United Airlines Hemispheres magazine October 2011

OCTOBER 2011

Hemisphe pheres

THREE PERFECT DAYS: NEW YORK CITY • CHINA’S FIRST MAJOR LEAGUE BASEBALL STAR • GOLFING WITH MORIMOTO

THREE PERFECT DAYS IN

NEW YORK CITY THE HEMI Q&A TAKES A LONG, LONG WALK WITH MARTIN SHEEN

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THE SEARCH FOR CHINA’S FIRST MAJOR LEAGUE BASEBALL STAR

IRON CHEF AND GOLF FANATIC MORIMOTO WORKS ON HIS SLICE

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Your Golden Angel

No one else can see it, but you know the secret of your Wellendorff ring – a little golden angel is hidden inside.

Read the whole story which inspired us to create this new collection at: www.wellendorff.com/goldenangel

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A true story: “One day a raging fire destroyed everything I possessed, including my beloved jewellery.

Only one piece survived the inferno practically undamaged: my Wellendorff necklace adorned with a golden angel.

After this fire, jewellery has a completely different meaning for me; because it proves that miracles do happen.�

Letter from Inga Lasmane of Riga, Latvia.

This letter is the inspiration for our new collection.

It came as a welcome reminder of the true value of jewellery: To offer joy and protection.

Wellendorff-Boutique San Francisco at Shreve & Co., 200 Post Street, tel. 415.860.4010.

For further details or how to find a Wellendorff jeweller near you, please contact Wellendorff, tel. 801.556.5206 or e-mail: usa@wellendorff.com, www.wellendorff.com

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©2011 Anheuser-Busch, Budweiser® Beer, St. Louis, MO

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OCTOBER CONTENTS YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY

» 72 THE PITCH While China is no stranger to Western sports, the man leading Major League Baseball’s attempt to sell the country on America’s Pastime has his work cut out for him. First up: learning how to pronounce his players’ names.

BY JOHN B. THOMPSON PHOTOGRAPHS BY LAURA BARISONZI

» 78 WING AND A PRAYER Extreme birding is an obsession requiring an inhuman degree of patience and devotion. Our writer learns what it takes on a search for one of Spain’s rarest (and strangest) birds.

BY STEPHAN TALTY ILLUSTRATIONS BY MEGAN BERKHEISER & MIKE CALDWELL

» 84 THREE PERFECT DAYS: NEW YORK CITY With new attractions popping up daily, this towering city is in a state of constant flux. But there’s one thing that never changes: From the ground, there is absolutely no place like it.

CHRIS SANDERS

BY LAYLA SCHLACK PHOTOGRAPHS BY CHRIS SANDERS

HEY, TAXI In New York, getting around can be half the fun

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • SEPTEMBER 2011

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OCTOBER CONTENTS

EYE, EYE Captain Ahab gets a new look in Moby Dick in Pictures, page 43

YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY

DOWNLOAD OUR FREE IPAD APP FROM ITUNES

12 VOICES A message to flyers 14 CONNECTIONS What’s new at United

SUBSCRIBE TO HEMISPHERES

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THE WORLD 16 DISPATCHES Oktoberfest, by the numbers; the dirndl squeezes into Germany’s limelight; top-tier wedding cakes in Tulsa; Puerto Rico’s pork trail; a big balloon blowout in Albuquerque; golf with Iron Chef Morimoto 27 STAY Indulge in these magical spas at top hotels 31 FOOD & DRINK Cideries and jam makers are putting a new shine on heirloom apples

BY JANE BLACK

ABOUT THE COVER: This aerial view contrasts New York City’s most famous open space, Central Park, with the densely packed blocks arrayed along Fifth Avenue

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34 ROAD TRIP Conquering New Hampshire’s Kancamagus Highway by Camaro

BY CRISTINA ROUVALIS

BY JOE KEOHANE

39 HOW IT’S DONE An invisibility cloak that hides ships from sonar

63 TECH Laptops for road warriors

BY TOM SAMILJAN

40 WHAT TO WEAR Red carpet style in L.A.

65 THE FAN Why bull riding is the most exciting eight seconds in sports

BY WAYMAN BANNERMAN

BY ADAM K. RAYMOND

CULTURE

ENTERTAINMENT AND INFORMATION

BY JACQUELINE DETWILER

43 THE BIG TEN Feist’s new album, Moby Dick remixed and what else to watch, read and listen to this month 48 THE HEMI Q&A Martin Sheen on working with his new favorite director: his son, Emilio

BY DAVID CARR

53 THE GOODS Ski and snowboard gear

BY JACQUELINE DETWILER

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58 BRIGHT IDEAS How Chipotle’s CEO became the burrito king

109 Movies, Television and Audio Programming 118 Crossword and Sudoku 123 Route Maps, Customs & Immigration, Our Fleet, Terminal Diagrams, Safety & Travel Assistance, MileagePlus and Alliances & Partnerships 144 Food & Beverages

WRITE TO US: Editorial@hemispheresmagazine.com • 68 Jay St., Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201

COVER IMAGE: SUPERSTUDIO

11 CEO LETTER A word from Jeff Smisek

OCTOBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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EDITOR IN CHIEF Joe Keohane EXECUTIVE EDITOR Sam Polcer SENIOR EDITOR Jacqueline Detwiler FASHION EDITOR Nino Bauti

Field of Dreams

ART DIRECTOR Christine Bower-Wright ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR

Tim Vienckowski

For this month’s feature “The Pitch” (page 72), John B. Thompson traveled to China to profile Rick Dell (right). Dell is a key part of Major League Baseball’s effort to cultivate local talent and break into a market traditionally uninterested in America’s Pastime. “It’s a cliché,” says Thompson, a former GQ researcher now a ending graduate school at Harvard, “but every day in China feels like the cusp of a new era.” This extends to the baseball diamond as well. “Considering the lack of native tradition, it’s incredible to think that someone like Zhai Lianjie—at all of 15—is a bona fide talent and potential major league prospect.” The MLB training camp is set in Wuxi, a former third-tier city near Shanghai suddenly booming with new development—which may well work in the game’s favor. “In such a place,” Thompson says, “a baseball field is a true oasis.”

PHOTO EDITOR Jessie Adler CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Jay Cheshes, Alyssa Giacobbe, Cristina Rouvalis, Edward Lewine, Adam K. Raymond, Grant Stoddard, Matt Thompson CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS

Jeffrey Decoster, Peter James Field, Oliver Jeffers, Alex Nabaum, Peter Oumanski, Steve Stankiewicz EXECUTIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Michael Keating U.S. EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

Orion Ray-Jones Ink, 68 Jay Street, Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 Tel: +1 347-294-1220 Fax: +1 917-591-6247 editorial@hemispheresmagazine.com hemispheresmagazine.com WEBMASTER Salah Lababidi ADVERTISING U.S. GROUP PUBLISHING DIRECTOR

Stephen Andrews VP STRATEGY AND BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Andrea Alexander ADVERTISING ACCOUNT MANAGERS

WHAT DO YOU THINK? WRITE TO US! Editorial@hemispheresmagazine.com Hemispheres Magazine, 68 Jay St., Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201

Contributors

Frank Colonno, Robbin Gordon, Kevin Green, Danny Litton, Kristina Kurz, Dorie Leo, Mary Anne MacLean, Dave Madonia, Joe McHugh, Jack Miller, Jeff Miller, Stu Opfer, Marshall Rubin, Scott Stone, Caryn Tanis NORTHEAST ADVERTISING DIRECTOR

Brian McLaughlin HAWAII Robert Wiegand EUROPE Angus Urqhart ASIA Jacqueline Ho LATIN AMERICA Alejandro Salas SOUTH AMERICA Olivier Capoulade PRODUCTION MANAGER Joe Massey

Tel: +1 678-553-8091 PRODUCTION CONTROLLERS

Grace Dinwiddie, Stacy Willis MARKETING AND EVENTS MANAGER

Nikkole Wyrick SALES AND MARKETING COORDINATOR Melinda Hanna

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TOM SAMILJAN, who wrote the Tech column on the next generation of business notebooks (“Work Crew,”page 63), writes about technology for Travel + Leisure, L’Uomo Vogue, The Daily and majorleaguegaming .com. He flies frequently, and always has at least 10 gadgets in his carry-on.

LAURA BARISONZI lives in New York, where she shoots for publications like Adweek, Runner’s World and Yoga Journal. Her Mandarin skills recently got a workout when she tried to explain the rules of baseball to her Chinese photo assistant while shooting “The Pitch” (page 72). Apparently, there are words for inning, shortstop and bunt— none of which she has quite mastered.

Ink (sales), Capital Building, 255 East Paces Ferry Road, Suite 400, Atlanta, GA 30305 Tel: +1 888-864-1733 Fax: +1 917-591-6247 Ink CEO Jeffrey O’Rourke COO Hugh Godsal PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Simon Leslie HEMISPHERES is produced monthly by Ink. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions expressed in Hemispheres are not necessarily those of the Publisher or United Airlines, and United Airlines does not accept any responsibility for advertising content. Neither United, its subsidiaries nor affiliates guarantees the accuracy, completeness or timeliness of, or otherwise endorses these facts, views, opinions or recommendations, gives investment advice, or advocates the purchase or sale of any security or investment. You should always seek the assistance of a professional for tax and investment advice. Any images are supplied at the owner’s risk. Any mention of United Airlines or the use of United Airlines logo by any advertiser in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company or its products or services by United Airlines.

DELL: LAURA BARISONZI

JANE BLACK is a Brooklyn-based food writer and a regular contributor to The New York Times, The Washington Post and The Atlantic. In reporting this month’s story on heirloom apples (“Cider Houses Rule,” page 31), she learned an unexpected lesson from founding father John Adams: It’s not an apple that keeps the doctor away; it’s a tankard of hard cider, enjoyed during breakfast.

OCTOBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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REIMAGINED. REDESIGNED.

READY TO

MOVE YOU. Introducing the 2012 nüvi® line from garmin garmin.com/move

NASDAQ GRMN ©2011 Garmin Ltd. or its subsidiaries. All rights reserved.

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© 2011 United Air Lines, Inc. All rights reserved.

MileagePlus.

The world’s most rewarding loyalty program.

MileagePlus will be the loyalty program for the world’s leading airline. Already voted the world’s Best Frequent Flyer Program by .SVIHS ;YH]LSLY magazine for seven years in a row, MileagePlus will offer even more in 2012. More places to fly. More ways to earn and use your award miles. More new features and benefits. To enroll or learn more, visit mileageplus.com.

Includes destinations served by United Air Lines, Inc., Continental Airlines, Inc., United Express, Continental Express, Continental Connection and the Star Alliance Network.

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CEO LETTER

Game-Changing Aircra WELCOME ABOARD, and thank you for choosing United for your flight today. One year ago this month, United and Continental closed their merger to create the world’s leading airline, and I’m pleased with the progress we’re making in our integration.

At the new United, we are commi ed to investing in our product, facilities, fleet and people. One of our most exciting investments is our order for 50 Boeing 787 Dreamliner aircraft. We are preparing to take delivery of our first Dreamliner in the first part of 2012.

The first 787 that will be delivered to the new United entered the assembly phase at Boeing’s facility near Sea le in August, and we expect to take a total of six Dreamliners next year. United was the first airline to operate the 767 and 777, and will continue this tradition by being the first North American airline to operate the game-changing 787 Dreamliner, nearly three years ahead of any of our domestic competitors.

The 787 improves customer comfort with bigger windows, improved lighting, larger overhead bins, improved cabin pressure and enhanced ventilation systems, among other passenger-friendly features. It will also have an advanced passenger cabin that will reduce the effects of jet lag by pressurizing the cabin to

a lower equivalent altitude and providing higher cabin humidity. Moreover, the 787 will be up to 20 percent more fuel-efficient than comparable aircra , reducing both fuel burn and carbon emissions.

The first model we take, the 787-8, will be configured with 36 flat-bed seats, 63 of United’s popular Economy Plus seats and 120 seats in Economy. The 787 will be a very comfortable, customer-pleasing aircra , and with its range, fuel efficiency and superb operating economics, the 787 will allow us to enter new long-haul markets and also replace older, less efficient widebody aircra .

We will announce the flight schedule for the Dreamliner later this year, and I hope you get the chance to experience this spectacular new aircra .

Thanks again for flying with us today. We appreciate your business and look forward to seeing you onboard again soon.

PRESIDENT AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER, UNITED AIRLINES

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • OCTOBER 2011

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VOICES

Varied Bliss When every day brings something new, job satisfaction stays constant BY A. AVERYL RE YOU COULD ALMOST say that Sally Grace Quek was born to be a flight a endant. She speaks three languages: English, Mandarin and Japanese. She has a reputation for being impeccably poised and gracious, whether interacting with passengers in the terminal or at 35,000 feet. In fact, in 2009 this Hong Kong–based flight a endant was chosen by colleagues as the person they’d most want to serve with on their “dream team”; they consider her a flight a endant’s flight a endant.

“I’ve always wanted to become a flight a endant, even when I was just 9 years old,” Quek says. “When my aunt came back from her honeymoon in the U.S., she brought me two beautiful dresses, and I told myself, ‘One day, I want to go there, too.’”

Quek got her chance in 1985 when Pan Am recruited flight a endants in

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Singapore. About a year later, she joined the United Airlines family when the carrier bought the Pacific routes from Pan Am. A er subsequent stints with Cathay Pacific Airways and ANA, which allowed her to experience different airline cultures, Quek returned to United in 1992 as an interpreter for international flights. And when United opened the Hong Kong base in 1995 and eliminated the interpreter position, Quek came full circle, moving from Singapore to Hong Kong to don the United flight a endant’s uniform once again.

While Quek considers United her family, she also appreciates the perspective she gained from working at Cathay and ANA. “I grew up with United, so I feel very comfortable here, but I benefited a lot from the other airlines, actually, because they’re distinct from United. The culture and the flying

experience are not the same; even the customers you meet are very unique to each airline.”

Experiencing variety—whether in destinations or in people—is one of the main benefits of being an international flight a endant, she says.

“We get to travel to different countries and experience diverse cultures and delicacies. I can be in Singapore one day, eating laksa noodles, and in Hong Kong the next day, eating dim sum. Or I can wake up in Hong Kong in the morning and go to sleep in San Francisco that night.

“I get to meet people from all walks of life,” Quek says, “people on business trips, honeymooners, people who are sick, happy, depressed or first-time fliers.” Those interactions can be both challenging and rewarding, she adds, recalling a passenger on one of her flights who’d just lost his wife.

“He was overwhelmed with grief, with tears streaming down his face. I decided to spend some time talking to him,” she says. By the time he stepped off the plane, his demeanor had brightened, if only a bit. “I felt very good that day that I was able to make a difference in his life.

This is the good part of the job, that you can have a positive impact on someone.”

Making that kind of difference is as much a part of her job as knowing safety procedures or serving meals, Quek says, but it isn’t always easy. “When I don’t feel well or I’m troubled by something, I still have to pick myself up and provide service with a smile.”

Quek doesn’t believe there’s a magic formula to doing her job well. “I think you just make up your mind to do it,” she says. “I read once that when you think you are beautiful, you will be beautiful.

It’s all in your mind. When you think you will be good, you are good.

“The minute I put on my uniform, psychologically, I know I have to put everything behind me and give the very best to my customers.

“That’s what it’s about for me,’’ she adds. “Being commi ed to my job. Having lots of patience. And serving with love. When you are good to somebody, they will be good to you. It always works both ways, I think.”

OCTOBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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CONNECTIONS

Everyone Looks Good in Pink United shows its true colors in support of National Breast Cancer Awareness Month IF YOU SEE coworkers from our United and Continental subsidiaries sporting pink hats, ties or scarves this month, it’s because they’re showing their support for National Breast Cancer Awareness Month.

By wearing pink items throughout October, our coworkers become visible symbols of United’s support for those ba ling the disease and for those working to find a cure.

Breast cancer is the second most common cancer in American women, a er skin cancer. According to the American Cancer Society, an estimated 230,480 cases of invasive breast cancer are expected to be diagnosed in the United States in 2011. Today, there are about 2.5 million breast cancer survivors living in the United States.

The new United is proud to continue its involvement with organizations that raise awareness and provide critical care and support to individuals and

families affected by this disease. That support will be a significant part of our portfolio of giving. During National Breast Cancer Awareness Month, United’s support will help increase awareness about breast cancer, share information on the disease and provide greater access to screening.

Customers can also support the cause at any time throughout the year by making a donation of MileagePlus or OnePass miles to the American Cancer Society at united.com/charitymiles or continental.com/charitymiles.

Through the generosity of our customers, more than 180 million miles have already been donated to help individuals fighting cancer receive the treatment they need.

We hope that you will join us in continuing to show support for National Breast Cancer Awareness Month. Walk, donate, educate—and wear your pink proudly.

ASK THE PILOT With Captain Mike Bowers

Q: Whenever I see pilots in the airport, they always seem to be carrying a large briefcase along with their luggage.

What’s in there?

A: Pilots are required to carry certain manuals and navigational charts with them in flight. The combined United and Continental fleets form the world’s leading airline and, as such, their pilots need to carry a large amount of navigational charts (those briefcases can weigh as much as 40 pounds!).

Due to the heft of the bags and the desire to go paperless, we’re in the process of converting our paper charts into an electronic form that can display on an Apple iPad. Each pilot will soon be issued an iPad containing all of the information that was previously in our paper manuals.

In the future, you shouldn't be seeing us toting the heavy bags around anymore.

Do you have a question for Captain Bowers? Write to him at askthepilot@ united.com

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Let us make a new city feel anything but foreign.

Let us tailor you a suit and find your lost luggage while you sleep.

Let us find a translator fluent in both Cantonese and your business.

Let us remind you that true success is always by design.

For more guest experiences, visit ritzcarlton.com/stories.

For reservations, contact your travel professional or visit us online.

76 hotels and resorts worldwide. Open 2011: Hong Kong, Muscat, Riyadh, Toronto.

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THE WORLD FAC TS T R E NDS NE WS

Oktoberfest, By the Numbers

STEIN: KIERAN WILLS/ISTOCKPHOTO.COM

Mounting Munich’s 178th annual Oktoberfest (something of a misnomer, as it runs from September 17 to October 3) is no small feat. Here’s a look at what it takes to throw one of the world’s biggest parties.

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ILLUSTRATION BY JULIE TENINBAUM

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*

www.spain.info

Art here is not only to be found in museums

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DISPATCHES

BERLIN

Miss Oktober A haute spin on a Bavarian tradition

BY CHANEY KWAK

YOU MAY BE FORGIVEN for associating dirndls with clichéd images: a blond maiden yodeling while milking a cow, perhaps.

Even in most parts of Germany, the traditional Bavarian a ire is relegated to the realm of kitsch. But down south, the dirndl is a serious sartorial statement.

In Munich, where the society set regularly graces the red carpet in dirndls, designer Lola Paltinger puts a cheeky spin on the triedand-true formula of fi ed bodice, frilly blouse and embroidered pinafore. “I’m using really strong colors this year,” she says, “like hot pink, turquoise and orange.” She has also flirted with tulle and organza instead of the usual co on.

Though the dirndl’s pedigree can be traced back to humble servants’ uniforms, today one can fetch upward of €3,000 at boutiques like Paltinger’s Lollipop & Alpenrock. The he y price tag

ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER OUMANSKI

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hasn’t deterred customers from flocking to Paltinger, who used to work for designer Vivienne Westwood and retail chain H&M. From now until the very last day of Oktoberfest, her atelier of three employees will swell to 12 seamstresses to meet the demands of jet-set clients who like to fly in and have a dress made to measure by the next morning.

Despite all the experiments with colors and fabric, however, Paltinger is a purist at heart. When asked what was the most radical modification she’s made, she has to pause and think for a while.

“Sometimes I omit the blouse under the bodice,” she says, “but then it’s really just a cocktail dress, not a dirndl.” Even Paris Hilton had to se le for a demure calf-length number when she asked Paltinger to dress her. “Even if it’s shortened, the skirt must cover the knees,” Paltinger says. A er all, some traditions just can’t be compromised.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • OCTOBER 2011

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Dispatches || THE WORLD

TULSA, OKLA.

Boss Cakes SUGAR ART TAKES OKLAHOMA

“Before I started decorating, I worked in typesetting,” says Rebecca Sutterby, “so my inspiration this year is a dingbat.” The Kansan laughs sheepishly and pulls a page of curlicued designs from a sheaf of elaborate sketches, including one that depicts the piece she’ll be entering in the Grand National Wedding Cake Competition at the 18th annual Oklahoma State Sugar Art Show—a highlight of this month’s Tulsa State Fair famed for its eye-popping panorama of edible architecture.

In the living room of the farmhouse Sutterby shares with her husband and three sons, the cake is coming to life. A table swathed in lilac taffeta is set with a five-tiered styrofoam model upon which she’ll work her magic in gum paste, royal icing, roll fondant and wafer paper (but no actual cake, which would collapse over the course of the two-day exhibition). By the time it’s done, she’ll have put in more than 200 hours of work.

Sutterby first entered the competition, the nation’s largest, 10 years ago, back when “I didn’t know any better,” she says. Now a professional cake artist, she has gone on to place several times; she nabbed the grand prize in 2008 with a Western-themed cake, into which she incorporated ersatz turquoise stones, silver engraving and leather tooling—all edible, of course, per the rules.

Those rules are written each year by show founder Kerry Vincent, an Australian-born master sugar artist and judge on the long-running series Food Network Challenge, where she’s notorious as the headband-wearing answer to Simon Cowell. In person, however, she styles herself as “a cake mother, badgering and pushing” her brood on to glory, she says. Sutterby, who has appeared on both Challenge and The Learning Channel’s Ultimate Cake Off, concurs. “If it weren’t for Kerry,” she says, “I’d still be sitting here in my cow pasture.”—RUTH TOBIAS

PUERTO RICO

HOG WILD A trip down Puerto Rico’s succulent cerdo trail It’s Wednesday a ernoon in Guavate, Puerto Rico, and a mud-colored dog is lazily passing the day in a bit of shade outside Lechonera Los Pinos, one of the nearly two dozen pork palaces packed into this sleepy mountain town. Long famous for its lechoneras, roadside restaurants that proudly display eight-foot hogs roasting on spits, Guavate is still shaking off a weekend of too much cerveza and even more cerdo (roast pork).

“Muy gente. Muy, muy gente,” Jean Paul Martinez says, stretching his arms wide when asked what Guavate is like on weekends, when thousands of Puerto Ricans make the 45-minute drive here from San Juan. Martinez works behind the counter at Lechonera Los Pinos, one of the biggest lechoneras in town, and he’s quick with some recommendations: Mixed sausage, a combination of pork and chicken, is a personal favorite, he says, holding a machete the size of Babe.

Another, of course, is the roast pork.

The lechonera tradition began in Guavate a er one roadside shack experienced so much success selling pork to passing truckers that dozens more popped up.

Today, there are more than 20 here, many of which have adopted similar décor: picnic tables, pool tables and at least one painting of a hog wearing a bib.

El Rancho Original is the last eatery before the road through town, PR-184, turns into a glorified hiking trail through the Carite Forest. It’s an outdoor cafeteria big enough to serve the 1,500 people who call Guavate home. “People come to Guavate to eat pork,” an employee says definitively as she assembles a mountainous plate of pork and rice. “The pork here is the best,” she declares, “and I don’t really even eat meat!” —ADAM K. RAYMOND

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • OCTOBER 2011

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THE WORLD || Dispatches

ALBUQUERQUE, N.M.

Catching Air LIFTOFF AT THE WORLD’S BIGGEST BALLOON RALLY

Not 30 minutes ago, Mister Z was just a rag in a duffel bag; now, thanks to a $1,400 fan, a propane burner and a crew of 10 adults and four kids, he has achieved his full grandeur, casting his perky-eared shadow across the lawn of Balloon Fiesta Park at sunrise.

Come October 1, the grinning, six-story zebra head won’t be alone—555 balloons are registered to fly in the 40th annual Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta, 100 of them so-called “special shapes.” For nine days, some 800,000 enthusiasts from around the globe will descend on the city to witness the spectacle of the high-desert sky filled with giant panda bears, Pepsi cans, alarm clocks and fire trucks amid the usual rainbow of spheres.

Mister Z’s pilots, Thom and Jonathan Wright, are appropriately decked out in black-and-white stripes, right up to Jonathan’s top hat. Though today’s outing is just a dry run, it nonetheless marks a special occasion: the first time the father-and-son team, who’ve been crewing and flying together for nearly 20 years, are entering a special shape in the fiesta along with a traditional round balloon.

That means they’ll be piloting separately. Taking Mister Z’s reins, Jonathan admits he’s a bit nervous. But as long as “my dad’s basically spending my inheritance”—the balloon alone cost $35,000—“I’m gonna have a lot of fun.”

They’ll compete in games like Hold ’Em, in which airborne balloonists drop markers on giant playing cards to get the best hand (the event is sponsored by a local casino), they’ll cut loose during the inevitable champagne-fueled tailgate parties, and then they’ll just take in the sights. A Belgian team is flying a Darth Vader balloon, a local favorite. “Which explains why you’ll see this crew of stormtroopers running around,” says Thom. —RUTH TOBIAS

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FRANKFURT

PHILADELPHIA

BOSTON

PARIS

OCTOBER 12-16

OCTOBER 22

OCTOBER 22-23

OCTOBER 28-29

Iceland is the “guest of honor” at this year’s Frankfurt Book Fair, a massive celebration of print that attracts industry types and lit lovers from around the world. buchmesse.de

The handcrafted bug sculptures at the Academy of Natural Sciences’ “Bugs… Outside the Box” exhibit are scientifically accurate, apart from being 200 times larger than life. ansp.org

The annual Head of the Charles Regatta attracts 300,000 spectators to the banks of the Charles River to cheer on 9,000 athletes at one of the world’s largest rowing regattas. hocr.org

Bon Iver co-curates the first-ever Pitchfork Music Festival Paris, hosted by the eponymous music website. Headliners include Aphex Twin, Jens Lekman and Cut Copy. pitchfork.com

CARO/ALAMY (FRANKFURT)

THIS MONTH CALENDAR OF WORLDLY EVENTS

OCTOBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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recognized sushi chef and TV star has traded in his blue Iron Chef coat for a yellow sweater vest at this year’s Pebble Beach Food and Wine Charity Golf Tournament, but he’s HITTING THE LINKS WITH THE IRON CHEF always up for seafood. He makes a fist and offers up the flat spot On the fifth green at the iconic Pebble behind his thumb, where a large dollop Beach Golf Links, an intense-looking man of Beluga caviar is placed for him to taste.

Morimoto can seem intimidating, dashwith a taut, samurai-style black ponytail leans in, takes a breath and knocks a ing around the Food Network’s kitchen stadium constructing dishes out of fish 15-foot birdie pu dead into the center of heads, mangosteens and what have you, the cup. As he walks off the green with a but on the course, he’s loose and friendly. huge grin, a man wearing an impeccable Just a er he puts the eggs in his mouth, blue blazer and carrying a small silver a few volunteers approach him for a photray emerges from a golf cart. tograph. He works the eggs against his “Caviar, chef?”

The golfer, Chef Masaharu Morimoto, teeth, turning his smile into a black, fishy, expensive joke, and grins. He swallows nods eagerly. The internationally PEBBLE BEACH, CALIF.

Fish and Chips

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and poses again, shouting, “Say sushi!”

Morimoto has been playing golf since he was very young, and clearly enjoys it. On Pebble’s 10th hole, which sprawls magnificently along the Pacific Ocean, he booms a lovely drive, and then knocks a 175-yard five iron to within 15 feet of the hole. He stands over the pu for a moment, drains it for another birdie, and commences running around the green, high-fiving and fist-bumping his teammates.

Walking to the next tee, Morimoto says he doesn’t get to play as much as he’d like these days—except when he’s visiting Morimoto Waikiki. “When I go to Hawaii, I play a lot. When you’re there, no one can complain. There’s nothing else to do. It’s golf, beach, golf, beach.”

—MARK McCLUSKY

AP PHOTO/ERIC RISBERG

THE WORLD || Dispatches

OCTOBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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02/09/2011 10:57

THE ULTIMATE MOBILE INVESTING APP.

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3. A QR code reader application may be needed to be able to download E*TRADE Mobile to your mobile device. QR reader software is available on most but not all mobile platforms. Android is a trademark of Google Inc. Use of this trademark is subject to Google Permissions. iPhone and iPad are registered trademarks of Apple Inc. The BlackBerry and RIM families of related marks, images and symbols are the exclusive properties of and trademarks or registered trademarks of Research In Motion Limited – used by permission.

Securities products and services are offered by E*TRADE Securities LLC, Member FINRA/SIPC. System response and account access times may vary due to a variety of factors, including trading volumes, market conditions, system performance and other factors. ©2011 E*TRADE Financial Corporation. All rights reserved.

No.30967 E Trade.indd 1

13/09/2011 10:09

The Original Hawaiian Slipper Pendant with Diamonds

Matching Earrings available

Various sizes available Available in 14K Yellow, White or Rose Gold

OAHU: Ala Moana Center t Outrigger Waikiki on Kalakaua Avenue (across from International Market Place) Waikiki Beachwalk t Hilton Hawaiian Village MAUI: Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center t Lahaina Cannery t The Shops at Wailea t Whalers Village Front Street (2 locations) t Hyatt Regency Maui t Grand Wailea Resort KAUAI: Poipu Shopping Village t Grand Hyatt Kauai BIG ISLAND OF HAWAII: Kona Marketplace t Kings’ Shops t Hilton Waikoloa Village NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE: Pride of America BOSTON: Natick Collection t Northshore Mall CHICAGO: Oakbrook Center t Woodfield Mall DALLAS: NorthPark Center DENVER: Cherry Creek Shopping Center LOS ANGELES: Glendale Galleria t Northridge Fashion Center NEW YORK: Roosevelt Field ORLANDO: The Mall at Millenia PHILADELPHIA: The Plaza at King of Prussia PLEASANTON: Stoneridge Mall PORTLAND: Washington Square SAN DIEGO: Fashion Valley t Horton Plaza SAN FRANCISCO: Pier 39 SAN JOSE: Valley Fair SEATTLE: Bellevue Square WASHINGTON, D.C.: Tysons Corner Center

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24/08/2011 11:09

STAY

Preferential Treatments These hotel spas have exactly what you need to relax

JIMBARAN, BALI

PERCHED ATOP THE LIMESTONE CLIFFS overlooking Jimbaran Bay, the aquatonic pool at the spectacular Ayana Resort and Spa contains 185 million gallons of seawater piped in directly from the Indian Ocean, making it the largest such facility on earth. In a process that can take over an hour, guests wade, and occasionally swim, against a light current through a circuit of stations equipped with jets of varying position and pressure, which target sore muscles and basically leave everyone feeling pleasantly spent by the end. For those capable of resisting the urge to take a nap in their private villas a erward, the Spa Café offers healthy post-soak fare made with fresh local ingredients. Those looking for even more pampering can reserve the Spa on the Rocks, a private space with panoramic views of the ocean. ayanaresort.com

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • OCTOBER 2011

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02/09/2011 10:59

THE WORLD || Stay

DAINTREE, AUSTRALIA

DAINTREE ECOLODGE & SPA Spas don’t get any greener than the one at this rainforest resort Green and local have been the buzzwords in spa treatments for years, but there’s a difference between, say, using local sea salt in a scrub and designing an entire menu of treatments with rainforestfriendly products and the approval of indigenous Kuku Yalanji elders.

In addition to accommodations in one of 15 bayans deep in the world’s oldest living rainforest, and dinner at an award-winning “Australian tropical” restaurant, the resort offers a signature treatment that involves drizzling spagoers with oil, rubbing them with desert salt, wrapping them in mud and, finally, rinsing them off with water from the lodge’s waterfall, a sacred Kuku Yalanji healing site. daintree-ecolodge.com.au

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Stay || THE WORLD

CHICAGO

SEDONA, ARIZ.

ELYSIAN SPA & HEALTH CLUB

MII AMO SPA AT ENCHANTMENT RESORT

A luxurious bathhouse for urban sophisticates

A peaceful sanctuary surrounded by a dramatic, healing landscape

This sleek, 14,000-square-foot oasis on the fourth floor of the glamorous Elysian Hotel takes its design cues from ancient Greece, with granite and natural stone accents as well as indulgent water features like a saline lap pool (which is lined with a mosaic rose design). It’s the perfect place to unwind a er a day of shopping along the nearby Magnificent Mile. elysianhotels.com

If you don’t find tranquility here, just give up. This destination spa already resides practically on top of some of the world’s most renowned spots for natural healing—the so-called “energy vortexes” of Sedona—but that didn’t stop Mii Amo from also building the Crystal Gro o, a Native American–influenced meditation room surrounding a sunlight-refracting crystal. miiamo.com

I MEDICI FIRENZE

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Timeless style handcrafted in Florence Italy Handcrafted chess pieces & boards TWO LOCATIONS WOODFIELD MALL 5 Woodfield Rd #L316 Schaumburg, Illinois 60173 847.517.1111 877.577.2220

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NORTH BRIDGE MALL 520 N Michigan Ave 3rd level Chicago, Illinois 60611 312.527.3788

08/09/2011 10:50

Possessed by the magic of a great celebration, dancers attired in magnificent gold costumes, dance for days and days In the Mirror of the Sky, the Virgin conquered the demon by surrounding it with her burning flames, thus saving the inhabitants from destruction.

That day she was consecrated as their protector and has ever since been venerated with the greatest celebration witnessed by the Land of the Sun. This celebration exists. You can see it, feel it.

Peru. Live the legend.

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Celebrate the spectacular Festival of the Virgin of Candelaria on the shores of Titicaca, the world’s highest navigable lake.

07/09/2011 10:06

FOOD & DRINK

Cider Houses Rule PHOTOGRAPH BY TED THOMAS / GETTY IMAGES

Producers like Foggy Ridge Cider are pu ing cra beer’s li le brother back on the beverage map BY JANE BLACK WHEN DIANE FLYNT decided to escape her air-conditioned workaday life as a banker, her first thought was to get some land out in the country, maybe a picturesque vineyard somewhere.

But when it came time to make her move, the property she fell in love with was a farm 3,000 feet up in Virginia’s Blue Ridge Mountains. The climate was too cold for grapes, but it was perfect for apples, so Flynt, long an amateur horticulturist, began testing different varieties of apple tree, cut her work as a financial consultant down to 40 weeks a year and began spending the rest of her time on the orchard. Eight years later, she unveiled her first hard DUGSPUR, VA.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • OCTOBER 2011

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THE WORLD || Food & Drink

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The Crunch Heard ’Round the World Monticello’s Peter Hatch picks up where Thomas Jefferson le off DURING HIS FIVE-YEAR SOJOURN in Paris, Thomas Jefferson was entranced by French architecture, music and wine. And yet the City of Light couldn’t hold a candle to his Virginia home in one key regard. “They have no apple to compare with our Newtown Pippin,” he wrote in a le er home.

That apple, with its rich, balanced flavor, might have been largely forgo en if it were not for Peter Hatch, the director of gardens and grounds for Monticello,

HOW ABOUT THEM APPLES? Artisan jam makers bring the flavors of long-forgotten apple varieties to grocery store shelves In the days of Johnny Appleseed, America boasted about 15,000 varieties of apple with distinctive names—like Buckingham, Dula Beauty and Gloria Mundi—as well as flavors. Today,

however, the perfectly beautiful and famously bland Red Delicious makes up 41 percent of the national apple crop. Eleven varieties constitute 90 percent of all apples sold in grocery stores.

Artisan jam makers are helping to turn the tide by using littleknown apples in their wares. Each fall, June Taylor releases a new batch of her Gravenstein apple butter, which uses the signature apple of Sonoma County, while Laura O’Brien of Josephine’s Feast

PHOTOGRAPH BY KYLE SMALL (APPLE BUTTER)

cider. “The farm told me what to do,” she says.

Today, the six varieties of Flynt’s Foggy Ridge Cider are emblematic of a recent renaissance in American cidermaking. Over the last year alone, the industry’s sales jumped 23.5 percent to $44.2 million. That’s 1.3 million cases, up from just 145,000 in 1990. “I haven’t seen this kind of interest since craft beer started to boom in the 1970s,” says Bump Williams, a beverage industry consultant. There are now dozens of cideries do ing apple-producing states from coast to coast.

At Foggy Ridge, there are currently three orchards, including a 300-tree test grove producing 30 different kinds of apple. In her apples, Flynt looks for the same traits that winemakers do: sugars, acid and, most important, tannins, which give a cider body and layers of flavor. Foggy Ridge’s First Fruit, for example, uses early apples such as Hewe’s crabapple, known for creating a syrupy juice, and the dark, complex Harrison, to create a rich, fruity taste. The Sweet Stayman cider blends the tart Stayman with Grimes Golden and Cox’s Orange Pippin for a sweet drink that pairs well with spicy food. Flynt also makes two fortified ciders—Pippin Gold and Pippin Black—to go with cheese and dessert.

Needless to say, none of them tastes much like the stuff you’ll find in the supermarket. But contrary to what you might think, Flynt has nothing but kind words for her mass-market counterparts, particularly one featuring the visage of a certain oversize rodent. “I think of Woodchuck as a gateway cider,” Flynt says. “If it brings you to the cider world, that’s wonderful.”

OCTOBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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02/09/2011 11:10

GOOD APPLES Far left, four of Foggy Ridge Cider’s varieties; opposite, Peter Hatch at Monticello

Jefferson’s Virginia home. Over the last 34 years, Hatch has served as a de facto historian, archeologist, landscape architect and a kind of colonial fruit and vegetable detective. Using Jefferson’s writings and sketches, he has painstakingly recreated Jefferson’s gardens, vineyards and orchards and made Monticello a go-to source for heirloom seeds.

Hatch, a humble 62-year-old with wild gray-brown hair, aspired to be a poet back in the early ’70s, but his real talent was for gardening. In 1977, he was hired to oversee Monticello’s 2,400 acres, and one of his first projects was the restoration of Jefferson’s south orchard, which today abounds with peaches, cherries, figs and about 14 heirloom apple varieties, including the Newtown Pippin. More recently, he helped Michelle Obama choose heirloom seeds for her White House garden.

During Jefferson’s time, apples “were wri en about with the same intensity that we now write about great New York restaurants,” Hatch says. To recreate that kind of enthusiasm, each fall Monticello stages an apple tasting featuring nearly two dozen rare varieties, such as Roxbury Russets and Esopus Spitzenburgs. This year’s will take place October 15.

The Ultimate Steak Experience!

Pittsburgh Blue pittsburghbluesteak.com

Edina, MN 952.567.2700

McKendrick’s Steak House mckendricks.com

PROPRIETOR: Randy Stanley

ATLANTA, GA 770.512.8888

PROPRIETORS: Claudia & Doug McKendrick,

Rick Crowe

III Forks iiiforks.com

Malone’s

DALLAS, TX 972.267.1776

malonesrestaurant.com

Lexington, KY 859.335.6500

PROPRIETOR: Chris Vogeli

JACKSONVILLE, FL 904.928.9277

PROPRIETORS: Brian McCarty & Bruce Drake

PROPRIETOR: Curtis Osmond

Metropolitan Grill

Manny’s

themetropolitangrill.com

SEATTLE, WA 206.624.3287

mannyssteakhouse.com

MINNEAPOLIS, MN 612.339.9900

PROPRIETOR: Ron Cohn

PROPRIETORS: Phil Roberts, Peter Mihajlov

& Kevin Kuester

uses Newtown Pippins from a century-old tree on the coast of Shinnecock Bay in Southampton, N.Y., to make her heirloom apple butter with cardamom and heirloom apple compote cooked with French mustard.

Brooklyn-based Anarchy in a Jar makes a cheeky “Apple Sass,” an apple butter made with Winesaps and Staymans, plus a spiced apple jelly that also features local Sixpoint Brewery’s beer—proving that apples can indeed fall far from the tree.

RingSide Steakhouse RingSideSteakhouse.com

Grill 225

PORTLAND, OR 503.223.1513

grill225.com

CHARLESTON, SC 843.266.4222

PROPRIETORS: Jan, Scott & Craig Peterson

PROPRIETOR: Nick Palassis EXECUTIVE CHEF: Demetre Castanas

Gene & Georgetti geneandgeorgetti.com

Benjamin Steak House benjaminsteakhouse.com

CHICAGO, IL 312.527.3718

PROPRIETORS: Tony & Marion Durpetti

NEW YORK, NY 212.297.9177

PROPRIETOR: Benjamin Prelvukaj CHEF: Arturo McLeod

St. Elmo Steak House stelmos.com

INDIANAPOLIS, IN 317.635.0636

PROPRIETORS: Steve Huse & Craig Huse

INDEPENDENTLY OWNED & OPERATED

www.GreatSteakofNA.com

INDEPENDENTLY OWNED & OPERATED

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08/09/2011 10:52

ROAD TRIP

MT. WASHINGTON AUTO ROAD

3

MT. WASHINGTON

16

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NEW HAMPSHIRE

FRANCONIA N O T C H S TAT E PA R K

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FLUME GORGE

W H I T E M O U N TA I N N AT I O N A L F O R E S T 93

“DOUBLE DEATH

BY BURGER”

WOODSTOCK INN STATION AND BREWERY

WOODSTOCK

ROCKY GORGE

93

KANCAMAGUS HIGHWAY SABBADAY FALLS

NEW HAMPSHIRE

Victory Lap Chevy’s muscular new Camaro goes leaf-peeping in the White Mountains

BY JOE KEOHANE

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IT TOOK FIVE SECONDS—literally, five seconds—for someone to comment on the car. I went to pick up my “Victory Red” Chevy Camaro convertible on the west side of Manha an, grabbed the keys, stepped in, and before I could even adjust the rearview mirror, a construction worker materialized beside me. “Yo,” he said admiringly. “Nice car.”

Low-slung, dark-browed and vaguely sharky in appearance, the Camaro inspires comments. Good ones, like this guy’s, and bad ones, which have to do with the outdated, if longstanding, perception of the Camaro as the ride of choice for a certain strain of rambunctious teenaged male. (Then there are the practical ones, like the friend who took one look at the car and told me, “You’ll never get that thing through Connecticut.”)

In fact, I did get it through Connecticut without a racting the a ention of the Constitution State’s peerlessly vigilant State Police, and headed north to New Hampshire to see how it fared on the famed Kancamagus Highway, which at this time of year is a fullblown riot of autumnal color. I picked up “the Kanc,” as the locals call it, in Conway, off of Route 16, and started in. This is not a fast

MAP BY VALERIE WALDBAUER

C O N WAY

OCTOBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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No.32234_Chase_Card 1pp.indd 1

08/09/2011 14:16

THE WORLD || Road Trip

GO WITH THE FLOW The Swift River, which runs along New Hampshire’s Kancamagus Highway

had climbed over the safety fence and was standing on the ledge, beaming, doing a li le jig for her two friends, who were standing on the other side, unamused.

“She’s our friend,” one told me, “but if she breaks her neck, well, that’s just the way it is.” Ah, New Englanders. On the way out, I

2012 CHEVROLET CAMARO CONVERTIBLE The bells and whistles Starting Price: $32,650 Engine: A 3.6L V-6 with 227 horses, 370 feet of torque and a nice, satisfying growl. The SS model comes with a more powerful 6.2L V-8 with 426 hp.

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Performance: More a slab of American muscle than a European sports coupe, the Camaro feels heavy on tight turns, but it devours straightaways. And the gas mileage is excellent: 29 on the highway, 18 in the city.

Perks: The interior is pretty spartan, but it comes equipped with an eight-speaker Boston Acoustic audio system with a 10-inch subwoofer and satellite radio; a “head up display,” in which your speed is projected low onto the windshield; and heated leather bucket seats perfect for top-down driving in New Hampshire in autumn.

saw that a kid had taken up fishing in the pool. “Any luck?” I asked him. “Got a li le one this morning,” he said.

The Kanc is short, just 34.5 miles, and before I knew it I was out the other side.

In the pre y mountain town of Woodstock I stopped at Woodstock Inn Station and Brewery for the “Chef’s Mess,” a terrifically indulgent sandwich with pulled pork, guacamole, onion rings and garlic hot sauce, plus a cup of their famous chili and one of the lively house brews. I briefly considered the “Double Death by Burger,” two 18-ounce cheeseburgers served on a BLT with onion rings that comes with a T-shirt and a spot on the “Wall of Fame/Shame,” but I passed, fearing for my life.

For the last stretch, I followed Route 3 to the Flume Gorge, a narrow, 800-foot natural gorge with sheer 90-foot rock walls on either side, then wheeled onto Route 302, a beautiful winding path between mountains. By now, the car wanted to run, but we had one more stop: the Mount Washington Auto Road, a narrow, slightly white-knuckled cliffside drive up to the top of Mount Washington.

By the time I got to the top, where I stood awhile being assaulted by the wind (the fastest wind ever recorded was recorded here), it had become clear that the car had about go en its fill of doing 20 mph on a steep grade for the last hour, and of hanging around 45 for the rest of the day. It was finally time to get this misused muscle car onto a highway, where it could unfurl its flag. I got back in, descended from the mountain and aimed it at Connecticut.

Hemispheres Editor-in-Chief JOE KEOHANE’s first car was a no doubt equally intimidating 1986 Chevy Nova.

PHOTOGRAPH BY FRASER HALL / ROBERT HARDING WORLD IMAGERY / CORBIS (SWIFT RIVER)

road. It’s meant to be taken at a leisurely pace, with frequent stops to hike, explore, nap or even swim, depending on the weather. While this pace likely affronted the Camaro’s bit-champing 3.6 liter V-6, the Kanc is the ideal road for a convertible in the fall.

My first stop was at Rocky Gorge, a scenic mini-waterfall and gorge on the Swi River. People lazed around on the rocks, eating lunch or just sitting quietly and taking it in. On one rocky outcropping, a man was fishing for river trout. “Any luck?”

I asked him. “Got one this morning,” he said. “Li le one.” It was 2 p.m. I le with the impression that catching fish isn’t the point of fishing in Rocky Gorge.

Next, I stopped at Sabbaday Falls, a 45-foot waterfall about a third of a mile into the woods that empties into another narrow gorge and a tranquil pool below.

When I got to the top, an older woman

OCTOBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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02/09/2011 11:12

WE HAVE THE BRAINS. Our neuroscience program is led by the brightest, most forward-thinking minds in medicine.

Led by neurosurgeon Dong Kim, M.D., and neurologist James Grotta, M.D., two of the most esteemed physicians in the field of neuroscience, the Mischer Neuroscience Institute at Memorial Hermann–Texas Medical Center was the first in Texas and one of only a few institutions in the country to fully integrate neurology, neurosurgery, neuroradiology and neurorehabilitation for the benefit of our patients. The collective expertise of the world-class team from Memorial Hermann and The University of Texas Health Science Center at Houston (UTHealth) Medical School leads to exceptional patient outcomes and more neuroscience breakthroughs every day. Learn more at mhmni.com.

NEUROSCIENCE BREAKTHROUGHS EVERY DAY

No.32622 Memorial Hermann.indd 1

13/09/2011 10:13

I NNOVATION, I N GE NUITY, RIVER BE N DS A N D OT HE R SO URCES OF RE N EWABLE E N ERGY.

Scan this code to watch our video.

For ages, our river has called to the best and brightest pioneers, innovators and entrepreneurs.

And world leaders in technology, bioscience, energy, manufacturing and other new frontiers still call our river banks, streets and communities home. This is a place where things get done.

A place built on ingenuity. A diverse and energized workforce. Trendsetting green initiatives.

The best place to build your next venture. Bring your business to a place where stories become legend. Deep. In the heart.

Š2011 by San Antonio Convention & Visitors Bureau.

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08/09/2011 11:14

HOW IT’S DONE DURHAM, N.C.

QUIET!!!

A sci-fi staple and perennial fantasy fashion choice, the invisibility cloak has been one of science’s holy grails for years. But while complete literal invisibility still eludes researchers, three Duke engineers—Bogdan-Ioan Popa, Lucian Zigoneanu and Steven Cummer—recently cracked the code to auditory invisibility, constructing a plastic material that can effectively hide objects, like ships, from sound waves, like sonar. It may not allow you to sneak through the halls of Hogwarts undetected, but hey, it’s a start. Here’s how it works.

BY JACQUELINE DETWILER

1

3 2

1 Sonar systems work by sending out sound waves and waiting for them to bounce back with information about objects in the area. So to hide a ship from sonar, you need a way to fake that the sound wave passed straight through it, hit the surface of the water, and returned without bumping into anything.

ILLUSTRATION BY INFOMEN

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2 The cloak is made up of nine layers of plastic punched full of equally sized, equidistant holes. For a sound wave, it’s like hitting a thicket of vines. Passing through it on the way to the ship (and again on the way back) makes the waves take so long to rebound that the receiver thinks they made it all the way to the surface. Bingo, no ship.

3 Just as with a truck’s rearview mirrors, if sound waves can’t see you, you can’t see them. Or hear them, rather: The area under the cloak is effectively silent. Scientists think the material could be used to mute parts of concert halls or to protect workers’ ears. We think it could put a damper on our neighbor’s late-night trumpet recitals. (Finally.)

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • OCTOBER 2011

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02/09/2011 11:12

WHAT TO WEAR: LOS ANGELES

Under the Lights Whether you’re dining at La Scala, knocking back a drink at Soho House or strolling down Rodeo, Hollywood calls for timeless glamour cut with a modern edge STYLED BY WAYMAN BANNERMAN • PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN MCCOY

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09/09/2011 15:24

OPPOSITE PAGE: DOLCE & GABBANA VELVET TUXEDO JACKET, $1,925 • DOLCE & GABBANA PLEATED-BIB TUXEDO SHIRT, $595 • ALEXANDER MCQUEEN STRIPE SKULL PRINT BOW TIE, $145 • CHARVET SILK POLKA DOT POCKET SQUARE, $95, ALL OF THE ABOVE AT MRPORTER.COM THIS PAGE: JUDITH LEIBER CRYSTAL ENVELOPE CLUTCH, $2,295, AT BERGDORF GOODMAN • JIMMY CHOO ABEL POINTED PATENT LEATHER PUMPS, $495, AT NET-A-PORTER.COM • VALENTINO RUFFLED SILK CHIFFON DRESS, $3,500, AT NET-A-PORTER.COM

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • OCTOBER 2011

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culture A RTS M E D I A M A R K E T PL AC E

THE BIG TEN

PRINT

Thar She Blows A funny thing happened to Ohio artist Ma Kish when he read Moby Dick: He developed an Ahab-like obsession. The good news is that his actually ended well. Kish’s book, Moby Dick in Pictures, gathers more than 150 of his original images illustrating Melville’s whale tale, each rendered in a different style. They combine to capture the sublime madness of the original in an entirely novel way. OCTOBER 11

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culture

|||| T Th he B Biig T Te en

5 EXHIBIT

If you were an aspiring artist in Paris 100 years ago, you couldn’t do much better than to be connected to Gertrude Stein. "Seeing Gertrude Stein: Five Stories" at the National Portrait Gallery in Washington, D.C., pays homage to the literary pioneer, muse and tastemaker with more than 50 artifacts and 100 works by artists from across Europe and the U.S. OCTOBER 14

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4

MUSIC

PRECIOUS METALS Canadian songwriter Feist slipped the bonds of indie obscurity to score a major hit with her 2007 release The Reminder (propelled

by Apple’s use of “1234” in an iPod commercial). Her follow-up, Metals, has been a long time coming, but it’s full of the textured moods and irresistible hooks that made The Reminder such a pleasure to discover. OCTOBER 4

PRINT

A DOG’S LIFE Today, when we think of famous dogs, the likes of Lassie and maybe Paris Hilton’s trembling canine accessory spring to mind. But neither of those ever rose to the heights of the subject of Rin Tin Tin. Susan Orlean, author of The Orchid Thief, charts the life of the German Shepherd who went from a lost puppy on a WWI battlefield to a major film, TV and radio icon. OUT NOW

FILM

Skin Deep Spanish auteur Pedro Almodóvar reunites with Antonio Banderas a er 20 years for the genre-bending thriller, The Skin I Live In. In what is certainly one of Almodóvar’s strangest plots (which is saying something), a plastic surgeon invents a kind of skin that would have protected his wife in a car crash 12 years ago. Now he just needs a human guinea pig to make it work. OCTOBER 14

FILM

Aging Well In the future, life may be unfair, but at least the people are a ractive. That’s not exactly the premise of In Time, a sci-fi thriller about a society in which the rich get to live forever and the poor, well, don’t, but with Justin Timberlake as a man caught on a low rung of the socioeconomic ladder and Olivia Wilde as his mother (!), it certainly seems that way. OCTOBER 28

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOSÉ HARO / © EL DESEO, COURTESY OF SONY PICTURES CLASSICS (THE SKIN I LIVE IN); ©2010 ESTATE OF PABLO PICASSO / ARTISTS RIGHTS SOCIETY (ARS), NEW YORK (STEIN);

GOOD INFLUENCE

OCTOBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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|| The Big Ten 9

PRINT

RIDDLE ME THIS In Haruki Murakami’s latest puzzle box, 1Q84, a novelist engaged in an unethical rewrite is mysteriously connected to a woman who has seemingly fallen into a parallel universe.

Critics are calling it the Japanese scribe’s magnum opus, so expect even more eerie coincidences and pop culture symbolism than usual. OCTOBER 25

10

EVENT THEATER

Judgment Day TV

STRIKING A CHORD Martin Scorsese, no stranger to rock docs, gives the mystic Beatle his due with George Harrison: Living in the Material World, airing on HBO. The two-part film includes never-before-seen performances, home movies, photographs and interviews with Harrison’s closest friends, including Eric Clapton, Terry Gilliam, Eric Idle, George Martin and Paul McCartney. OCTOBER 5-6 46

Thandie Newton makes her theatrical debut this month in the psychological thriller Death and the Maiden at the Comedy Theatre in London.

She plays Paulina Salas, a former political prisoner who suffered at the hands of a captor whose face she never saw. Years later, ater, a stranger she believes is her former tormentor mentor arrives at the he secluded house use she shares with her husband. d.

Drama ensues. ues.

OCTOBER 13

SCARES EASILY Ah, October. A month filled with delicious pumpkin pie, hot apple cider and ... blood-curdling screams. Halloween fiends get their fill of the latter at the Screamfest Horror Film Festival, which features the best new scary movies and honors past masters of the macabre over 10 sleepless nights at the historic Mann’s Chinese Theatre in Los Angeles. Warms the heart, doesn’t it?

OCTOBER 14–23

WANT MORE? Download our iPad app.

PHOTOGRAPH BY PAUL CUNNINGHAM / CORBIS (NEWTON)

8

OCTOBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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02/09/2011 11:25

Turn on these headphones and the world becomes a quieter place, as noise around you fades into the background. You can

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1-800-616-2819, ext. Q8375 or visit Bose.com/MP *Bose payment plan available on orders of $299-$1500 paid by major credit card. Separate financing offers may be available for select products. See website for details. Down payment is 1/12 the product price plus applicable tax and shipping charges, charged when your order is shipped. Then, your credit card will be billed for 11 equal monthly installments beginning approximately one month from the date your order is shipped, with 0% APR and no interest charges from Bose. Credit card rules and interest may apply. U.S. residents only. Limit one active financing program per customer. ©2011 Bose Corporation. The distinctive design of the headphone oval ring is a trademark of Bose Corporation. Financing and MileagePlus® award miles offer not to be combined with other offers or applied to previous purchases, and subject to change without notice. Offer valid 10/1/11- 12/31/11. Purchasers must use the phone number or website above to receive this offer. Risk free refers to 30-day trial only, requires product purchase and does not include return shipping. Delivery is subject to product availability. MileagePlus offer valid only on product advertised. The 1,200 miles for above Bose product advertised are awarded in place of the standard Bose offer. If a different product is purchased, the standard offer of 2 MileagePlus miles for every U.S. dollar spent will be honored. Miles accrued and awards issued are subject to the rules of the United MileagePlus® program. United, its subsidiaries, affiliates and agents are not responsible for any products and services of other participating companies or partners. Please allow 6 to 8 weeks after completed qualifying activity for award miles to be posted to your MileagePlus account. Award miles and miles earned through non-flight activity do not count toward elite status.

Award mile offers are subject to change without notice. Taxes and fees related to award travel are the responsibility of the passenger. United may change MileagePlus Program rules, regulations, travel awards and special offers or terminate the MileagePlus program at any time and without notice. MileagePlus participation may not be permitted in some countries. United and MileagePlus are registered service marks. Quote reprinted with permission.

No.32517_Bose_Corporation 1pp.indd 1

30/08/2011 12:59

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02/09/2011 11:28

OCTOBER 2011

THE HEMI Q&A

Martin Sheen He’s one of his generation’s greatest actors and arguably its most beloved fictional president, and he’ll soon be playing Spider-Man’s saintly Uncle Ben. But what Martin Sheen is happiest about is ge ing to work with his new favorite director: his son, Emilio.

BY DAVID CARR ILLUSTRATION BY JEFFREY DECOSTER

49

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THE HEMI Q&A: Martin Sheen

50

MANY HOLLYWOOD MOVIES are built on some sort of cheesy quest in which the character goes through the crucible of: 1. the death of a loved one, 2. a trip to a faraway place and 3. an inner journey, o en spiritual, that parallels the real one.

The Way has all of those things, but is not really one of Those Movies. A film about a father dealing with the death of a son, it was made by the father/son duo of Emilio Estevez and Martin Sheen. In it, Sheen plays Tom, a crabbed, self-satisfied suburban doctor who gets a phone call that his free-spirited son, Daniel, has perished in a storm while walking the Camino de Santiago de Compostela, also known as The Way of Saint James, a religious and personal pilgrimage in Spain.

When Tom goes to collect the remains of his son, he makes a sudden decision to complete the journey that his son couldn’t. Along the way, of course, Tom discovers new things about his son, himself and the world outside the bubble he has been living in. If that sounds a li le cheesy, The Way is anything but. It’s a profoundly personal film about the bond between a father and his son, based on a trip that Sheen took with Taylor Estevez—his grandson and Emilio’s son.

Sheen, in addition to being one of the most celebrated actors of his generation (Apocalypse Now, The Departed, “The West Wing”), is a deeply religious man who has suffered his own trials, including those in the filial department (see his other son, Charlie Sheen). He’s rightfully proud of the film and the way it came together. As it happens, the 500-mile journey it pivots around, which so changed Tom, has le some marks on Martin as well.

HEMISPHERES: When did you and

Emilio decide to do this film?

SHEEN: It goes back a ways. I started telling Emilio stories about the Camino when I was still doing “The West Wing.” I became very interested in it as a pilgrimage and in the summer of 2003, I decided to give it a try. I invited my grandson Taylor to walk with me. He had just graduated from high school. I had to get back to start shooting the next season of “The West Wing,” so we decided the best, quickest way to do it was by car.

HEMISPHERES: Cheater.

SHEEN: We cheated. But on the first stop, Taylor met his future wife. Her parents own one of the refugios, the rural places you stay on the journey. That was the first of many miracles on the Camino.

CONTINUED ON PAGE 138 »

PHOTOGRAPHS BY STEVE SCHAPIRO/CORBIS (ESTEVEZ AND SHEEN); DAVID ALEXANIAN (THE WAY); GEORGE PIMENTEL/WIREIMAGE (SHEEN)

JOURNEYMAN From left, a 1970s-era Sheen and a young Emilio; hiking the Camino de Santiago de Compostela in The Way; expounding in his best Jed Bartlet manner at a benefit in Toronto in 2010

OCTOBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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No.31747 Solmar Hotels.indd 1

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06/05/2011 15:57

the goods

Freeze Frame Artists from around the globe collaborate on one very cool goggle

BY JACQUELINE DETWILER

When Sco announced that its new Global Art Edition goggle had been designed chain-le er style, with one artist from every continent contributing work, everyone in the ski and snowboard world wondered the same thing: “Who’d they get in Antarctica?” (An artist from New South Wales who did her Ph.D. research there, it turns out.) Though the two available models both offer OptiView double lenses, anti-fog and 100 percent UV protection, it’s the otherworldly art that makes them indispensable. $150 / sco -sports.com

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • OCTOBER 2011

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culture

|| The Goods 1

2

On the Double Skis, poles and gloves to make your day on the mountain twice as nice 1 If you’re gonna go big—backcountry, steep-faced, mountains-of-powder big—you’re gonna want Fischer Watea 101 skis. They feature powder hulls and rocker technology, which puts more of your skis in contact with the snow when you initiate a turn. Plus, the art makes the tips look snow-covered.

Consider that a plea to the weather gods. $850 / fischersports.com 2 Skiers who get all Gertrude Stein about poles (a pole is a pole is a pole), take note: K2’s Lockjaw Carbon/Carbon poles are lightweight, can measure slope angle and snow depth, have a comfortable curved handle and are adjustable even when you’re wearing gloves. $180 / k2skis.com 3 When it comes to skiing, newer is always be er ... except when it isn’t.

Hestra has been cra ing triple-layer insulated, goat leather gloves since 1936, and they still offer unmatched warmth and comfort. When it comes to cold weather, you can always trust the Swedes. $155 / hestragloves.com

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OCTOBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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|| The Goods

2

It’s All Downhill From Here e es for Two new technologies ng painless snowboarding

1 Hemp-infused H i f d urethane th makes k up the top layer of Ride’s new Arcade snowboard, cu ing the need for plastic and dropping the weight. The resulting ride is more maneuverable than regular boards, for tighter turns with less “arrruunnngghhhh.” $600 / ridesnowboards.com

2 A new fabric created by luxury ski outfi er Spyder vastly increases the breathability of jackets like the Zerma . Wear it and your boarding buddies will never see you sweat ... because you won’t be sweating. $500 / spyder.com

1 WANT MORE? Download our iPad app.

56

OCTOBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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bright ght ideas

The Bean Counter How one maddeningly particular chef transformed the lowly burrito into a global business juggernaut

BY CRISTINA ROUVALIS

PHOTOGRAPH: CHRISTOPHER LANE / CONTOUR BY GETTY IMAGES ES E S

FOR STEVE ELLS, no detail is too small.

The fluff of a tortilla. The fineness of diced onion ... The air conditioning in his chauffeur-driven SUV. The same scene unfolds every time Ells, the founder of burrito chain Chipotle, is picked up at the airport. A er he sinks into the back seat, he asks the driver to adjust the temperature and flow—higher or perhaps a little to the le —until the air hits him just so. “He makes the driver crazy, absolutely crazy,” says Ells’ co-CEO Monty Moran. “But Steve is a walking barometer. He senses things more than other people, even more than he cares to.”

Over the past 18 years, Ells’ heightened senses have recast the burrito from gloppy Tex-Mex staple into what the chain touts as “a handcra ed, local-farm-supporting, food-culture-changing cylinder of deliciousness.” In the process, he has grown Chipotle to an 1,100-store, $1.84 billion chain on pace to open about 135 new locations this year. It’s the second-fastest-growing

58

OCTOBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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02/09/2011 11:47

A Whole New Way to Enjoy the Ride!

iBike Dash™

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Where will it take you? *Access to GPS through your iPhone, **iBike Dash Fitness Upgrade required for heart rate training programs.

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OVERSEAS MANUFACTURING ISN’T AS SCARY AS YOU THINK. ITI, an American company headquartered in Houston, has been helping clients manufacture goods in China for over 35 years – boosting profits and reducing costs. ITI has unlocked the mysteries of foreign cultures, languages and trade customs, creating significant manufacturing savings over domestically produced goods – while maintaining or improving delivery expectations.

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|| Bright Ideas

restaurant chain in the country based on customer traffic (behind Five Guys Burgers and Fries), according to the NPD Group, a market research firm. And while many restaurants are struggling to shake off the recessionary blues, Chipotle has posted double-digit same-store sales increases during the past three quarters.

At present, it’s exporting its assemblyline-style kitchens and gourmet burritos abroad, with a second store opening in London and its first in Paris.

What’s more, Ells was one of the celebrity chefs judging the NBC reality show “America’s Next Great Restaurant,” though, unlike every other person who’s ever jumped at the chance to be on reality TV, he’s coldly dismissive of his newfound stardom. “Do you watch reality TV?” he asks sardonically when the subject arises.

He might as well be asking if you eat processed cheese.

Ells started out as a line cook at Stars, a lauded fine dining restaurant in San Francisco, a er graduating with a degree in art history from the University of Colorado in Boulder and then from the Culinary Institute of America. Living in San Francisco, he began sampling the wares of Mission District taquerias. The lines were long, and the food was inexpensive and delicious.

That’s where the idea hit him to open a burrito joint with a foodie twist: cilantrolime rice and grilled meat marinated with chipotle chiles.

His father gave him $85,000—part loan and part investment—to open the first Chipotle in Denver in 1993. The restaurant was such a success that he opened a second one. And a third. In 1998, when Chipotle was just a 12-store chain, Ells formed an unlikely partnership with McDonald’s, which invested $360 million in his young venture. Flush with fresh capital, Chipotle took off, growing to about 500 stores. People gave the fresh-ingredient evangelist flack for uniting with the fast food giant, but Ells once again didn’t listen.

“Who else is going to give you $360 million over a seven-year period and still let you run the business?” he says.

When Chipotle went public in 2006, McDonald’s sold its majority stake. “At the end of the day, we ran very different businesses,” says Ells. Though the companies parted, one McDonald’s executive, Jack Hartung, was so impressed that he jumped ship to become Chipotle’s chief financial officer. His boss at the Golden Arches was

60

FOOD FIGHT The burrito craze of recent years has propelled not just Chipotle to soaring heights, but other chains as well. Moe’s Southwest Grill stands at 430 locations, more than doubled from five years ago, and Qdoba added 262 stores between 2007 and 2010. Here’s how the big four stack up.

NUMBE R of STO RES CH I POTLE

Q DO BA

1100+

550

MO E ’S SO UTH WEST GRI LL

BAJA FRESH MEXICAN GRILL

430

255

taken aback, but Hartung had never seen a businessman like Ells. “He was fanatical about the food. He didn’t mention profit margin. He is particular beyond reason sometimes,” the CFO says, citing how Ells would personally inspect the caulking between the plywood and corrugated metal at his restaurants to ensure it met his exacting standards.

Ells’ fastidiousness extended to ingredients, as well. A er visiting Niman Ranch, a California-based purveyor of “all-natural” meats, 12 years ago, he declared that Chipotle carnitas would henceforth be made from humanely raised pork. The pigs tasted better when they were free to exercise in the sun and were fed a vegetarian diet free of hormones and antibiotics, he says. This year, Chipotle expects to use 100 million pounds of naturally raised meat and 10 million pounds of produce from local farms.

Now Ells is applying his perfectionism to a prototype called ShopHouse Southeast Asian Kitchen, expected to open in D.C. this fall. The chain is hush-hush about the new concept, except to say it is inspired by family-run restaurants in Thailand, Malaysia and Vietnam. Diners will be able to customize a meal from rice and noodles, grilled and braised meats, fresh vegetables, herbs, spicy sauces and garnishes.

Of course, history is li ered with brand extension fiascoes (Harley-Davidson wine coolers, Bic underwear). As Jack Trout, a marketing strategist based in Greenwich, Conn., puts it, “It’s a long way from Mexico to Thailand.” But Ells says he knows food, not just Mexican food, and besides, he’s grown rich ignoring the conventional wisdom. When he launched Chipotle, “They said people didn’t want to see raw meat on the grill. They said people didn’t want to see the back of the kitchen. They thought the price points were too high. They said the décor was too industrial,” Ells says. “The naysayers were wrong.”

CRISTINA ROUVALIS, a writer in Pittsburgh, would like hers with extra guacamole, please.

OCTOBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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08/08/2011 09:48

WATER WORKS

The Waterway Square District in The Woodlands Town Center offers a refreshing perspective.

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08/09/2011 11:55

tech

Work Crew The latest business laptops are a world away from their boxy, bu oned-down forebears

BY TOM SAMILJAN

AS A FREQUENT BUSINESS TRAVELER, I primarily need three things from my laptops: compactness, a spacious keyboard and ba ery life long enough to get me from New York to L.A. I also want a webcam and the ability to watch movies, play games or stream music without having to add external speakers. And a bit of style never hurts.

Five years ago, that was a tall order for any notebook, much less a business one. But thanks in part to ever faster and smaller processors, a serious work laptop can now be had for as li le as $500.

The models I recently tested all had webcams, two USB ports and memory card slots. Most important for business travelers, none was more than an inch thick.

The Lenovo X1 ($1,300) is essentially a slim, modern version of the classic Thinkpad laptop, down to the rugged black casing and the iconic red trackpoint controller in the center of the keys. The spacious backlit keyboard is spill-resistant and has molded keys that are a pure delight to use. The slim ba ery lasts only three hours, but can charge up to 80 percent in just 30 minutes, a feature that comes in handy during layovers. It’s fast, too, with the state-of-the-art i7 processor usually found in bigger laptops like the MacBook Pro. Bigger and boxier, with subtly different shades of brushed metal across its casing, the HP ProBook 5330m ($800) looks the way a laptop might have looked if Jacob Jensen had designed it for Bang & Olufsen in the ’80s. Which is fi ing, as it’s one of the first business notebooks to really pay a ention to audio. With the addition of Beats Audio, it offers surprising clarity and depth, and even bass that sounds full and defined without distortion. The ProBook also comes with a host of CIA-grade security features, like login via facial recognition (which requires posing for almost a dozen images from different angles), password and fingerprint.

While many business notebooks still come in black or brushed-metal silver, the Dell Vostro V131 (starting at $500) is a perfect example of the aesthetic liberation of the form. In addition to boring gray, it comes in a brilliant metallic red. Besides 9.5-hour ba ery life and a speedy dual-core i5 processor, the V131 has built-in WiDi, a wireless technology that lets your computer connect with, say, an office projector, in order to show presentations or videos.

The elephant in the room is the MacBook Air (starting at $999), a modern-day marvel that starts up in less than 30 seconds. Truth be told, the superslim Air continues to be my personal favorite for business or pleasure—not to mention a fine iPad killer—but I’m still a daily user of PCs as well. Why? Because, cool factor aside, where design and features are concerned, the greatest variety and innovation are happening in the PC/Windows arena. And in a world of ubiquitous Apple iPhones and laptops, variety is something to be championed.

TRAVELING COMPANIONS From top, the Lenovo X1; the HP ProBook 5330m; the Dell Vostro V131; and the MacBook Air

TOM SAMILJAN can’t wait for the day when he can fold up his razor-thin, OLED laptop and put it into his pocket.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • OCTOBER 2011

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63

02/09/2011 11:53

THE CENTER FOR REGENERATIVE MEDICINE

A NON-SURGICAL TECHNIQUE TO FIGHT AGAINST ARTHRITIS AND SPORTS INJURIES

Located at 1001 N.E. 125th Street, Miami, Florida, The Center For Regenerative Medicine includes a team of professionals that are dedicated to improve your quality of life, paving the way to enhance the science of non-surgical orthopedic medicine. World champions, sports legends, professional and amateur athletes, dancers, and people with just plain pain and arthritis go to The Center For Regenerative Medicine for non-surgical orthopedic care. Using the facility to improve their condition, thousands of successful cases have been treated over the past nine years.

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This is how it works: The physician introduces Cell Therapy into damaged, arthritic cells by means of a precise injection. This process is followed by infrared laser as well as several other modalities including Collateral Artery Flow Exercises (C.A.F.E.), in order to accelerate the process. Depending on tissue damage, severity of the condition and the size of the joint that needs to be injected, people usually need a series of 1 to 6 treatments to improve. There is usually no down time, and people can go back to their usual activities or work immediately. The treatments can help most musculoskeletal problems such as low back pain, neck pain, knee pain, shoulder pain, whiplash, sciatica, tendinitis, sprain, strains, torn ligaments and cartilage damage.

For more information please visit: www.arthritisusa.net or call (305) 866-8384 International: (305) 891-4686

08/09/2011 11:56

the fan

Bull!

A nerve-racking, dustkicking whirlwind tour of the toughest eight seconds in sports

BY ADAM K. RAYMOND

ILLUSTRATION BY ALEX NABAUM

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BULL RIDING HAS BEEN CALLED the toughest eight seconds in sports, the most dangerous eight seconds in sports and the most painfully stressful eight seconds in sports (that last one is mine). An excellent bull rider like Brazil’s Robson Palermo can make those eight seconds look relatively serene, but as Palermo showed at a recent Professional Bull Riders competition in Thackerville, Okla., even when you control a bull for eight seconds, he’ll get you in the ninth.

“I knew that bull was mean,” Palermo told me a er a tussle with a 1,500-pound devil in bull’s clothing named Mad Max. A er thwarting Max’s a empts to throw him for eight seconds, the length of time necessary to qualify for a score, Palermo lost control. Max threw the rider forward and shot his own massive head back, bashing Palermo’s telenovela-ready jaw with one of his megaphone-size horns.

Then he threw Palermo to the ground and, in an a empt to ensure that everyone knew he deserved his name, Mad Max hooked the man by the legs and flung him six feet into the air like a farmer flings hay. Palermo landed with a thud, popped back up and limped his way to safety. It had been 11 seconds.

“That boy got me pre y good in the jaw, but I’ve already moved on to the next one,” Palermo said, explaining to me that if a bull rider ever gets scared, “he be er quit.”

If that applies to spectators, too, then I guess I’m done. I was standing a full 30 feet from Palermo, and the only thing consuming me more than the late summer heat was the fear. I feared for Palermo, a five-foot-six tank of a man who grew

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • OCTOBER 2011

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culture

|| The Fan

up in the Brazilian jungle; I feared for the bull, whose unresolved anger issues made me wonder if he’d ever have a stable home life; and I feared for myself, because along with being a chicken, I’m incredibly self-absorbed.

And it wasn’t just the bulls that had me on edge. Nearly everything about the place made me uncomfortable, from the long-sleeved bu on-down shirts everyone wore on a 103-degree day to the name of one of the contest’s sponsors, Exclusive Genetics. But as a sports fan, a Southerner and a man who thinks he looks good in cowboy boots, I’ve challenged myself to see what the buzz is all about. And make no mistake: There’s buzz. Professional Bull Riders a racts upward of 1.5 million people to 300 sanctioned events annually, selling out in cities as far apart geographically and culturally as New York and Des Moines, and, in the surest sign of mainstream validation, there are now trading cards featuring the faces of PBR riders.

So I made my way to this Built Ford Tough Series event, the major leagues of bull riding, just across the border from Texas. It was the first time the series had held a competition outdoors since 2005, but you wouldn’t have known it by looking at the place. A makeshi PBR arena seemed to have sprung from the middle

KICKIN’ IT Robson Palermo, dancing with Wild & Out for 91.25 points and the win at a PBR event in Chicago

of a parched Oklahoma field, just a few steps from the WinStar World Casino, a massive gambling fortress.

Punky and Jim Nyberg, who wear the sun-scorched faces of longtime North Texas ranchers, snagged seats in the desert sun a full two hours before the bull riding began. “I’m an animal person.

I grew up with horses,” Punky said by way of explaining her love of the sport. It’s not just the animals, though. The riders, she said, are some of the toughest sons of guns to ever strap on a pair of chaps. “These guys have to be in perfect shape. I have seen them just get the daylights banged out of them and get right back up.”

The best bulls on the tour are the ones that are hardest to ride. As these three top specimens prove, they’re also the ones with the most intimidating names.

BUSHWACKER

I’M A GANGSTER

VOODOO CHILD

Times ridden for 8 seconds: 0 (out of 20 total rides) Average buckoff time: 3.01 seconds

Times ridden for 8 seconds: 2 (out of 29 total rides) Average buckoff time: 3.56 seconds

Times ridden for 8 seconds: 4 (out of 27 total rides) Average buckoff time: 4.02 seconds

“He’s a smart bull.

Every time he leaves the chute, he’s got something for you.”

—BULL RIDER ROBSON PALERMO

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“He’s dirty and he can dang-sure buck.”

— BULL RIDER J.B. MAUNEY

“To ride that bull, you have to have everything just right.”

— BULL RIDER L.J. JENKIN

PHOTOGRAPH BY ANDY WATSON / BULLSTOCK MEDIA

MEGA BUCKS

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Soon I would too. As I quickly learned, bull riding tends to go like this: A scrawny kid who looks just like the guys in the grandstands climbs on top of a bull waiting in a chute. A er positioning himself and firmly gripping a rope that encircles the bull’s haunches, he gives a nod and the chute door swings open. Immediately, the bull is hopping and popping and spinning, his muscles bulging. The rider either lasts eight seconds, in which case he’s awarded a score (up to 50 points for him and 50 points for the bull), or he doesn’t.

But every rider, no ma er how well he handles that bull, ends up on the ground.

And each time, I was absolutely certain he was going to be trampled. Inevitably, though, just as the bull seemed prepared to gore the fallen rider, one of the three “agile bullfighters,” which is what we’re calling rodeo clowns these days, showed up to distract the bull and avert catastrophe.

“There’s a right way to get off these animals and avoid getting hurt,” said Luke Snyder, a 28-year-old bull rider who was once able to avoid serious injury long enough to ride in a record 275 consecutive PBR events. “It happens so fast though. It’s like a car crash. You just don’t have time to think about it.”

On the second night of competition— many PBR events last for either two or three nights—I wandered down to the makeshi stables before the hooting and hollering started. There, soaking up the sun like a bunch of land-based elephant seals, were the bulls. In the daylight they looked like every he y farm animal I’d ever driven by: docile, sleepy and not at all concerned with me. As people close OCTOBER CROSSWORD ANSWERS

to PBR kept telling me, these bulls are performers. They know that the bright lights signal that it’s time to get mean, and the rest of the time they’re treated like a million bucks—or at least $100,000, which is what they can be worth.

Every rider has his own way of handling these beasts in the arena. Palermo says the key is balance and flexibility. “Everywhere the bull moves, you need to move with him.” Snyder says it’s about finding that sweet spot on the bull’s back. “You try to get into a rocking-horse position and take the bull’s power away. When you get it and you’re on a roll, it’s easy. Sometimes it’s harder than heck to find, though.”

It’s never harder for a rider than when he’s on a rank bull, which isn’t a bull that stinks—though it is a bull, so it probably does—but a bull known to throw his body around with an extra level of intensity.

Since half the rider’s score is determined by how difficult the bull is to ride, rank bulls tend to be the most popular with the riders.

They soon became the most popular with me, too. Watching the best riders mount the rankest bulls is what finally helped me get it. Even while the bulls forcefully bounded up and down, the best riders remained unfathomably upright, compensating for each jolt and anticipating the next one. Snyder told me that a bull and a cowboy are like dance partners. Over the course of the competition, I began to see it. The bull led and the rider would follow. There was a strange grace and beauty to it all.

I left Thackerville infinitely more knowledgeable about bull riding than when I arrived. I’d learned about flank straps and rank bulls, the sport’s byzantine scoring system, and that in the bull riding world it’s completely normal to be named Stormy Wing or Ryan Dirteater. I was also ready to admit that, yes, bull riding actually is the toughest, most dangerous, most fascinating eight seconds in sports. That being said, the only way I’d ever get on a bull is if it was surrounded by padding, plugged into a wall and in the middle of an establishment that serves cheap beer, and maybe some mozzarella sticks.

IS THE BAG that holds the computer with the presentation that will win us the business and get me promoted.

samsonite.com

ADAM K. RAYMOND, a writer in Indianapolis,

S A M S O N I T E TO U G H

once managed to stay on his couch for a full eight hours.

B U S I N E S S R E A DY

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • OCTOBER 2011

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THIS

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08/09/2011 10:54

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Building the world’s leading airline means centering it around you. The finest people in the industry providing superior service. World-class lounges and a modern aircraft fleet for reliability and comfort. And a frequent flyer program backed by an unparalleled route network means more rewards and more options. In other words, we’re building a better way to go. For information and reservations, go to united.com.

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FEATURES ILLUSTRATION BY OLIVER JEFFERS

»72

The Chinese are absolutely fanatical about basketball. They couldn’t care less about baseball. Meet the man who aims to sell China on America’s Pastime.

BY JOHN B. THOMPSON PHOTOGRAPHS BY LAURA BARISONZI

»78 On the hunt for one of Spain’s rarest (and strangest) birds, our correspondent suddenly finds himself deep in the obsessive world of extreme birding.

BY STEPHAN TALTY ILLUSTRATIONS BY MEGAN BERKHEISER & MIKE CALDWELL

»84

The Big Apple is known mostly for its stratospheric heights, but if you really want to plumb the city’s soul, start at ground level.

BY LAYLA SCHLACK PHOTOGRAPHS BY CHRIS SANDERS

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By John B. Thompson • Photographs by Laura Barisonzi

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Of China’s 1.3 billion people, very, very few play, or even care about, baseball.

This guy aims to change that.

(Just don’t mention Yao Ming.)

“CHINA’S MR. BASEBALL” Rick Dell at the MLB training facility in Wuxi

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“SOMETIMES YOU START to think you’re Ronald McDonald with a fungo bat,” Rick Dell says. It’s Family Day at the ballpark, and while Dell and his staff have tried to organize some a ernoon entertainment, he’s already disappointed. The Tibetan players haven’t put on their costumes for the traditional dance this year.

Watching them stomp around the mound in their baseball uniforms just isn’t the same. Worse, the weather is dismal for a June Sunday, with a smoggy haze se ling defiantly at the edges of the field like the barrier to another world.

But Dell’s mood is set to li . Soldier is about to show the parents how to hit. >>> 74

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“I AM MY HAPPIEST T ON A BASEBALL DIAMOND,” SAYS 15-YEAR-OLD ZHU U SONGJUN, NICKNAMED AMED “SOLDIER.” “IT IS AN N UNSPEAKABLE FEELING.” ELING.”

THE DRILL Top and left, Rick Dell leads his squad through practice and a scrimmage in Wuxi; right, “Soldier”” snags a fly ball

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PROSPECTING FOR GOLD Above and below right, scenes from training camp

As an instructor explains the mechanics at work, Soldier approaches a tee at home plate and sets his feet into the familiar pits in the right-handed ba er’s box. His body tightens for the moment it takes him to set his stance and then unwinds, smooth as a spindle, sending his bat into the ball and the ball into deep center field, trailed by the delighted gasps of onlookers.

Soldier is Zhu Songjun. He’s a lithe six feet and 170 pounds. He can run 60 yards in seven seconds and throw a baseball over 80 mph. He’s 15, a Chinese kid chasing a quintessentially American dream: to play baseball in the majors. “I am my happiest on a baseball diamond,” Soldier says, in Chinese. “It is an unspeakable feeling.” Dell, Major League Baseball’s director of baseball development in Asia, brought the teenager here to the MLB Development Center in Zhu’s hometown of Wuxi, an ancient city on the Yangtze River fast becoming entangled in the sprawl of Shanghai, some 80 miles away.

On a map of China in Dell’s Beijing office, Wuxi is just a dot in a constellation of other dots that make up China’s baseball galaxy. The points on the map, from Xinjiang in the far west to Fujian in the remote south, mark every place baseball exists in the country, including expatriate li le leagues and MLB’s own youth camps. These are the places Dell and his staff scour, offering the best young players the chance to enroll at the two-year-old Development Center.

Dell hand-picked every player here—all 37 of them—and he invented Soldier’s nickname, as well as the sobriquets for “Shoeshine” and “Wanger” and “Bernie” and everyone else, which aren’t nicknames as much as they are placeholders for Chinese names that Dell can’t pronounce. His efforts have earned him a nickname of his own: A colleague calls him “China’s CONTINUED ON PAGE 140 » 76

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THE HIT SQUAD From left, “Sky,” “James,” Rick Dell, “Cowboy” and “Soldier”

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H E M I S P H E R E S M AG A Z I N E .C O M • O C T O

BER 2011

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Recently, on a blisteringly hot day, Muddeman took me to the foothills of the Sierra de Guadarrama mountains, 40 kilometers north of Madrid, in search of a very elusive species: the White-rumped Swi .

Though relatively common in subSaharan Africa, the swi is a rarity in this part of the world. In fact, there have been only two sightings in the last 50 years.

But elusiveness isn’t its only appeal: The White-rumped Swi is also a very weird bird. It can remain airborne for years at a time, feeding and sleeping on the wing.

Half a million miles might go by before it alights. Muddeman swore this is true.

“They are,” he said, “aerodynamic machines of the first order.”

Yeah, I’d like to see one of those.

I should say here that I’m not into birding. Birding is for people who wear many-pocketed shorts and rough woolen socks, people who know how to make ne le tea. I don’t even own a pair of binoculars. So, as Muddeman started to tell me the story of the orthopedic surgeon,

REFERENCE IMAGES FOR EAGLE AND CUCKOO, COURTESY OF EXTREMADURAPHOTOS.WEBS.COM

We’d been looking for the Whiterumped Swift for three hours when John Muddeman told me the story of the orthopedic surgeon. Muddeman, a transplanted Brit who looks like a healthier Sean Penn, lives outside Madrid, a city that bills itself as one of the birding capitals of Europe. He’s been guiding birders for 30 years, and eight years ago he cofounded the eco-tourism outfit Iberian Wildlife Tours. He’ll take you on insect expeditions, wildflower jaunts and rabbit hops, but his main love is birds, as even the briefest of conversations with him will make clear.

Birds, he’ll say. Birds, birds, birds.

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an American client he guided a few years back, my only thought was: This guy sounds kind of nuts. And by most standards, he kind of was.

Birders are, by nature, acquisitive creatures. They are especially fond of creating checklists—birds they’ve seen, birds they haven’t. It’s when birders get down to the last three or four unseen species that things can get strange. This is when the diehards tend to become afflicted by what people in the game call List Fever.

The orthopedic surgeon had it. Muddeman picked the man up at his Madrid hotel and was immediately subjected to a litany of demands. There were seven birds on the surgeon’s wish list, at the top of which stood the Great Spo ed Cuckoo.

Despite years of intense searching, the American explained, the cuckoo had eluded him. It wasn’t so much the man’s words that worried Muddeman as the look that accompanied them. A look that could best be described as fearful.

It was the tail end of summer when the two men set out late in the Spanish season for the Great Spo ed Cuckoo, which favors Africa in the winter months. Many of the migratory species were beginning to fly south. Ge ing the cuckoo would be big.

Capital B big. Muddeman, a gentle, low-key man by nature, listened to the surgeon’s aspirations with a sense of quiet foreboding.

As the hot sun beat down, the two men tore over the local foothills, training their binoculars on crevices and listening intently for the bird’s distinctive call: chercher-kri-kri. By the end of the second day, they’d knocked most of the species off the surgeon’s list, but the Great Spo ed Cuckoo was nowhere to be seen, and between his precisely timed power naps in the car, the surgeon was ge ing more and more uptight.

“I’ll never get it!” he screamed at one point. His tone was accusatory, as if the guide had somehow contrived to kidnap the last Great Spo ed Cuckoo in Spain and was holding it against its will.

As he recalled the trip, Muddeman’s knuckles grew white on the steering wheel; he hates to disappoint a client. But now it was happening again. We’d been prowling the outskirts of Madrid for hours, looking in vain for the White-rumped Swi , and I was beginning to understand how the surgeon felt.

The swi was my Great Spo ed Cuckoo.

HEN IT COMES TO obsession, the orthopedic surgeon was very much in the minor leagues. The real players are the socalled Big Listers: birders who have made a solemn vow to lay eyes on every single one of earth’s 7,000 or so species. The number of people who have actually achieved this goal is about the same as those who have walked on the moon. These are not your weekend dabblers. These are the guys who disappear into the jungle and reemerge weeks or months later proclaiming they’ve spo ed the last surviving Ivorybilled Woodpecker. Or, just as o en, they

get divorced, lose their homes and end up never finding the object of their desire.

The White-rumped Swi is a bird for extreme birders, if only because it’s also kind of nuts. For one thing, this bird doesn’t go for building nests. Instead, it invades the homes of another species, the Red-rumped Swallow, fighting and bickering until its victim flies away in terror.

There are stories of people finding Whiterumped Swi s lying on the ground with their claws death-locked into the flesh of an opponent.

I wanted one.

Three hours into our hunt, however, running into one of these thuggish birds

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REFERENCE IMAGE FOR SWIFT COURTESY OF JOHAN AND LIZET GROBBELAAR: REFERENCE IMAGE FOR MUDDEMAN: PABLO A. MONTIEL

was looking like an increasingly unlikely prospect. I was hot, parched and sulky.

“John, do you really think we’ll find it?”

I asked as we trudged back to the car a er another failed bid.

“I don’t know,” he said. “I’ve looked for it very, very hard with no luck.”

For 14 years, he’d looked for it.

We jumped into his little Citroën. I turned away and stared out the window at flocks of non-swi s.

VER THE COURSE of our day together, Muddeman taught me how to look at birds. It’s not only coloring and size, he said brightly, but things like “hand”— the position of the end of the wing—and the attitude of the head. The bird we were looking for is small and black, with oversize wings and a fringe of white striping at the base of its tail. To the untrained eye, it looks almost exactly like the House Martin, except on the Martin the white continues all the way up the belly.

Muddeman can spot the difference at 200 yards. And if he doesn’t see a bird, he’ll hear it. Sixty percent of the birds he spots are found by sound alone. It also helps to be able to identify a nest, he said. A telltale mark of a White-rumped Swi ’s is a rim of white feathers at its opening. “We’re not sure why they do that,” he said. “But they come into the nest at high speed in the dark, so it might be like a set of lights on an aircra carrier.”

We made our way to a huge reservoir.

Fish lazed in the dark green bowl of water and birds flu ered overhead. This rocky, sloping landscape, Muddeman said, is precisely the kind of environment that a racts the Red-rumped Swallow—and so, potentially, the White-rumped Swi .

Sure enough, there they were: dozens of the apparently unmolested swallows, feeding in the air and swooping down to their cliffside nests. These were joined by a few black House Martins that seemed to be toying with us, looking enticingly like our birds until they flipped over to reveal their white bellies. No swi s.

We returned to the sweltering car and headed back toward Madrid, necks craned to look up through the windshield, like UFO hunters. “It’s really a one-in-a-million shot,” Muddeman sighed.

He glanced up.

“A nice Imperial Eagle over there.”

I nodded and brought up my binoculars.

It was indeed a Spanish Imperial Eagle, big and impressive, with a downward hand that made it look like an American hawk.

We spent two more hours crisscrossing hills and skirting small towns, peering into every passing stone structure, culvert and bridge. Muddeman pointed to a pod-like bunker 30 yards from the road.

“That’d be a good spot,” he said, pulling over.

“What is it?”

“Civil War bunker.”

I tramped over and peered inside one of the thin gun slits, seeing nothing but pi ed concrete and tangled weeds in the gloomy interior. No white feathers. I took a few steps back and imagined half-starved Spanish Republicans charging the bunker with their bayonets flashing in the sun, the Nationalists hunkered down, waiting for the moment to fire. It struck me then that birdwatching isn’t only about watching birds. This bunker wasn’t on my list, but it was worth looking at.

Our journey was coming to an end. As dusk approached, we headed for a large rocky outcrop called the Peña de Cadalso.

Small birds circled the hill’s stony top, riding the currents, catching bugs and aerial plankton as the hot air pushed them up the slope.

“I’ll be damned!” Muddeman cried a er about two minutes. “There it is, right there.”

“You’re lying. Where?!”

“There, right below the big cloud, at about 1,200 meters. It’s moving to the le . Fast.”

The blue sky dipped in my binoculars as I scanned the air. Swallow, swallow, House Martin. And then I saw it. The black bird was shooting to the east and the base of its tail flashed white. Muddeman was laughing manically. “Bloody hell! That’s brilliant!”

We clapped each other on the back and grinned at people in passing cars.

I brought up the glasses again and followed the bird as it looped overhead; then we spo ed its mate. Not only had we claimed the third Madrid sighting in nearly 50 years, but Muddeman suspected that the White-rumped Swi was actually nesting here, claiming new territory.

“People will be rushing out here from Madrid,” he shouted before ge ing on the phone to call his partner. I could hear a voice whooping on the other end of the line.

As we drove back to the city, Muddeman told me the epilogue to the surgeon story.

The next day, with the disappointed birder on a plane back to the U.S., the guide picked up another client, and they drove into the hills. The first bird that flapped lazily across their path?

The Great Spo ed Cuckoo.

STEPHAN TALTY, who currently lives in Madrid,

is working on a book about the British double agent and World War II hero Juan Pujol Garcia, a.k.a. “Garbo.”

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THREE PERFECT DAYS

NEW YORK CITY

New York is the most wri en-about, sung-about, studied, chronicled and filmed city in America— maybe the world—and its stories, monuments and a ractions are too numerous to count.

So where do you start? Just go for a walk.

BY LAYLA SCHLACK • PHOTOGRAPHS BY CHRIS SANDERS

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DAY ONE ONE A briskDAY walk in a

A briskbig walk in a big park park

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DAY TWO DAY TWO

Dining Diningunder underthe thebridge bridge

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DAY THREE Chowing down in Chinatown DAY THREE

Chowing down in Chinatown

POINTS OF ENTRY Opposite, Grand Central Terminal; this page, the Brooklyn Bridge

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THREE PERFECT DAYS NEW YORK CITY

LOOK OUT, BELOW From left, the view of Central Park from the Ritz-Carlton; dumplings at Dim Sum Go Go; the fountain at Washington Square Park

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NEW YORK CITY: the name alone conjures images of the Empire State Building, the Statue of Liberty, Rockefeller Center and the pulsing lights of Times Square. While those are worthy sights, the soul of the city lies closer to the ground, in its neighborhoods, its parks, its history and its people—and there is no be er way to experience it all than on foot. It would take more than a lifetime to grasp the full, five-borough scope of the Big Apple, but don’t let that deter you. As Thomas Wolfe wrote, “One belongs to New York instantly, one belongs to it as much in five minutes as in five years.” He was right. And those five minutes will keep you coming back for years, even decades, to come.

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WASHINGTON SQUARE: PRISMA BILDGENTOR AG / ALAMY

DAY ONE | Begin the day stretched out on your king-size bed high outside. You get yours with cream cheese and lox, and take it to go.

Head a few blocks east to Central Park (3) and stroll through the up in The Ritz-Carlton (1), watching the sunshine wash over the manicured vastness of Central Park. Donning a plush robe, you wander Great Lawn, an impeccable 55-acre green that, while originally a over to the window and use the telescope provided to reservoir, has been a prime picnicking ground since survey what feels like your dominion. The scene below 1937. Now, in the autumnal chill, you mostly see people WANT MORE? beckons, but then so does breakfast. Breakfast wins. walking their dogs and the odd urban forager digging Download our iPad app.

Step outside and have the doorman hail you a taxi. up mushrooms around the edges. To the north of the Your destination is 72nd Street Bagel (2), for a quintessenlawn is the Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis Reservoir.

Framed on either side by stately apartment buildings, it’s a favortially New York start to the day. Behind an unassuming storefront, ite jogging track of Bill Clinton and Madonna, and a perfect spot this popular spot serves the best whole wheat everything bagel in the city. It’s so and chewy on the inside, with a bit of crust on the for a morning constitutional.

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THREE PERFECT DAYS NEW YORK CITY

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DAY ONE (1) The Ritz-Carlton New York, Central Park 50 Central Park South; Tel: 212-308-9100 (2) 72nd Street Bagel 130 West 72nd St.; Tel: 212-595-1300 (3) Central Park (4) Neue Galerie 1048 5th Ave.; Tel: 212-628-6200 (5) Grand Central Terminal Park Ave. and 42nd St. (6) Per Se 10 Columbus Cir.; Tel: 212-823-9335

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Stopping short of the full 1.58-mile loop around the reservoir, step out of the park and walk to the corner of Fi h Avenue and 86th Street. There, you find the Neue Galerie (4), set in a gorgeous Beaux-Arts mansion constructed for industrialist William Starr Miller in 1914. Inside, your footfalls echo through the cool marble lobby as you make your way to two floors of German and Austrian holdings, which include an impressive collection of Gustav Klimt paintings, Midcentury Modern furniture and couture frocks.

Once you’ve taken it all in, head downstairs to Cafe Sabarsky, where Old New York meets Old Vienna. Chef Kurt Gutenbrunner specializes in hearty German and Austrian comfort food, and you opt for the goulash and bratwurst, which you nibble on at a wrought iron table while reading The New York Times and sipping coffee from a silver service.

Next, take a leisurely 20-minute stroll down Fifth Avenue toward the most famous shopping area in the world. Your eyes bounce from Bergdorf Goodman’s avant-garde window displays to the bu ery so leather bags fresh from Milan on display at Barneys to the vivid scarves at Hermès to the pearl-clad women walking tiny dogs. As you make your way south, the socialites are replaced by hustling businessmen. In front of you looms Grand Central Terminal (5). It’s one of the best examples of Beaux-Arts architecture in the country, but beyond that it has that quintessential combination of peerless grandeur and controlled chaos that defines much of Manha an. With a sequence of balletic steps, you cut through the mob of commuters rushing to their trains, and you head upstairs to the Campbell Apartment, the restored office and salon of 1920s businessman John W. Campbell. Si ing at the bar sipping your Flapper’s Delight champagne cocktail, you gaze out the window while businessmen sip scotch around you, happy to be away from the madding crowd.

OCTOBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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SURF & TURF From far left, herbroasted beef rib eye and short rib rรถsti at Per Se; the lounge at The Maritime Hotel; Marble Lane

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM โ ข OCTOBER 2011

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THREE PERFECT DAYS NEW YORK CITY

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

THE INSIDE SCOOP FROM THOSE IN THE KNOW ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER JAMES FIELD

Susanne Carter

Daniel Holzman

Sarina Cass

CONCIERGE OF THE RITZ-CARLTON NEW YORK, CENTRAL PARK

CO-OWNER OF THE MEATBALL SHOP, LOWER EAST SIDE

PHOTOGRAPHER

“The Cloisters, a medieval monastery and museum, is definitely worth the trip to northern Manhattan. The building was reconstructed out of architectural elements that date back to the 12th century, and the gardens are treasures unto themselves.”

“Lately, I’ve been obsessed with Queens. If I have an afternoon to spare, I’ll make my way to The Noguchi Museum in Long Island City. I pack a picnic lunch to enjoy by the river in the nearby Socrates Sculpture Park.”

Time for dinner. You had the foresight to make a reservation at Per Se (6), Thomas Keller’s New York outpost on Columbus Circle, back by Central Park. You eat your way through nine decadent courses, including “Oysters and Pearls”—butterpoached oysters, osetra caviar and sabayon sauce—over three-plus wine-rich hours.

A er a long day of wandering through the city, it’s the perfect way to unwind.

DAY TWO | Today, you’re headed downtown—where the cool index is a little higher. First things first: Take the A train to 14th Street. You’re having breakfast a couple of blocks west, near the Hudson River, at Pastis (1). This French bistro–inspired hotspot was the first upscale restaurant in the Meatpacking District. The wideopen airiness of the space, accented by subway tile walls and pressed-tin ceilings, is a draw for the hip set. You load up on the English breakfast: eggs, thick strips of bacon, sausage, beans, mushrooms and roasted tomatoes. Just outside the door is the High Line (2), a former elevated railroad

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reinvented as greenspace. Climb the stairs and spend a few minutes walking among the wildflowers, appreciating the ingenuity it took to transform something so raw into something so beautiful.

Next, take your time wandering the streets of Greenwich Village, lost in the charm of brownstones and coffee shops.

Once a bohemian stronghold, these peaceful, shady lanes today play host to wealthy professionals and professors, with a few celebrities mixed in, living in happy semianonymity. At Fi h Avenue and West 4th Street, you reach Washington Square Park (3), where students, kids, buskers and street performers mill around the oftphotographed fountain and old-timers play chess. A er dropping $5 in a particularly talented jazz trumpeter’s hat, you head southeast to the Lower East Side for lunch.

Like pizza and bagels, burgers are a point of great contention among New Yorkers.

This is a city where two restaurants make burgers that cost more than $100, and people will line up around the block for the perfect kobe slider. Newcomer Bento

“There are moments when I still learn new things about this city, like that I can ride my bike 20 miles to Rockaway Beach. What a remarkable thing: to see the sand, ocean and open sky and know that this is part of my New York City, too.”

Burger (4) has made its mark with a postapocalyptic Tokyo roadhouse theme and quirky offerings like a Korean bulgogi pork burger. You se le on the Thai chicken burger with spicy papaya relish. It’s unconventional and surprisingly delicious.

Running with the cultural mash-up theme, you head a few blocks south to the Tenement Museum (5). This former tenement building was restored to show how European immigrants in the second half of the 19th century and early 20th century lived. The museum collected oral histories of people who lived in this very dwelling when the Lower East Side was teeming with hardworking newcomers from Germany, Ireland, Italy and Poland, and the tour shows visitors how the apartments evolved over the decades, as the city began requiring such luxuries as windows, indoor plumbing and electricity.

You check in at your second hotel: Thompson LES (6), where you’re welcomed by polished black floors and low-slung, modern furniture. The large rainfall showerhead is just what you need. After all,

OCTOBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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UPPER CRUSTS A brief history of New York pizza LOMBARDI’S PIZZA: The first pizzeria in the U.S., and a Little Italy landmark since 1905, when Gennaro Lombardi started selling tomato pies wrapped in paper in his grocery store. They still turn out thin-crust pies baked in a coal-fired brick oven. No slices.

TOTONNO’S PIZZERIA NAPOLITANO: “Totonno” Pero worked at Lombardi’s, but once the subway made it out to Coney Island, so went Totonno, who opened this spot in 1924. Get there early, because the shop closes when that day’s fresh dough runs out. No slices.

JOHN’S PIZZERIA: John Sasso opened his West Village restaurant in 1929. His crispy crusts and low prices got him through the Depression, and the shop is still going strong. No slices.

PATSY’S PIZZERIA: Patsy Lancieri opened his pizzeria in 1933 in East Harlem, where he had an interesting new idea: selling slices. His thin, chewy pizzas have since become favorites of everyone from Joe DiMaggio to Francis Ford Coppola.

DI FARA PIZZA: Opened in Brooklyn’s Midwood neighborhood in 1964, Di Fara’s pizza is still hand-slung by owner Dom DeMarco and sold by the slice.

GRIMALDI’S: VALERIE WALBAUER

GRIMALDI’S: This Brooklyn eatery (below) next to the East River is easily spotted by the line stretching around the corner for the homemade mozzarella. It was started by Patsy Grimaldi, who grew up in the kitchen of Patsy’s Pizzeria. Even so, no slices.

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DOWNTOWN DIGS A room at the Thompson LES

02/09/2011 12:50

ON THE WATERFRONT Taylor Bay scallop ceviche and Maine lobster with butter-poached tail and claws at the River Café in Brooklyn

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OCTOBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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THREE PERFECT DAYS

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DAY TWO (1) Pastis 9 9th Ave.; Tel: 212-929-4844 (2) High Line (3) Washington Square Park (4) Bento Burger 101 E. 2nd St.; Tel: 212-673-8908 (5) Tenement Museum 108 Orchard St.; Tel: 212-982-8420 (6) Thompson LES 190 Allen St.; Tel: 212-460-5300 (7) The River Café 1 Water St., Brooklyn; Tel: 718-522-5200

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DAY THREE | Today is a little more laid-back. You start off in nearby Chinatown, which, well, actually is a bit hectic: Stores selling everything from diamonds to fake designer handbags to fish heads line narrow streets, and residents haggle with shop owners on the sidewalk. Underneath it all, you catch a faint garlicky aroma. You follow it and take a seat at Dim Sum Go Go (1), where the minimal red-and-white décor is a stark contrast to the flurry of activity outside. You nibble on succulent duck dumplings and turnip cakes served in bamboo steamer baskets.

A er a post-brunch stroll through the labyrinthine Chinatown

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you’ve got a journey ahead of you, over the Brooklyn Bridge.

2 1 The 128-year-old structure affords great views of the Manha an and Brooklyn skylines, with parks stretching along 3 the river and towering condos and warehouses-turned-artistHo ust on studios welcoming you to Hudson St. River Brooklyn’s waterfront.

Ca You step off and wend na lS t. your way to the cobblestoned Fulton Ferry Landing. Nestled there is the River Café (7), which offers the best views of the city’s skyline, bar none.

Manha an looks a li le more subdued from sea level, its lights twinkling in the dusk.

You order the foie gras and Maine lobster, saving room for the signature dessert: a handmade chocolate bridge atop a rich hazelnut terrine served with Tahitian vanilla ice cream. A er you finish, stopping short of licking the plate, a doorman in a tux summons a yellow cab to whisk you back to Manha an.

Broadway

NEW YORK CITY

streets, you walk north and check into the Maritime Hotel (2), a historic building in its own right in Chelsea. It was built as the shining, silvery headquarters of the National Maritime Union and has a lot of nautical touches, such as metallic porthole-shaped windows. A nap calls, but having caught the history bug over the previous two days, you decide to take a pleasant walk along 12th Street, heading east, to visit the Strand Book Store (3). Famous for its 18 miles of books, the Strand opened in 1927 as one of 48 bookstores on what was known as Book Row. Today, it’s the only one le , and its unending sprawl of books and flannel-clad intellectuals endear it to locals. You pick up a copy of E.B. White’s slender classic Here Is New York and take it to a bench in nearby Union Square (4) to relax and read for a while.

You get back to your room at the Maritime just in time to

ON THE RISE Touch the sky at New York’s Skyscraper Museum It might be a cliché that one can spot visitors to New York City because they’re the only ones walking around looking up, but that doesn’t stop it from being true. The Skyscraper Museum, located in the same building as The Ritz-Carlton New York, Battery Park, spares the necks of visitors and architecturally inclined locals alike with a comprehensive overview of towering Manhattan buildings past and present, as well as others around the world.

Learn about the architecture of, and engineering behind, monoliths such as the Burj Dubai, the fast-rising 1 World Trade Center and many others at this sleek gallery.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • OCTOBER 2011

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THREE PERFECT DAYS NEW YORK CITY

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DAY THREE (1) Dim Sum Go Go 5 E. Broadway; Tel: 212-732-0796 (2) Maritime Hotel 363 W. 16th St.; Tel: 212-242-4300 (3) The Strand Bookstore 828 Broadway; Tel: 212-473-1452 (4) Union Square 14th St., between Union Sq. West and Park Ave. (5) Marble Lane 355 W. 16th St.; Tel: 212-229-2336

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To her mild shame, New York–based writer LAYLA SCHLACK has never been to the top of the Statue of Liberty.

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watch the sun set over the Hudson River, and then head for Marble Lane (5), a trendy, newish steakhouse. You walk past overstuffed metallic chairs in the lobby and take a seat under the hand-blown glass bubbles hanging from the ceiling. As you dig into your prime American kobe steak, you reflect on how funny it is that last year this now well-established restaurant wasn’t even here. Not long ago, in fact, this whole neighborhood was devoted to butchering and packaging meat. It’s always changing, this city, and the ceaseless flow of new people, new buildings and new ideas are what make it such a breathlessly exhilarating place. Calling for another glass of wine, you can’t wait to see what will happen next.

Broadway

TOWN AND GOWN Inside the Neue Galerie

OCTOBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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13/09/2011 10:43

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Hot on the Trail With summer officially over and the mercury falling, it’s time to start thinking about the slopes.

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WHETHER YOU’RE bounding through knee-deep powder, carving up some hard-packed snow, or even stepping onto a board or a pair of skis for the very first time, skiing is the ultimate bonding experience for family and friends. People of all ages and skill levels can be on the same mountain at the same time, enjoying the outdoors.

Here at Hemispheres, we believe this ski season is going to be the greatest ever. Resorts are at the back end of tens of billions of dollars of new spending on base lodges, gondolas, high-speed quads, advanced snowmaking technology and terrain parks, as well as après amenities like top-notch spas, restaurants and shopping, to make your skiing, snowboarding and family vacation experience second to none.

January is Learn to Ski and Snowboard Month, with resorts across the country offering great incentives to get you on the slopes, and United offers regular service to the very best of them. So let us help you start planning. Flip through this section to get a preview of what you’ll find out there.

Happy skiing!

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Breckenridge, Colorado A Real Mountain Town (No Additives or Preservatives) ON THE SLOPES, you’ll hit four peaks’ worth of world-class skiing and snowboarding, not to mention the highest chairli in North America. Beyond the runs? Signature winter parties, indie shopping and dining, an award-winning arts district and locally made libations await. A er all, Breckenridge delivers on diversity. Founded more than 150 years ago by prospectors in search of gold (and they found it), Breckenridge still a racts travelers in search of adventure. Start yours at GoBreck.com, call 800-GoBreck.

Beaver Run Resort Breck for a Buck!

CELEBRATE the Breckenridge Ski Resort’s 50th anniversary season with Beaver Run Resort’s special offer, Breck for a Buck! Our ski-in/ski-out location provides convenient access to the Beaver Run SuperChair on Peak 9 and world-class snow sports, plus puts you within walking distance of everything in Breckenridge. Lodging options range from four-bedroom, fully furnished condominiums to hotel style accommodations.

Onsite is Spencer’s Restaurant, best known for certified Angus beef and the “All-You-Can-Eat Prime Rib.” Base 9 Bar provides an elegant, contemporary se ing for cocktails. Participate in the live après ski shows at the Coppertop Bar and Café, and don’t forget the Starbucks coffee, sandwiches, pizza, groceries and gi s at the Skywalk Market.

Additional amenities include the Spa at Beaver Run, concierge and business services, two heated pools, seven hot tubs, Beaver Run Children’s Center, game room, complimentary town shu le and more.

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Whether you are seeking the ultimate ski getaway with family and friends or a group mountain retreat, Beaver Run Resort is your ski destination.

800-525-2253 BeaverRun.com

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Mammoth Lakes, CA Welcome to Our World MAMMOTH LAKES is your home base for Mammoth Mountain, June Mountain, 100 miles of snowmobiling trails, 150 miles of cross-country skiing and snowshoeing trails, and your newest winter tradition. From families to extreme athletes, from budget to four-star, Mammoth Lakes has something for just about everyone!

TRULY A ‘SKI TOWN’. You stay in Mammoth Lakes, and you ski and snowboard in Mammoth Lakes. No commute required! Walk, bus or take the gondola to Mammoth Mountain. With 3,500 acres, 28 li s, 150 trails —li s were transporting very happy visitors until July 4th for the last two years!

Twenty minutes north of Mammoth Lakes is June Mountain. This family-friendly resort encompasses 500 acres and has a nationally ranked terrain park and halfpipe. Sierra Mountain Center is located at its base and offers backcountry ski tours and ice climbing instruction.

LOOKING FOR UNIQUE? Take a snowcat to happy hour and enjoy overlooking Mammoth Lakes’ signature skyline– the Minarets. Or ride on a dog sled through the Inyo National Forest. Like to snowshoe or cross-country ski…by moonlight? Enjoy a brilliant moonlight tour that ends with dessert beside a cozy fireplace. Or arrive to a winemaker’s dinner…by gondola.

WIN A TRIP FOR 2!

PRIZE PACKAGE INCLUDES: • 4-night stay at the Westin Monache Resort, Mammoth.

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• Free equipment rentals from Black Tie Ski Rentals which fits rentals in your room.

Order a FREE vacation planner or enter to win trip at www.VisitMammoth.com/trip or by calling 1-888-GO-MAMMOTH (1-888-466-2666)

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Ski Apache One of the Southwest’s Best-Kept Secrets PULL OUT THE WINTER WARES and get ready to kick off the 2011-2012 ski season with the country’s southernmost continually operated ski slopes at Ski Apache, part of Inn of the Mountain Gods Resort & Casino in Mescalero, N.M., near Ruidoso, an area known for its wide array of outdoor offerings including both top-notch skiing and boarding. Ski Apache, now in its 50th season, offers the best warm-weather powder skiing in the world, serviced by 11 li s and New Mexico’s only four-person gondola. And, a new benefit for resort guests this year will be the addition of the Flaik™ GPS tracking device.

Beginning Thanksgiving Day, the mountain is open seven days per week from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Li tickets are $54 for adults, $47 for seniors (60 years and older), $43 for military personnel, $45 for teens (13-17 years) and $34 for children under 13. Group ticket discounts are also available in addition to individual ski and snowboard equipment rentals, $20 for adults and $12 for children.

For more details on Ski Apache visit www.skiapache.com or the Inn at www.InnOfTheMountainGods.com.

Call 888-262-0478.

The Park Hya Beaver Creek Resort and Spa THE PARK HYATT Beaver Creek Resort and Spa is one of the world’s most elegant true ski-in/ski-out resorts, located in the heart of the village, adjacent to the Children’s Ski School and ice rink. A gondola is steps from the resort’s signature ski valet. The property’s connected guest rooms, newly renovated suites, Allegria Spa, and Camp Hya ensure a family friendly vacation. Whether you choose a tastefully appointed guest room or a suite, each is designed with luxurious comfort in mind. Pillowtop ma resses, down comforters, and marble baths await. The 30,000-plus-square-foot Allegria Spa sets the standard for spas in the Rocky Mountains. Natural light throughout combines with a fresh and sophisticated design inspired by our local environment, projecting a feeling of restfulness and harmony. The “Aqua Sanitas” water sanctuary on the ground floor offers mineral thermaes, rain showers, steam rooms and quiet rooms. Enjoy a unique slopeside dining experience in 8100 Mountainside Bar & Grill, a live-action bar and grill specializing in local, natural and organic dishes featuring Colorado’s best microbrews, wines and spirits. Come enjoy all of the pampering comforts and amenities of Park Hya Beaver Creek Resort and Spa.

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Inquire about our early booking savings with our

“RECEIVE A COMPLIMENTARY 4TH NIGHT” SKI SEASON OFFER* Under specials and promotions use Special Offer Code HEMW to book your stay. *Subject to availability and restrictions apply.

Offer must be booked by 11/30/2011 to receive a fourth night complimentary.

Call 970.949.1234 or visit www.parkhyattbeavercreek.com

13/09/2011 16:25

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Crested Bu e Colorado’s Last Great Ski Town NESTLED IN THE HEART of the Rocky Mountains, Crested Bu e is “Colorado’s Last Great Ski Town.” With vibrant Victorian storefronts and expressive local characters, this small historic town remains true to its heritage and radiates an unparalleled welcoming spirit that celebrates a simpler life and time. It’s a place commi ed to preserving the pristine se ing and mountain lifestyle. Thanks to a widely diverse landscape, outdoor enthusiasts of all levels will find a new challenge with each visit. From legendary skiing and snowboarding, to a smile-inducing Snowcat Driving Experience, to family-friendly options, like our new Zip Line Tour and base area Adventure Park, Crested Bu e is one of Colorado’s best-kept secrets.

The mountain offers thrills for every level and all ages.

From abundant wide open green and blue groomed trails to more advanced long cruisers and the famous extreme limits of the North Face and Headwall, Crested Bu e Mountain Resort was created for exploration. The adventure continues off the slopes with some of the most diverse and distinctive bars, restaurants, shopping and nightlife found in any ski town. For families and friends, Crested Bu e is a place to reconnect and find new ways to explore and discover the mountain surroundings together, while enjoying a vacation experience that is authentic and awe-inspiring.

A er 50 years of skiing at Crested Bu e Mountain Resort, there is a lot to celebrate, beginning with an opening day birthday party and continuing with other iconic events, such as the annual Alley Loop Nordic Race, the Extreme Freeskiing Championships, 7 Hours of the Banana, Big Air on Elk and our FestEvol spring celebration.

BOOK EARLY AND SAVE Plan your Crested Butte vacation by November 1 and Save 20% on all Crested Butte Mountain Resort lodging properties.

Call 800.643.9516 or visit www.skicb.com for more information.

Some restrictions apply.

800.643.9516 skicb.com

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Telluride Unmatched in North America STASHED AMONGST the highest concentration of 14,000 foot peaks in North America, Colorado’s San Juan Mountains boast some of ski country’s most incredible terrain, and Telluride is its mecca. Telluride’s stunning scenery is undeniably some of the most beautiful in the Rockies, and its blend of historic buildings, local watering holes, world-class hotels, restaurants, shops and spas makes a trip here a must.

Telluride has recently added the spectacular Revelation Bowl and Palmyra Peak, and the resort’s terrain naturally shi s from beginner to expert. The north face and east ridge of the mountain provide challenges for the experts.

The middle of the mountain offers plenty of cruisers and corduroy for intermediates, and the west side offers gentle runs where beginners can test their legs while enjoying the endless scenery of the San Juans.

No ma er what your level or preference, Telluride’s famed ski & snowboard school is a sure way to get the most out of your day on the mountain, whether you’re looking to improve or just want to find the secret stashes.

Historic downtown Telluride and the European Mountain Village effortlessly mingle urban sophistication, historic charm and mountain spirit. The 50 varied restaurants and bars offer a cuisine culture to rival New York or Los Angeles, including signature Allred’s at the top of the Gondola, and North America’s highest wine bar, Alpino Vino, atop the mountain.

Telluride’s unique free Gondola creates a ski-in/ski-out community like no other. Nearly all lodging is within walking distance of the slopes, and there is no need to drive once you’ve arrived.

Ge ing to Telluride is as easy as ge ing around, as the Telluride and Montrose regional airports are conveniently served by six commercial carriers with non-stop flights available from eight major U.S. cities.

With the scenery, terrain, historic town and modern village, Telluride is truly Unmatched in North America.

For the best stay & ski packages, please call 800-778-8581 or visit www.TellurideSkiResort.com.

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13/09/2011 16:46

Photographer: Frank Shine | Skier: Jeff King

Portillo, the perfect ‘summer’ ski holiday

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© 2011 United Air Lines, Inc. All rights reserved.

Runway or fairway... we’re there.

Proud to be the Official Airline of the PGA TOUR®.

We’re proud to fly the PGA players from tournament to tournament. With over 370 destinations throughout the world, no matter where they tee it up, we’re touching down. For reservations and information, go to united.com.

Includes destinations served by United Air Lines, Inc., Continental Airlines, Inc., United Express, Continental Express and Continental Connection.

No.00000 Runway of Fairway.indd 1

08/09/2011 15:41

Entertainment & Information ENTERTAINMENT 110 DIRECTV速 112 Film & Television 116 Audio Programming 118 Crossword 120 Sudoku INFORMATION 123 Route Maps 128 Customs & Immigration 129 Our Fleet 130 Terminal Diagrams 134 Safety & Travel Assistance 136 MileagePlus 137 Alliances & Partnerships 144 Food & Beverages

?

p109_HEM1011_E&ICover.indd 109

08/09/2011 10:25

ENTERTAINMENT

DIRECTV®

DIRECTV® IS OUR LATEST UPGRADE, allowing you to select from

more than 100 channels of live television along with blockbuster Hollywood movies, sitcoms and dramas. Purchase DIRECTV® and stay entertained for your entire flight.

Use your Continental Airlines Chase MasterCard and receive a special $2 discount.

Available on select 737 aircraft

What you want to watch

OVER 100 CHANNELS You can get more than 100 of your favorite TV channels. Movies, sports, family programming—we have the best in entertainment.

MOVIES Choose from four Hollywood movies: Green Lantern, Inkheart, The Prestige and Rumor Has It. Or, browse for movies on live TV.

AND MORE! Never miss a play from inside the 20 on DIRECTV’s Red Zone Channel®, which brings you the final yards of every scoring drive on one dedicated channel.

Your favorite TV channels INCLUDING: NETWORKS

NEWS

SPORTS

ENTERTAINMENT

FAMILY

HOW TO USE 1. Swipe your credit card* to begin.

2. Select your channel or movie and start watching.

3. Listen using your own headset or feel free to use the complimentary headset provided on board. Your purchase is good for the entire flight, even when the aircraft door is open before takeoff, and you can turn the TV on and off throughout your flight. *MasterCard, Visa, American Express or Discover accepted.

TV and movies are complimentary in First Class.

A&E ABC FAMILY ANIMAL BABY BBCA BET BIG TEN BIO BLOOMBERG BOOM BRAVO CARTOON CBS CENTRIC CHILLER CLOO CMT CNBC CNN COMEDY COOK C-SPAN C-SPAN2 CW DISCOVERY DISNEY

265 311 282 293 264 329 610 266 353 298 237 296 390 330 257 308 327 355 202 249 232 350 351 394 278 290

DISNEY XD DIY E! ESPN ESPN CLASSIC ESPN2 ESPNEWS ESPNU FOOD FOX FOX BUSINESS FOX MOVIE FOX NEWS FOX SOCCER FUEL FX GALA GOL TV GOLF GOSPEL GREEN GSN HALLMARK HGTV HIST INTL HISTORY

292 230 236 206 614 209 207 208 231 398 359 258 360 619 618 248 404 426 218 338 286 233 312 229 271 269

HLN HUB INVESTIGATION LEARNING LIFETIME LIFETIME MOVIE LINK MILITARY MLB Network MOUNTAIN MSNBC MTV MTV2 NAT GEO NBC NICK NICK JR NICK TOON NRB OUTDOOR OVATION OXYGEN QVC REDZONE SCIENCE SOAP

204 294 285 280 252 253 375 287 213 616 356 331 333 276 392 299 301 302 378 606 274 251 275 573 284 262

SPEED SPIKE SPORTSMAN STYLE SYFY TBS TEEN NICK TENNIS TNT TRAVEL TRUTV TURNER MOVIE TV GUIDE TV LAND TVG HORSE TWC UNI USA VERSUS VH1 VH1 CLASSIC WGN WORD

607 241 605 235 242 247 303 217 245 277 246 256 273 304 602 362 402 242 603 335 337 307 373

SATELLITE COVERAGE AREA Since the programming is live from DIRECTV®, a flight may take you out of the satellite coverage area. If this happens, prerecorded TV shows and movies will still be available.

Exact channel numbers and programming schedules are subject to change. DIRECTV® service is not available on flights outside the continental United States.

The signal may be lost in turbulence and/or if banking of the aircraft is required. DIRECTV® and Continental Airlines are not responsible for interruptions of service that are beyond our control including, without limitation, acts of nature, power failure, or any other cause. ©2010 DIRECTV® Inc. DIRECTV® and the Cyclone Design logo are registered trademarks of DIRECTV® Inc. All other trademarks and service marks are the property of their respective owners.

110

OCTOBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

p110_HEM1011_DIRECTV.indd 110

08/09/2011 10:27

© 2011 United Air Lines, Inc. All rights reserved.

Explore space.

Enjoy more personal space in Economy Plus®.

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No.00000 Explore Space.indd 1

08/09/2011 15:39

ENTERTAINMENT

FILMS ARE SHOWN on flights of three hours

or longer. Movies available on most 737, 747, 757, 767, 777, A319 and A320 aircraft flights.

Schedules and selections are subject to change.

En el canal 10 encontrará películas y programas de televisión disponibles en Español.

Film & Television ENJOY THESE MOVIES AND SHOWS ON THE MAIN SCREEN

Films DOMESTIC AND INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS WILL SHOW THE FOLLOWING MOVIES EASTBOUND

WESTBOUND

OCT 1-15

Mr. Popper’s Penguins

Captain America: The First Avenger [T]

OCT 16-31

Zookeeper [T]

Cars 2

OCT 1-15

Zookeeper [T]

Cars 2

OCT 16-31

Mr. Popper’s Penguins

Captain America: The First Avenger [T]

NORTH AMERICA

HAWAII

SOUTHBOUND

LATIN AMERICA & CARIBBEAN

NORTHBOUND

OCT 1-15

Captain America: The First Avenger [T]

Mr. Popper’s Penguins

OCT 16-31

Cars 2

Zookeeper [T]

• Flights between Chicago or Denver and Hawaii will show both films.

• Select films are shown on flights within Micronesia and on intra-Asia flights on 737 aircraft.

Television SELECT FLIGHTS MAY FEATURE THE FOLLOWING TELEVISION PROGRAMMING 30 Rock [T] Rules of Engagement [T] Expedition Wild: Yellowstone Winter [T]

The Big Bang Theory [T] The Office [T] Suits [T]

The Middle Cash Cab Everybody Loves Raymond

The Simpsons [T] Monk Hawaii Five-0 [T]

Rules of Engagement [T] Friday Night Lights [T] The Middle

Parks and Recreation [T] 30 Rock [T] The Big Bang Theory [T]

[T] = Adult Themes

You may purchase a headset onboard Continental-operated flights for $3 and keep it for future travel. Applicable on all video-equipped flights of at least 1½ hours’ duration within the continental United States, Hawaii, Alaska and Canada, as well as to/from select destinations in Mexico, the Caribbean and the mid-Pacific.

112

Headsets are complimentary on all aircraft equipped with DIRECTV®.

OCTOBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

p112-115_HEM1011_FilmTV.indd 112

08/09/2011 10:30

MOST FILMS HAVE BEEN EDITED for

airline use. However, customer discretion is still advised. Content guidelines are provided as a courtesy to our customers in choosing whether to view a film.

CUSTOMERS ARE WELCOME to view their own video entertainment aboard a United aircraft as long as they are able to show the programming has an MPAA rating of “R” or less.

Mr. Popper’s Penguins Jim Carrey is Mr. Popper, a driven businessman who is clueless when it comes to the important things in life—until he inherits six penguins. The little guys turn his apartment into a winter wonderland.

FEATURING Jim Carrey, Carla Gugino, Angela Lansbury DIRECTED BY Mark Waters

Zookeeper [T] 1 hr.

37 min.

Captain America: The First Avenger [T] A brave soldier named Steve Rogers volunteers to undergo a series of experiments for a U.S. Army “super soldier” program. The military transforms him into a human weapon, and he soon finds himself up against the Nazis.

FEATURING Chris Evans, Tommy Lee Jones, Hugo Weaving DIRECTED BY Joe Johnston

GET IN TOUCH What do you think of our programming? We’re open to suggestions. Please send them to play@united.com or visit united.com/play.

Franklin Park Zoo caretaker Griffin Keyes is more comfortable with the lions than with the ladies. When he decides the only way to get a girl is to find a more glamorous job, the animals are not pleased.

FEATURING Kevin James, Rosario Dawson, Leslie Bibb DIRECTED BY Frank Coraci

1 hr.

42 min.

Cars 2 2 hr.

1 min.

Star racecar Lightning McQueen and the irrepressible tow truck Mater take their friendship to exciting new places, along with a cast that includes secret agents, menacing villains and international racing competitors.

VOICES BY Owen Wilson, Larry the Cable Guy, John Turturro DIRECTED BY John Lasseter/Brad Lewis

1 hr.

46 min.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • OCTOBER 2011

p112-115_HEM1011_FilmTV.indd 113

113

08/09/2011 10:30

ENTERTAINMENT

Film & Television THE FOLLOWING FILMS ARE AVAILABLE ON INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS

INTERNATIONAL LANGUAGE TRACKS (G) Synchronisierte Versionen finden Sie auf Kanal 2 und 3 (wenn verfügbar).

(J) 日本語の吹き替えはチャンネル2番および３番でお聴き いただけます。（一部英語音声のみとなります。） (C) 如果可 用，在第2频道和第3频道将提供语言录音 (K) 채널 2,3에서 더빙버전이 제공됩니다

(K) Korean (G) German (C) Chinese (J) Japanese

B747 Mainscreen Programming FROM U.S. Captain America: The First Avenger [T] 2 hr. 1 min.

Cars 2 1 hr. 46 min.

U.K.

2 hrs.

2 hrs.

Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides [T] 2 hrs. 10 min.

2 hrs.

Captain America: The First Avenger (G) [T] 2 hr. 1 min.

Cars 2 (G) 1 hr. 46 min.

2 hrs.

Mr. Popper’s Penguins (G) 1 hr. 37 min.

Zookeeper (G) [T] 1 hr. 42 min.

2 hrs.

Kung Fu Panda 2 (G) 1 hr. 31 min.

Midnight in Paris (G) [T] 1 hr. 40 min.

2 hrs.

Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides [T] 2 hrs. 10 min.

Something Borrowed (G) [T] 1 hr. 52 min.

2 hrs.

Mr. Popper’s Penguins 1 hr. 37 min.

2 hrs.

AUSTRALIA

Mr. Popper’s Penguins 1 hr. 37 min.

Zookeeper [T] 1 hr. 42 min.

2 hrs.

Kung Fu Panda 2 1 hr. 31 min.

GERMANY

TO U.S.

Zookeeper [T] 1 hr. 42 min.

Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides [T]

Captain America: The First Avenger [T] 2 hr. 1 min.

Cars 2 1 hr. 46 min.

Kung Fu Panda 2 1 hr. 31 min.

2 hrs.

Midnight in Paris [T] 1 hr. 40 min.

2 hrs. 10 min.

2 hrs.

2 hrs.

Something Borrowed [T] 1 hr. 52 min.

2 hrs.

Mr. Popper’s Penguins (J) 1 hr. 37 min.

Zookeeper [T] (J, K) 1 hr. 42 min.

2 hrs.

JAPAN & SOUTH KOREA *JAPAN FLIGHTS ONLY

Captain America: The First Avenger (J, K) [T] 2 hr. 1 min.

Cars 2 (J, K) 1 hr. 46 min.

2 hrs.

Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides (J, K) [T] 2 hrs. 10 min.

2 hrs.

Something Borrowed (J, K) [T] 1 hr. 52 min.

Kung Fu Panda 2 (J, K) 1 hr. 31 min.

Midnight in Paris (J, K) [T] 1 hr. 40 min.

2 hrs.

2 hrs.*

2 hrs.

Mr. Popper’s Penguins (C) 1 hr. 37 min.

Zookeeper [T] (C) 1 hr. 42 min.

CHINA & HONG KONG

2 hrs.

Captain America: The First Avenger (C) [T] 2 hr. 1 min.

Cars 2 (C) 1 hr. 46 min.

2 hrs.

Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides (C) [T] 2 hrs. 10 min.

Something Borrowed (C) [T] 1 hr. 52 min.

2 hrs.

Kung Fu Panda 2 (C) 1 hr. 31 min.

Midnight in Paris (C) [T] 1 hr. 40 min.

2 hrs.

FROM JAPAN THAILAND & TAIWAN *THAILAND FLIGHTS ONLY

Water for Elephants (J, C) [T] 2 hrs.

Rio* (J, C) [T] 1 hr. 39 min.

2 hrs.

TO JAPAN Thor (J, C) [T] 1 hr. 59 min.

Arthur* (J, C) [T] 1 hr. 54 min.

2 hrs.

2 hrs. = Two-hour block of television [T] = Adult Themes

114

OCTOBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

p112-115_HEM1011_FilmTV.indd 114

08/09/2011 10:31

DIGITAL MEDIA LOADING occurs between

the 25th of one month and the 5th of the following month. As a result, please understand if your flight features a different lineup before or after the start of each month.

Kung Fu Panda 2 Po’s new life is threatened by the emergence of a formidable villain who plans to use a secret weapon to destroy kung fu.

VOICES BY Jack Black, Angelina Jolie, Gary Oldman DIRECTED BY Jennifer Yuh

Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides [T] 1 hr.

31 min.

Midnight in Paris [T] When a writer and his fiancée visit Paris, he is magically transported to the ’20s, where he meets the Lost Generation.

FEATURING Owen Wilson, Rachel McAdams DIRECTED BY Woody Allen

2 hrs.

10 min.

Something Borrowed [T] 1 hr.

40 min.

Water for Elephants [T] Jacob Jankowski, now 90, joined the circus as a young man.

There, he met Marlena and her twisted husband, August.

FEATURING Reese Witherspoon, Robert Pattinson DIRECTED BY Francis Lawrence

Captain Jack crosses paths with a woman from his past on her way to the Fountain of Youth, and ends up in trouble.

FEATURING Johnny Depp, Penelope Cruz, Geoffrey Rush DIRECTED BY Rob Marshall

After one drink too many at her 30th birthday party, Rachel ends up in bed with the fiancé of her catty best friend.

FEATURING Kate Hudson, Ginnifer Goodwin, John Krasinski DIRECTED BY Luke Greenfield

1 hr.

52 min.

Thor [T] 2 hrs.

Thor accidentally reignites an ancient war and is cast down to Earth and forced to live among humans as punishment.

FEATURING Chris Hemsworth, Natalie Portman DIRECTED BY Kenneth Branagh

1 hr.

59 min.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • OCTOBER 2011

p112-115_HEM1011_FilmTV.indd 115

115

08/09/2011 10:31

ENTERTAINMENT

Audio Programming Audio Mixes

116

Featuring songs by Roy Orbison, Cream, Fleetwood Mac and more

Featuring songs by Meat Loaf, Toto, Cheap Trick and more

Featuring songs by Duran Duran, Tiffany, Starship and more

Featuring songs by Brian Eno, Enya, Runestone and more

Featuring a chronology of Michael Jackson songs

Featuring compositions performed by orchestras from New York to Stuttgart

Featuring songs by Martina McBride, Trace Adkins, Toby Keith and more

Featuring Chinese popular music including cantopop and mandopop

Featuring songs by DJ Fresh, David Guetta, Duck Sauce and more

Featuring songs by Joss Stone, Snow Patrol, Josh Groban and more

Featuring songs by Ella Fitzgerald, Julie London, George Benson and more

Featuring songs by Exile, AKB48, Sukima Switch and more

Featuring songs by Johnny Pacheco, Sergio Mendes and more

Featuring songs by Paramore, Foo Fighters, Sublime With Rome and more

Featuring songs by Akon, Jordin Sparks, John Legend and more

Featuring songs by Elvis Presley, Bobby Darin, the Shirelles and more

Featuring songs by Miley Cyrus, Justin Bieber, Selena Gomez and more

Featuring songs by Adele, BeyoncĂŠ, Lady Gaga and more

Featuring songs by Femi Kuti, Annie Trousseau, Balkan Beat Box and more

OCTOBER 2011 â&#x20AC;˘ HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

p116-117_HEM1011_Audio.indd 116

08/09/2011 10:32

CHANNEL 9 Listen for your flight number to hear live communication between the flight deck and FAA air traffic control. This feature, unique to United, may not be available on all flights, including oceanic crossings with limited audio communication. Available at your captain’s discretion.

Audio Channels by Aircra CHANNEL

777*

SELECT A320

A319 & A320

747

737 & 757-300

757 & 767*

1

Movie (English)

Movie (English)

Movie (English)

Movie (English)

Movie (English)

Movie (English)

2

Today’s hits

Today’s hits

Today’s hits

Movie (Dubbed)

Today’s hits

Today’s hits

3

R&B

R&B

R&B

Movie (Dubbed)

R&B

R&B

4 5 6 7 8

Classical

’60s

Classical

Classical

Classical

Classical

Country

Country

Country

Country

Country

Country

’60s

Classical

—

’60s

’60s

’60s

’70s

’70s

—

’70s

’70s

’70s

’80s

’80s

—

’80s

’80s

’80s

9

From the flight deck

From the flight deck

From the flight deck

From the flight deck or R&B

—

From the flight deck or Modern rock

10

Movie (Dubbed)

Movie (Dubbed)

Movie (Dubbed)

Today’s hits

Movie (Dubbed)

Movie (Dubbed)

11

Modern rock

Modern rock

’60s

Teen pop

Modern rock

—

12

Latin

Latin

’70s

World

Latin or J-pop on Micronesia flights

—

13 14 15 16 17 18 19

Dance

Dance

’80s

J-pop

—

—

Ambient

Ambient

Modern rock

C-pop

—

—

Artist spotlight

Artist spotlight

Artist spotlight

—

—

—

Jazz

—

—

—

—

—

J-pop

—

—

—

—

—

Easy listening

—

—

—

—

—

Teen pop

—

—

—

—

—

*For aircraft with seatback entertainment, please refer to the guide for audio selections.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • OCTOBER 2011

p116-117_HEM1011_Audio.indd 117

117

08/09/2011 10:32

ENTERTAINMENT

ALL THEME CLUES ARE IN BOLD If you fill in the crossword please take the magazine with you so it’s replaced.

Answers found on page 67

Crossword EAT YOUR GREENS

BY GREG BRUCE

118

OCTOBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

1 5 9 13 17 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 28 30 31 32 34 37 42 46 47 48 49 50 53 56 58 59 61 63 64 66 67 68 70 71 74 77 79 83 84 86 89 90 92 94 96 97 98

Bishop of Rome Airport pickup Bundle Game on horseback Adhesive No longer in White House office Soon, to a bard English pennies Defeat Brother Short shot Fix your dog or cat Great on a hot dog, maybe? ___ profundo “Your majesty” Amazing adventure Moral depravity Intensify Small British boat Muslim holy man Sound Ginger ___ Bleed Sign of affection Fall guy A doctor’s client In times past Monty ___ Avid Hamster’s home Caesar salad main A chip, maybe Backpacker Open a bottle of beer Hobby shop buy Access the web Cook top Not fully shut Rocket ___ vera English exam finale, often Lighthouse Chinese zodiac sign Relief in the Tudor era Hair curler Sneaky little animal B&B Hello or goodbye, in Latin Like “The X-Files”

100 Big name in kids’ construction 101 Fishing or diving 103 Wildfowl 106 Slow-cook 107 Touch up 109 Quick note 111 Not a giver 114 Popeye’s fuel 118 Liveliness 121 Auspices 122 “Beg pardon...”

123 Grace word 125 Beauty parlor 127 Con 128 Achy 129 Disinclined 130 Annoying nighttime sound 131 Love ___ 132 Fake fight 133 Water whirl 134 Gush

DOWN 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 18 19 27 29 30 33 34 35 36

High spirits Airy Corn cake I beg your pardon Once around the track Any thing Restaurant handout Chances Hair dressing Key material An Ansel Adams photograph Forest denizen Yellow fruit Heavy load Gobs Not fooled by Elusive creature Pressure “___ Time transfigured me”: Yeats “Sesame Street” watcher Military wear Kind of panel Parish priest Adult insect Billiards bounce

38 39 40 41 43 44 45 51 52 54 55 57 60 62 65 66 67 69 70

Weighted baton Below soprano Animal with a mane Much ___ About Nothing Floorboard sound Fencing action “The door’s open!”

Gumption Harmony Lady’s escort “Dig in!”

Cupcake topper Leaves in the afternoon?

Come together Drill bit Balloon filler Mansion Dance step Send to the canvas

COEUR DE LION

72 73 74 75 76 78 80 81 82 84 85 86 87 88 91 93 95

Propeller, in a way Cultivate Speedy Home ___ Nary a soul Pickle container Knock down Feudal lord Burning Overhangs Underpaid workers’ factory Request Half a matched set Operatic solo Kind of beam Stan who created Spider-Man Losers

99 102 103 104 105 108 110 111 112 113 115 116 117 119 120 122 124 126

Catch, as in a net Prepare in advance Preliminary coat of paint Lady lobster Big ___ Conference Sydney ___ House Bungle, with “up” Beach bird Fever Smooch Ready and willing’s partner Blockhead Principal Icky stuff Days of ___ Stubborn one Hog heaven Mint

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p118-120_HEM1011_Puzzles.indd 118

08/09/2011 11:09

THE LEADERS IN CARPAL TUNNEL SYNDROME

TM

U.S and foreign patients travel to the world renowned Brown Hand Center across America, inventors of The Brown ProcedureÂŽ Endoscopic Carpal Tunnel Release and leaders in Hand/Upper extremity care.

TM

THE

OPEN CARPAL TUNNEL

BROWN PROCEDURE

First described in 1947

Outpatient, less than 5 minutes

NORMAL tissue layers are sliced through in order to divide the transverse carpal ligament

NO STITCHES and Little or NO PAIN Hand use the following day, unrestricted in 7 days

Stitches for closure of wound

Minimizes risk of permanent nerve damage

Often, a painful scar results that can be permanent Recovery can take 6 weeks to 6 months or NEVER Considered by many to be antiquated, The Brown Procedure has been reported to be â&#x20AC;&#x153;treatment of choiceâ&#x20AC;?

No iatrogenic nerve or artery injuries as reported in the prestigious Journal of Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery (beware of imitators of The Brown Procedure that do not have the same proven track record over nearly 20 years)

Since 1988, BROWN HAND CENTER has been the destination of choice for patients from around the world who expect world-class comfort and care.

BROWN HAND CENTER is where The Brown Procedure was developed and where so many published medical journal articles originated, answering questions others could only ask. BROWN HAND CENTER is the leader in carpal tunnel treatment, as well as all problems affecting the hand and upper extremity, such as arthritic joint problems, injuries and secondary reconstruction, replantation of amputated parts, and congenital birth deformities. When possible, the approach is minimally invasive to reduce patient pain, suffering and recovery time. The Brown Endoscopic Trigger Release (BETR) is another of the many innovations from Brown Hand Center used to treat a common problem, trigger finger. Similar to The Brown Procedure, The BETR utilizes two tiny skin openings to insert instrumentation (designed by Michael G. Brown, MD) to divide the A1 pulley, rather than cutting through normal tissue layers. This â&#x20AC;&#x153;minimally invasiveâ&#x20AC;? approach at BROWN HAND CENTER has allowed countless thousands of patients to return to normal activity in a relatively short period following an outpatient procedure. Many have returned home, thousands of miles away to other countries, the following day.

World-Class Comfort & Care At BROWN HAND CENTER, we maintain a philosophy of respect and kindness that guides everything we do. Often taken for granted, as we take our sight or hearing for granted, the hands are among the most complex parts of the body and loss of use is sorely missed and irreparable damage may be sustained if specialized care is not received. We want you to receive specialized care from the beginning, not just after a complication.

Brown Hand Center

BROWN HAND CENTER physicians, specialists in hand and upper extremity care, are available 24/7.

From children born with congenital birth deformities, sports injuries, to arthritis and other intrinsic diseases of the hand...Brown Hand Centerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hand and Microvascualr surgeons are LEADERS IN NOT ONLY HAND, BUT ALSO WRIST, ARM, ELBOW AND SHOULDER PROBLEMS. The emphasis is always on a minimally invasive approach, when possible, to minimize discomfort and recovery time.

BROWN HAND CENTERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S ideal is to make available to all the specialized care of a highly skilled and trained hand/microvascular surgeon and to help others understand this specialized field. BROWN HAND CENTERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S message is seen in television and magazine ads worldwide.

800.214.4263 (HAND) Nationwide Locations

Delivering leading edge care with kindness, courtesy and compassion.

Providing â&#x20AC;&#x153;service as it should be.â&#x20AC;? TM

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01/04/2011 16:50

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p118-120_HEM1011_Puzzles.indd 120

09/09/2011 14:23

Maybe it’s time to outsource… your dating life

Navigating today’s complex dating scene can be daunting, and busy professionals often wonder who to turn to for advice. We sat down with It’s Just Lunch dating expert PJ Osgood to discuss the difficulties of dating for singles on the go.

Here’s some of the savvy advice she gives to her clients.

Why is dating so challenging these days for career-focused singles?

Let’s face it—dating is challenging for everyone!

Throw a demanding professional or family life into the mix, and you can understand why someone hires IJL. Dating feels difficult because time is valuable, and it isn’t easy to efficiently manage a fruitful dating life. With our help, clients go out on dates with someone who already meets their essential requirements. That way, the only thing left to be determined is the chemistry.

What type of person uses It’s Just Lunch?

Clients come to me because the process of finding someone on their own can be overwhelming. Meeting people through family, friends, or online requires a lot of time and often doesn’t deliver results. Instead, they join IJL because they are ready to be proactive and want to take a professional approach to finding their compatible match.

So, that’s why they come to IJL? To meet their match?

“Great guys and women don’t circle around your block waiting for you to come out of your house.

You’ve got to market yourself.”

Absolutely! Our clients come to IJL because they have reached a point where they want to find someone special. They hire us as results-driven dating specialists. People hire professionals to handle so many aspects of their lives, so why not use a professional to help you find someone special? We are matchmaking professionals —this is what we do day in and day out. We take a personal approach and remain objective.

A successful love life for our clients is our goal.

What really differentiates IJL from the other dating options out there?

My clients look to me as their personal dating headhunter. At IJL, we meet with our clients face to face and identify the key characteristics they are looking for in a match. We learn what has and hasn’t worked for them in the past and put a positive plan in place. Then we introduce them to other like-minded singles in a casual, lowpressure first date setting where they can truly be themselves. Because in the end, it’s just lunch!

IT’S JUST LUNCH has professional dating specialists just like PJ all around the world.

Call us and discover how we can help you create a more rewarding dating life today.

Alabama • Arizona • Arkansas • California • Colorado • Connecticut • Delaware • Florida • Georgia • Idaho • Illinois • Indiana • Iowa • Kansas • Kentucky • Louisiana • Maine • Maryland • Massachusetts • Michigan • Minnesota • Mississippi • Missouri • Nebraska • Nevada • New Jersey • New Mexico • New York • North Carolina • Ohio • Oklahoma • Oregon • Pennsylvania • Rhode Island • South Carolina • Tennessee • Texas • Utah • Virginia • Washington • Washington DC • Wisconsin • Canada • Ireland • Australia • Thailand • Singapore

Real People. Real Dates.

No.230683_IJL.indd 1

Sara Darling

Betty Sinclair

Amy Brinkman

Visit ITSJUSTLUNCH.COM or call 1.800.858.6526

30/11/2010 14:56

light meets might.

Available at samsonite.com, Macy’s, macys.com, Bon-Ton, Carson Pirie Scott, Belk, Boscov’s, Bed Bath & Beyond, The Luggage Outlet, Luggage & More, Mori Luggage & Gifts, Premier Travelware, Argentina International, Luggage Gallery, Travel Plus, Altman Luggage, The Luggage Source, and other fine department stores and luggage specialists.

No.31407_Samsonite 1pp.indd 1

29/07/2011 09:05

8:00 pm 9:00 pm 10:00 pm

7:00 pm

12:00 MON.

11:00 pm

12:00 SUN.

1:00 am

2:00 am

3:00 am

5:00 am

6:00 am

7:00 am

8:00 am

9:00 am

11:00 am

10:00 am

12:00 pm

4:00 am

ARCTIC OCEAN

1:00 pm

ARCTIC OCEAN

MIDNIGHT GREENLAND ALASKA (U.S.)

United/Continental Seasonal Service United/Continental Future Service CITY United/Continental Hub (Red All Caps) Cities served Cities served by select airline partners Time zone boundary

INTERNATIONAL CITIES Route lines do not reflect actual flight path

United/United Express/ Continental/Continental Express/ Continental Connection Route

RUSSIA

Lulea Reykjavik

ICELAND

NORWAY

UNITED KINGDOM

Ulaanbataar

CANADA

Seattle Harbin

U.S.A.

Sapporo

Shenyang

JAPAN

N. KOREA

Beijing

Pyongyang

Dalian

Tianjin

Niigata

Sendai

SAN FRANCISCO

Komatsu Seoul S. KOREA TOKYO Pusan Fukuoka Osaka Nagoya Nanjing Cheju Okayama Hefei Nagasaki Shanghai Hiroshima Chengdu Wuhan Kumamoto Kochi Oita 6:00 Ningbo Kagoshima Hangzhou Chongqing Matsuyama Changsha Wenzhou Miyazaki Guiyang Fuzhou Guangzhou Okinawa BHUTAN Taipei Kunming Xiamen Guilin BANGLADESH Nanning Macau Shenzhen Ishigaki Hanoi BURMA Hong Kong TAIWAN Chiang Rai LAOS Haikou Chiang Mai Vientiane Zhengzhou

THAILAND

Khon Kaen

Saipan

Krabi Phuket Hat Yai Penang

PHILIPPINES

MARSHALL ISLANDS

Cebu

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)

Kwajalein

Yap Pohnpei

Kota Kinabalu

MALAYSIA

GUAM

Chuuk (Truk)

Palau

Bandar Seri Begawan

Kuala Lumpur

Majuro

I

N

D

O

N

Funchal

Bermuda

CANARY ISLANDS

Tenerife Las Palmas

Saltillo Monterrey Torreon Nassau Santo Domingo Durango MEXICO Tampico Los Cabos Aguadilla Aguascalientes Providenciales San Juan Queretaro Cozumel Puerto Mexico City St. Thomas Plata Veracruz Ciudad del Grand Cayman Puerto Vallarta St. Maarten Manzanillo Carmen Puebla Montego Port-auBelize Guadalajara Antigua Bay Punta Prince Cana Ponce Tuxtla Oaxaca Roatan Morelia Toluca Huatulco Gutiérrez San Pedro Sula Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo Tegucigalpa Villahermosa Aruba Bonaire Acapulco Guatemala City NIC. Panama Port-of-Spain San Salvador COSTACity Caracas Managua RICA Maracaibo Valencia PANAMA Liberia Cartagena VENEZUELA

Medellin

Bucaramanga

MAURITANIA Sal CAPE VERDE ISLANDS

S

I

GUINEA BISSAU

GAMBIA

Bissau GUINEA

SIERRA LEONE

Monrovia LIBERIA

FRENCH GUIANA

ATLANTIC OCEAN

ECUADOR

Guayaquil

Manaus

Fortaleza

BRAZIL

PERU

4:00

6:00 pm

GEORGIATbilisi

TURKEY

Izmir

NIGER

1:00 pm BURKINA Ouagadougou FASO BENIN TOGO

ERITREA

CHAD

Khartoum

Apia

Lima

Pago Pago

WESTERN SAMOA

Kano

Port Vila

FIJI

Cairns

FRENCH POLYNESIA

Nadi

Papeete

Niue

1:00 Norfolk Island

Gold Coast

9:30 pm

to San Francisco

Hermosillo

Adelaide

Sydney

Guaymas

Tasman Sea

Melbourne

Nelson

NEW ZEALAND Queenstown

Route lines reflect flights operated by United Airlines, Continental Airlines, Inc. and/or their regional partners. For accurate flight schedules, please see www.united.com or www.continental.com. © 2011 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

p123-128_HEM1011_Routemaps.indd 129

9:00 pm

CAMEROON CENTRAL AFRICAN REPUBLIC Douala

Accra Lome Abidjan Malabo Sao Tome SAO TOME & PRINCIPE

Sanaa

11:00 pm

to New York (Newark)

RWANDA

TANZANIA

SRI LANKA Mahé

to Washington (Dulles)

Rio de Janeiro

Windhoek

Iguassu Falls

ARGENTINA

Saltillo

Bermuda

Tampico Aguascalientes

Santiago Samana Santo Domingo Aguadilla San Juan St. Thomas

Christchurch Dunedin

COLOMBIA

1:00 am

2:00 am

3:00 am

4:00 am

5:00 am

Montevideo Buenos Aires

VENEZUELA

6:00 am

7:00 am

8:00 am

9:00 am

6:00 pm

5:00 pm

Oslo SWEDEN

FINLAND

Helsinki

Stockholm

Manzini SCOTLAND

ESTONIA

Stavanger MADAGASCAR Aberdeen

Maputo

Aalborg DENMARK

Aarhus Billund Esbjerg

LATVIA

Riga

Copenhagen Palanga LITHUANIA Malmo Newcastle Bloemfontein RUSSIA Vilnius Gdansk Kaliningrad Groningen Maseru Bremen Hamburg Leeds POLAND SOUTH AFRICA BELARUS LESOTHO East London Dublin WALES Manchester Berlin ENGLAND NETH. Hannover Cape Town Shannon Birmingham Amsterdam Warsaw Port Muenster Elizabeth Cork GERMANY Leipzig BELGIUM London Dresden Bristol London Brussels Prague (Gatwick) Katowice Cologne UKRAINE Frankfurt CZECH Luxembourg Nuremberg REPUBLIC SLOVAKIA Stuttgart Munich Paris Salzburg Basel Linz Vienna Budapest FRANCE AUSTRIA Friedrichshafen Klagenfurt Cluj-Napoca SWITZ. Ljubljana Lyon Verona Venice Zagreb Bucharest TriesteBOS. ROMANIA Turin Milan Bologna HERZ. Belgrade Genoa Florence Toulouse SERBIA Sarajevo La Coruna BULGARIA Marseille Nice Pisa Ancona KOS. Bilbao Sofia Skopje Istanbul Rome ALBANIA MAC. SPAIN Porto Naples ITALY Thessaloniki Madrid PORTUGAL Valencia Alexandroupolis Palma GREECE Ibiza La Romana Palermo Alicante Lisbon Mediterranean Sea Izmir Sevilla Mikonos Granada Faro Rhodes MALTA Luga Heraklion

Porto Alegre

Santiago

Nassau

NORWAY

Bergen

MOZAMBIQUE

Glasgow

Johannesburg

Curitiba Florianopolis

URUGUAY

Monterrey

MALAWI

ZIMBABWE

BOTSWANA

4:00 pm

COMOROS

Atlantic Lilongwe Harare Ocean

Gaborone

INDIAN OCEAN

SEYCHELLES

Dar Es Salaam

3:00 pm

ZAMBIA

NAMIBIA

Coimbatore

MALDIVES

BURUNDI

2:00 pm

Bangalore Chennai (Madras)

Kozhikode Cochin Trivandrum

Nairobi

Bujumbura

Lusaka

Havana Providenciales Queretaro Cozumel Puerto Mexico City Plata Veracruz Ciudad del Grand Cayman Puerto Vallarta St. Maarten Carmen Manzanillo Montego Puebla Port-auBelize Bay Guadalajara Antigua Kingston Prince Punta Cana St. Kitts Pointe a Pitre Roatan Oaxaca Morelia Toluca Huatulco Martinique San Pedro Sula St. Lucia Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo Tegucigalpa Villahermosa San Andres Barbados Aruba Island Bonaire Acapulco Grenada Guatemala City NIC. Tobago San Salvador COSTA Caracas Port-of-Spain Managua RICA Panama City PACIFIC OCEAN Liberia PANAMA

Palmerstown North Wellington Blenheim

12:00 MIDNIGHT

PARAGUAY

to to New York New York (La Guardia) (Newark)

Mangalore

KENYA

ANGOLA

Belo Horizonte

Goa

Arabian Sea

Colombo

Kigali

Kinshasa

Agarta

SOMALIA

UGANDA

Libreville GABON CONGO

Pune

ETHIOPIA

Juba

DEM. REP. CONGO

Yaounde

EQUATORIAL GUINEA

Cordoba

Los Cabos

World time zones shown in Standard Time.

10:00 pm

Chihuahua

Durango MEXICO

Rotorua Napier-Hastings

to Cleveland

HOUSTON (INTERCONTINENTAL)

Torreon

Auckland Hamilton

to Denver

to Los Angeles

Perth

8:00 pm

Campo Grande

Noumea

NEW CALEDONIA Brisbane

7:00 pm

CHILE

Rarotonga

Nuku’ Alofa

AUSTRALIA

6:00 pm

Santa Cruz

Mumbai

4:00 pm

Addis Ababa

10:00 am

Brasilia Goiania

OMAN

NIGERIA

Recife

BOLIVIA

Alma-Ata Bishkek

UZBEKISTAN

DJIBOUTI

Abuja Cotonou Port Harcourt GHANA Lagos

Salvador Cuzco

Baku

YEMEN

Asmara

SUDAN

Lubumbashi

Coral Sea

C

Krasnodar

Istanbul

GREECE

Luanda

Darwin

KAZAKHSTAN

Donetzk

SAUDI ARABIA

MALI

Denpasar Bali

INDIAN OCEAN

Ekaterinburg

5:00 Tashkent KYRGYZSTAN Batumi ARMENIA Ankara AZER. TURKMENISTAN Yerevan Dushanbe TAJIKISTAN Antalya Athens Ashgabat Larnaca Erbil Tunis Malta Ercan Rhodes SYRIA AFGHAN. Islamabad CYPRUS Mashad Beirut Tehran IRAQ TUNISIA Mediterranean Sea LEBANON Jammu Peshawar Damascus Baghdad Tripoli Tel Aviv IRAN 4:30 Lahore Amritsar Amman Guwaha Benghazi Alexandria ISRAEL Chandigarh 3:30 Kathmandu JORDAN Kuwait 5:00 Cairo Delhi NEPAL PAKISTAN Dammam BHUTA 2:00 pm QATAR Jaipur LIBYA Lucknow Bahrain Luxor BANG Dubai Karachi Patna Riyadh Doha Indore 5:30 Abu Dhabi Dhaka U. A. E. EGYPT INDIA Muscat Ahmedabad Raipur Jeddah Kolkata Nagpur

Pointe Noire

PAPUA NEW GUINEA

Jakarta

SENEGAL

Conakry Freetown

Quito

PACIFIC OCEAN

A

Dakar Banjul

COLOMBIA

E

ALGERIA

WESTERN SAHARA

SURINAME GUYANA

Cali

Singapore

Oran

MOROCCO

HOUSTON (INTERCONTINENTAL)

Kosrae

BRUNEI

Nador

Moscow

Black Sea

Skopje Tirana

ALB.

Algiers

12:00 Casablanca

Chihuahua

Honolulu

Rome

Madrid

Lisbon

Horta

HER. SERB. Sofia KOS. MONT.

5:00 pm

4:00

Manchester

Barcelona

PORTUGAL

NEW YORK (NEWARK)

WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES)

DENVER

Orange County

Manila

CAMBODIA VIETNAM Phnom Penh

New York (La Guardia)

CLEVELAND

St. Petersburg

Tallinn

Edinburgh

SPAIN

LOS ANGELES

9:00 pm

South China Sea

Luzon Island

Bangkok

5:30

Qingdao

International Date Line

Baotou

CHICAGO (O’HARE)

RUSSIA

Helsinki

n Sea pia as

Changchun

8:00 pm

FINLAND

Riga LAT. Copenhagen LITH. Malmo Vilnius Belfast Hamburg Gdansk Minsk Dublin Amsterdam BELARUS Berlin Shannon GERMANY Warsaw Brussels POLAND Birmingham Kiev London Krakow Frankfurt Stuttgart UKRAINE Kosice Munich Paris MOLDOVA Chisinau AUSTRIA SWITZ. ROMANIA FRANCE Odessa Geneva Milan Belgrade Bucharest BOS.-

Khabarovsk

MONGOLIA

Oulu

2:00 pm

Stockholm

Glasgow

2:00

Turku

Oslo

Hudson Bay

9:30

Yangon

Umea Trondheim Ostersund Kristiansund Vaasa Molde SWEDEN

Anchorage

8:00 pm

CHINA

Alta

Tromso

Route Maps

3:00 pm

2:00 pm

10:00 am

11:00 am

12:00 NOON

1:00 pm

Edinburgh

SWAZILAND NORTHERN IRELAND UNITED Belfast DurbanKINGDOM IRELAND

1011

08/09/2011 10:34

Cullaton Lake Ennadai Lake Prince Rupert Sand Spit

INFORMATION

Route Maps

Smithers Terrace Fort St. John

Route lines do not reflect actual flight path

Prince George

United/United Express/ Continental/Continental Express/ Continental Connection Route

Grande Prairie

CA NA DA

to Anchorage

Pacific Time Zone B R I T I S H 4:00

COLUMBIA

Mountain Time Zone 5:00

Kamloops

Vancouver

Nanaimo

Victoria

Goose Bay

U.S. I-94 Arrival/Departure Record

Edmonton

Central Time Zone 6:00

A L B E R TA

Kelowna Penticton

Customs & Immigration

United/Continental Seasonal Service United/Continental Future Service CITY United/Continental Hub (Red All Caps) Cities served Cities served by select airline partners Time zone boundary

NORTH AMERICAN CITIES Fort McMurray

Calgary

Newfoundland Time Zone 8:30

Wabush

MANITOBA

Gander

Deer Lake NEWFOUNDLAND & LABRADOR

S A S K AT C H E WA N

Saskatoon Castlegar Cranbrook Lethbridge Medicine Hat Spokane Kalispell

Seattle

WA S H I N GT O N

Pasco

Missoula

Eugene

Helena North Bend

Redmond OREGON

Medford Crescent City Eureka

I DA H O

Bozeman

Boise

Redding

Minot MINNE SOTA

Dickinson Bismarck Fargo

Timmins Rouyn-Noranda Sudbury

Houghton

Duluth

Pierre Huron

Wausau Minneapolis Eau Claire Green Bay

MAINE

Bangor Bar Harbor

Plattsburgh Burlington Kingston

Traverse City Toronto

N E W YO R K

Syracuse

Sioux Falls

Casper Chadron W YO M I N G

Killeen

LOUISIANA

College Station Alexandria

Austin

Honolulu Kapalua

Kahului

Del Rio

Maui

HOUSTON San Antonio (INTERCONTINENTAL) Victoria

Pacific Ocean

0 0

50 50

100

100 150

Kona

Beaumont/ Pt. Arthur

Hilo

150 Miles 100

0

200

300

400 Miles

McAllen

Tallahassee

N OVA SCOTIA

Harlingen Brownsville

U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) offers the Global Entry™ program in order to expedite the processing of pre-approved, low-risk international travelers entering the U.S. Upon returning from international travel, Global Entry™enrolled travelers may bypass the regular passport control line and proceed to the Global Entry™ kiosk. Global Entry™ program participants scan their machine-readable passport, U.S. permanent resident card or U.S. visa on the kiosk, place their fingertips on the scanner for fingerprint verification and make a customs declaration. The kiosk issues the traveler a transaction receipt and directs the traveler to baggage claim and exit.

100

200

300

400

500

The following travelers are eligible for enrollment in Global Entry™: • Citizens and residents of the U.S. • Citizens of Mexico who hold a U.S. visa • Citizens of the Netherlands who are enrolled in Privium • NEXUS members • SENTRI members Application for enrollment in the Global Entry™ program is available at the Global On-Line Enrollment System (GOES): https://goes-app.cbp.dhs.gov. It costs only US$100, which covers enrollment in the program for a five-year period. The government will review the applicant’s information while a background investigation is conducted. Applicants undergo an interview with CBP officers at an Enrollment Center in the U.S. before final approval is granted.

BERMUDA

Global Entry™ is available in the following cities: Atlanta (ATL), Boston (BOS), Chicago (ORD-O’Hare), Dallas (DFW), Detroit (DTW), Ft. Lauderdale (FLL), Honolulu (HNL), Houston (IAH-Intercontinental), Las Vegas (LAS), Los Angeles (LAX), Miami (MIA), New York (JFK), Newark (EWR-Liberty), Orlando (MCO-International and SFB-Sanford), Ottawa (YOW), Philadelphia (PHL), Seattle (SEA), San Francisco (SFO), San Juan (SJU), Toronto (YYZ), Washington, DC (IAD-Dulles) and Vancouver (YVR).

OnePass Eligible Service

Boston

F L O R I DA

Orlando Melbourne

Ft. Myers

Treasure Cay Marsh Harbour Ft. Lauderdale/Hollywood North Eleuthera Governors Harbour Miami Bimini Nassau Andros Town Cat Island

MEXICO

Freeport

BAHAMAS

Key West 0

CBP Form I-94 (05/08) OMB No. 1651-0111

Arrival Record Admission Number

000000000 00

1. Family Name 3. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY) 5. Sex (Male or Female)

6. Passport Issue Date (DD/MM/YY)

7. Passport Expiration Date (DD/MM/YY)

8. Passport Number

9. Airline and Flight Number

10. Country Where You Live

11. Country Where You Boarded

12. City Where Visa Was Issued

13. Date Issued (DD/MM/YY)

14. Address While in the United States (Number and Street) 15. City and State 16. Telephone Number in the U.S. Where You Can be Reached 17. Email Address

CBP Form I-94 (05/08)

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection

OMB No. 1651-0111

Departure Record Admission Number

000000000 00

Expedited Passport Control and Customs Clearance in the U.S.—Global Entry™

Manchester

Gainesville Daytona

Sarasota/Bradenton West Palm Beach

Gulf Of Mexico

5 U.S.C. § 552a(e)(3) Privacy Act Notice: Information collected on this form is required by Title 8 of the U.S. Code, including the INA (8 U.S.C. 1103, 1187), and 8 CFR 235.1, 264, and 1235.1. The purposes for this collection are to give the terms of admission and document the arrival and departure of nonimmigrant aliens to the U.S. The information solicited on this form may be made available to other government agencies for law enforcement purposes or to assist DHS in determining your admissibility. All nonimmigrant aliens seeking admission to the U.S., unless otherwise exempted, must provide this information. Failure to provide this information may deny you entry to the United States and result in your removal.

All passengers (or one passenger per family) are required to complete a Customs Declaration before arrival in the U.S. Write in English, in capital letters. Be sure to include the street name and number, city and state of your address in the U.S. If you are transiting through the U.S., you may write TRANSIT and your final destination country. Please read both sides of the declaration and place your signature at the bottom of the form.

Portland

N.H.

Jacksonville

Tampa/St. Petersburg Corpus Christi

Item 9 - If you are entering the United States by land, enter LAND in this space. If you are entering the United States by ship, enter SEA in this space.

18. Family Name 19. First (Given) Name

20. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY)

21. Country of Citizenship

CBP Form I-94 (05/08) See Other Side

STAPLE HERE

Left, U.S. Customs Declaration; right, U.S. I-94 form, which all U.S. visa holders must complete.

Countries participating in the U.S. Visa Waiver Program (VWP): Andorra Australia Austria Belgium Brunei Czech Republic Denmark Estonia Finland France Germany Greece Hungary

Iceland Ireland Italy Japan Latvia Liechtenstein Lithuania Luxembourg Malta Monaco Netherlands New Zealand Norway

Portugal San Marino Singapore Slovakia Slovenia South Korea Spain Sweden Switzerland United Kingdom (British citizen or with unrestricted right of abode)

Codeshare / OnePass Service

Pensacola

Ft. Walton Gulfport/ Beach New Biloxi Orleans

Laredo Route lines reflect flights operated by United Airlines, Continental Airlines, Inc. and/or their regional partners. For accurate flight schedules, please see www.united.com or www.continental.com. © 2011 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

200 Kilometers

Lake Charles Lafayette

Atlantic Time Zone 8:00

Train Routes

Baton Rouge

When all items are completed, present this form to the CBP Officer.

V T.

MISSISSIPPI

Mobile

This form is in two parts. Please complete both the Arrival Record (Items 1 through 17) and the Departure Record (Items 18 through 21).

U.S. Customs Declaration

Halifax

Albany Midland/ Boston Rochester Ithaca Muskegon Grand Saginaw Sarnia Buffalo/ Hartford/M A S S . Hyannis Sacramento Reno/Tahoe Rock Springs Milwaukee Rapids Niagara Falls Binghamton SpringfieldR.I. Flint I OWA Nantucket C.T. Providence Newburgh London JamestownElmira Scottsbluff Oakland Lansing SAN FRANCISCO Madison Salt Lake City Wilkes Barre/ Alliance New Haven Modesto White Detroit Windsor Laramie South Erie Bradford Scranton San Jose Long Island/Islip Vernal Hayden/ Plains NEBRASKA Cedar Mammoth Lakes Cheyenne Bend/Elkhart/ CLEVELAND New York (La Guardia) FranklinClearfieldWilliamsport Rapids/ Mishawaka Omaha Steamboat Fresno N.J. North Platte U TA H (J.F. Kennedy) Des PA Iowa City State Akron/Canton COLORADO Monterey Allentown NEW YORK (NEWARK) Grand Springs Moines Dubois College Visalia OHIO Peoria Junction Vail/Eagle DENVER Ft. Kearney Pittsburgh CA L I F O R N I A Moline Harrisburg Philadelphia Lincoln Moab Wayne Columbus Johnstown Aspen McCook Baltimore Altoona ILLINOIS Inyokern I N D I A NA Morgantown Colorado Springs St. George MARYLAND D E L .

San Luis Obispo Montrose Dayton Gunnison/ Bakersfield WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES) Clarksburg Springfield Crested Indianapolis Hays Las Vegas Telluride Parkersburg Shenandoah Salisbury Butte Santa Maria Page/ Cincinnati WV Valley (Reagan National) Cortez Pueblo Durango K A N S A S Kansas City Lake Powell St. Louis Santa Barbara Charlottesville Burbank Huntington Charleston Louisville Alamosa Garden City Lewisburg Richmond Farmington Great Bend LOS ANGELES Long Beach Lexington Beckley Lynchburg Ontario Dodge City Norfolk/Virginia Beach Flagstaff Wichita Orange County Roanoke V I R G I N I A KENTUCKY Newport News/Williamsburg Liberal A R I Z O NA Springfield Carlsbad Tri-Cities Regional Prescott Greensboro/High Point/Winston-Salem Palm Springs Raleigh/Durham NORTH M I S S O U R I Paducah Amarillo Show Low Tulsa San Diego Knoxville CA R O L I NA Albuquerque Nashville Imperial Northwest Greenville New Bern Phoenix/Scottsdale Oklahoma City Charlotte Arkansas Asheville Fayetteville/Ft. Bragg TENNESSEE Yuma ARKANSAS Greenville/ Jacksonville OKLAHOMA Spartanburg Chattanooga Memphis Lubbock Little NEW MEXICO Wilmington Tucson Rock Huntsville/ Columbia Florence Myrtle Beach Decatur SOUTH Atlanta CA R O L I NA Hobbs Charleston Dallas/ Augusta Birmingham El Paso Fort Worth Dallas (Love) Hilton Head Island Monroe Midland/ ATLANTIC Montgomery GEORGIA Odessa Jackson Shreveport TEXAS Savannah A L A BA M A Waco OCEAN Tyler Riverton

N E VA DA

Type or print legibly with pen in ALL CAPITAL LETTERS. Use English. Do not write on the back of this form.

2. First (Given) Name

Ottawa

M I C H I GA N

Appleton/ Fox Cities

Saint John

North Bay

Sault Ste. Marie

Moncton Fredericton

City

Mont Tremblant

WISCONSIN

SOUTH Gillette Rapid City DA KO TA

U N I T E D S TAT E S

Presque Isle

O N TA R I O

Sheridan

Worland Jackson Hole

Chico

Thunder Bay

NORTH DA KO TA

Billings

Cody/ Yellowstone Idaho Falls

Klamath Falls

Eastern Time Zone 7:00

OMB No. 1651-0111

Welcome to the United States I-94 Arrival/Departure Record Instructions This form must be completed by all persons except U.S. Citizens, returning resident aliens, aliens with immigrant visas, and Canadian Citizens visiting or in transit.

4. Country of Citizenship

P R I N C E E DWAR D Sydney NEW ISLAND B RU N SW I C K Charlottetown

Saguenay

Williston

Lewistown M O N TA NA

Îles de la Madeliene

Bathurst

Glasgow Great Falls

Gulf Of St. Lawrence

Mont-Joli

Regina Winnipeg

Portland

PACIFIC OCEAN

Gaspe Baie-Comeau

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection

All travelers who hold a U.S. visa are required to complete an I-94 Arrival/Departure Record (one per person, including infants). Write in English, in capital letters. Be sure to include the street name and number, city and state of your address in the U.S. If you are transiting through the U.S., you may write TRANSIT and your final destination country. The Customs and Border Protection officer will place the I-94 Departure Record in your passport after inspection. Make sure you return the Departure Record to the airline representative before boarding your return flight.

Newark (Liberty)

New Haven Stamford New York (Penn Station)

Philadelphia Wilmington Washington, DC

Australia Brunei Hong Kong (SAR; with HKG identity card)

Japan

For detailed information, go to the U.S. Customs and Border Protection site, globalentry.gov.

ATLANTIC OCEAN

George Town

600 Kilometers

Countries participating in the Guam-CNMI Visa Waiver Program (VWP):

1011

128

Malaysia Nauru New Zealand Papua New Guinea Singapore South Korea

Taiwan (direct flight to Guam with passport and national ID card)

United Kingdom (including BNO)

OCTOBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

CUBA

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Our Fleet

787 UPDATE United has always been at the forefront of aviation developments; the first airline to operate both the 767 and 777, United will also be the first North American airline to put into service the revolutionary Boeing 787 Dreamliner.

The details are in the cabin: Lower pressurization and higher humidity levels will significantly reduce the effects of jet lag. Larger windows with electromagnetic shades will enable you to dim the window and still enjoy the passing terrain. Ambient LED lighting, reduced cabin noise and a more spacious cabin design will provide an unrivaled level of comfort.

Fleet Facts AIRCRAFT

CRUISE SPEED CAPACITY

PROPULSION

WINGSPAN

747-400

777-200/ -200ER

767-200ER/ -300ER/ -400ER

757-200/ -300

737-500/ -700/-800/ -900/-900ER

A319/A320

567 mph

550 mph

540 mph

540 mph

530 mph

530 mph

374 passengers (12/52/310)

Between 253 and 348 passengers (10/45/198) (12/49/197) (8/40/221) (50/226) (36/312)

Between 174 and 244 passengers (25/149) (6/26/151) (35/200) (34/210)

Between 110 and 216 passengers (12/26/72) (16/159) (24/158) (24/192)

Between 114 and 173 passengers (8/106) (12/112) (16/144) (20/153)

Between 120 and 144 passengers (8/112) (12/126) (12/132)

Four Pratt & Whitney PW4062 turbofan engines, rated up to 63,300 pounds thrust each

Two General Electric GE90 or two Pratt & Whitney PW4077/4090 turbofan engines, rated up to 94,000 pounds thrust each

Two General Electric CF680C2B or Pratt & Whitney PW4060 turbofan engines, rated up to 63,300 pounds thrust each

Two Rolls-Royce RB211-535 or two Pratt & Whitney PW2040 turbofan engines, rated up to 43,700 pounds thrust each

Two General Electric CFM56 turbofan engines, rated up to 26,400 pounds thrust each

Two IAE V2500-A5 turbofan engines, rated up to 27,000 pounds thrust each

211 ft., 5 in.

199 ft., 11 in.

Up to 170 ft., 4 in.

134 ft., 9 in.

Up to 117 ft., 5 in.

111 ft., 11 in.

PRODUCT INVESTMENT United recently announced an investment of more than $500 million to enhance our customers’ flying experience. We plan to roll out more flat-bed seats in our United First and United Business cabins, further solidifying our position as the North American carrier with the most flat-bed seats. In addition, we will be adding Wi-Fi to more than 200 Boeing 737 and 757 aircraft as well as expanding Economy Plus across the entire mainline fleet.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • OCTOBER 2011

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INFORMATION

Terminal Diagrams

IAH

HOUSTON GEORGE BUSH INTERCONTINENTAL AIRPORT TERMINAL C Continental United United Express

TERMINAL A TERMINAL B Continental Express United Express B86

B85A B85 B84A-S

B87 B88

C19

C17

C20

C16

C21

C15

C22

C14

TERMINAL D Continental Lufthansa Singapore Airlines

USO

2 D1

0

1

D1

D8

D9

D1

A D6

D7

D5

D6

D4 D3

4

5

D4

A

C23 C2

A2 A1

B86A

6

Bus Station (A2)

A15 B79A B80 B79 A11 B77A A9 B81A B81 B77 A8 B76A A7 B83A B83 B76 Station

North Concourse

C2

A14 A12 A10

C18

C2

Continental Connection Air Canada

D1 D2

(North Concourse)

C27

TerminaLink

Connects Terminals A, B, C, D, & E via train

Station

Station International Arrivals

A17

(Lower Level)

South Concourse

C42

C35

C41

C36

C40

E8

E5

E7

4

2 E1

E1

E1

E23

E15

E9

E4

TERMINAL E Continental

E16

E22

E17

E21

E18

E6

C39

E20 E19

NEW YORK/NEWARK LIBERTY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

TERMINAL C

B3

B2

B1

TERMINAL A Continental Express United United Express Air Canada US Airways

TERMINAL C Continental Continental International Arrivals Continental Connection

P4

Newark Liberty International Airport Station — Connection with Amtrak and New Jersey Transit

6X

A/2 /26 26 A2 25/25A

127 128 126 139 125 124 138 123 137 122 136 121 5 120 13 134 3 13 32 1 1 13 0 13

98 99 97 96 94 95 92 91 80

115 114 112 110 108 104 102

113 111 109 107 105 103 101

81 83 85 87 88

90 70

72 71

75 82 84 73

86

74

(Upper Level)

17 16

4A /2 24 A 23/23 20/20A

TERMINAL B Continental International Arrivals EVA Air LOT Polish Airlines Lufthansa Scandinavian Airlines Singapore Airlines SWISS TAP Portugal AirTrain Virgin Atlantic

28/28A 27/ 27A

A3

130

1

0

E2 E3

C37

EWR

E1

E1

4

E24

5 C4

C4

C34

C4

3

3

C29 C3

B67 B66 B65 B64 B63A B63

2

B60 B61 B62 B62A

C3

A20 TERMINAL A (South Concourse) US Airways

B68 B75 B69 B74 B70 B73 B71 B72A B71A B72

0

A19

1

A24

C3

A18

A25

C3

A26

(Lower Level)

A1

P1, P2, P3

(Lower Level)

Continental Express flights may arrive/depart at Terminal C.

OCTOBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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CHICAGO/O’HARE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

Concourse E Concourse C

TE R M I N A L 3

Concourse L

Concourse C C28-C39

C40-C50 B5 9 B6 B6 1 3 B6 5 B6 7 B6 9 B7 1 B7 3 B7 5

Train

Concourse A

B8 1 B8 3 B8 5 B8 7 B8 9 B9 1

B7

9

B77

B93 B95

B8 B80 B82 B84 B86 B98 B90 B92 4

Concourse K

Continental United United Express US Airways

B3 9 B4 1 B4 3 B4 5 B4 7 B4 9 B5 1 B5 3 B5 5 B5 7

Concourse H

Concourse B

B3 8 B4 2 B4 4 B4 6 B4 8 B5 0 B5 2 B5 4 B5 6 B5 8 B6 0

E10

C2 C1 C4 C6 C3 C8 C5 E3 C10 C7 E2A C12 C9 E2 C16 C11 E1A C18 B2 B3B4 C15 E1 C18A B1 C17 B5 C20 B6 C22 C19 B7 C24 C21 B8 C26 (Lower Level) C23 C28 C25 B9 C30 B10 C27 C32 TE R M I N A L 2 B11 C29C31 United Express B12 B13 Air Canada TE R M I N A L 1 B14 US Airways B15 Continental B16 (Gates B1-B4) B17 United B18 B19 United Express B20 Elevated Airport ANA B22 B21 Transport System

Concourse G

B2 8 B3 0 B3 2 B3 4 B3 6

F14 F12 F11 F10 F9 F8 F7 F6 F5 F4 F3 F2 F1

DENVER INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

B1 5 B1 7 B1 9 B2 1 B2 3 B2 5 B2 7 B2 9 B3 1 B3 3 B3 5 B3 7

Concourse F

DEN

B1 6 B1 8 B2 0 B2 2 B2 4 B2 6

ORD

Air Canada Lufthansa

A24-A39

A40-A53 A58-A68

Pedestrian Bridge

Lufthansa

Concourse B

TERMINAL WEST

Concourse M

TERMINAL EAST

TE R M I N A L 5 International

United, ANA, Asiana Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa, Scandinavian Airlines, SWISS, Turkish Airlines

SFO

IAD

SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

WASHINGTON/DULLES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

TE R M I N A L 2

Continental United United Express C2-4

78

TE R M I N A L 3

79

77

80 82

88

C1-3

71

Shuttle

C10-14

C18-26 C28-30

D2-8

D10-16

D18-26

D28-32

TE R M I N A L 1 US Airways

A2

C5-7 A4

A6

A3

A5

C9-11

C17-27

D1-7

A14

A22

A15

A21

A25

D9-11

D15-21 D23-29

A32

B38-B48

72

84 86

C6-8

Continental United United Express

Train

68 76

Continental United United Express

Concourse D

Concourse C

Gates 40-48 Gates 60-67

Gates 20-36

81 83 75

A1

(Lower Level)

85 Secure 90 87 Walkway G92 89 G94 G96 G98 G91 G100 G102 G93 I N T E R N AT I O N A L TE R M I N A L G101 G95 G97 United, Air Canada, Air China, G99

Concourse A Continental Express United Express Copa Airlines South African Airways Virgin Atlantic Gates A1-A12

B35-B51 Shuttle Bus

Z Gates US Airways 1-4

B63-B79

Concourse B ANA Austrian Airlines Lufthansa Scandinavian Airlines Turkish Airlines

MAIN TERMINAL

Air New Zealand, ANA, Asiana Airlines, EVA Air, Lufthansa, Singapore Airlines, SWISS

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • OCTOBER 2011

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Terminal Diagrams CONT’D

LAX

CLE

LOS ANGELES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

CLEVELAND HOPKINS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Concourse C

TE R M I N A L 3

TE R M I N A L 2 Air Canada Air China Air New Zealand Virgin Atlantic

TE R M I N A L 1 US Airways

C17

C18

12

C19

8 4B

Continental Continental Express United United Express Air Canada

C16 C11

C14

C20

C9

C7

C2

C5

C3

(Lower Level)

C21 C22

TO M B R A D L E Y I N T E R N A T I O N A L TE R M I N A L ANA, Asiana Airlines, EVA Air, Lufthansa, Singapore Airlines, SWISS, THAI, Turkish Airlines

C24

60 62 64 66 68A

67B 69A

70B

73

72

75A 74 76

75B 77

38

45

35 36

31

33

Third Floor 27

26

D7 D9 D8

D28

Concourse D Continental Express Continental Connection

D21 D17

US Airways and some Continental international flights arrive at Concourse A.

GUM

GUAM INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

22

34

21

32

Security Checkpoint

North Wing

South Wing TERMINAL 1 Continental United Air Canada Air China 51 ANA 52 53 Asiana Airlines 54 Austrian Airlines EGYPTAIR 55 Lufthansa 56 Scandinavian Airlines Singapore Airlines 57 SWISS THAI 58 Turkish Airlines

17

18

16

Café

15 11

12

14

Satellite 1

MAIN TERMINAL Continental

Food Court

11

B46

Gates D1-D54

B47 B48 B42

B45 B44 B43 B1-B41

LHR

B27 B28 B23

6

7

8

9

10

19 21

12

14

16

18

Pier B

LONDON/HEATHROW INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT TERMINAL 1 United (ORD, IAD, SFO, LAX) Aegean Airlines Air New Zealand Asiana Airlines Austrian Airlines bmi Brussels Airlines Croatia Airlines LOT Polish Airlines Lufthansa South African Airways SWISS TAM TAP Portugal US Airways

Lufthansa Tower Lounge (Level 5)

B26

Heathrow Express

B25 B24 B22

B10-B20

er

er

Pi

Pi C

Gates A1-A65

Pedestrian Tunnel

Continental United Aegean Airlines Adria Airways Air Canada Air China ANA Asiana Airlines

132

17

20 5

A

Pier D Gates C1-C9

15

(Lower Level)

Sky Line Train

TE R M I N A L 2

13

4

Air New Zealand flights arrive/depart at Terminal 2.

FRA FRANKFURT INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

Pier E

D10

D3 D2

23

47

Gates E1-E26

(Lower Level) Underground Tunnel

C27

Satellite 2

24

25

C4

D25

TE R M I N A L 7 TE R M I N A L 8 United United United Express United Express

TE R M I N A L 6 Continental United Copa Airlines

Fourth Floor 37

41

C25

D12 D11 D14

TOKYO/NARITA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

43 42 44

46

80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88

70A

71B

68B

69B

NRT

C6

D4 D6 D5 71A

67A

TE R M I N A L 5

C8

C26

61 63 65

TE R M I N A L 4

C10 C29

C23

TE R M I N A L 1

Austrian Airlines Croatia Airlines EGYPTAIR LOT Polish Airlines Lufthansa Scandinavian Airlines Singapore Airlines

South African Airways Spanair SWISS TAM TAP Portugal THAI Turkish Airlines US Airways

TERMINAL 5

TERMINAL 3 Air Canada Air China ANA Blue1 EGYPTAIR Scandinavian Airlines Singapore Airlines THAI Turkish Airlines Virgin Atlantic

Transfer Shuttle

TERMINAL 4 Continental (EWR, IAH) Gates 1-25

Secureside and non-secureside buses serve all terminals

OCTOBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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No.00000 Star Alliance 1pp.indd 1

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INFORMATION

MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT Whether your next flight is on United or one of the Star Alliance partners around the world, you can use the terminal diagrams on pages 130-132 to plan your connection.

In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters and interterminal transportation.

Safety & Travel Assistance SAFETY INFORMATION NEED TO KNOW Customer safety is our primary concern. Our flight attendants are trained thoroughly in all safety procedures. But as expert as they are, in the event of an emergency, they need help from you, the customer.

You should be aware of the following.

EXIT Location of the nearest emergency exit

The correct procedure for exiting the cabin in an emergency

Where your oxygen mask will appear, how to start the oxygen flow and how to use the mask

Please look carefully at the safety information card located in the seat pocket in front of you

Liquid and solid explosives

Flammable gases and compressed gas



NEVER PERMITTED The Federal Aviation Administration and the Transportation Security Administration prohibit hazardous materials in either checked or carry-on baggage.

Substantial fines can be imposed for violations.

Radioactive and magnetic materials, corrosive and oxidizing agents

Poisons

Smoking is not permitted. Federal law imposes fines of $1,000 for smoking and up to $2,200 for any attempt to disable an aircraft’s smoke detectors. We prohibit the use of electronic simulated smoking devices (cigarettes, pipes, cigars, etc.) on our flights.

It is a violation of federal regulations to drink alcoholic beverages during a flight unless they are served by our personnel.

Also, airlines are forbidden to serve alcoholic beverages to anyone who appears to be intoxicated.

Travel assistance for delayed or canceled flights At United and Continental, our priority is safety and keeping an on-time schedule. On occasion, canceling or delaying a flight is the only option to assure we maintain the highest safety standards.

Flight canceled? We automatically confirm you on the next United or Continental flight with available seats. Kiosks located in the concourse will assist you with information and a boarding pass—they will also help you stand by for an earlier United or Continental flight if one is scheduled. If you want to travel standby and aren’t boarded, we will transfer your name to the next United or Continental flight to your destination until you are onboard.

provide you with a hotel and meal voucher. For uncontrollable events— such as weather—we may be able to help you locate a local hotel at a discounted rate; however, United and Continental do not cover hotel or meals expenses in this event. If we cannot retrieve your checked bag, overnight kits containing toiletries are available. Please see an agent.

What if the reason for my travel no longer exists? If as a result of the delay or cancellation you decide not to travel, call United reservations (1-800-UNITED-1) or Continental reservations (1-800-523-FARE) to get information on your options.

What about my bag? Baggage is boarded on the next flight if space is available. This means your bags may arrive before you. United or Continental will secure the bag until you claim it. See a baggage claim representative.

Help us help you keep informed. Sign up for Trip Alert, our messaging service. If your flight is canceled or delayed, Trip Alert will inform you. Enroll at united.com or continental.com. At home? Go to united.com or continental.com for information or to check in and print your boarding pass.

What if I have to stay overnight? If a flight is canceled to address a mechanical issue or another similar reason within our control, we will

Your safety and satisfaction are important. We appreciate your business and apologize for any inconvenience you may have experienced.

Staying Fit INFLIGHT FLEXIBILITY

134

Knee Flexion: Lift knee toward chest, decreasing the amount of joint space at back of the knee.

Repeat with other leg.

Dorsiflexion: With heel on floor, point toes upward, decreasing the angle between the foot and front of the leg. Repeat with other foot.

Eversion: With foot on floor, gently roll the sole of the foot inward. Repeat with other foot.

Knee Extension: Straighten knee, increasing the amount of joint space at the back of the knee to its full range. Repeat with other leg.

Plantar Flexion: Lift the heel and keep toes pointed toward the floor, increasing the angle between the top of the foot and front of the leg.

Repeat with other foot.

Inversion: With foot on floor, gently roll the sole of the foot outward. Repeat with other foot.

OCTOBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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CUSTOMER CARE We are committed to providing quality service, and we want to hear about your travel experience with us. In addition, if you think a certain employee or an action taken on your behalf deserves special recognition, please let us know. Please give us your feedback at ualsurvey.com.

Rechargeable batteries have a risk of overload or fire when not stored properly.

Rechargeable batteries should be stored in their electronic devices or properly protected to avoid contact with metal or other batteries during flight.

ELECTRONIC DEVICES STAGE OF FLIGHT

DEVICES PERMITTED

DEPARTURE: at gate, only when cabin door is open ARRIVAL: taxiing to gate area

Mobile phones and two-way pagers

Advanced mobile phones, PDAs and other personal electronic devices with wireless capabilities may be used in flight when switched to “airplane” mode. A visible airplanedisabled mode should be identifiable and shown to a crew member upon request.

Flight attendants will notify mobile phone and two-way pager users when it is safe to begin placing or receiving phone calls or pages after landing. One-way pagers may be used to receive messages at any time.

PDAs and other electronic devices

MUST BE TURNED OFF: during taxi, takeoff and landing

IN FLIGHT: above 10,000 feet in altitude

Noise-canceling headphones

GPS devices

ON GROUND: when main cabin door is open

Calculators

Cameras

Shavers

Personal computers*

Entertainment players and recorders (audio and/or video, such as iPods/ e-readers/tape/ CD/MiniDisc/MP3/ DVD players and camcorders)*

Aircraft power ports for laptops

Electronic games*

* must be used with sound off or with headsets at all times

MUST BE TURNED OFF: during taxi, takeoff and landing

 NEVER PERMITTED TVs

Radio receivers and/or transmitters (including AM/FM/SW, CB and scanners)

Remote-control toys and personal air purifiers

PLEASE NOTE Customers may always use any medically prescribed physiological instrument, such as a hearing aid or a pacemaker. Customers wearing hearing assistance devices may request a special headset from a flight attendant.

Passengers are allowed to use non-noise-canceling headphones during taxi, takeoff and landing on aircraft that are equipped with DIRECTV® and Audio Video On Demand (AVOD).

The in-seat power system may be used only above 10,000 feet, when other approved personal electronic devices are permitted. Use of the system is at your own risk.

Do not remove batteries.

We are not responsible for loss of data or damage to computer hardware or software.

ONBOARD PHOTO AND VIDEO The use of still and video cameras, film or digital, including any cellular or other devices that have this capability, is permitted only for recording of personal events. However, photography, audio or video recording of other customers without their express prior consent is strictly prohibited. Also, unauthorized photography, audio or video recording of airline personnel, aircraft equipment or procedures is always prohibited. Any voice, audio, video or other photography (video or still), recording or transmission while on any United Airlines aircraft is strictly prohibited, except to the extent specifically permitted by United Airlines.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • OCTOBER 2011

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INFORMATION

MileagePlus THE WORLD’S MOST REWARDING LOYALTY PROGRAM

Coming soon

On December 31, 2011, the OnePass program will end, followed by a wind-down period during the first quarter of 2012. After the wind-down, all OnePass members will automatically be enrolled in the MileagePlus program.

Until December 31, all OnePass accounts will remain active, and enrollments will still be accepted.

In 2012, MileagePlus looks forward to welcoming OnePass members into the program. With MileagePlus, members will enjoy the benefits of the world’s most rewarding loyalty program: more worldwide destinations, more comfort and more ways to earn and redeem award miles. Current members are encouraged to link their OnePass and MileagePlus accounts at united.com/linkmyaccounts.

Stay up to date on the complete details of the 2012 MileagePlus program by adding a valid email address to your account or go to mileageplusmergerupdates.com.

About MileagePlus MileagePlus is our award-winning loyalty program. When you enroll, you earn award miles every time you fly United,

136

Continental or our partners—award miles for travel to more than 1,100 destinations worldwide. You can also earn and redeem award miles with a variety of partners and programs. To enroll, pick up an application at the airport or go to mileageplus.com.

Achieve status The more you fly, the sooner you’ll achieve status, which provides additional benefits to our most valuable members.

Your qualifying activity on United and Continental this year will be combined toward your MileagePlus status for 2012.

Earn even more award miles Members can earn award miles around the world with: • Airlines • Hotels • Car rental companies • Communication partners • Credit/debit card companies • Cruises • Shopping and gift partners and many more

Status benefits • Complimentary upgrades on both United and Continental flights • Generous mileage bonuses • Special reward privileges • Premier Access travel benefits, including priority check-in, boarding and baggage handling, as well as expedited security screening • Access to Economy Plus seating (coming to Continental aircraft in fall 2011)

OCTOBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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Alliances & Partnerships

GLOBAL REACH. WORLDWIDE RECOGNITION. EXCELLENT TRAVEL SERVICES. United and the Star Alliance member airlines provide seamless air travel around the world. Star Alliance is the world’s largest global airline alliance, with more than 21,000 daily flights departing to more than 1,100 destinations. United customers have access to a comprehensive global network, frequent-flyer travel benefits and worldwide lounge access on all Star Alliance member airlines.

Star Alliance Member Airlines

The Star Alliance network Established in 1997 as the first truly global airline alliance to offer customers a worldwide travel network, Star Alliance aims to provide customers with a seamless travel experience across multiple airlines. Today, the Star Alliance network offers more than 21,000 daily flights to over 1,100 destinations in 181 countries.

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • OCTOBER 2011

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08/09/2011 10:42

THE HEMI Q&A: Martin Sheen » CONTINUED FROM PAGE 50

HEMISPHERES: But the movie version of

the journey begins with a death.

SHEEN: Emilio is the one who came up with that idea. It was actually based on a true story. A young man had come from Holland and died in the Pyrenees in a freak storm, and we met his parents on the Camino. That sort of solidified the idea of this journey.

HEMISPHERES: I’m impressed that you and your son were able to collaborate. How did you pull that off?

SHEEN: We had our moments, but it was a very loving collaboration. It involved three generations. Taylor was instrumental in helping us in Spain, because he’s lived there since 2003. He speaks the language and has a family there. He understands the culture. We couldn’t have done it without him.

HEMISPHERES: The making of this film

“There are two guys I look forward to working with again: Marty Scorsese and Emilio Estevez.

They’re my favorite directors.” quit working so much if you want to do that, Martin. How much time would it take if you did it properly?

HEMISPHERES: You looked like a pretty

decent walker in the movie.

SHEEN: I enjoyed it tremendously. I was kind of showing off in a lot of ways. I’m 71 years old now, and I feel like I could do it. I want to see it more clearly. I have all of these stored-up memories that I want to explore on my own.

HEMISPHERES: What are you up to next?

HEMISPHERES: How does Emilio rank as a

HEMISPHERES: How would you judge

yourself as a student?

SHEEN: On my own, just me, I would say about 10 weeks.

must have been a trip unto itself.

SHEEN: We were just ruled by the Camino. Emilio shot it in sequence—we started in St. Jean-Pied-de-Port—so we couldn’t redo anything. If we missed something, we had to keep moving.

Ireland. I went for one semester in 2006.

SHEEN: I was too sca ered. I was the oldest freshman of the group. I had to join a community called the Mature Students Society.

HEMISPHERES: That sounds awful.

SHEEN: It was awful. But you had to do it.

There were certain advantages, because the group was made up of people who did not want to stagnate. They were fascinating people, but I was by far the oldest. It was a li le disconcerting.

SHEEN: Since The Way I’ve done a movie in Ireland called Stella Days. It’s the story of this Catholic priest in a li le village. He’s a kind of rural intellectual who loves film. He opened the first cinema in the Irish countryside, in 1957.

HEMISPHERES: If you do get some time off,

HEMISPHERES: You play the Irish priest.

HEMISPHERES: That sounds lucrative.

Can you keep the brogue going?

Who are you playing?

SHEEN: I can, though I start out sounding like a leprechaun. They had a guy who kept having to remind me of certain words. He would just say, “Leprechaun!” and I got it.

SHEEN: I play Peter Parker’s Uncle Ben.

what are you going to do, besides walk the Camino?

SHEEN: Right now I’m doing a part in the next Spider-Man movie.

director? Did he treat his talent well?

SHEEN: I would say he’s the best. There are two guys I look forward to working with again: Marty Scorsese and Emilio Estevez. They’re my favorite directors.

HEMISPHERES: That’s high praise, even

if you’re clearly biased. As a Catholic, did you find yourself connecting in spiritual ways with what you were doing?

SHEEN: Yeah, very much so. It was an inner journey as well, and while I wasn’t able to really concentrate on the reality of doing the Camino, I felt a kind of higher calling about pu ing it on film— that it would have a big impact. I plan on going back and walking it.

HEMISPHERES: You’re going to have to

138

HEMISPHERES: Are you evil in the movie?

SHEEN: Oh God, no! Uncle Ben is the guy that inspired Spider-Man.

HEMISPHERES: You’re part Irish, too. You’ve

spent a great deal of time in Ireland, yes?

HEMISPHERES: So you’re nice?

SHEEN: I have. I went to school in Galway, briefly. That was the extent of my higher education. I had always had a kind of romanticized image of higher education because I never went to college. A er “The West Wing” ended, I was invited to take an honorary degree from the National University of

SHEEN: Yes, I’m nice—at least in SpiderMan and The Way. I try to be nice in the rest of my life as well. It works most of the time.

DAVID CARR, who covers media and culture for

The New York Times, is practicing for his Camino pilgrimage by walking to his car most mornings.

OCTOBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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12/09/2011 16:54

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» CONTINUED FROM PAGE 77

Mr. Baseball.” It’s his job to do what a decade ago was unthinkable, and what today is merely highly improbable: deliver the first-ever Chinese baseball star.

RICK DELL HAS a bent-kneed gait and a wisecracking humor gained from a lifetime in baseball, half of it—27 years— spent coaching at the College of New Jersey. He worked off-seasons as one of MLB’s few willing ambassadors to Asia before coming on full time in 2007. On Family Day, he’s wearing an MLB uniform—he never steps on a diamond without one—and his New Jersey Athletic Conference championship ring, the only ring he has, which he never removes. He’s innocently, impossibly optimistic, the kind of man who told his staff at a January meeting that the myth of Sisyphus is a fable about the need to make work fun. In other words, he’s just the guy to look for baseball standouts in China, a country where baseball has been nonexistent since the Cultural Revolution, whose national team came in dead last in the 2008 Beijing Olympics and which has yet to field a single major leaguer, much less a superstar.

MLB is betting that marketing will play a big part in turning the situation around. The organization has engaged in an aggressive campaign to pitch baseball

to China as an egalitarian game with a cosmopolitan sheen. “It’s foreign; it represents fashion, international culture, cool,” says Leon Xie, MLB’s managing director in China, the hard-nosed realist charged with selling baseball to the Chinese. But when asked how MLB can decisively capture the imaginations (and disposable income) of Chinese youth, he sighs. “We haven’t answered that question yet.”

The competition is intense. The

equipment, and the game is easy to play in the crush of China’s increasingly dense cities. Then there’s Yao Ming. Any mention of the recently retired Houston Rockets center elicits exasperated sighs from Dell and his colleagues.

Dell touches on this point over breakfast at a DoubleTree by Hilton, one of the sleek luxury hotels that have sprung up around interior China, even in Wuxi’s otherwise barren New District. “We may not get that player we’re talking about during my time here in China,” he says. “It’s not like one of these guys has to be the next—I wouldn’t say Yao Ming—let’s say Derek Jeter. It’s not like that at all.” It can’t be. Developing talent for baseball is different from developing it for other games. A physical aberration like Yao can pre y much step onto a professional basketball court. Baseball takes technique born of endless training and practice. It takes discipline.

This is the quality the Development Center is a empting to instill. Recruits live together in the dorms and eat at the same tables. They normally spend four days per week, every hour not dedicated to class or sleep, training on a dirt infield refurbished and modernized by MLB, which they share with the Xishan sports academy on the grounds of Dongbeitang High School.

BASEBALL HAS BEEN NONEXISTENT IN CHINA SINCE THE CULTURAL REVOLUTION. THE COUNTRY CAME IN DEAD LAST IN THE 2008 OLYMPICS, AND HAS YET TO FIELD A SINGLE MAJOR LEAGUER.

140

National Basketball Association’s success in China is, however unfairly, MLB’s constant standard for comparison. An estimated 300 million Chinese play basketball (compared to the 4 million or so who play baseball), and enough of them follow the NBA that Goldman Sachs once valued the association’s China market at $2.3 billion. “We’re not trying to match the NBA in 15 minutes,” Dell says. “Remember, the NBA’s been here 20, 25 years.

People lose sight of that.” The NBA has other advantages, too. Unlike baseball, basketball requires little in the way of

CONTINUED ON PAGE 142 »

OCTOBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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They have a clubhouse with laundry service, a private weight room and, of course, a pristine baseball diamond where they drill, throw, run and take ba ing practice with wooden bats.

But there is something else going on here too. Enrollees at the Development Center have their educations, equipment and housing paid for—a real gift, Dell emphasizes, for players from povertystricken provinces like Qinghai or Gansu.

The fact is, these young hopefuls are drawing on more than just talent and hard

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“NINETY-NINE POINT NINE PERCENT OF THESE KIDS ARE NEVER GOING TO PLAY IN THE MAJOR LEAGUES,” ADMITS DELL. “BUT ONE DAY, ONE OF THEM WILL.” work. They are o en, quite literally, hungry. “These kids are already be er off than they were, and they’ll be be er off when they leave,” Dell says. “And that makes me feel good about what we do.”

FAMILY DAY EXEMPLIFIES the awkward marriage between the easy community of American baseball and the Chinese imperative to impress one’s parents. “When we get a player, we get his family, too,” says Xie. “I don’t just mean his parents, but also his grandparents on both sides. If we get one, we get the rest.” On this holiday weekend, the kids seem eager to please, their

142

p072-077_140-142_HEM1011_Baseball.indd 142

expressions severe, their movements deliberate and precise. But when the time comes for the parents to have a go themselves, things quickly devolve into slapstick. They swipe, they swat, they grope and grapple and collapse to the ground laughing. Dell watches a parent ski er a ball a few feet along the ground following a swing that appeared to crack the man’s back. “It’s so weird,” he says. “It’s like when you give a Chinese person a glove. Without one they can catch the ball fine, but when you put a glove on ’em, they’re helpless!”

He’s enjoying himself now, ribbing parents and players alike. “Mr. Dou hits be er than his kid!” he yells at one hapless ba er.

“That must be his best shirt!” he hollers at a man wearing a garish yellow shirt. “Look at this guy!” he shouts as another father steps to the plate wearing camouflage cargo shorts, Tevas and a LeBron James jersey. “He looks like he’s coming from the Jersey Shore!”

Among the prospects playing today, there are a few who stand out. Aside from Soldier, there’s “Sky,” Shi Kai, a lumbering Beijing pitcher who’s throwing 80-mph heat at 13 years old, and “James,” Zhai

OCTOBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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Lianjie, a precocious switch-hitter from Changzhou who sprints 60 yards in 6.4 seconds and can sling a ball more than 300 feet. “I’ll be very surprised if we don’t have a couple of kids out of this group that would be interesting to somebody in two years,” Dell says. But even the incurable optimist can’t ignore the odds. “I already know that 99.9 percent of these kids are never going to play in the major leagues,” he says at one point. “I know that’s probably true.” He pauses, staring past the backstop. “But one day, one of them will play in the major leagues. Somebody will.”

A few days later, with their families back at home, the kids get down to the serious business of regular practice.

With the defense arrayed around the prim outfield and the raked infield, land reclaimed from the rush of industrial progress, it doesn’t look like China. It looks like something else, like a dream.

“Cowboy,” Lin Shukao, is on the mound.

The batter is James. Cowboy winds up, rears back, lurches forward, and a er his back cleat violently departs the rubber and the rough string of the seams leaves his fingertips, there is a pregnant moment, a half-second when the pitch is nothing but potential—a hit or a strike. James shi s his hips and brings the bat around.

He makes contact and sends the ball over the wall in center field, 315 feet.

The dreary Wuxi haze finally li s. The sun shines. In the distance, beyond the fence, Dongbeitang’s outdoor basketball hoops glimmer.

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08/09/2011 11:00

Chef James Canora

CHEF’S

Corner WELCOME ABOARD Sit back, relax and enjoy your flight. We are pleased to introduce our chefs who create tasty selections with regional and global influences. Their menus are designed exclusively for customers seated in our premium cabins. To complement your meal, be sure to sample one of our specially selected wines.

Celebrity Chef Jimmy Canora has been a consulting chef with our airline for 10 years. Currently chef and partner of Valentino’s on the Green in Bayside, New York, as well as corporate chef for Delmonico’s where he co-authored the Dining at Delmonico’s cookbook. Jimmy was known as “chef to the stars,” from his days at the world-famous Tribeca Grill. He also spun off NYC Culinary Events, which specializes in menu consulting and catering upscale events.

We invite you to tune into tuna by trying one of his favorite recipes.

YELLOW FIN TUNA WITH PINEAPPLE CHUTNEY T U N A P R E P A R AT I O N

6 center cut tuna filets, 6 ounces each 12 tablespoons coarsely crushed multi-color peppercorns Sea salt 4 tablespoons olive oil

Lightly season the tuna with sea salt. Roll only the sides in peppercorns. Heat olive oil in a sauté pan over medium high heat. Sear tuna for approximately 30-45 seconds each side, pepper-dusted sides first, just until the tuna turns opaque. Tuna is best served medium rare. If desired, finish in a pre-heated 375F oven for 3 to 5 minutes for medium well. Garnish with pineapple chutney.

PINEAPPLE CHUTNEY

1 cup water 1 cup sugar 1 stalk lemongrass, roughly cut and bruised 2 tablespoons ginger, peeled and sliced 2 Kaffir lime leaves 1 ½ cups pineapple, diced small Dash of red pepper flake (optional)

Bring sugar and water to a boil, lower heat and simmer 5 minutes to make simple syrup. Add lemongrass, ginger, lime leaves, and simmer another 5 minutes. Add the pineapple and bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and allow the chutney to macerate for at least 2 hours. Discard lemongrass, ginger and lime leaves. If desired, season with red pepper flakes to offset the sweetness.

Shown plated with steamed rice and grilled mixed vegetables.

W IN E PA IR IN G

Premier Cru Rully Les Cloux 2007 The vineyard for this French white wine is located in the north of the Côte Châlonnaise. The wine has a lot of freshness and mineral aromas with fruity and violet notes. It’s best paired with fish, shellfish or served as an aperitif.

David Gordon, Wine Professional and Celebrity Sommelier

p144_Hemi_Menu.indd 1

Sweet or Savory Lemongrass is widely used in Asian cuisine and in places where lemons are not common. Its subtle yet distinct flavor is excellent in chutneys, curries, stews and soups, and even herbal tea.

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