United Airlines Hemispheres Magazine December 2013

DECEMBER 2013

Hemisphe heres

THREE PERFECT DAYS: COSTA RICA • ISLANDS SPECIAL • THE HEMI Q&A WITH JOHN GOODMAN

THREE PERFECT DAYS

COSTA RICA PLUS THE HEMI Q&A: JOHN GOODMAN ON COLLABORATING WITH THE COEN BROS THE FIRST BLIND PERSON TO SUMMIT MOUNT EVEREST BLAZES A NEW TRAIL HOW DJOKOVIC BEAT NADAL AND LOST HIS NO. 1 RANKING IN THE SAME TOURNAMENT

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THE ORIGINAL – THE LUGGAGE WITH THE GROOVES In 1950, RIMOWA issued the first suitcase with the unmistakable grooves. Since then, it has evolved into a cult object in its own right. To this day, the original RIMOWA luggage has lost none of its fascination. It remains the luggage of choice for all those who seek the extraordinary – including model Alessandra Ambrosio.

RIMOWA Stores North America: Honolulu, Beverly Hills, Las Vegas, Guam, San Francisco, Toronto www.rimowa.com

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SAN FRANCISCO

Shreve & Co Tel. + 1 415 860 4010

BERLIN KaDeWe Tel. + 49 30 21 01 65 80 Hotel Adlon Tel. + 49 30 20 45 52 88

HONG KONG

ifc Tel. + 852 25 40 10 28

LONDON: Boodles • BEIJING: China World Mall, Phase 3 • DUSSELDORF: Königsallee 60 • ZURICH: Beyer VIENNA: Am Graben 14 • TOKYO: Mikimoto • Wellendorff, Tel. (+49) 7231 – 28 40 128 • www.wellendorff.com

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Celebrating

120 Years

www.wellendorff.com

Genuine Values since 1893

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Come remember what freedom feels like. And forget that traffic jams and spreadsheets even exist. From this vantage point, you can see everything except limits.

Get the guide to America’s Best Skiing® at Colorado..co om

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AL ARGUETA

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D E C E M B E R

76 THE HEMI Q&A Actor John Goodman on Clooney, the Coen brothers and more

80 BLIND AMBITION Erik Weihenmayer, blind adventurer, shows us all what’s possible

86 ISLAND TREASURES The best things come from places you can only reach by bridge, boat or plane

WELCOME ABOARD CEO LETTER A word from Jeff Smisek

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VOICES A message to flyers

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CONNECTIONS What’s new at United

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THREE PERFECT DAYS: COSTA RICA Find paradise in the Central American rainforest

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • DECEMBER 2013

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YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY

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DISPATCHES News and notes from around the world

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CULTURE THE MONTH AHEAD

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What to read, watch and listen to in December

FOOD & DRINK

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How could bourbon get any better? Put it on a boat

STAY

43

From Paris to Istanbul, this month’s hottest hotels

TRAVEL ESSAY

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Staring a lion in the incisors can shift a traveler’s priorities

AUTO-TATION

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Avoiding Florida alligators in the Lexus LS 600h L

PACK LIST

DOWNLOAD OUR FREE APP FROM ITUNES OR GOOGLE PLAY

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Get the right gear for World Cup Ski Season

WEAR IN ... DUBAI

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Fashion tips from boutique owner Maha Abdul Rasheed

THE FAN

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Go inside the numbers of the ATP World Tour rankings

BRIGHT IDEAS

facebook.com/UnitedHemispheres edHemispheres

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Bringing the passenger pigeon back from extinction

INDUSTRY

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BENOIT PEVERELLI (KIKUCHI); CHINAFOTOPRESS VIA GETTY IMAGES (NADAL AND DJOKOVIC)

HOW IT’S DONE

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The man who gets those jingles stuck in your head

TECH

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An idea everyone should like: Facebook for scientists

29 ENTERTAINMENT AND INFORMATION Audio Programming, Movies, Television and Inflight Wi-Fi

133

Crossword and Sudoku

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Route Maps, Customs & Immigration, Our Fleet, Terminal Diagrams, Safety & Travel Assistance, MileagePlus and Alliances & Partnerships

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Food & Beverages

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ABOUT THE COVER: A close-up of the feathers of a Scarlet Macaw in Carrera National Park in Costa Rica. Corbis

!

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WRITE TO US: editorial@hemispheresmagazine.com 68 Jay St., Ste. 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201

DECEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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COLD COMFORT LOOKING AT THE LONG winter ahead leads many of us to start planning our next vacation—preferably to an island with palm trees and drinks served in hollowed-out fruits. But this month, Hemispheres brings the islands to you, with a twist: We visit islands all across the world, from Scotland to Singapore, to see what they’ve contributed to our everyday lives—the clothes we wear, the music we listen to and the sports we watch. Of course, Jamaican musicians and Dominican ballplayers aren’t the only icons in this issue. We also speak with John Goodman on the eve of the release of Inside Llewyn Davis, the latest collaboration between Goodman and the Coen brothers; and we traverse a Colorado mountain trail with Erik Weihenmayer, the first blind man to summit Mount Everest, who now uses his fame to help others with disabilities find their own adventures. Happy holidays, indeed. —The Editors

EDITOR IN CHIEF Jordan Heller EXECUTIVE EDITOR Chris Wright MANAGING EDITOR Justin Goldman SENIOR EDITOR Jacqueline Detwiler FASHION EDITOR Nino Bauti EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Erin Brady ART DIRECTOR Christos Hannides ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Claire Eckstrom PHOTO EDITOR Sam Polcer CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Jay Cheshes, Alyssa Giacobbe, Mike Guy, Michael Kaplan, Adam K. Raymond, Cristina Rouvalis, Matthew Shaer CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS

Christine Berrie, Peter James Field, Alex Nabaum, Peter Oumanski, James Provost, Steve Stankiewicz EXECUTIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Michael Keating Ink, 68 Jay St., Ste. 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 Tel: +1 347-294-1220 Fax: +1 917-591-6247 editorial@hemispheresmagazine.com hemispheresmagazine.com WEBMASTER Salah Lababidi ADVERTISING U.S. GROUP PUBLISHING DIRECTOR

YOU MAY NOW USE YOUR ELECTRONIC DEVICES! Download Hemispheres’ free app—for smartphone, iPad and Android tablet—and get every issue, plus special bonus features like additional stories, photos and video.

Stephen Andrews VP, STRATEGY AND BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Andrea Alexander VP, SPECIAL PROJECTS Carsten Morgan DIRECTOR, SPECIAL PROJECTS

Greg Caccavale NATIONAL ACCOUNT MANAGERS

Andrea Chase-Ward, Scott Stone, Anna Szpunar, Banu Yilmaz U.S. TERRITORY MANAGERS

Danny Litton, Jack Miller, Jeff Miller, Ryan Sadorf, Alison White HAWAII Nella Media Group EUROPE Kevin Rolfe ASIA Jacqueline Ho

CONTRIBUTORS

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Tel: +1 678-553-8091 PRODUCTION CONTROLLER

Stacy Willis REGIONAL CREDIT MANAGER

Christian Storer

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CRISTINA ROUVALIS is a freelance writer based in Pittsburgh and a former feature writer for the Pittsburgh Post-Gazette. Even though she was a failed elementary school violist, she jumped at the chance to interview Joel Beckerman of Man Made Music (page 67) about composing sonic logos and theme songs for commercials and TV shows. She was impressed by Beckerman’s pitchperfect humming.

C.F. PAYNE is an artist-illustrator and educator whose artwork has appeared on the covers of Time, Sports Illustrated, The New York Times Book Review, Mad magazine, The Atlantic and more. He has been commissioned to paint politicians, authors and entertainers and illustrate numerous children’s books.

He illustrated John Goodman—a rich subject for illustration if there ever was one—on page 76.

Ink (sales), Capital Building, 255 E. Paces Ferry Rd., Ste. 400, Atlanta, GA 30305 Tel: +1 888-864-1733 Fax: +1 917-591-6247 Ink CEO Jeffrey O’Rourke COO Hugh Godsal PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Simon Leslie HEMISPHERES is produced monthly by Ink. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions expressed in Hemispheres are not necessarily those of the Publisher or United Airlines, and United Airlines does not accept any responsibility for advertising content. Neither United, its subsidiaries nor affiliates guarantees the accuracy, completeness or timeliness of, or otherwise endorses these facts, views, opinions or recommendations, gives investment advice, or advocates the purchase or sale of any security or investment. You should always seek the assistance of a professional for tax and investment advice. Any images are supplied at the owner’s risk. Any mention of United Airlines or the use of United Airlines logo by any advertiser in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company or its products or services by United Airlines.

CORRECTION IN THE SEPTEMBER ISSUE, THE HEMISPHERES EDITORS ERRONEOUSLY STATED THAT DAVID EUSTACE WAS A FOUNDING MEMBER OF THE PHOTO AGENCY MAGNUM. WE APOLOGIZE FOR THE ERROR.

SHANE MCCAULEY (JAMAICA)

PETER KEOUGH is a contributor to the Boston Globe and was the film editor of the Boston Phoenix. He is also the editor of Flesh and Blood: The National Society of Film Critics on Sex, Violence, and Censorship and Kathryn Bigelow Interviews. For his story on page 25, he risked a dollar to find out if Gerald Peary, who plays a chessmaster in the Andrew Bujalski indie hit Computer Chess, could match moves with a real life pro.

DECEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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Not every

guardian angel has wings.

This holiday, give a Garmin nüvi to someone you love and give years of guidance, assistance and the security of never being alone, all from the most trusted name in GPS navigation. ®

Find the perfect nüvi at Garmin.com/nuvi

©2013 Garmin Ltd. or its subsidiaries

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02/10/2013 09:43

CEO LETTER

The World’s Leading Network

W

elcome aboard, and thanks for flying United.

Throughout this past year, we continued to build the world’s leading airline by focusing on providing solid operational reliability, great customer service and a modern, competitive product for our customers. We also focused on creating economic value for our shareholders and creating a great place for our employees to work.

We made a lot of progress for our customers, our employees and our shareholders this past year, and will continue our investments to ensure you have the best travel experience possible.

We know it’s important for us to provide you with safe, reliable and customerfriendly air travel to the destinations where you want to go.

By the end of the year, we’ll have launched 14 new international and 19 new domestic routes, including the addition of seven new cities to our already industryleading route network.

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Looking ahead to 2014, we will add even more new routes to destinations across the globe. From our San Francisco hub, we will launch nonstop service to Chengdu, China, beginning in June, subject to government approval. We will fly our new Boeing 787 Dreamliners on this exciting new route. Chengdu will be the ninth nonstop destination United serves in the Asia/Pacific region from our powerhouse San Francisco gateway.

We offer more nonstop trans-Pacific flights from the U.S. than any other carrier—nearly twice as many as any other airline from any West Coast city.

Also from our SFO hub, we’ve applied to the U.S. Department of Transportation for authority to provide daily nonstop service to Haneda Airport in downtown Tokyo. Additionally, we will begin service from SFO to Taipei in March and to Atlanta in the spring.

From our Chicago hub, our customers enjoyed the new nonstop route to Shannon, Ireland, that we launched this year, and

we’ll begin nonstop service from Chicago to Edinburgh, Scotland, in May. Be on the lookout next year for other new routes that we’ll fly. If there’s a place in the world where we don’t fly that you want to go to, then generally our Star Alliance partners can get you there. United is a founding member of Star Alliance, the world’s largest airline alliance, which provides service to 195 countries via 28 member airlines.

Thanks again for choosing to fly the friendly skies today. We appreciate your business and hope to see you on board again soon.

CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD, PRESIDENT AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER, UNITED AIRLINES

DECEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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VOICES

Upwardly Mobile Jacob Guerra and his team bring old-fashioned customer service to the industry’s newest endeavor.

BY A. AVERYL RE

J

acob Guerra sounds like a typical guy in many ways. “I’ve always loved the airlines,” he says. “I was one of those people who like to watch the planes take off at the airport. And one of the things I like about working for an airline is that, any interest you have, there’s always a place for you.”

As senior manager of retail systems for United, Guerra has found atypical ways to use his love of the airlines for the good of customers. He works on the eCommerce team, enabling customers to buy and personalize their travel using channels such as united.com, the airline’s mobile apps and airport kiosks. There are two

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prongs to eCommerce’s function: the aesthetic of those channels and the computer systems that make those channels come alive for customers.

“My team works to give customers the best flight options and the tools to have a great experience when buying tickets electronically from United. Then we focus on whether or not we have consistency.

Whether you’re on your iPhone, on the website or on the phone to our contact center, we want you to have consistency across the board.”

Guerra grew up in South Texas, earned a degree in Economics from the University

of Texas at Austin, then headed straight to the airline, where he worked in revenue management for a year before moving to eCommerce four years ago. He says he finds his current position to be continuously challenging and interesting.

“ECommerce is one of the most rapidly changing aspects of our industry—or of any industry,” he says. “Customers expect us to be on the cu ing edge, offering them the best tools so they can get the best bang for their buck.”

The numbers bear this statement out.

In the five years Guerra has been with the airline, the percentage of tickets sold or redeemed through eCommerce has grown by 33 percent. And it’s not just purchases that draw customers online. The number of check-ins completed through eCommerce channels has grown by 29 percent since 2011. In fact, due to the growth of smartphone usage, check-ins through the mobile channel have grown by more than 300 percent in the past three years.

“Customers say we’re the best in the industry in the way we enable them to redeem miles online to shop for travel,” Guerra says. “With us, customers can buy a ticket or redeem an award with more than 30 MileagePlus partners. We’re constantly looking at how we can improve that experience. Our mantra is, if you want to go anywhere in the world, we want to make sure you can buy that ticket on united.com or our mobile app and that the process goes smoothly.”

To that end, Guerra and his colleagues have totally revamped the online shopping experience for United’s customers.

“We’re a collaborative group by nature,” he says. “We don’t work in cubes. We have long tables.” And that convivial collaboration pays off. When he’s not helping provide customers with tools to firm up their travel plans, Guerra likes to take to the air himself. “I like to go discover different cultures and find out how people live. Every year at New Year’s, I go to a different place to see how they ring in their new year.”

So far, he has celebrated the new year in Sydney, Bangkok, Madrid and Amsterdam.

Where does he hope to welcome 2014?

“That depends upon which flight has an empty seat,” he says. “Berlin is on the short list. There’s also Scotland. I hear Edinburgh does a great new year.”

DECEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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CONNECTIONS ASK THE PILOT

With Captain Mike Bowers

Q: Typically, within a minute or two after take-off, the pilots reduce the speed of the aircraft before accelerating again. What is the reasoning for that quick but short-lived deceleration?

An Electrifying Makeover IF YOU LIKE a bit of tech in your travels, you may have noticed that our digital channels have a completely new look and interactive experience, with our simplified airport check-in kiosks and a comprehensive mobile app update for Apple iOS 7 devices. With the updated kiosk screens and the new app, the way you access your travel information is more user-friendly, relevant and intuitive.

Throughout the app design process, we used feedback from customers like you, along with employee input, to improve features such as booking, f light status confi rmation, check-in and account information. For example, the United “travel cards” shortcuts let you pin boarding passes, fl ight notifications, your MileagePlus card and other important information to the

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app’s home screen, making them accessible at any time. Also, the upgraded “wallet”—at the top right corner of the home screen— and MileagePlus features take you to a comprehensive view of your interactions with United.

Look for these updates soon to our Android, Blackberry 10 and Windows 8 apps as well.

A nd, coming soon to a computer or tablet near you, perhaps even to one sitting on your tray table, you’ll start to see a new united.com and new tools rolling out.

Whether you’re buying a ticket, checking in or accessing travel information on the go, you’ll fi nd new tools to make every aspect of your experience more f lyer-friendly.

—JENNIFER A. BAKER

A: What you sense is actually a reduction in engine power, not speed, although reduced acceleration may make it feel as if the plane is slowing. We require less power once safely airborne than we do to take off. Once we reach a safe altitude (800 feet above the ground in most cases), we reduce the power slightly to reduce the noise.

That reduced power is sufficient to allow us to continue to accelerate and climb. Once we are high enough above the ground so that noise is no longer an issue, we increase the power again.

Do you have a question for Captain Bowers?

You can write to him at askthepilot@united.com.

DECEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

06/11/2013 15:05

‘It’s always worth exploring the cobbled streets of Beacon Hill, known locally as Antiques Row.’ Marc Simoneau, Chief Concierge InterContinental Boston

Find it now via our iPad App.

The InterContinental Concierge Service will inspire and assist your perfect experience, wherever you choose to go.

“Concierge Guide” online Concierge iPad App “Insider knowledge” guides

Do you live an InterContinental life?

Concierge Lounge Over 150 destination videos

visit intercontinental.com © 2013 InterContinental Hotels Group PLC. All Rights Reserved. Most hotels are independently owned and/or operated.

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DISPATCHES NEWS AND NOTES FROM AROUND THE WORLD

YULE TUBE Like candy canes and family arguments, Christmas specials are unavoidable this time of year. Between the Home Alones and the ubiquitous yule log, you can’t flip between bowl games without hi ing a half dozen of them. On the 30th anniversary of A Christmas Story, we compiled a few holiday movie facts—which, if nothing else, will serve as a good way to change the subject when your great aunt starts insulting your latest significant other. —JACQUELINE DETWILER Now considered a timeless classic, A Charlie Brown Christmas Special was actually a rush job. Charles Schulz wrote the outline in a single day; it was animated and voiced in a matter of months.

The lyrics to “Christmas Time Is Here,” the track that plays during the opening skating scene, were written by the movie’s producer, Lee Mendelson, in just 10 minutes.

In order to make 1980s Cleveland look like 1940s Hammond, Ind., set designers for A Christmas Story borrowed antique cars from a local auto club. The drivers were instructed to follow a specific route in circles until told to stop.

Then each car was pressure washed and parked under Cleveland’s Terminal Tower to prevent damage from road salt.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • DECEMBER 2013

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“You’re a Mean One, Mr. Grinch,” the most famous song from the 1966 TV movie How the Grinch Stole Christmas!, was sung by Thurl Ravenscroft, the voice behind Kellogg’s Tony the Tiger (“They’re Grrrreat!”).

Ravenscroft’s name was inadvertently left off the credits, however, so Dr. Seuss sent letters to major U.S. newspaper columnists to tell them who the singer was.

Frank Capra III, an assistant director of 1989’s National Lampoon’s Christmas Vacation, is the grandson of Frank Capra, who directed It’s a Wonderful Life. Capra III included several homages to the classic in Christmas Vacation, including having Clark Griswold saw off the top of his newel post with a chainsaw. A loose newel post was a prominent feature in It’s a Wonderful Life.

The California Raisins ads were notably effective, but the wrinkly R&B ensemble didn’t reach pop icon status until they covered The Temptations’ “Rudolph the Red-nosed Reindeer” on the Emmywinning A Claymation Christmas Celebration in 1987. “The Simpsons” spoofed the performance 16 years later, when the “California Prunes” sang “Oh Pruny Night.”

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Hidden Oasis.

Around every corner a new adventure. Down every path, a new discovery.

Find your oasis.

visitgreaterpalmsprings.com palm springs • desert hot springs • cathedral city • rancho mirage • palm desert • indian wells • la quinta • indio • coachella

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25/10/2013 12:44

DISPATCHES

BERLIN

SO RETRO

The vintage clothing trend goes to extremes in the German capital

BY BOYD FARROW

IT’S NO SURPRISE THAT Berlin, one of Europe’s most fashionable destinations, has plugged into the vintage clothing craze. But the trend has reached new heights at Fein und Ripp, a retailer on trendy Kastanienallee, which tends to stock items from the 1870s rather than the 1970s, and where the look is more Prussia than Prada.

One mannequin here is attired in a three-piece suit handmade from a roll of linen more than a century old. Top sellers include a surprisingly fetching gray 1930s prisoner suit— one of thousands owner Joachim Pianka discovered in a Swedish government depot—and a collection of 1920s Henley T-shirts liberated from a vault in the Swabian Alps.

Pianka cannot say how many of the T-shirts he has in stock. They were

among a 45-ton consignment of clothing he agreed to buy three years ago. As his eye-rolling son Marlon pours coffee, Pianka explains that at the time of the purchase he wasn’t even in retail.

Back then he was a travel agent, irritated that the clothes he favored were getting harder to come by. His midlife-crisis–fueled research led him to the old Merz b. Schwanen factory in southern Germany, where he found the late owner’s sons keen to offload stock dating back almost a century. “I had turned 48 and was thinking of doing something new with my life,” he says. “So on impulse I bought the lot.”

Today, Fein und Ripp has a clutter of stock from all over Europe, mainly from tiny labels that have endured for generations. These firms, recently in

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • DECEMBER 2013• ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER OUMANSKI

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danger of extinction, are now sought out by legions of hip workwear enthusiasts, who come to Pianka’s shop to buy denim as tough as chainmail, flannel shirts as thick as blankets and near-indestructible boots.

This summer, the store began altering items to sell under its own label—a new brochure features the owner and his two strapping sons modeling the clothes. “This is a family business,” Pianka says, “just like many of the old ones we have helped revive.”

Pianka admits that he cannot resist taking in consignments—this week, he received 700 mail bags from the 1950s—even though there is enough stock in his Kreuzberg warehouse to last his lifetime.

“Enough to last my lifetime,” murmurs Marlon.

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25/10/2013 12:40

DISPATCHES CAMBRIDGE, MASS.

LIGHTS, CAMERA, CHECKMATE A CHESS PLAYER IN THE MOVIES TRIES THE GAME IN REAL LIFE Gerald Peary was winning. After not playing a game of chess in 53 years, the film critic had visibly rattled Dmitri, the taciturn Russian master who plies his trade at the Au Bon Pain outdoor café across the street from Harvard Yard. Emboldened, Peary sent his queen into the fray, and Dmitri was in retreat.

As Peary put it later, “The Feeling” had returned.

Strictly speaking, Peary, 69, has played chess recently, but only in a movie—Andrew Bujalski’s comedic indie darling Computer Chess.

Acting is another talent Peary let lie fallow—he hadn’t done any in more than 40 years. Still, he got good reviews. The Boston Globe described

NEW YORK

STARRY, STARRY NIGHT At the opening of the new Hugo Boss flagship store, the stars come in all shapes and sizes A small multicolor splotch appears on each of the three massive video screens suspended from the ceiling of the Time Warner Center in New York City.

Usually, the multistory atrium here affords commanding views of Columbus Circle and Central Park, but the looming overhead triptych has mostly obscured that—presenting instead a stylized version of the world beyond the windows.

Gradually the splotches grow, resolving into pointillist images of

his portrayal of a 1980s chess master as “delightfully played.” Surely taking up the game again would be no more difficult than acting.

So it was that Peary agreed to challenge the 70-something Dmitri, who looked daunting in his army fatigues emblazoned with the logos of automotive products, and whose reputation as a shock-and-awe chess player was equally disconcerting. But he charged only $2 a game, and then only if he won.

A small audience of tourists, locals and students gathered to watch.

Peary recalled some tactics and strategy, but he was not clear on the “pin” and the “fork.” The latter did him in. Cocky from his promising start,

pedestrians, cars, trees, cityscape and sky, all generated using a laser mapping tool called Lidar (light + radar). “That is so cool,” says a slim, well-heeled blonde perched on tiptoe nearby, craning her neck to see.

The installation, by the artist Marco Brambilla, is titled “Anthropocene”—a term used to describe the current geological age, in which, as never before, big planetary shi s are being driven by a single species (us). Pre y heavy stuff, you might think, for the christening of a fashion outlet.

“We’ve been thinking about how best to represent Hugo Boss in Manha an for several years,” says CEO Mark Brashear of tonight’s event, which is celebrating the grand opening of the company’s new flagship store here.

he overlooked Dmitri’s knight, which suddenly, fatally, pronged both his queen and rook.

Even though he lost the game, that heroic thrust early on, that whiff of victory, had rekindled a spark in the former high school chess club president. “There are moves in chess that are given two exclamation points,” he said, handing the Russian his cash. “I had a moment like that in this game. It’s almost erotic. It’s the power of chess.” —PETER KEOUGH

Among those standing transfixed by the screens are Woody Allen and SoonYi Previn, Natalie Suarez and new father Josh Duhamel, who has an incongruous infant onesie (a gi perhaps?) draped across his tuxedo-suited shoulders.

For the most part, the a ention of the beautifully a ired, champagnesipping guests is fixed not on each other but on the screens. “The fact that people are being ‘transported’ into the park makes the work successful, I think,” Brambilla says.

Yet even the artist himself has to grant that the highlight of his evening is not the world premiere of his new work.

What is it?

“Meeting Woody Allen for the first time,” Brambilla sheepishly admits.

—HUNTER R. SLATON

THE GREAT WAIL OF CHINA EVEN FOR LOCALS, BEIJING OPERA CAN BE A CHALLENGE BEIJING • “Tonight we will see a living

treasure!” announces our guide, Bao Chui. He is referring to Beijing Opera, an arcane theatrical form that combines costume, dance, mime and martial arts in a flurry of action that delights audiences.

The music, however, is another ma er.

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To the Western ear in particular, the rising and falling atonal counterrhythms used by the performers—described by one listener as “singsong baby talk”— can be jarring. It is not uncommon for tourists to get up and leave during a performance.

A er tonight’s show, in which flying wizards did battle with dragons and saved a beautiful princess, Bao furtively provides his own take on the ancient tradition. “It’s sort of like fingernails on a chalkboard to me,” he says. “I prefer Bruce Lee movies.” —JAMES MICHAEL DORSEY

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DISPATCHES PARIS

A SHOW OF LOVE IN THE CITY OF LIGHT, EVEN SHAM WEDDINGS ARE ROMANTIC Sun Green, like pretty much every other person who comes to Paris, is looking for romance. The owner of an online fashion boutique in South Korea, Green is here with her fiancé Ryuji Maehara; it’s the last getaway they’ll have together before their spring wedding.

Like many lovers, they’ve crossed the Pont des Arts. They’ve taken in the view from Montmartre. And, of course, they’ve done the Eiffel Tower. But

Green has discovered another, less conventional way to satisfy her romantic cravings. Almost every night this week, she has headed down to Place de la Concorde to watch one of the city’s newest, and oddest, rituals: the Chinese Weddings.

Every evening at around the same time, as the sun starts to dip behind the rooftops of the ChampsÉlysées, Chinese women in

great white gowns, bejeweled like princesses, can be seen here posing beside grooms in silk suits. Vows are exchanged beside one of the Maritime Navigation fountains; undying love is sworn beneath the Obelisk of Luxor.

These nightly ceremonies, however, are not what they seem. “They’re not

really getting married, you see,” says Green, delighted.

“It’s all for show.”

The weddings are, indeed, an elaborate, orchestrated sham. The outfits are rented by the day, the photographers by the hour, so that the happy couples might commemorate their time in the most romantic city on Earth. The photos are simply something to show the folks back home.

“It’s lovely, don’t you think?” Green says, watching the fake brides kiss their fake grooms, bouquets of cerise-and-rose colored blooms clutched to their chests. “Like a fairy tale.”

—HANNAH STUART-LEACH

THE GREATEST SNEAKER EVER SOLD AN ANNUAL TRADITION, BY THE NUMBERS Every holiday season, there is a great rejoicing across the land, particularly those bits of land occupied by people who place too much emphasis on sneakers. And this year is no different, as the restyled edition of the Air Jordan XI, the XII, is loosed upon the Earth this month. The new shoe’s name is

AIR JORDANS MADE UP 58 PERCENT OF ALL BASKETBALL SHOES BOUGHT IN THE U.S. LAST YEAR.

IN 2012, THE AIR JORDAN BRAND GENERATED $2.5 BILLION GLOBALLY.

—BEN THORNTON-HARWOOD

INCLUDING METAL ATTACHÉ CASE AND INTERACTIVE CD, THE 2002 AIR JORDAN XVII CAME WITH A PRICE TAG OF $200.

WITHIN TWO MONTHS OF THEIR ARRIVAL ON THE MARKET, AIR JORDAN SALES HAD TOPPED $70 MILLION.

ACCORDING TO FORBES, AIR JORDAN REVENUES CURRENTLY HELP MICHAEL JORDAN RAKE IN $80 MILLION A YEAR.

HOLD A PAIR OF XXI’S UNDER A BLACK LIGHT AND A CRYPTIC MESSAGE APPEARS (“FOR IT SHALL BE WITHIN THE FOUR STAGE JOURNEY…”)

IN 2012, A PRISTINE PAIR OF AIR JORDAN XI BLACKOUTS WAS SOLD ON EBAY FOR $11,267.

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A 1992 BUGS BUNNY AD CAMPAIGN FOR AIR JORDAN (“HARE JORDAN”) EMPLOYED 25 ARTISTS FOR SIX MONTHS AND COST IN THE REGION OF $1 MILLION TO MAKE (NOT INCLUDING MICHAEL JORDAN’S FEE).

BECAUSE THE ORIGINAL BLACK-AND-RED AIR JORDANS VIOLATED NBA RULES ABOUT SNEAKER COLORS, JORDAN WAS FINED $5,000 (MERE POCKET CHANGE FOR HIS AIRNESS) EVERY TIME HE PLAYED IN THEM.

INFOGRAPHIC: CLAIRE ECKSTROM

WHEN INITIALLY RELEASED BY NIKE IN MARCH 1985, A PAIR OF AIR JORDANS WOULD SET YOU BACK $65 ($141 TODAY), AN UNHEARD OF AMOUNT FOR SNEAKERS AT THE TIME.

Gamma Blue, and it is indeed a wondrous thing to behold, with its wobbly strip of black patent leather and its lumpy sole. With Air Jordan about to enter its 30th year, we take a closer look at the Shoe That Would Be King.

DECEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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culture ARTS

MEDIA

EVENTS

THE MONTH AHEAD

The End of Selling Out The career of Britart icon Tracey Emin takes an unexpected turn in Miami Miami is ge ing a double dose of Tracey Emin this month. Starting December 4, the edgier-than-thou Britart icon displays her neon work in “Tracey Emin: Angel Without You” at the Museum of Contemporary Art, North Miami.

Her creations are also on show—and for sale—at the Fontainebleau Hotel during Art Basel Miami Beach, which opens a day later. This is where things start to get weird. Emin might have made art world waves in the past by exhibiting an unmade bed and a tent filled with the names of former lovers, but surely nobody expected her to go full corporate. In Miami, she’s flogging “luxurious artist edition double-size beach towels” (pictured above) for $95 apiece, as well as pairs of artist edition flip-flops ($40), which are said to leave an imprint of her famous work “I Kiss You” in the sand. The Damien Hirst “happy meal,” surely, cannot be far behind.

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Crossed Words “Hated to death, say.”* Anyone who’s agonized over a clue like this (answer below) will be familiar with the work of Will Shortz. The veteran New York Times crossword editor, who provides the foreword to John Halpern’s new history, Centenary of the Crossword, is so steeped in the form you wouldn’t be surprised to hear that his first words were “One across.” Below, Shortz shares some of the stuff he’s learned in his history with the puzzle. —ERIN BRADY 1

THERE’S NO ‘I’ IN KYRGYZSTAN

“The easiest words to work into a crossword are short ones with lots of vowels—like ale, area and opera. The hardest words are the long ones with lots of consonants. The Superman villain Mister Mxyzptlk would be a bear to include—although it's been done.”

AIM FOR THE PUNNY BONE

“The themes that make me laugh the most are often ones with puns. In a recent puzzle gently poking fun at how people in Boston speak, the clue ‘A “Star Trek” officer and a physician are going to board a plane?’ led to the answer ‘Spocks will fly’; ‘Where frogs shop?’ was ‘Hopper’s bazaar.’” @&#! IS NOT THE ANSWER

“Crosswords are meant to entertain, so I avoid anything overly graphic, obscene or offensive. On the other hand, I think crosswords have a reputation of being prim and proper, which I dislike, so I'm not extreme in banning words. I try to follow ordinary good taste.” (Dec. 1)

Hot Properties Meet the handsome brothers adding sex appeal to television’s home improvement genre IF YOU WERE to list the qualities needed to become a television hear hrob, you probably wouldn’t pick “Handy with a nail gun” or “Good with escrow.” But as their HGTV show “Buying & Selling” enters its second season this month, Canadian-born twins Jonathan (le ) and Drew Sco (right) are poised to continue the unlikely project of making home improvement sexy.

“We’ve had a lot of work done,” jokes Jonathan, adding that the twins’ public appearances can resemble Justin Bieber concerts.

Of course, it doesn’t hurt that Jonathan and Drew are dropdead gorgeous, but it’s still a bit of a mystery how a trio

of real estate shows—they also host “Property Brothers” and “Brother vs. Brother”—have had fans swooning in 40 countries.

Once they start talking, though, their appeal becomes easier to understand.

It's not just the twins’ ability to convert a drab laundry room into a fabulous den that draws people in, or even their good looks—it’s the droll, brotherly chitchat.

“Drew sat on my head for nine months in the womb, so we’re pre y close,” says a jaunty Jonathan, discussing their rapport.

“Jonathan is fairly simple," quips the ebullient Drew, on the duo’s tendency to finish each other’s sentences, “so it’s easy to guess what he’s going to say.” —CHRIS WRIGHT (Dec. 4)

*ANSWER: “ANAGRAM.” (IT’S A TOUGH ONE, WE KNOW.) HGTV (“PROPERTY BROTHERS”); MARCUS & INDRANI (MARY J. BLIGE)

Pop Psalms Like eggnog, holiday music has a tendency to divide people rather than unite them. For every lover of “Frosty the Snowman” there’s an equally ardent hater. Here, a few selections from this year’s crop, in order of their potential for controversy.

A Mary Christmas, Mary J. Blige

Wrapped in Red, Kelly Clarkson

Duck the Halls: A Robertson Family Christmas

Produced by David Foster (the guy behind Celine Dion and Michael Bublé’s best-selling seasonals), Blige presents a collection of soul-infused classics featuring contributions from Barbra Streisand, Jessie J and Marc Anthony.

It’s a reimagining that manages to stay true to the old favorites. Hard to imagine how anyone could object t0 this one.

Given her wholesome image, we were surprised to learn that this is Clarkson’s first holiday record. Belting out a combination of original tracks and the usual holiday fare, the “American Idol” winner’s vocal range manages to shine throughout, although some may find the album conventional, bordering on dull.

Though the promo video for this album promises, “Nothing says Christmas more than big, hairy men in Santa hats,” we’re not quite sure what to make of Duck the Halls. Down home and deep fried, this record sees the reality TV show family (and guests) performing originals along with twangy classics. Reliably weird.

Ho-ho-whoa! rating (out of 10): 1

Ho-ho-whoa! rating: 3

Ho-ho-whoa! rating: 7

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25/10/2013 12:46

culture || THE MONTH AHEAD

Time Plots All right, Hollywood movie execs, we get it: The ’60s and ’70s were cool. The parties, the hustlers, and would you look at those outfits?

This month’s slate of movies based on true stories from the hippiedisco era makes us want to hop in a time machine and set the dial to “Age of Aquarius.” Although we might pack be er pants.

Saving Mr. Banks

Inside Llewyn Davis

American Hustle

Plot: We’re in the early 1960s. Mary Poppins author Pamela Travers (Emma Thompson) is reluctant to sell her story rights to Walt Disney (Tom Hanks) so that he can make a musical version starring Julie Andrews. He seeks to change her mind by ... taking her on a merry-go-round?

It’s unclear.

Plot: Trying to make it as a musician in 1960s Greenwich Village is a struggle made strugglier with the addition of the Coen brothers’ trademark grit.

Llewyn Davis (Oscar Isaac), loosely based on real life also-ran Dave Van Ronk, tries to get a record deal during the Bob Dylan era, ticking off everyone he knows in the process.

Plot: David O. Russell’s latest underworldian odyssey is set in 1970s New Jersey, where an unorthodox FBI agent (Bradley Cooper) recruits a charismatic con man (Christian Bale) to help him uncover political corruption. Amy Adams and Jennifer Lawrence assist in a costume designer’s wish list of couture furs and pantsuits.

How much we want to go back: 5/10. Frankly, today’s Disneyland is such a time warp that we could probably make a visit to early ’60s California happen without using theoretical physics. However, if we’ll get to hang out with Thompson’s extraordinarily sassy Travers, we’ll hop in the transporter immediately.

How much we want to go back: 2/10. While hanging out with Dylan to a soundtrack shaped by T Bone Burne would fulfill our folk rock dreams, this looks hard.

And cold. Depends on whether we can get our hands on a Gore-Tex coat.

And how good we get to be at guitar.

How much we want to go back: 10/10. This movie makes the 1970s look so fun, Saturday Night Fever should be embarrassed. We’d happily spend the ’80s in prison in exchange for an hour at a pool party with Cooper and Bale’s architecturally triumphant beards.

Killer Tracks Depravity gets the la-di-da treatment with a musical version of American Psycho There have been a few odd subjects for musicals over the years: Charles Darwin, Jerry Springer, Barack Obama. We’ve had musical adaptations of The Lord of the Rings and The Adventures of Huckleberry Finn.

In February, a musical version of The Bridges of Madison County debuts on Broadway, while a Tim Rice version of From Here to Eternity has opened in London.

Where will it end?

The Almeida Theatre may have found the answer to that question. This month, the trendy north London venue debuts the musical version of American Psycho, based on the grisly 1991 novel by Bret Easton Ellis (and the 2000 movie starring Christian Bale).

The story’s serial killer, Patrick Bateman, will be played by “Doctor Who” star Matt Smith, while Duncan Sheik (he of the aptly named 1996 single “Barely Breathing”) writes the songs. It’s hard to imagine how they’ll shoehorn the depraved antics of Bateman into lyrical form, but we do know that Ellis’ character is a fan of Huey Lewis & the News, and that the production will have “an ’80s feel.” It seems reasonable to assume, then, that we’ll get a variation or two on the Huey Lewis oeuvre—say, “The Heart of Rock & Roll Is Still Beating (Which Is More Than Can Be Said for Yours).” (Dec. 14)

“Though the statisticians would have rounded d his .39955 average up to .400, and though he could have sat out the last two games, Ted knew that history wouldn’t look kindly on that option, so it was really no option at all.”

—-From The Kid: The Immortal Life of Ted Williams, Ben Bradlee, Jr.’s biography y of the great Boston Red Sox outfielder and Korean War fighter pilot. (Dec. 3)

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Tokyo Rising Despite an Oscar nomination and a couple of plum Hollywood roles, Rinko Kikuchi has the right to remain silent RINKO KIKUCHI was hardly a household name when she landed a role in the 2006 drama Babel, with a cast that included Brad Pi and Cate Blanche . Prior to that film, Kikuchi was known mainly for her work in her native Japan, if she was known at all. And then something remarkable happened.

Kikuchi’s performance as a woman who is deaf and cannot speak in Babel garnered her an Academy Award nomination, the first time this had happened for a Japanese actress in a half century. Suddenly, Kikuchi was in great demand.

“I was really honored to be nominated, and very happy,” she says. “A er that, I received a lot of offers for roles in every country.” But Kikuchi hadn’t exactly fallen into her good fortune. In the year leading up to Babel, she was a regular visitor at institutes for the deaf, where she learned sign language and got to know people with the disability.

No ma er what kind of film she’s in, Kikuchi Her modest and shy persona: immerses herself in a role. Even in Pacific Rim, “I’m just really calm. Maybe it’s in which she helps fight off alien invaders, she where I’m from.” received praise for the emotional nuance of her Working with Keanu Reeves: performance. “Guillermo [del Toro, the film’s direc“He was really focused on the tor,] stayed with me,” she says, reluctant to accept role. He ate lots of healthy food.” too much praise. “He gave me a lot of ideas.”

This month, Kikuchi’s ability to mine a part for Being an accomplished gold will be tested again, as she stars alongside samurai sword fighter: “When I was a child, I loved samurai Keanu Reeves in the samurai romp 47 Ronin. In this movies. So my father taught me one, she plays a villain, which is a bit of a stretch, to use the katana sword.” given her pleasant manner and—it must be said— extraordinarily sweet face.

On her personal style: “It was really fun,” she says. “I’ve never done “Sometimes I’ll wear something anything like this before, this kind of witch.” When punk rock, another time something elegant or sweet. asked what aspects of her own character she had It depends on what kind of to plumb to get to the heart of the role, Kikuchi mood I’m in.” laughs. “I think maybe I have some diva stuff, deep down inside.” —CHRIS WRIGHT (Dec. 25)

Kikuchi On…

BENOIT PEVERELLI

TV TV Land unveils its new Kirstie Alley vehicle, “Kirstie,” co-starring former “Cheers” regular Rhea Perlman, former “Seinfeld” star Michael Richards and someone named Eric Petersen MOVIES Will Ferrell, Steve Carell, Paul Rudd and David Koechner lampoon idiot newsmen again in Anchorman 2: The Legend Continues BOOKS Author Eric Van Lustbader beats the Jason Bourne dead horse once more with Robert Ludlum’s The Bourne Retribution MUSIC The Britney Spears revival continues apace with a new residency at Las Vegas’ Planet Hollywood and a new album in the same month: Oops! … She did it again

A L S O

O U T

T H I S

M O N T H

culture || THE MONTH AHEAD

DECEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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Atacama Field Chronograph Series No. 1945: 45mm, black PVD steel case, screw case back and screw down crown, antireective sapphire crystal, water resistant to 100 meters, alarm feature, golden tan distressed leather strap with black PVD buckle, and Luminox self-powered illumination. Swiss Made.

Preferred timepiece of automotive enthusiasts.

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FOOD & DRINK

OVER A BARREL Trey Zoeller, founder and master blender of Jefferson’s Bourbon

CAPE COD, MASS.

SEA CHANGE

Bourbon pioneer Trey Zoeller rocks the boat

BY LEAH KOENIG

“MY GRANDMOTHER NEVER asked, ‘What do you want to drink?’ but ‘How do you take your whiskey?’” says Trey Zoeller, founder of Jefferson’s Bourbon. He’s standing in the boiler room of a 126-foot ship that’s bobbing several miles off the coast of Cape Cod. Before him stand four waisthigh barrels of bourbon. Zoeller, power drill in hand and industrial-size pitcher at the ready, is breaking into one of them.

A descendent of a Kentucky moonshiner and the son of bourbon scholar

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Chet Zoeller, Trey joined the family business in 1997 with the launch of Jefferson’s and quickly made a name for himself in the rapidly expanding artisanal whiskey market. But it was five years ago, while having birthday drinks with his friend and former high school classmate Chris Fischer—who heads Ocearch, a research organization focused on the health of the oceans—that Zoeller had a potentially industry-changing idea. “Chris was about to leave for a voyage and I thought, ‘How

incredible would it be to age some of our bourbon on his ship?’” Zoeller says.

Distilled bourbon gets its mahogany hue and caramel flavor from years of aging in charred white oak barrels. While sloshing around on the high seas, Zoeller reasoned, the bourbon would encounter more of the barrels’ surface, which might accelerate the maturation process. He also suspected the salty ocean air and fluctuating temperatures could impact the bourbon’s flavor for the be er.

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Fischer—whose team catches 2,500pound great white sharks, tags them with tracking devices, then releases them— humored his buddy, agreeing to stow five barrels on his research vessel. Two barrels burst during the ensuing expeditions, but three and a half years later, about 300 bo les’ worth of bourbon emerged exactly as Zoeller hoped: aged well beyond its years. It was high-octane and “nearly molasses colored,” he says, and had a lush, spicy flavor and a whisper of salinity.

Named Jefferson’s Ocean, the micro run of the well-traveled booze sold out immediately.

Zoeller is currently hard at work replicating the experiment. Earlier this year he replenished Fischer’s ship with four barrels of four-year-aged whiskey, including the one he successfully tapped on board today. Proceeds from these sales will support Ocearch’s work.

Zoeller also loaded 72 barrels on a container ship that crossed the Equator four times over the course of six months to make enough whiskey for a larger release. When round two of Jefferson’s Ocean is released to the public in early 2014, bourbon swillers around the globe will have the chance to te s t o u t their sea legs.

Mea nwh i le , Zoeller has big, boozy plans for the future. “This stuff is so good, I eventually want to have a bourbonfilled ship out sailing at all times,” he says.

BOARDING PASS While you’re on the quest for the perfect artisanal spirits, whether in Kentucky, Oregon, California, Massachusetts or wherever boutique distilleries offer a chance to sample their goods, count on United to get you on your way. When booking your flight, consider Economy Plus seating. You’ll savor more room to relax and recline, and you’ll be seated near the front of the cabin, so you can exit the plane quicker at your destination. To see detailed schedule information or to book your flight, go to united.com.

COOL IT! Altar’s 1912 cocktail at Frost Ice Bar

PREMIUM BLEND The latest cocktail additive is store-bought but still trendy If there was a victim of the bespoke cocktail movement, it was clearly ’80s-style neon sour mix, which was ushered straight off the shelves and into the trash can to make room for housemade tinctures and infusions. But this also le room for a new generation of store-bought, apothecary-style mixers, such as Q tonic, Fee Brothers celery bi ers and Modmix’s new organic lemon and lavender mix, which all hark back to the origins of the cocktail.

The latest of these are Altar’s Herbal Martinis, which are blends of teas, herbs, juices and flavorings that have popped up everywhere from hotel bars to trendy grocery stores. Here, mixologist Troy Clarke of Boston’s Frost Ice Bar mixes up his 1912 cocktail, which blends Altar’s “Chi” mixer (made of cherry, ginger, hyssop, sumac, green tea, astragalus, kola nut, ginseng and juniper) with refreshing cucumber vodka and spicy ginger beer for a summery drink, regardless of season. —ERIN BRADY

1912 › 2 oz. Altar Chi › 1 oz. Crop organic cucumber vodka

› 1 oz. ginger liqueur › Ginger beer to taste

› Blend Chi, vodka and ginger liqueur in a shaker with ice.

Strain into a martini glass and top with ginger beer.

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NEW

FUJIFILM, FUJINON and ENGINEERED TO INSPIRE are trademarks of FUJIFILM Corporation and its affiliates. © 2013 FUJIFILM North America Corporation and its affiliates. All rights reserved.

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culture || FOOD & DRINK

THE SPICE IS RIGHT WHEN IT COMES to Chinese food in America, cartons of sugary sesame chicken and heavily sauced noodles have started to take a backseat to cuisine from China’s heartland, the Sichuan province, where the most famous flavor is neither sweet nor salty nor even umami, but notoriously, hellishly spicy.

“American palates are moving away from the sweet styles of [Chinese] cooking,” says Peter Chang, a Sichuan chef best known for his habit of working at random Chinese restaurants all over the South, then abruptly quitting and disappearing, a tic so prominent that it was documented by Calvin Trillin in The New Yorker in 2010.

But with the Sichuan craze gaining steam in the U.S.—perhaps most notably at the New York City and San Francisco hotspots Mission Chinese Food—Chang has resurfaced with a trio of eponymous eateries between Charlo esville and Williamsburg, Va., with a new one scheduled to open in Virginia Beach by the end of the year.

Good Sichuan, says Chang, boils down to a single ingredient: “Sichuan peppercorns activate parts of the mouth that no other spice does, opening the taste buds up to more intense flavors.”

By this, Chang means that the peppercorns aren’t exactly spicy, at least not in the way a chili pepper is. They produce a sensation called ma la in Mandarin. “Ma refers to the numbing sensation Sichuan peppercorns have on the palate,” says Chang. “La refers to peppers’ spiciness.”

The resulting dishes taste much like eating something incredibly hot a er a few shots of Novocaine—a flavor you won’t get from a carton of lo mein. —SALLY KOHN

Who Moved My Cheese?

Hotel restaurants bring the stinky stuff out of the kitchen and into the cave For quite some time, restaurants that wanted to dial up the class would roll a cart bedecked with expensive cheeses past your table sometime between the meat course and dessert. But lately, spots like Caprice at the Four Seasons Hotel in Hong Kong, NoMI Kitchen at the Park Hyatt in Chicago and TOCA at the Ritz-Carlton in Toronto have gone in a more permanent direction, installing cheese caves that protect their roqueforts and parmesans and also allow diners to get up from their tables and have a look. Caprice, which boasts three Michelin stars, is home to the first cheese cave in Hong Kong. TOCA’s glass-walled cave, meanwhile, cost the hotel about $250,000—which would buy only about 20 batches of the very, very pricey cheeses you’ll find inside. —JACQUELINE DETWILER

SHUTTERSTOCK (PEPPERCORNS); THE WASHINGTON POST/GETTY IMAGES (CHANG); KATIE NOBLE (CRANE’S CREST)

For celebrity chef Peter Chang, it’s all about the peppercorns

DRESSING FOR SUCCESS On the trail of the world’s most elusive salad topping “We sold to the Gores until their divorce; we still sell to the Bushes,” says Sam Perry, owner of Crane Crest Real French Dressing. We know what you’re thinking—dressing? Really?

But Crane Crest uses a secret recipe passed down from Gordon Crane, a World War II soldier who developed it while stationed in Paris. It’s not homogenized, and it is mostly oil, with a sludge of secret spices that settle at the bottom. It’s sold in select small stores,

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CAVE IN Above: a cheesemonger at the Ritz-Carlton; below: five varieties of cheese at the Four Seasons

but Perry has refused offers from Williams-Sonoma, Dean & DeLuca and L.L. Bean to carry it. Mostly, the financial adviser–by-day works on the dressing at night, picking it up at a local production facility, checking his voicemail for phone orders and shipping the $4.50 jars with an invoice.

Payment is on the honor system. If you live in the area, near Chestnut Hill, Mass., he might even leave your dressing by his front door to save you on shipping. Cynics scoff, but Perry insists he’s had only three people stiff him. “They know if they don’t pay us, they can’t get more,” he says. —ALLISON WEISS ENTREKIN

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©2013 Bose Corporation. The distinctive design of the headphone oval ring is a trademark of Bose Corporation. Financing, savings and MileagePlus award miles offer not to be combined with other offers or applied to previous purchases, and subject to change without notice. Mileage Plus award miles offer valid 10/1/13-12/31/13. Savings offer valid 11/24/13-1/4/14. Purchasers must use the phone number or website above to receive this offer. Risk-free refers to 30-day trial only, requires product purchase and does not include return shipping. Delivery is subject to product availability. Miles accrued, awards, and benefits issued are subject to change and are subject to the rules of the United MileagePlus program, including without limitation the Premier ® program (the “MileagePlus Program”), which are expressly incorporated herein. Please allow 6-8 weeks after completed qualifying activity for miles to post to your account. United may change the MileagePlus Program including, but not limited to, rules, regulations, travel awards and special offers or terminate the MileagePlus Program at any time and without notice. United and its subsidiaries, affiliates and agents are not responsible for any products or services of other participating companies and partners. Taxes and fees related to award travel are the responsibility of the member. Bonus award miles, award miles and any other miles earned through non-flight activity do not count toward qualification for Premier status unless expressly stated otherwise.

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No.35644_Bose 1pp.indd 1

12/11/2013 14:51

STAY

BUDDHA-BAR HOTEL

THIS MONTH’S HOTTEST HOTELS

PARIS

BACKSTORY This hotel only opened its doors in June, but has already established itself as one of the French capital’s most popular exotic accommodations. The property is housed in a sumptuous 18th-century mansion commissioned by avid art collector (and royal entertainment manager for Louis XV) Augustin Blondel de Gagny.

DESIGN NOTES With the red lanterns and fiery dragons, the overall theme here is a romantic vision of 1930s Shanghai. But designer François Wepler has shown li le regard for the unities of time and space—as evidenced by the combination of hi-tech Japanese Toto commodes and unabashedly Baroque moldings.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • DECEMBER 2013

p043-048_HEM1213_Stay2.indd 43

ROOM WITH A VIEW The historic Suite de Gagny, located on the second floor, has a full balcony overlooking the swanky shops of the Eighth Arrondissement and the swanky people who frequent them.

Alternatively, stay in your room and gawp at the flamboyant frescoes, Asian ornaments and ostentatious chandeliers looming above it all.

Liberace would love it.

BEST PLACE TO HANG OUT The courtyard, a former parking lot for horsedrawn carriages, is now a place for guests to linger over coffee while admiring the topiary. In the evening, by lantern light, those same guests dine on the contemporary French cuisine of restaurant Le Vraymonde to the strains of so BuddhaBar lounge music.

SIGNATURE COCKTAIL Not surprisingly given the brand, the bar here, Le Qu4tre Lounge, presents not one but 12 signature cocktails.

Inspired by the four elements—L’Eau, L’Air, La Terre and Le Feu— they can’t be found at any other Buddha-Bar. A big hit is the Oh My Dog, gin infused with white pepper and pomegranate liquor.

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06/11/2013 15:10

culture || STAY BOSTON, MASS.

Taj Boston

BACKSTORY: The first hotel to occupy this space, the Ritz-Carlton, was founded in 1927. Over the next 80 years, it became a fixture of Boston’s Back Bay. The building underwent a multimillion-dollar renovation in 2002 and five years later became part of the Taj Group, which, by and large, retained the property’s gilt-and-wood fixtures and fi ings.

WHAT YOU’LL FIND JUST OUTSIDE: The Taj Boston’s location means you can close your eyes, head in any direction and bump into a tourist a raction—Newbury Street, the Public Garden, Copley Square, Beacon Hill, the Esplanade. OK, OK, the “Cheers” bar is nearby too.

BEST PLACE TO HANG OUT: The hotel bar—The Bar—has hosted countless oldmoney tipples over the years and, with its wood paneling, stuffed chairs and oil paintings, it looks the part. The picture windows provide views of the adjacent Garden, for those who like to watch the squirrels while doing their power brokering.

HOT DISH: At The Café, executive chef Daniel Dumont fuses regional sensibilities with Indian standards to create dishes like Ko ayam Crab Curry, in which local seafood swims in a rich tamarind and coconut milk sauce. For less adventurous diners, there’s a Lobster Cobb Salad and, for breakfast, Crab Cake Benedict.

AMAZING AMENITIES: Climb out of your complimentary, chauffeur-driven Jaguar and swish past the smiling doorman and up to your Luxury Park View suite, where a butler will draw you a bath, throw in a few rose petals and arrange for a bo le of champagne, creating the brief but u erly convincing illusion that you occupy an upper rung of Boston Brahmin society.

BACKSTORY: Adrian Zecha, an Indonesian hotelier, had been scouting for a site to build a holiday home in 1988 when he stumbled across an idyllic coconut plantation overlooking the Andaman Sea. Fortunately for the rest of us, he decided not to be selfish.

CLAIM TO FAME: This resort is fit for a king. Literally. When the Thai royal family are in the mood for some R&R on the tropical island of Phuket, they stay here.

BEST PLACE TO HANG OUT: The early morning yoga sessions are about as Zen as it gets, thanks in large part to their se ing: a teakwood sala high on a hillside.

With incense in the air and the jungle stirring below, it’s a spot that’s hard to leave, even for those whose physiques aren’t exactly downward-facing dog–friendly.

DESIGN NOTES: Many hotels mimic Asian-inspired luxe; few do it so well.

Architect Ed Tu le has taken inspiration from Ayu haya, the old Siamese capital, to imagine a calming, jasmine-scented retreat of oriental ponds, elaborately carved roofs and ornate pagodas that feels both opulent and discreet.

ROOM WITH A VIEW: Every one of the 40 pavilions that sit in the hills around the plantation is a mini private refuge, and each has a sun terrace and an interior decked out in Thai silks and orchids. But Pavillion 103, looking out across Pansea Beach on Phuket’s west coast, tops the list.

AMAZING AMENITIES: How many hotels have their own fleet of yachts?

Amanpuri has an impressive selection of vessels ranging from 20 to 110 feet, each with a crew ready to take guests diving or on any excursion they please.

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Amanpuri PHUKET, THAILAND

DECEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

06/11/2013 15:10

BE RNE SE SEEL AND ( SWITZE RL AND), 1938

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Y18713LA_VSA_UnitedHem_v1 1 No.36317_Victorinox_Swiss_Army 1pp.indd 1

10/14/13 4:14 PM 25/10/2013 12:43

culture || STAY BERMUDA

The Reefs Resort & Club

WHAT YOU’LL FIND JUST OUTSIDE: The hotel’s sleek and shiny “House Boat,” which is at guests’ disposal for tours of the Bosphorus, twilight spins along the river banks or––if the infamous Istanbul traffic is really ge ing to you––an alternative route to Atatürk Airport.

DESIGN NOTES: Once the home of 19th-century Armenian architect Simon Balyan, this waterside property looks like a large, finely carved ivory box. The interior is the work of hip local design firm Autoban, who’ve combined high European luxury with modish minimalism and the odd O oman-inspired flourish.

IDEAL GUEST: A vacationer with a penchant for the boutique hotel experience (and who is eager to avoid the big chain options in the tourist-congested streets of Sultanahmet), or simply one who knows what a relaxing evening (and sun-splashed morning) on the banks of the Bosphorus is worth.

WHAT YOU’LL FIND JUST OUTSIDE: Descend a set of winding cliffside steps and you’ll find a private pink (yes, pink) sand beach nestled in a rocky cove. Just off the beach is crystal-clear water teeming with Technicolor coral and psychedelic fish. For the daring, there’s a stairway carved out of the rocks on the water’s edge, at the top of which you’ll find a makeshi diving platform.

BEST PLACE TO HANG OUT: The airy Bosphorus Lounge Bar, whose far end has a wall-size window, allowing guests to watch the barges and liners dri ing up and down the channel while sipping a sweet, citrusy Bosphorus Blue cocktail.

Life doesn’t get much be er than that.

BEST PLACE TO HANG OUT: The cli op infinity pool here boasts fine views of Bermuda’s south shore, and so as not to interrupt your sea gazing, staff will deliver a rum cocktail to your wallowing spot. In the a ernoons, they offer a complimentary tea service, which can be enjoyed on one of the sunbeds. In fact, theoretically, you need never leave the pool area at all.

IDEAL GUEST: An adventurer who likes to be pampered. At the beachside Coconuts restaurant, you can munch on local rockfish with coconut-lemongrass sauce while gazing out at the spot where you just enjoyed a bracing dive. A er a breeze around the island on a scooter, you can hit La Serena spa for a warm bamboo massage. Or you can simply loll around the pool thinking about such activities.

ROOM WITH A VIEW: All of the Reefs’ 62 guest rooms have private balconies or patios and cocktail cabinets stocked with everything you’ll need to make that ocean sunset a li le more magical than nature can manage on its own. In fact, even without the aid of a Dark and Stormy, you’ll need to remind yourself occasionally that you’re not, in fact, looking at a poster on the wall of a travel agency.

The House Hotel Bosphorus ISTANBUL

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DECEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

06/11/2013 15:10

Boracay Island, Alkan

Philippine Department of Tourism Chicago Ph: 312.782.2475 Email: pdotchi@aol.com

Philippine Department of Tourism Los Angeles Ph: 213.487.4525 Email: pdotla@aol.com

Philippine Department of Tourism New York Ph: 212.575.7915 Email: pdotny@aol.com

Philippine Department of Tourism San Francisco Ph: 415.956.4060 Email: pdotsf@aol.com

www.itsmorefuninthephilippines.com | www.itsmorefuninthephilippines.us.com | www.itsmorefuninthephilippines.ca

No.36216_Philippine_Dept_of_Tourism 1pp.indd 1

25/10/2013 12:41

culture || STAY

GREEN, WITH ENVY From top: Wailea, Kaanapali Kai, Plantation

FANTASY ISLAND On Maui, you can at least pretend to play like the pros NEXT MONTH, WHEN the PGA Tour begins, as usual, on Maui, we’ll be forced again to question the fairness of life.

Highly paid professional golfers, already blessed with an overabundance of talent, will start their year on a Hawaiian island with fantasy weather, playing one of the world’s top courses: Plantation at the Kapalua Resort.

This particular event is only for the players who won a PGA Tour event last year. It’s called the Hyundai Tournament of Champions, a er all. But here’s a li le secret: The rest of us can play here, and enjoy the fabulous weather, as well.

Among the clichés golf fans love repeating is that their passion offers something almost no other spectator sport does: the opportunity to compete on the same hallowed ground as the pros. Quite a few golf courses host the world’s best one week out of the year and the world’s duffers the other 51.

Plantation, situated at Maui’s northwest tip, is one of the finest golfing locations on the planet. But before you take on the advanced course there, you might want to warm up at one of Maui’s gentler but no less scenic options.

Start farther down Maui’s western coast at Wailea, which offers three layouts and has hosted pros as well, but has a lot less wind whipping across the fairways. On your way back north, Kaanapali, Maui’s original resort, features two layouts: The Royal Course catches even seasoned pros off guard, while the other course, Kai, is more suited to those who find golf to be a nice add-on to Maui’s other considerable pleasures—like a post-game daiquiri.

—JAMES FRANK

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Golf Highlights MAUI, HAWAII

ROOM WITH A VIEW: Behind the Ritz-Carlton Kapalua—and in view of the oceanside rooms—is an ancient Hawaiian burial ground as well as a stone labyrinth that some islanders say was once a vortex for spirits heading to the a erlife. The hotel is rich with Hawaiiana curated by Clifford Nae’ole, one of Maui’s best guides to this fascinating culture.

HOT DISH: A er 18 holes at Kaanapali, climb the stairs to Roy’s, the Asian-fusion restaurant located above the clubhouse. The kimchi burger beats a post-round hot dog any day.

WHAT YOU’LL FIND OUTSIDE: Water, and lots of it. Don’t just get in it, get on it, in an outrigger canoe—built in the tradition of the vessels that reached the Hawaiian islands hundreds of years ago—from Maui Sailing Canoe. A good captain, such as MSC’s Sage Spalding, whose family came to Hawaii in 1847, will spin terrific tales while speeding you across the waves.

SIGNATURE DRINK: The Plantation House, the restaurant overlooking Kapalua’s Plantation golf course, makes Honolua Lemonade with the islands’ own Ocean vodka. Beer lovers should visit the Maui Brewing Co. for locally brewed specialties like Coconut Porter, Mana Wheat and Bikini Blonde.

DECEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

06/11/2013 16:15

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05/11/2013 09:42

culture || TRAVEL ESSAY

EAT, PRAY, RUN! Travel can be a transformative experience, especially when you’re looking a lion right in the eye

BY CHRIS WRIGHT

L

LIKE MOST PEOPLE, I have a complicated relationship with animals. I hate to see them hurt, but will happily place their body parts between two slices of bread.

I’m desperately afraid of being mauled by a bear (I have recurring dreams about it), but if I read about somebody else being mauled by a bear, I get defensive on the mauler’s behalf.

“By hiking into the wilderness, the victim invaded the animal’s habitat, and in doing so knew the risks,” I’ll opine. “I put it to you, ladies and gentlemen of the pub, that the bear is blameless in this tragedy.”

I got the opportunity to put this worldview to the test a while back, when my girlfriend and I went on a one-week safari in South Africa’s Kruger National Park, which is quite literally crawling with creatures who are eager to bite, claw, sting, strangle or stomp to death any human being they happen across.

Even the giraffes looked at us funny.

That’s the thing about trips like this: They force you to re-examine your priorities. Our guide, a garrulous local boy named Johan, was one of the few in our concession who

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • DECEMBER 2013 • ILLUSTRATION BY SAM WASHBURN

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06/11/2013 15:11

TRAVEL ESSAY || culture refused to take a gun out with him, and this bothered me. Johan quickly sensed this, and so would routinely pull up beside a pride of snoozing lions, turn the engine off and, when it was time to leave, pretend the ba ery had gone dead. Oh, the laughs we had.

My discomfort reached a terrible climax when, one sultry morning, we came across a kill.

The victim was a young hippo; cute li le fella. A half dozen or so lions were gathered around it, their snouts covered in gore and flies, their feast occasionally interrupted by an explosion of familial violence. Johan had advised us that the lions would not view us as individuals; the only thing they would see, he said, was our vehicle (which, I should point out, was lacking doors, roof and windows). Try not to move too much, Johan said, and don’t look them in the eye.

I looked them in the eye. Specifically, I looked a young male lion in the eye, and he looked right back at me. Not only this, he stood up and started to walk toward me. I know cats. I knew that look. “Go! Go! Go!” I screamed, flailing my arms in a way that, out here, identified me as one of the day’s specials. Johan, who’d slid to the passenger side to take pictures with his phone, bundled himself into the driver’s seat and started the engine. No jokes this time.

The young lion turned out to be more interested in the mangled hippo than in me, and he soon returned to his spot at the baby animal’s eye socket. The engine was silenced again and we sat there for the be er part of an hour, watching a special wildlife rendition of The Texas Chainsaw Massacre, Johan taking photographs, me clutching a machete he’d handed over to shut me up. It was, by a considerable distance, the most stressful 57 minutes and 32 seconds of my life.

The point is this: Si ing there, I wanted those lions dead. In fact, I’d have been quite happy if we’d sped back to the lodge shooting every living thing we saw along the way, including the bu erflies. It was at this point I understood that my a itude toward the natural world is not one of sympathy and respect. My priorities had been re-examined all right, and there was no mistaking which side of the us-or-them divide I came down on.

We take it for granted that travel can be a transformative experience. We venture out into the world to broaden our horizons, the thinking goes, and in doing so to broaden

52

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The jungle crawled with creatures eager to bite, stomp or strangle us to death.

Even the giraffes looked at us funny. our minds. But the real transformation is not intellectual; it is in our blood. In exploring the outer edges of experience, we discover things we didn’t know about ourselves. We encounter impulses and instincts previously locked away in a box marked “Caveman Stuff.” This is not a comfortable proposition. Facing up to who we are is one thing; facing up to what we are is another.

Certainly, I wasn’t proud of my performance with the lions that day. My fellow safari-goers snickered at my histrionics, but it wasn’t the implication of cowardice that haunted me—it was the suggestion that, when faced with an existential threat, I was capable of abandoning every moral principle I ever held. And where does that line of inquiry lead me? Would I enter a burning house to save a neighbor? Would I drive over a ki en for $50,000? Am I even a moral being?

A er our day of carnage-seeing, back at the luxury lodge, my girlfriend and I sat in the mock-colonial bar with its rustic beams and zebra-skin rugs and drank themed cocktails. There was a deck overlooking the Sabi River, and we stood out there smoking cigare es and gazing into the thick brush on the other side, which rang out continuously with squawks and screams.

Soon, a vervet monkey to ered along the rail toward us, an expectant, melancholic expression on his face. “Give me fruit,” he was saying. “Fruit.” I went inside and got him a banana. The way he turned the lumps around in his hands, studying them with such seriousness—it still makes my heart ache to think of that. But then something else happened. The first vervet was joined by another, then another, then another. They started cha ering, picking at us from behind, jostling us. And then, with a great clamor, these pre y li le monkeys went to war.

Executive editor CHRIS WRIGHT was once terrorized by a school of small yellow fish while snorkeling in the Gulf of Oman.

DECEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

11/11/2013 15:22

The art of surgery: Minimally invasive procedures guided by the same surgeons who are teaching others their art.

At the University of Texas Medical Branch (UTMB Health), minimally invasive procedures are performed by the most talented and experienced surgeons using the most advanced laparoscopic and robotic technologies. These internationally recognized surgeons are the very people who you want taking care of you and your family. In fact, they are the doctors who are teaching others how to do what they do.

The technology is breakthrough. The surgeons are the best. The benefits are numerous. Minimally invasive procedures are safe, and result in faster and easier recovery.

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Center Left: Daniel Beckles, MD, PhD, FACS, FACC, FCCP Director, Minimally Invasive Cardiothoracic Surgery

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This is taking charge of your health.

Right: Sami Gokhan Kilic, MD, FACOG, FACS Chief of Minimally Invasive Gynecology & Research The four surgeons featured here are representative of the more than thirty UTMB surgeons using state of the art minimally invasive surgical techniques across a wide variety of medical specialties.

The University of Texas Medical Branch Member, Texas Medical Center

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AUTO-TATION LEXUS/EVERGLADES

Starting price: $120,060

IT CAME FROM BEYOND THE SWAMP Traversing the Everglades on the Tamiami Trail in the hybrid Lexus LS 600h L

BY JACQUELINE DETWILER

INTERIOR The Lexus LS might be the only hybrid with an interior nicer than your boss’s office. We were delighted to find 16-way adjustable lumbar-supporting seats made of semi-aniline leather and a heated steering wheel. The luxurious detailing is even eco-friendly: The trim and steering wheel are made of sustainable bamboo.

ENGINE With a 5-liter V8 engine and two electric motors, this 438 hp hybrid can go from zero to 60 mph in 5.6 seconds.

Normally, the electric motors reduce the demands on the engine, but when accelerating from speed, everything works in tandem to give you some serious kick—as we found out while passing a rather large truck full of chickens.

WHEELS

CLIMATE CONTROL

The LS is the first Lexus model ever to include noisereducing aluminum alloy wheels—which divert road noise into a channel where opposing wavelengths cancel each other out—so you’ll barely disturb any of the 350 species of birds you might pass while cruising through the cypress trees.

TRANSMISSION

The word “swamp” might make you expect shade, but beware, parts of the Tamiami Trail are as incandescent as a lightbulb. The LS comes prepared with four-zone climate control that adjusts the a/c, seat and steering wheel temperature to preset levels. There are also power sunshades, should you stop for fried gator bites.

CHASSIS

The Everglades didn’t provide much opportunity for adventurous gear-shi ing, but we did get to play with the LS’s mode switcher, which alternates between several fuel-efficient and sport modes. Under “Sport,” S offers higher engine output, while S+ enhances that by relaxing the steering and adding damping force to the suspension on tight corners.

Stability is key on a comfort car that tops out at 130 mph, especially on roads where you might have to swerve unexpectedly to avoid an alligator lounging in the middle.

A reinforced underbody and aerodynamic fins reduced our drag and enhanced tightness on the occasional quick corner, which helped us avoid making any accidental roadkill suitcases.

SOUND SYSTEM Let’s be frank about the radio stations that broadcast through the Everglades, shall we? There aren’t any. But if you shout an artist at the Lexus Enform dashboard computer, it will call up your own tunes on the 450-wa , 19-speaker Mark Levinson surround sound system. The Rolling Stones’ Live in Hyde Park, anyone?

GAS TANK The hybrid engine didn’t do much for our gas mileage on the highway (it pulls 23 mpg, about the same as non-hybrid LS models), but it did get 19 mpg while stuck behind musclemen in Camaros in South Beach.

We made it all the way from Palm Beach to Sanibel Island, with an hour spent cruising Ocean Drive, on three-quarters of a tank.

BOARDING PASS Hit the Tamiami Trail for a test drive of your own. When you travel to the Everglades through Miami, get on the fast lane through the airport with Premier Access, which gives you priority check-in at security and lets you board earlier.

For more information or to buy tickets, go to united.com.

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ILLUSTRATION BY BRETT AFFRUNTI • DECEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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GOING OUT IN FREESTYLE This month marks the midway point in the FIS Freestyle Skiing World Cup season, with events in Canada, Finland, France, China and the U.S. With its flips, leaps, spins, grabs and spectacular spills, freestyle represents skiing’s rebellious side. So, whether you’re on the slopes or in the crowd, you’ll need to pack more than a sweater, a stick of lip balm and that parka you’ve loved since you were a teenager.

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HAIR AND MAKEUP: MARGO HOLDER; MODELS: VALENTINA (FIRST MODEL MANAGEMENT), PETER ALMQUIST (BODY LONDON); FASHION ASSISTANTS: ANNACHIARA BIONDI AND AMALY ALFI

Pack List

NOVEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

06/11/2013 15:11

OPPOSITE PAGE ON HER: Oakley white goggles; Moncler red puffa jacket; Etro black

belt; Tommy Hilfiger gloves; Moncler black bag; Snow + Rock Kjus Formula black trousers; Head Vector 100 MYA ski boots ON HIM: Surfdome Unity brick red goggles; Victorinox white sweater; Victorinox red puffa coat; Snow + Rock Killy Stratus black trousers; Dakine scout gloves; Head Adapt Edge 100 ski boots; Salomon Enduro RS800 skis; Quicksilver Pro Chamonix backpack Photography: Tiffany Mumford; Fashion Direction: Nino Bauti THIS PAGE

Bart’s white fur boots; Moncler red and white sweater; Pringle red and white socks; G-Star Raw snow hat; Atomic Cloud Nine black skis; Head Vector 100 MYA gray and white ski boots; Victorinox perfume; Bart’s white gloves; Starter red headphones; Ice-Forever red watch; Ice-Chrono black and red watch; Ice-Chrono white and red watch; Bloc Flare ski helmet in matt white; Moncler black ski visor; Moncler red and black socks Photography: Ania Wawrzkowicz

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • DECEMBER 2013

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wear in ... Dubai Maha Abdul Rasheed Home to extravagant skyscrapers and the wealthy folks who live in them, Dubai has more than its share of upscale shopping malls. Still, Maha Abdul Rasheed, owner of the city’s vintage boutique Bambah, says there’s a place for thri style. Here, she offers an insider’s perspective on shopping in this Middle Eastern fashion oasis.

INTERVIEW BY CLAIRE CARRUTHERS PHOTOGRAPHY BY MIKE MALATE

Given the mix of locals, expats and tourists, can you identify a style that’s unique to Dubai?

I’ve been living in Dubai for 17 years, and I can tell you that the style has changed dramatically. Because it’s a relatively young city, people generally follow trends and love designer brands. You’ll always have that type here, who loves to make a big statement through luxury. But more recently people have begun to take risks by mixing in street and vintage items, which is great—they’re not just following runway trends blindly, but tweaking them.

So people are coming around to the idea of vintage?

Definitely. I think because there is such an event-driven social scene here, people want to make sure no one else is going to be wearing their outfit. Vintage is good for that.

You travel the world looking for vintage fashion; you must have come across some amazing pieces.

I have this gorgeous Nina Ricci dress from the 1950s. It belonged to the grandmother of one of my suppliers, so it really is special: black velvet with pink and blue pastel detail and a big bow. I rarely wear it, but it’s something I’ll always cherish.

What are some of the must-visit shopping destinations in Dubai?

I’m a big fan of street shopping, which is difficult here because Dubai is not pedestrian-friendly. But if you go to areas like Deira and Bur Dubai, you’ll come across some amazing treasures. My latest purchase was an Afghani ka an from a local store in Deira.

Talk me through what you’re wearing today.

This is actually one of my favorite dresses. It’s from the ’70s; I bought it in Berlin. I just think this midi length, plus all the lace and frills and the off-the-shoulder aspect, is very feminine. I’ve paired it with cage-heel Yves Saint Laurent shoes that I found in Vintage Bar, one of my favorite boutiques in Paris. The owner told me they’re a limited edition runway piece from 1995. They were one heck of an investment, but worth it.

I’m also wearing a special pair of parrot earrings that my friend Raha bought me on a recent hiking trip to Peru—she’s the first Saudi woman to have climbed Mount Everest.

These Aloha bracelets are by an Italian brand called Share the Love. It all complements the boho look I’m going for.

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DECEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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the fan

The Numbers Game Deciphering the ATP’s world tennis rankings

BY ADAM K. RAYMOND

W

WHEN THE 2013 Association of Tennis Professionals (ATP) World Tour ended last month, Rafael Nadal stood alone atop the world rankings. In tennis, that’s called being “year-end No. 1” and is akin to winning the Super Bowl, if the Super Bowl were a mathematical system complicated enough to make your head spin faster than a ground stroke from Roger Federer.

Take Nadal’s recent return to the top of the rankings, which he accomplished in early October at the China Open. He knocked Novak Djokovic off the ATP throne—which the Serb had occupied for the previous 48 weeks—without even playing him. And a day later, when

Djokovic beat Nadal in the tournament’s final round, the Spaniard remained No. 1.

It was an astounding achievement, made even more so by the indecipherable math behind the rankings that so many follow and so few understand.

With the 2014 pro tour ge ing under way at the end of this month, we thought now would be a good time to try to decode the ATP World Rankings system, before any new developments confused us even further.

“The first thing to know is that it’s a 52-week rolling ranking,” says ATP chief player officer and unimpeachable rankings guru Andre Silva. That’s how Nadal overtook Djokovic in the same

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tournament that saw Djokovic emerge as victor. Even with the loss, Nadal’s results from the previous 52 weeks were be er than Djokovic’s. Don’t feel bad for the the Serb, though. Back in July he lost the Wimbledon final to Andy Murray and remained atop the world rankings, again, because his previous 52 weeks were the best.

Anyone who follows the rankings systems in major college sports should see why this is significant. NCAA basketball and football teams are re-ranked every week based on their most recent games, creating instability and emphasizing recent results over long-term performance. Consider this: If tennis were ranked like college sports, Roger Federer would never have achieved his astonishing streak of 237 consecutive weeks atop the world rankings. A er all, he lost more than 20 times while wearing the crown.

“Next, you should know that the ranking is formed by 18 annual tournaments,” says Silva. Sixteen of those are mandatory, including all four Grand Slams, eight of nine Masters 1000 events and four of 11 500 series events (one of which can be replaced by the Davis Cup). The final two tournaments included in a player’s ranking

NOBODY WINS Jan Kodes (right), the “scab” victor of the largely boycotted 1973 Wimbledon Championships

come from the remaining 500 series events, a handful of 250 series events and, every four years, the Olympics.

Each tournament is worth points, which are the basis of a player’s ranking. Winning a Slam nets a player 2,000 points, a Masters 1000 event carries a 1,000-point prize, and so on. Those who finish second, third and down the line get points too, just not as many. Given the rolling nature of the rankings, each time a tournament is played, a player’s points earned the previous year are

replaced by the most recent result. That’s why tennis commentators use the phrase “defending points,” which refers to the challenge of matching or exceeding one’s finish from the previous year.

Sometimes failures to defend points can lead to rankings anomalies. Andy Roddick was the beneficiary of one such fluke in early 2013, when he moved up two spots despite having retired five months prior.

At the time, Roddick still had 970 points, which held steady one February week

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THE FAN || culture because he didn’t have points to defend from the previous year. When two middling players who did have 2012 points to defend failed to do so, their lower scores replaced the previous year’s and they dropped below Roddick, who moved from 42nd to 40th best in the world. Not bad for si ing on the couch.

If all of this sounds confusing, that’s because it is. To understand how the ATP rankings evolved, one must go back to a time before they existed. The year was 1973, and the ATP had just formed to advocate for male professional tennis players. The main issue of the day was player freedom and the power national federations wielded over a country’s tennis players.

The tipping point was Wimbledon, 1973, when onetime U.S. Open doubles champion Niki Piliç was suspended by the Yugoslav Tennis Federation for playing a professional match instead of representing his country in the Davis Cup. When the International Tennis Federation (ITF) announced it would recognize Piliç’s suspension at Wimbledon, the ATP took a stand. Eighty-one top players, including defending champion Stan Smith, refused to play at the All England Club, and tennis’

most storied tournament was forced to field amateurs and players with the name recognition of ball boys.

That was enough to scare the ITF into striking a deal with the ATP, granting players freedom to control their schedules by tying tournament entry to world rankings.

Though the method for determining those rankings has evolved over the years—from requiring no tournaments, to counting them all, to today’s complicated model—the right the ATP fought for in 1973 remains unchanged. Players still gain entry into tournaments based on where they stand in the rankings and not on capricious bureaucratic whims.

“Their ranking is their tour card,” Silva says of professional players. “You get paid only by playing and you only play based on your ranking. It doesn’t matter what you did in the past. You have to continue to perform, or you’re history.”

That cutthroat nature encourages players never to take a day off. Loafing in the lower ranks could be the difference between playing in the U.S. Open and selling hot dogs at it. It also keeps the level of competition as high as possible.

In fact, it’s not uncommon to hear top pros lay out ranking scenarios. In April

2012, three months before recapturing what he called “My No. 1 ranking,” Federer showed how locked into the rankings he was when he said, “The number one spot is possible this year, but I have to play really well. Djokovic could win his fourth Slam in a row in Paris, and if he does it will be difficult for me to become No. 1.”

The ultimate achievement comes not in reaching the top spot, though, but in staying there. A few men on the illustrious list of No. 1s have lasted no longer than a tournament. Only 16 have been good enough long enough to end the season atop the rankings. And only five have spent a whole season at No. 1 for every single week. Federer managed to do it for three consecutive years, holding on to the top spot for the entirety of 2005, 2006 and 2007. The on-court dominance needed to achieve that kind of streak may never be seen again. But if it is, the man who does it will have to start at the same place Federer did in the u erly meritocratic ATP world rankings—all the way at the bo om.

Oakland, Calif.–based ADAM K. RAYMOND has greatly improved his math skills as a result of reporting this article. Tennis is another story.

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INNOVATION BUSINESS GADGETRY 1 P PASSENGER PIGEON SPECIMEN DNA

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3

ROCK PIGEON

2 PASSENGER P PIGEON

GERM CELL ROCK PIGEON

HOW IT’S DONE

BRINGING BACK THE PASSENGER PIGEON When he was 13, Ben Novak wanted to revive the extinct dodo—a very tricky feat, even today. But 13 years later, Novak has a pre y good shot at bringing back another extinct avian species: the passenger pigeon. He’s the lead researcher on a project launched by a foundation called Revive & Restore, which aims to repopulate the Earth with the peach-breasted birds that once populated the eastern seaboard so thickly that flocks blo ed out the sun. Passenger pigeons went extinct almost exactly 100 years ago, so re-establishing their substantial flocks will be a challenge. Revive & Restore’s co-founder and executive director, Ryan Phelan, estimates that the project will take 10 years, assuming that all of the pieces fall into place. And that’s probably an optimistic estimate: Scientists will have to sequence the genomes of the passenger pigeon and its closest living relative, combine the two, insert the resulting DNA into stem cells in eggs, hatch chicks and breed the chicks’ offspring to pull it off. Here’s how they’ll do it. —JACQUELINE DETWILER

1 “All ancient DNA has holes in it,” says Phelan. To repair the holes, researchers will compare the DNA from a bunch of passenger pigeon museum specimens to that of their closest living relative, the band-tailed pigeon. They’ll figure out which genes code for passenger pigeon–specific traits, like that colorful breast, and add them in if they’re missing.

2 Next, researchers need to turn the DNA into birds. The scientists plan to insert the DNA into germ cells meant to become sperm or eggs, then stick those into the eggs of rock pigeons. The hatchlings will still be rock pigeons, but if all goes well, their sperm or eggs should be those of passenger pigeons. Breeding them with each other will produce the final birds.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • DECEMBER 2013 • ILLUSTRATION BY JAMES PROVOST

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3 To ensure survival, the new chicks will need to be raised like passenger pigeons by surrogates from other pigeon species. These surrogates will be trained in advance to eat a passenger pigeon diet and may be dyed to resemble adult passenger pigeons. There are even plans to use homing pigeons to train the fledgling passengers to migrate properly.

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INDUSTRY

MUSIC FOR THE MASSES FROM FOUR-NOTE “SONIC LOGOS” TO FULL-BLOWN COMMERCIAL ANTHEMS, HOW A FORMER ROCK ’N’ ROLL HOPEFUL CONQUERED THE ADVERTISING WORLD

BY CRISTINA ROUVALIS

O

ON NW WEEKDAY WEEKDA WEEKD DAY MORNINGS, M during his commute into commute int M Manha an, Joel Beckerm will some man somet tii sometimes play a li le tune in his is head. By the the time his train rolls into Penn enn Station, he h have hummed a few he’ll notes into a dig notes di digital recorder. He hums so o so ly ly y that th hat few f of his fellow commuters even know he’s doing it. But out in the world, his melodies are heard loud and clear.

Beckerman, 50, is the founder of Man Made Music, the “sonic branding consultancy” responsible for AT&T’s four-note jingle. He also worked with will.i.am on

a new arrangement for “Entertainment Tonight.” And when Ryan Seacrest walked onto the set of NBC’s “The Million Second Quiz Show” in September, he moved to the beat of Beckerman’s electronic dance composition.

At a time when the advertising industry is still very much in belt-tightening mode, Beckerman’s 15-year-old firm is growing briskly—doubling sales in the past two years. Certainly, Man Made Music has no difficulty finding companies willing to stump up the $50,000 to $1 million it charges for a

TM

$0

250 K

500 K

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signature sound. “People,” Beckerman says by way of explanation, “want that emotional connection.”

Of course, there’s nothing new about companies using the emotional tug of music to reel in consumers. The world is full of jingles that have wormed their way into the collective consciousness.

But things have changed over the years.

Today, rather than a full-blown anthem, many companies want a “sonic logo,” a four- or five-note sound sequence that evokes a brand.

“Those signature four notes become a call to action,” says David Allan, professor of music marketing at Philadelphia’s St. Joseph’s University. “It’s almost like seeing a red octagonal sign. You don’t need it to say stop.” Man Made Music has proven itself unusually adept at constructing these truncated compositions, which has driven the company’s success.

Despite their brevity, sonic logos are not easy to pull off. Beckerman’s brief from AT&T was to humanize the brand and to promote consistency across a range of products and services—which is no mean feat when all you have to work with is dumdah-dee-dum. It took Man Made Music 18 months to finalize a four-note signature— D-D-E-B (see illustration on page 67)—or four and a half months per note.

The hardest part, perhaps, was trying to find the right texture for the sound, which took 300 man hours, many of them spent

Today, many companies want a “sonic logo,” a fouror five-note sound sequence that evokes a brand. in a room full of people doing li le more than puffing their cheeks. As is o en the case, Beckerman had his eureka moment during his morning commute. The resulting sonic logo can now be heard not only in ads but in retail stores and on various electronic platforms.

Beckerman doesn’t always have that much time to get it right. Last year, he was given two weeks to take the iconic NBC Super Bowl theme—wri en five years ago by his musical hero, John Williams, and reimagined by Beckerman once before, in 2009—and recast it for the 2012 event. “I was hired too late,” he says. “It was nerveracking.” In the end, Beckerman recruited a 45-piece orchestra and a rock band to record the piece, an “Aerosmith-style arrangement with epic undertones” that worked equally well for the network and its audiences.

Another tricky job last year required Man Made Music to provide a fresh spin on the HBO theme that had introduced

The Spice of Life

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HOT RODS AND HOT SAUCE HAVE MORE IN COMMON THAN YOU MIGHT THINK

D

oes the phrase “Lava hot wings of doom” make your heart flutter? How about “Monster Steve’s roller coaster of doom”? According to a new study from the Sensory Evaluation Center at Penn State University, your preference for onth’s this m ING both may be connected. The researchers recruited about 100 Z A M A subjects and had them taste diluted capsaicin, the chemical FACT that makes peppers hot, and report how often they ate spicy foods and how much they liked them. They also asked students to rate themselves in regard to their affinity for “sensation seeking,” a personality factor associated with everything from entrepreneurialism to drug use. It turned out that people who scored higher in sensation seeking (Sample questions included “I would have enjoyed being one of the first explorers of an unknown land”) liked hot foods more and ate them more often than those who scored lower. At the moment, there’s no way to tell whether being a sensation seeker leads people to love spice, or if eating hot foods leads people to enjoy risky activities, but for now, indulging in a plate of Thai chili stir fry can’t hurt. Or can it? —JACQUELINE DETWILER

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every original series and movie for more than two decades. To do this, Beckerman slowed down the orchestral sequence, took out some notes and added new textures. He made sure, though, to keep the familiar dah-dah-dum at the end. “It’s a surprise,” he says, “but by the time you get to the last three notes, you say, ‘Oh, I know what this is.’’’ That piece too was a hit.

It’s all a very long way from the clubs of New Jersey, in which, as a young man, Beckerman played keyboard in a rock ’n’ roll band, hoping to fulfill a childhood dream of musical stardom. While that plan didn’t work out, there are traces of his former life in this one. His experiences dealing with bickering bandmates, for instance, have le him well equipped to play the role of “musical shrink” with clients. “Don’t tell me you want trumpets,” he’ll tell them. “Talk emotions.”

Perhaps the most powerful thing he has retained from his rock ’n’ roll years is a desire for authenticity—something that’s not o en associated with marketing. “This is where people mess up,” Beckerman says. “They think you can lie to people with music. The moment you do that, they’ll tune you out.”

CRISTINA ROUVALIS, a Pittsburgh-based

writer, is currently seeing a psychiatrist in an effort to rid herself of the AT&T theme, which has been looping in her head.

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11/11/2013 15:24

TECH

FRIENDS WITH BENEFITS A SOCIAL NETWORKING SITE FOR SCIENTISTS IS HELPING THE INTERNET FULFILL ITS ORIGINAL MISSION

BY BOYD FARROW

W

WHEN TIM BERNERS-LEE created the World Wide Web to enable scientists to share research, he apparently overlooked its potential for the sharing of selfies and epic fails. In this regard, the Internet itself has been something of an epic fail, allowing twerking mishaps to go viral while researchers, working in isolation, continue to rely on grindingly slow academic journals to disseminate their findings.

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But a young virologist named Ijad Madisch is trying to rectify this situation, by applying the dynamics of social networking to the culture of academia with an audacious start-up, ResearchGate—or, as he puts it, “Facebook for scientists.”

Though he’s been at it since 2008, Madisch’s venture got quite the windfall this year, when he bagged $35 million in financing, with an undisclosed chunk coming from Bill Gates,

ILLUSTRATION BY PETE RYAN • DECEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

06/11/2013 15:18

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“Bill immediately understood what we’re about and how social media can bring scientific research into the 21st century,” says Madisch from his slick new headquarters in Berlin. In perhaps a quirky nod to that other titan of the social networking game, he’s dressed in a lurid, near-fluorescent hoodie.

By exchanging ideas in the same way that the rest of us swap holiday snaps and inspirational quotes, Madisch feels the peer review process is being greatly improved.

“There is no limit to the type of discoveries that ResearchGate can accelerate,” he says.

Madisch has a ready supply of success stories to back up that claim—like the grad student in the Philippines who believed he’d found a way of creating energy from corncobs and who, a er a professor told him his research was flawed, posted it on ResearchGate as failed data. The post was later viewed by an organic chemist in Spain, who saw potential, and the pair developed a new technique for creating biofuel.

Just as valuable, says Madisch, are the genuine flops. He recalls an Australian engineer who posted a paper on “quirk theory”—an explanation for why unpopular kids are o en admired as adults—which was discussed and ultimately trashed on the site. The point, for Madisch, is that the rejection did not arise from the traditional “behind closed doors” peer review model, which he sees as a big step forward.

“The biggest change we’re making is ge ing scientists to share details of failed experiments,” Madisch says. “What has held science back is that only successful research is published. But, just as in business, it is the details of failures that help future successes. By ge ing people to share those details, we can move on much faster.”

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“What has held science back is that only successful research is published. But, just as in business, it is the details of failures that help future successes.”

The ResearchGate site looks similar to Facebook, but with nicer graphics and less stalking. Users have Followers rather than Friends, but there is a rather Likelike reputation system and the occasional question that skews more toward the existential than the scientific. “Is mathematics a human contrivance or is it innate to nature?” asked one commenter, who received this blistering reply: “Do we invent mathematical forms as we need them and then merely discover their emergent properties later? Or are those mathematical forms innate to nature, and are hence discovered rather than invented? Does it really ma er to science which way around we view this?” In short, you rarely, if ever, encounter an LOL. While it’s not on par with Facebook in terms of popularity, ResearchGate has a respectable 3 million members—“roughly half the scientists on the planet,” says Madisch. And while it has yet to transform brainpower into revenue, ResearchGate is broadening its range of services, starting with a kind of egghead help-wanted section, which has received a lot of interest since its August launch. Other potential revenue streams are conferences and an “Amazon” for lab equipment, complete with user reviews. Madisch insists, though, that the company will never sell data.

Making a fortune isn’t the ultimate aim of his enterprise, he says. What he wants to do is put scientists in control of their fate.

“Open science means that data is freely available, so findings, and indeed funding, are less likely to be influenced by politics, business or public opinion,” he says. “This is not some crazy dream. It is happening.

We are really dragging scientific research into the modern age.”

San Jose • Los Angeles BOYD FARROW, a London- and Berlin-based business writer, has not made up his mind whether his Internet talents are better suited to twerking or finding a cure for the common cold.

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THE HEMI Q&A: JOHN GOODMAN

BLIND AMBITION

ISLAND TREASURES

The first man without sight to climb Mount Everest aims to help others achieve their dreams

From Jamaican music to Dominican baseball, a look at the contributions islands have made to global culture

THREE PERFECT DAYS: COSTA RICA

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“ON THE WAY TO A NEARBY STREAM, YOUR GUIDE POINTS OUT SLOTHS, WHITE-NOSED COATIS, A FAMILY OF HOWLER MONKEYS AND POISON DART FROGS AS BRIGHT AS MONDRIANS." THREE PERFECT DAYS: COSTA RICA ILLUSTRATION BY CHRISTINE BERRIE • DECEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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06/11/2013 15:19

DECEMBER 2013

THE HEMI Q&A

John Goodman In recent years, December has been a great month for John Goodman. In 2012, he starred in two Oscar-nominated films, Flight and Argo. This year, he appears in the Coen brothers’ Inside Llewyn Davis, the latest chapter in one of Hollywood’s most fruitful collaborations. Can this guy’s career possibly get any bigger?

BY DAVID CARR ILLUSTRATION BY C.F. PAYNE

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JUNE 2012

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THE HEMI Q&A: JOHN GOODMAN

JOHN GOODMAN tends to make a big impression when he ambles onto the screen. And that’s not just because he’s a big guy. Over the last 25 years or so, the St. Louis native’s characters—Dan Conner on “Roseanne,” Walter Sobchak in The Big Lebowski, Harling Mays in last year’s Flight—have had considerable physical presence, but they’ve also been marked by big voices that swing from tender to explosive, or from common-man philosophy to surrealist rant.

It’s a bit of a surprise, then, that in person, Goodman tends not to fill a room the way he does on screen. In an interview to promote Inside Llewyn Davis, the new Coen brothers film set in 1960s Greenwich Village, he’s friendly and engaged, and completely without bluster. Then again, the former bouncer doesn’t feel the need to throw his weight around. He’s done enough hell-raising, he says—much of it not far from the Midtown Manha an hotel we’re talking in. In fact, Goodman himself will tell you that since 2007 he’s no longer a drinker, and the happier for it.

These days, Goodman is content to indulge in the cuisine and music of New Orleans, a place he’s called home for almost two decades. But any time the phone rings and Joel or Ethan Coen is on the line, he goes where he’s told. His work with the Coens has been the defining relationship of his career. In Inside Llewyn Davis, Goodman plays a heroin-addicted jazz musician and affable antagonist to the folk-singing title character, played by Oscar Isaac.

It’s a performance that, as is so o en the case with Goodman, keeps you riveted to the screen.

The night before our conversation, the Coen brothers introduced their new film by having its music producer, T Bone Burne , put together a concert at New York City’s Town Hall, an evening that included performances by Pa i Smith, Joan Baez, Jack White and Elvis Costello. Goodman emceed the event, jokingly advising the audience to “stay away from the brown acid” and trying his best, he says, not to obstruct the talent.

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BIG GUY, BIG ROLES From top: Goodman, with “Roseanne” co-stars Roseanne Barr and Laurie Metcalf; in the upcoming The Monuments Men; with William Forsythe in Raising Arizona; in The Big Lebowski; at the Inside Lleywn Davis premiere during the New York Film Festival

DECEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

11/11/2013 10:58

ABC VIA GETTY IMAGES (“ROSEANNE”); © 2013 COLUMBIA PICTURES INDUSTRIES AND TWENTIETH CENTURY FOX FILM CORPORATION (THE MONUMENTS MEN); © 20TH CENTURY FOX/COURTESY EVERETT COLLECTION (RAISING ARIZONA); © BUREAU L.A. COLLECTION/SYGMA/CORBIS (THE BIG LEBOWSKI); FILMMAGIC (PREMIERE)

HEMISPHERES: That was a pretty great

HEMISPHERES: You don’t seem to have

evening. It’s not every night you see Patti Smith dueting with Joan Baez.

much trouble getting off the couch when Joel and Ethan Coen want to work with you.

JOHN GOODMAN: The dicey part for me was ge ing to a place where I wasn’t in everybody’s way. It was so jam-packed backstage, and there wasn’t any room.

HEMISPHERES: And you’re not a

little person.

GOODMAN: Nope. I’m oafish.

HEMISPHERES: That seems a little harsh.

GOODMAN: Around all those young, slender musicians, I felt a li le oafish.

It was fun, though, even if I was a li le nervous. So many of those songs are heartbreaking. It’s what you go to hear good folk music for, to have your heart break. I love to see live music, and I’d like to go out and see more, especially in New Orleans, but the couch grabs me.

GOODMAN: Nobody writes like them.

I just have a deep personal connection with the movies they do. There is a visceral feel for what they lay down, and I love the way they tell stories. We’ve always connected, since we worked together on Raising Arizona back in 1986. Just being around them is a pleasure, and I’m very proud to be a part of what they do. Joel and Ethan know what they want, and what they want registers very highly with me.

HEMISPHERES: Do you feel bad when

they make a movie like True Grit and don’t cast you?

GOODMAN: Oh, sure. I had Grit envy.

HEMISPHERES: Can you ride a horse?

GOODMAN: Um, no. The last time I rode a horse was in 1980 in Baltimore; the horse tried to kill me. It was a rent-a-horsie, and he took off and was rubbing against trees and stuff like that. I couldn’t stop him! He finally ran out of gas. I’d still love to do a ’50s-style western where everybody has a Li le Joe haircut and tight vests.

HEMISPHERES: I’m not convinced that

would be a great look on you.

GOODMAN: Um, no.

HEMISPHERES: Inside Llewyn Davis is a

period piece of a different sort. You really feel like you are in the Village when it was all going off. Your role is like a lot of your other characters, a kind of truth-teller.

GOODMAN: Yeah, he was telling what he thought was the truth, I reckon, but he did it in a way that was very abrasive and hard on the people around him. He’s one of those people who feel that their job is to be a scourge.

GOODMAN AND THE COEN BROS. ARE SCRIPT PERFECT FROM RAISING ARIZONA

“What Evelle here is trying to say is that we felt that the institution no longer had anything to offer us.”

FROM BARTON FINK

“Ladies do ask for attention. In my experience, they pretend to give it, but it’s generally a smokescreen for demanding it back with interest.”

FROM THE BIG LEBOWSKI

“No, Donny, these men are nihilists. There’s nothing to be afraid of.”

HEMISPHERES: I wasn’t really ready for

how dark the movie got. I thought it would just be this period piece and we’d hear some good music along the way, but the film goes right at the whole “meaning of life” thing pretty hard.

GOODMAN: I just saw it again the other night and it landed harder on me than it did the first time. I think I saw more things—I certainly felt more things.

You see the lead character going back and forth, trying to figure out who he’s supposed to be and what he’s supposed to do. He literally has a fear of success, and it shows up in the choices he makes.

HEMISPHERES: These are not academic

issues to you.

CONTINUED ON PAGE 110 »

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06/11/2013 15:19

BL ND AMB TION Erik Weihenmayer, the first blind person to reach the summit of Mount Everest, is on a mission to get other would-be adventurers with disabilities to see what’s possible

BY BUDDY LEVY • PORTRAITS BY MATT NAGER

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HOLDING STEADY Erik Weihenmayer leading an ascent of Red Tower in the Dolomites

NOVEMBER 2013 â&#x20AC;¢ HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

06/11/2013 15:23

CHARLEY MACE

ELLURIDE, COLO., is a barely perceptible smudge of light as I shuffle my feet along a narrow scree trail 1,000 feet or so up the wall of a box canyon. Erik Weihenmayer, my guide, walks ahead of me, flicking the edge of the path with his trekking poles, feeling his way with his feet and occasionally probing the void to our le . “Baby goat trail with consequences,” he says, anticipating the conditions ahead. And we are both fully aware of what these “consequences” involve: a crash course in the damaging effects of gravity.

We are navigating this Rocky Mountain town’s thrilling Via Ferrata. Italian for “iron roads,” via ferratas originated in the Alps during the First World War to aid troop movement. Telluride’s is a “horizontal climbing route” that starts near Bridal Veil Falls and runs down the canyon, traversing the side of a massive vertical rock face. It’s a three-to-four-hour technical route with fixed cable sections you clip into to cross the sketchiest, scariest, most exposed areas.

Weihenmayer moves with precision, even ease, running his hands over the limestone to find secure handholds. We reach The Main Event—Via Ferrata’s signature section—an exposed vertical rock face with the potential for serious consequences. Here the world sloughs away, vanishing into the nothingness below. I watch as he clips his carabiners onto the cable and, Spider-Man-like, moves across the face, his hands and feet gliding from one bolted U-shaped rung to the next. In less than 30 seconds he’s across, standing safely and confidently on a rock ledge on the other side.

“C’mon, Buddy, you got this,” he says. “Just one move at a time.

Stay focused. Stay calm and remember to breathe. Oh, and don’t look down.”

I move slowly, palms sweating, legs quivering like a faulty sewing machine. With my guide’s encouragement, I manage to shimmy awkwardly across the face, clinging to one rung a er the next. A er a terrifying 10 minutes hanging from a sheer mountain wall, I’m standing next to him. “Way to go,” he says, pa ing me on the shoulder. “That wasn’t so bad, was it?”

The man who has just talked me across the abyss is one of the most celebrated adventurers in the world. He is also totally blind.

FOR WEIHENMAYER, Via Ferrata is a cakewalk. He’s one of just a few hundred people to have climbed the Seven Summits—the highest peak on each of the seven continents. In 2001, he became the first blind person to conquer Mount Everest, which landed him on the cover of Time. And at 45 years old, he’s not finished yet. At the moment, he’s training to solo-kayak the Grand Canyon—226 miles of some of the most dangerous whitewater

“ALL THE INSPIRATION IN THE WORLD WON’T GET AMANDA BOXTEL OUT OF HER WHEELCHAIR—BUT INSPIRATION PLUS AN EXOSKELETON WILL.”

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • DECEMBER 2013

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rapids in the world. Even Weihenmayer is a li le daunted by his next adventure. A li le.

But he doesn’t do all this for fame or glory, he says. He is on a quest to demonstrate that a cognitive or physical disability does not have to consign a person to a life without adventure and meaning. “One of the big challenges for people [with disabilities] is ge ing unstuck,” he says. “Something happens to them and they crawl into a dark hole, surrounded by a brick wall, and they stay there.”

Having been blind since the age of 13, due to a rare disease called hereditary juvenile retinoschisis, Weihenmayer knows that feeling well. He is practical enough to understand, though, that escaping the so-called “dark hole” is not simply a ma er of willpower. So, in 2005, he co-founded a biennial summit called No Barriers, which aims to bring people with disabilities and those developing technologies that can help them achieve their dreams together. The Via Ferrata climb is part of this year’s summit, which is taking place at nearby Mountain Village.

In addition to learning how to navigate craggy rock faces, the 600-odd a endees can take clinics in mountain-biking, paddleboarding, kayaking and fly fishing. These activities, in turn, are aided by such inventions as hand-cranked mountain bikes, a kayak called the Bellyak (which you paddle lying on your belly) and Sidestix (forearm crutches suitable for all terrains). At the extreme end of the spectrum, there’s a headset camera that “translates” images into sensations on the tongue, allowing blind people to “see” in a new way, and a hi-tech exoskeleton that can help the wheelchair-bound walk again.

As he strolls through the main floor of the Telluride Conference Center, Weihenmayer stops and listens a entively as various summit a endees approach him with their own stories of overcoming adversity. Fi een-year-old Jack Weinstein, for example, who also has retinoschisis, says that nothing has seemed impossible since he learned of Weihenmayer’s adventures. Weinstein adds that he has plans to partake in the upcoming Escape from Alcatraz Triathlon, which includes a swim across the choppy waters of San Francisco Bay, and will dedicate the feat to Weihenmayer.

Between these impromptu testimonials, the sharing of which is part of the therapy here at the summit, Weihenmayer tells me more about the mission of No Barriers.

“We’re aiming to help people who are not equipped to get out of that hole, or through or over the brick wall,” he says. “Too o en, they look through a rearview mirror at their former life, and they focus on what they had before, and they can’t move forward.

They’re stuck.

“We help these people get unstuck through inspiration, sure,” he continues, “but inspiration coupled with tools and skills and new ways of working with people. Those who are stuck need teaching, training, innovation and technological advancements to help them. All the inspiration in the world won’t get Amanda Boxtel out of her wheelchair and up walking—but inspiration plus an exoskeleton will.”

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WALKING TALL Amanda Boxtel says she’ll be hiking mountains soon

“I CALL THAT MY ‘BIONIC SMILE.’ IT’S THE GIDDY GRIN PEOPLE GET WHEN THEY GET OUT OF THEIR WHEELCHAIR.” ALONG WITH BOB WOODRUFF—the ABC News anchor who was severely wounded while reporting on the Iraq War in 2006—Amanda Boxtel is one of the Telluride summit’s biggest a ractions. Paralyzed from the hips down by a skiing accident in 1992, Boxtel has gone on to become a celebrated adaptive athlete and ski instructor. She has established programs in Chile, Argentina and Iceland, where paraplegics can descend a mountain on specialized skiing equipment.

Like Weihenmayer, Boxtel has become a celebrated figure in the No Barriers community and is known to be a highly effective motivational speaker, but her presentation today in the summit’s main auditorium is more about what she does than what she says. As the lights come up, the 46-year-old native of Brisbane, Australia, walks—not wheels—onto the stage, courtesy of an exoskeleton she’s nicknamed “Tucker.”

The technology that allows Boxtel to do this is the work of Ekso Bionics, a California company that works in conjunction with institutions, including U.C. Berkeley, to develop and modify these wearable robots. As she makes her way to center stage, Boxtel’s steps are labored and require forearm crutches for stability. But the expression on her face is one of unequivocal, almost childlike glee. “I call that my ‘bionic smile,’” she says later. “It’s the giddy grin people get when they get out of their wheelchair, into an exoskeleton, then stand up and start walking.”

As Boxtel begins her presentation, which is more homily than lecture, the wheelchair users in the audience fidget, rolling back and forth. “The first time I used an exoskeleton it was very emotional. I had long dreamed of walking and this was exactly

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how I imagined it,” she tells the crowd, before offering a litany of medical benefits, which include reducing atrophy and retraining neuropathways.

“But for me,” she continues, “it’s allowed me to give someone a standing, heart-to-heart hug, with no wheelchair between us.

It’s hard to describe just how liberating that is.”

Here, Boxtel pauses until the room becomes silent. “I think that two years from now, we’ll be pushing these exoskeletons to new limits,” she says finally. “We’ll be hiking mountains soon!”

The crowd erupts. When the cheering subsides, she looks directly at a group of audience members in wheelchairs. “For those of you in wheelchairs,” she says, “get ready to walk!”

A mother bends over her son, who’s watching mesmerized from his wheelchair, and embraces him fiercely.

IN A WAY, Weihenmayer represents the next step of the transformation—from the simple act of walking to taking on challenges that would seem harrowing to pre y much anyone. “Whitewater kayaking is the scariest thing I’ve ever done, and I’ve done some pre y scary things,” says Weihenmayer, who in addition to summiting Mount Everest has skied black diamond runs, mountain-biked Leadville, paraglided solo and parachuted out of airplanes.

As the No Barriers Summit comes to a close, I talk with Weihenmayer and his main paddling guide, Rob Raker, about what he’ll be facing next year, when he tackles the Grand Canyon’s Class IV rapids.

“Kayaking whitewater blind is very risky,” I say, “even for you.”

Weihenmayher responds, “The risks I take CONTINUED ON PAGE 112 »

DECEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

06/11/2013 15:24

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Chengdu: Western China’s Emerging International City

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rowth in many of China’s formerly booming east coast cities is slowing as exports and government spending decrease. Rising labor and business costs are pushing companies to look elsewhere for investment opportunities. The changing economic forces coupled with China’s long-term Western Development policy are encouraging investors’ to turn westward, to one city in particular. Situated at the frontier of China’s vast western provinces, Chengdu, the capital of Sichuan province, is enjoying increased attention from both domestic and foreign companies as the city achieves rapid economic growth during a national slowdown.

Amid concerns that a slowing economy is hurting FDI prospects, Chengdu has stood out as the most popular destination for foreign capital in western China. In 2012 as national FDI growth slipped 3.7%, Chengdu saw an increase of 31.1%. The culmination of Chengdu’s international emergence occurred earlier this summer when business leaders, former government officials, and economic experts landed in the city for the FORTUNE Global Forum. During the three day conference, 74 business deals worth RMB 112 billion ($18.3 billion) were signed between FORTUNE 500 companies and Chengdu.

What are the major attractions driving foreign companies’ attention on Chengdu? Key factors include a global transportation network, a vast talent pool, and a comfortable lifestyle.

Situated between the major Asian capitals and the European continent, Chengdu has grown into a global transportation hub for aviation. Chengdu, the fourth biggest air hub in China, accommodated more than 30 million passengers in 2012. Chengdu Shuangliu International Airport now has 28 direct international routes,

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including new links to Frankfurt and London launching in 2013.

International airlines are converging on the opportunities presented by Chengdu’s emerging logistics hub and competing for limited new routes into the city. In April last year, just months after China’s Civil Aviation Administration listed Chengdu as a national air hub, representatives from international airports and airlines met in Chengdu for the Asia Route Development Forum to discuss the future of the industry.

While in Chengdu for the FORTUNE Global Forum, United Airlines CEO Jeff Smisek announced plans for a new route between San Francisco and the Sichuan capital launching in April 2014.

Chengdu is home to more than 50 higher education institutions including top universities like Sichuan University, and the University of Electronic Science and Technology of China.

Of the over 100,000 skilled workers that these institutions produce annually, 60% of graduates major in science and engineering fields.

According to a report released by Kelly Services and three Chinese professional agencies, Chengdu ranks third nationally, behind only Beijing and Shanghai in talent retention. “My hometown is now capable of offering jobs with quite decent pay,” said 20 year old Wang Liping, a native of Chengdu. “Plus, we have better prospects here than in those bigger cities.”

Although Chengdu’s economy is now growing twice as fast as many coastal cities, the residents have not strayed from their relaxed lifestyle. The tempo is slower and more comfortable than that of Beijing and Shanghai, keeping young people like Wang close to home and attracting others from the busy coastal cities.

Chengdu’s allure and emergence as an international city will be on display again this fall when the World Chinese Entrepreneurs Convention is hosted in Chengdu. More than 3,000 Chinese entrepreneurs from over 100 countries will participate in the event.

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Island Treasures We tend to think of islands in terms of their appeal as destinations, as if each were a self-contained parcel of a ributes, natural and cultural, that we visit, enjoy and then leave behind.

Too o en overlooked is the vast influence that even the tiniest island can have on the wider world—on the food we eat, the clothes we wear, the games we play and the music we listen to. Here, some of the people who shape these cultural pearls describe their origins, their appeal and the lands from which they emerged.

THE SANDLOT Children play baseball on a beach near the Dominican Republic's Samaná Peninsula PHOTO BY MICHAEL HANSON

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DANCERS IN THE DARK A dancehall party in the lot behind the Marley family–owned Tuff Gong Studios in Kingston, Jamaica

Jamaica

MUSIC PHOTO BY SHANE MCCAULEY

CE’CILE It’s easy to relegate reggae to a Rasta-capped period in the 1960s, but to Jamaicans, that era is part of a longer tradition.

And there have been variations along the way, from ska and rocksteady to the dancehall beats that hit the airwaves in the early 2000s. Singer Ce’cile was at the forefront of the dancehall movement: A featured artist on Sean Paul’s Grammy-winning Dutty Rock album, she has since released four albums of her own.

These days, the music Ce’cile helped popularize has found its way into such diverse genres as jazz, rock, dubstep and house, but that doesn’t surprise the singer at all. In fact, you could say she—and the rest of Jamaica—saw it coming.

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V E N T H O U G H DA N C E H A L L and reggae are synonymous with Jamaica, not many parents want their child to say, ‘I want to be a dancehall artist when I grow up.’ It’s be er than it was 10 years ago, but back then it was really a no-no, especially for the kind of family that I had. My grandfather was the mayor of the town we lived in, and saying you wanted to be a dancehall artist was definitely not striving for high achievement.

That’s a funny thing, because Jamaica is known all over the world for this music.

I did what I wanted to do anyway. And then my dad hooked me up with Ibo Cooper, who was a member of the band Third World at the time. We started hanging out and banging out music, and that’s where it really started out for me. So initially it wasn’t a love-love relationship between being in the family I grew up in and being a dancehall-reggae artist. But now that has changed. Coming from Jamaica now, it’s just phenomenal for reggae and dancehall.

I think it’s the vibe that’s so contagious.

Everybody catches it, because you can go to a festival or something and, even if you don’t understand half of the things that are being said, the vibe and the music

and the ambience and the energy, it’s infectious. You just have a great time, and it happens over and over again. We don’t have marketing strategies—most of us don’t do any of those business things. The vibe sells itself, and that’s what we have been going off for a long time.

If you are going to perform in Jamaica, you have to have energy, energy, energy, energy, energy—especially for the big shows. It’s completely different from the rest of the world. You can do a good slow show somewhere else, but you gotta be moving in Jamaica, man; they want choruses, choruses. It’s the same as how we record 100 singles a month. It’s crazy.

A reggae track will last, but a dancehall track? I have not heard any in a while that have lasted longer than three months on the radio, because they have so many more waiting to be premiered. That’s how we keep ourselves relevant on our island.

You might be a big deal in the rest of the world, but if you’re not on top of your game in Jamaica, you are not relevant. You could have just come off tour in Europe and somebody will be like, ‘I’m not hearing anything new from you.’ That’s the way it is here.”

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Hawaii

SURFING PHOTO BY RAY COLLINS

LAIRD HAMILTON Surfers can (and do) argue about where to find the best rides in the world, but the origins of the sport are undisputed. Polynesian tribes brought the practice to Hawaii prior to European contact and perfected it on the archipelago’s enviable waves. Laird Hamilton, big-wave champion and co-inventor of tow-in surfing, grew up riding Oahu’s notorious Pipeline break and is now one of the most celebrated names in surfing. He divides his time between California and Kauai, traveling to Maui’s north coast to tackle monster waves every winter.

“T

HEY CALL THE North Shore of Oahu the ‘Seven Mile Miracle.’ I mean, it has some of the best surf in the world. Without those waves it would just be another side of one of the islands. Without a doubt, the waves have shaped that place more than any place in Hawaii. Pipeline, Sunset, Waimea—that coastline is where all the big surfing competitions go.

I grew up at Pipeline. Any surfer in the world who was trying to make a name for themselves, or just challenging their own skill, had to come to pretty much my front yard.

Most of the men I grew up admiring were what we called ‘watermen.’ They could sail, they were great fishermen and divers, and they were skilled at surfing—they could do all of these different things in the ocean. I think for the Hawaiians that was a necessity, because they lived off the ocean, so they had to have the skill to be in the waves. Eventually they started riding them and turned it into fun instead of survival.

What started as a necessity turned into an obsession.

The obsession and the necessity go hand in hand.

The most amazing surfing experience I’ve ever had was this day in Maui when we rode some of the biggest waves I’ve ever seen. It was a story that ended up ge ing depicted in the book The Wave by Susan Casey.

That day we surfed waves that were more than 100 feet high. A friend of mine got hurt, and I had to do somewhat of a miracle rescue. But we went back out, and we saw these waves that were so majestic and so rare that it was a li le bit like seeing dinosaurs, to see the ocean with that kind of rage and power.

When the surf is big on Maui, when it gets gigantic and mesmerizing, people line up for miles and miles to see it. Of course, that really only happens in the winter, in December and January. But that’s probably one of the most special things you can ever see in Hawaii. It’s like if you could say to someone, ‘A Tyrannosaurus rex is gonna run down the road, come and see him.’ People are going to want to see that.”

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IT'S A SHORE THING A surfer catches the Pipeline break on Oahu’s North Shore

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WILD AND WOOLLY Harris Tweed traditionally comes from Scottish Blackface sheep

Isle of Lewis

HARRIS TWEED PHOTO BY LARA PLATMAN

JUDY R CLARK For generations, Lewis islanders have woven Harris Tweed in the barns and sheds of Scotland’s Outer Hebrides.

Long seen as the textile of choice for stuffy academics, tweed is in the midst of a revival, thanks in part to the attentions of people like Paul Smith and Karl Lagerfeld. Today, the fabric is being put to use by a new generation of fashion designers. Judy R Clark, one of Scotland’s most promising young talents, uses tweed to produce oneof-a-kind garments at her Edinburgh studio. For her, tweed is not just a fabric; it is a part of her heritage, and a representation of the spirit of the tiny islands that produce it.

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Y UNCLE DONALD, who lives in Shawbost, a small town on the island of Lewis, was a weaver of Harris Tweed for many years. I started working with the fabric in 2007. My grandmother had gone over for a visit and came back with a suitcase of tweed remnants. ‘See what you can do with that,’ she said. So I did, and I’ve never looked back.

From the start, I wanted to make tweed seem more modern. So I mix it with lots of different fabrics—from places like Nepal and Morocco, along with Sco ish lace and other local textiles—and then combine that with unique silhouettes to create one-off, tailor-made garments. People love things that are totally original.

I adore the fabric for many reasons. I like that it’s made by hand by these people on this tiny island. There’s a romance to that.

It’s part of our history, where we come from.

And, for me, because it’s in my family, there’s an emotional a achment. So it’s great to have a bit of input into how it’s used.

I remember going to Lewis as a child, being on a boat. I try to go back a couple of times a year—I can’t get enough of it.

The people there are what you’d expect, I suppose, with their big jumpers and jeans.

They weave the tweed at home, in a shed in the back garden, and that’s the beauty of it all. When I’d go to visit my uncle, he had a radio and a loom, si ing there weaving his tweed.

Of course, tweed is the dominant source of income on Lewis, and if you’re not working directly with it, you know somebody who is—your aunt Mary’s brother’s uncle’s wife. And people are proud to be a part of this tradition. Tweed even has its own authority to protect it, created by an act of parliament, so it can’t be copied. It’s a treasured fabric.

Uncle Donald retired last year—he had poor legs a er all those years operating the loom. I can’t imagine the life of a weaver being an easy one, but my uncle loved it. In general, people here seem very content, happy with what they have and who they are. It’s the kind of place where you wander into the next door neighbor’s house and say, ‘Put the ke le on.’ It’s such a lovely place to be.

It’s also visually beautiful, this rugged landscape with small, winding roads, the old cro houses do ed about, the beaches and, of course, the sheep—the place is covered with sheep.”

DECEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

11/11/2013 11:19

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12/11/2013 14:52

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CHEAP SEATS A boy watches batting practice at the municipal stadium in San Antonio de Guerra, Dominican Republic

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Dominican Republic

BASEBALL PHOTO BY BRENDAN HOFFMAN

OMAR MINAYA Baseball may be America’s pastime, but in the Dominican Republic it is something more—if not a religion, than at least an obsession. It is also the country’s biggest export: On opening day of the 2013 season, 10 percent of the players on Major League rosters were from the tiny Caribbean nation. Omar Minaya has seen the growth of baseball culture here firsthand. After his minor league playing career fizzled, he worked as a scout, bird-dogging talent in the early days of the Dominican explosion, then went on to become the first Dominicanborn GM of a Major League team (the Montreal Expos, then the New York Mets). He is now senior VP of baseball operations for the San Diego Padres.

“T

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HIS COUNTRY HAS a great love for the game, and for the players who play the game. It’s an identity. When you think of the Dominican Republic, baseball is at the forefront. It connects everybody. It’s got bursts of excitement and then relaxation, and that’s what the Dominican Republic is about.

In a country that is economically challenged, baseball has given people financial opportunity— not only as a way out for themselves, but as a way of helping others, of helping the family. Baseball, from a numerical standpoint, is a game of negatives, meaning that if you get three hits out of ten times at bat, you’re great. It’s that long shot, striving to hit that home run in life.

The culture has changed a lot, because the business has go en bigger. When I started out, the international aspect of the game was something that not every team dabbled in. In the States now, a lot of talent is being redirected to basketball, football, other sports, so we look for talent elsewhere; the Dominican Republic in particular has become much more important.

Not only is the talent there, but there is also the passion. The game is growing because of the Marichals, because of the Sammy Sosas, because of the Pujolses, because of the Papis. The Dominican team just finished winning the World Baseball Classic. That’s huge.

But there are fond memories of those early days, of what the kids would do to play. There were no baseball academies back then. A kid would jump on a bus, drive five hours and try out, right off the bus. And then we’d sign the player. I’ll give you the story of Sammy Sosa: When I was working for the Texas Rangers as a scout, Sosa got on a bus, came to us and tried out for a contract. We negotiated for four or five hours, and we fought back and forth over $500. Those days are over.”

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STREET FOOD PHOTO BY GORDON CALDER

KF SEETOH Many islands have signature dishes, but only one can claim to be the home of the street food obsession currently gripping the culinary universe. KF Seetoh, who founded the Singapore food guide Makansutra in 1997, has become one of the world’s foremost experts on street eats. He believes the history of his island country is best told through chicken rice and chili crab, which is why he helped launch the World Street Food Congress. Held for the first time last May, the event attracted the likes of Anthony Bourdain and Claus Meyer, and was held in, you guessed it, Singapore.

“S

INGAPORE IS A totally migrant nation. The bulk of our migrant workers came from China and India. It was the men who came over. They didn’t bring their families, so these guys started cooking. They started pu ing stands on the streets and they sold their own cultural delicacies. The Chinese then began adapting what you could do with chilis and sambal, things they didn’t have back home, and started cooking curries. And the Indians were looking at the fried noodles the Chinese people made, and they started coming up with their own Indian-style fried noodles. All of this was going on for decades; by the 1950s, there were 24,000 of these stands.

Around the 1960s, the government said, ‘We should get rid of these street food vendors. They’re an eyesore; it’s a health problem.’ So some genius said, ‘Let’s build hawker centers.’ These are essentially huge sheds the size of a football field.

The government systematically started relocating all the street food vendors into these hawker centers. Today, there are 117 of them. How can that not be iconic?

Singapore is only 250 square miles and

we have 117 of these hawker centers, each housing on average 100 stalls, each of which is manned by experts who cook nothing but one singular dish through generations. And these hawkers are very successful. Nobody bats an eye if somebody tells you, ‘Oh, that hawker is a multimillionaire.’

Who has the best food? That’s a question that will always start an argument. But street food truly is the greatest democracy we have here. If your food sucks, you’re out. People aren’t going to pick you. There’s this dish—it’s arguably our national dish— called chicken rice. It sounds boring. It looks horrendous. It’s poached chicken on white rice with a couple of slices of cucumber and tomato and some chili dip, and it was invented by a Hainanese immigrant.

The Hainanese were not known for their food back home. They were farmers. But when Anthony Bourdain took his first bite of it some years back, all he said was, ‘Wow.’ As I understand, it was some 90 years ago that this man created chicken rice. Now everybody sells it. It’s something you eat when you don’t know what to eat. Then you must eat it.”

ILLUSTRATIONS BY JOEL KIMMEL

Singapore

COUNTING THEIR CHICKENS A satay stand in Singapore's Lau Pa Sat marketplace

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12/11/2013 15:37

TO AIR IS DIVINE A surfer pulls tricks in Dominical

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THREE PERFECT DAYS: COSTA RICA This eco-paradise is the perfect place to embark on a Central American safari, and if you plan well, you can even have the monkeys mostly to yourself

BY JACQUELINE DETWILER • PHOTOGRAPHS BY AL ARGUETA

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IF YOU’RE ACQUAINTED WITH any budding ecologists, chances are you’ve heard about the many charms of Costa Rica. Visiting this tiny Central American country—which is roughly the size of West Virginia—is like being inside the world’s best zoo: The question is not if you’ll see a wild animal on your travels, but whether it will be a sea turtle, a sloth or a monkey.

Interest in Costa Rica, and in adventure travel in general, has exploded over the last couple of decades, so it’s no surprise that the beaches of the Nicoya Peninsula and the slopes of the Arenal Volcano are seeing the arrival of yoga centers, bars and luxury hotels with golf courses. As these developments have proliferated, there’s concern that they may have tarnished Costa Rica’s appeal as a place of simple pleasures, where the most common response to “¿Como estas?” is “Pura vida,” which translates as both “excellent” and “full of life.”

With almost a third of Costa Rica under some form of environmental protection, pura vida can still be found, of course. The country’s pockets of paradise range from the breeding spots of precious turtles on the Caribbean coast to the depths of unpopulated rainforest near the Panamanian border. The Osa Peninsula, a tropical lowland bordered by mangrove swamps, reefs and lacy caves, is a fantastic place to start looking. Here, at breakfast, you’ll be just as o en disturbed by a toucan on your table as by your waiter.

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CREATURE COMFORTS From top: a guestroom at Lapa Rios; one of the guests you might see on the hotel’s grounds

DECEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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COSTA RICA BY THE NUMBERS POPULATION:

4.7 MILLION MILES OF COASTLINE:

801 APPEARANCES IN THE ENDLESS SUMMER II:

1 TONS OF BANANAS EXPORTED IN 2011:

1.8 MILLION (10 PERCENT OF THE WORLD TOTAL) ACTIVE VOLCANOES:

5 SPECIES OF MONKEY:

4 PERCENT OF THE WORLD’S BIODIVERSITY THAT CAN BE FOUND IN THE COUNTRY:

5 PRICE FOR A SMALL CUP OF COSTA RICAN TARRAZÚ GEISHA, THE MOST EXPENSIVE COFFEE AT STARBUCKS:

$6 DAY ONE | Strung through the rainforest like a chain of bromeYou blanch, but follow him to a nearby stream, which you pick liads, the Lapa Rios Eco Lodge comprises 16 stilted bamboo huts your way along as he points out sloths, white-nosed coatis, poison with private terraces facing a smear of blue Pacific. Enjoying a dart frogs as bright as Mondrians and, at one point, an entire cup of Costa Rican coffee on your private lanai, you family of acrobatic howler monkeys. Edwin seems scan the surrounding greenery for howler monkeys. uniquely suited to the task of locating creatures You don’t see any, but they are around. This close among the balsa trees and strangler figs. While DAY ONE to Corcovado National Park, a teeth-clattering you find yourself staring at the forest as if it were Walking among 45-minute drive from the Osa Peninsula’s largest a Rorschach test, he points at a spot not four feet monkeys, tasting the fruits of the jungle, a town, their barking is the only sound save bird calls in front of you where a Jesus lizard has taken the snake encounter and the wind blowing through the trees. river at a run, darting across it without breaking Climbing what seems an unreasonable number the surface. of stairs, you se le in on the resort’s dining room Like many trails in Costa Rica, this one eventually DAY TWO terrace for a “Tico Special” breakfast—tico being the dead-ends at a waterfall. It begins to rain, but you are Surfing in Dominical, local moniker for a Costa Rican. The plate includes undeterred from stripping to your bathing suit and dining in a French two eggs with fried sweet plantains, rice, beans, fried Canadian expat town, taking the chilly plunge into the fall’s lower basin. driving to the clouds white cheese, sour cream and corn tortillas, which You lie on your back to watch raindrops dri toward you wash down with a blindingly sweet glass of your face. fresh passion fruit juice. The deliciously he y meal Back at the hotel, you hit the dining room for a DAY THREE is almost enough to nail you to your chair. Almost. salad with passion fruit dressing and fresh trout Ra ing the Rio You manage to roll yourself over to the “Activities from a local mountain stream. It’s a delightfully Savegre, beachside guacamole, a mojito Hut,” which, stocked with boots and books and topounexpected combination—enough so that you begin with a view graphical maps, is what you imagine Amazon explorer to consider a sideline in crispy trout skin croutons.

Percy Fawce ’s final outpost would have looked like.

This is no time for business, however. A er lunch, A staging area for Lapa Rios’ many rainforest excursions, it is where you clamber down a steep road to the beach and take a siesta you meet Edwin, an Osa local who’s been leading hikes through under a palm tree. When you awake, the palm leaves clicking the Corcovado and its environs for 18 years. He hands you a pair of against each other, the surf rolling in, you have a disorienting rain boots that practically cover your knees. “For snakes,” he says. sense that you may have been transported into a television

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THREE PERFECT DAYS || COSTA RICA

commercial for tropical rum, a feeling that is not diminished as you stroll along the beach, the waves breaking photogenically, the so breeze ruffling your hair.

Following a post-nap spruceup in your room, you’re ready for evening. You head back up to the dining room and order a hearty pejibaye (peach palm) and camote (white sweet potato) soup enriched with sour cream, followed by a brothy bouillabaisse with coconut milk and freshly caught octopus, calamari and red snapper. You dig into both and are pleased to find the local flora and fauna are as nice to eat as they are to look at.

A er dinner, you set off into the jungle for what could easily be the final hike of your life, huddling close to a handful of fellow guests as Edwin leads you through a darkness so eerily black you might as well be in a velvet bag. You pass through corridors of steaming mushrooms, your flashlight catching red-eyed tree frogs, tailless scorpions, a purple and orange Halloween crab and a fer-de-lance—one of the most dangerous snakes on Earth—with a head the size of a man’s fist.

This last specimen inspires much shouting and stepping on of feet. Later, over large frozen drinks at the hotel bar, the intrepid explorers swap everescalating physical approximations of the snake’s head. “As big as a rugby ball,”

that howler monkeys may be more reliable alarm clocks than, well, alarm clocks. Still, early to rise, early to surf. This morning you’re driving to Dominical, a surfing mecca in Costa Rica’s Central Pacific region that has thus far avoided the surge of development that has hit towns farther north.

A er an invigorating spritz in your private outdoor shower, you hop into your rental with a package of mangoes and cookies from the front desk and wend your way north along the cliffside highway over the Golfo Dulce, which keeps stunning you with its exquisite views—with deleterious effects on your driving.

By lunchtime, you’ve reached (and missed several times) the turnoff to Dominical. Unpaved and do ed with surf rental shops and flophouses, its towering palms shading tin-roofed beachfront bars and jeeps laden with longboards, this is Costa Rica as it was before the boom. You wander into a promising-looking natural foods and live music venue called Maracatu and demolish a pla er of juicy fish tacos, washing them down with a Libertas golden ale, a local microbrew that sprang up a few years ago to rival the long-dominant Imperial brand. You ask the bartender about the surfing. “The biggest waves are on that side of the beach,” she says, pointing north. “Everything’s a li le easier on the south side.”

SERPENTSHOOERS Snake-proof rain boots outside Lapa Rios’ Activities Hut

says a guy from Australia. “Large as a basketball,” you counter, taking a sip.

This continues through several rounds of the Costa Rican sugarcane liquor known as guaro, and eventually you find yourself floating back to your room, visions of Anaconda III dancing in your head.

DAY TWO | Upon waking at 6 a.m. for the second day in a row, you determine

TOTAL BULL If you’ve always wanted to watch the running of the bulls but can’t quite make it to Pamplona, you might want to visit a Costa Rican rodeo. Often held at festivals in Liberia, Guanacaste and San José, Costa Rican rodeos feature the usual bull rides, but with the addition of daredevil improvisados, who dance around the ring ahead of the bucking animals to distract them from their purpose of goring fallen riders. “Oh, so, like rodeo clowns?” you say. Not exactly. Here, there are dozens of people in the ring during each ride, many of whom are inexperienced future cowboys and some of whom are, basically, spectators. They can earn money by winning games in which they try to tap the bull’s head or retrieve a handkerchief tied to its tail without getting injured, but many just swarm toward and away from the bull just for the fun of it.

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GETTY IMAGES

In Costa Rican rodeos, spectators can get a little too close to the action

DECEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

06/11/2013 15:28

LIFEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S A BEACH From top left: nachos at Tortilla Flats; three surfers take a break; blankets left out to dry in Dominical

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COSTA RICA || THREE PERFECT DAYS

11/11/2013 11:43

50 SHADES OF BLUE A vision of the Costa Ballena from the Rancho Pacifico pool; opposite: a toucan attempts to blend in

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DECEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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COSTA RICA || THREE PERFECT DAYS

SPHERE TODAY...

EVERETT COLLECTION (RAIDERS OF THE LOST ARK)

You don’t have to wait for UNESCO to put its stamp on Costa Rica’s mysterious stone globes; they’re waiting for visitors now At the beginning of Raiders of the Lost Ark, Indiana Jones narrowly escapes being crushed by a giant stone booby trap at a temple somewhere in “South America, 1936.” It would probably be more accurate to say that he was in southwest Costa Rica, which is where mysterious ancient spheres, some more than 8 feet in diameter, have been found in the delta region of the Diquís River. Archaeologists believe the spheres were created between 600 and 1000 AD, but their original purpose is unclear, in large part because many of the specimens have been moved or even blown up on the suspicion that they contained gold (they didn’t).

These days, UNESCO is considering the spheres for World Heritage status and even sent a team of experts to assess their suitability for the official list in 2010.

The Museo Nacional de Costa Rica in San José displays a few in its pre-Columbian exhibit, but the best place to see them in the wild is at Finca 6, an archaeological site near Palmar Sur at the base of the Osa Peninsula.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • DECEMBER 2013

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You are very good at taking it easy, but less good at surfing, so you rent a longboard from Dominical Surf Adventures and head south. The waves today are immaculate—clean, heavy three-foot le s and rights in consistent sets. As you heave yourself onto them, acing a few, ge ing rocked by others, you see the occasional local wandering down the beach with a salty dog and a stick. Otherwise, it’s just you and the ocean. Hours pass before you’ve got enough water in your nose to call it quits.

A er a quick change, you’re back in the car and heading to Ojochal, about 20 minutes to the south. The community here, hidden from the main road, is home to a number of French Canadian expats famed

for their fantastic cooking. You decide on dinner at Exotica, a 10-table terrace that specializes in French–Asian–Costa Rican fusion, and order a plate of Tahitian tuna carpaccio with bananas and the Chicken Exotica, which is stuffed with plums, cream cheese and bacon and topped with a creamy red pepper sauce. It’s a wonderful dish, and you make a point of saying so to the chefs, Bob and Lucy, who take a seat at your table and do a dangerously good job of making you want to live here.

He and Lucy are quite well traveled, says Bob, but the moment they landed in Ojochal, “We just fell in love.” Bob goes on to call the place “perfect” and—with the cicadas humming, a tree frog hopping by and a bowl of passion fruit sorbet

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appearing on the table before you, you’re inclined to agree. You practically have your bags packed by the time you leave.

Your mind turns to the mechanics of driving on your way to your next hotel—a bracing 30-minute journey that culminates in a series of dirt switchbacks that become progressively more vertical until, finally, you are only managing 5 mph with the accelerator slammed to the floor. By the end, you imagine that you are spiraling up a mountain of Seussian precipitousness, hotel perched precariously on the tip. When you do reach Rancho Pacifico, that’s not what you find, of course, but it’s mighty close.

You’re staying in the resort’s standalone TreeHaus Hideaway Villa, a sort of architectural display cabinet made almost entirely of glass that overhangs the edge of a spectacularly high cliff. You’re so far above sea level that the air is cooler and dryer. You run around opening doors and windows, of which there are many. On one of your two porches is a hot tub. Lounging in it, you don’t even feel earthbound, and that’s long before morning allows you to see the faraway contours of the Ballena coast.

DAY THREE | Standing barefoot and bleary-eyed before an enormous picture

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

GREEN ZONE On the way to the main lodge and bar at Rancho Pacifico

window, you experience a sense of calm that remains with you until the very moment you remember that you have to drive back down the mountain you’re on. But you make it, one quaking hand on the emergency brake, and stop for a celebratory banana, pineapple and papaya smoothie at The Dome Drive-Thru to soothe your nerves. You’re going to need them unfrayed for today’s activity—ra ing the Class II-III rapids on the Rio Savegre.

Compared to the double-decker sandwich of ra s on its roof, the riverbound bus from Dominical Surf Adventures is a

delicate thing, a hippie van with flap-out seats and windows that let in the slap of head-high branches and leaves. Jeudy, one of the two river guides, can’t resist sticking an arm out periodically to grab bits of vegetation and demonstrate their functions.

In short order, he hands you peppercorns, lemongrass, cinnamon bark, citronella berries and teak leaves, the last of which were once used by Native Americans to make ceremonial paint.

Covered in red teak juice, you emerge from the van at the put-in. A few instructions are dispensed. “Adelante” means

THE INSIDE SCOOP FROM THOSE IN THE KNOW ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER JAMES FIELD

Alexandre Kamierzac

Rafael Sánchez

Masial Elizondo

CONCIERGE, VILLAS DOMINICALITO

SALES AND RESERVATIONS, BAHÍA ADVENTURES

TOUR GUIDE, RAINFOREST ADVENTURES

“There are many ways to get closer to nature here. First, visit Marino Ballena National Park, taking a boat to snorkel at Cano Island. It’s beautiful; there are fish, sharks and turtles. After that, come back to the land and explore the mangrove forests.

I recommend going by kayak so you can get in among the trees.”

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“Whale-watching is something everybody should do when they’re in Costa Rica. We have two seasons, one when humpbacks come south from North America, and one when they come north from South America. They come because the water is warm; they want to escape the cold.”

“I love volcanoes; I’m a volcano person.

I like to hike near them and relax in the hot springs. One of the most famous in Costa Rica is Arenal, but in the north side of the country we have Rincon de la Vieja.

It has a beautiful hike and natural pools with hot spring water. It’s one of my favorites.”

DECEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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COSTA RICA || THREE PERFECT DAYS

Parque Nacional Los Quetzales Quepos

Chirripó National Park

2

Rio Savegre El Silencio San Isidro de El General

0

34

10 Miles

243

DAY ONE DAY TWO DAY THREE

Maracatu Tortilla Flats Dominical Surf Adventures

3

Rancho Pacifico

The Dome Drive-Thru Buenos Aires Canton Exotica

P a c i fi c O c e a n

34

Potrero Grande

Puero Cortés

245

Golfo Dulce

Corcovado National Park

Lapa Rios Eco Lodge

DAY ONE:

Dominical Surf Adventures

DAY THREE:

Lapa Rios Eco Lodge

Main St., Dominical; Tel. 506-2787-0431 Exotica Main Rd., Ojochal; Tel. 506-2786-5050

The Dome Drive-Thru

Rancho Pacifico

Tel. 506-8380-5581 Tortilla Flats Dominical waterfront; Tel. 506-2787-0033

Peninsula de Osa; Tel. 506-2735-5130 DAY TWO: Maracatu Main St., Dominical; Tel. 506-2787-0091

1 Rancho Pacifico Rd., Uvita; Tel. 506-2851-6346

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • DECEMBER 2013 • MAP BY STEVE STANKIEWICZ

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Highway 34, Uvita; Tel. 506-2743-8506 Rio Savegre Puntarenas El Silencio Puntarenas;

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THREE PERFECT DAYS || COSTA RICA

JUST ANOTHER DAY IN PARADISE Thai soup at Exotica; a perfect exploring beach near Lapa Rios

paddle forward. “Alto” means stop. If you made of blackberry juice, water and sugar—is almost as refreshing as changing hit a dangerous rapid—you’re a li le nerinto dry clothes. vous about one called “gringo eater”—you When you return to Dominical, the sun are to lean toward the center of the ra and hold on to the side to avoid being has gilded the ocean on its diurnal slide tossed into the drink. This all sounds very to the end of the waves, which means ominous, but it turns out to be one of the the surfers are eking out a few last rides before heading home. About 30 locals purest distillations of fun you’ve ever experienced. Rounding a bend, you pass a have turned out to watch them, si ing on horse standing alone in a field. It observes bony washed-up logs with plastic cups of wine. A few dogs you placidly. You pace anxiously in observe it boisterLIKE THREE PERFECT DAYS? the sand, each finally ously. You stop at a Get them on the go, with our free Three Perfect Days iPhone app yelping in happiness waterfall (of course), and pairing off with and take turns jumping off a ledge behind the water sheet into a surfer when he takes his last wave in.

At twilight, the sunset-watchers head the roiling plunge pool.

On the way back, the van stops beside to Tortilla Flats, which is such a consuma thatch-roofed restaurant overlooking mate beach bar that it seems to have an African Palm grove. It’s the sole eatery achieved peak beach bar–ness. Less than in the wonderfully named co-op farming 100 yards from the waves, it’s shaded by a clutch of greenery and a sheet-metal town El Silencio. The whole roast fish with rice and beans, cheese and salad, with a roof. Dreadlocked surfers laze on wooden tasty glass of mora—a traditional drink stools, drinking Imperials and munching

on guacamole. You take a seat and order one of the casados—a plate of roast meat with salad, rice and beans—with your own side of guacamole. You’ll save the drinking for a er the drive to the hotel, thank you.

Back at Rancho Pacifico, exhausted in the best possible way, you se le in at the high-top bar by the pool. A pair of excitable bartenders is creating spirited takes on mojitos and gimlets just for you, watching closely to make sure you approve.

You lean back, breathing in the rainforest mist and listening to the chorus of frogs.

Though the restaurant, pool and bar are uninhabited save you and the barkeeps, upon closer inspection it’s clear your surroundings are pura vida.

Senior editor JACQUELINE DETWILER absolutely did not take one of those adorable red-eyed tree frogs back to New York with her and, furthermore, has no idea what you’re talking about.

BOARDING PASS The eco-paradise of Costa Rica is within your reach with seasonal and year-round nonstop service to San Jose and Liberia. To help protect forests like the ones in Costa Rica, United offers a carbon-offset program designed to reduce our impact on the environment. Proceeds go to forest conservation, wildlife habitat restoration and clean-energy development. For more information or to purchase carbon offsets, go to united.com.

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No.00000 Right Place Right Time 1pp.indd 1

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THE HEMI Q&A: JOHN GOODMAN

HEMISPHERES: Do you ever watch

sitcoms now?

Goodman: No, I don’t watch that many anymore. I guess I’m not that interested in the sexual adventures of young people and how they’re perceived by writers in California.

HEMISPHERES: It’s probably not that

intrinsically interesting a topic to start with. » CONTINUED FROM PAGE 79

GOODMAN: Not for me.

HEMISPHERES: Are you excited

Goodman on contemporary sitcoms: “I’m not interested in the sexual adventures of young people and how they’re perceived by writers in California.”

GOODMAN: No, they’re not academic at all. They hit me in the gut level, which is why I walked away the other night with a very powerful reaction to the film. You can be the kind of guy who keeps on wondering what would have happened if he’d done X instead of Y, but I try to stay away from that. That kind of wondering isn’t going to do anybody any good. It sounds a li le silly or trite, but what I’m really trying to do now is to enjoy the journey.

HEMISPHERES: When did that start?

GOODMAN: Probably a couple of years ago.

HEMISPHERES: Does living in New Orleans help? The conversation there is less about who you know or where you work than what band you saw and what you ate.

GOODMAN: I can be comfortable in Los Angeles as well, and I’ve always loved New York. But I’m so used to the pace of New Orleans now. It’s a lot less hurried down there. It’s hard to walk in the Quarter anymore, but I still dig the Quarter. There’s a lot of magic there. I was worried about moving to New Orleans, because I got sober in California, but I found

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good people to hang with. In New Orleans, when I have downtime, I try to take care of myself physically. I’ve got a guy I box with, a gym I can go to, and I figured once I’ve done all that, I can call it a day and just hang.

HEMISPHERES: Or eat.

GOODMAN: Well, yes to that. Commander’s Palace is right down the street from me, but usually my wife comes up with new places to eat at.

She’s the expert. I’ll just go for a po’ boy and let it go at that, because they’re all good. And I go to Central Grocery, on Decatur Street, for a muffule a.

about [the George Clooney film] The Monuments Men? GOODMAN: Yes, very. I hope it turns out as good as it felt when we were doing it. It was a very happy experience.

George knows exactly what he wants, and he knows how to do it without spraying all over the place. Everybody is there to tell their part of the story and to have a good time, and that’s what we did. I never laughed so much as I did on this one, si ing around with Bill Murray and Ma Damon.

And George is like a big five-year-old kid, somebody you want to hang around with. He brings out the kid in me.

HEMISPHERES: He’s managed to make being famous look fun.

GOODMAN: Yeah, he wears it like a loose garment. Just watching him work and seeing how much he just enjoys himself.

I tried to learn a li le bit from that.

HEMISPHERES: You’re back working in

television, if you can call it that, on the Amazon series “Alpha House” with Garry Trudeau, a satire about Washington, D.C. How important was the fact that you worked on a series as good as “Roseanne” early in your career?

GOODMAN: Apparently it was pre y important, in that it had a wide audience and people got to know and like the characters. Rosanne had issues she wanted to deal with, and she dealt with them through that medium.

HEMISPHERES: Like what?

GOODMAN: I don’t have to work as hard as I thought I did, and I don’t think I ever really had to work as hard as I did.

I overthought things, and now I know that if you sit still, the answers will come to you.

DAVID CARR, a columnist for The New York Times, can recite Big Lebowski lines with the best of them. Got it, dude?

DECEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

06/11/2013 15:22

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FEATURES || BLIND AMBITION

are calculated risks,” apparently as much to himself as to Raker or me. He goes on to outline the exhaustive trial runs he’s taken on the raucous Usumacinta River, between Guatemala and Chiapas, Mexico, and the grueling training sessions with Olympic paddlers at the U.S. National Whitewater Center, in Charlo e, N.C. And Weihenmayer won’t be alone during his Grand Canyon adventure.

He will paddle his own kayak, but in front of him there will be a “line se er,” a support kayaker who will pick the best

routes among the rocks and eddies.

Bringing up the rear will be Raker, who will keep an eye on the line setter and convey his commands to Weihenmayer via a waterproof headset.

The most common command Weihenmayer will receive will concern how and when to make turns. “Of course, Erik really has only a vague idea of how much he turns with each a empt,” Raker says, “so I am constantly giving him correcting turns. When he is finally headed in the right direction, I say, ‘Hold that line.’

BUDDY LEVY is an author based in Moscow, Idaho. His book, Geronimo, is due out from Simon & Schuster in April.

SKYLER WILLIAMS (KAYAK); ERIC ALEXANDER (MOUNT COOK)

» CONTINUED FROM PAGE 84

Inevitably he drifts off the desired line, and I repeat the necessary turning instructions until he is back on course.

It sort of feels like I’m working a radiocontrolled boat.”

It’s not a perfect system, and whitewater is unpredictable, but the two men are confident that they’ll make it through. When I ask Weihenmayer what adventures he’ll embark on a er the Grand Canyon, Raker smiles and shakes his head. They’ve had this conversation before. “I want to climb the north face of the Eiger,” Weihenmayer says, referring to one of the world’s most treacherous climbs. “That’s definitely on my bucket list.”

A er that, Weihenmayer plans to take it easy for a while, spend some time with his family, carry on his work with No Barriers. “I’ll probably dial back the danger level some,” he says. “I’ve pushed things pre y far already.”

“Qui er,” I say.

“Yeah,” Weihenmayer replies, laughing.

“Low testosterone, I guess.”

IN HIS ELEMENT Left: Weihenmayer training for the Grand Canyon run; above: summiting Mount Cook

BOARDING PASS Ready to escape the dark hole and go on a no-barriers adventure of your own? Count on United to help you travel the world, whether you need special seating accommodation; use of a wheelchair, electric cart or other special equipment; or an individual safety briefing or other en route assistance. To learn how to arrange for services, go to united.com or see your travel professional.

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DECEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

06/11/2013 15:24

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A H E M I S P H E R E S

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GIFT GUIDE

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Featuring an APS-C X-Trans CMOS sensor and high-speed EXR Processor II, for exceptional image resolution and speed, the X-M1 provides power and performance in a compact lightweight body that is half the size of a traditional SLR. And, with a fast start-up time of just 0.5 seconds, the X-M1 is ready when you are. Available in brown, black and silver.

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A HEMISPHERES PROMOTION

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GIFT GUIDE

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11/11/2013 13:07

A HEMISPHERES PROMOTION

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ClassicShaving.com Throw away your cheap plastic razors and give your bathroom some class this holiday season—old-school shaving is back!

The gear your grandfather used is good for your skin (one blade means less irritation), good for the environment (disposables take decades to decompose) and good for your wallet (a quality razor lasts a lifetime and replacement blades are cheaper than cartridges). Try lathering with a badger hair brush and turn a tedious morning chore into a Zen-like ritual. classicshaving.com

Gino’s Awards An easy way to recognize your employees’ achievements, the original monthly awards program from Gino’s has been running since 1950. Simply provide a name each month online or by phone, and the company will mail you a freshly engraved plate. Then all you have to do is a ach it to your plaque while discarding the old—and Gino’s will even supply the screwdriver! The company offers great flexibility in the design and creation of its products; the full range of which can be seen on its website. ginosonline.com

Jackery Air The world’s thinnest premium external ba ery for smartphones, tablets and mobile devices, the rechargeable Jackery Air features a 5000mAh power capacity that can fully charge an iPhone 5 twice. With advanced power lock technology, it can hold its power for up to six months when unused, while its market-leading capabilities have seen it featured on The Today Show as well as the New York Times, Forbes, USA Today and over 150 other prominent media outlets. jackeryusa.com Julianna Rae Luxury sleepwear designer Julianna Rae’s sumptuous Il Cieli robe—taking its name from the Italian for “heavenly”—will be the gi that makes her holiday bright! With a cloud of so co on mini-terry fabric on one side and a cascade of the finest silk on the other, this robe makes every day a special occasion. Best of all, the robe is fully reversible with patch pockets and belt loops on both sides. United flyers will receive 10% off their purchase through December 2013 with promotion code ‘UA1225’. juliannarae.com

Hemi_Gft guide_ December2S.indd 119

11/11/2013 13:07

GIFT GUIDE

A HEMISPHERES PROMOTION

“Here are some of my favorite gift picks for this holiday season.

The women in your life will be forever grateful!”

–Lori Greiner From ABC’s Shark Tank

Tabletop Spinning Cosmetic Organizer by Lori Greiner Ge ing ready has never been easier than with this sharplooking spinning organizer, which allows you to see all your lipsticks, brushes, eye-liners, shadows and more at a quick glance. It takes up very li le space—measuring just 10.5x11x9.5 inches—yet can store over 100 pieces, meaning you can keep your whole collection together in one place.

Polar Loop By applying the passion and expertise that you’ve come to expect from Polar, the company has created a new, best-in-class “activity tracker” that’s perfect for ge ing a jump on your New Year’s resolution or as a gi for someone special this holiday season. The Polar Loop is a 24/7 fitness accessory that guides and motivates the wearer to move more. At the tap of a bu on, you can see calories burned, steps taken, the time of day, your daily activity goal and tips on how to reach it—all on a bright display lit up by 85 LEDs. polarloop.com

QVC.com 1-800-345-5788

Gold & Silver Safekeeper Mirrored Jewelry Cabinet

by Lori Greiner This stylish dressing mirror opens to reveal a jewelry storage cabinet fully lined with Silver Safekeeper antitarnish lining. Able to hold over 300 pieces of jewelry, it locks for privacy and can be adjusted through a variety of angles. Measuring 56.5x16x3.5 inches, the cabinet is available in black, white, oak, walnut or cherry; as well as a choice of wall-mount or freestanding versions.

QVC item # H11389 Price: $169.00 QVC.com 1-800-345-5788

LoriGreiner.com

Hemi_Gft guide_ December2S.indd 120

QVC item #H164200 Price: $29.82

Connect with Lori here: twi er.com/LoriGreiner facebook.com/Lori.Greiner1

11/11/2013 15:12

GIFT GUIDE MARKETPLACE

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • DECEMBER 2013

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12/11/2013 09:48

The Everyday Gourmet: Rediscovering the Lost Art of Cooking Taught by Bill Briwa, Chef-Instructor THE CULINARY INSTITUTE OF AMERICA

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13/11/2013 09:20

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Precision Cancer Treatment Cancer Treatment Centers of America® (CTCA) now offers expanded genomic tumor assessment, a form of precision medicine that may identify cancer treatment options many patients haven’t previously considered. This innovation reveals the DNA alterations that are driving the growth of a cancer, which better enables us to provide cancer treatment therapies that target changes in the tumor’s genomic profile.

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11/11/2013 15:17

No.36805_IMM_France_Parrot 1pp.indd 1

05/11/2013 09:45

ENTERTAINMENT

United’s Inflight Wi-Fi

Get online, in flight WE KNOW it is important to stay connected while you fly. For that reason, we are working to equip both our domestic and international aircraft with global, satellite-based Wi-Fi. You can follow our installation progress at united.com/wifi.

United Wi-Fi provides free access to united.com, the United app and the United Wi-Fi portal for live flight tracking, destination weather reports and more. Pricing for Internet access will vary based on flight segment.

To determine if your flight offers United Wi-Fi , you can go to united.com or United's mobile app and check the Inflight Amenities tab on the Flight Status & Information page for an upcoming flight.

How to connect: 1.

Look for the United Wi-Fi logo on the side of the aircraft as you board.

2. Once your flight crew says that it’s safe to use portable electronic devices, connect to the “United_Wi-Fi” hotspot.

3.

If you see a red icon, the satellite isn't connected yet—please wait.

If you see a green icon, continue to purchase Internet access.

4. Select an Internet access option and click “Purchase access.”

Video Streaming: Live video and streaming services such as Netflix are not supported.

Wi-Fi fleet

Additional Wi-Fi Access Information

Approximate Wi-Fi installations by November, by aircraft type

Satellite coverage: Outages may occur for a variety of reasons, such as weather, switching between satellite regions and certain government restrictions. For more information and to view a Wi-Fi satellite coverage map, go to www.united.com/Wi-Fi.

• A319: 87% complete • A320: 68% complete • B747: 74% complete • 757 p.s.: 100% complete

Technical requirements: Ensure your device is wireless enabled while in airplane mode. You must also enable JavaScript and cookies.

Follow our installation progress at united.com/wifi

Voice over Internet Protocol (VoIP): Use of VoIP is not permitted on board.

Rolling out global satellite-fed inflight Wi-Fi. fly the friendly skies

Wi-Fi on p.s.® flights United currently offers Gogo® Internet service exclusively on p.s.

Premium Service transcontinental aircraft flying between New York (JFK) and both Los Angeles (LAX) and San Francisco (SFO).

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • DECEMBER 2013

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Please see the United Wi-Fi homepage or www.united.com/Wi-Fi for a complete list of FAQs and terms and conditions.

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06/11/2013 15:40

ENTERTAINMENT

DIRECTV®

DIRECTV® IN FLIGHT allows you to select from

more than 100 channels of live television along with a full slate of blockbuster Hollywood movies, sitcoms and dramas. Purchase DIRECTV® and stay entertained for your entire flight.

What you want to watch

Available on select 737 and 757 aircraft

MORE THAN 100 CHANNELS You can get more than 100 of your favorite TV channels. From big movies to sports to family programming, we have the best in entertainment.

FOOTBALL FEVER Never miss a play inside the 20-yard line thanks to DIRECTV's RedZone Channel®, which brings you live looks at the final key plays of every big drive on channel 703.

Your favorite TV channels A&E ABC FAMILY ANIMAL BBCA BeIN BET BIG 10 BIO BLOOMBERG BOOM BRAVO CARTOON CBS CENTRIC CHILLER CLOO CMT CNBC CNN COMEDY COOK C-SPAN C-SPAN2 CW DEST DISCOVERY DISNEY DISNEY JR. DISNEY XD DIY E! ESPN ESPN CLASSIC ESPN2 ESPNEWS

265 311 282 264 620 329 610 266 353 298 237 296 390 330 257 308 327 355 202 249 232 350 351 394 286 278 290 289 292 230 236 206 614 209 207

ESPNU FOOD FOX FOX BUSINESS FOX NEWS FOX SPORTS 1 FOX SPORTS 2 FX FX MOVIE FXX GALA GOLF GOSPEL GSN H2 HALLMARK HGTV HISTORY HLN HUB INVESTIGATION LEARNING LIFETIME LIFETIME MOVIE LINK MILITARY MLB NETWORK MSNBC MTV MTV2 NAT GEO NBC NBC SPORTS NFL NETWORK NICK

208 231 398 359 360 607 618 248 258 619 404 218 338 233 271 312 229 269 204 294 285 280 252 253 375 287 213 356 331 333 276 392 220 212 299

NICK JR. NICK TOON NRB OUTDOOR OVATION OWN OXYGEN REDZONE REELZ RURAL TV SCIENCE SOAP SPIKE SPORTSMAN STYLE SYFY TBS TEEN NICK TENNIS TNT TRAVEL TRUTV TURNER MOVIE TV GUIDE TV LAND TVG UNI SPORTS UNIVISION USA VH1 VH1 CLASSIC WEA WGN WORD

301 302 378 606 274 279 251 703 238 345 284 262 241 605 235 244 247 303 217 245 277 246 256 273 304 602 625 402 242 335 337 362 307 373

HOW TO USE 1. Swipe your card* to begin.

2. Select your channel or movie and start watching.

3. Listen using your own headset or feel free to use the complimentary headset provided onboard. Your purchase is good for the entire flight, even when the aircraft door is open before takeoff, and you can turn the TV on and off throughout your flight. *MasterCard, Visa, American Express or Discover accepted.

TV and movies are complimentary in first class.

Exact channel numbers and programming schedules are subject to change. DIRECTV® service is not available on flights outside the continental United States. The signal may be lost in turbulence and/or if banking of the aircraft is required.

DIRECTV® and United Airlines are not responsible for interruptions of service that are beyond our control including, without limitation, acts of nature, power failure or any other cause. ©2013 DIRECTV® Inc. DIRECTV® and the Cyclone Design logo are registered trademarks of DIRECTV® Inc. All other trademarks and service marks are the property of their respective owners.

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DECEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

06/11/2013 15:41

What you want to watch MOVIES Choose from a lineup of top Hollywood films, including the new Jennifer Aniston comedy We're the Millers, the mythological journey Percy Jackson: Sea of Monsters and the latest adventure from everyone's favorite X-Man, The Wolverine. Other options include Planes, Man of Steel, Pacific Rim, Unaccompanied Minors and A Good Day to Die Hard.

GROUP DISCOUNT Traveling with family or friends?

Swipe the same card on three or more screens and receive $2 off each purchase.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • DECEMBER 2013

p133-135_HEM1213_DIRECTV.indd 135

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06/11/2013 15:41

ENTERTAINMENT

FILMS ARE SHOWN on flights of three hours

or longer. Movies are available on select 737, 747, 757, 777, A319 and A320 aircraft flights.

Schedules and selections are subject to change.

En el canal 10 encontrará películas y programas de televisión disponibles en Español.

Film & Television ENJOY THESE MOVIES AND SHOWS ON THE MAIN SCREEN

Films DOMESTIC AND INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS WILL SHOW THE FOLLOWING MOVIES EASTBOUND

WESTBOUND

DEC. 1-15

Austenland [T]

Percy Jackson: Sea of Monsters

DEC. 16-31

Jobs [T]

Despicable Me 2

DEC. 1-15

Jobs [T]

Despicable Me 2

DEC. 16-31

Austenland [T]

Percy Jackson: Sea of Monsters

NORTH AMERICA

HAWAII

SOUTHBOUND

LATIN AMERICA & CARIBBEAN

NORTHBOUND

DEC. 1-15

Percy Jackson: Sea of Monsters

Austenland [T]

DEC. 16-31

Despicable Me 2

Jobs [T]

• Flights between Chicago or Denver and Hawaii will show both films.

• Select films are shown on flights within Micronesia and on intra-Asia flights on 737 and 777 aircraft.

Television SELECT FLIGHTS MAY FEATURE THE FOLLOWING TELEVISION PROGRAMMING Parks and Recreation Brain Games Cupcake Wars

Big Bang Theory [T] Man Caves Who Do You Think You Are?

How I Met Your Mother [T] Whose Line Is It Anyway? [T] Tanked Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives

Mike & Molly [T] The Middle Chopped North America

[T] = Adult themes

136

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DECEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

06/11/2013 15:32

MOST FILMS HAVE BEEN EDITED for

airline use. However, customer discretion is still advised. Content guidelines are provided as a courtesy to help our customers decide whether to view a film.

CUSTOMERS ARE WELCOME to view their own video entertainment aboard a United aircraft as long as they are able to show that the programming has an MPAA rating of “R” or less.

Austenland [T] Jane Hayes is obsessed with all things Jane Austen, and when she decides to spend her life savings on a trip to an Austenthemed English resort, her fantasies of meeting a perfect gentleman become more real than she could have imagined.

FEATURING Keri Russell, JJ Feild, Jennifer Coolidge DIRECTED BY Jerusha Hess

Despicable Me 2 1 hr.

37 min.

Jobs [T] This is the true story of how tech pioneer Steve Jobs went from dropping out of college to founding Apple. In the process, Jobs became one of the most revered and influential creative entrepreneurs in recent history.

FEATURING Ashton Kutcher, Dermot Mulroney, Josh Gad DIRECTED BY Joshua Michael Stern

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • DECEMBER 2013

p136-139_HEM1213_FilmTV.indd 137

WHAT DO YOU THINK of our programming? We’re open to suggestions. Please send them to play@united.com or visit united.com/play.

The Anti-Villain League recruits Gru, a onetime criminal mastermind who’s now focusing on being a devoted father to his three girls, to help solve a case. Now, Gru finds himself up against a powerful new super criminal.

VOICES BY Steve Carell, Kristen Wiig, Benjamin Bratt DIRECTED BY Pierre Coffin, Chris Renaud

1 hr.

38 min.

Percy Jackson: Sea of Monsters 2 hr.

8 min.

Based on the best-selling series by author Rick Riordan, this is the story of Percy Jackson, the son of Poseidon, who teams with his demigod friends to retrieve the Golden Fleece, which has the power to save their home and training ground, Camp Half-Blood.

FEATURING Logan Lerman, Alexandra Daddario DIRECTED BY Thor Freudenthal

1 hr.

46 min.

137

06/11/2013 15:32

ENTERTAINMENT

Film & Television THE FOLLOWING FILMS ARE AVAILABLE ON INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS

INTERNATIONAL LANGUAGE TRACKS (G) Synchronisierte Versionen finden Sie auf Kanal 2 und 3 (wenn verfügbar).

(J) 日本語の吹き替えはチャンネル2番および３番でお聴き いただけます。（一部英語音声のみとなります。） (C) 如果可 用，在第2频道和第3频道将提供语言录音 (K) 채널 2,3에서 더빙버전이 제공됩니다

(G) German (J) Japanese (C) Chinese (K) Korean (T) Thai (M) Mandarin

B747 Mainscreen Programming FROM U.S. Austenland [T] 1 hr., 37 min.

Jobs [T] 2 hr., 8 min.

U.K.

2 hr.

The Heat [T] 1 hr., 55 min.

2 hr.

2 hr.

Austenland [T] 1 hr., 37 min. (G) Jobs [T] 2 hr., 8 min.

2 hr.

2 hr.

Austenland [T] 1 hr., 37 min.

2 hr.

Despicable Me 2 1 hr., 38 min.

2 hr.

Jobs [T] 2 hr., 8 min.

2 hr.

The Heat [T] 1 hr., 55 min.

Grown Ups 2 [T] 1 hr., 41 min.

2 hr.

Turbo 1 hr., 36 min.

Stuck in Love [T] 1 hr., 37 min.

2 hr.

Percy Jackson: Sea of Monsters 1 hr., 46 min. (J,K) 2 hr.

Austenland [T] 1 hr., 37 min. (J) 2 hr.

Despicable Me 2 1 hr., 38 min. (J,K) 2 hr.

Jobs [T] 2 hr., 8 min. (K) 2 hr.

The Heat [T] 1 hr., 55 min. (J,K) Grown Ups 2 [T] 1 hr., 41 min. (J,K) 2 hr.

Turbo 1 hr., 36 min. (J,K) Stuck in Love [T] 1 hr., 37 min. (K) 2 hr.

Percy Jackson: Sea of Monsters 1 hr., 46 min. (C) 2 hr.

Austenland [T] 1 hr., 37 min. (C) 2 hr.

Despicable Me 2 1 hr., 38 min. (C) CHINA & HONG KONG

The Heat [T] 1 hr., 55 min. (G) Grown Ups 2 [T] 1 hr., 41 min. (G) 2 hr.

Percy Jackson: Sea of Monsters 1 hr., 46 min.

JAPAN & SOUTH KOREA

Percy Jackson: Sea of Monsters 1 hr., 46 min. (G) Despicable Me 2 1 hr., 38 min. (G) 2 hr.

Turbo 1 hr., 36 min. (G) Stuck in Love [T] 1 hr., 37 min. (G) 2 hr.

AUSTRALIA

Percy Jackson: Sea of Monsters 1 hr., 46 min.

Despicable Me 2 1 hr., 38 min.

2 hr.

Turbo 1 hr., 36 min.

GERMANY

TO U.S.

2 hr.

Jobs [T] 2 hr., 8 min. (C) 2 hr.

The Heat [T] 1 hr., 55 min. (C) Grown Ups 2 [T] 1 hr., 41 min. (C) 2 hr.

Turbo 1 hr., 36 min. (C) Stuck in Love [T] 1 hr., 37 min. (C) 2 hr.

FROM JAPAN THAILAND & SINGAPORE *THAILAND FLIGHTS ONLY

Now You See Me [T] 1 hr., 55 min. (J,K) Monsters University 1 hr., 44 min. (J,T) 2 hr.

TO JAPAN The Way, Way Back 1 hr., 43 min. [T] (J,T) The Lone Ranger [T] 2 hr., 14 min. (J,T) 2 hr.

2 hr. = Two-hour block of television [T] = Adult themes

138

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DECEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

06/11/2013 15:32

DIGITAL MEDIA LOADING occurs between

the 25th of one month and the 5th of the following month. As a result, please understand if your flight features a different lineup before or after the start of each month.

Grown Ups 2

The Heat [T]

[T]

Lenny moves his family to the small town where he grew up, and on the last day of school, hilarious hijinks abound.

FEATURING Adam Sandler, Chris Rock, Kevin James DIRECTED BY Dennis Dugan

1 hr.

41 min.

Monsters University The prequel to Monsters, Inc. tells the story of how Mike and James overcame their differences to become best friends.

VOICES BY Billy Crystal, John Goodman, Helen Mirren DIRECTED BY Dan Scanlon

DIRECTED BY David Soren

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • DECEMBER 2013

R1_p136-139_HEM1213_FilmTV.indd 139

1 hr.

55 min.

Stuck in Love [T] 1 hr.

44 min.

Turbo When an underdog snail attains the power of super speed, he tries to make his dream of winning the Indy 500 come true.

VOICES BY Ryan Reynolds, Paul Giamatti, Samuel L. Jackson

An uptight FBI agent and a foul-mouthed Boston cop join forces to bring down a ruthless drug lord.

FEATURING Sandra Bullock, Melissa McCarthy, Demian Bichir DIRECTED BY Paul Feig

A father and his two kids, all of them writers at different stages of their careers, struggle with love.

FEATURING Greg Kinnear, Jennifer Connelly, Lily Collins DIRECTED BY Josh Boone

1 hr.

37 min.

The Way, Way Back [T] 1 hr.

36 min.

Shy 14-year-old Duncan comes into his own with the help of the free-spirited manager of the local water park.

FEATURING Steve Carell, Toni Collette, Sam Rockwell

1 hr.

43 min.

DIRECTED BY Nat Faxon, Jim Rash

139

11/11/2013 11:44

ENTERTAINMENT

Audio Programming Audio Mixes

Featuring songs by Roy Orbison, Cream, Fleetwood Mac and more

Featuring songs by Meat Loaf, Toto, Cheap Trick and more

Featuring songs by Duran Duran, Tiffany, Starship and more

Featuring songs by Brian Eno, Enya, Runestone and more

Featuring a chronology of songs by The Eagles

Featuring compositions performed by orchestras from New York to Stuttgart

Featuring songs by Martina McBride, Trace Adkins, Toby Keith and more

Featuring Chinese popular music, including cantopop and mandopop

Featuring songs by DJ Fresh, David Guetta, Duck Sauce and more

Featuring songs by Joss Stone, Snow Patrol, Josh Groban and more

Featuring songs by Ella Fitzgerald, Julie London, George Benson and more

Featuring songs by Exile, AKB48, Sukima Switch and more

Featuring songs by Super Junior, Girls’ Generation, Wonder Girls and more

Featuring songs by Johnny Pacheco, Sergio Mendes and more

Featuring songs by Paramore, Foo Fighters, Sublime with Rome and more

Featuring songs by Akon, Jordin Sparks, John Legend and more

Featuring songs by Elvis Presley, Bobby Darin, the Shirelles and more

Featuring songs by Miley Cyrus, Justin Bieber, Selena Gomez and more

Featuring songs by Adele, Beyoncé, Lady Gaga and more

Download the complete playlist at www.united.com/play.

Podcasts Stimulate your curiosity and learn something new during your flight. Some of the most engaging content from Quick and Dirty Tips™ is now available on aircraft with personal on-demand entertainment. Tune in and enjoy! Note: May be listed under “All music” on some aircraft.

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DECEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

06/11/2013 15:35

CHANNEL 9 Listen for your flight number to hear live communication between the flight deck and FAA air traffic control. This feature, unique to United, may not be available on all flights, including oceanic crossings with limited audio communication. Available at your captain’s discretion.

Audio Channels by Aircra CHANNEL

777

SELECT A320

A319 & A320

747

737 & 757-300

757 & 767

1

Movie (English)

Movie (English)

Movie (English)

Movie (English)

Movie (English)

Movie (English)

2

Today’s hits

Today’s hits

Today’s hits

Movie (Dubbed)

Today’s hits

Today’s hits

3

R&B

R&B

R&B

Movie (Dubbed)

R&B

R&B

4 5 6 7 8

Classical

’60s

Classical

Classical

Classical

Classical

Country

Country

Country

Country

Country

Country

’60s

Classical

—

’60s

’60s

’60s

’70s

’70s

—

’70s

’70s

’70s

’80s

’80s

—

’80s

’80s

’80s

9

From the flight deck

From the flight deck

From the flight deck

From the flight deck or R&B

—

From the flight deck or Modern rock

10

Movie (Dubbed)

Movie (Dubbed)

Movie (Dubbed)

Today’s hits

Movie (Dubbed)

Movie (Dubbed)

11

Modern rock

Modern rock

’60s

Teen pop

Modern rock

—

12

Latin

Latin

’70s

K-pop

Latin or J-pop on Micronesia flights

—

13 14 15 16 17 18 19

Dance

Dance

’80s

J-pop

—

—

Ambient

Ambient

Modern rock

C-pop

—

—

Artist spotlight

Artist spotlight

Artist spotlight

—

—

—

Jazz

—

—

—

—

—

J-pop

—

—

—

—

—

Easy listening

—

—

—

—

—

Teen pop

—

—

—

—

—

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • DECEMBER 2013

p140-141_HEM1013_Audio.indd 141

141

06/11/2013 15:35

ENTERTAINMENT

ALL THEME CLUES ARE IN BOLD If you fill in the crossword, please take the magazine with you so it’s replaced.

Answers on page 72

Crossword BUY OR RENT

BY GREG BRUCE

142

DECEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

1 6 10 14 18 19 20 21 23 24 25 26 27 29 31 33 34 35 37 39 40 41 43 45 47 49 51 54 58 61 62 64 65 66 67 69 70 71 73 75 76 77 78 81 86 89 90 92 93 94 96 98

Plays Door fastener Accomplishment Swear Party hearty “I had no ___!”

Bundle of hay Routine Go-between “Shucks!”

Symbol Indian condiment Key for a a spring-driven mechanism Rainbow goddess Put up Material for a whitesmith Down Under bird Mouth part Getting on in years To and ___ Road turn It holds the line Hold back, as breath Fire preceder?

Therefore Run ___ (go wild) Common card-table project Kmart competitor Remnant Holiday mo.

Stomach woe Sad song Penniless Small indentation Zoo heavyweight Light on Broadway It fits in a lock Irregular in quality Homeowner Liability Optometrist’s interest Bar topic The lot ‘’SNL’’ network It may be filled with offices High-pitched yell 50-50, e.g.

Toot “Ditto” Make well Out in front Military bigwigs 73 across alternative

p142-144_HEM1113_Puzzles.indd 142

99 100 101 103 105 106 108 109 111 115 118 120 122 124 125 126 128 130 132 134 136 138 139 140 141 142 143 144 145 146

Clumsy sort “The magic word” ’50s drive-in employee Shooting star Get an F Skillet lubricant Make a seam Nest part Epiphany figures Sentry’s cry Poetic adverb Fishing equipment Pay attention to Martini ingredient Formula ___ Ill-suited Wander Amplifier feature Ways and ___ TV’s “American ___” Declare untrue Co-op’s cousin Occur afterward Detective’s assignment Second word of many limericks Birch relative Keep an eye on “What ___ can I say?”

One-dish meal Long (for)

DOWN 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 22 28 30

Desk compartment Time in power Fifth or Park Patch up Tweak Lay low Wandering Lightly burn Place for a grilling Secretive org.

A head Removed Staying power?

Medical breakthrough Can. neighbour Condo offering Luxurious sheet material Acreage Mechanical man Smeltery refuse

32 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 53 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 63

Computer command 66 Word with puff or room Acorn producer 68 Leer at Render harmless 72 Sunday before Easter Dull 74 Acid neutralizer Deficiency 79 Slant Give the heave-ho 80 Give up Village People hit 82 Result 83 Bookkeeping entry “___ Man” 84 Roman-calendar day ___ about (rove) 85 Ill-___ gains Breakfast cereal 86 “Beat it!”

Nasty 87 “Young at ___ Blender sound Chinese restaurant offering 88 U.K. air branch 90 “Monty Python” airer “I” problem 91 Chapter in history Big ___ Conference 95 Control post Reed section member 97 Costa del ___ Come apart at the seams 100 Cellphone’s forerunner Ancestor 102 Working stiff “i” piece?

104 Wide-spouted jug Involve

Giant syllable Skyscraper unit From where To-do list Bridge support Hardwired Man’s castle Regarding Flat document __ wave Fusses Rot Spent Throw away Let off steam Mouse-like animal Convent dweller Stan who created Spider-Man 137 Bow wood

105 107 110 112 113 114 115 116 117 119 121 123 126 127 129 131 133 135

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ENTERTAINMENT

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BY REIKO MCLAUGHLIN

144

DECEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

1. EASY

2. MEDIUM

ANSWERS 1.

2.

3. MEDIUM

4. HARD

3.

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p142-144_HEM1113_Puzzles.indd 144

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05/11/2013 09:45

8:00 pm 9:00 pm 10:00 pm

7:00 pm

Route Maps

12:00 MON.

11:00 pm

Route lines do not reflect actual flight path

United/United Express

2:00 am

3:00 am

5:00 am

6:00 am

7:00 am

8:00 am

9:00 am

11:00 am

10:00 am

12:00 pm

4:00 am

ARCTIC OCEAN

ARCTIC OCEAN

Lulea Fairbanks Reykjavik

ICELAND

Umea Trondheim Ostersund Kristiansund Vaasa Molde SWEDEN

NORWAY

UNITED KINGDOM

CANADA

Khabarovsk Seattle Harbin Sapporo

Edinburgh

CHINA

Hohhot Beijing

Baotou

Guwahati

BANGLADESH

Agartala Dhaka BURMA

Niigata

SAN FRANCISCO

Qingdao

Nanning Macau Shenzhen Ishigaki Hanoi Hong Kong TAIWAN Chiang Rai LAOS Haikou Chiang Mai Vientiane THAILAND Yangon South China Khon Kaen Sea Luzon Island Manila Bangkok

5:30

Sendai

CAMBODIA VIETNAM Phnom Penh

Krabi Phuket Hat Yai Penang

9:00 pm

Saipan Rota

GUAM

MARSHALL ISLANDS

Kwajalein Pohnpei Chuuk (Truk)

Palau

FEDERATED STATES OF MICRONESIA

Bandar Seri Begawan

Kuala Lumpur

Chihuahua

Yap Kota Kinabalu

MALAYSIA

BRUNEI N

D

O

N

S

I

Majuro

Honolulu

Oran

MOROCCO Bermuda

San Antonio

CANARY ISLANDS

Tenerife Las Palmas

Dakar Banjul

MONT.

GUINEA BISSAU

NIGER

Astana Donetzk

GUINEA

Conakry Freetown

SIERRA LEONE

Monrovia LIBERIA

U. A. E.

BENIN TOGO

BRAZIL

ERITREA

Khartoum

CAMEROON CENTRAL AFRICAN REPUBLIC Douala

Accra Lome Abidjan Malabo

EQUATORIAL GUINEA

Sao Tome SAO TOME & PRINCIPE

Apia

WESTERN SAMOA

Port Vila

FIJI

Cairns

Entebbe

Nadi

2:00 pm

Luanda

to San Francisco

1:00

Adelaide

Sydney

to Los Angeles

Hamilton Nelson

Queenstown

Rotorua Napier-Hastings

Palmerston North Wellington Blenheim Christchurch

Dunedin

World time zones shown in Standard Time.

9:00 pm

10:00 pm

to New York (Newark)

to Washington (Dulles)

11:00 pm

1:00 am

2:00 am

3:00 am

4:00 am

Windhoek

Bermuda

Mahé

TANZANIA

Montevideo Buenos Aires

VENEZUELA

6:00 am

7:00 am

8:00 am

9:00 am

INDIAN OCEAN

SEYCHELLES

Dar Es Salaam

3:00 pm

4:00 pm

6:00 pm

5:00 pm

COMOROS MALAWI

Lilongwe Atlantic Harare Ocean

Manzini SCOTLAND

Bergen

NORWAY

FINLAND

Oslo SWEDEN

Helsinki

Stockholm ESTONIA

Stavanger MADAGASCAR Aberdeen

Maputo

Bloemfontein Maseru

SOUTH AFRICA

IRELAND LESOTHO

Aalborg

Gothenburg

LATVIA

DENMARK

Aarhus Billund Esbjerg

Riga Copenhagen Malmo

Palanga LITHUANIA RUSSIA

Vilnius Bremen Hamburg POLAND BELARUS East London Dublin WALES Berlin ENGLAND NETH. Hannover Cape Town Shannon Birmingham Amsterdam Warsaw Port Muenster Elizabeth Cork GERMANY Leipzig London BELGIUM Dresden Bristol London Brussels Prague (Gatwick) Katowice Cologne Frankfurt UKRAINE CZECH Cities served by select airline Luxembourg Nuremberg REPUBLIC SLOVAKIA partners that are not visible Stuttgart Munich Paris on the map: Salzburg Basel Linz Vienna Budapest FRANCE AUSTRIA Manzini, Swaziland Friedrichshafen Klagenfurt Cluj-Napoca SWITZ. Durban, South Africa Ljubljana Geneva Verona Lyon Zagreb Venice Bucharest Maputo, Mozambique Trieste BOS. ROMANIA Turin Milan Bologna Harare, Zimbabwe HERZ. Belgrade Genoa Florence Toulouse Sarajevo Lilongwe, Malawi La Coruna SERBIA BULGARIA Marseille Nice Pisa Ancona Split KOS. Bilbao Sofia Dubrovnik Skopje Istanbul Rome ALBANIA MAC. SPAIN Barcelona Porto Naples ITALY Thessaloniki Madrid PORTUGAL Valencia Alexandroupolis Palma GREECE Ibiza La Romana Palermo Alicante Lisbon Mediterranean Sea Izmir Sevilla Mikonos Faro Rhodes MALTA Luga Heraklion

Porto Alegre

Santiago

MALDIVES

Glasgow Edinburgh SWAZILAND NORTHERN Newcastle IRELAND UNITED Belfast Durban KINGDOM

Johannesburg

Curitiba Florianopolis

URUGUAY

5:00 am

BOTSWANA

Gaborone

Cordoba

COLOMBIA

12:00 MIDNIGHT

Rio de Janeiro

Coimbatore

SRI LANKA

KENYA

MOZAMBIQUE ZIMBABWE

NAMIBIA

Iguassu Falls

ARGENTINA

ZAMBIA Lusaka

Belo Horizonte

PARAGUAY

to to New York New York (La Guardia) (Newark)

Santiago Monterrey Samana Torreon Matamoros Nassau Santo Domingo Durango MEXICO Ciudad Victoria Aguadilla Havana Los Cabos San Juan Tampico Providenciales Aguascalientes Vieques Queretaro Tepic Cozumel St. Thomas Poza Rica Puerto Plata Tortola Jalapa Puerto Vallarta Ciudad del Grand Cayman Anguilla Manzanillo Veracruz Carmen Mexico Montego St. Maarten City Puebla Guadalajara Belize Bay Ponce Punta Antigua Oaxaca Kingston Morelia Cana St. Croix Roatan Pointe a Pitre Lazaro Mayagüez St. Kitts San Pedro Sula Cardenas Martinique Huatulco Nevis Puerto St. Lucia Tegucigalpa Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo Escondido Villahermosa Barbados San Andres Aruba Acapulco Bonaire Island Guatemala City NIC. Grenada Tobago San Salvador COSTA Caracas Port-of-Spain Managua RICA Panama City PACIFIC OCEAN Liberia PANAMA

Auckland

NEW ZEALAND

Route lines reflect flights operated by United Airlines and/or its regional partners. For accurate flight schedules, please see www.united.com. © 2013 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

to Cleveland

Saltillo

Tasman Sea

Melbourne

to Denver

HOUSTON (INTERCONTINENTAL) Hermosillo San Austin Chihuahua Antonio Piedras Guaymas Negras

Norfolk Island

Gold Coast

Perth

p147-152_HEM1213_Routemaps.indd 147

Campo Grande

Noumea

9:30 pm

8:00 pm

CHILE

Rarotonga

ANGOLA

Bangalore Chennai (Madras)

Kozhikode Cochin Trivandrum

BURUNDI

Bujumbura

10:00 am

Brasilia Goiania

Santa Cruz

Papeete

Niue

NEW CALEDONIA Brisbane

7:00 pm

FRENCH POLYNESIA

BOLIVIA

Mangalore

Nairobi

RWANDA

Natal Recife

Salvador Cuzco

Nuku’ Alofa

AUSTRALIA

6:00 pm

Lima

Pago Pago

Goa

Arabian Sea

Colombo

Lubumbashi

Coral Sea

YEMEN

SOMALIA

Kigali

Kinshasa

Raipur

ETHIOPIA

UGANDA

Libreville GABON CONGO

Pune

Mumbai

Addis Ababa

Juba

DEM. REP. CONGO

Yaounde

Kolkata

Nagpur

4:00 pm

NIGERIA

SOUTH SUDAN

INDIA

Ahmedabad

DJIBOUTI

Kano

Abuja Cotonou Port Harcourt GHANA Lagos

Maceió Darwin

Muscat OMAN

Sanaa

Asmara

SUDAN

Pointe Noire

Denpasar Bali

INDIAN OCEAN

KAZAKHSTAN

C

Krasnodar

SERB. Sofia KOS.

CHAD

1:00 pm

GAMBIA Bamako BURKINA FASO Ouagadougou Bissau

Fortaleza

PERU

6:00 pm

SAUDI ARABIA

MALI

SENEGAL

Manaus

Guayaquil

PAPUA NEW GUINEA

4:00

EGYPT

MAURITANIA Sal CAPE VERDE ISLANDS

ATLANTIC OCEAN

ECUADOR

Ekaterinburg

Jeddah

Quito

PACIFIC OCEAN

ALGERIA

WESTERN SAHARA

FRENCH GUIANA

Cali

Kosrae

A

Jakarta

Nador

Funchal

COLOMBIA

E

Algiers

12:00

Saltillo Monterrey Santo Torreon Nassau Domingo Durango MEXICO Tampico Aguadilla Los Cabos Aguascalientes Providenciales San Juan Queretaro Cozumel Puerto Mexico City St. Thomas Plata Veracruz Ciudad del Grand Cayman Puerto Vallarta St. Maarten Manzanillo Carmen Puebla Montego Antigua Belize Guadalajara Punta Bay Oaxaca Tuxtla Roatan Cana Morelia Huatulco Gutiérrez San Pedro Sula Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo St. Lucia Tegucigalpa Villahermosa Aruba Acapulco Guatemala City Bonaire Barranquilla NIC. Port-of-Spain Panama San Salvador Caracas COSTA City Managua Maracaibo Valencia RICA PANAMA Liberia Cartagena VENEZUELA SURINAME Bucaramanga GUYANA Medellin

Singapore

I

Madrid

Lisbon

Horta

Casablanca

Cebu

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)

WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES)

DENVER

Barcelona

PORTUGAL

NEW YORK (NEWARK)

HOUSTON Austin (INTERCONTINENTAL)

COMMONWEALTH OF NORTHERN MARIANA ISLANDS

PHILIPPINES

CLEVELAND

LOS ANGELES

International Date Line

6:00

Pyongyang

Komatsu Seoul S. KOREA TOKYO Pusan Fukuoka Osaka Nagoya Nanjing Cheju Okayama Hefei Nagasaki Shanghai Hiroshima Chengdu Wuhan Kumamoto Kochi Oita Ningbo Kagoshima Hangzhou Chongqing Matsuyama Changsha Wenzhou Miyazaki Guiyang Fuzhou Guangzhou Okinawa Kunming Taipei Xiamen Guilin Zhengzhou

BHUTAN

JAPAN

N. KOREA

Dalian

Tianjin

Moscow

Alma-Ata Black Sea Bishkek UZBEKISTAN GEORGIATbilisi Skopje Baku 5:00 Batumi Istanbul KYRGYZSTAN Tashkent Tirana ARMENIA Ankara AZER. TURKMENISTAN Kayseri ALB. GREECE Izmir Dushanbe TURKEYYerevan TAJIKISTAN Athens Antalya Adana Gaziantep Bodrum Ashgabat Erbil Tunis Malta Rhodes Ercan Larnaca AFGHAN. Islamabad CYPRUS Beirut Mashad Tehran TUNISIA Mediterranean Sea LEBANON Jammu Peshawar SYRIA Baghdad Damascus Tripoli Tel Aviv IRAN 4:30 Lahore Amritsar Amman IRAQ Benghazi Alexandria ISRAEL Chandigarh 3:30 Kathmandu JORDAN Kuwait 5:00 Cairo Delhi NEPAL PAKISTAN Dammam 2:00 pm QATAR Jaipur LIBYA Lucknow Bahrain Luxor Dubai Karachi Riyadh Doha Indore 5:30 Patna Abu Dhabi Rome

SPAIN

New York (La Guardia)

5:00 pm

4:00

Manchester

HER.

CHICAGO (O’HARE)

RUSSIA

St. Petersburg

Tallinn

n Sea pia as

U.S.A.

Shenyang

FINLAND Helsinki

Riga LAT. Copenhagen LITH. Malmo Vilnius Belfast Hamburg Gdansk Minsk Dublin Amsterdam BELARUS Berlin Shannon GERMANY Warsaw Brussels Cork POLAND Kiev Birmingham London Krakow Frankfurt Stuttgart UKRAINE Kosice Munich Paris MOLDOVA Chisinau AUSTRIA SWITZ. FRANCE Odessa Zagreb ROMANIA Geneva Milan BOS.- Belgrade Bucharest

9:30

Changchun

Oulu

2:00 pm

Stockholm

Glasgow

2:00

Turku

Oslo

Hudson Bay

MONGOLIA

Alta

GREENLAND ALASKA (U.S.)

Anchorage

8:00 pm

3:00 pm

2:00 pm

Tromso

RUSSIA

Ulaanbataar

1:00 pm

MIDNIGHT

United Seasonal Service United Future Service CITY United Hub (Red All Caps) Cities served Cities served by select airline partners Time zone boundary

INTERNATIONAL CITIES

1:00 am

12:00 SUN.

10:00 am

11:00 am

12:00 NOON

1:00 pm

Gdansk

Kaliningrad

Manchester

1213

06/11/2013 15:36

Cullaton Lake Ennadai Lake Prince Rupert

Route Maps

Smithers Terrace

Sand Spit

NORTH AMERICAN CITIES

Fort St. John

Route lines do not reflect actual flight path

Fort McMurray Prince George

to Fairbanks

INFORMATION

United Seasonal Service United Future Service CITY United Hub (Red All Caps) Cities served Cities served by select airline partners Time zone boundary

United/United Express Route

Customs & Immigration U.S. AND GUAM INTERNATIONAL ARRIVALS/ EXPEDITED SCREENING THROUGH CBP AND TSA

Grande Prairie Goose Bay

to Anchorage

Pacific Time Zone B R I T I S H 4:00

C O LU M B I A

Mountain Time Zone 5:00

Kamloops

Vancouver

Nanaimo

Victoria

Edmonton

Central Time Zone 6:00

A L B E R TA

Kelowna Penticton

Calgary

Arrivals in the U.S.

C A N A DA Newfoundland Time Zone 8:30

Wabush

MANITOBA

Gander

Deer Lake NEWFOUNDLAND & LABRADOR

S A S K AT C H E WA N

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection

U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) has automated the I-94 Arrival/Departure Record. If needed, travelers can obtain a copy of their I-94 on the Web after inspection by CBP at cbp.gov/I94.

Arrivals in Houston—OneStop Lanes Minimize Your Walk

OMB No. 1651-0111

Welcome to the United States I-94 Arrival/Departure Record Instructions This form must be completed by all persons except U.S. Citizens, returning resident aliens, aliens with immigrant visas, and Canadian Citizens visiting or in transit.

If you did not check any bags, proceed to the OneStop lanes, regardless of your nationality or final destination. If you checked a bag and are immediately connecting to another United-operated international flight, proceed to the OneStop lanes, regardless of your nationality.

Global Entry kiosks are available here.

Type or print legibly with pen in ALL CAPITAL LETTERS. Use English. Do not write on the back of this form.

This form is in two parts. Please complete both the Arrival Record (Items 1 through 17) and the Departure Record (Items 18 through 21).

When all items are completed, present this form to the CBP Officer.

Item 9 - If you are entering the United States by land, enter LAND in this space. If you are entering the United States by ship, enter SEA in this space.

5 U.S.C. § 552a(e)(3) Privacy Act Notice: Information collected on this form is required by Title 8 of the U.S. Code, including the INA (8 U.S.C. 1103, 1187), and 8 CFR 235.1, 264, and 1235.1. The purposes for this collection are to give the terms of admission and document the arrival and departure of nonimmigrant aliens to the U.S. The information solicited on this form may be made available to other government agencies for law enforcement purposes or to assist DHS in determining your admissibility. All nonimmigrant aliens seeking admission to the U.S., unless otherwise exempted, must provide this information. Failure to provide this information may deny you entry to the United States and result in your removal.

CBP Form I-94 (05/08) OMB No. 1651-0111

Arrival Record Admission Number

000000000 00

1. Family Name 2. First (Given) Name

3. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY)

4. Country of Citizenship 6. Passport Issue Date (DD/MM/YY)

Expedited Passport Control and Customs Clearance in the U.S.—Global Entry™

5. Sex (Male or Female) 7. Passport Expiration Date (DD/MM/YY)

8. Passport Number

9. Airline and Flight Number

10. Country Where You Live

11. Country Where You Boarded

12. City Where Visa Was Issued

13. Date Issued (DD/MM/YY)

14. Address While in the United States (Number and Street)

Saskatoon Castlegar Cranbrook Lethbridge Medicine Hat Spokane Kalispell

Seattle

WA S H I N GT O N

U.S. Customs Declaration

Pasco

Missoula

Eugene

Gaspe Baie-Comeau

Minot

OREGON

Medford Crescent City Eureka

Lewistown M O N TA NA Bozeman

I DA H O

NORTH DA KO TA

Redding

U N I T E D S TAT E S

Chico

Thunder Bay

Grand MINNE SOTA Forks

Dickinson Bismarck Billings Fargo Cody/ Boise Yellowstone Sheridan Idaho Falls Sun Valley SOUTH Gillette Worland Rapid City DA KO TA Jackson Hole

Klamath Falls

Eastern Time Zone 7:00

Williston

Pierre Huron

MAINE

North Bay

Sault Ste. Marie

Bangor Bar Harbor

Wausau Minneapolis Eau Claire Green Bay

Halifax

Traverse City Toronto

N E W YO R K

Syracuse

Killeen Kapalua

Pacific Ocean

0

50 50

100

Lake Charles Lafayette

Austin

Honolulu

0

LOUISIANA

College Station Alexandria

All travelers entering Guam under the terms of the Guam-CNMI Visa Waiver Program are required to complete an I-94 Arrival/Departure Record (one per person, including infants); an I-736 (one per person, including infants); and a Guam Customs Declaration (one per family).

All other travelers need only complete a Guam Customs Declaration.

All forms must be completed in English, in capital letters. Be sure to include the street name and number, city and state of your address in Guam. If you are transiting through Guam, you may write TRANSIT and your final destination country. The Customs and Border Protection officer will place the I-94 Departure Record in your passport after inspection. Make sure you return the Departure Record to the airline representative before boarding your return flight.

Portland Manchester

HOUSTON San Antonio (INTERCONTINENTAL) Beaumont/ Pt. Arthur

Maui

Kona

Hilo

150 Miles 200 Kilometers

Mobile

100

0

200

300

400 Miles

Harlingen Brownsville

100

200

300

400

500

Boston

Orlando Melbourne Treasure Cay Freeport Marsh Harbour Ft. Lauderdale/Hollywood North Eleuthera Governors Harbour Miami Bimini Nassau

Sarasota/Bradenton West Palm Beach

Gulf Of Mexico

Ft. Myers

MEXICO

Newark (Liberty)

New Haven Stamford New York (Penn Station)

Philadelphia Wilmington Washington, DC

BAHAMAS

TSA Pre

TM

F L O R I DA

Key West 0

is a TSA-managed and -operated expedited screening initiative available in many U.S. airports. Benefits may include no longer removing the following items when going through airport security: shoes, light outerwear/jacket, belt, 3-1-1–compliant bag from carry-on, and laptop from bag.

TSA Pre

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MileagePlus Eligible Service

Jacksonville

TM

Expedited Screening Through the U.S. Transportation Security Administration (TSA)

Gainesville Daytona

Tampa/St. Petersburg Corpus Christi

McAllen

Tallahassee

The following travelers are eligible for enrollment in Global Entry™: • Citizens and residents of the U.S. • Citizens of Mexico who hold a U.S. visa • Citizens of the Netherlands who are enrolled in Privium • Citizens of South Korea who are enrolled in SES (Smart Entry Service) • Members of NEXUS or SENTRI

TM

If you did not check any bags, proceed to the OneStop lanes, regardless of your nationality or final destination. Global Entry kiosks are not available here.

Codeshare/MileagePlus Partner Service

Pensacola

Ft. Walton Gulfport/ Beach New Biloxi Orleans

Laredo Route lines reflect flights operated by United Airlines and/or its regional partners. For accurate flight schedules, please see www.united.com. © 2013 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

100 150

Kahului

MISSISSIPPI

CBP offers the Global Entry™ program in order to expedite the processing of pre-approved, low-risk international travelers entering the U.S. Upon returning from travel abroad, Global Entry™–enrolled travelers may bypass the regular passport control line and proceed to the Global Entry™ kiosk. Global Entry™ program participants scan their machine-readable passport, U.S. permanent resident card or U.S. visa on the kiosk, place their fingertips on the scanner for fingerprint verification and make a customs declaration.

The kiosk will issue the traveler a transaction receipt and direct the traveler to baggage claim and exit. Kiosks are located at major U.S. airports, as well as at several CBP Pre-Clearance locations.

Application for enrollment in Global Entry™ is available at the Global On-Line Enrollment System: goes-app.cbp.dhs.gov. It costs only $100, which covers enrollment for a five-year period. The government will review the applicant’s information while a background investigation is conducted. Applicants undergo an interview with CBP officers at an Enrollment Center in the U.S. before final approval is granted.

MileagePlus compensates 2013 Global Services, Premier 1K and Premier Platinum members for the $100 Global Entry™ application fee (for new applications). Customers can verify their eligibility and receive their personalized code by visiting united.com/web/en-US/apps/ mileageplus/globalentry/default.aspx or united.com/premier.

Global Entry members who are U.S. citizens or Canadian citizens who are members of NEXUS are also eligible to participate in the TSA Pre program. TSA Pre allows select passengers traveling within the U.S. to qualify for expedited screening through TSA checkpoints at several airports. For detailed information, go to the CBP site, globalentry.gov.

Arrivals in Chicago—OneStop Lanes Minimize Your Walk

Train Routes

Baton Rouge

STAPLE HERE

Arrivals in Guam

V T. Plattsburgh N.H. Burlington

Kingston

M I C H I GA N

Appleton/ Fox Cities

Sioux Falls

Casper Chadron W YO M I N G

Atlantic Time Zone 8:00

N OVA SCOTIA

Albany Midland/ Boston Rochester Ithaca Muskegon Grand Saginaw Sarnia Buffalo/ Hartford/M A S S . Hyannis Sacramento Reno/Tahoe Rock Springs Milwaukee Rapids Niagara Falls Binghamton SpringfieldR.I. Flint I OWA Nantucket C.T. Providence Newburgh London JamestownElmira Scottsbluff Lansing SAN FRANCISCO Madison Salt Lake City Wilkes Barre/ Alliance New Haven Modesto White Detroit Windsor Laramie South Erie Bradford Scranton San Jose Long Island/Islip Vernal Hayden/ Plains NEBRASKA Cedar Mammoth Lakes Cheyenne Bend/Elkhart/ CLEVELAND Williamsport New York (La Guardia) Franklin Rapids/ Mishawaka Omaha Steamboat Fresno N.J. North Platte U TA H (J.F. Kennedy) State Des PA Iowa City Akron/Canton COLORADO Monterey Allentown NEW YORK (NEWARK) Grand Springs Moines Dubois College Visalia OHIO Peoria Junction Vail/Eagle DENVER Ft. Kearney Pittsburgh CA L I F O R N I A Moline Harrisburg Philadelphia Lincoln Moab Wayne Columbus Johnstown Aspen McCook Baltimore Altoona ILLINOIS I N D I A NA Morgantown Colorado Springs St. George MARYLAND D E L .

San Luis Obispo Montrose Dayton Gunnison/ Bakersfield WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES) Clarksburg Springfield Indianapolis Crested Hays Las Vegas Telluride Parkersburg Shenandoah Salisbury Butte Santa Maria Page/ Cincinnati WV Valley (Reagan National) Cortez Pueblo Durango KANSAS Topeka Kansas City Lake Powell St. Louis Santa Barbara Charlottesville Burbank Huntington Charleston Louisville Alamosa Garden City Lewisburg Richmond Farmington Great Bend LOS ANGELES Long Beach Lexington Beckley Lynchburg Ontario Dodge City Norfolk/Virginia Beach Flagstaff Wichita Orange County Roanoke V I R G I N I A KENTUCKY Newport News/Williamsburg Liberal A R I Z O NA Santa Fe Springfield Carlsbad Tri-Cities Regional Prescott Greensboro/High Point/Winston-Salem Palm Springs Raleigh/Durham NORTH M I S S O U R I Paducah Amarillo Show Low Tulsa San Diego Knoxville CA R O L I NA Albuquerque Nashville Northwest Greenville New Bern Phoenix/Scottsdale Oklahoma City Charlotte Arkansas Asheville Fayetteville/Ft. Bragg TENNESSEE Yuma ARKANSAS Greenville/ Jacksonville OKLAHOMA Spartanburg Chattanooga Memphis Lubbock Little NEW MEXICO Wilmington Tucson Rock Huntsville/ Columbia Florence Myrtle Beach Decatur SOUTH Atlanta CA R O L I NA Hobbs Charleston Dallas/ Augusta Birmingham El Paso Fort Worth Dallas (Love) Hilton Head Island Monroe Midland/ ATLANTIC Montgomery GEORGIA Odessa Jackson Shreveport TEXAS Savannah A L A BA M A OCEAN Tyler Riverton

N E VA DA

See Other Side

Ottawa

WISCONSIN

20. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY)

21. Country of Citizenship

CBP Form I-94 (05/08)

Moncton

Saint John

Sudbury

Houghton

Îles de la Madeleine

Fredericton

City

O N TA R I O

Duluth

000000000 00

19. First (Given) Name

Presque Isle Timmins Rouyn-Noranda

Admission Number

P R I N C E E DWARD Sydney NEW ISLAND B RU N SW I C K Charlottetown

Saguenay

OMB No. 1651-0111

Departure Record

18. Family Name

Bathurst

Glasgow

Helena Redmond

17. Email Address

All passengers (or one passenger per family) are required to complete a Customs Declaration before arrival in the U.S. Write in English, in capital letters. Be sure to include the Left, U.S. I-94 Arrival/Departure street name and number, city Record, which all Guam-CNMI Visa and state of your address in the Waiver Program participants must complete; right, U.S. Customs Declaration U.S. If you are transiting through the U.S., you may write TRANSIT and your final destination country. Please read both sides of the declaration and place your signature at the bottom of the form.

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection

Gulf Of St. Lawrence

Mont-Joli

Regina

Great Falls

North Bend

16. Telephone Number in the U.S. Where You Can be Reached

CBP Form I-94 (05/08)

Winnipeg

Portland

PACIFIC OCEAN

15. City and State

Who is eligible • U.S. citizens who are among select United Airlines MileagePlus members (eligibility is determined by the TSA) • U.S. citizens who are members of a Customs and Border Protection Trusted Traveler Program—Global Entry, NEXUS or SENTRI • Canadian citizens who are members of NEXUS • Passengers 12 and younger are allowed through TSA Pre lanes with eligible passengers TM

ATLANTIC OCEAN

The TSA uses random and unpredictable security measures to determine customer

eligibility for expedited screening on a perflight basis. Therefore, you are not guaranteed expedited screening for every flight even if you have applied to the program.

MileagePlus members may participate by joining a CBP Trusted Traveler Program.

Visit globalentry.gov to learn more.

Approved Global Entry/NEXUS/SENTRI applicants receive a membership/PASS ID number, also called a Known Traveler Number (KTN). Enter the KTN into your MileagePlus profile at united.com/tsaprescreening. United will transmit the KTN to the TSA along with the Secure Flight Passenger Data in your reservation so the TSA can determine your eligibility for TSA Pre .

TM

If the TSA determines a passenger is eligible for expedited screening, information will be embedded in the barcode of his or her boarding pass. When the TSA scans the barcode at designated checkpoints, eligible passengers will be directed to an expedited screening lane. Eligible

passengers will also see the TSA Pre logo on their boarding passes issued online, through some kiosks and on mobile boarding passes. If the boarding pass contains the TSA Pre logo (which will be located on the boarding pass near the customer’s name), the passenger can go to TSA Pre lanes. It’s important to note that while the TSA Pre logo will appear on all qualifying boarding passes, not all airports currently offer a TSA Pre lane.

TM

TM

TM

TM

TM

Tips for customers using Global Entry/ NEXUS/SENTRI to participate in TSA Pre All customers should ensure they are providing accurate Secure Flight Passenger Data (name, date of birth, gender, optional Known Traveler Number and optional Redress Number) in all reservations. Global Entry/NEXUS/SENTRI members should ensure that this data matches what was used on the CBP application, or they will not be selected to participate.

TM

For a list of airports and checkpoints with TSA Pre lanes, or to learn more, go to tsa.gov or united.com/tsaprescreening.

TM

George Town

600 Kilometers

1213

152

DECEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

CUBA

p147-152_HEM1213_Routemaps.indd 152

06/11/2013 15:36

Our Fleet leet

DATE 737-900ER UPDATE United continues es to take delivery of new, more comfortable efficient ft and more fuel-effi cient 737-900ER narrowbody aircr aircraft and has more than 70 of them on order. United currently operates a fleet of over 55 737-900ERs with an average age of less than three years. The 737-900ERs are the perfect complement to United’s 178 737-700, 737-800 and 737-900 aircraft.

New 737-900ERs come with the Boeing Sky Interior, which

includes a more spacious cabin design, larger overhead bins, b brighter reading lights and softer LED cabin lighting.

The 737-900ERs have fuel-saving winglets and are the most fuel-efficient and environmentally friendly narrowbody aircraft in United’s fleet. The new deliveries will be used to replace older 757-200 aircraft.

We look forward to welcoming you aboard a new 737-900ER soon.

Fleet Facts AIRCRAFT

CRUISE SPEED

CAPACITY

PROPULSION

WINGSPAN

747-400

567 mph

374 passengers

Four Pratt & Whitney PW4056 turbofan engines, rated up to 63,300 pounds thrust each

211 ft., 5 in.

777-200/-200ER

550 mph

Between 266 and 348 passengers

Two General Electric GE90 or two Pratt & Whitney PW4077/4090 turbofan engines, rated up to 94,000 pounds thrust each

199 ft., 11 in.

787-8

560 mph

219 passengers

Two General Electric GEnx turbofan engines, rated up to 69,800 pounds thrust each

197 ft., 4 in.

767-300ER/-400ER

540 mph

Between 183 and 242 passengers

Two General Electric CF6-80C2B or Pratt & Whitney PW4060 turbofan engines, rated up to 63,500 pounds thrust each

Up to 170 ft., 4 in.

757-200/-300

540 mph

Between 110 and 213 passengers

Two Rolls-Royce RB211-535 or two Pratt & Whitney PW2037 turbofan engines, rated up to 43,700 pounds thrust each

134 ft., 9 in.

737-700/-800/ -900/-900ER

530 mph

Between 118 and 167 passengers

Two General Electric CFM56 turbofan engines, rated up to 27,100 pounds thrust each

Up to 117 ft., 5 in.

A319/A320

530 mph

Between 120 and 150 passengers

Two IAE V2500-A5 turbofan engines, rated up to 27,000 pounds thrust each

111 ft., 11 in.

p.s.® PREMIUM SERVICE: We’ve started the process of a nose-to-tail refurbishment of our p.s. fleet to offer the international experience on routes serving JFK–LAX and JFK–SFO. The reconfiguration of our p.s. fleet is scheduled to be completed by late 2013. Upgrades include flat-bed seats in United BusinessFirst®, personal on-demand entertainment throughout, and an enhanced menu.

BOEING 767 FLEET UPGRADE: The 767 fleet upgrade is nearing completion, with new features like flat-bed seats in United BusinessFirst and personal on-demand entertainment throughout. United offers more 180-degree flat-bed seats than any other carrier in the world. By year end, all flights operated on internationally configured 747s, 757s, 767s, 777s and 787s will offer flat-bed seats.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • DECEMBER 2013

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INFORMATION

Terminal Diagrams TSA Pre

TM

IAH | HOUSTON GEORGE BUSH INTERCONTINENTAL AIRPORT TERMINAL C United United Express

USO D4

A

Turkish Airlines

Station

A7 C27

TerminaLink Connects Terminals A, B, C, D, & E via train

Station

Station

(Lower Level)

International Arrivals

A17

B25

B27

B18 B17

B26

C34

South Concourse

Gates B12-16 will be available in October

C41

C36

C40

E4

E8

E5

E7

4

E1

TERMINAL E United United Express

E16

E22

E17

E21

E18

E6

C39

E23

E15 E9

E3

C37

E1

2

1

4

0

E1

E1

E1 E2

C42

C35

E24

5 C4

C4

3

Under Construction

C4

B19

3

B24

C3

B23

B28

2

B29

(Lower Level) C29

C3

A20

B20

B67 B66 B65 B64 B62A B63A B63

1

TERMINAL A (South Concourse) US Airways

B21 B22

0

A18 B31 A19 B30

A24

C3

A27 A26 A25

C3

A30 A29

D1 0 D1 1 D1 2

C14

C23

D8

C15

C22

D9

C16

C21

D6 A

B87 B88

C20

D5

North Concourse

B85A B85 B84A-S

D6

B86A

B86

D4

A2 A1

B79 B77A B77 B76A B76

D3

A8

B79A

5

Bus Station (A2)

B80 B81A B81 B83A B83

C17

C2 4

A15 A11 A9

C2

A14 A12 A10

C2 6

United Express Air Canada

TERMINAL D United T E RAir M IChina NAL D Avianca United Lufthansa Singapore Airlines

C18 C19

D7

TERMINAL B United Express

D1 D2

TERMINAL A (North Concourse)

E20 E19

EWR | NEW YORK/NEWARK LIBERTY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT TERMINAL A United United Express Air Canada US Airways

TERMINAL C

B2

B3

B1

TERMINAL C United United International Arrivals United Express

28/28A 27/ 27A

A3

TERMINAL B United International Arrivals Lufthansa Scandinavian Airlines Singapore Airlines SWISS TAP Portugal

X 26 A/ /26

26

A2 25/25A 4A /2 24 23/23A 20/20A

AirTrain

127 128 126 139 125 124 138 123 137 122 136 121 5 120 13 134 3 13 32 1 131 0 13

98 99 97 96 94 95 92 91 80

115 114 112 110 108 104 102

113 111 109 107 105 103 101

81 83 85 87 88

90 72 75

70 71

73

82 84

86

74

(Upper Level)

A1 (Lower Level)

P4

Newark Liberty International Airport Station — Connection with Amtrak and New Jersey Transit

154

p154-156_HEM1213_TerminalDiagrams.indd 154

P1, P2, P3

DECEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

06/11/2013 15:37

ORD | CHICAGO O’HARE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

C40-C50

Train

9 1 3 5 7 9 1 3 5 B5 B6 B6 B6 B6 B6 B7 B7 B7 B77 9

United (international arrivals, except Canadian arrivals), ANA, Asiana Airlines, Copa Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa, Scandinavian Airlines, SWISS, Turkish Airlines

Concourse C

B7

1 3 5 7 9 1 B8 B8 B8 B8 B8 B9 B93 B95

0 2 4 6 8 0 2 4 B8 B8 B8 B8 B8 B9 B9 B9

TE R M I N A L 5 International

SFO | SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

9 1 3 5 7 9 1 3 5 7 B3 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B5 B5 B5 B5

A58-A68

Concourse B Concourse M

2 4 6 8 0 2 4 6 8 0 B4 B4 B4 B4 B5 B5 B5 B5 B5 B6

Pedestrian Bridge

Concourse B United United Express US Airways C28-C39

TERMINAL EAST

8

Concourse L

TERMINAL WEST

B3

TE R M I N A L 3

Air Canada Lufthansa

C2 C1 C4 C6 C3 C8 C5 E3 C10 C7 E2A C12 C9 E2 C16 C11 E1A C18 B2 B3B4 C15 E1 C18A B1 C17 B5 C20 B6 C22 C19 B7 C24 C21 B8 C26 (Lower Level) C23 C28 C25 B9 C30 B10 C27 C32 TE R M I N A L 2 B11 C29C31 United Express B12 B13 Air Canada TE R M I N A L 1 B14 US Airways B15 United B16 United Express B17 ANA B18 B19 Lufthansa B20 Elevated Airport B22 B21 Transport System

A40-A53

Concourse K

E10

Concourse C

A24-A39

Concourse H

Concourse A

Concourse E

5 7 9 1 3 5 7 9 1 3 5 7 B1 B1 B1 B2 B2 B2 B2 B2 B3 B3 B3 B3

Concourse G

F14 F12 F11 F10 F9 F7 F5 F4 F3 F2 F1

8 0 2 4 6 4 6 6 8 0 2 B1 B1 B2 B2 B2 B2 B2 B3 B3 B3 B3

Concourse F

DEN | DENVER INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

IAD | WASHINGTON DULLES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

TE R M I N A L 2

Under Construction

Gates 40-48

Concourse C

Concourse D

United United Express

United United Express

Gates 60-67 Train C2-4

78 79

TE R M I N A L 3

77

68 76

United United Express

80 82 84

81

86

83

88 90

85 89

Shuttle

71 72 73 73A 74 75

C1-3 A2

(Lower Level)

G92 G94 G96 G98 G91 G100 G102 G93

87

G101

TE R M I N A L 1 United Express US Airways

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • DECEMBER 2013

R1_p154-156_HEM1213_TerminalDiagrams.indd 155

C10-14

C5-7

C9-11

A4

A6

A3

A5

Shuttle stop on lower level

24

32 36

33/37 35 34/38 (37 and 38 on lower level)

I N T E R N AT I O N A L TE R M I N A L Gates A1-A12 United, Air Canada, Air China, G99 Air New Zealand, ANA, Asiana Airlines, Avianca, EVA AIR, Lufthansa, Scandinavian Airlines, Singapore Airlines, SWISS G95 G97

C6-8

A1

C18-26

C28-30

C17-27 A14

A22

A15

A21

Concourse A United Express Copa Airlines

D2-8

D10-16

D18-26

D28-32

D1-7

D9-11

D15-21

A25

A32

B38-B48

B35-B51 Shuttle Bus

Z Gates US Airways 1-4

D23-29

B63-B79

Concourse B ANA Austrian Lufthansa Scandinavian Airlines South African Airways Turkish Airlines

MAIN TERMINAL

155

11/11/2013 11:45

Terminal Diagrams CONT’D

TSA Pre

TM

LAX | LOS ANGELES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

CLE | CLEVELAND HOPKINS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Concourse C

TE R M I N A L 3

TE R M I N A L 2 Air Canada Air China Air New Zealand

TE R M I N A L 1 US Airways

C16

C19

12

C11

C14

C20

8 4B

United United Express Air Canada

C17

C18

71B

70B

73

72

75A 74 76

75B

69A 68B 69B TE R M I N A L 6 United Copa Airlines

Fourth Floor

36

38

45

35

31

33

77

TE R M I N A L 7 United United Express

Third Floor 27

26

D21 US Airways and some United international flights arrive at Concourse A.

GUM | GUAM INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

Satellite 2

21

17

16 15

52

11

12

Satellite 1

11

13

15

17

19 21 20

5

6

7

9

8

10

12

14

16

18

57 58

Pier A

C

Z

Pedestrian Tunnel

Gates Z11-25 A1-42

Pier A/Z

United Aegean Airlines Adria Airways Air Canada Air China ANA Asiana Airlines

156

p154-156_HEM1213_TerminalDiagrams.indd 156

TE R M I N A L 1 Austrian Croatia Airlines EGYPTAIR LOT Polish Airlines Lufthansa Scandinavian Airlines Singapore Airlines

TERMINAL 1 United (Chicago, Washington, D.C., San Francisco, Los Angeles) Aegean Airlines Air New Zealand Asiana Airlines Austrian Brussels Airlines Croatia Airlines LOT Polish Airlines Lufthansa South African Airways SWISS TAM TAP Portugal US Airways

TERMINAL 5 (post-security)

A/

er

Gates C1-C9

er

Pier D

LHR | LONDON HEATHROW INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

B27 B47 B46 B26 B48 B28 B45 B23 B25 B42 B44 B24 B22 B43 Pier B B1-B41 B10-B20

Pi

Gates D1-D54

Pi

TE R M I N A L 2

Food Court

(Lower Level)

Sky Line Train

Pier E

Café 4

14

FRA | FRANKFURT INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Gates E1-E26

MAIN TERMINAL United

Security Checkpoint

North Wing

18

Asiana Airlines 54 Austrian EGYPTAIR 55 Lufthansa 56 Scandinavian Airlines Singapore Airlines SWISS THAI Turkish Airlines

Concourse D United Express

D17

51 53

Terminals M, B and A

D7 D9 D8

22

34

South Wing

Air New Zealand

D10

D3 D2

23

47

TERMINAL 1 United Air Canada Air China ANA

(Lower Level) Underground Tunnel

C27

D28

TE R M I N A L 8 United United Express

24 25

32 46

(Lower Level)

C4

D25

NRT | TOKYO NARITA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 37

C25

D12 D11 D14

80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88

71A

67A

C3

C6

D4 D6 D5

67B

41

C8

C26

60 62 64 66 68A

C2 C5

C29 C24

61 63 65

43 42 44

C10

C23

TO M B R A D L E Y I N T E R N A T I O N A L TE R M I N A L ANA, Asiana Airlines, Lufthansa, Singapore Airlines, SWISS, THAI, Turkish Airlines

TE R M I N A L 5

C7

C21 C22

TE R M I N A L 4

C9

A/Z Gates 50-69 TERMINAL 5

South African Airways SWISS TAM TAP Portugal THAI Turkish Airlines US Airways

TERMINAL 3 Air Canada Air China ANA Blue1 EGYPTAIR Scandinavian Airlines Singapore Airlines THAI Turkish Airlines

Transfer Shuttle (pre-security)

TERMINAL 4 United (Newark, Houston) Gates 1-25

Secureside and non-secureside buses serve all terminals

DECEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

06/11/2013 15:38

No.36943_OEO_Energy_Solutions 1pp.indd 1

11/11/2013 15:01

INFORMATION

MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT Whether your next flight is on United or one of its Star Alliance partners around the world, you can use the terminal diagrams on pages 154–156 to plan your connection.

In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters and interterminal transportation.

Safety & Travel Assistance SAFETY INFORMATION NEED TO KNOW Customer safety is our primary concern. Our flight attendants are trained thoroughly in all safety procedures. But as expert as they are, in the event of an emergency they need help from you, the customer. You should be aware of the following:

NEVER PERMITTED The Federal Aviation Administration and the Transportation Security Administration prohibit hazardous materials in either checked or carry-on baggage.

Substantial fines can be imposed for violations.

EXIT Location of the nearest emergency exit

The correct procedure for exiting the cabin in an emergency

Where your oxygen mask will appear, how to start the oxygen flow and how to use the mask

Please look carefully at the safety information card located in the seat pocket in front of you

Liquid and solid explosives

Flammable gases and compressed gas

Radioactive and magnetic materials, corrosive and oxidizing agents

Poisons

Smoking is not permitted. Federal law imposes fines of $1,000 for smoking and up to $2,200 for any attempt to disable an aircraft’s smoke detectors. We prohibit the use of electronic simulated smoking devices (cigarettes, pipes, cigars, etc.) on our flights.

It is a violation of federal regulations to drink alcoholic beverages during a flight unless they are served by our personnel.

Also, airlines are forbidden to serve alcoholic beverages to anyone who appears to be intoxicated.

Travel assistance for delayed or canceled flights At United, our priority is safety and keeping an on-time schedule. On occasion, canceling or delaying a flight is the only option to ensure we maintain the highest safety standards.

Flight interruption? We will confirm you on the next United flight with available seats. Kiosks located in the concourse will assist you with information and a boarding pass, and will also help you stand by for an earlier United flight if one is scheduled. If you want to travel standby and aren’t boarded, we will transfer your name to the next United flight to your destination until you are onboard.

What about my bag? Baggage is boarded on the next flight if space is available, which means your bags may arrive before you. If so, United will secure the bag until you claim it. See a baggage claim representative.

What if I have to stay overnight? If a flight is canceled to address a mechanical issue or a similar issue within our control, we will provide

you with a hotel and meal voucher. For uncontrollable events—such as weather—we may be able to help you locate a local hotel at a discounted rate; however, United does not cover hotel or meal expenses in this event.

If we cannot retrieve your checked bag, overnight kits containing toiletries are available. Please see an agent.

What if the reason for my travel no longer exists? If as a result of the delay or cancellation you opt not to travel, call United reservations (1-800-UNITED-1) to learn about your options.

Help us help you stay informed. Sign up for Trip Alert, our messaging service that informs you if your flight is canceled or delayed, at united.com.

At home? Go to united.com for information or to check in and print your boarding pass.

Your safety and satisfaction are important to us. We appreciate your business and apologize for any inconvenience you may have experienced.

Staying Fit IN-FLIGHT FLEXIBILITY Knee Flexion: Lift knee toward chest, decreasing the amount of joint space at the back of the knee. Repeat with other leg.

Dorsiflexion: With heel on floor, point toes upward, decreasing the angle between the foot and the front of the leg. Repeat with other foot.

Eversion: With foot on floor, gently roll the sole of the foot inward. Repeat with other foot.

Knee Extension: Straighten knee, increasing the amount of joint space at the back of the knee to its full range. Repeat with other leg.

Plantar Flexion: Lift heel and keep toes pointed toward the floor, increasing the angle between the top of the foot and the front of the leg. Repeat with other foot.

Inversion: With foot on floor, gently roll the sole of the foot outward. Repeat with other foot.

158

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DECEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

06/11/2013 15:41

CUSTOMER CARE We are committed to providing quality service, and we want to hear about your travel experience with us. In addition, if you think a certain employee or an action taken on your behalf deserves special recognition, please let us know. Please give us your comments at united.com/feedback.

Use of personal electronic devices What is the new portable electronic device policy?

Small, lightweight devices may be used on Unitedoperated flights gate-to-gate, as long as the device is secured and has been switched to airplane mode and/or had the cellular data disabled. This policy applies to flights operating within the 50 U.S. states. The policy currently does not apply to flights departing from or arriving to international locations or flights operated by United Express®.

How do devices need to be secured or stowed?

Devices may be held in hand (not left unsecured around the seat) or placed in a garment pocket or in the seatback pocket, as long as the device is less than 2 pounds. Devices weighing more than 2 pounds must be stowed in approved carry-on baggage in the overhead compartment or under the seat in front of you during take-off, taxi and landing. In an emergency situation, all devices must be turned off and stowed.

Are there any exceptions to using personal devices under this new policy?

The captain may request that all devices be fully turned off in certain circumstances, such as for poor visibility landings. Please always listen to and follow crewmember instructions.

Does the new policy allow me to use a small notebook laptop?

No. The new policy does not apply to laptops or DVD players, which may only be used when announced by your flight crew.

Will I be able to use Wi-Fi below 10,000 feet?

Our aircraft equipped with satellite Wi-Fi are currently configured to allow Wi-Fi above 10,000 feet. However, we are exploring options to provide gate-to-gate Wi-Fi in the future.

When can I use in-seat power?

Use of in-seat power is prohibited during taxi, takeoff and landing.

Can I make calls or send text messages?

The use of cellular network services during the flight is not permitted by the Federal Communications Commission (FCC). The use of any voice application, such as a Webbased Voice over Internet Protocol (VoIP) service, in connection with or in-flight Wi-Fi service is not permitted.

ELECTRONIC DEVICES PERMITTED Small, lightweight PEDs (Personal Electronic Devices) may remain on from door closure to landing Cell phones should be in airplane mode or have cellular service disabled

NEVER PERMITTED Radio Receivers and/or transmitters including AM/FM/SW/CB and Scanners Televisions Remote-controlled toys Personal air purifiers

LIMITED PERMISSION

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

Laptops and DVD players must be stowed in approved carry-on baggage during taxi, takeoff and landing

All devices must be used with sound off or with headsets at all times

ONBOARD PHOTO AND VIDEO POLICY United Airlines strives to provide customers with a safe and pleasant travel experience. The use of any device for photography or audio and/or video recording is permitted only for capturing personal events. Any photography or recording of other customers or airline personnel without their express prior consent is strictly prohibited. Any photography (still or video) or recording (audio or video) of airline procedures or aircraft equipment is strictly prohibited, except to the extent prior approval has been specifically granted by United Airlines. This policy is not a contract and does not create any legal rights or obligations.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • DECEMBER 2013

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Rechargeable batteries have a risk of overload or fire when not stored properly. Rechargeable batteries should be stored in their electronic devices or properly protected to avoid contact with metal or other batteries during flight.

Advanced mobile phones, PDAs and other personal electronic devices with wireless capabilities may be used in flight when switched to “airplane” mode. A visible airplanedisabled mode should be identifiable and shown to a crew member upon request.

Flight attendants will notify mobile phone and two-way pager users when it is safe to begin placing or receiving phone calls or pages after landing. One-way pagers may be used to receive messages at any time.

PLEASE NOTE Customers may always use any medically prescribed physiological instrument, such as a hearing aid or a pacemaker. On aircraft equipped with in-ear headphones, customers with hearing-assistance devices may request a different headset from a flight attendant.

Passengers are allowed to use non-battery-operated headphones during taxi, takeoff and landing.

The in-seat power system may be used only above 10,000 feet. Use of the system is at your own risk. Do not remove batteries. We are not responsible for loss of data or damage to computer hardware or software.

PLEASE NOTE United strictly prohibits the modification or use of any object or device to alter or limit the functionality, permanently or temporarily, of any aircraft structure, seat assembly, tray table, etc. If you see a customer using any such device or object, please inform United personnel immediately.

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INFORMATION

MileagePlus THE WORLD’S MOST REWARDING LOYALTY PROGRAMSM

Earn miles. Use miles.

Shop with MileagePlus.

No matter what you’re shopping for, remember your miles. You can earn MileagePlus® award miles on purchases you make, or use your award miles to buy just about anything—from tablets to music to jewelry.

Earn award miles when you shop Earn miles for every dollar you spend through MileagePlus Shopping and get to your next award faster. For a limited time, earn 500 bonus miles for every $250 you spend, up to 2,500 bonus miles.* It’s quick, simple and secure.

Earn even more miles with your United MileagePlus Credit Card. Go to mileageplusshopping.com/deals.

Use award miles to shop Miles can get you more than just award travel—they can be used for gifts and merchandise from your favorite brands, including Apple,® Samsung, LG, Tumi, Dyson and Canon. With MileagePlus Merchandise Awards, you can use your miles to shop for thousands of the most-wanted items. Go to merchandiseawards.mileageplus.com.

MileagePlus Premier® program benefits overview MileagePlus features four status levels—each with its own thresholds for Premier qualifying miles and segments.

Go to united.com/premier for details. Below is a sample of current MileagePlus Premier benefits.

MileagePlus Premier member benefits Premier bonus award miles Complimentary Premier Upgrades confirmation (as early as)

Premier Silver

Premier Gold

Premier Platinum

Premier 1K

25%

50%

75%

100%

Day of departure

48 hours

72 hours

96 hours

At check-in

At booking

At booking

At booking

Instant upgrades on select full-fare economy tickets Premier AccessSM priority airport services Unrestricted access to Standard Awards Complimentary access to preferred seating in economy class (Economy Plus®) Lounge access when traveling internationally Payment code for Global Entry application fee Regional Premier Upgrades eligibility Global Premier Upgrades eligibility

Miles accrued, awards and benefits issued are subject to change and are subject to the rules of the United MileagePlus program, including, without limitation, the Premier® program (the “MileagePlus Program”), which are expressly incorporated herein. United may change the MileagePlus Program including, but not limited to, rules, regulations, travel awards and special offers or terminate the MileagePlus Program at any time and without notice. United and its subsidiaries, affiliates and agents are not responsible for any products or services of other participating companies and partners. United and MileagePlus are registered service marks. For complete details about the MileagePlus Program, go to united.com.

Global Traveler, GT Tested Awards, 2012 Best Frequent-Flyer Program, ninth consecutive year as voted by the readers of Global Traveler magazine. www.globaltravelerusa.com *Holiday Offer Terms: Now through 12/31/13 11:59 p.m. EST, receive 500 bonus miles with every $250 spent online through MileagePlus Shopping: up to 2,500 bonus miles. Returns, shipping and taxes are not eligible for bonus. Please allow 8–10 weeks for bonus miles to post to your account. The maximum number of bonus miles that can be awarded to each qualifying member through this promotion is 2,500 bonus miles. This offer cannot be combined with other bonus offers. Increased earning opportunities are for a limited time only and at the discretion of each individual merchant. Please check site daily for updates to increased earning opportunities.

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Alliances & Partnerships

GLOBAL REACH. WORLDWIDE RECOGNITION. EXCELLENT TRAVEL SERVICES. United and Star Alliance member airlines provide seamless air travel around the world. Star Alliance is the world’s largest global airline alliance, with more than 21,900 daily flights departing to 1,328 destinations. Customers have access to a comprehensive global network, frequent-flyer travel benefits and worldwide lounge access on all Star Alliance member airlines.

Star Alliance Member Airlines

The Star Alliance network Established in 1997 as the first truly global airline alliance to offer customers a worldwide travel network, Star Alliance aims to provide customers with a seamless travel experience across multiple airlines. Today, the Star Alliance network offers more than 21,900 daily flights to 1,328 destinations in 195 countries.

Earn miles and status faster With the largest airline alliance, you can earn MileagePlus award miles almost anywhere in the world you fly. Miles can be earned on most fares on almost any Star Alliance flight and can be credited to your account. Plus, the flight miles will count toward Premier® status.

Earn recognition around the world The more that you fly with United and the Star Alliance airlines, the higher your status can be. MileagePlus Premier status is recognized across the alliance as either Star Alliance Silver or Star Alliance Gold, with travel benefits worldwide. Go to united.com/staralliance for the Star Alliance Silver and Gold status benefits you can receive.

Award travel is now easier With Star Alliance Awards, you can use your MileagePlus award miles for award travel on any Star Alliance carrier worldwide. Or, use them for Star Alliance Upgrade Awards and upgrade to a premium cabin for maximum comfort (available on most Star Alliance airlines).

Other Airline Partners You can earn and redeem award miles on many of our other airline partners. See united.com/airlinepartners for specific information about each of our other airline partners.

• Aer Lingus • Aeromar • Amtrak • Cape Air

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• Great Lakes • Hawaiian Airlines • Island Air

• Jet Airways • Silver Airways

DECEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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06/11/2013 16:38

Chef’s Corner Deconstructed Beef Wellington with Green Peppercorn Sauce Beef Tenderloin

Green Peppercorn Sauce

4

8 oz. low sodium beef broth 6 oz. heavy cream 2 oz. cognac 3 oz. canned green peppercorns, drained 1 oz. shallots, finely chopped 1 clove fresh garlic, crushed 1 ½ tbsp mustard with grain 1 tbsp olive oil Salt and pepper, to taste

2 2 1

Executive Chef Gerry McLoughlin is the Senior Manager of Food and Beverage Design and Executive Chef within United’s culinary team. With more than 30 years of culinary experience, Chef Gerry oversees development of United’s menus throughout the world.

He is also a member of the American Culinary Federation.

Chef’s Tip This dish would be excellent for a special occasion. Serve with your favorite potatoes and roasted vegetables.

Yields 4 servings

each of 5-6 oz. beef tenderloin steaks (at least 2 in. thick so they do not overcook) tbsp olive oil tsp kosher salt tsp freshly milled black pepper

Directions 1 Pre-heat oven to 425F 2 Heat oil in heavy pan until very hot 3 Sear steaks for about 1 minute on each side and transfer to baking sheet 4 Season with salt and pepper 5 Bake for 15-20 minutes or until steaks reach 140 degrees internally 6 Remove from oven and allow the steaks to rest covered with plastic wrap before serving

Mushrooms with Thyme 1 1 10 ½ 1

tbsp unsalted butter tbsp olive oil oz. fresh white or mixed mushrooms, sliced tsp fresh thyme leaves, stemless and chopped Pinch of salt and pepper, to taste

Directions 1 Heat butter and oil in a pan over medium heat 2 Add the mushrooms, salt and pepper, and sauté for about 4 minutes 3 Lower the heat and continue cooking until the liquid evaporates and the mushrooms begin to caramelize (about 15 minutes) 4 Add the thyme leaves and remove from heat

CH EER S !

Directions 1 Heat olive oil in pan over medium 2 Sauté shallots and garlic for about 20 seconds 3 Add cognac off the heat and then cook for about 30 seconds 4 Add beef stock and reduce by half 5 Add cream and again reduce by half 6 Add mustard and peppercorns and bring to a simmer 7 Season with salt and pepper, to taste 8 Remove from heat and serve with tenderloin

Puff Pastry Squares 1 2 3

Follow the package instructions Cut into squares or different shapes and use the cuttings to make a design Bake per instructions

Courtesy of Doug Frost, Master Sommelier and Master of Wine

Nicolas Feuillatte Brut Reserve NV Champagne | Start your meal with refreshing Champagne. Feuillatte seems to be the favorite of sommeliers everywhere; it’s reliable, rich, well balanced and stylish and lengthy in the finish.

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PRINGLES ® ORIGINAL POTATO CRISPS $3.29

ALL DAY ON MOST NORTH AMERICA, LATIN AMERICA AND SELECT SOUTH AMERICA FLIGHTS OVER 2 HOURS. ALL FLIGHTS ACCEPT CREDIT/DEBIT CARDS ONLY.

TWO DEGREES® FOOD BARS $3.99 WILD GARDEN® HUMMUS DIP & MULTI GRAIN PITA CHIPS $3.99

HARIBO ® GOLD-BEARS GUMMI CANDY $3.99 SHEILA G’S™ SALTED CARAMEL BROWNIE BRITTLE $3.99 SWEET & SAVORY BISTRO BLEND TRAIL MIX $4.29

A portion of the proceeds from the Choice Menu program will go to organizations that promote breast cancer awareness and provide greater access to screening and support services. For information visit united.com/eatforgood.

snackboxes ALL DAY ON MOST FLIGHTS OVER 2 HOURS

TAPAS

$8.59

Marinated Olives | Roasted Red Pepper Bruschetta Spread | Wild Garden® Hummus | Rondelé® Peppercorn Parmesan Cheese Spread | Stacy’s® Pita Chips | Cream Crackers | Partners® Olive Oil and Sea Salt Crackers | Emerald® Natural Almonds | Brookside® Dark Chocolate with Fruit Flavors

CLASSIC

$7.49

Mott’s® Applesauce | Pepperidge Farm® Goldfish | Crackers | Pepperoni | Cheddar Gourmet Cheese Spread | Candy | Oreo® Cookies

SAVORY

$7.49

Tortilla Chips | Salsa | Vanilla Raspberry Fig Bar | Almonds | Nutella® | Graham Crackers | Dried Fruit

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breakfast ON MOST MORNING FLIGHTS DEPARTING AFTER 5:45 AM AND BEFORE 9:45 AM

FALL SELECTIONS

MORNING ENERGY SELECTION $6.99 Yogurt, granola, hard-cooked egg, pineapple and grapes BLT BAGUETTE $8.99 Multi-grain baguette with bacon, lettuce and tomato served with light mayonnaise SWEET CHEESE PASTRY Fillings may vary

$4.99

May be served warm on select aircraft

Available for purchase on flights over 3.5 hours within North America and to Latin America and select South America* markets. All flights accept credit/debit cards only. *Colombia and Ecuador

QUENCH YOUR THIRST with a

Bacardi ® Coke® and

for $7.99

Vegetarian Option Products may contain allergens such as egg, dairy, tree nuts, sesame, wheat and soy (see product label).

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Select Markets

ke ts

THESE WARM MEALS ARE AVAILABLE ON FLIGHTS BETWEEN HAWAII AND CHICAGO, HOUSTON, NEWARK AND WASHINGTON, D.C.

ar tm c e sel d in e v Ser

lunch & dinner ON MOST AFTERNOON AND EVENING FLIGHTS DEPARTING BETWEEN 9:45 AM AND 8:00 PM

ARTISAN CHEESE SELECTION $7.99 Three cheese selection with crackers, fruit spread, grapes and chocolate MEDITERREANEAN-STYLE SALAD $9.29 Grilled zucchini, squash and bell pepper with olives, feta cheese, hummus and pita TURKEY & SWISS CRANBERRY BAGUETTE $8.99 Cranberry baguette with turkey, Swiss cheese, lettuce and tomato served with light mayonnaise

breakfast ON MOST MORNING FLIGHTS DEPARTING BEFORE 9:15 AM

BISTRO SCRAMBLE $9.99 Scrambled eggs with potatoes, turkey sausage, asparagus and Swiss cheese

lunch & dinner ON MOST AFTERNOON AND EVENING FLIGHTS DEPARTING AFTER 9:15 AM

CHICKEN PENNE PASTA $9.99 Penne pasta with chicken breast, cherry tomato sauce, sautéed squash and Parmesan cheese

Latin America DEPARTING CARIBBEAN, CENTRAL AMERICA, MEXICO, COLOMBIA AND ECUADOR

COBB SALAD WRAP $8.99 Tortilla filled with chicken, hard-cooked egg, blue cheese, lettuce, scallion and ranch dressing CHICKEN AND SWISS FOCACCIA $8.99 Tomato focaccia with chicken breast, Swiss cheese, tomato and arugula

breakfast ON MOST MORNING FLIGHTS DEPARTING AFTER 5:45 AM AND BEFORE 9:45 AM

May be served warm on select aircraft BREAKFAST SANDWICH $5.99 Egg, grilled ham and cheese sandwich May be served warm on select aircraft

lunch & dinner ON MOST AFTERNOON AND EVENING FLIGHTS DEPARTING BETWEEN 9:45 AM AND 8:00 PM

CHICKEN WRAP $8.99 Chicken breast and vegetables wrapped in a tortilla with Thai aïoli sauce HAM & SWISS SANDWICH $7.99 Ham and Swiss cheese on a pretzel roll served with mayonnaise and mustard

Fresh selections may vary due to product availability

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beverages NON -A L C OHOL IC Complimentary and available on most flights.

Coca-Cola,® Coke Zero,® Diet Coke® Mr. & Mrs. T’s® Bloody Mary Mix Sprite,® Sprite Zero® Seagram’s®: Ginger Ale, Minute Maid®: Apple Juice, Seltzer Water, Tonic Water Cranberry Apple Juice Cocktail, Orange Juice Freshbrew® Kova Coffee Mott’s® Tomato Juice Decaffeinated Coffee Dasani™ Bottled Water Hot Tea J

J

J

J

J

J

J

J

J

J

AVAIL ABLE ON SELECT ROUTES

Cappuccino, Espresso and Specialty Regional Teas A L C OHOL IC Alcoholic beverages are available on most flights. Complimentary in premium cabins. Priced as shown in economy cabin.

Beer and wine are complimentary in economy on trans-Pacific international flights and on flights within Asia and Micronesia.

Sake is also complimentary on trans-Pacific flights to/from Japan.

SP E C I A LT Y C O C K TA I L MOST NORTH AMERICA FLIGHTS E XCEPT HAWAII

Salvador’s® Margarita $7.99 MOST U. S. MAINL AND FLIGHTS TO/FROM HAWAII

Trader Vic’s® Mai Tai $9.99 BEER $6.99 Budweiser,® Miller® Lite, Heineken® WINES (187ml) $7.99 House Red and White INTERNATIONAL & MOST FLIGHTS TO/FROM HAWAII Not available on intra-Pacific flights

Sparkling Wine PREMIUM WINE (375ml) $15.99 Beverage vouchers may not be used to obtain premium wines

AVAILABLE IN ECONOMY CABINS JFK TO/FROM LA X AND SFO J

J

Meiomi Pinot Noir, Napa Valley, California St. Supéry Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, California

SPIRITS $7.99 Tito’s Handmade VODKA® Bacardi® Superior Rum Bombay Sapphire® Dry Gin Jim Beam Black® Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey J

J

J

J

J

J

LIQUEURS & COGNAC $7.99 Courvoisier® VSOP Fine Champagne Cognac J

J

J

Dewar’s® “White Label®” Blended Scotch Whisky Jack Daniel’s® Tennessee Whiskey Canadian Club® Whisky

Baileys® Irish Cream

MOST INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS J

J

Grand Marnier® DISARONNO® Amaretto*

J

Crown Royal® Canadian Whisky

*Also domestic premium cabins Alcohol may be served to customers over 21 only.

Menu and beverage options may vary by flight. We apologize if your preferred choice is not available.

We are proud to recycle aluminum cans, newspapers and plastic bottles on eligible flights.

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No.36336 Hi Health innovations.indd 1

04/07/2013 16:10

SWISS WATCHES TO DREAM OF FOR 160 YEARS

TISSOT LUXURY AUTOMATIC GENT TISSOT LUXURY AUTOMATIC LADY DIAMONDS 80 HOURS OF POWER RESERVE Experience more at www.tissotshop.com

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28/10/2013 14:53