United Airlines Hemispheres Magazine November 2010

THREE PERFECT DAYS:

HO CHI MINH CITY

NOVEMBER 2010

HEMISPHERES

THREE PERFECT DAYS: HO CHI MINH CITY // GIFT GUIDE // THE HEMI Q&A WITH YAHOO!’S CEO

THE RIGHT STUFF 34 OF THE COOLEST GIFT IDEAS FROM AROUND THE GLOBE

THE LONG WALK ONE MAN’S ATTEMPT TO TRAVEL 34,000 MILES—ON FOOT

THE HEMI Q&A WITH YAHOO! CEO CAROL BARTZ PLUS: DIRECTOR DANNY BOYLE, SHACKLETON’S LOST WHISKY AND THE WEB’S FASTEST-GROWING COMPANY

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11/10/2010 09:25

Wellendorff-Boutique San Francisco at Shreve & Co., 200 Post Street, San Francisco. For further details or how to find a Wellendorff jeweller near you, please contact Wellendorff, tel. 415.860-4010 or e-mail: usa@wellendorff.com

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Thank you, San Francisco, for hosting the opening of the first Wellendorff-Boutique in North America

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24/09/2010 15:16

Quieter than ever before.

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And we didn’t stop there. We developed an ear cushion that further reduces unwanted noise and helps create an extremely comfortable fit. It works in harmony with the electronics to deliver a better listening experience. ExecDigital.com says they are “easily the best headphone available” and Murray Hill of Canada.com calls them “fabulous.”

Try them for yourself risk free. When you fly, the engine roar fades even further away. When you listen to music at home or at work, fewer distractions get in the way. Less noise, along with our acclaimed lifelike sound, a fit that stays comfortable for hours and the quality you expect from Bose. It all adds up to a combination of benefits unmatched in the industry. Seth Porges of Popular Mechanics states that “Compared to the competition…the QC15s are vastly superior.” You can relax and appreciate music, movies or just some serenity more than ever before. We invite you to try QC15 headphones for yourself risk free for 30 days. And when you call, ask about making 12 easy payments, with no interest charges from Bose.*

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1-800-404-2073, ext. Q8040 or visit Bose.com /MP *Bose payment plan available on orders of $299-$1500 paid by major credit card. Separate financing offers may be available for select products. See website for details. Down payment is 1/12 the product price plus applicable tax and shipping charges, charged when your order is shipped. Then, your credit card will be billed for 11 equal monthly installments beginning approximately one month from the date your order is shipped, with 0% APR and no interest charges from Bose. Credit card rules and interest may apply. U.S. residents only. Limit one active financing program per customer. ©2010 Bose Corporation. Patent rights issued and/or pending. The distinctive design of the headphone oval ring is a trademark of Bose Corporation. Financing and Mileage Plus® bonus miles offer not to be combined with other offers or applied to previous purchases, and subject to change without notice. Offer valid 11/1/10-11/30/10. Purchasers must use the phone number or website above to receive this offer. Risk free refers to 30-day trial only, requires product purchase and does not include return shipping. Delivery is subject to product availability. Mileage Plus offer valid only on product advertised. The 1,200 miles for above Bose product advertised are awarded in place of the standard Bose offer. If a different product is purchased, the standard offer of 2 Mileage Plus miles for every U.S. dollar spent will be honored. Miles accrued and awards issued are subject to the rules of the United Mileage Plus® program. United, its subsidiaries, affiliates and agents are not responsible for any products and services of other participating companies or partners. Please allow 6 to 8 weeks after completed qualifying activity for bonus miles to be posted to your Mileage Plus account. Bonus miles and miles earned through non-flight activity do not count toward elite status.

Bonus mile offers are subject to change without notice. Taxes and fees related to award travel are the responsibility of the passenger. United may change Mileage Plus Program rules, regulations, travel awards and special offers or terminate the Mileage Plus program at any time and without notice. Mileage Plus participation may not be permitted in some countries. United and Mileage Plus are registered service marks. Quotes reprinted with permission.

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Nov.

UNITED.COM | HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

contents

Karl Bushby’s well-traveled laptop

76 THE RIGHT STUFF A roundup of the coolest, prettiest and most useful gifts from around the world.

BY JACQUELINE DETWILER PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN LAWTON

86 THE HEMI Q&A: CAROL BARTZ Outspoken Yahoo!

CEO Carol Bartz expounds on cheap wine and tough love.

BY DAVID CARR

90 THE LONG WALK Karl Bushby is trying to get home to England from Mexico— on foot.

BY GRANT STODDARD PHOTOGRAPHS BY HOLLY WILMETH

96 THREE PERFECT DAYS: HO CHI MINH CITY The once-embattled Vietnamese city has a fast pace and vibrancy few cities can match.

P H O T O G R A P H BY H O L LY W I L M E T H

BY MATT THOMPSON PHOTOGRAPHS BY MICHAEL TUREK

Every morning, Karl Bushby sits in a café in Melaque, Mexico, and checks for an email telling him he can restart his journey. THE LONG WALK | P. 90

YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY

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08/10/2010 08:11

UNITED.COM | HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

Fairmont Royal Pavilion in Barbados

11 CEO Letter Meet Jeff Smisek.

12 Voices A message to flyers.

16 Connections What’s new at United.

18 Wish You Were Here DISPATCHES 21 Notes From All Over Residents of Islesworth, England, lounge alfresco; a Wisconsin woman likes her cheese very aged; Ramadan observers in Dubai find a sweet way to break their fasts; Ernest Shackleton’s scotch defrosts in Christchurch, New Zealand; and scientists take the stage in Austria.

DIRECTIONS 27 News Where to stay, what to see, when to go.

32 Whirlwind Five hours in Shanghai.

35 Hero Philip and Katy Leakey carry on a family legacy through their work with the Maasai.

BY SHARON MCDONNELL

CULTURE 37 Style Perfumer Jo Malone bottles sophistication.

BY LAYLA SCHLACK

39 Arts Director Danny Boyle, Harry Potter and what else to watch, read and listen to this month.

42 Whereabouts Marathoner Haile Gebrselassie stretches his legs in New York.

BY SARAH BARKER

44 Tech New chargers are smarter than the smartphones they power.

BY ALYSSA GIACOBBE

48 Sports A motorcycle race in Monterey, California, takes competitors for a wild ride.

PLAY 121 Movies, television and audio programming 132 Route Maps and Terminal Diagrams 144 Crossword and Sudoku 154 Beverages & Food 158 In Transit Who’s sitting next to you?

COVER IMAGE

Pietari Posti // pposti.com

40

BY JEREMY KORZENIEWSKI

54 Industry Chicago-based Groupon makes coupons cool.

BY ADAM K. RAYMOND

59 Food & Drink Talking turkey about the origins of Thanksgiving.

WRITE TO US:

Editorial@hemispheresmagazine.com HEMISPHERES MAGAZINE

68 Jay St., Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 SUBSCRIBE TO HEMISPHERES

For a free subscription to our monthly eMag and to access recent issues, go to HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

BY ANDREW BEAHRS

62 Hemispheres Promotion Luxury watch guide.

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75 Artifact A souvenir from the field.

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P H O T O G R A P H C O U R T E SY O F T H E FA I R M O N T R OYA L PAV I L I O N

8 Comments

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NOVEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM

comments

8

HEMISPHERES EDITOR IN CHIEF Mike Guy EXECUTIVE EDITOR Joe Keohane SENIOR EDITOR Layla Schlack ASSOCIATE EDITOR Jacqueline Detwiler ART DIRECTOR Christine Bower-Wright DESIGNER Ellie Clayman PHOTO EDITOR Erin Giunta

In a Pickle Our August story on pickling, “Preservation Society,” chronicled one writer’s family tradition—a topic that tends to provoke discussion. Web commenter Andita jumped right in and wrote, “Thanks to you and your Uncle Harry for the rye bread tip. It inspired me to make pickles as soon as I got off the plane. Perfection.”

Andita went on to share a family recipe adapted to incorporate Uncle Harry’s technique, whetting our appetites for pickles anew.

And our readers have once again heeded the call to add their own experiences in the Three Perfect Days comments. Of the September article on Paris, Ronnie writes, “That’s all excellent advice. I’d say the principle [of taking your time and not seeing everything] also applies to London and other European cities famous for their culture. Why go there if you’re going to rush around instead of taking in the ambience of the city.” We couldn’t agree more!

We also heard back from one of the businesses featured in August’s Denver piece. Vesta Dipping Grill owner Emily N. Biederman writes, “We are always so honored to be recognized. We also really appreciate authors who see Denver for what it has become in the last five to ten years. The article was beautifully written and really showcases the city.” Thanks for the kind words, Emily—it was an easy city to make look good.

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Jane Black, Jason Gay, Alyssa Giacobbe, Sarah Horne, Edward Lewine, Grant Stoddard, Matthew Thompson CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS Claire Benoist, Sasha Nialla, Graham Roumieu, Oliver Jeffers EXECUTIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR Michael Keating U.S. EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Orion Ray-Jones INK PUBLISHING, 68 Jay Street, Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 TEL: +1 347-294-1220 FAX: +1 917-591-6247

Hemispheres.ed@ink-publishing.com hemispheresmagazine.com WEBMASTER Salah Lababidi ADVERTISING U.S. GROUP PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Stephen Andrews ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER Cindy Taylor ADVERTISING SALES MANAGERS Christa Abdou, David Levy, Danny Litton, David Low N.E. ACCOUNT MANAGERS Marcus Guest, Brian McLaughlin, Scott Stone AUTOMOTIVE ACCOUNT MANAGER Carl Mischka LOS ANGELES MANAGER Marina Chetner HAWAII TERRITORY MANAGER Robert Wiegand LATIN AMERICA SALES MANAGER Alejandro Salas PRODUCTION MANAGER Joe Massey TEL: +1 678-553-8091

PRODUCTION CONTROLLERS Grace Rivera, Stacy Willis

WHAT DO YOU THINK? ?

WRITE TO US! Editorial@hemispheresmagazine.com HEMISPHERES MAGAZINE

68 Jay St. Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201

MARKETING AND EVENTS MANAGER Nikkole Wyrick

Contributors

TEL: +1 888-864-1733 FAX: +1 917-591-6247

INK PUBLISHING CEO Jeffrey O’Rourke COO Hugh Godsal PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Simon Leslie HEMISPHERES is produced monthly by Ink Publishing.

ANDREW BEAHRS A food historian who has written for The Atlantic and The New York Times, Beahrs’ third book, Twain’s Feast, was published this year. He has a special connection to Thanksgiving (“Fowl Play,” page 59). “I was an archaeologist in Plymouth, Massachusetts. I left that life to write about the flavors of the past.”

HEM_1110_Letters-Contribs.indd 1

HOLLY WILMETH An outdoors photographer, Wilmeth (“The Long Walk,” page 90) loves to hike in Rio Dulce, Guatemala, where she grew up.

“I’m getting ready to hike through the jungle to the Mirador, which is where the Mayan temples are,” she says.

Her work has appeared in National Geographic, Time and Monocle.

JEFFREY DECOSTER Decoster has created illustrations for The New Yorker, Harpers and Time, among others. He does a lot of portraiture (“The Hemi Q&A,” page 86), but still finds it challenging. “It’s difficult to achieve a likeness while trying to make a picture that’s interesting and meaningful,” he says.

All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions expressed in Hemispheres are not necessarily those of the Publisher or United Airlines, and United Airlines does not accept any responsibility for advertising content. Neither United, its subsidiaries nor affiliates guarantees the accuracy, completeness or timeliness of, or otherwise endorses these facts, views, opinions or recommendations, gives investment advice, or advocates the purchase or sale of any security or investment. You should always seek the assistance of a professional for tax and investment advice. Any images are supplied at the owner’s risk. Any mention of United Airlines or the use of United Airlines logo by any advertiser in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company or its products or services by United Airlines.

P H O T O G R A P H BY T O N YA C O M B S - B R O C K /C O U R T E SY O F M C C R A DY ’ S ( T O P )

Ink Publishing (sales), Capital Building, 255 East Paces Ferry Road, Suite 400, Atlanta, GA 30305

04/10/2010 10:02

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©2010 Garmin Ltd. or its subsidiaries. All rights reserved.

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05/10/2010 11:22

THREE DAYS IN SALT LAKE CITY FOR A SALES CONFERENCE. WHERE DO “LIFT TICKETS” GO ON AN EXPENSE REPORT?

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Thoughtfully designed Thule Crossover bags let you seize those opportunities, so you never have to leave your passions behind. LEARN MORE AT THULECROSSOVER.COM

© 2010 Thule Inc. All trademarks and copyrights are property of their respective owners.

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05/10/2010 11:33

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2010

ceo letter

11

Welcome Aboard!

I’M PLEASED TO ANNOUNCE that on October 1, 2010, Continental and United completed the first step in our merger when we completed the “legal” merger and started our journey toward becoming the new United. The new United will be the world’s leading airline, with the most comprehensive route network and leading frequent flyer program. I’m proud to lead a team of more than 80,000 coworkers as president and CEO of the combined company.

Throughout the upcoming months, you’ll gradually see changes as we integrate our operations.

Until then, it’s business as usual for you. We will continue to operate as two separate airlines under one holding company for a year or more,

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until we receive a single operating certificate from the Federal Aviation Administration. For now, you’ll continue to book your travel, check in, earn and redeem miles, and enjoy our products and services separately on Continental and United flights.

Behind the scenes, we’re working hard to integrate our policies and products. Our first area of focus is to make changes that will permit us to handle customers in a seamless and efficient manner, to bring as many benefits to you as quickly as we can. We expect to be able to do that sometime next spring.

Integrating two airlines is complex and will take time. As we complete the integration, we’ll stay true to the values that have shaped both

Continental and United through each of our more than 75-year histories: focusing on the basics of clean, safe and reliable air transportation; providing quality service and an industry-leading product; and maintaining a corporate culture built on working together.

I’m excited to be a part of the new United team. On behalf of all of my coworkers, thanks for flying with us today. We hope to see you again soon.

PRESIDENT AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER UNITED AIRLINES

06/10/2010 15:03

NOVEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM

12

voices

Combined Strength JEFF SMISEK SHARES HIS THOUGHTS ON THE UNITED–CONTINENTAL MERGER. WALTER VARNEY WAS a U.S. aviation pioneer who started up one airline in 1926 and another in 1934.

Decades later, those carriers—United Airlines and Continental Airlines—are both subsidiaries of a common holding company, United Continental Holdings Inc., and together carry passengers farther than any other airline in the world. This new airline will operate under the United Airlines name with aircraft carrying the Continental globe logo, livery and colors. We sat down with Jeff Smisek, president and CEO of the new United, to discuss what’s going on with the biggest airline merger in history.

Where are we today in the merger process?

We’ve done a lot already. We’ve been busy with integration planning since June, and we closed the legal merger on October first. But most of the actual integration work is still ahead of us. We need to harmonize every imaginable aspect of the two airlines. We expect to be able to handle each other’s customers this spring.

However, it will take about twelve to eighteen months until we have a company that works and looks like one airline.

What changes should air travelers expect to see during the merger integration?

One of our big goals is to make the merger integration effortless for our customers and to bring benefits to our customers as quickly as we can. You will start to see some changes occur gradually. We have already started painting airplanes so they all look alike, which means the airplane you fly on today might have our combined livery already and thus look different

HEM_1110_Voices.indd 1

11/10/2010 09:34

Windows®. Life without Walls™. Panasonic recommends Windows.

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The embedded modems are protected from the elements, and with a carrier subscription they deliver dependable wireless anywhere your mobile phone can. What’s more, no external air cards means there’s no risk of damaging the computer or losing the card. Everything about these machines is tough, but staying connected certainly isn’t.

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Panasonic is constantly enhancing product specifications and accessories. Specifications subject to change without notice. (*CF-31A, CF-52M and CF-52P are Intel® Core™ i5 vPro™ processor) ©2010 Panasonic Corporation of North America. All rights reserved. NotInBusiness_H_GTT_FY10-1

BUY NOW: $100 OFF THE PURCHASE PRICE OF YOUR FIRST TOUGHBOOK COMPUTER AVAILABLE FROM GET TOUGH TODAY AT 1.888.35.TOUGH / GETTOUGHTODAY.COM OFFER APPLIES TO ALL TOUGHBOOK MODELS. LIMITED TIME OFFER. COUPON CODE: UNITED

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08/10/2010 09:05

NOVEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM

14

voices

from the Continental or United jet you are accustomed to. We are going to gradually align our programs, policies and procedures so that we have a unified product offering at the conclusion of the integration process.

What do you have in store for frequent flyers?

There are three main areas where frequent flyers will see differences.

First is the network. We now have a lot more scope to take people where they want to fly, around the world. Second are the frequent-flyer programs, OnePass and Mileage Plus. We are working on plans to combine them next year into one program that will be the best one out there. Third are the airport lounges. The Presidents Club and Red Carpet Club will be merged to create a comprehensive network of lounges where members can relax before, between or after their flights.

We also plan to invest in our clubs to modernize them and make them even more appealing to our customers.

What will be your strategy for success?

Both United and Continental are great airlines. The new United will have an unmatched network, a young and fuel-efficient fleet, the best new aircraft order book among U.S. global carriers, the world’s leading frequentflyer program and the best people in the business. We will focus on the basics that have always mattered to employees and customers: a workingtogether culture based on dignity, respect and direct; open and honest communication; clean, safe and reliable air transportation; and industry-leading products and services.

“One of our big goals is to make the merger effortless for our customers and to bring benefits to our customers as quickly as we can.”

More information about the United-Continental merger is available at united.com.

How does it feel to be in charge of one of the world’s largest airlines?

It’s exciting to be able to help build the world’s leading carrier. It’s a once-ina-lifetime opportunity for all of my coworkers. Our combined network is very impressive and provides enormous utility for global travelers.

But for me the issue isn’t how big we are. There are two things that stand out for me as being most important: having clean, safe and reliable operations with great customer service, and having an airline where my coworkers enjoy coming to work, working together and doing a good job for our customers. Those are the areas where I am going to be focusing because they will make the travel experience great for our customers and will make the new United successful.

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06/10/2010 16:02

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NOVEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM

connections

16

Pete McDonald, United’s executive vice president and chief operations officer, stands with members of METROsquash after presenting them with the United Airlines Chicago Impact Award.

Going Beyond Sport UNITED PARTNERS WITH BEYOND SPORT TO CREATE POSITIVE SOCIAL CHANGE. PERHAPS YOU RELY on United Airlines to connect you to some of the largest cities in the world.

Or, maybe you rely on us to get you back to your hometown. For us, connection means more than providing safe, courteous, reliable air travel. It also means connecting families, friends, and communities together. That is why we support sports programs in our communities, from local teams to Olympians—connecting athletes, coaches and trainers to competitions and events around the world. This support of sports and community comes together in our global sponsorship of Beyond Sport—an organization that promotes, develops and funds the use of sports to create positive social change across the world.

The Beyond Sport Summit is an annual event, where our travel support helps bring together the best sports-led social innovators with influential, global leaders to address sport’s role in driving change in communities. This year, the summit was held on September 28-29 in United’s hometown of Chicago and included the announcement of the Beyond Sport Awards winners.

At this event, METROsquash received the first United Airlines Chicago Impact Award, which provides $50,000 in funding and business support to their project. This initiative was voted on by the public for having made the greatest impact in the Chicagoland community.

METROsquash uses squash as a way to engage students in academics, fitness, community service, mentoring and cultural enrichment. At METROsquash, students spend an average of 10 hours per week with the program, which gives them the additional support they need to make significant strides athletically, academically and personally.

We are proud to lend our name to such a positive initiative that is taking place right here in our backyard, and hope it inspires others to go beyond sport all around the world.

To learn more about United’s commitment to communities, visit united.com/corporateresponsibility

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United Airlines and the American Cancer Society invite you to meet the newest additions to the Hugyou family of bears— twins! For the fourth year in a row, you can help bring bear hugs and smiles to children with cancer by sending Wanda Hugyou (Want-to-hugyou) and Will Hugyou (Will-hug-you) to a brave child battling cancer.

For a minimum contribution of $50 or 7,500 Mileage Plus® miles to the American Cancer Society, you can help comfort kids undergoing treatment. United will arrange for the huggable, limited-edition Gund® teddy bear twins—Wanda and Will Hugyou—to be delivered to children in select hospitals across the country. Contribute $250 or more and a second set of teddy bears will be sent to your home.

The miles collected are used to fly families needing financial assistance to treatment facilities across the country, while the dollars raised benefit cancer research and critical ACS programs.

To donate, please visit united.com/bearhug

PH OT OGR A PH S BY UNI T ED AIR L INE S CR EAT IV E SE RV ICE S

GIVE DOUBLE THE BEAR HUGS TO KIDS WITH CANCER

06/10/2010 15:53

MOBILE BOARDING PASS

SCAN AT SECURITY AND GATE

Wireless check-in.

Paperless boarding pass.

Introducing United mobile check-in and boarding pass.

Now you can check in on the go, and have your boarding pass sent directly to your phone for select itineraries. Just go to united.com on your mobile device to check in for your flight and to get your mobile boarding pass, complete with instructions on how to use it at the airport. To learn more visit united.com/mobileservices.

®

®

Mobile check-in is currently available for any United - or United Express -operated flight within the U.S., Puerto Rico or the U.S. Virgin Islands. Mobile boarding passes are currently available for customers with seat assignments on flights departing select airports on United - and United Express -operated itineraries within the United States, the U.S. Virgin Islands and Puerto Rico. ©2010 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved. ®

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®

07/10/2010 11:10

18

wish you were here

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04/10/2010 10:03

P H O T O G R A P H BY GA RY M O O N/ P H O T O L I B R A RY

ACADIA NATIONAL PARK, MAINE

INTO THE WOODS // A boardwalk near Sieur de Monts Spring

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04/10/2010 10:04

See what consumers are saying about the unmatched toughness and reliability of FellowesÂŽ 100% Jam Proof Shredders. Read all reviews at www.fellowes.com.

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27/05/2010 09:49

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2010

dispatches

21

NOTES FROM ALL OVER

ISLEWORTH, ENGLAND

IN EARLY SEPTEMBER, in front of the Osterley House, a nearly

Country Seats

500-year-old redbrick Tudor mansion a half-hour from London, the best part of summer has just been carted away.

“You should have seen it,” a groundskeeper says, standing in GROWING A NEW KIND OF COUCH POTATO. a depression made by a recently removed 30-foot-long grass couch. “It sure wasn’t your grandmother’s living room set.”

ILLUSTRATIONS BY GRAHAM ROUMIEU Shocked by a poll that found British families were spending an average of 43 hours a week sitting at home on their sofas, the National Trust—a charity dedicated to preserving historic houses and gardens in the U.K.—decided to do something to lure British couch potatoes into the fresh air.

Their idea? Giant grass living room sets placed on 11 of their properties around the British Isles. “We wanted to see people paying our landscapes the same kind of attention they were paying their living room sofas,” says Karina Swann, a visitor experience manager for the National Trust. “If people were determined to stay seated even in summertime, we thought, fine. We’d let them. We’d compromise.”

Assembled on-site with bales of hay and hundreds of feet of grass turf, the sofas were arranged—from Devon to Dorset to Wales—so that coastal views and rolling meadows would replace TVs and computer monitors. They attracted hundreds of curious visitors a week.

Here at the Osterley House, where Sir Thomas Gresham’s mansion stands in the background like a portrait over a fireplace, it took only three weeks of heavy sitting for the grassy mammoth to collapse. “It was a climbing frame, a castle, a horse, a slide and all manner of things in between,” Swann says. “It was a victim of its own success.”

Today, with the sofa gone and gray clouds filling the sky, the groundskeeper sighs. “It was the best thing about the summer,” he says. “I heard they might do it again next year.” And then he shuffles away. No time— and no place—to sit and chat.–JOEY RUBIN

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04/10/2010 10:07

NOVEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM

dispatches

22

MONROE, WISCONSIN

WELL-AGED

When Mary Ann Hanna, director of Wisconsin’s National Historic Cheesemaking Center, arrived at Arnold Imobersteg’s farm near Orangeville, Illinois, late last year, the cramped white shed on the property looked no different from hundreds of other abandoned outbuildings on farms across the Midwest. But inside, it contained the dairy equivalent of Pompeii: a farmstead creamery that stood exactly as it had when Imobersteg’s Swiss-born parents stopped making cheese there in 1917—right down to the copper kettle and wooden cheese press bars. Hanna, who had been tipped off by a high school classmate, has seen plenty of dusty cheesecloths in her day, but even she was impressed. “It was just like somebody yanked me back to the early 1900s,” she says.

Imobersteg, 92, was more than happy to donate the 20-by-20-foot

HEM_1110_Dispatches.indd 2

shed in its entirety to the Cheesemaking Center. Since then, a team comprising a bricklayer, a blacksmith and several cheese experts has been working diligently to clean it up. “I’ve seen restorations, but nothing like this,” says Ron Buholzer, a cheesemaker who has worked on the project. “It’s very rare to discover both the equipment and the building still in place.”

Once the structure is reopened to the public, local cheesemakers will gather under its rafters to craft giant wheels of Swiss for the first time in almost a century. The find will also be the focus of a documentary set to be released next year

by Wisconsin filmmaker Bob Leff, whose imagination is running wild with the potential reenactments.

“I can just picture how some guy had to be sprawled out above the kettle skimming the curds,” he says. “I guess it’s probably not that different from how they made cheese in the Middle Ages.”

–JEANETTE HURT

Business has been slow all day at “the world’s largest candy store,” Candylicious, located in the heart of the world’s biggest shopping mall. It’s a Friday afternoon during Ramadan, the Islamic holy month in which eating and drinking during daylight hours are prohibited. “It’s like a ghost town,” says Don Tay, manager of the wildly colorful 10,000-square-foot emporium.

Not for long. Around six p.m., the copper kettles in the in-store Garrett Popcorn Shop begin to stir and the smell of popcorn fills the air. At the store’s old-fashioned soda fountain, an employee sets out red velvet cupcakes and uncovers vats of ice cream. Customers hover nearby, waiting for 6:48 p.m., the precise moment when the day’s fast officially ends.

At seven or so, three Kuwaiti children add spiral lollipops to the sugary stash in their miniature shopping cart. “They want everything,” their mother says with a sigh.

By 8:30, the crowd has grown, and the mood has picked up. Candylicious is returning to its default state of happy chaos. Free samples are in circulation, and the customers aren’t shy about reaching for them. Games are played. A girl runs through the store chanting, “Chocolates!

Chocolates!” until she finds herself suddenly mesmerized by a giant Pucker Powder dispenser.

At the front of the store, a cherubic boy dons safety goggles and steps into a clear plastic box. For 40 seconds, he grabs at pink tickets that tornado around him, stuffing them down his shirt as a crowd watches. When it’s over, he surrenders his tickets to the clerk for a Tootsie Roll and a lollipop, followed by a kiss from his mother.

“This is still nothing,” says Tay, surveying the scene. “At our peak, we have to put barricades up to prevent people from coming in.” Eid—the holiday that marks the end of Ramadan, and Candylicious’ busiest day of the year—is in two weeks. “Everybody will come out to celebrate,” he says with a chuckle. “They’re going to be in the mood for shopping.”—KAY KIM

DUBAI

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No.27649_ATT.indd 1

08/10/2010 09:11

NOVEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM

dispatches

24

CHRISTCHURCH, NEW ZEALAND

SCOTCH ON THE ROCKS

To a whisky lover like Michael Milne, one particular exhibit at Christchurch’s Canterbury Museum trumps all others.

Strolling past the museum’s Antarctic collection, Milne approaches a sterile-looking temperature-controlled room. He peers through the window at 11 strawcovered bottles of Scotch sitting in individual drying hammocks. Milne’s heart, he says, “skips three beats.”

The bottles—each containing 114-year-old Mackinlay’s Rare Old Highland Malt Whisky—are undergoing a controlled thaw. Just months before, three crates of the stuff were exhumed from the permafrost beneath

legendary explorer Ernest Shackleton’s hut in Antarctica. The distinctive smell and sounds of sloshing raised hopes worldwide that Antarctica’s year-round sub-subzero temperatures had preserved the whisky perfectly. “I could smell wood and salt and sea and just a faint whiff of whisky,” says Milne, a whisky broker who was there when the crates were transferred to the museum. “It sent a

wee shiver down the spine.”

The crates were stashed during Shackleton’s 1908 Nimrod expedition, along with 2,500 cases of supplies—including somewhat less enticing items such as tinned mutton and concentrated egg powder—carried in via boat

by Shackleton’s crew.

Master blender Richard Paterson, who works for Whyte & Mackay, the new owners of the Mackinlay’s brand, says it would be the

highlight of his career to “nose,” analyze and copy the whisky. He suspects it might be “something of a very high quality,” but he can’t be certain yet. The original recipe is long lost.

Staring through the glass at the museum, Milne regrets he won’t get to taste the whisky. Samples may be extracted for analysis, but the bottles will eventually be returned to Antarctica for posterity.

—JOANNA DAVIS

One chilly September evening, 22 costumed men and women from all over the world mill around a tent on the campus of the Vienna Biocenter. They belong to the center’s newly formed Amateur Dramatic Club, and they’re about to perform an experimental version of Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream.

Experimental in more ways than one: The performers are scientists, not actors.

Vienna brims with high culture, but it’s also a major life sciences hub, and the Vienna Biocenter complex is its crown jewel. Tonight’s performance brings those worlds together, if a little awkwardly. “Some people may still view scientists as shock-haired Frankensteins playing with forces beyond our control,” says Brooke Morriswood, a postdoctoral fellow at the Max F. Perutz Laboratories, who’s playing Oberon. “But in reality, science is a highly creative endeavor with a lot in common with the arts.”

About 200 people, plied with plenty of beer, have gathered to watch the spectacle. The scientists take the stage. Apart from having little theatrical experience, most of them are speaking English as a second language, which seems to unlock whole stores of mayhem buried deep in the Bard’s beloved comedy. Adding to the effect, the action continually moves around the campus, from the Intercell “Smart Vaccines” patio (Duke Theseus’ court in Athens) to an adjacent lawn (Oberon’s magical forest), with the lively crowd tromping along.

As the final act begins, it starts to rain. By Puck’s famous closing speech, it’s pouring. “Give me your hands, if we be friends,” beseeches the mischievous elf in a thick German accent. The crowd obliges, first by applauding enthusiastically and then by helping the performers haul the improvised stage equipment out of the rain and back into the labs.—CHRIS MOONEY

VIENNA

Bard Brains

HEM_1110_Dispatches.indd 3

04/10/2010 10:07

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2010

directions

news

P H O T O G R A P H BY C H U C K C H O I /C O U R T E SY O F T H E M FA

WHERE TO STAY / WHAT TO SEE / WHEN TO GO

In the Wings Big things are happening this month at Boston’s Museum of Fine Arts, starting with the November 20 opening of a brand-new 125,000-squarefoot wing. Designed by Pritzker Prize–winning architects Foster + Partners, the space will showcase the loftily titled “Art of the Americas” collection, featuring 5,000 pieces from North, South and Central America. Plus, the MFA will finally have a chance to show off some pieces it’s had tucked away in its closets, such as Paul Revere’s Sons of Liberty Bowl. mfa.org

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04/10/2010 12:24

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CALENDAR NOVEMBER 4-6 EUREKA SPRINGS, ARKANSAS // A performance by headliner Eliza Gilkyson and the Barefoot Ball will have you whoopin’ it up at the Ozark Folk Festival. ozarkfolkfestival.com

RANCH DRESSING // Set amid more than 6,000 private acres of pristine Montana, the Ranch at Rock Creek is a cowboy’s playground—with some of the country’s best fly fishing, horseback riding and hiking (there are even a couple of abandoned silver mines). With a four-lane bowling alley, cowhide rugs, a cozy main lodge with rocklined fireplaces and top-shelf victuals, and a row of canvas tents (each with its own potbelly stove), you’ll feel right at home on the range. theranchatrockcreek.com

BE COOL

Gaylord Hotels get a slick makeover every year from November to January with their ICE! wonderlands.

Four properties—Gaylord National Resort outside Washington, D.C.; Gaylord Opryland Resort in Nashville; Gaylord Palms Resort in Kissimee, Florida; and Gaylord Texan Resort in Dallas—cool off with ice slides, statues and nativities.

Fear not: The hotels have parkas on hand in case things get too cool. gaylordhotels.com

4-21 BERLIN// The annual Berlin Fairy Tale Days bring you three magical weeks of plays, readings and puppet shows dedicated to the art of storytelling. Families who visit will vacation happily ever after. maerchenland-ev.de

5-14 MENDOCINO COUNTY,CALIFORNIA // Wine festivals may be abundant, but the Mendocino Wine & Mushroom Fest is as rare a find as the morels you’ll munch on. visitmendocino.com

TRIPPING THE LIGHT FANTASTIC // Everyone

knows the Aurora Borealis is spectacular—so much so, in fact, that Hurtigruten has designed a cruise devoted to spotting those northern lights. The six-, seven-, 11- or 12-day “Hunting the Light” voyage runs this month through March 15 along the west coast of Norway. In addition to aurora-spotting, you’ll go dog-sledding and enjoy a Viking feast. You’ll also spend time above the Arctic Circle, so have your list ready for Santa, just in case. hurtigruten.com

HEM_1110_TravelNews.indd 2

6 CHICAGO // No matter what type of digital camera you tote around, the beginnerlevel workshop with the Digital Photo Academy will have you snapping expert pics in just one class. digitalphotoacademy.com

C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P : P H O T O G R A P H S C O U R T E SY O F T H E R A N C H AT R O C K C R E E K , C O U R T E SY O F M Ä R C H E N L A N D, BY S H U T T E R S T O C K , BY P E R-A N D R E H O F F M A N N/ P H O T O L I B R A RY, BY S H U T T E R S T O C K

HOTEL SPOTLIGHT

04/10/2010 12:24

DISCOVER

TAHITIAN PEARL

Its coat reflects the glittering lagoons of the atolls of French Polynesia; its shape and curves express the sensuality of the female form. Born from the South Seas, the Tahitian pearl has all the colors, the charms, the shapes and hues that you can dream of.

A symbol of purity and elegance, it captivates anyone who sets eyes on it. And it is easy to fall under its spell… but sometimes difficult to choose a favorite. To select your pearl, listen to your heart. And if you still have a doubt, criteria such as size, shape, surface, radiance or color will help you make your choice.

SURFACE QUALITY The surface quality of a Tahitian pearl is appreciated by the naked eye. As any natural product, some pearls may show some surface imperfections.

THERE ARE FIVE PEARL CATEGORIES : • TOP GEM category : Perfect quality, no defects • Category A : Tiny, almost invisible blemishes • Category B : Very light imperfections.

COLOR Although they are commonly called black pearls, Tahitian pearls offer a wide range of colors. In their natural state they show a palette of infinite, unique shades : cherry, cream, peacock, green, blue, gray, white… Choice in this matter is above all a matter of personal taste !

SHAPE Tahitian pearls exhibit a great number of shapes, usually divided in five categories : round/ semi-round, oval/button, drop, circled, semibaroque and baroque. While round pearls have long been buyers’ favorites, other categories attract more and more designers who draw their inspiration from the pearls’ original yet natural shapes, to create unique pieces of jewelry.

• Category C : Marks on less than 2/3 of the surface • Catégorie D : Relatively important marks

SIZE The pearl of Tahiti is generally between 8 and 14mm. Very exceptionally, some pearls exceed 18mm, and are considered extremely rare treasures.

RADIANCE The radiance of a pearl is made of its luster and its orient. The luster, or shine, is determined by the degree of light reflection on the pearl’s surface. Beautiful luster means that light is totally reflected, resulting in a mirror effect. The weaker the luster, the duller the effect.

The orient determines the iridescence of the pearl, which comes from the decomposition of light through the layers of nacre. Beautiful orient results in a soft rainbow effect, similar to what is seen on soap bubbles.

PEARL VALUATION In general, the bigger the pearl’s diameter and the rounder its shape, the higher its value.

This rule doesn’t always strictly apply.

The value of a large, lower quality pearl may be less than the value of a smaller, blemishfree pearl. However, the color and radiance criteria that are specific to the pearl of Tahiti remain the most decisive for experts.

TAKING CARE OF YOUR PEARL Once removed from its shell, the Tahitian pearl requires tender loving care. The pearl of Tahiti is a gem that rehydrates on skin contact, so wearing it often is essential.

Any acid aggression can be fatal. Its main enemies are chlorinated water, perfume or hairspray… The Tahiti pearl should be wiped regularly with a soft cloth.

CONCEPT - Photos F. Payet

THE

Les Jardins de Paofai - Front de mer - BP 43 474 Papeete Tahiti Tél. +689 540 040 - Fax : +689 540 044 - contact@maisondelaperle.pf

No.30412_La_Maison_Du_Perle.indd 1

07/10/2010 10:49

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CALENDAR NOVEMBER 10-14 HOUSTON // Rub elbows with indie film darling Isabella Rossellini at the Cinema Arts Festival Houston, which is devoted to movies about art. cinemartsociety.org

GOLF SPOTLIGHT

OLD IS THE NEW NEW // Just outside Dallas, the Old American Golf Club was

AN AMERICAN TALE

The Smithsonianaffiliated National Museum of American Jewish History opens in Philadephia on November 14. Just a block from the Liberty Bell, this is the first museum in the world devoted to the history of Jewish people in the U.S., from their arrival in 1654, to Barbra Streisand’s turn in Yentl, to the present day.

11-14 NEW YORK // Tired of counting calories? Then don’t! Instead, indulge in goodies by Callebaut and Jacques Torres at the New York Chocolate Show. chocolateshow.com EXCELLENT ADVENTURES // Stretching out on the beach need not involve falling asleep, drink in hand. Ceiba del Mar Beach & Spa Resort on the Riviera Maya has yoga, meditation and Biomeridian Treatment experts to help you stretch out in a more gratifying way. The “Mystical Mayan Adventure” also includes a purifying ritual. That’s how you relax on the beach. ceibadelmar.com

nmajh.org

26- DECEMBER 5 CARIBBEAN COOL // The Fairmont Royal Pavilion in Barbados had a lot going for it before it went in for extensive renovations: It’s situated on 11 acres of lush tropical gardens in a place where the temperature stays between 75 and 90 degrees all year. Now the hotel also boasts 24 spacious suites with private terraces perfect for moonlit dinners.

Hire a sitter: The resort is adults only during peak season. fairmont.com/royalpavilion

HEM_1110_TravelNews.indd 3

KEY WEST // Bust out your eye patch for a weekend of swashbuckling sailing excursions, singing, dancing and gripping tales of the sea during the Pirates in Paradise festival. piratesinparadise.com

C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P : P H O T O G R A P H S C O U R T E SY O F O L D A M E R I CA N G O L F C L U B , C O U R T E SY O F S U N DA N C E C H A N N E L , C O U R T E SY O F T H E C H O C O L AT E S H OW, C O U R T E SY O F FA I R M O N T R OYA L PAV I L I O N, C O U R T E SY O F NAT I O NA L M U S E U M O F A M E R I CA N J E W I S H H I S T O RY, C O U R T E SY O F C E I BA D E L M A R

crafted by PGA star Justin Leonard and renowned golf architect Tripp Davis to evoke golf’s so-called Golden Age courses, like Shinnecock Hills and Prairie Dunes. Now, if you can just find that old swing. thetribute.com

04/10/2010 12:24

Experience the pleasure of illy espresso with a single touch.

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No.30180_Illy_Cafe.indd 1

06/10/2010 10:35

32

dispatches

Start with Shanghai’s succulent signature pork and crab soup dumplings, xiaolong bao, at Din Tai Fung (South Block, Unit 11, House 6, Ln. 123 Xingye Rd.; dintaifung.com.tw). Use the triedand-true technique: Nibble a small hole in the dumpling and suck out the broth before biting into it—but beware, it’s hot! (0:30) Stroll into Xintiandi (xintiandi.com), where restored shikumen (stone gate) homes dating back to the 1860s now house chic restaurants and shops. Forget about the schlocky souvenirs, and buy something functional, like a contemporary teapot at Zen Lifestore or a handbag made from colorful sandbag cloth at Oshadai. (1:30) Before leaving Xintiandi, peek into the Shikumen Open House Museum (25, Ln. 181, Taicang Rd.) to see a re-creation of what these cute houses looked like in the 1920s, complete with vintage sewing machines and magazines with Hollywood stars on the covers. (2:00) For slightly more valuable (and older) Chinese artifacts, head over to People’s Square and the Shanghai Museum (201 Renmin Ave.; shanghaimuseum.net)—it’s the building that looks like a giant cooking pot. Inside, feel younger than ever as you browse the 120,000 antiquities. (3:00) Return to the present day and rest your eyes on something pink at the mind-boggling sixfloor extravaganza that is Barbie Shanghai (550 Central Huaihai Rd.; barbieshanghai.com), the world’s only store devoted entirely to the iconic doll. (3:20) Stay with the kitschy theme and head to Dongtai Road (just off Xizang Rd.), a treasure trove of dinner plates, ceramic statues and furniture sets all branded with the faces of Chairman and Madam Mao, as well as other authentic Red paraphernalia. (3:45) Go upscale on the city’s iconic riverfront promenade, The Bund. Peek inside the grand Victorian buildings to see impressive Art Deco interiors with slick modern updates. (4:15)

BOARDING PASS

Board a United flight to Shanghai and experience a fascinating mix of East and West. China’s most populous city oozes an atmosphere of vitality and modernity that will make you forget how historic it is.

Before you head out, position yourself at the window of Vue Bar at Hyatt on the Bund (199 Huang Pu Rd.; shanghai.bund.hyatt.com). From here, drink in the complete panorama of this wonderful and bizarre city. When the colored spotlights come on at night, they’ll take your breath away. (5:00)

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Print Date: 09/10

30/09/2010 11:17

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2010

hero

35

In the Tall Grass PHILIP AND KATY LEAKEY DREAMED UP A SUSTAINABLE BUSINESS FOR THE MAASAI.

BY SHARON MCDONNELL// PHOTOGRAPH BY EHREN JOSEPH WHO • PHILIP LEAKEY, 61,

AND KATY LEAKEY, 56

• To create an alternative business plan for a Kenyan tribe of cattle herders. In 2001, the Maasai were devastated by a drought so severe it made it nearly impossible for them to support their families. That’s when the Leakeys—who had been living with the tribe—stepped in. They taught Maasai women to make and sell jewelry from the remaining nuisance grass and fallen acacia wood, using natural dyes and glass beads at outdoor workstations spread across 150 miles in the Rift Valley. “We tried to design a system that doesn’t interrupt their lifestyles,” says Philip.

A woman who works around 30 hours a week can earn enough in a month to feed her family for a year; after working three months, she can also educate her children for a year.

MISSION

MOTIVATION • Philip is the son of famed paleoanthropologists Louis and Mary Leakey, so he and Katy have deep roots in rural Kenya. “Philip and I witness the positive change that stems from their learning and earning on a daily basis,” says Katy. “People ask what makes the Maasai so happy. It’s something that our ancestors knew: Make family and friends the center of your universe. It’s what they’ve taught one individual American woman who lives among them.”

• Leakey Collection jewelry is sold online and in shops in more than 20 countries worldwide. Visit leakeycollection.com.

GET INVOLVED

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No.00000 House Ad (Travel_Options_Premier_Travel).indd 1

07/10/2010 15:25

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2010

style

culture

37

ART & COMMERCE

Scents and Sensibility

P H O T O G R A P H S C O U R T E SY O F J O M A L O N E

PERFUMER JO MALONE CHANNELS COOL BRITANNIA. BY LAYLA SCHLACK

R1_HEM_1110_Style[1].indd 1

DEBBIE WILD, perfumer Jo Malone’s director of fragrance and lifestyle, wants you to think of your favorite fragrance the way you would “your little black dress”—which is to say, as a starting point. “You can accessorize your main fragrance with other scents for something that’s uniquely your own,” she says. To help people go about this, Malone patented “The Art of Fragrance Combining,” an initiative complete with an interactive website that helps customers figure out which whic scent combinations work best.

While most perfumers want their product to Wh be immediately recognizable, Jo Malone stresses im simplicity and personalization—fitting for a simp company that started when a young Malone began comp mixing mixin soap shavings with flowers that grew outside outsi her English countryside home. Although the line li has since been bought by Estée Lauder and Malone is no longer involved, the products M remain rema refreshingly uncomplicated. The simple bottles bottle adorned with black-on-ivory labels contain such elemental fragrances as Vintage Gardenia V and Verbenas of Provence. “They’re very fresh and clean Wild says. “And they’re very English. Our clean,” new one, o English Pear and Freesia, was inspired by the th John Keats poem ‘Ode to Autumn.’”

This year, Jo Malone has entered its first Th partnership, a collaboration with another very partn English Engli firm, Farrow & Ball, a paint and wallpaper company comp that specializes in historic colors. The two have h created a limited edition line of candles.

A travel tra set will be available internationally this month. mont “We’ve matched some of our scents to their color Wild says. “The philosophy is decorating colors,” your home with scent. You want your home to b look beautiful and smell beautiful, too.” Keats, that lo old lover of beauty, would approve.

04/10/2010 10:16

The Original Hawaiian Slipper Pendant with Diamonds

Matching Earrings available

Various sizes available TUBSUJOH GSPN GPS PVS Petite Slipper Pendant with Diamonds Chain additional "WBJMBCMF JO , :FMMPX White or Rose Gold

OAHU: Ala Moana Center t Outrigger Waikiki on the Beach t Waikiki Beachwalk t Hilton Hawaiian Village MAUI: Queen Kaâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;ahumanu Center t Lahaina Cannery t The Shops at Wailea t Whalers Village Front Street (2 locations) t Hyatt Regency Maui t Grand Wailea Resort KAUAI: Poipu Shopping Village t Grand Hyatt Kauai BIG ISLAND OF HAWAII: Kona Marketplace t Kingsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Shops t Hilton Waikoloa Village NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINES: Pride of America BOSTON: Natick Collection t Northshore Mall CHICAGO: Oakbrook Center t Woodfield Mall DALLAS: NorthPark Center DENVER: Cherry Creek Shopping Center LOS ANGELES: Glendale Galleria t Northridge Fashion Center NEW YORK: Roosevelt Field ORLANDO: The Mall at Millenia PHILADELPHIA: The Plaza at King of Prussia PLEASANTON: Stoneridge Mall PORTLAND: Washington Square SAN DIEGO: Fashion Valley t Horton Plaza SAN FRANCISCO: Pier 39 SAN JOSE: Valley Fair SEATTLE: Bellevue Square WASHINGTON, D.C.: Tysons Corner Center

XXX /B)PLV DPN t

No.27753_Na_Hoku.indd 1

24/09/2010 15:24

CULTURE | NOVEMBER 2010

arts

39

The Big Ten WHAT TO WATCH, READ AND LISTEN TO THIS MONTH. SPY GAMES • In the fraught early days of the war in Iraq, Valerie Plame became a household name—not great for the career of a deep-cover CIA operative. Naomi Watts stars opposite Sean Penn in Fair Game, the Cannes hit that puts the Plame affair on the big screen. NOVEMBER 5 1

TEAM COCO • After 16 years at Late Night and a brief turn in Johnny Carson’s Tonight Show throne, Conan O’Brien heads to TBS. Fans eagerly await the return of such Conan staples as Triumph the Insult Comic Dog and the ever-elegant Vomiting Kermit. NOVEMBER 8 2

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P H O T O G R A P H S BY M I C H A E L CAU L F I E L D/ W I R E I M AG E ( L AV I G N E ) , C O U R T E SY O F A R T S T R E I B E R ( O’ B R I E N ) , C O U R T E SY O F JA A P B U I T E N D I J K / WA R N E R B R O S . E N T E R TA I N M E N T ( H A R RY P O T T E R ) , C O U R T E SY O F S U M M I T E N T E R TA I N M E N T ( FA I R GA M E )

5

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DARK STAR • Stephen King returns to his best format, the short story (1978’s Night Shift is a masterpiece), with Full Dark, No Stars, a bleak and unsparing collection of macabre morality tales. The characters in the four stories are classic King; the collection is the work of a writer at the peak of his powers. NOVEMBER 9 3

BLACK MAGIC • The once lighthearted Harry Potter film franchise has grown darker, both literally and figuratively, as the series has progressed. For the first half of The Deathly Hallows, in which the heroes set off to defeat Lord Voldemort, you may find yourself reaching for a flashlight—and a Kleenex. NOVEMBER 19 4

OLDER, BUT WISER • Erstwhile punk pixie Avril Lavigne is all grown up—but she didn’t get there the easy way. Her long-awaited single finally drops this month, after nearly a half-dozen delays (possibly stemming from a recent divorce).

The more sober sound heralds a new era for the singer-songwriter.

5

ILLUSTRATIONS BY CHLOÉ FLEURY

R1_HEM_1110_Culture.indd 1

11/10/2010 09:24

arts

40

6

LOST AND FOUND • Moonlight Mile, the hard-boiled sequel to Dennis Lehane’s best-selling Gone, Baby, Gone, brings back Patrick Kenzie and Angie Gennaro after a 10-year hiatus. The Boston-based PIs now have a daughter and a house, but their plans to pursue a more respectable (read: less violent) life are derailed when a girl from their past goes missing. NOVEMBER 2 6

KEEPING UP WITH THE JONES • On top of being a nine-time Grammy winner, Norah Jones has become one of the music industry’s most sought-after duet partners. …Featuring collects some of her best collaborations, including performances with Dolly Parton, Scottish pop powerhouse Belle and Sebastian, rapper Q-Tip and the late, great Ray Charles. NOVEMBER 2 A LITTLE BIT COUNTRY • Miranda Lambert and Brad Paisley will host the 44th annual CMA Awards, and both are up for quite a few, as are Carrie Underwood and Keith Urban. Winning an award or two should take the sting out of their dogs running away and their pickups getting flat tires. NOVEMBER 10 8

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RANSOM NOTES • Over 30 years, Elvis Costello, that effusive icon of New Wave, has collaborated with everyone from Burt Bacharach to Sir Paul McCartney. By enlisting prolific producer T-Bone Burnett for National Ransom, the gaptoothed Brit takes a crafty step toward canonization as an American master. NOVEMBER 2 9

HEM_1110_Culture.indd 2

SEND IN THE CLOWNS PBS’s Circus, a six-part documentary, looks at the lives of people who actually run away to join the circus.

By turns funny, poignant and just plain bizarre, this behindthe-scenes glimpse of the Big Apple Circus brings a new dimension of magic to the big top. NOVEMBER 3 10

Disarmed and Dangerous DIRECTOR DANNY BOYLE’S NEW FILM EXPLORES ONE MAN’S VERY, VERY DIFFICULT DECISION. BY MIKE GUY WHEN THE STORY of Utah-based hiker Aron Ralston hit the news wire in 2006, it struck a chord. Ralston was hiking alone when a boulder shifted and pinned his arm to the wall of a canyon. To free himself, he had to cut off his own arm with a jackknife.

“Aron’s story fascinated me,” says Oscarwinning director Danny Boyle (Slumdog Millionaire), between screenings of 127 Hours, his riveting flick about Ralston’s saga. “What happened to Aron is the sort of event that pushes a person as far as possible, and it has an intensity that is just tailor-made for cinema.”

During audience testing, Boyle paid close attention to how much pain viewers could endure—after all, there is such a thing as too much intensity.

“I wanted to make sure it was never sensational or fanciful,” Boyle explains.

“Especially the moment when he has to break the two bones in his arm. That’s very tough for people in the audience. When it happens, James [Franco, who plays Ralston] screams, but they are screams of delight rather than pain, because that’s when he realizes he can actually do this, that he can actually escape and live.”

Over the course of filming, Boyle contemplated whether he’d be able to do what Ralston did if put in a similar situation.

“Yes,” he says. “I think we all would. Aron is our representative; he’s been chosen by nature to test what we’re capable of.”

P H O T O G R A P H S BY C F L A N I GA N/ F I L M M AG I C ( L A M B E R T ) , C O U R T E SY O F AU T U M N D E W I L D E ( J O N E S ) , C O U R T E SY O F DAV I D S M O L E R (C I R C U S ) , BY K U R T K R I E G E R /C O R B I S ( B OY L E )

7

04/10/2010 10:17

When youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re faced with a serious heart condition, you have some serious thinking to do. And your ďŹ rst thought should be where to be treated.

Because the fact is not all heart centers have the same capabilities. Only a select few in the country have the experience and skills of physicians and nurses who have conducted

Choosing a heart center is not a routine procedure.

thousands of cardiac procedures. And only a select few are making groundbreaking advancements that can dramatically improve your outlook for a full recovery. We are one of those centers.

Yale-New Haven Hospital is the primary teaching hospital of Yale School of Medicine. Heart and heart surgery services at Yale-New Haven was ranked 21st by U.S.News & World Report in 2010.

Heart & Vascular Center

www.ynhh.org/cardiac

No.28135_Yale_New_Haven_Hospital.indd 1

24/09/2010 15:27

NOVEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM

42

whereabouts

The Places I Go: Haile Gebrselassie

“When I travel for a marathon, I stay close to my hotel to save my strength for the race. But I always make time to go to Central Park—it’s so beautiful with the trees and gardens.

It’s wonderful to have that kind of place in the middle of such a big city. Of course, those beautiful hills are quite difficult at the end of the race, but by then I know I’m almost finished.

“For a little more action, I go to Times Square. I like to stop by all those little souvenir shops where there are so many symbols of the United States, like the Statue of Liberty and the Empire State Building. I always pick up some shirts and caps for my wife and kids—I can’t go home empty-handed!”

Haile Gebrselassie is running the ING New York City Marathon on November 7.

HEM_1110_Wherabouts.indd 1

P H OT OGR APH BY JAS O N BELL/CAMERA P RE S S/ RETNA LTD.

THE WORLD RECORD– HOLDING MARATHONER LOVES A QUICK 26.2-MILE TOUR OF NEW YORK CITY. BY SARAH BARKER

04/10/2010 10:18

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No.30350_Carbonite.indd 1

06/10/2010 10:22

NOVEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM

tech

44

Roaming Charge SMARTPHONE BATTERY RUNNING LOW? GET A JOLT FROM THE NEW GENERATION OF OFF-THE-GRID CHARGERS.

BY ALYSSA GIACOBBE // ILLUSTRATION BY CAROLINA MELIS FOR THOSE WHO spend all day talking, texting, snapping photos

of the kids and watching NASCAR on their phones, few things induce anxiety like having a nearly depleted battery and nowhere to charge it. According to a 2009 report by GSMA, a global organization of mobile phone manufacturers and

operators, at any given moment nearly 500 million cell phone users around the world ďŹ nd themselves without access to electricity. With cell usage increasing daily, offgrid chargersâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;devices that convert sun, wind or good old-fashioned human power into an electric chargeâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;are becoming big business.

The best of these new products combine renewable energy technologies with everyday functionality. Voltaicâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s solar backpacks and messenger bags ($249) are made from recycled plastic and convert sunlight into talk time, while Nokiaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bicycle Charger Kit ($40), expected to hit U.S. shelves in time for the holidays, harnesses pedal power to charge your phone while you ride. The fashion world is getting in on it too: Zegna Sportâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ecotech solar-power jacket ($995) can deliver a full charge to phones after a few hours in the sun, and designer Andrew Schneider sells custom solar

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HEM_1110_Tech.indd 1

08/10/2010 09:28

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2010

45

With cell phone usage increasing all over the world, off-grid chargers are becoming big business. bikinis that charge iPods and other small accessories.

Leading the charge, so to speak, is U.K.-based GotWind, which over the last few years has released, among other products, a tent-mounted wind-powered generator and a kinetic dance charger (the harder you dance, the quicker the charge). At this year’s Glastonbury Music Festival, GotWind unleashed a prototype for thermoelectric wellies—rubber boots that source energy from body heat generated by walking; 12 hours of sloshing through

puddles can store an hour of phone time—really.

“People loved the whole concept behind it,” says Dave Pain, managing director. “When they collapsed in their tents, they could plug their phones into their boots and be ready to go the next morning.” The company is in talks with a major shoe brand to produce a line of footwear that combines kinetic and thermoelectric energy to gather and store a charge throughout the day.

If you need further proof that the tyranny of the wall socket is coming to an end, how about this: In June, Apple filed a patent for a solar device that could render its next generation iPhones and iPads solar power–ready. At last, you can go camping and have your NASCAR, too.

At five-foot-three, ALYSSA GIACOBBE would happily pay for thermoelectric platform heels.

THE CENTER FOR REGENERATIVE MEDICINE

A NON-SURGICAL TECHNIQUE TO FIGHT AGAINST ARTHRITIS AND SPORTS INJURIES

Located at 9573 Harding Avenue, Miami Beach, Florida, The Center For Regenerative Medicine includes a team of professionals that are dedicated to improve your quality of life, paving the way to enhance the science of non-surgical orthopedic medicine. World champions, sports legends, professional and amateur athletes, dancers, and people with just plain pain and arthritis go to The Center For Regenerative Medicine for non-surgical orthopedic care. Using the facility to improve their condition, thousands of successful cases have been treated over the past nine years.

HEM_1110_Tech.indd 2

The Knee Diaries: SJ is a 60-year-old male with bone on bone osteoarthritis of the left knee. An X-ray showed arthritis of the knee (X-ray on the left). Patient started receiving treatments at The Center For Regenerative Medicine. Today he is feeling better (X-ray on the right).

This is how it works: The physician introduces Cell Therapy into damaged, arthritic cells by means of a precise injection. This process is followed by infrared laser as well as several other modalities including Collateral Artery Flow Exercises (C.A.F.E.), in order to accelerate the process. Depending on tissue damage, severity of the condition and the size of the joint that needs to be injected, people usually need a series of 1 to 6 treatments to improve. There is usually no down time, and people can go back to their usual activities or work immediately. The treatments can help most musculoskeletal problems such as low back pain, neck pain, knee pain, shoulder pain, whiplash, sciatica, tendinitis, sprain, strains, torn ligaments and cartilage damage.

For more information please visit: www.arthritisusa.net or call (305) 866-8384 International: (305) 866-6995

08/10/2010 09:28

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The Need for Speed ONCE A YEAR, MOTOGP—THE FASTEST MOTORCYCLE RACING CIRCUIT KNOWN TO MAN—ARRIVES IN MONTEREY, CALIFORNIA, DISTURBING THE PEACE IN A BIG WAY. BY JEREMY KORZENIEWSKI // ILLUSTRATION BY BRIAN STAUFFER THE CITY OF MONTEREY is nestled on one

side of placid Monterey Bay, along California’s central coast. On Cannery Row, the idyllic downtown area that got its name from the sardine canning factories that once thrived there (and inspired John Steinbeck’s novel of the same name), tourists amble along the sidewalks leading from the old canneries to the Monterey Bay Aquarium, one of the finest in the

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world. Walking these streets, with the gentle breeze lifting the fog off the water, you’d never suspect that just a few miles away, past the rolling, straw-colored hills in the middle distance, lurks one of America’s wildest, most notorious temples of internal combustion.

Commonly known as Laguna Seca (it’s been called the Mazda Raceway Laguna Seca since the automaker

bought sponsorship rights in 2005), this 2.2-mile track may not be a particularly long or fast circuit, but it is one of the most highly respected—and feared—by drivers and riders alike.

For one weekend every year, the world’s best motorcycle racers arrive for the U.S. Grand Prix, one skirmish in the battle for the MotoGP world championship. Here, the biggest name is Valentino Rossi, a 31-year-old Italian

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who’s won seven world championships.

He broke his tibia in a crash earlier this year, and though he’s made a remarkable return to the saddle, he’s considered out of contention in this year’s race. The new top rider is Jorge Lorenzo, Rossi’s Spanish teammate with Yamaha Fiat. There are also three Americans circling the track: Nicky Hayden, known to his fans as the Kentucky Kid, who won the race at

Laguna Seca in 2005 and 2006 astride a Honda; and two Texans, Ben Spies and Colin Edwards, who ride for the Yamaha factory team.

These riders are only part of the draw for the hundreds of thousands of motorcyclists and MotoGP enthusiasts who descend like pilgrims on two wheels to witness the event.

(So complete is Monterey’s transition from picturesque seaside town to hive

TRACK STAR The many perils of Laguna Seca 1. THE RAINEY CURVE Former motorcycle Grand Prix champ and Monterey native Wayne Rainey christened this turn.

1

2. THE ANDRETTI HAIRPIN This tricky, 190-degree doubleapex hairpin is named after Formula 1 great Mario Andretti.

3

3. THE CORKSCREW Considered among the toughest turns in the world, turns 8 and 8A drop down a twisting blind crest at top speed.

2

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of motorcycle fanatics that the entire downtown area of Cannery Row is shut down to automobile traffic for the weekend.) If you don’t understand the huge draw (and judging by MotoGP’s TV ratings, which are somewhere around professional dart-throwing, you probably don’t), stand beside the motorcycle paddocks the morning of the race. The answer will smack you in the eardrums the first time the riders scream down Rahal Straight.

The fury of internal combustion never sounds so malevolent as it does when a modern MotoGP racebike screams past at full throttle, hitting nearly 20,000 revolutions per minute. It hits you in the chest like a rubber mallet. Then there’s the race hardware itself. Only at one of the 18 MotoGP events around the world will a motorcycle fan be able to see such complex, cutting-edge, expensive and astronomically fast machinery circling such a thrilling racetrack in person.

Today, as the sun climbs into a perfectly blue sky, morning practice ends and spectators gather in the stands for the main race. Lorenzo— presumptive champion of the 2010 season—is the center of attention at Laguna Seca. Crowds gather for hours in the California heat to catch even a fleeting glimpse of the star rider passing on his way to the paddocks in his shellarmored, kangaroo-skin racing suit.

P H O T O G R A P H BY M I R C O L A Z Z A R I G P/G E T T Y I M AG E S

CYCLE OF LIFE Fans of Valentino Rossi

04/10/2010 10:40

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GEARED UP Rizla Suzuki’s

Loris Capirossi

The 23-year-old Lorenzo stops for a moment in the Yamaha Fiat VIP tent to have a quick snack. He is surprisingly slight, even in his armor. Sitting down, he quickly composes a tweet to his nearly 62,000 followers. “Coming to America is very good for MotoGP,” he says. “There is a lot of potential to pick up a large number of fans.”

With that, he makes his way to the paddock, where his gleaming red, white and blue superbike awaits, and starts going over every contour of the track in his mind. What Lorenzo doesn’t say is that Laguna Seca is short but dangerous, a nightmare for most riders. The nastiest section is called The Corkscrew. Over the 450 or so feet required to make it through The Corkscrew’s two turns, the rider drops roughly five and a half stories in elevation. For one sick split second, he is convinced he’s left earth and will potentially never return.

The race that follows is one of the season’s best. Lorenzo, who took pole position in qualifying, wins it by

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three seconds against Australian Casey Stoner, who rides a bright red Ducati.

The final spot on the podium goes to Rossi, who shouldn’t have been on the starting grid at all. A fan favorite no matter what country the MotoGP circus happens to be visiting, Rossi draws howls of adoration as he steps his place on the podium, on crutches.

He announces in the press pool afterward that he’s going to leave his team at the end of the year and form a sort of superteam with American Hayden and Ducati.

The American riders—Hayden, Spies and Edwards—all finish in the top 10, pleasing the fans who then file slowly into parking lots, mount their own steeds and head home.

Lorenzo is happy to have won, but he’s more relieved to have made it through in one piece. “I have some painful memories of this track,” Lorenzo says. “In 2008, I crashed on cold tires in the first corner and injured my feet, which meant no dancing

during the holiday!” The press around him laugh. “Then last year I crashed twice on cold tires—once on the front and once on the rear—but then went on to get pole and finish on the podium.

Laguna is certainly a special place, very different to the rest of the circuits we race at, but I like riding here, especially The Corkscrew.”

He’s only being half sarcastic. Maybe if he hadn’t won he’d be less cocky.

“Really, it’s best to race here in perfect conditions, without injury.

That always helps.”

Autoblog.com’s JEREMY KORZENIEWSKI went through The Corkscrew once—on foot.

NOVEMBER CROSSWORD ANSWERS P H O T O G R A P H BY D O NA L D M I R A L L E /G E T T Y I M AG E S

Over the 450 or so feet required to make it through The Corkscrew, the motorcycle rider loses roughly five and half stories in elevation.

04/10/2010 10:40

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08/10/2010 09:32

industry

54

The Tipping Point GROUPON IS REVOLUTIONIZING E-COMMERCE AS WE KNOW IT.

BY ADAM K. RAYMOND // ILLUSTRATION BY MATTHEW HOLLISTER IT’S JUST PAST SEVEN on a Monday

morning, and 55 bleary-eyed recruits are sitting in a large conference room in a former Montgomery Ward warehouse in Chicago’s River North neighborhood.

As the jittery new hires make small talk about the cat photos that inexplicably line the walls, an unassuming young man in jeans and a tight blue T-shirt walks into the room. His name is Andrew Mason, and he’s the 30-year-

HEM_1110_Industry.indd 1

old founder and CEO of what Forbes has named the fastest-growing web company in history: Groupon.com.

Launched in November 2008, Groupon is on pace to record a billion dollars in sales by the end of this year, reaching that milestone faster than any company before it. (Priceline. com, which hit a billion in two and a half years, is number two.) Groupon achieved its startling success with a

simple business model that combines the two things it’s named after: groups and coupons. Each day, in its 236 markets around the world, Groupon emails a deal to a list of subscribers who have until the end of the day to buy into it. Offering deep discounts on services like massages and helicopter flying lessons, deals only kick in, or “tip,” if enough subscribers agree to buy them. This happens on 98 percent

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08/10/2010 09:44

NOVEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM

56

LET’S MAKE A DEAL Groupon’s 30-year-old CEO

Andrew Mason has a reason to smile.

Unlike Groupon’s deals, however, tips were elusive at The Point. “It was a big, abstract idea that wasn’t getting any traction, so we tried to focus on one specific way that people were using the site,” Mason says. “Group buying seemed the most promising.”

Groupon is to web 2.0 what eBay and Amazon were to web 1.0, says Groupon CEO Andrew Mason. executive has always shown twin creative and entrepreneurial streaks.

At 15, he started a bagel delivery service in his native Pittsburgh. A few years later, he earned a music degree from Northwestern and spent his early 20s trying to make it big with a band he’s described as part punk, part Beatles, part Cat Stevens. When the band failed to break through, he launched a website called The Point in 2007 with a million dollars in angel capital. The point of The Point, which is still active, is to organize groups of people behind specific charitable causes. Once a certain number of users has committed to donating their money or time to an effort, it’s undertaken.

HEM_1110_Industry.indd 2

So he went down to a pizza place in his building and asked the owner if he wanted to participate in a deal.

The deal was for two pizzas—a $20 value—for $10. About 15 people, most of them Mason’s friends, bought that first Groupon, enough to convince him to keep going. He slowly expanded his mailing list and added new businesses.

A few months later, Mason hit send on the deal that made him realize Groupon could be big. “There’s this sensory deprivation tank in Chicago,” he says. “It’s a tub of body-temperature salt water, and you just kind of float in it. We thought it was funny and decided to run a deal for it. Five percent of our mailing list ended up buying it.

It was an eye-opener because it made us realize we could use this thing to expose people to new and unusual things in their own cities.” The deal, as it were, tipped.

In the two years since Groupon’s launch, it has grown from seven employees to 2,200. What began as a service only in Chicago has expanded to 236 cities in 29 countries. The 5,000-person mailing list that saw Groupon’s deal for the saltwater tank has exploded into a 18 million–strong subscriber base as of mid-September, at which point that number was growing at the torrid pace of a million per week.

Even more impressive, back in April, the 17-month-old company raised $135 million in funding, resulting in a $1.35 billion market valuation. The only company to reach $1 billion faster was YouTube, but Groupon did it during the worst recession in recent history.

“We’re the fastest-growing company ever because we’re the first real revolution in e-commerce since the web has matured,” Mason says, adding that Groupon is to web 2.0 what eBay and Amazon were to web 1.0.

One business that has landed a Groupon deal is State Street Barbers,

P H O T O G R A P H BY N OA H B E R G E R / B L O O M B E R G V I A G E T T Y I M AG E S

of Groupon’s deals, leaving everyone happy: The consumer scores a deal, the business attracts new customers, and Groupon makes money—typically 30 to 50 percent of the deal price.

“Welcome to Groupon,” Mason says to the recruits, before launching into a speech about the history and mission of the company. Then he turns to an eight-foot TV screen and introduces a video. “This is really important to what we do here.” He hits play, and a slightly younger, pudgier and scruffier version of himself appears on screen. “Hi, I’m Greg,” it says, “and basically I want to rent you a monkey.” It’s a promotion for “Monkey for a Week,” Groupon’s gag April Fool’s Day deal from this year.

After a minute and a half of absurd dance moves and bad sales pitches, the video ends, the newbies clap, and “the tone for the rest of an employee’s time here is set,” says marketing manager Julie Mossler.

“From the beginning we’ve tried to build this company in a way that entertains us,” Mason says, two weeks after that training session. That’s been a theme throughout his life. From an early age, the tall, baby-faced chief

04/10/2010 10:46

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a small barbershop chain with four locations in Chicago and one in Boston. One day last June, Groupon blasted out a deal offering subscribers a $27 haircut for $13. State Street Barbers netted 2,746 new customers.

Ultimately, Brian Collie, a co-owner and founder of the fledgling shops, brought in only $6.50 for each haircut (the other $6.50 went to Groupon), but he considers it money well spent. “We really wanted to use Groupon to drive trials and to introduce our business to new customers,” Collie says. “It’s a great mechanism for getting people in the door for the first time, and it leaves it up to us to give them a good experience so they’ll come back.”

But while Groupon says every business is vetted to ensure it can absorb the sudden surge in demand and the months of potential losses on deeply discounted goods and services, not all partners have been satisfied with their experiences. Posies Cafe in Portland, Oregon, was nearly sunk by a Groupon promotion launched in March of this year. In September, owner Jessie Burke took to her blog to warn other businesses against working with the company. “After three months of [nearly a thousand] Groupons coming through the door, I started to see the results really hurting us financially,” she wrote. “There came a time when we literally couldn’t make payroll because at that point in time we had lost nearly $8,000 with our Groupon campaign.” Burke ended up having to dip into her savings to cover the shortfall.

Still, Posies Cafe, it seems, remains in the minority. Many other businesses are clamoring to get a Groupon of their own. State Street Barbers, for one, is currently in expansion mode, and as Collie’s shops hit new cities, he knows of at least one way he’ll bring people in.

“We’ll definitely be using Groupon,” he says.

ADAM K. RAYMOND, a writer for MTV’s Clutch blog, wishes he could buy a Groupon for Fruit Gushers.

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Metropolitan Grill SEATTLE, WA.........................206.624.3287 Proprietor: Ron Cohn www.themetropolitangrill.com

Gene & Georgetti CHICAGO, IL.........................312.527.3718 Proprietors: Tony & Marion Durpetti www.geneandgeorgetti.com

St. Elmo Steak House INDIANAPOLIS, IN.................317.635.0636 Proprietors: Steve Huse & Craig Huse www.stelmos.com

III Forks DALLAS, TX............................972.267.1776 Proprietor: Chris Vogeli HOUSTON, TX .......................713-658-9457 Proprietor: Oz Rogers www.iiiforks.com

Manny’s MINNEAPOLIS, MN................612.339.9900 Proprietors: Phil Roberts, Peter Mihajlov & Kevin Kuester www.mannyssteakhouse.com

Grill 225 CHARLESTON, SC................843.266.4222 Proprietor: Nick Palassis Executive Chef: Demetre Castanas www.grill225.com

Benjamin Steak House NEW YORK, NY ..................212.297.9177 Proprietor: Benjamin Prelvukaj Chef: Arturo McLeod www.benjaminsteakhouse.com

McKendrick’s Steak House ATLANTA, GA.......................770.512.8888 Proprietors: Claudia & Doug McKendrick, Rick Crowe www.mckendricks.com

The last of the great independents.

The owner/ operators who give not only fine beef but their hearts as well.

The Independent Retail Cattleman’s Association 557 Mt. Pleasant Road Kingston Springs, TN 37082 info@greatsteakofna.com

Malone’s LEXINGTON, KY....................859.335.6500 Proprietors: Brian McCarty & Bruce Drake www.malonesrestaurant.com

Visit: www.greatsteakofna.com

12/10/2010 14:52

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2010

united.com

A streamlined and enhanced flight search.

united.com Save time and money online.

Have you been to united.com lately? If so, you may have noticed some subtle changes designed to help simplify your travel: a streamlined and enhanced flight search, a fresh look for online check-in and new ways to connect with us through Twitter and Facebook.

But it’s not only these new features that deserve a closer look. Some of the greatest money- and time-saving benefits and applications are the established features that United continues to offer.

For example, at united.com, you’ll never pay booking fees, and if you need to cancel your travel within 24 hours of booking, go ahead — you’ll get a refund with no penalty. The united.com Low Fare Guarantee is a promise that you’ll always find the lowest United fares on united.com. If you do find a lower fare on another website, the difference will be refunded, plus an additional 20% off future travel.

Spend less time at the airport by checking in for your flight at united.com on your computer or mobile device. Plus, when you check your baggage online, you get a discount on checked bag fees. It’s that easy to save.

When you book your travel on united.com, it’s also simple to manage your reservations. Need to change seats or add an upgrade?

Log in to My Reservations and get started. If you have any questions, access United’s customer service section to find answers.

At united.com, we are always working on ways to help you save time and money and enhance your travel experience.

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Find us on Facebook.

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Visit united.com/benefits for more info.

08/10/2010 08:25

food&drink

59

UPPER CRUST

Godey’s Lady’s Book editor Sarah Josepha Hale, rendered in food.

Fowl Play GOOSE, DUCK AND A HEAVENLY CHICKEN PIE—ONE THANKSGIVING PIONEER SUGGESTS SOME FEATHERED FRIENDS FOR YOUR TURKEY.

BY ANDREW BEAHRS // ILLUSTRATION BY JASON MECIER

I’VE GOT TIME to perfect it before Thanksgiving, but the puff pastry for the chicken pie is not even close to thin enough. And I’m still toying with other ingredients—a little country ham, a few sautéed mushrooms. But what I’m leaving out is as important as what’s going in. Forget potatoes and carrots, those drab staples of frozen pot pies.

And while you’re at it, forget turkey.

This is going to be a different kind of holiday. With this one flaky, delicious pie, I’m going to commit the grievous impiety of shaking up my family’s Thanksgiving menu—one of the stodgiest holiday spreads out there.

To be honest, the pie isn’t even my

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idea. I’m just following the lead of the mother of modern Thanksgiving, Sarah Josepha Hale. In her 1827 novel Northwood, Hale described a gut-busting holiday dinner that began with roast turkey, set in a “lordly station,” but also included a sirloin of beef, a leg of pork, a loin of mutton, a goose and a pair of ducklings, along with an array of pickles, preserves, custards, cakes and, of course, pies both sweet and savory. Pumpkin was essential and occupied the “most distinguished niche” among the desserts. But chicken pie was even more important. Hale wrote that it should be “wholly formed of the choicest parts of fowls, enriched and

seasoned with a profusion of butter and pepper and covered with an excellent puff paste.” Gracing the feast’s center, it was “an indispensable part of a good and true Yankee Thanksgiving.”

If that description were Hale’s lone contribution to American culinary tradition, I’d be grateful enough—it did, after all, lead to my learning to make puff pastry. But Hale also waged a long campaign to transform Thanksgiving from a New England tradition occurring anytime in October or November into a national celebration. Every year from 1846 to 1863, Hale wrote editorials in her popular magazine, Godey’s Lady’s Book, urging others to observe the holiday.

11/10/2010 09:27

NOVEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM

food&drink

During that same period, she composed letters to Presidents Polk, Taylor, Fillmore, Pierce, Buchanan and Lincoln.

As the Civil War approached, Hale’s call for a national feast reached fever pitch, and in 1860 she wrote hopefully that a national observance might “be a good omen for the perpetual union of the States.” Poignantly, Lincoln’s proclamation making Thanksgiving a national holiday did not come until three years later—the same year as the Emancipation Proclamation. But the holiday would long outlast the war.

Hale also had strong opinions about what people ought to eat, and Godey’s played a leading role in shaping the traditional Thanksgiving menu. The magazine featured recipes for apple and pumpkin pie, cranberry sauce, roast turkey and potatoes, as well as recipes we rarely see anymore. Turkey was sometimes stuffed with oysters, then steamed; cranberry tarts were as widespread as cranberry sauce.

Just as important, Godey’s published stories about how families weree celebrating. One such article told of the Murrays baking

COVER STORY Sarah Josepha Hale, left, published Thanksgiving recipes in Godey’s Lady’s Book.

pumpkin, apple, grape, mince, lemon, custard and chicken pies in homage to a son serving in the Union army.

“Thankfulness and pies,” the author wrote, “seemed indissolubly connected in Mrs. Murray’s mind.”

Indeed, Hale also wrote that “the size of the chicken pie usually denot[ed] the gratitude of the party who prepare[d] the feast.” Some hosts seem to have been exceedingly grateful. One recipe called for six chickens, with six pounds of flour in i the th he puff pastry. But whether modest or vast, a chicken mo m pie was always opulent. pi p

THANKSGIVING CHICKEN PIE

• 3-4 lb. chicken, cut up • 4 oz. country ham, finely chopped • 1 lb. mushrooms, sliced • 6 tbsp. butter • 4 tbsp. flour • Salt and pepper to taste • Puff pastry

MELT remaining butter in separate saucepan over medium heat; whisk in flour. Little by little, add the stock, whisking continuously. Bring gravy to a boil, then simmer 10 minutes or until it thickens.

PREHEAT oven to 400 degrees.

PICK meat from chicken and tear into

Place chicken in a pot with five cups water, bring to a boil, then cover and simmer until tender and cooked through, about 45 minutes. Remove chicken from broth and let cool. Simmer broth, uncovered, until reduced to three cups.

Meanwhile, sauté ham separately in two tablespoons butter for a few moments. Add mushrooms, and cook until liquid evaporates.

bite-size pieces. Mix in the ham and mushrooms, then add enough gravy to just cover. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

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POUR filling into greased baking dish and

cover with puff pastry. Bake until the pastry is high and flaky and the filling bubbles around the edges, 45 minutes to an hour. Serves six.

My own chicken pie recipe is a proud amalgam. I’ve simmered and deboned the chickens. Godey’s heartily endorsed my filling of ham and mushrooms (sliced hard-boiled eggs were another common addition). The gravy is butter and stock, with just a bit of flour. As I pour it over the filling, I remember the contemporary Ohio cookbook Buckeye Cookery and Practical Housekeeping, which says “there can scarcely be too much gravy.” We’ll find out—there’s enough here to buoy up the puff pastry. At last I slide the pie into a hot oven. After an hour, the crust is high and golden. Gravy bubbles along the edges. When I spoon it out, the crust flakes beautifully, crackling over the choice, Hale-approved chicken.

Not all historic dishes sound as appetizing as the pie. Stewed eels, for instance, probably won’t be set in a lordly station this holiday season, and putting oysters in a steamed turkey sounds like a sad misuse of both oysters and turkey. But any holiday dinner can draw on old American flavors and skills. So this Thanksgiving, consider oysters in the stuffing (in roast turkey, they’re fabulous). Use a handful of cranberries to brighten the gravy; use more in a cranberry tart. And don’t forget the chicken pie.

ANDREW BEAHRS sampled raccoon in Arkansas while writing Twain’s Feast, so he says bring on the stewed eel.

F R O M L E F T: P H O T O G R A P H S BY S H U T T E R S T O C K , BY C O R B I S , BY B E T T M A N N/C O R B I S

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11/10/2010 09:27

BLASTING DESIGN BY RADO

CERAMICA AUTOMATIC DIGITAL / HIGH-TECH CERAMICS / WWW.RADO.COM

No.30473 Rado Watches.indd 1

13/10/2010 14:46

LUXURY WATCH GUIDE | NOVEMBER 2010

HEMISPHERES PROMOTION

Postcards in Time

By Keith W. Strandberg

N

othing can really explain the popularity of watches today. After all, no one needs a watch. Time is everywhere today— on computer screens, on cell phones, in cars, glaring at us from the microwave and other places around the home.

Having a watch is a throwback to another time, when it was a tool, something we needed in our lives.

And to want to own a mechanical watch, when a quartz or an atomic watch is significantly more accurate, is quite a mystery when you think about it.

So, why are watches thriving, when they should have gone the way of the T-Rex? Watches are a way of showing our own particular style and revealing that we value the time. A beautiful wristwatch can remind us of how precious time is and how important it is to cherish every second.

A fine timepiece is an acquired taste— many people don’t understand paying more than $50— but once you discover the art of timekeeping, watches become an essential part of your lifestyle and can turn into quite the addiction.

Luckily, there is truly something for everyone, from the $50 quartz watch to the $2.5 million ultracomplicated timepiece, as you will see in this unique special section dedicated to time.

p062-073 Watches Advertorial Nov10.indd 62

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1 Frederique Constant Ladies Heart Beat 2 Piaget Altiplano 3 TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre 12 Automatic Chronograph 4 Bremont MBII 5 Tissot T-Touch Expert 6 Hamilton Khaki Team Earth Auto

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LUXURY WATCH GUIDE | NOVEMBER 2010

HEMISPHERES PROMOTION

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STARTING POINT You don’t have to spend $20,000 for a great watch. Within the entry level price range ($50 to $1,000) there’s a great selection with high-end features. You can pick up a sturdy, versatile quartz Timex Ironman for $59.95, or a feature-laden Tissot T-Touch Expert for $1,025. In between, you’ll find the automatic mechanical Hamilton. For less than $500, you can buy one of the most sophisticated dive watches on the market: the Citizen Aqualand. Want classic styling? How about Raymond Weil, Victorinox Swiss Army or Longines? You’ll find edgier designs with Technomarine, Luminox, Reactor, Gc or Nixon. You can have it all, even at this price point.

TREND WATCH Looking for a fashionable timepiece? Today’s stylish offerings aren’t just watches with designer names stamped on the faces.

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Trendy timepieces offer cuttingedge original designs, often rich in bright, vivid colors, with discs or dots replacing the more traditional hands. They can be worn alone, or with several other watches, arranged almost like bangles.

MIDDLE CLASS If you’re looking to take a step up to a slightly pricier watch, the midrange of options cost between $1,000 and $10,000. At those prices, the selection increases exponentially. Many of the best-known watchmakers is represented in this category—TAG Heuer, Breitling, Rado, Corum, Cartier, Omega, Movado, IWC, Montblanc, Tutima and Zenith—and aside from an extremely high level of quality, what these prices get you are more sophisticated designs (TAG’s Caliber 1887), more unconventional materials (like Rado’s ceramic watch) and unique features and functions.

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1 Victorinox Airboss Mach 6 and 8 2 Rado V10K 3 Tutima Flieger Chronograph UTC

p062-073 Watches Advertorial Nov10.indd 64

13/10/2010 14:16

chosen by Michael Owen - Football Player Touch the screen to get the ultimate sports watch experience with 15 functions including meteo, altitude difference meter and compass.

IN TOUCH WITH YOUR TIME

E xper ien ce more at ww w.tissot . c h

No.30226 Tissot.indd 1

13/10/2010 15:56

Frédérique Constant and Nina Badric share one passion: Supporting the International Children’s Heart Foundation.

We will donate the cost of a life-saving heart scan for each Frédérique Constant Double Heart watch sold. More information at www.frederique-constant.com

Chocolate Double Heart Beat

Frédérique Constant USA For information and to receive a catalogue, please contact us: 1-877-61-WATCH or info@usa.frederique-constant.com www.frederique-constant.com

No.30471 Frederique Constant.indd 1

13/10/2010 14:44

LUXURY WATCH GUIDE | NOVEMBER 2010

HEMISPHERES PROMOTION

TIME TRAVEL Top-end watch companies frequently collaborate with some of the best automotive and yacht manufacturers in the world to create high-end timepieces. Aston-Martin owners can buy a Jaeger-LeCoultre watch that locks and unlocks their cars. Norton Motorcycles and Jaguar are working with English brand Bremont, while Blancpain is affiliated with Lamborghini, Cabestan with Ferrari, Girard-Perregaux with MV Agusta, and Bulova with Harley-Davidson. BRM uses engine forms in its watches, while Richard Mille takes his design cues from racing cars and the new U.S. brand Equipe draws its inspiration from American muscle cars.

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PLAY CLOCKS Gone are the days when a sports watch was a plastic eyesore you put away as soon as you finished your jog. Today, multi-purpose watches can easily pull double duty at work or in the gym, and there are dedicated, sport-specific timepieces for scuba diving, trekking, flying and more. Watch companies have formed partnerships with major sports events and athletes, from the Olympics (Omega) to MotoGP (Tissot), Tiger Woods (TAG Heuer) to Roger Federer (Rolex), Danica Patrick (Tissot) to Rafael Nadal (Richard Mille), Eli Manning and Paula Creamer (Citizen), Laird Hamilton (Chanel) and New England Patriots’ quarterback Tom Brady (Movado).

1 Danica Patrick, Tissot Ambassador 2 Jaeger-LeCoultre AMVOX 3 Equipe Balljoint 4 Luminox Deep Dive 500

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LUXURY WATCH GUIDE | NOVEMBER 2010

HEMISPHERES PROMOTION

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IT’S COMPLICATED A “complication” is a watch that boasts anything more than the customary hour hand, minute hand and second hand. Common complications include annual and perpetual calendars, chronographs, world timers, tourbillons, minute repeaters, features that track the phases of the moon and any combination of the above. The more complicated the movement, the more skill it takes to manufacture. A grand complication can have over 1,000 individual parts. The tourbillon, which was developed in the 18th century to counter the effects of gravity on a pocket watch, is widely considered the most difficult complication, but the minute repeater, which chimes the hours, quarter hours and minutes on demand, is one of the most beautiful.

TIME LIMIT For some, exclusivity is key. One-ofa-kind watches and limited editions by manufacturers like Cartier and Vacheron Constantin can cost as much as $500,000 and take more than a year to deliver. And there are some companies, like Jean Dunand, whose prices start at $300,000,

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and Artya, which strikes its watch cases with lightning. (Artya also sells the Black Belt Watch—but only to certified black belts in the martial arts.) Newer boutique watchmakers such as Hautlence, Urwerk, HD3, Peter Speake-Marin, MB&F, Romain Jerome are dedicated to turning out small quantities of highly individual watches.

CRAFT WORK Today, a number of centuries-old artisanal processes—like enamel, engraving, miniature painting and more—are making a comeback, with more consumers placing an emphasis on craft. Van Cleef & Arpels has led the way with its poetic complications: watches that combine amazing movements with incredible artistry on the dial. One of the most interesting is the Le Pont des Amoureux watch, which features a beautiful enamel dial on which a bridge is applied. On the bridge, two engraved figures, a man and a woman, move towards each other, meeting with a kiss at midnight. Patek Philippe also has a line of limited editions that feature enamel and miniature painting, as does Vacheron Constantin, Bovet and Jaeger-LeCoultre.

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With all these choices and a continued emphasis on quality across the board, it’s a wonderful time to be looking for a new timepiece.

TIME TO BUY When you find the watch you want, the next step is finding the right place to buy it. The most important consideration is that you buy from an authorized retailer, whether online or in a brick and mortar store.

Authorized retailers are supported by the brands they sell, and the brands will honor the warranties of watches sold through their network.

Plus you can be assured that the watch is the real thing, not counterfeit or worse, stolen.

How can you tell if a retailer is authorized? Check the website of the brand you’d like to buy for a list of authorized sellers, or just ask at the store. Once you find a trusted, authorized retailer, you can buy your new watch with peace of mind.

1 Patek Philippe Celestial Grand Complication 2 Van Cleef & Arpels Le Pont des Amoureux 3 Ball, Engineer Hydrocarbon Spacemaster Orbital

p062-073 Watches Advertorial Nov10.indd 68

13/10/2010 17:47

U-2/DLC

*WZV QV \PM IQZ LMÅVML QV \PM KWKSXQ\ KZMI\ML QV -VOTIVL ZMITQ[ML QV ;_Q\bMZTIVL" *ZMUWV\ UMKPIVQKIT KPZWVWUM\MZ[ IZM UILM Ja XZWNM[[QWVIT[ \W M`IK\QVO [\IVLIZL[ NWZ \PM ZM[\ WN ][ <PM *ZMUWV\ = <M[\ML \W N\ IVL °+ QV \PM TIJWZI\WZa ?WZV _Q\P KWVÅLMVKM WV UQ[[QWV[

www.bremont.com

No.30433 Bremont Watch.indd 1

12/10/2010 13:34

We brought you the WORLD Now it’s time for something GRAND

Big Time GRAND

Big Time WORLD

57mm

57mm

Put it on and see why We’re the watch the world wears visit us at www.CurtisAndCoWatches.com Phone: (619) 851-1882

3200 Las Vegas Boulevard South, Ste. 1165 Las Vegas, Nevada 89109 Ph (702) 737-7118 Fx (702) 737-7119

No.30414 Curtis.indd 1

Isaac Jewelers at Kierland Commons 15044 N. Scottsdale Road, Suite 130 Scottsdale, AZ 85254 Ph: (480) 941-9090

4121 Hillsboro Rd - Green Hills TN 18265 Biscayne Blvd - Aventura FL TN (615) 724-5464 FL (305) 935-4900

Newport Jewelers 2633 West Coast Highway Newport Beach, CA 92663 Ph: (949) 515-5858

12/10/2010 13:31

LUXURY WATCH GUIDE | NOVEMBER 2010

HEMISPHERES PROMOTION

Jean Dunand Palace

Not too long ago, the mechanical watch was dead. When the quartz watch was introduced in the 1970s, everyone thought that this had to be the death knell for the mechanical watch. After all, the quartz watch was cheaper and more accurate, the latest cutting-edge technology.

Logic dictates that there’s no way that people will pay more money for a watch that is less accurate. After all, no one in the music industry has gone back to eight track tapes now that digital files are the standard.

Watches, however, are different from just about any product on the face of the planet.

They are one of the few things that you wear on your body, in intimate contact with your skin.

Watches are so...personal.

For men, especially, watches are just about the only things they can wear to express their style, their panache, their personality. Watches are cool because they can be both subtle and bold, understated and flashy, elegant and casual, all at the same time.

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LUXURY WATCH GUIDE | NOVEMBER 2010

HEMISPHERES PROMOTION

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THE MAGIC OF A MECHANICAL WATCH There is something special about a mechanical watch on your wrist. A mechanical watch is something that has to be created, crafted and has had life breathed into it by a skilled watchmaker. Mechanical watches cannot be made on an assembly line, they have to, at one point or another, regardless of how much they cost, be attended to by a watchmaker.

Once the watch is purchased, it is kept alive by its owner, wearing and winding it every day.

No one really knows why mechanical watches are in such demand right now, but they are

2

here to stay. They are magic on the wrist, living machines that are amazing in their complexity and their number of moving parts. Take for example the Zenith El Primero movement, one of the most famous movements in the industry. This movement beats 36,000 times an hour, which is 864,000 times a day, 25,920,000 times a month, 311,040,000 times a year.

The mechanical watch is truly a marvel of miniature engineering and a phenomenal accomplishment of the human race.

Available now, on a wrist near you. What are you waiting for?

1 Breitling Chronomat BR01 2 Bovet Tourbillon Ottanta by Pininfarina 3 Jean Dunand Tourbillon Orbital 4 An exploded view of the Zenith El Primero Chronograph movement

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HOW A MECHANICAL WATCH WORKS Like a rubber band powered balsawood airplane, a watch movement is at its most basic level about taking stored energy and translating that into timekeeping. The watchâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s energy is stored in the mainspring and as it unwinds, the other parts of the watch control that power and make it possible to display the time.

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Every timepiece has four requirements: 1. A power source 2. A way of transmitting power 3. A way of regulating power 4. A way of indicating power so you can tell the time.

For mechanical watches, the mainspringâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s stored power is transmitted through a series of gears called the â&#x20AC;&#x153;gear train.â&#x20AC;? The balance wheel, which is the part of the watch that turns back and forth at a changeable rate, is where the power is regulated or controlled. The indication is done by the hands: hours, minutes, seconds.

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p062-073 Watches Advertorial Nov10.indd 73

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13/10/2010 14:16

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BALL Watch USA

www.ballwatch.com

Tel:727-896-4278

(see web site for complete list of Authorized BALL dealers)

Windsor Fine Jewelers Augusta, GA

No.00000 Ball Watch.indd 1

Old Northeast Jewelers St. Pete & Tampa, FL

Schiffman’s Greensboro & Winston-Salem, NC

Schwarzschild Jewelers Richmond, VA

Salkin’s Jewel Case Freehold, NJ

13/10/2010 16:49

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2010

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artifact

FEATURES 76

86

90

96

THE RIGHT STUFF Our global guide to holiday gift-giving.

By Jacqueline Detwiler

THE HEMI Q&A Leadership tips from Yahoo! CEO Carol Bartz.

By David Carr

THE LONG WALK A British ex-paratrooper circles the world on foot.

By Grant Stoddard

THREE PERFECT DAYS: HO CHI MINH CITY Exploring the rebuilt cultural capital of Vietnam.

By Matthew Thompson

“Like Vietnam’s famous sweet and high-octane coffee, Ho Chi Minh City is a jolt to the system.” P.

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PHOTOGRAPH BY CLAIRE BENOIST

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04/10/2010 10:51

THE RIGHT STUFF An international guide to finding the perfect holiday present.

BY JACQUELINE DETWILER // PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN LAWTON

2.

1.

1. HAPPY FEET (Canada)

2. HARD TO CRACK

3. ANIMAL STYLE (U.S.A.)

4. WATCH IT (Japan)

Giving Dad handmade leather slippers says “I care about your feet.” That’s much nicer than “I care about your golf game,” or “You need a new dress shirt.” $70 /// thepyjamastore.com

(Germany)

More festive than a Christmas sweater and substantially less cheesy, MelanyBe’s elk necklace screams “holiday office party.” $207 /// melanybe.com

Why do you need Citizen’s EcoDrive Blue Angels Skyhawk A-T watch? Because it keeps time in 43 world cities, that’s why. (And because Eli Manning has one.) $699 /// citizenwatch.com

HEM_1110_GiftGuide.indd 1

Rimowa’s Topas Business Trolley protects against humidity, so your clothes can handle Miami in July—even if you can’t. $405 /// rimowa.de

04/10/2010 12:03

7.

6.

5.

3.

4.

5. THICK SKIN (Italy)

6. PRETTY GOOD (Uganda)

7. IN THE TRENCHES

The buttery Tuscan leather of Floto’s Venezia travel tote ages like a saddle. Just don’t tell friends you got them saddlebags.

They may not appreciate it. $349 /// flotoimports.com

It’s hard to imagine a more wholesome gift than Bead for Life’s Mandaala necklaces. Made from recycled paper, their sale supports Ugandan women. $25 /// beadforlifestore.org

Adding a cowl neck was the only way to make the trench coat more stylish. Go figure—Allsaints Spitalfields thought of it first. $390 /// us.allsaints.com

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(England)

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GIFT GUIDE 2010

4.

2.

1.

5.

3.

1. THAT’S THE STUFF (U.S.A.)

2. MAGIC WORDS (Germany)

3. B IS FOR BIOENGINEERING (U.S.A.)

Hansa’s plush yak is so realistic, you may find yourself trying to feed him. But be honest, do you know what yaks eat? $86 /// sweetwilliamltd.com

Staring at the clock used to mean you were waiting for something.

Now it means you’re fascinated by QlockTwo’s nonnumerical time telling. $995 /// qlocktwo.com

A tot who knows K is for potassium might take over the world, making Xylocopa’s Young Mad Scientist’s First Alphabet Blocks a smart gift. $39 /// xylocopa.com

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4. GOOD CALL (Sweden) Part of Sony Ericsson’s Greenheart program, the Naite does everything your smart phone can do but in recycled plastic and with a lot less energy. $160 /// sonyericsson.com

04/10/2010 12:03

6.

7.

5. MAID TO ORDER (U.S.A.)

6. IT’S GOT GAME (Brazil)

7. SO FLY (France)

Undeterred by that other vacuuming robot, Neato Robotics designed a floor cleaner that uses laser mapping. Here’s hoping their next project involves sharks. $400 /// neatorobotics.com

You might think there’s no way to improve a game as old as backgammon. Dos Reis disagrees: Its set has a silent playing field, leather cups and precision dice. $750 /// zontikgames.com

Not only does the Parrot AR Drone run on commands from an iPhone, it can set up a Wi-Fi hotspot for multiplayer battles.

Remote controls are so 1980. $300 /// brookstone.com

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GIFT GUIDE 2010

4.

1.

3.

2.

1. ON BOARD (U.S.A.)

2. THE EYES HAVE IT

3. EASY RIDER (Switzerland)

4. SNOW PROBLEM (Italy)

DC Men’s Snowboarding Status boot is the company’s most supportive—ideal for boarders who have weak ankles, enjoy hard landings or just need a hug. $350 /// snow.dcshoes.com

(Sweden)

Heidiskis’ All-Mountain PRO skis carve so effortlessly because they are 35 percent stiffer than the original version. That means you won’t be. $1,640 /// heidiskis.com

Six crampons and a heel lifter help Baldas Lys snowshoes adhere to steep slopes, because you want to go snowshoeing, not snow-slipping. $159 /// mountaingear.com

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Because the lens is on the outside of the frame, POC’s Cornea goggles enlarge skiers’ fields of vision. Watch for snow bunnies. $150 /// pocsports.com

04/10/2010 12:04

6.

5.

7.

5. LIKE A DREAM (France)

6. HOUSE IN THE HILLS

Would more people become mountaineers if sleeping outside were cozy? With the Bloody Mary sleeping bag, Valandre intends to find out. $489 /// moosejaw.com

(Sweden)

(Norway)

When forester Bo Hilleberg met his wife on the slopes, he knew his future was in the outdoors. No wonder his tents are so comfy. $765 /// hilleberg.com

Norway’s Mount Fagernes inspired the windproofing and warmth of Norrona’s narvik jacket, so it should do for your commute. $500 /// norrona.com

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7. BRING THE HEAT

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3.

2.

4.

1.

1. TAKE A SEAT (England)

2. HOT SHOTS (Austria)

3. WEB SURFER (Australia)

4. WET AND WILD (Japan)

A little larger than a briefcase, the Picnic at Ascot suitcase unfolds into a table with four seats.

You’ll never have to worry about grass stains again. $150 ///

A reproduction of a classic ’60s camera, Lomography’s Diana F+ takes dreamy stills that will make your friends look like they live in a Belvedere ad. Take that, DSLRs. $95 /// microsites.lomography.com

Hey, Spicoli, Mr. Hand knows you’re on Surfline instead of paying attention in class. Might as well do it on the Billabong Sony Vaio and score cool points. $450 /// sonystyle.com

Sanyo’s Xacti hi-def video camera can capture any “indoor or outdoor” adventure in up to 10 feet of water. If you have 10 feet of water indoors, please be careful. $350 /// us.sanyo.com

robertsanddore.homestead.com

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GIFT GUIDE 2010

5.

6.

5. GET UP, STAND UP (U.S.A.)

6. THE WAY THINGS UNFOLD (Taiwan)

Standing up on a paddleboard isn’t easy, but Ocean Kayak’s Nalu paddleboard is maneuverable when you’re seated. $749 /// oceankayak.com

Topeaka casts aside concerns about bike commuting with the Jango Flik. All you have to do is figure out how to fold it. $1,295 /// jangobikes.com

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GIFT GUIDE 2010

1.

2.

3.

1. CLEAN CUT (Switzerland)

2. EGG PLANT (Israel)

3. SOUND OFF (Netherlands)

4. FIRST SERVED

What could Swiss Army Knife maker Victorinox craft if they concentrated on a single knife at a time? The supersharp zirconium oxide ceramic collection. $110-120 /// swissarmy.com

When you serve Galilee Osetra Caviar, friends can accuse you of being extravagant, but not wasteful: It comes from sustainably raised Russian osetra sturgeon. $125/ounce /// caviar.com

The curved shape of Philips’ Fidelio iPod/iPhone dock doesn’t just look pretty, it mimics the acoustics of a live performance.

That said, it’s awfully pretty. $200 /// store.philips.com

Handmade out of rosewood, these Twig Servers will make your salads look all natural—even if you put American cheese in them. $64 /// globaltable.com

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(Thailand)

04/10/2010 12:05

5.

7.

6.

4.

5. UNDER PRESSURE

6. FOREVER PLAID

7. SHINE ON (Sweden)

(Denmark)

(Argentina)

The worst thing about a garlic press is cleaning the tiny holes.

Eva Solo has a better idea: easyto-wash slits. Vampires beware. $90 /// evasolo.com

You haven’t had too much malbec: For his Origo Mix series, Alfredo Häberli added verticals to his iconic striped bowls. $12-$28 ///

Apart from the colorful glow it creates, the best part about the Shine Candle Holder is that it protects a flame from moths, wind and enthusiastic storytellers. $22 /// globaltable.com

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sfmoma.stores.yahoo.net

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04/10/2010 12:21

THE HEMI Q&A: CAROL BARTZ

BY

DAVID CARR

The Yahoo! CEO is famous for her combativeness, but sometimes a healthy blend of threats and encouragement is the only way to make something growâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;just ask her rubber tree.

NOVE MBE 2010 R

ILLUST R AT I O N BY

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IT’S A CUTE CONVENTION OF THE CEO INTERVIEW that the subject always tries to seem as accommodating and low-to-the-ground as possible. A powerful man—and it is almost always a man—receives the reporter in his office and makes a big show of getting up from behind an ostentatious desk to fetch coffee. Then, once he leaves his office to get it, he has to ask someone where the pot is actually located.

Yahoo! chief executive Carol Bartz does not go through the kabuki of fetching coffee. But then she’s not like a lot of chief executives. Sitting at a table at Yahoo!’s sprawling campus in Silicon Valley, behind a towering bouquet of flowers sent in anticipation of her 62nd birthday (a gesture from an underling that she dismisses as a bit much), Bartz isn’t worried about establishing her average-person credentials with empty stagecraft. The former Wisconsin farm girl more than accomplishes that with her words—direct, sometimes profane, always matter-of-fact.

Bartz was named chief of Yahoo! in January 2009 after a 17-year run at the helm of Autodesk, a leading creator of computer-aided design software.

HEMISPHERES: So, do you run a media company or a technology Since then, she’s had her every move company? What is Yahoo!, exactly? scrutinized by Silicon Valley’s voracious BARTZ: It’s a very important tech company, and our technoltech press as she fights to lead the ogy happens to power content. Just as other tech companies company—a dominant early web player make chips or phones, we power content. You don’t support established in 1994—to greater relevance. a hundred billion emails a month and billions of ads without having an amazing array of technology.

Today’s Yahoo! is more streamlined, HEMISPHERES: Do you ever pull up to this giant campus, with fewer deadweight subsidiaries with all these people working here, and worry that somebody (RIP, GeoCities) and a workforce focused else should be in charge? less on search and more on delivering BARTZ: Of course. I pull up saying, “Wow, there are more original content daily to its estimated people in this building than there were in my high school— 600 million users. or in my whole hometown.” If somebody asks me, “Why are Bartz gave herself a B-minus for her you perfect for the job?” I tell them that there are a lot first year on the job, but she’s confident of people who would be perfect for this job. I feel really that the company’s reach and growing lucky. I feel energized by it. inventory of professionally created HEMISPHERES: Are you surprised by the amount of press interest content will make it a sticky place for and second-guessing you’ve been subjected to? millions of new users. When she took BARTZ: Not surprised, flabbergasted. Flabbergasted. I over, Yahoo! was often derided by the expected a spike of interest to begin with, because I’m a technoscenti as hopelessly behind the woman, this is an internet business, and Yahoo! was a bit times. That was then. “I think we got old of a piñata at the time. But there were all these stories that for a while,” she says. “We’re working kept coming and coming. It’s still surprising, but frankly hard to get that old attitude back.”

I don’t read much of it anymore.

HEMISPHERES: So why is Yahoo! such an obsession for the press?

BARTZ: I don’t know for sure. I guess because it changes

so frequently—is the press going to write about steel mills?—and I think some of it is because there’s a youth culture around the industry. In general, though, I love it. I’m in the middle of Silicon Valley. Just look at the fun that’s going on now: Google and Apple and Adobe and Apple and Microsoft and holy bananas—the plates are just flying around!

It’s a great time.

HEMISPHERES: Let’s talk about your managerial philosophy.

You’ve described it as “fail-fast-forward.” What is that exactly? I think I have the first two parts mastered…

BARTZ: Fail-fast-forward means you’d better be doing enough that you have some failures. In other words, you are taking risks. People talk about taking a calculated risk, but by definition that’s not a risk.

HEMISPHERES: Running Yahoo! in this kind of environment sounds pretty complicated, but then you’ve been working at difficult things since you were very young.

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THE HEM I Q&A

“On the farm, you just did what had to be done.

You never got overly dramatic about anything.”

F R O M L E F T: P H O T O G R A P H S BY R A M I N TA L A I E /C O R B I S , C O U R T E SY O F CA R O L BA R T Z , BY DA N I E L AC K E R / B L O O M B E R G /G E T T Y I M AG E S

WEB-SLINGER // Above, Carol Bartz posing with her grandmother in 1973; right, calling to a colleague after ringing the opening bell at the NASDAQ exchange in 2009; opposite, working the crowd at the 2010 TechCrunch Disrupt conference in New York City.

BARTZ: My mom died when I was eight, so when I was twelve and my brother was six, we went to live with my grandma on a farm in Wisconsin, outside of Alma. It was a milk farm, plus corn, soybeans, all the crops you have. We had chickens and pigs, too, so we got every smell imaginable.

On the farm, you just do what needs to be done. You know what a machine shed is?

HEMISPHERES: I lived on a milk farm in Wisconsin when I went to college—I know what a machine shed is.

BARTZ: Good. One day my brother and I were in the machine shed and there was a snake up on the rafter, a rattlesnake. We ran and found my grandma and said, “There’s a snake in the machine shed!” She didn’t say anything, just came out, grabbed a shovel, flipped it off the rafters, and after it hit the ground, she cut its head off with the shovel.

Then she said, “You could have done that. Next time, just do it.” It was like, okay, no big deal. You just never got overly dramatic or traumatized by anything.

HEMISPHERES: Losing your mother at a young age is about the worst thing that could happen to anybody, right?

BARTZ: Everybody seems so indulged now. Growing up in the upper Midwest, life just went on. There wasn’t any feeling sorry for yourself, because you just had to keep going. I certainly miss my mother, but I never did go for the life-isn’tfair stuff. It wasn’t just some thumb of God coming down on me. My grandparents did very well by me.

HEMISPHERES: And your grandmother is still alive?

BARTZ: Yep. That same old grandma called me in her nineties and said, “What about that stock price?” I told her I get enough of that. It’s a big responsibility, but I enjoy responsibility. I actually like tough, hairy problems. It’s stimulating to me.

HEM_1110_Profile_Bartz.indd 4

HEMISPHERES: But eventually you do have to unplug from the

grid and go home. What do you do when you’re not running an internet giant?

BARTZ: When I want to unwind, I like cheap sauvignon blanc. It has to be cheap, though. A screwtop. I like sauvignon blanc in that sort of ten- to thirteen-dollar range. I don’t want it sitting aging. I don’t want it touching oak. I want it smashed and put in a bottle.

HEMISPHERES: What else?

BARTZ: I have a huge garden. It probably has eighteen varieties of heirloom tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, and in the winter, squash, snap beans and fava beans. Plus a lot of flowers. It’s a big garden. That’s what I do. I’m a lousy golfer, but I still play.

HEMISPHERES: Are you the kind of gardener who talks to your plants?

BARTZ: Oh, I always have.

HEMISPHERES: In the form of a lecture? Is it kind of nurturing?

Or more cussing?

BARTZ: My favorite story about talking to a plant is when I went to work at 3M in Chicago, and I had this plant, a rubber tree. It had about three leaves for a whole year.

I finally walked up to that plant and I said, “You better grow or I’m ripping your leaves off.” I am here to tell you that about three weeks later it had two new leaves.

HEMISPHERES: So you threatened the plant into thriving?

BARTZ: I threatened, then nurtured. Whatever it takes to get things growing.

DAVID CARR writes about media and culture for The New York

Times. He wouldn’t touch a rattlesnake with a 10-foot pole.

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L O N G

04/10/2010 12:10

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MONTH 2010

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IN 1 9 98, A YO U N G B RIT ISH EX- PA R AT RO O P ER WA S AT T H E S O U T H ER N TIP OF CHILE WHE N HE D EC ID E D TO H EA D H O M E TO EN G L A N D — O N FO OT. T H IRTE E N YE A RS L AT E R, HE ’S ST IL L WA L K I N G . C A N A N Y T H I N G STO P K A R L BUS H BY?

BY GRANT STODDARD • PHOTOGRAPHS BY HOLLY WILMETH

W A L K

KARL BUSHBY IS MELAQUE’S MOST CURIOUS FULL-TIME RESIDENT. This small town on Mexico’s Costa Alegre has been the former British paratrooper’s base of operations for three years. Every morning he sits in an indoor-outdoor café two blocks from the ocean and nurses an orange juice, making use of a weak wireless signal from somewhere nearby.

Karl opens his battered four-year-old Toughbook computer and checks his inbox, hoping to find an email telling him he can get back on track to become the first man to walk around the world with unbroken footsteps. Bushby was in his late 20s when he began this journey. If and when he arrives at his hometown of Hull, in the north of England, he’ll be in his late 40s to early 50s.

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NOVEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2010

BOOTS ON THE GROUND At right, Karl Bushby taking notes at his temporary home in Mexico; previous spread, Bushby trekking in Melaque, Mexico, 2010.

“It’s quite a long walk,” the 41-year-old says mildly. “But I’ve made it my mission, and, frankly, failure isn’t an option.”

And yet, failure would seem assured. Look on a map for an overland route from the southernmost tip of South America to the British Isles, and you’ll quickly come to the conclusion that there’s only one remotely conceivable option. Look a little closer and you’ll see that in addition to the incredible distance, geopolitical hurdles, arduous terrain and climatic extremes presented by this path, there are three points that seem to render the journey an abject impossibility. The first is the Darien Gap, a dangerous jungle that connects South and Central America. Then there’s the Bering Strait, an angry 58-mile expanse of water separating Alaska from Russia.

The third is the English Channel, a choppy, slate-gray 21-mile stretch that also happens to be the one of the world’s busiest shipping lanes. “If it were simple or easy,” says Bushby, “someone would have done it before.”

Bushby took the journey’s first step on November 1, 1998, in Punta Arenas, Chile. He had a few hundred dollars in his pocket and a satellite phone, laptop and solar-powered charger donated by the British Army, from which he’d recently been honorably discharged. He bought a used pushcart, which he rigged for rough roads and nicknamed The Beast. His father, a former British Special Forces operative, helped Bushby with logistics, monitoring his progress, sending supplies and logging the photographs and fastidious diary entries Bushby would send home. His mother began a collection for Bushby among her coworkers at a cocoa factory in Hull.

Initially, Bushby set a target pace of 20 miles per day, but the beginning of the trip was beset with problems. The Beast fell apart on the first day, and his toenails popped off in the first week. After a while, he found his stride. Villagers were charmed by his skinny frame, piercing blue eyes, chinlength blond hair and the funny-looking reconstituted cart filled with gear he was pushing. They often stopped and asked if he was Kurt Cobain and, if so, why was he selling ice cream along the Pan-American Highway?

In 2001, Bushby came to the most dangerous part of the journey, in Colombia, when he reached the Darien Gap. A jungle dense with jaguars, snakes and armed revolutionaries, the Darien allows few foreigners to pass through. So Bushby dyed his hair black and disguised himself as a Colombian drifter. At one point, he camouflaged himself under a mat of branches and floated along the crocodile-infested Rio Atrato for four days, boats—some carrying soldiers—passing just feet from his head.

When he got to Mexico, Bushby bought another cart (Beast II) and headed up Mexico’s Pacific coast. He made it onto U.S. soil in 2002 and ran into a new set of problems, including the searing 120-degree heat of the Mojave Desert

R1_HEM_1110_FEATURE_Walker.indd 4

and less-than-amused Arizona state troopers, who ordered him to pull Beast II off the interstate. After Bushby followed the Rockies up to Montana, his cart—carrying all his possessions—was stolen from the parking lot of a bar near the Canadian border during a New Year’s Eve celebration.

“My gear, my passport, photographs, annotated maps, details of every spot that I’d pitched my tent—all gone,” he says. “Not a great way to ring in 2003.”

At Whitehorse in the Yukon, with winter setting in, Bushby began walking due west along the Alaskan Highway, swapping his cart for a sled in Fairbanks, Alaska. After over six years of heading north, he was now more or less oriented toward home.

“Weather conditions and hauling the sled meant that I was only making half my normal distances, sometimes less,” he recalls. “And at the end of hundreds of miles of that, I was going to attempt something that everyone said would certainly kill me.” Crossing the Bering Strait.

HERE, YOU’D BE FORGIVEN for asking a simple question: Why is Karl Bushby doing this? He left England for Chile when he was nearly 30, secure in the knowledge he wouldn’t see his home country’s shores for at least 14 years. Most perplexing, he left an eight-year-old son, Adam, behind. “Most of my family and friends were absolutely mystified,” he says. “So was I.” Seventeen-thousand miles later, he’s got a clearer idea.

He’d always wanted to be a career soldier, but after several dreary postings in Belfast, he realized that because of severe dyslexia, he’d never rise above the rank of corporal. Then he went through an acrimonious divorce. Feeling stuck, Bushby figured he needed to exorcise his demons, even if that meant spending many years in the wilderness and jeopardizing his relationship with his young son.

He figured he might die trying to cross the Bering Strait, so he called his mother, who flew to Alaska to meet with him and brought Bushby’s son. “It was odd meeting this young man,” says Bushby. “He was a baby when I last saw him, and now he was on his way to being a man. It was strained. We didn’t

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FINISH

THE ROUTE Bushby set out from Punta Arenas and crossed the deadly Bering Strait before stopping. Total distance: 36,000 miles.

PROJECTED COMPLETED

94

really know what to say to one another. But the thinking was that if the worst was to happen, at least we’d have met.”

During the last ice age, a land bridge connected Alaska and Siberia. Nowadays the strait is a churning mess of ice floes and inhospitably cold water that hides hungry apex predators such as orcas and polar bears. When Bushby set off, conditions for making the crossing were as good as they’d been in living memory. The skies were clear, the mid-March temperatures cold but not excessively so.

R1_HEM_1110_FEATURE_Walker.indd 5

START: NOV 1998

He recruited French adventurer Dimitri Kieffer, figuring the company might make the difference between life and death.

After a few hours of walking on relatively flat ice anchored to the shore, they came across the fast-moving conveyer belt of sea ice and swam a short distance to get on board. “Some of these chunks of ice were the size and shape of trucks and houses,” he explains. “We were swimming across spans of water in immersion suits, then having to climb up sheer ten-foot walls of ice, hauling a four-hundred-pound sled behind us.”

04/10/2010 12:11

PRINCE OF STRIDES Top row, from left: Patagonia, 1999; Ecuador, 2000; Colombia, 2001; Panama, 2001; Mexico, 2001.

Bottom row: Utah, 2002; Alberta, Canada, 2003; with Dimitri Kieffer, Alaska 2006; the Bering Strait, 2007; Alaska, 2007.

Increasingly erratic currents took the adventurers north of the Arctic Circle, then east, south and west before depositing them within sight of the small Russian village of Uelen, in the Chukotka Autonomous Okrug 13 days later. “I called my dad from the satellite phone to tell him that we’d spotted land,” he recalls. “Father doesn’t like to count his chickens, so he told me to call him back when I had dirt in my hands. The next day I rang and said two words: ‘Terra firma.’ This was the hardest part of the journey, and we’d done it. I was headed west and going home.”

The euphoria lasted only a few hours. Bushby was quickly apprehended by the authorities and detained for 58 days before being released. He narrowly avoided a ban from Russia, which would have killed the expedition.

When Bushby finally resumed his trip in the Russian far north, he was hampered by visa problems. “I can be in the country for ninety days, then I have to leave for ninety days,” he explains. “That’s inconvenient enough, but traveling in Chukotka is temperature-dependent. I can only walk in the winter months. For the first two-thousand miles there’s no road. In the spring, everything melts and turns to swamp and rivers.”

After three attempts inside Russia, Bushby was nearly out of money. He scraped together what he had left and caught a flight to Mexico, where he will stay until he secures an

R1_HEM_1110_FEATURE_Walker.indd 6

extended visa. “I was looking for somewhere cheap where I could lie low. When I got here to Melaque, I remembered passing through six years earlier, so I stopped.”

With little money for even local travel, Bushby’s world has been reduced from a 36,000-mile path encompassing four continents, 25 countries, a frozen sea, six deserts and seven mountain ranges to the four blocks between this little café and the messy, dimly lit, stiflingly hot apartment he’s currently looking after. One morning, he gets an email from a producer in Hollywood who offers to fly him to Los Angeles to discuss the possibility of buying the rights for a documentary or perhaps a feature. “If this works out, I could be back in Russia in January,” he says excitedly.

He didn’t make it. En route, he was detained at the airport in Mexico City and held for several hours, until his connecting flight to Los Angeles had departed. “Oh, well,” he writes, philosophically. “Such is the game.” Bushby arrived in L.A. 10 hours behind schedule, yet he managed to have some “interesting chats” in the time he was there. The fate of the expedition remains unclear, but after four years of maddening difficulties, there’s a glimmer of hope. For Karl Bushby, a glimmer is all that’s needed.

GRANT STODDARD wrote “Finder’s Keepers,” about the search for lost silver in New York Harbor, in the October 2009 issue of Hemispheres.

95

04/10/2010 12:11

Three Perfect Days

HO CHI MINH CITY After a half-century marred by war and economic stagnation, Ho Chi Minh City—a.k.a. Saigon—has come into its own with a tireless energy few places can match. (Just watch out for those scooters.)

BY MATTHEW THOMPSON // PHOTOGRAPHS BY MICHAEL TUREK

98 DAY ONE

100 DAY TWO

103 DAY THREE

Soaking up some history

Biking along the Mekong

Catching a puppet show

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2010

97

SPIRIT AND SONG Saigon Opera House; opposite, Thien Hau Pagoda.

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NOVEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM

98

LIKE VIETNAM’S FAMOUS high-octane coffee, Ho Chi Minh City is a jolt to the system. Between the chaotic dance of the motor scooters hurtling through the streets, the businessmen in bespoke suits downing bowls of pho, the old women shouldering pots of coconuts on balanced poles, and the ubiquitous vendors peddling an irresistible array of Vietnamese street food, the sheer energy of the place is intoxicating.

Though long a major port of call for the Mekong Delta’s rice trade, a recent warming of relations with the West has led Ho Chi Minh City out of its postwar doldrums into a blooming economic renaissance. Now the city (call it Saigon—most natives do) is transforming its skyline and streetscape with a puzzlework of new high-rises and luxe shops. An average day in modern Saigon might involve sipping artisanal beer at a Czech brewpub, haggling over the price of silk scarves at a market and white-knuckling it on a crosstown scooter-taxi ride en route to April 30 Park—all punctuated with regular doses of sweet iced coffee. You’ll need the kick to keep up with the pace of life in this frenetic city.

DAY ONE Waking in the Caravelle Hotel (1)—a favorite hangout of reporters during the Vietnam War—you can practically feel history seeping from the walls. Sitting by your room’s high, north-facing window, you feast on complimentary rambutans and look down on the Saigon Opera House, a pink and white French Colonial cream puff of a building. Now put your shoes on; it’s time for a stroll.

Exiting the Caravelle, walk toward City Hall, a dramatic mini-Versailles. Beyond it is Pasteur, a street that will lead you to the Ho Chi Minh City Museum (2), a gray mansion with a vintage American fighter jet out front. Though not Saigon’s most famous repository of history (that honor goes to the War Remnants Museum), the City Museum is the best, offering extensive exhibits featuring traditional instruments and costumes, along with a collection of war memorabilia that places special emphasis on the personal items the soldiers carried. Who knew the Viet Cong had accordions?

For lunch, head up Pasteur to Quan An Ngon (3), a restaurant that assembles a dozen of the finest local food vendors under one roof, with each chef serving one or two signature dishes. Grab a table on the patio and order the flaky banh xeo—savory pancakes stuffed with fatty pork and shrimp.

Done eating, you continue up Pasteur to Cong Vien 30-4 (4). There, past the crowds of NICK ROSS // EDITOR-IN-CHIEF chatting teenagers and old men playing xiangqi—a OF THE WORD: HO CHI MINH CITY // “My favorite place is board game similar to chess—you’ll see the the alley off of Hai Ba Trung strikingly modern façade of the Reunification where a number of my favorite Palace (5). During the 1960s and ’70s, it served restaurants are: Vasco’s Hoa as the seat of the South Vietnamese government.

Tuc, The Refinery, Vino and Jasper’s. I love getting a bottle Today it’s a time capsule of and a monument to the of wine on the terrace of one Communists’ victory. Join a tour of the ’60s-era of the restaurants, chatting green-carpeted meeting rooms on the main floor with friends and seeing who I run into.” and the mazelike warren of high command offices

1

MYTH SAIGON A terra-cotta dragon sculpture at the Ho Chi Minh City Museum; top, Ngon restaurant; opposite, a mobile fish-and-turtle vendor.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER JAMES FIELD

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3PD HO CHI MINH CITY

100

MOTO MADNESS

Since chaos reigns on the streets of Saigon, travelers would be wise to watch their backs. Scooters will routinely hurtle down the wrong side of the street, take to the sidewalks or cut across three lanes of traffic to make a right turn. Still, that doesn’t mean you can’t get around without some semblance of safety. When crossing the street, don’t panic when a taxi starts bearing down on you. Keep moving forward; the driver sees you and is already making a move to avoid you—stopping would only lead to trouble. While we don’t recommend trying to drive, taxis are safe and won’t gouge you if you stick with reputable companies like Mai Linh or Vinasun.

Those feeling a bit more adventurous might want to try a scooter taxi. They’re an invigorating way to see the city and, for better or worse, a great way to rub elbows with the locals.

HEM_1110_3PD_HoChiMin.indd 5

in the basement, eerily kept exactly as they were when the North Vietnamese tanks smashed through the gates in 1975.

By now, Vietnam’s tropical heat and humidity have left you feeling poached. Regain your cool at Soi Da Café (6), a two-story coffee house with rattan couches, bamboo gardens and koi ponds. Order a café sua da (iced espresso with milk) and relax for a bit. When your drink arrives, leave the stainless steel drip filter atop your espresso cup for five minutes and then pour it over the provided glass of ice. Stir briefly and enjoy.

For dinner, head to Tú Xuong and try out Com Nieu Sai Gon (7). A local favorite, Com Nieu has gone upscale in recent years, adding dark wood furniture and a plant-entwined entryway. Order their specialty, com dap, a rice cake cooked in a sealed clay pot that must be smashed open to serve. Don’t be surprised when the waiter tosses yours into the air; that’s just a way to make sure there are no shards left in it. Order the xiu mai—a delicious stew of pork meatballs, tomatoes, onions and cilantro—to go with it.

After dinner, walk off a few calories heading south on Le Quy Don to the Centec Tower and the bar/restaurant Shri (8), whose rooftop terrace provides a panoramic view of the city. Over a red wine nightcap, let the distant blur of traffic hypnotize you until your eyes get heavy. It’s time to turn in.

2

DAY TWO Wake up early and dress light—today you’re going biking. Catch a

cab down to Bach Dang Pier, where you’ll meet a speedboat from Saigon River Express. It’ll carry you deep into the Mekong Delta, slaloming through water hyacinths, wood rice boats and traditional fishing vessels with red-rimmed eyes painted on the bow.

Once you disembark, you rendezvous with Vietnam Bike Tours, whose experienced guides outfit you with a mountain bike and lead you on a winding 10-mile trip to My Tho (1) along the Mekong River. As you travel, you’ll pass yellowgreen rice paddies dotted with shrines and family tombs. Wave back at the people who whoop at you; that’s a Vietnamese greeting, not a catcall.

After the long ride, enjoy a banh mi sandwich on the boat back. Ask the captain to take you to Thao Dien Village Hotel (2) across the river from the city center, and take advantage of the resort’s day spa for a much-deserved hot stone massage.

Limber and relaxed, you hop a boat back across the river and hail a scooter taxi up to the Emperor Jade Pagoda (3) on Mai Thi Luu, arguably the city’s most interesting Taoist/Buddhist temple. Ask the driver to wait for you, or it’ll be a long walk home.

Once you’ve checked out the turtle pond (a symbol of good luck) in the tree-lined courtyard, buy some incense and light it by the giant wooden statue of the God of the Heavens inside.

Time for dinner. Ask your scooter driver to take you over to An Vien (4) on Hai Ba Trung.

Look for the octagonal entryway tucked down an alley by Dien Bien Phu. The restaurant, built in a former French villa, has an Old World elegance: Red velvet curtains, oriental rugs and vintage leather couches dot the dimly lit interior. Avail yourself of their fantastic wine list. For dinner, TOON // SCOOTER TAXI DRIVER // stuff yourself with spicy river fish soup, eel rolls, “When I get a little time fried sticky rice cakes with pork and morning off, I take my family to Vung glory stems with roasted garlic. Try not to Tau Beach to go swimming.

Splash splash!” nod off on the scooter ride home.

05/10/2010 15:48

GO EAST, YOUNG MAN

Opposite, Thao Bien Spa Hotel; clockwise from top left, a cyclist on the move; grilled pork, sour soup with ďŹ sh, and vegetables from Com Nieu Sai Gon; a fruit vendor; Thien Hau Pagoda.

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102

2

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103

BOARDING PASS

Fly United to Ho Chi Minh City and be ready to experience a destination with nonstop energy. From ancient pagodas to sleek modern skyscrapers, this city is a high-octane blend of commerce and culture.

NATIVE TONGUE

Vietnam has a seemingly infinite number of great dishes. Here are some of the most popular: BANH XEO—a chewy crêpe containing shrimp, sprouts and pork, torn into pieces and wrapped in lettuce leaves.

BANH MI—a spicy sandwich on a baguette with pickled carrots, daikon radish, cucumbers, cilantro and a variety of meat fillings.

BO LA LOT—fried beef

dumplings wrapped in betel leaves, often served with vermicelli noodles, mint leaves and rice paper wraps, and dunked into spicy fish sauce.

BUN BO HUE—a lemongrass-scented soup with shredded beef.

COFFEE AND COMMERCE Left, relaxing at Soi Da Cafe; right, hunting for bargains at

Cholon’s Binh Tay Market.

DAY THREE Waking up ravenous after yesterday’s adventures, you stumble down to the lobby of the Caravelle and hail a cab to Binh Tay Market (1) in Cholon, the city’s Chinese district. There, in its two-story indoor and outdoor maze of stalls, you’ll find all manner of dry goods, fruit, fish, pots, pans, wicker baskets and neon plastic toys. Head toward the back, where you’ll find an alley of food stands. Order a bowl of pho—traditionally served for breakfast—seasoning it with fresh lime, basil and sprouts. Chase that with a bag of fruit from a nearby stall: Mangosteen, rambutan, dragon fruit and pineapple all fit the bill.

Walk out to the street and flag down a cyclo, a three-wheeled bicycle with a seat perched on the front. Make sure you pick one with a shade on top: That equatorial sun takes no prisoners. Tell the driver that you’re looking to take a ride through Cholon, and negotiate a price—hopefully no more than five dollars American. In Cholon, watch fabric merchants

3

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CAN CHUA—sour and

spicy noodle soup, with fish or shrimp.

GOI—Vietnamese

salad in a sour sauce, served with a variety of toppings.

PHO—noodle and beef

broth soup with a variety of meats.

RAO MUONG XAO—

morning glory stem and roasted garlic stir fry.

05/10/2010 15:49

SWITCH TO DECAF Above, tea from An Vien restaurant; middle, a red-eyed fishing boat; top, Temple Club restaurant.

roll out bolts of brightly patterned silk and sniff the mellow aromas wafting out of teahouses. Be sure to stop by Thien Hau Pagoda (2), one of the oldest temples in the city. Marvel at the intricate bas-reliefs in green and blue that frame the building’s roof. Release a finch from the cage out front for good luck before you go.

For lunch, head to Temple Club (3), an Indochine-style Vietnamese restaurant with elegant brick and wood decor. Grab a seat near the front window—shaded with antique scrollwork shutters—and place your order: bo la lot, canh chua tom and mien xao cua (fried beef wrapped in betel leaves, sour shrimp soup, and vermicelli noodles with shredded crab, respectively).

Take a cab down to the Golden Dragon Water Puppet Theatre (4), where you’ll be watching a performance of one of Vietnam’s oldest cultural institutions.

Dating back to the 11th century, water puppetry is performed in waist-deep water with lacquered wooden figures controlled via submerged poles and wires. Most performances depict traditional Vietnamese folk tales with accompanying live music. Don’t worry if you’re in the dark about the specifics of what’s being said; the stories and humor are universal.

After the show, hop a scooter back to District 10 for one last Vietnamese treat: barbecue. Roll up to Lang Nuong Nam Bo (5).

It’ll take a moment to orient yourself amid the overhanging roofs, awnings, courtyards, terraces, birthday parties, cordial students and sprinting waiters. Take a deep breath, order a Tiger Beer and savor the scent of crackling pigskin and open wood fires. Order goat breast with okra and eggplant—and ask to cook it at your table. They’ll bring you a mini-grill and coach you on laying strips of marinated meat for optimal charring. Still not full? Order a piglet—but be warned: It can feed a family of four.

Really, the scene here is a lot like Ho Chi Minh City: loud and jubilant, packed with activity, bursting with good food, imbued THANH HUONG // TOUR GUIDE with a certain something that will stick to // “When I’ve got some time you—like the scent of woodsmoke on a pair of off in the city, I love to stop at the cafés and drink coffee. jeans—for long after you’ve left.

New Hampshire–based writer MATTHEW THOMPSON never looks when he crosses the street.

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My favorites are the outdoor ones by Cong Vien 30-4 on a Sunday morning. Everyone’s so relaxed!”

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THOSE THREE PERFECT DAYS DAY ONE (1) Caravelle Hotel 19 Lam Son Square; Tel: 08-3823-4999 (2) Ho Chi Minh City Museum 65 Ly Tu Trong; Tel: 08-829-9741 (3) Quan An Ngon 160 Pasteur St.; Tel: 08-3825-7179 (4) Cong Vien 30-4 Pasteur, Phuong Ben Nghé (5) Reunification Palace Nguyen Thi Minh Khai and Nam Ky Khoi Nghia (6) Soi Da Café 6B Ngô Thoi Nhiem; Tel: 08-930-5665 (7) Com Nieu Sai Gon 6C Tú Xuong; Tel: 08-393-0688 (8) Shri 272-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai DAY TWO (1) My Tho Mekong Delta (2) Thao Dien Village Hotel 195 Nguyen Van Huong St.; Tel: 083744-6457 (3) Emperor Jade Pagoda 73 Mai Thi Luu St. (4) An Vien 178 A Hai Ba Trung St.; Tel. 08-3824-3877 DAY THREE (1) Binh Tay Market 57A Tháp Muoi; Tel: 08-857-1512 (2) Thien Hau Pagoda Nguyen Trãi, Phuong 11 (3) Temple Club 29-31 Tôn That Thiep; Tel: 08-3829-9244 (4) Golden Dragon Water Puppet Theatre 55 B Nguyen Thi Minh Khai St.; Tel. 84-8827-2653 (5) Lang Nuong Nam Bo 285/C145 Cach Mang Thang 8 St.; Tel: 08-3863-2309

HEM_1110_3PD_HoChiMin.indd 10

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2010

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13/10/2010 12:30

Stylish.

Thoughtful. Contemporary. Intelligent.

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travel

• Reflect full-service bar and gourmet bistro • Refresh state-of-the-art fitness center • Refill 24/7 sundry shop

Hotel Locations • Akron-Canton Airport, OH • Appleton, WI • Baton Rouge/I-10 College Drive, LA • Bloomington/Mall of America, MN • Boise Airport, ID • Columbus/ Polaris, OH

• Denver Airport/ Aurora, CO • Fort Collins, CO • Fort Lauderdale/ Dania Beach, FL • Green Bay, WI • Indianapolis Airport, IN • Indianapolis/ Noblesville, IN

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• Roanoke, VA • San Antonio Airport, TX • Savannah Airport, GA • Traverse City, MI • Washington, PA

• Pueblo, CO • Raleigh-Durham Airport, NC

C A MBRIASUITES.COM • 8 8 8 .8 C A MBRI A ©2010 Choice Hotels International, Inc. All rights reserved.

No.30434_Choice_Hotels.indd 1

08/10/2010 12:00

NOVEMBER 2010

The stars of Ramona and Beezus play nice.

ENTERTAINMENT

INFORMATION

122 Films & Television

132 United Destinations

128 Audio Programming 136 Terminal Diagrams 144 Crossword

141 Alliances & Partnerships

146 Sudoku

143 Customs & Immigration 154 Food & Beverages

HEM_1110_Play_Cover.indd 1

12/10/2010 14:13

FILM & TELEVISION FILMS ARE SHOWN ONLY on flights of three hours or longer. Movies available on most 747, 757, 767, 777, A319 and A320 aircraft flights.

Schedules and selections are subject to change. International Language Tracks / (S) Películas están disponsibles en Español en todas las rutas domesticas en el canal 10.

WESTBOUND

EASTBOUND FILM

TELEVISION

FILM

TELEVISION

NOVEMBER 1-15

NOVEMBER 1-15

The Office [T]

NORTH AMERICA

Friday Night Lights [T]

NOVEMBER 1-15

Sports Jobs with Junior Seau

Flipped [T]

NOVEMBER 16-30

NOVEMBER 16-30 Ramona and Beezus

Parks and Recreation [T] Inside Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade The Middle

TELEVISION

FILM

NOVEMBER 1-15 Ramona and Beezus

HAWAII

NOVEMBER 16-30

House [T] The Simpsons [T]

The Sorcerer’s Apprentice [T]

NOVEMBER 16-30

NOVEMBER 16-30

The Big Bang Theory [T]

Despicable Me

The Good Guys [T] Friends

FILM

TELEVISION

NOVEMBER 1-15

NOVEMBER 1-15

Parks and Recreation [T]

The Big Bang Theory [T]

Inside Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade The Middle

Flipped [T]

NOVEMBER 16-30

Both films available on flights between Denver/Chicago and Hawaii

30 Rock [T] NOVEMBER 1-15

The Office [T] Friday Night Lights [T]

NOVEMBER 1-15

The Good Guys [T]

Despicable Me

Friends

NOVEMBER 16-30

NOVEMBER 16-30

The Sorcerer’s Apprentice [T]

30 Rock [T]

Both films available on flights

House [T]

between Denver/Chicago and Hawaii

The Simpsons [T]

Sports Jobs with Junior Seau

SOUTHBOUND

FILM

TELEVISION

FILM

NORTHBOUND

TELEVISION

NOVEMBER 1-15

MEXICO & CARIBBEAN

NOVEMBER 1-15

Parks and Recreation [T]

The Office [T]

House [T] NOVEMBER 1-15

Sports Jobs with Junior Seau TELEVISION

NOVEMBER 1-15

Friday Night Lights [T] Accidentally on Purpose

The Sorcerer’s Apprentice [T]

Frasier

Flipped [T]

NOVEMBER 16-30

NOVEMBER 16-30

NOVEMBER 16-30

NOVEMBER 16-30

Despicable Me

30 Rock [T]

Ramona and Beezus

The Big Bang Theory [T]

Monk

Brothers & Sisters

The Simpsons [T]

Biography

Friends

GET IN TOUCH What do you think of our programming?

We’re open to suggestions. Please send them to play@united.com or visit united.com/play.

R1_HEM_1110_Film-TV.indd 1

12/10/2010 12:10

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2010

MOST FILMS HAVE BEEN EDITED FOR AIRLINE USE. However, customer discretion is still advised.

Content guidelines are provided as a courtesy to our customers in choosing whether to view a film.

CUSTOMERS ARE WELCOME TO VIEW their own video entertainment aboard a United aircraft as long as they are able to show the programming has an MPAA rating of “R” or less.

RAMONA AND BEEZUS

1 hr.

43 min.

(S) Spanish (G) German (C) Chinese (J) Japanese

123

[V] Violence [S] Sexual Situations [T] Adult Themes

FLIPPED [T]

1 hr.

30 min.

“[Ramona is] a rambunctious, bright-eyed mighty mouse with a kaleidoscopic wardrobe and an imagination to match.”—Houston Chronicle

“A pleasantly nostalgic family movie featuring strong performances by its young actors. ”—USA Today

The adventures of young Ramona Quimby come to life in this all-new film based on the best-selling books by Beverly Cleary. Ramona’s vivid imagination, boundless energy and accident-prone antics help her when she and her family face their biggest challenge.

FEATURING Joey King, Selena Gomez DIRECTED BY Elizabeth Allen

When second-graders Bryce and Juli first meet, Juli knows it’s love. But Bryce isn’t so sure. Girl-phobic Bryce does everything he can to keep his outspoken wannabe girlfriend at arm’s length...for the next six years, which isn’t easy because they go to the same school and live across the street from each other. But if Juli finally looks away, will it be Bryce’s turn to be dazzled?

FEATURING Madeline Carroll, Callan McAuliffe DIRECTED BY Rob Reiner

DESPICABLE ME

THE SORCERER’S APPRENTICE [T]

1 hr.

35 min.

“It looks so stylish that thinking about its plot is strictly optional.”

—Wall Street Journal In this computer-animated adventure, Steve Carrell is the voice of a deplorable villain known as Groo whose plot to steal the moon is thwarted by a trio of orphan girls who temporarily come under his care and won’t leave.

Academy Award-winner Julie Andrews provides the voice of his nasty mother who eggs him on.

VOICES BY Steve Carell, Jason Segel, Russell Brand DIRECTED BY Pierre Coffin

R1_HEM_1110_Film-TV.indd 2

1 hr.

49 min.

“An enjoyable action-fantasy adventure with a sparky script.”—The Guardian Balthazar Blake is a master sorcerer in modern-day Manhattan trying to defend the city from his arch-nemesis, Maxim Horvath. Balthazar can’t do it alone, so he recruits Dave Stutler, a seemingly average guy who demonstrates hidden potential, as his reluctant protégé.

FEATURING Nicolas Cage, Jay Baruchel DIRECTED BY Jon Turteltaub

12/10/2010 12:11

FILM & TELEVISION TELEVISION DESCRIPTIONS The views contained in the video content are not necessarily those of United.

THE GOOD GUYS [T]

SPORTS JOBS WITH JUNIOR SEAU

INSIDE MACY’S THANKSGIVING DAY PARADE

Dan’s methods are deemed unlawful and a drug dealer he busted is set free. With few resources, Dan vows to take him down using only the money in his pocket: Three dollars and 52 cents.

Junior hits the pavement hard when he’s thrust into the fast and heavy world of racing. He joins one of the leading pit crews in the game as an official team member on race day.

It was once a simple walk down Broadway, but it has become an American institution watched by millions.

Trace the evolution of the parade from horse-drawn floats to one of the most sophisticated and high-tech extravaganzas in the world.

HOUSE [T]

THE SIMPSONS [T]

FRIDAY NIGHT LIGHTS [T]

When a man in a wheelchair who fainted while crossing a street arrives at the hospital, House tells the 10 remaining candidates to divide themselves into teams. The one that diagnoses the man properly won’t be fired.

Homer gets a job teaching a marriage & parenting class at the Springfield Adult Education Annex. But Marge is not pleased to find out he is revealing their personal secrets to his students.

Old flames begin to spark again between Julie and Matt. Tami makes an attempt to play nice with Katie McCoy and her family. Tim and Billy dream up new money-making schemes, and Coach Taylor begins to question his job.

ELECTRONIC EQUIPMENT/PERSONAL DEVICES United Airlines strives to make its customer experience safe and comfortable and accordingly has issued the following in regard to the use of electronic equipment/personal devices onboard its aircraft. However, the following is not a contract and does not create any legal rights or obligations. Certain electronic devices may not be used on our planes for safety reasons. Such devices may cause electromagnetic interference with cockpit navigation or communications systems during ground operations and while the aircraft is flying below 10,000 feet. However, when an aircraft is traveling above 10,000 feet (normally about 10 minutes after takeoff), passengers can use many of the devices listed. Hearing aids, heart pacemakers and watches are acceptable at all times.

These electronic devices can be used in the cabin, but may not be used during takeoff and landing: Calculators; handheld computer games; shavers; portable CD and tape players; laptop computers/ accessory printers/tape drives; portable VCRs/video players These electronic devices cannot be used on the airplane at any time: Cellular phones (cellular phones maybe used on the plane at the gate before the aircraft door is closed or at captain’s discretion when the plane is away from the gate and on the ground); televisions; AM/FM transmitters-receivers; remote-controlled toys In addition, United Airlines has an onboard photography and video policy. Customers who bring personal audio and video equipment onboard may only use these items with headsets. Noise-canceling headsets may be activated. The use of still and video cameras, film or digital, including any cellular or other devices that have this capability, is permitted only for recording of personal events. However, photography, audio or video recording of other customers without their express prior consent is strictly prohibited. Also, unauthorized photography, audio or video recording of airline personnel, aircraft equipment or procedures is always prohibited. Any voice, audio, video or other photography (motion or still), recording or transmission while on any United Airlines aircraft is strictly prohibited, except to the extent specifically permitted by United Airlines. UAL Corporation October 2009.

R1_HEM_1110_Film-TV.indd 3

12/10/2010 12:11

We fly around the earth and know how precious it is. We take actions to protect it.

At United, we’re taking action to care for our planet. In the air we’ve changed how we plan our flights and fly our planes, saving over 1 billion pounds of fuel since 2004. Behind the scenes, we’re recycling 25 million cans and 6 million plastic bottles. On the ground we’re doing our part to advance bio and synthetic fuels as viable, future alternatives for aviation. And, our employees volunteer to create lasting environmental improvements in our communities. We’re making a difference today, and setting the course for tomorrow. To learn more, visit united.com/responsibility.

©2010 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

No.00000 House Ad (Every_Action_Counts).indd 1

07/10/2010 10:56

FILM & TELEVISION B747 MAINSCREEN PROGRAMMING INTERNATIONAL LANGUAGE TRACKS (G) Synchronisierte Versionen finden Sie auf Kanal 2 und 3 (wenn verfügbar). (J) 日本語の吹き替えは チャンネル2番および３番でお聴きいただけます。（一部英語音声のみとなります。） (C) 如果可用，在第2频道和第3频道将提供语言录音 (K) 채널 2,3에서 더빙버전이 제공됩니다

FROM U.S.

GERMANY

The Sorcerer’s Apprentice [T] 1 hr. 49 min.

Despicable Me 1 hr. 35 min.

TV 2 hrs Cyrus [T] 1 hr. 31 min.

Dinner for Schmucks [T] 1 hr. 50 min.

TV 2 hrs

FROM U.S.

AUSTRALIA

JAPAN & SOUTH KOREA *Japan flights only

CHINA & HONG KONG

Flipped [T] 1 hr. 30 min.

TV 2 hrs.

Ramona and Beezus 1 hr. 43 min.

Toy Story 3 1 hr. 43 min.

TV 2 hrs.

Grown Ups [T] 1 hr. 40 min.

TV 2 hrs.

Flipped [T] 1 hr. 30 min.

Ramona and Beezus 1 hr. 43 min.

TV 2 hrs.

Toy Story 3 1 hr. 43 min.

Grown Ups [T] 1 hr. 40 min.

TV 2 hrs.

TO U.S.

The Sorcerer’s Apprentice [T] 1 hr. 49 min.

Despicable Me 1 hr. 35 min.

Cyrus [T] 1 hr. 31 min.

TV 2 hrs.

Dinner for Schmucks [T] 1 hr. 50 min.

TV 4 hrs.

FROM U.S.

TO U.S.

Flipped [T] 1 hr. 30 min.

Ramona and Beezus 1 hr. 43 min.

TV 2 hrs.

Toy Story 3 1 hr. 43 min.

TV* 2 hrs.

Grown Ups [T] 1 hr. 40 min.

TV 2 hrs.

The Sorcerer’s Apprentice [T] 1 hr. 49 min.

Despicable Me 1 hr. 35 min.

TV 2 hrs.

Cyrus [T] 1 hr. 31 min.

Dinner for Schmucks [T] 1 hr. 50 min.

TV 2 hrs.

FROM U.S.

TO U.S.

Flipped [T] 1 hr. 30 min.

Ramona and Beezus 1 hr. 43 min.

TV 2 hrs.

Toy Story 3 1 hr. 43 min.

Grown Ups [T] 1 hr. 40 min.

TV 4 hrs.

The Sorcerer’s Apprentice [T] 1 hr. 49 min.

Despicable Me 1 hr. 35 min.

TV 2 hrs.

Cyrus [T] 1 hr. 31 min.

Dinner for Schmucks [T] 1 hr. 50 min.

TV 4 hrs.

FROM JAPAN

THAILAND & TAIWAN

TO U.S.

Letters to Juliet [T] 1 hr. 46 min.

Toy Story 3* [T] 1 hr. 43 min.

TV 4 hrs.

TO JAPAN

The Karate Kid 2 hrs.

Cyrus* [T] 1 hr. 31 min.

TV 4 hrs.

*Thailand flights only

FROM HONG KONG

SINGAPORE

VIETNAM

R1_HEM_1110_Film-TV.indd 5

TO HONG KONG

Letters to Juliet [T] 1 hr. 46 min.

TV 4 hrs.

The Karate Kid 2 hrs TV 4 hrs.

TV 4 hrs.

TV 4 hrs.

12/10/2010 12:11

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2010

(S) Spanish (G) German (C) Chinese (J) Japanese

THE KARATE KID [T]

2 hrs.

LETTERS TO JULIET[T]

1 hr.

46 min.

127

[V] Violence [S] Sexual Situations [T] Adult Themes

CYRUS [T]

1 hr.

31 min.

The franchise waxes on. When a boy from Detroit has trouble with a bully at his new Chinese school, his only recourse is to learn karate.

FEATURING Jaden Smith, Jackie Chan DIRECTED BY Harald Zwart

Looking for love. An American on vacation in Italy, discovers a letter asking Juliet, who was supposed to have met Romeo there, for romantic advice.

FEATURING Amanda Seyfried, Marcia DeBonis DIRECTED BY Gary Winick

Mama’s boy. John has all but given up on romance when he meets Molly. Their relationship takes off... until John meets the other man in her life: her son.

FEATURING John C. Reilly, Jonah Hill, Marisa Tomei DIRECTED BY Jay Duplass, Mark Duplass

DINNER FOR SCHMUCKS [T]

GROWN UPS [T]

TOY STORY 3

1 hr.

50 min.

A fool’s errand. Tim is a rising executive who “succeeds” in finding the perfect guest—IRS employee Barry—for his boss’s monthly event, a socalled “dinner for idiots.”

FEATURING Steve Carell, Paul Rudd, Zach Galifianakis DIRECTED BY Jay Roach

1 hr.

40 min.

Child’s play. Five still-immature friends and former basketball teammates reunite to honor the passing of their childhood basketball coach.

FEATURING Adam Sandler, Kevin James, Chris Rock DIRECTED BY Dennis Dugan

1 hr.

43 min.

No toy left behind. When Woody, Buzz and the gang are left at Sunnyside Daycare Center at the mercy of a horde of sticky-fingered kids, they’re left with no choice but to plot their escape.

VOICES BY Tom Hanks, Tim Allen, Joan Cusack DIRECTED BY Lee Unkrich

YOUR COMPLETE GUIDE TO MOVIES, TV SHOWS, MUSIC AND PREMIUM SEAT COMFORT ABOARD UNITED

NOVEMBER 2010

PLAY IF YOUR AIRCRAFT IS EQUIPPED with in-seat video, refer to the separate Play guide located in your seat pocket.

SISTER ACT Ramona and Beezus stars Joey King and Selena Gomez play nice...for now.

R1_Play_1110_p01_Cover.indd 1

R1_HEM_1110_Film-TV.indd 6

Digital media loading occurs between the 25th and 5th of each month. As a result, please understand if your flight features a different lineup before and after the start of each month.

OCTOBER MOVIES

DECEMBER MOVIES

Cyrus Dinner for Schmucks Grown Ups Toy Story 3

Get Low The Switch Eat Pray Love Charlie St. Cloud

11/10/2010 15:38

12/10/2010 12:11

AUDIO PROGRAMMING

The latest top selling songs from Zune.

The best of current adult pop.

The greatest classic rock hits.

The latest and greatest alternative hits.

The best of current and classic country.

3OH!3

With their distinctive, distorted, electronic-pop music, 3OH!3 has been taking the world by storm. Check out their chart topping track “My First Kiss’”(featuring Ke$ha) on the Top Songs In Zune channel.

The latest in Indie and Modern Rock.

The best of pop music from around the world.

The best from the world The best in music of chamber music. performed on the piano.

The best from the world The latest and top of classical music. selling music for kids.

The best of contemporary jazz.

The best of atmospheric The latest in electronic and new age music. and dance music.

The best from the world of opera.

The latest and classics from movie soundtracks.

The best in comedy.

Usher

The latest and greatest in world music.

UnitedProgramGuide_November.indd 2

The latest and greatest in R&B and soul.

No other artist has had more Hot 100 No.1 songs. The five-time Grammy-winning singer continues to make history and raise the bar. Listen to “OMG” and “DJ Got Us Fallin’ In Love” on the Contemporary Pop channel.

12/10/2010 12:21

Zune and United bring you a sample of the music available to Zune users - across PCs, media players and more. Learn more about Zune music and video entertainment at www.zune.net/united.

on

Find your aircraft model on the grid below to find the Zune channel that’s right for you.

CHANNEL

777 (2-CABIN)

SELECT A320

A319 & A320

747

757/767 (2-CABIN)

1 movie (english)

movie (english)

movie (english)

movie (english)

movie (english)

2 top songs in zune

top songs in zune

top songs in zune

movie (dubbed)

top songs in zune

3 contemporary pop

contemporary pop

contemporary pop

movie (dubbed)

contemporary pop

4 classical

classical

classical

classical

classical

5 new wave

new wave

new wave

new wave

new wave

6 country

country

unavailable

country

country

7 classic rock

classic rock

unavailable

classic rock

classic rock

8 kids

electronic/dance

unavailable

contemporary pop

kids

9 flight deck

flight deck

flight deck

contemporary jazz/flight deck

contemporary jazz/flight deck

10 indie/modern rock

movie (dubbed)

movie (dubbed)

top songs in zune

movie (dubbed)

11 world pop

kids

indie/modern rock

kids

12 new age

new age

new age

new age

13 r&b/soul

contemporary jazz

country

chamber music

14 electronic/dance

indie/modern rock

classic rock

world music

15 chamber music

chamber music

kids

16 piano jazz 17 opera 18 soundtracks 19 comedy

flight deck Listen for your flight number to hear live communication between the flight deck and FAA air traffic control. This feature, unique to United, may not be available on all flights, including oceanic crossings with limited audio communication. Available at your captain’s discretion.

zune pass

Like what you hear? Get all the music offered here today plus unlimited access to millions of other songs with a Zune® Pass music subscription.* Visit zune.net/zunepass to try it free for 14-days. *Zune Pass is a monthly music subscription, available in the United States. Available content may vary over time.

UnitedProgramGuide_November.indd 3

12/10/2010 12:21

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07/10/2010 11:05

ROUTE MAPS NORTH AMERICAN CITIES Route lines do not reflect actual flight path

United/United Express Route Continental/Continental Express/ Continental Connection Route

Cities served Cities served by select airline partners Time zone boundary

Continental Seasonal Service United Hub (Red All Caps) Continental Hub (Blue All Caps)

CITY CITY

Cullaton Lake Ennadai Lake Prince Rupert

to Anchorage

Smithers Terrace

Sand Spit

Fort St. John Fort McMurray

Prince George Grande Prairie

C A N A DA

Pacific Time Zone 4:00 BRITISH C O LU M B I A

Mountain Time Zone 5:00

Kamloops

Vancouver

Nanaimo

Central Time Zone 6:00

A L B E R TA

Kelowna Penticton

Victoria

Edmonton

Calgary

MANITOBA

S A S K AT C H E WA N

Saskatoon

Seattle Moses Lake

WA S H I N G T O N

Castlegar Cranbrook Lethbridge Medicine Hat Spokane Kalispell

Regina Winnipeg

Portland

Pasco

Missoula

Eugene

Redmond

Eureka

I DA H O

OREGON

Medford

Bozeman

Billings

Cody/ Yellowstone Idaho Falls

Sidney

Miles City

Dickinson Bismarck Fargo

WI

Rock Springs

Minneapo E

Pierre Huron

Riverton

Reno/Tahoe

Duluth

SOUTH Gillette Rapid City DA KO TA

U N I T E D S TAT E S

N E VA DA

Thu

MINNE SOTA

NORTH DA KO TA

Sheridan

Worland Jackson Hole

Chico

Santa Rosa Sacramento

Minot

Lewistown M O N TA NA

Boise

Klamath Falls

Redding

PACIFIC OCEAN

Williston

Great Falls Helena

North Bend

Crescent City

Glasgow

Sioux Falls

Casper Chadron W YO M I N G

I OWA

Scottsbluff Salt Lake City Alliance Laramie NEBRASKA Vernal Hayden/ Cheyenne Grand Omaha Steamboat U TA H North Platte Des Island C O L O R A D O Springs Grand Moines Junction Vail/Eagle Kearney DENVER Lincoln Moab Aspen McCook

SAN FRANCISCO

Oakland Modesto San Jose Merced Fresno Monterey Visalia CA L I F O R N I A

Ceda Rapi Iowa

Burlingt Colorado Springs Gunnison/ Crested Hays Salina Las Vegas Telluride Butte Santa Maria Page/ Cortez Pueblo Durango K A N S A S Kansas City Lake Powell Santa Barbara Burbank Alamosa Garden City Oxnard Farmington Great Bend LOS ANGELES Long Beach Ontario Dodge City Flagstaff Way Orange County Wichita Liberal A R I Z O NA Springf Carlsbad Prescott Palm Springs MIS Amarillo Show Low Tulsa San Diego Albuquerque Imperial Northwest Phoenix/Scottsdale Oklahoma City Arkansas Yuma ARKA Inyokern Bakersfield

San Luis Obispo

St. George

Montrose

NEW MEXICO

Tucson

OKLAHOMA

Lubbock

Dallas/ Fort Worth

El Paso Midland/ Odessa

TEXAS

Dallas (LUV)

Waco

Killeen

Tyler

Kapalua

Kahului

Del Rio

Maui

HOUSTON San Antonio (INTERCONTINENTAL) Victoria

Pacific Ocean

Kona

0

50 50

100

100 150

Hilo

100

0 0

HEM_1110_RouteMaps.indd 1

B R Lake Charles Lafayette

Beaumont/ Pt. Arthur

Corpus Christi

150 Miles 200 Kilometers

LOUISIANA

Laredo

McAllen 0

Mo Shreveport

College Station Alexandria

Austin

Honolulu

Little Rock

100

200

200 300

300 400

500

400 Miles

Harlingen Brownsville

MEXICO

600 Kilometers

12/10/2010 12:29

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2010

133

Gander

Deer Lake Gulf Of St. Lawrence

Gaspe Mont-Joli Îles de la Madeliene

Baie-Comeau

CANADA Timmins Thunder Bay

Eastern Time Zone 7:00

Bagotville

Rouyn-Noranda

Bathurst

Sydney Charlottetown

Moncton

City

Goose Bay

Atlantic Time Zone 8:00

Fredericton Presque Isle Halifax Saint John

Mont Tremblant to San Francisco North Bay Sudbury Sault Ste. Ottawa Marie Kingston to Denver Toronto

Newfoundland Time Zone 8:30

Wabush

Gander Deer Lake

Sarnia

NEWFOUNDLAND & LABRADOR

ATLANTIC OCEAN

London Windsor

CLEVELAND

NEW YORK (NEWARK)

Gaspe Baie-Comeau

to Houston

WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES)

Gulf Of St. Lawrence

Mont-Joli

Îles de la Madeliene

Bathurst

Eastern Time Zone 7:00

Thunder Bay

Presque Isle Timmins Rouyn-Noranda O N TA R I O

MAINE

Plattsburgh Burlington

Kingston

Traverse City

N OVA

Halifax

SCOTIA Bangor Bar Harbor Augusta

Ottawa

WISCONSIN

Wausau nneapolis Eau Claire Green Bay

Saint John

North Bay

Sault Ste. Marie

Atlantic Time Zone 8:00

Moncton Fredericton

City

Mont Tremblant

Sudbury

Houghton

Duluth

P R I N C E E DWAR D Sydney NEW ISLAND B RU N SW I C K Charlottetown

Saguenay

V T. N.H.

Portland

N E W YO R K

Manchester Syracuse M I C H I GA N Appleton/ Midland/ Ithaca/ Albany Boston Rochester Fox Cities Corning Muskegon Grand Saginaw Sarnia Buffalo/ M Hartford/ A S S . Hyannis Milwaukee Rapids Flint Niagara Falls Binghamton SpringfieldR.I. Nantucket C.T. Newburgh Providence London JamestownElmira Lansing Madison Wilkes Barre/ New Haven White Detroit Windsor South Erie Bradford Scranton Long Island/Islip Plains Cedar Bend/Elkhart/ CLEVELAND New York (La Guardia) FranklinClearfieldWilliamsport N.J. Rapids/ Mishawaka (J.F. Kennedy) Iowa City State PAAllentown Akron/Canton Dubois College NEW YORK (NEWARK) OHIO Peoria Ft. Pittsburgh Moline Harrisburg Philadelphia Wayne Columbus Johnstown urlington Baltimore Altoona ILLINOIS I N D I A NA Morgantown MARYLAND D E L .

Dayton WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES) Clarksburg Springfield Indianapolis Parkersburg Shenandoah Salisbury Cincinnati WV Valley (Reagan National) St. Louis Charlottesville Huntington Charleston Louisville Lewisburg Richmond Lexington Beckley Lynchburg Norfolk/Virginia Beach Waynesville KENTUCKY Roanoke V I R G I N I A Newport News/Williamsburg Springfield Tri-Cities Regional Greensboro/High Point/Winston-Salem Raleigh/Durham NORTH M I S S O U R I Paducah Knoxville CA R O L I NA Nashville Greenville New Bern Charlotte Asheville Fayetteville/Ft. Bragg TENNESSEE ARKANSAS Greenville/ Jacksonville Spartanburg Chattanooga Memphis Little Wilmington Rock Huntsville/ Columbia Florence Myrtle Beach Decatur SOUTH Atlanta Toronto

Birmingham Monroe Jackson eport IANA

andria ayette

Augusta

CA R O L I NA

Charleston

Hilton Head Island Montgomery A L A BA M A

GEORGIA

Savannah

MISSISSIPPI

Baton Rouge

Mobile

Hamilton

BERMUDA

ATLANTIC OCEAN

Train Routes Codeshare / OnePass Service

Pensacola

Ft. Walton Gulfport/ Beach New Biloxi Orleans

Tallahassee

OnePass Eligible Service

Jacksonville Gainesville Daytona

Boston

F L O R I DA

Tampa/St. Petersburg

Orlando Melbourne Treasure Cay Freeport Marsh Harbour Ft. Lauderdale/Hollywood North Eleuthera Governors Harbour Miami Bimini Nassau BAHAMAS Andros Town Cat Island

Sarasota/Bradenton West Palm Beach

Gulf Of Mexico

Ft. Myers

Key West

Newark (Liberty)

New Haven Stamford New York (Penn Station)

Philadelphia Wilmington Washington, DC

ATLANTIC OCEAN

George Town

CUBA

HEM_1110_RouteMaps.indd 2

VIRGIN ISLANDS ( U. S . )

12/10/2010 12:30

ROUTE MAPS INTERNATIONAL CITIES Route lines do not reflect actual flight path

United/United Express Route United Future Service Continental/Continental Express/ Continental Connection Route

Cities served Cities served by select airline partners Time zone boundary

Continental Future Service Continental Seasonal Service United Hub (Red All Caps) Continental Hub (Blue All Caps)

CITY CITY

Continental Hub (Blue All Caps)

8:00 pm

7:00 pm

9:00 pm 10:00 pm

12:00 MON.

11:00 pm

1:00 am

12:00 SUN.

2:00 am

ARCTIC OCEAN

3:00 am

5:00 am

4:00 am

6:00 am

MIDNIGHT ALASKA (U.S.)

RUSSIA

Anchorage

8:00 pm CANADA

2:00 Khabarovsk

Ulaanbataar MONGOLIA

Seattle

Harbin Changchun Shenyang

CHINA

Baotou

Beijing Tianjin Dalian

Chengdu Chongqing

Pyongyang Niigata

Changsha

Wenzhou

Orange County Chihuahua

Saipan

GUAM

Kwajalein Pohnpei Chuuk (Truk)

Palau

Saltillo Monterrey Torreon Durango MEXICO Tampico Los Cabos Aguascalientes Queretaro Mexico City Veracruz Ciuda Puerto Vallarta Manzanillo Carm Puebla

Honolulu Kahului

Oaxaca Tuxtla Morelia Toluca HuatulcoGutiérrez Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo Villahermosa Acapulco Guatemala City San Salvad Manag L

MARSHALL ISLANDS

Majuro Kosrae

BRUNEI

Kuala Lumpur

HOUSTON (INTERCONTINENTAL

Kochi Matsuyama

Miyazaki

Kota Kinabalu Bandar Seri Begawan

MALAYSIA

Singapore I

N

D

O

N

E

S

I

W (D

DENVER

LOS ANGELES

Okayama Hiroshima

Oita

Fuzhou Guiyang BHUTAN Okinawa Guangzhou Xiamen Taipei Kunming Guilin BANGLADESH Nanning Macau Shenzhen Ishigaki BURMA Hanoi TAIWAN Hong Kong Chiang Rai LAOS Haikou Chiang Mai 9:00 pm Vientiane THAILAND South China Yangon Khon Kaen Sea Luzon Island Manilla Bangkok 5:30 CAMBODIA PHILIPPINES Phnom Penh VIETNAM Cebu Ho Chi Minh City Krabi Yap Phuket Hat Yai (Saigon) Penang

SAN FRANCISCO

Osaka

Kagoshima

Ningbo

Sendai Komatsu Tokyo Nagoya

Seoul S. KOREA Qingdao Pusan Fukuoka Nanjing Cheju Hefei Nagasaki Kumamoto Wuhan Shanghai Hangzhou

CHICAGO (O’HARE)

JAPAN

N. KOREA

Zhengzhou

6:00

U.S.A.

Sapporo

International Date Line

8:00 pm

PACIFIC OCEAN

A PAPUA NEW GUINEA

Jakarta Denpasar Bali

INDIAN OCEAN

Coral Sea

Darwin

Apia

AUSTRALIA

9:30 pm

Pago Pago

WESTERN SAMOA

Port Vila

Cairns

FIJI

Nadi

Niue

FRENCH POLYNESIA

Papeete Rarotonga

Nuku’ Alofa

Noumea

NEW CALEDONIA

1:00

Brisbane Gold Coast

Norfolk Island

Tamworth

Perth Adelaide Melbourne

Sydney

Tasman Sea

Auckland

Rotorua Napier-Hastings Palmerstown North Wellington NEW Blenheim ZEALAND Christchurch Queenstown Dunedin to to to to Cleveland New York New York New York (Newark) (La Guardia) (Newark) Hamilton

Nelson

to San Francisco to Los Angeles

Hermosillo Guaymas

to Denver

HOUSTON (INTERCONTINENTAL) Saltillo Torreon

7:00 pm

Los Cabos

6:00 pm

to Washington (Dulles)

Chihuahua

MEXICO Durango8:00 pm

Monterrey Nassau

9:00 pm Tampico Aguascalientes

10:00 pm

Havana

11:00 pm

Bermuda

Santiago

12:00 Samana 1:00 am MIDNIGHT Santo Domingo

Aguadilla Providenciales San Juan Queretaro Cozumel Puerto St. Thomas Mexico City Plata Veracruz Ciudad del Grand Cayman Puerto Vallarta St. Maarten Carmen Manzanillo Montego Puebla Port-auBelize Bay Guadalajara Antigua Kingston Prince Punta Cana St. Kitts Pointe a Pitre Roatan Oaxaca Morelia Toluca Huatulco Martinique San Pedro Sula St. Lucia Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo Tegucigalpa Villahermosa San Andres Barbados Aruba Island Bonaire Acapulco Grenada Guatemala City NIC. Tobago San Salvador COSTA Caracas Port-of-Spain Managua RICA Panama City PACIFIC OCEAN PANAMA Liberia COLOMBIA

HEM_1110_RouteMaps.indd 3

World time zones shown in Standard Time.

2:00 am

3:00 am

4:00 am

5:00 am

VENEZUELA

12/10/2010 12:31

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2010

135

12:00 pm

0 am

7:00 am

8:00 am

9:00 am

11:00 am

10:00 am

12:00 pm

1:00 pm

3:00 pm

2:00 pm

ARCTIC OCEAN Alta Tromso GREENLAND

Lulea

Keflavik Reykjavik

ICELAND

NORWAY

Hudson Bay

UNITED KINGDOM

Glasgow Belfast Dublin Shannon Birmingham Bristol London

9:30 DA

SWITZ.

Milan

Horta

TON TINENTAL)

Bermuda

ey Nassau

Santo Domingo Aguadilla

mpico ascalientes

San Juan Puerto Cozumel City Plata St. Thomas acruz Ciudad del Grand Cayman St. Maarten Carmen Montego Bay Belize Antigua Punta Cana Ponce uxtla Roatan tiérrez San Pedro Sula Tegucigalpa rmosa Aruba Bonaire mala City NIC. Panama Port-of-Spain San Salvador COSTACity Caracas Managua RICA Maracaibo Valencia PANAMA Liberia Cartagena VENEZUELA SURINAME Bucaramanga GUYANA Medellin

Sal

MAURITANIA

Dakar SENEGAL GAMBIA Banjul Bissau GUINEA BISSAU GUINEA Conakry Freetown

ATLANTIC OCEAN

Quito

ECUADOR

Manaus

Guayaquil

Fortaleza

BRAZIL

PERU

Marseille

SAUDI ARABIA

MALI

NIGER

BOLIVIA

CHILE

Brasilia Goiania Belo Horizonte

Campo Grande

BURKINAOuagadougou FASO BENIN TOGO

EQUATORIAL GUINEA

Sao Tome

SAO TOME & PRINCIPE

Cordoba Santiago

GABON CONGO

7:00 am

SOUTH AFRICA

Glasgow

HEM_1110_RouteMaps.indd 4

9:00 am

MOZAMBIQUE

NORWAY

Oslo SWEDEN MADAGASCAR

Manzini Maputo

SWAZILAND Johannesburg Stavanger Bloemfontein Durban Maseru

SCOTLAND Cape Town

10:00 am

11:00 am

East London Aberdeen

Port Elizabeth Edinburgh

4:00 pm

INDIAN OCEAN 5:00 pm

6:00 pm

Lilongwe Harare

Bergen

Gaborone

SEYCHELLES

3:00 pm

COMOROS

ZIMBABWE

BOTSWANA

Dar Es Salaam

MALAWI

ZAMBIA

NAMIBIA

Bangalore Chennai Mangalore (Madras) Kozhikode Coimbatore Cochin Trivandrum

SRI LANKA

Mahé

TANZANIA

Agartala

Goa

MALDIVES

Nairobi

2:00 pm

Mumbai

Colombo

SOMALIA

BURUNDI

Bujumbura

Kinshasa

Lusaka

Montevideo Buenos Aires

8:00 am

ETHIOPIA

UGANDA

Kigali

LESOTHO

Aalborg DENMARK

Aarhus Billund Esbjerg

FINLAND

Helsinki

Stockholm ESTONIA

LATVIA

Riga

Copenhagen Palanga LITHUANIA Malmo Newcastle RUSSIA Vilnius Gdansk Kaliningrad Groningen Bremen Hamburg Leeds POLAND BELARUS Dublin WALES Manchester Berlin ENGLAND NETH. Hannover Shannon Birmingham Amsterdam Warsaw Muenster Cork GERMANY Leipzig BELGIUM London Dresden Bristol London Brussels Prague (Gatwick) Katowice Cologne UKRAINE Frankfurt CZECH Luxembourg Nuremberg REPUBLIC SLOVAKIA Stuttgart Munich Paris Salzburg Basel Linz Vienna Budapest FRANCE AUSTRIA Friedrichshafen Klagenfurt Cluj-Napoca SWITZ. 1:00 pm Ljubljana Lyon Verona Venice Zagreb Bucharest TriesteBOS. ROMANIA Turin Milan Bologna HERZ. Belgrade Genoa Toulouse Florence 2:00 pm Sarajevo SERBIA La Coruna BULGARIA Marseille Nice Pisa Ancona KOS. Bilbao Sofia Skopje Istanbul Rome ALBANIA MAC. Porto Naples ITALY Thessaloniki SPAIN PORTUGAL Valencia Alexandroupolis Palma GREECE Ibiza La Romana Palermo Alicante 12:00 Lisbon Mediterranean Sea Izmir Sevilla Mikonos NOON Faro Granada Rhodes MALTA Luga Heraklion NORTHERN IRELAND UNITED Belfast KINGDOM IRELAND

6:00 am

DJIBOUTI

Juba

RWANDA

ANGOLA

URUGUAY

Arabian Sea

Sanaa

KENYA

10:00 am

Curitiba Florianopolis Porto Alegre

4:00 pm

Addis Ababa

Libreville

Atlantic Windhoek Ocean

Pune

OMAN

YEMEN

Asmara

SUDAN

Kano

NIGERIA

Lubumbashi

Iguassu Falls ARGENTINA

Khartoum

Luanda

Rio de Janeiro

PARAGUAY

ERITREA

CHAD

1:00 pm

Pointe Noire

Recife

Santa Cruz

Sofia Skopje Tirana

MONT.

Salvador Lima Cuzco

BOS.HER. SERB. KOS.

Rome

Abuja Cotonou SIERRA LEONE GHANA Lagos Port Harcourt CAMEROON CENTRAL AFRICAN REPUBLIC Monrovia LIBERIA Douala Accra Lome DEM. REP. Yaounde Malabo Abidjan CONGO

COLOMBIA

N

Belgrade

Krasnodar Alma-Ata Black Sea Batumi Bishkek UZBEKISTAN GEORGIATbilisi 5:00 Tashkent KYRGYZSTAN Baku Istanbul Barcelona PORTUGAL ARMENIA AZER. TURKMENISTAN Ankara Naples Madrid Lisbon ALB. GREECE TURKEY Dushanbe Yerevan Izmir TAJIKISTAN Antalya Granada Faro Athens Ashgabat Erbil Algiers Tunis Malta Ercan Larnaca 12:00 SYRIA AFGHAN. Islamabad Rhodes CYPRUS Oran Med Beirut IRAQ TUNISIA Tehran Mashad Peshawar Nador i t LEBANON er Jammu ra n ean Sea Casablanca Damascus Bagdad IRAN Tel Aviv Tripoli MOROCCO Amritsar 4:30 ISRAEL Amman Chandigarh Guwahati Benghazi Alexandria Lahore Funchal 3:30 JORDAN Kathmandu CANARY ISLANDS 5:00 Delhi Kuwait Cairo NEPAL PAKISTAN Tenerife ALGERIA BHUTAN Dammam 2:00 pm Las Palmas QATAR Jaipur LIBYA Lucknow Bahrain BANG. Luxor Dubai Karachi Riyadh Doha Indore 5:30 Patna Dhaka WESTERN SAHARA U. A. E. EGYPT INDIA Muscat Jeddah Abu Dhabi Ahmedabad Nagpur Raipur Kolkata

CAPE VERDE ISLANDS

FRENCH GUIANA

Cali

KAZAKHSTAN

Donetzk

Chisinau Odessa Bucharest

ROMANIA

Sea

NEW YORK (NEWARK)

6:00 pm

UKRAINE

MOLDOVA

AUSTRIA

Ekaterinburg 4:00

an spi Ca

CLEVELAND

RUSSIA 5:00 pm

4:00

Kiev

Krakow Kosice

Munich

Geneva

WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES)

Helsinki

Turku

POLAND

Frankfurt Paris

SPAIN

New York (La Guardia)

2:00 pm FINLAND

Oslo St. Petersburg Tallinn Stockholm Edinburgh LAT. Riga Copenhagen Manchester LITH. Moscow Malmo Vilnius Amsterdam Hamburg Minsk Gdansk Brussels BELARUS GERMANY Berlin Warsaw

FRANCE

CHICAGO (O’HARE)

Oulu

Umea Trondheim Ostersund Kristiansund Molde SWEDEN Vaasa

12/10/2010 12:31

INFORMATION & TERMINAL DIAGRAMS DOMESTIC Whether your next flight is on United or one of the Star Alliance partners around the world, use the terminal diagrams on pages 141–144 to plan your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters, United Red Carpet Clubs and interterminal transportation.

MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT.

CONTACT INFORMATION Reservations united.com 800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

Automated Flight Information

Customer Relations united.com/customerrelations Email: customerrelations@ united.com

800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

Red Carpet Club™ united.com/redcarpetclub 866-UA-CLUBS (toll-free) 520-881-0500 (outside the U.S.)

united.com/chase 800-537-7783

Baggage Services united.com/baggage 800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

United Vacations unitedvacations.com 800-32-TOURS (800-328-6877)

Charter an Airplane united.com/charter

Hearing Impaired (TDD) 800-323-0170

Mileage Plus Visa Customer Service

800-668-6182

800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

Mileage Plus 24-Hour Account Information & Award Travel united.com/mileageplus

Duty Free World 6095 NW 167th St. Suite D-4 Miami, FL 33015 USA

Reservaciones en Español 800-426-5561

Small Package Same Day Shipping Small Package Dispatch (SPD)— Airport-to-airport service: 800-722-5243

United Cargo unitedcargo.com 800-UA-CARGO (800-822-2746)

EasyCheck-in kiosks are located on the concourse to assist customers who have experienced a misconnection or canceled flight. Customers who have e-tickets and are traveling domestically may use the kiosk to: 1. Rebook on another flight 2. Obtain a boarding pass 3. Standby for the next flight to their destination

Employment Opportunities united.com/jobs 888-UAL-JOBS (888-825-5627)

Refunds

United Services unitedsvcs.com

united.com/refunds 800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

Meetings Plus 800-MEET-UAL (800-633-8825)

TRAVEL ASSISTANCE FOR DELAYED OR CANCELED FLIGHTS At United Airlines, our priority is safety and keeping an on-time schedule. On occasion, canceling or delaying a flight is the only option to assure we maintain the highest safety standards.

Flight canceled? We automatically confirm you on the next United flight with available seats. EasyCheck-in® units located in the concourse will assist you with information and a boarding pass—it will also help you standby for an earlier United flight if one is scheduled. If you want to travel standby and aren’t boarded, we will transfer your name to the next United flight to your destination until you are onboard.

What about my bag? Baggage is boarded on the next flight if space is available. This means your bags may arrive before you. United will secure the bag until you claim it. See a baggage claim representative.

What if I have to stay overnight? If a flight is canceled to address a mechanical issue or another similar reason within our control, we

will provide you with a hotel and meal voucher. For uncontrollable events—such as weather—we may be able to help you locate a local hotel at a discounted rate; however United does not cover hotel or meal expenses in this event. If we can not retrieve your checked bag, overnight kits containing toiletries are available. Please see an agent.

What if the reason for my travel no longer exists? If as a result of the delay or cancelation you decide not to travel, call United reservations (1-800 UNITED-1) to get information on your options.

Help us help you keep informed. Sign up for EasyUpdate®, our messaging service. If your flight is canceled or delayed, EasyUpdate® will inform you. Enroll at united.com/easyupdate. At home? Go to united. com for information or to check-in and print your boarding pass.

Your safety and satisfaction are important. We appreciate your business and apologize for any inconvenience you may have experienced.

STAYING FIT: INFLIGHT FLEXIBILITY Knee Flexion: Lift knee toward chest, decreasing the amount of joint space at back of the knee.

Repeat with other leg.

Dorsiflexion: With heel on floor, point toes upward, decreasing the angle between the foot and front of the leg.

Repeat with other foot.

Eversion: With foot on floor, gently roll the sole of the foot inward. Repeat with other foot.

Knee Extension: Straighten knee, increasing the amount of joint space at the back of the knee to its full range. Repeat with other leg.

Plantar Flexion: Lift the heel and keep toes pointed toward the floor, increasing the angle between the top of the foot and front of the leg. Repeat with other foot.

Inversion: With foot on floor, gently roll the sole of the foot outward. Repeat with other foot.

HEM_1110_TerminalDiagrams.indd 1

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2010

ORD

CHICAGO / Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;HARE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

United Gate Area Continental Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop / Train Stop United Easy Check-In / Customer Service Center Medical Center

Concourse F US Airways

F14 F11

F10

Concourse E Air Canada

F6

C1

C8

F4 E3

TERMINAL TWO F1

Concourse C ANA

C9

Shuttle Bus

C16

E1

C17

C18

B1

TERMINAL THREE

B6

C19 C24

Pedestrian Tunnel

Elevated Airport Transit System (ATS) B9

C32

TERMINAL ONE B14

TERMINAL FIVE International Arrivals

Concourse B Continental Lufthansa

B18

B22

Concourse M

Shuttle runs between Gates C9 and E3.

IAD

WASHINGTON / DULLES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge International Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In United Easy Check-In / Customer Service Center

EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

Train

Concourse C Air Canada C Connector Tunnel C2

C1

C12

C18

C9

C17

A2

A4

A6

A1

A3

A5

Concourse D

C24

C27

D2

D1

D8

D3

Shuttle Bus

A14

D30

Concourse A South African Airways Z G AT E S US Airways

A32

B37

Shuttle Bus

B79

Concourse B ANA Austrian Airlines Continental Lufthansa SAS

MAIN TERMINAL

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TERMINAL DIAGRAMS DOMESTIC & OVERSEAS Whether your next flight is on United or one of the Star Alliance partners around the world, use the terminal diagrams on pages 141–144 to plan your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters, United Red Carpet Clubs and interterminal transportation.

MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT.

LAX

EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

LOS ANGELES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT TERMINAL 3

United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Premier Check-In Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop Continental Presidents Club United Easy Check-In / Customer Service Center

TERMINAL 2 Air Canada Air New Zealand

TERMINAL 1 US Airways 12 4B

TOM BRADLEY I N T E R N AT I O N A L TERMINAL Lufthansa Thai Airways ANA Singapore Asiana Swiss

Shuttle Bus

71A

67A

64

72

75A 69A

TERMINAL 4

SFO

TERMINAL 5

SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

80

70A

68B

88

76

TERMINAL 6 Continental

TERMINAL 7

TERMINAL 8

EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

TERMINAL 3

79

78A

Concourse E Air Canada

Concourse F

United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite International Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Continental Presidents Club United Easy Check-In / Customer Service Center Medical Center

88

80

89

81

76A 71 72

International Terminal Secure Connector

73

Concourse G United Air New Zealand ANA Lufthansa Singapore TERMINAL 1

Concourse B Continental US Airways

Concourse A Asiana

Rountrip Shuttle service between Terminal G and Terminal 1.

DEN

DENVER INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

United Gate Area Continental Gate Area United Red Carpet Club International Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Interterminal Train Stop United Easy Check-In / Customer Service Center

EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

Concourse C US Airways

28

15

25

37

39

49

16

26

36

38

50

77

57

★

60 81

35

41

Concourse A Air Canada Lufthansa

TERMINAL WEST

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Concourse B Continental

57

80

91 92

TERMINAL EAST

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139

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2010

LHR

LONDON / HEATHROW INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Shuttle Bus

United Gate Area United Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop

TERMINAL 1

TERMINAL 5

49 48 47

56

37

54

39 50

TERMINAL 3 44 36

42

Shuttle Bus

TERMINAL 2 TERMINAL 4 Continental

FRA

FRANKFURT INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT TERMINAL ONE Continental

United Gate Area Interterminal Train Stop Medical Center

B332-B340 B300-B303

Pier A, Level 3

Pier C

C1

Gates A51-A65 C5

C8

Pedestrian Transfer Tunnel B20 C7

Lufthansa Tower Lounge Level 5

B44

B24

Train to Terminal 2 B48

B28 B26

NRT

B46

Pier B

TOKYO / NARITA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Satellite 3 Continental 43

Satellite 2

37

31

38

Satellite 4 47

32

Fourth Floor Third Floor

Pe

United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Premier Check-In Medical Center

de

North Wing

st

South Wing

ria n

Zone A

Tu nn el

Zone D

Satellite 1 TERMINAL 1

Satellite 5

HEM_1110_TerminalDiagrams.indd 4

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TERMINAL DIAGRAMS STAR ALLIANCE United Gate Area Continental Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge

IAH

United Arrivals Suite International Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Continental Presidents Club

HOUSTON GEORGE BUSH INTERCONTINENTAL AIRPORT

PHL

Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop / Train Stop United Easy Check-In / Customer Service Center Medical Center

PHILADELPHIA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Concourse F

TERMINALS A-E Continental C20 C21 A3-15

B84-91

B76-83

C23

C17

Concourses A, B, C & F US Airways

TERMINAL D C14

Shuttle Bus

Concourse E

TerminaLink 1 7

A25-30

B68-75

A17-24

TERMINAL B

TERMINAL A

13

E10-14

B60-67 C34-42

TERMINAL C United

Concourse A West

E15-24

E1-9

TERMINAL E

Continuous shuttle bus pickup and drop-off between Gates F10 and C16.

TerminaLink connects B, C, D and E. It is above ground transportation between terminals while inside security.

CLT

CHARLOTTE DOUGLAS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Concourse C

CLE

Concourse D United Continental

Concourse A Concourse B Concourse C East

Concourse B

CLEVELAND HOPKINS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Concourses B-E US Airways

Concourse B

Concourse E Concourse C Continental United

C19 C16

C14

Concourse D

2 4

Concourse A

Concourse A United

C2

C7

C21 C4

C10

C29

C22 C23

PHX

PHOENIX SKY HARBOR INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

Pedestrian Tunnel

C25

D2 D6

TERMINAL 2 United Continental

Concourse D Continental

D10 D14

TERMINAL 4 US Airways

D28 D25 D21

Concourse A

D17

EWR

Concourse B

Concourse B International

1

NEWARK LIBERTY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

7

Shuttle Bus 88

B2 B3

80

98

To transfer between terminals, catch the interterminal bus curbside.

A3

GUM

92 72

102

GUAM INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

71

TERMINAL B

101

115

B1

75

TERMINAL C Continental

127

TERMINAL A United Continental

A2

MAIN TERMINAL Continental

130

AirTrain 136

A1

6

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15

11

21

4 8

10

12

18

12/10/2010 12:28

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2010

141

ENJOY A WORLD OF STAR ALLIANCE CONNECTIONS AND PRIVILEGES. Earn or redeem Mileage Plus miles when you fly on any Star Alliance member carrier. The flight miles you earn qualify toward elite status for next year. As a Mileage Plus elite member, your status is recognized on all the Star Alliance carriers. For more information, go to united.com/staralliance.

ALLIANCES AND PARTNERSHIPS STAR ALLIANCE AIRLINE PARTNERS

STAR ALLIANCE Established in 1997 as the first

truly global airline alliance to offer customers a worldwide travel network that aims to provide customers a seamless travel experience across multiple airlines. Today the Star Alliance network offers more than 21,200 daily flights to 1,172 destinations in 181 countries.

EARN MILEAGE PLUS® MILES AND ELITE STATUS FASTER

With the largest airline alliance, you can earn miles almost anywhere in the world you fly. Miles can be earned on most fares on almost every Star Alliance flight and can be credited to your Mileage Plus account. Plus the flight miles you earn will count toward elite status in Mileage Plus. See united.com/airpartners for details.

EARN RECOGNITION AROUND THE WORLD The more miles you fly with United and the Star Alliance airlines, the higher your Mileage Plus elite status can be: Premier®, Premier Executive® or 1K®.

Mileage Plus elite status is recognized across the alliance as either Star Alliance Silver or Star Alliance Gold, with travel benefits worldwide. See united.com/staralliance for the Star Silver and Star Gold benefits you can receive.

AWARD TRAVEL IS NOW EASIER With Star Alliance

Awards, you can use your Mileage Plus miles for award travel on any Star Alliance carrier worldwide. Or use them for Star Alliance Upgrade Awards—upgrade to a premium cabin and travel in comfort (available on most Star Alliance airlines).

OTHER AIRLINE PARTNERS

You can earn and redeem miles on several other airline partners. See united.com/airpartners for specific information about each of our other airline partners.

Aer Lingus Continental Connection Emirates Great Lakes Hawaiian Airlines

HEM_1110_TerminalDiagrams.indd 6

Island Air Jet Airways Qatar Airways TACA Group

12/10/2010 12:28

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07/10/2010 10:22

CUSTOMS & IMMIGRATION

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2010

143

ENTRY REGULATIONS

I-94 ARRIVAL / DEPARTURE RECORD

CUSTOMS DECLARATION

ENGLISH All passengers (or one per family) are required to complete the Customs Declaration forms prior to arrival in the U.S. The forms will be distributed inflight and should include all personal data in English and in capital letters. Please ensure you sign your name.

SPANISH/ESPAÑOL Todos los pasajeros (o uno por cada familia) tienen que llenar los formularios de Declaración de Aduanas antes de llegar a los EE.UU. Los formularios se distribuirán durante el veulo y deben incluir todos sus datos personales en inglés y con letras mayúsculas. No olvide firmar en el reverso del formulario.

1. Apellido, Nombre, Segundo nombre 2. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año)

3. Cuántos familiares viajan con usted 4. (a) Dirección en los EE.UU. (nombre del hotel/lugar) (b) Ciudad, (c) Estado 5. Pasaporte expedido en (páis) 6. Número del pasaporte 7. País de residencia 8. Países que visitó durante este viaje antes de su llegada a los EE.UU. 9. Línea aérea/número de vuelo o nombre del barco 10. El propósito principal de este viaje es de Sí / No negocios: 11. Traigo (Traemos) (a) frutas, plantas, alimentos, insectos: Sí / No (b) carnes, animales, productos de animales o silvestres: Sí / No (c) agentes de enfermedades, cultivos celulares, caracoles:Sí / No (d) tierra o he (hemos) estado en finca/ granja/pastizales: Sí / No 12. He (Hemos) estado en cercanías de ganado (tocando o manipulándolo): Sí / No 13. Llevo (Llevamos) divisas o instrumentos monetarios por valor superior a $10,000 o su equivalente en moneda extranjera (Véase la definición de instrumentos monetarios al dorso): Sí / No 14. Tengo (Tenemos) mercancías comerciales (artículos para la venta, muestras para solicitar pedidos o bienes que no constituyen efectos personales): Sí / No 15. Residentes—el valor total de todos los bienes, incluidas las mercancías comerciales que he (hemos) comprado en el extranjero, (incluyendo regalos para otras personas, pero sin incluir los artículos enviados por correo a los EE.UU.) y que estoy (estamos) introduciendo en los EE.UU. es de: $___ Visitantes—el valor total de todos los artículos que permanecerán en los EE.UU., incluidas las mercancías comerciales, es de: $___

HAZARDOUS MATERIALS NOTICE & IMPORT RESTRICTIONS HAZARDOUS MATERIALS The following items are considered hazardous materials. Do not pack in checked or carry-on luggage.

FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS OR SOLIDS Fuel, paints, solvents, lighter fluid, matches WEAPONS Loaded firearms, ammunition, gunpowder, Mace, tear gas, pepper spray HOUSEHOLD ITEMS Drain cleaners and solvents COMPRESSED GASES Spray can, butane fuel, oxygen bottles FIREWORKS Firecrackers, sparklers or explosives OTHER HAZARDOUS MATERIALS Dry ice, gasoline-powered tools, camping equipment with fuel, wet cell batteries, oxidizers, corrosives, radioactive materials,

poisons, infectious substances NOTE There are special exceptions for small quantities of up to 70 oz. (2 kg or 2 liters) of medicinal and toilet articles carried in your luggage. For further information, check with any airline representative.

IMPORT RESTRICTIONS Please note new controls on the import of meat, fish, plants and their products into the United Kingdom and European Union. Check the advisory notices displayed in the baggage hall for a detailed explanation of these restrictions. If you possess any of these items, please declare them to customs in the red channel to avoid legal consequences.

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection

OMB No. 1651-0111

Welcome to the United States I-94 Arrival/Departure Record Instructions This form must be completed by all persons except U.S. Citizens, returning resident aliens, aliens with immigrant visas, and Canadian Citizens visiting or in transit.

Type or print legibly with pen in ALL CAPITAL LETTERS. Use English. Do not write on the back of this form.

This form is in two parts. Please complete both the Arrival Record (Items 1 through 17) and the Departure Record (Items 18 through 21).

When all items are completed, present this form to the CBP Officer.

Item 9 - If you are entering the United States by land, enter LAND in this space. If you are entering the United States by ship, enter SEA in this space.

5 U.S.C. § 552a(e)(3) Privacy Act Notice: Information collected on this form is required by Title 8 of the U.S. Code, including the INA (8 U.S.C. 1103, 1187), and 8 CFR 235.1, 264, and 1235.1. The purposes for this collection are to give the terms of admission and document the arrival and departure of nonimmigrant aliens to the U.S. The information solicited on this form may be made available to other government agencies for law enforcement purposes or to assist DHS in determining your admissibility. All nonimmigrant aliens seeking admission to the U.S., unless otherwise exempted, must provide this information. Failure to provide this information may deny you entry to the United States and result in your removal.

CBP Form I-94 (05/08) OMB No. 1651-0111

Arrival Record Admission Number

000000000 00

1. Family Name 2. First (Given) Name

3. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY)

4. Country of Citizenship

5. Sex (Male or Female)

6. Passport Issue Date (DD/MM/YY)

7. Passport Expiration Date (DD/MM/YY)

8. Passport Number

9. Airline and Flight Number

10. Country Where You Live

11. Country Where You Boarded

12. City Where Visa Was Issued

13. Date Issued (DD/MM/YY)

14. Address While in the United States (Number and Street) 15. City and State 16. Telephone Number in the U.S. Where You Can be Reached 17. Email Address

CBP Form I-94 (05/08)

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection

OMB No. 1651-0111

Departure Record Admission Number

000000000 00

18. Family Name 19. First (Given) Name

20. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY)

21. Country of Citizenship

CBP Form I-94 (05/08) See Other Side

STAPLE HERE

ENGLISH Prior to arrival in the U.S., all foreign nationals (except Canadian citizens and U.S. permanent residents or nationals of countries entitled to the Visa Waiver Program) are required to complete an I-94 form. One form is required for each family member. Customers should complete all personal and travel-related information included on the front side of the form. Please do not write on the back side of the form.

All information should be written in capital letters and in English. You are required to keep this form until your departure from the U.S. SPANISH / ESPAÑOL Antes de su llegada a los Estados Unidos, todos los ciudadanos extranjeros (excepto los ciudadanos de Canadá y los residentes permanentes en los Estados Unidos o ciudadanos de los países que tienen el Programa “Visa Waiver”) tienen que llenar un formulario I-94. Hay que rellenar un formulario por cada miembro de la familia.

Los pasajeros llenarán toda la información personal y relativa al viaje que se incluye en el anverso del formulario. Le rogamos que no escriba en el reverso del formulario. Toda la información debe estar escrita con letras mayúsculas y en inglés. Le rogamos que guarde este formulario hasta que salga de los Estados Unidos.

1. Apellido 2. Nombre 3. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) 4. País de ciudadanía 5. Sexo (masculino o femenino) 6. Fecha de emisión del pasaporte 7. Fecha de vencimiento del pasaporte 8. Número de pasaporte 9. Aerolínea y número de vuelo 10. País donde vives 11. País en el que abordaron 12. Ciudad donde obtuvo el visado 13. Fecha del visado (Día/Mes/Año) 14. Direccion donde se quedará en los EE.UU (Número, calle) 15. Ciudad y Estado 16. Teléfono de contacto en EE.UU. 17. Dirección de correo electrónico 18. Apellido 19. Nombre 20. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) 21. Pais de ciudadanía

ELECTRONIC SYSTEM FOR TRAVEL AUTHORIZATION ENGLISH

SPANISH / ESPAÑOL

Effective January 12, 2009, all passengers who intend to travel to the United States without a U.S. Visa under the terms of the Visa Waiver Program must obtain an electronic preauthorization or ESTA in advance of travel. When planning international travel, please be sure that you are in possession of all required documents. Remember to allow ample time for acquiring official travel documents. For complete information on the requirements, and to apply for ESTA, please visit www. cbp.gov/esta.

A partir del 12 de enero de 2009, todos los pasajeros que quieran viajar a los EE.UU. (entre los terminos del programa de no tener que usar la Visa) tendran que obtener una preautorización electronica o ESTA antes de viajar. Cuando estés coordinando viajes internacionales, este seguro que tenga todos los documentos requerídos. No se olvide de dejar tiempo suficiente para adquirir los documentos oficiales de viaje.

Para información completa sobre todos los requisitos, y para aplicar para ESTA, por favor visite www.cbp.gov/esta.

It is United policy on all flights to ask you to use only the lavatories in your ticketed cabin. This policy complies with the U.S. Transportation Security Administration directive that passengers on international flights to the U.S. may use only the lavatories in their ticketed cabin.

R1_HEM_1110_Customs&Immigration_V2.indd 2

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144 | NOVEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM

CROSSWORD DAY OF A SALESPERSON ALL THEME CLUES ARE IN BOLD

R1_HEM_1110_Crossword.indd 1

107. Disney dwarf 110. Mouthwash brand 112. Information 114. Thicket 119. Mandela fought against 121. Post production task 122. Announcer of important news 123. Make soiled 124. Unloading site 126. Connecting point 128. Actor Pitt 129. Jean fabric 130. Sandwich man?

131. Like a sad sack 132. Gross 133. Stare at 134. Cut down 135. Hogwash 136. Café alternative DOWN 1. Address abbr.

2. Put up 3. Fragrant oil 4. Piece of property 5. Nail holder 6. Last of a series 7. A retraction in an ode 8. Curt ?”

9. “Is that 10. A lunar ray nut 11.

12. Seat of power 13. Yachting 14. Pro’s foe 15. Doctor’s order 16. Closing deal 20. Sasquatch 25. Traffic stopper 27. Silent 29. Left 31. Forfeit 37. Obama’s office 38. Barren 40. Pretentious talk or writing 42. A restaurant patron 43. Fringe 44. Ill-tempered 45. Leave out 46. Fork feature v. Wade 48.

50. Identical 51. Central bitten, twice shy” 52. “

54. Perceive 56. Move upward 60. Public 61. Sports stadium 63. “Agreed!”

65. Wander 67. Neighbor of Ger. 68. Warmed the bench 71. Off-pitch 73. Carve 74. Fine things 75. Display of sulkiness 76. Southern dish 77. Computer correspondence

79. Rink surface 81. Lopsided tide 82.

83. Was present 84. Spirit 86. Move with stealth 87. Something to lend or bend 90. Handout 94. Tending to cure or restore to health 95. Business get-togethers 96. Trip the light fantastic 98. Nose part 100. Senior

101. Not working 104. Plot 107. Smidge 108. Newspaper page 109. Small part 111. Organ parts 113. Castaway’s site 115. Elliptical path 116. Sear 117. Quench 118. Whirling water 120. Circus site 122. Rope fiber 125. Victorian 127. Batman and Robin, e.g.

© P UZ P UZ P UZ Z L E S C R O S SWO R D BY G R E G B RU C E

ACROSS 1. Princess tormentor 4. On the peak of 8. Follower of Mary 12. Way to the top 16. Database command 17. Deep sleep 18. Moisturizer additive 19. Pooh bear’s treat 21. Assist in crime 22. Rod attachment 23. Coagulate 24. Instead 26. Pinpoint 28. Computer science rule (acr.)

30. Bargain 32. Bonus 33. In the near future 34. Russian pancakes 35. Auction action 36. Atlantic catch 39. Standing by 41. Peddle 43. Affectionate 47. Announce 49. Thingamajig 53. Café noir 55. Affaire 57. Served on the side of tikka masala 58. Acquire 59. Spider Man creator, Stan 60. Soft food for infants 62. Outbreak 64. Keyboard key 66. Compiled statistics 69. Tranquil 70. Poetic adverb 72. Met offering 73. Poseidon’s domain 74. Urgent request 78. An insane person 80. *NSYNC member Bass 85. Dorm partner 88. Napkin’s place 89. Moo chew 91. Welt 92. Sashimi offering 93. Princess topper 95. An extravagant story 97. Oktoberfest souvenir 99. Usher in 102. Baby enclosure 103. Found’s partner 105. Ruckus Conference 106. Big

IF YOU FILL IN THE CROSSWORD PLEASE TAKE THE MAGAZINE WITH YOU SO IT’S REPLACED. // ANSWERS FOUND ON P. 52

14/10/2010 15:16

Maybe it’s time to outsource… your dating life

Navigating today’s complex dating scene can be daunting, and busy professionals often wonder who to turn to for advice. We sat down with It’s Just Lunch dating expert PJ Osgood to discuss the difficulties of dating for singles on the go.

Here’s some of the savvy advice she gives to her clients.

Why is dating so challenging these days for career-focused singles?

Let’s face it—dating is challenging for everyone!

Throw a demanding professional or family life into the mix, and you can understand why someone hires IJL. Dating feels difficult because time is valuable, and it isn’t easy to efficiently manage a fruitful dating life. With our help, clients go out on dates with someone who already meets their essential requirements. That way, the only thing left to be determined is the chemistry.

What type of person uses It’s Just Lunch?

Clients come to me because the process of finding someone on their own can be overwhelming. Meeting people through family, friends, or online requires a lot of time and often doesn’t deliver results. Instead, they join IJL because they are ready to be proactive and want to take a professional approach to finding their perfect match.

So, that’s why they come to IJL? To meet their match?

Absolutely! Our clients come to IJL because they have reached a point where they want to find someone special. They hire us as results-driven dating specialists. People hire professionals to handle so many aspects of their lives, so why not use a professional to help you find someone special? We are matchmaking professionals —this is what we do day in and day out. We take a personal approach and remain objective.

A successful love life for our clients is our goal.

“Great guys and women don’t circle around your block waiting for you to come out of your house.

You’ve got to market yourself.”

What really differentiates IJL from the other dating options out there?

My clients look to me as their personal dating headhunter. At IJL, we meet with our clients face to face and identify the key characteristics they are looking for in a match. We learn what has and hasn’t worked for them in the past and put a positive plan in place. Then we introduce them to other like-minded singles in a casual, lowpressure first date setting where they can truly be themselves. Because in the end, it’s just lunch!

IT’S JUST LUNCH has professional dating specialists just like PJ all around the world.

Call us and discover how we can help you create a more rewarding dating life today.

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Real People. Real Dates.

No.27434_IJL.indd 1

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Visit ITSJUSTLUNCH.COM or call 1.800.858.6526

07/10/2010 10:47

146 | NOVEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM

SUDOKU THE NUMBERS GAME

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Valid on entrances from Dec 1-31, no matter how long you stay. Uncovered parking only.

Regularly $9/day only $6/day with coupon. Valet fees extra. No credit for covered parking, one coupon or discount per transaction please.

Valet fees extra. USAirport PARKING Does NOT Charge Taxes, Fees, or Other Add-ons. Valid With Or Without Frequent Parker Card. Not Valid With Any Other Offer. One Per Visit. Not Valid With Monthly Or Yearly Prepaid Rates. Rates & Offers Subject To Change.

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SKI MARKETPLACE

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149

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@.C2 Stay & Ski Packages from $249.

Just 30 minutes from Whistler by air.

Two-night weekend packages and 3, 4, 5 & 7 day trips. The ultimate backcountry adventure available for any budget.

New Mexicoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s premier mountain resort awaits at Ski Apache and Inn of the Mountain Gods Resort & Casino. By day, explore 750 acres of terrain and more than fifty runs for every skill level. By night, take on our full casino, indulge in award-winning dining, or relax at our fireside lounge with stunning alpine views. The package includes a one-night stay in a superior room, 2 one-day lift tickets, breakfast for two, and round-trip transportation from Inn of the Mountain Gods to Ski Apache.

Call 1-800-545-9011 or visit skiapache.com. tlhheli.com t: 250 238 2204 e: info@tlhheli.com toll free NA: 1 800 667 4854

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*Some restrictions apply. Call resort for details.

12/10/2010 14:34

EDUCATION MARKETPLACE

When You’ve M a st e r e d Ever yt h ing From Reik i to Ref lexolog y, Where Do You Go Nex t?

Discover.

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It’s Out of this World Kids come to Bolles from all over the world for all kinds of reasons.

But the most important reason is the consistent quality of excellence and breadth of programs throughout the curriculum—in academics, including “Singapore Math” and updated

science and health and fitness programs, the fine and performing arts, athletics and activities. While our reputation spans the globe, small class sizes and caring faculty provide individual attention to each student and help contribute to their success.

Bolles can prepare your child for life’s Bol jou journey to college and beyond.

You’ve completed a few courses.

Dabbled in one or two more. Maybe gone full circle on the workshop tour.

And the Ponging to know more and be more is just as strong. Now what?

Take a quantum leap into Brennan Healing Science.® Learn not only to read the Human Energy Field but be able to identify and heal the distortions that lead to disease. Use High Sense Perception to track and guide the flows of energy and to access vital information.

Perform some of the most advanced healing techniques known. And much more. The four-year part-time professional training program is also an incredible journey of self-discovery.

Many students come for that alone.

Others arrive with no experience of any healing modality, yet leave as amazing healers.Take the opportunity to learn directly from Dr. Barbara Brennan, the former NASA scientist and best-selling author who pioneered modern energy healing.

Go to our website and request your free copy of our DVD, Becoming a Healer.

Or just call our friendly folk in the office.

Day & Boarding Jacksonville, Florida Lower School (PreK-5) Ponte Vedra Campus Whitehurst Campus Middle School (6-8) Bartram Campus Upper School (9-12) San Jose Campus

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Call (904) 256-5030 or visit us at www.Bolles.org

150_151_Hemi_Education Marketplace.indd 150

12/10/2010 13:48

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2010

151

Professional MBA Program Delivered at a distance or on our Fort Collins campus UÊ VµÕ ÀiÊ >À iÌ>L iÊ> `Ê} L> ÊLÕà iÃÃÊ i>`iÀà «Êà à UÊ iÝ L iÊ> `ÊV Ûi i ÌÊÃV i`Õ i UÊ ÊÀià `i VÞÊÀiµÕ Ài i ÌÊv ÀÊ` ÃÌ> ViÊÃÌÕ`i Ìà UÊ *iÀà > Ê>ÌÌi Ì ÊvÀ Ê` ÃÌ }Õ Ã i`Êi`ÕV>Ì ÀÃ

- Ê ÌiÀ >Ì > ÞÊ >VVÀi` Ìi`Êà ViÊ£ Çä

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;/, (4,90*(5 <50=,9:0;@ 6- 964, University Graduates Prepared to Live and Work Across Cultures

AMERICAN BACHELOR OF ARTS BACHELOR OF SCIENCE ASSOCIATE OF ART DEGREES BACHELOR OF ARTS IN: (YJOLVSVN` *SHZZPJHS /LYP[HNL *VTT\UPJH[PVU -PST +PNP[HS 4LKPH 0U[LYUH[PVUHS 9LSH[PVUZ (Y[ /PZ[VY` 0U[LYKPZJPWSPUHY` :[\KPLZ 0[HSPHU :[\KPLZ BACHELOR OF SCIENCE IN: )\ZPULZZ (KTPUPZ[YH[PVU ASSOCIATE OF ARTS IN: 3PILYHS :[\KPLZ 0U[LYUH[PVUHS )\ZPULZZ

Via Pietro Roselli 4 00153 Rome, Italy tel: +39 06.58330919 info@aur.edu www.aur.edu The American University of Rome is regionally accredited by the Middle States Commission on Higher Education (MSCHE)

150_151_Hemi_Education Marketplace.indd 151

Co-ed

Boarding Program (6th-12th)

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1HU\HY` ,UYVSSTLU[ ;V\YZ (]HPSHISL PERSONAL GROWTH Character & Leadership Development | Multicultural Dedicated, Caring Faculty | Safe Environment

ADVANCED EDUCATION AP Classes | Dual Enrollment | Aviation | Jr. ROTC Marine Science | Small, Structured Classes

UNIQUE OPPORTUNITIES Sailing | SCUBA | Numerous Sports Weekend Excursions | Engineering Club

LEARN MORE Visit Us for a Campus Tour OR Check Our Admissions Travel Schedule for Possible Events Near You! www.farragut.org/events Beautiful waterfront campus located in sunny St. Petersburg, FL Admissions: (727) 384-5500 ext. 220

www.farragut.org

12/10/2010 13:49

MARKETPLACE

Columbia, Missouri Forbes Best Places for Business and Careers Richard Floridaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Creative Class List of Best Places for College Graduates and REDIâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s business-centric public/private partnership

Business and Success Call Mike to discuss your next winning move!

J. Michael Brooks, President, REDI 573/442.8303 jmbrooks@gocolumbiamo.com

www.columbiaredi.com

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | NOVEMBER 2010

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13/10/2010 14:50

premium offerings

Enjoy classic favorites and modern selections created especially for you.

RELAX AND ENJOY YOUR FLIGHT

With a food philosophy centered around contemporary American cuisine and culinary partnerships which include world renowned Chef Charlie Trotter and restaurant favorite Trader Vic’s, United offers traditional dishes with a modern twist, while also providing regional and ethnic items.

S I G N AT U R E V E G E TA R I A N S P R I N G R O L L Filled with fresh Mint, Cilantro, Carrot, Red Onion, English Cucumber and Rice Noodles. Served with Ginger Soy Sauce (pictured here).

Currently being served in United Business® class on most international flights departing the U.S.

»

Flip over the right page to enjoy

Dine Your Way You have two new ways to customize your dining experience on United: 1.

Spend more uninterrupted time working or relaxing by choosing Express Dine when flying United Business® class on transpacific, transatlantic and flights to/from South America. Refer to the printed menu on board for more information.

2.

Enjoy a sparkling wine brunch on select p.s.® flights departing between Los Angeles or San Francisco and New York. Available for purchase in United Economy.®

Doug Frost United’s distinguished Master Sommelier and Master of Wine This month Doug talks about our current domestic white wine offering … Batitu Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Chile – the Chilean wine industry has been a success story for two decades, but the quality of their wines has improved yet again in the last several years.

With Bordeaux-styled elegance already a proven matter, the wines are now gaining in fruit intensity.

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08/10/2010 08:36

AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE ON MOST NORTH AMERICAN FLIGHTS, EXCLUDING UNITED EXPRESS.®

TAPAS $ 8.49 • Oloves “Tasty Mediterranean” Olives • Milas Artichoke and Red Pepper Spread • Wild Garden Hummus • Rondele Cheese Parmesan Peppercorn Cheese

Snack boxes

• Fratelli Laurieri Scrocchi Al Rosmarino Crackers • Jacobs Cream Crackers • Partners Olive Oil and Sea Salt Crackers • Emerald Natural Almonds • Fantis Ouzo Candy Mint

CLASSIC $ 7.49 • Snyder’s of Hanover Mini Pretzels • Keebler Townhouse Crackers • Nabisco Oreo Cookie • Jelly Belly Assorted Flavors

ALL DAY ON MOST FLIGHTS OVER 2 HOURS

• Del Monte Vanilla Yogurt Raisin Fruit Snack • Austin Zoo Animal Crackers • Pepperidge Farm Goldfish • Dairyfoods Cheddar Spread

LITE $ 6.99 • Bumble Bee Lemon Pepper Tuna 2.9 oz • Stacy’s “Simply Naked” Pita Chips

A portion of the profits from the sale of the snack boxes will benefit United-sponsored breast cancer support and research charities.

• Asher’s Dark Chocolate Covered Pretzel • Musselman’s Unsweetened Apple Sauce

FRUIT AND YOGURT PARFAIT $ 5.49

CONTINENTAL BREAKFAST $ 6.29

breakfast

Low fat vanilla yogurt with fruit and granola.

Cinnamon raisin bagel, cream cheese, strawberry jam, strawberry yogurt and fruit & nut trail mix.

ON MOST MORNING FLIGHTS OVER 3 HOURS

Blend of 100% mixed fruits and berries.

MY SMOOTHIE $ 2.99

HAM AND SWISS CROISSANT $ 5.49 Served with dijonnaise sauce (served cold).

Kettle Classics potato chips served with Sandwiches and Wraps

lunch & dinner ON MOST AFTERNOON AND EVENING FLIGHTS OVER 3 HOURS

THAI CHICKEN WRAP $ 9.49

CHICKEN CAESAR SALAD $ 9.49

Grilled chicken breast, romaine lettuce, carrots, red and yellow bell pepper, Thai aioli sauce wrapped in a tortilla.

Grilled chicken, red and yellow bell pepper strips, parmesan cheese, romaine lettuce, caesar dressing and croutons.

HAM SANDWICH $ 8.99

FRUIT & CHEESE TRAY $ 6.99

Honey ham, provolone cheese, lettuce, mustard mayonnaise on a pretzel roll.

Pepper jack, gouda, cheddar, dried cranberries, apple slices, almonds, and assorted Pepperidge Farm crackers.

TURKEY SANDWICH $ 8.99 Smoked turkey, lettuce, sundried tomato aioli sauce on multigrain bread.

ala carte

PRINGLES $ 2.99

(2.6 oz can)

CRANBERRY WALNUT BREAD $ 2.99

United does not serve peanuts as snacks or use peanuts or peanut oils in foods served on our flights. However, we do serve vendor products manufactured in facilities that also produce items containing peanuts or peanut oils, and we do have snack mixes that contain other tree nuts, such as almonds and pistachios.

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CHOCOLOVE ® CHOCOLATE BAR $ 2.99 Almond & Sea Salt Dark Chocolate or Milk Chocolate.

Your feedback is welcomed via ualsurvey.com within seven days of your flight. United, Choice Menu, and EasyPurchase are trademarks of United. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. We apologize if your selection is not available on today’s flight.

08/10/2010 08:35

beverages AVAILABLE ON MOST UNITED FLIGHTS. SELECTIONS MAY VARY ACCORDING TO AVAILABILITY, CLASS OF SERVICE OR DESTINATION.

NON-ALCOHOLIC Complimentary on all United flights.

• Soft Drinks

• Milk

• Tonic Water

• Tea

• Seltzer Water

• Assorted Fruit Juices

• Spring Water

• Bloody Mary Mix

• Starbucks Regular & Decaffeinated Coffees

ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES Complimentary in United Business ® and United First.® Priced as shown in United Economy.®

bundles

HOUSE WINES

$

7

• Redwood Creek 2007 California Cabernet Sauvignon • Redwood Creek 2007 California Chardonnay

PREMIUM WINES

$

8

Domestic flights only: • Cheviot Bridge 2008 Australian Shiraz

ON MOST AFTERNOON AND EVENING FLIGHTS

• Cheviot Bridge 2008 Australian Chardonnay

Save up to 20%

Domestic United Business and United First may also choose:

SANDWICH BUNDLE $12.98

• Batitu Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Chile • Cheviot Bridge Chardonnay 2008 Adelaide Hills Australia

Your choice of one of our sandwiches with any beer or house wine.

Refer to printed menus for additional selections where applicable.

CHEESE AND WINE BUNDLE $11.98

BEER

Assorted cheese tray with your choice of house red or white wine.

• Miller Lite

TAPAS AND WINE BUNDLE $11.98 Tapas snackbox with your choice of house red or white wine.

$

6

• Miller Genuine Draft • Heineken

PREMIUM COCKTAIL

$

9

• Trader Vic’s Mai Tai (to/from Hawaii only)

SPIRITS

$

7

• Absolut Vodka (international flights only)

signature

cocktail

• Bacardi Rum • Canadian Club Reserve Whisky • Chivas Regal Scotch (international flights only) • Dewar’s White Label Scotch (domestic flights only) • Finlandia Vodka (domestic flights only) • Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey • Jim Beam Black Bourbon Whiskey

SUNRISE SUNSET 7

• Tanqueray Gin

Looking for something different? Try our Sunrise Sunset cocktail, created for you by United Flight Attendant Tita Martin. With cranberry apple juice, a splash of orange juice, a squeeze of lime and Vodka, it’s a great way to relax and enjoy your flight. Cheers!

LIQUEURS

$

$

7

• Bailey’s Irish Cream • Courvoisier VSOP Cognac • Disaronno Amaretto (international flights only) • Kahlúa Alcohol may be served to customers over 21 only. By FAA rule, we may not serve alcohol to customers who appear intoxicated.

Customers are limited to one alcoholic beverage at a time during service. Only alcohol provided by United and served by flight attendants may be consumed onboard.

United is proud to recycle cans and bottles used on board at most stations where our aircraft are catered.

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11/10/2010 09:06

Napoleon’s Fireplace Design Studio allows you to design, visualize and price the perfect fireplace for your home.

Available as an iPhone app or online. napoleonfireplaces.com/FDS

1-800-461-5581 • napoleonfireplaces.com

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16/09/2010 08/10/2010 10:33 14:49

NOVEMBER 2010 | UNITED.COM

158

in transitt

GETTING TO KNOW YOU ROBIN ABEYTA / Retiree WHY I’M TRAVELING / I just got off the Queen Mary II, and I’m heading home to Hawaii.

HOW WAS THE TRIP? /

So relaxing! I picked up the ship in Australia, went on to South Africa, Rio, Barbados and many other places. I spent thirty-nine days onboard, and it was fantastic.

HOW I FLY /

“I always take a crossword and a good book.”

On the long trip home, I always take a crossword and a good book.

BY ADAM K. RAYMOND

PHOTOGRAPH BY SASHA NIALLA

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No.30297 The Chadmar Croup.indd 1

12/10/2010 14:21

1860

1916

1969

2010

SCAN. EXPLORE.

FIND YOUR TAG HEUER

1860

Edouard Heuer founded his workshop in the Swiss Jura.

1916

First mechanical stopwatch accurate to 1/100th of a second.

1969

First automatic chronograph.

2010

TAG Heuer CARRERA Calibre 16 Day Date.

No.00000 TAG.indd 1

1.866.675.2080 www.tagheuer.com

13/10/2010 11:06