United Airlines Hemispheres Magazine May 2010 by Ahmed Aamir

A STAR ALLIANCE MEMBER PLUS: RUFUS WAINWRIGHT, TOKYO STREET FASHIONTHREEAND...BABIES?PERFECT DAYS: SEOUL 12 SPECTACULAR ADVENTURES ( AND HOW TO MAKE THEM HAPPEN ) IN THE WORKSHOP WITH SEGWAY MASTERMIND DEAN KAMEN BATTLING THE INVASIVE ASIAN CARP—WITH A FORK

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66 contents UNITED.COM | HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM BELGEFRÉDÉRICBYPHOTOGRAPH Changdeokgung Palace YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY 8276 THE

From

3PD | P. 82 May EXCELLENT ADVENTURES Warm

While still intensely traditional, Seoul’s modern incarnation is also, by turns, trendy and tech-savvy. weather is here, and with it comes the yearning to get out of town and ﬁnd new thrills. whitewater rafting to volcanoclimbing, we’ve rounded up the best ways to do just that. CREATOR Dean Kamen, inventor of the Segway, is back in the lab and working to inspire the next generation of innovators. KEVIN GRAY PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN SAELINGER THREE PERFECT DAYS: SEOUL North of the Han River lies a staid residential city; to the south, a modern, trendy destination. We sample the best of both worlds.

BY LAYLA SCHLACK

By Alyssa Giacobbe 40 Wheels Porsche cruises into the sedan market. By Mike Guy 42 Whereabouts Photographer Thomas Struth enjoys Tokyo’s sights. Style London Mod mecca Carnaby Street celebrates its 50th birthday in style. // By Christine H. O’Toole 46 Sound Rufus Wainwright keeps things simple on his latest album. By Alan Light 48 Vision Filmmaker Thomas Balmes talks about his adorable documentary, Babies

By Ethan Brown

139 Beverages & Food UNITED.COM | HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

By James A. Frank 57 Food & Drink With Asian carp threatening to overtake the bayou, a Louisiana chef threatens to overtake the ﬁsh. Will diners care?

61 Industry In times of economic turmoil, gold remains the, er, gold standard. // By Douglas Rushkoff Artifact A souvenir from the ﬁeld Movies, television and audio programming Route Maps and Terminal Diagrams Crossword and sudoku In Transit Who’s sitting next to you?

By Sharon McDonnell 35 Goods CULTURE 38 Tech Vringo puts it all on the line with new ring tone technology.

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COVER IMAGE Brecht Evens // www.magnetreps.com 4053 WRITE TO US: Hemispheres.ed@ink-publishing.com HEMISPHERES MAGAZINE 68 Jay St. Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 SUBSCRIBE TO HEMISPHERES For a free subscription to our monthly eMag and to access recent issues, go to HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM 8 Comments 11 Voices Behind the scenes of United’s operations 14 Connections Mobile check-in is easy and eco-friendly 16 Wish You Were Here DISPATCHES 19 Notes From All Over It’s raining ﬁsh in Australia; chocolate reaches new heights in Italy; Tokyo street fashion lands on the runway; a famed Los Angeles train is back on track; and Chicago foodies glimpse the future. DIRECTIONS 25 News Where to stay, what to see, when to go. 30 Whirlwind Five hours in Seattle 33 Hero Bandleader Yoshio Toyama owes his career in jazz to the city of New Orleans. With the Wonderful World Jazz Foundation, he says thank you in a language everyone understands: music.

PLAY 109

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By Adam K. Raymond 50 Print Marlene Van Niekerk’s latest book, Agaat, offers an unﬂinching look at modern South Africa.

By Aaron Gell 53 Sports With a Zen approach to putting and driving, Thailand is fast becoming a top golf destination.

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KEVIN GRAY

? Hotels Take Manhattan Contributors HEMISPHERES A STAR ALLIANCE MEMBER THREE PERFECT DAYS: AUSTIN NEW YORK’S NEW LUXURY HOTEL BOOM CYNTHIA ROWLEY, ROBERTO CAVALLI AND LONDON’S TOP FASHION SCHOOL ROCKER KEITH RICHARDS BREAKING BAD’S BRYAN CRANSTON AND A VISIT TO THE CONSUMER ELECTRONICS SHOW 8

WHAT DO YOU THINK? WRITE TO US! Hemispheres.ed@ink-publishing.com HEMISPHERES MAGAZINE 68 Jay St. Suite

Our March feature on the surprising boom underway in New York’s luxury hotel industry drew an enthusiastic response from several readers, including Bill Foley, a senior copywriter for McCullough Creative, an advertising agency located in Dubuque, Iowa. “When did that magazine beneath my tray table get so cool?” he writes. “I loved reading about Ace, the Jane, the Standard and all the other hip new hotels that have been sprouting up in New York recently. Next time I’m in town, I’ll make a beeline for that loft in the Ace.” The hotel’s big selling point? The inclusion of an acoustic guitar in some rooms. “It’s quite a perk,” says Foley. Let’s hope the guests in the next room agree. Meanwhile, our feature on conceptual artist Gabriel Orozco brought plaudits from the art world. Olga Viso, director of the highly regarded Walker Art Center in Minneapolis, writes that she was “heartened to ﬁnd Aaron Gell’s well-written proﬁle of artist Gabriel Orozco [‘Crazy Tourist,’ December 2009] in the pages of Hemispheres. How great to have an in-depth piece on a conceptual artist reach a wider audience. Kudos to you and your staff for featuring this artist, whose work is both challenging and elusive. Mr. Gell thoughtfully captured Orozco’s ability to see everyday objects in a new way.” 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201

YUI NATSUYAGI The photographer of this month’s Hero (“Instruments of Change,” page 33) is at work on a project detailing her culture shock on moving back to Japan after 20 years in the U.S. “After being away for such a long time,” the Pufﬁn Grant recipient says, “I am looking at everything through my ‘foreign’ eyes, fascinated and shocked.”

ALAN LIGHT The former editor in chief of Vibe and Spin magazines is currently the director of programming for Live from the Artists Den, a public television concert series. While Light is a huge fan of crooner Wainwright,Rufuswhom he proﬁles on page 46, he says, “my favorite song is whatever my sevenyear-old son is playing on his guitar.”

Proﬁling inventor Dean Kamen (“The Creator,” page 76), Gray says, inspired him to try to invent “a robot child who would love me unconditionally.”

A contributor to Details, New York and Newsweek, Gray relaxes by playing music with friends. “My ultimate vacation is a recording studio in Brooklyn where I go to make believe I still rock.”

MAY 2010 | UNITED.COM comments EDITOR IN CHIEF Aaron Gell EXECUTIVE EDITOR Mike Guy SENIOR EDITORS Adam K. Raymond, Layla Schlack ART DIRECTOR Rob Hewitt DESIGNER Ellie Clayman PHOTO EDITOR Erin Giunta CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Jane Black, Jason Gay, Alyssa Giacobbe Sarah Horne, Edward Lewine, Grant Stoddard, Matthew Thompson CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS Claire Benoist, Spencer Heyfron, John Lawton, Graham Roumieu EDITORIAL INTERNS Carren Jao, Calvin Men PHOTO INTERN Winston Woo EXECUTIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR Michael Keating U.S. EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Orion Ray-Jones INK PUBLISHING, 68 Jay Street, Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 TEL: +1 347-294-1220 FAX: +1 Hemispheres.ed@ink-publishing.com917-591-6247 hemispheresmagazine.com WEBMASTER Salah Lababidi ADVERTISING U.S. GROUP PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Steve Andrews SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGERS Ari Kasimov, Catherine Hanson, Christa Abdou, Cynthia Carns, Danny Litton, David Levy, David Low, Jorge Abadia REGIONAL REPRESENTATIVE HAWAII Robert Wiegand TEL: +1 808-587-8300 INTERNATIONAL REPRESENTATIVES CHINA/JAPAN TEL:JOSEPHINE.HO@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+85235419890 SOUTHEAST ASIA TEL:SHAZEEN.MOLEDINA@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+6563022465 EUROPE TEL:MARK.DUKE@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+442076138796 MIDDLE EAST TEL:ANTHONY.AZOURY@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+442076138798 LATIN AMERICA PRODUCTIONTEL:ALEJANDRO.SALAS@INK-PUBLISHING.COM+528150307415MANAGER Joe Massey TEL: +1 PRODUCTION678-553-8091CONTROLLER Grace Rivera Ink Publishing (sales), Capital Building, 255 East Paces Ferry Road, Suite 400, Atlanta, GA 30305 TEL: +1 888-864-1733 FAX: +1 917-591-6247 INK PUBLISHING CEO Jeffrey O’Rourke COO Hugh Godsal PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Simon Leslie HEMISPHERES is produced monthly by Ink Publishing. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions expressed in Hemispheres are not necessarily those of the Publisher or United Airlines, and United Airlines does not accept any responsibility for advertising content. Neither United, its subsidiaries nor afﬁliates guarantees the accuracy, completeness or timeliness of, or otherwise endorses these facts, views, opinions or recommendations, gives investment advice, or advocates the purchase or sale of any security or investment. You should always seek the assistance of a professional for tax and investment advice. Any images are supplied at the owner’s risk. Any mention of United Airlines or the use of United Airlines logo by any advertiser in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company or its products or services by United Airlines. HEMISPHERES

Joanne Calabrese, middle, talks to airport

Airport.InternationalSancollaboratedepartmentswaysaboutAgnesrepresentativecustomerAdams,supervisoroperationsO’Morrisleft,andserviceUmali-FelinefﬁcientforindividualtoatFrancisco SERVICESCREATIVEAIRLINESUNITEDBYPHOTOGRAPHS

Calabrese, born and raised in Manhattan and currently residing in Chicago’s northwest suburbs, knows a thing or two about the day-to-day jobs of those she works with. Her career with United began in 1969 as a reservations clerk, and over 40-plus years she’s served in departments ranging from customer service to baggage and onboard services. And now, as the executive responsible for United’s hubs in San Francisco, Los Angeles, Denver and Washington Dulles, as well as 10 surrounding airports, Calabrese puts that on-theground experience to good use as she searches for ways departments can improve efficiency and performance.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY 2010

IT TAKES A TEAM EFFORT to improve an airline’s performance. And United’s people from across many departments—from ﬂight crews and ramp workers to maintenance personnel and gate agents—can all share credit for United’s ongoing success in the area of on-time arrivals.

“What we continually ask ourselves is, what do we have to do to collectively get this ﬂight out safely and on time?” she explains. “It’s really about setting up teams so we can get to the root cause of any issues and work together to improve the customer’s experience,” she says. A big part of the effort has been focused on common work practices.

Along with some of her peers, she’s helping develop ways United’s various operating groups can work toward a common goal: successful departures.

At United’s hub at Los Angeles International Airport (LAX), everyone—from managers and supervisors to front-line folks— charted out the 1,500 or so different activities involved in a typical

AFTER 40 YEARS AT UNITED, JOANNE CALABRESE, VICE PRESIDENT OF AIRPORT OPERATIONS–HUBS, IS ONE OF SHE

“We’re at our best when we all support each other and work together as a team that is focused on the best interests of our customers as well as one another,” she says.

MANY IMPROVING THE AIRLINE’S PERFORMANCE THE BEST WAY

KNOWS HOW: BY EXAMPLE. // BY ROD O’CONNOR True voicesMentor

According to Joanne Calabrese, vice president of Airport Operations–Hubs, this success is a testament to several programs the company has put in place over the past few years to encourage each person to bear in mind how his or her own job relates to those of coworkers and contributes to the operation of the airline as a whole.

While such improvements have certainly contributed to United’s performance gains, fundamental changes at its hubs have also had an enormous impact. Beginning last year, a new system was put in place that gives both “upstairs and downstairs” responsibilities to all managers. That means the concourse manager is charged not only with planeside ramp activities, but also customer service at the gate; and the terminal manager oversees customer service in the check-in area and baggage service, including the ramp bag room.

It’s a role Calabrese relishes, and is uniquely qualiﬁed to perform. Because after 40 years experience working her way up the corporate ladder—at a time when female executives were not very common in many industries—she understands how to empower people to do their best work.

“What is new is focusing on how one’s individual work impacts other groups involved in getting our planes and customers out safely and on time.”

“Whether our people are guiding an airplane or loading a bag, we have to remember this each and every day.”

In addition to providing the proper training, United also believes in the importance of showing appreciation for a job well done. At no time is this more important than the summer traveling season in the northern hemisphere. Just as the company does during all high-volume periods, Calabrese and other company leaders will meet with people on the concourses to thank them and sometimes to provide snacks or beverages during long, hot, busy days.

Additional training was provided to get everyone up to speed on their new roles—to ensure a smooth departure, yes, but also to keep people safe. In the airline industry, safety is always of utmost concern. But all of the activity that goes on around an aircraft during a standard takeoff and landing—for example, the lifting, pushing and rolling of heavy items— can also present occasions for strains andEachsprains.ramp worker loads an average of 180 bags, totaling almost 5,500 pounds, every single day. To help minimize potential injuries, United launched the MoveSMART program. These training sessions focus on body mechanics principles—some derived from martial arts—to ﬁnd safer, more efficient ways to lift bags or push carts.

“Working safely is always at the top of everyone’s mind,” says Calabrese.

“Standard work has always guided our departures,” notes Calabrese.

“I started out here as a clerk,” Calabrese says. “So when I go into the ﬁeld, I get it. I’ve been there, done that, got all the T-shirts,” she adds with a laugh. “I understand what our people go through. And I tell this to folks throughout the organization: ‘You can be anything you want to be. If you want a leadership role, it’s open to you.’

“That experience has helped me tremendously in relating to our teams and understanding what we’re all trying to accomplish. When we have a successful ﬂight, I know what it takes to make that happen.”

For senior executives like Calabrese, meeting with those she works with also offers opportunities for mentorship. During her ongoing visits to United hubs and their surrounding metro airports, she sits down with each respective general manager and division head to track performance across multiple criteria. But she’s always on the lookout for ways to foster leadership among all employees.

“Standard work has always guided our departures,” notes Joanne Calabrese. “What is new is focusing on how one’s individual work impacts other groups involved in getting customers out safely and on time.” voices Joanne Calabrese leads a discussion on how everyone at United contributes to running a safe, on-time operation.

“It’s a whole new way of doing business for us,” Calabrese says. “Looking at our performance to date, I think this new approach is the best thing we’ve ever done.”

12 MAY 2010 | UNITED.COM departure, everything from loading bags, mail and freight to boarding customers to maintenance checks. After mapping out a more efficient way for individual departments to collaborate, the team also developed an issue resolution protocol to give every person a way to talk through any challenges related to their jobs.

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IF THERE’S AN IPHONE, BlackBerry or any other mobile device with internet access sitting in your carry-on bag right now, we have just the thing to ease your travel experience. Whether you’re rushing to the airport from a conference or debating what to pack for your vacation, we understand you’re constantly on the go. So to keep you from needing to slow down to print a boarding pass, we have launched mobile check-in for all domestic United- and United Express–operated itineraries, giving you the ability to check in for flights from any device that is web-enabled. This includes cell phones, personal digital assistants, e-book readers and tablets. In addition to checking in, you can view flight status, check flight availability and find Red Carpet Club locations. We have also launched “paperless” mobile boarding capabilities at more than a dozen airports and expect to have the service in 30 airports by this summer. You can have your boarding pass sent directly to your mobile device via email, enabling you to breeze through the security checkpoint and the boarding gate with only your mobile device in hand. We know that being on the go can be stressful and hope these enhancements make your travel experience more enjoyable.

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Fascinating historical heritage, rich culture, unique wildlife and tropical beaches: If any of these attractions sound appealing to you, United has a perfect new destination—in Africa. Beginning June 20, United will fly our firstever, once-daily service between Washington, D.C., and Ghana’s capital city, Accra. With this service, United now proudly offers nonstop service to six continents.Flightsto and from Accra are conveniently timed to make flight connections to more than 70 cities in North America through our main transatlantic gateway, Washington Dulles. As the largest airline in the nation’s capital, United offers nearly 300 daily flights from Washington Dulles. Whether your trip to Africa involves safaris, sunbathing or business meetings, we’re delighted that we are now serving this destination that is quickly growing in popularity. NOW SERVING SIX CONTINENTS

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To use mobile check-in, please visit our new mobile web site: mobile.united.com.

MAY 2010 | UNITED.COM 14 connections

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MONTEFRÍO, SPAIN // PHOTOGRAPH BY DAVID CICCONI CASTLE ON A CLOUD // A Moorish ruin overlooks a village in Granada.

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“It’s unusual, but it’s not the first time we’ve seen it rain fish,” says Mark Kersemakers, senior meteorologist at the Darwin Regional Forecasting Center. “We think that a waterspout or weak tornado sucks the fish up into the atmosphere and carries them into the tops of the clouds, basically freezing them in the process. The clouds drift south and dump the fish a long way from where the weather system originated.”

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY 2010

“We’ve also had reports of little frogs being rained out during storms, which is even more strange,” he says. But the most bizarre incident of creatures raining from the heavens is a tossup: either an 1871 hailstorm in Bath, England, that brought a downpour of jellyﬁsh or another in Jennings, Louisiana, in 2007, that rained tangles of worms. All of which might lead the 650 or so residents of Lajumanu to count their blessings: At least it’s not raining sharks.

THE RED DIRT ROAD that leads into Lajamanu is usually traveled by Warlpiri Aboriginal villagers and the wild horses that roam the nearby grasslands. Located on the edge of the Tanami Desert in Australia’s Northern Territory, this arid outback town is more than 500 miles from the coast. Which made it all the more bewildering one afternoon in late February, when a heavy rainstorm opened up over Lajamanu and amid the raindrops came...thousands of tiny fish. Mostly young speckled perch—some frozen solid, others, remarkably, wriggling—they landed like heavy hail on porches and playing fields in bursts for two straight days. For weeks afterward, residents raked fish into garbage bags.

Instances of ﬁsh rain have been reported over the years throughout northern Australia and also in Japan, Singapore and Rhode Island. Lajamanu alone has seen it happen three times in the past 30 years. According to Kersemakers, ﬁsh aren’t the half of it.

CHRISTINA COUCH

Cloudy with a Chance of Fish LAJAMANU, AUSTRALIA SPRING STORMS RAIN PERCH ON THE DUSTY OUTBACK. ILLUSTRATIONS BY GRAHAM ROUMIEU 19 NOTES FROM ALL OVER dispatches

The Tokyo Girls Collection, a biannual fashion show now in its fifth year, has attracted 25,500 spectators, most of them teens and young women. Some have traveled for hours by train or overnight bus, despite the fact that there isn’t a single big-name designer represented. The outfits on display can generally be purchased for less than $250, and fun trumps pretense. As Cole Porter blares from the loudspeakers, the models blow kisses, dance and toss stuffed animals from the runway—a far cry from haute couture. Tickets for the eight-hour extravaganza, ranging from $55 to $80, sold out in hours. Recently, the Tokyo Girls Collection went on the road to Beijing and Paris. “But it’s the opposite of the Paris runway show,” says Fumitaro Ohama, head of the organizing committee, who also runs the fashion site Girlswalker.com. Around the venue, staffers carry gadgets that can transfer web links to a cell phone just by touching it, enabling attendees to purchase the items they’re viewing before the models have even left the stage. Within a day of the show last September, online sales of clothes and other items topped $600,000. But Ohama sees the event less as a fashion show than as a festival. The crowd screams when Japanese pop stars Miliyah Kato and Kumi Koda appear, and whoop for a model in a skimpy version of a flight attendant’s uniform, actually a paid ad for a travel agency. At booths near the entrance, reps hand out samples of gum, perfume and mascara, as well as cellphone straps with pink teddy bears covered in crystals. “The economy is still hurting,” says Ohama, “so why not try to brighten things up with a little fun?”

For this effort, Della Vecchia took as his inspiration the famous St. Mark’s Campanile in Venice, which he wanted to duplicate in miniature. He then transported 10 tons of pure white chocolate all the way from Ecuador. The liquid was poured into a specially built mold 26 feet high and allowed to chill until it was solid. Then Della Vecchia and his team went to work, carving struts and windows to match the original, as shavings drifted to the ground. (Sadly for some, after the exposition, and lengthy exposure to the elements, it won’t be very appetizing.)DellaVecchia has struck here before. If you stroll over to city hall, you’ll ﬁnd his replica of the famous “Three Peaks” of the local Dolomite Mountains, the tops dusted with what appears to be sugar. It’s officially the heaviest cocoa-based sculpture ever created. And it’s kept locked behind thick glass.

—STEPHAN TALTY

If there is a mecca for extreme chocolate, on this serene day in March it’s the tiny Italian town of Auronzo di Cadore. That’s because practically overnight, a 26-foot tower made entirely of chocolate has appeared near the town ice rink, as if the Oompa Loompas had staged anIceinvasion.skaters gaze at it as they arrive for their morning spin in the cold mountain air. Tourists gawk and snap pictures of the tower’s intricately carved exterior. The representative of the Guinness Book of World Records has come and gone, leaving a certiﬁcate conﬁrming this is officially the highest freestanding structure made entirely of chocolate. Ever. The sugar castle was built by Mirco Della Vecchia, a master chocolatier famous for his world records in cacao. “I started working as a confectioner at thirteen,” says the chocolatemustachioedmastermind. “I knew immediately this would be my future.”

Inside an arena in Yokohama, the fashionistas are screaming for Nozomi Sasaki. A spotlight has just fallen on the doe-eyed Japanese model, who appears in a loose crochet shirt and cutoff denim shorts. Sasaki walks the runway, waving as techno music throbs. “Kawaii!” (“Cute!”) squeals 23-year-old Sae Hosaka, who is standing with a friend near the raised platform.

20 MAY 2010 | UNITED.COM dispatches

KENJI HALL East Meets Vest YOKOHAMA, JAPAN AURONZO DI CADORE, ITALY SUGAR HIGH

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The most recent hiatus came after an accident in 2001, after which a group of dedicated preservationists raised $3.5 million for the renovation.

FUTURE FOODS Homaro Cantu takes careful aim and fires, hitting his target squarely. Then Ben Roche follows up with a flamethrower. Finally, they administer the coup de grace—with a knife and fork. For Cantu and Roche, the chefs behind Chicago’s molecular gastronomy restaurant Moto firing a red pepper oil–filled paintball into a few innocent bratwursts and cooking them with a blowtorch is all in a day’s“Wework.want to push the boundaries of what you can and cannot eat,” Cantu explains. “We’re trying to see if you can turn something inedible like a burned brat into something tasty.” Challenging preconceptionsculinaryiswhat

22 MAY 2010 | UNITED.COM

“People aren’t going to change unless you give them something tastier. That’s where we come in.”

Now he’s focusing on an even bigger project: a new television series on Planet Green that will demonstrate how the foods of tomorrow, such as edible packaging peanuts and the so-called “miracle fruit,” a berry that prevents the taste buds from detecting sour or bitter notes, can solve some of the world’s most pressing environmental, hunger and nutrition

Of course, whether items like faux seafood truly can be more appealing than its counterparttraditionalremains to be seen. And tasted. “They can,” Cantu insists. “You just need a bunch of crazy people to prepare it.”

“It’s as beautiful as I remember it,” says native Angeleno John Wyatt, as he steps inside Olivet, one of two distinctive orange trams (the other is named Sinai). A bell sounds, and electric motors whir. Olivet climbs the 33-degree slope to the top of the hill. Applause erupts.

“The only part of Bunker Hill that remains now is Angels Flight,” says John Welborne, president of the Angels Flight Railway Foundation. Best of all? It costs only 25 cents.

“There was a crowd of us waiting then, too,” Wyatt adds.

“Everythingissues.you see about food is negative, negative, negative. ‘Eat your vegetables; don’t eat red meat; seafood is bad because of overﬁshing,’” Cantu says.

CHRISTINA COUCH

LOS CHICAGOANGELES

“the shortest railway in the world,” is so brief (it clocks in at under a minute) that someone stumbling across the crowd that forms early one spring morning at the bottom of Bunker Hill in downtown Los Angeles might rightly wonder what the big deal is. But these are train buffs, most of them, and they’re here to bear witness to the return of a beloved miniature rail line after nearly a decade-long absence.

dispatchesTherideonAngelsFlight,

Angels Flight ﬁrst opened in 1901, and though the distance covered is only 315 feet, in the line’s ﬁrst 50 years of operations the trams were said to have carried more passengers per mile than any other railway in the world—more than 100,000,000. The original version closed in 1969, when the neighborhood was demolished as part of a citywide replanning. It reopened to grateful passengers in 1996.

Armed with class IV surgical laser, centrifuge, freeze dryer, lab-grade soniﬁer and a Star Trek-like food replicator that prints snacks onto edible paper, he has an undisclosed number of patents under review.

Cantu does best. Part cook, part mad scientist, he fuses haute cuisine with the principals of biochemistry to produce foods like carbonated fruit, laser-baked bread (with crusty insides and doughy outsides) and mayonnaise created using high-pitched sound vibrations.

Angels Flight has been featured in novels by John Fante and Raymond Chandler and was the inspiration for Michael Connelly’s 1999 mystery Angels Flight. It’s also (naturally) been a regular onscreen, from the 1920 silent ﬁlm All Jazzed Up and Dragnet to the video game Tony Hawk’s American Wasteland.

FallenBARLETTAngel

JAMES

Introducing United mobile check-in and boarding pass. Now you can check in on the go, and have your boarding pass sent directly to your phone for select itineraries. Just enter mobile.united.com into your browser to check in for your ﬂight, and to get your mobile boarding pass, complete with instructions on how to use it at the airport. To learn more visit united.com/mobileservices

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More than 200 years ago, Lewis and Clark ﬂoated down the Columbia River. Now, LifeCycle Adventures leads you down the same path—by bike. Known for two-wheeled trips through California’s wine country, the company is expanding its offerings to the Columbia River and Willamette Valley. When you’re snapping photos of Mount Hood or sipping Oregon pinot, you’ll thank those explorers for putting the region on your radar. lifecycleadventures.com

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY 2010 25 WHERE TO STAY / WHAT TO SEE / WHEN TO GOnews PHOTOSREILLY/AURORAJAYBYPHOTOGRAPH directions

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HOUSE,OCEANOFCOURTESYICFF,OFCOURTESYFESTIVAL,FOODREALOFCOURTESYRESORT,CANAPUNTAOFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPHSTOP:FROMCLOCKWISE

DO THE WAVE // What’s more idyllic than a Victorian mansion overlooking the sea? A Victorian mansion overlooking the sea after a $140 million restoration. The Ocean House in Rhode Island kicks off its new look with a designer show house for charity. During the rest of the year, relax in a cottage at one of New England’s classic beach retreats. oceanhouseri.com

CASUAL TEE // The newly opened Corales Golf Course is one of those Caribbean gems challenging enough to force you to put down the mojito, take out the wedge, and execute a tight-lie chip shot. At the Punta Cana Resort on the eastern shores of the Dominican Republic, the Corales has craggy coves and stunning vistas, plus a shot over the Bay of Corales. Of course, the biggest challenge is keeping fresh ice in your drink. puntacana.com

MAIL CALL // Madrid’s Muséo Nacional del Prado is winning over young audiences with “The Art of Power,” an exhibition on display until May 23 featuring armor worn by Spanish monarchs. On loan from the Royal Armoury, these cuirasses, shields and helmets rarely see the light of day. museodelprado.es

NORTHERN HOSPITALITY // Toronto’s booming film industry draws plenty of Hollywood A-listers. Now they’ll feel right at home, as Thompson Hotels opens its first non-U.S. location. Expect modern rooms, a roof deck with poolside cabanas and a fireplace lounge. Guests can stretch out in an on-site yoga studio and dine at Scarpetta, featuring cuisine by James Beard–winning chef Scott Conant. Welcome to the north, Thompson. thompsonhotels.com 7-10 LONDON // At the ecologically inclined Real Food Festival, learn about where your food comes from now and how it will be produced in the future. realfoodfestival.co.uk 7-16 VANCOUVER // Get just the facts, ma’am, at the DOXA Documentary Film Festival. doxafestival.ca 9-10 BRUSSELS // Each year on Iris Day, the Belgian capital is in bloom with a massive street party, complete with free concerts. fetedeliris.be 15-18 NEW YORK // Grab a seat—or a table, armoire or desk—at the 22nd annual ContemporaryInternationalFurnitureFair. icff.com

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MERLIN’S BEARD! //

Chicago’s Randolph Street Market kicks off its seventh season this month. It consists of the Chicago Antique, Fancy Foods and Indie Designer emporia, plus the Vinyl Swap Meet and Global Goods Bazaar. To start the season, the antique market will offer a free appraisal, so bring a tchotchke and cash it in for new duds or a gourmet snack. randolphstreetmarket.com

news SPOTLIGHTHOTEL IMAGES,ISZA/AFP/GETTYFERENCBYFESTIVAL,WINENANTUCKETOFCOURTESY2010,SARGENTOFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPHSTOP:FROMCLOCKWISE RESORT.ORLANDOUNIVERSALOFCOURTESYRADJA,NICOLEOFCOURTESY

A TOUCH OF CLASS // The Glenmere Mansion picks up where the country manors of old money Vanderbilts and Rockefellers left off. The former weekend home of a turn-of-the-century New York socialite, this classic 18-suite playpen— recently featured in Architectural Digest—has been lovingly rebuilt and impeccably decorated with statuary hailing from Spain and China and includes gardens, a spa, a pool and stunning views of the Catskills. Don’t forget your dinner jacket. glenmeremansion.com

16-23 CALIFORNIA // Billed as the American Tour de France, the 750-mile Amgen Tour takes place in phases from Nevada City to Bakersﬁeld. Catch Lance Armstrong pedaling along—that is, if you can. amgentourofcalifornia.com 19-23 NANTUCKET, MASSACHUSETTS // Sip bubbly by the beach at the prestigious Nantucket Wine Festival, which is celebrating the 200th anniversary of Veuve Clicquot’s ﬁrst vintage champagne. nantucketwinefestival.com JUNE 1-27 AMSTERDAM // During the Holland Festival, celebrate music, art, dance and theater with an avant-garde slant at venues around the city. hollandfestival.nl 2-6 BUDAPEST // Hoof it to the National Gallop, a celebration of historic equestrian arts that includes races and battle reenactments. vagta.hu

Quidditch, anyone? Take the family to Universal Orlando’s new feature, “The Wizarding World of Harry Potter.” To celebrate its opening, the park’s resorts are offering a deal even Muggles will appreciate: four nights’ stay at Loews Portoﬁno Bay, Hard Rock Hotel or Loews Royal Paciﬁc; three days’ admission to Universal Studios and Island of Adventure; an express pass; and, of course, early access to the Harry Potter attraction. The deal starts May 28 and costs $1,548 for a family of four. universalorlando.com REPORT

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Before you go back downtown, duck into Velouria (1521 Melrose Ave.; shopvelouria.tripod.com), a boutique featuring products by local artisans, to pick up the crème de la crème of rain gear: the ever-youthful and design-happy Pare*Umbrella. You know, just in case. ( 3:00 )

The wait is long, but the view from the 605-foot Space Needle (400 Broad St., spaceneedle.com) is well worth it. The 360-degree vista showcases the Olympic Mountains, Cascade Range and the Puget Sound—all of which deserve further exploration. ( 5:00 )

Head east to Capitol Hill, home to young professionals, creative types and the recently relocated Elliott Bay Book Company (1521 10th Ave.; elliottbaybook.com), a massive indie bookstore. Pick up former local Jon Krakauer’s Into Thin Air and weigh the risks of summiting Mount Rainier over a pint of Trappist ale at Quinn’s Pub (1001 E. Pike St.; quinnspubseattle.com). ( 2:40 )

Pay tribute to Seattle music gods at the interactive Frank Gehry–designed Experience Music Project (325 5th Ave. N; empsfm.org). Read Jimi Hendrix’s journal, bend notes with a wah-wah pedal and take in the rock-heavy Northwest Passage exhibit, where grunge lives on. Pause for a Vulcan salute to the attached Science Fiction Museum—there’s only so much time. ( 4:20 )

BOARDING PASS Sit back, relax and enjoy a freshly brewed cup of Starbucks coffee as you ﬂy United to the birthplace of the famous coffee shop.

Come as you are to The Showbox at the Market (1426 First Ave.; showboxonline.com). Time it right and you’ll be able to catch an opening band at the popular 71-year-old Art Deco venue, which has hosted musicians such as Dizzy Gillespie, Muddy Waters, Iggy Pop and Pearl Jam. ( 1:10 )

Cut through Lower Post Alley and past its famous gum-covered wall to arrive at Pike Place Market. Dodge the flying salmon (the fishmongers here are known for their airborne seafood), and buy yourself some smoked filets. Let the street buskers serenade you while you wash down the lox with a venti, nonfat, triple-pump caramel macchiato (just like Mom used to make!) from the original Starbucks (1912 Pike Pl.; starbucks.com). ( 1:55 )

Hungry? Stop into chef Tom Douglas’ James Beard–nominated Palace Kitchen (2030 Fifth Ave.; tomdouglas.com) for his melted, creamy (and dreamy) goat cheese and lavender fondue, or track down the Skillet Airstream trailer for truckside dining on seasonal local fare. Now, too full to walk, you’d best let the Seattle monorail do the moving for you. ( 3:40 )

Kick things off in Pioneer Square (pioneersquaredistrict.org), a historic district that was rebuilt after the Great Fire of 1889 and is now colonized by artists. Nod and murmur to yourself knowingly as you pop into a few of the local art galleries. Newly purchased prints in hand, hitch a ride north on any of the free buses (until 7 p.m.). ( :40 )

We’re advancing the treatments in gynecology. Along with the confidence of the women who need them. Gynecology is a complex specialty. And that’s just how we treat it. As the largest National Institutes of Health funded obstetrics and gynecological department in the nation, Magee-Womens Hospital of UPMC is at the forefront of research in reproductive infectious disease, family planning, and fertility. Our scientists and doctors were part of the team that developed the HPV vaccine, a breakthrough in the prevention and treatment of cervical cancer. And we are one of the few hospitals in the country that utilizes intraperitoneal hyperthermic chemotherapy (IPHC) to treat ovarian cancer. Our forward thinking has made us a national leader in family planning, and we are proud to say that our extensive fellowships include urogynecology, minimally invasive surgery, and lower genital tract disease. Gynecological conditions affect women at all the stages of their lives. Our commitment is to ensure that the quality of their lives is all that it can be.Affiliated with the University of Pittsburgh School of Medicine, UPMC is ranked among the nation’s best hospitals by U.S.News & World Report. UPMC.com | 1-800-533-UPMC

Women’s health is more than a science. It’s also a profoundly personal issue. At Yale-New Haven Hospital, we offer today’s most advanced medical treatments along with the specialists who pioneered them in an environment that’s as compassionate as it is state-of-the-art. Our ob-gyn physicians and scientists invented fetal heart monitoring and pioneered fetal echocardiography as well as introduced the ﬁrst in vitro fertilization program in the Northeast. They also introduced key chemotherapy drugs in the ﬁght against gynecological cancers. They’re the reason we are considered a national leader in the advancement of clinical research and treatment.

We do more than practice gynecology and obstetrics. We advance it.

Yale-New Haven Hospital is the primary teaching hospital of Yale School of Medicine and is ranked among the nation’s best hospitals by U.S.News & World Report

NAME • YOSHIO TOYAMA, 66 MISSION • Donating musical instruments to schools and aid groups in New Orleans through Wonderful World Jazz Foundation, an organization founded by Toyama and his wife, Keiko. At age 14, Toyama started playing trumpet and fell in love with Louis Armstrong’s music, which inspired him to delve deeper into the culture of Armstrong’s hometown. “It was a shock to learn that schools in the birthplace of jazz had very poor musical instruments,” Toyama says. “I was deeply moved to read in Armstrong’s autobiography that he came from the poorest slum. He was sent to a boys home, where he learned to play music. It changed his life.”

FAVORITE SONGS • “What a Wonderful World” and “When the Saints Go Marchin’ In.” hero

YOSHIO TOYAMA HELPS KIDS IN NEW ORLEANS TOOT THEIR OWN HORNS. BY SHARON MCDONNELL PHOTOGRAPH BY YUI NATSUYAGI

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MOTIVATION • “We want to remind people of Armstrong’s life and spread his music, love and spirit,” Toyama says. “After World War II, the U.S. helped Japanese people with the kindest of hearts. So this is also a big thanks from Japanese fans to New Orleans for giving the world such a wonderful present called jazz.”

Sit back. Relax. And enjoy triple miles. Visit united.com/hem or call 800-298-6873 to apply or learn more about our new family of cards. Offer Code: CQCP Accounts subject to credit approval. Restrictions and limitations apply. Annual credit card fee applies. United Mileage Plus Visa credit cards are issued by Chase Bank USA, N.A. See www.united.com/hem for pricing and rewards details. Print Date: 12/09 PH_31803 Introducing the Mileage Plus ® Select Visa ®. The only card that offers you triple miles on United purchases— and a whole lot more.

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There are only two foods meant to be cooked over a campfire, and no one wants marshmallows or hot dogs after a long day on the trail. Fortunately, there’s Jetboil’s Helios cooking system, which can easily whip up a quick risotto or a plate of chicken fajitas. And forget about rubbing sticks together, the Helios has a one-button ignition system to light butane fuel that will start a fire faster than you can say “merit badge.” Finally, and most importantly, it weighs less than two pounds and fits snugly into your pack. Try doing that with a campfire.

36 MAY 2010 | UNITED.COM goods 1. LEADER OF THE PACK Columbia’s superlight Mobex pack has a unique flexible frame that assures minimal cargo movement and maximum support. Your back will thank you. / $100 / columbia.com 2. EYE CANDY Julbo’s Spirit sunglasses boast polarizing, photochromic lenses with a host of coatings that make sure everything looks good, yourself included. / $190 / julbousa.com 3. BRIGHT IDEA With its 70-lumen LEDs, Princeton Tec’s Remix headlamp will ensure you can always see where you’re going, even if you don’t know where you’re going. / $45 / backcountry.com 4. JACKET OF ALL TRADES The ultralight Storm Logic jacket from ExOfficio will keep you warm, dry and, when converted into a neck pillow, comfy. / $150 / exofficio.com 5. IN GOOD TIME Hiding behind the Wenger Nomad’s traditional analog face is a digital readout and LED compass. Sneaky. / $375 / wengerna.com 3 4 5 2 1

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IN THE MOBILE GENERATION’S coming of age, the ringtone was an early expression of self. A little dose of “Heya!” hinted at the buttoned-up businesswoman’s wild side. It was an easy icebreaker, a means of reinvention and, as the music industry will fondly recall, nearly a billion-dollar business. For a while, ringtones were charming. But as technology advanced and the market grew, so did the opportunity forwhenoverkill—especiallyone’scell,leftin a coat pocket, wound up serenading the office with the latest Black Eyed Peas megahit. In 2008, ringtone sales were down 24 percent from the previous year, when Americans shelled out $714 million for their phones to ring out the jams. Can the ringtone be saved? Vringo, a New York–based start-up, is banking on it. Its plan is to bring social media, video and more targeted personalization to the business, which once made up 80 percent of the mobile phone music market. The killer innovation? Instead of downloading ringtones to your own phone, Vringo’s software allows you to choose the ring that will play on the phones you call. Better yet, you can send video as well—be it a clip downloaded from the internet or one you recorded yourself. There’s just one catch: Both phones must have the program installed. Founded in 2006, Vringo hopes to become the Facebook or Twitter of ringtones by bringing the everpopular social networking aspects of those sites to cell phones. “The ringtone died because no one was showing consumers what to do with it,” says Ross Neumann, Vringo’s content manager. “We make it possible to update your friends on how you’re feeling and give your call context. Are you happy? Sad? Just broken up with? It enriches the experience.”

And it allows you to better screen your calls. Has your ex changed his or her Vringo ringtone to “Baby Come Back”? Better let that go to voicemail.

ALYSSA GIACOBBE still thinks her Guns N’ Roses ringtone is charming. sales still brought in more than half billion the world’s

dollars from

ﬁve largest markets. USA $300 m$200 m$100 m FRANCEJAPANUKSOUTHKOREA RINGTONE REVENUE SOURCE: MUSICALLY/IFPI

were down in 2008, but they

Vringo is currently seeking partnerships with mobile carriers to offer the service through calling plans and already has several deals in place in the Middle East and Asia. Earlier this year it began the process of ﬁling for an initial public offering, with hopes of raising up to $13.8 million.

WITH THE HELP OF VIDEO AND SOCIAL NETWORKING FEATURES, A NEW COMPANY HOPES TO REVIVE THE RINGTONE. BY ALYSSA GIACOBBE // ILLUSTRATION BY QUICKHONEY Put a Ring on It tech MAY 2010 | UNITED.COM OFLORDSTHERING Ringtone

For now, the revenues are miniscule (just $36,000 in 2008 and 2009), and Vringo’s success is anything but certain. Still, Neumann, whose friends hear Black Sabbath’s “Iron Man” when he calls, is not deterred. “People don’t use their phones to communicate their personalities,” he says. “We’re hoping to bring back that connection.”

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THE 2010 PORSCHE PANAMERA TURBO ISN’T JUST A STUNNING NEW HIGH-PERFORMANCE FOUR-DOOR—IT’S A SLEEK, RIP-SNORTING CHALLENGE TO THE VERY CONCEPT OF THE LUXURY SEDAN. // BY MIKE GUY Larger than Life wheels The Turbo’s top speed is said to be 188 mph. We advise against testing that data. Massive 14.2–inch disc brakes improve on legendaryPorsche’sstop-pingpower. The spoiler sits ﬂush with the body until 56 mph, when it automatically.extends At more than 16 feet long, it’s got three inches on the MercedescomparableCLS63.

1 2 3 4 3 2 4 1

IT IS SAID THAT when the first European explorers came over the horizon in the Caribbean, the geometry of masts and sails and the sheer bulk of the approaching wooden hulls were so alien to the eyes of the native population that many of them simply couldn’t process what they were seeing. That’s how I feel when I first encounter the 2010 Porsche Panamera Turbo in a garage full of equally luxurious cars. With its classic spoon-front grille and super-low profile, the Panamera is unmistakably a Porsche, but at first glance, there’s just too much of it. That’s because it’s a sedan, an unheard-of configuration for an automaker famous for making racy little coupes. When I step inside and see the perfectly arrayed cockpit, I’m comforted. More so when, on the narrow strip of highway between Jacksonville and Daytona Beach, Florida, I get to take her out for a spin. Driven properly, a Porsche should be an intense experience. The Panamera Turbo comes equipped with a turbocharged 4.8-liter V-8 engine that grinds out 500 horsepower, a seven-speed double-clutch transmission with paddle shifters and a multistage active spoiler on the tail that raises automatically as the vehicle speeds up. Outfitted thus, the Panamera goes zero to 60 in under four seconds.

This lithe new European arrival is surprisingly roomy, but like those early Spanish conquistadores, it’s not exactly family-friendly. If you’re looking for a roomy daily driver and money isn’t an issue, this may be a perfect selection. But think twice before putting babyseats in the back.

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THE RENOWNED PHOTOGRAPHER GETS HIS BEST SHOTS IN TOKYO.

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MAY 2010 | UNITED.COM 42

“I also did one of my favorite shoots in Tokyo at the National Museum of Western Art, which I think has the most exquisitely installed objects of art of any museum I’ve ever been to. When I heard the museum was exhibiting the painting by the French artist Delacroix, La Liberté, I delayed my flight out of Tokyo and faxed the Louvre for permission to shoot it—it’s their painting. It turned out to be well worth the trouble. The gallery was filled up like a movie theater for this one painting, and the photo was like a film still from a dream.” Struth’s work is on display at New York’s Marian Goodman Gallery from May 5 to June 19.

The Places I Go: Thomas Struth

“Many cities are my favorites for different reasons, but Tokyo is at the top of the list. I ﬁnd it extraordinary how behind the front row of skyscrapers and ofﬁce buildings, you make two turns and feel like you’re in a very small Japanese village. I’ve actually been there thirteen times since 1986. In terms of food, I love exploring the various small restaurants in Ginza. They don’t have a menu, so you just get the dinner of the evening. To me, not having to choose is the ultimate in luxury.

Call Click verizonwireless.com/goglobal Visit your local Verizon Wireless store Coverage in South Africa. And 220 other countries. The world is calling. Answer it. With Verizon Wireless, you can make calls in more than 220 countries. Plus, with more data coverage than ever before, you can text, email and browse the world wide web—around the whole wide world. So before you travel the globe, for business or pleasure, switch to Verizon Wireless, America’s Largest Wireless Network. Activation fee/line: $35. IMPORTANT CONSUMER INFORMATION: Subject to Customer Agmt, Calling Plan, rebate form and credit approval. Up to $350 early termination fee/line, and other charges. Offers and coverage, varying by service, not available everywhere. Rebate takes up to 6 weeks & expires in 12 months. Limited time offer. While supplies last. Shipping charges may apply. See verizonwireless.com for details. ©2010 Verizon. $9999 $199.99 2-yr. price -$100 mail-in rebate debit card. BlackBerry® Tour™

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Introducing daily nonstops to Brussels from Chicago O’Hare. Starting March 28, 2010, United will begin nonstop service from Chicago to Brussels, Belgium: the capital of the European Union, and a hub of international banking and fi nance. The 767s fl ying this route will feature our new fi rst and business class cabins, with true 180° fl at bed seats, personal entertainment centers, and more. For information, visit united.com/brussels .

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THE DISTRICT THAT SPAWNED MOD FASHION CELEBRATES ITS GOLDEN ANNIVERSARY. BY CHRISTINE H. O’TOOLE s , 50 thi th hemline Carna At the ’60s, f swarming the narrow lanes offRegent Stre storefr bo fashion mavens drawn to them was Zandra th boutique. Using Rhodes’ brilliantly patter skir fas l Uni stars and and hats—both sides a higgledy-piggledy mix.” Rockers took no W Valet showed up inﬂu Sgt. Pepper’s Cl a role in the And while the music have ch hom GO // C HRI STINE O’ TOO

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY 2010 45culture

ART & COMMERCEstyle

t y l e

Nifty Fifty

HEMI S PHERE S M A

CARNABY STREET, the trendy London district that helped popularize the miniskirt, is turning 50 this year. But don’t expect a neighborhood made famous by the Rolling Stones and the Sex Pistols to let down its hemlines. With free concerts scheduled for June 5 and 6, Carnaby Street rocks on. At the beginning of the Swinging ’60s, fashionistas started swarming the narrow lanes off Regent Street, London’s grand shopping boulevard. The Georgian storefronts on these little roads housed increasingly edgy designer boutiques. One of the fashion mavens drawn to them was Zandra Rhodes, who started her couture career as a textile designer at the tiny Foale & Tuffin boutique. Using Rhodes’ brilliantly patterned fabrics, Marion Foale and Sally Tuffin helped put tiny skirts, colored tights and the now-infamous pantsuit on the fashion map. The inspiration for the Carnaby Street look? Pop Art, says Rhodes. “It was Andy Warhol and the Union Jack and the U.S. stars and stripes and top hats—both sides of the Atlantic in a higgledy-piggledy mix.” Rockers took notice. The vintage military jackets from a boutique called I Was Lord Kitchener’s Valet showed up on Jimi Hendrix and inﬂuenced the cover of The Beatles’ Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band. The district also played a role in the emergence of punk, funk and hip-hop. And while the music may have changed, you can bet today’s fashionistas still stop in to pay homage to shops such as The Great Frog and Lambretta.

RELEASES A PARED-DOWN RECORD. // BY ALAN LIGHT Keeping It Simple sound MAY 2010 | UNITED.COM

AFTER A TOUGH YEAR—WHICH INCLUDED THE DEATH OF HIS MOTHER, A FOLKSINGING LEGEND—RUFUS WAINRIGHT

ALSO THIS MONTH

What else to listen to on the go in May COURT HOUNDSYARD Court Yard Hounds Sisters therespectively,guitarist-banjoist,theEmilyMaguireMartieandRobison,ﬁddlerandofDixieChicks, formed this country-fried outﬁt after Natalie Maines went on hiatus. The result blends the DC’s winsome porridge of plucky folk and serious Nashville chops—minus the political sloganeering.

sister Martha, an acclaimed singer-songwriter herself, recently got married and had a baby, inspiring “Martha,” a sober reflection on siblings watching their parents age. “It’s eerie that I finally wrote a song about my sister, and it’s coming out when we really need each other the most,” Wainwright says. “But the album was actually finished before my mother died. She got to hear a lot of it, and I believe that now her spirit is out in the ether and can help ferry these songs along.”

The former editor in chief of Spin and Vibe, ALAN LIGHT is often lost in a valley of simplicity.

(TOP)WESTENBERGKEVINBYPHOTOGRAPH

SINCE THE RELEASE of his last album, in 2007, Rufus Wainwright has written and staged an opera, recreated Judy Garland’s legendary 1961 concert at Carnegie Hall and faced the death of his mother, folksinger Kate McGarrigle. So perhaps it’s no surprise that when it came time to record his latest effort, All Days Are Nights: Songs for Lulu, he wanted to keep things simple. “I was really in need of solitude, in order to process all the different relationships that were inundating me,” he says of the choice to record with only piano accompanying his celebratedWainwright’stenor.ﬁve previous albums have been characterized by complex compositions and ornate arrangements. But the 36-year-old learned the power of more stripped-down music from his father, singer-songwriter Loudon Wainwright III. “Also, I’ve always been a little insecure about my piano playing, so this was the chance to corner that beast.”

The title of All Days Are Nights is taken from one of three Shakespeare sonnets that Wainwright sets to music. The album also features the ﬁnal aria from Wainwright’s opera, Prima Donna, which makes its North American debut in June at Toronto’s Luminato Festival. But Wainwright’s affinity for classical forms often yields to other creative impulses. The record opens with “Who Are You New York?” a wistful meditation on the city, and closes with “Zebulon,” a soaring depiction of Wainwright’s teenage romances. “It’s a double-edged album,” he says. “I tried to create a spectrum that listeners can lose themselves in, with peaks of technique and valleys of Wainwright’ssimplicity.”

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WITH BABIES, FILMMAKER

PONIJAO, A JOYFULLY mischievous Namibian infant, sits in the dirt with her older brother, playing with rocks. She reaches for a bottle; her sibling snatches it from her. She bites him. He slaps her. She cries. He turns back to the rocks indifferently.

Senior editor ADAM K. RAYMOND still prefers his peas mashed.

“I hope it inspires people to learn about different cultures,” Thomas Balmes says. “It might make some of them want kids, too.”

It’s the kind of adorable moment that might rack up millions of views on YouTube. But this isn’t a Handycam clip, it’s the opening scene of Babies, a documentary full of crawling, cooing and, yes, even some crying. “I hope it inspires viewers to learn about different cultures,” says the ﬁlm’s director, Thomas Balmes.

Out this month from Focus Features, Babies documents a year in the life of four infants—one each in Namibia, Mongolia, Tokyo and San Francisco—from birth through the torments of teething to their ﬁrst unsteady steps. Nearly 80 minutes long and virtually dialogue-free, Babies is one of Balmes’ stark observational documentaries, which also include examinations of mad cow disease and tribes in Papua New Guinea. Embedded with his subjects, whom he cast while they were still in the womb, Balmes blends into the background and keeps his camera rolling as “reality offers these amazing moments.”

In Babies those moments are plentiful—from the sight of Mongolian tot Bayar sitting in a tub of water as a goat saunters up for a drink, to American baby Hattie discovering the edible part of a banana. Such scenes are presented without narration, which is one of the film’s great strengths. “I don’t like to take the viewer by the hand,” says Balmes. But there’s no guidance needed to get the message of Babies, which demonstrates that despite how little these far-flung families seem to have in common, when it comes to our earliest experiences, humans around the world aren’t so different after all. Imparting such lessons is the overarching goal of Babies, which Balmes insists is about more than adorable cheeks and chubby toes. He hopes the film inspires viewers to see the world anew. “Hopefully it will make some of them want to have kids, too,” he says. “It’s one of the most beautiful things in the world.”

48 MAY 2010 | UNITED.COM

THOMAS BALMES LETS AUDIENCES SEE THE WORLD THROUGH FRESH EYES. // BY ADAM K. RAYMOND

It’s a Small World vision

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NOVELIST MARLENE NIEKERK OF COETZEE AARON BY THOMAS ALLEN

JOINS THE RANKS

AARON GELL is editor in chief of Hemispheres

50 MAY 2010 | UNITED.COM print

WHEN WRITER Marlene Van Niekerk was growing up in South Africa’s Overberg region, her father, who worked for the agriculture department, sometimes brought her along on visits to local farms. On one such call, she was struck by the presence of a young African girl who took care of a white family’s children. This was in the mid-1960s, when apartheid was at its height and the races rarely mixed. “I was fascinated by her,” recalls Niekerk, an Afrikaner. The girl, Niekerk discovered, had been adopted, and she occupied an unusual position in the household— not quite daughter and not quite servant, but something in between.

GORDIMER AND

WITH AGAAT, HER UNFLINCHING PORTRAIT OF THE SHIFTING FORCES SHAPING SOUTH AFRICA. BY

Years later, she has become the title character of Niekerk’s extraordinary new novel, Agaat, which no less a critic than Nobel laureate Toni Morrison deemed “as brilliant as it is haunting.” Shifting back and forth in time, the book tells the story of the psychologically charged relationship between Agaat and the Boer farmwife Milla, who plucks her out of extreme poverty, turning her into a surrogate child before exploiting her as a housemaid. Decades later, with apartheid on the wane, an aging Milla develops a progressive neurological disorder and is bedridden, unable to move or speak. In a momentous role reversal, Agaat becomes her nurse, her heir and occasionally her tormentor.

Out of Africa

VAN

In addition to its vivid emotional resonance, Agaat is notable for the wealth of detail it imparts about rural life in South Africa before industrialized farming—everything from four-stage crop rotation to how to counteract tulip poisoning in cattle. “I see it as a way of preserving the language, the farming methods, the folklore—things that are quickly disappearing now,” Niekerk says.

GELL // ILLUSTRATION

The novel has been read as a political allegory, and Niekerk, whose ﬁrst book, Triomf, was a scathing dark comedy about a damaged Afrikaner family, acknowledges that the legacy of apartheid is layered throughout her work. “I’m always interested in looking at how intimate power relationships between people are related to bigger forces such as race, class and gender,” she says. Niekerk adds, however, that Agaat’s uncertain status on the farm also parallels her own feelings of alienation as a progressive and a lesbian growing up in a strict Afrikaner household. A writer’s characters are always brought to life, she explains, “by one’s own psychological energies.” Writing the book was powerful catharsis, recalls the author, who directs the master’s program in creative writing at Stellenbosch University. “I cried the whole time,” she says. “I always try to explore areas that are beyond my comfort zone.”

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BY JAMES A. FRANK

There is nothing more dreadful than the habit of doubt. — SIDDHARTHA GAUTAMA (“THE BUDDHA”), 563-483 BCE

53 CULTURE | MAY 2010

// ILLUSTRATION BY BARRY BLITT Be the Ball sports

BUT

BUDDHA,

YOU

THAILAND MAY

THE BUDDHA WOULD HAVE made a good golfRatherinstructor.thanshow his students the proper grip or stance, he would point them toward the Right Path. He’d teach chakras instead of chipping, mantras instead of mid-irons, the Four Noble Truths instead of a Five-Step Swing. The game would be just that: a game. It would be…serene. In other words, the way it’s supposed to be. And the spiritual home of golf wouldn’t be gray, dour Scotland, but rather sunny, happy Thailand, where these days golf courses are multiplying likeAbamboo.fewyears ago, someone had the bright idea of luring visitors to Thailand with lush fairways where they could combine the ultimate game of selfﬂagellation with a culture of peace and inner harmony. The ploy seems to have worked. Today, playing golf in Thailand can be a Zen-like experience, leading even the most ill-tempered, hard-swinging hacker to adopt a new attitude of tranquility, one that the Buddha would surely approve of. There are now more than 250 courses in Thailand, catering to local businessmen as well as golfers from the rest of the world. For the visitor, there are maybe 50 good courses, a dozen of those worth a special trip to play. (Most of the rest are run by the country’s armed forces.) Although the nation’s geography ranges from jungle and mountains in the north to sand and sea in the south, certain givens apply to all the top clubs: great conditions, top amenities, delightful caddies, delicious food and unfailingly cold beer. Also, affordable prices: A week of golf in Thailand costs roughly the same SEEM A LITTLE OFF THE BEATEN PATH FOR GOLF LOVERS, WHEN APPLY THE TEACHINGS OF THE YOU MIGHT JUST BECOME ONE WITH THE HOLE.

The most comprehensive outﬁtter in Thailand, GolfAsian will set up tee times at places like Banyan Golf Club, above, reserve hotel rooms and even arrange non-golf-related excursions. Offers the personal touch.

The wilder, more modern Plantation Course features more sand than the Jersey Shore. On the par-ﬁve ﬁfth hole, I manage to avoid all 27 bunkers and reach the green in three magical shots. I start to feel that false sense of security golfers get when they think they’ve “got it.” My muscles loosen (it could be the heat or the humidity, both approaching triple digits), and my normally leaden putting stroke gains a silky smoothness. And a birdie. The following morning, I tee off at dawn at the

NAMAS -TEE How to ﬁnd the Right Path to the fairway.right GOLFASIAN • GOLFASIAN.COM •

TOURISM AUTHORITY OF THAILAND • TOURISMTHAILAND.ORG • From this website, you can book everything from rental cars to elephant rides, as well as connect with resorts, instructors and even a Buddhist monastery or two.

The lush, rolling hills of Banyan Golf Course are mentally challenging and nonstop fun. For a few holes, good vibes help my game transcend.

everyinincorporatingmassage.award-winningyear-and-a-half-oldBanyanGolfClubinthehillsoutsideHuaHin.Lush,rolling,mentallychallengingandnonstopfun,it’smyfavoritecourseinThailand.Forafewholes,goodvibeshelpmygametranscend.Thecoursesuitsmyeyes,andmystrokesseemtoconformperfectlytoeachofitscontours.LaterItreatmyselftoaThaimassagetechniques,tenetsalsofoundacupunctureandyoga,worklimbandjoint.Butbewarned:

BOARDING PASS Fly United to Bangkok temples,treasures.Thailand’sexperienceandcapitalcityandnationalExplorethemagniﬁcentpalacesandandleavetheworriesofgettingthereuptous.

MAY 2010 | UNITED.COM 54

The standard rubdown can prove too forceful for the uninitiated, and inner peace can quickly turn into outerStill,pain.Mark Siegel—an American who moved to Thailand 20 years ago and now runs tour operator olfAsian— gets a feet, hands, neck and head massage nearly every day. For about six dollars an hour, the therapist works away his stress while he taps away on his laptop, the perfect melding of business and pleasure. He is able who thinks he is able. The caddies in Thailand are mostly young women who can make a better living carrying clubs than working in an office or factory. Wearing long sleeves, wide-brimmed hats and gloves as protection from the scorching sun, these cheerful ambassadors also ﬁll in as both Sherpa and nurse. They’re great at judging yardage and reading

GOLF IN A KINGDOM • GOLFINAKINGDOM.COM • In case you’re still not sure where to begin, this website forms a sort of consortium of clubs, with descriptions of the best of the country’s 250 courses. as a week in Orlando or Scottsdale, including airfare. The whole secret of existence is to have no fear. Golf can be painful. It’s demanding, demeaning and demoralizing— mentally and physically. I’ve learned this on courses around the world. But as I arrive Thailand—admittedly,ina long trip from New York just to golf—I view this as a chance to open my consciousness to peace and enlightenment.greaterOrat least a smoother swing. My journey begins an hour from Bangkok at the Thai Country Club, a short track lined with trees and water. It’s a good warm-up, although it can make one hot with anger. Pro golfers have been known to pass through here and blow their cool on the devastating par-four 10th hole. It’s rare that I can compare myself to a pro, but at Thai CC, I’m humbled by the 10th, searching fruitlessly for good vibrations and finding only muscle spasms. I wouldn’t have minded threeputting if I’d been able to hit a green in that many strokes first. The next day, I play two courses at the Siam Country Club in the hills outside town. The classically styled Old Course was the first privately owned links in the country, and it hosted an LPGA Tour event a few years ago. Thankfully, it’s a big ballpark with lots of room, so I feel able to swing more freely, less worried about a shot slicing into Cambodia. But it’s a roller coaster: On one shot, I’d think I’d found the key; on the next, I’d find a pond, a tree, a new depth of frustration.

greens, and they will run back to the snack shack in oppressive humidity to bring you a cold drink. Feel an ache coming on? They’ll massage your back or Atshoulders.ThaiCountry Club, my group is surprised by a sudden downpour. The caddies quickly cover our clubs, don cellophane rainsuits and scan the skies for lightning. My caddie, Siep, ushers me into the cart and snaps open an umbrella, which she proceeds to hold over me. It’s a nice gesture, but I feel a bit ridiculous. I repeatedly beg her to come in from the rain, but she refuses.

The

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To conquer oneself is a greater victory than to conquer thousands in a battle. The longer I’m in Thailand, the more the good golf karma takes hold, and the more my game shows flashes of adequacy. After a few days of flailing, I begin to feel fluid. I slow down, realizing that I have to cool off inside to beat the heat outside. I start to really notice the bountiful plant and animal life, and turn my mind from keeping score to soaking in the experience. After all, it’s about the journey, not theAnddestination.thenIhave it—my Zen golf moment. Fans of Caddyshack will understand when I say that I actually stopped thinking long enough to “be the ball.” It is my final round in Thailand, a tee shot on one of the last holes. My swing suddenly develops tempo and makes a perfect turn. The ball rockets off the face, traces the shape of the fairway and bounces well past the other drives from my foursome. For one swing, I have reached a higher plane of golf wisdom. I will see that shot in my head for months to come. One hole later, I shank it straight into the water. As the Buddha says, Life is Thesufferingformereditor of Golf Magazine, JAMES A. FRANK has a registered handicap of 14 and a seriously tweaked muladhara chakra. Visit: www.greatsteakofna.com last

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57 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY 2010

IT’S AN EXCEEDINGLY strange story with a fable-like quality: In the early 1970s, catfish farmers in Kansas imported shipments of Asian carp—a huge, heavy-bodied fish known for its ability to jump and its insatiable appetite—all the way from China in order to clean out algae from his catfish ponds. Widespread flooding in the early ’90s washed them into nearby rivers and streams, where they took up residence. That’s when the trouble began. Carp are such hearty eaters that they can gobble up nearly 40 pounds of plankton per day, which is why farmers chose them for cleaning the algae out of their catfish ponds in the first place. In their new habitat in the Kansas River Basin, however, they ate and multiplied so prodigiously that the local food sources were soon depleted, sending native species into rapid decline. Since then, the fish, which can weigh up to 100 pounds and have become infamous for causing Jet Ski accidents and vaulting across roads, are now plentiful in the Mississippi and Missouri rivers and are threatening to conquer the Great Lakes. Indeed, among fishermen, state wildlife officials and the federal government, fear of this invasive species has grown so great that in early February the Obama administration announced a $78.5 million initiative to prevent its spread.

THE RAVENOUS, UNSTOPPABLE ASIAN CARP IS THREATENING TAKE OVER AMERICAN LAKES AND RIVERS. ONE LOUISIANA CHEF IS TRYING BITE PETER

BACK. HUNGRY? BY ETHAN BROWN // PHOTOGRAPHS BY

Giant Leap food & drink

One

FRANK EDWARDS CATCH OF THE DAY The silverfin fishcake in crawfish tomato cream sauce

MAY 2010 | UNITED.COM 58

“They just jumped into the wrong boat,” Frioux quipped to the chef. An adventurous eater, Parola quickly dispatched the carp and put the fish on ice. That night, he cooked them up, finding their meat far more flavorful than he’d imagined.

Makes four servings

The carp, however, has so far made chum out of the various antifish technologies deployed by its opponents: It’s reportedly already bypassed an electric barrier meant to hold it back, and its arrival in the Great Lakes now seems assured. Environmentalists, wildlife experts, politicians—the carp has outsmarted themButall.down in the steamy bayous outside Baton Rouge, Louisiana, the wily carp may have finally met its match, in the form of a highly motivated and crafty chef/entrepreneur named Philippe Parola, who is wagering that the best way to combat the carp is to learn to love it—asParola’sdinner.introduction to the fish happened accidentally, in a slapstick episode in the late summer of 2009, when he was angling for catfish from a skiff in the Atchafalaya Basin—a delta in south central Louisiana near the Gulf of Mexico. Around midday, he and a friend, Cajun fisherman Billy Frioux, were about to dig into lunch when two carp— weighing 25 pounds each—leaped into their boat, landing right at the startled Parola’s feet.

•

“They were pretty tough to clean,” he says, “which is sometimes a bad sign. But the taste was great—somewhere between crabmeat and scallops.” The maligned carp, he realized, might actually ﬁnd a place at the New Orleans table beside staples such as tilapia, trout and the wise, whiskered catﬁsh.

•

• 1 lb. silverfin filet • 8 tbsp unsalted butter, melted • 1 tbsp Dijon mustard 1 tbsp lemon juice 1 egg, beaten NET GAIN Netting Asian carp on the Atchafalaya River outside Baton Rouge. The fish is renowned for its exceptional jumping ability.

Parola has a history of innovating with exotic foods, such as alligator meat and nutria (a semiaquatic rodent), which he introduced to diners in the French Quarter. With the Asian carp, his first step was to change the name to silverfin (also the title, coincidentally, of a book about the young James Bond). “Carp isn’t exactly the most inviting of names,” he explains. Then, with the backing of the Louisiana Department of Wildlife and Fisheries (which, like other state wildlife agencies, is struggling to battle the species’ growth), Parola mapped out a scheme to bring the fish to supermarkets and the dining rooms of fine restaurants. He began by partnering with the New Orleans Fish House to distribute frozen, deboned silverfin steaks and prepared cakes to established grocery store chains in Louisiana, such as the family-owned Rouse’s, which is an enthusiastic proponent of the “buy local” ethos. Getting the word out hasn’t been easy. A quick silverfin survey of chefs in New Orleans brought a series of brusque dismissals. “Have never used it or tasted it before,” said Alon Shaya, executive chef at popular New Orleans Italian restaurant Domenica, which is part of the sprawling Louisiana restaurant empire of chef John Besh. “I couldn’t comment on the quality of the fish since I’ve never used it.” Beyond that, the major obstacle to marketing the silverfin is its complex skeletal structure—it’s bony, which is why Parola’s currently hard at work on inventing a machine that can debone silverfin fast enough to match a professional kitchen’sLouisianapace.food writers and bloggers believe that if Parola is able to resolve the deboning issue, he has a good shot at getting silverfin onto Louisiana menus. Diners in the New Orleans area and the broader Gulf Coast are often more interested in the manner in which fish is prepared than the actual fish itself, notes New Orleans–based food blogger and OffBeat magazine food critic Rene Louapre. According to Louapre, diners wouldn’t mind a bit if one day their trout almondine becomes silverfin almondine. “If restaurants

•

Poach or steam silverfin until fully cooked, then break it up into pieces to remove bones. Place the meat into a mixing bowl. Add butter, mustard, half the egg and lemon juice, and mix well. Add bread crumbs, seasoned to taste. Form small cakes. Coat with remaining egg wash and seasoned flour. Fry in cooking oil over medium-high heat for four to five minutes until golden brown. Serve with a beurre blanc or lemon butter sauce. 2 tbsp bread crumbs 1 cup seasoned flour 4 tbsp vegetable oil Seasoning and hot sauce to taste

SILVERFIN CAKES

FILET O’ FISH Chef Philippe Parola preps silverﬁn in his kitchen in Baton Rouge

59 substituted Asian carp for trout, I honestly don’t think anyone would be any wiser,” Louapre says. “Especially if it is inexpensive and is served in a style that people are accustomed to eating.” Parola’s silverfin quest is still a grassroots operation. His rollout of the fish to restaurants has been slow and is dependent on younger, less established chefs willing to take a gamble on it. For now, just one restaurant in the Gulf South—Oceana Grill in the French Quarter—has added silverfin to the menu, though Oceana chef Rami Bader says he is hugely enthusiastic about its prospects after experimenting with a silverfin cake appetizer in late February. “I served the silverfin cake with jambalaya and a mushroom cream sauce,” he says, “and the reaction from the customers was great. The meat was very white, and it had a very clean taste; it was not fishy at all. Plus, the silverfin turned out to be easy to debone. I just boiled it.” Meanwhile, the carp is out there, gobbling up algae and multiplying. “The only answer,” says Parola, “is to get the fish on the dining room table.”

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New Orleans writer ETHAN BROWN is the author of Shake the Devil Off, Snitch and Queens Reigns Supreme “The taste was great—between crabmeat and scallops,” says chef Philippe Parola, who is rebranding the Asian carp as silverﬁn. food & drink

WHEN TIMES GET TOUGH, investors traditionally look to gold as a safe haven for their capital. That’s the simplest explanation for the surge in gold prices during the economic crisis to an all-time high of $1,225 an ounce this past December. Of course, in real terms this was less than the $599 it hit in 1981, when Russia was in Afghanistan and America’s global dominance was in question. But it does prove that the metal retains its glittery allure for investors and national treasuries alike—especially when they don’t know where else to turn. Gold’s critics believe the recent pullback from these all-time highs signals the end of a bull market for gold and, therefore, (good news!) the end of speculation over a full-scale economic meltdown. Fans counter that we’re merely seeing a temporary retreat before even greater demand sets in. After all, many governments are still in trouble, and while they can print more paper money, they can’t pull more gold out of thin air. Research ﬁrm McKinsey & Company’s new report on the global economic outlook, considered optimistic in most investing circles, paints a best-case scenario that calls for a six-year horizon for the unwinding of the debt crisis. That’s six years of nervous investors. And whenever investors get nervous, gold stands to gain. In the long term—since 1800, to be exact—the stock market has generally outperformed gold. That’s because most of the time, businesses can actually generate revenue, while gold can only ever store value. (Your gold

IN TIMES OF CRISIS, GOLD TAKES ON A SPECIAL SHINE. HOW DO WE KNOW WHEN THE MARKET HAS REACHED ITS PEAK? BY DOUGLAS RUSHKOFF // ILLUSTRATION BY GARY TAXALI Heavy Metal industryHEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY 2010

GOLD ETFS Investors can also buy a stake in real gold through an “exchange-traded fund,” which, as the name implies, trades on the stock exchange throughout the day just like a regular stock. The ETF mirrors the spot price of gold and is backed by real gold that the fund buys at the end of each day.

And of course, when the dollar goes down, everything from oil to ice cream goes up, because it takes more cash to buy anything. Even without the higher demand for gold, then, its price rises when the dollar falls. Stocks also tend to go up when the dollar is down, because most investors would rather own a portion of a thriving company than a stack of depreciating cash. But in the long term, a ﬁnancial crisis inevitably impacts the proﬁtability of businesses, and stocks too become dangerous places to be. Investors look for something real. The difference between gold and other commodities, however, is that while things such as oil and copper rarely do well in economic downturns—because a business slowdown usually means less immediate need for real resources— gold has very little real use beyond

GOLD MINING COMPANIES

A number of companies, such as Bullion Vault and Gold Money, offer the ability to buy gold directly, which is then stored in vaults. While Bullion Vault has facilities in the U.S., both companies also maintain vaults in Zurich and England, catering to investors who fear that the U.S. government will one day conﬁscate gold, as it did in 1933.

What good is a piece of a gold brick in a Zurich basement going to do for you in the apocalypse? In the event of economic collapse, some believe that gold coins, such as the South African Krugerrand or Canadian Maple Leaf, would be the only viable currency. Then again, if the worst came to pass, you might have better luck trading batteries or cans of tuna.

One of the the easiest ways to get some gold exposure in a portfolio is to buy stock in the companies that mine it, such as Newmont Mining (NEM) and Goldcorp (GG). But a host of factors—such as low reserves, rising production costs and even politics—can negatively impact the stock price even when gold itself is going up.

CLAYMANELLIEBYICONS GOING FOR THE GOLD

MAY 2010 | UNITED.COM 62 industry bricks can’t make chips, for instance— computer, potato or otherwise.) When the economy or geopolitical climate destabilizes, gold tends to shoot up as investors stop risking their money for the sake of growth and start looking instead for a means of capital preservation. “Unlike paper assets, stocks and bonds, gold cannot go to zero,” explains Charles Hugh Smith, author of Survial+: Structuring Prosperity for Yourself and the Nation. Even so, “gold bugs,” as enthusiasts of the metal are called, sometimes find themselves in a peculiar position when it comes to the fate of the world. While owning a bit of gold has traditionally served as a hedge, the notion of aggressively investing in gold can seem a little like rooting for Armageddon. Whatever one’s predictions about the fate of the U.S. treasury and/or civilization as we know it, sophisticated investors looking to make gold a part of their portfolio owe it to themselves to distinguish between the monetary and psychological factors influencing gold’s price and to make decisions accordingly. Perhaps the most fascinating thing about gold is its reputation as the ultimate commodity: a real asset because it is actually worth something. The irony is that intrinsically, gold isn’t particularly valuable. It’s just rare. There’s a difference. In antiquity, gold became a great symbol of value because of its scarcity. Aside from being easy to sculpt, gold did not have any particular purpose for the ancients trading it. Instead, its scarcity guaranteed that coinage made with it could not be churned out infinitely. Even paper money was backed by real gold reserves until the World Wars, when nations no longer had enough gold to back all the cash needed to fund their militaries. That’s when “In God We Trust” became the only thing differentiating paper money from, well, paper. Ever since money and gold were decoupled, they have tended to move in opposite directions. When people see their governments and treasuries as stable, they also maintain faith in their currencies and have little need for an alternative asset class. But during wars and other inflation-inducing crises that cause currencies to lose value, gold tends to sparkle all the brighter.

THE MAIN GOLD INVESTING STRATEGIES AND HOW TO PLAY THEM

GOLD BULLION

GOLD COINS

There are many types of gold coins available from rare or historic to modern, along with coins in between. Different products may offer different features and beneﬁts. You want to work with a company that offers a wide variety of products and can assist you in understanding them to make an informed decision.

Why Goldline?

*See Goldline’s Account and Storage Agreement for full details. Precious metals and rare coins can increase or decrease in value. Past performance is not a guarantee of future results. Review Goldline’s Account and Storage Agreement along with their risk disclosure booklet, Coin Facts for Investors and Collectors to Consider, prior to making a purchase. You may request copies by calling 1-877-498-8888 or review them online at www.goldline.com/united.

Then again, if after the turmoil of the past few years you’ve actually got some capital left to invest, chances are you’ve been making the right decisions all along. Listen to your gut.

1. Reputable Company Be sure you can rely upon the company you work with. When conducting your company research, consider the following questions: How long has the company been in business? What are their annual sales? How are they rated by consumer groups like the Better Business Bureau? Do they provide their policies in writing? Get the answers to these questions and be conﬁdent in a company before you purchase from them.

DOUGLAS RUSHKOFF, author of Life, Inc.: How the World Became a Corporation and How to Take It Back, appreciates gold for being so ﬂexible.

MAY CROSSWORD ANSWERS 63 its function as a ﬁnancial instrument.

When you acquire physical gold, you can have it shipped directly to you or stored in an independent facility (depending upon your state of residence, some restrictions may apply). Another option is to acquire precious metals as part of your retirement planning. Decide how you want to keep your metals and be sure your company of choice can accommodate you. Just as important as making the choice to invest in gold is ensuring you acquire your gold from the right company. Follow these key considerations and join savvy investors that have long recognized gold as an important part of a diversiﬁed portfolio.

When the economy destabilizes, the value of gold tends to shoot up. Today, as it has throughout history, gold fascinates collectors and enthusiasts for its beauty, cultural signiﬁcance and rarity (only 161,000 tons of gold have been mined in all of history – less than the capacity of two Olympic-sized swimming pools). Investors often turn to gold as a “safe haven asset” that provides a potential hedge against inﬂation and has intrinsic value. Once you have made the important decision to diversify your portfolio with gold, you must decide where to acquire your gold. Here are some factors to consider:

Goldline has an A+ rating from the Better Business Bureau and offers a Price Guarantee Program to re-price certain purchases if prices fall within 14 days*. With over 300 employees and annual sales of over $500 million, you’ll enjoy the beneﬁts of dealing with a solid company and industry leader.

Call Goldline at 1-877-498-8888 or visit www.goldline.com/united to request a FREE Investor Kit with information to get you started investing in gold.

Notes Kamal Naqvi, head of Fund Coverage for Commodities at Credit Suisse, “Gold’s value is supported largely by the fact that national banks buy gold and keep it as reserves.” It’s more valuable as a poker chip than as a commodity in its own right, which explains why in challenging times gold starts to look so appealing. The more fretful you are about the fate of the world (or the more fretful you think everyone else is), the more you want to be in gold. Though, as Naqvi cautions, “Gold is better as a nonspeciﬁc hedge than the entirety of one’s investment strategy.” Smith agrees: “It’s as easy to lose money speculating in gold as in anything else.”

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Goldline has been helping investors and collectors acquire precious metals for 50 years. Goldline offers a wide variety of gold, silver, and platinum coins and bars that can be delivered to your door, stored in a secure, independent facility, or added to your IRA.

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I ntroducing United’s new service to Bahrain. The only U.S. airline to ﬂy to Bahrain. Fly the fastest route from the U.S. to the Kingdom of Bahrain. Daily departures from Washington Dulles to Bahrain International, via Kuwait, start this spring. For more information, visit united.com/bahrain. ©2010 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY 2010 artifact Seoul’s trendily dressed teenagers crowd into market stalls to procure cell phone charms such as this one, outﬁtted in traditional hanbok 82P. 66 EXCELLENT ADVENTURES Twelve vacations you won’t forget 76 THE CREATOR Inventor Dean Kamen’s weird science By Kevin Gray 82 THREE PERFECT DAYS: SEOUL The South Korean capital’s got soul. By Layla Schlack FEATURES 65

WHITEWATER RAFTING COLORADO Few things get the heart racing like stepping off a perfectly good piece of earth and riding a raft through raging class III whitewater. The Yampa River in late spring is tough enough to make your brown eyes blue, and few meals taste as good as one cooked on a sandbar after shooting a rapid. O.A.R.S. oars.com

OUTFITTER:

DIFFICULTY: 5

EXCELLENTADVENTURES FROM LAOS TO COLORADO, HAWAII TO GHANA, AND THE POCONOS TO OUTER SPACE (OR CLOSE ENOUGH), HERE ARE A DOZEN AMAZING REASONS TO SKIP THE SUMMER STAYCATION. SUNSCREEN NOT INCLUDED. MAY 2010 | UNITED.COM 67

OUTFITTER: TIERRA ATACAMA tierraatacama.com

SCALING A VOLCANO Chile’s high desert, the Atacama, hosts cacti, foxes, storied native tribes and a trio of soaring volcanos. Start out at the Tierra Atacama, a brand new luxury resort and the perfect launch pad to gather the courage—and hire a guide—to get you up one of three (hopefully) dormant domes: Lascar, San Pedro or Guallatiri.

(2)DIANTONIPETERBYANDCOMMUNICATIONSPROMOOFCOURTESYLEFT:FROMSPREAD),(PREVIOUSBAILIEJUSTINBYPHOTOGRAPHSDIFFICULTY: YOU THATKNOWLAWN CHAIR IN BACKYARD—YOURCHILE 7

MONTH 2010 the one with the drink holder built into the armrest? Kiss it goodbye this summer. Same with that favorite patch of sand at your local beach or water park. These are the totems of the staycation, and although they can be relaxing, they can also be a little...dull. Sort of “been there, done that.” Occasionally, something with a touch more oomph is called for. You don’t just want a break, you need an experience—going someplace you’ve never been and trying something completely new. But how? Start by isolating your comfort zone. Then take one step beyond it. Ever imagine hiking to the rim of a volcano in the Chilean desert, or trekking to temples in the Laotian jungle? Now’s the time. How about zipping through whitewater in Colorado, ﬁnding a perfect trout stream in Slovenia or charging down the Baja peninsula in a dune buggy? The following pages showcase a dozen adventures rated for difficulty, along with outﬁtters who can help with the planning. The rest is up to you. The point is to get out and do something. Your lawn chair will be there when you get back.

There are cycling enthusiasts, and then there are cycling enthusiasts who eschew latemodel bikes and fancy energy drinks in favor of vintage models and wine. The Eroica race—open to amateurs—is not easy: It includes 30,000 feet of elevation change and crosses mostly gravel roads. But the views are fantastic, and so is the prize for ﬁnishing: a nice bottle of Chianti.

RACING A BIKE THROUGH TUSCANY

OUTFITTER: L’EROICA eroica-ciclismo.it DIFFICULTY:

ITALY 10

UNITED.COM | MAY 2010 69

outﬁtted 727—complete

like to

Cabo San Lucas, you’ll be hot, tired and coated in dust— and more than ready for a dip in

padded walls— that

azure waters of the Paciﬁc. OUTFITTER: WIDE OPEN ADVENTURES wideopenbaja.com INDOCHINA’SEXPLORING LAST WILDERNESS Skip the crowds at Angkor Wat by trekking into what may be the wildest jungle in Southeast Asia. Traverse lush green rice paddies, tour coffee and tea plantations, cool off under surging waterfalls and arrive at nearly pristine pre-Angkoran temples, which you’ll likely have all to yourself. OUTFITTER: GEOGRAPHIC EXPEDITIONS geoex.com DIFFICULTY:DIFFICULTY: DIFFICULTY: LAOS BAJA CALIFORNIA 6 7 TROPOSPHERE 3

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you

the Baja peninsula, and by the

BLASTING be a specially with lets what feels experience down time reach the

participants learn

zero Gs. It’s the ultimate diet. OUTFITTER: ZERO G gozerog.com RIDING A DUNE BUGGY You’ll spend very little time on pavement during this ultimate offroad trip

a real drag. Zero G offers suborbital ﬂights aboard

OFF Sometimes gravity can

TROUT FISHING IN EUROPE They say the waters of the winding Soca river are as blue as the Caribbean—and they’re right. They also say the trout here are tougher, more beautiful and tastier than just about anywhere else in the world. They’re right about that, too. The best part? After a couple days of ﬁshing, you’re a quick drive from Milan, Munich, Ljubljana or Vienna. OUTFITTER: LUSTRIK FISHING ADVENTURES lustrik.com DIFFICULTY: HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY 2010 ITALIAN/ SLOVENIAN BORDER 3 71

HELI-HIKING THE MOUNT NIMBUS VIA FERRATA Hop in a chopper at the base of Mount Nimbus, just north of Vancouver, and ride to a spot halfway up, where you can navigate a labyrinth of narrow rope bridges and iron traverses. Believe it or not, it’s a lot safer than rock climbing. Just don’t look down. OUTFITTER: CANADIAN MOUNTAIN HOLIDAYS canadianmountainholidays.com DIFFICULTY: BRITISH COLUMBIA, CANADA 5

SCUBA DIVING WITH SHARKS You don’t have to travel all that far north of Sydney to ﬁnd some of the most captivating underwater features on the planet. At the Solitary Islands Marine Park, you’ll discover vast coral reefs, otherworldy ﬁsh, crystalline water and, yes, the occasional hammerhead shark. OUTFITTER: JETTY DIVE jettydive.com.au KLEIN/PHOTOLIBRARYRODGERBYAND(LEFT)HELI-HIKING&HELI-SKIINGCMHOFCOURTESYPHOTOGRAPHS DIFFICULTY: AUSTRALIA 6 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY 2010 73

PUTTING PEDAL TO METAL There are plenty of driving schools out there that let you zip around in a fast car, but very few that let you wheel the real deal. At the Pocono Raceway in rural Pennsylvania, you’ll pilot a 600-horsepower stock car that was used in the NASCAR circuit. From the moment you start your engine, you’ll realize there’s much more to circling a track at 170 mph than turning left. OUTFITTER: STOCK CAR RACING EXPERIENCE 877stockcar.com MAY 2010 | UNITED.COM PADDLE SURFING ON THE BIG ISLAND This latest It sport—popularized by superhuman surfer Laird Hamilton— combines the frothy gnarliness of surﬁng with the cardio workout of kayaking. Hawaii’s Big Island is the perfect place to learn—and to get your butt kicked. OUTFITTER: KONA BOYS konaboys.com DIFFICULTY:DIFFICULTY: HAWAII 9 THE POCONOS 7

BIRDING IN WEST AFRICA President Obama visited Ghana last year, the country was hailed as the “African miracle.” Find out why on a bus from Accra to Kokum National Forest, a nearly untouched preserve safaris.

When

While you’re looking for beasts that ﬂy, you’ll probably get some four-legged bonuses such as elephants, leopards, baboons and more. OUTFITTER: ALL AFRICA EXPEDITIONS allafricaexpeditions.com DIFFICULTY: GHANA 3 HEMISPHERSMAGAZINE.COM | MAY 2010 75

BYBLICKWINKEL/ALAMY,BYJOSS/PHOTOLIBRARY,JOSSBYPHOTOGRAPHSLEFT:TOPFROMCLOCKWISE STOCKCAR877OFCOURTESYIBE/MEGARAMP;RAYOFCOURTESYWORLDFOTO/ALAMY,BYMURRAY,GRAEME 1 SKATEBOARDING A MEGARAMP > VISTA, CALIFORNIA Bob Burnquist’s MegaRamp is longer than a football field and nearly eight stories tall. Should you find yourself about to ride it, please reconsider. DIFFICULTY: 11 DON’T TRY THIS AT HOME WE HEARTILY ADVOCATE ADVENTURE, BUT THIS STUFF IS JUST PLAIN RIDICULOUS. 2 CLIMBING AN ICEBERG > ALASKA Climbing an iceberg is the sort of thing that seems like a good idea after you’ve run out of other activities in the dark of a sub-Arctic winter. It’s not. DIFFICULTY: 11 3 B.A.S.E. JUMPING IN A WINGSUIT > NEW ZEALAND B.A.S.E. jumping—parachuting off fixed objects such as buildings and cliffs—is dangerous. Donning a wingsuit and “flying” just above the ground? Madness. DIFFICULTY: 11

offering bird-watching

THE CRE TECH PIONEER DEAN KAMEN, BEST KNOWN FOR THE SEGWAY PEOPLE MOVER, THINKS SCIENCE EDUCATION NEEDS A JOLT OF ELECTRICITY. USE THE FORCE Kamen’s latest creation is the revolutionary Luke Arm, named for Star Wars’ Skywalker.

BY KEVIN GRAY PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAN SAELINGER UNITED.COM/ 77 MAY 2010 ATOR

Forty-eight hours ago, he was in New Orleans, consulting with Army colonels about the functions of a $100,000 prosthetic arm he is creating for amputee veterans. Then it was a quick trip to Washington, D.C., lobbying federal regulators to fast-track clinical trials for his at-home dialysis machine. His own home, a hexagonal manse with a Humvee in the garage and a 25-ton steam engine that belonged to Henry Ford in the foyer, is a few miles away. But Kamen spends most of his time here, amid 5,000 square feet of workshop and dozens of engineers.

On a still, sunny day early this spring, Kamen—the wonky and chatty inventor of the Segway—hops Bond-like from his Enstrom helicopter and strides across the roof of his 1840s textile factory headquarters in downtown Manchester, New Hampshire.

“This country is in trouble,” he tells me, sounding every bit the action hero as he bemoans the lack of interest in the type of hard science that built America. Kamen, 59, wears a denim-on-denim ensemble. His boots are well oiled and worn. An iPhone is holstered to his belt. In one corner of his workshop sits a gadget-strewn desk; in another, a lucite chair molded to give the impression that the user is perched on Albert Einstein’s lap. “You’ve got a few billion people around the world looking at what made us great, ﬁguring out the skill sets and teaching their kids,” he says. “More and more, I worry that we’ve ﬁgured out that watching the Super Bowl is fun and that science isn’t. We can change that.”

Kamen is just warming up. More than bionic arms and dialysis, more than bringing clean water and energy to the developing world, more than helping people get around on a self-balancing two-wheeler, Kamen wants to talk about America’s inventors of tomorrow. Eighteen years ago, when he ﬁrst became concerned that the nation’s youth weren’t engaged enough with science, Kamen, founder of DEKA Research and Development Corp., started one of the country’s largest technology competitions for high school kids. He called it FIRST—For Inspiration and Recognition of Science and Technology. Each April, its national robotics championship brings 10,000 high school and middle school students to the 72,000-seat Georgia Dome in Atlanta to take part in a unique problem-solving game. The concept is simple: After forming teams in their hometowns, students are given kits of common parts—motors, hydraulics, radio controllers—that they must assemble to create robots in six weeks. They are also given a complicated task for the robot to perform. This year, the task is a game called Breakaway, a kind of robot soccer in which the gizmos compete to collect soccer balls and maneuver them into a goal. Since he started the competition in 1992 in a high school gym in Manchester, Kamen—a self-taught engineer who devised a portable insulin pump when he was barely older than his FIRST competitors—has had one goal. “I wanted to prove you can make a science event every bit as exciting as football or basketball,” he says. “And the byproduct is kids learn how to think, to solve problems and be prepared to take over the world.”

At 21, workshopBelow,insulininventedKamenanpump.his

Kamen likes to say he has a day job and a fantasy job, the fantasy job being FIRST. The day job, of course, is running DEKA Research and seeking out and developing new products that he then licenses to manufacturers. One of the most highly anticipated is the Stirling engine, which can convert any fuel—cow dung, for instance—into electricity, and which could have a profound impact in the developing world. Among DEKA’s greatest hits to date are the insulin pump, a stair-climbing wheelchair and a coronary stent. Most recently, the U.S. Department of Defense gave DEKA an $18 million grant to develop a state-of-the-art prosthetic limb; Kamen—a proud nerd—has dubbed it the Luke Arm, after Luke Skywalker. It has 18 degrees of movement (the

IF GEEKDOM EVER NEEDS AN ACTION HERO, DEAN KAMEN IS READY FOR THE JOB. 1 : UNITED.COM/ 78 MAY 2010 TOTAL BRAINIAC

One of FIRST’s greatest strenths is its founder’s talent for promotion. Long before police officers were zipping around on Segways, the mysterious “Project Ginger,” as the then-topsecret transporter was known, was the subject of global obsession, with reports speculating that its impact could equal that of the internet.

“If you go through our season without a tear in your eye, you might be a robot yourself,” declares Woodie Flowers, a mechanical engineering professor at MIT, who was among FIRST’s founding supporters. Flowers sees the robots “as merely the campﬁre around which the tribes gather” and believes the group’s true feat is building a sense of “gracious professionalism.” It’s a term that encompasses technical skill, determination, good will and sportsmanship. “We give them a problem too big in a time too short with a budget too small—just like in the real world,” he explains. “And then they achieve their goals with informed thinking and critical analysis. It gives them real self-esteem. Not because some politician comes in and says, ‘Everyone here is a winner.’ No, this self-esteem makes sense and is durable.”

human arm has 22) and utilizes an electronic gyroscope that senses pitch, yaw and roll—the same device Kamen used in the Segway, his much talkedabout, if not best-selling, human transporter. (“I think it’s sold pretty well since it started,” Kamen says a bit defensively. “I don’t know how long it will be before people stop using three thousand–pound cars to drive four blocks.”)

Yet Kamen is undeniably a tech hero of the here and now. One of the coolest things currently on his drawing board is an innovation worthy of James Bond: a set of hydrofoils that allow swimming at twice the speed and half the energy output. “They’re carbon ﬁber wings, like on a Manta. Really cool,” Kamen says. He built demos for the Navy SEALS, who have tested them and asked him to build more as quickly as he can. “It gives them almost superhuman ability underwater,” he says with a smile. “My guess is that all the Navy SEALS are going to want them.”

Business writer KEVIN GRAY won his ﬁrst-grade science fair, but his engineer dad did all the work.

When Kamen wanted to build a wind turbine on an island he owns in Long Island Sound and the state of New York objected, he playfully seceded from the U.S. And he has burnished his image by opening his home to 60 Minutes and various design magazines.Onthisspring day, Kamen has several new projects on his plate. For instance, there’s the Stirling engine, which he recently used to power a couple of villages in Bangladesh using the methane produced by cow dung. He hopes to build a series of trial units for U.S. military outposts in Iraq and Afghanistan. “It’s looking more and more like we’ll get some serious support for that,” he says, declining to reveal the size of the potential contract. Throughout our talk, Kamen returns to two themes: the tradition of inventors from Eli Whitney to Thomas Edison, and the FIRST competition. He believes FIRST can be as big as the Super Bowl—when the rest of us are ready. “Ten years after the car was invented, it was still being called the horseless carriage,” he says. “We are reluctant to give up old ideas when something new happens.”

OBSESSING OVER SPORTS CROWDS OUT KIDS’ ABILITY TO SEE HOW FUN INVENTING IS. OUR STANDARD OF LIVING IS AT STAKE.” + UNITED.COM/ 80 MAY 2010 TOOL TIME Opposite, inside Selectrichisworkshop;ManchesterKamen’sbelow,vintageIBMtypewriter. : “

Each year, Kamen’s competition births enough uplifting tales to fill a season on the Lifetime channel: the Los Angeles gang member who put down his colors and picked up power tools; the beloved Massachusetts team that received a fire and police escort back into town; the underfunded Bronx students whose robot fell apart en route to Atlanta, prompting other teams to chip in spare parts so they could compete; the Cleveland tech school that was about to be torn down but was saved by its robotics team’s first-place ribbon.

As he makes the rounds of corporate suites, seeking sponsorship for FIRST, his pitch is earnest and alarming: Countries that don’t rise to the challenge of creating a stellar educational system will see precipitous declines in quality of life and economic security. “You get what you celebrate,” says Kamen. “Obsessing over sports crowds out a kid’s ability to see how fun math and science and inventing can be. It is our standard of living and security at stake.” Plenty of business leaders agree. General Motors gives $135,000 each year to help struggling school districts compete in FIRST, and some 275 of the automaker’s engineers work as team mentors. The computer-aided design maker Autodesk gives all of the teams a copy of its 3-D design program, a $17 million retail value. And Lego sponsors the junior robot contest for elementary and middle schoolers.

MAY 2010 | UNITED.COM 82 SEOUL FOOD Banchan (side dishes) clockwise from bottom right, white kimchi, eggplant, radish kimchi and spinach

SEOUL Despite being rooted in centuries-old traditions, the South Korean capital is unabashedly trendy and forward-looking. // BY LAYLA SCHLACK Three Perfect Days 84 DAY ONE NAscendingSeoulTower 88 DAY TWO palaceExperiencinglife 90 DAY THREE Riding the indoor roller coaster

FITTING TRIBUTE

DAY 1 There’s a lot of walking on today’s agenda, so you’ll want a good breakfast. Grab a quick bite at Take Urban café (1), just two blocks from your home base at The RitzCarlton, Seoul (2). The exterior’s honeycomb-pattern facade and the spacious, rustic-chic interior are part of a modern design boom that’s taking place in the southern part of town. The coffee is strong, the pastries are sweet, and the subway station is right outside. You’re ready to go. All directions are in English and Korean, which makes for an extra-easy ride for theFiveuninitiated.quickstops later, you’re at the National Cemetery (3), a large park ﬁlled with exhibits of weaponry and photos of troops, a striking reminder of how profoundly the Korean War affected the city. Strolling among its gingko trees is like walking in the country, and after a while, you’re ready for a little more hustle and bustle. Get back on the subway to the Yongsan Electronics Market (4). The stalls outside are no-frills—just pegboards lined with processors, graphics cards and tangles of high-tech doodads.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY ESRA CAROLINE RØISE CHUNGIMAGESTATE/ALAMY,BYRIGHT:FROMCLOCKWISEPAGE,THISHANSLIEN/ALAMY;ARNETOM(LEFT),ROWATANDREWBYPHOTOGRAPHSSPREAD:PREVIOUS IMAGESKOENEN/GETTYROBBELGE,FRÉDÉRICIMAGES,SUNG-JUN/GETTY

SOONKI KIM // CHEF // “Coffee Bar K has one of the broadest single malt selections on the entire peninsula, in addition to impeccable drinks, magniﬁcent ambience and spectacular company. Seoul’s the third city to get one—the other two are in Tokyo and Singapore.”

Clockwise from above, a mourner at the National Cemetery; Bukchon Village; Seoul from on high; opposite, the gardens at Changdeokgung Palace 1

But as you head deeper into the maze of shops, away from the stalls and food carts, you’ll ﬁnd more buyer-friendly fare, such as tiny netbooks and an assortment of Hello Kitty portable hard drives. Time for a new desktop? The prices are on the high side, but if you’re planning to build your own computer— many Seoul-dwellers seem to be doing just that—this is the place to pick up the pieces. Opting for lunch instead, you jump into a cab and head for Sushi Hyo (5). At the sushi bar, the chef serves one piece at a time, starting with yellowtail

THERE MAY BE NO PLACE IN THE WORLD where the gap between ancient enchantment and modern attractions is more pronounced than in Seoul. Due to a legacy of invasion (by the Japanese, the Mongolians, the Chinese), the city has rebuilt itself numerous times since becoming the capital of the Joseon Dynasty in the 14th century. Its latest incarnation is divided into two zones: the design-forward, tech-savvy and trend-loving southern part of the city—where alleyways crowded with irresistible boutiques intersect wide streets lined with luxury condos and restaurants—and the more crowded area north of the Han River, where narrow streets are home to historical sites, traditional residences and packed outdoor markets. The city remains ﬁercely proud of its traditions and monuments while wholeheartedly embracing commercial growth. It’s a major metropolis with pockets that feel untouched by industrialization. The joy of a visit is in plunging into both sides of Seoul—the old and the new—and imagining where the city will go from here.

84 MAY 2010 | UNITED.COM

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3PD SEOUL

and haddock, and moving on to octopus and succulent fatty tuna. (A note on etiquette: Sushi is eaten with your hands; chopsticks are for the pickled ginger.) Having consumed more ﬁsh than you ever thought possible, you walk to Cheongdamdong (6), Seoul’s answer to Rodeo Drive, where you stop in one of many designer boutiques and grab a Louis Vuitton bag before moving on.

Namdaemun (7) is a sprawling market where you’ll find everything from Japanese pastries—baked this morning in Japan—to rows and rows of the stainless steel chopsticks favored in restaurants around the city. The market is named after the city’s ancient south gate, which was damaged by fire in 2008. Stay on the lookout for accessories, tableware and hanbok (traditional outfits consisting of full, high-waisted skirts and short fitted jackets for the women, and loose, silky overcoats for the men). Craving a glimpse of Seoul’s storied youth culture, you head east to Dongdaemun (8), the scene’s epicenter. The latest hit by “K-pop” music sensation Girls’ Generation blares from hundreds of TVs as teeny boppers wearing teddy bear hats shop for cartoon cell phone charms. Pick up a pair of anime-themed knee socks and be on your way. Before dinner, you ride to the top of N Seoul Tower (9), Seoul’s observatory high on a hill. Arriving just as the sun is setting, you spend a moment watching young couples write their names on locks, which they attach to the fence around the base, cementing their romance. Then you ascend, and Seoul’s vastness extends before you—376 square miles and 10.2 million people. As you gaze out at Seoul’s infamously entangled traffic, you make a decision: You’ll be taking the subway to dinner. Hop on the No. 4 line and make the easy transfer to the No. 9. Your destination is Nonhyeon Samgyetang (10), where you order samgyetang, a traditional chickenginseng stew. It’s a whole baby bird stuffed with rice, chestnuts and ginseng in a delicious savory broth. After a long day, the soup is so soothing you risk falling asleep in your bowl. Fortunately you’re close to the Ritz. You take note of Seoul’s stylish set lined up to dance under the laser lightshow inside Club Eden before passing through the hotel’s palatial lobby and up to your cushy suite. You climb ALL THAT GLITTERS Shopping in Insadong; above, traditional dumpling-making in Insadong NEXT OF KILN GET FIRED UP ABOUT POTTERY AT ICHEON CERAMICS VILLAGE. // Korean pottery has a thousands-year history, reflecting shifting dynasties, religious influences and styles popular in Japan and China. The two most popular styles—Goryeo celadon and Joseon white—are both produced in Icheon Ceramics Village, an easy day trip from Seoul. There are about 300 ceramics producers here, and you can watch them in action, throwing delicately curvy vases and glazing them with intricate patterns of red cranes and lotuses. The designs come from Buddhist spiritual traditions, the light colors from the local clay’s natural hue. During your tour, you’ll learn more about all that, and if you like, even receive a tutorial on how to make your own vase or bowl. A word about making your own: It will take a couple of days for creations to be fired. Meanwhile, please try not to act like a bull in a china shop.

HIGH LIFE Clockwise: N Seoul Tower; a visitor takes a snapshot; the amusement park at Lotte World; children at the Lotus Lantern Festival

2 SOUTH KOREA’S NATIONAL DISH, KIMCHI, REACHES FAR BEYOND THE CABBAGE PATCH. // The beloved spicy pickled cabbage most of the world knows as kimchi is to Koreans only one variety of the dish. Often made with radishes or cucumbers, it can be mild, sweet or eye-wateringly spicy. Sometimes it's flavored with fish, too. Visitors are encouraged to try as many types as possible, which shouldn't be difficult, as it's served at every meal.

88 MAY 2010 | UNITED.COM

DAY 2 Fully rested, you sample a traditional Korean breakfast of abalone porridge at the buffet in The Garden on the Ritz-Carlton’s ground floor (if that sounds too adventurous for this hour, Western fare is also on hand). Your first stop today is Changdeokgung Palace (1). Originally built in 1405, over the centuries it housed various Joseon Dynasty kings. What with its airy cabin suspended over a lotus pond and colorful, intricate flower motifs painted on all the buildings, you wouldn’t mind spending a couple hundred years here either. The hour-and-a-half tour is compulsory but worthwhile. Your guide is endearing, especially when advising you to walk through the king’s doorway because it’s of normal height. The others are shorter so that his men had to bow as they entered.

ROWATANDREWSCHICKERT/ALAMY,PETERPHOTO/PHOTOLIBRARY,JTBBYPHOTOGRAPHSLEFT:FROM

WARRIOR POSE Admiral Yi Sun Shin overlooks Gwanghwamun Plaza; opposite, Cheonggyecheon Stream under the fluffy comforter and flip on the flatscreen in the bedroom, but you’re asleep before you even notice what’s on.

Ready for more of traditional Seoul, you walk to Insadong (2), a shopping district that specializes in celadon pottery, custom calligraphy stamps and some of the most pleasant incense you’ve ever encountered. For a hearty traditional meal, you venture off the main drag into one of the winding alleys and land at Nui Jo (3). Remove your shoes, have a seat on the floor and order the smallest of the prix-fixe meals. The appetizers—mild kimchi and melt-in-your-mouth roasted pork—are delicious, but pace yourself, because the main course, a savory rice pudding with mushrooms and chestnuts, is still to come, along with more kimchi, steamed spinach and anchovies with chili paste. Your next activity—a stroll along Cheonggyecheon Stream (4)—is fast becoming another of Seoul’s great traditions, and families line the paths. Eventually, you emerge near Gwanghwamun Plaza (5), in front of Gyeongbokgung Palace. Take a quick gander at the new statue of King Sejong before moving on to take in the art scene. It’s a short walk to the gallery district Bukchon Village (6). Ducking in and out of exhibition spaces, you browse paintings by local artists before hailing a cab to Cho-won (7) to dine on some globefish, also known as blowfish. This infamous Japanese fare is easy to find in South Korea, so the chefs have enough experience preparing it that they deftly avoid the poisonous part. Surprisingly delicate, the blowfish is first served shabushabu-style, then in deep-fried chunks.

Having survived dinner, you cab it back to SUENGHOON KIM // CELLULAR DEVICE ENGINEER // “If I’m looking to go to a club, it’s got to be Club Eden. Seoul barely had a nightclub scene before, but since Eden opened, others have been striving to replicate it. None have so far, though.”

It’s hard to overstate the importance of kimchi to Korean culture: Not only did the ﬁrst Korean astronaut bring some along on his trip, but one of the most coveted household appliances is the kimchi refrigerator, which has special controls for different stages of pickling. If all that’s not enough to satisfy your kimchi appetite, visit the Kimchi Field Museum (kimchimuseum.co.kr) for a look at everything from the massive ceramic crocks in which the dish was traditionally made to the lactic acid bacteria (under a microscope, of course) that spark the fermentation process.

IN A PICKLE //

DAY 3 A cup of coffee or tea is lovely, but on some mornings only a roller coaster will do. Take a cab past the looming Olympic Stadium (1), built for Seoul’s 1988 Summer Games. A mile and a half farther along, you arrive at Lotte World (2), a massive complex housing a shopping mall, the Lotte World Folk Museum, an ice-skating rink and an indoor amusement park—one of the largest in the world. Start in the department store basement for a red bean pastry, then head upstairs to the roller coaster, which is for some reason named the French Revolution. Vive la France! you think, before making your way to more steady ground. Get on the No. 2 subway to COEX (3), a megaplex featuring an outsize aquarium, as well as a shopping mall brimming, like so many malls the world over, with boisterous teens. You have a gander at the electronics and the stylish, well-priced clothes, and stop in at Kraze Burger, a diner-themed stand that gives a local twist with a curryflavored barbecue sauce. It may seem odd, but you can’t getReadyenough.for some fresh air, you head to the nearby Bongeunsa (4) complex of Buddhist temples. You wander among them, stopping into Bookgeukbojeon, where believers pray for miracles. Doffing your shoes, you take a seat and ask for one of your own. On your way out, have a look at Mireukdaebul, a 75-foot statue of the Buddha. Ten thousand followers worked for 10 years to build the figure. Gazing up at it, you’re thankful to all 10,000 of them for helping create such peace in the midst of this metropolis. You carry that feeling of serenity with you to the InterContinental Grand Seoul (5) for dinner at Table 34, where you make your way through three courses of French food. Back at your own hotel, you decide at the last minute to join the crowd at Club Eden. Sipping a domestic Hite beer and watching the youth in their finest evening wear, you think Seoul’s in good hands.

Senior editor LAYLA SCHLACK has the most charm-bedecked cell phone of all the Hemispheres staff

LPI/NEWSCOMBELGE,FRÉDÉRICVERIN/PHOTOLIBRARY,MARCBYPHOTOGRAPHSBOTTOM:FROMCLOCKWISE

3 MARGARET WHITTUM // ACTOR, DIRECTOR, PRODUCER FOR SEOUL PLAYERS // “My favorite thing to do is walk on the banks of the Cheonggyecheon Stream at night. It always has some beautiful light installations on display. Summer or winter, it’s lovely and peaceful.”

GOING THE DISTANCE Clockwise from above, a runner at the Olympic Park; an Insadong alleyway; and Lotte World’s carousel

swanky Cheongdam-dong, where the sidewalks are thick with fashionistas hitting the wine and sake bars. You stop in at The Foot Shop (8) for a foot massage. It’s preceded by a “ﬁsh pedicure,” which entails dipping your feet into a small, cold tub and letting tiny carp nibble off the dead skin. Then the masseuse calls you in, putting an end to the ticklish proceedings, and gets down to business. Though you make good use of the phrase “apayo,” which means “It’s painful,” the massage does the trick, and back at the Ritz-Carlton, you’re feeling especially relaxed, so you stop in at the bar and sip a Soju-based cocktail as a live jazz trio unwinds some bebop. Soon, though, that ﬂuffy king-size bed calls your name.

Boarding pass Let United be your gateway to the capital of an ancient land. Stretch your legs in our lie-ﬂat seats while you prepare to explore a city that has one foot in the past and another in the future.

90 MAY 2010 | UNITED.COM

91 HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY 2010 STANKIEWICZSTEVEBYILLUTRATIONSMAP THOSE THREE PERFECT DAYS DAY ONE (1) Take Urban café 200-7 Nonhyun-dong, Gangnam-gu (2) The Ritz-Carlton, Seoul 602 Yeoksam-dong, Gangnam-gu (3) National Cemetery Dongjak-dong (4) Yongsan Electronics Market Near Yongsan train station (5) Sushi Hyo 1F 21-16 YuHyun B/D Chundamdong (6) Cheongdam-dong (7) Namdaemun Market Next to Namdaemun Gate (8) Dongdaemun In Jongno-gu (9) N Seoul Tower Yongsan-dong 2 (i)-ga San 1-3, Yongsan-gu (10) Nonhyeon Samgyetang 106 Nonhyeon-dong, Gangnam-gu DAY TWO (1) Changdeokgung Palace 2-71 Waryong-dong, Jongno-gu (2) Insadong Insadong-gil (3) Nui Jo Near Insadong (4) Cheonggyecheon Stream (5) Gwanghwamun Plaza In front of Gwanghwamun gate (6) Bukchon Village Between Gyeongbok Palace and Changdeok Palace (7) Cho-won Gangnam-gu (8) The Foot Shop Cheongdam-dong DAY THREE (1) Olympic Stadium 10 Jamsil-dong (2) Lotte World 40-1 Jamsil-dong, Songpa-gu (3) COEX 159 Samseong-dong, Gangnam-gu (4) Bongeunsa Samseong-dong 73, Gangnam-gu (5) InterContinental Grand Seoul 521 Teheranno, Gangnam-gu 34 3 1 210 3 4 6 7 8 9 5 1 2 5 5 4 6 SOUTH KOREA Seoul 1 2 7 8

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY 2010 93 MIX BUSINESS WITH PLEASURE Come for the fun of the mountains, but don’t lose sight of your success. We have the most complete conference and resort amenities in Breckenridge, Colorado with 40,000 square feet of space for groups from 10 to 1,000. Enjoy the Spa, 27-hole Jack Nicklaus Golf Course, team building, tented outdoor events and catering from fun to formal. 800.288.1282 · BeaverRun.com

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BUSINESS OPPORTUNITIES Own a pizza business and LET YOUR CUSTOMERS DO THE BAKING. Become a franchisee with an award-winning company that’s enjoyed 50% sales growth since 2004! And that’s not all. Join a business that’s: · Now open in 34 states with more than 1,180 stores · Won Best Pizza Chain in America for 7 straight years* · Easy to operate because your store does not have ovens or in-store dining Call 1-877-777-5062 or visit papamurphysfranchise.com.©2009Papa Murphy’s International, Inc. Offer made by prospectus only. FDD 2004—2008. *Restaurants and Institutions Consumers’ Choice in Chains 2009. PMI90072_FranchiseAd.indd 1 4/9/10 2:18:25 PM © 2009 Papa Murphy’s International, Inc. Offer made by prospectus only. FDD 2004—2008. *Restaurants and Institutions Consumers’ Choice in Chains 2009. PMI90072_FranchiseAd.indd 1 4/9/10 2:18:25 PM *“Highest Rated Chain - Value For The Money” based on a nationwide survey of quick service restaurant consumers conducted by Sandelman & Associates, 2008. ©2010 L.C.E. Inc., LC Trademarks, Inc., 2211 Woodward Ave., Detroit, MI 48201. 22182

MAY 2010 PLAY Watch Morgan Freeman channel Nelson Mandela in Invictus INFORMATION 120 United Destinations 124 Terminal Diagrams 129 Alliances & Partnerships 130 Customs & Immigration 139 Food & Beverages ENTERTAINMENT 110 Films & Television 117 Audio Programming 132 Crossword 134 Sudoku

“TOLSTOY’S NOT REALLY thought of as a fun character,” says Oscarnominated actor Christopher Plummer of his role in The Last Station. “But I wanted to give him as much humanity and humor as I could. If you have a lot of humanity, I think you also must have a great sense of humor to go with it. So [director] Michael Hoffman and I found some scenes to make it fun.” They also set some ground rules for bringing the world of Tolstoy to life: The actors spoke in their natural voices, he explains, to give the film an untranslated feel. And it worked. Plummer recalls an interview with a Russian journalist who told him that he “felt the film was in Russian...That’s the way to do a foreign language film!”—Matt Thompson

TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION MAY 1-15 Extraordinary Measures MAY 16-31 Invictus MAY 1-15 30 Rock [T] South Pacific [T] Everybody Loves Raymond [T] MAY 16-31 Two and a Half Men [T] Life [T] Arrested Development [T] MAY 1-15 The Las t Station APRIL 16-30 Leap Year Both films available on flights between Denver/Chicago and Hawaii MAY 1-15 The Office [T] History in HD The Middle [T] MAY 16-31 The Big Bang Theory [T] Oceans [T] Man V. Food MAY 1-15 Invictus MAY 16-31 Extraordinary Measures Both films available on flights between Denver/Chicago and Hawaii MAY 1-15 Two and a Half Men [T] Life [T] Arrested Development [T] MAY 16-31 30 Rock [T] South Pacific [T] Everybody Loves Raymond [T] MAY 1-15 Extraordinary Measures MAY 16-31 Invictus MAY 1-15 Two and a Half Men [T] The Good Wife [T] The Big Bang Theory [T] Frasier [T] MAY 16-31 The Office [T] Brothers and Sisters [T] Mythbusters Arrested Development [T] MAY 1-15 L eap Year MAY 16-31 The Last Station MAY 1-15 30 Rock [T] Life Unexpected [T] Man V. Food Everybody Loves Raymond [T] MAY 16-31 The Middle [T] Chuck [T] Man V. FriendsFood[T] &MEXICOHAWAIIAMERICANORTHCARIBBEAN MAY 1-15 Leap Year MAY 16-31 The Last Station MAY 1-15 The Big Bang Theory [T] Oceans [T] Man V. Food MAY 16-31 The Office [T] History in HD The Middle [T] &FILMTELEVISION FILMS ARE SHOWN ONLY on flights of three hours or longer. Movies available on most 747, 757, 767, 777, A319 and A320 aircraft flights. Schedules and selections are subject to change. International Language Tracks / (S) Películas están disponsibles en Español en todas las rutas domesticas en el canal 10. FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISIONSOUTHBOUND NORTHBOUND

EASTBOUND WESTBOUND FROM RUSSIA, WITH LOVE

FEATURING Amy Adams, Matthew Goode, Adam Scott DIRECTED BY Anand Tucker

After almost 50 years of marriage, the Countess Sofya, Leo Tolstoy’s wife and muse, suddenly ﬁnds her world turned upside down. In the name of his newfound religion, the Russian novelist has renounced his title, property and family in favor of poverty. A tale of two romances, one beginning, one ending, The Last Station is a story about the difﬁculty of love and the impossibility of living without it.

(S) Spanish (G) German (C) Chinese (J) Japanese [V] Violence [S] Sexual Situations [T] Adult Themes

EXTRAORDINARY MEASURES

“Well-acted across the board, but the ﬁlm’s centerpiece is the spectacular back and forth between Christopher Plummer...and Helen Mirren.”—Los Angeles Times

FEATURING Helen Mirren, Christopher Plummer, James McAvoy DIRECTED BY Michael Hoffman

“The ﬁlm can’t help but grip the heart and imagination, especially when the camera is trained on the two adorable, plucky children whose life-and-death struggles propel the plot.”—The Washington Post John Crowley walks away from a successful career when his two youngest children are diagnosed with a fatal disease. With his wife, Aileen, by his side, Crowley teams up with a brilliant, unconventional scientist to form a company focused on developing a life-saving drug.

FEATURING Morgan Freeman, Matt Damon, Scott Eastwood DIRECTED BY Clint Eastwood 2 hrs. 9 min. 1 hr. 52 min.

1 hr. 39 min.

MOST FILMS HAVE BEEN EDITED FOR AIRLINE USE. However, customer discretion is still advised. Content guidelines are provided as a courtesy to our customers in choosing whether to view a ﬁlm.

“[Clint] Eastwood’s achievement is something rare. Invictus reveals a master at the top of his game.”—Rolling Stone

CUSTOMERS ARE WELCOME TO VIEW their own video entertainment aboard a United aircraft as long as they are able to show the programming has an MPAA rating of “R” or less.

“Delightfully funny! A charming love story. Chemistry galore!”—ABC-TV Amy Adams stars in this comedy about a woman scheming to propose to her boyfriend on Leap Day, per Irish tradition. She faces a setback when she needs the help of an attractive innkeeper to get her to her boyfriend. After that, the surprises keep coming.

111HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY 2010

FEATURING Brendan Fraser, Harrison Ford DIRECTED BY Tom Vaughan 1 hr. 45 min. INVICTUS

LEAP YEAR

The ﬁlm tells the story of how Nelson Mandela joined forces with the captain of South Africa’s rugby team, Francois Pienaar. Believing he can bring his people together through sports, Mandela rallies the underdog team as it makes a run to the 1995 World Cup championship.

THE LAST STATION

The views contained in the video content are not necessarily those of United.

LIVE LEARN

OCEANS [T] In just one corner of the Atlantic, there’s crucial evidence of our oceans’ past and clues about their future. Paul Rose, Philippe Cousteau Jr., Dr. Lucy Blue and Tooni Mahto base themselves in the Bahamas. In one of its most dangerous dives, the team enters a black hole to discover what our oceans looked like 350 million years ago.

&FILMTELEVISION TELEVISION DESCRIPTIONS

THE OFFICE Paper sales are more fun than you might have imagined with the crew at Dunder-Mifﬂin. Led by goofball Michael Scott, the company weathers tough times, while romance blossoms between employees Jim Halpert and Pam Beasley. In this episode, an investment banker visits the Scranton, Pennsylvania, ofﬁce, putting everyone on edge.

PLAY ON JOHN John Cohen’s influence is felt throughout American folk music. Cohen is also a painter, documentary filmmaker, teacher and photographer. This is the story of his amazing body of work, featuring rare footage of Bob Dylan and interviews with Pete Seeger. Only showing on p.s. flights from Los Angeles and San Francisco to New York’s JFK Airport.

LAUGH

GET IN TOUCH

Like to plan ahead and know what’s playing before your flight? Text “MOVIE” to 75309 and you’ll get a reply with the current movies that are playing. If you really like to plan ahead, text “NEXT MOVIE” for next month’s movies. What do you think of our programming? We’re open to suggestions. Please send them to play@united.com or visit united.com/play.

EVERYBODY LOVES RAYMOND

LIFE [T] Witness the extraordinary things animals do to survive—such as hippos launching from the water into the air and chameleons stealing prey from a spider’s web. Sprint with cheetahs as they band together to tackle ostriches; watch dolphins form perfect rings of silt to trap ﬁsh; and swim with a seal escaping killer whales off Antarctica.

THE DOCTOR IS IN PLAY IF YOUR AIRCRAFT IS EQUIPPED with in-seat video, refer to the separate Play guide located in your seat pocket.

MAN V. FOOD Foodie Adam Richman travels the U.S. tasting different cities’ signature dishes and tackling eating challenges. In Los Angeles, he samples a french dip and chows down on roasted pork tortillas before facing the Special Number 2, a spicy ramen made with 10 chilies.

Relive the hit sitcom in which sportswriter Ray Romano and his wife, Debra, live across the street from Ray’s parents—the cantankerous Frank and nosy Marie. In this episode, Frank wants to pal around with Ray—immediately arousing suspicion and discomfort.

L et United PassPlus® point your business in the right direction. Participating airline partners include: ©2010 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Business can take you anywhere at a moment’s notice, so it’s important to exercise control over your travel. United PassPlus is a pre-paid travel program that entitles frequent travelers and businesses to: booking flights ® access ® elite memberships, and more Wherever you venture on business, United PassPlus can make your travels more affordable and rewarding. To learn more or to sign up, visit united.com/passplus .

&FILMTELEVISION B747 MAINSCREEN PROGRAMMING INTERNATIONAL LANGUAGE TRACKS (G) Die Aufflistungder Sprachen für ausgewählte Spielfilme finden Sie für die 747-400 Maschinen auf Kanal 2 für alle weiteren Maschinen auf Kanal 10. (J) 日本語の吹き替えはチャンネル10番でお聴きいただけます。（一部英語音声のみとなります。） (C) 在747-400型飞机上这些故事片的音频位于第 10频道. 在其他型号的飞机上位于第2频道 FILM TELEVISION FILMTELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILMTELEVISION FILM TELEVISION FILMFILMTELEVISIONTELEVISION If your aircraft is equipped with in-seat video, refer to the separate Play guide located in your seat pocket. CHINAJAPAN & HONG &THAILANDJAPAN–HONGVIETNAM–HONGSINGAPORE–KONGKONGKONGTAIWAN Extraordinary Measures (C) Invictus (J)(C) Crazy Heart (J) 聲聲相識 (C) *Me and Orson Welles (C) *East Coast/ORD only Brothers and Sisters [T] (J) Without a Trace [T][V] (J) Frasier (Flashback) [T] (J) Chuck [T][V] (C) The Mentalist [T][V] (C) Frasier (Flashback) [T] (C) The Blind Side [T] (C) ブラインド・サイド (J) Chuck [T][V] (C) The Mentalist [T][V] (C) Frasier (Flashback) [T] (C) Chuck [T][V] (C) / The Mentalist [T][V] (C) Frasier (Flashback) [T] (C) Dirty Jobs (C) Build It Bigger (C) Weird Connections (C) Talking Movies (J) Click (J) / The Real (J) Click (J) The Blind Side [T] (C) ブラインド・サイド (J) *Crazy Heart (J) 聲聲相識 (C) *Thailand flights only Talking Movies (J) Click (J) The Real (J) Click (J) Ho Chi Minh City to Hong Kong Up in the Air (J)(C) *The Young Victoria (J)(C) *Thailand flights only Chuck [T][V] (C) The Mentalist [T][V] (C) Frasier (Flashback) [T] (C) Talking Movies (J) Click (J) The Real (J) Click (J) Extraordinary Measures (C) Invictus (J)(C) Crazy Heart (J) 聲聲相識 (C) Me and Orson Welles (C) Leap Year (J)(C) The Last Station (C) The Young Victoria (J)(C) *Did You Hear About the Morgans? (C) 噂のモーガン夫妻 (J) *East Coast/ORD only Leap Year (J)(C) The Last Station (C) The Young Victoria (J)(C) Did You Hear About the Morgans? (C) 噂のモーガン夫妻 (J) Up in the Air (J)(C)Talking Movies (J) / Click (J) The R eal (J) / Click (J) Hong Kong to Ho Chi Minh City EASTBOUND WESTBOUND Chuck [T][V] Brothers and Sisters [T] (G) Two and a Half Men [T] Extraordinary Measures (G) Invictus (G) Crazy Heart (G) *Me and Orson Welles (G) *West Coast only The Good Wife [T] A Lion Called Christian The Middle [T] Leap Year (G) The Last Station (G) The Young Victoria (G) *Did You Hear About the Morgans? Haben sie das von den Morgans Gehoert? (G) *West Coast only Extraordinary Measures (G) Invictus (G) Crazy Heart (G) Me and Orson Welles (G) The Office [T] Oceans Sci Fi Science The Middle [T] Leap Year (G) The Last Station (G) The Young Victoria (G) Did You Hear About the Morgans? (G) Two and a Half Men [T] The Good Wife [T] The Simpsons [T] 30 Rock [T] AUSTRALIAGERMANY *Thailand flights only

1 hr. 45 min.

FEATURING Hugh Grant, Sarah Jessica Parker, Sam Elliott DIRECTED BY Marc Lawrence

FEATURING Sandra Bullock, Tim McGraw, Kathy Bates DIRECTED BY John Lee Hancock

FEATURING Jeff Bridges, Colin Farrell, Maggie Gyllenhaal DIRECTED BY Scott Cooper

FEATURING Christian McKay, Claire Danes, Zac Efron DIRECTED BY Kirk Jones

THE BLIND SIDE [T] The Blind Side depicts the true story of Michael Oher, a homeless youngster taken in by the Tuohys, a wellto-do family. Oher’s presence in the Tuohy’s lives leads them to some insightful self-discoveries, and Oher goes on to become an All-American offensive left tackle.

Based on real theatrical history, Me and Orson Welles is a romantic coming-of-age story about a teenage actor who lucks into a role in Julius Caesar as it’s being reimagined by a brilliant, impetuous young director named Orson Welles at his newly founded Mercury Theater in 1937 New York.

(S) Spanish (G) German (C) Chinese (J) Japanese [V] Violence [S] Sexual Situations [T] Adult Themes

115HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY 2010

Manhattan couple Meryl and Paul Morgan’s almost perfect lives have only one failure: their dissolving marriage. When the couple witnesses a murder, the Feds whisk them away to Wyoming. In their new BlackBerryfree lives, can the Morgans rekindle the passion?

UAL Corporation October 2009. Digital media loading occurs between the 25th and 5th of each month. As a result, please understand if your ﬂight features a different line up before and after the start of each month.

FEATURING George Clooney, Jason Bateman, Vera Farmiga DIRECTED BY Jason Reitman 1 hr. 49 min. 1 hr. 52 min.

1 hr. 54 min.

It’s 1837, and Victoria is the object of a royal power struggle. Her uncle, King William, is dying, and Victoria is in line for the throne. Everyone around Victoria—her mother, her adviser and her governess—smothers the queen-to-be and keeps her out of court. The ﬁlm follows her as she takes the throne, learns which advisers to trust and develops her famous romance with Prince Albert.

DID YOU HEAR ABOUT THE MORGANS?

An alcoholic country music singer is able to get his life and career back on track through his relationship with a female reporter, and he becomes a mentor to a contemporary country star at the peak of his career.

1 hr. 43 min.

ELECTRONIC EQUIPMENT/PERSONAL DEVICES United Airlines strives to make its customer experience safe and comfortable and accordingly has issued the following in regard to the use of electronic equipment/personal devices onboard its aircraft. However, the following is not a contract and does not create any legal rights or obligations. Certain electronic devices may not be used on our planes for safety reasons. Such devices may cause electromagnetic interference with cockpit navigation or communications systems during ground operations and while the aircraft is ﬂying below 10,000 feet. However, when an aircraft is traveling above 10,000 feet (normally about 10 minutes after takeoff), passengers can use many of the devices listed. Hearing aids, heart pacemakers and watches are acceptable at all times. These electronic devices can be used in the cabin, but may not be used during takeoff and landing: Calculators; handheld computer games; shavers; portable CD and tape players; laptop computers/ accessory printers/tape drives; portable VCRs/video players These electronic devices cannot be used on the airplane at any time: Cellular phones (cellular phones maybe used on the plane at the gate before the aircraft door is closed or at captain’s discretion when the plane is away from the gate and on the ground); televisions; AM/FM transmitters-receivers; remote-controlled toys

In addition, United Airlines has an onboard photography and video policy. Customers who bring personal audio and video equipment onboard may only use these items with headsets. Noise-canceling headsets may be activated. The use of still and video cameras, ﬁlm or digital, including any cellular or other devices that have this capability, is permitted only for recording of personal events. However, photography, audio or video recording of other customers without their express prior consent is strictly prohibited. Also, unauthorized photography, audio or video recording of airline personnel, aircraft equipment, or procedures is always prohibited. Any voice, audio, video or other photography (motion or still), recording or transmission while on any United Airlines aircraft is strictly prohibited, except to the extent speciﬁcally permitted by United Airlines.

2 hrs. 4 min.

FEATURING Emily Blunt, Rupert Friend, Paul Bettany DIRECTED BY Jean-Marc Vallee

ME AND ORSON WELLES

UP IN THE AIR Ryan Bingham is a corporate downsizing expert whose cherished life on the road is threatened just as he is on the cusp of reaching 10 million frequent ﬂyer miles and just after he’s met the frequenttraveler woman of his dreams.

CRAZY HEART

THE YOUNG VICTORIA

WIRELESS CHECK-IN

2. Receive your

and gate.

1. Go

2. Select

On qualifying flights within the U.S., you can now get your boarding pass on your mobile device. If mobile boarding pass is available for your flight, you’ll be prompted to enter your email address so we can send it to your phone. You’ll receive a link you can click on to display your boarding pass on the screen of your mobile device. You’ll be asked to scan your phone at the security checkpoint, and at the gate to board your flight. It’s an easier way to get through the airport. To learn more about United mobile boarding pass, and for a list of eligible airports, visit united.com/mobileservices

Now you can check in on the go, and have your boarding pass sent directly to your phone.

Introducing United mobile check-in and mobile boarding pass.

flight. HOW

PAPERLESS BOARDING PASS

WORKS. 1. Enter your email

mobile HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY 2010

HOW UNITED MOBILE CHECK-IN WORKS. to mobile.united.com the “Check-in” your UNITED MOBILE BOARDING PASS address. mobile at security checkpoint

boarding pass. 3. Scan pass

Enjoy the convenience of using your mobile device to check in for your flight. To check in on your phone, go to mobile.united.com and select “Check-in” from the list of options. You can use your Mileage Plus® number, your email address, your confirmation number or your E-ticket® number to bring up your reservation. From there you can check in, request upgrades, and purchase Travel Options for your flight. It’s like having a check-in kiosk in the palm of your hand. To learn more about United mobile check-in visit united.com/mobileservices.

option. 3. Check in for

PROGRAMMINGAUDIO XM RADIO AND UNITED offer a sampling of XM’s exclusive music channels for your inflight enjoyment. Find your aircraft model on the grid below and review the selections on the channel listing. Everything worth listening to is now on XM. 117HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY 2010 CH. Live communication between the flight deck and FAA air-traffic control is offered. As you listen, your flight will be identified by its flight number. This feature is unique to United and may not be available on all flights. Available at your captain’s discretion. 777 2-CABIN A319 & A320 SELECT A320 747757 & 767 2-CABIN 17161512111054321687913141819 MOVIE Dubbed MOVIE Dubbed MOVIE English From the Flight Deck Children’s Programming Adult Contemporary HitsAdult Contemporary Hits Adult Contemporary Hits Top 20 Hits MOVIE English MOVIE Dubbed MOVIE Dubbed Children’s Programming Adult Contemporary Hits From the Flight Deck Smooth Jazz MOVIE English Top 20 Hits From the Flight Deck New Age New Age Classic Rock Classic Rock New Alternative ’70s Hits ’70s Hits’70s Hits ’70s Hits ’70s Hits Children’s Programming Children’s Programming MOVIE English Top 20 Hits Adult Contemporary Hits Classical Pops Classical Pops Classical Pops Classical Pops Modern Adult Hits Modern Adult Hits Modern Adult Hits From the Flight Deck ’60s Hits ’60s Hits’60s Hits’60s Hits ’60s Hits MOVIE English Unavailable Unavailable Unavailable Top 20 Hits Top 20 Hits Blues Classical Pops From the Flight Deck ’80s Hits ’80s Hits New Country Hits New Country Hits Adult Album Rock Adult Album Rock Smooth Jazz Smooth Jazz Smooth Jazz Smooth Jazz Classic Soul Today’s R&B Hits Modern Adult Hits Modern Adult Hits New Country Hits Children’s Programming New Country Hits FROM THE FLIGHT DECK

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Boston Pops, Cincinnati P ops, Andrea Bocelli, James Galway, Joshua Bell, John Philip Sousa NEW AGE Spa is a plac e of peace in a sometimes crazy world. It’s a beautiful place where you are soothed by dreamy, ﬂowing music.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR U2, Dave Matthews Band, Neil Young, Coldplay SMOOTH JAZZ Watercolors plays the best contemporary jazz instrumentals, classic and new, blended with just the right vocals. It’s contemporary crossover that’s always cool.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Dave Koz, Diana Krall, George Benson, Sade, George Duke BLUES From the Delta, Chicago, New Orleans and more, B.B. King’s Bluesville covers more than 80 years of authentic blues.

PROGRAMMINGAUDIO CHANNELS & ARTISTS

ADULT CONTEMPORARY HITS

’70S HITS ’70s on 7 takes you back to the days of bell bottoms and pet rocks, when the music was wider than rocksinger-songwritersever—fromandclassictoR&Banddisco.

CHILDREN’S PROGRAMMING Kids Place Live recordingplusmoviemixcontentaward-winningfeaturesoriginalblendedwithamusicofthemostpopularkids’andTVsoundtracks,Children’sProgramming’sartists.

’60S HITS The times they were a-changin’, and so was the music. ’60s on 6 revisits the British invasion and Woodstock with DJ Cousin Brucie.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Michael Jackson, Dur an Duran, Cyndi Lauper, Prince, George Michael XM RADIO AND UNITED offer a sampling of XM’s exclusive music channels for your inﬂight enjoyment. Find your aircraft model on page 118 and review the selections on the channel listing. Everything worth listening to is now on XM.

The Blend is the soundtrack of your life—a great mix of Lite pop hits from the ’70s through today; never any rap or rock.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Daughtry, No Doubt, Colbie Caillat, Plain Whit e T’s

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Weezer, The Raconteurs, The Bravery, Foo Fighters, Death Cab for Cutie, Jimmy Eat World ADULT ALBUM ROCK New music and classic tracks from artists who’ve stood the test of time, plus quality rock from credible new artists.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Rod Stewart, Billy Joel, Madonna, Eric Clapton TODAY’S R&B HITS R&B Hits from the ‘80s, ‘90s and today. Sounds that reach your Heart & Soul.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Mary J. Blige, Alicia Keys, Charlie Wilson, Jill Scott, Maxwell

MODERN ADULT HITS It’ s the ’90s and now! Hear today’s pop hits from artists like Matchbox 20, Alanis Morissette, Maroon 5, Kelly Clarkson and John Mayer. Feel the Pulse of adult pop!

WHO YOU’LL HEAR James Brown, The Four Tops, Aretha Franklin, The Supremes

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Elton John, Donna Summer, The Eagles, Chicago, Fleetwood Mac CLASSIC ROCK Hold your ligh ters in the air. It’s all classic rock of the ’60s and ’70s, when music came on LPs. Drop the needle on Classic Vinyl.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR The Beatles, Beach Boys, Bob Dylan ’80S HITS “Totally awesome” ’80s on 8 sounds like one of the great Top 40 stations of the time, with rock, rhythm and pop—plus hair bands and the original MTV VJs.

CLASSIC SOUL Soul Town is a celebration of the Motown, Stax and Atlantic record labels—vintage soul and classic R&B from the 1960s and ’70s.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR B.B. King, Buddy Guy, Etta James, Muddy Waters TOP 20 HITS Top 20 on 20 plays just the songs you vote for. Cast your vote anytime at xmradio.com20on20.; then plug in and hear what’s hot.

NEW ALTERNATIVE The lat est alternative rock, best of the ’90s and the next big thing before it becomes so big you can’t stand it.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Black Eyed Peas, Taylor Swift, Lady Gaga, Beyoncé, Fall Out Boy

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Creedence Clearwater R evival, The Beatles, Pink Floyd, Lynyrd Skynyrd, Bad Company, Rolling Stones

WHO YOU’LL HEAR The Wiggles, Tom Chapin, Dan Zanes, They Might Be Giants

CLASSICAL POPS Lis ten to classical music’s greatest hits and famous movie music, performed by renowned orchestras and soloists, on SIRIUS XM Pops.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Enya, Brian Eno, Tangerine Dr eam, Kevin Braheny, Mark Isham, Suzanne Ciani

NEW COUNTRY HITS The Highway plays the very latest New Country, along with the biggest hits of the past few years.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Kenny Chesney, Taylor Swift, Carrie Underwood, Keith Urban, Rascal Flatts, Sugarland, Tim McGraw

United Mileage Plus members can enjoy all of our exclusive entertainment anywhere and earn 4,000 bonus United Mileage Plus miles.* Visit www.xmradio.com/ua for full details.

and

Get commercial-free music, live sports, news exclusive entertainment through your existing vehicle radio with easy Do-It-Yourself installation. To qualify for Mileage Plus miles on eligible you must buy a prepaid recurring minimum Quarterly subscription plan to any XM Package (excluding A La Carte, Mostly Music, and News, Talk & Sports), together with the eligible radio by 5/31/10. You must activate your XM subscription on that radio no later than 5/31/10 with a valid credit card; pay an activation fee of $14.99 and any other fees and taxes that will apply to your subscription, maintain at least 12 months of continuous service, and retain that credit card on the account for automatic recurring service billing. Failure to maintain 12 months of continuous “minimum service commitment” for each radio will result in a $75 early cancellation fee per radio. Service will automatically renew for additional periods of the same length as the Plan you choose, at the then current renewal rate unless you cancel. Hardware sold separately. This offer may be modiﬁed or terminated at any time. Pricing, programming, schedule, and channel assignments are subject to change. Check xmradio.com for the latest updates. Subscription governed by XM Customer Agreement available at xmradio.com, except that terms regarding an early termination fee for this offer shall supersede. SIRIUS|XM U.S. Satellite Service available only to those at least 18 years of age in the 48 contiguous USA and DC, with SIRIUS also available in PR (with coverage limitations) Allow 6-8 weeks after purchase for miles to be posted to member’s account. Miles accrued and awards issued are subject to the rules of the United Mileage Plus program. United, its subsidiaries, afﬁliates and agents are not responsible for any products and services of other participating companies and partners. Taxes and fees related to award travel are the responsibility of the passenger. United and Mileage Plus are registered service marks. For complete details about the Mileage Plus program, visit united.com.

© 2010 SIRIUS XM Radio Inc. SIRIUS, XM and all related marks and logos are trademarks of SIRIUS XM Radio Inc. and its subsidiaries. Apple, iPhone, iPod and iPod touch are registered trademarks of Apple Inc. All other marks, channel names and logos are the property of their respective owners. All rights reserved.

EARN 4,000 MILES

MUSIC · SPORTS · TALK · NEWS · ENTERTAINMENT EVERYTHING WORTH LISTENING TO IS ON *OFFER DETAILS:

29190

radios,

Portland Vancouver Seattle Boise San Jose Las Vegas LOS ANGELES San Diego SAN FRANCISCO Oakland DENVER Sacramento Salt Lake Phoenix/ScottsdaleTucsonCity Albuquerque Colorado Springs HoustonSan Antonio KansasWorthFortDallas/CityOmahaOklahomaAustinCity Bozeman Orange County Tulsa El Paso Honolulu Ontario Kahului MoinesMinneapoliDesSpringfiel Spokane WichitaLincoln Missoula Rapid City Reno/Tahoe CalgaryEdmonton Winnipeg Jackson Hole Kona 050100150 Miles 050100150200 Kilometers Burbank MontroseSpringsSteamboatHayden/ButteCrestedGunnison/Vail/Eagle Fargo Gillette Rock Springs CrescentEurekaCity AspenCarlsbadBakersfieldChico YellowstoneCody/ CasperFresnoEugene FallsSioux JunctionGrand Medford Pasco Palm Springs Santa Barbara InyokernImperial Monterey Oxnard San Luis SantaObispoMaria Yuma Modesto Redmond Redding Bismarck ArkansasNorthwest Great Falls Idaho Falls KalispellAnchorage Puerto Vallarta Los Cabos Mexico City Billings Victoria Helena FallsKlamath North Bend Saskatoon LakeMoses ReginaMidland/OdessaDurango HarlingenBrownsvilleCorpusChristiAlamosaLaramieScottsbluffChadronAllianceMcAllenLaredoPierreLiberalKearneyHuronMcCookDodgeCityGreatBendGardenCityHaysSalinaPuebloFarmingtonCortezTellurideLakePage/Powell Show Low Prescott Moab WorlandSheridan DickinsonMiles SidneyCityWillistonWolfGlasgowPoint Lewistown MercedVisalia Hilo Kapalua IslandGrand Vernal North Platte Cheyenne Riverton ROUTE MAPS NORTH AMERICAN CITIES United/United Express Route Cities served by United and United Express Cities served by Star Alliance or partner Code Share UNITED HUB Time zone boundary Route lines do not reﬂect actual ﬂight path

SpartanburgGreenville/WestOrlandoMiamiPalmBeachCharlestonSavannah Baltimore LouisvilleBirminghamMemphisMilwaukee Philadelphia St. Louis Tampa/St. Petersburg ClevelandCharlotte Detroit Jacksonville OrleansNew New York (La Guardia) (J.F. Norfolk/VirginiaKennedy)Beach Toronto Albany Atlanta Boston ColumbusColumbiaNashville RichmondRaleigh/Durham WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES) SpringfieldHartford/ Cincinnati ProvidencePortland Newark Greensboro/High Point/Winston-Salem LexingtonGrandRapids Ft.SyracuseLauderdale/HollywoodBuffalo/NiagaraFalls Knoxville Manchester Ft. Myers Indianapolis eapolis Dayton HarrisburgAllentown Madison Pittsburgh FoxAppleton/Cities Burlington IowaRapids/CedarCity Wausau WayneFt. Green Bay PlainsWhite LansingMidland/Saginaw Moline Rochester MishawakaBend/Elkhart/South gfield Charleston Traverse CityAkron/Canton CollegeStateWilkesScrantonBarre/Charlottesville Roanoke Springfield (Reagan National) San Juan Peoria AshevilleAugusta Halifax Ottawa Pensacola Tallahassee Myrtle Fayetteville/Ft.Beach Bragg GainesvilleHilton Head Island DecaturHuntsville/ JacksonvilleCorningIthaca/ Long Island/Islip New Bern Tri-Cities Regional BinghamtonWilmington 0 100200300400 Miles 0100200300400500600 Kilometers Newport News/Williamsburg Greenvillewestsas RockLittle Antigua Punta Cana St. Kitts Providenciales St. Lucia Cozumel Santo Domingo St. Thomas St. Maarten Montego Bay Altoona ParkersburgBeckleyJohnstownShenandoahValleyClarksburgMorgantown FreeportNassau Grand Cayman Hamilton London Duluth Chattanooga BiloxiGulfport/ Huntington New Haven Williamsport City JacksonMobileMontgomery NewburghSalisbury Ft. BeachWalton Florence PaducahMuskegon RougeBaton North Eleuthera Eau Claire Houghton Daytona Key West BurlingtonWaynesville 121HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY 2010

Sydney Brisbane CairnsPerthShanghaiBeijing San FranciscoFuzhouShenyangChengduChongqingGuangzhouShenzhen Los Angeles Queenstown Wellington Seattle Rarotonga Cook OsakaTokyoSendaiNagoyaHiroshima Okinawa Seoul Sapporo Fukuoka Hong Kong Delhi Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) Auckland Melbourne DunedinChristchurchNadi ApiaHonolulu Pusan BangkokHanoi Denver Dallas Singapore GuatemalSan Taipei Kota Kinabalu Phuket Komatsu Baotou Hangzhou Harbin WuhanNanjingQingdaoXiamen Ma Kuala Lumpur Kolkata Dalian Saipan Rotorua Edmonton Majuro Guam ROUTE MAPS INTERNATIONAL CITIES Service to Accra, Ghana begins June 20, 2010 United Route Code Share route serviced by a Star Alliance member Code Share route serviced by a United Partner Cities served by United, United Express and Code Share partners Time zone boundary

Philadelphia Miami NewArubaYorkBoston Frankfurt Washington,CityBelize DC Rio de Janeiro Copenhagen Chicago Newark Addis Ababa Paris Chennai (Madras) Tel Aviv Kuwait Lagos MunichJohannesburgHouston Accra MumbaiBangalore Rome Delhi Amman Alma-AtaAmsterdamCape Town Madrid Stockholm London Dubai Abu Dhabi Muscat Vienna Atlantallas Detroit WarsawShannon Buenos Aires temala City an Salvador Brussels CairoAsmara Bahrain Dakar Lisbon EastDurbanLondon Porto Hyderabad Orlando Tbilisi Port Elizabeth Lima TegucigalpaCuzcoSanPedroSulaManagua PeshawarLahoreIslamabadCochinColomboTrivandrumLiberia Doha Abuja Karachi Geneva CuritibaBrasilia Fortaleza Manaus PortoBeloAlegreSalvadorHorizonteIguassu Falls Recife Dublin Moscow Charlotte JeddahRiyadh Sal Istanbul Belfast Manchester BirminghamBristol EdinburghBarcelonaGlasgow OsloHamburgMilanBerlin PanamaMontrealCityTorontoOttawaSantiago Montevideo 123 Budapest LisbonPorto Turin Lyon Geneva LondonParis Oslo HamburgCopenhagen Brussels MilanFrankfurtHannoverNurembergVenicePisaRomeNaplesTrieste Istanbul Bucharest Kiev Vienna MunichPrague Warsaw Helsinki BerlinLuga Bremen GrazInnsbruck LinzKlagenfurtSalzburg Sofia Sarajevo Cologne Dresden Verona Vilnius Katowice MarseilleStuttgartNice Riga Stavanger Ancona Dublin BolognaFlorenceGenoa Stockholm Amsterdam Basel EdinburghAberdeen Belfast Birmingham Bergen Ankara Glasgow Manchester BelgradeSkopje ShannonCork AdanAntalya Izmir Leipzig HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY 2010

on United or one of the Star

Reservations 800-UNITED-1united.com (800-864-8331) Automated Flight Information 800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331) Mileage Plus 24-Hour Account Information & Award 800-UNITED-1united.com/mileageplusTravel(800-864-8331) Mileage Plus Visa Customer Service 800-537-7783united.com/chase Baggage Services 800-UNITED-1united.com/baggage(800-864-8331) Refunds 800-UNITED-1united.com/refunds(800-864-8331) TRAVEL ASSISTANCE FOR DELAYED OR CANCELED FLIGHTS

the terminal diagrams on pages 125–128 to plan

Flight

schedule.

At United Airlines, priority is safety and keeping an on-time On occasion, canceling or delaying a flight is the only option to assure maintain the highest safety standards. canceled? We automatically confirm you on the next United flight with available EasyCheck-in® units located in the concourse will assist you with information and a boarding pass—it will also help you standby for an earlier United flight if one is scheduled. If you want to travel standby and aren’t boarded, we will transfer your name to the next United flight to your destination until you are onboard.

What about my bag? Baggage is boarded on the next flight if space is available. This means your bags may arrive before you. United will secure the bag until you claim it. See a baggage claim representative. What if I have to stay overnight? If a flight is canceled to address a mechanical issue or another similar reason within our control, we Whether next flight is Alliance partners around the world, use your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps

INFORMATION & TERMINAL DIAGRAMS MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT.

your

our

show ticket counters, United Red Carpet Clubs and interterminal transportation. CONTACT INFORMATION Customer Relations 800-UNITED-1united.comEmail:united.com/customerrelationscustomerrelations@(800-864-8331) Red Carpet Club™ 520-881-0500866-UA-CLUBSunited.com/redcarpetclub(toll-free)(outsidethe U.S.) Hearing Impaired (TDD) 800-323-0170 Language Assistance (Asian) 800-426-5560 Reservaciones en Español 800-426-5561 United Cargo 800-UA-CARGOunitedcargo.com(800-822-2746) United Services unitedsvcs.com Meetings Plus 800-MEET-UAL (800-633-8825) Duty Free World 6095 NW 167th St. Suite D-4 Miami, FL 33015 USA 800-668-6182 United Vacations 800-32-TOURSunitedvacations.com(800-328-6877) Charter an Airplane united.com/charter Small Package Same Day Shipping Small Package Dispatch (SPD)— Airport-to-airport service: 800-722-5243 Employment Opportunities 888-UAL-JOBSunited.com/jobs(888-825-5627) EasyCheck-in kiosks are located on the concourse to assist customers who have experienced a misconnection or canceled flight. Customers who have e-tickets and are traveling domestically may use the kiosk to: 1. Rebook on another flight 2. Obtain a boarding pass 3. Standby for the next flight to their destination will provide you with a hotel and meal voucher. For uncontrollable events—such as weather—we may be able to help you locate a local hotel at a discounted rate; however United does not cover hotel or meal expenses in this event. If we can not retrieve your checked bag, overnight kits containing toiletries are available. Please see an agent. What if the reason for my travel no longer exists? If as a result of the delay or cancelation you decide not to travel, call United reservations (1-800 UNITED-1) to get information on your options. Help us help you keep informed. Sign up for EasyUpdate®, our messaging service. If your flight is canceled or delayed, EasyUpdate® will inform you. Enroll at united.com/easyupdate. At home? Go to united. com for information or to check-in and print your boarding pass. Your safety and satisfaction are important. We appreciate your business and apologize for any inconvenience you may have experienced. DOMESTIC

seats.

125HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY 2010 WASHINGTON / DULLES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.IAD Concourse A Concourse C Air Canada ConcourseConcourseD B SouthAustrianContinentalANAAirlinesSASAfricanAirwaysLufthansa MAIN TERMINAL Z GATES US Airways C2 C12 C18 C Connector Tunnel Train C24 C1A2A4A6 A14 A32 B37B79A1A3A5C9 C17 C27 D1D3D2 D8 D30 CHICAGO / O’HARE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.ORD TERMINALONE TERMINALTWO TERMINALTHREE Elevated Airport Transit System (ATS) PedestrianTunnel TERMINALFIVE InternationalArrivals Concourse F US Airways Concourse M Concourse E Air Canada Concourse B ContinentalLufthansa Concourse C ANA C1 B1 F1 F4 F11 F14 F10F6 E1 B6 B9 B18B14 B22 C17 C19 C18C24C32 C16 C8 Shuttle runs between Gates C9 and E3. E3 C9 United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Power Charging Station Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop / Train Stop United Easy Check-In Medical Center United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge International Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In United Easy Check-In

TERMINAL DIAGRAMS DOMESTIC & OVERSEAS DENVER INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.DEN 57 ★ TERMINALWEST TERMINALEAST Concourse C US Airways Concourse B Concourse A Air ContinentalCanadaLufthansa 2528261516 3736 35 41 3938 4950 60 80 919281 57 77 SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.SFO 72 Concourse G United Air New LufthansaANAZealandSingapore Concourse A Asiana Concourse B ContinentalUSAirways Concourse E Air CanadaConcourse F TERMINAL 1 TERMINAL 3 80798988 81 73International Terminal Secure Connector 76A78A 71 MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT. Whether your next ﬂight is on United or one of the Star Alliance partners around the world, use the terminal diagrams on pages 125–128 to plan your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters, United Red Carpet Clubs and interterminal transportation. TOM INTERNATIONALBRADLEYTERMINAL ThaiLufthansaAirwaysANASingaporeAsianaSwiss TERMINAL 3TERMINAL 2 Air Canada Air New Zealand TERMINAL 1 US Airways TERMINAL 4TERMINAL 5TERMINAL 6 Continental TERMINAL 7TERMINAL 8 67A69A 68B64 75A71A 7672 888070A 124B LOS ANGELES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.LAX United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Premier Check-In Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop United Easy Check-In United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite International Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Power Charging Station United Easy Check-In Medical Center United Gate InternationalAreaArrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Interterminal Train Stop United Easy Check-In

TERMINAL 4 TERMINAL 5 TERMINAL 3 TERMINAL 1 TERMINAL 2 37 39 43 56 50 4236 LONDON / HEATHROW INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTLHR 127HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY 2010 FRANKFURT INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTFRA B300-B303 B332-B340 TERMINAL ONE Pier A, Level 3 Gates A51-A65 Pier B Pier C C5 B20 B24 B26 B28 B48 B46 B44 C1 C7 C8 Pedestrian Transfer Tunnel Train to Terminal 2 Lufthansa Tower Lounge Level 5 TOKYO / NARITA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTNRT Satellite 3 Satellite Satellite2 1 Satellite 5 Satellite 4 TERMINAL 1 313743 47 38 32 North Wing South WingPedestrianTunnel Third Floor Zone A ZoneFourthD Floor United Gate Area United Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop United Gate InterterminalAreaTrain Stop Medical Center United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Premier Check-In Medical Center

TERMINAL DIAGRAMS STAR ALLIANCE United Gate Area United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite International Arrivals Suite United Premier Check-In Power Charging Station Interterminal Shuttle Bus Stop / Train Stop United Easy Check-In Medical Center US AIRWAYS HUBS CONTINENTAL HUBS CHARLOTTE DOUGLAS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTCLT PHOENIX SKY HARBOR INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTPHX PHILADELPHIA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTPHL CLEVELAND HOPKINS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTCLE B3C2 D2 D6 D10 D14 D17 D21 D25 D28 C7C14 C16C19 C22 C25 C29 C10 C4 Concourse C Continental Concourse B United Concourse A Concourse D Continental Pedestrian Tunnel NEWARK LIBERTY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORTEWR AirTrain AirTrain connects to Amtrack and New Jersey Transit. 130127136 102101115 72 887571 B3 B2 B1 A1A2 A3 80 98 92 TERMINAL A ContinentalUnited TERMINAL B TERMINAL C Continental HOUSTON GEORGE BUSH INTERCONTINENTAL AIRPORTIAH TerminaLink connects B, C, D and E. It is above ground transportation between terminals while inside security. TerminaLink Shuttle Bus TERMINAL A United TERMINAL B TERMINALS A-E Continental TERMINAL CTERMINAL E TERMINAL D A25-30A3-15A17-24 B76-83 B84-91 C34-42C14-23 E1-9 E10-14E15-24B68-75 B60-67 Concourse A United Concourse BConcourse C Concourse D ConcourseConcoursesE B-E US Airways 24 Continuous shuttle bus pickup and drop-off between Gates F10 and C16. Concourse A West Concourse A East Concourse BConcourse C Concourse D United Concourses A, B, C & F US Airways Concourse E Concourse F 1 7 13 To transfer between terminals, catch the interterminal bus curbside. Concourse A Concourse B Concourse B International TERMINAL 4 US Airways TERMINAL 2 United 7 1

STAR ALLIANCE PARTNERS

Aer Lingus Air HawaiianGreatEmiratesContinentalDolomitiConnectionLakesAirlines Island Air Jet TACAQatarAirwaysAirwaysGroup

EARN RECOGNITION AROUND THE WORLD The more miles you fly with United and the Star Alliance airlines, the higher your Mileage Plus elite status can be: Premier®, Premier Executive® or 1K®. Mileage Plus elite status is recognized across the alliance as either Star Alliance Silver or Star Alliance Gold, with travel benefits worldwide. See united.com/staralliance for the Star Silver and Star Gold benefits you can receive.

You can earn and redeem miles on many of our Regional Alliance Partners. See united.com/airlinepartners for speciﬁc information about each of our Regional Alliance Partners.

ENJOY A WORLD OF STAR ALLIANCE CONNECTIONS AND PRIVILEGES. On May 13, TAM Airlines becomes the newest member of the Star Alliance. TAM offers more than 750 daily ﬂights to destinations throughout South America, Europe and the United States.

129HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY 2010

With the largest airline alliance, you can earn miles almost anywhere in the world you fly. Miles can be earned on most fares on almost every Star Alliance flight and can be credited to your Mileage Plus account. Plus the flight miles you earn will count toward elite status in Mileage Plus. See united.com/airpartners for details.

ALLIANCES AND PARTNERSHIPS

STAR ALLIANCE Established in 1997 as the ﬁrst truly global airline alliance to offer customers a worldwide travel network that aims to provide customers a seamless travel experience across multiple airlines. Today the Star Alliance network offers more than 18,900 daily ﬂights to 983 destinations in 169 countries.

REGIONAL ALLIANCE PARTNERS

AWARD TRAVEL IS NOW EASIER With Star Alliance Awards, you can use your Mileage Plus miles for award travel on any Star Alliance carrier worldwide. Or use them for Star Alliance Upgrade Awards—upgrade to a premium cabin and travel in comfort (available on most Star Alliance airlines).

EARN MILEAGE PLUS® MILES AND ELITE STATUS FASTER

Effective May 13, 2010, TAM will become a Star Alliance member

SPANISH / ESPAÑOL

poisons, infectious substances NOTE There are special exceptions for small quantities of up to 70 oz. (2 kg or 2 liters) of medicinal and toilet articles carried in your luggage. For further information, check with any airline representative. IMPORT RESTRICTIONS Please note new controls on the import of meat, ﬁsh, plants and their products into the United Kingdom and European Union. Check the advisory notices displayed in the baggage hall for a detailed explanation of these restrictions. If you possess any of these items, please declare them to customs in the red channel to avoid legal consequences.

&CUSTOMSIMMIGRATION ENTRY CUSTOMSREGULATIONSDECLARATION ENGLISH All passengers (or one per family) are required to complete the Customs Declaration forms prior to arrival in the U.S. The forms will be distributed inflight and should include all personal data in English and in capital letters. Please ensure you sign your name. SPANISH/ESPAÑOL Todos los pasajeros (o uno por cada familia) tienen que llenar los formularios de Declaración de Aduanas antes de llegar a los EE.UU. Los formularios se distribuirán durante el veulo y deben incluir todos sus datos personales en inglés y con letras mayúsculas. No olvide firmar en el reverso del formulario. 1. Apellido, Nombre, Segundo nombre 2. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) 3. Cuántos familiares viajan con usted 4. (a) Dirección en los EE.UU. (nombre del hotel/lugar) (b) Ciudad, (c) Estado 5. Pasaporte expedido en (páis) 6. Número del pasaporte 7. País de residencia 8. Países que visitó durante este viaje antes de su llegada a los EE.UU. 9. Línea aérea/número de vuelo o nombre del barco 10. El propósito principal de este viaje es de negocios: Sí / No 11. Traigo (Traemos) (a) frutas, plantas, alimentos, insectos:Sí/No (b) carnes, animales, productos de animales o silvestres: Sí / No (c) agentes de enfermedades, cultivos celulares, caracoles:Sí / No (d) tierra o he (hemos) estado en finca/ granja/pastizales: Sí / No 12. He (Hemos) estado en cercanías de ganado (tocando o manipulándolo): Sí / No 13. Llevo (Llevamos) divisas o instrumentos monetarios por valor superior a $10,000 o su equivalente en moneda extranjera (Véase la definición de instrumentos monetarios alSídorso):/No 14. Tengo (Tenemos) mercancías comerciales (artículos para la venta, muestras para solicitar pedidos o bienes que no constituyen efectos personales):Sí/No 15. Residentes—el valor total de todos los bienes, incluidas las mercancías comerciales que he (hemos) comprado en el extranjero, (incluyendo regalos para otras personas, pero sin incluir los artículos enviados por correo a los EE.UU.) y que estoy (estamos) introduciendo en los EE.UU. es de: Visitantes—el$___ valor total de todos los artículos que permanecerán en los EE.UU., incluidas las mercancías comerciales, es de: $___ ENGLISH Prior to arrival in the U.S., all foreign nationals (except Canadian citizens and U.S. permanent residents or nationals of countries entitled to the Visa Waiver Program—see I-94W on next page) are required to complete an I-94 form. One form is required for each family member. Customers should complete all personal and travel-related information included on the front side of the form. Please do not write on the back side of the form. All information should be written in capital letters and in English. You are required to keep this form until your departure from the U.S. SPANISH / ESPAÑOL Antes de su llegada a los Estados Unidos, todos los ciudadanos extranjeros (excepto los ciudadanos de Canadá y los residentes permanentes en los Estados Unidos o ciudadanos de los países que tienen el Programa “Visa Waiver”—Ver formulario I-94W en hoja adjunta) tienen que llenar un formulario I-94. Hay que rellenar un formulario por cada miembro de la familia. Los pasajeros llenarán toda la información personal y relativa al viaje que se incluye en el anverso del formulario. Le rogamos que no escriba en el reverso del formulario. Toda la información debe estar escrita con letras mayúsculas y en inglés. Le rogamos que guarde este formulario hasta que salga de los Estados Unidos. 1. Apellido 2. Nombre 3. Fecha de (Día/Mes/Año)nacimiento 4. País de ciudadanía 5. Sexo (masculino o femenino) 6. Fecha de emisión del pasaporte 7. Fecha de vencimiento del pasaporte 8. Número de pasaporte 9. Aerolínea y número de vuelo 10. País donde vives 11. País en el que abordaron 12. Ciudad donde obtuvo el visado 13. Fecha del visado (Día/Mes/Año) 14. Direccion donde se quedará en los EE.UU (Número, calle) 15. Ciudad y Estado 16. Teléfono de contacto en EE.UU. 17. Dirección de correo electrónico 18. Apellido 19. Nombre 20. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) 21. Pais de ciudadanía ENGLISH Effective January 12, 2009, all passengers who intend to travel to the United States without a U.S. Visa under the terms of the Visa Waiver Program must obtain an electronic preauthorization or ESTA in advance of travel. When planning international travel, please be sure that you are in possession of all required documents. Remember to allow ample time for acquiring official travel documents. For complete information on the requirements, and to apply for ESTA, please visit www. cbp.gov/esta. HAZARDOUS MATERIALS The following items are considered hazardous materials. Do not pack in checked or carry-on luggage. FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS OR SOLIDS Fuel, paints, solvents, lighter fluid, matches WEAPONS Loaded firearms, ammunition, gunpowder, Mace, tear gas, pepper spray HOUSEHOLD ITEMS Drain cleaners and solvents COMPRESSED GASES Spray can, butane fuel, oxygen bottles FIREWORKS Firecrackers, sparklers or explosives OTHER HAZARDOUS MATERIALS Dry ice, gasoline-powered tools, camping equipment with fuel, wet cell batteries, oxidizers, corrosives, radioactive materials, DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection OMB No. 1651-0111 OMB No. 1651-0111 CBP Form I-94 (05/08) CBP Form I-94 (05/08) CBP Form I-94 (05/08) STAPLE HERESee Other Side Admission Number Arrival Record 000000000 00 Departure Record 000000000 00 1. Family Name 2. First (Given) Name 3. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY) 4. Country of Citizenship 5. Sex (Male or Female) 8. Passport Number 9. Airline and Flight Number 10. Country Where You Live 11. Country Where You Boarded 12. City Where Visa Was Issued 13. Date Issued (DD/MM/YY) 14. Address While in the United States (Number and Street) 16. Telephone Number in the U.S. Where You Can be Reached 17. Email Address 18. Family Name 19. First (Given) Name 20. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY) 21. Country of Citizenship DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection 15. City and State 6. Passport Issue Date (DD/MM/YY)7. Passport Expiration Date (DD/MM/YY) Welcome to the United States I-94 Arrival/Departure Record Instructions This form must be completed by all persons except U.S. Citizens, returning resident aliens, aliens with immigrant visas, and Canadian Citizens visiting or in transit. Type or print legibly with pen in ALL CAPITAL LETTERS. Use English. Do not write on the back of this form. This form is in two parts. Please complete both the Arrival Record (Items 1 through 17) and the Departure Record (Items 18 through 21). When all items are completed, present this form to the CBP Officer. Item 9 - If you are entering the United States by land, enter LAND in this space. If you are entering the United States by ship, enter SEA in this space. 5 U.S.C. § 552a(e)(3) Privacy Act Notice: Information collected on this form is required by Title 8 of the U.S. Code, including the INA (8 U.S.C. 1103, 1187), and CFR 235.1, 264, and 1235.1. The purposes for this collection are to give the terms of admission and document the arrival and departure of nonimmigrant aliens to the U.S. The information solicited on this form may be made available to other government agencies for law enforcement purposes or to assist DHS in determining your admissibility. All nonimmigrant aliens seeking admission to the U.S., unless otherwise exempted, must provide this information. Failure to provide this information may deny you entry to the United States and result in your removal. I-94 ARRIVAL / DEPARTURE RECORD

A partir del 12 de enero de 2009, todos los pasajeros que quieran viajar a los EE.UU. (entre los terminos del programa de no tener que usar la Visa) tendran que obtener una preautorización electronica o ESTA antes de viajar. Cuando estés coordinando viajes internacionales, este seguro que tenga todos los documentos requerídos. No se olvide de dejar tiempo suﬁciente para adquirir los documentos oﬁciales de viaje. Para información completa sobre todos los requisitos, y para aplicar para ESTA, por favor visite www.cbp.gov/esta.

HAZARDOUS MATERIALS NOTICE & IMPORT RESTRICTIONSELECTRONIC SYSTEM FOR TRAVEL AUTHORIZATION

11.

Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes No Yes No IMPORTANT: If you answered “Yes” to any of the above, please contact the American Embassy BEFORE you travel to the U.S. since you may be refused admission into the United States. Family Name (Please print) First Name Country of CitizenshipSignature Date

Eversion: With foot on ﬂoor, gently roll the sole of the foot inward. Repeat with other foot.

STAYING FIT: INFLIGHT FLEXIBILITY I-94 NONIMMIGRANT VISA WAIVER / FRONT I-94 NONIMMIGRANT VISA WAIVER / BACK 131HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | MAY 2010

Knee Flexion: Lift knee toward chest, decreasing the amount of joint space at back of the knee. Repeat with other leg.

DECLARACIÓN: Declaro que he leído y entendido todas las preguntas y enunciados enumerados en esta solicitud, y que las respuestas que he propocionado en este formulario son verdaderas y correctas a mi mejor saber y entender. on this form may be made available to other government agencies for law enforcement purposes or to assist DHS in determining admissibility. All nonimmigrant aliens seeking admission to the U.S., unless otherwise exempted, must provide this information. Failure to provide this information may deny you entry to the United States and result in your removal.

SPANISH / ESPAÑOL Antes de su llegada en los Estados Unidos, los ciudadanos extranjeros (excepto ciudadanos Canadienses y residentes permanentes de los Estados Unidos) que no tengan un visado de visita y se acojan al programa “Visa Waiver”, tienen que completar el formulario I-94W. Se requiere un formulario por cado miembro de familia. Los pasajeros deberán rellenar toda información tanto personal como relacionada con viajes en el anverso de la tarjeta. Por favor, asegúrese de contestar todas las preguntas , firmen y pongan la fecha en el lugar indicado en el formulario. Todos los pasajeros deben proporcionar una dirección en Estados Unidos para entrar al país. Los países que participan del Programa de exención de visas son los siguientes: Alemania. Andorra, Australia, Austria, Bélgica, Brunei, *Corea del Sur, Dinamarca, *Eslovaquia, Eslovenia, Espána, *Estonia, Finlandia, Francia, *Grecia, *Hungría, Irlanda, Islandia, Italia, Japón, *Letonia, Liechtenstein, * Lituania, Luxemburgo, *Malta, Mónaco, Noruega, Nueva Zelandia, Países Bajos, Portugal,*República Checa, San Marino, Singapur, Suecia, Suiza y el Reino*LosUnido.ciudadanos de estos países deben presentar un electrónicos (e-ppt) pasaporte para ser elegible para del Programa de exención de visas de Estados Unidos. Los ciudadanos de los demás países exentos de visas deben presentar un pasaporte de lectura electrónica en el marco del Programa de exención de visas de Estados Unidos a partir del 26 de octubre de 2004. Apellido 2. Nombre 3. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) Nacionalidad Sexo (varón/hembra) Fecha de emisión del pasaporte Fecha de vencimiento del pasaporte 8. Número de pasaporte 9. Aerolínea y número de vuelo 10. País de residencia País en el que abordó 12. Direccion donde se quedará en los EE.UU (Número, calle) 13. Ciudad y Estado 14. Teléfono de contacto en EE.UU. 15. Dirección de correo electrónico SPANISH / ESPAÑOL ¿Le afecta alguna de estas restricciones a usted? (Conteste Si o No) A. ¿Padece usted de alguna enfermedad contagiosa, deficiencia física o mental, o es adicto a las drogas? Sí / No B. ¿Ha sido usted arrestado o condenado por alguna infracción o delito de depravación moral; o por una violación relacionada con estupefacientes; arrestado o condenado por dos o más infracciones cuya sentencia total de reclusión fuera igual o superior a cinco años; ha sido traficante de estupefacientes, o pretende entrar en los Estados Unidos para realizar actividades criminales o inmorales? Sí / No C. ¿Ha estado o está implicado en actos de espionaje o sabotaje, actividades terroristas o genocidios; o participó de algún modo entre 1933 y 1945 en persecuciones relacionadas con la Alemania nazi o sus aliados? Sí / No D. ¿Tiene intención de trabajar en los Estados Unidos; ha sido excluido o deportado; o ha sido expulsado de los Estados Unidos, o ha obtenido o intentado obtener un visado o la entrada a los Estados Unidos por medios fraudulentos o dando información falsa? Sí / No E. ¿Ha detenido, retenido, o impedido la custodia de un niño que corresponda legalmente a un ciudadano de los Estados Unidos? Sí / No F. ¿Se le ha cancelado o denegado alguna vez el visado o la entrada en los Estados Unidos? En caso afirmitavo, especifique? Sí / No ¿Cúando? ¿Dónde? G. ¿Ha hecho valer alguna vez su inmunidad frente a un procesamiento? Sí / No IMPORTANTE: Si ha contestado afirmativamente alguna de las preguntas, comuníquese con la Embajada de los Estados Unidos ANTES de su viaje, ya que se le puede denegar la entrada en los Estados Unidos.

WAIVER OF RIGHTS: hereby waive any rights to review or appeal of a U.S. Customs and Border Protection officer’s determination as to my admissibility, or to contest, other than on the basis of an application for asylum, any action in deportation.

RENUNCIA DE DERECHOS: Por la presente renuncio el derecho a solicitar la revisión del Oﬁcial de Inmigración acerca de mi admisión en los Estados Unidos, o a apelarla, o a impugnar cualquier acto de deportación que no sea por razón de una solicitud de asilo.

Admission Number Government Use Only Departure Record VISA WAIVER 00000000000 Admission Number Arrival Record VISA WAIVER 6. Passport Issue Date (DD/MM/YY) 7. Passport Expiration Date (DD/MM/YY) Departure

FlightDate:Port: No./Ship Name: Paperwork Reduction Act Statement: An agency may not conduct or sponsor an information collection and person is not required to respond to this information unless it displays current valid OMB control number. The control number for this collection is 1651-0111. The estimated average time to complete this application is minutes per respondent. If you have any comments regarding the burden estimate you can write to U.S. Customs and Border Protection, Asset Management, 1300 Pennsylvania Avenue, NW, Washington DC 20229

Welcome to the United States I-94W Nonimmigrant Visa Waiver Arrival/Departure Record Instructions This form must be completed by every nonimmigrant visitor not in possession of a visitor’s visa, who is a national of one of the countries enumerated in 8 CFR 217. The airline can provide you with the current list of eligible countries. Type or print legibly with pen in ALL CAPITAL LETTERS. USE ENGLISH This form is in two parts. Please complete both the Arrival Record (Items 1 through 15) and the Departure Record (Items 18 through 21). The reverse side of this form must be signed and dated. Children under the age of fourteen must have their form signed by a parent or Itemguardian.9If you are entering the United States by land, enter LAND in this space. If you are entering the United States by ship, enter SEA in this space. Record

*Nationals of these countries must present an electronic (e-ppt) passport to be eligible for the U.S. Visa Waiver Program. Nationals of all Visa Waiver countries must present a machine-readable passport for the U.S. Visa Waiver Program.

Important – Retain this permit in your possession; you must surrender it when you leave the U.S. Failure to do so may delay your entry into the U.S. in the future. You are authorized to stay in the U.S. only until the date written on this form. To remain past this date, without permission from Department of Homeland Security authorities, is a violation of the law. Surrender this permit when you leave the U.S.: By sea or air, to the transportation line; Across the Canadian border, to Canadian Official; Across the Mexican border, to U.S. Official. Warning: You may not accept unauthorized employment; or attend school; or represent the foreign information media during your visit under this program. You are authorized to stay in the U.S. for 90 days or less. You may not apply for: 1) a change of nonimmigrant status; 2) adjustment of status to temporary or permanent resident, unless eligible under section 201(b) of the INA; or 3) an extension of stay. Violation of these terms will subject you to deportation. Any previous violation of this program, including having previously overstayed on this program without proper DHS authorization, will result in a finding of inadmissibility as outlined in Section 217 of the Immigration and Nationality Act.

CERTIFICATION: certify that have read and understand all the questions and statements on this form. The answers have furnished are true and correct to the best of my knowledge and belief.

Knee Extension: Straighten knee, increasing the amount of joint space at the back of the knee to its full range. Repeat with other leg.

Plantar Flexion: Lift the heel and keep toes pointed toward the ﬂoor, increasing the angle between the top of the foot and front of the leg. Repeat with other foot.

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection OMB No. 1651-0111 OMB No. 1651-0111 CBP Form I-94W (05/08) CBP Form I-94W (05/08) STAPLE HERESee Other Side 00000000000 1. Family Name 2. First (Given) Name 3. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY) 4. Country of Citizenship 5. Sex (Male or Female) 8. Passport Number 9. Airline and Flight Number 10. Country Where You Live 11. City Where You Boarded 12. Address While in the United States (Number and Street) 13. City and State 14. Telephone Number in the U.S. Where You Can be Reached 15. Email Address 18. Family Name 19. First (Given) Name 20. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY) 21. Country of Citizenship 5 U.S.C. 552a(e)(3) Privacy Act Notice: Information collected on this form is required by Title 8 of the U.S. Code, including the INA (8 U.S.C. 1103, 1187), and 8 CFR 235.1, 264, and 1235.1. The purposes for this collection are to give the terms of admission and document the arrival and departure of nonimmigrant aliens to the U.S. The information solicited

Do any of the following apply to you? (Answer Yes or No) Do you have communicable disease; physical or mental disorder, or are you drug abuser or addict? Have you ever been arrested or convicted for an offense or crime involving moral turpitude or a violation related to a controlled substance; or been arrested or convicted for two or more offenses for which the aggregate sentence to confinement was five years or more; or been controlled substance trafficker, or are you seeking entry to engage in criminal or immoral activities? Have you ever been or are you now involved in espionage or sabotage; or in terrorist activities; or genocide; or between 1933 and 1945 were involved, in any way, in persecutions associated with Nazi Germany or its allies? Are you seeking to work in the U.S.; or have ever been excluded and deported; or been previously removed from the United States; or procured or attempted to procure visa or entry into the U.S. by fraud or Havemisrepresentation?youeverdetained, retained or withheld custody of child from a U.S. citizen granted custody of the child? Have you ever been denied a U.S. visa or entry into the U.S. or had a U.S. visa cancelled? If yes, when? ______________________ where? _________________________ Have you ever asserted immunity from prosecution? Yes NoF.E.D.C.B.A.

your

Dorsiﬂexion: With heel on ﬂoor, point toes upward, decreasing the angle between the foot and front of the leg. Repeat with other foot.

Inversion: With foot on ﬂoor, gently roll the sole of the foot outward. Repeat with other foot.

ENGLISH Prior to arrival in the United States, foreign nationals (except Canadian citizens and U.S. permanent residents) who are not in possession of a visitors visa and are entitled to the Visa Waiver Program are required to complete the I-94W form. One form is required for each family member. Customers should complete all personal and travel-related information included on the front side of the card. Please ensure that you answer all questions and sign and date where indicated on the back side of this form. All customers must provide a U.S. address for Countriesentry.that are participants of the Visa Waiver Program are as follows: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, *Czech Republic, Denmark, *Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, *Greece, *Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, *Latvia, Liechtenstein, *Lithuania, Luxembourg, *Malta, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, *Slovakia, Slovenia, *South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, the United Kingdom.

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“Working with kids is a lot of fun—way better than a real job.

DANIEL CASAMASSINA / 20 WHY I’M TRAVELING / I’m heading home to Newark, New Jersey, for the summer. I have a job lined up as a counselor at a day camp. Working with kids is a lot of fun—way better than a real job. MY PREFLIGHT RITUAL / I take a picture out the window every time I ﬂy. I’ve probably taken about ﬁfty pictures. Every time it’s a little bit different. NEVER LEAVE HOME WITHOUT IT My skateboard. Whenever I can, I travel with my skateboard. I’m always scared it’ll break, so I never check it. It takes me a lot of time to get through security.

MAY1382010 | UNITED.COM

BY ADAM K. RAYMOND PHOTOGRAPH BY SPENCER HEYFRON GETTING TO KNOW YOU in transit ”

FRUIT AND YOGURT PARFAIT THAI CHICKEN WRAP

Low fat vanilla yogurt served with fruit and a side of granola.

SALAD

ABOARD!WELCOME

Your feedback is welcomed via ualsurvey.com w ithin seven days of your flight. United, Choice Menu, and EasyPurchase are trademarks of United. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. We apologize if your selection is not available on today’s ﬂight.

We are pleased to enhance your in-flight experience with Choice Menu options available for purchase on most North American flights, excluding . This month, we’ve streamlined our menu to make favorite products more accessible than ever. Savor a cocktail, indulge in a snack or save time by having your meal onboard. Should you opt to purchase an snackbox, United will donate $1.00 to support a critical cause-related organization. Thank you for flying United and please enjoy

Flavorful ham and swiss cheese on a croissant with dijonnaise sauce OVER 3.5 HOURS DEPARTING BEFORE 10 AM

$ 9

Grilled chicken, red and yellow bell pepper strips, shredded parmesan cheese on a bed of crisp romaine lettuce, served with classic caesar dressing and croutons on the side.

CROISSANT $ 5

CHEESE TRAY $ 6

PARFAIT $ 5

Specially selected cheeses including monterey jack, havarti dill and cheddar, dried cranberries, almonds and assorted Pepperidge Farm crackers.

ON FLIGHTS OVER 3.5 HOURS DEPARTING BETWEEN 10 AM -8 PM

Grilled chicken breast, romaine lettuce, julienned carrots, red and yellow bell pepper strips and Thai aioli sauce wrapped in a tortilla, accompanied by Kettle Classics potato chips. $ 9

Tender smoked turkey topped with crisp romaine lettuce and sundried tomato aioli sauce on multigrain brea d, accompanied by Kettle Classics WRAP $ 9

ON FLIGHTS

Beverage Service is available on most United ﬂights. While we try to ensure that you always receive your ﬁrst choice, actual selections may vary according to availability, class of service or destination. NON-ALCOHOLIC COMP LIMENTARY So ft Drinks PREMIUM ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES Complimentary in United Business ® and United First ® Priced as shown in United Economy. WINESDomestic flights only: Domestic United Business and United First ma y also choose: Refer to printed menus for additional selections where applicable. BEER, COCKTAILS, SPIRITS, LIQUEURS PREMIUMBEER COCKTAILS LIQUEURSSPIRITS rule, we may not serve alcohol to customers who appear intoxicated. Customers are limited to one alcoholic beverage at a time during service. Only alcohol provided by United and served by flight attendants may be consumed onboard. EasyPurchasePAYMENT Only credit/debit cards are accepted. CLASSIC $ 6 Kettle Backyard BBQ Chips Oreo Cookies Pepperidge Farm Goldfish Crackers Sparrer Bee f Salami Gourmet Cheddar Cheese Spread Pepperidge Farm Crackers LUXE Rondelé$Peppercorn Parmesan Cheese Spread Pepperidge Farm Crackers Food Should Taste Good Multigrain Tortilla Chips Wild Garden Hummus Dip Oloves Mediterranean or Real Torino Sesame Breadsticks Asher’s Dark Chocolate Pretzel EAT FOR GOOD $ $ ® Bumble Bee Chicken Salad Pepperidge Farm Crackers Kettle Classics Plain Chips High Energy Trail Mix Drink Mix Immaculate Baking Chocolate Chip Cookies Actual contents may vary slightly. SNACKBOXES AVAILABLE ALL DAY ON FLIGHTS OVER 2 HOURS BEVERAGES RELAX WITH YOUR FAVORITE DRINK

« Turn the page to enjoy

Our first stewardesses were all registered nurses who confidently eased customer apprehensions about flying. Much like today, they were safety experts, emergency responders, service professionals, mediators and counselors. While the title changed to flight attendant in 1972 as the profession opened to men as well as women, the “stewardship” of caring for our customers has never wavered.

This month we are celebrating a significant milestone –the 80-year anniversary of United’s flight attendant service.

Air travel has come a long way over the last 80 years. The Jet Age launched advancements beyond anything dreamed of by those early pioneers. Throughout our journey, flight attendants have taken on much greater roles in safety, security and service.

This month we are celebrating a significant milestone –the 80-year anniversary of United’s flight attendant service.

On behalf of the men and women who have proudly earned their United wings, thank you for sharing in this very special celebration. We are delighted to have you flying with us today.

The flight attendant profession continues to attract many individuals who are eager to make their living being of service in the sky. It’s a tough job that requires dedication, independence, quick-thinking to handle unusual situations, and the ability to start conversations with perfect strangers every day, every flight. It is my honor to support our flight attendants who’ve made it their profession to serve over 58 million customers each year.

ALEXANDRIA MARREN Senior Vice President Onboard Service

To learn more about United’s history, visit “About United” on united.com To learn more about United’s history, visit “About United” on united.com

Onboard Service To learn more about United’s history, visit “About United” on united.com

On May 15, 1930, the world’s first stewardesses took flight on a Boeing 80A, 20-hour flight with 13 stops between Oakland/San Francisco and Chicago. The original eight brave women were pioneers who paved the way for countless others to follow in their footsteps. They were instrumental in launching an era of enhanced travel experiences with the hallmark of safe and professional service. Our first stewardesses were all registered nurses who confidently eased customer apprehensions about flying. Much like today, they were safety experts, emergency responders, service professionals, mediators and counselors. While the title changed to flight attendant in 1972 as the profession opened to men as well as women, the “stewardship” of caring for our customers has never wavered.

ALEXANDRIA MARREN Senior Vice President

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Castle Connolly – America’s Top Doctors

John E. Sherman, MD 1016 Fifth Avenue New York, www.ShermanPlasticSurgery.com212-535-2300NY

DENVER Stacey N. Folk, MD 4545 East 9th www.FolkPlasticSurgery.com303-321-6608Denver,AvenueCO

Castle Connolly – America’s Top Doctors

The Metropolitan Institute for Plastic Surgery 2440 M Street NW, Washington, www.MetPlasticSurgery.com202-785-4187DC

James P. Anthony, MD 450 Sutter Street San Francisco, www.DrJamesAnthony.com415-395-7323CA

Castle Connolly – America’s Top Doctors

Each doctor has been peer-nominated and selected by the nation’s leading providers of information on top doctors. All doctors are board certiﬁed by the American Board of Plastic Surgery (ABPS).

Steven R. Cohen, MD 8899 University Center Lane San Diego, www.FacesPlus.com858-453-7224CA

Dr. Stacey N. Folk Denver, CO

WASHINGTON, DC Susan Early Otero, MD

NEW YORK

Steven Bloch, MD 1160 Park Avenue West Highland Park, www.BodyByBloch.com847-432-0840IL

CHICAGO

New York Magazine – Best Doctors Issue

SAN FRANCISCO

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THESE DOCTORS ARE AMONG THE INSURGEONSPLASTICBESTAMERICA

LOS ANGELES W. Grant Stevens, MD 4644 Lincoln Boulevard Marina Del Rey, www.DrGrantStevens.com877-289-1522CA

United Airlines Hemispheres Magazine May 2010

Articles inside

Industry In times of economic turmoil, gold remains the, er, gold

In Transit Who’s sitting next to you?

Food & Drink With Asian carp threatening to overtake the bayou, a Louisiana chef threatens to overtake the fi sh. Will diners care?

Sports With a Zen approach to putting and driving, Thailand is fast becoming a top golf destination.

Print Marlene Van Niekerk’s latest book, Agaat, offers an unfl inching look at modern South Africa.

Sound Rufus Wainwright keeps things simple on his latest album.

Vision Filmmaker Thomas Balmes talks about his adorable documentary, Babies.

Style London Mod mecca Carnaby Street celebrates its 50th birthday

Whereabouts Photographer Thomas Struth enjoys Tokyo’s sights.

Wheels Porsche cruises into the sedan market. // By Mike Guy

Tech Vringo puts it all on the line with new ring tone technology.

Notes From All Over

Comments

Goods

News Where to stay, what to see when to go.

Hero Bandleader Yoshio Toyama owes his career in jazz to the city of New Orleans. With the Wonderful World Jazz Foundation, he says thank you in a language everyone understands: music.

Connections Mobile check-in is easy and eco-friendly