United Airlines Hemispheres Magazine September 2011

SEPTEMBER 2011

Hemisphe pheres

THREE PERFECT DAYS: BARCELONA • REBUILDING THE BOLSHOI THEATRE • THE HEMI Q&A WITH DONNA KARAN

GET ENCHANTED WITH BARCELONA IN THREE PERFECT DAYS

THE FALL FASHION ISSUE HIGH STYLE IN BIG SKY COUNTRY, FERRARI’S LATEST CONVERTIBLE, REBUILDING THE BOLSHOI THEATRE, THE HEMI Q&A WITH TRAILBLAZING DESIGNER DONNA KARAN, TENNESSEE’S FINEST HAM AND THE BEST NEW GADGETS FOR GAMERS ON THE MOVE

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Your Golden Angel

No one else can see it, but you know the secret of your Wellendorff ring – a little golden angel is hidden inside.

Read the whole story which inspired us to create this new collection at: www.wellendorff.com/goldenangel

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A true story: “One day a raging fire destroyed everything I possessed, including my beloved jewellery.

Only one piece survived the inferno practically undamaged: my Wellendorff necklace adorned with a golden angel.

After this fire, jewellery has a completely different meaning for me; because it proves that miracles do happen.�

Letter from Inga Lasmane of Riga, Latvia.

This letter is the inspiration for our new collection.

It came as a welcome reminder of the true value of jewellery: To offer joy and protection.

Wellendorff-Boutique San Francisco at Shreve & Co., 200 Post Street, tel. 415.860.4010.

For further details or how to find a Wellendorff jeweller near you, please contact Wellendorff, tel. 801.556.5206 or e-mail: usa@wellendorff.com, www.wellendorff.com

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AT LAST... A DOCK THAT MATCHES THE DEVICE Dock your iPod, iPhone or iPad in BeoSound 8. Or connect an MP3 player, PC or Mac and rediscover your music collection all over again only this time it will sound like you are sitting in the front row!

Start the experience at www.bang-olufsen.com or call 888 302 8192 for your closest showroom.

MSRP $999.00 iPod, iPhone and iPad are trademarks of Apple Inc., registered in the U.S. and other countries. Wall mount also available for BeoSound 8.

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11/07/2011 16:09

SEPTEMBER CONTENTS YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY

» 60 DANCE REVOLUTION After years of damage, neglect, scandal and corruption, Moscow’s beloved Bolshoi Theatre is poised to reclaim its place as the ballet world’s preeminent venue.

BY RACHEL STURTZ PHOTOGRAPHS BY OLYA IVANOVA

» 66

COUNTRY STRONG

Big skies. Wide open plains.

Rugged mountains. The dramatic landscape of Montana is nothing short of sublime, especially when it serves as a backdrop for Western styles from today’s top designers.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY JUCO

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THREE PERFECT DAYS: BARCELONA

It’s hard to say what’s more inspired: the dynamic architecture, the flavorful cuisine or the profoundly passionate locals.

Any way you look at it, the capital of Catalonia knows how to bring the heat.

PHOTOGRAPH BY JUCO

BY CHRIS WRIGHT PHOTOGRAPHS BY FRANCISCO GUERRERO

SADDLE UP The Ranch at Rock Creek is part of a new crop of Montana ranches catering to vacationers looking for rustic yet luxurious getaways

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • SEPTEMBER 2011

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SEPTEMBER CONTENTS YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY

8 COMMENTS 11 CEO LETTER A word from Jeff Smisek

31 ROAD TRIP Blasting through Brazil in a Ferrari California

50 BRIGHT IDEAS The Echo Nest will change the way we listen to music

BY MIKE GUY

BY ALYSSA GIACOBBE

DOWNLOAD OUR FREE IPAD APP FROM ITUNES

12 VOICES A message to flyers

35 HOW IT’S DONE Overhauling the Olmsted Locks and Dam

56 TECH New gaming devices to take on the road

SUBSCRIBE TO HEMISPHERES

14 CONNECTIONS What’s new at United

BY JACQUELINE DETWILER

BY TOM SAMILJAN

CULTURE

ENTERTAINMENT AND INFORMATION

For a free subscription to our monthly eMag and to access recent issues, go to HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

facebook.com/UnitedHemispheres twitter.com/hemispheresmag

THE WORLD 17 DISPATCHES Chilean wine’s big comeback; Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s fresh Bahama catch; freerunners land a home in L.A.; taking a walk high above Vancouver

37 THE BIG TEN Caricatures at the Met, Gus Van Sant’s latest tearjerker and what else to watch, read and listen to this month 43 GOODS Big bling and small boots

101 Movies, Television and Audio Programming 115 Route Maps and Terminal Diagrams 132 Crossword and Sudoku

BY JACQUELINE DETWILER

22 STAY Four legendary, luxurious grande dames 27 FOOD & DRINK Gourmands find their ultimate getaway in eastern Tennessee

136 Beverages & Food 46 THE HEMI Q&A Groundbreaking designer Donna Karan wants us to feel as good as we look

BY MIKE ALBO

BY KIRSTEN MATTHEW

ABOUT THE COVER: The detail shot of Güell Park (pictured above), designed by Antoni Gaudí and built between 1900 and 1914, was taken

by Francisco Guerrero

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WRITE TO US: Editorial@hemispheresmagazine.com • 68 Jay St., Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201

PHOTOGRAPHS BY TIM HURSLEY (KANSAS CITY), SYLVAIN SONNET/CORBIS (BARCELONA)

AHEAD OF THE CURVE The Moshe Safdie–designed Kauffman Center for the Performing Arts opens this month in Kansas City

SEPTEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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pheres Hemisp phe herres Hemisspher pheres Hemisspher pheres Hemisspher GET ILLUMINATED WITH THREE PERFECT DAYS IN ROME

REDISCOVER CHICAGO IN THREE PERFECT DAYS

GO GREEN WITH THREE PERFECT DAYS IN DUBLIN

THE FIRST ANNUAL FOOD ISSUE A FOODIE’S TOUR OF SINGAPORE

UNCOVER STOCKHOLM IN THREE PERFECT DAYS

FINDING (AND EATING) THE WORLD’S HOTTEST PEPPER THE HEMI Q&A WITH ALICE WATERS, GODMOTHER OF ORGANIC FOOD

JEFF BRIDGES’ NEW ALBUM, THE OBAMAS IN IRELAND AND THE BEST HOTELS FOR STARGAZING

ART DIRECTOR Christine Bower-Wright ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR

INVASION!

ONE MAN’S BATTLE AGAINST UNWANTED IGUANAS ON FLORIDA’S GULF COAST

Tim Vienckowski ART INTERN Valerie Waldbauer

FUNNY FACE

THE HEMI Q&A WITH COMEDIAN LOUIS C.K.

GET OUT! THE ANNUAL ADVENTURE ISSUE MAN VS. WILD’S BEAR GRYLLS IN THE HOT SEAT

SPANISH OLIVE OIL, THE CROSSFIT WORKOUT CRAZE AND THE WORLD’S COOLEST CLIFFSIDE HOTELS

PLUS: THE FIAT 500, THE BILLIONAIRE BEHIND VITAMINWATER AND WHAT TO WEAR IN PARIS THIS SPRING

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11/04/2011 15:52

EDITOR IN CHIEF Mike Guy EXECUTIVE EDITOR Joe Keohane MANAGING EDITOR Sam Polcer SENIOR EDITOR Jacqueline Detwiler FASHION EDITOR Nino Bauti

DRIVE TIME EIGHT OF THE WORLD’S COOLEST ROAD TRIPS • MR. BIG THE HEMI Q&A WITH BOSTON RED SOX SLUGGER DAVID “BIG PAPI” ORTIZ • PLUS SPACE-AGE ICE CREAM, A TRANS-ATLANTIC BICYCLE AND THE LOWDOWN ON LAKESIDE LODGES

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Cover to Cover

Jay Cheshes, Alyssa Giacobbe, Sarah Horne, Edward Lewine, Adam K. Raymond, Grant Stoddard, Matt Thompson CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS

Regular Hemispheres readers have noticed that the magazine has been evolving pre y steadily over the last few months, and few of the changes have been as striking as the design of our covers. A er years of using illustrations, we recently decided to make the switch to photography, using what Hemispheres art director Christine Bower-Wright dubs “travel abstracts.” These are vivid detail shots tied to our signature “Three Perfect Days” features. “They’re meant to pique your interest,” Bower-Wright says, “to give you an opportunity to question what you know about a place.” They’re also in line with our philosophy of travel: O entimes it’s the li le details that can make a trip so gratifying. For more information on this month’s cover, turn to page 6.

Jeffrey Decoster, Peter James Field, Oliver Jeffers, Alex Nabaum, Peter Oumanski, Steve Stankiewicz EXECUTIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Michael Keating U.S. EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

Orion Ray-Jones Ink, 68 Jay Street, Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 Tel: +1 347-294-1220 Fax: +1 917-591-6247 editorial@hemispheresmagazine.com hemispheresmagazine.com WEBMASTER Salah Lababidi ADVERTISING U.S. GROUP PUBLISHING DIRECTOR

Stephen Andrews VP STRATEGY AND BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Andrea Alexander ADVERTISING ACCOUNT MANAGERS

WHAT DO YOU THINK? WRITE TO US! Editorial@hemispheresmagazine.com Hemispheres Magazine 68 Jay St. Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201

Contributors

Frank Colonno, Robbin Gordon, Kevin Green, Danny Litton, Kristina Kurz, Dorie Leo, Mary Anne MaClean, Dave Madonia, Joe McHugh, Jack Miller, Jeff Miller, Stu Opfer, Marshall Rubin, Scott Stone, Caryn Tanis NORTHEAST ADVERTISING DIRECTOR

Brian McLaughlin HAWAII Robert Wiegand EUROPE Angus Urqhart ASIA Jacqueline Ho LATIN AMERICA Alejandro Salas SOUTH AMERICA Olivier Capoulade PRODUCTION MANAGER Joe Massey

Tel: +1 678-553-8091 PRODUCTION CONTROLLERS

Grace Dinwiddie, Stacy Willis MARKETING AND EVENTS MANAGER

Nikkole Wyrick SALES AND MARKETING COORDINATOR Melinda Hanna

RACHEL STURTZ lives in Seattle, where she writes for publications like Women’s Health, Runner’s World and Allure. She remains unconvinced that hitting a ballet standard of 98 pounds would be worth skipping the borscht and blini of Moscow, which she enjoyed while writing this month’s profile of the Bolshoi Theatre (“Dance Revolution,” page 60).

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JUCO, the firm that shot this month’s Montana fashion spread (“Country Strong,” page 66), represents the collaborative work of Julia Galdo and Cody Cloud.

According to them, one of the highlights of this assignment was meeting Bob, “a massive horse with the gentlest personality.” They are based in Los Angeles.

CHRIS WRIGHT is a freelance journalist living on Spain’s Costa Blanca. Although he has been in print media for the better part of two decades, working everywhere from Boston to Dubai, his article in this issue (“Three Perfect Days: Barcelona,” page 78) contains his first-ever interview with a meteorologist, an accomplishment of which he is immensely proud.

Ink (sales), Capital Building, 255 East Paces Ferry Road, Suite 400, Atlanta, GA 30305 Tel: +1 888-864-1733 Fax: +1 917-591-6247 Ink CEO Jeffrey O’Rourke COO Hugh Godsal PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Simon Leslie HEMISPHERES is produced monthly by Ink. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions expressed in Hemispheres are not necessarily those of the Publisher or United Airlines, and United Airlines does not accept any responsibility for advertising content. Neither United, its subsidiaries nor affiliates guarantees the accuracy, completeness or timeliness of, or otherwise endorses these facts, views, opinions or recommendations, gives investment advice, or advocates the purchase or sale of any security or investment. You should always seek the assistance of a professional for tax and investment advice. Any images are supplied at the owner’s risk. Any mention of United Airlines or the use of United Airlines logo by any advertiser in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company or its products or services by United Airlines.

SEPTEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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11/08/2011 09:26

REIMAGINED. REDESIGNED.

READY TO

MOVE YOU. Introducing the 2012 nüvi® line from garmin garmin.com/move

NASDAQ GRMN ©2011 Garmin Ltd. or its subsidiaries. All rights reserved.

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© 2011 United Air Lines, Inc. All rights reserved.

Place your expectations in the upright position.

The world’s leading route network. Unparalleled service. World-class lounges, a modern fleet, an award-winning loyalty program and the finest people in the business. It’s the best parts of two successful carriers...now United. For information and reservations, go to united.com.

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05/08/2011 09:53

CEO LETTER

Investing in Our Future WELCOME ABOARD, and thank you for choosing United for your flight today.

At the new United, we are investing significantly in our onboard product as we continue to integrate our two companies to create the world’s leading airline. Although we continue to operate as separate airlines for now, we have some exciting enhancements that we’re making to both carriers’ fleets.

We are gearing up to add Economy Plus seating to the entire mainline fleet of our Continental subsidiary, and the Boeing 767-400s will be the first aircra to get this popular feature. We are also completely retrofitting our popular p.s. service aircra with a nose-to-tail renovation, including flat-bed seats, Economy Plus, audio and video on demand and Wi-Fi. In addition, we will be installing flat-bed seats, audio and video on demand and in-seat power on the 767-400s we use for long-haul international service.

We are also working to complete

the installation of flat-bed seats in the premium cabins of the rest of our international fleet. We already have flat-bed seats and audio and video on demand on over 120 aircra , more than any of our US competitors, and when we are done, wherever you fly with us on long-haul international flights, we will offer you a flat-bed seat in our premium cabins.

On the domestic front, because space and convenience are important to you, we are expanding the overhead bins in the Airbus 319 and 320 aircra , nearly doubling the capacity for carry-on bags, and refreshing the interiors of those aircraft. You will also begin to notice first-class seating on our Q400 regional aircra . We also have signed a le er of intent to install Ka band wireless broadband on our aircra featuring DirecTV, and have plans to install wireless access across our entire mainline fleet.

We will also be adding the highly popular Channel 9 audio service to the Continental mainline fleet. Channel 9

permits customers to listen to inflight communications between our pilots and air traffic control.

Our inflight product is only part of the experience that we are improving.

We will be introducing our rebranded lounge program, the United Club, in a couple of months, and have plans to refurbish and upgrade lounges across the system. We are investing in our facilities, including installing jet-bridges for our regional aircra at O’Hare, building a new terminal for our regional aircra in Houston (as part of our planned multi-year, $1 billion investment in our Houston gateway hub) and upgrading baggage systems at our hubs to improve bag service for our customers.

While we are making great progress in our integration, our most important goal is to always provide clean, safe and reliable transportation to our customers.

We appreciate your business and look forward to having you onboard again soon.

Thanks again for flying with us today.

PRESIDENT AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER, UNITED AIRLINES

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • SEPTEMBER 2011

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VOICES

Pursuing Plan A When you have a passion for flying, the dream is worth the sacrifice. BY A. AVERYL RE DONALD TURNER just naturally stands out. Thanks to his uniform and the fact that he’s six and a half feet tall, the Houston-based first officer draws a fair amount of attention when he walks through the airport, which is a good thing for bewildered passengers trying to make their way around the terminal.

“I hate rushing, and I’m normally early, so if I see someone who needs some help, I’ll say, ‘I’m going that way, I’ll show you,’” Turner says. “We’re in the service industry. We forget sometimes that people don’t fly every day. This may be the first time they’ve been to the airport in five years. Imagine if that’s your mother.

Somebody on earth loves them dearly, and I try to remember that.”

In a journey that took him from his boyhood in New Orleans, where he watched Navy planes fly overhead, to the flight deck of the Boeing 757s and

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767s he flies today, Turner has stood out in another way: in the tenacity and hard work it took him to get there. He sums up these qualities by saying, “This is what I wanted to do. There was no Plan B, except that Plan B was to make Plan A work.”

Turner and his wife Tacanesha worked their way through Texas Southern University, where Donald pursued a degree in aviation management. In his second year, he met Continental Captain Roscoe Edwards, who volunteered to teach him how to fly.

Full-time school, full-time work and a growing family didn’t keep Turner from earning his degree and furthering his training at Western Michigan University.

Although he finished training in 2002 in the wake of 9/11, he was determined to “do something with planes” until he accumulated enough hours to try for a position as a pilot.

Looking back on the long road to his dream, Turner says he wouldn’t change anything because the struggle made him who he is. “Going through it, you get discouraged. When things don’t go your way, it can be heartbreaking,” Turner says. “I hear statistics that only 6 percent of the population is doing what they really love.

I fit in with the 6 percent, but I can relate to the 94 percent. Sometimes you have to do a lot of what you don’t want to do to get to do what you want to do.”

That perspective is one reason Turner believes he is good at his job, and it stands as a constant reminder of the value of the people who choose to fly with the airline.

“People aren’t paying for a jet ride.

They’re paying for an experience,” he says. “As much as I can, I try to make flying a good experience. I try to make it a smooth ride. I want to treat my passengers like gold because I appreciate every single one of them. Without them,” he adds with a smile, “I would have to get a real job.”

Along with the joys of doing something he really loves, Turner says one thing he has had to adjust to is standing out simply because of the uniform he puts on.

“I had this one lady come up to me and grab my hand. She had to be in her mid-80s. She said, ‘Baby, I’m sorry, but I just had to grab your hand. I’ve never seen a black pilot before.’” Turner pauses when he tells this story, before he goes on. “Things like that humble you because they let you know that you are always being watched. I always try to put my best foot forward.”

Turner uses his visibility as a pilot as much as he can by reaching out to young people who are now where he once was—in school and needing encouragement to pursue their dreams. He volunteered for two years at Sterling, the Houston Independent School District aviation magnet high school. He also travels around the country on his own time to speak at schools and universities.

“How can I refuse?” he asks. “So many people helped me along the way. I don’t consider it work. This is what I’m supposed to do.”

SEPTEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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CONNECTIONS

Unmatched Travel Benefits The new MileagePlus Explorer Card provides exclusive privileges As part of the continued progress we are making to create the world’s leading airline, we recently announced that MileagePlus will be the loyalty program at the new United beginning in 2012. Moving to a single loyalty program is a significant step in the integration of United and Continental.

After choosing a single loyalty program, we unveiled the all-new MileagePlus Explorer Card in partnership with Chase Card Services, which provides exclusive airline privileges and unmatched travel benefits when cardholders fly on United. The card also provides other benefits that extend throughout our customers’ entire travel experience.

Just a few of the perks include first checked bag free, priority boarding, complimentary United airport club passes and more award seat redemption options. The MileagePlus Explorer Card benefits are also available on the Continental Airlines OnePass Plus Card.

Our partnership with Chase enables MileagePlus members to earn even more miles with

their everyday spending, which can be redeemed for travel on United and all 27 Star Alliance member airlines, as well as for hotel stays, car rentals and merchandise.

The new MileagePlus Explorer Card was designed for those looking to enhance their entire travel experience; it is truly unmatched in the marketplace in the access it delivers and value it offers to United customers.

The card also offers a comprehensive suite of travel protection benefits, including trip cancellation and trip delay coverage, auto rental collision damage waivers, roadside assistance and 24/7 travel emergency services.

So go ahead, be an explorer and see all that the new MileagePlus credit card has to offer.

ASK THE PILOT With Captain Mike Bowers

Q: What do the chimes we hear in the cabin after takeoff and before landing signify?

A: The chime sound onboard the aircraft is one of several ways for the pilots to communicate with the flight attendants. We also have interphone and public address functions available to us. For routine operations we use the chimes because they are less distracting for the pilots and more accessible to the flight attendants.

The chimes you hear when passing 10,000 feet while climbing let the flight attendants know that they can announce the use of approved electronic devices and also that they can begin their service. On descent, they mean just the opposite, that the flight attendants can announce the end of electronics usage and that they need to terminate their service and prepare the cabin for landing.

Do you have a question for Captain Bowers? Write to him at askthepilot@ united.com

For more information about the United MileagePlus Explorer Card, or to apply, visit www.UnitedExplorerCard.com or call 1-888-744-6899. The $95 annual fee for the new MileagePlus Explorer Card will be waived for the first year on a promotional basis.

New MileagePlus Explorer Cards will exclusively be Visa cards. Fees for additional/ oversize/overweight bags will apply. Purchase of ticket(s) with MileagePlus Explorer Card required. See www.united.com/chasebag for details.

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SEPTEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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1-800-760-4305, ext. Q8296 or visit Bose.com/QC *Bose payment plan available on orders of $299-$1500 paid by major credit card. Separate financing offers may be available for select products. See website for details. Down payment is 1/12 the product price plus applicable tax and shipping charges, charged when your order is shipped. Then, your credit card will be billed for 11 equal monthly installments beginning approximately one month from the date your order is shipped, with 0% APR and no interest charges from Bose. Credit card rules and interest may apply. U.S. residents only. Limit one active financing program per customer. ©2011 Bose Corporation. The distinctive design of the headphone oval ring is a trademark of Bose Corporation. Financing and free shipping offers not to be combined with other offers or applied to previous purchases, and subject to change without notice. Risk free refers to 30-day trial only, requires product purchase and does not include return shipping. Delivery is subject to product availability. Quote reprinted with permission.

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01/06/2011 15:19

THE WORLD FAC TS T R E NDS ND D S NE WS

—LISSA HARRIS

COLCHAGUA, CHILE

Shaken, and Stirred Chile’s wine country bounces back THOMAS WILKINS BIGGS had been asleep for barely 15 minutes when the world came undone. The managing director for Viñas de Colchagua, a winemakers’ association in Chile’s Colchagua Valley, Biggs had been up late into the night entertaining guests before dutifully returning home with his wife’s requested chocolate. At around 3:35 a.m. he awoke to the sounds of walls and ceilings buckling, paintings falling and his daughters crying. “The movement was incredible,” he remembers, gazing away.

Last year’s historic 8.8-magnitude earthquake collapsed bridges, split INFOGRAPHIC BY GAVIN POTENZA

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buildings and shi ed the Earth’s figure axis by three inches. Once the human toll had been calculated (Biggs’ family was unscathed), a ention shi ed to Chile’s industries, especially wine. The fifthlargest exporter of bo led wine to the U.S., Chile has majestic growing regions beloved for their high-quality vintages at wallet-friendly prices. But its postquake losses were significant: Toppled tanks and scattered barrels spilled 125 million liters at a cost of a quarter of a billion dollars. Observers questioned the industry’s future.

Today, the damage can still be seen, but just barely. With a remarkably resilient a itude found across Colchagua, Chile’s vineyards have rebounded. Century-old adobe walls have been rebuilt to modern standards, tanks are now secured to both the ceiling and floor to achieve some earthquake resistance, and the industry even posted around a 12 percent increase in exports since the quake, according to Wines of Chile. “We had to show all the people who believe in us that we can make it,” says Biggs. “There was no time for crying.” —MICHAEL B. DOUGHERTY HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • SEPTEMBER 2011

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DISPATCHES

JEAN-GEORGES VONGERICHTEN stands in the kitchen of Dune, his 10-year-old restaurant at the One&Only Ocean Club on Paradise Island in the Bahamas, and admires a piece of grouper.

“Look at the color,” he says, in French-accented English. “It’s almost like mother of pearl.” Indeed, below the surface of the silvery meat there are hints of green and purple. “Out of the Chef Jean-Georges’ big catch water at 10 this morning,” he says approvingly (at 4 p.m.).

BY JOE KEOHANE There’s a good story behind that fish. Just over a decade ago, when he was launching Dune, the celebrity chef and owner of dozens of restaurants traveled under the bridge leading to Paradise Island to look for a noted local spearfisherman named Allen Brown. But when Jean-Georges asked to buy his fish from Brown (with a stack of cash in his pocket), the man refused. He had dealt with big hotels and their bounteous red tape before and didn’t need the hassle. Undeterred, Jean-Georges invited Brown up for a meal. To make a point, he cooked a signature dish using frozen grouper, and the results so horrified Brown that he agreed to work with Dune—if only to stave off any further piscine abominations. “Since then he’s come in with fish every day,” says Jean-Georges, grinning.

In a ma er of minutes, the grouper is done, served just a bit crispy on the outside in a sauce of Tabasco, soy sauce, bu er, vinegar, ketchup and a splash of lime. He got the idea years ago from a pushcart vendor in Thailand.

“Best sauce in the world,” he says, and takes a bite. Even with a restaurant empire in his charge, this is what makes him happiest. “I still do five, six hours a day in the kitchen,” he says. “It’s my therapy. It’s what I do.”

NASSAU, BAHAMAS

Fish Story

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ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER OUMANSKI

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THE WORLD || Dispatches

VANCOUVER

LOOK OUT BELOW Canucks keep an eye on the sky

Off the Wall FREERUNNERS TAKE L.A.

Running across a rubbery red gym floor, Gabriel Nunez, a 27-yearold freerunner whose Matrix-like stunts have appeared in The Green Hornet and The Expendables, takes a flying leap over a three-foot-tall vault using one hand. The dozen students standing around him nod in appreciation. “You don’t want to be too close to the block,” Nunez says.

“You can do whatever you’d like with that foot; I personally like to slice it.”

This is the Tempest Freerunning Academy, a new 7,000-square-foot indoor playground situated 30 miles outside of downtown L.A. It’s the first of its kind in North America dedicated to freerunning, a new sport that builds on parkour, the improvisational street sport that Nunez wryly describes as “the craft of moving through one’s environment in the most efficient and safe way possible”—only adding an array of injury-defying flips and twists.

After class, open gym commences, and the warehouse starts to look like a surreal superhero training camp. Men (and it is mostly men; there are only two female participants) run up walls and perform front flips on the floor. They hop from the floor to the roof of the bathroom, leap from there into a giant foam pit, and skip alongside a small wall painted to look just like the brick ones in Super Mario Bros.

“You are constantly testing yourself on a new obstacle or in a new environment,” says Nunez of freerunning’s appeal. “Not a lot of other sports constantly push you to try something outside of the box. This one,” he says, as people fly through the air around him, “definitely does.” —TRICIA ROMANO

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Opens September 15

September 23-24

BERLIN • If Buckminster Fuller designed bounce castles, they might look something like Tomas Saraceno’s installations on display at the Hamburger Bahnhof Museum. hamburgerbahnhof.de

SEOUL • The beat goes on at the Seoul Drum Festival, a massive celebration of all things percussive, featuring team and solo performances, a market and a parade. seouldrum.go.kr

Jared Martin climbs into the trees each morning in the green hills above Vancouver, where he oversees an a raction that is both the city’s oldest and its newest: an 1889 suspension bridge 300 feet above the bo om of a canyon carved by the Capilano River, alongside an even more impressive glass-bo omed walkway held in place by cables bolted to the 160 million-year-old granite rock face.

The exhilarating new draw, Cliffwalk, which opened for a test run this past summer, is a 700-foot maze of suspended stairs, decks and 20-inch-wide bridges hanging 30 stories over this West Coast rainforest on a cliff so steep its builders had to include a special platform near the start for stricken visitors who want to turn back. With eagles wheeling above and salmon swimming in the rapids below, Cliffwalk “gives you that extra sense of awe and fascination,” Martin says. Though bouncing is verboten, the concept is a nod to a video-game generation that expects additional adrenaline in its nature walks. “At the exit, all I hear is, ‘Wow.’ People don’t stop to smell the flowers so much anymore—or, in this case, the trees. And that’s what we’re trying to give them an opportunity to do: tap back into nature.”

Cliffwalk is open yearround, but it’s at its most intimate early in the morning and during the off season, especially in December, when its living Christmas trees are decorated for the holidays. As for Martin, he goes there every day. “My office is the forest,” he says. “I can’t really complain.”

—JON MARCUS

September 29November 5 NEW YORK • NYC's favorite haunted house returns with a fairy tale theme. Don’t let that fool you; it’ll be terrifying. hauntedhousenyc.com

October 6-9 ATLANTA • Catch rap supergroup Random Axe as well as local up-and-comers like Aleon Craft at the A3C Hip Hop Festival, the largest such event in the Southeast. a3cfestival.com

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF TOMAS SARACENO (BERLIN), BY CHUNG SUNG-JUN/GETTY IMAGES (SEOUL)

CHATSWORTH, CALIF.

SEPTEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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STAY

Amazing Grace These perfect examples of timeless elegance have stayed ahead of the pack by keeping one eye on tradition and the other on modern luxury

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WHEN IT WAS FOUNDED BLUE HEAVEN The St. Regis New more than a century ago by York’s Grand Luxe John Jacob Astor IV, the St. Regis New York Room, which was redesigned in 2006 immediately became a beloved landmark, thanks to its Beaux Arts exterior, elegant public spaces and first-class service. Nothing much has changed, save for some welcome upgrades, including a 2006 interior redesign, led by Sills Huniford, featuring St. Regis hallmarks like silk wall coverings and Waterford crystal chandeliers.

With more renovations forthcoming, not to mention the on-site Adour Alain Ducasse still receiving breathless praise (it opened in 2008, eons ago in New York restaurant years), it’s clear that this grande dame hasn’t slowed down a bit. starwoodhotels.com/stregis NEW YORK

SEPTEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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THE WORLD || Stay

PARIS

Embellish a Parisian getaway with a taste of the haute life Set just off Avenue George V, in the chic center of Paris, and operated by the Four Seasons, the George V is a plush classic so ornate—velvet curtains, crystal candelabra chandeliers, marble tubs the size of Citroëns—that you’ll find yourself feeling très agréable after just a few moments in the very cozy king-size beds. The George V was built in 1928 and housed Gen. Eisenhower during the liberation of Paris. Today, there’s a perfectly appointed spa, and Le Cinq, the restaurant in the lobby, has earned two Michelin stars 12 years running. Even younger guests need not feel left out: The hotel offers a milk-and-cookies service. Zut alors! fourseasons.com/paris

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF THE PROPERTIES

FOUR SEASONS HOTEL GEORGE V

YOU CAN’T HOLD DOWN THE FORT. #1 BEST PLACE IN THE NATION to get ahead Forbes Magazine, February 2010

Projected to LEAD THE GREATER HOUSTON REGION – and be 5TH IN THE NATION – in job creation through 2015, averaging more than 3% growth per year Woods & Poole Economics, 2011

To receive more information about Fort Bend County, text FORT to 22333.

FortBendCounty.com GREATER HOUSTON’S FINEST ADDRESS.

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05/08/2011 15:34

Stay || THE WORLD

TOKYO

NEW ORLEANS

IMPERIAL HOTEL

THE ROOSEVELT

Royal digs and a bygone tradition of impeccable service

The pride of NOLA makes a brilliant comeback

When the royal family comes to Tokyo, they stay at the Imperial (the Japanese Princess Sayako was married here in 2005). The luxurious tower is actually in its third iteration— fire and structural deterioration having destroyed the first two—but this one’s here to stay. Made of marble and brass, no expense was spared in its reconstruction, and the staff practices a type of singular service from old ryokan inns that has all but disappeared. imperialhotel.co.jp

A er being shu ered indefinitely in the wake of Hurricane Katrina, this historic 19th-century hotel—so beloved by notorious Louisiana governor Huey Long that he built a new road here from Baton Rouge just to facilitate his visits—was restored to its former glory by Waldorf Astoria.

Today, guests can sip Huey’s beloved Ramos gin fizzes in the elegant Sazerac Bar, which adjoins a gilded lobby the size of a city block. therooseveltneworleans.com

151 W E S T 5 4 T H S T R E E T

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T H E U LT I M AT E R E T R E AT LONDON SUITES FROM $ 39 9 PER NIGHT

For reservations, please call 888.LONDNYC or visit us at TheLondonNYC.com. Luxury Suite shown: The London Sky Apartment.

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Palm Tree Pendant with Diamonds

Matching Earrings available

Various sizes available Available in 14K Yellow, White or Rose Gold

OAHU: Ala Moana Center t Outrigger Waikiki on Kalakaua Avenue (across from International Market Place) Waikiki Beachwalk t Hilton Hawaiian Village MAUI: Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center t Lahaina Cannery t The Shops at Wailea t Whalers Village Front Street (2 locations) t Hyatt Regency Maui t Grand Wailea Resort KAUAI: Poipu Shopping Village t Grand Hyatt Kauai BIG ISLAND OF HAWAII: Kona Marketplace t Kings’ Shops t Hilton Waikoloa Village NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINE: Pride of America BOSTON: Natick Collection t Northshore Mall CHICAGO: Oakbrook Center t Woodfield Mall DALLAS: NorthPark Center DENVER: Cherry Creek Shopping Center LOS ANGELES: Glendale Galleria t Northridge Fashion Center NEW YORK: Roosevelt Field ORLANDO: The Mall at Millenia PHILADELPHIA: The Plaza at King of Prussia PLEASANTON: Stoneridge Mall PORTLAND: Washington Square SAN DIEGO: Fashion Valley t Horton Plaza SAN FRANCISCO: Pier 39 SAN JOSE: Valley Fair SEATTLE: Bellevue Square WASHINGTON, D.C.: Tysons Corner Center

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01/08/2011 08:32

FOOD & DRINK

PHOTOGRAPH BY BEALL AND THOMAS PHOTOGRAPHY

WALLAND, TENN.

A luxury resort in Tennessee puts back-to-the-land foodies at the center of the action

BY KIRSTEN MATTHEW

DRIVE 45 MINUTES SOUTH OF KNOXVILLE SMOKY FLAVORS Sumac-dusted bison on Highway 321 and there, in the foothills with chanterelle of the Great Smoky Mountains, you’ll find mushrooms, beets, a boutique hotel that’s something akin to spinach and hazelnuts a sleepaway camp for foodies.

It doesn’t come cheap—one night, including meals, at Blackberry Farm starts at $795 per couple—but almost any culinary yearning can be catered to. There are six acres of vegetable gardens where guests can pick tomatoes and peppers; two awardwinning restaurants with chefs happy to hang with patrons; an on-site forager who will guide visitors toward wild mushrooms; the Larder, where staffers explain how to make jams, jellies and sauces; and cheesemakers, butchers and bakers all primed to share their secrets. As this is a working farm, fall is prime time to get your hands dirty.

“In September we’re harvesting everything, and our preservation kitchen is going crazy making jams, jellies and pickles; our sausages are being made,” says Sam Beall, owner of Blackberry Farm. “It’s when we’re at our busiest.”

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • SEPTEMBER 2011

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THE WORLD || Food & Drink

COUNT SHEEP Sundown at Blackberry Farm, a working farm/boutique hotel

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HAMMING IT UP Allan Benton, owner of Benton’s Smoky Mountain Country Hams

Where Pigs Fly America’s top chefs can’t get enough Tennessee hog BACON AND OTHER PIECES OF PORKY GOODNESS have been having a moment in American cuisine of late (bacon-flavored ice cream, anyone?).

And chances are good that if you’re eating pork in one of the country’s best restaurants, it came from Allan Benton, of Madisonville, Tenn.

Benton’s company, Benton’s Smoky Mountain Country Hams, has been smoking bacon and aging hams for the last 38 years. A er a rough

SHINE ON Tennessee’s hidden hooch can now be distilled and sampled in broad daylight Just over a year ago, Tennessee’s first legal moonshine distillery opened in Gatlinburg, and since then, Ole Smoky Moonshine has been churning out the same hooch that once had to be obtained on the sly.

It’s not for the faint of liver, that’s for sure. There are 100-proof varieties (and others that are made

PHOTOGRAPH BY BEALL AND THOMAS PHOTOGRAPHY (BLACKBERRY FARM AND BENTON’S), PATRICK MURPHY-RACEY PHOTOGRAPHY (MOONSHINE)

Beall’s parents purchased the 4,200acre property in 1976 and ran a successful hotel there, but when Beall became proprietor in 2001, he’d spent a few years living in California, where he worked at The French Laundry. Naturally, he wanted to ramp up Blackberry’s gourmet offerings.

So the 35-year-old father of four increased the kitchen garden from a quarter acre to six and hired a team of gardeners to tend it. He bought chickens and a herd of sheep, which provide milk for the homemade cheese.

He lured charcutiers, chocolatiers and preserving specialists. Around 100 employees work to produce the establishment’s edible offerings, including the high-end products—truffled quail eggs, onion jam—that are available at Williams-Sonoma. Up to 90 percent of the produce served in the two restaurants is grown on the farm; this month that means plenty of heirloom tomatoes, eggplant, shiitake mushrooms and black walnuts.

Beall has also enticed world-renowned chefs like Alain Ducasse to an 18thcentury Amish barn on the property for three-day cooking demonstrations and feasts for guests. This month, Judy Rodgers, chef and co-owner of San Francisco’s famed Zuni Café, will be visiting.

Lazy gourmands can forgo the classes and outings and just eat. And this being a luxury resort, the pool and spa are popular hangouts. But most guests don’t sit still for long, Beall says.

“They no longer want to sit in a rocking chair—they want to be challenged and inspired,” he says. “These days, cheesemaking is as popular as the spa.”

SEPTEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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start, word spread about the taste of Benton’s hogs, and chefs from all over the country came calling. These days his protein graces plates at 80 restaurants in Manha an (including Tom Colicchio’s Craft and David Chang’s Momofuku eateries), Absinthe in San Francisco, Chicago’s Table Fifty-Two and John Besh’s New Orleans spots.

Benton produces 14,000 hams and 35,000 bacon bu s each year, all from Berkshire pigs mixed with heritage breeds like Tamworth and Red Wa le, which have more fat and marble. He sells his product online, too, so keen home cooks can get ahold of it wherever they are in the country.

With a staff of 10, Benton’s is a streamlined operation. “We’re embarrassingly small,” says Benton. “We’re a hole-in-thewall business. It’s never been my goal to make a lot of ham or bacon; it’s to make exquisite ones.”

The Ultimate Steak Experience!

St. Elmo Steak House McKendrick’s stelmos.com Steak House mckendricks.com

INDIANAPOLIS, IN 317.635.0636

PROPRIETORS: Steve Huse & Craig Huse

ATLANTA, GA 770.512.8888

PROPRIETORS: Claudia & Doug McKendrick,

III Forks

Rick Crowe

iiiforks.com

Malone’s

DALLAS, TX 972.267.1776

malonesrestaurant.com

PROPRIETOR: Chris Vogeli

HOUSTON, TX 713.658.9457

LEXINGTON, KY 859.335.6500

PROPRIETORS: Brian McCarty & Bruce Drake

PROPRIETOR: Oz Rogers

Metropolitan Grill

Manny’s

themetropolitangrill.com

mannyssteakhouse.com

SEATTLE, WA 206.624.3287

MINNEAPOLIS, MN 612.339.9900

PROPRIETOR: Ron Cohn

PROPRIETORS: Phil Roberts, Peter Mihajlov

& Kevin Kuester

RingSide Steakhouse RingSideSteakhouse.com

Grill 225 only seasonally), including the classic Corn Whiskey, made from a century-old family recipe that uses only corn grown in the eastern part of the state; White Lightning, which is distilled six times and is designed to be drunk with mixers because it packs such a punch; and Moonshine Cherries, which comes in a jar filled with maraschinos for snacking on while sipping. The liquor is distilled on-site and sold in the Ole Smoky store. You can buy it online too—but you don’t get the free tastings that come with visiting the source.

PORTLAND, OR 503.223.1513

grill225.com

PROPRIETORS: Jan, Scott & Craig Peterson

CHARLESTON, SC 843.266.4222

PROPRIETOR: Nick Palassis EXECUTIVE CHEF: Demetre Castanas

Benjamin Steak House benjaminsteakhouse.com

Gene & Georgetti geneandgeorgetti.com

CHICAGO, IL 312.527.3718

PROPRIETORS: Tony & Marion Durpetti

NEW YORK, NY 212.297.9177

PROPRIETOR: Benjamin Prelvukaj CHEF: Arturo McLeod

INDEPENDENTLY OWNED AND OPERATED

www.GreatSteakofNA.com

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10/08/2011 09:08

ROAD TRIP

S Ã O PAU L O

SUZANO

FERRY TERMINAL

HOTEL UNIQUE

AT L A N T I C OCEAN

SE

R

RA

DO

M

AR

SANTOS G UA RUJÁ

SÃO PAULO, BRAZIL

MAP BY VALERIE WALDBAUER

California Dreaming The new Ferrari California, an exquisite V-8 convertible, conquers the traffic of São Paulo

BY MIKE GUY

AS FAR AS MEGACITIES go, São Paulo is arguably the least driveable. There are 20 million residents and well over 5 million vehicles. But on a Sunday, at the end of a long holiday weekend, the traffic is only slightly clogged along the Avenida Vinte e Três de Maio, the main artery out of the city. The concierge at the Hotel Unique (a hotel that lives up to its name; it is dark and stylish inside, with a cavernous lobby and popular roof deck, and it looks from the outside like a stone lemon wedge balancing on its rind) says that this is the quietest he’s ever seen São Paulo.

“Listen,” he says, dramatically looking around the entrance as though we’re being watched. “You don’t even hear any helicopters.”

Just then I hear the rumble of my ride, and the valet arrives with my stunning 2012 Ferrari California. Amid the high stone walls of the hotel and the gravel driveway, the cherry-red GT is a burst of sexy color. Based on the 250 Ferrari California (you’ll remember it as the car HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • SEPTEMBER 2011

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SEPTEMBER CROSSWORD ANSWERS

that flew out the window in Ferris Bueller’s Day Off), the California is a hardtop convertible with a 4.3-liter V-8—the smallest Ferrari on the road.

It is low-slung, with a grille just above the ground, a satisfyingly macho stance, and two round LED taillights that are reassuringly classic Ferrari.

However, rolling out into the light São Paulo traffic, it doesn’t feel diminished in the least. Unlike most Ferraris, whose engines are mounted just behind the seats, the California (back seats come optional) has its V-8 under the hood.

Leaning back in the plush leather, I grab the wheel, which has ride selector switches meant to echo the Ferrari Formula 1 car, and blast into the traffic.

By the time I reach the city limits on the highway, I’ve collected a conga line of sports cars jockeying to get a good look. There are just four Ferrari dealerships on the entire continent of South America, so even though there’s a broad swath of wealthy residents in the city (hence the abundance of helicopters hopping over the snarled traffic), a Ferrari sighting is about as

FERRARI CALIFORNIA The bells and whistles Starting Price: $192,000 Engine: 4.3-liter V-8, mounted in the front of the car Performance: Generating over 450 horsepower, the California will go from zero to 60 in under four seconds and hit a top speed of 193 mph. (So we’re told; there are laws aws in Brazil, you know.)

Interior: Lots of luxurious ous leather and a cool “manettino” steering wheel with a built-in shift light and ride

32

adjustment dial, just like the Scuderia Ferrari F1 car.

Perks: The retractable hardtop is a first for Ferrari. While that may cause hardcore Maranello purists to scoff, we think it’s stylish.

common as a cowboy hat.

The road twists out toward the coast, through lush jungles that cleverly conceal the state’s industrial belt. Eventually, we reach the coastal town of Bertioga, where I pull up to a ferry terminal.

“That’s a Ferrari?” asks the first mate, as the barge ties up and townspeople stream on. Yes it is. “Then you pay twice,” he says. Why? “It’s a superstition.” I comply. It’s only $1, which is a bargain compared with the price tag on the car itself (a handsome $192,000).

On the resort island of Guarujá, the tarmac winds through pine forests until we hit the beaches and the old colonial Casa Grande hotel on Avenida Miguel Stéfano. The valet happily takes the keys to the California, and as I sit down to a dinner of chilled crab legs caught just an hour earlier, I can hear the engine rev from down the street. Ferris Bueller, indeed.

MIKE GUY’s first ride in a Ferrari (an F355

Spider in 1997) ended with a stern talking-to from the local authorities.

PHOTOGRAPH BY CAROLIA/GETTY IMAGES (BEACH)

STORMING THE BEACH Praia Itaguaré in Bertioga, in the state of São Paulo

SEPTEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM ERE E S MA ES MAG M AG A G AZI AZ A ZII N Z NE. NE E.COM E CO CO OM M

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METHODIST HOSPITAL THE

Most in Texas – for the fifth year in a row.

HOSPITALS NATIONAL NEUROLOGY & NEUROSURGERY

2011 -12

For the 19th year in a row, U.S.News & World Report recognizes The Methodist Hospital as a “Best Hospital.” Honored in 11 specialties, Methodist earned the distinction of having the most specialties ranked in Texas for the fifth straight year.

Serving patients in Houston, and from around the world, Methodist is Leading Medicine.

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HOW IT’S DONE

OLMSTED, ILL.

Changing the Locks Though modern Americans mostly think of shipping in terms of Ice Road Truckers and FedEx freight terminals, billions of dollars in goods still travel by river every year. There’s just one problem: The infrastructure is nearly as old as the country itself. In fact, the Olmsted Locks and Dam, near the confluence of the Ohio, Mississippi, Tennessee and Cumberland rivers, still has its original wooden locks. A planned overhaul will update Olmsted, shaving five hours off a ship’s journey and reducing the price of goods that make the trip by up to $700 million. To pull it off, engineers will build parts of the dam on land, hoist them onto a barge with an enormous rectangular crane, float them out to the middle of the river and then sink them into position. As it turns out, that’s a li le harder than it sounds. BY JACQUELINE DETWILER

LIFT FRAME

BARGE

LLS

E DAM SH

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY US ARMY CORPS OF ENGINEERS

BARGE RIGHT IN: In an early phase of the project, 3,500-ton concrete shells are lifted on land by the Super Gantry crane (1) and loaded onto a barge, which floats on the river and has two sets of winches (2). The barge is then moved into position and the shells are lowered using a GPS system (3).

1 When making a lock or dam, engineers usually construct a temporary box around the area where they want to work, then pump the water out and build the dam on dry ground. This time, the US Army Corps of Engineers is using a new, more efficient method: assembling the dam on the riverbank and later sinking it. To lift the enormous dam pieces once they’re built, workers will use one of the biggest cranes on earth, the 5,304-ton capacity, rectangular Super Gantry (pictured).

ILLUSTRATION BY STEVE STANKIEWICZ

p035_HEM0911_HowItsDone.indd 35

2 According to project manager Larry Bibelhauser, the most complicated part of sinking the dam is the river itself. Once a piece is on the barge, rising water levels, changing speed and even wake from passing boats can knock it out of position before it can be lowered. To compensate, the captains carefully balance two sets of winches: Mooring winches anchor the barge to the riverbed, and snubbing winches (pictured) adjust the position of the dam in relation to the barge—just in case.

3 The dam shell has to be set perfectly on the river bottom—to within a single inch of the right spot on the blueprints. To pull this off in the shifting, muddy waters of the Ohio, engineers use specialized, hyperaccurate GPS to locate all four of the section’s corners underwater. Then technicians at the base spend eight hours maneuvering each corner into a bull’s eye on a computer system that functions much like a video game. Once the corners make it into the bull’s eyes, the piece is lowered.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • SEPTEMBER 2011

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03/08/2011 09:25

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culture

THE H GRIM GRIMACES (LES GRIMACES), FROM THE SERIES RECUEIL DE GRIMACES (COLLECTI TION ON OF OF GRIMAC GRIMACES MACES ES), )), BY LOUIS LOUIS LÉOP L O BOIL OLD BOILLY, LITHOGRAPHED BY DELPECH, 1823-28

A RTS M E D I A M A R K E T PL AC E

THE BIG TEN

MUSEUM

Insult Artists Typically, caricature is something done outside of New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art, by the wry street painters plying their trade for tourists. That changes this month, when the usually sober institution goes for acerbic laughs with “Infinite Jest: Caricature and Satire from Leonardo to Levine,” an exhibit featuring examples of the fine art of mockery dating all the way back to the 15th century. OPENS SEPTEMBER 13

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culture

|| The Big Ten

PRINT

TV

PILOT EPISODES PISODES Like Mad Men butt with key, more less whiskey, das of uniformss and a dash e, ABC’s new espionage, n Am takes series Pan ing the Jet place during e ’60s, when Age of the air travel became the pinnacle of luxury. The ows the flirtashow follows anglements and tions, entanglements us escapades of glamorous the pilotss and flight a endants of Pan Am airlines, g a rebellious including n, Maggie (Chrisbohemian, i), who bu ons up tina Ricci), ew career. for her new

In the mi mid-’80s, Roger Ebert critic Rog became a household name as cohost of pioneering the p weekly show, wee Siskel & Ebert Sisk The Movies. & Th Caustic and Caus always wearing alway a slightly-too-tight slightlyblazer, Ebert tweed bla his thumb wielded h with authority. auth Now, a er e surviving Ebert thyroid cancer, ca Life Itself, a releases L fascinating memoir fascinatin equal parts that’s equ remembrance and remembr critique.

MUSIC

CLASSIC(AL) ROCK Tori Amos makes her debut on the legendary classical label Deutsche Grammophon with Night of Hunters, a record that examines the hunter/hunted dichotomy present in everyone and derives its musical inspiration from classical pieces spanning four centuries.

4

SEPTEMBER 28

SEPTEMBER 13 SEPTEMBE

5

FILM FI

A WHOLE NEW BALLGAME

Moneyball is a (true) baseball story for our times: Mo Armed with wit computer-generated analyses, Oakland A’s general manager Billy Beane (Brad Pitt) challenges the system and puts together an above-average ball club with a below-average budget. Jonah Hill, Philip Seymour Hoffman and Robin Wright also star.

SEPTEMBER R 25

SEPTEMBER 23

PHOTOGRAPH BY TIM HURSLEY (KAUFFMAN CENTER), COURTESY OF FOX (TERRA NOVA)

Thumbs Up Thum

FILM

LOVE LOST Gus Van Sant, the filmmaker known equally for accessible crowd-pleasers like Good Will Hunting and difficult art films like Last Days, splits the difference with his latest, Restless. Annabel (Mia Wasikowska), a terminally ill teen, falls in love with Enoch (Henry Hopper, the son of the late Dennis Hopper), a morbid misanthrope. But the concept of doomed romance is handled beautifully by the director and his young stars, and the effect is that of an indie Harold and Maude: poignant, sad and ultimately life-affirming. SEPTEMBER 16

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SEPTEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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9 PRINT

Uninvited Guest

ARCHITECTURE

CENTER STAGE

7

MUSIC

BOY KING

Elvis Presley’s 1956 recordings (think “Heartbreak Hotel”) forever changed the trajectory of popular music. A hefty new box set, “Young Man with the Big Beat,” commemorates ’56 with five discs’ worth of original recordings, previously unreleased live performances, outtakes and rare interviews, along with an 80-page book featuring a meticulous hour-by-hour chronology of Elvis’ big year. SEPTEMBER 27

The dramatic and highly anticipated Moshe Safdie–designed Kauffman Center for the Performing Arts, which will serve as the new home of Kansas City’s ballet, symphony and lyric opera, opens this month. The $366 million, 285,000-square-foot facility includes two stand-alone halls in an overarching shell with a glass roof and glass walls anchored by high-tension steel cables reminiscent of a string instrument. Bravo!

OPENS SEPTEMBER 16

We’ve all been to dinner parties so dull that, were it not for decorum, a hard run for the door a er the soup course might have been warranted. In British novelist Ali Smith’s playful, satirical novel There but for the, a suburban dinner guest locks himself in a spare room upstairs and refuses to come out. Naturally, consternation ensues.

SEPTEMBER 13

WANT MORE? Download our iPad app.

10 LAND OF THE WHO? TV

The concept of Fox’s Terra Nova is standard sci-fi schlock—a dystopian future sends colonists back to prehistoric Earth for a second chance, only for them to find that the past is more dangerous than they had anticipated—but with Steven Spielberg executive-producing, the storytelling and production values might just make this the major-network answer to Battlestar Galactica. SEPTEMBER 26

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • SEPTEMBER 2011

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Yellowstone River, Montana

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27/07/2011 09:18

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Jenny Grossenbacher, Yellowstone River, MT

No.31983_Montana_Office_of_Tourism DPS.indd 3

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10/08/2011 09:02

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12/08/2011 19:36

the goods

Romancing the Stone Leave the dainty jewelry at home: Fall calls for big, regal rocks

BY JACQUELINE DETWILER 2

3

1

4

1 From afar, agate and precious stone pieces like Kimberly McDonald’s Jasper and Brown Diamond Pendant give off an earthy, Discovery Store vibe. Up close, it’s clear you could pawn one to buy a car. $36,000 / kimberlymcdonald.com 2 British jeweler Mawi’s new Panther line takes a step into the dark heart of the rainforest with gli ery-eyed jungle cats and voodoo priestess–inspired designs. $775 / mawi.co.uk 3 Bulgari’s Mediterranean Eden ring reimagines paradise as a green pool of peridot surrounded by an 18-karat-gold field do ed with diamonds. $25,900 / bulgari.com 4 A er years of remaining contentedly behind the scenes, former private label designer Carelle recently launched a consumer line. With a massive beacon like this rutilated quartz ring, it won’t be long before the masses find them. $2,610 / carelle.com

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • SEPTEMBER 2011

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03/08/2011 09:35

culture

|| The Goods 1

3

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Give ’Em the Bootie Great boots come in small packages 1 Named for the Sun King’s exceedingly ornate palace, Jason Wu’s Versailles bootie is studded with Swarovski crystal flowers and curlicues, and the heel is clad in rose gold.

Louis XIV would be proud. $2,150 / jasonwustudio.com

44

2 Women who have been waiting for footwear to go with the Fi h Element bandage-dress look: Rejoice! Alejandro Ingelmo ushers in the future with his Sydney Opera House– shaped Origami bootie. $1,770 / alejandroingelmo.com

3 Walking in Camilla Skovgaard’s platforms might take some ge ing used to, but once you’ve got it down, the double-kickstand effect should keep you standing comfortably all night. $870 / camillaskovgaard.com

4 Brian Atwood’s Cohen bootie evokes all the best memories of 1980s patent leather pumps—but with sky-high heels thin as wine-glass stems and diamond quilting, there’s a lot less of the earnestness. $981 / brianatwood.com

SEPTEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

p043-044_HEM0911_Goods.indd 44

10/08/2011 08:41

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03/08/2011 10:50

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03/08/2011 09:36

SEPTEMBER 2011

THE HEMI Q&A

Donna Karan A er redeďŹ ning fashion for women in the workplace in the 1980s and launching a global style empire, the tireless designer sets her sights on health, wellness and keeping cool in a chaotic world.

BY MIKE ALBO ILLUSTRATION BY JEFFREY DECOSTER

47

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03/08/2011 09:36

THE HEMI Q&A: Donna Karan

48

IT’S FRIDAY, and Donna Karan’s staff is trying to find a moment for me to talk to her. “She will be free in 10 minutes,” they say every 10 minutes for two hours. But then, the designer has always had a lot on her plate. Born Donna Faske in Queens, New York, to parents who worked in the fashion industry, she a ended Parsons School of Design and took a job early on as an associate designer for Anne Klein. Her rise was rapid. In 1974, at the age of 25, literally days after Klein’s death, Karan became the label’s head designer. She had also just given birth to her daughter.

In 1984, with her second husband, sculptor Stephan Weiss (her first was Mark Karan), she started her own line, Donna Karan, and sent out the groundbreaking “7 Easy Pieces” that made fashion history, offering women a way to dress as The Boss: in control, businesslike and feminine at the same time. The pair then launched the lifestyle clothing line DKNY in 1989, “the pizza to the collection’s caviar,” which was bought by LVMH in 2001 and has since branched out into furniture, candles and even phone apps.

These days Karan devotes much of her time to her Urban Zen Foundation, a humanitarian organization (complete with an earthy clothing line) that collaborates with medical professionals to incorporate alternative medicines into their care regimens. The foundation came about a er Karan lost Weiss to lung cancer in 2001. Seeing how aromatherapy and yoga helped him while he ba led the disease, she became focused on patient care, approaching it with the same intensity that marked her abrupt ascent at Anne Klein.

When Karan finally called, she apologized for all the rescheduling, but she sounded busy and had to make it quick. She wasn’t rude. More like: intense. Like a boss with a lot on her plate.

HEMISPHERES: Your father was a

tailor, your stepfather was in the apparel business, and your mother was a fitting model and saleswoman. It’s like you were totally immersed in your medium from the start. I guess you never thought you would do something else.

DONNA KARAN: No, no, no! I wanted to be a singer and a dancer. But I wasn’t good enough for that. Then when I was in high school I did my first fashion show.

HEMISPHERES: Oh my—a high

school fashion show? Tell me what it was like.

KARAN: It was probably the same clothes I do today. I made all of them myself. A halter top, palazzo pants and prints in African tribal pa erns.

HEMISPHERES: Was that when

you realized you had talent?

KARAN: Was it an ah-ha moment? No, it wasn’t. It was what I did. But I have had a lot of CONTINUED ON PAGE 126 »

FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: © ROSE HARTMAN/CORBIS; AMY SUSSMAN/GETTY IMAGES; RUVEN ANFANADOR

GRACE UNDER PRESSURE From left, Karan in her Manhattan store in 1994; with daughter Gabby and granddaughter Stefania in 2007; Karan in 2010

SEPTEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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03/08/2011 09:36

THE CENTER FOR REGENERATIVE MEDICINE

A NON-SURGICAL TECHNIQUE TO FIGHT AGAINST ARTHRITIS AND SPORTS INJURIES

Located at 1001 N.E. 125th Street, Miami, Florida, The Center For Regenerative Medicine includes a team of professionals that are dedicated to improve your quality of life, paving the way to enhance the science of non-surgical orthopedic medicine. World champions, sports legends, professional and amateur athletes, dancers, and people with just plain pain and arthritis go to The Center For Regenerative Medicine for non-surgical orthopedic care. Using the facility to improve their condition, thousands of successful cases have been treated over the past nine years.

HE049__13VY0.indd 1

The Knee Diaries: SJ is a 60-year-old male with bone on bone osteoarthritis of the left knee. An X-ray showed arthritis of the knee (X-ray on the left). Patient started receiving treatments at The Center For Regenerative Medicine. Today he is feeling better (X-ray on the right).

This is how it works: The physician introduces Cell Therapy into damaged, arthritic cells by means of a precise injection. This process is followed by infrared laser as well as several other modalities including Collateral Artery Flow Exercises (C.A.F.E.), in order to accelerate the process. Depending on tissue damage, severity of the condition and the size of the joint that needs to be injected, people usually need a series of 1 to 6 treatments to improve. There is usually no down time, and people can go back to their usual activities or work immediately. The treatments can help most musculoskeletal problems such as low back pain, neck pain, knee pain, shoulder pain, whiplash, sciatica, tendinitis, sprain, strains, torn ligaments and cartilage damage.

For more information please visit: www.arthritisusa.net or call (305) 866-8384 International: (305) 891-4686

12/08/2011 17:47

bright ideas

Taking Notes In just six years, The Echo Nest has indexed 30 million songs and a galaxy of articles, blog posts and sales figures. The end result will revolutionize the way we listen to music.

BY ALYSSA GIACOBBE

50

SEPTEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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AS PH.D. STUDENTS at MIT, Tristan Jehan and Brian Whitman were bi er rivals. Between them, they’d spent 15 years trying to teach computers to understand music the way people do, analyzing songs and artists based on qualities like voice, tonality, genre and cultural significance. The ideal program, according to Jehan, could tell you, for example, not just who Justin Bieber sounds like, but what he sounds like, in terms of qualities like tone and tempo.

Whitman thought it would be more important to look at the Bieb’s cultural impact at any given time, not through how he sounds but through what the music community is saying about him.

Eventually, the two realized that their goals were essentially the same and they joined forces. Six years later, their company has one clear, if lo y, purpose: to aggregate, index, interpret and share every last note—and every last word wri en about every last note—within the vast world of music. Building on technology Jehan and Whitman created at school, the company develops engines based on a number of variables: artists and songs, listeners’ habits, what people are blogging about, buying or sharing with their friends and so on. These engines power music recommendations and intelligent apps like Pocket Hipster, mainly, but they also provide valuable market information to record labels, subscription music services and radio stations—“collaborative filtering,” as the company likes to call it. “Music is this universal language, but there are literally millions of dialects around the world, and they’re changing every day,” says Jim Lucchese, a former Manha an music lawyer who was brought on as CEO in ILLUSTRATION BY ALEX NABAUM

03/08/2011 09:37

No.32330_Info_Office_Chengdu_Municipal 1pp.indd 1

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culture

|| Bright Ideas

2007. “It’s an enormous data problem to understand that activity.”

At The Echo Nest’s Somerville, Mass., offices, a couple dozen employees, most of them so ware engineers, man computers that acquire and synthesize data, monitor Echo Nest–powered servers and argue over what’s playing on the office sound system, which, in the span of an hour, includes Pink Floyd, Willie Nelson, Deadmau5 and some bootleg reggae. “On any given day it’s somewhere between democracy and anarchy,” says Lucchese, noting that these are people who take their music very seriously. At least 60 percent of the staff, including both founders and Lucchese himself, are in local bands.

Every day, The Echo Nest’s large-scale web crawlers retrieve and file more than 350 new song releases, countless record sales figures and tens of thousands of blog posts and tweets in real time. It’s an overwhelming amount of data. In six years, they have catalogued more than 30 million songs. In comparison, Pandora, which uses real musicians to log song titles and descriptions, has spent a decade indexing about 800,000.

If you’re wondering why this is the first you’re hearing of The Echo Nest, it’s because the company works largely behind the scenes, providing its database to a network of more than 7,000 independent developers. Access to the database is free for non-commercial use; if a developer later charges for his or her app, which most do, The Echo Nest earns a licensing cut that varies from client to client. (The company declined to release revenue figures.) The Echo Nest has powered more than 150 music applications; some of them, like BiPolar Radio, which uses key, rhythm and timbre to create mood-based playlists (workout

TONE-SETTERS The Echo Nest founders Brian Whitman and Tristan Jehan

playlist, dinner party playlist), are among the most successful of the genre. More interactive music apps have included gigZme, which scans your music library to recommend upcoming concerts near you. Clients range from major corporations with in-house development teams—like MTV, the BBC and Island Def Jam Records—to Dave McKinney, an Australian who created the Discovr music recommendation app, a bestseller in more than 40 countries.

“Before, you could create a MySpace page and be one of 5 million needles in a very big haystack,” says Lucchese. “But using our understanding of the entire music universe, it’s become much easier for newer bands to reach the people most into what they’re doing.” Because The Echo Nest digs up content from even the tiniest blog communities, its technology can, say, help pair Beatles fans with similar-sounding—if obscure—Brooklynbased singer-songwriters making music in their bedrooms. In addition to analytics, there are also predictive applications, like providing data that can help record labels figure out which blogs most influence sales, which editors might be

inclined to favor a particular artist, or how well a hip-hop upstart might sell in Cleveland before he’s even signed.

Of course, part of the thrill of music lies in the search and discovery, not to mention the bragging rights of being able to introduce your friends to the next Arcade Fire. Lucchese insists that Echo Nest technology won’t be robbing anyone of organic experiences like stumbling down 6th Street in Austin or discovering new music through your favorite underground blogger. Rather, the technology represents the perfect union of man and machine. “People are a critical part of what we do,” says Lucchese. “We’re just a window into the conversation. We’re giving you the ability to say, ‘I’m kind of done with Led Zeppelin. But I’d like to know what bands that sound like Led Zeppelin are going to play in Boston soon. And what people are saying about them, and who on Facebook might want to come with me to the show.’ To be able to answer those questions—that’s just awesome.”

Hemispheres contributor ALYSSA GIACOBBE is kind of done with Justin Bieber.

Island Def Jam The first direct partnership between a major label and the app-dev community, orchestrated by The Echo Nest, gives developers access to IDJ’s catalog at no initial cost, in exchange for a cut of future profits.

52

Rdio The Echo Nest’s partnership with the on-demand social music service has given music app developers access to Rdio’s 8 million–deep catalog of licensed songs, doing away with the ordeal of going directly to artists or labels.

Columbia’s LabROSA

The BBC Powered by Echo

A collaboration with Columbia University, with funding from the National Science Foundation, is the company’s way of giving back to researchers working in the field of music information retrieval.

Nest technology, the BBC’s Music Showcase curates and compiles music content from the BBC’s library, online conversations and blog posts, and helps tailor what users hear and see, all in a user-friendly web forum.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KRISSI CAMPBELL

NEST’S BIG THINGS The Echo Nest’s major partnerships further the field of music intelligence

SEPTEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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03/08/2011 09:37

Love is in the Air

Amber Kelleher-Andrews CEO

K ELLEHER I NTERNATIONAL Awarded “Top Matchmaker in the World 2010”

K I

Celebrating 25 Years www.Kelleher-International.com

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06/05/2011 15:57

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unitedvacations.com Â&#x201E; 1-888-854-3899 Â&#x201E; Contact your travel agent *Please allow 6-8 weeks after travel has been completed for miles to be posted to your Mileage Plus account. Miles accrued, awards issued, and bonus offers are subject to the rules of the United Mileage Plus program. United and its subsidiaries, affiliates, and agents are not responsible for any products and services of other participating companies and partners. The Mileage Plus program, including accruals, awards, and bonus miles offers, is subject to change without notice. Taxes and fees related to award travel are the responsibility of the passenger. United and Mileage Plus are registered service marks. For complete details about the Mileage Plus program, visit united. com. **Price guarantee requests must be submitted within 24 hours from when the booking was made. United Vacations packages that were booked outside of 24 hours are not eligible for price guarantee consideration. For complete terms and conditions about the Price Guarantee, visit unitedvacations.com or contact your travel agent. Š2011 MLT Inc. UV14137

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09/08/2011 09:15

tech

Hands Up Like to take your gaming on the road? The choices for portable play have never been this good. BY TOM SAMILJAN WAY BACK IN 1977, a handheld device about the size of a vintage calculator hit the market. Powered by a 9-volt ba ery and distinguished by tiny red lights blinking across a tiny plastic screen, Ma el Football was one of the first shots in the handheld gaming revolution. Today, the exponential growth of mobile phone games—by far the most popular downloads at both the Android and iPhone stores—has taken the genre well beyond the mainstream and deep into the pop psyche. Meanwhile, Nintendo is adding extra dimensions to its biggest flagship titles for the 3DS, the Japanese gaming company’s 3-D handheld, and Sony, in an effort to stay in the game, just released the PlayStation-certified Xperia Play, complete with a slide-out gamingcontrols tray. This winter, Sony will launch the successor to its PlayStation Portable, an HD, Wi-Fi-connected dynamo called the PSVita.

What all this adds up to is the biggest console ba le in gaming history, thanks to wireless interconnectivity and the scope of today’s handheld market. Here’s a—ahem—handy analysis of the gear coming out now. Game on.

1

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1

2

3

2

3

T-Mobile G2x with Google

Nintendo 3DS D

Sony PSVita

($249 with two-year contract, t-mobile.com)

($250, nintendo.com)

($249, us.playstation.com)

WHO IT’S FOR: Anti-Apple performance hounds TOP GAMES: Need for Speed SHIFT (preloaded), Minecraft, Cordy, Riptide GP PROS: The killer specs on this high-end Android smartphone are the dual-core Tegra 2 processor (smooth, detailed graphics), four-inch AMOLED screen (vibrant color), 4G network speeds (fast downloads) and HDMI line out for playing it all in high-res on your TV. CONS: Battery life won’t last through a whole day, especially if you’re doing any gaming.

WHO IT’S FOR: Kids, Mario fans TOP GAMES: Mario Kart, Paper Mario, Super Mario, Luigi’s Mansion (all available for the holidays), The Legend of Zelda: Ocarina of Time 3D (out now) PROS: Catalog, catalog, catalog: It’s the only place you’ll find the aforementioned Mario and Zelda titles, as well as Animal Crossing and Kid Icarus (both available for the holidays).

CONS: Is there really a demand for 3-D?

WHO IT’S FOR: Socially networked fraggers TOP GAMES: Uncharted: Golden Abyss, LittleBigPlanet PROS: High-res graphics; dual tactile analog stick controls; an innovative touch-sensitive back panel; and an accelerometer and camera that enable the device to be used as a motionsensitive, augmented reality controller.

CONS: It’s about as big as a waffle.

SEPTEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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BEST IN HEALTH

For Meredith, one practice proved worth traveling to …

Arizona Breast Cancer Specialists.

When Meredith’s biopsy confirmed breast cancer, the shock was indescribable. The visit to the cancer specialist was dream-like, but three of the doctor’s words stuck with her: “This is curable.”

Meredith led the charge against her cancer as she led her small successful advertising firm in Chicago: from head on.

Despite her research, she was told breast radiation therapy after chemotherapy would take over six weeks.

“I was looking at five months for surgery and chemotherapy, ready to do whatever was needed to be cured. But, I wasn’t satisfied with one option. My life was calling, asking when I’d be back!” said Meredith. Online, she found Arizona Breast Cancer Specialists in Scottsdale, Arizona.

Together, Drs. Robert Kuske and Coral Quiet, both nationally recognized Radiation Oncologists specializing in breast cancer, founded Arizona Breast Cancer Specialists in 2009.

“We have combined the finest physicians, state-of-theart technology, and the full range of radiation therapy treatment options for women with all types and stages of breast cancer,” explained Dr. Kuske. “Treating breast

cancer is all we do.”

Meredith traveled to Arizona Breast Cancer Specialists and was successfully treated with a one-week radiation therapy technique, invented by Dr. Kuske. Within 15 days after first exploring her options online, Meredith had completed radiation therapy, returned home and was back to work.

Arizona Breast Cancer Specialists, international experts and pioneers in the advancement of breast conservation therapy, is the first and only radiation oncology practice in the world exclusively devoted to women fighting breast cancer.

Reach us at 1.888.266.6341 or www.breastmd.com.

Arizona Breast Cancer Specialists Offices in Scottsdale, Phoenix and Gilbert, AZ

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FEATURES ILLUSTRATION BY OLIVER JEFFERS

»60 Art! Intrigue! Scandal! A behind-thescenes look at the monumentally star-crossed effort to rebuild Moscow’s beloved Bolshoi Theatre

BY RACHEL STURTZ PHOTOGRAPHS BY OLYA IVANOVA

»66 Taking in the rugged sights (and some of the season’s sharpest styles) in Montana’s Big Sky Country PHOTOGRAPHS BY JUCO

»78 Emotional heat, architectural lunacy, inspired cuisine and friendly locals make this hip capital of Catalonia incomparably appealing

BY CHRIS WRIGHT PHOTOGRAPHS BY FRANCISCO GUERRERO

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MOSCOW’S BOLSHOI THEATRE IS THE WORLD’S PREEMINENT STAGE FOR BALLET. IN 2005, ITS DOORS SHUT FOR A NEARLY $1 BILLION RENOVATION. NOW, AFTER SIX YEARS OF SCANDAL, CORRUPTION AND PALACE INTRIGUE, THE BOLSHOI IS BACK. BY RACHEL STURTZ

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GOLDEN TOUCH A technician installs wall lights in the big hall of the fabled Bolshoi Theatre

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LORDS OF THE DANCE Above, Mikhail Sidorov of Summa Capital and Bolshoi general director Anatoly Iksanov; opposite, putting the finishing touches on the boxes and the ceiling of the main hall of the Bolshoi Theatre

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This building, home to some of the world’s leading dancers, singers and directors, is the gem of all Russian performance spaces. It opened in Moscow in 1825 for the Bolshoi Ballet, a company founded in 1776 by Catherine the Great, and saw the premieres of Tchaikovsky’s Swan Lake and Rachmaninoff ’s opera Aleko. It’s home to the biggest opera in Russia and the largest ballet company in the world (its name in Russian means “big”). But when inspectors discovered cracks in the structure in 2005, the theater shut down. It was literally falling apart.

Originally set to reopen in 2008, the Bolshoi has undergone a renovation that was mired in scandal and embezzlement. The records of one firm working on the project, ZAO Kurortproekt, showed it was paid three times for the same work at a time when the Kremlin was trying to crack down on corruption. The cost ballooned to $800 million and the opening was delayed three years.

Now, if all goes according to plan, on October 28, 2011, the footlights at the Bolshoi will shine anew.

“Pray God doesn’t make you live in a time of change,” says Anatoly Iksanov, general director of the Bolshoi Theatre, a ribbon of cigare e smoke filtering through the bristles of his white mustache. Iksanov is in charge of two and a half orchestras, 220 dancers, 110 opera singers and thousands more stagehands, costume designers and conductors. Yet he still manages to sleep through the night. Which, he points out wearily, is the only time delegations of artists aren’t knocking down his door. “Artists must be given a lot of work,” he says, lowering his gaze. “When they’re busy on tour or creating new shows, they quit blaming managers and creating crazy scandals.”

PREVIOUS SPREAD: ITAR-TASS/ VLADIMIR ASTAPKOVICH

THE BOLSHOI THEATRE WAS BURNED IN 1853 AND BOMBED IN 1941. LENIN TRIED TO HAVE THE BUILDING, WITH ITS NEOCLASSICAL CORINTHIAN COLUMNS AND ARISTOCRATIC AIR, KNOCKED TO THE GROUND IN A GESTURE OF PROLETARIAN WRATH. AND A STREAM FLOWING UNDER THE BUILDING DID EVERYTHING IN ITS POWER TO WEAKEN THE STONE FOUNDATION. DESPITE THIS CEASELESS ASSAULT, THE BOLSHOI REMAINS STANDING.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY OLYA IVANOVA

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Indeed, scandals are frequent occurrences. Take one from last winter, when several dozen very racy pictures of Gennadi Yanin, the ballet’s manager, were emailed to hundreds of people and posted online in what some speculate was a smear campaign against a potential acting chief. And that’s in addition to the continuing public barbs and criticisms from disgruntled former and present dancers.

To all of this, Iksanov shrugs. The scandals, he says, are for public consumption and the journalists who love them. While he wants to protect the Bolshoi name, his concern isn’t the pe y back and forth of dancers. His charge is to promote the Bolshoi name from “one of the best” to “the best.” That means drawing new audiences to the old art. Last spring, the Bolshoi teamed up with Bel Air Media and Pathé to broadcast its ballets in movie theaters around the world—Europe, the U.S., Japan and Brazil—even screening ballets to gauge audience interest.

A test screening of the ballet Flames of Paris in Paris created

FOOT SOLDIERS Opposite, Anastasia “Nastia” Meskova in the new building of the Bolshoi, and, below, touching up her makeup backstage; above, from left, main gilder Vera Babich and members of her team

such a stir that by the time the Bolshoi booked the tour and the dancers arrived in the city, everyone knew about the show and almost the entire government came to the premiere.

Iksanov is also in Russian President Dmitry Medvedev’s Ministry of Culture, which is working to solve labor law issues that are stagnating the talent at the Bolshoi. The Bolshoi gives lifelong contracts to its members. “We’re not allowed to fire those who have not retired, and we can’t bring in someone new. It’s a big problem,” says Iksanov. “Without new artists, new blood, we can’t grow the way we need to.”

But Russians can be reluctant about change, even though (or perhaps because) they’ve had their fair share of it. In 2000, Iksanov was appointed to oversee the company’s transition from the damaged historical stage in the Bolshoi Theatre to the New Stage, a brand new, smaller house next door, during renovations. His challenge was to keep the company intact and make sure it continued performing. Bigger productions found a temporary performance spot at the Kremlin Palace, and others toured Europe and beyond. Iksanov had his work cut out for him—the smaller space wore down the performers, particularly because the job went three years over schedule. Artists are already a finicky bunch. But then so are conservationists.

Russians with a white-knuckle grip on tradition wanted the decaying theater untouched and le as a museum. Iksanov recognized the importance of retaining the interiors, but the stage and innerworkings needed an overhaul to support new technology and keep pace with the world’s most renowned institutions.

“The Bolshoi Theatre is a living, breathing organism,” says Iksanov, as he stands to leave and meet with the main conductor of the current opera, The Golden Cockerel, opening in two nights. “It needs to advance to survive.”

“I CAN TALK ABOUT this for hours,” says Mikhail Sidorov, spokesman for Summa Capital, the CONTINUED ON PAGE 128 » HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • SEPTEMBER 2011

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ON HER: Poncho and scarf by Paul & Joe; embroidered blouse by Nougat; jodhpurs and red boots by Tommy Hilfiger ON HIM: Cowboy hat by Bailey; denim shirt and suede jacket by Ryan Michael; silver bolo by Cathy Smith; handmade fringe blanket by Grete Underwood; brown belt by Maggie Half Dollar; jeans by Hugo Boss; boots by Ariat

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BIG SKY STYLE FROM MONTANA, THE LAND OF SILVER AND GOLD

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STYLING BY NINO BAUTI; FASHION ASSISTANT: NORMANDIE HOCHE; HAIR/MAKEUP BY JUANITA LYON REPRESENTED BY CELESTINE AGENCY; MAKEUP PRODUCTS

BY GIORGIO ARMANI; HAIR PRODUCTS BY BUMBLE & BUMBLE; SPECIAL THANKS TO THE MERCANTILE AT THE RANCH AT ROCK CREEK

I MANLEY, A TALL, white-haired rancher, IM lleads a visitor past a homestead cabin alongside meandering Oxbow Lake. Up ahead are the m rremnants of a handmade rail system leading iinto an abandoned silver mine. The mine has ttwo entrances. One has collapsed. A cougar has ttaken up in the other. “I’ve been coming to say hello to the cougar every time I get out here,” h Manley says, inspecting the cave.

M You’d expect Manley to be a grizzled Westerner more suited to horse-breaking than high e ssociety, but the reality is a li le more complex.

While he is indeed the proprietor of this place, the 6,600acre Ranch at Rock Creek, set outside of Billings, Mont., he’s also a hedge fund manager from Connecticut. “I’d wanted to own a ranch all my life,” Manley says. It took him 20 years to find the one he wanted, and another year to turn it into the luxury lodge and impeccable cowboy fantasia that it is today.

But then such is the draw of Big Sky Country. Bordered

by Yellowstone National Park to the south and Glacier National Park to the northwest, Montana has never been accorded the jet-set cachet of an Aspen or Jackson Hole

(nor, one suspects, would it want it). However, there is a gentle cultural shi afoot, with rustic-luxurious ranches like Manley’s becoming popular weekend destinations that combine high-end amenities with the breathtaking landscape that has long drawn hikers, skiers and trout fisherman here to the land of silver and gold.

It’s that same blend of ruggedness and effortless style that drew us here for Hemispheres’ fall fashion spread.

We spent three days at the working ranch soaking in the Montana air, tooling around on muddy roads with the ranch hands and shooting the latest Western-inflected styles from big and small designers alike, accompanied by the odd pair of gloves or chaps on loan from the resident cowboys.

At dusk one day, a er we had wrapped the shoot, Kerry, the ranch manager, brought us out into the field where the horses roam at night. He stepped out of the Jeep and whistled. The horses all perked up and wandered over to greet us, sniffing and gently brushing their heads against us like so many friendly dogs. It called to mind something Manley had said earlier, when he told us he hoped to retire here some day. “It’s like paradise on horseback,” he said. theranchatrockcreek.com

OPPOSITE: Hat by Harry Western Center; Cherokee-style jacket by Polo Ralph Lauren; white shirt by Tommy Hilfiger ABOVE: Hat by Tommy Hilfiger; bone necklace and resin bracelets by Pebble London; white shirt by Jil Sander; wool poncho by Replay; jodhpurs by Ralph Lauren HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • SEPTEMBER 2011

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LEFT, ON HER: Fishing jacket and cotton dress by Tommy Hilfiger; belt by Ralph Lauren; fringe bag by Radley; tights by Fogal ON HIM: Hat by Montana Mad Hatters; jacket by Tommy Hilfiger; top by Dior; trousers by Hugo Boss RIGHT: Cotton dress by Comptoir des Cotonniers; printed shawl and boots by Diane Von Furstenberg; leather belt by Ralph Lauren; necklaces by Pebble London

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ABOVE: Gray hat by Billings Montana; mohair cardigan by Paul & Joe; cotton shirt by DSquared; jeans by Ralph Lauren; furry boots by Hugo Boss Black OPPOSITE: Red blouse and boots by Diane Von Furstenberg; belt by Appaloosa; jeans by Acne; bracelet by Pebble London; half moon silver earrings by Maggie Moser

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM â&#x20AC;¢ SEPTEMBER 2011

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WANT MORE? Download our iPad app.

OPPOSITE: Cowboy hat by Harry Western Center; T-shirt by Nudie Jeans; elk horn buckle belt by Charlie Pattison; belt strap by Appaloosa; jeans by Polo Ralph Lauren; leather chaps and gloves borrowed from one of the cowboys (Tom) at The Ranch at Rock Creek ABOVE, ON HIM: Shirt by Rockmount; jeans with braces by Tommy Hilfiger; boots by Ariat ON HER: Dress by Replay; belt by Ralph Lauren; tights by Fogal; boots

by Justin BELOW: Blouse by Paul & Joe Sister; necklace by Pebble London; skirt by Kenzo; boots

by Diane Von Furstenberg

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ABOVE: Cowboy hat by Harry Western Center; T-shirt by Nudie Jeans; jacket and jeans by Polo Ralph Lauren; belt by Maggie Half Dollar; boots by Ariat OPPOSITE: Hat by Tommy Hilfiger; roll neck jumper by Donna Karan; wood necklace by Pebble London; waterfall cardigan and belt by Ralph Lauren; fringed suede skirt by Patricia W; tights by Fogal; boots by Jimmy Choo

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THREE PERFECT DAYS

BARCELONA The chic, meandering capital of proud Catalonia is best known for the hallucinatory architectural visions of Gaudí, but it’s the great food and amiability of the locals that make it one of Europe’s great cities

BY CHRIS WRIGHT • PHOTOGRAPHS BY FRANCISCO GUERRERO

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82 DAY ONE

Meeting Gaudí

85 DAY TWO

Behind the scenes at Camp Nou

85 DAY THREE

Feeding frenzy at La Boqueria

CATALAN COOL Opposite, Gaudí's La Pedrera; this page, grilled scallops at Arola in the Hotel Arts

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GO FISH This page, Frank Gehry's Fish sculpture; opposite, café life in El Born

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THREE PERFECT DAYS BARCELONA

BARCELONA IS NOT a place given to posturing. This former Roman outpost, now the capital of the northeastern Spanish province of Catalonia, isn’t as self-consciously pre y as Paris, as studiedly vibrant as London or as achingly stylish as Milan. It’s secure enough to refrain from draping banners from lampposts advertising its status as “Europe’s City of Culture.” Most important, its leaders seem to understand the principle of benign neglect. There’s li le in the way of the compulsive scrubbing and sandblasting you encounter in other historical cities. This has a couple of benefits. First, you see buildings rather than scaffolding. Second, many of these buildings look and feel like they’re supposed to: old.

The overwhelming sense is that this is a city comfortable in its own skin. Barcelonans are fiercely protective of their Catalan heritage, they simmer with emotional heat (fender benders can be theatrical affairs) and they are inordinately friendly. This is a town where you can walk into a shop, wildly mispronounce the name of the place you’re looking for and then wait while the shopkeeper consults Google Maps. This is good not only for your faith in human nature, but for your feet. A lot of what Barcelona has to offer is unheralded, even hidden, and this WANT MORE? allows for wonderful moments of discovery. Of course, it also means you’re going Download our iPad app. to need some help from the locals to find this stuff. Luckily, you’re in good hands.

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DAY ONE | By Barcelona standards, the interior of the exceptional Hotel Arts is fairly muted—there’s none of the over-the-top design so o en favored in this city. What this 44-story, oceanfront Ritz-Carlton does have is a view: a layer cake of sand, sea and sky on one side; the red-brown shambles of Barcelona on the other. You grab your camera and head out for a closer look, pausing only to contemplate the nearby Frank Gehry sculpture, a big, bronze-mesh fish tilting longingly toward the waters of the Mediterranean.

But you’re in Barcelona, and when it comes to architecture, the star of the show is Antoni Gaudí. His maniacal confections dot the city, and the most eye-popping of the lot is Casa Batlló, an apartment block he renovated in the early 1900s.

Batlló is located on the bustling Passeig de Gràcia, and there’s a crowd gathered, staring up at it. You join them, transfixed by the orgy of detail: sca ershot mosaics and wobbly window frames and skull-like balconies. Inside it’s even weirder, a swirl of blue-tiled passages and undulating antechambers that leave you feeling woozy.

Shake it off and head up about four blocks to Hotel Omm, where you’ve booked a lunch at Moo. The Michelin-starred restaurant’s chef, Felip Llufriu, specializes in nuevo twists on traditional Catalan fare, such as pigeon carpaccio served with ice cream and prawns with shaved pig tro ers (trust your waiter, the dishes taste much be er than they sound). Each of the six courses is paired with wine, and the presentation is so theatrical—poof! a cloud of smoke appears as the cover is li ed off the pigeon plate—that you have to resist the urge to applaud.

To er out of the restaurant and head back down Passeig de Gràcia for a dozen blocks or so, until you find the Gothic Quarter. Finding your way in is easy; finding your way out is another ma er. A knot of quirky cafés, oddball museums, medieval courtyards, Renaissance palaces and Roman ruins, the Gothic Quarter does not lend itself to a tight schedule. A foot-stomping Catalan folk trio, the musty shelves of a magic supply store, the Spanish Civil War–era bullet holes pocking Plaça Sant Felip Neri—all of these things demand your a ention. When you do emerge, a hundred doglegs later, you fight the urge to turn around and start again.

Dinner promises to be more orderly. You’ve opted for the Hotel Arts’ Arola, another Michelin-starred restaurant that

Avinguda del Paralelo

Mediterranean S ea

DAY ONE (1) Hotel Arts Marina 19-21; Tel: 93-221-1000 (2) Casa Batlló Pg de Gràcia 43; Tel: 93-216-0306 (3) Moo Rosselló 265; Tel: 93-445-4000 (4) Gothic Quarter Carrer del Bisbe and Carrer Llibreteria (5) Arola Marina 19-21; Tel: 93-221-1000 (6) Casino Barcelona Marina 19-21; Tel: 93-225-7878

toys with the Catalan tradition. Only here there’s a twist: a six-course “Gastro-Sostenible” menu that you cannot resist trying. The succulent Rubio Fish Roasted with Morels and Potatoes, and the Ecological Goats Cheese Cream both transcend the menu’s green premise.

Following a brief but emotionally fraught stint at the nearby Casino Barcelona, you return to your room and gaze for a while at the stubble of lights below, and then over at the oblivion of the sea. Oblivion sounds pre y good right now, so you head off to bed.

CHOOSE YOUR OWN ADVENTURE In a town full of tours, World RT, run by Robert Thai (left), offers something different: bespoke. Just tell him your tastes and how long you’ll be in town, and he’ll map out your trip. If you want, he will even come with you. So how good is he? Asked to devise a quirky and surprising 10-minute tour of the Gothic District, he doesn’t skip a beat. “Look,” he says, pointing to a small carved skull overhead. You look at it. “They say if you stare into its face, you’ll get one year of bad luck.” You thank him for that. Next it’s off to a dingy, nondescript courtyard. Here, standing alone in the half-light, is a cluster of Roman columns. It might just be the most beautiful sight in all of Barcelona. The last stop is a little stone turtle jutting from a wall. “Rub that,” Thai says, helpfully, “and you break the curse of the skull.”

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MOOR, PLEASE The Arco de Triunfo

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THREE PERFECT DAYS

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DAY TWO (1) Marmalade Riera Alta 4-6; Tel: 93-442-3966 (2) Arco de Triunfo Carrer de Roger de Flor and Avinguda de Vilanova (3) Basílica de la Sagrada Família Carrer de Mallorca 401; Tel: 93-208-0414 (4) Picasso Museum Carrer de Montcada 15-23; Tel: 93-256-3000 (5) 4 Gats Carrer de Montsió, 3 bis; Tel: 93-302-4140 (6) Camp Nou Carrer d'Arístides Maillol 12 (7) Barcelona Taste Gothic Quarter (8) Bel-Luna Rambla Catalunya 5; Tel: 93-302-2221 DAY TWO | You start the day at Marmalade, a loungey, low-lit nightspot in the artsy neighborhood of Raval whose Recovery Brunch has become an event in its own right. You have a Mexican omelet, with spicy chorizo sausage and crème fraîche, which makes you wonder how the people around you manage to stay so thin.

Burn off a few calories strolling between the extravagantly ornate lampposts of Passeig de Lluís Companys, at the end of which looms the Arco de Triunfo. If you want to get a sense of how neatly the Islamic and Christian traditions have dovetailed here, look at the angels and Moorish domes adorning this redbrick structure.

Interested in exploring another dovetail—the one between genius and lunacy—you head northwest on Passeig de Sant Joan and take Carrer de Mallorca to Gaudí’s most famous creation: the Basílica de la Sagrada Família. Gaudí started work on this skyline-hogging cathedral in 1883 and never lived to see its completion. It is, in fact, still being built today. Like Casa Batlló, Sagrada has a surreal, almost sinister feel about it. Saints GAUDÍ DISPLAY Clockwise from top left, balconies at Casa Batlló; Moo, at Hotel Omm; coffee break at 4 Gats; seating at Güell Park

Until recently, vermouth was something your yaya drank after church, a libation to be sipped while discussing the price of sardines. The drink, which is basically inferior wine that has been fortified and flavored to make it palatable, has never been thought of as fashionable.

Until now: Barcelona, it seems, is in the midst of a vermouth revival. Old, family-run bars like Cala del Vermut (shown) are seeing an influx of young people. And there are relatively new vermouth joints cropping up, such as Bar Calders, that are among the trendiest in town. During the so-called hora del vermut—the hour leading up to lunch— the terrace at Bar Calders is overflowing with enthusiasts, without a pair of false teeth in sight. and supplicants ooze from its reliefs, and clumps of ceramic fruit teeter on its peaks. Inside, the conventions of Gothic architecture have been tortured without mercy. As you leave, you sense that you will never see anything quite like it again.

A er an hour spent nose-to-canvas at the Picasso Museum, you wend your way through the Gothic Quarter to the 4 Gats bistro, where Picasso used to hang out a hundred years or so ago. The place, the manager tells you, has hardly had a lick of paint since, and you believe him—from the Art Nouveau stenciling to the bow-tied waiters, 4 Gats has a film-set precision to it. Opt for vichyssoise with shaved leeks, sausages with white beans and a strawberry mousse—delicioso.

From here, take the Metro to the city’s most fervently a ended place of worship: Camp Nou, home of Barca, the greatest soccer team in the world and a source of heaving pride for locals. On non–game days, they offer tours of the stadium, so you join a mass of scarf-draped devotees traipsing through the looming stands, the bristling trophy room and, oddly, the official team bathroom.

Dinner tonight hauls you once more into the Gothic Quarter, the venue for Barcelona Taste—a three-hour, four-eatery tour that is fun, informative and filling. Highlights include a local sheep cheese, a pungent blood pudding and a Basque tapas bar whose signature drink is red wine mixed irreligiously with Coke.

You end the night at Bel-Luna, a gloomy, tunnel-shaped jazz club. The pianist is old school, looking back over his shoulder while he jams. Your appreciation causes you to slop your cocktail a bit. Looking to remedy the problem, you call for another and se le in.

DAY THREE | The Mandarin Oriental, the second hotel of your stay, also opts for elegance over exuberance. The color scheme comprises several dozen shades of brown, and the hotel’s corridors are infused with a subtle floral aroma. A er breakfast at the on-site brasserie Blanc—crushed duck egg over roasted HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • SEPTEMBER 2011

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UNFINISHED, BUSINESS This page, Gaudí's incomplete masterwork, the Basílica de la Sagrada Família; opposite, the bustling Mercado de la Boqueria

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THREE PERFECT DAYS BARCELONA

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

THE INSIDE SCOOP FROM THOSE IN THE KNOW ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER JAMES FIELD

Diego Piero

Elena Vicente-Sevilla

Tomas Molina

ARTIST, DOLAR TATTOO

STUDENT

There’s a little park I like to go to in Ciutat Vella. People go there to sit on the grass and play music—I play guitar. It’s an artist’s park, a place for young people, people who live here.

I could walk there right now and find some friends.

What I enjoy most about Barcelona is the incredibly wellpreserved Modernist buildings. I love their stained glass windows, which are like kaleidoscopes. Sometimes I dream about Casa Batlló coming to life as a dragon.

CHIEF METEOROLOGIST, TELEVISIÓ DE CATALUNYA

People forget we have musicals here, like Broadway. My favorite place is Teatre Musical, which used to be a sports pavilion. It is huge, so it puts on big productions. The last one I saw was Mamma Mia! I liked it very much.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • SEPTEMBER 2011

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DAY THREE (1) Mandarin Oriental Passeig de Gràcia, 38-40; Tel: 93-151-8888 (2) Güell Park Carrer de Marianao at Carrer d’Olot (3) La Boqueria Rambla, 91; Tel: 93-318-2584 (4) Gràcia Carrer de les Tres Senyores (5) Palau de la Música Catalana Carrer de Sant Pere Més Alt; Tel: 902-442-882 (6) Betty Ford’s Carrer de Joaquín Costa, 56; Tel: 93-304-1368

88

potato, a side of chistorra sausage—you take to the Metro once more for the final Gaudí extravaganza of your stay: Güell Park, which manages to take the weirdness up another notch.

Güell isn’t so much a park as a mad fairy tale, a squiggle of pathways, grottos and toadstool-roofed pavilions, most of which is sheathed in riotous ceramic mosaics— heightening the sense that the place isn’t quite real. At the heart of it all is a large plaza packed with vendors, musicians and out-of-towners.

Güell sits atop a punishing hill—but the view of the city alone is worth the pain.

For lunch, head to La Rambla, the busy avenue that is home to La Boqueria, a produce market that makes the Rio Carnival look dull. As you enter, you dodge an onrushing pedestrian and run face-first into a bushel of peppers, nearly careen into a hanging ham and only narrowly avoid a nearby nuthill. Aromas hang in the air: a spicy, citrusy, cheesy funk, and above it all the insistent tang of fish.

For serious shopping, cut back to Passeig de Gràcia, which offers everything from Bulgari to Zara. Things get more interesting in Gràcia, the kind of district where you’ll find a funky gi shop abu ing a store that sells beans by the scoop. You pick up a novelty T-shirt, pass a few coins to a man playing “Strangers in the Night” on a trumpet, and head to the hotel to prepare yourself for a more formal musical performance.

Classical concerts aren’t the only reason to visit Palau de la Música Catalana. Its designer, Lluís Domènech i Montaner, subjected every square inch to some sort of flourish: heroic statuary, wreaths and roses, explosively pa erned stained glass.

Seated in the hall, violins washing over you, your eyes fli ing over the faces popping from the burnt-orange backdrop, you feel dreamy and pleasantly detached. And then you fall asleep.

Roused by the bravos, you head outside and catch a cab to the El Raval district for a late supper at Betty Ford’s, one of Barcelona’s ho est eateries and, you’ve been told, the repository of the best burgers in town. The Texas Burger is very good: thick and juicy, slopping with BBQ sauce. The lighting is low. The crowd is cha y. Yet your bed beckons.

Back at the hotel, you step out onto the balcony of your room and watch the street below. A few taxis glide by. Young couples walk arm in arm. One woman is saying something to her lover in Spanish, almost singing the words. She seems happy to be here—with this person, in this place.

CHRIS WRIGHT lives on Spain’s Costa Blanca. His friends are getting

tired of hearing how great Barcelona is.

SEPTEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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he business world is a fast-moving place, and itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s getting faster every day.

Between global economic shifts and rapid technological change, what weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve come to think of as work has changed inalterably over the last decade. To keep up, todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top professionals have to be smart, adaptive and eager to do whatever it takes to stay in front of all this change. And as theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll all tell you: if you want to get ahead and stay ahead, you have to keep learning long after you frame your bachelor degree.

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Executive Education HEMISPHERES PROMOTION

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SEPTEMBER 2011

Where Earning an Elite MBA and Conducting Business are a Perfect Team YOU ARE SUCCESSFUL, but you know you can do more. An MBA from a top school can provide you with the credentials and skills you need to take your career to the next level. You don’t want to give up your current career, so you need an elite MBA program that works around your demanding schedule.

Thanks to Indiana University’s Kelley Direct Programs, you can gain the skill set and credentials you need without the hassle of commuting to class, spending your weekends in a classroom or missing valuable time with family. Be er yet, you will learn from the same faculty that teaches in the Kelley School’s highly ranked full-time and part-time MBA programs. Perhaps that’s why graduates of the class of 2010 experienced an average salary increase of 27 percent compared to when they started the program.

For more information, sign up for one of our Virtual Open Houses at h p://kd.iu.edu.

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Your University Partner in Silicon Valley LOCATED IN the heart of Silicon Valley, Santa Clara University (SCU) has a long history of partnering with companies and universities to deliver programs on topics ranging from innovation and leadership, to applying modern business analytics and the use of social networking in management.

The Silicon Valley eco-system is a unique nexus of venture capital and technological CONTACT INFO: ingenuity. Our customized programs enable true access to this dynamic environment.

SCU boasts world-class facilities and a faculty that places the university among the topranked MBA programs in the United States. These resources and an extensive Silicon Executive Development Center Valley alumni network ensure that our custom programs will have the content and Santa Clara University impact that you need.

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Senior Strategic Leaders Learning Through Action THE LANCASTER MBA serves leaders who make a difference in the real world – a world typified by uncertainty, ambiguity and complexity. To increase performance in a dynamic world, we offer The Lancaster MBA in three programmes: The Full-time MBA, The Executive MBA, and The Global MBA. THE FULL-TIME MBA PROGRAMME suits leaders with proven potential to take on more strategic roles. Lancaster students come from 25 countries (up to 10% from the US) with an average age of 29 and 7 years experience. Through an intensive oneyear format, the Full-time MBA allows fast return to your career while enjoying the full benefit of a world-class MBA: Triple accredited, ranked among the best in the world, and fantastic value for money.

THE EXECUTIVE MBA AND GLOBAL MBA PROGRAMMES suit established leaders who seek to accelerate their career advancement: average age 36 with 15 years experience. These two-year part-time programmes follow a modular format (e.g.

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Whichever programme is right for you, The Lancaster MBA employs ‘learning through action’ to shape ‘senior strategic leaders.’

LEARNING THROUGH ACTION is the process. You engage real business issues throughout the MBA as each programme employs:

TOP RANKED The Lancaster Fulltime MBA is ranked Top 5 in the UK (Forbes 2011) Top 10 in the UK (Financial Times 2011) Top 50 in the world (Financial Times 2011) Top 100 in the world (Economist Intelligence Unit) TRIPLE ACCREDITED The Lancaster MBA is fully accredited by AACSB, EQUIS, and the Association of MBAs (AMBA).

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x Real organisation-based projects or assignments to apply learning, x Real engagement in reflective practice to challenge learning, and x Real interaction with senior strategic leaders to extend learning.

SENIOR STRATEGIC LEADERSHIP is the purpose. You gain the knowledge, skills, and character you need to accelerate your career as each programme emphasises: x Advanced knowledge in change, strategy, and leadership, x Supported opportunities to hone key leadership skills, and x Capacity building experiences that ensure Lancaster MBA graduates have the resourcefulness, resilience, and sense of purpose required of senior strategic leaders.

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LANCASTER UNIVERSITY MANAGEMENT SCHOOL (LUMS) enjoys new state-of-theart facilities and international accolades for excellence. This gives you confidence that your MBA is recognised for excellence worldwide. Excellence in our community reflects excellence across The Lancaster Suite of MBA Programmes. We invite you to learn more about The Lancaster MBA.

CONTACT INFO: The Lancaster MBA Lancaster University Management School Bailrigg, Lancaster, LA1 4YX, United Kingdom http://www.lums.lancs.ac.uk/mba/ mba@lancaster.ac.uk

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Executive Education HEMISPHERES PROMOTION

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A Global Approach to Regional Development in One of the Top 5 Business Schools in Latin America.

JOINING THE MOST prestigious educational institution of Argentina, IAE Business School has successfully obtained the three leading international accreditations for outstanding quality in Management Education –namely, Equis, AACSB and AMBA. IAE’s executive

training programs also top both domestic and international rankings published by The Financial Times, Business Week and Wall Street Journal, among other publications.

IAE’s vision to build a bridge linking Latin America and the globalized world reflects on its every activity. At IAE Business School, we work every day to Train Leaders for Society.

We are focusing on the future, on our continued growth to create new knowledge to drive positive changes in society and to enlighten generations to come.

The importance of knowledge for business competitiveness and, therefore, for economic growth is

equally undeniable. By providing new competitive advantages, knowledge supports wealth creation and economic development. Indeed, we are counting on our entire community to move forward in our growth project in order to further our efforts to support and drive the emergence of Latin America leaders who rely on integrity and education to rise above future challenges in a world of quick-paced changes.

CONTACT INFO: IAE Business School Buenos Aires, Argentina 54.2322.48.1000 english.iae.edu.ar

Where Strategy Meets Execution AT ARGOSY UNIVERSITY, we know that to become a leader in any industry, you have to make the right choices. To do that, you have to start in the right direction. Argosy University will help prepare you with the right strategy in order to execute your goal of becoming one of tomorrow’s leaders. Argosy University’s MBA is offered in a traditional campus se ing, online, or a blended approach to fit your busy schedule. Our Fast-Track program can help you get your MBA in as li le as one year. Just as we are dedicated to your education, United Airlines is dedicated to providing a level of service that makes them a leader in the airline industry. A positive flight experience requires a high level of commitment; Argosy University is commi ed to being a major hub for higher education.

With campuses conveniently located in places such as Chicago and Schaumburg, IL–a total of 19 locations in 13 states across the United States–Argosy University can make it convenient to put strategy into action today.

CONTACT INFO: Argosy University Visit argosy.edu for more information

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*See auprograms.info for program duration, tuition, fees, and other costs, median debt, federal salary data, alumni success, and other important info.

Not all programs available at all campus locations.

Financial aid is available to those who qualify.

12/08/2011 08:51

EXECUTIVE EDUCATION MARKETPLACE Smith College Executive Education

Leaders don’t always fit the mold.

Developing Global Women Leaders Smith College partners with Fortune 500 companies to unleash the potential of women leaders, offering a portfolio of programs for executives at all levels of the organization from emerging managers to the next CEOs. Learn more about how Smith’s unique approach to executive education can help your organization develop, advance and retain your top female talent.

Neither should your degree.

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Gain a 360° perspective of the world while you continue working in it.

For over 10 years, The Fletcher School’s Global Master of Arts Program (GMAP) has set the standard for international leadership in and out of the classroom. An intensive, one-year degree program, GMAP brings together 35 globally-minded working professionals through residency sessions and Internet-mediated learning to examine issues at the intersection of international affairs, business, diplomacy and geopolitics. Apply today.

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SEPTEMBER 16-30 Midnight in Paris [T]

SEPTEMBER 1-15 Kung Fu Panda 2 [T]

SEPTEMBER 1-15 The Middle The Big Bang Theory [T] Mythbusters

TELEVISION

FILM

SOUTHBOUND

LATIN AMERICA & CARIBBEAN

TELEVISION

SEPTEMBER 16-30 30 Rock [T] Better With You Hawaii Five-0 [T]

SEPTEMBER 16-30 The Simpsons [T] $#*! My Dad Says [T] Wild Caribbean

Both films available on flights between Denver/Chicago and Hawaii

FILM

SEPTEMBER 16-30 Midnight in Paris [T]

SEPTEMBER 16-30 Something Borrowed [T]

SEPTEMBER 16-30 Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides [T]

WESTBOUND

SEPTEMBER 16-30 The Big Bang Theory [T] The Defenders [T] The Middle

SEPTEMBER 16-30 Kung Fu Panda 2 [T] Both films available on flights between Denver/Chicago and Hawaii

SEPTEMBER 16-30 The Middle The Big Bang Theory [T] Mythbusters

NORTHBOUND FILM

TELEVISION

SEPTEMBER 1-15 Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides [T] SEPTEMBER 16-30 Something Borrowed [T]

SEPTEMBER 1-15 30 Rock [T] Psych Frasier SEPTEMBER 16-30 The Simpsons [T] Monk Two and a Half Men [T]

GET IN TOUCH What do you think of our programming?

We’re open to suggestions. Please send them to play@united.com or visit united.com/play.

p102-108_HEM0911_FilmTV.indd 102

04/08/2011 10:31

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • SEPTEMBER 2011

MOST FILMS HAVE BEEN EDITED FOR AIRLINE USE However, customer discretion is still advised. Content guidelines are provided as a courtesy to our customers in choosing whether to view a film.

PIRATES OF THE CARIBBEAN: ON STRANGER TIDES [T]

CUSTOMERS ARE WELCOME TO VIEW their own video entertainment aboard a United aircraft as long as they are able to show that the programming has an MPAA rating of “R” or less.

103

[V] Violence [S] Sexual Situations [T] Adult Themes

SOMETHING BORROWED [T] 2 hrs.

10 min.

1 hr.

52 min.

“A fun, welcome return to form for a series that proves there are still some exciting escapades of Jack Sparrow yet to be told.”—Gazette

“Although it deals with serious love vs. friendship issues, Kate Hudson’s performance is over-the-top funny.”—ReelViews

When Captain Jack Sparrow crosses paths with a woman from his past, he’s not sure if it’s love or if she’s a ruthless con artist who’s using him to find the fabled Fountain of Youth. She forces Jack aboard the Queen Anne’s Revenge, the ship of the formidable pirate Blackbeard, and he finds himself on an unexpected adventure.

FEATURING Johnny Depp, Penelope Cruz, Geoffrey Rush DIRECTED BY Rob Marshall

Rachel is a talented attorney at a top New York law firm, a generous and loyal friend and, unhappily, still single (as her engaged best friend Darcy is constantly reminding her). But after one drink too many at her 30th birthday party, Rachel unexpectedly ends up in bed with the guy she’s had a crush on since law school, who just happens to be Darcy’s fiancé.

FEATURING Kate Hudson, Ginnifer Goodwin, John Krasinski DIRECTED BY Luke Greenfield

KUNG FU PANDA 2 [T]

MIDNIGHT IN PARIS [T] 1 hr.

31 min.

1 hr.

40 min.

“The film’s visuals are thrilling, beguiling, vivid: the greens of a glade or a terraced hillside; the molten reds of Shen’s smelting works or yellow-orange arcs of fireworks.”—Denver Post

“There is breezy comedy to be made of a YouTube–age writer meeting the icons of a bygone era, but Allen goes deeper, expanding on his time-travel device to make unexpected and unexpectedly generous observations.”—Philadelphia Inquirer

Po is now living his dream as The Dragon Warrior, protecting the Valley of Peace alongside his friends and fellow kung fu masters. But Po’s awesome new life is threatened by the emergence of a formidable villain who plans to use a secret, unstoppable weapon to conquer China and destroy kung fu.

VOICES BY Jack Black, Angelina Jolie, Gary Oldman DIRECTED BY Jennifer Yuh

An American couple, engaged to be married, visits Paris with the bride-to-be’s parents. The man’s great love for the city leads him off alone, where he has experiences that change his life forever, and the couple is forced to confront the notion that a life different from their own would be better.

FEATURING Owen Wilson, Marion Cotillard, Rachel McAdams DIRECTED BY Woody Allen

p102-108_HEM0911_FilmTV.indd 103

04/08/2011 10:32

FILM & TELEVISION TELEVISION DESCRIPTIONS

THE VIEWS contained in the video content are not necessarily those of United.

HAWAII FIVE-0 [T]

30 ROCK [T]

THE BIG BANG THEORY [T]

The team, on the trail of bandits who are planning a robbery during the Honolulu triathlon, is forced to turn to Danno’s ex-wife for help.

A mix-up at Jack’s wedding leaves him actually married to Liz, and budget cuts at TGS force Jenna and Danny to share a dressing room.

Penny has a night of passion with Leonard, which Leonard misinterprets as something other than a mistake. Meanwhile, Wolowitz and Koothrappali search for Sheldon’s perfect match online.

MYTHBUSTERS

SUITS [T]

THE SIMPSONS [T]

Adam and Jamie investigate the best way to lose a tail. James Bond’s “Q” might have perfected spy car weaponry, but the concept is almost as old as the movies themselves, and the guys start off by testing three of the all-time classics: tacks, smoke and oil.

While running from a drug deal gone bad, Mike Ross, a brilliant college dropout, slips into a job interview with one of New York City’s best legal closers. Tired of cookie-cutter law school grads, the closer takes a gamble by hiring Mike on the spot.

Homer, Marge, Maggie, Lisa and Bart stage a parody of the Up Series of British documentaries. In this version, a filmmaker follows Homer and his friends from grade school into their 40s.

ELECTRONIC EQUIPMENT/PERSONAL DEVICES United Airlines strives to make its customer experience safe and comfortable and accordingly has issued the following in regard to the use of electronic equipment/personal devices onboard its aircraft.

However, the following is not a contract and does not create any legal rights or obligations. Certain electronic devices may not be used on our planes for safety reasons. Such devices may cause electromagnetic interference with cockpit navigation or communications systems during ground operations and while the aircraft is flying below 10,000 feet. However, when an aircraft is traveling above 10,000 feet (normally about 10 minutes after takeoff), passengers can use many of the devices listed. Hearing aids, heart pacemakers and watches are acceptable at all times.

These electronic devices can be used in the cabin, but may not be used during takeoff and landing: calculators; handheld computer games; shavers; portable CD and tape players; laptop computers/accessory printers/tape drives; portable VCRs/video players These electronic devices cannot be used on the airplane at any time: cellular phones (cellular phones may be used on the plane at the gate before the aircraft door is closed or at captain’s discretion when the plane is away from the gate and on the ground); televisions; AM/FM transmitters-receivers; remote-controlled toys In addition, United Airlines has an onboard photography and video policy. Customers who bring personal audio and video equipment onboard may only use these items with headsets. Noise-canceling headsets may be activated. The use of still and video cameras, film or digital, including any cellular or other devices that have this capability, is permitted only for recording of personal events. However, photography, audio or video recording of other customers without their express prior consent is strictly prohibited. Also, unauthorized photography, audio or video recording of airline personnel, aircraft equipment or procedures is always prohibited. Any voice, audio, video or other photography (motion or still), recording or transmission while on any United Airlines aircraft is strictly prohibited, except to the extent specifically permitted by United Airlines. UAL Corporation October 2009.

p102-108_HEM0911_FilmTV.indd 104

04/08/2011 10:32

© 2011 United Air Lines, Inc. All rights reserved.

The destination before your destination.

Buy a Red Carpet Club® one-time pass today.

9LSH_ VU `V\Y UL_[ [YPW HUK KPZJV]LY ^O` V\Y TVZ[ MYLX\LU[ [YH]LSLYZ JOVVZL 9LK *HYWL[ *S\I HUK 7YLZPKLU[Z *S\I SV\UNLZ HZ [OLPY [YH]LS VHZPZ ( VUL [PTL WHZZ SL[Z `V\ L_WLYPLUJL HSS [OL ILULÄ[Z <UP[LK 9LK *HYWL[ *S\I HUK *VU[PULU[HS 7YLZPKLU[Z *S\I SV\UNLZ OH]L [V VMMLY <U^PUK PU H JVTMVY[HISL ZL[[PUN LUQV` H KYPUR HUK H ZUHJR HUK [HRL HK]HU[HNL VM JVTWSPTLU[HY` >P -P ZLY]PJL PU HSS SVJH[PVUZ 7\YJOHZL [VKH` H[ HU` 9LK *HYWL[ *S\I VY H[ \UP[LK JVT [YH]LSVW[PVUZ

No.00000 The Destination Before Your Destination 1pp.indd 1

05/08/2011 09:57

FILM & TELEVISION B747 MAINSCREEN PROGRAMMING INTERNATIONAL LANGUAGE TRACKS (G) Synchronisierte Versionen finden Sie auf Kanal 2 und 3 (wenn verfügbar). (J) 日本語の吹き替えはチャンネル2番および３番でお 聴きいただけます。（一部英語音声のみとなります。） (C) 如果可用，在第2频道和第3频 道将提供语言录音 (K) 채널 2,3에서 더빙버전이 제공됩니다

FROM U.S.

Digital media loading occurs between the 25th of one month and the 5th of the following month. As a result, please understand if your flight features a different lineup before and after the start of each month.

(K) Korean (G) German (C) Chinese (J) Japanese

TO U.S.

Kung Fu Panda 2 [T] 1 hr. 31 min.

Midnight in Paris [T] 1 hr. 40 min.

TV 2 hrs.

Thor [T] 1 hr. 59 min.

TV 2 hrs.

Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides [T] 2 hrs. 10 min.

Something Borrowed [T] 1 hr. 52 min.

TV 2 hrs.

Water for Elephants [T] 2 hrs.

TV 2 hrs.

GERMANY

Kung Fu Panda 2 [T] (G) 1 hr. 31 min.

Midnight in Paris [T] (G) 1 hr. 40 min.

TV 2 hrs.

Thor [T] (G) 1 hr. 59 min.

Arthur [T] (G) 1 hr. 54 min.

TV 2 hrs.

Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides [T] (G) 2 hrs. 10 min.

Something Borrowed [T] (G) 1 hr. 52 min.

TV 2 hrs.

Water for Elephants [T] (G) 2 hrs.

Rio [T] (G) 1 hr. 39 min.

TV 2 hrs.

AUSTRALIA

Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides [T] 2 hrs. 10 min.

TV 2 hrs.

Something Borrowed [T] 1 hr. 52 min.

Water for Elephants [T] 2 hrs.

TV 2 hrs.

Rio [T] 1 hr. 39 min.

TV 2 hrs.

Kung Fu Panda 2 [T] 1 hr. 31 min.

Midnight in Paris [T] 1 hr. 40 min.

Thor [T] 1 hr. 59 min.

TV 2 hrs.

Arthur [T] 1 hr. 54 min.

TV 2 hrs.

Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides [T] (J,K) 2 hrs. 10 min.

Something Borrowed [T] (K) 1 hr. 52 min.

TV 2 hrs.

Water for Elephants [T] (J,K) 2 hrs.

TV* 2 hrs.

Rio [T] (J,K) 1 hr. 39 min.

TV 2 hrs.

Kung Fu Panda 2 [T] (J,K) 1 hr. 31 min.

Midnight in Paris [T] (J,K) 1 hr. 40 min.

TV 2 hrs.

Thor [T] (J,K) 1 hr. 59 min.

Arthur [T] (J,K) 1 hr. 54 min.

TV 2 hrs.

TV* 2 hrs.

Pirates of the Caribbean: On Stranger Tides [T] (C) 2 hrs. 10 min.

Something Borrowed [T] (C) 1 hr. 52 min.

TV 2 hrs.

Water for Elephants [T] (C) 2 hrs.

Rio [T] (C) 1 hr. 39 min.

TV 2 hrs.

Kung Fu Panda 2 [T] (C) 1 hr. 31 min.

Midnight in Paris [T] (C) 1 hr. 40 min.

TV 2 hrs.

Thor [T] (C) 1 hr. 59 min.

Arthur [T] (C) 1 hr. 54 min.

TV 2 hrs.

U.K.

JAPAN & SOUTH KOREA *Japan flights only

CHINA & HONG KONG

FROM JAPAN

THAILAND & TAIWAN *Thailand flights only

Win Win [T] (J, C) 1 hr. 46 min.

The Lincoln Lawyer* [T] (J, C) 1 hr. 59 min.

TV 2 hrs.

FROM HONG KONG

SINGAPORE VIETNAM

p102-108_HEM0911_FilmTV.indd 106

TO JAPAN

Jane Eyre [T] (J,C) 1 hr. 55 min.

HappyThankYouMorePlease* [T] (J, C) 1 hr. 38 min.

TV 2 hrs.

TO HONG KONG

Win Win [T] (C) 1 hr. 46 min.

TV 2 hrs.

Jane Eyre [T] (C) 1 hr. 55 min.

TV 2 hrs.

TV 2 hrs.

TV 2 hrs.

04/08/2011 10:32

television gold

63rd Primetime Emmy Awards

FOX, TM & © 2011 FOX and its related entities. All rights reserved.

SUN9/18

8/7C

Hosted by JANE LYNCH

®ATAS / N ATAS

emmys.com The official airline sponsor of the Academy of Television Arts & Sciences and proud carrier of the Emmy® Statuettes.

No.00000 Emmys 1pp.indd 1

05/08/2011 14:06

FILM & TELEVISION B747 MAINSCREEN PROGRAMMING [V] Violence [S] Sexual Situations [T] Adult Themes

WIN WIN [T]

1 hr.

46 min.

Disheartened attorney Mike Flaherty, who moonlights as a high school wrestling coach, stumbles across a star athlete through some questionable business dealings while trying to support his family.

FEATURING Paul Giamatti, Amy Ryan, Bobby Cannavale DIRECTED BY Thomas McCarthy

JANE EYRE [T]

1 hr.

55 min.

Based on Charlotte Brontë’s classic novel, this adaptation tells the story of an orphan who now works as a governess for the wealthy and moody landowner Mr. Rochester.

FEATURING Mia Wasikowska, Jamie Bell, Michael Fassbender, Holliday Grainger DIRECTED BY Cary Fukunaga

WATER FOR ELEPHANTS [T]

THOR [T] 2 hrs.

1 hr.

59 min.

It was the early part of the Great Depression, and for Jacob, now 90, the circus world was both his salvation and a living hell. It was there that he met Marlena, the beautiful equestrian star married to August, the charismatic but twisted animal trainer.

FEATURING Reese Witherspoon, Robert Pattinson, Christoph Waltz DIRECTED BY Francis Lawrence

A powerful but arrogant warrior is cast down to Earth and forced to live among humans as punishment.

Once here, he learns what it takes to be a true hero when the most dangerous villain of his world sends the darkest forces of Asgard to invade Earth.

FEATURING Chris Hemsworth, Natalie Portman, Anthony Hopkins DIRECTED BY Kenneth Branagh

ARTHUR [T]

RIO [T]

1 hr.

54 min.

Irresponsible charmer Arthur Bach has always relied on money and other people to get by. Now, he faces his biggest challenge—choosing between an arranged marriage that will ensure his lavish lifestyle or an uncertain future with the one thing money can’t buy.

FEATURING Russell Brand, Helen Mirren, Jennifer Garner DIRECTED BY Jason Winer

1 hr.

39 min.

Blu is a rare macaw who lives in small-town Minnesota and thinks he is the last of his kind. When Blu discovers there’s another—and that she’s a she—he leaves the comfort of his cage and heads to Rio. But it’s far from love at first sight between the domesticated Blu and the independent, high-flying Jewel.

VOICES BY Anne Hathaway, Jesse Eisenberg, Jamie Foxx DIRECTED BY Carlos Saldanha

YOUR COMPLETE GUIDE TO MOVIES, OVIES, TV SHOWS, M MUSIC US U SIC IC A AND ND N DP PREMIUM RE R EM MIIIUM UM U MS SEAT EA E AT C CO COMFORT OMF MFO T ABOARD UNITED MFOR SEPTEMBER S SEP TEMBER 2011

Owen Wilson and Rachel McAdams see two very different sides of the City of Light in Midnight in Paris

Play_0911_p01_Cover.indd 1

IF YOUR AIRCRAFT IS EQUIPPED with in-seat video, refer to the separate Play guide located in your seat pocket.

02/08/2011 09:15

p102-108_HEM0911_FilmTV.indd 108

04/08/2011 10:34

1 in 6 Americans struggles with hunger.

HUNGER IS CLOSER THAN YOU THINK. SO IS THE SOLUTION. September is Hunger Action Month, when Feeding America and our nationwide network of more than 200 member food banks ask you to play a role in ending domestic hunger.

You can help by donating United Mileage Plus miles at united.com/feedingamerica. Visit hungeractionmonth.org to learn more ways to help.

Š Feeding America. All rights reserved.

No.00000 Feeding America 1pp.indd 1

05/08/2011 09:50

AUDIO PROGRAMMING

What Zune music lovers listen to most.

Great vocals, catchy hooks and a backbeat.

The ’60s through ‘80s, songs you grew up on.

Lady Antebellum

The Grammy winning trio is back with a new album Own The Night on September 13th. Listen to “Just A Kiss” on the Top Zune Songs channel.

Hits of the ‘70s and ‘80s, from edgy to arty.

The Nashville sound, ballads to barn-burners.

Great performances of timeless concert music.

Fun, friendly pop and favorite soundtracks.

Alternative takes on what’s cool and creative.

Energetic and melodic sounds of global joy.

Unwind with softer sounds of the best pop.

Music for inspiration and contemplation.

Top artists and DJs, amazing new tracks.

Relaxing and atmospheric instrumental sounds.

Chart toppers from the 80’s, 90’s and today.

From Central and South America, éxitos en español

TV and movie music, classic and new.

Favorite comics on what’s so funny.

Colorful, indigenous roots resounding.

Pure legends and fresh new artists.

Rock and Roll hits from the 50’s and 60’s.

Sublime tunes colored by pop, funk and rock.

p110-111_HEM0911_ZUNE.indd 2

Lenny Kravitz

The multi-platinum rocker is back with his new album Black And White America. Listen to “Come On Get It” on the Indie/Modern Rock channel.

03/08/2011 16:00

Zune and United bring you a sample of the music available to Zune users—on their PC, Xbox 360, Windows Phone 7 and Zune media players. Learn more about Zune music and video entertainment at www.zune.net/united.

on

Find your aircraft model on the grid below to find the Zune channel that’s right for you.

CHANNEL

777 (2-CABIN)

SELECT A320

A319 & A320

747

757 & 767 (2-CABIN)

1 movie (english)

movie (english)

movie (english)

movie (english)

movie (english)

2 top songs in zune

top songs in zune

top songs in zune

movie (dubbed)

top songs in zune

3 contemporary pop

contemporary pop

contemporary pop

movie (dubbed)

contemporary pop

4 classical

country

classical

classical

classical

5 new wave

new wave

new wave

new wave

new wave

6 country

classical

unavailable

country

country

7 classic rock

classic rock

unavailable

classic rock

classic rock

8 kids

rock & roll

unavailable

contemporary pop

kids

9 from the flight deck

from the flight deck

from the flight deck

from the flight deck or r&b/soul

from the flight deck or r&b/soul

10 rock & roll

movie (dubbed)

movie (dubbed)

top songs in zune

movie (dubbed)

11 indie/modern rock

kids

kids

kids

12 easy listening

pop

r&b/soul

ambient

13 r&b/soul

r&b/soul

country

easy listening

14 electronic/dance

electronic/dance

classic rock

world

15 ambient

indie/modern rock

indie/modern rock

16 smooth jazz 17 soundtracks 18 comedy 19 pop

flight deck Listen for your flight number to hear live communication between the flight deck and FAA air traffic control. This feature, unique to United, may not be available on all flights, including oceanic crossings with limited audio communication. Available at your captain’s discretion.

zune pass

Like what you hear? Get all the music offered here today plus unlimited access to millions of other songs with a Zune® Pass music subscription.* Visit zune.net/zunepass to try it free for 14 days. *Zune Pass is a monthly music subscription, available in the United States, UK, France, Italy and Spain.

Available content may vary over time.

p110-111_HEM0911_ZUNE.indd 3

03/08/2011 16:00

your entertain nment. everywhere.

Now it’s easy to enjoy your music, movies and TV shows while you’re out and about. If music discovery is your thing, you won’t have to worry about memory or space because your Zune Pass music subscription will let you stream unlimited tunes right to your Windows Phone. Or you can easily load all your favorite media onto your mobile phone through the Zune Software to enjoy your favorite music, movies, shows, podcasts, or even photos, games and apps. Together with Zune, your Windows Phone lets you take it all with you. *Zune Pass is a monthly music subscription service. Some Marketplace content may not be available via Zune Pass and may vary over time. Streaming feature on Windows Phone requires wireless network access; carrier fees may apply.

No.00000 ZUNE advert UA version 1pp.indd 1

07/06/2011 13:52

No.00000 Star Alliance 1pp.indd 1

05/08/2011 09:55

light meets might.

Available at samsonite.com, Macy’s, macys.com, Bon-Ton, Carson Pirie Scott, Belk, Boscov’s, Bed Bath & Beyond, The Luggage Outlet, Luggage & More, Mori Luggage & Gifts, Premier Travelware, Argentina International, Luggage Gallery, Travel Plus, Altman Luggage, The Luggage Source, and other fine department stores and luggage specialists.

No.31407_Samsonite 1pp.indd 1

29/07/2011 09:05

8:00 pm 9:00 pm 10:00 pm

7:00 pm

1:00 am

12:00 SUN.

2:00 am

3:00 am

5:00 am

6:00 am

7:00 am

8:00 am

9:00 am

11:00 am

10:00 am

ARCTIC OCEAN

Route lines do not reflect actual flight path

United/United Express/ Continental/Continental Express/ Continental Connection Route

Lulea Reykjavik

ICELAND

NORWAY

UNITED KINGDOM

CANADA

Khabarovsk Seattle

U.S.A.

Sapporo

Shenyang

JAPAN

N. KOREA

Beijing

Pyongyang

Dalian

Tianjin

CHICAGO (O’HARE)

Niigata

Sendai

SAN FRANCISCO

Komatsu Seoul S. KOREA TOKYO Qingdao Pusan Fukuoka Osaka Nagoya Nanjing Cheju Okayama Hefei Nagasaki Shanghai Hiroshima Chengdu Wuhan Kumamoto Kochi Oita 6:00 Ningbo Kagoshima Hangzhou Chongqing Matsuyama Changsha Wenzhou Miyazaki Guiyang Fuzhou Guangzhou Okinawa BHUTAN Taipei Kunming Xiamen Guilin BANGLADESH Nanning Macau Shenzhen Ishigaki Hanoi BURMA Hong Kong TAIWAN Chiang Rai LAOS Haikou Chiang Mai Vientiane 9:00 pm THAILAND Yangon South China Khon Kaen Sea Saipan Luzon Island Bangkok Manila Zhengzhou

CAMBODIA VIETNAM Phnom Penh

Krabi Phuket Hat Yai Penang

PHILIPPINES

GUAM

MARSHALL ISLANDS Kwajalein

Yap Pohnpei

Kota Kinabalu

MALAYSIA

Chuuk (Truk)

Palau

Bandar Seri Begawan

Kuala Lumpur

Majuro

N

D

O

N

VENEZUELA

Medellin

Bucaramanga

S

I

Dakar Banjul

GUINEA BISSAU

SENEGAL

GAMBIA

Bissau GUINEA

Conakry Freetown

SIERRA LEONE

Monrovia LIBERIA

ATLANTIC OCEAN Manaus

Kuwait

Fortaleza

NIGER

BENIN TOGO

BRAZIL

ERITREA

CHAD

1:00 pm BURKINA Ouagadougou FASO

Khartoum

CAMEROON CENTRAL AFRICAN REPUBLIC Douala

EQUATORIAL GUINEA

Sao Tome SAO TOME & PRINCIPE

Coral Sea

Apia

Lima

Pago Pago

WESTERN SAMOA

Port Vila

FIJI

Cairns

FRENCH POLYNESIA

Nadi

RWANDA

Noumea

NEW CALEDONIA

Norfolk Island

Gold Coast

9:30 pm

to San Francisco

1:00

Brisbane

Hermosillo

Adelaide

Sydney

Guaymas

Tasman Sea

Melbourne

Nelson

NEW ZEALAND Queenstown

Route lines reflect flights operated by United Airlines, Continental Airlines, Inc. and/or their regional partners. For accurate flight schedules, please see www.united.com or www.continental.com. © 2011 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

p115-120_HEM0911_Routemap.indd 2

8:00 pm

9:00 pm

11:00 pm

TANZANIA

Belo Horizonte

PARAGUAY

to to New York New York (La Guardia) (Newark)

Windhoek

Gaborone

Iguassu Falls

ARGENTINA

Saltillo

Mahé

Porto Alegre

Santiago

Nassau Tampico Aguascalientes

Havana

Santiago Samana Santo Domingo Aguadilla San Juan St. Thomas

Christchurch

COLOMBIA

1:00 am

2:00 am

3:00 am

4:00 am

5:00 am

Montevideo Buenos Aires

VENEZUELA

6:00 am

7:00 am

8:00 am

9:00 am

INDIAN OCEAN

SEYCHELLES

Dar Es Salaam

4:00 pm

6:00 pm

5:00 pm

NORWAY

Bergen

Oslo SWEDEN

FINLAND

Helsinki

Stockholm

Manzini SCOTLAND

ESTONIA

Stavanger

MOZAMBIQUE

MADAGASCAR Aberdeen

Maputo

Aalborg DENMARK

Aarhus Billund Esbjerg

LATVIA

Riga

Copenhagen Palanga LITHUANIA Malmo Newcastle Bloemfontein RUSSIA Vilnius Gdansk Kaliningrad Groningen Maseru Bremen Hamburg Leeds POLAND SOUTH AFRICA BELARUS LESOTHO East London Dublin WALES Manchester Berlin ENGLAND NETH. Hannover Cape Town Shannon Birmingham Amsterdam Warsaw Port Muenster Elizabeth Cork GERMANY Leipzig BELGIUM London Dresden Bristol London Brussels Prague (Gatwick) Katowice Cologne UKRAINE Frankfurt CZECH Luxembourg Nuremberg REPUBLIC SLOVAKIA Stuttgart Munich Paris Salzburg Basel Linz Vienna Budapest FRANCE AUSTRIA Friedrichshafen Klagenfurt Cluj-Napoca SWITZ. Ljubljana Lyon Verona Venice Zagreb Bucharest TriesteBOS. ROMANIA Turin Milan Bologna HERZ. Belgrade Genoa Florence Toulouse SERBIA Sarajevo La Coruna BULGARIA Marseille Nice Pisa Ancona KOS. Bilbao Sofia Skopje Istanbul Rome ALBANIA MAC. SPAIN Porto Naples ITALY Thessaloniki Madrid PORTUGAL Valencia Alexandroupolis Palma GREECE Ibiza La Romana Palermo Alicante Lisbon Mediterranean Sea Izmir Sevilla Mikonos Granada Faro Rhodes MALTA Luga Heraklion

URUGUAY

Monterrey

Coimbatore

MALDIVES

MALAWI

Glasgow

Johannesburg

Curitiba Florianopolis

Bermuda

Kozhikode Cochin Trivandrum

SRI LANKA

Atlantic Lilongwe Harare Ocean

BOTSWANA

Bangalore Chennai (Madras)

COMOROS

ZIMBABWE

NAMIBIA Rio de Janeiro

Mangalore

3:00 pm

ZAMBIA Lusaka

Providenciales Queretaro Cozumel Puerto Mexico City Plata Veracruz Ciudad del Grand Cayman Puerto Vallarta St. Maarten Carmen Manzanillo Montego Puebla Port-auBelize Bay Guadalajara Antigua Kingston Prince Punta Cana St. Kitts Roatan Oaxaca Pointe a Pitre Morelia Toluca Huatulco Martinique San Pedro Sula St. Lucia Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo Tegucigalpa Villahermosa San Andres Barbados Aruba Island Bonaire Acapulco Grenada Guatemala City NIC. Tobago San Salvador COSTA Caracas Port-of-Spain Managua RICA Panama City PACIFIC OCEAN Liberia PANAMA

Dunedin

12:00 MIDNIGHT

ANGOLA

Cordoba

Los Cabos

Palmerstown North Wellington Blenheim

World time zones shown in Standard Time.

10:00 pm

to New York (Newark)

to Washington (Dulles)

Chihuahua

Durango MEXICO

Rotorua Napier-Hastings

to Cleveland

HOUSTON (INTERCONTINENTAL)

Torreon

Auckland Hamilton

to Denver

to Los Angeles

Perth

7:00 pm

Campo Grande

Nuku’ Alofa

AUSTRALIA

6:00 pm

CHILE

Rarotonga

Goa

Arabian Sea

BURUNDI

2:00 pm

10:00 am

Brasilia Goiania

Santa Cruz

Papeete

Niue

BOLIVIA

YEMEN

Nairobi

Bujumbura

Agartala

4:00 pm

KENYA

Kinshasa

Kolkata

Pune

Colombo

Kigali

Recife

Salvador Cuzco

Mumbai

BANG.

Dhaka

SOMALIA

UGANDA

Libreville GABON CONGO

BHUTAN

ETHIOPIA

Juba

DEM. REP. CONGO

Yaounde

Luanda

Darwin

OMAN

Addis Ababa

Lubumbashi

INDIAN OCEAN

Islamabad Jammu Peshawar 4:30 Lahore Amritsar Guwahati Chandigarh Kathmandu 5:00 Delhi NEPAL

NIGERIA

Accra Lome Abidjan Malabo

Denpasar Bali

AFGHAN.

DJIBOUTI

Abuja Cotonou Port Harcourt GHANA Lagos

TAJIKISTAN

QATAR

Sanaa

Asmara

SUDAN

Kano

3:30

KYRGYZSTAN

Dushanbe

Jaipur Lucknow Dubai Karachi Indore 5:30 Patna Abu Dhabi U. A. E. INDIA Muscat Ahmedabad Raipur Nagpur

Bahrain Riyadh Doha

SAUDI ARABIA

MALI

5:00 Tashkent

PAKISTAN

Dammam

Luxor

EGYPT

Pointe Noire

PERU

Amman

Alma-Ata Bishkek

UZBEKISTAN

Baku

IRAN

JORDAN

2:00 pm

LIBYA

Sal CAPE VERDE ISLANDS

FRENCH GUIANA

Guayaquil

GEORGIATbilisi

Jeddah

ECUADOR

PAPUA NEW GUINEA

Jakarta

ALGERIA

MAURITANIA

Quito

PACIFIC OCEAN

A

C

Krasnodar

Benghazi Alexandria ISRAEL

WESTERN SAHARA

SURINAME GUYANA

Cali

6:00 pm KAZAKHSTAN

Donetzk

TURKEY

Izmir

Cairo

Tenerife Las Palmas

4:00

Istanbul

GREECE

CANARY ISLANDS

COLOMBIA

E

Oran

Ekaterinburg

Batumi ARMENIA Ankara AZER. TURKMENISTAN Yerevan Antalya Athens Ashgabat Larnaca Erbil Tunis Malta Ercan Rhodes SYRIA CYPRUS Mashad Beirut Tehran IRAQ TUNISIA Mediterranean Sea LEBANON Damascus Baghdad Tripoli Tel Aviv

Funchal

Bermuda

Saltillo Monterrey Torreon Nassau Santo Domingo Durango MEXICO Tampico Los Cabos Aguadilla Aguascalientes Providenciales San Juan Queretaro Cozumel Puerto Mexico City St. Thomas Plata Veracruz Ciudad del Grand Cayman Puerto Vallarta St. Maarten Manzanillo Carmen Puebla Montego Port-auBelize Guadalajara Antigua Bay Ponce Prince Punta Oaxaca Tuxtla Roatan Cana Morelia Toluca Huatulco Gutiérrez San Pedro Sula Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo Tegucigalpa Villahermosa Aruba Bonaire Acapulco Guatemala City NIC. Panama Port-of-Spain San Salvador COSTACity Caracas Managua RICA Maracaibo Valencia PANAMA Liberia Cartagena

Singapore

Nador

Moscow

Black Sea

Skopje Tirana

ALB.

MOROCCO

HOUSTON (INTERCONTINENTAL)

Kosrae

BRUNEI I

12:00

Chihuahua

Honolulu

Rome

Algiers

Casablanca

Orange County

Cebu

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)

WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES)

DENVER

HER. SERB. Sofia KOS. MONT.

5:00 pm

4:00

Manchester

Madrid

Lisbon

Horta

LOS ANGELES

International Date Line

5:30

Edinburgh

Barcelona

PORTUGAL

NEW YORK (NEWARK)

RUSSIA

St. Petersburg

Tallinn

Stockholm

SPAIN

New York (La Guardia)

CLEVELAND

FINLAND Helsinki

n Sea pia as

Changchun

Oulu

2:00 pm

Riga LAT. Copenhagen LITH. Malmo Vilnius Belfast Hamburg Gdansk Minsk Dublin Amsterdam BELARUS Berlin Shannon GERMANY Warsaw Brussels POLAND Birmingham Kiev London Krakow Frankfurt Stuttgart UKRAINE Kosice Munich Paris MOLDOVA Chisinau AUSTRIA SWITZ. ROMANIA FRANCE Odessa Geneva Milan Belgrade Bucharest BOS.-

Harbin

8:00 pm

Turku

Oslo

Hudson Bay

2:00

0

Umea Trondheim Ostersund Kristiansund Vaasa Molde SWEDEN

Anchorage

9:30

Ulaanbataar

Alta

GREENLAND ALASKA (U.S.)

Glasgow

MONGOLIA

3:00 pm

2:00 pm

ARCTIC OCEAN

8:00 pm

Baotou

1:00 pm

Tromso

United/Continental Seasonal Service United/Continental Future Service CITY United/Continental Hub (Red All Caps) Cities served Cities served by select airline partners Time zone boundary

INTERNATIONAL CITIES

CHINA

12:00 pm

4:00 am

MIDNIGHT

ROUTE MAPS

RUSSIA

12:00 MON.

11:00 pm

10:00 am

11:00 am

12:00 NOON

1:00 pm

Edinburgh

SWAZILAND NORTHERN IRELAND UNITED Belfast DurbanKINGDOM IRELAND

0911

04/08/2011 10:35

Yellowknife

Cullaton Lake Ennadai Lake Prince Rupert

ROUTE MAPS

Smithers Terrace

Sand Spit

Fort St. John

Route lines do not reflect actual flight path Fort McMurray

United/United Express/ Continental/Continental Express/ Continental Connection Route

Prince George Grande Prairie

C A N A DA

to Anchorage

Pacific Time Zone B R I T I S H 4:00

COLUMBIA

Mountain Time Zone 5:00

Kamloops

Vancouver

Nanaimo

Victoria

Central Time Zone 6:00

Calgary

Goose Bay

Newfoundland Time Zone 8:30

Wabush

MANITOBA

Gander

Deer Lake NEWFOUNDLAND & LABRADOR

S A S K AT C H E WA N

Saskatoon Castlegar Cranbrook Lethbridge Medicine Hat Spokane Kalispell

Seattle

WA S H I N G T O N

Pasco

North Bend

Redmond OREGON

Medford

Eureka

I DA H O

Bozeman

Boise

Redding

Minot MINNE SOTA

Timmins Rouyn-Noranda

Wausau Minneapolis Eau Claire Green Bay

Saint John

Halifax

SCOTIA Bangor Bar Harbor

Ottawa V T. Plattsburgh N.H. Burlington Kingston

Traverse City

Portland

N E W YO R K

Manchester Toronto Syracuse Albany Midland/ Boston Rochester Saginaw Sarnia Ithaca Muskegon Grand Buffalo/ Hartford/M A S S . Hyannis Sacramento Reno/Tahoe Rock Springs Milwaukee Rapids Flint Niagara Falls Binghamton SpringfieldR.I. I OWA Nantucket C.T. Providence Newburgh London JamestownElmira Scottsbluff Oakland Lansing SAN FRANCISCO Madison Salt Lake City Wilkes Barre/ Alliance New Haven Modesto White Detroit Windsor Laramie South Erie Bradford Scranton San Jose Long Island/Islip Vernal Hayden/ Plains NEBRASKA Cedar Mammoth Lakes Cheyenne Bend/Elkhart/ CLEVELAND New York (La Guardia) FranklinClearfieldWilliamsport Rapids/ Mishawaka Omaha Steamboat Fresno N.J. North Platte U TA H (J.F. Kennedy) Des PA Iowa City State Akron/Canton COLORADO Monterey Allentown NEW YORK (NEWARK) Grand Springs Moines Dubois College Visalia OHIO Peoria Junction Vail/Eagle DENVER Ft. Kearney Pittsburgh CA L I F O R N I A Moline Harrisburg Philadelphia Lincoln Moab Wayne Columbus Johnstown Aspen McCook Baltimore Altoona ILLINOIS Inyokern I N D I A NA Morgantown Colorado Springs St. George MARYLAND D E L .

San Luis Obispo Montrose Dayton Gunnison/ Bakersfield WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES) Clarksburg Springfield Indianapolis Crested Hays Las Vegas Telluride Parkersburg Shenandoah Salisbury Butte Santa Maria Page/ Cincinnati WV Valley (Reagan National) Cortez Pueblo Durango K A N S A S Kansas City Lake Powell St. Louis Santa Barbara Charlottesville Burbank Huntington Charleston Louisville Alamosa Garden City Lewisburg Richmond Farmington Great Bend LOS ANGELES Long Beach Lexington Beckley Lynchburg Ontario Dodge City Norfolk/Virginia Beach Flagstaff Wichita Orange County Roanoke V I R G I N I A KENTUCKY Newport News/Williamsburg Liberal A R I Z O NA Springfield Carlsbad Tri-Cities Regional Prescott Greensboro/High Point/Winston-Salem Palm Springs Raleigh/Durham NORTH M I S S O U R I Paducah Amarillo Show Low Tulsa San Diego Knoxville Albuquerque CA R O L I NA Nashville Imperial Northwest Greenville New Bern Phoenix/Scottsdale Oklahoma City Charlotte Arkansas Asheville Fayetteville/Ft. Bragg TENNESSEE Yuma ARKANSAS Greenville/ Jacksonville OKLAHOMA Spartanburg Chattanooga Memphis Lubbock Little NEW MEXICO Wilmington Tucson Rock Huntsville/ Columbia Florence Myrtle Beach Decatur SOUTH Atlanta CA R O L I NA Hobbs Charleston Dallas/ Augusta Birmingham El Paso Fort Worth Dallas (Love) Hilton Head Island Monroe Midland/ ATLANTIC Montgomery GEORGIA Odessa Jackson Shreveport TEXAS Savannah A L A BA M A Waco OCEAN Tyler Pierre Huron

Riverton

Killeen

Kapalua

Pacific Ocean

0

50 50

100

LOUISIANA

College Station Alexandria

100 150

Maui

Kona

Hilo

Route lines reflect flights operated by United Airlines, Continental Airlines, Inc. and/or their regional partners. For accurate flight schedules, please see www.united.com or www.continental.com. © 2011 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

150 Miles 200 Kilometers

100

0

200

300

400 Miles

McAllen

Harlingen Brownsville

Gulf Of Mexico

Ft. Myers

MEXICO

100

200

300

400

500

Boston

BAHAMAS

Key West 0

BERMUDA

OnePass Eligible Service

Freeport

OMB No. 1651-0111

Welcome to the United States I-94 Arrival/Departure Record Instructions This form must be completed by all persons except U.S. Citizens, returning resident aliens, aliens with immigrant visas, and Canadian Citizens visiting or in transit.

Type or print legibly with pen in ALL CAPITAL LETTERS. Use English. Do not write on the back of this form.

This form is in two parts. Please complete both the Arrival Record (Items 1 through 17) and the Departure Record (Items 18 through 21).

When all items are completed, present this form to the CBP Officer.

Item 9 - If you are entering the United States by land, enter LAND in this space. If you are entering the United States by ship, enter SEA in this space.

5 U.S.C. § 552a(e)(3) Privacy Act Notice: Information collected on this form is required by Title 8 of the U.S. Code, including the INA (8 U.S.C. 1103, 1187), and 8 CFR 235.1, 264, and 1235.1. The purposes for this collection are to give the terms of admission and document the arrival and departure of nonimmigrant aliens to the U.S. The information solicited on this form may be made available to other government agencies for law enforcement purposes or to assist DHS in determining your admissibility. All nonimmigrant aliens seeking admission to the U.S., unless otherwise exempted, must provide this information. Failure to provide this information may deny you entry to the United States and result in your removal.

CBP Form I-94 (05/08) OMB No. 1651-0111

Arrival Record Admission Number

000000000 00

1. Family Name 2. First (Given) Name

3. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY)

4. Country of Citizenship

5. Sex (Male or Female)

6. Passport Issue Date (DD/MM/YY)

7. Passport Expiration Date (DD/MM/YY)

8. Passport Number

9. Airline and Flight Number

10. Country Where You Live

11. Country Where You Boarded

12. City Where Visa Was Issued

13. Date Issued (DD/MM/YY)

14. Address While in the United States (Number and Street) 15. City and State 16. Telephone Number in the U.S. Where You Can be Reached 17. Email Address

CBP Form I-94 (05/08)

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection

OMB No. 1651-0111

Departure Record Admission Number

Codeshare / OnePass Service

Treasure Cay Marsh Harbour Ft. Lauderdale/Hollywood North Eleuthera Governors Harbour Miami Bimini Nassau Andros Town Cat Island

Sarasota/Bradenton West Palm Beach

Corpus Christi

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection

U.S. Customs Declaration All passengers (or one per family) are required to complete a Customs Declaration before arrival in the U.S. Write in English, in capital letters. Be sure to include the street name and number, city and state of your address in the U.S. If you are transiting through the U.S., you may write TRANSIT and your final destination country. Please read both sides of the declaration and place your signature at the bottom of the form.

Expedited Passport Control and Customs Clearance in the U.S.—Global Entry™ U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) offers the Global Entry™ program in order to expedite the processing of pre-approved, low-risk international travelers entering the U.S. Upon returning from international travel, Global Entry™-enrolled travelers may bypass the regular passport control line and proceed to the Global Entry™ kiosk. Global Entry™ program participants scan their machine-readable passport, U.S. permanent resident card or U.S. visa on the kiosk, place their fingertips on the scanner for fingerprint verification and make a customs declaration. The kiosk issues the traveler a transaction receipt and directs the traveler to baggage claim and exit.

The following travelers are eligible for enrollment in Global Entry™: • Citizens and Residents of the U.S. • Citizens of Mexico who hold a U.S. visa • Citizens of the Netherlands who are enrolled in Privium • NEXUS members • SENTRI members Application for enrollment in the Global Entry™ program is available at the Global On-Line Enrollment System (GOES): https://goes-app.cbp.dhs.gov/. It costs only US$100 which covers enrollment in the program for a five-year period. The government will review the applicant’s information while a background investigation is conducted. Applicants undergo an interview with CBP officers at an Enrollment Center in the U.S. before final approval is granted.

Global Entry™ is available in the following cities: Atlanta (ATL), Boston (BOS), Chicago (ORD-O’Hare), Dallas (DFW), Detroit (DTW), Ft. Lauderdale (FLL), Honolulu (HNL), Houston (IAH-Intercontinental), Las Vegas (LAS), Los Angeles (LAX), Miami (MIA), New York (JFK), Newark (EWR-Liberty), Orlando (MCO-International and SFB-Sanford), Ottawa (YOW), Philadelphia (PHL), Seattle (SEA), San Francisco (SFO), San Juan (SJU), Washington, DC (IAD-Dulles) and Vancouver (YVR).

For detailed information, go to the U.S. Customs and Border Protection site, globalentry.gov.

Train Routes

MISSISSIPPI

Mobile Baton Pensacola Tallahassee Jacksonville Rouge Lake Charles Gainesville Ft. Walton Del Rio Gulfport/ Lafayette HOUSTON Beach Daytona New Biloxi San Antonio (INTERCONTINENTAL) F L O R I DA Beaumont/ Orleans Pt. Arthur Orlando Victoria Melbourne Tampa/St. Petersburg Laredo

Kahului

U.S. I-94 Arrival/Departure Record All travelers who hold a U.S. visa are required to complete an I-94 Arrival/Departure Record (one per person, including infants).

Write in English, in capital letters. Be sure to include the street name and number, city and state of your address in the U.S. If you are transiting through the U.S., you may write TRANSIT and your final destination country. The Customs and Border Protection officer will place the I-94 Departure Record in your passport after inspection. Make sure you return the Departure Record to the airline representative before boarding your return flight.

M I C H I GA N

Austin

Honolulu

0

Appleton/ Fox Cities

Sioux Falls

Casper Chadron W YO M I N G

N E VA DA

Atlantic Time Zone 8:00

N OVA

MAINE

North Bay

Sault Ste. Marie

Moncton Fredericton

City

Mont Tremblant

Sudbury

Houghton

Duluth

WISCONSIN

SOUTH Gillette Rapid City DA KO TA

U N I T E D S TAT E S

P R I N C E E DWAR D Sydney NEW ISLAND B RU N SW I C K Charlottetown

Presque Isle

O N TA R I O

Sheridan

Worland Jackson Hole

Chico

Thunder Bay

Dickinson Bismarck Fargo

Billings

Cody/ Yellowstone Idaho Falls

Klamath Falls

Eastern Time Zone 7:00

Williston NORTH DA KO TA

Îles de la Madeliene

Bathurst Saguenay

Glasgow

Lewistown M O N TA NA

Gulf Of St. Lawrence

Mont-Joli

Regina

Great Falls Helena

Crescent City

Baie-Comeau

Missoula

Eugene

PACIFIC OCEAN

Gaspe

Winnipeg

Portland

120

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • SEPTEMBER 2011

Edmonton

A L B E R TA

Kelowna Penticton

CUSTOMS & IMMIGRATION

United/Continental Seasonal Service United/Continental Future Service CITY United/Continental Hub (Red All Caps) Cities served Cities served by select airline partners Time zone boundary

NORTH AMERICAN CITIES

Newark (Liberty)

New Haven Stamford New York (Penn Station)

Philadelphia Wilmington Washington, DC

ATLANTIC OCEAN

000000000 00

18. Family Name 19. First (Given) Name

20. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY)

21. Country of Citizenship

CBP Form I-94 (05/08) See Other Side

STAPLE HERE

Left, U.S. Customs Declaration; right, U.S. I-94 form, which all U.S. visa holders must complete.

COUNTRIES PARTICIPATING IN THE U.S. VISA WAIVER PROGRAM (VWP): Andorra Australia Austria Belgium Brunei Czech Republic Denmark Estonia Finland France Germany Greece Hungary

Iceland Ireland Italy Japan Latvia Liechtenstein Lithuania Luxembourg Malta Monaco Netherlands New Zealand Norway

Portugal San Marino Singapore Slovakia Slovenia South Korea Spain Sweden Switzerland United Kingdom (British citizen or with unrestricted right of abode)

COUNTRIES PARTICIPATING IN THE GUAM-CNMI VISA WAIVER PROGRAM (VWP): Australia Brunei Hong Kong (SAR; with HKG identity card)

Japan

Malaysia Nauru New Zealand Papua New Guinea SIngapore

South Korea Taiwan (direct flight to Guam with passport and national ID card)

United Kingdom (including BNO)

George Town

600 Kilometers

0911

CUBA

R1_p115-120_HEM0911_Routemap.indd 1

12/08/2011 09:20

INFORMATION & TERMINAL DIAGRAMS

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • SEPTEMBER 2011

121

MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT. Whether your next flight is on United or one of the Star Alliance partners around the world, use the terminal diagrams on pages 122-124 to plan your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters and interterminal transportation.

CONTACT INFORMATION Reservations united.com 800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

Refunds united.com/refunds 800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

Automated Flight Information 800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

Customer Relations united.com/customerrelations Email: customerrelations@united.com 800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

Mileage Plus 24-Hour Account Information & Award Travel united.com/mileageplus 800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

Red Carpet Club™ united.com/redcarpetclub 866-UA-CLUBS (toll-free) 520-881-0500 (outside the U.S.) Hearing Impaired (TDD) 800-323-0170

Mileage Plus Visa Customer Service united.com/chase 800-537-7783

Meetings Plus 800-MEET-UAL (800-633-8825) Duty Free World 6095 NW 167th St. Suite D-4 Miami, FL 33015 USA 800-668-6182 United Vacations unitedvacations.com 800-32-TOURS (800-328-6877) Charter an Airplane united.com/charter

Reservaciones en Español 800-426-5561

Baggage Services united.com/baggage 800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

United Services unitedsvcs.com

United Cargo unitedcargo.com 800-UA-CARGO (800-822-2746)

Small Package SameDay Shipping Small Package Dispatch (SPD)— Airport-to-airport service: 800-722-5243

Employment Opportunities united.com/jobs 888-UAL-JOBS (888-825-5627) United EasyCheck-in EasyCheck-in kiosks are located on the concourse to assist customers who have experienced a misconnection or canceled flight.

Customers who have e-tickets and are traveling domestically may use the kiosk to: 1. Rebook on another flight 2. Obtain a boarding pass 3. Standby for the next flight to their destination

TRAVEL ASSISTANCE FOR DELAYED OR CANCELED FLIGHTS At United Airlines, our priority is safety and keeping an on-time schedule.

On occasion, canceling or delaying a flight is the only option to assure we maintain the highest safety standards.

Flight canceled? We automatically confirm you on the next United flight with available seats. EasyCheck-in® units located in the concourse will assist you with information and a boarding pass—it will also help you standby for an earlier United flight if one is scheduled. If you want to travel standby and aren’t boarded, we will transfer your name to the next United flight to your destination until you are onboard.

What about my bag? Baggage is boarded on the next flight if space is available. This means your bags may arrive before you. United will secure the bag until you claim it. See a baggage claim representative.

What if I have to stay overnight? If a flight is canceled to address a mechanical issue or another similar reason within our control, we will

STAYING FIT:

provide you with a hotel and meal voucher. For uncontrollable events— such as weather—we may be able to help you locate a local hotel at a discounted rate; however United does not cover hotel or meal expenses in this event. If we cannot retrieve your checked bag, overnight kits containing toiletries are available. Please see an agent.

What if the reason for my travel no longer exists? If as a result of the delay or cancellation you decide not to travel, call United reservations (1-800-UNITED-1) to get information on your options.

Help us help you stay informed. Sign up for EasyUpdate®, our messaging service. If your flight is canceled or delayed, EasyUpdate® will inform you.

Enroll at united.com/easyupdate. At home? Go to united.com for information or to check-in and print your boarding pass.

Your safety and satisfaction are important. We appreciate your business and apologize for any inconvenience you may have experienced.

INFLIGHT FLEXIBILITY

Knee Flexion: Lift knee toward chest, decreasing the amount of joint space at back of the knee.

Repeat with other leg.

Dorsiflexion: With heel on floor, point toes upward, decreasing the angle between the foot and front of the leg.

Repeat with other foot.

Eversion: With foot on floor, gently roll the sole of the foot inward. Repeat with other foot.

Knee Extension: Straighten knee, increasing the amount of joint space at the back of the knee to its full range. Repeat with other leg.

Plantar Flexion: Lift the heel and keep toes pointed toward the floor, increasing the angle between the top of the foot and front of the leg.

Repeat with other foot.

Inversion: With foot on floor, gently roll the sole of the foot outward. Repeat with other foot.

p121_HEM0911_ContactInfo.indd 121

04/08/2011 10:36

TERMINAL DIAGRAMS DOMESTIC & OVERSEAS United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite

IAH

United Easy Check-In/Customer Service Center Medical Center Interterminal Train (Security Clearance Required) Interterminal Train (Gate to Gate)

International Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop/Train Stop

HOUSTON GEORGE BUSH INTERCONTINENTAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

TERMINAL C Continental United United Express

TERMINAL A TERMINAL B Continental Express United Express B85A B85 B84A-S

TerminaLink

4

C14

TERMINAL D Continental Lufthansa Singapore Airlines

USO

2

4

2

1

C35 C36

C41 C40

C39

2 D1 3

2

E4

E8

E5

E7 E6

4

E15

E9

TERMINAL E Continental

E24

E1

E1

E2 E3

E1

0

?

1

?

5

4 C4

3

C42 2

C37

EWR

C4

2

3

?

C34

South Concourse

3

4

3

C4

C29

(Lower Level)

E1

2

C3

TERMINAL A (South Concourse) US Airways

International Arrivals 2

B67 B66 B65 B64 B63A B63

C3

A19 A20

B60 B61 B62 B62A

1

A24

B68 B75 B69 B74 B70 B73 B71 B72A B71A B72

3

0

A25

(Lower Level)

0

Station

2

C3

A26

2

1

2

Station

C3

A17

D1

1 1

Connects Terminals A, B, C, D, & E via train

1

A18

D1

D8

D9

A D6

D7

D5

D6

A D4

D4

3

D3

4

?

C2

C27

2

2

C15

E1

3

C16

C21

C23

1 2

C17

C20

C22

5

5

A2 A1

B86

B87 B88

6

3

B86A

C2

Bus Station (A2)

A15 B79A B80 B79 A11 B77A A9 B81A B81 B77 A8 B76A A7 B83A B83 B76 Station

North Concourse

C2

A14 A12 A10

C18 C19

D1 D2

(North Concourse)

Continental Connection Air Canada

E23 3

E16

E22

E17

E21

E18

E20 E19

NEW YORK/NEWARK LIBERTY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

p122-124_HEM0911_TDiagrams.indd 122

04/08/2011 10:36

123

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • SEPTEMBER 2011

2

Immigration Baggage Claim Animal Relief Area

Transfer Shuttle (Gate to Gate) Walking Time in Minutes* Shuttle Stop

Ticketing/Check-in/Transfer Presidents Club Customer Service Center

*Walk times are approximate and may vary depending on individual walking speed and time of day.

ORD

CHICAGO/O’HARE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

DEN

EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

Concourse F

Concourse G

Concourse H

F14 F12 F11 F10 F9 F8 F7 F6 F5 F4 F3 F2 F1

E3 E2A E2 E1A E1

Concourse L Elevated Airport Transport System

Continental United United Express US Airways

Concourse C

E10

TE R M I N A L 2 United Express Air Canada US Airways

TE R M I N A L 3

Concourse B

Concourse E

(Lower Level)

Concourse K

DENVER INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

C2 C1 C4 C6 C3 C8 C5 C10 C7 C12 C9 C16 C11 B3 C18 B2 B4 C15 C18A B1 C17 B5 C20 B6 C22 C19 B7 C24 C21 B8 C26 C23 C28 C25 B9 C30 B10 C27 C32 B11 C29C31 B12 B13 TE R M I N A L 1 B14 B15 Continental B16 (Gates B1-B4) B17 United B18 B19 United Express B20 ANA B22 B21

B15 B17

B21

B16 B18

B22

C28-C39

Concourse C

C40-C50

Train

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SFO

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EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

Concourse D

Concourse C Continental United United Express

TE R M I N A L 2

Continental United United Express

Train

Gates D1-D30

Gates C1-C28

Gates 40-48 Gates 60-67 A2

TE R M I N A L 3

A1

Continental United United Express

Shuttle

TE R M I N A L 1 US Airways Gates 20-36

Gates 68-90

(Lower Level)

A4

A6

A3

A5

A14

A22

A15

A21

Concourse A Continental Express United Express Copa Airlines South African Airways Virgin Atlantic

A25

A32

B38-B48

B35-B51 Shuttle Bus

Z Gates

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B63-B79

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MAIN TERMINAL

Gates G91-G102

I N T E R N A T I O N A L TE R M I N A L

Gates A1-A12

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04/08/2011 10:36

TERMINAL DIAGRAMS

CLE

CLEVELAND HOPKINS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

LAX

LOS ANGELES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

Concourse C

C17

C18

C16

C19

C11

C14

C20 1

C21

C9

1

C5

?

C10

C2

C25

4

C8

C6

D10 D12 D11 1 D14

D4 D6 D5 2

?

D3 D2

3

67A

Continental Express Continental Connection

D25

69A

TE R M I N A L 4

TE R M I N A L 5

TE R M I N A L 6 Continental United Copa Airlines

US Airways and some Continental international flights arrive at Concourse A.

TOKYO/NARITA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Fourth Floor 37 38

45 46

35 36

Third Floor 27

31

33

26

80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88

70A

71B

70B

73

72

75A 74 76

75B 77

TE R M I N A L 7 TE R M I N A L 8 United United United Express United Express

GUAM INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

Satellite 2

Security Checkpoint

23

MAIN TERMINAL Continental

22

34

21

32 47

Café

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South Wing TERMINAL 1 Continental United Air Canada Air China 51 ANA 52 53 Asiana Airlines 54 Austrian Airlines EGYPTAIR 55 Lufthansa 56 Scandinavian Airlines Singapore Airlines 57 SWISS THAI 58 Turkish Airlines

FRA

GUM

24

25

68B

69B

D17

41

60 62 64 66 68A

67B

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D21

43 42 44

71A

61 63 65

D28

NRT

8 4B

TO M B R A D L E Y I N T E R N A T I O N A L TE R M I N A L ANA, Asiana Airlines, EVA Air, Lufthansa, Singapore Airlines, SWISS, THAI, Turkish Airlines

C4

1

1

12

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Underground Tunnel

D7 D9 D8

TE R M I N A L 1 US Airways

2

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C27 C26

TE R M I N A L 2 Air Canada Air China Air New Zealand Virgin Atlantic

1

C3

C29

1

C24

C7

1

C22 C23

TE R M I N A L 3

Continental Continental Express United United Express Air Canada

4 5

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17

Food Court

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Satellite 1

Air New Zealand flights arrive/depart at Terminal 2.

LHR

LONDON/HEATHROW INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT United Aegean Airlines Air New Zealand Asiana Airlines Austrian Airlines

FRANKFURT INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

bmi Brussels Airlines Croatia Airlines LOT Polish Airlines Lufthansa

South African Airways SWISS TAM Airlines TAP Portugal US Airways

Heathrow Express Sky Line Train Gates E1-E26

B45 B44 B43 B1-B41

Pier D

B27 B28 B23

Pier B

B26

TERMINAL 1

B25 B24 B22

Lufthansa Tower Lounge (Level 5)

B10-B20

er C

Gates C1-C9

Pi

Pi

TE R M I N A L 2

er

A

Pier E

B46

Gates D1-D54

B47 B48 B42

Gates A1-A65

TERMINAL 5 Pedestrian Tunnel

Continental United Aegean Airlines Adria Airways Air Canada Air China ANA Asiana Airlines

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TE R M I N A L 1

Austrian Airlines Croatia Airlines EGYPTAIR LOT Polish Airlines Lufthansa Scandinavian Airlines Singapore Airlines

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TERMINAL 3 Air Canada Air China ANA Blue1 EGYPTAIR Emirates Scandinavian Airlines Singapore Airlines THAI Turkish Airlines Virgin Atlantic

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04/08/2011 10:37

THE HEMI Q&A: Donna Karan » CONTINUED FROM PAGE 48

“My entire life changed, but I had to get the work done and I couldn’t think about anything else. That is about as zen as you can get.”

KARAN: I think love is out there for you.

It’s interesting how many millions and millions of people are out there, and how you arrive at that one person. It’s all in the cards, quite honestly.

HEMISPHERES: So you believe in a path.

Have you ever felt as if you are off it? ah-ha moments. When my daughter was born and my boss died and I had to come up with an entire line at the same time: That was an ah-ha moment. My entire life changed. It was a thunderstorm.

Bigger than life. But I had to get the work done and I couldn’t think about anything else. You are in the moment.

That is about as zen as you can get.

HEMISPHERES: Is incorporating Reiki into

HEMISPHERES: When you launched your

the program your way of trying to move people beyond its gooey new-age stigma?

own label in 1984, did you know that you were making something that would be so transformative?

KARAN: That’s exactly right. Right now I’m giving Reiki to someone.

KARAN: It was actually selfish. I wanted to make clothing for myself and my friends. So that’s what I started doing.

Then I needed the shoes, I needed the hosiery, so I kept designing.

HEMISPHERES: Is the Urban Zen collection

notably different from your other lines?

KARAN: The Urban Zen line is for someone who has an ease and confidence in the way she dresses. I start with a bodysuit and leggings and build from there. I believe in clothes that have to go from day into evening. Basically, if you can’t sleep in it and go out in it, I don’t want to know about it. It’s not about a season. It’s not about doing wholesale.

It’s about addressing the mind and body and spirit. With Urban Zen, I don’t have to design a collection every four months, like with DKNY and Donna Karan. I only show when I develop something new.

And a percentage of the sales goes to the foundation.

HEMISPHERES: The Urban Zen Integrative Therapy Program just launched its second year of training. How has the response been?

126

KARAN: It’s kind of mind-boggling.

People who never thought it could be possible are reacting positively.

The nurses respond to it, the doctors respond to it, as well as patients and their loved ones. Next we are teaching nurses in Ohio.

HEMISPHERES: Right now? Who? Are you trained in Reiki?

KARAN: You know, I always had a high level of energy. I guess that’s pre y obvious. I can feel the “white energy” in my fingers. But I started practicing as we were incorporating Reiki into the program.

HEMISPHERES: How do you find the time to do all of this and still maintain your labels? You must have an insane schedule.

KARAN: I have an extraordinary group of people around me who understand the language of Donna Karan and DKNY. But I try to do yoga every morning. My morning time is very important to me, because once I get out of the house, it’s over. There aren’t enough hours in the day. I’m usually up till two.

HEMISPHERES: I wanted to ask you about your late husband, Stephan Weiss. You met him when you were 18, but when you saw him again after your divorce, you essentially realized you were soulmates.

Did that make you think that love is a matter of destiny?

KARAN: Every day! There are two sides of me: feeling guilty that I’m not with my daughter and granddaughter enough, and then feeling like I need to constantly call the office. I don’t think that will ever change. But we can’t all be perfect. I heard that the Dalai Lama doesn’t like traveling on planes. See? Even the Dalai Lama has a thing. We all have our things. I am as much urban chaos as I am urban zen.

HEMISPHERES: Urban Chaos! Your next line! [Karan chuckles] Overall, you make me feel optimistic about someone using creativity to benefit the world around her.

KARAN: We are living in a world of chaos. We have to be responsible.

Designing for me was about caring for the person. Then it just expanded to incorporate all of the aspects of a person. Especially if suffering broke into their lives.

HEMISPHERES: Is that a worldview you

came around to after the tragedies you suffered in your own life?

KARAN: I had no time. My mother died the day of a show. My boss died when a collection was due. My husband passed away near a show. I didn’t have a moment. I think I spread out the mourning every day of my life in my work. But now we are doing the work every day at Urban Zen. And now I have to get off the phone. It’s Friday and everyone is freaking out. It’s called the Friday Freak-Out. Sorry. I go a go.

MIKE ALBO, a freelance writer in Brooklyn,

has had Reiki before and kind of loves it.

SEPTEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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» CONTINUED FROM PAGE 65

“THE BOLSHOI THEATRE IS A LIVING, BREATHING ORGANISM,” SAYS ITS GENERAL DIRECTOR, ANATOLY IKSANOV. “IT NEEDS TO ADVANCE TO SURVIVE.” construction company President Medvedev hired in 2009 to oversee the final stages of the renovation. He’s standing below the original stage on one of the four new subterranean levels that doubled the size of the historic theater to 80,000 square meters. This particular level has a chamber orchestra stage out of a futuristic flick. The room looks empty at first, but the floor is segmented like a puzzle. Using a complex hydraulic system, platforms rise up, turning a flat floor into a raised stage with rows of tiered seating for 300, like a pop-up book. The German engineers behind this underground stage gave the same hydraulic advantage to the expanded 135-capacity orchestra pit.

As Sidorov points out that there can be no more than a two millimeter gap between each section, he couldn’t be more excited. If you didn’t know better—if it weren’t for his spotless suit and uncalloused hands—you’d think he’d renovated the Bolshoi himself. His twohour tour of the theater includes stories of contacting the great-grandsons of the tradesman who provided the original front hall tile, the hand-looming process that took three years to dissect and then

128

weave the exact fabric from the period of Alexander II, the restoration of acoustics that the Soviet era destroyed.

An observation about a replica electric lamp can make Sidorov sigh. It’s a happiness that a ends a job well done and almost finished.

His company picked up the project a er the renovation had dragged on for four miserable years. Everything came to a deadlock in 2009—tales of corruption and ineptitude had reached their zenith, and nine general contractors had come and gone.

Iksanov appealed to Medvedev, who took on the Bolshoi as a personal project, creating a special group in the Ministry of Culture to oversee it and hiring Summa Capital to take on the final renovations. With the energy and resources behind a Medvedev-backed project, the estimated 2015 finish date suddenly shi ed to 2011. Summa Capital immediately expanded the 24-hour workforce from 400 to 3,600 people.

Nineteen hundred of those workers are restorers and cra sman of gypsum, wood, bronze, fabric, handmade stucco, dyestuff and more. Of the 1,900 restorers, 162 are gilders.

THE AUDIENCE HALL of the Bolshoi Theatre has six levels of balconies, each broken up into recessed boxes. Shop lights make each look like a backlit shadow box. On a four-foot scaffolding, a gilder sits on the side of her hip, her knees and feet tucked in at her side.

She uses her finger to spread petroleum jelly on the back of her hand. She picks up a fanned brush made of squirrel tail hair and brushes it over the thin layer of petroleum before touching the top of the brush to a thin leaf of gold resting on a suede pillow. When she picks up the gold leaf, it shivers. The tiny, lustrous square is hand-hammered so thin that light shines through it. It is a tenth of the thickness of a spider’s silk.

It will cling to every crease of a fingerprint on an oily finger. Rub it between your fingers and it disappears. But place it on molding that has been prepped with clay and egg and a swipe of distilled alcohol like vodka, and the frail leaf bonds to it, creating the illusion of solid gold. “No golden paint will have such a noble effect, such a bright color,” says Vera Babich, a third-generation gilder. “Over time, gold paint darkens and never achieves the same look.”

When all is said and done, the audience hall will be adorned with five kilograms of gold. It will cover the ornate doubleheaded eagles of Imperial Russia that replaced communism’s hammer and sickle above the czar’s box, and rim the six balconies that surround the woodpaneled, violin-shaped hall, which is ready to reclaim its top spot in the world of acoustics. Three hundred kilograms of gold surround the two-ton chandelier. Each piece of gold is individually cut, so not a scrap goes to waste.

Babich personally trained 60 of the workers, including her two daughters.

“From my childhood my father was a gilder and took me to his projects. I didn’t have to study—he taught me to gild and polish on every job.” Not everyone catches on so easily. Sometimes it takes two years just to learn how to prep the molding.

Babich didn’t always know she wanted CONTINUED ON PAGE 130 »

SEPTEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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» CONTINUED FROM PAGE 128

to be a gilder. She got a medical degree after college, but even before that, she had another passion. “When I was younger, my parents traveled too much for me to attend classes,” she says. “I love my work and my job, but it was my dream to be a ballerina.”

INNATE TALENT POSSESSES the eyes first, a glimmer as a dancer holds a pose: a curved neck, extended chin, the unfurled fingers of a buoyant hand held alo in a quiet dance studio. Then the first strike of a piano key shoots through the body, animating a fierce delicacy of movement.

If you’ve never seen a ballet, or ballerina, or a TV broadcast of tiny people leaping around a faraway stage, it doesn’t matter. Talent announces itself as a force, a biological draw and immediate impulse to never, ever take your eyes off of this inhuman being. It shouldn’t be so easy for a novice to tell a principal dancer from her understudy, but it is.

Anastasia “Nastia” Meskova is easy to pick out, but then again she isn’t your typical Bolshoi ballerina. “It’s easy to see it in Nastia,” says Ludmila Semenyaka, Mescova’s master teacher and legendary prima ballerina for the Bolshoi. “You come to see a performance, and you can do nothing but watch her. You realize something strange is happening and you can’t explain why.”

Nastia is known equally for her fire and beauty. The 25-year-old has danced since she was two. She auditioned for

130

p060-65_131_HEM0911_Bolshoi.indd 130

the Bolshoi Ballet Academy at the age of eight—two years earlier than most—and now works as a soloist for the Bolshoi Ballet. The best part about her solo title, she says, is that it guarantees she and her five-year-old son can finally have an apartment to themselves during the few hours a day she has to enjoy it.

On most rehearsal days—10 hours long, minimum—her chestnut hair is swept up into a haphazard bun and she wears the uniform of most Bolshoi dancers: skirt, leotard under a wellworn, draped sweatshirt and the down booties marketed to mountain climbers but coopted by ballet students. What makes Nastia different is her presence.

An actress knows how to hold a room, harness intensity, study a character: the holy tenets of Russian ballet.

Russian ballet may share French technique and Italian style, but it owns emotional intensity. In the late 19th century, actor, director and coach Constantin Stanislavsky took ballerinas from their barres and taught them to live onstage as swans, sleeping princesses or starcrossed lovers. Character was about beauty and humanness. Shades of feeling and believable truth. Method acting before it had a name.

You can see it in Nastia as she watches herself in the mirror. Her movements aren’t the stoic poses and arches of the other girls. She’s aggressive and seductive. It makes sense that she’s taken with contemporary, modern and neoclassic dance pieces—forms traditionalist

SEPTEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

08/08/2011 09:31

SAVE 20%* Russia is slow to love. “Doing 1000 Years of Silence on tour in France last summer gave me freedom. It took me four or five months to change my mentality and let go,” says Nastia. “Russians just don’t understand contemporary dance. For me, it’s a pity, because why not? You should drive the car at every speed.”

Nastia straddles the Bolshoi changeover. She honed her modern style with choreographer and former Bolshoi artistic director Alexei Ratmansky before he took a position at American Ballet Company in New York. She’s worked with Sergei Filin, the Bolshoi Ballet’s new artistic director, in the past, respects him and believes he can bring good change to the Bolshoi. She danced on the historic stage before it was closed, and like many dancers, she blanches at the idea of any additions to her home theater, let alone massive hydraulic systems and four new floors. “The old building saw so many things. It’s no longer a place I know,” she sniffs. “I feel like they knocked down a cathedral and put up cardboard.”

The director for the piece she and a partner are working on, Wayne McGregor’s Chroma, will be in to watch the couples perform the piece after a couple of months of rehearsals. He’ll pick the lead couple or he may change them around. Nastia isn’t overly stressed about it, which also seems very un-ballerinalike. But with a child, she’s hyperaware that a retired ballerina’s pension isn’t much to live on. She doesn’t want to teach. She wants to live like principal dancer Nikolay Tsiskaridze, who judges on a show similar to American Idol when he’s not dancing. She wants to find multiple platforms for her talent. Maybe finish college. Or go back to acting.

“Onstage you spend all of you. All of your power, everything,” Nastia says.

“You must love it or you’ll look like a picture—flat. Right now, it is the love of my life. In Russia, you dance with your soul.”

She begins the dance again. It has soul, like a great ballerina. Like the Bolshoi Theatre will have again soon.

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Often, a painful scar results that can be permanent Recovery can take 6 weeks to 6 months or NEVER Considered by many to be antiquated, The Brown Procedure has been reported to be â&#x20AC;&#x153;treatment of choiceâ&#x20AC;?

No iatrogenic nerve or artery injuries as reported in the prestigious Journal of Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery (beware of imitators of The Brown Procedure that do not have the same proven track record over nearly 20 years)

Since 1988, BROWN HAND CENTER has been the destination of choice for patients from around the world who expect world-class comfort and care.

BROWN HAND CENTER is where The Brown Procedure was developed and where so many published medical journal articles originated, answering questions others could only ask. BROWN HAND CENTER is the leader in carpal tunnel treatment, as well as all problems affecting the hand and upper extremity, such as arthritic joint problems, injuries and secondary reconstruction, replantation of amputated parts, and congenital birth deformities. When possible, the approach is minimally invasive to reduce patient pain, suffering and recovery time. The Brown Endoscopic Trigger Release (BETR) is another of the many innovations from Brown Hand Center used to treat a common problem, trigger finger. Similar to The Brown Procedure, The BETR utilizes two tiny skin openings to insert instrumentation (designed by Michael G. Brown, MD) to divide the A1 pulley, rather than cutting through normal tissue layers. This â&#x20AC;&#x153;minimally invasiveâ&#x20AC;? approach at BROWN HAND CENTER has allowed countless thousands of patients to return to normal activity in a relatively short period following an outpatient procedure. Many have returned home, thousands of miles away to other countries, the following day.

World-Class Comfort & Care At BROWN HAND CENTER, we maintain a philosophy of respect and kindness that guides everything we do. Often taken for granted, as we take our sight or hearing for granted, the hands are among the most complex parts of the body and loss of use is sorely missed and irreparable damage may be sustained if specialized care is not received. We want you to receive specialized care from the beginning, not just after a complication.

Brown Hand Center

BROWN HAND CENTER physicians, specialists in hand and upper extremity care, are available 24/7.

From children born with congenital birth deformities, sports injuries, to arthritis and other intrinsic diseases of the hand...Brown Hand Centerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hand and Microvascualr surgeons are LEADERS IN NOT ONLY HAND, BUT ALSO WRIST, ARM, ELBOW AND SHOULDER PROBLEMS. The emphasis is always on a minimally invasive approach, when possible, to minimize discomfort and recovery time.

BROWN HAND CENTERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S ideal is to make available to all the specialized care of a highly skilled and trained hand/microvascular surgeon and to help others understand this specialized field. BROWN HAND CENTERâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S message is seen in television and magazine ads worldwide.

800.214.4263 (HAND) Nationwide Locations

Delivering leading edge care with kindness, courtesy and compassion.

Providing â&#x20AC;&#x153;service as it should be.â&#x20AC;? TM

%*()%$ - $ $)%$!% % $!, - "" ( - ( ( Austin

www.brownhandcenter.com Patents Expired

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134

SEPTEMBER 2011 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

SUDOKU

THE NUMBERS GAME

BY REIKO MCLAUGHLIN

1. EASY

2. MEDIUM ANSWERS 1.

2.

3. MEDIUM

4. HARD

3.

SUDOKU © PUZPUZ PUZZLES

4.

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05/08/2011 15:42

Maybe it’s time to outsource… your dating life

Navigating today’s complex dating scene can be daunting, and busy professionals often wonder who to turn to for advice. We sat down with It’s Just Lunch dating expert PJ Osgood to discuss the difficulties of dating for singles on the go.

Here’s some of the savvy advice she gives to her clients.

Why is dating so challenging these days for career-focused singles?

Let’s face it—dating is challenging for everyone!

Throw a demanding professional or family life into the mix, and you can understand why someone hires IJL. Dating feels difficult because time is valuable, and it isn’t easy to efficiently manage a fruitful dating life. With our help, clients go out on dates with someone who already meets their essential requirements. That way, the only thing left to be determined is the chemistry.

What type of person uses It’s Just Lunch?

Clients come to me because the process of finding someone on their own can be overwhelming. Meeting people through family, friends, or online requires a lot of time and often doesn’t deliver results. Instead, they join IJL because they are ready to be proactive and want to take a professional approach to finding their compatible match.

So, that’s why they come to IJL? To meet their match?

“Great guys and women don’t circle around your block waiting for you to come out of your house.

You’ve got to market yourself.”

Absolutely! Our clients come to IJL because they have reached a point where they want to find someone special. They hire us as results-driven dating specialists. People hire professionals to handle so many aspects of their lives, so why not use a professional to help you find someone special? We are matchmaking professionals —this is what we do day in and day out. We take a personal approach and remain objective.

A successful love life for our clients is our goal.

What really differentiates IJL from the other dating options out there?

My clients look to me as their personal dating headhunter. At IJL, we meet with our clients face to face and identify the key characteristics they are looking for in a match. We learn what has and hasn’t worked for them in the past and put a positive plan in place. Then we introduce them to other like-minded singles in a casual, lowpressure first date setting where they can truly be themselves. Because in the end, it’s just lunch!

IT’S JUST LUNCH has professional dating specialists just like PJ all around the world.

Call us and discover how we can help you create a more rewarding dating life today.

Alabama • Arizona • Arkansas • California • Colorado • Connecticut • Delaware • Florida • Georgia • Idaho • Illinois • Indiana • Iowa • Kansas • Kentucky • Louisiana • Maine • Maryland • Massachusetts • Michigan • Minnesota • Mississippi • Missouri • Nebraska • Nevada • New Jersey • New Mexico • New York • North Carolina • Ohio • Oklahoma • Oregon • Pennsylvania • Rhode Island • South Carolina • Tennessee • Texas • Utah • Virginia • Washington • Washington DC • Wisconsin • Canada • Ireland • Australia • Thailand • Singapore

Real People. Real Dates.

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Sara Darling

Betty Sinclair

Amy Brinkman

Visit ITSJUSTLUNCH.COM or call 1.800.858.6526

30/11/2010 14:56

premium offerings WELCOME ABOARD Sit back, relax and enjoy your flight. Our chefs and professional culinary team are pleased to offer tasty selections with regional and global influences. These meals are designed exclusively for customers seated in our premium cabins. To complement your meal, be sure to sample one of our specially selected wines.

Chef Gerry Gulli Chef Gerry Gulli is responsible for menu design and development. In this role, he combines his love of food with his interest in aviation. He has been widely recognized for his creativity in designing menus with broad international and regional appeal. In his free time, Chef Gerry enjoys trying new dishes with family and friends. We invite you to try one of his favorite recipes below.

POMEGRANATE-GLAZED DUCK BREAST WITH JASMINE RICE AND CASHEWS D U C K B R E A S T P R E P A R AT I O N

8 boneless duck breasts, skin on, 7 ounces each Kosher salt and white pepper 3 tablespoons canola oil

Score skin side only of each breast (crisscross). Season all sides with salt and pepper. Heat oil in a sauté pan over high heat. Sear both sides ensuring the skin is golden brown and crispy. Transfer skin side up to a pre-heated 350F oven until the internal temperature reaches 160F (8-10 minutes). Drizzle with sauce and garnish with fresh pomegranate seeds (if available) to serve.

P O M E G R A N AT E S A U C E

2 tablespoons shallot, roughly chopped 2 garlic cloves, minced 1 bay leaf ½ cup port wine 1 cup pomegranate juice 2 cups prepared demi-glace 2 tablespoons olive oil Salt and pepper

Sauté shallot and garlic in oil until lightly caramelized. Add wine and reduce by one-third. Add juice, demi-glace and bay leaf, bring to a boil and simmer 2-3 minutes to a syrup-like consistency. Remove from heat and strain. Season with salt and pepper.

JA SMINE RICE WITH C A SHEWS

2 cups Jasmine rice, steamed 1 teaspoon chives, chopped ⅓ cup chopped cashews

Combine all ingredients and mix well.

Shown plated with wok-fried Chinese broccoli.

W IN E PA IR IN G

Bouchard Côte de BeauneVillages 2009 Pinot Noir’s ancestral home, Burgundy, usually shows a softer, lighter version of the grape, but earth, mushroom and tart fruit notes offer complexity as well.

Doug Frost, Master Sommelier and Master of Wine

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Sweet or Savory Edible pomegranate seeds are surrounded by crimson pulp that is rich in sweet-tart flavor. This fruit is excellent in both sweet and savory dishes, and is often used in juices.

03/08/2011 16:33

à la carte

ALL DAY ON MOST FLIGHTS OVER 2.5 HOURS

PRINGLES® ORIGINAL POTATO CRISPS $2.99 2.6 ounce can TWIZZLERS® STR AWBERRY TWISTS $2.99 4 ounce box TWO-BITE® CINNAMON ROLLS $2.99 3 mini rolls BLUE DIAMOND® ROASTED SALTED ALMONDS $4.99 6 ounce can

breakfast

ON MOST MORNING FLIGHTS OVER 3.5 HOURS

TWO-BITE® CINNAMON ROLLS $2.99 3 mini rolls YOGURT PARFAIT $5.49 A cool, crunchy combination of low-fat vanilla yogurt with mixed berries and granola.

choicemenu AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE ON MOST NORTH AMERICA AND LATIN AMERICA FLIGHTS. MOST FLIGHTS ACCEPT CREDIT/DEBIT CARDS ONLY.

HAM & CHEDDAR RUSTIC CIABAT TA SANDWICH $5.79 Shaved ham and cheddar cheese on a rustic ciabatta square served with Dijon mustard-mayo sauce (served cold).

CHEESE & FRUIT PL ATE $7.49 A delicious selection of Brie, Gouda, Muenster and cheddar cheeses, dried fruit and pecan halves.

lunch & dinner

ON MOST AFTERNOON AND EVENING FLIGHTS OVER 3.5 HOURS

ASIAN NOODLE SAL AD $5.49 A chilled noodle salad topped with stir-fried vegetables, sweet chile chicken breast and green onions.

CHEESE & FRUIT PL ATE $7.49 A delicious selection of Brie, Gouda, Muenster and cheddar cheeses, dried fruit and pecan halves.

TURKEY SANDWICH $7.99 Smoked turkey with provolone cheese and lettuce on a pretzel roll with stone-ground mustard-mayo sauce.

THAI CHICKEN WR AP $8.59 A healthy combination of grilled chicken breast, romaine lettuce, carrots, and red and yellow bell peppers wrapped in a tortilla with Thai aïoli sauce.

GRILLED CHICKEN SPINACH SAL AD $9.49 A healthy choice of grilled chicken, cherry tomatoes and carrots over spinach and romaine lettuce, topped off with crispy onions and served with balsamic vinaigrette.

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beverages N O N -A L C O H O L I C Complimentary and available on most flights.

Coca-Cola,® Coke Zero,® Diet Coke®

Mr. & Mrs. T’s® Bloody Mary Mix

Sprite,® Sprite Zero®

Minute Maid®: Cranberry Apple Juice Cocktail, Orange Juice

Seagram’s®: Ginger Ale, Seltzer Water, Tonic Water

Bottled Water

Freshbrew™ Journeys Coffee

Decaffeinated Coffee

Hot Tea

Mott’s®: Apple Juice, Tomato Juice

AVA IL A BL E ON SEL EC T ROU T E S Cappuccino, Espresso and Specialty Regional Teas

ALCOHOLIC Alcoholic beverages are available on most flights.

Complimentary in premium cabins. Priced as shown in economy cabin. Complimentary in economy class on flights within Asia and trans-Pacific international flights.

S P E C I A LT Y C O C K TA I L

snackboxes ALL DAY ON MOST FLIGHTS OVER 2.5 HOURS

MO S T FLIGH T S E XCEP T H AWA II Salvador’s® Margarita $7 MO S T U. S . M A INL A ND FLIGH T S T O/ FROM H AWA II Trader Vic’s® Mai Tai $9

TAPAS $8.49 B E E R $6

Oloves Marinated Olives

Roasted Red Pepper Bruschetta Spread

Wild Garden™ Hummus

W I N E S $7

Rondelé® Peppercorn Parmesan Cheese Spread

House Red and White

Fratelli Laurieri Scrocchi Al Rosmarino Crackers

Jacobs Cream Crackers

IN T ER N AT ION A L & MO S T FLIGH T S T O/ FROM H AWA II Sparkling Wine

Partners® Olive Oil and Sea Salt Crackers

Emerald® Natural Almonds

Fantis® Ouzo Candy Mint

®

CL ASSIC $7.49

Snyder’s® of Hanover Mini Pretzels

Crackers

Pepperidge Farm® Goldfish

Hormel Homeland® Hard Salami

Cheddar Gourmet Cheese Spread

Jelly Belly® Assorted Flavors

Chips Ahoy!™ 100-Calorie Thin Crisps

SAVORY $7.29

Tortilla Chips

Mild Salsa

Granola Bar

Fruit & Nut Mix

Dark Chocolate Covered Pretzel

Budweiser®, Miller® Lite, Heineken®

Special wine selections are available for premium cabin customers.

Please ask your flight attendant about today’s selections.

S P I R I T S $7

ABSOLUT® Vodka

Bacardi® Superior Light Rum

Bombay Sapphire® Dry Gin

Canadian Club Whisky

Dewar’s® “White Label®” Blended Scotch Whisky

Jack Daniel’s® Tennessee Whiskey

Jim Beam Black® Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey

®

L I Q U E U R S & C O G N A C $7

Bailey’s® Irish Cream

Courvoisier® VSOP Fine Champagne Cognac

MO S T IN T ER N AT ION A L FLIGH T S Crown Royal® The Glenlivit® Single Malt Canadian Whisky Scotch Whisky

DISARONNO® Amaretto*

Grand Marnier®

Kahlua®*

* Also domestic premium cabins Alcohol may be served to customers over 21 only. By FAA rule, we may not serve alcohol to customers who appear intoxicated. Customers are limited to one alcoholic beverage at a time during service. Only alcohol provided by United and served by flight attendants may be consumed.

We are proud to recycle aluminum cans, newspapers, and plastic bottles on eligible flights.

Menu and beverage options may vary by flight. We apologize if your preferred choice is not available.

9(1',1*

I N N O VAT I V E S O L U T I O N S

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03/08/2011 16:35

ESSENTIAL GEAR.

Invented in the United States. Made in Switzerland.

Atacama Field Chronograph No. 1883: 47mm, gunmetal PVD steel case with screw case back and screw-down crown, antireflective sapphire crystal, water resistant to 100 meters, alarm feature, grey suede strap with gunmetal PVD steel buckle, and Luminox self-powered illumination. Swiss Made.

Preferred timepiece of outdoor enthusiasts. Luminox.com Available At These Fine Retailers NATIONWIDE Bass Pro | Cabela’s | Eddie Bauer | Orvis | Tourneau Watch Gear | ALABAMA Mark’s Outdoor Sports, Birmingham | Woods & Water, Tuscaloosa | ARIZONA Ganem Jewelers, Phoenix | Scottsdale Fine Jewelers, Scottsdale | ARKANSAS Mack's Prairie Wings, Stutgart | CALIFORNIA Total Time, Arcadia | Timepiece Network, Burbank | Julianna’s Fine Jewelry, Corte Madera | Time Zone, Costa Mesa | Ara Karkazian Jewelers, Fresno | Time Center, Huntington Beach | Feldmar Watch, Los Angeles | Tic Time, Ontario | Pasadena Watch Co, Pasadena | Tic Time, Redondo Beach | Prime Time UTC, San Diego | Ravits, San Francisco | Gene Hiller Menswear, Sausalito | Vana Watch, South Pasadena | Time Spot, Thousand Oaks | Watch City, Torrance | Valencia Time Center, Valencia | One More Time, Ventura | FLORIDA Bere Jewelers, Gulf Breeze | Ferguson Jewelers, Homestead | Shooters Firearms, Jacksonville | London Watch Co., Miami | Peoples Jewelers, Miami | Watches Plus, Orange Park | Jay’s Watches, Orlando | Orlando Watch Company, Winter Park | GEORGIA It’s About Time Stores, Atlanta | Worthmore Jewelers, Atlanta | Armen & Joseph Jewelers, Duluth | D. Geller & Son, Smyrna | Steel’s Jewelry, Valdosta | HAWAII Japaha, Honolulu | Kupulau, Honolulu | Olivia Euro, Honolulu | ILLINOIS Chicago Clock Company, Chicago | Howard Frum Jewelers, Chicago | Mari Lou's Fine Jewelers, Orland Park | INDIANA G Thrapp Jewelers, Indianapolis | Ashcraft Jewelers, Munci | Albert's Jewelers, Schererville | IOWA Herteen & Stocker, Iowa City | KANSAS Randy Cooper, Wichita | LOUISIANA Bowie Outfitters, Baton Rouge | Coleman Adler, New Orleans | MAINE Kittery Trading Post, Kittery | MARYLAND Little Treasury, Gambrillis | Bensons Jewelers, Washington DC | MICHIGAN Thomas A Davis, Holland | MISSISSIPPI Sollberger Watches, Ridgeland | NEVADA Citadel Safe, Las Vegas | Time Square, Reno | NEW JERSEY J.Vincent, Colts Neck | Campmor, Paramus | Orilogio, Short Hills | Orogio, Tenafly | NEW MEXICO Shelton Jewelers, Albuquerque | NEW YORK Arrow Army Navy, Bronx | Mohawk Army Navy, Schenechtedy | Barney's, New York | Central Watch Band Stand, New York | Las Americas, New York | Paragon, New York | Tent n Trails, New York | United Uniforms, Rochester | Woodrow Jewelers, Rye | NORTH CAROLINA Sharon Luggage, Charlotte | OHIO Gino's Jewelers, Cleveland | Ricky Tanno, Cleveland | OREGON Klondike Gold Jewelers, Portland | PENNSYLVANIA Tanner's Sports, Jamison | Munn's Diamond Gallery, Lemoyne | Jems Jewels & Gold, North Whales | WhiteHall Army Navy, Whitehall | RHODE ISLAND Saltzman's Watches and More, Cranston | Watches Etc., Middletown | SOUTH CAROLINA Grady's Great Outdoors, Anderson | TEXAS Throckmortons Watch, Austin | Mon Cadeau, Dallas | Markham Fine Jewelers, Frisco | Cristianis Jewelers, Midland | Charles Gurinsky’s, San Antonio | VIRGINIA Belle View Jewelers, Alexandria | WASHINGTON Swissa Jewelers, Seattle | WISCONSIN The Watch Company, Appleton | THE CARIBBEAN John Bull Ltd., Nassau, BS | Island Companies, Grand Cayman, BWI | Joe's Jewelery, St. Maarten | Ballerina, St. Maarten | Royal Caribbean, St. Thomas, USVI

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12/08/2011 08:41

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12/08/2011 08:38