United Airlines Hemispheres Magazine March 2010 by Ahmed Aamir

HEMISPHERES A STAR ALLIANCE MEMBER THREE PERFECT DAYS: AUSTIN NEW YORK’S NEW LUXURY HOTEL BOOM (ONE LUCKY WRITER TRIES THEM ALL) STYLE SPECIAL CYNTHIA ROWLEY, ROBERTO CAVALLI AND LONDON’S TOP FASHION SCHOOL PLUS: ROCKER KEITH RICHARDS BREAKING BAD’S BRYAN CRANSTON AND A VISIT TO THE CONSUMER ELECTRONICS SHOW ,

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contents UNITED.COM | HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM PAULJOSHUABYPHOTOGRAPH

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Hotel YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY

New York is on a hotel building spree, and where there were once just a handful of elite choices, now there are literally dozens. DREAMS | P. 72 DREAMS

8680 INTELLIGENT DESIGN Central Saint Martins College has turned out some of the biggest names in fashion. But looking so good is very hard work.

New York City has seen more than 30 new luxury hotels open in the past year and a half. Hemispheres tests the mattresses and puts the bellhops through their paces.

New York’s Bowery

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BY SARAH HORNE PHOTOGRAPHS BY VICKI CHURCHILL THREE PERFECT DAYS: AUSTIN The Texas capital boasts more live music per capita than any other U.S. city, as well as some of the best barbecue brisket in the world and a hefty dose of weirdness. BY MARK HEALY

BY MIKE GUY PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOSHUA PAUL 72

departments COVER IMAGE Paul Blow // paulblow.com 12 Comments 15 Voices When disaster struck Haiti, United pitched in to help. 18 Connections United gets you there on time. 20 Wish You Were Here DISPATCHES 23 Notes From All Over Feathers fly in Prague; Bulgaria redefines slow food farming; a Rolling Stone gathers some moss in Turks & Caicos; Stilton, England, goes up against Big Cheese; and Chicago’s funniest institution turns 50. DIRECTIONS 29 News Where to stay, what to see, when to go. 35 Goods 38 Whirlwind Five hours in Frankfurt 40 MARCH 2010 | UNITED .COM BENOISTCLAIREDINNER,ALLISONDAVIES,ROGERBYPHOTOGRAPHSLEFT:FROM 44 6243 62 Food & Drink A new wave of artisanal salts is shaking up our salt shakers. // By Salma Abdelnour 66 Diary Getting locked in an apartment turns out to be an unusual social entrée in Vienna. By Sarah Wildman 71 Artifact A souvenir from the field PLAY 101 Movies, television and audio programming 112 Route Maps and Terminal Diagrams 124 Crossword and Sudoku 130 In Transit Who’s sitting next to you? WRITE TO US: Hemispheres.ed@ink-publishing.com HEMISPHERES MAGAZINE 68 Jay St. Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 SUBSCRIBE TO HEMISPHERES For a free subscription to our monthly eMag and to access recent issues, go to HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM CULTURE 40 Hero Anthony Martin puts kids on the fast track at his Urban Youth Racing School. // By Layla Schlack 43 Style Designer Cynthia Rowley spiffs up United’s employee uniforms. // By Sarah Horne 44 Print Even the best vintage shops have nothing on author Lisa Tracy’s home. // By Layla Schlack 46 Sound Irish band The Chieftains venture south of the border. By K. Leander Williams 48 Vision Breaking Bad’s Bryan Cranston explains his unlikable character. By Adam K. Raymond 50 Wheels The Range Rover accelerates when it’s in its element: mud. // By Mike Guy 53 Whereabouts Designer Roberto Cavalli lounges in the Mediterranean. 55 Sports With March Madness around the corner, a basketball lover finally learns how to shoot a jumper. // By Jason Gay 59 Industry A trip to the Consumer Electronics Show proves gadgets still can’t replace pressing the flesh. By Adam K. Raymond

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EDITOR’S NOTE: Help yourself! Cabin crew will replace missing copies. Web commenter Rebecca Rolfes was similarly affected, writing via hemispheresmagazine.com: “I spent a month in India earlier this year and tooled around in several tuk-tuks, but 2,000 miles! And in that traffic! Brave or insane? Very Meanwhile,entertaining.”TriciaDespres’ profile of female boxers training for the Olympics, “The Girls of Summer” (December 2009), drew web commenter Angelique: “GREAT article and photos! Let’s hope these hardworking elite athletes get some much deserved publicity as they enter the Olympic arena for the first time!”

WHAT DO YOU THINK? WRITE TO US! Hemispheres.ed@ink-publishing.com HEMISPHERES MAGAZINE 68 Jay St. Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 ? Tuk ContributorsEverlasting

SALMA ABDELNOUR A contributor to Food & Wine and The New York Times, Abdelnour has the tough task of traveling the world sampling the very best dishes and ﬂavors (“’Tis the Seasoning,” page 62). “The best meal I ever had was at El Bulli in Spain,” she says. “I was worried it might be a mind-blowing.”butafterdisappointmentallthehype,itwasabsolutely

“A Passage Through India,” Richard Knapp’s tale of driving an auto-rickshaw across the subcontinent, struck a nerve with reader Brianna Limebrook, a marketing executive: “I ﬂy frequently and always enjoy checking out the latest Hemispheres. I read the article ‘A Passage Through India’ in your November 2009 issue and, to say the least, I was inspired. “For days, I couldn’t get the article out of my head; the narrative of what two people were willing to take on in the name of charity was truly an eyeopener. I emailed the online version of ‘A Passage Through India’ to two of my friends in San Francisco and asked if they would consider forming a team with me and signing up to race across India in a tuk-tuk as part of the Autumn 2010 Rickshaw Run. They were both in, and our three-person team, Raiders of the Lost Tuk (losttuk.com), was born. Our team will be raising money for the Juvenile Diabetes Research Foundation, a cause close to our hearts. I just wanted to write to thank you for publishing this article that, for me, was a life-changing story. “P.S. I'm hoping there’s no bad karma for cheating the next person sitting in my plane seat out of that Hemispheres issue; it was so good, I just had to take it!”

VICKI CHURCHILL “Spending a couple of days on campus was inspiring,” says the photographer, who shot her alma mater, Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, for “Intelligent Design” (page 80). “Something about that building MediaexhibitNeetarecentlycreativity.”encouragesChurchillworkedwithMadaharonanattheNationalMuseum.

Wisdom,”ShowConsumerexperienceVegasattheElectronics(“Conventionalpage59).“ThecoolestthingtherewasaniPhoneappthatcontrolsamodelhelicopter,”hereports.“Seemslikeitwouldprovidehoursofentertainment.”Raymondalsowritesfor New York Magazine.

12 comments MARCH 2010 | UNITED .COM EDITOR IN CHIEF Aaron Gell EXECUTIVE EDITOR Mike Guy ASSOCIATE EDITORS Adam K. Raymond, Layla Schlack ART DIRECTOR Rob Hewitt DESIGNER Ellie Clayman PHOTO EDITOR Erin Giunta CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Jane Black, Jason Gay, Alyssa Giacobbe Sarah Horne, Edward Lewine, Grant Stoddard, Matt Thompson CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS Claire Benoist, Spencer Heyfron, John Lawton, Graham Roumieu EXECUTIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR Michael Keating U.S. EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Orion Ray-Jones INK PUBLISHING, 68 Jay Street, Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 TEL: +1 347-294-1220 FAX: +1 Hemispheres.ed@ink-publishing.com917-591-6247 hemispheresmagazine.com WEBMASTER Salah Lababidi ADVERTISING U.S. GROUP PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Steve Andrews SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGERS Al Loise, Ari Kasimov, Catherine Hanson, Cynthia Carns, David Low, Emily Anton, Jorge REGIONALAbadiaREPRESENTATIVE HAWAII Robert Wiegand TEL: +1 808-587-8300 INTERNATIONAL REPRESENTATIVES CHINA/JAPAN TEL:JOSEPHINE.HO@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+85235419890 SOUTHEAST ASIA TEL:SHAZEEN.MOLEDINA@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+6563022465 EUROPE TEL:MARK.DUKE@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+442076138796 MIDDLE EAST TEL:ANTHONY.AZOURY@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+442076138798 LATIN AMERICAN PRODUCTIONTEL:ALEJANDRO.SALAS@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+528150307415MANAGER Joe Massey TEL: +1 PRODUCTION678-553-8091CONTROLLERS Grace Rivera, Diksha Patel Ink Publishing (sales), Capital Building, 255 East Paces Ferry Road, Suite 400, Atlanta, GA 30305 TEL: +1 888-864-1733 FAX: +1 917-591-6247 INK PUBLISHING CEO Jeffrey O’Rourke COO Hugh Godsal PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Simon Leslie HEMISPHERES is produced monthly by Ink Publishing. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions expressed in HEMISPHERES are not necessarily those of the Publisher or United Airlines, and United Airlines does not accept any responsibility for advertising content. Any images are supplied at the owner’s risk. Any mention of United Airlines or the use of United Airlines logo by any advertiser in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company or its products or services by United Airlines. HEMISPHERES ADAM K. RAYMOND Hemispheres’ associate editor had his ﬁrstever Las

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Behind-the-scenes, a team co-led by Jackson and Jim DeYoung, managing director of United’s operations control center, formulated a highly coordinated relief plan involving scores of United employees. Senior management quickly gave the plan a green light and put the appropriate resources where they needed to be to ﬂy safely to Haiti.

AFTER RETURNING from Haiti last month, Sonya Jackson, managing director Corporate Social Investment for United and president of the United Airlines Foundation, can say ﬁrst-hand that the immediate needs we all heard about were obvious: Water, medical supplies and relief workers had to be shipped in; evacuees, mostly children, needed to be transported out.

“We have assets that are not easy to come by,” notes Jackson. “Planes, ﬂight crews…there are certain things that only an airline with a global reach can do.”

As one of the world’s largest airlines, it was clear that United was in a position to help and took immediate action to do so.

Using its global reach to bring people together, United responds to urgent crises such as the earthquake in Haiti. BY ROD O’CONNOR

Flying into Port-au-Prince—a city United normally doesn’t serve— necessitated regular contact with the military’s U.S. Southern Command, which is overseeing relief efforts in Haiti, implementing a strict ﬂight schedule that allows ﬂights to arrive and depart the damaged airport.

Jackson’s team, working closely with corporate and non-proﬁt partners, quickly assembled the supplies most needed in Haiti, totaling 150,000 pounds of donated food, water,

medicine, tents and other critical goods transported in six trips. This overwhelming amount of supplies that United needed to transport, including relief workers – some with up to 55 bags – was unprecedented and broke all cargo records for the company.

“With some of the people and supplies that we transported in and out of Haiti—orphans, doctors, relief workers, cargo—we had existing partnerships with their respective organizations,” Jackson explains. “But there were many other groups where we didn’t. In those instances, we picked up the phone and started developing those relationships.”Jacksonand her team are focused on finding the best ways to leverage United’s resources—not only aircraft and corporate relationships, but also connecting customers and employees who want to help—to respond to the challenges facing the communities that they serve. United made it easy for employees and customers to donate Mileage Plus miles and cash to the American Red Cross, a longtime United partner, just as the company did when it facilitated the donation of more than 71 million miles after the tsunami in Asia five years ago. United is also connecting its customers and employees to another important cause—hunger. Nearly 49 million Americans currently lack necessary food, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture. Starting this month, United is empowering customers to fight this growing problem by purchasing an “Eat for Good” snackbox, with one dollar from each purchase going to the national voices

“Eat for Good” is just the latest example of United making connections. Since 2007, the Hugyou Family Teddy Bear program has encouraged ﬂyers to donate dollars or Mileage Plus miles to raise funds and deliver teddy bears to children undergoing medical treatment. Plus, the ongoing Charity Miles program makes it easy for customers to go online and donate unused miles. In 2008 alone, nearly 200 million miles were donated to help organizations like the American Red Cross to ﬂy relief workers to areas impacted by natural disasters.

“What impresses me the most is the way our people are willing to give,” Jackson says of her fellow employees. “They care. They get involved. They could not be more generous with their time.

But perhaps United’s best example of connecting its employees with the community is during events like the Breast Cancer Network of Strength’s Walks to Empower and the annual Holiday Giving program, which supplies gifts and a holiday meal for those in need.

“’Every Action Counts’ is something we take to heart,” she adds. “We constantly look for ways to engage the hearts and minds of our employees and of our customers. We ﬁrmly believe that it’s the collective action we all take that really makes that difference.”

Artist Melissa Don designed the “Eat for Good” snackbox based on her love of nature organization Feeding America (see the Choice Menu on the back cover). The attention-grabbing, brightly colored snackbox was designed by a student from After School Matters, another United partner program led by Maggie Daley, wife of Chicago Mayor Richard M. Daley, that provides after-school initiatives for Chicago students.

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Jackson and her team focus on the best ways to leverage United’s resources to respond to the ongoing challenges facing the global community.

16 MARCH 2010 | UNITED.COM

“Jim was a great partner and led our operations effort tirelessly,” Jackson says. “Every employee who worked on our relief flights contributed a critical piece to the success of this important mission.” Extra cargo weight required special coordination among United’s cargo, weight and balance, and ramp services teams. “Our cargo team had to ensure the aircraft was loaded in a way that maximized every inch of the aircraft,” Jackson notes. “Our ramp personnel loaded more cargo than they normally would consider for a typical flight and our load planning team had to ensure the balance of the aircraft. They all did an amazing job.” Prior to each flight, United employees worked with the State Department and U.S. Customs and Border Patrol to bring hundreds of individuals, including orphans who had been paired with adoptive parents, back from Haiti to the United States. Employees escorted Haitian orphans to their new parents in Colorado, completing adoptions that had long been in the works. United’s airport operations team ensured passenger handling, security and international documentation requirements were met At the Port-au-Prince airport, there are no parallel taxiways, so United’s pilots had to land and turn around at the end of the runway, taxi midway back and pull off on a narrow taxiway. The onboard crews who welcomed earthquake victims onto air-conditioned planes provided comfort in the form of water, sandwiches, and simple human compassion.

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Time Flies

United ranks ﬁrst in 2009 on-time performance among America’s ﬁve largest global carriers.*

SINCE YOU NEVER SEEM to have enough time, United wants you to make the most of it. Celebrate the closing of a deal. Enjoy a reunion with an old friend. See the gamewinning score in a child’s soccer game. When time matters, choose United, the #1 airline in on-time performance for domestic scheduled flights among America’s five largest global carriers in 2009*, according to recently published arrival data in the U.S. Department of Transportation’s Air Travel Consumer Report. As you can imagine, we’re proud to be first in this group. On-time flights mean making it to your meetings as scheduled. On-time flights mean seeing your family as planned. On-time flights mean improved baggage handling, so you arrive ready to go. And on-time flights mean a generally happier travel experience, which we all appreciate. For the past year, we have sharpened our focus on the fundamentals of running a good airline. Priority one: getting you safely to your destination on time, every time. Because time flies. So have fun.

Flight delays related to weather and air traffic control do happen. Reduced visibility, wind speed or wind direction, high altitude weather conditions, or rain or snow anywhere along your route may cause delays. But we’ll always put your safety ahead of your Technologyschedule.can help you stay a step ahead. At United.com, you can check the status of your flight, and then sign up for mobile alerts to ensure you’re informed of any changes. And if you miss a connection, you may be able to use our self-service easyCheck-in Kiosks to rebook your flight and print a new boardingWhateverpass.the reason for your travels, we understand your time is valuable. We’re proud to have risen to first among America’s five largest global carriers in on-time performance, and excited to keep delivering.

* According to recently published arrival data in the U.S. Department of Transportation’s Air Travel Consumer Report, United ranked highest in on-time performance for domestic scheduled ﬂights as measured by the U.S. DOT (ﬂights arriving within 14 minutes of scheduled arrival time) between January 1 and December 31, 2009, when compared to the largest U.S. global carriers based on available seat miles, enplaned passengers or passenger revenue, which includes Delta (including its Northwest subsidiary), American, Continental and US Airways Visit united.com

MARCH 2010 | UNITED.COM

SOMETIMES THINGS GET IN THE WAY

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18 connections

20 wish you were here MARCH 2010 | UNITED.COM

TOKYO // PHOTOGRAPH BY TODD ANTONY BIG IN JAPAN // The red Tokyo Tower reaches through the fog.

ILLUSTRATIONS

FIONA

“It’s a brilliant idea: You can beat so many people with pillows!” participant Zdenek Hrebejk told local reporters, as surprised passersby watched with amusement, many documenting the event on their cameras and phones. “It’s the most original concept possible.”

As the mob dispersed, Old Town Square took on a lovely holiday appearance—providing no one looked too closely. “It’s a really nice atmosphere,” said student Blanka Havlickova. Of course, for the city workers left with the task of sweeping the square, the spectacle might have seemed somewhat less than magical. GAZE Prague Czechs demonstrate the unbearable lightness of goose down. BY GRAHAM ROUMIEU dispatches

KnowsFeatherBest

THE ONLY THING missing from the Old Town Square’s picture-perfect Christmas markets just before 8 p.m. on December 17 is a ﬂurry of white stuff drifting gently to the ground. That is about to change, however. Amid the throngs of tourists and locals perusing the stalls selling mulled wine and handicrafts below the square’s astronomical clock are several hundred people hiding feather pillows. And they aren’t planning on napping. Five minutes before the hour, a whistle sounds, and the square explodes into a massive pillow-ﬁghting free-for-all.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MARCH 2010

What astonished onlookers may not have realized is that they’d stumbled into a so-called “flash mob” event organized through Facebook. In its second successful year, the fight had seen nearly 3,000 sign up via the social networking site. The biting temperatures deterred all but the most dedicated, but the 60-second event still succeeded in taking over the square, however briefly. Some pillow-toting bandits were so enthusiastic—and had come sufficiently wellarmed—that the eiderdown continued to fly half an hour later.

23 NOTES FROM ALL OVER

“Oh, he’s very kind and very funny, and he thinks he’s a pirate,” says a resort employee recently arrived from Malaysia, who had never heard of him before she got to Parrot Cay. “I was at his villa and I heard him playing guitar and said to him, ‘You play guitar very beautifully, Mister Richards.’ He said thank you. As I later learned, evidently he is a very legendary musician.”

A few people mingle at the bar, and a friend ﬁnally arrives. “Hello, love,” Richards says, digging into a hamburger (no bun). The topic of late-night TV comes up. Jay and Conan both have their supporters. “Now I really liked Johnny,” Hansen says. “Yeah. ‘Heeeeere’s Johnny!’” Richards rasps. “That guy was ﬂash. Real class.”—MIKE GUY Idol Chatter

Parrot Cay, Turks & Caicos

—JORDANandKostov.partnersclamssuchtripethinkmoreDespiteusescosmetics)pharmaceuticalsnotablyandhavefoundforthemolluskmeat.apredilectionforunpretentiouscuisine—cabbage,porkandsoup—BulgariansasKostovarehappyaswiththeirnewinslime.“Ilovethesnail,”says“Itmakesmemoney,itnevercomplains.”HELLER MARCH 2010 | UNITED.COM 24 dispatches

“You cannot tell that there is a farm here,” says Krasimir Kostov, a top Bulgarian snail breeder, as he walks the length of his large free-range snail farm in the northern Bulgarian village of Pleven. “Snails do not moo.” Like many of his countrymen, 45-year-old Kostov has no gastronomic interest in escargot—if you mention it he makes a face like he’s swallowed a lemon. But inquire about the economic prospects of his booming farm, and his expression instantly brightens. For him, and the rest of the snail breeders in this modest Balkan nation, the burgeoning escargot industry is all about maximum output. One nation’s critters are another’s gourmet treasure. In 2009, Kostov exported upward of a half million of his Helix aspersa—one of three common edible species—to aﬁcionados throughout Western Europe. Some 300 new farms are reportedly set to open in Bulgaria in 2010, which is good news for the country (Bulgaria is the poorest nation in the European Union), and also for French and Italian snail lovers, who’ve developed a taste for the Bulgarian imports.Bulgaria’s success is also good news for the snail population, which has been declining steadily for the past decade as other industries (most

Just before dinner at the Lotus Restaurant bar, a cozy openair pagoda at the exquisite retreat on Parrot Cay, in Turks & Caicos, three thirtysomething doctors are discussing insurance coverage of MRIs versus CAT scans. Then a much older man with salty, matted gray hair, his tanned skin as beaten up and lined as an old saddle, enters, accompanied by a stunning blonde. The doctors stop talking. One whispers, “Is that Keith Richards?”Indeedit is. The grizzled guitarist from the Rolling Stones is here with his wife of 27 years, Patti Hansen. This languorous and luxurious cay is Richards’ winter redoubt, and his villa shares beachfront with Christie Brinkley, Bruce Willis and Donna Karan. And he can be found at this bar on any given night chatting amiably over drinks with visitors.

Pleven, Bulgaria SLOW FOOD

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Throughout the weekend festival—which features panels, performances and ﬁlm screenings, the small Second City theater complex is brimming with boldface-name comedians. There’s ’60s icon David Steinberg lingering in the alumni lounge near a buffet of chilled seafood. And Steve Carell, star of The Ofﬁce, wearing a puffy ski jacket and kibitzing with talk show host Bonnie Hunt. The warm and nostalgic mood is not unlike that of a college homecoming—that is, if a single university graduated the funniest people on the planet. Indeed, there’s a reason Second City is called “the Harvard of Comedy.”

Kicking back in the cramped lobby less than an hour before show time, Harold Ramis—the actor/writer/director responsible for such landmark laugh-fests as Stripes and Groundhog Day—appears relaxed. If he’s worried about ﬁve decades’ worth of yuk-artists shaking off the dust onstage, he isn’t showing it.

England CHEESE WHIZ

—ROD O’CONNOR

The village of Stilton, in the English countryside, is in a pickle. Though an aromatic British cheese bears the town’s name, a recent European Union ruling determined it can be made only in Richardwasnamedvillage—claimsisAssociationruleunsurprisingly,notNottinghamshire—andLeicestershireDerbyshire,andinStilton.Stiltonians,thinkthestinks.TheStiltonCheesemakers(SCA)—whichnotassociatedwiththethecheeseisforthetownwhereitﬁrstsoldtothepublic.Landy,ahistorian

Funny People

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says Olive Main, chair of the Stilton Parish Council. Though the SCA now mentions Landy’s research on its website, the law remains. Pending a new petition of the EU by the association, Stilton still can’t be made in —JEANETTEStilton.HURT the town, which already hosts a currentlyfromupthat“Theothercheesechampionship,“cheese-rolling”aportandfestivalandvariouscheese-basedevents.wholevillageisexcitedwenolongerhavetoputwithcausticcommentstheplacesthatmakethecheese,”

“It’s like walking a tightrope,” Willard says of the freewheeling improv method that’s turned Second City into a de facto farm team for Saturday Night Live (alums include Bill Murray, Chris Farley and Tina Fey). “If you make it across, you’re wonderful. But if you get out there and the wind blows, people will say, ‘He used to be so good.’”

“Every time I’ve done something serious, I’ve gotten laughs,” says funnyman Fred Willard, strolling the red carpet during the 50th anniversary of famed Chicago comedy cabaret Second City. “So why not try to be funny?” Being funny comes naturally to Willard, as it does to the scores of alumni here to perform classic scenes for a couple hundred lucky ticket holders during a onenight-only show. But the man who ad-libbed his way through movies such as Best in Show and A Mighty Wind is still nervous about returning to the hallowed ground where improvisation-based sketch comedy was essentially invented.

and potter who specializes in cheese StiltonStiltonandstudyingresearch400iteventooverhave“becauseSCAinaboutpeopledisagrees.ceramics,“ManyobjectivehavebeenskepticalthecheeseoriginatingLeicestershire,astheclaims,”saysLandy,theywouldnotdraggedtheircheese30milesofbadroadsStiltonjusttosellit.Andiftheydid,whycallStilton?”Landyspenthoursinlibrariesandofficesandonlinethecheese’shistory,hediscoveredthatwas,infact,madeininthe17thcentury.Landy’sbombshellrocked

“It’s not without any fear,” says Ramis. “But these are people who are not stopped by their fear. That’s what deﬁnes the successful Second City actor. Everyone’s afraid to improvise. But we do it anyway.”

MARCH 2010 | UNITED.COM 26 dispatches

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CateringFuel – Equipment – Other Provisions Marinas–Repairs Anchorages Greece is all about sea…an aquatic heaven, full of life…Bounding the mainland from side to side, Greek seas create an amalgamation of images…interchanging with each other…completing one another…fostering absolute harmony and sheer beauty… SailtheDream “ Bon voyage our fellow sailor, but most importantly Godspeed! ” USEFUL INFORMATION

March is a special time in Ireland—full of clover and, thanks to St. Patrick, devoid of snakes. Enjoy the scenery with golf and falconry, then retire to an 800-year-old castle. Luxury B&Bs Dromoland Castle and Castlemartyr Resort are offering packages starting at €260 for two nights. Leprechaun sightings—and accompanying pots of gold—not included. carlyleinternational.us George Harrison and John Lennon at Dromoland Castle in 1964

WHERE TO STAY / WHAT TO SEE / WHEN TO GO HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MARCH 2010 29 news COLLECTIONEVERETTBYPHOTOGRAPH directions

King of the Castleg

COLLECTION;WALKERTHEOFCOURTESYWIREIMAGE;BYADIBF;OFCOURTESYBACARO;OFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPHSTOP:FROMCLOCKWISE

TOTALLY PSYCHEDELIC // Those sporting a touch of gray will want to break out the tie-dye for the ﬁrst large-scale exhibition of Grateful memorabiliaDeadever.

6-7

SWEET PROVIDENCE, RHODE ISLAND // A word of advice to patrons of Bacaro, Brian Kingsford’s joint near Brown University: Study up. There are three varieties of oyster with seven accompaniments (you do the math), 33 cicchetti (Italian tapas), a massive collection of charcuterie and 10 housemade chocolates. Fortunately, it’s hard to make a mistake. (Yes, there are entrées, too.) bacarorestaurant.net

MAXWELL, SMART // Starting this month, Seattle-bound travelers have a new option for accommodations in the trendy Victorian Queen Anne neighborhood. The family-owned Maxwell Hotel is walking distance from the Space Needle, the Experience Music Project and several theaters. themaxwellhotel.com

2-7

14-19 ASPEN, COLORADO // With skiwear fashion shows and nighttime concerts on the mountain, Aspen Fashion Week reminds us why the trendsetters do their schussing here. aspenfashionweek.com

ABU DHABI // Hobnob with the literary crowd, including top authors from around the world, and replenish your library at the Abu Dhabi International Book Fair. adbookfair.com

SPOTLIGHTDINING

LONDON // The intriguingly named Do Something Different Weekend at the Barbican Centre will stimulate your brain with interactive arts, music and theater. barbican. org.uk 13 CHICAGO // Though by no means the only locale that celebrates St. Patrick’s Day, the Windy City is apparently the only place devoted enough to dye its river green for the past 48 years. chicagostpatsparade.com

The New York Historical Society will show concert posters, fan mail and stage props. See it before July 4, when the collection is ﬁled away in the Dead archive at University of California Santa Cruz. nyhistory.org

RETRO-PERSPECTIVE // You’ve seen M.C. Escher prints on dorm-room walls, but in person, they’ll really blow your mind. Through April 11, the Boca Raton Museum of Art will be holding one of the most comprehensive Escher exhibitions ever presented in the U.S. Just watch your step on the stairs as you leave. bocamuseum.org

HOTELMAXWELLOFCOURTESYARCHIVE;DEADGRATEFULCRUZ,SANTACALIFORNIA,OFUNIVERSITYOFCOURTESY

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Quieter than ever before.

Welcome to an even quieter world.

MOSCOW // Didn’t make it to the Tony Awards? Try the Golden Mask Festival. Don’t miss the three-week performance marathon leading up to the gala ceremony. goldenmask.ru/eng

The King’s Cup Elephant Polo Tournament, that’s how. anantaraelephantpolo.com

10-11 MOULTON, ALABAMA // It doesn’t reveal which came ﬁrst, but the Chicken and Egg Festival conﬁrms both are delicious. ala bamachickenandeggfestival.com

21-28 CHIANG RAI, THAILAND // You like polo, and you like elephants, but how do you combine those two passions?

MUMMY DEAREST // Move over, Egypt. China’s 4,000-year-old mummies are in such good shape you can see their hair color (blond). They’re on display alongside ancient Chinese clothing and documents at the Bowers Museum in Santa Ana, California. bowers.org

JUST DESERTS // L’Auberge de Sedona is completing its $25 million renovation, which includes the gourmet L’Auberge Restaurant on Oak Creek, the Wanderlust Library and Lounge and comfy cottages. Looks like Palm Springs has competition. lauberge.com

A PAINTED HISTORY //

19-21 TORONTO // As you may know via other channels, the Psychic Expo is coming up. Can you see what will happen there? esp888.com

Spend a little “face time” with one of the most important female artists of the 20th century.

“Alice Neel: Painted Truths” is a comprehensive look at the artist credited with reinventing portraiture (some of her lesser-known cityscapes are included for good measure). The exhibition is at The Museum of Fine Arts, Houston all month before heading off to London. mfah.org

ISLAS BONITAS // We could all use an island getaway, preferably planned with tips from locals about insider things to do. Moon Handbooks are written by people from the places they are writing about. This month, Perseus Books releases an updated Dominican Republic guide. Its canon includes up-to-date volumes on the Virgin Islands and Bermuda. perseusbooks.com

27- APRIL 18

MARCHCALENDAR

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Sit back. Relax. And enjoy triple miles. Visit united.com/hem or call 800-298-6873 to apply or learn more about our new family of cards. Offer Code: CQCP Accounts subject to credit approval. Restrictions and limitations apply. Annual credit card fee applies. United Mileage Plus Visa credit cards are issued by Chase Bank USA, N.A. See www.united.com/hem for pricing and rewards details. Print Date: 12/09 PH_31803 Introducing the Mileage Plus ® Select Visa ®. The only card that offers you triple miles on United purchases— and a whole lot more.

The highly engineered Prestige Pro is smarter than your average racquet.

BY ADAM K. RAYMOND PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN LAWTON Racquetology goods

Used to be you could string some “natural gut” across a wooden hoop and you had yourself a primo tennis racquet. No longer. These days it’s all space-age metals and lab-engineered polymers. Consider the Prestige Pro from Dutch tennis company Head. It uses YouTek, a proprietary technology combining something called d3o, a “smart material” that allows the racquet to react to you, with a Teﬂon polymer that all but eliminates string friction. The result: a racquet that will make your opponents swear you are the one who was engineered in a lab.

HIT ME Prestige Pro / $225 / head.com 35 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MARCH 2010

The Original Hawaiian Slipper Pendant with Diamonds$239 Matching Earrings available $369 Available in 14K Yellow, White or Rose Gold Chain additional OAHU: Ala Moana Center Waikiki Beachwalk Hilton Hawaiian Village MAUI: Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center Lahaina Cannery The Shops at Wailea Whalers Village Front Street (2 locations) Hyatt Regency Maui Grand Wailea Resort KAUAI: Poipu Shopping Village Grand Hyatt Kauai BIG ISLAND OF HAWAII: Kona Marketplace Kings’ Shops Hilton Waikoloa Village NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINES: Pride of America BOSTON: Natick Collection Northshore Mall CHICAGO: Oakbrook Center Woodfield Mall DALLAS: NorthPark Center DENVER: Cherry Creek Shopping Center LOS ANGELES: Glendale Galleria Northridge Fashion Center NEW YORK: Roosevelt Field ORLANDO: The Mall at Millenia PHILADELPHIA: The Plaza at King of Prussia PLEASANTON: Stoneridge Mall PORTLAND: Washington Square SAN DIEGO: Fashion Valley Horton Plaza SAN FRANCISCO: Pier 39 SAN JOSE: Valley Fair SEATTLE: Bellevue Square WASHINGTON, D.C.: Tysons Corner Center

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MARCH 2010 37goods 1. FRAME JOB The Vizit digital picture frame is just like its wood counterpart, except that it holds hundreds of pictures, connects to the internet and allows you to send and receive photos with its 10.4-inch LCD touch screen. Picture that. $280 / isabellaproducts.com 2. TRAINING DAY Wearing the Adidas miCoach is like having a personal trainer in your ear. The system consists of three sensors and a pair of headphones that provide workout instructions based on measurements of your vital signs. Best of all, it never yells. $120 / adidas.com 3. JUST DROP IT The Exilim EX-G1 is made for those who put digital cameras through it all. You can drop it, get it wet or bury it in a pile of sand without worrying, or so Casio claims. / $300 / casio.com 4. TIME AFTER TIME Designed speciﬁcally for travelers, the TX Airport Lounge watch hops time zones without missing a beat. Unfortunately, it can’t guarantee the same for its owner. $490 / watchismo.com 3 4 2 1

From there, walk to the spectacular Main Tower (Neue Mainzer Straße 52-58; maintower.de) and take the elevator to the 54th-ﬂoor viewing terrace. Comprising two towers, one round, one square, it’s the fourth-highest skyscraper in “Mainhattan” and proof that all architects once played with Legos. (0:35)

Hop back on the U-bahn to Römerberg. Now you’re in medieval Europe—kind of. Stroll along the city square’s picturesque half-timbered buildings and stop in at Dom Sankt Bartholomäus (Domplatz 14; dom-frankfurt.de), where emperors were crowned during the Holy Roman Empire. Fascinating history, but you’re getting hungry. (2:31)

Time for Mittagessen. Steps away from Frankfurt’s shopping mile is the delightful Kleinmarkthalle (Hasengasse 5–7; kleinmarkthalle.de), a teeming indoor market where every sign, jar and display is a curiosity. Grab a bite at Metzgerei Schreiber—word is, their wurst is the best. ( 3:04 )

BOARDING PASS Fly United to Frankfurt, and take in the Goethe House EuropeanthisotherInstituteStadelMuseum,Artandsitesincharmingculturalcenter.Gettherewithease,nonstop,fromChicago,D.C.orSanFrancisco.

Cross the Eiserner Steg, a 19th century Fußgängerbrücke—errr, footbridge—and you’re on the museum embankment, where you could take in Old Masters (Städel Museum), old furniture (Museum of Applied Arts) and old stamps (Museum of Communication). But time is short, so pick one and get moving. (4:41)

Your sprint through Frankfurt starts by taking the S-bahn to Taunusanlage. (Say that ﬁve times fast.)

TransparentFragmentBag, made from the exhibition banners that hang on the MMK façade. (3:48)

Conclude your jaunt with a glass of Apfelwein, Frankfurt’s famous hard apple cider. Take the charming back streets to Lorsbacher Thal (Große Rittergasse 49-51; lorsbacher-thal.de), which has been making the fruity libation since 1803. While there, be sure to order a side of Bratkartoffeln. Can’t pronounce it? Hope your hosts studied English and ask for “hot delicious potatoes.” (5:00)

Descend from the clouds and walk over to the Alte Oper (1 Opernplatz; alteoper.de). Its roof was destroyed in World War II, but the building reopened in 1981 with a Renaissance façade that’s faithful to the original. Have a coffee in Cafe Rosso and imagine opening night 1880: Don Giovanni. (1:10)

Take the U-bahn to Bornheim, a hip shopping district and the only part of Frankfurt to survive WWII intact. Stroll Berger Straße toward Merianplatz; at Gate 05 (Berger Straße 46; gate05.de), stock up on the travel accessories you forgot to pack (a travel-size tube of Zahnpasta, perhaps?). (2:02)

For more than three decades, husband and wife Bernd and Hilla Becher photographed German water towers, lime kilns and blast furnaces. Their obsession has a home at the Museum für Moderne Kunst (Domstraße 10; mmk-frankfurt.de), which also includes works by German provocateur Joseph Beuys and his student Blinky Palermo. On your way out, hit the gift shop for a one-off

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IF HE WEREN’T DOING THIS... • Martin had a successful career in sports marketing before crossing over into nonproﬁt work.

// PHOTOGRAPH BY

• To foster conﬁdence and teamwork by exposing city children to motor sports (using half-size stock cars called Super Mini Cups). “Not all kids can slam dunk a basketball or run a four-point-two-second forty,” Martin says. “But they can race cars and work on a racing team, so they can be part of something.” His Urban Youth Racing School offers afternoon programs and a summer camp that help keep kids in Philadelphia’s and Washington, D.C.’s roughest neighborhoods out of harm’s way. “We’ve had kids who were on the verge of dropping out of high school, and we pulled them back from that,” he says. “Some of them have stuck with it and now work on professional racing teams.”

Accelerated Learning MARCH 2010 | UNITED.COM

BY LAYLA SCHLACK JARED CASTALDI

“All kids love cars,” he says.

40 hero WHO • ANTHONY MARTIN, 45 MISSION

MOTIVATION • “Growing up in Southwest Philly, in the ’hood, as we say, I had people who helped me out,” Martin explains. “I wanted to give back to the community after I made it out.” Martin, who previously founded the Philadelphia Youth Recreation Association, chose to focus on racing primarily because it was something city kids wouldn’t have access to otherwise.

Among his achievements: patenting the gold-tipped shoelace and breaking the world jumping jacks record, twice. Learn more about him and his organization at urbanyouthracingschool.com Anthony Martin’s Urban Youth Racing School puts at-risk children in the driver’s seat.

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAR CH 2010 43culture ART & COMMERCE DAVIESROGERBYPHOTOGRAPH

style WHEN CHICAGO-BORN DESIGNER Cynthia Rowley presented her spring 2010 runway collection, critics couldn’t help but notice that the winsome frocks she sent down the catwalk weren’t exactly your grandma’s tea dresses. With hues straight out of a box of watercolors, the dresses had a feminine touch, but they were anything but girly. The hard little details in black remind you that Rowley is a tomboy at heart. In fact, her menswear line earned a nod from the prestigious Council of Fashion Designers of America. Says the designer, who loves chasing waves in Montauk, Long Island, as much as she adores peacocking down Manhattan’s fashionable Bleecker Street near her ﬂagship boutique, “I like to balance pretty with an edge.” It’s a look that’s earned her collaborations with Target (she was the ﬁrst major designer to team up with the megastore) and Roxy, the funky surfwear brand. Now, the talented thrill-seeker is hooking up with United to design new uniforms, which will be seen on that other type of runway starting in September. Working with the airline has her beaming with hometown pride. “As the saying goes, you can take the girl out of the Midwest, but you can’t take the Midwest out of the girl. I still like to go back to my Chicago roots, which made it even more fun to collaborate on a project with United.”

UniformEverythingKeepingDesignerCynthiaRowleycooksupachicnewlookforUnitedemployees.

44 MARCH 2010 | UNITED .COM print

MR. HOSPITALITY

BY LAYLA SCHLACK BY ALLISON DINNER

it off. The women didn’t know what else to do with centuries of family history in the form of Chippendale sofas and cut-glass salt dishes. Her forebears, many of whom served in the military, had picked up pieces in far-flung locations. Some items dated to the 17th century, when her ancestors first came to North America. When it came time to type up the auction catalog, an appraiser had questions about the provenance of all that furniture and bric-a-brac. For instance, did the piece her family called “the George Washington chair” ever actually belong to the first president? Tracy investigated, digging through historical society records in southern MOST OF US ARE surrounded by so much clutter that a book about someone else’s junk sounds, frankly, a little silly. (Where would we even put it?) But Lisa Tracy’s Objects of Our Affection goes beyond the belongings themselves into their history, which is where she found real“Theworth.impetus for the book was to discover why we hold on to this stuff,” Tracy says. “I mean, Americans are spending about twelve billion dollars annually on storage facilities.” Tracy and her sister contributed to that total for years, paying hundreds of dollars a month to store family furniture. About 10 years after their mother’s death, they decided to auction New Jersey and Philadelphia, and ultimately found ties to Washington. She took a similar approach to other items, uncovering the fascinating backgrounds of everything from a pair of antique dueling pistols to a set of CantonEverychina.piecehad a story to tell. But the real takeaway was a new perspective on her own belongings, including those heirlooms she held on to. “At this point, I could really let go of it all,” she says. “We love our stuff, but I think what we really love is the stories behind it.” Take heed as you start your spring cleaning.

Antique Roadshow

It wasn’t until her late mother’s heirloom furniture and china were on the auction block that author Lisa Tracy realized their real value—and made her peace with letting go.

A new book remembers business pioneer Fred Harvey. Long before Starbucks, McDonald’s and Marriott Hotels, a dapper Englishman named Fred Harvey invented the modern hospitality industry. Starting with a chain of restaurants serving the Santa Fe Railway in the 1880s, he created the ﬁrst national brand, a sprawling empire spreading from Chicago to California. As author Stephen Fried writes in his absorbing biography, Appetite for America—which comes with recipes, including the tempting Butterscotch Pie Chantilly—he helped settle the American West along the way.

Associate editor LAYLA SCHLACK stores her parents’ old furniture in her living room.

// PHOTOGRAPH

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BY K. LEANDER WILLIAMS BY SEAN MCCABE

The album’s epic centerpiece, “March to Battle (Across the Rio Grande),” combines thundering Irish martial rhythms with narration by Northern Ireland–born actor Liam Neeson, who saw cinematic potential in the story of the forgotten ﬁghters. Moloney laughs while remembering Neeson’s rather pointed comment during the recording process: “‘If you ever want to turn this into a movie,’ he told me, ‘count me in.’”

Border Crossing

sound MARCH 2010 | UNITED .COM

“Everything we’ve done has a connection to the heritage of the Irish people,” says Paddy Moloney. “We never really depart from that.”

// ILLUSTRATION

K. LEANDER WILLIAMS likes his corned beef with a smidge of pico de gallo. Irish music legends The Chieftains spice up their sound with a trip to Mexico.

The album blends the two cultures, bringing the Chieftains’ style to traditional songs the San Patricios might have heard. In addition to Mexican stars such as Los Tigres del Norte, Lila Downs and Mariachi Santa Fe de Jesus Guzman, the album features Linda Ronstadt (whose father is Mexican) and guitarist-producer Ry Cooder, a friend and longtime collaborator whose original song, “The Sands of Mexico,” ﬁts nicely with excavated tunes such as “El Chivo” and “Persecucíon de Villa.” “Some pieces sound like our own Irish folk dances,” says Moloney, astonished by the similarities.

THE CHIEFTAINS TEND to make friends wherever they go. In a career that now spans 48 years, Ireland’s premier traditional band has not only exported the folk songs of the Emerald Isle all over the world, it has jammed with everyone from Van Morrison and Elvis Costello to a who’s who of like-minded musicians from Nashville, Cuba and around the

“Everythingglobe.we’ve done has a connection to the heritage of the Irish people, though,” says Paddy Moloney, the four-piece band’s piper, accordionist and cofounder. “We never really depart from who and what we are.”

The story behind the music on San Patricio, the Chieftains’ new album, is a case in point. A mix of traditional Mexican dances and ballads featuring numerous Mexican collaborators, the record is a tribute to the St. Patrick’s Battalion, a group of mid-19th century European conscripts (many of them Irish) who deserted the U.S. Army to ﬁght for Mexico during the MexicanAmerican War. When America won the war, grabbing Texas in the process, many San Patricios were tried as traitors. But the battalion has long been lionized in Mexico. “Back in 1997, the Mexican government issued a postage stamp commemorating them,” Moloney explains. “And one of the places we recorded is a convent in the town of Churubusco, where a battle was fought. It’s now a museum, and we were able to play with Banda de Gaitas del Batallón de San Patricio, the military pipe band that’s in residence there.”

Bryan Cranston, the star of AMC’s Breaking Bad, has won two Emmys in the show’s ﬁrst two seasons. Can he go three for three? //

Break Out 48 AMCOFJACOBS/COURTESYLEWISBYPHOTOGRAPH

BY ADAM K. RAYMOND

AFTER SEVEN YEARS as the lovably loony dad on Malcolm in the Middle, 53-yearold actor Bryan Cranston wanted to try something a little different. Walter White, his character on AMC’s Breaking Bad, is a lot different. A frazzled chemistry teacher who begins selling illegal drugs after a cancer diagnosis, White has allowed Cranston to display his acting chops in ways Malcolm’s dad, Hal, never did—for instance, traipsing naked through a supermarket. Give that man another Emmy!

vision

“It’s never been done on TV: Start a series with a milquetoast character and take him on a journel that turns him into a tremendously bad guy.”

Associate editor ADAM K. RAYMOND always wears clothes to the supermarket.

Cable seems to have a fondness for shows about suburban folks with a secret dark side, like The Sopranos, Weeds, Dexter, Hung. What’s the appeal? Networks realize that there are a lot of distractions out there, and in order to get someone’s attention you need a dynamic, compelling story that grabs people and doesn’t let them go. People relate to the imperfection of the regular guy. I think it’s what makes the show human. Have you ever been forced to make decisions like Walter? Fortunately, no. I can’t imagine living with that kind of pressure. In some ways I do because I play the guy, but I have a whole ritual where I go into my trailer, wash him off and turn back into Bryan Cranston.

CULTURE | MARCH 2010

So Walter is only going to get worse in season three? Yeah. In season one we explored a choice Walter made in a desperate condition. Season two exposed the ramifications of that choice. And in season three, we find out what happens when his secret is exposed. Which is? All hell breaks loose. Not quite Malcolm in the Middle. You know, after I finished seven years of Malcolm I rejected a couple roles that would have been carbon copies of Hal. I don’t know if I can do a goofy dad any differently than I already did. And you landed a role that won you some serious recognition. Like two Emmys. Yeah, that part has been wonderful. But you can’t anticipate that. You just have to find work that brings you joy and hope success comes your way.

49 Breaking Bad’s premise is so strange. What did you think when you ﬁrst saw the script? I was knocked out. I thought every actor I knew was going to be dying to play this role. You didn’t think it was too bizarre? No, because I knew where it was going from the beginning. Everyone else saw “high school chemistry teach turns into drug dealer” and thought it was ridiculous, but I knew [creator] Vince Gilligan wanted to do something that’s never been done on TV: start a series with a mild-mannered milquetoast lead character and take him on a journey that turns him into a tremendously bad guy.

50 wheels MARCH 2010 | UNITED.COM

AMERICANORTHROVERLANDOFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPHS

IT MAY SEEM OBVIOUS, but it’s always bugged me: Luxury SUVs are too expensive to risk taking off-road, where they perform best. Take the Range Rover Sport, a fantastic off-road vehicle that only a complete wastrel would actually take off-road—unless he was being chased by molten lava. In 3-D. Luckily, the 2010 model I’m driving in the Green Mountains of Vermont doesn’t belong to me (though I know it costs $94,275, plus tax). It was loaned to me by the company, and the publicist warned me to please refrain from taking it off-road. At ﬁrst, I was happy to oblige. I love the way the Range Rover feels on tarmac, and it has a timeless look: The soft leather seats and wood paneling give it a luxurious, rustic feel, and the “Range Rover” letters above the grille might as well say “I’m Classy.”

When you own an expensive, sophisticated four-wheel drive like the supercharged 2010 Range Rover Sport, you tend to coddle the thing. Fortunately, we’re just borrowing it.

its tires, its driver looks at me with astonishment.Fortunately, the Rover emerged from the woods unscathed. But it goes without saying: Even if you live in a Beverly Hills mansion, don’t try this at home.

I’m looking at the Dynamic Control switch at the head of a trail in Vermont when I succumb to a sudden urge. I switch to Offroad, turn onto a muddy, rocky, root-strewn pathway and goose the throttle. The Rover, on 20-inch tires, is stable in the roughest spots. When I pass an old Jeep CJ-5 (what a Vermonter would call a “mudder”) spinning

What pleases me more, though, is the seriously upgraded engine, which sits on a sophisticated suspension system that the driver can convert to “Offroad” settings with a ﬂick of a switch (the Rovers are so popular in the Middle East that there’s a new traction control setting to “launch” the SUV on sand).

Executive editor MIKE GUY’s other car is a pair of Tevas.

Free Range

42 3 1 2 3 4 1

OFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPHS

510-horsepowersuperchargedV-8grindsout410pound-feetoftorque. The technology,SystemDynamicuses“predictive”so it knows what you’re going to do wrong before you do it. camerasSurroundoffer a 360-degree view of the exterior, so you don’t crush your neighbor’s car trying parallel-park.to LED oncominggrowheadlightsdimmerastheysensetrafﬁc,thenbrightenagainwhenitpasses.Brilliant.

// BY MIKE GUY

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Roberto Cavalli’s women’s line, which showed last month in Milan, will be available in stores this summer.

CULTURE | MARCH 2010

CAVALLIROBERTOOFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPH 53

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“I also love to be at home in Italy and go to Just Cavalli Café. I personally chose the menu, so naturally I’m a fan.”

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“I HAVE MANY beautiful memories of my summer holidays in the Greek Islands. In August, the sky is full of stars. I remember gazing up at them, thinking about how human beings, even with all the great accomplishments we can achieve, are so small in comparison to the vast universe out there. It’s very emotional.

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WITH MARCH MADNESS fast approaching, I must make a painful, soul-bearing confession. It’s long overdue, more overdue even than Mark McGwire’s steroids mea culpa, so I may as well just get it out there: I cannot shoot a basketball. Let me amend that. Technically, I can shoot a basketball. I have “played” the sport—or at least something resembling it—since I was young. I even ably warmed the bench for the high school junior varsity. To this day, I occasionally play pickup games with other ﬂabby office drones. Running up and down the court, there are moments when I actually delude myself that I know what I’mAnddoing.then I shoot the ball, and it horriﬁes people. Remember that episode of Seinfeld in which Elaine danced at a party, and everyone recoiled in fear? That’s what my basketball shot is like. It

After more than 30 years of tossing bricks, a hoops fanatic ﬁnally learns how to shoot a basketball. JASON GAY BY BARRY BLITT sports

Go Ahead and Jump

CULTURE | MARCH 2010 55

// ILLUSTRATION

disturbs humanity. When I grab the ball and heave it toward the hoop, players on both sides look it me aghast with a mixture of fright and pity. I know I’m not alone in this affliction. One of the most popular grievances with the current college and pro game is the deterioration of shooting. Fans complain that players don’t have the touch that they once did, that the game exists too much above the rim, that shooting fundamentals aren’t prioritized like suffocating defenses. This is not merely the groaning of nostalgic cranks. For every pure jump-shot artist, like Boston’s Ray Allen or Golden State’s Stephen Curry, there is a legion of brick tossers barely competent from more than 12 feet out. It’s one of the things that invariably makes me nuts during the NCAA tournament. Yes, it’s a thrilling sports event. But there are always long stretches of blundering offensive play when I wonder if the battered rim should file for workmen’s comp. Of course, I’m one to talk. My own basketball shot is ugly and artless, devoid of grace or technique. Summon an image of a classic jump-shooter—Larry Bird, say, or Reggie Miller. Then imagine the total, ham-handed opposite. I grip the ball with 10 fingers tightly, cock it violently behind my head like a backhoe, and then hurl it like I’m throwing a burning log out of a car window. The ugliness would be tolerated if my shot were accurate. But it is not. It’s not even close. My spinless knuckleball usually clangs off the rim violently. Even the backboard laughs. Not long ago, I was staying at a hotel with a spiffy basement court, and I thought it would be fun to try free throws. I went three for 25, which means I should be fired from playing pickup ball—or signed by the New Jersey Nets.

We’re going to work on form without a ball. This is like arriving at a steak house and being told you will have 20 minutes of knife-and-fork practice. But Jim is a lot bigger than me, so I go along. The main thing people ignore about shooting, Jim says, is their legs. I must bend my legs, and use them as a launchpad, he says. Jim then takes my right arm (I’m a righty) and bends the elbow into a sharp L. He puts an imaginary ball on my ﬁngertips and bends my wrist. “Knees, elbows, wrists,” Jim says. “Repeat that: Knees, elbows, wrists.”

Less than one hour of practice, and I’m already better at free throws than a guy who’s made more than $250 million playing ball. dramaticallyhasBasketballevolved since the game was invented in 1891, thanks, in large part, to signaturelegendsthreeandtheirshots.

“GRANNY SHOT” HOMER STONEBRAKER 1919 “SKY HOOK” KAREEM ABDULJABBAR 1969 “SPACE JAM” MICHAEL JORDAN 1984 ASHLEYAARONBYILLUSTRATIONS

BIG SHOTS

MARCH 2010 | UNITED .COM 56 sports

I do this three-bend drill for about three minutes on an empty court, looking like a reject from community ballet. The kids playing next door are thoroughly confused as to what I’m doing. Then Jim allows me to hold a real basketball. He shows me how to use my left hand as a guide—not an accomplice, the way I used to do with my knuckleball shot. He has me lie down on a bench with the ball and practice spinning it off my ﬁngertips in the air, getting that pretty backspin. Finally he brings me to the court and lets me start practicing on a real hoop. From two feet away.

My terrorshot is a source of great shame for me. It makes me embarrassed to play a sport that I love. Sometimes I try to play without shooting, and for a while it goes well—I stick to rebounds and passing, and my teammates think I’m a generous guy. But I can never totally escape my hideous shot. Every so often I ﬁnd myself with an open look at the basket, and I have no choice but to launch it, praying only that it stays in the gym and that I do not maim anyone for life. So I’ve decided to get my shot ﬁxed. It’s a weird, difficult thing to try to relearn in your late 30s. Most people are taught how to shoot a basketball when they’re very young, around the time they learn how to ride a bike, how to swim and how to play No-Limit Texas Hold ’Em (or was that just me?). But you’re never too old to learn, I say. At my age people think nothing of taking a golf lesson from a swing coach or getting one of those private sessions with a Pilates instructor. If I can learn French wine and how to julienne vegetables like a proper bourgeois sophisticate, why can’t I reteach myself how to shoot a basketball? So I get in touch with Jim Murray, a hoops maestro at New York’s Chelsea Piers gym, and we meet on a cold Monday afternoon. Jim, who played Division III hoops and whose father is still a basketball coach, begins by telling me we aren’t going to need a ball for a while.

Contributing writer JASON GAY switched to playing squash in high school, and he wasn’t any good at that, either.

Jim admits he doesn’t usually get clients like me. Mostly he teaches school-age kids. Adults don’t usually have the hours for daytime lessons, and when they get out of work, it’s easier to ﬁnd a league or a pickup game. Over time, bad habits worsten. It’s rare that the freaks like me seek help. But now I’m really starting to stroke it. I’m back at the foul line, and by Jim’s count I’m hitting somewhere between 60 and 70 percent of my shots—not quite Ray Allen, but a lot better than Shaquille O’Neal, whose lifetime free-throw percentage hovers around 50. Less than one hour of practice, and I’m already better at free throws than a guy who’s made more than $250 million playing“You’llball.be teaching the lessons next year,” Jim says. Yes, I’m sure he says that to everybody.Onmyway out of the gym, I’m hot and sweaty, so I buy a sports drink. As I gulp it down, I think about the art of shooting and how it’s never too late to master it, how even some pros could use a tutorial like this. I am renewed with enthusiasm for the NBA season, March Madness and basketball in general. Then I toss the empty bottle toward a trash can and miss by a mile.

“Larry Bird used to come out and shoot two- to three hundred of these before every game,” he says. I surely look silly, but it’s working. The ball leaves my ﬁngers with an elegant rotation, and more often than not it goes in. Jim asks me to step back another two feet and shoot some more. More swishes. I notice I’m getting those “shooter’s rolls,” too—those misﬁres where the spin is gentle enough that the ball rolls off the lip of the rim and into the hoop. It’s the beginnings of a touch.

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“Technology makes our lives easier in a lot of ways, but exhibitors strongly believe that in-person interaction is essential,” says Tara Dunion, senior director of communications for the Consumer Electronics Association, the trade organization that puts on CES. But it’s not just exhibitors, it’s business people everywhere. A recent survey of executives by the United States Travel Association found that 28 percent of their business would be lost without in-person meetings. Executives also estimate that face-to-face meetings convert 40 percent of potential customers into actual customers, while meetings conducted electronically convert only 16 percent.

Conventional Wisdom Even at the Consumer Electronics Show, the annual high-tech powwow, business is done the old-fashioned way: pressing the ﬂesh. BY ADAM K. RAYMOND BY CRUSH

EARLY IN JANUARY, hordes of giddy technophiles arrived at the Consumer Electronics Show (CES) in Las Vegas to gawk at more than 20,000 cutting-edge gadgets (think Winnebago-size TVs) and, perhaps more importantly, to meet people. In an effort to make networking a little easier and a little more innovative, the organizers of CES provided all attendees with a magical plastic card with their name on the front and a magnetic strip on the back. Its purpose: to relay, with a simple swipe, one’s vital details—name, address, hat size—to the occupants of booths touting cell phones, vacuums and cell phone vacuums. At least that was the idea. “I don’t know what to do with it,” says the woman working a booth for one of the many e-readers introduced at the show. “Do you have a business card?” She’s wasn’t alone. For all the interest in innovation among the 120,000 buyers, sellers and just plain curious, few in the crowd seemed willing to abandon their three-by-two-and-a-halfinch rectangles of card stock, slinging business cards rather than exchanging digits, um, digitally. No matter that the gadgets on display include countless devices that supposedly allow users to collaborate from opposite ends of the globe via videoconferencing, virtual whiteboards and real-time document editing. CES itself is based on a time-honored model, virtually indistinguishable from trade shows that ﬁlled the Las Vegas Convention Center when it arrived in the desert in 1959. Ironic as it may sound, even technology’s top evangelists prefer tried-and-true methods when it comes to accomplishing their business goals.

“It’s extremely beneﬁcial to shake someone’s hand and to look them in the eye,” Dunion says. That’s especially true at CES, where the average attendee holds 12 business meetings during each show. After all, are buyers more likely to carry your robot dog after receiving a press release or watching it e-bark?

// ILLUSTRATION

“You don’t know what you have until you get your product in front of people,” says Kinesis Industries president Tod Wagenhals, who attended the convention for the ﬁrst time last year. He came to show off a prototype of the K3, a wind-and solar-powered portable electronic device charger. With its twoinch fan blade, the contraption looks more like something meant to keep you cool than power up your phone. But plug into one of its ports, and one thing is clear: If you’re ever stuck in the desert

CULTURE | MARCH 2010 industry

“The sheer number of people gives our products enormous exposure,” she says. “It’s integral to our business.”

Melanie Pearson, the owner of Liquid Image, a company that manufactures scuba, snorkeling and ski masks with built-in video cameras, is making her third visit to CES. The reason she keeps returning is simple: the crowds.

“These aren’t the reactions you could get from having people watch videos or look at pictures,” he says. “People need to hold it, touch it, feel it.”

This year, Wagenhals is back with an improved product. Rather than soliciting feedback, he’s cutting deals.

“We’re not at a point where we’re going to substitute for the tactile,” says David Hsieh, Cisco’s VP for marketing and emerging technologies. “It’s much more about having an increasingly blended experience.” What that experience will look like decades hence remains unclear. One thing, however, is certain—it will almost deﬁnitely involve business cards. At his next trade show, associate editor ADAM K. RAYMOND will wear more sensible shoes.

60 with a dead cell phone, this is the device you’ll want (just watch those roaming charges).Wagenhals left CES 2009 with a long list of suggestions from attendees—make it lighter, add more connection ports— and changed the device accordingly.

The biggest draws and most buzzedabout gadgets at this year’s show included the technologically impressive (a laptop with a transparent monitor, super-light tablet notebooks) and the simply bizarre (a blob of slime used to clean keyboards, a 19-inch highdeﬁnition television inside of a stuffed polar bear). But the products that drew the longest lines and loudest chatter were the 3-D TVs. Some of the credit for the fervor probably belongs to James Cameron’s Avatar, which had been in theaters for a few weeks at the time of the show.

Given the demographics of the CES crowd (young, male, nerdy) it was hard to imagine that anyone there hadn’t seen the movie, twice. And by the looks of the TV companies’ overflowing booths, they were eager for more. It took much patient waiting and, when the time was right, aggressive jostling to snag a pair of the glasses needed to partake in the 3-D experience (warning: watching without glasses may cause vertigo). Once the specs were on, it was finally possible to see what the fuss was about. Images popped out of the TV so convincingly that the occasional viewer would reach out and try to grab them. It didn’t work. But for all the splendor of the third dimension, the typical color, sharpness and eye-popping clarity we’ve come to expect from 21st century TVs were mostly lost. Still, the eager crowds didn’t thin out for the entire four-day festival. They devoured the 3-D TVs, just as they fiddled endlessly with the digital cameras and pounded mercilessly on the fancyThekeyboards.insistence on touching and tinkering made it clear that there’s really no substitute for being there. Even the companies whose products attempt to make being there unnecessary, like Cisco’s videoconferencing software TelePresence, recognize that nothing can replace the power of touch.

MARCH 2010 | UNITED .COM

IMAGESSULLIVAN/GETTYJUSTINBYPHOTOGRAPH

Liquid Image introduced its ﬁrst camera-equipped goggles at CES 2008. Pearson says the ability to show off the product to buyers, distributors and press led to more than a million dollars in sales in the ﬁrst year. “We started from scratch and instantaneously had orders,” she says. Sales more than doubled after CES 2009 and if all goes as planned, they’ll triple in 2010. “There was no way to do what we did without CES,” Pearson says. Don’t be fooled though; CES isn’t just about business. Remember the sensory overload and subsequent glee of walking into the carnival? That’s what CES is like, except Whac-a-Mole has been replaced by Halo, and six-year-olds in chocolate-stained overalls by 36-yearolds in chocolate-stained overalls.

LOOKING GOOD Testing 3-D glasses at the Panasonic booth

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A study published by The New England Journal of Medicine found that as many as 92,000 deaths could be prevented each year if we simply lowered our salt intake by just over half a teaspoon per day.

GENERALLY SPEAKING, less thought goes into salt than into the shakers used to dispense it. That is, except when the seasoning is under assault, as it were, by health advocates, who remind us that too much sodium can lead to high blood pressure, which leads to increased incidence of heart attacks and strokes.

’Tis the Seasoning

A new breed of artisanal salt makers are shaking up everyone’s go-to ﬂavor enhancer.

New York mayor Michael Bloomberg recently began an anti-salt initiative designed to cut sodium intake by 25 percent over the next ﬁve years, and California and the federal government are considering similar measures.

BY SALMA ABDELNOUR // PHOTOGRAPHS BY CLAIRE BENOIST FLEUR DE SEL MALDON SEA SALT SEL DE GUERANDE HIMALAYAN PINK SALT SEA SALT WITH TRUFFLE EURASIAN BLACK SALT HAWAIIAN RED SALT SMOKED SALT MARCH 2010 | UNITED .COM 62 food & drink

The good news for the crystal crowd is that not all salts are created equal, so rather than simply pouring it on, diners are increasingly training their palates to appreciate the nuanced flavors that artisanal salts bring to food and moderating their intake in the process. Certain kinds of fleur de sel, a sea salt from France’s Brittany coast, for example, have a subtly seaweedy taste, while some black salts confer a pleasantly eggy, sulfurous note. Maldon sea salt from Essex, England, comes in big white flakes that add a distinct crunchy texture. And Himalayan pink salt consists of tiny crystals that dissolve more easily into food. Other salts are smoked over various kinds of wood, mixed with spices, or spiked with other ingredients such as white truffles or hot

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“Now people are becoming much more educated and even more interested.” But the increasing demand can present a challenge, Novotny points out, since many specialized salts undergo delicate harvesting processes that are subject to climate conditions. For instance, to gather France’s fleur de sel—one of SaltWorks’ top sellers—harvesters begin by channeling the Atlantic waters into clay-lined salt ponds where, if sun and wind conditions are favorable, the minerals form salt crystals on the surface. The crystals are then raked by hand off the top. This is the first year, after a two-year weather hiatus, that newly harvested fleur de sel is on the market, says Novotny. Regular table salt, by contrast, is collected from subterranean salt mines—which are found worldwide— or harvested by drilling deep wells underground. The salt crystals are then processed to remove trace minerals and dried out to eliminate cakiness. But though it’s plentiful and inexpensive, regular salt doesn’t bring the flavor subtleties or the added texture many chefs and ambitious cooks increasingly crave.

peppers to add more assertive flavor. The majority of exotic salts are used in professional kitchens, where they’re finding their way into everything from hors d’oeuvres to desserts. But home cooks are adopting the trend as well. Take a glance at the spice aisle at any local gourmet shop, and you’ll find that those old cylindrical boxes of table salt—the ones with the girl holding the umbrella with the mysterious rubric, “When it rains, it pours”—are no longer monopolizing the salt section. Instead, sea salts from Greece and France, among other places, are in ever-greater supply, along with row after row of other artisanal salts hailing from every corner of the planet and every point on the color

THE GRIND What’s the point of fancy sodium chloride if you’re using a boring shaker? These upgrades are worth their salt. When shaking and grinding is too strenuous, a salt cellar and a serving spoon indispensible.are amazon.com Sometimes salt is so fancy it comes in rock form. That’s when you need a grater. Just watch the knuckles. microplane.com

SaltWorks,wheel.acompany based in Woodinville, Washington, and specializing in imported salts from around the world, has seen annual growth ranging from 30 to 50 percent over the past few years, says president Naomi Novotny. The company, which launched in 2001 and moves upward of 25 million pounds of salt per year, now sources more than 50 varieties from 20 countries—everything from Bolivian rose salt from the Andes mountains to black lava salt from Cyprus. “When we ﬁrst started nine years ago, people were getting interested in gourmet salts because they were new” to the market, Novotny explains.

64 food & drink MARCH 2010 | UNITED.COM

“With Maldon salt you get not only the salt hit but the texture too,” notes Australian celebrity chef Pete Evans, who owns six restaurants in Sydney and Melbourne and appears regularly on television in Australia and stateside. “The thing about it is that it’s a nice way to ﬁnish off a dish, but people can be heavy-handed with it, so you have to be careful,” he notes. Evans makes an impressive three-minute crudo by cutting raw sushi-grade scallops into thin slices

Though regular salt is plentiful, it doesn’t bring the ﬂavor subtleties or added texture that many of today’s chefs and ambitious cooks crave. Leave it Scandinaviansto to design a salt mill that looks like a piece of modern art. dwr.com

Lately, chef Matthew Accarrino of the acclaimed Italian restaurant SPQR in San Francisco is partial to salt smoked over applewood. “I love it because the flavor is so intense,” says Accarino, who uses it to top off his spiced ricotta fritters. For home cooks, he suggests adding a dash of smoked salt to give a quick, flavorful finish to grilled fish, meat or chicken.

At Boulder’s renowned Frasca Food and Wine, chef Lachlan MackinnonPatterson likes Murray River salt from Australia because its fine flakes dissolve quickly, letting the flavor of seafood shine through with no salty aftertaste. He uses it in his hamachi crudo, a sashimi-like seafood dish he makes with thinly sliced raw hamachi (or another high-grade fish) and seasons with black pepper, lemon juice, extra virgin olive oil and that Australian salt. For home cooks, he recommends making an easy party canapé by dipping apples or apple slices into caramel and sprinkling them with Murray River salt. Chef Mikey Price of New York City’s Market Table, a West Village restaurant that’s jammed nightly thanks to its ingenious twists on comfort food, favors flaky, coarse Maldon salt from England. He sprinkles it on his appetizer of hush puppies with cloverhoney butter, to create a sweet-salty contrast and extra crunch.

SALT CELLAR SALT GRATERSALT MILL

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New York–based food writer SALMA ABDELNOUR probably takes too many things with a grain of salt.

Chefs are also playing around with blended salts, which are mixed with other ingredients to create added layers of ﬂavor.

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Chris Santos, a star on the Food Network’s Chopped series and chefowner of The Stanton Social in New York City, makes a fantastic jalapeño salt that he uses to add a spicy kick to grilled vegetables, pastas or burgers, or for lining the rim of margarita glasses.

Fada of Manhattan’s SD26 likes to top some ﬁsh dishes with a Sicilian citrus-spiked salt, made with bits of orange, bergamot and lemon. She also sprinkles seaweedstudded salt from Italy’s Adriatic coast on her sea bass poached in ﬁsh broth. When she uses that briny, fragrant Adriatic salt, says Fada, “It’s just like walking outside and smelling the breeze from the Whateversea.”your personal taste in salt, though, just remember, go easy.

Sometimes salt choices reveal hints of patriotism or nostalgia. In New York, Italian-born chefs Odette Fada of the new SD26 and Cesare Casella of Salumeria Rosi Parmacotto opt for sea salt from Trapani, a ﬁshing town on the western coast of Sicily. “I’m Italian; I want to use Italian!” says Fada. “For thirty years I’ve been cooking with that salt.” Casella uses organic soffi di sale (which means “whiffs of salt”) from Trapani in his seven-bean salad and pork belly with dandelion greens. He also sells it at his restaurant, which doubles as an epicurean shop.

(The salt is easily replicated at home: Just mix one cup of kosher or sea salt with a half-cup of jalapeno powder and an eighth-cup of sugar.)

EARTHEN MOUNDS Salts hailing from every corner of the planet and every point on the color wheel

and drizzling them with a fruity olive oil and a squirt of lime, then sprinkling shaved lime zest, minced chili peppers, chopped mint and a sprinkle of Maldon salt on Mainetop.chefs Mark Gaier and Clark Frasier of Arrows restaurant and MC Perkins Cove in Ogunquit like what they describe as the “clean, vibrant taste” and the higher iron oxide levels of Hawaiian red sea salt, which gets its color from the clay in the tidal pools where it’s harvested. They use the salt on prosciutto-wrapped melon and mango.

The salt is put on the dishes before bread and butter are served, and Fuller occasionally uses it in other dishes, too.

Seattle chef Mark Fuller of Spring Hill gets his signature salt through a family connection. Fuller’s maternal relatives have been harvesting their pink Kauai Salt Ponds salt for more than four generations on Kauai island in Hawaii—but because of the state’s legal restrictions, salt from familyowned properties can’t be sold in retail shops. “It can only be gifted,” says Fuller. “So they gift it to me, and we use it as a garnish at the restaurant.”

Awards.One-WayAnnouncing

// ILLUSTRATION BY

Please!” Useful

HILFE! Superintendent! German words for when one is trapped in an apartment on the sixth ﬂoor of a creaky, late 19th century building in a sleepy working-class neighborhood of Vienna and trying not to panic. (Much better than what I’d practiced at home: “Haben Sie das in schwarz und klein?” or “Do you have that in black and in small?”) But I’m getting ahead of myself. It was freezing the night I arrived in Vienna. When my cab rolled up to my building the driver turned to me. “Are you sure this is the right address?” he asked. It was true the street felt somehow too dark, too quiet. But what did I know? I’d rented the place sightunseen off Craigslist. The last time I’d booked a place that way I ended up in a For an American expat on her own in Vienna, getting trapped in her room winds up opening more doors than she ever imagined possible.

SCHLUSSEL! HAUSMEISTER! BITTE! “Help! Key!

BY SARAH WILDMAN EMILIANO PONZI

The Great Escape 66

67diary CULTURE | MAR CH 2010

windowless apartment in Paris. If you think it’s impossible to be unhappy in Paris, try sleeping in a closet. It took me several minutes to unload the taxi. I buzzed the intercom and met my lugubrious new roommate, Hilke. “You have more bags with you than clothes that I own,” she said without smiling. I laughed. It’s true, I don’t travel light. In the Madrid airport, a fleet of sleek Europeans wheeling what appeared to be makeup bags that would slide into any overhead had sniffed disapprovingly at my massive duffels. It didn’t bother me; I was staking my claim on the Hilkecity.told me a recent break-up had prompted the reluctant rental of my room; she needed the cash. “He wasn’t experimental enough,” she said sadly, “and that’s very important to me.” I nodded and accepted a cup of chamomile tea. The guy sounded like a real winner, having once left her cooling her heels on a romantic island in Greece where they’d planned to meet for the holidays. It was a lot to share on our first meeting, but I like dishy stories. Then she told me she was famous in certain circles of Vienna for a movie she’d made that sounded not at all suitable for general audiences. I smiled, but I knew we’d slid right by new-girlfriend confidences into a whole other territory. I rued passing up a more expensive apartment with a friendly-sounding translator in a hipper part of town. Too late now. I went to my room. When I emerged in the morning, Hilke was rushing out the door. “I’m sorry,” she said, as she gathered her things, “you can’t shower now.” There was a man working on the bathroom tiles. She said she would be gone all day; naturally, she had no cell phone. With that, the only person I really knew in Vienna vanished. My room, though airy and bright, with large, antique windows, was just off the shower-room, with no external door. I had to walk through the shower to leave—a quirk, needless to say, that went unmentioned in the ad. As in many old buildings in Europe, the toilet was down the corridor. I closed the large red-felt curtain the roommate had kindly hung for my privacy. When the tileman had gone, I walked through the bathroom to exit and found the door stuck shut. I jiggled the handle. A key fell out the other side.

Awards.MilesAnnouncing&Money

The door wasn’t stuck; it was locked. I yelled for help, but the man was gone. I was trapped in my room on the sixth ﬂoor of 38-40 Wallensteinstrasse in the 20th district of Vienna. Outside, tram number ﬁve rumbled and clicked to a stop, over and over. No one looked up at me as I opened the lovely century-old window, leaned out over the rooftops and sought out my new neighbors, in the street below. “Hello! Hello! Yes! You down there!” I tried, foolishly, in English. “I’m, um...Hello! I’m stuck!” No response. I laughed aloud, a little giddy with the ridiculousness of the situation: The last member of my family to live in Vienna had escaped a city teeming with Nazis. Now his granddaughter had returned and couldn’t escape her own bedroom. Plus, she was getting a bit hungry. Outside my window, the air was crisp and wintry. I eyed the electric tram lines, imagining myself rappelling, Jason Bourne–style, to the street. “Help!” I yelled. Three men who worked at the grocery across the street glanced up at me and continued to load their fruit. I doubled back to the bathroom

Outside my window, the air was wintry. I eyed the electric tram lines, imagining myself rappelling, Jason Bourne–style, to the street.

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MARCH CROSSWORD ANSWERS

and, frustrated, kicked the door—hard Wood splinters peeled off, cracks ran the length of the frame; the lock held. I returned to my perch at the window, waving my arms frantically down at the streetEnglishbelow.having failed me, I armed myself with a few choice vocabulary words gleaned from a pocket dictionary. “Bitte hausmeister!” I bellowed conﬁdently. “Hilfe! Hilfe!”

All night long I recounted my dramatic tale of panic and massage oil. The next day, more acquaintances approached me, requesting an encore.

KARACINOVIC ZIVOJIN Walleinsteinstrassemasseur 36.7 1200 Wien te. 0699 11 579 795 Then he left, returning moments later holding what looked like an old bottle of sunscreen. “Baby oil,” he explained, smiling. “Massage now.”

A man named Georg asked me how my ﬁrst day in Vienna had gone, and I let out a sigh. “Frankly?” I replied, “It was terrible!” And I started to tell my story, waving my arms animatedly, sloshing the wine in my glass. “Hilfe! Bitte hausmeister!” I yelled, starting to laugh. And behind him another fellow, a thin man holding a thin, ﬁlterless cigarette, interjected, “Sorry, I couldn’t help but overhear your story...Would you mind telling it again?” So I did. All night long I recounted my dramatic tale of panic and massage oil. The next day, at work, more new acquaintances approached me, laughing, requesting an encore. For weeks people kept asking. “Sarah, Uli never heard the hausmeister story!” And what began as a nightmare became my entrée into a whole new socialStrangely,circle. I never ended up moving out of dour Hilke’s place. Partly it was because those duffels were too heavy. Partly it was because Hilke herself soon became a source of endless cocktail party conversation. A few weeks later she curated an exhibit of art so extreme it would have given Hieronymus Bosch the shakes. My workmates left in disgust, and we laughed about it for days. She and I never did become very close. I did keep the hausmeister’s card, not for the massage but on the off chance I get stuck again. But the truth was I no longer needed it. I had friends to call. In my sheer foreignness, I’d somehow found a home.

68 MARCH 2010 | UNITED .COM diary

SARAH WILDMAN has sworn off roommates but makes an exception for her husband and baby daughter.

A woman and her child looked up. “Sprechen sie Englisch?” I yelled down to her.“Nein,” she called back. But she’d acknowledged me! Suddenly I caught sight of the tileman, my hausmeister, six flights down. He looked up, doffed his cap, and then disappeared back inside. I rushed back to the bathroom door, where I heard shouting. It was the hausmeister, yelling instructions. The only words I understood were “schlussel” and “strasse”—key and street—and then it dawned on me: He wants me to throw keys to the street! I hustled back to the window and hurled them down. A few minutes later, he finally freed me, clucking disapprovingly at the splintered door frame. Then, noting my trembling shoulders, he fished out a business card and handed it to me.

“Nein,” I said. “Nein?” he asked. “Nein.” I conﬁrmed, as I pushed him out theThedoor.whole ordeal had lasted only an hour and a half. It felt more like a year and a half. Deciding I had to move, I called the friendly-sounding translator. Sadly, her room had been rented. So I set out wandering through two districts in search of a new place to stay, slowly calming down as I began to acquaint myself with more picturesque parts of Vienna. That evening I attended a cocktail party for my new job. I arrived and grabbed a glass of white wine. Everyone was chatting amiably, in small groups; the lingua franca was German.

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71 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MARCH 2010 At the Ace—one of more than a dozen new New York City hotels—some suites come with a turntable and record collection. It’s a theme hotel, but there’s nothing cheesy about72it.P. 80 INTELLIGENT DESIGN Central Saint Martins has the best style. By Sarah Horne 86 THREE PERFECT DAYS: AUSTIN The Texas capital is full of quirks. By Mark Healy ILLUSTRATION BY OLIVER JEFFERS 72 SUITE DREAMS A luxury hotel marathon in NYC By Mike Guy FEATURES artifact

BEST NEW HOTEL CROSBY STREET HOTEL // Enter the Crosby’s lobby at your peril; you may never want to leave. This is superior lodging in every way. Upstairs, each room is painstakingly crafted, done up in appealing colors and textures that combine an almost regal superiority with an exquisite sense of comfort. Even the details are enchanting—the extra-wide window sills piled with cushions, Samuel Heath cups, heated towel racks and dressmaker’s mannequins in each room, which might come in handy, as hotel owner and designer Kit Kemp suggests, “for pinning on a brooch.” Good thinking!

DREAMSSUITE IN THE MIDST OF AN ECONOMIC DOWNTURN, NEW YORK CITY’S EVER-BUOYANT TOURISM SECTOR MARCHES ON, WITH 34 NEW HOTELS THIS YEAR AND MORE ON THE WAY. WHICH MEANS IT MIGHT JUST BE THE BEST TIME TO VISIT—IF YOU KNOW WHERE TO STAY. BY MIKE GUY PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOSHUA PAUL 73 JU

OONCEUPONATIME,DELUXEHOTELSINNEWYORKCITY—and much of the world—followed the lead of two lodging lions. There was the Waldorf-Astoria, with its burnished brass, polished marble and presidential pedigree, and then there was The Plaza, that storied Beaux-Arts cornerstone overlooking Central Park, made famous by, among other luminaries, a six-year-old named Eloise. For much of the 20th century, every other luxury hotel in the city aspired to be like these two. Even the regal Pierre (which recently guest-starred in season three of Mad Men), stood in their shadows. But the Plaza closed down in 2005 and reopened under new ownership, with about a third its rooms

MOST SERENE SPA AND SWIMMING POOL THE GREENWICH // This may be DeNiro’s hotel, but the placid subterranean pool, below—warmly lit by authentic Japanese lanterns, with a 250-yearold bamboo overhead—willceilingsoften any tough guy. The ginger and coconut scrub in the Shibui Spa seals the deal.

JEFFERSOLIVERBYILLUSTRATIONS

COOLEST BELLHOPS THE JANE // Friendly examples of a long-lost species (seemingly lifted straight from the set of Barton Fink), these bellhops, below, wear red and gold pillbox hats— complete with chinstrap— and a welcoming smile to match. HIT THE DECK Bowery Hotel’s one-bedroom terrace suite Meanwhile, New York is on a hotel building spree, and where once there were just a handful of elite choices, now there are literally dozens. According to Lodging Econometrics, a company that analyzes hotel trends worldwide, in 2008 and 2009, 59 hotels opened their doors, nearly half of them in the “luxury” category. Which means visitors to the city have more high-end options than ever before, and the competition for bookings is heating up. So in a service to the traveling public, I’ve packed an overnight bag, watered the spider plants in my outer-borough basement apartment and embarked on a luxury hotel marathon, a forced march, if you will, from one swank accommodation to the next. Along with the Crosby Street Hotel, I’ve resolved to check out the Bowery, the Ace, the Jane, the Standard New York, the Thompson LES, the Smyth Tribeca, the Greenwich, the Mark, the MAve, the Vu, the NU and others—all buzzed-about spots and nearly all less than 18 months old. After carefully stocking up on tip money, I enter the sleek Thompson LES. The second-floor lobby bar and outdoor lounge have a serious nightclub vibe. slender cocktail waitresses weave silently among the guests, and thumping dance music is set on infinite repeat. In the room upstairs I find raw concrete ceilings, shiny black floors, semigloss black walls—even some of the mirrors are black. Two giant TVs offer a combined 1,500 square inches of high-def viewing pleasure. I munch on the Dean & DeLuca chocolates and pocket a bottlette of Hou Hou Shu sparkling sake for later. Such amenities are one way the new hotels are competing for visitor loyalty. They’re also lowering rates precipitously and offering free nights and other deals, hoping to entice guests and maintain high occupancy numbers. As I enjoy a hot shower in the LES beneath a showerhead the size of a large pizza, I feel pleasantly enticed.

MARCHHEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM2010 converted into condominiums. (Interested? They’ve sold for as much as $50 million.) And the Waldorf, well, it’s still got that same burnished-brass-and-polished-marble look—not that there’s anything wrong with that.

INN STYLE Clockwise from top left: the Lobby Bar at the Bowery, a bedroom at the Greenwich, a room in Brooklyn’s NU Hotel and a cozy corner of the NU’s lobby

SWANKIEST LOBBY THE JANE // In 1912, this space sheltered survivors of the Titanic. Today, with its vast Persian rugs, chandeliers and warm tones, it evokes that Gilded Age splendor, only without the pesky icebergs. At right, the Jane’s ballroom

“I’VE EMBARKED ON A LUXURY HOTEL MARATHON, A FORCED MARCH FROM ONE SWANK ACCOMMODATION TO THE NEXT.”

As I get comfortable on the bed and wrap myself in a cozy wool throw, it occurs to me how much the deﬁnition of luxury has changed. It’s no longer about gold leaf—hasn’t been for years—nor is it about a “scene.” We want economy of design, intelligence and warmth. The Bowery has all that. Indeed, it’s hard for me to leave in the morning—until I remember that I’m spending tonight at the Greenwich Hotel, a stunning new grandee co-owned by Robert DeNiro.

CLASSIEST BAR THE LOBBY BAR, THE BOWERY HOTEL // Friendly bartenders? Check. Crisply made martini? Check. Sandstone ﬁreplace, zinc-topped bar, above, and velvet settees? Check. Can I run a tab? MARCHHEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM2010

First, about that shower at the LES. It was amazing, but not the best that I’ll try. For that, I’m torn between those in the Greenwich and the Standard New York. At these hotels, the rainfall showerheads are supplemented by handheld nozzles, which, when utilized simultaneously, help a bather achieve “double wash”—no small thing. Another bathroom ensemble I appreciate is at the Ace Hotel, a swinging new space that is the fourth iteration of a hip Seattle mini-franchise. Here, the “double wash” shower is a prelude to a long, decadent soak in a separate claw-foot tub: the Whiletrifecta.we’rein the bathroom, a word on toiletries: I’m a simple man when it comes to grooming products, but having sampled my fair share of concoctions blended especially for these hotels, I may be ready to step up my game. The Greenwich’s are made by McBride Beauty, a private-label concern based in Brooklyn, and come in large white tubes. The Crosby offers bottles of Miller Harris, and the Bowery uses faux-medicinal bottles of C.O. Bigelow Apothecaries. At the Smyth Tribeca, I ﬁll my shaving kit with an old standby, Dr. Bronner’s Peppermint soap, and at the Ace, I load up on Rudy’s Barber Shop shampoo and conditioner.

I pack my bags and slink west to the Bowery, offering the bottlette of sparkling sake to one particularly appreciative soul. This street is famous for its seedy underbelly, though you’d never know it today to look at the fashionable bars and well-regarded restaurants lining its blocks. Just above Houston, I encounter two very tall new hotels—the Bowery Hotel and the Cooper Square. Passing through the heavy doors of the Bowery is like stepping into another era, with a wall of old-school wooden cubbyholes behind the reception desk to hold messages and heavy brass keys. The velvet-draped lobby is lined with ornate mirrors and peacock feathers. (The Cooper Square aims for a brighter, more modern feel.) My room at the Bowery, a corner king, is a model of simplicity, with lead-paned ﬂoor-to-ceiling windows.

A ROOM WITH A VIEW The King Deluxe Room at the Smyth Tribeca. MOST ELEVATORSPERPLEXING THE SMYTH TRIBECA No matter the actual day, one elevator sports a ﬂoor mat that says “Thursday,” while the other says “Tuesday.” Evidently, the designer wanted it that way. O-kay head by Jaume Plensa by English photorealist Peter Rocklin.

HIPPEST ART COLLECTION CROSBY STREET HOTEL // Every room has its own sampling of excellent original works, below, but don’t miss the striking steel

in the lobby or the paintings

Some of the hotels try hard to reinvent the luxury hotel experience—so hard that they overshoot the mark. At one, I board an elevator and discover two flustered, luggage-laden out-of-towners trying desperately to get to their room on the eighth floor. “This elevator seems to have a mind of its own,” the man says. “You have to insert your keycard first,” I explain. “Gosh, we’ve been in here for fifteen minutes!” says his wife. I can relate. The previous night I fiddled helplessly to wrestle not only with the elevator but with two separate widescreen TVs that seemed to have minds of their

executive editor MIKE GUY has enough high-end shower gel to last a lifetime. 79

CUSHIEST LINENS THE MARK // Think once you get into 2,000-thread-countthe territory, the difference between sheets is indiscernible? Not quite. The otherworldly linens at the newly reopened Mark, by top Italian weaver Quagliotti, will tempt you to ditch those pj’s altogether.

MOST IMPRESSIVE TOILETRY THE BOWERY // The lilliputian, two-inch metal tube of Marvis Classic Strong Mint toothpaste looks a little like superglue, but its taste is strictly mint. Refreshing! (Why don’t all hotels support dental hygiene?)

Two weeks into my hotel marathon, I’ve collected 32 bespoke click pens, a spectrum of monogrammed colored pencils, reams of ﬂashy stationery, enough lavender and sandalwood lotion to stay moisturized through a polar winter, and enough expertise with remote controls to join the Geek Squad. I’ve learned how to get the most value out of room service (order tea, which always comes with a selection of cookies and biscuits), and I’ve become accustomed to being called Mr. Guy. I’ve learned the easiest way to the hardest restaurant reservation is through a concierge, and that bellhops aren’t always charmed by a willingness to carry your own bag. Finally, I learned that keycards are quickly becoming a thing of the past, replaced by an array of fancy gizmos (electrofobs?) you sort of wave at a lock like you’re playing a Theremin. Eventually, my journey nearly complete, I ﬁnd myself on that window sill of the Crosby Street Hotel at dawn, sipping rich coffee from a porcelain cup and trying not to think about slinking back to my lonely basement apartment. The streets far below are silent. Amazingly, there are another 45 hotels opening in New York City in the coming year. I have no idea how the economy will treat them, but I can’t wait to try them Hemispheresout.

BEST BATHROOM THE STANDARD NEW YORK // (below) If you don’t think a view of Jersey can blow your mind, you haven’t seen it from the 16th ﬂoor of the Standard at sunset, through your toes, while soaking in a bath.

MOST MORNINGEYE-OPENINGCOFFEE THE JANE // Find the right seat in the cozy Cafe Gitane satellite just off the Jane’s lobby, and you can watch the colorful collection of guests check out as the sun rises onto the buildings across the Hudson. The morning Journal just seems superﬂuous.

BOARDING PASS In the city that never sleeps, you must arrive energized for all the food, fashion, theater and shopping the Big Apple has to offer. Fly United and let picking a pizza topping be your biggest concern.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COMMARCH2010 own. And some of those light fixtures would take a Ph.D. in particle physics to operate. Of course, this is a prime example of what my father would call a “Cadillac problem.” Sometimes luxury ain’t easy. And sometimes it doesn’t appear very luxurious at all. When I enter the splendidly strange lobby of the Jane Hotel, a bellhop wearing a pillbox hat and matching red and black uniform greets me. He takes my tiny suitcase and guides me to the reception desk, where today’s weather is written in chalk on a small piece of slate. The rooms at the Jane have been designed to look like the interiors of old ship cabins (some have bunk beds, and some floors have shared bathrooms), and the owners keep the prices low (around $100). It’s a theme hotel, but there’s nothing cheesy about it. It’s a similar story at the Ace, where my “Loft Suite” comes complete with a turntable, record collection, and a Martin acoustic guitar (perfectly tuned). At first I bridle at the rock & roll theme—if I wanted that, I’d have stayed at the Hard Rock—but then I start playing “Wish You Were Here” on the guitar, and pretty soon I’m glad I’m there.

MEAT AND GREET The Standard Grill at the new Standard Hotel in New York’s Meatpacking District

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CLEAR CUT Central Saint Martins students toil over their projects.

“Cornel, do you have something for me to cut? Or am I just going to sit here all morning waiting for you?” With that, Bolt shrugs apologetically and gets back to the task at hand. One floor down, Wilson, the source of the students’ skittishness, sits behind a spare desk, her hair pulled back in a plain ponytail. In her office, she scans their sketches and judges their final pieces with characteristic bluntness. Some students liken the process to an evisceration.“I’mnotthe Simon Cowell of fashion,” she snaps, clearly weary of the comparison. “But we’re not clinking champagne glasses and air-kissing each other here, congratulating ourselves over making another little star. It’s not about coming here and being dusted with fairy dust. I’m an educator. I come in at eight, I work till eight or nine, I’m overweight, I go home, I lie on the bed and I eat KitWhenKats.”some of her MA students first arrive, says Wilson, she faces the uphill battle of tearing down everything they think they know about fashion. She breaks off into one of her riffs. “We’re dealing with a Around him in the MA Fashion studios at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design, the storied British institution that has schooled the likes of Jarvis Cocker, Pierce Brosnan and Sir Terence Conran in everything from fine art to drama, students in black hoodies and skinny jeans are shuffling around their work spaces with stacks of patterns and swathes of fabric. The drab, freezing room three stories above Charing Cross Road is worlds away from the dramatically lit catwalks of London Fashion Week, where the most promising of these students will show their work in a month’s time. Unlike the slick studios of Project Runway or Launch My Line, there is no “accessories wall” here, no L’Oréal Paris makeup studio, no guarantee of overnight stardom. The windows rattle in the wind, paint peels off the walls. In 2011, the school will move out of its ramshackle digs and into a state-of-the-art facility near Kings Cross railroad station. Until then, students shiver, La Bohème–style. The only hint of the stakes they face is a wall one floor down, where some of the most prominent alums of CSM’s fashion program have scrawled their names in pencil. John Galliano. Alexander McQueen. Stella McCartney. Phoebe Philo. Zac Posen. No Harding’spressure.neat, chest-high studio desk is bare but for some sketches for his masters collection, the sum of nearly a year and a half of work. The 10-plus looks he will present in the coming weeks to Professor Louise Wilson, the formidable head of the program, are also the culmination of almost “seven hard-core years” of studies at the college. Today, he jokes, running on about four hours of sleep a night, his fingers blistered, “It’s really very unglamorous. You’re up at six-thirty in the morning, cutting garments, doing five people’s jobs at once.” Just half of the students in these rooms will be selected to show at London Fashion Week, hitting the runway on the same day as BOARDING PASS With so much to see in the British capital, let United get you there rested and refreshed.

ON A NEARLY Arctic January day in London’s Soho, Matthew Harding, a slim 25-year-old Englishman with slicked-backsandy brown hair and ﬁne features, sorts through a bin ﬁlled with fabric samplesand rough patches of sheepskin. “I found a great old rug from the seventies,” he says,picking up one weathered square of animal hide. “But for the runway I’m trying to source pieces that are a bit, well, less nasty.” the prestigious Burberry show, when droves of international press will be in attendance.

Across the room, Cornel Bolt, a 29-year-old from Switzerland with a shock of blond hair and heavy-framed glasses, is circumspect about his chances. “I try not to think about it,” says Bolt. “People are really competitive. I mean, nobody’s going to steal my scissors from my desk. It’s not sabotage. But it’s been a really tough process. I was expecting it to be hard. I had no idea just how...” A middle-aged female technician interrupts his sentence, clearly getting impatient.

MARCHHEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM2010 83

Jane Rapley, CSM’s Head of College, is thoughtful about the pressure that faces students such as Harding and Bolt and idiosyncratic educators such as Wilson. “It’s a horrible pressure, and it’s a lovely pressure. We don’t want people to Matthew Harding gets a feel for his materials.

MAN OF THE CLOTH

group of students who say they’re inspired by fountains and silver chairs, and they carry designer handbags. It transpires that they have very few skills, and they don’t make things to wear. They’re used to seeing their fashion in a picture. I’m used to seeing fashion on a body. So they try to bully me into submission by showing me what they think they’re doing fabulously, and I bully them into the fact that they need to show me clothes on a human.”

When asked if her tactics amount to tough love, Wilson grumbles, “It’s not tough love. It’s hard, analytical teaching, one-to-one between my staff and the students. It’s got nothing to do with love, with favorites.” But even Wilson, who goes on to growl a bit more about working for an underfunded institution “where the bloody heating doesn’t work!” softens into something approximating a purr when she pauses to consider the “mystique of the place. Yes. It’s something.”

imagine, ‘Oh, at CSM they’re all too up their own bottoms, too grand for me.’ We have to sometimes disabuse our students— ‘You might have been a star in your own small pool, but you have to work at it.’ You’ve got students here who have palpable ambition. A lot of them have to learn how to grow up. CSM might get the door off the latch, but I tell students, ‘It’s you that walks through. All the degree will do is maybe open the door, but in the end you are the creative force.’”

“I remember Christopher Kane’s graduating show,” Smith says, referring to the talented Scottish designer who now heads up Donatella Versace’s couture collection. “Sitting front row, it was a sort of spine-tingling moment, and I thought, this is new and fresh. There are always strong students, but every two or three years there is someone who makes you gasp, who you know will go all the way.”

For Anne Smith, who heads the fashion program at Central Saint Martins, there is the humdrum work of educating, and then there are the moments that make you catch your breath.

A BIT SKETCHY MARCHHEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM201084

Cornel Bolt at the proverbial drawing board

MATERIAL

At the end of the day, Harding hopes to establish his own line, but he’s willing to work his way up through the ranks of the fashion industry. “I’d love to work at Givenchy, or Lanvin. But it’s not about being bathed in the golden light and just making it overnight. In the end, you just don’t want to disappoint yourself.”

SARAH HORNE is glad to see that British eccentricity is alive and well. WORLD Behind the seams at Central Saint Martins

Back in the MA studios, there’s a rack of semiﬁnished clothes beside Harding, offering just a hint of what his ﬁnal collection will look like. There are sharply tailored sheepskin pencil skirts and psychedelic structured blouses that look as though they could be worn by a time-traveling Elizabethan courtesan. “I think I’ve come to something that’s a little bit Narnia Snow Queen,” Harding muses. “I like to play with structure. I like it when you look at a piece of clothing and wonder how it works. I create nightmares for myself making these laborious things.”

A RIVER RUNS THROUGH IT Opposite, rowing down Barton Creek; above, Gary Clark Jr. at Lamberts Downtown Barbecue AUSTIN88 DAY ONE onShoppingSoCo 90 DAY TWO Pedaling along Barton GreenbeltCreek 94 DAY THREE Sampling the best barbecue Three Perfect Days This proudly different Texas capital is home to thriving live music and culinary scenes, a rambunctious university, and a healthy share of ﬁtness fanatics. In their efforts to “Keep Austin Weird,” locals embrace it all. // BY MARK HEALY 87 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MARCH 2010

WEIRD. THAT’S HOW AUSTIN SEES ITSELF. It’s part of the local identity, a way for this proud city to distinguish itself from the Lone Star State’s other high-proﬁle, large-personality towns. You see it on bumper stickers and in boutique storefronts, on University of Texas backpacks and affixed to the insides of cabs: “Keep Austin Weird.” It’s an effective battle cry and an admirable goal. And so far—if the Viking-costumed klezmer band you see dancing in the street is any indication—Austin seems to be doing a pretty good job. Austin is Texas’ capital and in many ways a direct expression of the state’s rough-and-tumble Ranger spirit. But there are other forces at work in shaping the city’s character. There’s UT, a local tech industry and, perhaps most notably, it’s the self-proclaimed “Live Music Capital of the World,” with more venues per capita than any city in the U.S. It is also home to ﬁlmmakers and actors (Richard Linklater, Robert Rodriguez, Sandra Bullock and King of the Hill creator Mike Judge, to name a few), along with hordes of chefs who’ve come to join a barbecue and TexMex revolution. Austinites also embrace the skeletal aesthetic spilling over from Mexico’s Day of the Dead celebration, reveling in their city’s haunted hotels, bizarre “moonlight” towers and appreciation for the occult. With all these overlapping quirks, weirdness abounds. May it stay that way.

(Already, you’re ﬁguring out that Austin’s food is so delicious and varied you’ll have to wake up early and stay out late to squeeze in four meals a day.) Now you’re ready to explore. The scrubbed-clean main strip of trendy South Congress, or SoCo, includes some of Austin’s best shopping, but you won’t ﬁnd a Pottery Barn or Barnes and Noble. Austin has remained somewhat immune to massive chains, mostly because the local restaurants and shops are

TWINKLE TWINKLE Opposite, Guero’s deck lit up at night; top, Austin’s skyline; above, Magnolia and one of its cheesy, delicious dishes 1 CRAIG STALEY GENERAL MANAGER, MELLOW JOHNNY’S BIKE STORE // “Austin is the place in Texas where you want to ride a bike. There’s great riding in the Hill Country west of the city and, if you just want to tool around, the river ride is great.” CAROLINE

DAY ONE Start your day like a local. Have breakfast at Magnolia (1), a casual roadside restaurant, draped in Lone Star–Love Child décor, that spoons out a mean breakfast. Try the Love Migas, a scramble of eggs, peppers, onions, cheese, salsa and shards of tortilla cooked in a garlic and serrano concoction Magnolia calls “love butter.” Scrumptious, and just slightly better than the Frisbee-size whole-wheat blueberry pecan pancake you’ll want to order for dessert.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY ESRA

RØISE 88 MARCH 2010 | UNITED.COM CANZIANI,JOAOBYRIGHT:FROMCLOCKWISELEFT);PAGE,(PREVIOUSLAMBERTSOFCOURTESYANDRIGHT)PAGE,(PREVIOUSGORDONBLAKEBYPHOTOGRAPHS GRUBBS/BEECREEKPHOTOGRAPHY.COMTODBY(2),CAFEMAGNOLIAOFCOURTESY

such tough competition. You’ll stroll past emporiums such as Uncommon Objects (2), which houses dozens of top notch vintage vendors, folk art and crafts stores, and Western wear mecca Allen’s Boots (3). Be sure to stop in Lucy in Disguise with Diamonds (4), a vintage costumer that leads you to ponder what kind of city can support an 8,000-square-foot store whose main business is renting and selling Elvis jumpsuits, elf costumes meant for adults and Queen Guinevere gowns. “Austin’s just a town that likes to dress up,” the woman at the counter tells you. “All part of keeping Austin weird. Everyone’s out there doing their part.”

Afterward, go for a stroll through the historic Bouldin Creek neighborhood, peering at the eclectic assortment of Victorian and Mission-style homes lining the streets. You slowly make your way across the river to the comfort of the Four Seasons (6). Take a minute on your balcony to enjoy the view of the Colorado River. Then get going. It’s happy hour downstairs at Trios, where the combination plates—beef carpaccio, truffled arugula and manchego, and steak fries in truffle aioli—are too reﬁned to pass up. So are the scorched Padrón peppers. You watch the sun set over Lady Bird Lake before heading out for the evening.

AMERICAN-STATESMAN/PSGBARRERA/AUSTINRALPHBY

On any given night, there are upward of 100 good bands or solo artists on Austin’s many stages. A fixture since 1957, the Continental Club (7) just happens to be one of the oldest and best venues. The beer is cheap, and the crowd is feisty, attractive and happily on its feet for the cross-border groove of a local band called Charanga Cakewalk. Before turning in, grab a cab to a nuevo Mexican restaurant called La Condesa (8) in the Warehouse District. With sleek light fixtures and cool concrete floors, this is a destination for the slick set. If you’re more interested in grabbing a stool at the bar, consider ordering one of more than 80 different tequilas and digging into a soft, crisp and utterly delicious huarache with pork belly and apple topping.

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2 FOOD TRUCKS // Meal deals on wheels // Austin was among the first cities to enjoy a robust food-truck boom, and you’ll be depriving yourself if you don’t find time to visit any number of Airstreams and recommissioned ice cream trucks parked around town. In a lot across from the prime shopping on South Congress, head to the shiny camper that is The Mighty Cone, an offshoot of the restaurant Hudson’s on the Bend. The camper serves up soft flour tortillas in paper ice cream cone holders, filled with chunks of chicken, shrimp, and avocado, and topped with a mango-jalapeño slaw. Then walk 50 paces to the Hey Cupcake trailer for a red velvet or 24 Carrot. Still hungry? Cross the river to the mmmpanada truck, located at 2nd Street and Congress, for flaky empanadas well-stuffed with BBQ chopped beef, asparagus and prosciutto, and spicy black beans.

3PD AUSTIN

All that eccentricity has worked up your appetite for some Tex-Mex. Just a few doors down is Guero’s (5), Austin’s best-respected purveyor of tacos, enchiladas and all things tortilla. You snag a spot on the patio, ideal for people-watching, and dig into tacos al pastor (marinated pork and pineapple on fresh corn tortillas).

DAY TWO Austin is a city of night-owl musicians, late-rising students, football fans, barbecue obsessives and—somewhat surprisingly—ﬁtness fanatics. No matter the weather, the city’s puzzle work of pathways is ﬁlled with runners, dog walkers and 90

UP A CREEK Twin Falls on the Barton Creek Greenbelt; top, Sixth Street

AUSTIN POWERS Clockwise from top left, Toy Joy, Uncommon Objects, the dog run at Auditorium Shores park, and Mellow Johnny’s

The trail leads to Barton Springs (3)—Austin’s favorite swimming hole. You soak your toes, bag a few rays of Hill Country sun, then circle back through town to sample the city’s most beloved burger. Hut’s (4), which just celebrated its 70th birthday, still delivers a sloppy throwback patty along with thick, beer-battered onion rings. Top it off with a Lone Star longneck and some in-depth college football repartee with a woman in a cashmere sweater and designer glasses.

ALL THE WAY WITH LBJ // Don’t miss Austin’s Texas-size presidential library. // Once you get away from Austin’s kooky side, there’s a lot of history to explore. The Lyndon Baines Johnson Presidential Library and Museum ( lbjlib. utexas.edu ) is one of the most visited in the country, and the only one that’s free. The most devoted history buffs will need days to peruse all the documents and artifacts of Johnson’s presidency— between his maybemodeladuringtheprettyofMovement,Warassassination,predecessor’stheVietnamandtheCivilRightsthere’salotgroundtocover.AlsocoolareamodelofOvalOfﬁceasitlookedhispresidencyandlife-size,joke-crackingofJohnson(sothere is some of the city’s signature quirk here).

CLARA QUESI, DANCER, CONTINENTAL CLUB “I moved to Austin when I was six, and my mom used to bring me to the Soap Creek Saloon. It’s still a great place to hang out.”

92 MARCH 2010 | UNITED.COM

cyclists, thanks in large part to Lady Bird Johnson, who focused her post–White House years on creating Lady Bird Lake (named for her after her death in 2007) and preserving public access to the Colorado River. Today, trails line both sides of the river, traversing it on new ramp systems. Get in on the action, and minimize the impact of your four-meal-a-day habit.

AMERICA’S MOST HAUNTED Above, the Driskill Hotel, and a connoisseur enjoying a treat from Hello Cupcake; opposite, the view from Lady Bird Lake

Battling burger-induced lethargy, you park the bike and opt for a stroll along the edge of the commercially reclaimed Warehouse District, where rows of former feed stores now showcase Danish light fixtures and high-end dog treats. There are also dozens of lounges and restaurants that are more sophisticated than those on the unmistakably collegiate Sixth Street Strip a few blocks over. Sit down for an afternoon latte at Jo’s (5) to kick off a laid-back evening. In a town with so much music, going to a movie theater seems odd. Still, enough locals urge you to go to one of the Alamo Drafthouses (6) that you find yourself grabbing the last seat for a 7 p.m. show, in which comedians ad-lib to old movies and TV clips. The show empties with plenty of evening left. You’re in the mood for a good steak and a cocktail with some bite. Ranch 616 (7) and its Brushfire (local Tito’s vodka, orange liqueur and a pickled jalapeño) hit the spot. The biscuits, some of the best you’ve eaten, are a perfect accompaniment.

After a coffee at stylish Halcyon coffee lounge (1), you head downtown to Mellow Johnny’s (2), the bike store opened two years ago by Craig Staley and local hero Lance Armstrong. This is the hub of Austin’s thriving bike culture: There’s a top-notch training facility, a custom design shop and a gallery’s worth of artwork on theAfterwalls.Staley ﬁts you with a helmet and a hybrid, you pedal across the river onto a riverside trail called Barton Creek Greenbelt. It’s craggy, but the sunshine sparkling on the rushing Colorado and the lush, enveloping woods propel you forward. Soon enough, you forget that you’re barely two miles from Texas’ capitol building.

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KINKY FRIEDMAN “RENAISSANCEMUSICIAN/POLITICIAN/TEXAN” // “One place to check out is Threadgill’s, named after Kenneth Threadgill, who used to have a gas station. That’s the ﬁrst place that Janis Joplin ever played. He was very kind to her when most people weren’t.”

MARCH 2010 | UNITED.COM

DAY THREE

MARK HEALY, an editor at GQ, is still on the four-meal-a -day plan.

WADE TIME Swimmers at Barton Springs, above, and Jo’s 94

BOARDING PASS Let United get you to the Live Music Capital of the World with ﬁve inches of extra legroom. Arrive relaxed and refreshed in this laid-backbig-city-meets-collegetown.

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Based on the abundance of bats living under the Congress Avenue Bridge and the Day of the Dead skeletons displayed everywhere, you’ve gathered that Austin has a healthy appreciation for ghosts, ghouls and spirits. Austinites all claim that the city’s grand old hotel, the Driskill (1), is haunted. Taking up nearly a full downtown block, its beautiful, sprawling lobby is an embodiment of Old Texas. Ignore the creepy lore and have a coffee by the fireplace. Then lighten up with a trip to a toy store. Toy Joy (2) is among the best in the country. Located near the University of Texas campus, it’s a temple of kitsch, clutter and thousands of little rubber and plastic figures. The 50,000 students a few blocks away certainly help keep the store in business, but it thrives due to the support of those weirdness-loving Austinites. It is your good fortune that another Austin institution, Ruby’s BBQ (3), is located directly across the street. In this town, grown men and women have lifelong disagreements about which barbecued brisket is the town’s best. Far be it for us to choose sides, but Ruby’s is certainly near the very top of anyone’s list. And while you may not remember the beans or the corn bread years from now, the brisket is so soft, smoky and deeply satisfying that, once back out on the street, you find yourself ready to wade into the great debate and throw down on its behalf. Take the scenic route back downtown: Circle the Texas Capitol Building (4), an impressive Renaissance Revival building made of local granite that entices you to check out its entryway, which rivals that of the national capitol. Glad that you stopped to look, get back on a bike path along the north side of town to the river. Stop at one of the WPA-era bridges and watch a burly, shirtless man navigate his raft, Huck Finn–style, downriver. An old Union Pacific train rattles across the next bridge over, its faded crimson cars lit up by the afternoon sun. Soon enough you realize, yes, you’re hungry again. You’re on vacation, after all. The upscale and atmospheric Lamberts Downtown Barbecue (5) is housed in a restored brick feed house in the Warehouse District. Lamberts takes its cocktails quite seriously. The Sanchez, which is essentially a vodka martini filthy with olive juice over cracked ice and garnished with pickled jalapeños, is a remarkably good companion to simple but succulent smoked barbecued chicken accompanied by the tastiest salsa verde on the planet. With its lively dining room and bands playing upstairs, you’ll recognize Lamberts as a place you could spend four or five quality hours. And so you will. You raise your glass and toast to keeping Austin weird.

STANKIEWICZSTEVEBYILLUTRATIONSMAP HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MARCH 20103PD AUSTIN THOSE THREE PERFECT DAYS DAY ONE (1) Magnolia 1920 S Congress Ave.; Tel: 512-445-0000 (2) Uncommon Objects 1512 S Congress Ave.; Tel: 512-442-4000 (3) Allen’s Boots 1522 S Congress Ave.; Tel: 512-447-1413 (4) Lucy in Disguise with Diamonds 1506 S Congress Ave.; Tel: 512-444-2002 (5) Guero’s 1412 S Congress Ave.; Tel: 512-707-8232 (6) Four Seasons 98 San Jacinto Blvd.; Tel: 512-478-4500 (7) Continental Club 1315 S Congress Ave.; Tel: 512-441-0202 (8) La Condesa 400-A West 2nd St.; Tel: 512-499-0300 DAY TWO (1) Halcyon 218 W 4th St. Tel: 512-472-9637 (2) Mellow Johnny’s 400 Nueces St.; Tel: 512-473-0222 (3) Barton Springs 2101 Barton Springs Rd.; Tel: 514-476-9044 (4) Hut’s 807 W 6th St.; Tel: 512-472-0693 (5) Jo’s 242 W 2nd St.; Tel: 514-469-9003 (6) Alamo Drafthouse 320 E 6th St.; Tel: 512-476-1320 (7) Ranch 616 616 Nueces St.; Tel: 512-479-7616 DAY THREE (1) The Driskill Hotel 604 Brazos St.; Tel: 800-252-9367 (2) Toy Joy 2900 Guadalupe St.; Tel: 512-320-0090 (3) Ruby’s BBQ 512 W 29th St.; Tel: 512-477-1651 (4) Texas Capitol Building 112 E 11th St.; Tel: 512-494-1500 (5) Lamberts Downtown Barbecue 401 W 2nd St.; Tel: 512-494-1500 0 .5 Miles E. Dean Keeton St. Manor Rd. E. 12th St. E.6thSt. E.CesarChavezSt.E.RiversideDr.TrinitySt.N.LamarBlvd.CongressAve.S.S.1stSt.BartonSpringsRd.ColoradoRiverW.6thSt. ColoradoRiver WestW.1stSt.E.6thSt.E.5thSt.Ave.NuecesSt.SanAntonioSt.GuadalupeSt. CongressSt.ColoradoSt. E.1stSt. 29035 inset area 1 2 3 5 4 1 2 5 4 7 8 3 1 23 46 5 7

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Two weeks before Super Bowl XLIII Steelers wideout Hines Ward was laid up with a sprained knee. Wild speculation concerning his playability was fanning a media frenzy in reassured fans that “nothing, I repeat, nothing” would keep him out of the Super Bowl. A vigorous rehab program was usually standard practice to address such injuries, but after the Steelers made Super Bowl history, Ward revealed a surprising secret. A vital addition to his healing regiment included quality time undergoing personal hyperbaric therapy. Extensive medical studies on the healing properties of hyperbarics triggered this therapy’s growth. The ability to when Ward was featured in the February 2009 Sports Illustrated magazine climbing out of his Vitaeris chamber in a hotel room. The photo showed how mainstream personal hyperbaric therapy has become.

Life is withBetterxygen bodies has become a critical health concern in our modern society,” Dr. Kyle Vandyke

Sunny K. Hill, International Hyperbarics Association.

Chronic Fatigue Syndrome, Lyme Disease, Autism, sports injuries, general anti-aging, and more. The development of the lowpressure, personal hyperbaric chamber now makes it practical to bring this technology out of the hospital, allowing healthminded people to treat in the privacy of their own home. What does the future hold for personal hyperbaric therapy? With thousands of personal hyperbaric chambers in use, it is impossible to dismiss this surge as a mere fad. In fact, each year this holistic therapy. With all the demands that we place on our bodies every day, it may be time to move the treadmill over and make room for a personal hyperbaric chamber.

Treating oxygen deprivation in other parts of the body is becoming more common. Hospitals frequently utilize highpressure hyperbaric chambers in emergency situations. However, many clinical studies have produced successful results

Hypoxia impacted neurological functions and caused physical stress to the body. Unfortunately, Dr. Fojgel’s work was not completed because of the 9/11 tragedy that changed airport dynamics.

(1)Interview with Dr. Dan A. Rossignol. Medical Veritas 3 (2006) 944-951

Autism recovery advocate, Jenny McCarthy purchased a chamber to treat her son, Evan, but discovered a wonderful Ellen Degeneres’ show that she and Jim Carey each have a chamber in their homes so they can maintain good health necessarily have to be a high-performance athlete to enjoy The strain generated by a high-octane life is wearing on the body, both physically and mentally. On a psychological level, a one-hour personal hyperbaric treatment triggers the brain to release serotonin that generates a feeling of serenity and peace. Physically, as a person ages, basic stress on the body wears out the joints, muscles, vital organs, and even brain Danielbody.

Rossignol, Medical Doctor and Hyperbaric Specialist equated an hour treatment in a personal hyperbaric chamber to taking 40 Motrin, without the toxic response. “You get increased oxygenation, decreased swelling, and decreased commented. “If a drug did this, a pharmaceutical company would make quite a bit of money.” (1) become a critical health concern in our modern society,” stated Dr. Kyle Vandyke, Medical Advisor to the International Hyperbarics Association. “Our industrial progress presents itself technological advancements, but we now are left to deal with critical treatment for detoxing the body.”

“The late Doctor Ignacio Fojgel, Medical Advisor to the Air Force

Mainstreaming Personal Hyperbaric Therapy

10.

THE TYPICAL QUICKGYM PURCHASER GOES THROUGH SEVERAL STAGES: Total disbelief that the QuickGym can do all this in only 4 minutes. Rhetorical (and sometimes hostile) questioning and ridicule. Reading the QuickGym literature and reluctantly understanding it. Taking a leap of faith and renting a QuickGym for 30 days. Being highly impressed by the results and purchasing a QuickGym. Becoming a QuickGym enthusiast and trying to persuade friends. Being ignored and ridiculed by the friends who think you’ve lost your mind. After a year of using the QuickGym your friends admiring your good shape. You telling them (again) that you only exercise those 4 minutes per day. Those friends reluctantly rent the QuickGym for a 30 day trial. Repeat the above cycle from point 5 on down.

You get the same results from 4 minutes on the QUICKGYMas: • 25 to 45 minutes of aerobic exercise for cardio conditioning. • 45 minutes of weight training for muscle tone & strength. • 20 minutes of stretching for limberness & flexibility.

RENTAQUICKGYMFOR 30 DAYS. RENTALAPPLIESTOPURCHASE. 4EXERCISEINEXACTLYMINUTESPERDAY Order a FREE DVD from www.quickgyminfo.com or call 818.504.6450 $14,615 UNITED1003-10% UNITED1003-20% *20% off with Saturday night stay. 10% off without Saturday night stay. †Valet parking not available at all locations. Coupon valid at The Parking Spot and The Parking Spot 2. Offer expires September 30, 2010. This original coupon must be surrendered, no photocopies accepted. Coupon may not be combined with any other offer. Coupon not valid for On-Airport Valet at DFW. Shuttle pick up at elevator lobby at LAX and STL. ©2010 PRG Parking Management, LLC. The Parking Spot and the spotted shuttle design are trademarks of PRG Parking Management, LLC. Friendly shuttles from your car to the front door of the airport every 5-7 minutes • Earn free parking • Covered, open-air and valet† parking • Well-lit and secured • Always open • Online reservations available • For turn-by-turn directions and more information, go to www.TheParkingSpot.com SAVE 20%* ATL, AUS, BNA, DAL, DFW, HOU, IAH, KCI, LAX, MCO, PHX, & STL. Why pay the price for parking on-airport? There’s a better way – The Parking Spot TAKE MAGAZINE AND PRESENT COUPON AT ANY OF OUR SPOTS:

MARCH 2010 PLAY You’ll be missing out if you turn a blind eye to The Blind Side INFORMATION 112 United Destinations 116 Terminal Diagrams 121 Alliances & Partnerships 122 Customs & Immigration 131 Food & Beverages ENTERTAINMENT 102 Films & Television 109 Audio Programming 124 Crossword 126 Sudoku & Quiz

TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION MARCH 1-15 Up in the Air MARCH 16-31 The Blind Side [T] MARCH 1-15 The Big Bang Theory [T] My Brilliant Brain Three Sheets [T] MARCH 16-31 The O ffice [T] Top Chef Masters The Good Wife [T] MARCH 1-15 Everybody’s Fine [T] MARCH 16-31 Fantastic Mr. Fox Both films available on flights between Denver/Chicago and Hawaii MARCH 1-15 Two and a Half Men [T] Anthony Bourdain: No Reservations [T] Arrested Development [T] MARCH 16-31 30 Rock [T] Yellowstone: Tales from the Wild [T] The Middle [T] MARCH 1-15 The Blind Side [T] MARCH 16-31 Up in the Air Both films available on flights between Denver/Chicago and Hawaii MARCH 1-15 The Office [T] Top Chef Masters The Good Wife [T] MARCH 16-31 The Big Bang Theory [T] My Brilliant Brain Three Sheets [T] MARCH 1-15 Up in the Air MARCH 16-31 The Blind Side [T] MARCH 1-15 Two and a Half Men [T] The Good Wife [T] How Do They Do It? 30 Rock [T] MARCH 16-31 Top Chef Masters Brothers and Sisters [T] The Simpsons [T] Arrested Development [T] MARCH 1-15 Fantastic Mr. Fox MARCH 16-31 Everybody’s Fine [T] MARCH 1-15 The Big Bang Theory [T] Chuck [T][V] The Middle [T] Friends [T] MARCH 16-31 NCIS: Los Angeles [T][V] Man V. Food The Office [T] Frasier [T] &MEXICOHAWAIIAMERICANORTHCARIBBEAN MARCH 1-15 Fantastic Mr. Fox MARCH 16-31 Everybody’s Fine [T] MARCH 1-15 30 Rock [T] Yellowstone: Tales from the Wild [T] The Middle [T] MARCH 16-31 Two and a Half Men [T] Anthony Bourdain: No Reservations [T] Arrested Development [T] &FILMTELEVISION FILMS ARE SHOWN ONLY on flights of three hours or longer. Movies available on most 747, 757, 767, 777, A319 and A320 aircraft flights. Schedules and selections are subject to change. International Language Tracks / (S) Películas están disponsibles en Español en todas las rutas domesticas en el canal 10. FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISIONSOUTHBOUND NORTHBOUND EASTBOUND WESTBOUND INSIDE THE HUDDLE

FOR QUINTON AARON, The Blind Side started out as another audition. The Bronx-born actor, who stands six feet, eight inches tall, had been hearing for years that he was too big for the big roles. Early last year, when he was working as a security guard, he got a call. He’d landed the role of offensive tackle Michael Oher.

“We had a nationwide search,” writer-director John Lee Hancock has said. “You need a kid that...is very, very large, and can move.” For once, Aaron’s size was an asset, and his boyish demeanor sealed the deal. “Next thing I know I was being ﬂown out to L.A. to meet him,” says Aaron. “That was actually my ﬁrst time on a plane.”—Patrick Huguenin

“It’s rare for a movie to be at once so biting and so moving.” The Hollywood Reporter Ryan Bingham is a corporate downsizing expert whose cherished life on the road is threatened just as he is on the cusp of reaching 10 million frequent ﬂyer miles and just after he’s met the frequent-traveler woman of his dreams.

DIRECTED BY Wes Anderson

EVERYBODY’S FINE [T]

DIRECTED BY Jason Reitman

—Los Angeles Times

1 hr. 46 min. UP IN THE AIR

FEATURING Robert De Niro, Kate Beckinsale, Sam Rockwell, Drew Barrymore

DIRECTED BY Kirk Jones

FANTASTIC MR. FOX “You can appreciate its wit, its beauty and the sly gravity of its emotional undercurrents.”—

“This is a dream role for [Sandra] Bullock—ﬁnally, a job that requires her to be adult, tart, and smart, all at once—and she makes good use of it.” The Austin Chronicle

“This Americanized remake of Giuseppe Tornatore’s 1990 Stanno Tutti Bene is gracefully acted by a very good cast headed by [Robert] De Niro, relaxing into a comfortable pair of shoes originally worn by Marcello Mastroianni.”

The Blind Side depicts the true story of Michael Oher, a homeless youngster taken in by the Tuohys, a well-to-do family. Oher’s presence in the Tuohy’s lives leads them to some insightful self-discoveries, and Oher goes on to become an AllAmerican offensive left tackle.

A widower who realizes his only connection to his family was through his wife sets off on an impromptu road trip to reunite with each of his grown children.

FEATURING Sandra Bullock, Tim McGraw, Kathy Bates

2 hrs. 4 min. 1 hr. 49 min.

CUSTOMERS ARE WELCOME TO VIEW their own video entertainment aboard a United aircraft as long as they are able to show the programming has an MPAA rating of “R” or less.

MOST FILMS HAVE BEEN EDITED FOR AIRLINE USE. However, customer discretion is still advised. Content guidelines are provided as a courtesy to our customers in choosing whether to view a ﬁlm. HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

THE BLIND SIDE [T]

The New York Times

1 hr. 39 min.

103

DIRECTED BY John Lee Hancock

| MAR CH 2010

Based on the beloved story by Roald Dahl, the ﬁlm tells the story of the noble, charming and fantastic Mr. Fox who uses his wits and cunning to outfox three dimwitted farmers who tire of sharing their chickens with the crafty creature.

VOICES BY George Clooney, Meryl Streep, Anjelica Huston, Jason Schwartzman

(S) Spanish (G) German (C) Chinese (J) Japanese [V] Violence [S] Sexual Situations [T] Adult Themes

FEATURING George Clooney, Jason Bateman, Vera Farmiga

Summer arrives, and grizzly bears emerge from hibernation. After a yawn and a stretch, they teach their young how to hunt ﬁsh and when to move out through valleys and grasslands into summer forests and up into the peaks. But summer here is ﬁckle—just as the snow melts, another serious natural threat comes along. PLAY you turn blind eye 110 United CustomsDestinations&Immigration100 Films Television Sudoku Quiz IF YOUR AIRCRAFT IS EQUIPPED with in-seat video, refer to the separate Play guide located in your seat pocket.

&FILMTELEVISION TELEVISION DESCRIPTIONS

LIVE LAUGH LEARN

Susan Polgar is the world’s ﬁrst female chess grandmaster. But she wasn’t born with her brilliant brain—it was created by the unique experiment that dominated her childhood. She explores how male and female brains are different in a test at Blenheim Palace, home to one of the largest hedge mazes in the world. You’ll get smarter just watching.

Phycisists Leonard and Sheldon have the kind brilliance that helps them understand how the universe works, but not how to interact with people. A free-spirited beauty named Penny lives next door and encourages the guys to get out a little. Leonard enters the dating world and navigates the accompanying Facebook etiquette.

TWO AND A HALF MEN

GET IN TOUCH

Embark on an international pub crawl with Zane Lamprey. The comedian and his sidekick learn about drink culture all over the world (sounds like hard work, no?) by sipping on coconut porter in Hawaii, soju in Seoul and, obviously, cognac in Cognac, France. Bottom’s up!

ANTHONY BOURDAIN: NO RESERVATIONS

TALESYELLOWSTONE:FROMTHE WILD

Almost as well-known for his outspoken attitude as he is for his culinary skill, Anthony Bourdain is endlessly entertaining as a culinary travel guide, giving viewers a taste of his travels. In Tokyo, he examines the relationship between the perfect knife and the perfect sushi, martial arts and ﬂower arrangements.

The views contained in the video content are not necessarily those of United.

THREE SHEETS

THE BIG BANG THEORY

Well-to-do bachelor Charlie’s Malibu beach house gets a different vibe when his tightly wound brother Alan and nephew Jake move in. The beach house has yet another uninvited resident in the form of Melissa, Alan’s new girlfriend, who ends up taking over the house alongside Chelsea, Charlie’s brutally honest housekeeper.

MY BRILLIANT BRAIN

Like to plan ahead and know what’s playing before your flight? Text “MOVIE” to 75309 and you’ll get a reply with the current movies that are playing. If you really like to plan ahead, text “NEXT MOVIE” for next month’s movies. What do you think of our programming? We’re open to suggestions. Please send them to play@united.com or visit united.com/play.

Of cial Airline of Feeding America

PhotosMagnum/HarveyAlanDavid

1 in 4 children in America is struggling with hunger and does not know where their next meal is coming from. United has partnered with Feeding America’s Nourish Our Kids program to help ensure no child goes hungry. By purchasing United’s new Eat for GoodSM snackbox onboard today, you can help provide seven meals to those families struggling with hunger. Learn more at feedingamerica.org/united.

Join The Fight Against Childhood Hunger

&FILMTELEVISION B747 MAINSCREEN PROGRAMMING INTERNATIONAL LANGUAGE TRACKS (G) Die Aufflistungder Sprachen für ausgewählte Spielfilme finden Sie für die 747-400 Maschinen auf Kanal 2 für alle weiteren Maschinen auf Kanal 10. (J) トラック言語本の長編映画をチャンネル2と747-400航空機上の他の飛行機内でのチャネル10で選択されています (C) 在747-400型飞机上这些故事片的音频位于第 10频道. 在其他型号的飞机上位于第2频道 FILM TELEVISION FILMTELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILMTELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILMFILMTELEVISIONTELEVISION If your aircraft is equipped with in-seat video, refer to the separate Play guide located in your seat pocket. CHINAJAPAN & HONG &THAILANDJAPAN–HONGVIETNAM–HONGSINGAPORE–KONGKONGKONGTAIWAN Up in the Air (J)(C) The Blind Side [T] (C) ブラインド・サイド (J) The Invention of Lying (J)(C) *Where the Wild Things Ar (C) かいじゅうたちのいるところ (J) *East Coast/ORD only Brothers and Sisters [T] (J) Royal Pains [T] Frasier [T] (J) Brothers and Sisters [T] (C) Royal Pains [T] (C) Frasier [T] (C) The Informant! (J) 大鑊密探 (C) Brothers and Sisters [T] (C) Royal Pains [T] (C) Frasier [T] (C) Brothers and Sisters [T] (C) / Royal Pains [T] (C) Frasier [T] (C) Extreme Loggers: Ice Logging (C) Doing Da Vinci (C) Weird Connections (C) The R eal (J) / Click (J) HARD talk (J) Peschardt’s People (J) The Informant! (J) 大鑊密探 (C) Where the Wild Things Are (J)(C) The Real (J) Click (J) HARD talk (J) Peschardt’s People (J) Ho Chi Minh City to Hong Kong Ghos ts of Girlfriends Past [S] (J)(C) The Boys Are Back [T] (J)(C) Brothers and Sisters [T] (C) Royal Pains [T] (C) Frasier [T] (C) The Real (J) Click Peschardt’sHARDtalk(J)(J)People (J) Up in the Air (J)(C) The Blind Side [T] (C) ブラインド・サイド (J) The Invention of Lying (J)(C) Where the Wild Things Are (C) かいじゅうたちのいるところ (J) Fantastic Mr. Fox (J) 狐狸先生無得頂 (C) Everybody’s Fine [T] (J)(C) Whip It! ホイップ・イット！ (J) 滑蕩青春 (C) *The Boys Are Back [T] (J)(C) *East Coast/ORD only Fantastic Mr. Fox (J) 狐狸先生無得頂 (C) Everybody’s Fine [T] (J)(C) Whip It! ホイップ・イット！ (J) 滑蕩青春 (C) The Boys Are Back [T] (J)(C) Ghosts of Girlfriends Past [S] (J)(C) The Real (J) / Click (J) HARD talk (J) / Peschardt’s People (J) Hong Kong to Ho Chi Minh City EASTBOUND WESTBOUND Royal Pains [T] Chuck [T][V] The Middle [T] Up in the Air (G) The Blind Side [T] (G) The Invention of Lying (G) *Where the Wild Things Are (G) *West Coast only The Ment alist [T] Brothers and Sisters [T] 30 Rock [T] Fantastic Mr. Fox Der fantastische Mr. Fox (G) Everybody’s Fine [T] (G) Whip It! (G) *The Boys Are Back [T] (G) *West Coast only Up in the Air (G) The Blind Side [T] (G) The Invention of Lying (G) Where the Wild Things Are (G) Chuck [T][V] The Office [T] How Do They Do It? The Middle [T] Fantastic Mr. Fox (G) Everybody’s Fine [T] (G) Whip It! (G) The Boys Are Back [T] (G) Build It Bigger The Simpsons [T] Two and a Half Men [T] Click [T] AUSTRALIAGERMANY

FEATURING Catherine Keener, Max Records, Mark Ruffalo DIRECTED BY Spike Jonze

FEATURING Matt Damon, Scott Bakula, Joel McHale DIRECTED BY Steven Soderbergh

DIRECTED BY Mark Waters

THE INVENTION OF LYING

107HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAR CH 2010

WHERE THE WILD THINGS ARE

An adaptation of Maurice Sendak’s classic children’s story, in which Max, a disobedient little boy sent to bed without his supper, creates his own world—a forest inhabited by ferocious wild creatures that crown Max as their ruler.

FEATURING Matthew McConaughey, Jennifer Garner, Breckin Meyer

1 hr. 40 min.

UAL CORPORATION ONBOARD PHOTOGRAPHY AND VIDEO POLICY

United Airlines strives to make its customer experience safe and comfortable and accordingly has issued the following policy in regard to the use of personal audio and video equipment onboard its aircraft. This policy is not a contract and does not create any legal rights or obligations.

Customers who bring personal audio and video equipment onboard may only use these items with headsets. Noise-canceling headsets may be activated. The use of still and video cameras, film or digital, including any cellular or other devices that have this capability, is permitted only for recording of personal events. However, photography, audio, or video recording of other customers without their express prior consent is strictly prohibited. Also, unauthorized photography, audio, or video recording of airline personnel, aircraft equipment, or procedures is always prohibited. Any voice, audio, video, or other photography (motion or still), recording, or transmission while on any United Airlines aircraft is strictly prohibited, except to the extent specifically permitted by United Airlines (October 2009). Digital media loading occurs between the 25th and 5th of each month. As a result, please understand if your flight features a different line up before and after the start of each month.

FEATURING Clive Owen, Laura Fraser, George MacKay DIRECTED BY Scott Hicks 1 hr. 44 min.

1 hr. 46 min.

THE BOYS ARE BACK [T] This film follows a wisecracking sportswriter who, in the wake of his wife’s tragic death, finds himself a single parent. Raising two boys in a household devoid of feminine influence, and with an unabashed lack of rules, life becomes exuberant and reckless.

THE INFORMANT!

1 hr. 48 min.

GHOSTS GIRLFRIENDSOF PAST [S] Photographer Connor Mead loves freedom, fun and women—in that order. His mockery of romance is a buzz-kill for his brother, Paul, on the eve of Paul’s wedding. Just when it looks like Connor may ruin the wedding, he is visited by the ghosts of his former jilted girlfriends, who take him on an odyssey through his failed relationships.

1 hr. 38 min.

The Invention of Lying takes place in a world in which lying—even the concept of a lie—does not exist. But when Mark Bellison suddenly develops the ability to lie, he ﬁnds that dishonesty has its rewards. He lies his way to fame and fortune, but still can’t get the woman he loves.

FEATURING Ricky Gervais, Jennifer Garner, Jonah Hill DIRECTED BY Ricky Gervais, Matthew Robinson WHIP IT! Whip It! , the directorial debut of Drew Barrymore, stars Ellen Page as Bliss, a rebellious Texas teen who throws in her small town beauty pageant crown for the rowdy world of roller derby. Marcia Gay Harden plays Bliss’ disapproving mother, while Kristen Wiig and Juliette Lewis play roller-derby stars.

FEATURING Ellen Page, Jimmy Fallon, Daniel Stern DIRECTED BY Drew Barrymore

Based on the true story of Mark Whitacre, a rising corporate star at Archer Daniels Midland (ADM) in the early ’90s who secretly gathered hundreds of hours of tapes over several years to present to the FBI in what became one of the largest price ﬁxing cases in history.

1 hr. 41 min.

(S) Spanish (G) German (C) Chinese (J) Japanese [V] Violence [S] Sexual Situations [T] Adult Themes

L et United PassPlus® point your business in the right direction. Participating airline partners include: ©2010 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Business can take you anywhere at a moment’s notice, so it’s important to exercise control over your travel. United PassPlus is a pre-paid travel program that entitles frequent travelers and businesses to: booking flights ® access ® elite memberships, and more Wherever you venture on business, United PassPlus can make your travels more affordable and rewarding. To learn more or to sign up, visit united.com/passplus .

PROGRAMMINGAUDIO XM RADIO AND UNITED offer a sampling of XM’s exclusive music channels for your inflight enjoyment. Find your aircraft model on the grid below and review the selections on the channel listing. Everything worth listening to is now on XM. 109HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAR CH 2010 CH. *Live communication between the flight deck and FAA air-traffic control is offered. As you listen, your flight will be identified by its flight number. This feature is unique to United and may not be available on all flights. Available at your captain’s discretion. 777 2-CABIN A319 & A320 SELECT A320 747757 & 767 2-CABIN 737 17161512111054321687913141819 MOVIE Dubbed MOVIE Dubbed MOVIE English From the Flight Deck Children’s Programming Adult Contemporary HitsAdult Contemporary Hits Adult Contemporary Hits Top 20 Hits MOVIE English MOVIE Dubbed MOVIE Dubbed Children’s Programming Adult Contemporary Hits From the Flight Deck Smooth Jazz Top 20 Hits Unavailable From the Flight Deck Smooth Jazz Children’s Programming Adult Contemporary Hits MOVIE English Top 20 Hits From the Flight Deck New Age New Age Classic Rock Classic Rock New Alternative ’70s Hits ’70s Hits ’70s Hits’70s Hits ’70s Hits ’70s Hits Children’s Programming Children’s Programming MOVIE English Top 20 Hits Adult Contemporary Hits Classical Pops Classical Pops Classical Pops Classical Pops Classical Pops Modern Adult Hits Modern Adult Hits Modern Adult Hits Modern Adult Hits From the Flight Deck ’60s Hits ’60s Hits ’60s Hits’60s Hits’60s Hits ’60s Hits MOVIE English UnavailableUnavailableUnavailable Top 20 Hits Top 20 Hits Blues Classical Pops From the Flight Deck ’80s Hits ’80s Hits New Country Hits New Country Hits Adult Album Rock Adult Album Rock Smooth Jazz Smooth Jazz Smooth Jazz Smooth Jazz Classic Soul Today’s R&B Hits Modern Adult Hits Modern Adult Hits New Country Hits Children’s Programming New Country Hits

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Daughtry, No Doubt, Colbie Caillat, Plain Whit e T’s

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Rod Stewart, Billy Joel, Madonna, Eric Clapton TODAY’S R&B HITS R&B Hits from the ‘80s, ‘90s and today. Sounds that reach your Heart & Soul.

NEW COUNTRY HITS The Highway plays the very latest New Country, along with the biggest hits of the past few years.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR The Wiggles, Tom Chapin, Dan Zanes, They Might Be Giants

CLASSIC SOUL Soul Town is a celebration of the Motown, Stax and Atlantic record labels—vintage soul and classic R&B from the 1960s and ’70s.

CHILDREN’S PROGRAMMING Kids Place Live recordingplusmoviemixcontentaward-winningfeaturesoriginalblendedwithamusicofthemostpopularkids’andTVsoundtracks,Children’sProgramming’sartists.

CLASSICAL POPS Lis ten to classical music’s greatest hits and famous movie music, performed by renowned orchestras and soloists, on SIRIUS XM Pops. WHO YOU’LL HEAR Boston Pops, Cincinnati P ops, Andrea Bocelli, James Galway, Joshua Bell, John Philip Sousa

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Kenny Chesney, Taylor Swift, Carrie Underwood, Keith Urban, Rascal Flatts, Sugarland, Tim McGraw

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Weezer, The Raconteurs, The Bravery, Foo Fighters, Death Cab for Cutie, Jimmy Eat World ADULT ALBUM ROCK New music and classic tracks from artists who’ve stood the test of time, plus quality rock from credible new artists.

MODERN ADULT HITS It’ s the ’90s and now! Hear today’s pop hits from artists like Matchbox 20, Alanis Morissette, Maroon 5, Kelly Clarkson and the John Mayer. Feel the Pulse of adult pop!

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Enya, Brian Eno, Tangerine Dr eam, Kevin Braheny, Mark Isham, Suzanne Ciani

XM RADIO AND UNITED offer a sampling of XM’s exclusive music channels for your inﬂight enjoyment. Find your aircraft model on page 95 and review the selections on the channel listing. Everything worth listening to is now on XM.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Dave Koz, Diana Krall, George Benson, Sade, George Duke BLUES From the Delta, Chicago, New Orleans and more, B.B. King’s Bluesville covers more than 80 years of authentic blues.

TOP 20 HITS Top 20 on 20 plays just the songs you vote for. Cast your vote anytime at xmradio.com20on20.; then plug in and hear what’s hot.

NEW AGE Spa is a plac e of peace in a sometimes crazy world. It’s a beautiful place where you are soothed by dreamy, ﬂowing music.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Justin Timberlake, Fergie, Daughtry, Kanye West ADULT CONTEMPORARY HITS The Blend is the soundtrack of your life—a great mix of Lite pop hits from the ’70s through today; never any rap or rock.

’60S HITS The times they were a-changin’, and so was the music. ’60s on 6 revisits the British invasion and Woodstock with DJ Cousin Brucie. WHO YOU’LL HEAR The Beatles, Beach Boys, Bob Dylan ’80S HITS “Totally awesome” ’80s on 8 sounds like one of the great Top 40 stations of the time, with rock, rhythm and pop—plus hair bands and the original MTV VJs.

NEW ALTERNATIVE

WHO YOU’LL HEAR U2, Dave Matthews Band, Neil Young, Coldplay SMOOTH JAZZ Watercolors plays the best contemporary jazz instrumentals, classic and new, blended with just the right vocals. It’s contemporary crossover that’s always cool.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Michael Jackson, Dur an Duran, Cyndi Lauper, Prince, George Michael

WHO YOU’LL HEAR B.B. King, Buddy Guy, Etta James, Muddy Waters

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Mary J. Blige, Alicia Keys, Charlie Wilson, Jill Scott, Maxwell ’70S HITS ’70s on 7 takes you back to the days of bell bottoms and pet rocks, when the music was wider than rocksinger-songwritersever—fromandclassictoR&Banddisco. WHO YOU’LL HEAR Elton John, Donna Summer, The Eagles, Chicago, Fleetwood Mac CLASSIC ROCK Hold your ligh ters in the air. It’s all classic rock of the ’60s and ’70s, when music came on LPs. Drop the needle on Classic Vinyl. WHO YOU’LL HEAR Creedence Clearwater R evival, The Beatles, Pink Floyd, Lynyrd Skynyrd, Bad Company, Rolling Stones

The lat est alternative rock, best of the ’90s and the next big thing before it becomes so big you can’t stand it.

PROGRAMMINGAUDIO CHANNELS & ARTISTS

WHO YOU’LL HEAR James Brown, The Four Tops, Aretha Franklin, The Supremes

Get commercial-free music, live sports, news and exclusive entertainment through your existing vehicle radio with easy Do-It-Yourself installation. MUSIC · SPORTS · TALK · NEWS · ENTERTAINMENT EVERYTHING WORTH LISTENING TO IS ON *OFFER DETAILS: To qualify for Mileage Plus rewards on eligible radios, you must buy a prepaid recurring minimum Quarterly subscription plan to any XM Package (excluding A La Carte, Mostly Music, and News, Talk & Sports), together with the eligible radio by 3/31/10. You must activate your XM subscription on that radio no later than 3/31/10 with a valid credit card; pay an activation fee of $14.99 and any other fees and taxes that will apply to your subscription, maintain at least 12 months of continuous service, and retain that credit card on the account for automatic recurring service billing. Failure to maintain 12 months of continuous “minimum service commitment” for each radio will result in a $75 early cancellation fee per radio. Service will automatically renew for additional periods of the same length as the Plan you choose, at the then current renewal rate unless you cancel. Hardware sold separately. This offer may be modiﬁed or terminated at any time. Pricing, programming, schedule, and channel assignments are subject to change. Check xmradio.com for the latest updates. Subscriptions are governed by the XM Customer Agreement available at xmradio.com. XM Radio U.S. service available only in the 48 contiguous United States, and D.C., to those at least 18 years of age. © 2009 SIRIUS XM Radio Inc. SIRIUS, XM and all related marks and logos are trademarks of SIRIUS XM Radio Inc. and its subsidiaries. Apple, iPhone, iPod and iPod touch are registered trademarks of Apple Inc. All other marks, channel names and logos are the property of their respective owners. All rights reserved. 29190 United passengers can enjoy all of our exclusive entertainment anywhere and earn 4,000 bonus United Mileage Plus miles.* Visit www.xmradio.com/ua for full details. EARN 4,000 MILES

Portland Vancouver Seattle Boise San Jose Las Vegas LOS ANGELES San Diego SAN FRANCISCO Oakland DENVER Sacramento Salt Lake Phoenix/ScottsdaleTucsonCity Albuquerque Colorado Springs HoustonSan Antonio KansasWorthFortDallas/CityOmahaOklahomaAustinCity Bozeman Orange County Tulsa El Paso Honolulu Ontario Kahului MoinesMinneapoliDesSpringfiel Spokane WichitaLincoln Missoula Rapid City Reno/Tahoe CalgaryEdmonton Winnipeg Jackson Hole Kona 050100150Miles 050100150200Kilometers Burbank MontroseSpringsSteamboatHayden/ButteCrestedGunnison/Vail/Eagle Fargo Gillette Rock Springs CrescentEurekaCity AspenCarlsbadBakersfieldChico YellowstoneCody/ CasperFresnoEugene FallsSioux JunctionGrand Medford Pasco Palm Springs Santa Barbara InyokernImperial Monterey Oxnard San Luis SantaObispoMaria Yuma Modesto Redmond Redding Bismarck ArkansasNorthwest Great Falls Idaho Falls KalispellAnchorage Puerto Vallarta Los Cabos Mexico City Billings Victoria Helena FallsKlamath North Bend Saskatoon LakeMoses ReginaMidland/OdessaDurango HarlingenBrownsvilleCorpusChristiMcAllenLaredo Kingman Pierre ScottsbluffChadronAllianceLiberal Kearney Laramie Huron McCookDodgeCityGreat BendGarden City Hays Salina Manhattan Alamosa PuebloFarmingtonCortezTellurideLakePage/Powell Show Low Prescott Moab WorlandSheridan DickinsonMiles SidneyCityWillistonWolfGlasgowPoint Lewistown MercedVisalia Hilo Kapalua IslandGrand Vernal North Platte Cheyenne Riverton ROUTE MAPS NORTH AMERICAN CITIES United/United Express Route Cities served by United and United Express Cities served by Star Alliance or partner Code Share UNITED HUB Time zone boundary Route lines do not reﬂect actual ﬂight path

SpartanburgGreenville/WestOrlandoMiamiPalmBeachCharlestonSavannah Baltimore LouisvilleBirminghamMemphisMilwaukee Philadelphia St. Louis Tampa/St. Petersburg ClevelandCharlotte Detroit Jacksonville OrleansNew New York (La Guardia) (J.F. Norfolk/VirginiaKennedy)Beach Toronto Albany Atlanta Boston ColumbusColumbiaNashville RichmondRaleigh/Durham WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES) SpringfieldHartford/ Cincinnati ProvidencePortland Newark Greensboro/High Point/Winston-Salem LexingtonGrandRapids Ft.SyracuseLauderdale/HollywoodBuffalo/NiagaraFalls Knoxville Manchester Ft. Myers Indianapolis eapolis Dayton HarrisburgAllentown Madison Pittsburgh FoxAppleton/Cities Burlington IowaRapids/CedarCity Wausau WayneFt. Green Bay PlainsWhite LansingMidland/Saginaw Moline Rochester MishawakaBend/Elkhart/South gfield Charleston Traverse CityAkron/Canton CollegeStateWilkesScrantonBarre/Charlottesville Roanoke Springfield (Reagan National) San Juan Peoria AshevilleAugusta Halifax Ottawa Pensacola Tallahassee Myrtle Fayetteville/Ft.Beach Bragg GainesvilleHilton Head Island DecaturHuntsville/ JacksonvilleCorningIthaca/ Long Island/Islip New Bern Tri-Cities Regional BinghamtonWilmington 0100200300400Miles 0100200300400500600Kilometers Newport News/Williamsburg Greenvillewestsas RockLittle Antigua Punta Cana St. Kitts Providenciales St. Lucia Cozumel Santo Domingo St. Thomas St. Maarten Montego Bay Altoona ParkersburgBeckleyJohnstownShenandoahValleyClarksburgMorgantown FreeportNassau Grand Cayman Hamilton London Duluth Chattanooga BiloxiGulfport/ Huntington New Haven Williamsport City JacksonMobileMontgomery NewburghSalisbury Ft. BeachWalton Florence PaducahMuskegon RougeBaton North Eleuthera Key West BurlingtonWaynesville 113HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAR CH 2010

Sydney Brisbane CairnsPerthShanghaiBeijing San FranciscoFuzhouShenyangChengduChongqingGuangzhouShenzhen Los Angeles Queenstown Wellington Seattle Rarotonga Cook OsakaTokyoSendaiNagoyaHiroshima Okinawa Seoul Sapporo Fukuoka Hong Kong Delhi Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) Auckland Melbourne DunedinChristchurchNadi ApiaHonolulu Pusan BangkokHanoi Denver Dallas Singapore GuatemalSan Taipei Kota Kinabalu Phuket Komatsu Baotou Hangzhou Harbin WuhanNanjingQingdaoXiamen Ma Kuala Lumpur Kolkata Dalian Saipan Rotorua Guam ROUTE MAPS INTERNATIONAL CITIES United Route Code Share route serviced by a Star Alliance member Code Share route serviced by a United Partner Cities served by United, United Express and Code Share partners Time zone boundary Route lines do not reﬂect actual ﬂight path

PhiladelphiaMiami Aruba New YorkBoston Frankfurt Washington,CityBelize DC Rio de Janeiro Copenhagen Chicago Newark Addis Ababa Paris Chennai (Madras) Tel Aviv Kuwait Lagos MunichJohannesburgHouston Accra MumbaiBangalore Rome Delhi Amman Alma-AtaAmsterdamCape Town Madrid Stockholm London Dubai Abu Dhabi Muscat Vienna Atlantallas Detroit WarsawShannon Buenos Aires temala City an Salvador Brussels CairoAsmara Bahrain Dakar Lisbon EastDurbanLondon Porto Hyderabad Orlando Tbilisi Port Elizabeth Lima TegucigalpaCuzcoSanPedroSulaManagua PeshawarLahoreIslamabadCochinColomboTrivandrumLiberia Doha Abuja Karachi Geneva CuritibaBrasilia Fortaleza Manaus PortoBeloAlegreSalvadorHorizonteIguassu Falls Recife Dublin Moscow Charlotte JeddahRiyadh Sal Istanbul Belfast Manchester BirminghamBristol EdinburghBarcelonaGlasgow OsloHamburgMilanBerlin PanamaSantiagoCity Montevideo 115 Budapest LisbonPorto Turin Lyon Geneva LondonParis Oslo HamburgCopenhagen Brussels MilanFrankfurtHannoverNurembergVenicePisaRomeNaplesTrieste Istanbul Bucharest Kiev Vienna MunichPrague Warsaw Helsinki BerlinLuga Bremen GrazInnsbruck LinzKlagenfurtSalzburg Sofia Sarajevo Cologne Dresden Verona Vilnius Katowice MarseilleStuttgartNice Riga Stavanger Ancona Dublin BolognaFlorenceGenoa Stockholm Amsterdam Basel EdinburghAberdeen Belfast Birmingham Bergen Ankara Glasgow Manchester BelgradeSkopje ShannonCork AdanAntalya Izmir Leipzig HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAR CH 2010

What about my bag? Baggage is boarded on the next flight if space is available. This means your bags may arrive before you. United will secure the bag until you claim it. See a baggage claim representative. What if I have to stay overnight? If a flight is canceled to address a mechanical issue or another similar reason within our control, we CONNECTING Whether next flight is Star Alliance partners around the world, to plan connection. In addition to gate locations,

on United or one of the

Reservations 800-UNITED-1united.com (800-864-8331) Automated Flight Information 800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331) Mileage Plus 24-Hour Account Information & Award 800-UNITED-1united.com/mileageplusTravel(800-864-8331) Mileage Plus Visa Customer Service 800-537-7783united.com/chase Baggage Services 800-UNITED-1united.com/baggage(800-864-8331) Refunds 800-UNITED-1united.com/refunds(800-864-8331) TRAVEL ASSISTANCE FOR DELAYED OR CANCELED FLIGHTS

FLIGHT.

your

Flight

use the terminal diagrams on pages 116–120

these maps show ticket counters, United Red Carpet Clubs and interterminal transportation. CONTACT INFORMATION Customer Relations 800-UNITED-1united.comEmail:united.com/customerrelationscustomerrelations@(800-864-8331) Red Carpet Club™ 520-881-0500866-UA-CLUBSunited.com/redcarpetclub(toll-free)(outsidethe U.S.) Hearing Impaired (TDD) 800-323-0170 Language Assistance (Asian) 800-426-5560 Reservaciones en Español 800-426-5561 United Cargo 800-UA-CARGOunitedcargo.com(800-822-2746) United Services unitedsvcs.com Meetings Plus 800-MEET-UAL (800-633-8825) Duty Free World 6095 NW 167th St. Suite D-4 Miami, FL 33015 USA 800-668-6182 United Vacations 800-32-TOURSunitedvacations.com(800-328-6877) Charter an Airplane united.com/charter Small Package Same Day Shipping Small Package Dispatch (SPD)— Airport-to-airport service: 800-722-5243 Employment Opportunities 888-UAL-JOBSunited.com/jobs(888-825-5627) EasyCheck-in kiosks are located on the concourse to assist customers who have experienced a misconnection or canceled flight. Customers who have e-tickets and are traveling domestically may use the kiosk to: 1. Rebook on another flight 2. Obtain a boarding pass 3. Standby for the next flight to their destination will provide you with a hotel and meal voucher. For uncontrollable events—such as weather—we may be able to help you locate a local hotel at a discounted rate; however United does not cover hotel or meal expenses in this event. If we can not retrieve your checked bag, overnight kits containing toiletries are available. Please see an agent. What if the reason for my travel no longer exists? If as a result of the delay or cancelation you decide not to travel, call United reservations (1-800 UNITED-1) to get information on your options. Help us help you keep informed. Sign up for EasyUpdate®, our messaging service. If your flight is canceled or delayed, EasyUpdate® will inform you. Enroll at united.com/easyupdate. At home? Go to united. com for information or to check-in and print your boarding pass. Your safety and satisfaction are important. We appreciate your business and apologize for any inconvenience you may have experienced. DOMESTIC

INFORMATION & TERMINAL DIAGRAMS MAKING YOUR

At United Airlines, our priority is safety and keeping an on-time schedule. On occasion, canceling or delaying a flight is the only option to assure we maintain the highest safety standards. canceled? We automatically confirm you on the next United flight with available seats. EasyCheck-in® units located in the concourse will assist you with information and a boarding pass—it will also help you standby for an earlier United flight if one is scheduled. If you want to travel standby and aren’t boarded, we will transfer your name to the next United flight to your destination until you are onboard.

117HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAR CH 2010 WASHINGTON / DULLES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.IAD Concourse A Concourse C Air Canada ConcourseConcourseD B SouthAustrianContinentalANAAirlinesSASAfricanAirwaysUSAirwaysLufthansa MAIN TERMINAL Z GATES C2 C12 C18 C Connector Tunnel Train C24 C1A2A4A6 A14 A32 B37B79A1A3A5C9 C17 C27 D1D3D2 D8 D30 CHICAGO / O’HARE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.ORD TERMINALONE TERMINALTWO TERMINALTHREE Elevated Airport Transit System (ATS) PedestrianTunnel TERMINALFIVE InternationalArrivals Concourse F US Airways Concourse M Concourse E Air Canada Concourse B ContinentalLufthansa Concourse C ANA C1 B1 F1 F4 F11 F14 F10F6 E1 B6 B9 B18B14 B22 C17 C19 C18C24C32 C16 C8 Shuttle runs between Gates C9 and E3. E3 C9 United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Power Charging Station Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop / Train Stop United Easy Check-In Medical Center United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge International Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In United Easy Check-In Medical Center

TERMINAL DIAGRAMS DOMESTIC & OVERSEAS DENVER INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.DEN 57 TERMINALWEST TERMINALEAST Concourse C US Airways Concourse B Concourse A Air ContinentalCanadaLufthansa 2528261516 3736 35 41 3938 4950 60 80 919281 57 77 SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.SFO 72 Concourse G United Air New LufthansaANAZealandSingapore Concourse A Asiana Concourse B ContinentalUSAirways Concourse E Air CanadaConcourse F TERMINAL 1 TERMINAL 3 80798988 81 73International Terminal Secure Connector 76A78A 71 MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT. Whether your next ﬂight is on United or one of the Star Alliance partners around the world, use the terminal diagrams on pages 116–120 to plan your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters, United Red Carpet Clubs and interterminal transportation. TOM INTERNATIONALBRADLEYTERMINAL ThaiLufthansaAirwaysANASingaporeAsianaSwiss TERMINAL 3TERMINAL 2 Air Canada Air New Zealand TERMINAL 1 US Airways TERMINAL 4TERMINAL 5TERMINAL 6 Continental TERMINAL 7TERMINAL 8 67A69A 68B64 75A71A 7672 888070A 124B LOS ANGELES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.LAX United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Premier Check-In Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop United Easy Check-In United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite International Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Power Charging Station United Easy Check-In Medical Center United Gate InternationalAreaArrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Interterminal Train Stop United Easy Check-In

TERMINAL 4 TERMINAL 5 TERMINAL 3 TERMINAL 1 TERMINAL 2 37 39 43 56 50 4236 LONDON / HEATHROW INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTLHR 119HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAR CH 2010 FRANKFURT INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTFRA B300-B303 B332-B340 TERMINAL ONE Pier A, Level 3 Gates A51-A65 Pier B Pier C C5 B20 B24 B26 B28 B48 B46 B44 C1 C7 C8 Pedestrian Transfer Tunnel Train to Terminal 2 Lufthansa Tower Lounge Level 5 TOKYO / NARITA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTNRT Satellite 3 Satellite Satellite2 1 Satellite 5 Satellite 4 TERMINAL 1 313743 47 38 32 North Wing South WingPedestrianTunnel Third Floor Zone A ZoneFourthD Floor United Gate Area United Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop United Gate InterterminalAreaTrain Stop Medical Center United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Premier Check-In Medical Center

TERMINAL DIAGRAMS STAR ALLIANCE United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite International Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Power Charging Station Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop / Train Stop United Easy Check-In Medical Center US AIRWAYS HUBS CONTINENTAL HUBS CHARLOTTE DOUGLAS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTCLT PHOENIX SKY HARBOR INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTPHX PHILADELPHIA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTPHL CLEVELAND HOPKINS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTCLE B3C2 D2 D6 D10 D14 D17 D21 D25 D28 C7C14 C16C19 C22 C25 C29 C10 C4 Concourse C Continental Concourse B United Concourse A Concourse D Continental Pedestrian Tunnel NEWARK LIBERTY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTEWR AirTrain AirTrain connects to Amtrak and New Jersey Transit. 130127136 102101115 72 887571 B3 B2 B1 A1A2 A380 98 92 TERMINAL A ContinentalUnited TERMINAL B TERMINAL C Continental HOUSTON GEORGE BUSH INTERCONTINENTAL AIRPORTIAH TerminaLink connects B, C, D and E. It is above ground transportation between terminals while inside security. TerminaLink Shuttle Bus TERMINAL A United TERMINAL B TERMINALS A-E Continental TERMINAL CTERMINAL E TERMINAL D A25-30A3-15A17-24 B76-83 B84-91 C34-42C14-23 E1-9 E10-14E15-24B68-75 B60-67 Concourse A United Concourse BConcourse C Concourse D ConcourseConcoursesE B-E US Airways 24 Continuous shuttle bus pickup and drop-off between Gates F10 and C16. Concourse A West Concourse A East Concourse BConcourse C Concourse D United Concourses A, B, C & F US Airways Concourse E Concourse F 1 7 13 To transfer between terminals, catch the interterminal bus curbside. Concourse A Concourse B Concourse B International TERMINAL 4 US Airways TERMINAL 2 United 71

ALLIANCES AND PARTNERSHIPS

EARN RECOGNITION AROUND THE WORLD The more miles you fly with United and the Star Alliance airlines, the higher your Mileage Plus elite status can be: Premier®, Premier Executive® or 1K®. Mileage Plus elite status is recognized across the alliance as either Star Alliance Silver or Star Alliance Gold, with travel benefits worldwide. See united.com/staralliance for the Star Silver and Star Gold benefits you can receive.

REGIONAL ALLIANCE PARTNERS

EARN MILEAGE PLUS® MILES AND ELITE STATUS FASTER

Aer Lingus Air HawaiianGreatEmiratesContinentalDolomitiConnectionLakesAirlines

STAR ALLIANCE PARTNERS

With the largest airline alliance, you can earn miles almost anywhere in the world you fly. Miles can be earned on most fares on almost every Star Alliance flight and can be credited to your Mileage Plus account. Plus the flight miles you earn will count toward elite status in Mileage Plus. See united.com/airpartners for details.

Island Air Jet TAMTACAQatarAirwaysAirwaysGroup You can earn and redeem miles on many of our Regional Alliance Partners. See united.com/airlinepartners for speciﬁc information about each of our Regional Alliance Partners.

121HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAR CH 2010

STAR ALLIANCE Established in 1997 as the ﬁrst truly global airline alliance to offer customers a worldwide travel network that aims to provide customers a seamless travel experience across multiple airlines. Today the Star Alliance network offers more than 18,900 daily ﬂights to 983 destinations in 169 countries.

ENJOY A WORLD OF STAR ALLIANCE CONNECTIONS AND PRIVILEGES. Earn or redeem Mileage Plus miles when you ﬂy on any Star Alliance member carrier. The ﬂight miles you earn qualify toward elite status for next year. As a Mileage Plus member, your status is recognized on all the Star Alliance Carriers. For more information, go to united.com/staralliance.

AWARD TRAVEL IS NOW EASIER With Star Alliance Awards, you can use your Mileage Plus miles for award travel on any Star Alliance carrier worldwide. Or use them for Star Alliance Upgrade Awards—upgrade to a premium cabin and travel in comfort (available on most Star Alliance airlines).

poisons, infectious substances NOTE There are special exceptions for small quantities of up to 70 oz. (2 kg or 2 liters) of medicinal and toilet articles carried in your luggage. For further information, check with any airline representative. IMPORT RESTRICTIONS Please note new controls on the import of meat, ﬁsh, plants and their products into the United Kingdom and European Union. Check the advisory notices displayed in the baggage hall for a detailed explanation of these restrictions. If you possess any of these items, please declare them to customs in the red channel to avoid legal consequences.

&CUSTOMSIMMIGRATION ENTRY CUSTOMSREGULATIONSDECLARATION ENGLISH All passengers (or one per family) are required to complete the Customs Declaration forms prior to arrival in the U.S. The forms will be distributed inflight and should include all personal data in English and in capital letters. Please ensure you sign your name. SPANISH/ESPAÑOL Todos los pasajeros (o uno por cada familia) tienen que llenar los formularios de Declaración de Aduanas antes de llegar a los EE.UU. Los formularios se distribuirán durante el veulo y deben incluir todos sus datos personales en inglés y con letras mayúsculas. No olvide firmar en el reverso del formulario. 1. Apellido, Nombre, Segundo nombre 2. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) 3. Cuántos familiares viajan con usted 4. (a) Dirección en los EE.UU. (nombre del hotel/lugar) (b) Ciudad, (c) Estado 5. Pasaporte expedido en (páis) 6. Número del pasaporte 7. País de residencia 8. Países que visitó durante este viaje antes de su llegada a los EE.UU. 9. Línea aérea/número de vuelo o nombre del barco 10. El propósito principal de este viaje es de negocios: Sí / No 11. Traigo (Traemos) (a) frutas, plantas, alimentos, insectos:Sí/No (b) carnes, animales, productos de animales o silvestres: Sí / No (c) agentes de enfermedades, cultivos celulares, caracoles:Sí / No (d) tierra o he (hemos) estado en finca/ granja/pastizales: Sí / No 12. He (Hemos) estado en cercanías de ganado (tocando o manipulándolo): Sí / No 13. Llevo (Llevamos) divisas o instrumentos monetarios por valor superior a $10,000 o su equivalente en moneda extranjera (Véase la definición de instrumentos monetarios alSídorso):/No 14. Tengo (Tenemos) mercancías comerciales (artículos para la venta, muestras para solicitar pedidos o bienes que no constituyen efectos personales):Sí/No 15. Residentes—el valor total de todos los bienes, incluidas las mercancías comerciales que he (hemos) comprado en el extranjero, (incluyendo regalos para otras personas, pero sin incluir los artículos enviados por correo a los EE.UU.) y que estoy (estamos) introduciendo en los EE.UU. es de: Visitantes—el$___ valor total de todos los artículos que permanecerán en los EE.UU., incluidas las mercancías comerciales, es de: $___ ENGLISH Prior to arrival in the U.S., all foreign nationals (except Canadian citizens and U.S. permanent residents or nationals of countries entitled to the Visa Waiver Program—see I-94W on next page) are required to complete an I-94 form. One form is required for each family member. Customers should complete all personal and travel-related information included on the front side of the form. Please do not write on the back side of the form. All information should be written in capital letters and in English. You are required to keep this form until your departure from the U.S. SPANISH / ESPAÑOL Antes de su llegada a los Estados Unidos, todos los ciudadanos extranjeros (excepto los ciudadanos de Canadá y los residentes permanentes en los Estados Unidos o ciudadanos de los países que tienen el Programa “Visa Waiver”—Ver formulario I-94W en hoja adjunta) tienen que llenar un formulario I-94. Hay que rellenar un formulario por cada miembro de la familia. Los pasajeros llenarán toda la información personal y relativa al viaje que se incluye en el anverso del formulario. Le rogamos que no escriba en el reverso del formulario. Toda la información debe estar escrita con letras mayúsculas y en inglés. Le rogamos que guarde este formulario hasta que salga de los Estados Unidos. 1. Apellido 2. Nombre 3. Fecha de (Día/Mes/Año)nacimiento 4. País de ciudadanía 5. Sexo (masculino o femenino) 6. Fecha de emisión del pasaporte 7. Fecha de vencimiento del pasaporte 8. Número de pasaporte 9. Aerolínea y número de vuelo 10. País donde vives 11. País en el que abordaron 12. Ciudad donde obtuvo el visado 13. Fecha del visado (Día/Mes/Año) 14. Direccion donde se quedará en los EE.UU (Número, calle) 15. Ciudad y Estado 16. Teléfono de contacto en EE.UU. 17. Dirección de correo electrónico 18. Apellido 19. Nombre 20. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) 21. Pais de ciudadanía ENGLISH Effective January 12, 2009, all passengers who intend to travel to the United States without a U.S. Visa under the terms of the Visa Waiver Program must obtain an electronic preauthorization or ESTA in advance of travel. When planning international travel, please be sure that you are in possession of all required documents. Remember to allow ample time for acquiring official travel documents. For complete information on the requirements, and to apply for ESTA, please visit www. cbp.gov/esta. HAZARDOUS MATERIALS The following items are considered hazardous materials. Do not pack in checked or carry-on luggage. FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS OR SOLIDS Fuel, paints, solvents, lighter fluid, matches WEAPONS Loaded firearms, ammunition, gunpowder, Mace, tear gas, pepper spray HOUSEHOLD ITEMS Drain cleaners and solvents COMPRESSED GASES Spray can, butane fuel, oxygen bottles FIREWORKS Firecrackers, sparklers or explosives OTHER HAZARDOUS MATERIALS Dry ice, gasoline-powered tools, camping equipment with fuel, wet cell batteries, oxidizers, corrosives, radioactive materials, DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection OMB No. 1651-0111 OMB No. 1651-0111 CBP Form I-94 (05/08) CBP Form I-94 (05/08) CBP Form I-94 (05/08) STAPLE HERESee Other Side Admission Number Arrival Record 000000000 00 Departure Record 000000000 00 1. Family Name 2. First (Given) Name 3. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY) 4. Country of Citizenship 5. Sex (Male or Female) 8. Passport Number 9. Airline and Flight Number 10. Country Where You Live 11. Country Where You Boarded 12. City Where Visa Was Issued 13. Date Issued (DD/MM/YY) 14. Address While in the United States (Number and Street) 16. Telephone Number in the U.S. Where You Can be Reached 17. Email Address 18. Family Name 19. First (Given) Name 20. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY) 21. Country of Citizenship DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection 15. City and State 6. Passport Issue Date (DD/MM/YY)7. Passport Expiration Date (DD/MM/YY) Welcome to the United States I-94 Arrival/Departure Record Instructions This form must be completed by all persons except U.S. Citizens, returning resident aliens, aliens with immigrant visas, and Canadian Citizens visiting or in transit. Type or print legibly with pen in ALL CAPITAL LETTERS. Use English. Do not write on the back of this form. This form is in two parts. Please complete both the Arrival Record (Items 1 through 17) and the Departure Record (Items 18 through 21). When all items are completed, present this form to the CBP Officer. Item 9 - If you are entering the United States by land, enter LAND in this space. If you are entering the United States by ship, enter SEA in this space. 5 U.S.C. § 552a(e)(3) Privacy Act Notice: Information collected on this form is required by Title 8 of the U.S. Code, including the INA (8 U.S.C. 1103, 1187), and CFR 235.1, 264, and 1235.1. The purposes for this collection are to give the terms of admission and document the arrival and departure of nonimmigrant aliens to the U.S. The information solicited on this form may be made available to other government agencies for law enforcement purposes or to assist DHS in determining your admissibility. All nonimmigrant aliens seeking admission to the U.S., unless otherwise exempted, must provide this information. Failure to provide this information may deny you entry to the United States and result in your removal. I-94 ARRIVAL / DEPARTURE RECORD

HAZARDOUS MATERIALS NOTICE & IMPORT RESTRICTIONSELECTRONIC SYSTEM FOR TRAVEL AUTHORIZATION

SPANISH / ESPAÑOL

A partir del 12 de enero de 2009, todos los pasajeros que quieran viajar a los EE.UU. (entre los terminos del programa de no tener que usar la Visa) tendran que obtener una preautorización electronica o ESTA antes de viajar. Cuando estés coordinando viajes internacionales, este seguro que tenga todos los documentos requerídos. No se olvide de dejar tiempo suﬁciente para adquirir los documentos oﬁciales de viaje. Para información completa sobre todos los requisitos, y para aplicar para ESTA, por favor visite www.cbp.gov/esta.

Eversion: With foot on ﬂoor, gently roll the sole of the foot inward. Repeat with other foot.

Inversion: With foot on ﬂoor, gently roll the sole of the foot outward. Repeat with other foot.

Do any of the following apply to you? (Answer Yes or No) Do you have communicable disease; physical or mental disorder, or are you drug abuser or addict? Have you ever been arrested or convicted for an offense or crime involving moral turpitude or a violation related to a controlled substance; or been arrested or convicted for two or more offenses for which the aggregate sentence to confinement was five years or more; or been controlled substance trafficker, or are you seeking entry to engage in criminal or immoral activities? Have you ever been or are you now involved in espionage or sabotage; or in terrorist activities; or genocide; or between 1933 and 1945 were involved, in any way, in persecutions associated with Nazi Germany or its allies? Are you seeking to work in the U.S.; or have ever been excluded and deported; or been previously removed from the United States; or procured or attempted to procure visa or entry into the U.S. by fraud or Havemisrepresentation?youeverdetained, retained or withheld custody of child from a U.S. citizen granted custody of the child? Have you ever been denied a U.S. visa or entry into the U.S. or had a U.S. visa cancelled? If yes, when? ______________________ where? _________________________ Have you ever asserted immunity from prosecution? Yes NoF.E.D.C.B.A.

FlightDate:Port: No./Ship Name: Paperwork Reduction Act Statement: An agency may not conduct or sponsor an information collection and person is not required to respond to this information unless it displays current valid OMB control number. The control number for this collection is 1651-0111. The estimated average time to complete this application is minutes per respondent. If you have any comments regarding the burden estimate you can write to U.S. Customs and Border Protection, Asset Management, 1300 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW, Washington DC 20229

Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes No IMPORTANT: If you answered “Yes” to any of the above, please contact the American Embassy BEFORE you travel to the U.S. since you may be refused admission into the United States. Family Name (Please print) First Name Country of CitizenshipSignature Date

Knee Extension: Straighten knee, increasing the amount of joint space at the back of the knee to its full range. Repeat with other leg.

DECLARACIÓN: Declaro que he leído y entendido todas las preguntas y enunciados enumerados en esta solicitud, y que las respuestas que he propocionado en este formulario son verdaderas y correctas a mi mejor saber y entender. other government agencies for law enforcement purposes or to assist DHS in determining your admissibility. All nonimmigrant aliens seeking admission to the U.S., unless otherwise exempted, must provide this information. Failure to provide this information may deny you entry to the United States and result in your removal.

Admission Number Government Use Only Departure Record VISA WAIVER 00000000000 Admission Number Arrival Record VISA WAIVER 6. Passport Issue Date (DD/MM/YY) 7. Passport Expiration Date (DD/MM/YY) Departure

WAIVER OF RIGHTS: hereby waive any rights to review or appeal of a U.S. Customs and Border Protection officer’s determination as to my admissibility, or to contest, other than on the basis of an application for asylum, any action in deportation.

Plantar Flexion: Lift the heel and keep toes pointed toward the ﬂoor, increasing the angle between the top of the foot and front of the leg. Repeat with other foot.

STAYING FIT: INFLIGHT FLEXIBILITY I-94 NONIMMIGRANT VISA WAIVER / FRONT I-94 NONIMMIGRANT VISA WAIVER / BACK 123HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAR CH 2010

SPANISH / ESPAÑOL Antes de su llegada en los Estados Unidos, los ciudadanos extranjeros (excepto ciudadanos Canadienses y residentes permanentes de los Estados Unidos) que no tengan un visado de visita y se acojan al programa “Visa Waiver”, tienen que completar el formulario I-94W. Se requiere un formulario por cado miembro de familia. Los pasajeros deberán rellenar toda información tanto personal como relacionada con viajes en el anverso de la tarjeta. Por favor, asegúrese de contestar todas las preguntas , firmen y pongan la fecha en el lugar indicado en el formulario. Todos los pasajeros deben proporcionar una dirección en Estados Unidos para entrar al país. Los países que participan del Programa de exención de visas son los siguientes: Alemania. Andorra, Australia, Austria, Bélgica, Brunei, *Corea del Sur, Dinamarca, *Eslovaquia, Eslovenia, Espána, *Estonia, Finlandia, Francia, *Hungría, Irlanda, Islandia, Italia, Japón, *Letonia, Liechtenstein, * Lituania, Luxemburgo, *Malta, Mónaco, Noruega, Nueva Zelandia, Países Bajos, Portugal,*República Checa, San Marino, Singapur, Suecia, Suiza y el Reino Unido. *Los ciudadanos de estos países deben presentar un electrónicos (e-ppt) pasaporte para ser elegible para del Programa de exención de visas de Estados Unidos. Los ciudadanos de los demás países exentos de visas deben presentar un pasaporte de lectura electrónica en el marco del Programa de exención de visas de Estados Unidos a partir del 26 de octubre de 2004. Apellido 2. Nombre 3. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) Nacionalidad Sexo (varón/hembra) 6. Fecha de emisión del pasaporte 7. Fecha de vencimiento del pasaporte 8. Número de pasaporte 9. Aerolínea y número de vuelo 10. País de residencia 11. País en el que abordó 12. Direccion donde se quedará en los EE.UU (Número, calle) 13. Ciudad y Estado 14. Teléfono de contacto en EE.UU. 15. Dirección de correo electrónico SPANISH / ESPAÑOL ¿Le afecta alguna de estas restricciones a usted? (Conteste Si o No) A. ¿Padece usted de alguna enfermedad contagiosa, deficiencia física o mental, o es adicto a las drogas? Sí / No B. ¿Ha sido usted arrestado o condenado por alguna infracción o delito de depravación moral; o por una violación relacionada con estupefacientes; arrestado o condenado por dos o más infracciones cuya sentencia total de reclusión fuera igual o superior a cinco años; ha sido traficante de estupefacientes, o pretende entrar en los Estados Unidos para realizar actividades criminales o inmorales? Sí / No C. ¿Ha estado o está implicado en actos de espionaje o sabotaje, actividades terroristas o genocidios; o participó de algún modo entre 1933 y 1945 en persecuciones relacionadas con la Alemania nazi o sus aliados? Sí / No D. ¿Tiene intención de trabajar en los Estados Unidos; ha sido excluido o deportado; o ha sido expulsado de los Estados Unidos, o ha obtenido o intentado obtener un visado o la entrada a los Estados Unidos por medios fraudulentos o dando información falsa? Sí / No E. ¿Ha detenido, retenido, o impedido la custodia de un niño que corresponda legalmente a un ciudadano de los Estados Unidos? Sí / No F. ¿Se le ha cancelado o denegado alguna vez el visado o la entrada en los Estados Unidos? En caso afirmitavo, especifique? Sí / No ¿Cúando? ¿Dónde? G. ¿Ha hecho valer alguna vez su inmunidad frente a un procesamiento? Sí / No IMPORTANTE: Si ha contestado afirmativamente alguna de las preguntas, comuníquese con la Embajada de los Estados Unidos ANTES de su viaje, ya que se le puede denegar la entrada en los Estados Unidos.

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection OMB No. 1651-0111 OMB No. 1651-0111 CBP Form I-94W (05/08) CBP Form I-94W (05/08) STAPLE HERESee Other Side 00000000000 1. Family Name 2. First (Given) Name 3. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY) 4. Country of Citizenship 5. Sex (Male or Female) 8. Passport Number 9. Airline and Flight Number 10. Country Where You Live 11. City Where You Boarded 12. Address While in the United States (Number and Street) 13. City and State 14. Telephone Number in the U.S. Where You Can be Reached 15. Email Address 18. Family Name 19. First (Given) Name 20. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY) 21. Country of Citizenship 5 U.S.C. 552a(e)(3) Privacy Act Notice: Information collected on this form is required by Title 8 of the U.S. Code, including the INA (8 U.S.C. 1103, 1187), and 8 CFR 235.1, 264, and 1235.1. The purposes for this collection are to give the terms of admission and document the arrival and departure of nonimmigrant aliens to the U.S. The information solicited on this form may be made available to

Welcome to the United States I-94W Nonimmigrant Visa Waiver Arrival/Departure Record Instructions This form must be completed by every nonimmigrant visitor not in possession of a visitor’s visa, who is a national of one of the countries enumerated in 8 CFR 217. The airline can provide you with the current list of eligible countries. Type or print legibly with pen in ALL CAPITAL LETTERS. USE ENGLISH This form is in two parts. Please complete both the Arrival Record (Items 1 through 15) and the Departure Record (Items 18 through 21). The reverse side of this form must be signed and dated. Children under the age of fourteen must have their form signed by a parent or Itemguardian.9If you are entering the United States by land, enter LAND in this space. If you are entering the United States by ship, enter SEA in this space. Record

RENUNCIA DE DERECHOS: Por la presente renuncio el derecho a solicitar la revisión del Oﬁcial de Inmigración acerca de mi admisión en los Estados Unidos, o a apelarla, o a impugnar cualquier acto de deportación que no sea por razón de una solicitud de asilo.

Important – Retain this permit in your possession; you must surrender it when you leave the U.S. Failure to do so may delay your entry into the U.S. in the future. You are authorized to stay in the U.S. only until the date written on this form. To remain past this date, without permission from Department of Homeland Security authorities, is a violation of the law. Surrender this permit when you leave the U.S.: By sea or air, to the transportation line; Across the Canadian border, to Canadian Official; Across the Mexican border, to U.S. Official. Warning: You may not accept unauthorized employment; or attend school; or represent the foreign information media during your visit under this program. You are authorized to stay in the U.S. for 90 days or less. You may not apply for: 1) a change of nonimmigrant status; 2) adjustment of status to temporary or permanent resident, unless eligible under section 201(b) of the INA; or 3) an extension of stay. Violation of these terms will subject you to deportation. Any previous violation of this program, including having previously overstayed on this program without proper DHS authorization, will result in a finding of inadmissibility as outlined in Section 217 of the Immigration and Nationality Act.

Knee Flexion: Lift knee toward chest, decreasing the amount of joint space at back of the knee. Repeat with other leg.

Dorsiﬂexion: With heel on ﬂoor, point toes upward, decreasing the angle between the foot and front of the leg. Repeat with other foot.

CERTIFICATION: certify that have read and understand all the questions and statements on this form. The answers have furnished are true and correct to the best of my knowledge and belief.

ENGLISH Prior to arrival in the United States, foreign nationals (except Canadian citizens and U.S. permanent residents) who are not in possession of a visitors visa and are entitled to the Visa Waiver Program are required to complete the I-94W form. One form is required for each family member. Customers should complete all personal and travel-related information included on the front side of the card. Please ensure that you answer all questions and sign and date where indicated on the back side of this form. All customers must provide a U.S. address for Countriesentry.that are participants of the Visa Waiver Program are as follows: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, *Czech Republic, Denmark, *Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, *Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, *Latvia, Liechtenstein, *Lithuania, Luxembourg, *Malta, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, *Slovakia, Slovenia, *South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, the United Kingdom. *Nationals of these countries must present an electronic (e-ppt) passport to be eligible for the U.S. Visa Waiver Program.

Nationals of all Visa Waiver countries must present a machine-readable passport for the U.S. Visa Waiver Program.

CROSSWORD IF YOU FILL IN THE CROSSWORD PLEASE TAKE THE MAGAZINE WITH YOU SO IT’S REPLACED. // ANSWERS FOUND ON P. 68 ACROSS 1. Overcharge 5. Throw casually 8. Shape with an axe 11. Quick on the uptake 14. Venus de Milo’s lack 18. reflection 19. The night before 20. Time period 21. Apply 22. Castle defense 23. Famous Italian bike race 24. Hearing protection 26. Type of whiskey 27. Insect stage 28. Reindeer feature 30. Power system 31. Diplomat’s forte 32. Wrinkly fruit 33. Kingdom 34. Nitrous 36. Irreligious 38. Open 42. Cross 44. Binge 47. For one 48. The good life 49. Chompers 53. “I challenge you to a ” 54. Fatigued 56. Mudguard 59. Game piece 60. Aroma, in the U.K. 62. Zinger 64. Knowing about 65. Rare find 66. Look down on 68. Intense anger 69. Wander 71. Freudian topic 72. A periodically repeated sequence of events 75. Female antelope 76. Baseball’s nine 80. Objective 81. in a teapot 85. “Who we kidding?” 86. Navy commando 87. Hullabaloo 89. New Mexico’s state flower 90. Chicken 91. A forgotten office worker 93. Web site? 95. “Take !” 96. Reply to a knock 98. Allocate, with “out” 100. Bit 101. Hither’s partner 102. Fuel volume measuring tool 105. A drama set to music 107. The legal dissolution of a marriage 110. Educate 112. The soft tissue of the body 117. Pass over 118. Shot, for short 120. Catch 122. Record player 123. Wise men 124. Future fish 125. Winter tanning solution 127. Pavarotti solo 128. Support 129. Slip 130. Miner’s find 131. Luau souvenir 132. Dance partner 133. Nitwit 134. Hair colorer 135. Part of a price 136. Bristle 137. Deuce topper DOWN 1. Brown or white maybe? 2. Express a thought 3. It comes from the heart 4. Small hill 5. Lecherous look 6. Egg cells 7. Shipping hazard 8. Coil 9. Learned 10. Happy dogs do this 11. Heavenly glow 12. Consciousness 13. Wobble 14. Person with a limb removed 15. Unsmooth 16. Syrup flavor 17. A symbol of disgrace or infamy 25. Foretelling events as if by interventionsupernatural 29. Relative of an ostrich 31. Make fun of 35. Conscription 37. Study of celestial bodies 39. Fishing aid 40. terrier 41. One to grow on? 43. Secreted by certain snakes 44. Martial art 45. Ages 46. Protein 50. Fringe or border 51. Wedding cake feature 52. Fold over and sew 53. A Word file maybe? 55. Small boat 57. Some forensic evidence 58. Short composition for a solo instrument 61. Record holder 63. Review 67. Bank contents 70. Second to the Sheriff 73. Former Italian currency 74. Worked up 76. Caddie’s offering 77. Counter call 78. Cumberland 79. Lowlife 81. Humdrum 82. Lingering effect 83. Glance over 84. Tit for 85. Gibbon, for one 87. Give voice to 88. Mounted on 92. Melee 94. Elevator part 97. Swellhead 99. Wipeout? 103. Frightened BRUCEGREGBYCROSSWORDPUZZLESPUZPUZ©104. Computer storage 106. Back on board 107. Vaulted 108. Insect stage 109. Watch 111. Kind of tube 113. Smallest 114. It may get you to first base 115. Saint-Germain’s river 116. Hero sandwich 119. Being nothing more than specified 121. Apple variety 122. Wheel of Fortune choice 125. Absorb, with “up” 126. Kitten’s cry 124 MARCH 2010 | UNITED .COM LAUNDRY DAY ALL THEME CLUES ARE IN BOLD Coins, HeirloomsGuns,CamerasPhotosInventoryCard, Legal PaperCollectionsJewelry, Records,SentimentalsInvestmentsSafe from Fire and Theft CALL US TODAY FOR YOUR FREE 1-800-821-5216BROCHURE 993 North Industrial Park Road, Orem Utah 84057 RESTwww.FtKnox.comASSURED

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MARCH 2010 | UNITED .COM 130 PHOTOGRAPH BY SPENCER HEYFRON

“If I were trying to sell mutual funds, I’d change my look, but I am what I am.”

ABOUT THAT STYLE / I don’t work on Wall Street; I sell hand-designed furniture. If I were trying to sell mutual funds, I’d change my look, but I am what I am. BY ADAM K. RAYMOND GETTING TO KNOW YOU in transit

À LA CARTE $ 3 AVAILABLE ALL DAY ON FLIGHTS OVER 2 HOURS Pringles Potato Chips Ghirardelli Luxe Milk Chocolate Bar Fisher Salty Nut Mix Walkers Chocolate Chip or Shortbread Cookies Clif Oatmeal Raisin Walnut Bar mySmoothie Fruit Smoothie Beverage EasyPurchasePAYMENT Only credit/debit cards are accepted. Alcohol may be served to customers over 21 only. By FAA rule, we may not serve alcohol to customers who appear intoxicated. Customers are limited to one alcoholic beverage at a time during service. Only alcohol provided by United and served by flight attendants may be consumed onboard. PREMIUM COCKTAILS $ 8 Trader Vic’s Mai Tai (served on Hawaii flights to/from the mainland) Jose Cuervo Margarita PREMIUM SPIRITS $ 8 Glenlivet Single Malt Scotch Whisky Maker’s Mark Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whisky SPIRITS $ 6 Bacardi CanadianRumClub Reserve Whisky Dewar’s White Label Scotch Finlandia Vodka Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey Jim Beam Black Bourbon Whiskey Tanqueray Gin LIQUEURS $ 6 Bailey’s Irish Cream Courvoisier VSOP Cognac Kahlúa PREMIUM WINE $ 7 - $ 8 RED - Cheviot Bridge Shiraz 2008 South Eastern Australia $ 7 WHITE - Cheviot Bridge Chardonnay 2008 Adelaide Hills Australia $ 7 SPARKLING - Rotari Talento Brut Sparkling Wine $ 8 WINE $ 6 RED - Redwood Creek Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 California WHITE - Redwood Creek Chardonnay 2007 California PREMIUM BEER $ 7 Leinenkugel’s Sunset Wheat Beer BEER $ 6 Miller Genuine Draft Miller Lite SPIRITS, WINE and BEER AVAILABLE ON ALL FLIGHTS, ALL DAY CLASSIC $ 6 Kettle Backyard BBQ Chips Oreo Cookies Jelly Belly G ourmet Jelly Beans Pepperidge Farm Goldfish Crackers Sparrer Beef Salami Gourmet Cheddar Che ese Spread Pepperidge Farm Crackers LUXE $ 7 Rondelé Peppercorn Parmesan Cheese Spread Pepperidge Farm Crackers Food Should Taste Good Multigrain Tortilla Chips Wild Garden Hummus Dip Oloves Mediterranean or Vinaigrette Olives Real Torino Sesame Breadsticks Asher’s Dark Chocolate Pretzel ORGANIC $ 7 Late July Organic Cheddar Cheese Crackers Terra Nostra O rganic Dark Chocolate Square Kettle Valley Organic Fruit Snack Nature’s Path Organic Pumpkin Fla xplus Granola Bare Fruit Organic Cinnamon Apple Chips SNACKBOXES AVAILABLE ALL DAY ON FLIGHTS OVER 2 HOURS UNITED ECONOMY - NORTH AMERICA WELCOME ABOARD! We are pleased to offer Choice Menu meal and snack selections for purchase in United Economy® on most North America flights. This month we are happy to introduce the Eat For Good SM snackbox. With every purchase of an Eat For Good snackbox, United will donate $1.00 to support a critical cause-related organization. Enjoy the service and thank you for flying with United. EAT FOR GOOD $ 7* * $1 donated to Feeding America® Bumble Bee Chicken Salad Pepperidge Farm Crackers Kettle Classics Plain Chips Immaculate Baking Chocolate Chip Cookies High Energy Trail Mix Vitalit Antioxidant Drink Mix NEW saladcaesarchicken

Specially selected cheeses includin g monterey jack, havarti dill and cheddar, dried cranberries, almonds and assorted Pepperidge Farm crackers.

ASSORTED CHEESE TRAY $ 6

Grilled chicken, red and yellow bell pepper strips, shredded parmesan cheese on a bed of crisp romaine lettuce, served with classic caesar dressing and croutons on the side.

FRUIT AND YOGURT PARFAIT $ 5

United does not serve peanuts as snacks or use peanuts or peanut oils in foods served on our ﬂights. However, we do serve vendor products manufactured in facilities that also produce items containing peanuts or peanut oils, and we do have snack mixes that contain other tree nuts, such as almonds and pistachios.

Your feedback is welcomed via ualsurvey.com w ithin seven days of your flight. United, Choice Menu, and EasyPurchase are trademarks of United. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. We apologize if your selection is not available on today’s ﬂight.

ELI’S ORIGINAL PLAIN CHEESECAKE $ 3

CONTINENTAL BREAKFAST $ 5

SPINACH SALAD $ 9 Fresh spinach, blue cheese crumbles, dr ied cranberries and walnut halves, served with balsamic vinaigrette dressing and croutons on the side.

TURKEY SANDWICH $ 9

A moist and tasty muffin with cinnamon streusel topping.

Chicago’s Hometown Favorite.

CINNAMON CRUMB CAKE MUFFIN $ 3

Low fat vanilla yogurt served with fruit and a side of granola.

HAM AND SWISS CROISSANT $ 5 Flavorful ham and swiss cheese on a croissant with dijonnaise sauce (served cold).

Tender smoked turkey topped with crisp romaine lettuce and sundried tomato aioli sauce on multigrain brea d, accompanied by Kettle Classics potato chips.

ANTIPASTO PLATE $ 7

ITALIAN SANDWICH $ 9 Ham, salami, mozzarella, roasted tomatoes, Italian dressing on rustic Italian bread accompanied by Kettle Classics potato chips.

Grilled chicken breast, romaine lettuce, julienned carrots, red and yellow bell pepper strips and Thai aioli sauce wrapped in a tortilla, accompanied by Kettle Classics potato chips.

French toast flavored bagel, cream cheese, Smuckers strawberry jam and Upstate Farms strawberry yogurt.

THAI CHICKEN WRAP $ 9

BREAKFAST ON FLIGHTS OVER 3 HOURS DEPARTING BEFORE 10 AM LUNCH/DINNER ON FLIGHTS OVER 3 HOURS DEPARTING BETWEEN 10 AM - 8 PMwrapchickenthaitraycheeseassortedsaladspinachparfaityogurtandfruit

CHICKEN CAESAR SALAD $ 9

Sliced salami, mozzarella cheese, havarti dill cheese, Mediterranean or Vinaigrette olives and Grissini Torino breadsticks.

NON-ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES WINES UNITED FIRST AND UNITED BUSINESS (DOMESTIC) RED WHITE UNITED ECONOMY® ALL FLIGHTS UNITED ECONOMY PREMIUM WINES (DOMESTIC ONLY) UNITED FIRST AND UNITED BUSINESS CABINS COCKTAILS, BEER, SPIRITS, LIQUEURS UNITED ECONOMY PREMIUM COCKTAIL (DOMESTIC COCKTAIL UNITED FIRST, UNITED BUSINESS AND UNITED ECONOMY BEER Beer offerings are subject to availability. A selection of regional beers is offered on some International flights. SPIRITS LIQUEURS ONLY ON INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Alcohol may be served to customers over 21 only. By FAA rule, we may not serve alcohol to customers who appear intoxicated. Customers are limited to one alcoholic beverage at a time during service. Only alcohol provided by United and served by flight attendants may be consumed onboard. ® FEEDING EAT“NOURISHAMERICAOURKIDS”FORGOODSNACKBOXES a great new Snackbox option BEVERAGES RELAX WITH YOUR FAVORITE DRINK . Eat for Good Enjoy Trader Vic’s cuisine in United First and Business on select flights to Hawaii and Asia. Visit united.com for more details.

Forwww.gozerog.commoreinformation,flightdatesandlocationsvisit(703)524-7172(888)664-7284info@gozerog.comLIKENOTHINGONEARTHtheweightlessexperienceYouropportunitytoflylikeasuperheroandfloatlikeanastronautishere!ReserveyourseataboardG-FORCEONEtoexperiencetheamazingfeelingofweightlessness!LIMITEDTIMEOFFER:BookTwoSeatsandreceive$1000off.WhenbookingenterormentionPromotionCode“United310”.ValidthroughApril30,2010.UPCOMINGFLIGHTS:+Washington,DC+Honolulu,HI+LasVegas,NV+CapeCanaveral,FL+Seattle,WAandmore…

United Airlines Hemispheres Magazine March 2010

Articles inside

Artifact A souvenir from the fi eld

Diary Getting locked in an apartment turns out to be an unusual social entrée in Vienna.

Food & Drink A new wave of artisanal salts is shaking up our

Sound Irish band The Chieftains venture south of the border.

Industry A trip to the Consumer Electronics Show proves gadgets still can’t replace pressing the fl esh.

Vision Breaking Bad’s Bryan Cranston explains his unlikable character.

Whereabouts Designer Roberto Cavalli lounges in the Mediterranean.

Print Even the best vintage shops have nothing on author Lisa

Hero Anthony Martin puts kids on the fast track at his Urban Youth

Voices When disaster struck Haiti United pitched in to help.

Whirlwind Five hours in Frankfurt

Goods

Style Designer Cynthia Rowley spiffs up United’s employee

Connections United gets you there on time.

Notes From All Over Feathers

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