Julie & Julia intertwines the lives of two women who are both at loose ends...until they discover that with the right combination of passion, fearlessness and butter, anything is possible.

FEATURING Meryl Streep, Amy Adams, Stanley Tucci DIRECTED BY Nora Ephron Sony Pictures

1 hr.

41 min.

Clare has been in love with Henry her entire life. She believes they are destined to be together, even though she never knows when they will be separated: Henry is a time traveler cursed with a rare genetic anomaly that causes him to live his life on a shifting timeline, skipping back and forth through his lifespan with no control. Despite the fact that Henry’s travels force them apart with no warning, Clare desperately tries to build a life with her one true love.

FEATURING Rachel McAdams, Eric Bana, Arliss Howard DIRECTED BY Robert Schwentke New Line Cinema

R1. HEM_1109_Film-TV.indd 2

JULIE & JULIA [T]

103

UP 1 hr.

36 min.

In this charming animated Pixar adventure, 78-year-old Carl Fredricksen ties thousands of balloons to his home and sets out to fulfill his lifelong dream of seeing the wilds of South America. Right after lifting off, however, he learns he isn`t alone on his journey: Russell, a young wilderness explorer 70 years his junior, has inadvertently become a stowaway on the trip.

VOICES BY Edward Asner, Christopher Plummer DIRECTED BY Pete Docter, Bob Peterson Pixar

09/10/2009 11:39

FILM & TELEVISION—B747 MAINSCREEN PROGRAMMING INTERNATIONAL LANGUAGE TRACKS (G) Die Aufflistungder Sprachen für ausgewählte Spielfilme finden Sie für die 747-400 Maschinen auf Kanal 2 für alle weiteren Maschinen auf Kanal 10. (J) トラック 言語本の長編映画をチャンネル2と747-400航空機上の他の飛行機内でのチャネル10で選択されています (C) 在747-400型飞机上这些故事片的音频位于第 10频道. 在其他型号的飞机上位于第2频道

Digital media loading occurs between the 25th and 5th of each month. As a result, please understand if your flight features a different line up before and after the start of each month.

If your aircraft is equipped with in-seat video, refer to the separate Play guide located in your seat pocket.

WESTBOUND

EASTBOUND FILM

TELEVISION

FILM

TELEVISION

Up (G) Julie & Julia (G)

GERMANY

The Time Traveler’s Wife [T] (G)

Harry Potter and

Grey‘s Anatomy [T] (G)

Ice Age: Dawn of the Dinosaurs

House [T] (G)

the Half-Blood Prince [V] (G)

The Mentalist [T]

Ice Age 3—Die Dinosaurier sind los(G)

NCIS [T][V] (G)

The Brothers Bloom [V] (G)

The Office [T]

*Night at the Museum:

The Big Bang Theory [T]

*Stone of Destiny

Battle of the Smithsonian

*West Coast only

Nachts im Museum 2 (G) *West Coast only

TELEVISION

FILM

Harry Potter and

The Mentalist [T]

The Time Traveler’s Wife [T] (G)

Chuck [T]

the Half-Blood Prince [V] (G)

Yellowstone

Ice Age: Dawn of the Dinosaurs (G)

HBO Stand Up Comedy:

The Brothers Bloom [V] (G)

30 Rock [T]

Night at the Museum:

Ellen DeGeneres [T]

Battle of the Smithsonian (G)

Click

TELEVISION

FILM

TELEVISION

Up (C)

BBC WORLD

Grey’s Anatomy [T] (J)

The Time Traveler’s Wife [T] (J)(C)

HARDtalk (J)

the Half-Blood Prince [V] (J)(C)

Eureka [T] (J)

Ice Age: Dawn of the Dinosaurs (J)

Click (J)

The Brothers Bloom [V] (C)

Frasier [T] (J)

Night at the Museum: Battle

HARDtalk (J)

*Stone of Destiny (C)

of the Smithsonian (J)

Peschardt’s People (J)

*East Coast/ORD only

博物馆奇妙夜2 (C)

Stone of Destiny

FILM

Julie & Julia (J)(C) Harry Potter and

JAPAN

TELEVISION

FILM

Up (C)

DISCOVERY

Grey’s Anatomy [T] (C)

The Time Traveler’s Wife [T] (J)(C)

Treasure Quest (C)

the Half-Blood Prince [V] (J)(C)

Eureka [T] (C)

Ice Age: Dawn of the Dinosaurs (J)

Detonators (C)

The Brothers Bloom [V] (J)(C)

Frasier [T] (C)

Night at the Museum: Battle

Time Warp (C)

FILM

Julie & Julia (J)(C)

CHINA & HONG KONG

TELEVISION

Up (G)

Julie & Julia (G)

AUSTRALIA

FILM

Harry Potter and

TELEVISION

of the Smithsonian (J)

Stone of Destiny (J)(C)

博物馆奇妙夜2 (C)

SINGAPORE– HONG KONG

Grey’s Anatomy [T] (C) The Proposal (J)(C)

Eureka [T] (C)

BBC WORLD HARDtalk (J) / Click (J)

The Soloist [T] (J)(C)

Frasier [T] (C)

VIETNAM– HONG KONG

HARDtalk (J) / Peschardt’s People (J) Hong Kong to Ho Chi Minh City

Ho Chi Minh City to Hong Kong Grey’s Anatomy [T] (C) Eureka [T} (C) / Frasier [T] (C)

FILM

BBC WORLD HARDtalk (J) / Click (J) / HARDtalk (J) / Peschardt’s People (J)

TELEVISION

FILM

TELEVISION

HARDtalk (J)

The Soloist [T] (J)(C)

Grey’s Anatomy [T] (C)

Click (J)

Night at the Museum: Battle

Eureka [T] (C)

HARDtalk (J)

of the Smithsonian (J)

Frasier [T] (C)

Peschardt’s People (J)

博物馆奇妙夜2 (C)

BBC WORLD

JAPAN– THAILAND

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The Proposal (J)(C) Stone of Destiny (C)

09/10/2009 11:39

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2009

(S) Spanish (G) German (C) Chinese (J) Japanese

ICE AGE: DAWN OF THE DINOSAURS

1 hr.

34 min.

NIGHT AT THE MUSEUM: BATTLE OF THE SMITHSONIAN

1 hr.

45 min.

105

[V] Violence [S] Sexual Situations [T] Adult Themes

THE SOLOIST [T]

1 hr.

57 min.

The subzero heroes from the worldwide blockbusters Ice Age and Ice Age: The Meltdown are back, on an incredible adventure. This time, they’re beneath the ice, discovering a world of dinosaurs: Sid the Sloth gets into trouble, and the gang, on a mission to save him, ventures into a mysterious underground world, where they battle flora and fauna, run amok and meet a weasel named Buck.

VOICES BY Ray Romano, John Leguizamo, Denis Leary DIRECTED BY Carlos Saldanha, Mike Thurmeier 20th Century Fox

Night has fallen upon the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, D.C.—yet something incredible is stirring as former night guard Larry Daley finds himself lured into his biggest, most imaginationboggling adventure yet. Ben Stiller is accompanied by a cast rounded out by many from the original film and several new characters from history.

FEATURING Ben Stiller, Amy Adams, Owen Wilson DIRECTED BY Shawn Levy 20th Century Fox

Investigative journalist Steve Lopez discovers a violin-playing vagrant named Nathaniel Anthony Ayers—a classical music prodigy whose life has spiraled out of control due to schizophrenia. Lopez brings Ayers to a shelter where he can practice his music, and by writing about him in his column, Lopez turns Ayers into a local celebrity.

FEATURING Jamie Foxx, Robert Downey Jr. DIRECTED BY Joe Wright Paramount Pictures

STONE OF DESTINY

THE BROTHERS BLOOM [V]

THE PROPOSAL

1 hr.

31 min.

Stone of Destiny tells the story of Ian Hamilton, a dedicated nationalist who reignited Scottish national pride in the 1950s with his daring raid on the heart of English colonialism to bring the Stone of Scone back home.

FEATURING Billy Boyd, Charlie Cox, Kate Mara DIRECTED BY Charles Martin Smith Arclight Films

IF YOUR AIRCRAFT IS EQUIPPED with in-seat video, refer to the separate Play guide located in your seat pocket.

R1. HEM_1109_Film-TV.indd 4

1 hr.

48 min.

Con artists the Bloom brothers are ready to retire after one last grand scam. Younger brother Bloom insinuates himself into the life of Penelope, a bored heiress, who joins the brothers and a sexy explosives expert named Bang Bang on an ocean liner. Penelope becomes addicted to the illicit thrills, while Bloom begins to wonder if his brother has devised the most dangerous con of his life.

FEATURING Adrien Brody, Rachel Weisz, Mark Ruffalo DIRECTED BY Rian Johnson Summit Entertainment

1 hr.

48 min.

Margaret, a high-powered book editor in New York, faces deportation to her native Canada. The exec declares that she’s engaged to her assistant, Andrew.

He agrees to participate in the charade—with a few conditions. When the couple heads to Alaska to meet his family, the city girl finds herself in one chaotic situation after another. With an immigration official on their tails, Margaret and Andrew vow to stick to the plan—no matter what.

FEATURING Sandra Bullock, Ryan Reynolds DIRECTED BY Anne Fletcher Touchstone Pictures

MOST FILMS HAVE BEEN EDITED FOR AIRLINE USE. However, customer discretion is still advised.

Content guidelines are provided as a courtesy to our customers in choosing whether to view a film.

CUSTOMERS ARE WELCOME TO VIEW their own video entertainment aboard a United aircraft as long as they are able to show the programming has an MPAA rating of “R” or less.

09/10/2009 11:39

FILM & TELEVISION TELEVISION DESCRIPTIONS The views contained in the video content are not necessarily those of United.

DHANI TACKLES THE GLOBE

SAMANTHA BROWN’S GREAT WEEKENDS

“England”

“Los Angeles”

Playing pro football has its perks, not the least of which is hosting a travel show in the off-season. The Cincinnati Bengals linebacker learns how to become a proper English gentlemen and takes his lumps playing rugby.

Forget Mann’s Chinese Theater. Travel expert Samantha Brown will give you the inside dish on what to see in Los Angeles. Don’t hike the hills—take a helicopter ride. And forgo a run-of-the-mill surfing lesson in favor of one taught by a rabbi.

MY MUSIC BRAIN

YELLOWSTONE

Whether they make you cry or brighten your whole day, songs make something happen in your mind. But scientists are asking how. One way to find out: scanning Sting’s brain. Experts explore how his gray matter responds to different types of music. Michael Bublé, Feist and Wyclef Jean weigh in, too.

Yellowstone National Park is known to inspire awe. Top-notch cinematography will give you a taste of what it’s like to be there. Scenery and wildlife stories are set to a majestic soundtrack by the London Symphony Orchestra. And the elk willing to fight for mating rights? Awesome.

“Autumn”

FEEDBACK? Thumbs-up? Thumbs down?

We’re open to suggestions.

Please send to play@united.com.

R1. HEM_1109_Film-TV.indd 5

09/10/2009 11:40

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2009

united.com

united.com

Low fare guarantee.

Always the lowest United fare, or we’ll refund you a $100 e-certificate plus the fare difference.

EasyCheck-in Online.® Save time at the airport, and get up to $5 off 1st and 2nd checked bags.

united.com: the simplest way to book and manage your travel experience.

MANY TRAVELERS USE UNITED.COM TO BOOK THEIR TICKETS. And since they’re guaranteed to always find the lowest United fare there, that makes them pretty smart travelers (in fact, the low fare guarantee recently became even richer: if you find a lower United fare, you’ll now receive a $100 e-certificate plus the difference in price).

But united.com provides you with the tools to do so much more.

Dynamic pricing.

More flexibility and options when you search for fares.

Seats left indicator.

See how many seats are left for what price on a particular flight leg.

When you use EasyCheck-in Online,® you won’t just skip a step when you fly, you’ll save up to $5 on both your first and second checked bags.

The new dynamic pricing search function gives you unparalleled options and flexibility when searching for fares: for instance, it will show you the price for your selected trip, as well as the lowest price within your preferred flight times, and also the lowest fare on the same day but outside of your preferred flight times.

The “seats left” indicator even tells you how many seats are available for what price for a particular flight combination.

Travel Options

by United.

SM

A suite of products and services that lets you customize your travel. experience

United.com gives you access to Travel Options by United,SM a suite of products and services that let you customize your travels. Purchase extra legroom with Economy Plus,® multiply the miles you earn on your flight with Award Accelerator,SM send your bags ahead, get access to priority lines throughout the airport, and more.

For every aspect of your travels, visit united.com.

09-UAL-103_advertorial6.indd 1

08/10/2009 14:39

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2009

travel options by united

Other Travel Options

by United.

SM

Economy Plus.® Purchase up to 5 inches of extra legroom near the front of the Economy cabin.

Premier Line.

SM

Access to the Premier® check-in line, priority security line, and priority boarding.

Premier Baggage Save time and money every time you check bags.

Premier Travel.

SM

Economy Plus® seating, priority line access, priority boarding, and two free checked bags.

Award Accelerator.

SM

Multiply the Mileage Plus® miles you earn when you fly, helping you redeem travel awards more quickly.

Red Carpet Club.® A travel oasis with complimentary snacks, beverages and WiFi.

ARE YOU A PERSON WHO TENDS TO TRAVEL WITH A LOT OF LUGGAGE?

Do you take family ski trips? Go on golf outings with buddies?

Do you like to travel Europe with more than one extra change of clothes and the shoes you have on your feet?

If so, Premier Baggage is something you should consider before your next trip. The newest of the Travel Options by United, this subscription service waives baggage fees on up to two standard pieces of luggage per flight. Purchase Premier Baggage, and you’ll sail through check-in on all your United® and United Express® operated flights, domestic and international,* for the next year.

SM

For a limited time only, a subscription may be purchased for the introductory price of $249. Which means that a person checking two bags will break even after just a few trips.

Better yet, Premier Baggage applies to everyone traveling under your confirmation number, so it might even pay for itself over the course of a single family vacation.

Door-to-Door Baggage.

Send your bags from your home or office directly to your destination via overnight FedEx® Express.

You can purchase a subscription for yourself, or buy one as a gift.

Premier Baggage is available only at united.com/premierbaggage.

To learn more about Premier Baggage, or to learn about all the other ways you can use Travel Options by United to customize your next trip, visit united.com/traveloptions. *Where checked baggage fees are applicable.

09-UAL-057_advertorial8.indd 1

06/10/2009 12:00

AUDIO PROGRAMMING

109

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2009

XM RADIO AND UNITED offer a sampling of XM’s exclusive music channels for your inflight enjoyment. Find your aircraft model on the grid below and review the selections on the channel listing.

Everything worth listening to is now on XM.

CH.

777 2-CABIN

A319 & A320

SELECT A320

747

757 & 767 2-CABIN

1

MOVIE

MOVIE

MOVIE

MOVIE

MOVIE

English

English

English

English

English

Top 20 Hits

Top 20 Hits

Top 20 Hits

Modern Adult Hits

Modern Adult Hits

2

737

Unavailable

MOVIE

3

Dubbed

Top 20 Hits

Top 20 Hits

MOVIE

4

Classical Pops

Classical Pops

Modern Adult Hits

Dubbed

Modern Adult Hits

Classical Pops

’60s Hits

Classical Pops

Modern Adult Hits

Classical Pops

5 ’60s Hits

6

’60s Hits

8 9

’70s Hits

’60s Hits

’70s Hits

Modern Adult Hits

’70s Hits

’60s Hits

Unavailable ’70s Hits

7

’60s Hits

’70s Hits

Unavailable Adult Contemporary Hits

Adult Contemporary Hits

Adult Contemporary Hits

Adult Contemporary Hits

Adult Contemporary Hits

Children’s Programming

Children’s Programming

From the Flight Deck

From the Flight Deck

Unavailable Children’s Programming

Children’s Programming

From the Flight Deck

10

From the Flight Deck

From the Flight Deck

MOVIE

MOVIE

Dubbed

Dubbed

New Age

New Country Hits

From the Flight Deck

Smooth Jazz

Smooth Jazz

New Age

11 New Country Hits

12 13 14

New Country Hits

’80s Hits

Children’s Programming

Adult Album Rock

’70s Hits

Smooth Jazz

Smooth Jazz

New Country Hits

’80s Hits

Adult Album Rock

Smooth Jazz

Children’s Programming

Classical Pops

Top 20 Hits

Smooth Jazz

15 Classic Rock

16

Adult Contemporary Hits

Classic Rock

New Alternative

17 Classic Soul

18 19

Blues

Original XM Programs

HEM_1109_AudioProgramming.indd 2

*Live communication between the flight deck and FAA air-traffic control is offered. As you listen, your flight will be identified by its flight number. This feature is unique to United and may not be available on all flights.

Available at your captain’s discretion.

This month, SIRIUS XM’s Exclusive Music Channel presents The Bangles. One of the ‘80s biggest bands, The Bangles “tune up” and treat you to a live performance of their hits including “Manic Monday” and “Hazy Shade of Winter” on this episode of the original series Artist Confidential.

09/10/2009 15:43

AUDIO PROGRAMMING CHANNELS & ARTISTS

SMOOTH JAZZ Watercolors plays the best contemporary jazz instrumentals, classic and new, blended with just the right vocals.

It’s contemporary crossover that’s always cool.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Dave Koz, Diana Krall, George Benson, Sade, George Duke

BLUES From the Delta, Chicago, New Orleans and more, B.B. King’s Bluesville covers more than 80 years of authentic blues.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR B.B. King, Buddy Guy, Etta James, Muddy Waters

ADULT ALBUM ROCK New music and classic tracks from artists who’ve stood the test of time, plus quality rock from credible new artists.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR U2, Dave Matthews Band, Neil Young, Coldplay

NEW ALTERNATIVE The latest alternative rock, best of the ’90s and the next big thing before it becomes so big you can’t stand it.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Weezer, The Raconteurs, The Bravery, Foo Fighters, Death Cab for Cutie, Jimmy Eat World

SIRIUS XM’s Exclusive Music Channel presents two revealing interviews and performances from original music series “Artist Confidential.” The Bangles treat you to hits “Manic Monday” and “Hazy Shade of Winter.” Singersongwriter Kenny Loggins performs “I’m Alright” and “This Is It.” For more on SIRIUS XM’s “Artist Confidential,” go to sirius.com or xmradio.com.

CLASSIC SOUL Soul Town is a celebration of the Motown, Stax and Atlantic record labels—vintage soul and classic R&B from the 1960s and ’70s.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR James Brown, The Four Tops, Aretha Franklin, The Supremes

NEW COUNTRY HITS The Highway plays the very latest New Country, along with the biggest hits of the past few years.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Kenny Chesney, Taylor Swift, Carrie Underwood, Keith Urban, Rascal Flatts, Sugarland, Tim McGraw

NEW AGE Spa is a place of peace in a sometimes crazy world. It’s a beautiful place where you are soothed by dreamy, flowing music.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Enya, Brian Eno, Tangerine Dream, Kevin Braheny, Mark Isham, Suzanne Ciani

MODERN ADULT HITS It’s the ’90s and now! Hear today’s pop hits from artists like Matchbox 20, Alanis Morissette, Maroon 5, Kelly Clarkson and the Dave Matthews Band. Feel the Pulse of adult pop!

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Daughtry, No Doubt, Colbie Caillat, Plain White T’s

CLASSICAL POPS Listen to classical music’s greatest hits and famous movie music, performed by renowned orchestras and soloists, on SIRIUS XM Pops.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Boston Pops, Cincinnati Pops, Andrea Bocelli, James Galway, Joshua Bell, John Philip Sousa

’70S HITS ’70s on 7 takes you back to the days of bell bottoms and pet rocks, when the music was wider than ever—from singer-songwriters and classic rock to R&B and disco.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Elton John, Donna Summer, The Eagles, Chicago, Fleetwood Mac

’80S HITS “Totally awesome” ’80s on 8 sounds like one of the great Top 40 stations of the time, with rock, rhythm and pop—plus hair bands and the original MTV VJs. WHO YOU’LL HEAR Michael Jackson, Duran Duran, Cyndi Lauper, Prince, George Michael

HEM_1109_AudioProgramming.indd 3

CLASSIC ROCK Hold your lighters in the air. It’s all classic rock of the ’60s and ’70s, when music came on LPs. Drop the needle on Classic Vinyl.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Creedence Clearwater Revival, The Beatles, Pink Floyd, Lynyrd Skynyrd, Bad Company, Rolling Stones

CHILDREN’S PROGRAMMING Kids Place Live features award-winning original content blended with a music mix of the most popular kids’ movie and TV soundtracks, plus Children’s Programming’s recording artists.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR The Wiggles, Tom Chapin, Dan Zanes, They Might Be Giants

09/10/2009 15:43

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2009

111

XM RADIO AND UNITED offer a sampling of XM’s exclusive music channels for your inflight enjoyment. Find your aircraft model on page 109 and review the selections on the channel listing. Everything worth listening to is now on XM.

TOP 20 HITS Top 20 on 20 is the world’s first fully interactive hit music experience, playing just the songs you vote for.

Cast your vote anytime at 20on20.xmradio.com; then plug in and hear what’s hot.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Black Eyed Peas, Fall Out Boy, Lady Gaga, Katy Perry, Kanye West

’60S HITS The times they were a-changin’, and so was the music. ’60s on 6 revisits surfin’ tunes, “girl groups,” the British invasion, Woodstock. Featuring legendary DJ Cousin Brucie.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR The Beatles, Beach Boys, Bob Dylan

R1.HEM_1109_AudioProgramming.indd 4

ADULT CONTEMPORARY HITS The Blend is the musical soundtrack of your life—a great mix of Lite pop hits from the ’70s through today; never any rap or rock.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Rod Stewart, Billy Joel, Madonna, Eric Clapton, John Mellencamp

13/10/2009 10:01

ROUTE MAPS NORTH AMERICAN CITIES Time zone boundary UNITED HUB

• Cities served by United, United Express and Code Share partners Cities served by Star Alliance members

United Route United Express Route Code Share route serviced by a United Partner

Route lines do not reflect actual flight path

BRITISH COLUMBIA

Alaska Time Zone 3:00

Edmonton

Vancouver

Pacific Time Zone 4:00

Victoria

SASKATCHEWAN

Mountain Time Zone 5:00

Seattle

ALASKA

MANITOBA

ALBERTA

Saskatoon

Central Time Zone 6:00

Calgary

Moses Lake

WASHINGTON

Anchorage

Spokane

Regina

Kalispell

Winnipeg Portland

Pasco

Missoula

Eugene

Gulf Of Alaska

Great Falls Helena

North Bend

Redmond

Crescent City

Bozeman

SOUTH Gillette Rapid City D A K O T A

Minneapolis

Pierre Huron

Riverton Casper Chadron Rock Springs W Y O M I N G

NEVADA

Reno/Tahoe

Sioux Falls IOWA

Scottsbluff Salt Lake City Alliance Laramie Vernal Hayden/ NEBRASKA Cheyenne Steamboat UTAH North Platte C O L O R A D O Springs Grand Kearney Junction Vail/Eagle DENVER Moab Aspen McCook

Oakland Modesto San Jose Merced Fresno Visalia Monterey CALIFORNIA

Inyokern Bakersfield

Montrose Las Vegas

Santa Maria Santa Barbara Oxnard

Burbank LOS ANGELES Ontario Orange County

San Diego

Miles City

Dickinson Bismarck Fargo

UNITED STATES

SAN FRANCISCO

Carlsbad

MINNESOTA

NORTH DAKOTA

Sheridan

Worland Jackson Hole

Chico

San Luis Obispo

Billings

Cody/ Yellowstone Idaho Falls

Redding

Sacramento

Williston Wolf Point Sidney

Lewistown M O N T A N A

Boise

Klamath Falls Eureka

IDAHO

OREGON

Medford

PACIFIC OCEAN

Glasgow

Palm Springs Imperial

Page/ Cortez Lake Powell Farmington

Colorado Springs Gunnison/ Crested Butte Pueblo Durango Alamosa

Hays

C Omaha

Des Moines

Lincoln

Salina KANSAS

Burling

Manhattan Kansas City

Garden City

Great Bend Dodge City Wichita Liberal

ARIZONA

Springfield

Prescott Show Low Phoenix/Scottsdale

Tulsa

Albuquerque

Northwest Arkansas

Oklahoma City

Yuma Tucson

A

OKLAHOMA

NEW MEXICO

El Paso

Dallas/ Fort Worth TEXAS

L

Austin San Antonio

Honolulu

Los Cabos Kapalua

Pacific Ocean

0 0

R.1_HEM_1009_RouteMaps.indd 1

50 50

100

100 150

Kahului

Houston

MEXICO

Maui

Kona

Hilo Puerto Vallarta

150 Miles

Mexico City

200 Kilometers

08/10/2009 14:24

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER

113

Newfoundland Time Zone 8:30

A

NEWFOUNDLAND & LABRADOR

Gulf Of St. Lawrence

CANADA

Eastern Time Zone 7:00

P R I N C E E DW ARD ISLAND NEW BRUNSWICK

ONTARIO

Atlantic Time Zone 8:00

NESOTA NOVA SCOTIA

MAINE

Ottawa WISCONSIN

Burlington

Wausau Green Bay

Minneapolis

Toronto

MICHIGAN

VT.

Portland

N.H.

NEW YORK

Traverse City

Halifax

Manchester

Syracuse Ithaca/ Albany Boston Midland/ Rochester Elmira/ Corning Saginaw Corning Hartford/M A S S .

Buffalo/ R.I. Springfield A London Niagara Binghamton Falls Lansing C O N N . Providence Madison Wilkes Barre/ White Detroit Erie South Long Island/Islip Scranton Cedar Plains Bend/Elkhart/ PENNSYLVANIA New York (La Guardia) Rapids/ Newark Cleveland Mishawaka State (J.F. Kennedy) Des Allentown N.J. Iowa City Akron/Canton College oines OHIO Philadelphia Ft. Burlington Moline Peoria Pittsburgh Wayne Columbus Johnstown HarrisburgBaltimore Altoona ILLINOIS INDIANA DEL. Morgantown MARYLAND Dayton Clarksburg WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES) Springfield Indianapolis Parkersburg (Reagan National) Cincinnati WV Shenandoah y Valley St. Louis Charlottesville Charleston Louisville Richmond Beckley Lynchburg Lexington Norfolk/Virginia Beach Waynesville KENTUCKY Roanoke V I R G I N I A pringfield Newport News/Williamsburg Tri-Cities Regional Greensboro/High Point/Winston-Salem MISSOURI Raleigh/Durham NORTH KnoxvilleC A R O L I N A Nashville orthwest Greenville New Bern Charlotte rkansas Asheville Fayetteville/Ft. Bragg TENNESSEE Appleton/ Fox Cities

Grand Milwaukee Rapids

ARKANSAS

Little Rock

Memphis Huntsville/ Decatur

Charleston

Augusta

Birmingham

Hilton Head Island

ALABAMA

GEORGIA

Savannah

MISSISSIPPI LOUISIANA

Pensacola

Hamilton

BERMUDA

Jacksonville Greenville/Spartanburg Wilmington Columbia Myrtle Beach SOUTH Atlanta CAROLINA

Tallahassee

ATLANTIC OCEAN

Jacksonville Gainesville

New Orleans

FLORIDA

Orlando Tampa/St. Petersburg Sarasota/Bradenton

West Palm Beach Freeport Ft. Lauderdale/Hollywood

Ft. Myers

Gulf Of Mexico

Miami

Nassau

BAHAMAS

Key West Providenciales

CUBA

100

0 0

100

St. Maarten St. Thomas Antigua San Juan Punta Cana St. Kitts PUERTO

HAITI

Grand Cayman

Cozumel

200

200 300

300 400

500

400 Miles 600 Kilometers

VIRGIN ISLANDS (U.S.)

Montego Bay

JAM.

Caribbean Sea

DOM. REP.

RICO

Santo Domingo St. Lucia

BELIZE

R.1_HEM_1009_RouteMaps.indd 2

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ROUTE MAPS INTERNATIONAL CITIES

8:00 pm

7:00 pm

Time zone boundary

• Cities served by United, United Express and Code Share partners

United Route Code Share route serviced by a United Partner Code Share route serviced by a United Partner

Route lines do not reflect actual flight path

9:00 pm 10:00 pm

12:00 SUN.

12:00 MON.

11:00 pm

1:00 am

2:00 am

ARCTIC OCEAN

3:00 am

5:00 am

4:00 am

6:00 a

MIDNIGHT ALASKA (U.S.)

RUSSIA

8:00 pm CANAD

2:00 0 pm

Seattle MONGOLIA

Harbin Shenyang

8:00 pm CHINA

Beijing Baotou

Delhi

5:30

San Francisco

Sendai DalianSeoul Fukuoka Komatsu Qingdao Tokyo Shanghai Pusan Nagoya Osaka Nanjing Hiroshima Chengdu Wuhan 6:00 Chongqing Hangzhou Fuzhou BHUTAN Xiamen BANGLADESH Taipei Okinawa Guangzhou TAIWAN BURMA Hanoi Kolkata LAOS Hong Kong 9:00 pm Shenzhen South THAILAND 5:30

Bangkok

VIETNAM

CAMBODIA

Phuket

China Sea

Dallas

D

O

N

E

S

I

Honolulu GUATE

Guatemala Ci San Salva

EL SALVA

Managu

PACIFIC OCEAN

A PAPUA NEW GUINEA

INDIAN OCEAN

Coral Sea

Apia

WESTERN SAMOA

Cairns

FIJI

Nadi

RAROTONGA

Rarotonga Cook

FRENCH POLYNESIA

NEW CALEDONIA

AUSTRALIA

1:00

Brisbane 9:30 pm

Perth

Gold Coast Sydney

Adelaide

Canberra

Tasman Sea

Melbourne

Auckland NEW ZEALAND

Queenstown

Wellington Christchurch Dunedin

World time zones shown in Standard Time.

:00 pm

6:00 pm

7:00 pm

8:00 pm

9:00 pm

10:00 pm

11:00 pm

12:00 MIDNIGHT

1:00 am

2:00 am

3:00 am

4:00 am

5:00 am

International Date Line

MON. SUN.

ANTARCTICA

R.1_HEM_1009_RouteMaps.indd 3

Ho Gul Mex

BRUNEI

Kuala Lumpur Singapore N

W

Denver

MEXICO

Saipan

PHILIPPINES

Chi

Los Angeles

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) MALAYSIA Kota Kinabalu

I

Phi U.S.A.

Sapporo JAPAN

NORTH KOREA SOUTH KOREA

International Date Line

N

Portland

08/10/2009 14:24

115

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2009

12:00 pm

6:00 am

7:00 am

8:00 am

9:00 am

11:00 am

10:00 am

1:00 pm

12:00 pm

3:00 pm

2:00 pm

ARCTIC OCEAN GREENLAND

SWEDEN

ICELAND

FINLAND

2:00 pm

Hudson Bay

NORWAY

10:00 am 9:30

Dublin Shannon

CANADA

A.

Chicago

Geneva

Detroit

Porto Lisbon

ICO

EL SALVADOR

CUBA PUERTO HAITI RICO JAM. DOM. REP.

SURINAME VENEZUELA GUYANA COLOMBIA FRENCH GUIANA

ATLANTIC OCEAN

ECUADOR

Manaus

Fortaleza

BRAZIL

PERU

EQUATORIAL GUINEA SAO TOME & PRINCIPE

Cuzco

Brasilia

BOLIVIA

ARGENTINA

10:00 am

Belo Horizonte Rio de Janeiro

PARAGUA

Y Iguassu Falls

TURKEY

CYPRUS LEBANON ISRAEL

CONGO

CONGO

ARMENIA AZER.

ANGOLA

11:00 am

12:00 NOON

1:00 pm

BA

SRI LANKA

MALDIVES SEYCHELLES

TANZANIA

MALAWI

INDIAN OCEAN

3:00 pm

4:00 pm

5:00 pm

6

MOZAMBIQUE ZIMBABWE MADAGASCAR

Johannesburg

Curitiba Porto Alegre

SOUTH AFRICA

SWAZILAND

Durban

LESOTHO

East London Port Elizabeth

NORWAY

Bergen

SCOTLAND

LATVIA

Copenhagen

10:00 am

Bremen NETH.

London

LUX.

FRANCE

Porto SPAIN

Hamburg Berlin

POLAND

Vilnius BELARUS

Hannover GERMANY

BELGIUM

Brussels Cologne Paris

LITHUANIA RUSSIA

Amsterdam

ENGLAND

SOUTHERN OCEAN

Riga

DENMARK

Edinburgh

Birmingham

RUSSIA

ESTONIA

Aberdeen

Dublin WALES

PORTUGAL

Helsinki

Stockholm

Glasgow

Shannon Cork

FINLAND

Oslo SWEDEN

Stavanger

NORTHERN IRELAND UNITED Belfast KINGDOM IRELAND Manchester

9:00 am

5:00

KENYA

Atlantic Ocean

8:00 am

4:30

3:30

JORDAN

BOTSWANA

Buenos Aires

7:00 am

Islamabad AFGHAN. Peshawar

IRAN

COMOROS ZAMBIA

NAMIBIA

Cape Town

6:00 am

KYRGYZSTAN TAJIKISTAN

BURUNDI

URUGUAY

00 am

5:00

SYRIA

Tel AvivIRAQ Amman

Alma-Ata

UZBEKISTAN

TURKMENISTAN

RWANDA

2:00 pm

Salvador CHILE

GABON

Recife

Lima

Tbilisi

GEORGIA

Lahore Kuwait PAKISTAN Delhi NEPAL LIBYA Bahrain QATARDubai EGYPT Karachi WESTERN SAHARA Riyadh Doha 2:00 pm INDIA U. A. E. Jeddah 5:30 Abu Dhabi Muscat OMAN SAUDI ARABIA MAURITANIA Mumbai Sal MALI NIGER 4:00 pm Hyderabad CAPE VERDE ERITREA CHAD YEMEN ISLANDS 1:00 pm Arabian Sea Bangalore SUDAN Asmara Dakar SENEGAL GAMBIA BURKINA FASO DJIBOUTI GUINEA Cochin GUINEA BENIN NIGERIA BISSAU Trivandrum TOGO Abuja Addis Ababa SIERRA GHANA CENTRAL AFRICAN ETHIOPIA Chennai (Madras) Lagos LEONE REPUBLIC LIBERIA Accra Colombo SOMALIA Malabo CAMEROON UGANDA DEM. REP.

THE BAHAMAS

PANAMA

Black Sea

Cairo

ALGERIA

Belize City San Pedro Sula Tegucigalpa NIC. Aruba COSTA RICA

Managua Liberia

ranean Se a

CANARY ISLANDS

Mexico

GUATEMALA

Med iter

TUNISIA

MOROCCO

6:00 pm KAZAKHSTAN

Istanbul

Madrid

12:00

4:00

MOLDOVA

ROMANIA BOS.HER. SERB .

MONT. KOS. BULGARIA MAC. GREECE ALB.

Rome

PORTUGAL

Charlotte Atlanta Houston Orlando Gulf of Miami

Guatemala City San Salvador

SPAIN

5:00 pm

Moscow

UKRAINE

SWITZ.

FRANCE

Washington, DC Dallas

London Frankfurt Munich Paris Vienna AUSTRIA

Boston

4:00

LAT.

Copenhagen Brussels LITH. BELARUS AmsterdamPOLAND GERMANY Warsaw

Sea an spi Ca

New York Philadelphia 9:00 am 10:00 Newark

RUSSIA

Stockholm

UNITED KINGDOM

Leipzig Dresden Prague Frankfurt CZECH

Warsaw

Kiev

Katowice

UKRAINE Nuremberg REPUBLIC SLOVAKIA Stuttgart Munich Salzburg Basel Linz Vienna MOLDOVA AUSTRIA Budapest Graz HUNGARY Innsbruck SWITZ. Klagenfurt Lyon Geneva VeronaSLOVENIA VeniceCROATIA Bucharest TriesteBOS. ROMANIA Turin Milan Bologna HERZ. Belgrade Genoa Florence Sarajevo SERBIA BULGARIA Marseille Nice Pisa Ancona MONT. KOS. Sofia Skopje Rome ALBANIA MAC. Naples ITALY Istanbul GREECE

Lisbon

Ankara Izmir

MALTA

Luga

Mediterranean Sea

TURKEY

Antalya Adan

ANTARCTICA

R.1_HEM_1009_RouteMaps.indd 4

08/10/2009 14:24

TERMINAL DIAGRAMS DOMESTIC Whether your next flight is on United or one of the Star Alliance partners around the world, use the terminal diagrams on pages 116–120 to plan your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters, United Red Carpet Clubs and interterminal transportation.

MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT.

CONTACT INFORMATION

Reservations united.com 800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

Automated Flight Information

Meetings Plus

Customer Relations united.com/customerrelations Email: customerrelations@ united.com

800-MEET-UAL (800-633-8825)

Duty Free World 6095 NW 167th St. Suite D-4 Miami, FL 33015 USA

800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

Mileage Plus 24-Hour Account Information & Award Travel united.com/mileageplus 800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

Red Carpet Club™ united.com/redcarpetclub 866-UA-CLUBS (toll-free) 520-881-0500 (outside the U.S.)

United Vacations unitedvacations.com 800-32-TOURS (800-328-6877)

Hearing Impaired (TDD) Charter an Airplane united.com/charter

800-323-0170

Mileage Plus Visa Customer Service united.com/chase 800-537-7783

united.com/baggage 800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

Refunds united.com/refunds 800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

Small Package Same Day Shipping Small Package Dispatch (SPD)— Airport-to-airport service:

800-426-5560

800-426-5561

800-722-5243

United Cargo unitedcargo.com

Employment Opportunities united.com/jobs

800-UA-CARGO (800-822-2746)

888-UAL-JOBS (888-825-5627)

United Services unitedsvcs.com

CHICAGO / O’HARE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

United Gate Area United Premier Check-in United Check-in United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite International Arrivals Suite (except from Canada) United Red Carpet Club Lufthansa Check-in SAS Check-in Air Canada Gate Area Air Canada Check-in ANA Check-in bmi Check-in US Airways Gate Area US Airways Check-in Asiana Check-in Underground Corridors, Moving Sidewalks Elevated Airport Transit Systems (ATS) ★ United Easy Check-in Medical Center ★ Airport Play Area—Kids on the Fly

CONCOURSE F

CONCOURSE E F14

F11 H F12 F10 F9 F8 F7 F6 F5

CONCOURSE G

E10

F4 F3 H

E2 E1A

TERMINAL F2 F1 TWO

CONCOURSE H

E3

E2A CONCOURSE B

E1

B2

H

Roadway

CONCOURSE C C2 C4 C1 C6 C3 C8 C5 C10 C7 C12 C9 C16 C11 C15 C18 C17 H C18A

B4 B5 B6 B7 H B8

C19

BUS/SHUTTLE CENTER

TH AL TER MIN

Parking Garage LOT A

CONCOURSE L

C20 C22 C24 C26 C23 C28 C25 C30 C27 C32 C29 C31

C21

HOTEL

CONCOURSE K

TERMINAL ONE B9 B10 B11 B12 B14 H B15 B16 B17 B18 B19 B20 B21 B22

International Terminal Five CONCO URSE M Roadw ay

HOTEL

➡

R1.HEM_1109_TerminalDiagrams.indd 1

B3

B1

RE E

ORD

1. Rebook on another flight 2. Obtain a boarding pass 3. Standby for the next flight to their destination

Language Assistance (Asian)

Reservaciones en Español Baggage Services

EasyCheck-in kiosks are located on the concourse to assist customers who have experienced a misconnection or canceled flight. Customers who have e-tickets and are traveling domestically may use the kiosk to:

800-668-6182

To Remote Parking

Hotel Courtesy Shuttle, Pace Bus, Regional Buses, Off-Site Rent-a-Car, Off-Site Parking Shuttle. Follow the overhead signs in Baggage Claim.

09/10/2009 11:42

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2009

117

TRAVEL ASSISTANCE FOR DELAYED OR CANCELED FLIGHTS

will provide you with a hotel and meal voucher. For uncontrollable events—such as weather—we may be able to help you locate a local hotel at a discounted rate; however United does not cover hotel or meal expenses in this event. If we can not retrieve your checked bag, overnight kits containing toiletries are available. Please see an agent.

What if the reason for my travel no longer exists? If as a result of the delay or cancelation you decide not to travel, call United reservations (1-800 UNITED-1) to get information on your options.

Help us help you keep informed. Sign up for EasyUpdate®, our messaging service. If your flight is canceled or delayed, EasyUpdate® will inform you. Enroll at united.com/easyupdate. At home? Go to united. com for information or to check-in and print your boarding pass.

At United Airlines, our priority is safety and keeping an on-time schedule. On occasion, canceling or delaying a flight is the only option to assure we maintain the highest safety standards.

Flight canceled? We automatically confirm you on the next United flight with available seats. EasyCheck-in® units located in the concourse will assist you with information and a boarding pass—it will also help you standby for an earlier United flight if one is scheduled. If you want to travel standby and aren’t boarded, we will transfer your name to the next United flight to your destination until you are onboard.

What about my bag? Baggage is boarded on the next flight if space is available. This means your bags may arrive before you. United will secure the bag until you claim it. See a baggage claim representative.

What if I have to stay overnight? If a flight is canceled to address a mechanical issue or another similar reason within our control, we IAD

Your safety and satisfaction are important. We appreciate your business and apologize for any inconvenience you may have experienced.

WASHINGTON / DULLES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

International Arrivals United Gate Area Facility for Connecting Passengers United Premier Check-in (Lower Level) United Check-in CONCOURSE C International Arrivals Suite (except from Canada) C2 C4 C6 C8 C12 C14 United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge C1 C3 C5 C7 C9 C11 Lufthansa Gate Area A4 A2 A6 Lufthansa Check-in H Air Canada Gate Area Air Canada Check-in A5 A1 A3 ANA Check-in CONCOURSE A ANA Fuji Lounge/Gate Area Austrian Airlines Check-in Austrian Airlines Gate Area South African Airways SAS Gate Area US Airways Gates Terminal BWIA Gate ★ United Easy Check-in Upper Level Shuttle Train US Airways Check-in

LAX

C Connector Tunnel

C16

C28 C18 C20 C22 C24 C26

C17 C19 C23

R1.HEM_1109_TerminalDiagrams.indd 2

C27

D1

CONCOURSE D D8 D10 D14 D16

★

D3

A14/16

D18 D20 D30

D5 D7

D15 D23

D11

A32 CONCOURSE B

CONCOURSE A

B37 B39 B41 B45 B47

Pedestrian Walkway

B79

Z GATES International Arrivals Building

TERMINAL

Transportation to International Arrivals Building for Washington Passengers Only

Parking

EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

LOS ANGELES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

United Gate Area United Premier Check-in United Check-in United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge Lufthansa Check-in Thai Airways Check-in Air Canada Check-in Air New Zealand Check-in ANA Check-in Inter-Terminal Shuttle Bus Stop (Arrival Level) Singapore Check-in US Airways Club US Airways Check-in US Airways Gates Asiana Check-in ★ United Easy Check-in

D6

D4

D2

H

TERMINAL 1 12 TERMINAL 3

8

TERMINAL 2

US Airways Ticket Counter (Upper Level)

US Airways Club 4B

TOM BRADLEY INTERNATIONAL TERMINAL

Roadway

Mezzanine Level

71A 71B

★

70A 70B

73

66

72 75A 75B

69B TERMINAL 4

TERMINAL 5

68B

TERMINAL 6

77

74 76

TERMINAL 7

80 81 ★ 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 TERMINAL 8

13/10/2009 10:03

TERMINAL DIAGRAMS DOMESTIC & OVERSEAS Whether your next flight is on United or one of the Star Alliance partners around the world, use the terminal diagrams on pages 116–120 to plan your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters, United Red Carpet Clubs and interterminal transportation.

MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT.

DEN

DENVER INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

United Gate Area United Premier Check-in United Check-in International Arrival Processing Air Canada Gate Area Air Canada Check-in US Airways Gate Area US Airways Check-in Lufthansa Check-in Lufthansa Gate Area Underground Train Medical Center (level six) ★ United EasyCheck-in

EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

29 28 30 CONCOURSE C 57 59 15

17 19 21 23 25

16

18 20 22 24

27 29 31 33

35

39

36

38 40 42 44

★

★ 26

28 30 32

34

51

53 55 57

50

52

54 56 58 60

63 67 69 71 73 75 77 79

61

★ 46 48

81 83 85 87 89 91 93 95 94 80 82 84 86 88 90 92

33 35 CONCOURSE A

Terminal East

EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

78B TERMINAL 3 CONCOURSE F 88

86

84 82

79

80

78A 77B 77A 76B 76A

90

International Terminal Secure Connector

61

71

89 87A 87 85 83 81 72 73 74 75

68 70 69

7

CONCOURSE G (Gates G91-G1 02)

CONCOURSE B B26

TERMINAL 1

B27 B28 B30 B29

CONCOURSE A (Gates 1-12)

HONOLULU INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

R1.HEM_1109_TerminalDiagrams.indd 3

49

CONCOURSE B

SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

United Gate Area United Check-in United Red Carpet Club (Third Level) Air New Zealand (Courtyard, Lower Level) ANA (Courtyard, Lower Level) Air Canada Gate Area US Airways Check-in Pedestrian Corridor Inter-Terminal Shuttle Bus Stop Medical Center (Courtyard, Lower Level)

45 47

41 43

United Arrivals and Departures (Domestic) United Premier Check-in United Domestic Check-in United International Check-in & Departure Gates United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite (lower level) Singapore Check-in Lufthansa Check-in Air China Check-in US Airways Gate Area US Airways Check-in Asiana Airlines Air New Zealand Medical Center Air Canada Gate Area ★ United EasyCheck-in Air Canada Check-in ℞ Harmony Pharmacy & Health Center is in the Terminal 3, Concourse F hub

HNL

41

★

Terminal West

SFO

43

37

EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

DIAMOND HEAD CONCOURSE GATES 6-11 8 7 6 9

★

DIAMOND HEAD

CENTRAL CONCOURSE GATES 14-23 EWA CONCOURSE GATES 26-34

10 11 GATES 12-13

GATES 24-25 GATES 49-54 Roadway

Parking Garage

INTERISLAND TERMINAL GATES 55-66

09/10/2009 11:43

119

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2009

LONDON / HEATHROW INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

United Gate Area United Check-in United Premier Check-in Arrivals Lounge Lufthansa Check-in SAS Check-in bmi Check-in Star Alliance Departure Lounge Flight Connections

86 84

90 88

82

80

38 36 34 32 40 24 30 42 28 35 26 31

BUS TRANSFER To/From Terminals 3, 4 & 5

78

76

74 1

22 21

9

7

5

3

TERMINAL 1 8 29

6 11

29

TERMINAL 5

LHR

23 27 20

19

17

25

27

21

19

25 16

23

18 43

50

11 13

TERMINAL 3

3

9

36

5 7

2

48

8 10 15

12

TERMINAL 2 (Closing Early 2009)

14

TERMINAL 4

FRANKFURT INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

TERMINAL 1

B332-B340 A5 1A6 5)

Escalator

B300-B303

A1 -A 42 )

3

B1, B2

C5

B11-B16

C8 B3-B9

Pedestrian Transfer Tunnel

A, LE VE L

2

(G at es

A, LE VE L

B10

C

B20

C6

B41 PIER B

PI ER

PI ER

C4

ER

(G at es

C1-C3

PI

United Gate Area United Check-in United Arrivals Suite United First International Lounge Lufthansa Check-in Lufthansa Senator Club Lufthansa Business Class Lounge Air Canada Check-in Train Station US Airways Gates US Airways Check-in Medical Center

C7-C9

B43

B22 B30-B35

B44

B24

Train to Terminal 2

B42

B23

B45

B25 B48

B28

B46

B26

B47

B27

NRT

46

6 13

7 5 3 1

40 42

38

52

9

4 11

BUS TRANSFER To/From Terminals 1, 2, 3 & 5

FRA

54

39

17 16

56

41

37

18

TOKYO / NARITA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 43

42

41

37

35

33

31

Gates 21-25 SATELLITE 2

44 45 46

47 SATELLITE 4

38

Gates 31-47

32

SATELLITE 3 l ne un rT sfe an Tr ian str de Pe

United Gate Area United and Star Alliance Premier Check-in United and Star Alliance Check-in Air New Zealand (Terminal 2) United Red Carpet Club (Third Floor) United First International Lounge (Fourth Floor) Medical Center ANA Lounge

North Wing

South Wing

Gates 11-

TERMINAL 1 52 51

Gates 51-58

SATELLITE 1 55 56

SATELLITE

57 58

R1.HEM_1109_TerminalDiagrams.indd 4

09/10/2009 11:43

TERMINAL DIAGRAMS US AIRWAYS HUBS Whether your next flight is on United or one of the Star Alliance partners around the world, use the terminal diagrams on pages 116–120 to plan your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters, United Red Carpet Clubs and interterminal transportation.

MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT.

CLT

CHARLOTTE DOUGLAS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

United Gate Area United Check-in US Airways Gate Area US Airways Express Gate Area US Airways Check-in US Airways Club US Airways Club and Business Center Special Services Counter ★ United EasyCheck-in

LAS

EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

CONCOURSE C

CONCOURSE B Gates 1-16

Gates 2-19

CONCOURSE A 2 4

CONCOURSE D CONCOURSE E

★

Food Court

Gates 1-9

Gates 10-19

Gates 1-13

Gates 20-26

LAS VEGAS / MCCARRAN INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

United Gate Area United Check-in US Airways Gate Area US Airways Check-in US Airways Club Special Services Counter

Gates B19-B25

Gates D31-D43

Gates B9-B17

CONCOURSE B

Gates D1-D14

CONCOURSE D

B6 B2 CONCOURSE A B1 A3 A5 A8

Gates D50-D58

Gates A10-A15

A7

Gates D17-D26 Gates A17-A23

PHL

PHILADELPHIA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

Gates 24-39

United Gate Area United Check-in United Red Carpet Club US Airways Gate Area US Airways Express Gate Area US Airways Check-in US Airways International Check-in US Airways Club Special Services Counters US Airways Express Check-in US Airways Club and Envoy Lounge ★ United EasyCheck-in

PHX

CONCOURSE F Continuous Shuttle Bus Pickup and Drop-off Between Gates F10 and C16

CONCOURSE E

Gates 18-26

CONCOURSE A WEST

1

1

17 16 15 14

Gates 1-16

Transatlantic Gates (All Carriers)

CONCOURSE A EAST

PHOENIX SKY HARBOR INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

United Gate Area United Check-in United Red Carpet Club US Airways Gate Area US Airways Club and Business Center Special Services Counters ★ United EasyCheck-in

Gates 1-23

3

Gates 16-31

CONCOURSE B

5 CONCOURSE D 7 9 11 13

★

CONCOURSE C

EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

TERMINAL 2 TERMINAL 4

CONCOURSE A

Gates

★ 7

1 3 5

Gates A17-A30

CONCOURSE B

Gates A1-A14

INTERNATIONAL CONCOURSE B

Gates B1-B14

Gates B15-B28

To transfer between terminals, catch the interterminal bus curbside.

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2009

121

ENJOY A WORLD OF STAR ALLIANCE CONNECTIONS AND PRIVILEGES. On October 27, Continental Airlines became the newest Mileage Plus airline partner and member of Star Alliance.

Continental offers more than 2700 flights to 268 destinations worldwide, and Mileage Plus members can earn and redeem miles on all of their flights.

ALLIANCES AND PARTNERSHIPS STAR ALLIANCE PARTNERS

STAR ALLIANCE Established in 1997 as the first

truly global airline alliance to offer customers a worldwide travel network that aims to provide customers a seamless travel experience across multiple airlines. Today the Star Alliance network offers more than 18,900 daily flights to 983 destinations in 169 countries.

EARN MILEAGE PLUS® MILES AND ELITE STATUS FASTER

With the largest airline alliance, you can earn miles almost anywhere in the world you fly. The miles you earn on any Star Alliance flight can be credited to your Mileage Plus account. Plus the flight miles will count toward elite status in Mileage Plus.

EARN RECOGNITION AROUND THE WORLD The more miles you fly with United and the Star Alliance airlines, the higher your Mileage Plus elite status can be: Premier®, Premier Executive® or 1K®.

Mileage Plus elite status is recognized across the alliance as either Star Alliance Silver or Star Alliance Gold, with travel benefits worldwide. See united.com/staralliance for the Star Silver and Star Gold benefits you can receive.

AWARD TRAVEL IS NOW EASIER With Star Alliance

Awards, you can use your Mileage Plus miles for award travel on any Star Alliance carrier worldwide. Or use them for Star Alliance Upgrade Awards and upgrade to a premium cabin and travel in comfort (available on most Star Alliance airlines).

REGIONAL ALLIANCE PARTNERS

You can earn and redeem miles on many of our Regional Alliance Partners. See united.com/airlinepartners for specific information about each of our Regional Alliance Partners.

Aer Lingus Air Dolomiti Continental Connection Emirates Great Lakes Hawaiian Airlines

R1.HEM_1109_TerminalDiagrams.indd 6

Island Air Jet Airways Qatar Airways TACA Group TAM Virgin Blue

09/10/2009 11:44

CUSTOMS & IMMIGRATION ENTRY REGULATIONS

CUSTOMS DECLARATION

ENGLISH All passengers (or one per family) are required to complete the Customs Declaration forms prior to arrival in the U.S. The forms will be distributed inflight and should include all personal data in English and in capital letters. Please ensure you sign your name.

SPANISH/ESPAÑOL Todos los pasajeros (o uno por cada familia) tienen que llenar los formularios de Declaración de Aduanas antes de llegar a los EE.UU. Los formularios se distribuirán durante el veulo y deben incluir todos sus datos personales en inglés y con letras mayúsculas. No olvide firmar en el reverso del formulario.

1. Apellido, Nombre, Segundo nombre 2. Fecha de nacimiento

(Día/Mes/Año) 3. Cuántos familiares viajan con usted 4. (a) Dirección en los EE.UU. (nombre del hotel/lugar) (b) Ciudad, (c) Estado 5. Pasaporte expedido en (páis) 6. Número del pasaporte 7. País de residencia 8. Países que visitó durante este viaje antes de su llegada a los EE.UU. 9. Línea aérea/número de vuelo o nombre del barco 10. El propósito principal de este viaje es de Sí / No negocios: 11. Traigo (Traemos) (a) frutas, plantas, alimentos, insectos: Sí / No (b) carnes, animales, productos de animales o silvestres: Sí / No (c) agentes de enfermedades, cultivos celulares, caracoles:Sí / No (d) tierra o he (hemos) estado en finca/ granja/pastizales: Sí / No 12. He (Hemos) estado en cercanías de ganado (tocando o manipulándolo): Sí / No 13. Llevo (Llevamos) divisas o instrumentos monetarios por valor superior a $10,000 o su equivalente en moneda extranjera (Véase la definición de instrumentos monetarios al dorso): Sí / No 14. Tengo (Tenemos) mercancías comerciales (artículos para la venta, muestras para solicitar pedidos o bienes que no constituyen efectos personales): Sí / No 15. Residentes—el valor total de todos los bienes, incluidas las mercancías comerciales que he (hemos) comprado en el extranjero, (incluyendo regalos para otras personas, pero sin incluir los artículos enviados por correo a los EE.UU.) y que estoy (estamos) introduciendo en los EE.UU. es de: $___ Visitantes—el valor total de todos

HAZARDOUS MATERIALS NOTICE & IMPORT RESTRICTIONS HAZARDOUS MATERIALS The following items are considered hazardous materials. Do not pack in checked or carry-on luggage.

FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS OR SOLIDS Fuel, paints, solvents, lighter fluid, matches WEAPONS Loaded firearms, ammunition, gunpowder, Mace, tear gas, pepper spray HOUSEHOLD ITEMS Drain cleaners and solvents COMPRESSED GASES Spray can, butane fuel, oxygen bottles FIREWORKS Firecrackers, sparklers or explosives OTHER HAZARDOUS MATERIALS Dry ice, gasoline-powered tools, camping equipment with fuel, wet cell batteries, oxidizers, corrosives, radioactive materials,

R1.HEM_1009_Customs&Immigration_.indd 1

poisons, infectious substances NOTE There are special exceptions for small quantities of up to 70 oz. (2 kg or 2 liters) of medicinal and toilet articles carried in your luggage. For further information, check with any airline representative.

IMPORT RESTRICTIONS Please note new controls on the import of meat, fish, plants and their products into the United Kingdom and European Union. Check the advisory notices displayed in the baggage hall for a detailed explanation of these restrictions. If you possess any of these items, please declare them to customs in the red channel to avoid legal consequences.

I-94 ARRIVAL / DEPARTURE RECORD

ENGLISH Prior to arrival in the U.S., all foreign nationals (except Canadian citizens and U.S. permanent residents or nationals of countries entitled to the Visa Waiver Program—see I-94W on next page) are required to complete an I-94 form. One form is required for each family member.

Customers should complete all personal and travel-related information included on the front side of the form. Please do not write on

the back side of the form. All information should be written in capital letters and in English. You are required to keep this form until your departure from the U.S. SPANISH / ESPAÑOL Antes de su llegada a los Estados Unidos, todos los ciudadanos extranjeros (excepto los ciudadanos de Canadá y los residentes permanentes en los Estados Unidos o ciudadanos de los países que tienen el Programa “Visa Waiver”—Ver formulario I-94W en hoja adjunta) tienen que llenar un formulario I-94. Hay que rellenar un formulario por cada miembro de la familia.

Los pasajeros llenarán toda la información personal y relativa al viaje que se incluye en el anverso del formulario. Le rogamos que no escriba en el reverso del formulario. Toda la información debe estar escrita con letras mayúsculas y en inglés. Le rogamos que guarde este formulario hasta que salga de los Estados Unidos.

1. Apellido 2. Nombre 3. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) 4. País de ciudadanía 5. Sexo (masculino o femenino) 6. Número de pasaporte 7. Aerolínea y número de vuelo 8. País donde reside 9. Ciudad donde tomó el avión 10. Ciudad donde obtuvo el visado 11. Fecha del visado (Diá/Mes/Año) 12. Dirección durante su estancia en los EE.UU. (Número, Calle) 13. Ciudad y Estado 14. Apellido 15. Nombre 16. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) 17. País de ciudadania

ELECTRONIC SYSTEM FOR TRAVEL AUTHORIZATION ENGLISH

SPANISH / ESPAÑOL

Effective January 12, 2009, all passengers who intend to travel to the United States without a U.S. Visa under the terms of the Visa Waiver Program must obtain an electronic preauthorization or ESTA in advance of travel. When planning international travel, please be sure that you are in possession of all required documents. Remember to allow ample time for acquiring official travel documents. For complete information on the requirements, and to apply for ESTA, please visit www. cbp.gov/esta.

A partir del 12 de enero de 2009, todos los pasajeros que quieran viajar a los EE.UU. (entre los terminos del programa de no tener que usar la Visa) tendran que obtener una preautorización electronica o ESTA antes de viajar. Cuando estés coordinando viajes internacionales, este seguro que tenga todos los documentos requerídos. No se olvide de dejar tiempo suficiente para adquirir los documentos oficiales de viaje.

Para información completa sobre todos los requisitos, y para aplicar para ESTA, por favor visite www.cbp.gov/esta.

08/10/2009 14:29

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2009

I-94 NONIMMIGRANT VISA WAIVER / BACK

I-94 NONIMMIGRANT VISA WAIVER / FRONT

ENGLISH Prior to arrival in the United States, foreign nationals (except Canadian citizens and U.S. permanent residents) who are not in possession of a visitors visa and are entitled to the Visa Waiver Program are required to complete the I-94W form. One form is required for each family member.

Customers should complete all personal and travel-related information included on the front side of the card. Please ensure that you answer all questions and sign and date where indicated on the back side of this form. All customers must provide a U.S. address for entry.

Countries that are participants of the Visa Waiver Program are as follows: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, *Czech Republic, Denmark, *Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, *Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, *Latvia, Liechtenstein, *Lithuania,

123

Luxembourg, *Malta, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, *Slovakia, Slovenia, *South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, the United Kingdom. *Nationals of these countries must present an electronic (e-ppt) passport to be eligible for the U.S. Visa Waiver Program.

Nationals of all Visa Waiver countries must present a machine-readable passport for the U.S. Visa Waiver Program.

SPANISH / ESPAÑOL Antes de su llegada en los Estados Unidos, los ciudadanos extranjeros (excepto ciudadanos Canadienses y residentes permanentes de los Estados Unidos) que no tengan un visado de visita y se acojan al programa “Visa Waiver”, tienen que completar el formulario I-94W. Se requiere un formulario por cado miembro de familia. Los pasajeros deberán rellenar toda información tanto personal como relacionada con viajes en el anverso de la tarjeta. Por favor, asegúrese de contestar todas las preguntas , firmen y pongan la fecha en el lugar indicado en el formulario.

Todos los pasajeros deben proporcionar una dirección en Estados Unidos para entrar al país.

Los países que participan del Programa de exención de visas son los siguientes: Alemania. Andorra, Australia, Austria, Bélgica, Brunei, *Corea del Sur, Dinamarca, *Eslovaquia, Eslovenia, Espána, *Estonia, Finlandia, Francia, *Hungría, Irlanda, Islandia, Italia, Japón, *Letonia, Liechtenstein, * Lituania, Luxemburgo, *Malta, Mónaco, Noruega, Nueva Zelandia, Países Bajos, Portugal,*República Checa, San Marino, Singapur, Suecia, Suiza y el Reino Unido. *Los ciudadanos de estos países deben presentar un electrónicos (e-ppt) pasaporte para ser elegible para del Programa de exención de visas de Estados Unidos.

Los ciudadanos de los demás países exentos de visas deben presentar un pasaporte de lectura electrónica en el marco del Programa de exención de visas de Estados Unidos a partir del 26 de octubre de 2004.

1. Apellido 2. Nombre 3. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año)

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

11.

12.

13.

14.

15.

Nacionalidad Sexo (varón/hembra) Número de Pasaporte Línea Aérea y Número de vuelo País de residencia Ciudad de embarque Domicilio en Estados Unidos (número y calle) Ciudad y Estado Apellido Nombre Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) Nacionalidad

SPANISH / ESPAÑOL ¿Le afecta alguna de estas restricciones a usted? (Conteste Si o No) A. ¿Padece usted de alguna enfermedad contagiosa, deficiencia física o mental, o es adicto a las drogas?

Sí / No

B. ¿Ha sido usted arrestado o condenado por alguna infracción o delito de depravación moral; o por una violación relacionada con estupefacientes; arrestado o condenado por dos o más infracciones cuya sentencia total de reclusión fuera igual o superior a cinco años; ha sido traficante de estupefacientes, o pretende entrar en los Estados Unidos para realizar actividades criminales o inmorales?

Sí / No C. ¿Ha estado o está implicado en actos de espionaje o sabotaje, actividades terroristas o genocidios; o participó de algún modo entre 1933 y 1945 en persecuciones relacionadas con la Alemania nazi o sus aliados? Sí / No D. ¿Tiene intención de trabajar en los Estados Unidos; ha sido excluido o deportado; o ha sido expulsado de los Estados Unidos, o ha obtenido o intentado obtener un visado o la entrada a los Estados Unidos por medios fraudulentos o dando información falsa?

Sí / No E. ¿Ha detenido, retenido, o impedido la custodia de un niño que corresponda legalmente a un ciudadano de los Estados Unidos?

Sí / No F. ¿Se le ha cancelado o denegado alguna vez el visado o la entrada en los Estados Unidos? En caso afirmitavo, especifique?

Sí / No ¿Cúando? ¿Dónde?

G. ¿Ha hecho valer alguna vez su inmunidad frente a un procesamiento?

Sí / No IMPORTANTE: Si ha contestado afirmativamente alguna de las preguntas, comuníquese con la Embajada de los Estados Unidos ANTES de su viaje, ya que se le puede denegar la entrada en los Estados Unidos.

RENUNCIA DE DERECHOS: Por la presente renuncio el derecho a solicitar la revisión del Oficial de Inmigración acerca de mi admisión en los Estados Unidos, o a apelarla, o a impugnar cualquier acto de deportación que no sea por razón de una solicitud de asilo.

DECLARACIÓN: Declaro que he leído y entendido todas las preguntas y enunciados enumerados en esta solicitud, y que las respuestas que he propocionado en este formulario son verdaderas y correctas a mi mejor saber y entender.

STAYING FIT: INFLIGHT FLEXIBILITY Knee Flexion: Lift knee toward chest, decreasing the amount of joint space at back of the knee.

Repeat with other leg.

Dorsiflexion: With heel on floor, point toes upward, decreasing the angle between the foot and front of the leg.

Repeat with other foot.

Eversion: With foot on floor, gently roll the sole of the foot inward. Repeat with other foot.

Knee Extension: Straighten knee, increasing the amount of joint space at the back of the knee to its full range. Repeat with other leg.

Plantar Flexion: Lift the heel and keep toes pointed toward the floor, increasing the angle between the top of the foot and front of the leg. Repeat with other foot.

Inversion: With foot on floor, gently roll the sole of the foot outward. Repeat with other foot.

R1.HEM_1009_Customs&Immigration_.indd 2

08/10/2009 14:29

FOOD & BEVERAGES RELAX WITH YOUR FAVORITE DRINK. Beverage service is available on most United flights.

Alcoholic beverage selections vary according to cabin class and international or domestic flight status. Alcoholic beverages are available for $6-8 on most flights. United First and United Business international flights, please refer to the printed menu.

HAVE A REFRESHING DRINK NONALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES • • • • • • • •

Soft Drinks Tonic Water Seltzer Water Natural Spring Water Milk Tea Assorted Fruit Juices Starbucks Regular and Decaffeinated Coffees

Starbucks Coffee

WINES Coke

Diet Coke UNITED FIRST AND UNITED BUSINESS DOMESTIC FLIGHTS

You will be offered a choice of red and white wines. Selections may include the following: Sprite

Sprite Zero RED

• Trapiche Malbec 2008 Mendoza • Bushman’s Gully Shiraz 2008 Southeastern Australia Ginger Ale

Apple and Tomato Juices

Bloody Mary Mix

Spring Water

Selections may vary on United Express flights.

THE FOLLOWING IS AVAILABLE ON SELECT UNITED FIRST AND UNITED BUSINESS DOMESTIC AND INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS:

UNITED ECONOMY ALL FLIGHTS RED

SPARKLING WINE

• Redwood Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 California

• Bodegas Covides Duc de Foix Brut

WHITE

• Redwood Creek Chardonnay 2007 California

WHITE

United First and United Business travelers on flights between Honolulu and Japan, select IntraPacific flights originating from Japan, and United First travelers between Hawaii and the U.S. mainland will enjoy legendary Trader Vic’s cuisine.

• Yali Chardonnay 2007 Maipo Valley • Two Oceans Sauvignon Blanc 2008 Western Cape

BEER, COCKTAILS, SPIRITS AND LIQUEURS UNITED FIRST, BUSINESS AND ECONOMY

It is United policy on all flights to ask you to use only the lavatories in your ticketed cabin. This policy complies with the U.S. Transportation Security Administration directive that passengers on international flights to the U.S. may use only the lavatories in their ticketed cabin.

Alcohol may be served to customers over 21 only. By FAA rule, we may not serve alcohol to customers who appear intoxicated. Customers are limited to one alcoholic beverage at a time during service. Only alcohol provided by United and served by flight attendants may be consumed onboard.

HEM_1109_Food-Beverage.indd 1

BEER

SPIRITS

• Miller Genuine Draft • Miller Lite • Leinenkugel’s Sunset Wheat

• • • • • •

Beer offerings are subject to availability. A selection of regional beers is offered on some international flights.

• •

COCKTAILS

• Bloody Mary • Screwdriver

• •

Bacardi Rum Canadian Club Reserve Dewar’s White Label Scotch Finlandia Vodka Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey Jim Beam Black Bourbon Whiskey Tanqueray Gin Maker’s Mark Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey Level Vodka Glenlivet Scotch

LIQUEURS

• Courvoisier VSOP Cognac • Bailey’s Irish Cream • Kahlúa

The following are available only on international flights: • Absolut Vodka • Chivas Regal Scotch • Di Saronno Amaretto • Glenlivet Scotch (Internationally premium cabins only)

08/10/2009 11:57

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NOVEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

CROSSWORD BOYS OF SUMMER IF YOU FILL IN THE CROSSWORD PLEASE TAKE THE MAGAZINE WITH YOU SO IT’S REPLACED. // ANSWERS FOUND ON P. 53

R1.HEM_1109_Crossword.indd 1

90. A thick flat pad used as a

floor covering 91. Bard’s “before” 92. English 93. Neighbor of Ger. 94. Palace dweller 96. Like a fine wine or

cheese 98. Ryan Zimmerman’s ID 100. Bowling spare target

often 102. Netting 105. Roman holiday 107. 18-wheeler 108. “As if!”

110. Dregs 112. Calabash (Afr.) 115. Support 118. Hot and humid 120. Foolish month 121. Asian condiment 123. Fix 124. Military caller 125. Simple and

unpretentious 126. Type of show 127. Palm reader, e.g.

128. Fury 129. Sow 130. Playful animal

DOWN 1. Just a buck 2. Loosen, in a way 3. Corrosive 4. Assists 5. Tire pattern 6. Student lodging 7. Select 8. Honey drink 9. Inscriber 10. Morning cut 11. Corn bread 12. In a fitting way 13. Lush 14. Prayer beads 15. Death notice, for short 16. Type of author 19. Whine 21. Taste 22. Make a scene?

26. Pedal 33. Dentist’s order 35. Hatchling’s home 37. Still-life subject 38. Like a well hit home run 40. Raise a formal objection

in a court of law 41. Grasped 42. One’s partner 44. Craving 46. Hum 47. A range of mountains 49. Perry Mason, Ironside 50. A woodwind instrument 51. Quickly 55. On pins and needles 56. Tibia vara 58. Ventilate 59. Choice 60. A cowboy maybe?

61. Unruly crowd 64. Stellar

68. Be in the red 70. Lay to rest 73. “... happily after” 74. Combustible heap 78. Mountaineer’s challenge 80. Competent 81. Get-out-of-jail money 84. Crushed wood for paper 86. Big-ticket 88. The Ranger 89. Spectacles 90. Country estate 93. A pitchman 95. Purposeless or pointless 97. Set the boundaries of 99. Manly characteristics of

energy and vigor 101. Mean 103. Break away 104. A double would be

great!

106. Bar offering 107. Nursery verse 109. Body 111. Like a fox 112. Chitchat 113. Musical composition 114. Encourage 116. Needy 117. Fool 119. Hide 122. Prompt

© P UZ P UZ P UZ Z L E S C R O S SWO R D BY G R E G B RU C E

ACROSS 1. Old gold coin 6. Main web page 10. Massage locale 13. Support, with “up” 17. Broadcasting 18. Start a business 20. Mechanical man 22. Refer 23. Still 24. Willow twig 25. An impressive and stylish person 27. Drool 28. Like some cuts of meat 29. Diplomat’s forte 30. Food additive 31. Road map abbr.

32. Part of BYO 34. Bridle strap 36. Split—or not 39. Hitchcock classic 43. Prison compartment 45. Handle effectively 47. Meet with 48. Biddy 49. Some jazz 52. “A Boy Named ” 53. Be mistaken 54. Destroy 56. Formal dance 57. Depth charge targets 59. An object with a spherical shape 60. Improve 61. Musty 62. Valentine flower 63. Call on 65. Canned tomatoes necessity 66. Wise one 67. So out it’s in 69. Commotion 71. Kind of admiral 72. Remove offensive language 75. Hee 76. Canned 77. Baglike structure 79. Turns you green 80. Let up 82. Memorization method 83. Snoop 85. Ship worker 87. Corner of a diamond 88. Narrow street 89. Australian flightless bird

09/10/2009 12:20

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NOVEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

QUIZ SUDOKU

DRAWING BLANKS

THE NUMBERS GAME // BY REIKO MCLAUGHLIN

SOMETIMES IT REALLY IS WHAT YOU KNOW // BY NOAH TARNOW

1. SLANG DICTIONARY SILLINESS Name the term represented by the following amusing definition found in a standard slang dictionary.

A. Ten letters, (noun): “A devotee of heavy metal rock music, a style dating to the middle 1960s [taken from the frenetic reactions of such persons to the music]” B. Three letters (interjection): “What has just been stated is emphatically not true.”

C. Two letters, two letters (interjection): “An exclamation announcing one’s arrival or some revelation [originally a two-note musical phrase introducing a performer]” D. Sentence: “This cannot happen or have happened without more than one person; cooperation or connivance is indicated [name of a 1950s song].”

2.

3.

5 7 3 9 1 8 6 2 4

MODERATE

M O R E I N F O O N Q U I Z AT B I G Q U I Z T H I N G .C O M . S U D O K U © P U Z P U Z P U Z Z L E S

6 1 4 5 3 2 8 7 9

ANSWERS

9 2 8 4 6 7 5 1 3

1.

8 4 5 1 9 6 7 3 2

2

2 6 1 3 7 5 9 4 8

8

2 5 3 7

7 3 9 2 8 4 1 5 6

6

1 9 6 7 4 3 2 8 5

3

3 5 7 8 2 9 4 6 1

3

4 8 2 6 5 1 3 9 7

1

6 5 9 7

9 5 8 6 2 4 1 3 7

9

3 2 1 7 5 8 9 6 4

6

4 6 7 9 3 1 5 8 2

8 9

4

5 3 4 2 9 6 7 1 8

HARD

1

2 8 6 1 7 5 3 4 9

3.

8 5

7 1 9 8 4 3 6 2 5

1 4 6 3

A. Q: Which characters die onstage in ? A: , Gertrude, Claudius, and .

B. Q: Which actors made up The Club? A: Nelson, Ally , Anthony Hall, and .

C. Q: What are the best-known marshmallow shapes of cereal? A: Pink , moons, orange stars, green , blue .

D. Q: Which baseball players have hit or more home runs in one season?

A: Babe Ruth, , Mark McGwire, , Barry Bonds.

1 9 5 4 6 2 8 7 3

6 1

3. NAME ALL FIVE Can you name all five members of each exclusive group? We remove key words from the question and the answer.

6 7 2 3 8 9 4 5 1

9 7 9 3 2 5 6 6 5 1 7 4 8

8 4 3 5 1 7 2 9 6

2.

8

4 1 2 6 8 3 9 5 7

5 3

6 3 9 5 7 4 8 2 1

1

5 4 3 6 2

7 5 8 9 1 2 6 4 3

8 6

A. Mama’s boy in a house on a hill in search of a woman for ominous conversation.

Let’s take an unforgettable shower. (1960) B. Living representation of mankind’s destructive hubris seeks same. Long hair with streaks of white a plus. (1931) C. Looking for that girl I met in the cemetery who said her name was Barbra. I don’t care about your looks—I’m interested in your brains. Sit tight in the abandoned farmhouse and I’ll find you sooner or later. (1968) D. If you’re a special girl who recently moved to a former Indian burial ground in the suburbs, guess what? I’m here. Let’s watch some TV. (1982) E. Searching for adventurous young filmmakers who enjoy long walks in the woods.

Make me your project. No professional actors, please. (1999)

5 2 6 3 4 7 1 8 9

6

8 7 1 2 5 9 4 3 6

1

7 2 9

3 9 4 1 6 8 5 7 2

4

2. MOVIE MONSTER PERSONAL ADS Name the horror flick featuring these antagonists, who might search for companionship with the following heartfelt missives. To help, we’ve provided the date the film was released.

1 6 3 8 2 5 7 9 4

5

2 4 5 7 9 6 3 1 8

4

9 8 7 4 3 1 2 6 5

1.

2 6 4 2 9 5 7 3 1 5 2 7 9 4

ANSWERS: 1. A. HEADBANGER B. NOT! C. TA-DA D. IT TAKES TWO TO TANGO. 2. A. PSYCHO B. FRANKENSTEIN C. NIGHT OF THE LIVING DEAD D. POLTERGEIST E. THE BLAIR WITCH PROJECT 3. A. HAMLET; POLONIUS; LAERTES; HAMLET B. BREAKFAST; JUDD; SHEEDY; MICHAEL; EMILIO ESTEVEZ; MOLLY RINGWALD C. LUCKY CHARMS; HEARTS; YELLOW; CLOVERS; DIAMONDS D. 60; ROGER MARIS; SAMMY SOSA

EASY

3 1 9

Give An Armchair Tour of California’s Wine Country! ountry!!

This fun and unique gift from Discounts on 3, 6, 9 & 12 months.

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13/10/2009 11:51

United_magazine_BlueAnt_Nov09.indd 1 No.26643 BlueAnt Wireless.indd 1

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NOVEMBER 2009 | UNITED.COM

130

in transit

GETTING TO KNOW YOU WHO HECTOR CHARLES

20 / Sailor BEN WIEDERAENDERS

18 / Sailor WHY WE’RE TRAVELING

HECTOR: We’re off to Groton, Connecticut, for training.

We’re going to learn to be submarine technicians.

I write pithy comments and sarcastic observations in the margins of Hemispheres.

HECTOR: I just read.

WHEN I FLY BEN:

JOIN THE NAVY, SEE THE WORLD

HECTOR: I want to go to Egypt to see the pyramids and all the amazing architecture.

BEN: I’d love to see Stonehenge—my ancestors were druids.

BY ADAM K. RAYMOND

“I want to go to Egypt to see the pyramids and all the amazing architecture.”

PHOTOGRAPH BY SPENCER HEYFRON

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08/10/2009 14:30

Opt to sit farther from your feet.

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©2009 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

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BREAKFAST BREAKFAST ITEMS ITEMSON ON FLIGHTS FLIGHTSDEPARTING DEPARTING BEFORE BEFORE 10 10AM AM BREAKFAST BREAKFAST MUFFIN MUFFIN $$33 Start Startthe theday day with with a delicious delicious muffin; muffin;selections selections may may vary, vary, either either blueberry blueberry or or cinnamon cinnamoncrumb crumb cake.

FRUIT FRUIT AND AND YOGURT YOGURT PARFAIT PARFAIT $ 5$ 5 Low Lowfat fatvanilla vanilla yogurt yogurt served served with withfruit fruitand anda aside side of of granola. granola.

fruit and yogurt parfait

fruit and yogurt parfait

CONTINENTAL CONTINENTAL BREAKFAST BREAKFAST $ 5$ 5 French Frenchtoast toast flavored flavored bagel, bagel, cream creamcheese, cheese,Smuckers Smuckers strawberry strawberry jamjam andand Upstate Upstate Farms Farmsstrawberry strawberry yogurt. yogurt.

HAM HAMAND AND SWISS SWISS CROISSANT CROISSANT $ 5$ 5 Flavorful Flavorfulham ham and and swiss swiss cheese cheeseon onaacroissant croissantwith with dijonnaise dijonnaise sauce sauce (served (served cold). cold).

LUNCH/DINNER LUNCH/DINNER ITEMS ITEMSON ONFLIGHTS FLIGHTSDEPARTING DEPARTING AFTER AFTER 10 10AM AM ASSORTED CHEESE TRAY $ 6 Specially selected cheeses including monterey jack, havarti dill and cheddar, dried cranberries, almonds and assorted Pepperidge Farm crackers.

Sliced salami, mozzarella cheese, havarti dill cheese, Oloves Mediterranean or Vinaigrette olives and Grissini Torino breadsticks.

ROAST BEEF SANDWICH $ 9

antipasto plate p p

ANTIPASTO PLATE $7

Tasty roast beef topped with crisp romaine lettuce and horseradish mayonnaise on ciabatta bread, accompanied by Kettle Classics potato chips.

TURKEY SANDWICH $ 9

THAI CHICKEN WRAP $ 9 Grilled chicken breast, romaine lettuce, julienned carrots, red and yellow bell pepper strips and thai aioli sauce wrapped in a tortilla, accompanied by Kettle Classics potato chips.

turkeyy sandwich

Tender smoked turkey topped with crisp romaine lettuce and sundried tomato aioli sauce on multigrain bread, accompanied by Kettle Classics potato chips.

SPINACH SALAD $ 9 A vegetarian delight of fresh spinach, blue cheese crumbles, dried cranberries and walnut halves, served with balsamic vinaigrette dressing on the side.

CHICKEN CAESAR SALAD $ 9

PAYMENT EasyPurchase Only credit/debit cards are accepted. not serve peanuts as snacks peanutsororpeanut peanutoils oilsininfoods foods UnitedUnited doesdoes not serve peanuts as snacks or or useuse peanuts served on our flights. However, we do serve vendor products manufactured in served on our flights.

However, we do serve vendor products manufactured in facilities that also produce items containing peanuts or peanut oils, and we do facilities that alsomixes produce items containing peanuts peanut oils,and and we do have snack that contain other tree nuts, suchoras almonds pistachios. have snack mixes that contain other tree nuts, such as almonds and pistachios.

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chicken caesar salad

Grilled chicken, red and yellow bell pepper strips, shredded parmesan cheese and croutons on a bed of crisp romaine lettuce, served with classic caesar dressing on the side.

seven daysdays of your Your ualsurvey.com within seven of your Your feedback feedbackisiswelcomed welcomedviavia ualsurvey.com within flight. United, Choice Menu, and EasyPurchase are trademarks of United. All flight.

United, Choice Menu, and EasyPurchase are trademarks of United.

All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. other trademarks the property of theironrespective owners.

We apologize if your are selection is not available today’s flight.

We apologize if your selection is not available on today’s flight.

07/10/2009 16:08

spinach salad

WELCOME ABOARD! We are delighted to have you flying with us today. United is pleased to offer Choice Menu meal and snack selections for purchase on most flights within North America. Fresh breakfast and lunch/dinner selections are available on most flights over three hours. Snackboxes and à la carte snacks are available on most flights over two hours.

Please enjoy the service and thank you for flying with United.

SNACKBOXES AVAILABLE ALL DAY

ACTIVE $ 6

Stoned Classics Tortilla Chips t Heinz Salsa t Blue Diamond Almonds t Think Fruit Chocolate Pomegranate Power Bar t Newman’s Own Organic Raisins t Hannah’s Honey Cured Turkey Stick

CLASSIC $ 6

Kettle Backyard BBQ Chips t Oreo Cookies t Jelly Belly Gourmet Jelly Beans t Pepperidge Farm Goldfish Crackers t Sparrer Beef Salami t Gourmet Cheddar Cheese Spread t Pepperidge Farm Crackers

LUXE $7

Rondelé Peppercorn Parmesan Cheese Spread t Pepperidge Farm Crackers t Food Should Taste Good Multigrain Tortilla Chips t Oloves Mediterranean or Vinaigrette Olives t Wild Garden Hummus Dip t Real Torino Sesame Breadsticks t Asher’s Dark Chocolate Pretzel

ORGANIC $7

Late July Organic Cheddar Cheese Crackers t Terra Nostra Organic Dark Chocolate Square t Kettle Valley Organic Fruit Snack t Nature’s Path Organic Pumpkin Flaxplus Granola t Bare Fruit Organic Cinnamon Apple Chips

À LA CARTE AVAILABLE ALL DAY $ 3 Lay’s Stax Potato Chips

Fisher Salty Nut Mix

Toblerone Chocolate Bar

Clif Bar Oatmeal Raisin Walnut

Walkers Shortbread Cookies

Odwalla Banana Nut Nutritional Bar

Starbucks VIATM Ready Brew 3 pack

REFRESHMENTS AVAILABLE ALL DAY PREMIUM Non-alcoholic Beverages $ 3

SPIRITS $ 6

mySmoothie Fruit Smoothie Beverage A delicious and healthful treat with 100% mixed fruit and berries, additive and preservative free.

PREMIUM Alcoholic Beverages Leinenkugel’s Sunset Wheat Beer $7 Glenlivet Single Malt Scotch Whisky $ 8 Level Vodka $ 8 Maker’s Mark Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whisky Trader Vic’s Mai Tai (served on Hawaii flights to/from the mainland) $ 8

BEER $ 6 Miller Genuine Draft Miller Lite

Bacardi Rum Canadian Club Reserve Whisky Dewar’s White Label Scotch Finlandia Vodka Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey Jim Beam Black Bourbon Whiskey Tanqueray Gin

RED WINE $ 6 $

8

Redwood Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 California

WHITE WINE $ 6 Redwood Creek Chardonnay 2007 California

LIQUEURS $ 6 Bailey’s Irish Cream Courvoisier VSOP Cognac Kahlúa

Alcohol may be served to customers over 21 only. By FAA rule, we may not serve alcohol to customers who appear intoxicated. Customers are limited to one alcoholic beverage time duringover service.

OnlyBy alcohol provided

by United and served attendants be consumed onboard.

Alcohol may be served at to acustomers 21 only.

FAA rule, we may not serve alcoholbytoflight customers whomay appear intoxicated.

Customers are limited to one alcoholic beverage at a time during service. Only alcohol provided by United and served by flight attendants may be consumed onboard.

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07/10/2009 16:08

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© 2009 Sony Electronics Inc. Sony and the Sony logo are trademarks of Sony. Bose, QC are trademarks of Bose Corp.

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