United Airlines Hemispheres Magazine July 2009

HEMISPHERES THREE PERFECT DAYS: SYDNEY // THE HO CHI MINH TRAIL BY MOTORBIKE // GWEN STEFANI’S SWEET ESCAPE

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contents

“Where else but in this beach town–with–brains do bankers and hard-bodied surfers coexist in such harmony?

(The secret: as often as not, they’re the same people.)”

—–

3 PERFECT DAYS | P. 84

70

RUBBLE ROUSERS

Detroit’s getting a bright, funky face-lift thanks to a group of artists drawn to the city’s ridiculously affordable housing.

BY MATT THOMPSON PHOTOGRAPHS BY PETER BAKER

76

RIDING WITH MR. THONG

Fifty years after Vietnam’s Ho Chi Minh Trail was hacked through the jungle, Hemispheres explores it from the seat of a motorcycle.

BY MIKE GUY PHOTOGRAPHS BY AIDAN DOCKERY

84

3 PERFECT DAYS: SYDNEY

In the other city by the bay, surfers, scenesters and highbrow culture mavens all stay happily occupied. Sydneysiders, it turns out, are all of the above.

P H O T O G R A P H BY M I C H A E L D U N N I N G /G E T T Y I M AG E S

BY STEVEN KURUTZ

The Sydney Opera House

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JULY 2009 | UNITED.COM

departments mentts

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10 Contributors 13 Voices Scott Dolan helps make sure all of United’s operations work in perfect harmony.

16 Connections United flies into action raising money for breast cancer support.

18 Wish You Were Here 21 Dispatches Notes from all over 25 Goods Gizmos and gear 28 Whirlwind Five hours in San Francisco

31 Whereabouts For No Doubt leading lady Gwen Stefani, Palm Springs is a sweet escape.

33 News What to see, where to stay, when to go

38 Child Star Eleven-year-old New Yorker Akash Mehta raises money for his peers around the globe.

40 Beyond Babylon Fifty years ago, Chris Blackwell founded Island Records, home to Bob Marley, U2 and plenty of other greats.

By Jason Fine

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42 Who’s Sorry Now? Born of heartache, animated feature Sita Sings the Blues is catching critics’ eyes. // By Willa Paskin

44 Blast from the Past A slew of new books look back at 1969’s “giant leap for mankind.” // By Drew Grant

47 Quick Silver Aston Martin’s new car may be the most beautiful four-door in the world.

By Mike Guy

49 Liberté, Egalité, Cassoulet! French epicurean movement Le Fooding sets its sites on U.S. shores.

By Jay Cheshes

53 The New Texas Tea One Austin entrepreneur is making boutique vodka the Lone Star drink of choice. // By Edward Lewine

53

67 End of the Line A train conductor finds an unlikely friend.

By Sergi Pàmies

69 Artifact A souvenir from the field 99 PLAY Movies, television and audio programming

110 Route Maps & Terminal Diagrams 122 Crossword, Sudoku and Quiz 128 Beverages & Food 130 In Transit Who’s sitting next to you?

COVER IMAGE

Brian Cronin, briancronin.com

57 Never Say Goodbye When did Major League Baseball players forget the art of the graceful exit?

By Jason Gay

WRITE TO US:

Hemispheres.ed@ink-publishing.com HEMISPHERES MAGAZINE

61 Chili Dog to Go During a trip to Mexico, a pair of siblings make a mangy mutt a member of the family.

By Nina Burleigh

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C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P, P H O T O G R A P H S BY H E M I S P H E R E S , VA N D I T T H AVO N G , C O U R T E SY O F S T R AT I S A N D B E VA , C O U R T E SY O F V I C E R OY A N G U I L L A

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contributors

HEMISPHERES EDITOR IN CHIEF Aaron Gell EXECUTIVE EDITOR Mike Guy ASSOCIATE EDITORS Adam K. Raymond, Layla Schlack ART DIRECTOR Rob Hewitt DESIGNER Ellie Clayman PHOTO EDITOR Erin Giunta

Photographer PETER BAKER grew up in Michigan and currently lives in Ann Arbor. When not running his graphic design studio, Elevated Works, he loves “shooting around Detroit,” like he did for “Rubble Rousers” (page 70). “I see a ton of creative potential in the city and its people, and have thought seriously about buying my own $100 house.” He's also part of the 50 States Project, in which 50 photographers spend a year exploring their respective environs.

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Jane Black, Jason Fine (music), Jason Gay Porter Fox (fiction), Sarah Horne CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS Spencer Heyfron, John Lawton, John Loomis, Jeremy Simons EDITORIAL INTERN Peter Koch GROUP EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Michael Keating US EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Orion Ray-Jones INK PUBLISHING, 68 Jay Street, Suite 315, Brooklyn, NY11201 TEL: +1 917-254-4865 FAX: +1 917-591-6247

Author and journalist NINA BURLEIGH has traveled the world investigating mysteries for four nonfiction books, including her latest, Unholy Business: A True Tale of Faith, Greed and Forgery in the Holy Land. She’s also written for the New Yorker, Time, and The Washington Post. When she’s ready to relax, she likes sunny beaches. In fact, she was on her way to one when she picked up her new pup, Chili (page 61), who “weighs at least 30 pounds and still hasn’t grown into his paws.”

Hemispheres.ed@ink-publishing.com www.hemispheresmagazine.com ONLINE TEAM Salah Lababidi, Martin Buhr, Andy Shaw ADVERTISING PUBLISHER Steve Andrews SENIOR ACCOUNT MANAGERS Catherine Donnelly, Catherine Hanson, Kate Waters, Mildred Pennington, Rachel Mello, Ryan Smith REGIONAL REPRESENTATIVES COLORADO Lauren Grillo

After modeling his new motorcycle gear in the office, Hemispheres executive editor MIKE GUY embarked on his first trip to Vietnam to go “Riding with Mr. Thong” (page 76).

A journalistic jack-of-all-trades, he’s written about sports, cars, celebs and travel for titles including Rolling Stone, Men's Journal and Travel + Leisure. Beset by a flu that rendered him “so sick I was shaking” just before he set out, he made it back in one piece and says Vietnam was breathtaking.

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STEVEN KURUTZ wrote Like

a Rolling Stone: The Strange Life of a Tribute Band, and, like a rolling stone, he’s traveled far and wide writing for The New York Times, Spin and Details.

Recently, his travels brought him to Sydney, where he spent “3 Perfect Days” (page 84). While there, “I found myself returning again and again to the Royal Botanic Gardens,” he says. “There’s something civilized and calming about having acres of well-tended vegetation in the middle of a big city.”

Given clients like The New York Times, Harpers, The Atlantic and The Guardian as evidence, GRAHAM ROUMIEU’s plan to go to art school to “draw actual naked people, instead of taking calculus exams,” looks to have been a very smart move. In addition to illustrating “Dispatches” (page 21), he’s authored several books, including Bigfoot: I Not Dead, 101 Ways to Kill Your Boss, and Cat & Gnome.

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Ink Publishing (sales), Capital Building, 255 East Paces Ferry Road, Suite 400, Atlanta, GA 30305 TEL: +1 888-864-1733 FAX: +1 917-591-6247

INK PUBLISHING CEO Jeffrey O’Rourke COO Hugh Godsal PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Simon Leslie

HEMISPHERES is produced monthly by

MATT THOMPSON is a graduate student and freelance writer

living in New Hampshire. Ever the scholar, he has a theory that the aftermath of the subprime mortgage crisis will bring about the birth of artist colonies just like the Detroit scene he depicts in “Rubble Rousers,” on page 70. “As a former New Yorker, I spent most of my time in Detroit drooling over the cheap real estate,” he says. “I stayed in a friend’s inexpensive rental, which happened to be designed by Mies van der Rohe.”

Ink Publishing. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions expressed in HEMISPHERES are not necessarily those of the Publisher or United Airlines, and United Airlines does not accept any responsibility for advertising content. Any images are supplied at the owner’s risk. Any mention of United Airlines or the use of United Airlines logo by any advertiser in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company or its products or services by United Airlines.

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A MASTER-PLANNED COMMUNITY BY HASEKO HOMES, INC. Homes depicted are 60 Series models, most of which will overlook the golf course. The ownership of a home in Ka Makana shall not include any rights to use the golf course. Any membership and other use rights will be subject to such terms and conditions as may be established by the golf course owner. Images are representative only and do not depict the actual settings. All prices are subject to availability and change without notice. The Hoakalei Marina Resort, including many major project amenities such as the marina, shopping promenade, beach club and Ka Makana swimming and tennis club, is currently in the planning stages and is subject to change without notice. These materials shall not constitute an offer to sell or solicitation of offers to purchase in any state where prior registration is required. Offered by: Haseko Realty, Inc. 91-1001 Kaim–alie Street, #205 ‘Ewa Beach, Hawai‘i 96706 Tel: 808-689-7772 ext 281.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2009

voices

Op Music For Scott Dolan, United’s senior vice president of airport operations, the complex matrix of an airport terminal is a little like a symphony— and every player has a part.

P H OT O GR A PH BY U N IT E D A IR L IN E S CR E AT IV E SE RV IC E S

// BY ROD O’CONNOR

IT’S 4:34 P.M. ON A FRIDAY, and travelers are queuing up for the 5:05 p.m.

flight from O’Hare to Minneapolis. The gate agent begins the boarding process, and the Global Services, 1K and First Class customers step forward onto the red carpet, wheeling their weathered carry-ons onto the jet bridge. A few minutes later, seating groups one and two are called.

Meanwhile, outside on the tarmac, employees dart purposefully on “tugs” as the final pieces of luggage are loaded. This aircraft will depart on time, maybe even a few minutes early.

Looking on approvingly from the gate’s floor-to-ceiling windows is a man in a blue blazer sporting a closely cropped haircut and more than a tinge of early gray. He is Scott Dolan, United’s 38-year-old senior vice president of airport operations, and he lives for moments like this. He can’t resist stopping to watch the symphony of moving parts that is an airport in action. “It takes many people to get an airplane out on time,” he notes. “Every minute, every flight counts.”

Dolan has an office at United’s Operations Center in Elk Grove Village, Ill., but he doesn’t see it often. Instead, he spends many of his days walking through airports all over the world, looking for any challenges during check in, any hold-ups at the gate, any opportunities to help his teams make the machine hum a little smoother.

For United, Dolan manages and supports the activities of all operating groups at the airports. That means an army of more than 16,000—from the customer service representatives in the lobbies and gates to the ramp service employees, ground equipment and facility mechanics, and operation control employees.

Dolan and his team are charged with making sure flights depart on time and the customers’ baggage arrives with them—not to mention oversight of the hundreds of thousands of tons of freight and mail United

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JULY 2009 | UNITED.COM

voices

transports each year. In a constant battle for perfection, they analyze the load factor of every plane and assign staff accordingly. “We’re looking for the quickest and safest way to turn that airplane—how efficiently can the team pull together to have customers deplane, unload baggage, clean the plane and get the next fight ready. It starts with the planning.”

The operations of an airport comprise a staggeringly complex matrix with countless moving parts, but one Dolan is eminently qualified to manage. Before joining United five years ago, he oversaw the operations of Atlas Air and Polar Air Cargo, as chief operating officer of its parent, Atlas Air Worldwide Holdings. He also spent several years at General Electric, where he trained in the legendary Six Sigma quality program, a management approach that uses analytics to maximize efficiencies in any given business situation.

Dolan is self-effacing when discussing his own career.

But he becomes animated when the subject turns to

The timely tracking and delivery of luggage and other cargo is at the top of United’s priorities to improve its customers’ overall experience.

any given moment. “We know in advance how many people are likely to be checking bags, how many are familiar with the self-service kiosks, so we can make key staffing decisions,” he explains.

The airline also employs service directors, peer leaders who watch the check-in area, sometimes via video monitors, to ensure that every line is moving to set standards.

move the manpower to where the work is.”

These systems are put to the ultimate test during the summer, when more flights mean more crowded airports. And then there’s the unpredictability of the warmer weather, when thunderstorms can cause missed connections or cancellations.

With so many factors

Dolan spends many of his days walking through airports, looking for any challenges, any opportunities to make the machine hum a little smoother. “analytics,” or the study and use of business data—in particular, how United is working to improve customer service from the moment a passenger buys a ticket.

Based on buying patterns, United can tell what types of travelers—from seasoned “road warriors” to once-a-year vacationers—are likely to be coming through the door at

When the line grows, agents are rotated in to help out. And if the wait becomes shorter than expected, employees can be sent where they’re needed.

To help facilitate this fluid staffing, the service directors communicate with their teams via BlackBerry. “We used to staff the gates and wait for the work to come,” Dolan explains. “Now, we

beyond the airline’s control, Dolan says it’s vital to have recovery plans in place.

To that end, United is empowering its people to offer a goodwill gesture in real time to customers who experience a disservice.

Depending on the situation, that customer can then go online to select dollaroff e-certificates, Mileage

Plus bonus miles or other compensation.

Moving quickly through the concourse to make his own flight to San Diego, Dolan pauses in front of a flight information display.

He can’t pass one without taking a scan of the expected arrivals and departures.

Right now three flights from LaGuardia are delayed because of heavy winds. He pulls out his BlackBerry, which lets him drill into the flight numbers at any airport around the world.

Still, Dolan admits that no amount of technology can ever replace old-fashioned hustle—especially in the summertime. “When one of our ramp service employees goes out of their way to run a bag onto a plane just in time, in the grand scheme of the hundreds of thousands of bags we move in a day, it may seem small,” he says. “But to that family going on vacation, it’s very important.”

P H OT O GR A PH BY U N IT E D A IR L IN E S CR E AT IV E SE RV IC E S

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JULY 2009 | UNITED.COM

connections

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United to Empower Employees join to support families touched by breast cancer ON AMERICAN CALENDARS, May 10 was a day to honor mothers. For more than 2,000 United

employees, family members and friends, it was also a day to honor grandmothers. And sisters.

And aunts. And daughters. It was a day to walk and to raise money for individuals and families affected by breast cancer.

For the fifth consecutive year, teams from throughout United’s network joined together in a big way to show their support for the Breast Cancer Network of Strength Walk to Empower.

United’s team has raised $1.8 million for the organization since 2005.

In San Francisco, Jim Keenan, senior vice president of United Services, served as Walk to Empower Chair, leading the first Network of Strength walk in the City by the Bay. “This is such a meaningful cause to all of us here at United, and I was so proud to be a part of it this year,” Keenan says. “Everyone has different reasons for getting involved, but the end result is truly remarkable.”

First-time participant Grace Puma, United’s senior vice president of Strategic Sourcing, and her team, Pink ProCURE, raised more than $42,000. “This was a collective effort,” Puma says.

“We were surprised and inspired by the overwhelming support we received.”

Breast Cancer Network of Strength, formerly known as Y-ME National Breast Cancer Organization®, provides immediate emotional relief to anyone affected by breast cancer. Its mission is to ensure—through information, empowerment and peer support—that no one faces breast cancer alone.

Visit networkofstrength.org

Over the past year, 22 United flight attendants faced with a customer exhibiting symptoms of cardiac arrest came to the customer’s aid using an Automated External Defibrillator (AED).

These special heroes— Tanya Gallardo, Dwayne Myles, Lindsey McGuire, Darcy Lacy, Diane Hose, Carmen Koch, William Chen, Nancy Armbruster, Jennifer Rose, Elizabeth Sommers, Patricia Wollak, Darla Anderson-Lynch, Monique Eddins, Lana Bostrom, John Krumpe, Kelly Mowery, Stephanie Andre, Joseph Toral, Brent Oberbillig, Lynda Lovingood, Nathan Nguyen and Jonathon Ostrow—were honored at the second annual Hearts United recognition luncheon on May 14 in Chicago. The luncheon was attended by two customers who credit flight attendants who came to their aid with saving their lives.

“We’re among true heroes, people who probably woke up one morning the way they had started their day dozens or hundreds of times before,” said managing director-Onboard Service Gina DeLazzer, master of ceremonies for the event.

“But their lives have not been the same since.”

Since 1999, our flight attendants have used the AED protocols to save the lives of nearly 40 customers.

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P H O T O G R A P H BY U N I T E D A I R L I N E S C R E AT I V E S E RV I C E S

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2009

wish you were here

ON THE NOSE Climbers scale Thomas Jefferson’s stately schnoz at the Mount Rushmore National Memorial. What for? Turn the page to find out...

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2009

dispatches NOTES FROM ALL OVER

Moscow

Patriot Games

Nearly 20 years after the Soviet Union’s collapse, a massive cavalcade of armaments is once again rolling through Red Square.

PRECEDING PAGES:

Search and rescue rope access training

“Quaint” may seem like the wrong word for an event that features intercontinental ballistic missiles, supersonic fighter jets and state-of-the-art air defense systems. But there is something a little dated about the May 9 Victory Day parade rumbling across Red Square in Moscow. A nationalistic ILLUSTRATIONS BY GRAHAM ROUMIEU ritual of the Cold War era, the annual parade once inspired American children to practice “duck and cover” drills in school; these days, however, it’s more like a Fourth of July barbecue, but with anti-aircraft missiles instead of Slip ’N Slides and watermelon.

This year’s Victory Day parade, only the second since the collapse of the Soviet Union, features 9,000 soldiers marching in full regalia, more than 100 battle tanks, nearly 70 planes and dozens of mobile ballistic missiles. At the height of the Cold War, it was rumored the Soviets padded their parade arsenal with cardboard missiles, but these look all too real. The most jaw-dropping moment is the flyover, when helicopters, fighters and strategic bombers roar over the center of town at an altitude of 900 feet. The parade goes off without a hitch. The weather is beautiful, though it’s been reported that the air force prepared for any eventuality: Ten planes are on standby with chemicals to disperse clouds.

The Red Square festivities are open only to a select few—President Dmitri Medvedev, Prime Minister Vladimir Putin, military brass, WWII veterans and, of course, journalists. The average Muscovites filling the streets can merely watch the assorted military paraphernalia crawling through town on their way back to base. Experts say that the Russian military isn’t what it used to be, but the weapons still make a civilian want to duck and cover.

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“I didn’t expect to be moved,” says Yulia Ovcharova, a wide-eyed, towheaded, 24-year-old restaurant manager watching from Tverskaya Street, “but when I saw the power of these weapons, I felt a surge of patriotism all the same.”

After the parade comes the all-night party with extravagant firework displays and plenty of vodka.

Even if the holiday seems a tad passé—and menacing—to foreign eyes, the cheers that ring out all evening long indicate that locals still feel its relevance.

One grizzled WWII vet, who gives his name as Ivan, stands in front of the Bolshoi.

“There are fewer of us every year,” he says, “so it means a lot that the country hasn’t forgotten our sacrifice.”

—JAKE RUDNITSKY Mumbai

INDIAN STYLE

At some point during the 35-day Mumbai shoot of Bollywood Hero, Chris Kattan, the former Saturday Night Live star best known as one of the

head-bobbing “Night at the Roxbury” twits, became superstitious. So on the advice of his sultry Bollywood co-star Neha Dhupia, Kattan visited a local astrologer, who gave him a good-luck bracelet, a longstanding tradition.

“Since then, I’ve lost my cell phone and twisted my ankle,” Kattan says, standing on the sweltering set and guzzling bottled water between takes of a complex musical number. “But the astrologer says it’s like acupressure: It has to hurt a little before it gets better.”

Since leaving his full-time SNL gig in 2003, Kattan has had more than his share of career pain. While his “Roxbury” compadre Will Ferrell has rocketed into the comedy stratosphere, Kattan has wandered a wilderness of straight-to-nowhere flicks.

But Bollywood Hero, an IFC miniseries, may be his return to form. In it, Kattan plays a cocky young would-be action hero who, rejected by Tinseltown, decides to try his luck in India.

For the first time in a while, Kattan says, his timing is right. Slumdog Millionaire took top honors at the Oscars just as filming commenced.

As he talks, young extras in tuxedos practice hip thrusts; others dressed in pink miniskirts wait for their cue from choreographer Longinus Fernandes, who worked on Slumdog.

“Teaching Chris the Bollywood dance was difficult,” Fernandes says, “but he does funny stuff very, very well.”

Kattan, who is short and thin, with pronounced lips and sunken eyes, has warmed to the outlandish dancing style. “It’s a little overacting, and a little celebration, and it’s all very improvisational and freestyle, so as long as you know how to move you’re okay.”

“It’s a good time for Bollywood,” notes

Inside Harvard’s School of Engineering and Applied Running on Sciences, Professor David Fumes Edwards perches on a desk holding a ChapStick-shaped inhaler he’s invented for the purpose of ingesting food in particle form. He calls it Le Whif, and a handful of students have been invited to sample the device in several zero-calorie chocolate flavors (chocolate mint, chocolate mango, chocolate raspberry, etc.).

Previously known for his inhalable tuberculosis vaccine, the shaggy-haired biomedical engineering prof has applied his knowledge of aerosol science to gastronomy, developing food particles—small enough to be inhaled but too large to enter the lungs—which are then delivered via Le Whif. “It is not a bong,” says Edwards, 48, putting his lips to the tube. “Gentle, gentle.”

He mouths tiny sips of air; this is how one whiffs.

Justin White, a junior anthropology major, coughs after an enthusiastic hit of chocolate mango. Nervous laughter fills the classroom. Nobody wants to be the one who can’t handle his whiff. “There’s always a small learning curve,” Edwards says. “People think more is better. But pleasure can be captured in an essence.”

Which is the point. It’s time to “move on” to a new form of degustation, he says. And while Le Whif won’t fill you up, it satisfies cravings in a way that just smelling food never will.

Windsor Hanger, a history of science major, takes a delicate pull of chocolate cinnamon. “You can feel the chocolate going into your mouth,” she says.

Edwards sees Le Whif as a dieting doohickey, a new form of candy and a gimmick, to be sure, but also as a instrument of culinary revolution. Today, chocolate.

Tomorrow, steak frites. He’s partnered with Michelinstarred chef Thierry Marx of Chateau Cordeillan-Bages in Bordeaux to roll out other whiffable foods over the course of a yearlong world tour that will include stops throughout Europe and Asia (a limited run of the $2 device is available now at lewhif.com). “They’ll especially love it in Paris, now that you can’t smoke in cafes,” Edwards predicts. “You see people puffing on their fingers. Now they can whiff.”—ALYSSA GIACOBBE Cambridge, Massachusetts

dispatches

executive producer Ted Skillman.“This is an exotic and foreign place, but that’s only on the surface.

Underneath, where it really matters, things are actually pretty much the same as anywhere else.”

“It’s exactly like Saturday Night Live,” Kattan agrees.

“Only with much more color.”

— JERRY PINTO Philadelphia

ALL ABOUT THE BENJAMINS

In the main room of a 19th century brick building in Philadelphia, a dapper colonial cavalryman lifts an ale stein to his lips (though due to the early hour and the setting—the still-functioning Arch Street Meeting House—it doesn’t actually contain ale). Then he offers up a favorite quote from his “friend” Ben Franklin: “Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

The crowd of onlookers— most of them sporting more modern-day attire, such as jeans and T-shirts—laugh approvingly.

It’s a rainy Monday, and the so-called Benstitute, a school for historical reenactors run by Historic Philadelphia, Inc., is in session, the pews filled with new recruits for its intensive three-week boot camp.

The nonprofit corporation was founded in 2005 to bring a modicum of structure to what had been, up until then, a haphazard approach to historical reenactment in Philly’s tourist-choked Old City. Before, independent costumed characters— rogue Ben Franklins and Besty Rosses—roamed the cobblestone streets clad in cheap makeshift costumes, disseminating inaccurate information and occasionally

23

getting snippy with visitors.

Now, Philly’s “History Makers” are carefully vetted and schooled in the period and their chosen characters’ personal backstories. They’re also trained in parrying awkward questions and directing tourists to the best cheesesteak and closest ATM. The widely acknowledged alpha-Franklin is Ralph Archbold, who has been playing the role since 1973.

But Archbold is just one

of four Bens. The stable also includes three George Washingtons, four Betsy Rosses and four Thomas Jeffersons.

“I’ve been doing this for eleven years,” says Virginia Loomis, who plays Franklin’s daughter, her first upperclass character after years as a Scottish barmaid. She smooths her heavy dress.

“Working-class clothes are more comfortable,” she says.

—MELISSA MARSHALL

On a Thursday evening in early spring, Studio Beautymix in Fred Segal’s Santa Monica outpost is packed well past closing time for the launch party of a machine called the U*tique, which looks like an automat as reimagined by Judy Jetson.

The invitation-only crowd lines up for special cocktails, like the Pink Pick-Me-Up (Eboost Daily Vitamin Supplement and Lotus Vodka) and the Glow-Forth (Glowelle Raspberry Jasmine Beauty Drink and Barefoot Bubbly). Makeup artist Beau Nelson provides “Lips to Lust After” tutorials, and David Kirsch, fitness guru to Anne Hathaway, offers consultations and samples of his new “super juice” supplement.

Despite such diversions, the star of the evening is the eye-catching U*tique. A retail wonder offering 50 topshelf products displayed in glowing porthole windows, it’s stocked tonight with such must-haves as Bliss Triple Oxygen Instant Energizing Mask, ModelCo Tan in a Can, and Vosges Haut Chocolat Exotic Chocolate Minis.

If all this seems like a lot of fuss for a vending machine, that’s because the U*tique is not—repeat, not—a vending machine. As the company’s hard-charging 29-year-old CEO Mara Segal explains, “There is a clear distinction between a vending machine, where you use coins, push buttons and a product drops, and an automated retail platform which involves complex robotics for fragile items, a touch-screen interface, and a centralized network.” Fair enough!

Although the U*tique, which Segal promises will soon be popping up in hotels, gyms, spas and airports worldwide, is meant to help you “skip those lines and meddling clerks,” according to its website, it’s not exactly working according to plan tonight. “There are too many people!” gripes attendee and LA blogger Caroline Pardilla.

“Good luck trying to get to it.”—EMILY FOLEY

Santa Monica, California

Shop Talk

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2009

goods

25

Deep Impact Thanks to the iDive300, gadgets can finally take the plunge.

BY ADAM K. RAYMOND // PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN LAWTON

Picture this: You want to play Super Monkey Ball, rock out to Fleetwood Mac or peruse family photos, but there’s one problem—you’re 50 feet underwater on a scuba trip. What to do? First, ask yourself why you can’t put aside your beloved gadgets long enough to enjoy a good dive, and then get your hands on an iDive300. With its sturdy polycarbonate construction and impenetrable watertight seal, the iDive will protect your iPhone (or other MP3 player) up to 300 feet underwater while delivering push-button control of the touch screen with an integrated microprocessor. Fancy.

But the real joy of the iDive300 is its ability to give divers something to do during those torturously long and immensely boring decompression stops. So now when you’re hanging out, waiting for the inert gases to exit your bloodstream, you can relax with some tunes. Handel’s Water Music, perhaps?

SEA CHANGE

iDive300 / $350 / h2oaudio.com

JULY 2009 | UNITED.COM

goods

26

3

4

2

1

5

1. PB&J NEVER LOOKED SO GOOD

Aren’t you a little old for a lunchbox?

Not if you sport New Wave Enviro Products’ very mature, very chemical-free, very stainless steel little number. / $15 / newwaveenviro.com

2. I WANNA ROCK

3. PICTURE THIS

Since when does putting sticks and rocks in your water make it cleaner?

Since Design Within Reach came out with their sleek glass and steel Water Pitcher, which uses charcoal and Japanese Iouseki stones to

The only thing more impressive than the size of Kodak’s Zx1 pocket camcorder (think: deck of cards) is the quality of the HD video it shoots.

Now if only it could make phone calls.

deliver filtered, mineral-rich agua. / $110 / dwr.com

/ $150 / kodak.com

4. KEYS TO THE KINGDOM

5. TAKE MY KNIFE, PLEASE

Laptops keep getting smaller (if not laps themselves).

Samsung’s N120 10.1-inch notebook stands out with a standard-size keyboard that actually accommodates adult fingers. / $440 /

Convenience and eco-friendliness aren’t always compatible. But Aspenware brings you a step closer to zen with its wooden cutlery, which is disposable and completely biodegradable. / $4 /

samsung.com

aspenware.ca

28

Start at the city’s scenic westernmost edge and gawk at the swooping parasailers on Ocean Beach.

Then duck into the old-timey Camera Obscura (1096 Point Lobos Ave.; giantcamera.com) for some 15th century optical magic. ( :30 ) Flag a cab and cruise through Golden Gate Park, slowing at the bison paddock for a glimpse of the city’s cutest thousand-pound pets. Zip up to the top of the observation tower at the de Young Museum for a dizzying 360-degree view of San Fran’s rippling hills (50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Dr.; deyoungmuseum.org). ( 1:15 ) Dash to Haight Street, ground zero for the hippie movement in the ’60s and still a grungy, youthful strip. The neighborhood is home to legions of vintage shops, including Amoeba Music (1855 Haight St.; amoeba.com), one of the country’s best (and last) record shops. ( 1:45 ) Local, seasonal, organic. These buzzwords are on menus all over town, and at the newly renovated Magnolia Pub and Brewery (1398 Haight St.; magnoliapub.com) you can sample all three in the form of locally brewed beer, asparagus and rabbit sausage. ( 2:30 ) After lunch, walk to Alamo Square Park to see the iconic “Painted Ladies,” a row of colorful Victorian houses launched to stardom in the opening credits of Full House. ( 3:00 ) BOARDING PASS

Drop in to the 18th century Mission Dolores Chapel (3321 16th St.; missiondolores.org), the oldest building in the city, for a speedy history lesson. Sprint through the adobe building, then peek outside into the leafy cemetery where San Francisco’s earliest leaders are buried. ( 3:45 ) Reward your efficiency with some organic ice cream from Bi-Rite Creamery (3692 18th St.; biritecreamery.com), known for its exotic flavors and rabid hipster following. Eat a scoop of balsamic strawberry among the palm trees in nearby Mission Dolores Park. Beware of stray Frisbees. ( 4:10 ) Hop the BART subway at the 16th Street Mission Station and head over to the Ferry Building’s indoor marketplace. After scoring tasty souvenirs (artisanal cheeses, locally made chocolate), slurp oysters and champagne at Hog Island Oyster Company (One Ferry Building; hogislandoysters.com) and congratulate yourself for completing your cross-city sprint. ( 5:00 )

If you’ve left your heart in San Francisco, United and United Express offer 235 ways to get back there to find it, with nonstop service to San Francisco International Airport from cities throughout the United States, Canada, Mexico, Asia, Australia and Europe.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2009

whereabouts

31

The Places I Go Gwen Stefani: “WE GO TO PALM SPRINGS

every year. To be honest, I didn’t want to the first time. But my husband, Gavin, loves tennis and plays in a tournament, so I said okay. Now, I think it’s really fun.

We never had anything annual before, so this has become our family tradition. My mom and dad come out, and the whole gang. It’s pretty cool—just very slow and relaxing. Really perfect for us.

“Palm Springs is basically like a gigantic strip mall, but there’s something about the weather. It’s very clear and hot, but it’s a dry heat. And it’s really beautiful at night. The stars are amazing, and there are these big huge mountains that come out of nowhere.

It’s pretty. There’s just a great feeling to the place.

I still don’t play golf or tennis, but I always look forward to going back.”

GWEN STEFANI is currently

P H OT O G RA PH SBY BYMIC H A E L T HO M P S ON

on a 45-city tour of the U.S. with No Doubt.

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Grand Bohemian Hotel Asheville

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WHERE TO STAY / WHAT TO SEE / WHEN TO GO

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2009

P H O T O G R A P H C O U R T E SY O F H O T E L M I S S O N I

news

Inn Style FASHION HOUSE // With

its medieval castle, crumbling abbey and stone everything, Edinburgh’s Old Town is aptly named, which makes the addition of the first ever Hotel Missoni, from the famed Milan design house, all the more striking. The new hotel shuns Missoni’s tradition of bold colors in favor of a mostly black, white and silver palette.

But it maintains the label’s touch with Missoni Home furnishings throughout the 136 spectacular rooms. For those who prefer their modish hotels in warm climates, a second outpost opens in Kuwait this summer. Twenty-eight more will follow. hotelmissoni.com

33

JULY 2009 | UNITED.COM

JULY CALENDAR

34

3

DON’T LOOK DOWN //

The 103rd floor Skydeck of the Sears Tower provides an unparalleled view of Chicago. On some days, if you look hard enough, you can see as far as 50 miles out. Is that Indiana in the distance? Still, more than a million visitors a year can’t resist smushing their faces against the windows in an attempt to take in a view rarely seen: the ground below. Inspired by those countless forehead prints, the brains behind the Skydeck introduce the Ledge. A simple if terrifying concept, the Ledge is a series of small glass bays extending from the Skydeck; they allow visitors to step out onto 4.3 feet of glass and take in outstanding views of the city (and sidewalk) 1,353 feet below. That is, if their nerves are up to it. theskydeck.com THE VICE OF LIFE // Perched on a high, rocky ledge overlooking Barnes Bay to the west and Meads Bay to the east is the Viceroy Anguilla, a luxurious resort sitting on 35 acres of quiet Caribbean landscape.

Rooms range from the relatively modest (bed, private sundeck, plunge pool) to the ostentatious (9,500 square feet, indoor and outdoor kitchens, “lifestyle assistants”).

And for those who wear themselves out lounging in the sun, there’s a two-story spa to help relax, because one story wouldn’t quite cut it. viceroyanguilla.com

3 CALGARY // Canadian rodeo?

Who knew? The Canucks at the Calgary Stampede love broncos and country music as much as their neighbors to the south. calgarystampede.com

4 BOSTON // Celebrate the Fourth of July in the city that once turned its harbor into the world’s largest cup of ice-cold tea. july4th.org

8 WASHINGTON, D.C. // Barbie may be 50 years old, but she doesn’t look a day over 35.

Come wish her happy birthday with some of her biggest fans at the 2009 National Barbie Doll Collectors Convention. barbieconvention.com

FOR THOSE ABOUT TO ROCK //

Universal Studios’ newest roller coaster, the Hollywood Rip Ride Rockit, combines traditional amusement park thrills (twists, spins, nausea) with rock and roll, allowing riders to choose the soundtrack to their 65 mph ride and have a music video of the adventure made afterward. And you thought you had to play an instrument to be a rock star. universalorlando.com

C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: P H O T O G R A P H S C O U R T E SY O F T H E L E D G E ( 2 ) , C O U R T E SY O F CA L GA RY S TA M P E D E , C O U R T E SY O F M AT T E L , C O U R T E SY O F © 2 0 0 9 U N I V E R S A L O R L A N D O R E S O R T, C O U R T E SY O F V I C E R OY A N G U I L L A

DENVER // Sample the fine food and even finer art at the Cherry Creek Arts Festival, ranked No. 1 outdoor arts fair in the U.S. cherryarts.org

They think a heart bypass will require cracking his chest. * * * What they don’t know is that he has a choice. They don’t know that they will fly to the University of Maryland Medical Center in Baltimore where a world-class cardiac surgical team will perform an extremely unique completely robotic and video-controlled bypass surgery. They don’t know that after this minimally invasive surgery he’ll only have three tiny scars, and that he’ll be back to normal life in just three weeks.

advancing the state of the heart.

*

h ea r tbyp a s s . o rg | 80 0- 49 2 - 5 5 3 8

*

JULY 2009 | UNITED.COM

JULY CALENDAR

00 36

10 RIO DE JANEIRO // Go to Brazil for the beaches, but stay for Anima Mundi, an animation festival showing hundreds of cartoons over 10 days. animamundi.com.br

10

OH, MAYA // Just south of Cancun’s hair beads and strobe lights is a little piece of Mayan heaven offering an unbeatable deal: buy one room, get one free. The Tides Riviera Maya is more luxurious village than cookie-cutter resort, with a “tropical butler” who’ll feel like family by the end of your stay and hammocks you may be tempted to borrow indefinitely. Each of the 30 villas is tucked amid lush tropical vegetation—perfect for camouflaging moonlit outdoor showers.

Best of all, there’s not a keg cup in sight.

tidesrivieramaya.com

WHERE THE WILD THINGS ARE // Chicago’s Lincoln Park Zoo, home to animals both ferocious (polar bears) and adorable (marmosets), will transform into the city’s wildest concert venue this summer for its “Jammin’ at the Zoo” series, featuring Matt Nathanson and Brett Dennen this month. Be sure to wander into the Lion House or the Sea Lion Pool, both of which will be open during the show. You might just catch someone shaking a tail. lpzoo.org

12 LONDON // The British 10K London Run is a sightseeing tour disguised as a street race, with quintessential sites like Trafalgar Square and Buckingham Palace on the path. thebritish10klondon.co.uk

19 MONTEGO BAY // There are lots of reggae festivals around the world, but few compare to Reggae Sumfest in the genre’s homeland. reggaesumfest.com

24 WHEEL POWER // If you think vacation is all about moving as little as humanly possible, skip this item.

But if you’d love nothing more than to spin around a new city on top of a road bike, recumbent bike or even a tandem bike, go to RentABikeNow.com and, well, rent a bike now. Available in more than 150 cities.

SAN FRANCISCO // In Gilroy, California, an hour outside San Francisco, the Gilroy Garlic Festival serves up tons (literally) of pasta, beef and seafood, with not a vampire in sight. gilroygarlicfestival.com

28 NEW YORK // It’s not All Amadeus, it’s Mostly Mozart, a celebration of the Austrian composer. lincolncenter.org

C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: P H O T O G R A P H S C O U R T E SY O F H O T E L J E R O M E , C O U R T E SY O F J. R . T H O M A S O N,

BY B O E O O T E / P H O T O L I B R A RY, C O U R T E SY O F T I D E S R I V I E R A M AYA , C O U R T E SY O F L I N C O L N PA R K Z O O

OLD MAN JEROME // In 1889 the Hotel Jerome opened in Aspen, Colorado, a dusty silver mining town without a single high-end boutique. One hundred twenty years later, Aspen’s shopping scene has grown, and the hotel’s still standing. In celebration of its anniversary the Jerome is offering a “History Buff” package ($899), which provides three nights in a Deluxe King room, a historical tour of Aspen and 1889-style turndown amenities (think silver dollar souvenir coins) to travelers with a love of antiquity. hoteljerome.rockresorts.com

DUBLIN // Grab your Wellies and sunscreen, it’s time for Oxegen, a three-day music festival outside Dublin headlined

by The Killers and Blur. oxegen.ie

The Original Hawaiian Slipper Pendant with Diamonds $199 Matching Earrings available $299 Available in 14K Yellow, White or Rose Gold Chain additional

OAHU: Ala Moana Center t Waikiki Beachwalk t Hilton Hawaiian Village MAUI: Queen Ka‘ahumanu Center t Lahaina Cannery t The Shops at Wailea t Whalers Village Front Street (2 locations) t Hyatt Regency Maui t Grand Wailea Resort KAUAI: Poipu Shopping Village t Grand Hyatt Kauai BIG ISLAND OF HAWAII: Kona Marketplace t Kings’ Shops t Hilton Waikoloa Village NORWEGIAN CRUISE LINES: Pride of America BOSTON: Natick Collection t Northshore Mall CHICAGO: Oakbrook Center t Woodfield Mall DALLAS: NorthPark Center DENVER: Cherry Creek Shopping Center LOS ANGELES: Glendale Galleria t Northridge Fashion Center ORLANDO: The Mall at Millenia PHILADELPHIA: The Plaza at King of Prussia PLEASANTON: Stoneridge Mall PORTLAND: Washington Square SAN DIEGO: Fashion Valley t Horton Plaza SAN FRANCISCO: Pier 39 SAN JOSE: Valley Fair SEATTLE: Bellevue Square WASHINGTON, D.C.: Tysons Corner Center

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JULY 2009 | UNITED.COM

38

hero

Child Star

BY LAYLA SCHLACK NAME

• AKASH MEHTA, 11 • To raise money for

MISSION

An 11-year-old from Brooklyn reaches out to kids who are still suffering adverse effects from the 1984 toxic explosion in Bhopal, India.

children around the world.

At the tender age of eight, Akash organized a walkathon to drum up support for girls’ schools in Afghanistan. He raised $7,000 and started a foundation, Kids for a Better Future, which has supported former Congolese child soldiers and children suffering health effects from the deadly Union Carbide disaster in Bhopal, India.

While volunteering there among children in the slums, Akash collected their stories for a children’s book, which he and his brother will edit over the summer.

MOTIVATION • “I live a privileged life. Both my parents have houses, and I go to private school. I just feel like the world is giving so much to me, and I want to give something back.”

WHAT’S NEXT • “There’s this thing called the U.N. Convention on the Rights of the Child, and the U.S. is one of only two U.N. countries that hasn’t ratified it. President Obama said he would review it, so we need to make that happen.”

PHOTOGRAPH BY FIONA ABOUD

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sound

40

Beyond Babylon Fifty years after starting the label that launched everyone from Bob Marley to U2, Island Records founder Chris Blackwell is feeling irie. // BY JASON FINE

ALSO THIS MONTH What else to listen to on the go in July

of Jamaica, his mother’s home nation. Island introduced the Caribbean groove to the rest of the world with landmark recordings by Jimmy Cliff, Toots and the Maytals and, most important, Bob Marley.

Marley and the Wailers were already Jamaican stars in 1972 when they showed up in Blackwell’s London office, desperate, stranded and broke after a film project in England had been canceled. Blackwell offered the group £4,000 to record an album.

“Everybody said I was mad, that I would never see that money again,” says Blackwell. “The Wailers had a reputation as total rebels who were

Wilco WILCO

Meat Puppets SEWN TOGETHER

Rob Thomas CRADLESONG

On its seventh album, Wilco dives deeper into the post-psychedelic sound first explored on Yankee Hotel Foxtrot.

Even the folkie first single, a duet with Feist, ends with backwardlooped guitars melting into the background.

Kurt Cobain was a huge fan of the Meat Puppets, who disappeared into drug addiction in the ’90s.

Now they’re back (thank God) with far-out guitar jams sounding fresher than most of today’s fey indie rock.

Brace yourself: Rob Thomas is the last true pop star on the Top 40.

The Matchbox 20 frontman, an adept craftsman, has an irresistible new single, “Her Diamonds,” that stands far above the country-pop and bland rap ruling the charts.

NATTY REBEL Blackwell circa 1970

impossible to deal with.”

But Blackwell saw Marley's messianic genius. “Bob was a very charismatic personality—he had some kind of aura to him, this sense of greatness. Reggae at that point was known to most people as a novelty music, but I felt Bob could be bigger than Jimi Hendrix.”

Blackwell sold Island to Polygram in 1989, and he retired from the label completely in 1997. But he still keeps tabs on Island’s artists and says the one he’s most excited about is the supremely talented (and equally troubled) singer Amy Winehouse. “To me, she’s the one right now—she’s got it,” Blackwell says.

“I hope she can pull herself together.”

Meanwhile, Blackwell has launched two new enterprises: Palm Pictures, a music and film company; and Island Outpost, a chain of boutique hotels that includes the magnificent Goldeneye, on Jamaica’s north shore, originally the home of author Ian Fleming. Blackwell spends much of his time there, living in a rustic cabin overlooking a lagoon. He still shows up for business meetings in shorts and sandals, fresh off his jet ski.

“I was never really cut out for corporate life,” he says.

Reggae aficionado JASON FINE is the executive editor of Rolling Stone.

P H O T O G R A P H BY G E M S / R E D F E R N S ( T O P )

CHRIS BLACKWELL was a 22-year-old waterskiing instructor at the Half Moon Resort in Montego Bay, Jamaica, when he got the idea to record a blind cocktail pianist who performed in the hotel bar.

“I was just a fan,” says Blackwell, who at 72 has thinning hair and a voice that blends an English accent with a rasta patois. “I loved music, and this was a chance to get closer to it. I really didn’t see it as a business opportunity that would last for fifty years.”

Blackwell pressed 250 copies, the first release of what would become Island Records. It didn't sell, but over the next three decades, Island grew into one of the most groundbreaking labels in the world, releasing albums by a roster including Jethro Tull, Traffic, Cat Stevens, Roxy Music, Grace Jones, Tom Waits and U2.

But at the core of the label’s identity was Blackwell’s devotion to the music

Opt for the lines less traveled.

Premier Line.

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JULY 2009 | UNITED.COM

vision

Who’s Sorry Now? Ditched by her husband, directing novice Nina Paley turned her heartache into an animated feature, and earned a thumbs-up from Roger Ebert. // BY WILLA PASKIN

IN 2005, NINA PALEY’S HUSBAND dumped

her by email from India. Paley, a 40-year-old animator who now lives in New York City, was distraught—but she was not, she soon found, without some recourse. She spent the next three years writing, directing, animating and editing a retort on her computer.

The vividly crafted result, Sita Sings the Blues, is a unique animated feature that combines Paley’s own romantic woes with the Indian tale of the Ramayana— a 3,000-year-old epic Sanskrit poem that’s as familiar to South Asians as Bible stories are to Westerners—and the songs of a mostly forgotten jazzage vocalist, Annette Hanshaw. Or, as Paley puts it, it’s an “animated, musical, personal interpretation of the Ramayana set to American jazz and blues from the 1920s.” You know, one of those.

To Paley’s mind, the Ramayana, in which Hindu goddess Sita is forsaken by her husband, Rama, but remains eternally faithful, is “the greatest breakup story every told.” And it spoke to her. “When my husband dumped me,”

she says, “it was freaky how insightful that story became.” Soon after the dissolution of her marriage, she heard a recording of Hanshaw at a friend’s house. “I was in this state,” Paley explains, “and the songs just felt so

true.” Somehow, she realized, the three elements belonged together.

The result defies easy explanation.

Sita seamlessly meshes multiple styles of animation and storylines, cutting from jerky, hand-drawn scenes from Paley’s own marriage to Flash-animated sequences of a wide-eyed, Betty Boop–esque Sita singing Hanshaw’s songs and then to shadow-puppet sequences in which Paley’s friends colloquially retell the Ramayana. Coincidentally, Paley grew up in Urbana, Illinois, Roger Ebert’s hometown. That might explain why, when a DVD of Sita showed up in his mail unbidden, he decided to take a look. The powerhouse critic called the film “astonishingly original,” adding, “I am enchanted.”

Despite that enthusiastic thumbs up, after struggling to release the film through the usual channels, Paley has opted to distribute it herself. DVDs of Sita are available for $20, but the entire film is also streaming for free online. The idea, she explains, is for Sita to find the widest possible audience. “This is a story most people can empathize with,” Paley says.

“You’re really lucky if you can’t relate to having your heart broken.”

Sita Sings the Blues is available to stream or download at sitasingstheblues.com.

ALSO THIS MONTH What else to watch on the go in July

Web Therapy

Mad Men Season Two

Harvard Beats Yale 29-29

Former Friend Lisa Kudrow stars in an amusing improvisational comedy series as Dr. Fiona Wallace, a supremely self-involved psychotherapist who sees her patients for three-minute sessions, via webcam.

Online at 1studio.com/ web-therapy

The third season of Mad Men, AMC’s critically beloved show about hard-drinking, chain-smoking, impeccably groomed advertising men, starts in late summer. Time for a review course in all the office politics, mysterious back stories and skinny ties from last season.

Out on DVD July 14

It may be the most triumphant tie in all of sports: the epic 1968 football match in which Harvard scored 16 points against the undefeated Yale in the game’s final 42 seconds. Four decades later, an enormously entertaining documentary tells the tale.

Out on DVD July 28

P HO T OG RA P H C OURT E SY OF N INA PA L EY ( T OP)

42

Opt for a club away from the hubbub.

Red Carpet Club.ÂŽ Purchase a one-time pass to a travel oasis. united.com/traveloptions

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JULY 2009 | UNITED.COM

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44

Blast from the Past

ALSO THIS MONTH What else to read on the go in July

The Supremes

If the Supremes haven’t been fully appreciated as a cultural force, chalk it up to their music, which presented such a dazzling surface few suspected the depths of struggle underneath. With his well-wrought new biography, Mark Ribowsky gives Detroit girls their due.

them to wax poetic, with often less than stellar results. “The earth looks from the moon like the moon looks from the earth,” John Young of Apollo 16 tells him.

Thanks, Commander!

The fact is, however many thrusters we deploy, the reality of space travel will probably never compare to the dream.

Which is why the rerelease of M. Sasek’s vividly illustrated 1963 children’s classic, This is Cape Canaveral (retitled This is the Way to the Moon), with its charmingly naïve illustrations, is ultimately so much more transporting.

Meanwhile, engineering fans can geek out with Rick Stroud’s scienceheavy The Book of the Moon, which starts at the creation of the big orb itself and details the nuts and bolts of how exactly Apollo 11 accomplished liftoff. And those itching for orbit themselves should check out Piers Bizony’s How to Build Your Own Spaceship, which examines space travel’s new commercial frontier: the launch of Richard Branson’s Virgin Galactic, scheduled for next year. Fasten your seatbelts.

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EXPLORER 1 First American satellite in space, 1958 Assembly time: 1.5 hours

ON JULY 20, 1969, Neil Armstrong stepped onto the craggy lunar surface, demonstrating America’s great Cold War triumph and giving us perhaps the most transcendent holy cow moment of the postwar era. But what were the astronauts really thinking as they staked out the final frontier? Not much, at least to judge from Craig Nelson’s otherwise compelling and thoroughly researched account, Rocket Men: The Epic Story of the First Men On the Moon. Or not much they could readily articulate. Straitlaced Air Force test pilots and engineers, these guys weren’t exactly given to spinning yarns. “It was not within our ken to share emotions or to utter extraneous information,” astronaut Michael Collins reports. How do you extract the essence of the human race’s greatest adventure from men who say less than Marcel Marceau with a mouthful of Saltines?

Andrew Chaikin runs into the same problem in Voices from the Moon. A hardcore NASA junkie, he sat down with 23 lunar astronauts and patiently goaded

MERCURY CAPSULE First American astronaut in space, 1962 Assembly time: 2 hours

A slew of new titles helps us remember the Apollo 11 lunar mission. // BY DREW GRANT

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2009

design

47

Quick Silver Yes, the 2010 Aston Martin Rapide is pricey an and nd chugs gas like Gatorade in a heat wave. But look at it. Can you afford not to buy this car? // BY MIK MIKE EG GUY UY

P H O T O G R A P H S C O U R T E SY O F A S T O N M A R T I N L AG O N DA L I M I T E D

CLOSE YOUR EYES for a moment and think

on this: What’s missing? Because you care about the world and the people who live here, you undoubtedly came up with all the right answers: world peace, justice for the downtrodden, red velvet cupcakes that will smooth out even the deepest crow's feet. There's something else, though, isn't there? Hmmm....

You looked at the picture, didn't you?

Anyway, yes. What's missing is the 2010 Aston Martin Rapide, a four-door design dynamo that will cost around $200,000 and get less than 20 miles per gallon on the highway. No need to justify this seemingly insane purchase by summoning the easy association with the 1965 DB5 in Goldfinger. The simple fact is, whoever you are, male or female, there’s a hole in your psyche shaped just like this stupefying piece of automotive art. It’s 16.4 feet long, 6.2 feet wide, with exquisite lines, a come-hither grille and the silhouette of the most sublime four-door artillery shell ever

fired down a winding highway. And the Rapide is the only object on earth that can fill it.

According to the automotive rabble, the Rapide—which is a descendant of 1961’s boxy Lagonda Rapide, though its design is entirely modern—is the four-door that will overtake the Maserati Quattroporte, Mercedes-Benz CLS-Class, Audi A7, the bulky Porsche Panamera, the bombastic Lamborghini Estoque. All that is fine, and probably true (though what’s the point of arguing 1

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the fine points of that bunch of cars?).

But the real question is, will it be the most important thing in your life?

And the answer is yes. Because once you fill the Rapide-size hole, little else will matter. What spouse, no matter how nurturing, muscular, curvy or kind, could hope to compete with what Marek Reichman, Aston Martin’s director of design, calls “the most beautiful four-door sports car in the world”?

Now about those cupcakes...

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food&drink

OH, THE GAUL Diners

at Chez l’Ami Jean

Liberté, Egalité, Cassoulet!

A decade ago, a cadre of Paris pranksters cooked up a whole new approach to French cuisine. Now, Le Fooding is set to invade New York. // BY JAY CHESHES

P H O T O G R A P H S BY E D A L C O C K / E Y E V I N E

ONE FRIDAY EVENING last winter, a clot of

well-dressed young Parisians—men in tuxedos, women in slinky black dresses—stood shivering in line outside Lapérouse, among the oldest and still one of the most venerable restaurants in Paris. First opened in 1766 and still bearing old-world elegance, it had been transformed for the evening into an opulent nightclub. Revelers were met by a hulking bouncer demanding a secret password. The phrase, “Enguerran, Jean Eude and Bertille bang actively on the door,” which had been delivered by email earlier that day, seemed nonsensical, but it opened the door.

Inside, the music was thumping,

cognac cocktails flowed, and gourmet snacks (grand cru oysters from Brittany, cult Poujaran bread with boutique Bordier butter) abounded. A pair of

young artists had turned a secluded salon into a psychedelic party room. By midnight one of the stuffiest spots in Paris, remade for the night into one of the hippest, was packed.

For nearly a decade a loose confab of rebellious young French food writers, working together as what they dubbed the “Bureau du Fooding,” have been organizing parties like this one, bringing haute cuisine into unlikely locales and top chefs out of their kitchens to mingle with the masses.

Following in the storied footsteps of the Paris Commune and the student movement of May ’68, their mission has been to a poke a finger in the eye of the rarefied French food establishment and to liberate chefs from their obsession with Michelin stars.

Coined by food writer Alexandre Cammas in 1999, Le Fooding—a Franglais mashup of “food” and “feeling”—made its way into the national discourse.

“We created Le Fooding to do something different from the Michelin

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guides and blow up all the classic categories,” Cammas says. In the 1990s, chefs in New York, London and Barcelona were in the midst of a creative renaissance, but Paris remained stuck in the past. “I wanted to wreak havoc.”

Le Fooding is about the democrachefs from the city’s top hotels—the tization of dining, about celebrating the Crillon, Ritz, Bristol and Meurice—to restaurant experience—from the music serve their souped-up versions of street on the stereo and the art on the walls to cart food (hot dogs, crepes, roasted the crowd in the room. It’s about good chestnuts, kebabs) in the historic food in a casual setting, about nibbling courtyards of the Village three-star cuisine standing St. Paul in the Marais. Last up, while a DJ bangs out winter, newspaper food BOARDING PASS tunes. In the words of the With nonstop service writer François Simon, said Le Fooding manifesto, “We from Chicago and to be the inspiration for the create, we innovate, and most Washington to Paris (and back, of critic in Ratatouille, went of all we have fun.” course), United makes behind the stoves himself These general precepts getting to the City of Lights très, très facile. for a week, cooking roast soon spawned a movement Chicago and with its own awards show Washington flights are chicken and pumpkin soup at timed for convenient a neighborhood bistro. And and guidebook, along with connections to and this fall, Le Fooding makes a series of gastro-anarchic from dozens of cities throughout North its stateside debut at New events. In 2003, the Bureau America. So, allons-y!

York’s P.S.1, in Queens, with du Fooding enlisted top chefs “Fooding d’Amour,” an event from across the country to matching young French chefs with their serve soup to passersby in the covered American counterparts. markets of Paris. In 2004, they hosted Le Fooding’s guidebook, built on the their first summer picnic on the banks heretical notion that reviews don’t need of the Seine, with trendy Parisian ratings, has become the smart, young chefs serving a crowd of 1,600 a alternative to Michelin, highlighting barbecunomique menu (the Le Fooding restaurants and chefs the red guide crew is fond of made-up words) for the overlooks in edgy reviews larded with democratic entry fee of ¤10. puns and double entendres.

In 2005, they convinced highbrow

GLORIOUS FOOD l’Ami Jean’s

Langoustines Bretonnes

“The big chefs, the old guard of gastronomy, in the beginning they hated us,” Cammas says. But a decade in, the Parisian dining scene is increasingly dominated by Le Fooding’s ideals. Now the city’s most popular spots don’t need Michelin stars, just solid endorsements from Cammas and his team.

As Michelin guide France celebrates its centennial, its vaunted star system, long practically a religion in France, has been coming under fire, not just from the Le Fooding crew but also top chefs themselves. After three-star chef Bernard Loiseau took his own life in 2003 (following rumors he’d soon be demoted a star), a handful of his compatriots, citing the pressures of maintaining such standards, gave back their stars. The red guide is finally beginning to acknowledge some of the restaurants Le Fooding discovered, but change comes slowly to the institution.

Many of the new spots still snubbed by the red guide represent an entirely new genre of restaurant, more spiritually in sync with hipster precincts of East London and Brooklyn

BON APPETIT Le Fooding’s Top Paris Tables Le Chateaubriand

Le Comptoir du Relais St. Germain

Chez l’Ami Jean

Ze Kitchen Galerie

La Bigarrade

“A festival of colors and textures from our dreams,” raves the 2009 Le Fooding guide.

129 Avenue Parmentier, 11th Arr., 01-43-57-45-95

Le Fooding suggests those wishing to sample Yves Camdeborde’s gastronomic menu “reserve a season ahead.”

9 Carrefour de l’Odéon, 6th Arr., 01-44-27-07-50, hotel-paris-relaissaint-germain.com

Le Fooding’s reviewer was “ready to throw uppercuts” for chef Stephane Jego’s braised pork cheek and stuffed rabbit roulade.

27 Rue Malar, 7th Arr., 01-47-05-86-89, amijean.eu

The Asian-fusion fare at William Ledeuil’s sleek little boîte recently landed its first Michelin star.

4 Rue des Grands Augustins, 6th Arr., 01-44-32-00-32, zekitchengalerie.fr

“Rarely has an open kitchen been so transparent,” wrote the Le Fooding critic who swooned over Christophe Pelé’s modern French fare.

106 Rue Nollet, 17th Arr., 01-42-26-01-02, bigarrade.fr

C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P : P H O T O G R A P H S C O U R T E SY O F S T R AT I S A N D B E VA , J. S I E R P I N S K I / D I G I TAG E N T, S T E P H A N E D E S A K U T I N/A F P/G E T T Y I M AG E S , C O U R T E SY O F S T R AT I S A N D B E VA , M AU R I C E R O U G E M O N T/O PA L E / R E T NA ( 2 )

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2009

JEWELRY FOR LIFE

51

than the bourgeois Paris of Jacques Chirac. (Or Jacques Pépin, for that matter.) “It’s causing a panic at Michelin,” Cammas says. “They know they’re not onto what’s going on.” One Le Fooding writer, straining to describe the new breed of establishments, coined the term restaurant bistronomique, denoting ambitious food, moderate prices and low-key bistro settings.

The heroes of this new food scene toil in cramped open kitchens at holes-inthe-wall like Chez l’Ami Jean, the tiny Comptoir du Relais St. Germain in the Latin Quarter and Le Chateaubriand, where Basque chef Inaki Aizpitarte offers up a $60 five-course dinner that changes nightly. To dine there is to surrender entirely to the chef’s whim.

Le Chateaubriand—with its clean, clearheaded cooking served in a warm bistro setting—embodies Le Fooding’s best qualities and may well represent the future of French food. Even the biggest-name chefs have begun dialing down, opening their own little bistronomique labors of love.

“Between a guy with a big belly and three Michelin stars serving an audience of tourists and a guy like Inaki—cooking cool food, being in magazines, shaking hands with his patrons,” Cammas asks, “who’s the happy one?”

Palate-for-hire JAY CHESHES has eaten professionally for Gourmet, Saveur and Time Out New York.

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industry

The New Texas Tea A humble Austin native has clawed his way into the cutthroat world of premium vodka, where his firewater is catching on, one potent drop at a time.

BY EDWARD LEWINE // PHOTOGRAPH BY VAN DITTHAVONG JUST OUTSIDE AUSTIN, TEXAS, a little to the

southeast of the airport, there’s a dusty compound where an appropriately named eccentric, Bert Butler “Tito” Beveridge II, makes vodka with a few homemade stills. Vodka is a spirit people associate with wintry Eastern European countries and deposed Communist dictators; Tito’s Handmade Vodka, as Beveridge’s product is called, hails instead from this sun-baked lot deep in Texas Hill Country.

Across the street from the distillery, there’s a Mexican rodeo stadium.

Honest-to-god sagebrush rolls in tumbleweeds along the curbs. Dogs and goats wander onto the local roads and 18-wheelers rocket past. “I try to go out there as little as possible,” says Beth Bellanti-Walker, who handles marketing

for Tito’s from an East Austin office.

“Between the trucks, the dogs and the road kill, the place scares me.”

Despite its odd origins, Tito’s vodka has been a hit with critics and increasingly with consumers as well.

In 1997, the first year of production, Tito’s sold 1,000 cases, mostly in the Austin area. Last year, sales were just shy of 250,000 cases in all 50 states and Canada. According to stats compiled

by Impact, a wine and spirits newsletter, this makes Tito’s the 38th most popular vodka in the country.

Thirty-eighth place may be nothing to brag about in a pro golf tournament or big-time spelling bee, but it’s darn good for a vodka made in a little corner of central Texas. Especially when you consider that vodka is the most

popular kind of liquor in America, accounting for a third of sales, and that everyone who makes booze these days makes vodka, from the international conglomerates to local artisans. In some ways, it’s supplanted bourbon as America’s spirit.

“The Tito’s brand is still pretty new,” says David Fleming, executive editor of Impact. “But the growth it has shown in that time is impressive.” The question now is whether Tito’s is growing too fast. Can it continue at this pace and still remain true to its handmade, smallbatch roots?

Just past noon on an overcast spring day, Beveridge pulls into the yard in front of his distillery, which looks a bit like every other tidy light-industry compound along Texas’ back roads.

He’s 47 and handsome in a beefy, ranchhand kind of way, with sun-browned skin, thick graying hair and slightly bowed legs. The distillery itself consists of five ramshackle warehouses and a shed. Inside these buildings is an equally ramshackle collection of stills and bottling machines. All of it—the buildings, the stills and the machines—were built by Beveridge himself, using whatever materials he could find.

When he opens the door to the shed, the original building where Beveridge still has his office, out bursts the sharp, sweet smell of booze. Nearby stands a pair of what look like kettle drums partially wrapped in shiny duct tape with tubes sticking out all over. These are Beveridge’s version of old-fashioned pot stills, the kind people have been using since ancient times.

With a quick turn of a quarter-inch spigot, Beveridge releases two fingers of vodka into a test tube. He takes a sip, ruminates a while and then swallows.

“I’m not a spitter,” he says. Beveridge makes all the vodka himself. In the

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JULY 2009 | UNITED.COM

54

industry

beginning he had one still, but he built two more to meet the growing demand.

Now he’s building 10 more.

“When I started this company,” he says, sitting back in his cluttered office and kicking his boots up, “I just wanted to make enough money to spend my afternoons swimming in Barton Creek.

Well, I’ve done that. Now, I want to see how far I can take this operation.”

On the surface, Beveridge is all laidback Texas, with his lazy twang and his daily uniform of work boots, jeans and denim button-down shirts. Underneath is a relentless businessman who has had to struggle for every bit of success he’s had. He grew up in San Antonio in a formerly wealthy trucking family— “One generation made it, the next lost it,” he says—studied geology at the

EVERCLEAR Vodka’s newest frontier

necessary permits to make vodka legally—especially difficult in the state of Texas, where Beveridge became the first licensed distiller in history. Unable to find financial backers, Beveridge maxed out 19 credit cards to the tune of $88,000 or so, and he spent his days quietly perfecting his technique—hence

Tito’s success is part marketing: The notion of a crazy guy using pot stills to make vodka in Texas Hill Country is almost too good to be true.

University of Texas and spent the 1980s wandering the hemisphere in search of a living in the oil business.

He never struck oil and felt out of sync with the backwoods culture he encountered, which was a little macho for his tastes, he says. “I just wanted to move to Austin and get away from all that.”

In Austin, he tried his hand at being a mortgage broker, but that too came to nothing. Down on his luck, Beveridge turned to booze, in a manner of speaking, flavoring store-bought vodka with habanero chilies as a cheap and easy gift for friends. People loved his spicy vodka so much, he considered turning the idea into a business. But a few informal chats with a friendly liquor-store owner informed Beveridge that flavored vodkas weren’t exactly flying off the shelves back then.

Then the liquor store owner mentioned something interesting.

“He told me if I could make a vodka so smooth women wanted to drink it,” Beveridge recalls, “then their boyfriends would buy it and I’d have something.”

It took two years to secure all the

the Rube Goldberg–esque vodka works in his shop.

As with any brand, much of the success of Tito’s Handmade Vodka comes down to clever marketing. The notion of a crazy guy using pot stills to make vodka in Texas Hill Country is almost too good to be true. (Sort of like the Bartles and Jaymes guys, except that Tito Beveridge really exists.) In fact, there are those who say the entire vodka business is just marketing, since vodka is defined by the U.S. government as being “without distinctive character, aroma, taste or color.”

But Tito’s gets good reviews from people who claim they can tell the difference, namely critics, who say you can’t beat it for the price, which hovers around $20 a fifth. In 2001, Tito’s was awarded a Double Gold Medal for vodka at the World Spirits Competition, beating out 71 other vodkas, including Ketel One, Stolichnaya and Smirnoff.

“It’s a beautiful spirit,” says Tony Abou-Ganim, a drinks consultant and former head bartender at the Bellagio in Las Vegas. “It has a sweet and creamy flavor, but it also has good

structure and a clean, dry finish.”

Distilling is a relatively simple operation. You take an already fermented liquid and boil it, separating the alcohol, which boils at a lower temperature, from the water. But Beveridge has his own methods. He distills his vodka from corn, whereas most producers use potatoes or wheat.

And while most producers purchase fermented mashes from suppliers, he mashes and ferments the corn himself.

Larger competitors use industrialsize “column” stills, but Beveridge prefers his quirky, inefficient pot stills, which present difficulties when it comes to scaling up production.

“Pot-still distillation is the essence of what Tito Beveridge is doing,” says F. Paul Pacult, the editor of Spirit Journal.

“But there’s a limit to how much vodka a single man can produce using pot stills. I’d caution Tito not to forget the methods that brought him to the dance: pot stills and attention to detail.”

Beveridge doesn’t seem worried.

He estimates that when he gets his 10 new stills up and running, he’ll have the capacity to produce around two million cases a year. If he sold that, he’d have one of the 10 biggest vodkas in the United States by sales volume. “There’s no saying I can’t make that much,” he says, “and make it even better.

“I’ve had around 18 offers to sell this company for lots of money,” Beveridge adds. “But I don’t want to be the guy who used to own Tito’s vodka. I want to build a company that I can run.”

EDWARD LEWINE loves vodka and

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sports

57

Never Say Goodbye Premium baseball players don’t hang up their spikes anymore. Indeed, there are enough bored, unemployed (perhaps indicted) All-Stars waiting by the phone to make a formidable team in their own right.

BY JASON GAY // ILLUSTRATION BY BARRY BLITT

THE 2009 MAJOR LEAGUE BASEBALL ALL-STAR

game takes place on July 14 in St. Louis, but you know what? Who cares. I’m building my own personal baseball team, people, and we’re going to be the best in the world—even without young bucks like Evan Longoria, Chase Utley and Zack Greinke. Zack Greinke? Get real.

Teams are ignoring the fastest-growing talent pool in sports: angry old guys who don’t know how to quit.

My first recruiting stop is the wisteria-scented private paradise of Beverly Hills, California, home to graying screen legends, Hollywood brats, and a thick-headed, mercurial 44-year-old with 762 career home runs

named Barry Lamar Bonds. Now, before you grimace like I’ve just unwrapped a tuna burrito, consider this: Barry’s ready to work. Yes, he’s had some problems of the public relations nature, and his teammates tend to give him a wide berth in the dugout. Yes, he’s still facing that pesky perjury trial. And yes, he’s demanding his own personal locker room, a Gulfstream and a masseuse for his masseuse.

But the guy still looks as though he could hit 35 home runs batting ninth.

Best of all, his agent says he’ll play for the major league minimum, which is $400,000—approximately the price of watching two games behind the dugout

at Yankee Stadium.

Get on the bus, Barry. Oops—don’t bonk that head!

Our next stop is Texas, home to steers, snakeskin boots, Jerry Jones, and a John Wayne type from Houston whom we want to start on the mound: Roger Clemens. He, too, has had some legal trouble, but he’s the winningest pitcher of his generation, he’s continued playing into his midforties, and before all the fuss, people were paying him $18 million to throw for half a season. He’s also got a long history of unretiring. There, look at Rocket playing catch in the backyard—he just knocked that little boy’s hand off. Sign

JULY 2009 | UNITED.COM

him up. And get the kid to a hospital.

Next it’s on to the Dominican Republic, the Caribbean baseball mecca.

We’re here to pick up an irreverent prankster who will help offset Barry’s and Rocket’s bad attitudes: slugger Sammy Sosa. Slammin’ Sammy hit 609 home runs, was one of the most joyous players in sports, remains a hero in his home country and (you got it) never really retired. While you’re down there, say hello to Pedro Martinez, who’s no

depart gracefully. Used to be, when you turned 35 your stats began to erode, and you started looking at gold Rolexes and Cayman Island time shares. Forty? You were playing slow-pitch softball with a gut the size of a sea turtle.

Now, it seems we can barely pry guys’ fingers from the bat. Either it’s because a player thinks he’s worth more than teams are willing to pay (Pedro), is too much of a legal or PR liability (Clemens) or is a health liability (Curt

Used to be, at 40 you were playing slow-pitch softball with a gut the size of a sea turtle.

Now we can’t pry guys’ fingers from the bats. doubt done mourning the death of Nelson, his little-person sidekick. Pedro never really hung up his spikes either.

That’s the thing: Nobody retires anymore. Maybe it’s fallout from the ongoing performance enhancing drug– scandals, maybe it’s better training methods, maybe it’s that potential retirees don’t want to take out the garbage or drive the kids to soccer practice, but athletic greats no longer know how to

BOWING OUT GRACEFULLY The most gentlemanly exits in baseball

Schilling). Sometimes it’s a little of each, in addition to being a jerk (Bonds).

Last winter, the list of baseball’s available, unpursued, unwanted free agents read like a who’s who of the sport: Frank Thomas, Jeff Kent, Pedro, Schilling, Pudge Rodriguez. Kent’s family pleaded with him to bow out rather than end up like a Christmas toy on December 26, but you get the feeling he really wants to stay in the sport, and

judging from the volume of his sobbing at his retirement presser, the Kent household isn’t a fun place to be this summer. Same for Schilling, who gave serious thought to becoming a Tampa Bay Ray before finally announcing (by way of a post on his blog) he was quitting the game as a Red Sox. Meanwhile, teams seem less eager than ever to rescue these aging heroes and let them twist in the wind instead.

I say, let’s not let legal, marketing or psychological concerns hold us back.

Let’s go get these guys and make dreams come true. Let’s build a team for the ages. We’ll call ourselves the Neglected Geezers (I considered Team Cocoon, the Retrostars, and the Mets-A-Mucils).

We’ll barnstorm the country giving the Major League squads a run for their money. America will love us. In these tough times, a lot of older, highly accomplished workers have lost their jobs: a built-in fan base.

So let’s grab Frank, Jeff, Barry, Rocket, Pedro and Curt (and a pair of parrots, so the loquacious Schilling always has someone to talk to). We’ll need a couple of utility guys—how about Trot Nixon and Jim Edmonds? Then let’s head back

Lou Gehrig RETIRED 1939

Sandy Koufax RETIRED 1966

Cal Ripken Jr. RETIRED 2001

Mike Mussina RETIRED 2008

Granted, the Iron Horse was felled by ALS, but the humility in his heartbreaking goodbye speech—which ended, “I might have been given a bad break, but I’ve got an awful lot to live for.

Thank you”—has been emulated by retirees the world over.

In his last season pitching for the Dodgers, Koufax finished with a dazzling 27-9 record and a 1.73 ERA (recordsetting numbers for a modern-day southpaw).

Though only 30, Koufax hung up his spikes before arthritis diminished his performance.

The Ironman’s skills faded in his 20th year as an Oriole, but rather than tar his legacy with years of mediocrity, Ripken announced his impending retirement midseason and spent his last months on the field bowing to standing ovations all around the country.

Moose is the first pitcher since Koufax to retire after a 20-victory season. He never won a World Series or Cy Young, and is a maybe for the Hall of Fame. He could probably have pitched another solid season but decided, “Someone else should be doing it.”

F R O M L E F T, P H O T O G R A P H S BY S P O R T S I L L U S T R AT E D/G E T T Y I M AG E S , S C H A R F M A N/G E T T Y I M AG E S , H A L L /A F P/G E T T Y I M AG E S , BA K E R /G E T T Y I M AG E S

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to Texas and get another guy: Rafael Palmeiro. I know, I wasn’t such a big fan of his either. But he never technically retired, and the dude’s got a bubble gum machine filled with Viagra left over from his old endorsement days. That will make him the most popular guy on a team loaded with randy fortysomethings.

Now we’re going to have to set a few team-specific rules: Geezer day games start at 10:30 a.m. and Geezer night games start at 4 p.m. We’re only playing six innings, because chances are Barry’s back will be killing him.

No doubleheaders (are you crazy?).

No games scheduled during major golf tournaments, NFL showdowns or Murder, She Wrote. The clubhouse TV will be tuned to Larry King Live, at full volume. As for locker room music, that’s easy: all REO Speedwagon, all the time. Preseason optometrist visits are compulsory, and there will be plenty of fiber in that locker-room buffet.

As for the look of the Neglected Geezers, I’m thinking the uniform will be what the kids call “relaxed fit.”

Maybe some pleats in the pants, a little extra wiggle for the waist. Anyone who still can’t fit gets a pair of Spanx.

We’re figuring these fellas will be easy to manage. Yes, there are some famous head cases on this team—we’ve basically assembled a squad of guys who all want to bat fourth. We’ll just tell them all they’re batting fourth. Shhh.

Maybe they won’t notice.

Off the field, there shouldn’t be many distractions. Most of these guys have kids, wives, lawyers and alimony payments. There’s no need to set a curfew—everyone’s asleep by 10 p.m. anyway. Unless Murder, She Wrote is on.

Now if you’ll excuse us, we have to go try out another old guy down in Mississippi. It’s been years since he’s played baseball, but apparently he was a heck of an athlete and wouldn’t mind suiting up one last time.

Brett Favre, meet the Neglected Geezers.

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Chili Dog to Go

P H O T O G R A P H S BY E R I K F R E E L A N D

An American family heads to Mexico for a lazy getaway and winds up bringing home a four-legged souvenir. // BY NINA BURLEIGH

AS ORIGINALLY PLANNED, our midwinter Mexican vacation was supposed to be a sedate, even sophisticated affair: nesting in a sun-dappled house in historic San Miguel de Allende, strolling the cobbled lanes, sipping coffee on the square next to the apricot-colored 17th century Parroquia and snagging cool art treasures made of pressed tin. After a few days of

colonial elegance, though, our kids were utterly bored, and even I was longing for a Pacific beach—seven hours away by car.

So before sunrise on a morning halfway through our vacation, we piled ourselves into a rental car and drove off vaguely westward. The highway took us across the high, dry plateau 6,000 feet above sea level, and then slowly downward into

the green fields of Michoacán, Mexico’s breadbasket. By eight o’ clock, we were in the midst of a giant marshland populated by hundreds of thousands of migratory birds wintering in the south. Through the car windows, we bore witness to a primordial scene out of the Garden of Eden, myriad bird species eating breakfast and a few fishing boats setting

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out for the day with the so-called butterfly nets that the Aztecs used.

This pastoral vision ended abruptly at a diesel-scented industrial wasteland, the exurbs of a city called Morelia. Our directions advised that this could be the last place to gas up the car before tackling the 200 miles or so to the beach.

Pulling into a Pemex station with a mini-mart attached, my eyes were drawn immediately to a critter curled up against the curb where we parked. At first glance, it looked like a dead rat. Rather than keep this observation to myself, I blurted out

creature—which, on closer inspection, turned out to be a puppy with dull, sleepy eyes and a coat of dingy fur so worn away by malnutrition and skin disease as to suggest, perhaps, some Mexican hairless in its bloodlines.

My five-year-old daughter, Lulu, an animal lover who has made pets of potato bugs and weevils, was already caressing the filthy creature, which was now up and bobbing about in a friendly, if dazed, manner. My instinct was to ignore it, and I quickly shooed the kids away. I have learned a few lessons about picking up

My daughter caressed the filthy creature, and soon it was bobbing around in a friendly, if dazed, manner. something to the effect of, “Oh no, what is that?” and before I could say “Heel!” our children were out the back door of the sedan and poking their toes at the poor

strays, and I generally try to avoid it, but a few minutes later, as I noticed it ambling across the parking lot straight toward three lanes of morning rush hour beltway DOG DAY AFTERNOON Lulu, Felix and Chili

traffic, my canine-loving instincts took over. I knew if I let the animal walk out into traffic, its demise was going to haunt me for days. While my husband was inside the mini-mart, oblivious, choosing between the sugared donuts and the jalapeño chips, I grabbed our two-liter bottle of purified drinking water, a towel and a container of rosemary and thyme hotel shampoo. With the kids helping, we held the wriggling pup in place while rivulets of perfumed black water ran off its belly and onto the parking lot surface.

A brief discussion with the gas station attendant, whose expression as we washed the dog indicated he considered us escapees from a lunatic asylum, confirmed the obvious: The puppy was an unwanted stray who wouldn’t be missed.

By the time my husband stepped out of the store, the dog was wrapped in a towel, nestled on the backseat of the car between Felix, nine, and his sister, all three of them beaming. Instantly conceding defeat, he merely wondered: “What do we do with him now?” I assured him that one of the rich, dog-loving, expatriate Americans who populate San Miguel would welcome our little friend.

For the next few hours, we drove southwestward, passing into a scorched desert. When we opened the windows, the air that entered the car was like something from a blast furnace. Our stowaway barely moved. His eyes remained closed, and we began to wonder if he’d even survive the journey to the beach. To divert ourselves, we thought up names for him. “I want to call him Chili,” Lulu announced. Felix agreed. And so, while his dry nose, scrofulous skin and dull little eyes didn’t bode well for Chili’s longevity, he now had a name.

We finally reached the Pacific coast, rumbling up a dirt road leading to a collection of hotels along the sand—the surf town of Troncones. The sight of the heaving waves and the sensation of the cool breeze was a relief after our drive through hell’s basin, but now we had a fresh worry: Would Chili be welcome at the villa?

We tried to sneak him across the lawn, but the feel of the grass apparently was a new sensation for him, and he kept migrating back to the parking lot to nestle

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on the cement by the wheel of our car. It reminded me of a book I read to the kids when they were tiny, Are You My Mother?, about a lost baby bird who decides a steam shovel might be its mom. A bit of sausage was enough to coax Chili away from his asphalt bed and onto the porch, where the villa’s proprietors only winked at him.

Then, after scarfing down slabs of the food, our withered little canine became a frisky puppy before our eyes.

We took a walk on the beach, our frolicking pup tearing up the sand alongside with his white-tipped tail held high, all of us in a state of glee. Beachgoers approached wherever we went, cooing over Chili, “What a cute puppy!” As his gas station misery receded, we started to imagine the unthinkable: This mangy, wormy little mutt might actually have to come back to New York with us.

Through the beach grapevine, we heard that an American hotelier nearby sported an ASPCA sign on the wall of her establishment and probably could direct us to a local vet—which seemed like an urgent need, given that the children were by now handling the sickly critter nonstop. In short order, we were at the office of a friendly vet in the beach town of Ixtapa, who hoisted our Chili onto the metal table to take some skin scrapings. He found no evidence of contagious mange (a certain bar to north-of-the-border travel for Mexican

FOOTSTEPS IN THE SAND Chili runs on the beach with the author and Lulu.

them up into Texas and New Mexico by the dozen). Here we met our angel, a woman named Kelly Karger, who gave us a dog carrier and directed us to another vet, who provided us with more papers that would ensure—we were promised— Chili’s entry into the United States.

A week after we found him in the Pemex gutter, Chili arrived at security at the Mexico City airport, accompanied by an airline representative and a $125 ticket. We had been warned that if the Mexican authorities didn’t like the look of our dog or his papers, they might throw him into an airport kennel, the dreaded zoologico sanctuario, a prospect that— imagining the children’s likely reactions in an airport with a plane to catch—made my blood run cold. But the Mexican security forces waved him through, albeit after

We started to imagine the unthinkable: This mangy, wormy little mutt might actually have to come back to New York with us. canines, apparently), and after dosing him with worm medicine, administering his first puppy shot and loading us with antifungal and insecticide shampoos, he sent us on our way.

Back in San Miguel a few days later, we serendipitously walked into a dog festival in a city park. It was put on by an organization called “Save a Mexican Mutt.” The group is run by dog-loving Americans who round up, vaccinate and find homes for some of the thousands of Mexican strays that prowl alleys and garbage heaps south of the border (driving

lengthy, inscrutable, nerve-wracking walkie-talkie consultations in Spanish with an absent superior.

Before takeoff, the children had already pulled Chili out of his carrier and onto their laps. A flight attendant approached, and for a moment I thought we were doomed again. But rather than admonish us to lock him up, she fell to her knees in the aisle and showered our little stray with caresses. “Who is this little baby?” she repeated. “I have one like you at home!”

The final hurdle awaited at Newark airport. Approaching the special aisle

for travelers with “live animals or plant products,” my heart raced like a drug smuggler’s. A uniformed USDA inspector checked Chili’s papers and waved us through without so much as a glance inside the doggie bag. As we passed, one of the inspectors called out, “What kind of dog is it, anyway?” Ahh, just a Mexican mutt, we mumbled.

And so, our Chili became a naturalized American citizen. When I told this saga to a Dutch friend who travels between Amsterdam and New York four or five times a year, she was outraged at how much easier it was for a dog to get past U.S. Customs than it is for a bona fide member of the European Union.

A month into his unlikely American citizenship, Señor Pancho Chili de Pemex has taken to the New York lifestyle with panache. The elevator, the dog run, the leash, the crowded sidewalks, even the subway—nothing seems to befuddle him for long. Crucially, he apprehended house-training within days, although if the temperature is below 60 degrees, he prefers to do his business as close to the building as possible.

When our Spanish-speaking friends greet him with a hearty “¡Como Estas, Chili!” we think we see a glint of recognition in his bright little eyes. We hope to keep him bilingual.

The author of Unholy Business: A True Tale of Faith, Greed and Forgery in the Holy Land, NINA BURLEIGH wholeheartedly agrees with that great American philosopher, Snoopy, that “Happiness is a warm puppy.”

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fiction

PRA I RI E , SA S K A T C HEWAN, 2 0 0 8 , BY S C O T T C O NAR ROE , I S O N V I EW AT TH E ST E P HE N BU L G E R GALL E RY IN TO RO N T O.

End of the Line

BY SERGI PÀMIES TRANSLATED FROM THE CATALAN BY LISA M. DILLMAN SIX DAYS A WEEK, AT THE EXACT SAME TIME, the locomotive slices

through the stillness of the landscape. Neither the trees nor the hills take note; only the cow watches the train go by. From his cab, the engineer waves a hand in greeting and the animal responds by swishing her tail back and forth, which also serves to fan her udders. They’ve been repeating this ritual for years, but the engineer knows that today is the last time.

He’s retiring tomorrow. He’ll have time to tend the tiny patch of grass by the door of the house he’s finally paid off. He’ll be able to take vacations during low season, at discounted prices.

He’ll no longer have to try to motivate himself every morning by repeating that work is a source of dignity, or to endure the presence of his assistant, a sullen, stingy man.

The engineer pulls out of the station, his head filled with endless plans—most of which are actually feasible. He pays no attention to the winding tunnels leading to a series of rundown suburbs or the buildings lining the tracks, crowned with neon-lit advertising. He isn’t taking pleasure in his final moments, or thinking that he’ll never again be in charge of the locomotive’s throttle. His mind wandering through a napfilled future, he drives past the urban sprawl and toward a landscape where various shades of green and the intermittent smell of manure prevail. When he sees the cow in the distance, he instinctively reduces his speed, noting his assistant’s

look of disapproval. As he nears the cow it occurs to him that simply waving is not enough. So he slows down, his eye on the speedometer’s needle until it comes to rest at zero.

Slowly—trying not to jam his spine and set off his chronic back pain—he climbs down onto the tracks. With the faltering steps of a man unaccustomed to seeing his feet when he walks, he crosses the field toward the cow. The animal, having sensed the train halting, stops swishing her tail. She turns her head to get a better look at the engineer, who gingerly—as if rather than a cow she were a lion—reaches out a hand to pet the animal. The ruminant lets out a moo that scares off the swarm of flies normally clustered around her eyes. She glances at the train. Despite the distance she can make out the thin spiral of smoke trailing up from the sullen assistant’s cigarette. At the windows, passengers shout, demanding that the engineer get back immediately. They have no time to waste, they say. This is unacceptable. A more patient minority, however, looks on as a man who—judging by his uniform—must be the engineer hugs a cow for what seems quite some time and then, having finished, returns to the train with the satisfaction of one who has done his duty.

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RUBBLE ROUSERS Detroit artists are painting the town red...and orange.

By Matt Thompson

RIDING WITH MR. THONG Hemispheres explores the Ho Chi Minh Trail.

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3PD: SYDNEY Take a dive into the outdoorsy Aussie metropolis.

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E PHOTOGRAPHS BY PETER BAKER

BY MATT THOMPSON

A HEARTY BAND OF DETROIT ARTISTS ARE TRANSFORMING THEIR BELEAGUERED CITY INTO A MODERN ART MASTERPIECE, ONE ABANDONED BUILDING AT A TIME.

RUBBLE ROUS RS

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ORANGE AID // An underground art collective reclaims houses using paint.

JON BRUMIT’S NEW ART PROJECT ISN’T MUCH TO LOOK AT. A TINY SIX-ROOM AFFAIR ON THE WEST SIDE OF DETROIT with boards over the windows and a tumbledown garage out back, the edifice is coated in a thick layer of soot from an arson attempt and illuminated by an eight-foot gash in its roof. Still, the Whitney Biennial veteran isn’t fazed. He loves this piece, which he bought for $100, so much he plans to live here when he’s done with it. “I’m going to take out the upstairs floor back to here,” he says and whips out his iPhone to show off an architectural rendering. “And then knock down the downstairs walls so I’ve got one big room.” He points to piles of moldering carpet and knocked-in drywall, describing his plan for a sleek, self-sufficient art space drenched in natural light.

It sounds like your typical gut renovation, but for Brumit, it’s much more. “This house is one of two works of art my wife and I have ever bought,” he tells me. “The other was this ceramic wall hanging a friend of ours did. Of course, the wall hanging cost more.”

For a growing number of artists like Brumit, Detroit’s blighted zones have become both a medium and a workspace. With more than 30,000 vacant homes (the second most in the U.S. after Las Vegas) and a patchwork of ruined parcels to choose from, these artists have commandeered lofts, houses and empty lots, creating studios, underground installations and even organic farms around the city. Now, with a sprinkling of just-opened galleries, a new museum of contemporary art and the frisson of international press attention, they are out to remake the Motor City in their image.

The grandfather of this unnamed movement is widely acknowledged to be one Tyree Guyton, a reserved vet who began painting his Heidelberg Street house with multicolored polka dots in the mid-’80s.

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he kept going, converting old TVs, tables, vacuum cleaners, tires, stuffed animals and a block of abandoned houses into a Rauschenberg fever dream erupting from the neighborhood of Black Bottom. Though his work has been bulldozed twice by the city, Guyton has always cheerfully rebuilt, and today his oeuvre is something of an institution, visited by more than 275,000 people a year. With his creative impulses organized under the banner of the nonprofit Heidelberg Project, he and his wife, Jenenne Whitfield, coordinate a growing network of events, educational programs and public art installations.

I run into Guyton as I wander through his creation on a sunny Friday afternoon in spring. He shakes my hand and abruptly looks down. “Pleased to meet you,” he mumbles, and then, when I ask him what he’s working on these days, adds, “Lunch.” Though he remains friendly, he’s not one for conversation.

Whitfield, who’s also the executive director of the project, happily speaks in his stead.

“Tyree was able to see beauty in the chaos of Detroit,” she tells me. “Rather than working like a trained artist with a canvas, he used what he had: everything that everyone else had cast off.”

More artists are following his lead. “I work with Detroit as a medium, as a material,” Motown native Scott Hocking explains, standing in his southside loft, surrounded by painted plastic animals, rusted signs and piles of scrap metal. He wears standard-issue artist black and chain-smokes, and has pioneered a process that combines sculpting and photography with breaking and entering. “I spent a lot of time going into abandoned buildings, finding materials, and taking them back to the studio,” he tells me. “But it wasn’t until about two years ago that I thought of

DOT MATRIX // Tyree Guyton and Jenenne Whitfield’s Heidelberg Project began with polka dots.

actually working there.” Hocking’s new technique, he says, is to build large-scale installations in abandoned buildings, photograph them, and then leave them to the elements.

Art lovers eager to study his pieces up close will likely be disappointed. “I never take people to see my work sites,” Hocking says. “Some of them are dangerous if you don’t know what you’re doing. People you can always negotiate with.

Packs of wild dogs—not so much.” Anyway, it’s not about the final product so much as the process and the resulting documentary photographs, and a lot of the time, as Hocking

points out, there’s nothing left to visit. “Scrappers pull stuff apart, buildings collapse. One time I came back to this old factory where I built a giant pyramid out of wooden floor tiles to find it had been sealed up by the EPA.” When the Feds left six months later, the pyramid was gone.

A prime mover in the Detroit scene is Object Orange, an anonymous collective that paints abandoned houses bright orange. Greg, a member who asked to be identified by his first name only (the mayor’s office opposes the Object Orange crew), picks me up in his Mazda and shows me around. “As HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM JULY 2009

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DETROIT ART CITY // Object Orange beautifies an abandoned neighborhood, above. Opposite, clockwise from top left, a detail

from Scott Hocking’s studio; Mitch Cope and Gina Reichert; Powerhouse’s exterior; and Hocking

artists, you look around a city and see space as materials for art,” he says as we zoom through a maze of rundown blocks. Around us, the landscape changes from decaying to postapocalyptic. Entire blocks of caved-in houses alternate with fields of knee-deep switch grass. “So we thought, Why not use a house?”

Here’s how they work: A small group scouts for an appropriate building—one that is both dilapidated and clearly visible from major roads. Then another group arrives at night to paint it—in “Tiggerific” orange. “We want to spark a dialog, to make people ask ‘Why is this structure here? And why is it 74

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so invisible?’ Hence the orange paint.”

Greg slows the Mazda and looks around tentatively. “Where the hell are we?”

Finally, after a couple phone calls, we arrive at our destination in a decimated northern neighborhood in the shadow of Interstate 75. A row of wrecked houses in a lazily shifting field of weeds have been hit by Object Orange, and the contrast of the bright paint against the green background is striking. As if on cue, a pit bull pops its head above the window frame of one of the structures and begins barking at us. The neighbors don’t mind the

to break into the Powerhouse,” Cope says, marveling at the response. “It’s kind of amazing when the neighbors will go out in the street with baseball bats on your behalf.”

On my last night in Detroit, Object Orange’s Greg takes me out to a gallery opening in a converted airplane factory called The Russell Industrial Center. The opening seems sparsely attended, but that might be because the space itself is massive, a two-million-squarefoot hive of galleries, artists’ work spaces, recording studios and boulevard-size hallways that seem to go on forever.

“The crazy thing is that there are bunches of other factory buildings like this in the area that are just orange paint: There is not a single occupied house in any direction.

Of course, not everyone has embraced this urban art movement. The Heidelberg Project’s Whitfield acknowledges that they haven’t always been welcomed by Detroiters. “Our twenty-year history has been turbulent,” she acknowledges.

“There are people who say, ‘Well, I wouldn’t want this in my community.’ I always tell them that’s because they don’t need it in their community.” She points out that people from the neighborhood have found ways to benefit from the project, selling bottled water to tourists or sending their children to Heidelberg Project–funded art programs. Also, the art has helped to reduce crime. “These houses that Tyree has transformed used to be magnets for drugs, for prostitution, for crime. You won’t really find that there anymore.”

Other artists have taken an aggressive approach to community relations. Mitch Cope and Gina Reichert, a husband-and-wife team that owns a retail space/gallery in the Hamtramck neighborhood, recently purchased a residence for $1,900. They plan to convert it into an off-thegrid “Powerhouse” covered in solar panels and running direct current into other houses on the street free of charge. “We’ve worked hard to educate the community about what we’re doing,” Cope says. For instance, inviting local children to paint the exterior of the building, sharing vegetables from their garden, taking the time to give tours when neighbors ask them what they’re up to.

It’s been working. “A month or so ago we had these guys try

sitting empty,” Greg says.

On the way home, he points out a lone house in the middle of a field of vacant lots. “A group of architecture students built that for practice,” he explains. “They bought the land from a strip-club owner for $500 and two go-go dancer cages.” I turn back to watch the house recede into the night. Soon it is lost in a sea of urban pastureland—a space that’s just a mile away from a massive shopping and office complex called the GM Renaissance Center—where people have reported seeing deer and pheasant.

Later, Brumit stands in his wrecked attic clearing out chunks of drywall and prying out the old floorboards. His family is in Chicago, waiting for him to finish the renovation.

Meanwhile, though, he’s consumed with his vision for a new life in Detroit. “I want to stage a show at Mitch and Gina’s Powerhouse,” he says, “where, instead of a PA system, everybody brings radios tuned to the right frequency and that will be the amplifier system for the event.” He smiles.

Rain begins to fall. Though Brumit has covered the hole in the roof with clear corrugated plastic, a curtain of water cascades along its edge and into the house. Brumit looks up at it and scratches his neck.

“I’ve got to fix up this place, but I’ve also got to learn to weave for a class I’m team-teaching this fall and commute back to Chicago, because, oh yeah, my wife is having a baby!

People ask me how any of this makes sense. Well, it doesn’t. It just feels right.”

He shrugs, ignoring the rain, and gets back to work. “What can I say? Being an artist is…well, it’s a messy business.”

THESE HOUSES USED TO BE MAGNETS FOR CR ME. NO LONGER.

MATT THOMPSON is a writer living in New England.

He hopes someday to buy a house—fire-damaged or otherwise.

RIDING WITH MR.THONG

BY MIKE GUY

PHOTOGRAPHS BY AIDAN DOCKERY

ON THE 50TH ANNIVERSARY OF VIETNAM’S HO CHI MINH TRAIL, THE JOURNEY BY MOTORBIKE FROM HANOI TO HUE IS A REVELATORY EXPERIENCE. AS FOR THE RULES OF THE ROAD, THERE’S REALLY JUST ONE: GO.

CROSSING OVER // The author rides (slowly) across a rickety bridge spanning the Má River.

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IT’S JUST AFTER DAWN IN HANOI,

on the first morning of my trek along the Ho Chi Minh Trail. I’m recovering from a difficult dinner the night before and sweating profusely, though it’s nowhere near as hot as it’ll be when the sun’s overhead. Rivulets run down the inside of my embarrassingly shiny new armored motorcycle jacket. The Honda GL Pro Neotech 1600 bike stands before me like a dreadful sarcophagus on two wheels.

My objective is to ride the trail, which is celebrating its 50th anniversary this summer, south for 410 miles to the former imperial city of Hue. However, I have serious doubts I’ll even make it out of Hanoi alive. Truthfully, I’ve been dreading this day: Hanoi—a quiet Asian city, as Asian cities go—is internationally acclaimed as having the worst traffic in the world. Guidebooks practically beg readers not to ride here.

My guide, Mr. Thong, from the Indochina Trekking Company, arrives on his spotless red Honda. Small of stature, imperturbable and with vast

stores of knowledge, Mr. Thong is a 32-year-old Hanoi native who has ridden every complicated road in Vietnam. He gives me and my sagging saddlebags a look, frowns quickly, and says, “You pack too much. You sure you ready for this?”

No, but I’m going anyway. I mount the bike and kick-start it to life. A hotel employee who’s been standing nearby looking concerned hands me a business card, “In case you need help,” she says.

Buckling my helmet, I ask Mr. Thong if he has any advice about negotiating Hanoi’s roads.

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“Use your horn,” he says. “A lot.”

I follow Mr. Thong into the fray.

Cargo trucks, scooters, motorcycles and bicycles battle for every square inch between the curbs on either side.

There are no discernible road rules whatsoever. No matter the width of the street, right and left lanes appear arbitrary and interchangeable; pedestrians step blithely into the street indifferent to my presence; traffic lights exert little authority.

I shift into third and ease open the throttle. The chaos outside my helmet is almost too much to absorb, so I focus on Mr. Thong’s rear license plate as it darts about. Scooters zip past at odd angles.

Needles are threaded, brakes are locked, tires screech. Following Thong, I pass traffic on both sides, crossing onto the oilsmeared shoulder, then into oncoming traffic. Suddenly, everyone stops to let a big truck cross. I take a deep breath.

Like many mysteries of the third world, it’s an insane system, but somehow it works. A few times, I try to look back before switching lanes until it occurs to me that doing so is actually a liability.

Lesson number one: Honk your horn, have faith and just turn.

AS I QUICKLY DISCOVER, the Ho Chi Minh Trail is less a geographical place than a concept. When Uncle Ho went to war to “liberate” South Vietnam, his army hacked supply routes into the landscape. Over the decades of battle, these paths were further dispersed into an untraceable 10,000-mile network of paths, roads and tunnels winding over mountainsides and through jungles across Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos.

Today, only a fraction of the actual trail is identifiable, and much of that has been paved with asphalt and rebranded the Ho Chi Minh Highway. That’s where we find ourselves riding.

The route that Mr. Thong and I are taking—the narrow swath of countryside from Hanoi to Hue, bordered by Laos and the Gulf of Tonkin—is a stretch rarely mentioned in guidebooks. The popular one I purchased in New York says this segment has “nothing much at all to offer the traveler.” Stunned at such a breezy dismissal, I took that as a challenge. Then I returned the book.

The madness of Hanoi traffic ebbs as we cross into Hoa Binh Province. Mr. Thong waves me into a gas station to fill

PEOPLE’S REPUBLIC // CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: A rolling mountain range outside

Phong Nha, home to vast underground caves; schoolkids riding home; the National Cemetery outside Hue, the resting place for the war’s dead, many of whom are unknown; workers loading bamboo along the Má River; OPPOSITE: harvesting bamboo leaves near Mai Chau.

up, and I drink thirstily from a bottle of water. My hands are shaking. A crowd gathers to admire my jacket. They speak Vietnamese. I just nod and smile.

“Good job,” says Mr. Thong, giving me an encouraging hug. “You used your horn a lot, and you’re alive.”

We turn off the main road and head west to our first stop, a tiny town on stilts called Mai Chau, in a valley of rice paddies. Leafy trees line the road, and we wind lazily through valleys of soybean and corn fields. My hands relax on the handlebars. A mountain range emerges in the distance and we start to climb. For the first time since leaving New York two days ago, I can now clearly imagine surviving the day.

THE NEXT MORNING, I wake up on a straw mat in a raised hut overlooking bright

green rice paddies. My shoulders are sore and taut. With Aidan Dockery, the photographer who joined us the night before, we drink strong, incomparably delicious coffee with sweetened condensed milk. Turns out Vietnam is the world’s second largest exporter of coffee.

The rice stalks in the paddies are tall and beginning to bend with the weight of the seeds.

“When is the harvest?” I ask Mr. Thong.

He gazes across the field and grimaces thoughtfully.

“Eighteen days,” he says finally, sipping his coffee.

“You’re sure it’s not nineteen?”

Dockery asks with a smile.

“Eighteen days.”

We ride out of town as the heat rolls into the valley, and then run along the Má River. This is our first segment of the actual trail, though no sign announces it. We come upon a bamboo factory, where tree trunks are floated down the river and milled into a variety of products: planks, chopsticks and toothpicks. Mostly women work here, their pointed nón lá hats tied tightly under their chins. They smile at me

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PEEKABOO // A Hmong mother with her child and, opposite, stark hills announcing the Laos border

beneath their face masks (a common accessory for women here, owing to a preference for pale skin) and tie bundles of chopsticks—25 to a bundle.

IN VINH THAT NIGHT, I walk out of the hotel for a bowl of pho, a noodle soup that is Vietnam’s national dish. Half dazed from 11 hours on the bike, I squint at the six lanes of heavy traffic separating me from the restaurant. I wait for a gap in the flow of cars, but none comes. It’s like the most perplexing level of Frogger ever devised. Truck headlights blur with scooters. After 20 mesmerizing minutes, I turn around and head back into the hotel, ready to content myself with the crackers in my saddlebag.

At the stairs, I bump into Mr. Thong and tell him about my thwarted dinner attempt. He leads me back to the street.

“Don’t hesitate,” he instructs as we near the road. “And don’t change speeds. Just keep walking.” Without breaking stride or even looking at the oncoming vehicular melee, Mr. Thong takes me by the arm and we step into the traffic, walking straight across.

Scooters and trucks throttled to full

THE PEARL OF THE ORIENT // CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: The raised village of Mai

Chau on the Má River; a cyclist in Pu Luong National Park; breakfast at Hue’s La Residence Hotel; a cyclo bears a heavy load past Hue’s imperial gates.

OPPOSITE: Perfect symmetry along the Perfume River in Hue.

speed pass within inches in front of us (and presumably behind us), but no one honks. Nor do they seem the least put off by our jaywalking. The sea of traffic merely parts.

“And that, my friend, is how you cross a street in Vietnam,” Mr. Thong says.

MUCH OF VIETNAM’S agrarian economy

rides jury-rigged on the back of scooters.

The sampling I witness is mind-boggling: a crazy bundle of scythes bungeed across a seat, blades facing oncoming traffic; a scooter pulling a giant water buffalo crammed into a cage on wheels; a man who’s fastened a seven-foot-tall pile of what appears to be shredded rags to the back of his seat, and then somehow wedged his wife and three children between him and the cargo.

Back in Hanoi I saw a living room set riding slowly through traffic—sofa, 82

• JULY 2009 • UNITED.COM

love seat and easy chair. When I passed, I saw a scooter beneath the furniture, and a rider whose arm lay on the sofa’s armrest, giving him a housewifewatching-The Price Is Right look.

Here, the scooter is the equivalent of a pickup on an American farm or a Mack truck on an interstate.

AS I MOTOR ALONG, I decide that the

Vietnamese countryside might be the best place in the world for motorcycle touring. There are barely any cars, the blacktop is smooth, and the land passes by in a stunning panorama. The only downside—besides the occasional blood-chilling close call with trucks and other bikes—is breaking down.

Dockery’s Honda has been dying since Mai Chau and finally sputters to a stop in an airless valley near the caves of Phong Nha. As we stand sweating on the sandy shoulder, Mr. Thong, a mechanical wizard, begins his methodical diagnosis. A weak breeze riffles the elephant ear undergrowth.

The rumble of an approaching diesel engine carries through the forest, and a cargo truck appears over the hill with a tottering load of chicken-wire cages.

Before I can see what’s in the cages, I hear the whimpers of hundreds of dogs.

“You can bet they aren’t off to the kennel,” Dockery says, winking.

NEARING HUE, MR. THONG waves me to

a stop at an intersection called Dong Loc Road Junction. A tall statue marks the center, and there’s a shrine nearby to 10 teenage girls who manned the crossroads during the “American War.” Mr. Thong explains that from 1968 to 1972, Dong Loc—then a major supply crossroads on the trail—was bombed into oblivion by American warplanes.

“Every square meter of soil here was tilled by bombs many, many times,” Mr. Thong says. At night, the girls would rebuild the road well enough for supplies to pass through, and the B-52s would fly over again in the morning. The girls were killed one day in ’68, and the crater where they died remains as part of the shrine. (Hundreds are killed every year by previously unexploded ordnance.)

“Whenever I come here I feel sad and cold,” Mr. Thong says. “But also proud.

We came through so much, and today we’re full of love.” He’s right. There’s a lot of love in Vietnam.

IN THE SPARKLING CITY of Hue, I park the bike at La Residence, an old French colonial villa that’s been expertly transformed into one of Vietnam’s most exquisite hotels. At the spa, I tell a 90-pound masseuse named Huong not to worry if she can’t manage to unbind my knotted shoulders. “It’s going to be a process rather than a session,” I tell her.

But when I succumb to her expert hands (and feet), I fall deep into a bottomless sleep and wake myself with a loud snore that draws a giggle from Huong.

Before I leave for Saigon the next morning, Mr. Thong joins me for a final lunch of bun bo Hue, a renowned local version of pho. We walk along Dien Bien Phu Street to a food stall in a rough section of town. As we sit, the matron stokes the kitchen fire and drops handfuls of rice noodles, sweet basil and lemongrass—along with a thick, gelatinous cube of boiled pork blood— into stock made from pork and beef.

The smell of fresh chili peppers reaches me and sweat beads on my forehead. I slurp the soup down noisily, savoring every blazing chopstickful—even the supple, succulent pork blood.

It’s complex, unique, challenging and stunningly delicious. Sort of like Vietnam.

Afterward, Mr. Thong and I walk and chew on bamboo toothpicks.

We prepare to part ways at an uncharacteristically quiet intersection along Dien Bien Phu Street.

“You ride well for an American,” he allows and grasps my hand. No sooner have I thanked him than two scooters collide loudly at the intersection. The bikes appear totaled, though the riders are unhurt. They stand there and smile and shake their heads.

“You see?” says Mr. Thong. “That’s the Vietnamese way. Always smiling.”

And then he crosses the street and disappears around a corner.

TRAVEL OPTIONS NEED FOREIGN CURRENCY? Go to united.com/traveloptions to have one of more than 105 foreign

currencies, including the Vietnamese dong, delivered right to your home or office.

departments

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3 Perfect Days

SYDNEY

From Bondi Beach to Woolloomooloo Bay, outdoorsy Sydney is the coolest town Down Under. // BY STEVEN KURUTZ 87 DAY ONE

91 DAY TWO

92 DAY THREE

Touring the Botanic Gardens and iconic Opera House

Splashing in the perfect waves at Bondi Beach

Dropping some dough at the shops of Surry Hills

Bondi Baths on the cliffs of Bondi Beach

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3PD SYDNEY

3PD SYDNEY

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2009

P H O T O G R A P H S C O U R T E SY O F S A L LY M AY M A N/ T O U R I S M N SW ( P R E V I O U S S P R E A D ) ; C L O C K W I S E F R O M L E F T: S I M O N E C O T T R E L L / B O TA N I C GA R D E N S T RU S T, JA I M E P L A Z A / B O TA N I C GA R D E N S T RU S T, CAT H E R I N E K A R N OW, H A M I LT O N L U N D/ T O U R I S M N SW

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WHEN THE FIRST EUROPEAN SETTLERS WASHED ASHORE IN SYDNEY, they found it so inhospitable they weighed anchor, making camp ten miles north, where downtown now stands. There, battling famine, drought and disease, they nearly died off trying to farm the sun-baked land and tame the elements. If only those beleaguered pioneers could see Sydney today. Ferries and pleasure boats cruise the azure waters of a harbor framed by skyscrapers and, beyond that, leafy suburbs that roll like breakers to the coast. In few major cities is the natural environment and its raw beauty so fully on display as it is here; it’s as if the city understands how remote it is from the rest of the world and has amplified its charms to catch our attention.

Natives of restrained Melbourne might consider Sydney too flashy, but where else but in this beach town–with-brains do bankers and hard-bodied surfers coexist in such harmony? (The secret: As often as not, they’re the same people.) And while the local motto may be “No worries,” a measured, hardworking temperament keeps the city from slipping into resort-town frivolity. It’s the right of locals the world over to champion their city as the most beautiful in the world, but when a Sydneysider says it, you might find yourself agreeing.

1

DAY ONE The British settled Sydney in 1788, when a group of convicts and their guards, led by Capt.

Arthur Phillip, finally sailed into the harbor—and that’s where you’ll drop anchor, too. Check into the

Sydney Harbour Marriott (1), a gleaming high-rise that straddles the border between the waterfront and

the steel towers of the Central Business District, or CBD. Is this the hippest hotel in town? Nope. (That’s a place called Establishment.) But you can’t beat the central location or bend-over-backward service, and if you ask for a room with a harbor view on a high floor, you’ll thank yourself for resisting the boutique hotel trend.

Shake off your jet lag (did we mention it’s a darn long flight from just about anywhere?) with a stroll through the Royal Botanic Gardens (2). Lush with exotic plants like the Wollemi Pine, a Jurassic-era tree discovered only 15 years ago in the nearby Blue Mountains, the gardens also showcase another native species—namely, fitnesscrazed Sydneysiders out for a morning jog. Good for them, but you’re going to breakfast. Head to the Andrew “Boy” Charlton Pool, an open-air swimming pool at the gardens’ eastern edge named for an Aussie who won gold in the 1924 Olympics. At the Poolside Café, dig into a heaping

THE CALL OF NATURE

Clockwise from left: Sailboats on Sydney Harbour; shop owner with a didgeridoo; and jogger on Bondi Beach

JULY 2009 | UNITED.COM

3PD SYDNEY

plate of eggs and bacon and watch the swimmers ticking off laps against the backdrop of the extravagantly named Woolloomooloo Bay. Head back into the gardens, keeping both eyes peeled for the grey-headed flying fox, which isn’t a fox at all, but a big and creepy bat that roosts in the trees. Just north of Government House, you’ll catch sight of the majestic Sydney Opera House (3).

Completed in 1973, this unmistakable modernist masterwork, with a design that echoes sails cutting across the bay, is rivaled only by the kangaroo and the shrimp-laden barbie as Australia’s national symbol. All Sydneysiders know its creation story—an unknown Danish architect, Jorn Utzon, wins the commission, falls out with officials over rising costs, quits the project and leaves Australia a tormented man, just like his fellow Dane, Hamlet.

He’s re-embraced by planners in his final years and consults on renovations in 2004. You’ll learn all this on the tour, which ends at the pricey outdoor Opera Bar. Bridle though you may at the cost of the cold lager, as you take in the views showcasing the design genius of both man and Mother Nature, you’ll conclude that youthinks you doth protest too much.

The history lesson isn’t over yet. Navigate your way through the bustle of Circular Quay, a kind of Grand Central Station for ferries (tossing spare change to the half-naked guys playing the didgeridoo, the aboriginal wind instrument, is strictly optional) and wander around the Rocks. The city’s oldest neighborhood, it was built by convicts, and its charming streets are appropriately crooked. Half a dozen pubs here claim to be Sydney’s first—among them the Lord Nelson Brewery Hotel (4), with sandstone walls and small-batch homebrews including Nelson’s Blood. After a pint, head to Cafe Sydney (5), a chic rooftop spot with a clear shot of the Harbour Bridge (views in Sydney are like bottles of wine in Burgundy: abundant, yet you’ll want to drink up every one).

As the sun descends, walk back to the hotel, change into your party duds and catch a cab to Kings Cross, the go-to spot since the 1960s for club crawlers and visiting sailors. The redlight district is tamer now than when the reputed gangster Abe Saffron, a.k.a. “The Boss of the Cross,” ran the action. But you’ll still find a frenetic strip of bars and nightclubs that range from

THE CARTING BUSINESS Serving up the Tiger pie, a hearty favorite, at Harry’s Café de Wheels.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY MATTHEW WOODSON

CLAIRE PRENTER // LAWYER

“I like to head down to Elizabeth Bay park. It’s a tiny nook tucked behind the apartments right on the harbor. You can sit on the grass and watch the boats go by and forget that you’re in the middle of the metropolis.”

C L O C K W I S E F R O M R I G H T: P H O T O G R A P H S BY D E N N I S C OX /A L A M Y, R O B G R I F F I T H /A P, C O U R T E SY O F H A R RY ’ S CA F E D E W H E E L S , C O U R T E SY O F JA M I E P L A Z A / B O TA N I C GA R D E N S T RU S T

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SHIP TO SHORE

The Circular Quay forms the hub of Sydney’s bustling harbor; opposite, the view from the Botanic Garden

SEEING DOUBLE

Après-surf at Bondi Beach

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ALEX MACPHERSON // DIGITAL STUDIO MANAGER

“Lunch or coffee at any one of Bronte Beach’s cafés is a great way to treat yourself when you arrive. And in Bondi, there is nothing better than settling in for an afternoon beer with all the Bondi locals at the North Bondi RSL Club on the beach.”

C L O C K W I S E F R O M L E F T: P H O T O G R A P H S BY CAT H E R I N E K A R N OW, DAV I D M E S S E N T/ P H O T O L I B R A RY, C O U R T E SY O F T O U R I S M N SW, C O U R T E SY O F F I N D E R S K E E P E R S , C O U R T E SY O F K I R R I B I L L I , C O U R T E SY O F T O U R I S M N SW, C O U R T E SY O F P I E R R E T O U R S A I N T/ T O U R I S M N SW

BLUE STREAK Tamarama Beach, above, is a short walk from the more festive Bondi, below right.

roughneck to ritzy, like the Piano Room (6)—a cocktail lounge one story up with live music and a wall of windows overlooking the chaos below. Afterward, amble a block over to Hugo’s Lounge, a packed club with the glossy look of a hip-hop video set, and dance until the jetlag slows you down. By now it’s after midnight, i.e., time for a meat pie at Harry’s Café de Wheels (7), a food shack that’s served up Australia’s staple dishes since the 1930s. Order the Tiger (a pastry filled with beef and topped with peas and potatoes). Russell Crowe keeps an apartment on the wharf here. Watch for falling cell phones.

2

DAY TWO Drawing back the curtains, you’re greeted by crystalline blue skies—a perfect beach day. First, though, you need coffee. Toby’s Estate (1) brews a

strong cup and has a few locations around town, including one on Cathedral Street in Woolloomooloo, walkable from the hotel. Young artistic types breeze in and out, but you hardly notice as you sip a chai latte and tuck into a healthy bowl of muesli.

Now you can partake in another local passion: shopping. Direct your cab driver to Paddington Markets (2), and get lost amid the maze of stands that sell handmade jewelry, clothing and art. As you drop $15 for a pair of aviators, you realize the sun is currently more radiant than Hugh Jackman’s smile: beach time!

There may be strands more bucolic, remote or relaxed—but none is more famed than Bondi Beach (3). If Brian Wilson were Australian, he’d have written endless odes to this curved sliver of sand on the Pacific. Bronzed surf dudes and their bikini-clad companions parade along the sand as if filming a Down Under version

THE PLUNDER DOWN UNDER You didn’t travel to the far end of the world to come back empty-handed.

Find the market that’s best for you, and buy yourself something nice.

Paddington

Glebe

Kirribilli

Finders Keepers

WHEN

Every Saturday

Every Saturday

Fourth Saturday of the month

Twice yearly

WHERE

St. John’s Church, 395 Oxford Street

Glebe Public School, corner of Derby Place and Glebe Point Road

Burton Street Tunnel

245 Wilson Street, Everleigh

VIBE

The granddaddy of city markets has gone upscale in its old age

Your aging hippie uncle is throwing a sprawling yard sale

A just-right mix of new and old, with food vendors to keep you recharged

Cool and Oz-edgy, with arty collectors in cream linen and Persol shades

WHAT TO HUNT FOR

Handmade jewelry, aboriginal dream catchers, holistic skin products straight from the outback

A first Australian pressing of AC/DC’s Back in Black on vinyl

A tattered pair of vintage jeans by Aussie label Sass & Bide

A work by the next famous Aussie artist, and (totally legal) hemp seed cookies

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FLIPPING OUT Try your luck with two-up // Often called “Australia’s National Game,” two-up is a peculiar coin-toss betting game invented in the 18th century, popularized by Aussie soldiers in WWI and now played in Sydney casinos.

It involves laying two coins on a wooden paddle, or “kip,” and then tossing them simultaneously. Before each flip, crowds of Aussies shout “$5 on heads!” or “$20 on tails!” and scan the room for an opposite wager. Once a year, on Anzac Day, Australia’s Memorial Day, two-up fans take to the streets in honor of soldiers, and betting in public is legal. Not exactly chess, but it goes well with beer.

of Baywatch. Sit back, relax and roast under the fierce sun (hopefully you’re already well acquainted with the wonders of sunscreen). Later, take a sunset walk along the cliff path connecting Bondi to neighboring beaches like Tamarama and Bronte. The views of the Pacific are jaw-dropping, as are the million-dollar homes clinging to the mountainside.

By the time you return to Bondi, dusk has come and gone, and you make your way along the boardwalk for dinner at North Bondi Italian (4), an oceanside restaurant serving hearty pasta dishes in a cozy, wood-lined space. This place gets packed on weekends, so put your name on the list, and go to the bar for a glass of wine; try Villa Maria, a Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand.

Back at the hotel, you rinse off that stray sand, then it’s a short walk to Hemmesphere (5), a swanky bar in the CBD that’s part of a très hip hotel, Establishment. An attractive stranger sitting nearby suggests the Lotus martini, which turns out to be sound advice. Is that pureed passion fruit you taste? Whatever it is, it goes down smooth and soothes the sting you might be feeling after a day under the australis sun. A good night’s rest beckons.

3

DAY THREE After all that

excitement, a lazy day padding around the city sounds just about right. First stop: Bill’s (1), a renowned breakfast spot in Darlinghurst run by chef Bill Granger, whose light food echoes the airy environs. From here, stroll down Victoria Street toward the bohemian burg of Potts Point. Watch the crowds at Fitzroy Gardens, a lovely park accented by the El Alamein Fountain.

Down the way is tiny Macleay Bookshop (2), where you buy a copy of local Peter Carey’s classic 30 Days in Sydney.

With the afternoon stretching before you, hail a cab to Surry Hills (3). Several eclectic shops line Cleveland Street, on the neighborhood’s southern edge, like David Met Nicole, which sells a well-

DANIELLE AZAR // MARKETING MANAGER “The Carriage Works are

the new social and artistic center of Sydney. They’re old railway workshops near the Chippendale area. The storehouses have been converted into art galleries and theater and market spaces. It’s got a reputation for being rough, but it’s not.”

C L O C K W I S E F R O M B O T T O M L E F T: P H O T O G R A P H S BY E Z R A S H AW/G E T T Y I M AG E S , J E R E M Y S I M O N S , C O U R T E SY O F T O U R I S M N SW

OH, DARLING In Darlinghurst, Bill’s, above left, is a great breakfast spot; and Chee Soon & Fitzgerald, right, sells handmade homewares in Surry Hills.

3PD SYDNEY

AUST RA LI A

Sydney Harbour Tunnel

Walsh Bay

4

Sydney •

3

5

Farm Cove

2

Darling Harb

1 5 7

our

5 7 Kent St. Pitt St.

Crown St .

Elizabeth St.

1

4

Elizabeth Bay

2 6

Cross City Tunnel Eastbound

1 St. Ocean

Oxf ord

St.

Moore Park R d

.

2 6

3

3 4 0

3 Miles

M A P I L L U T R AT I O N BY S T E V E S TA N K I E W I C Z

THOSE 3 PERFECT DAYS DAY ONE (1) Sydney Harbour Marriott 30 Pitt St.; Tel: 612-9259-7000 (2) Royal Botanic Gardens Mrs Macquaries Rd.; Tel: 612-9231-8111 (3) Sydney Opera House Bennelong Point; Tel: 612-9250-7111 (4) Lord Nelson Brewery Hotel 19 Kent St.; Tel: 612-9251-4044 (5) Cafe Sydney 31 Alfred St.; Tel: 612-9251-8683 (6) Piano Room Kings Cross Rd. at Darlinghurst Rd.; Tel: 612-9356-8238 (7) Harry’s Café de Wheels Cowper Wharf Roadway at Brougham Rd.; Tel: 612-9357-3074 DAY TWO (1) Toby’s Estate 129 Cathedral St.; Tel: 612-9358-1196 (2) Paddington Markets 395 Oxford St.; Tel: 612-9331-2923 (3) Bondi Beach Between Ben Buckler and Mackenzie Point (4) North Bondi Italian 120 Ramsgate Ave.; Tel: 612-9300-4400 (5) Hemmesphere Level 4, 252 George St.; Tel: 612-9240-3040 DAY THREE (1) Bill’s 433 Liverpool St.; Tel: 612-9360-9631 (2) Macleay Bookshop 103 Macleay St.; Tel: 612-9358-2908 (3) Surry Hills South of Darlinghurst (4) Spice I Am 90 Wentworth Ave.; Tel: 612-9280-0928 (5) Red Eye Records 66 King St.; Tel: 612-9299-4233 (6) Bistro Moncur 116 Queen St.; Tel: 612-9327-9713 (7) Summit 264 George St.; Tel: 612-9247-9777

BOARDING PASS

Lie flat to the Land Down Under in United First or United Business, or enjoy up to five extra inches of legroom in United Economy Plus. United’s daily 747 service links Sydney with Los Angeles and San Francisco, with convenient connections on United and United Express to dozens more cities throughout the United States, Canada and Mexico. Thinking about comfort and convenience?

No worries—United’s got you covered.

FEELING LIGHT-HEADED

A vintage beacon marks the Barrenjoey Headland near Palm Beach.

3PD SYDNEY

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2009

95

C L O C W I S E F R O M L E F T: P H O T O G R A P H S C O U R T E SY O F H A M I LT O N L U N D/ T O U R I S M N SW, C O U R T E SY O F B I S T R O M O N C U R , C O U R T E SY O F S U M M I T R E S TAU R A N T, C O U R T E SY O F D O N NA H AY G E N E R A L S T O R E

OUI, MONSIEUR The dining room at the Bistro Moncur, left, and Summit’s aged black angus beef.

curated mix of new and vintage decor items. Feeling hungry, you’re lucky to snag a table at Spice I Am (4), a trendy Thai restaurant that deliciously captures the Asian influence on Sydney’s cuisine. Seeing a rocker dude waiting for a seat, you remember you wanted to track down a record by Rose Tattoo, the unheralded ’70s “Oz rock” band from Sydney, so after lunch you hit Red Eye Records (5) near Chinatown, and snag a copy of the band’s criminally underrated third album.

Ready to go upscale? Head to the tony eastern suburb of Woollahra, an Aboriginal word meaning “you can’t afford it here” (actually, it means meeting ground).

Window shop in the storefronts along Queen Street, then try a macaroon at the pastry counter inside Donna Hay’s General Store, a gift shop run by the antipodean version of Martha Stewart. You pass row houses built in Sydney’s signature architectural style, the terrace home, their facades painted and dressed up like debutantes at a ball. Your final stop is Bistro Moncur (6), chef Damian Pignolet’s classic French standby and a mainstay of Sydney’s elegant dining scene, where you’ll grab an early dinner of exquisitely slow-roasted Kurobuta pork with crackling and salsa verde.

After dessert, you suddenly decide you want another of those spectacular city views. But where? There are so many great spots. Though you’re loathe to follow the beaten path, there’s a reason Summit (7), a bar on the 47th floor of an office tower in the CBD, is a longstanding tourist magnet. The walls are floor-to-ceiling glass, and the room slowly rotates, so there’s not a bad seat in the joint. There it is—all of Sydney stretched out before you: the Opera House; the Harbour Bridge; the magnificent bay, and, somewhere out in the inky night, Bondi Beach. In that moment you remember the plane ride here and think maybe it wasn’t so long after all.

BEACHY KEEN Get out of town. Way out. // Ask Sydneysiders for day trip ideas, and they’ll point you to Palm Beach, which is an hour car ride north. Rustic, anachronistic and cinematic as heck, Palm lies on a spit of land separating the Pacific from Broken Bay, and it’s famous as the backdrop for Home and Away, a soap that starred Heath Ledger and Isabel Lucas of Transformers: Revenge of the Fallen. Crowds descend on weekends, and the vibe is inevitably fashionable, but remote beauty is nearby.

Barrenjoey Headland (at left), just to the north and part of the Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park, is home to a 128-yearold lighthouse. Spend a day here and Sydney will seem like a megacity.

New York Times contributor STEVEN KURUTZ lost his rent money playing two-up. He plans to win it back some day.

DONNA HAY // MAGAZINE PUBLISHER, LIFESTYLE GURU

“There are divine little community beaches near Palm Beach that are like going back in time. My friends have a house at Great Mackerel Beach. There are no cars, and people bring their tables down to the shore. Someone lights a bonfire. It’s a bit Robinson Crusoe, and it’s only 20 minutes on the ferry.”

IT’S A GOOD THING The Donna Hay General Store, below, is home base for Australia’s answer to lifestyle maven Martha Stewart.

TRAVEL GUIDE

BUMBOUB t EBMMBT t IVOUTWJMMF t MBT WFHBT t MPT BOHFMFT t TBOUB BOB

Atlanta ~ 404.872.3902 Huntsville ~ 256.327.8385

Atlanta ~ 404.872.3903 Los Angeles ~ 323.460.6300 Santa Ana ~ 714.564.0350

Los Angeles ~ 323.468.8815

Huntsville ~ 256.327.8390 Los Angeles ~ 310.289.8590 Washington DC (Now Open) ~ 301.749.7099

Los Angeles ~ 323.462.7674

Atlanta ~ 404.872.3364

Dallas ~ 214.740.0555

702.693.5500 (Now Open in the Hard Rock Hotel and Casino Las Vegas) CALL TODAY TO BOOK YOUR RESERVATION OR PRIVATE EVENT. ~Birthdays, Anniversaries, Corporate Events~

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2009

WELCOME TO MODERN. CIRCA NOW. NOW OPEN

“BOLDLY PLANNED AND EXQUISITELY CRAFTED” —Chicago Tribune

Experience Chicago’s Greatest High

Start your trip with 1,000 ft views of Chicago and the endless entertainment will make you never want to come down.

Open 8am to 11pm daily.

875 N. Michigan Avenue.

Call 1-888-875-VIEW. www.hancockobservatory.com

360°Views of 4 States Complimentary Concierge Open-Air Skywalk Free Multimedia Tour Espression by Lavazza café America’s Fastest Elevators

97

Want more from business travel?

805 lounges Alliance-wide.

You’ve earned it.

As a Star Alliance Gold member, you’ll have access to 805 airport lounges across the alliance to relax in before you fly. To find out more about our rewards visit staralliance.com

www.staralliance.com

Information correct as at 09/2008

ENTERTAINMENT & INFORMATION

JULY 2009

PLAY 100 AUDIO PROGRAMMING 107 UNITED DESTINATIONS 110 TERMINAL DIAGRAMS 114 ALLIANCES & PARTNERSHIPS 119 CUSTOMS AND IMMIGRATION 120 CROSSWORD 122 SUDOKU & QUIZ 124 BEVERAGES & FOOD 128 FILMS & TELEVISION

FILM & TELEVISION FILMS ARE ONLY SHOWN on flights that are three hours or longer. Movies available on most 747, 757, 767, 777, A319 and A320 aircraft flights of three hours or longer. Schedules and selections are subject to change. International Language Tracks / (S) Películas están disponsibles en Español en todas las rutas domesticas en el canal 10.

WESTBOUND

EASTBOUND FILM

TELEVISION

FILM

TELEVISION

JULY 1-15

NORTH AMERICA

JULY 1-15

Two and a Half Men [T] / The Secret

JULY 1-15 Dragonball Evolution JULY 16-31

Life of Elephants / The Office [T]

30 Rock [T]

Duplicity

JULY 16-31

JULY 16-31

JULY 16-31

Time Warp / Globe Trekker

Monsters vs. Aliens

Time Warp / Top Chef

JULY 1-15

This American Life [T]

17 Again

The Simpsons

Top Design Everybody Hates Chris [T]

FILM

TELEVISION

JULY 1-15

Two and a Half Men [T] / The Secret

FILM

TELEVISION

JULY 1-15

HAWAII

Monsters vs. Aliens

Life of Elephants / The Office [T]

JULY 16-31 *Both films available on flights

The Simpsons

Time Warp / Top Chef 30 Rock [T]

Duplicity

JULY 16-31

*Both films available on flights

This American Life [T]

Time Warp / Globe Trekker

between Denver/Chicago and Hawaii

JULY 1-15

17 Again JULY 16-31

JULY 16-31

Dragonball Evolution

JULY 1-15

Top Design

between Denver/Chicago and Hawaii

Everybody Hates Chris [T]

FILM

TELEVISION

FILM

TELEVISION JULY 1-15

JULY 1-15

Chuck [T]

The Mentalist [T] / Time Warp Tim Gunn’s Guide To Style

JULY 1-15

JFK — SFO/LAX

The Big Bang Theory [T]

JULY 1-15

Dragonball Evolution

JULY 16-31

Duplicity

Top Design

JULY 16-31

Eli Stone [T]

JULY 16-31

JULY 16-31

Monsters vs. Aliens

Two And A Half Men [T]

17 Again

Top Chef Everybody Hates Chris [T]

Doing Da Vinci

Mythbusters [T]

FILM FILM

SOUTHBOUND

TELEVISION TELEVISION

FILM FILM

NORTHBOUND

JULY 1-15

JULY 1-15 JULY 1-15

MEXICO & CARIBBEAN

Everybody Hates Chris [T]

Duplicity Dupl Duplicit icity y

Eureka [T]

Duplicidad Duplicid Dupl icidad ad

Desperate Housewives [T]

JULY 16-31

JULY 16-31

17 Again

[T] Two And A Half Men [T] / Chuck [T Ugly Betty [T]

TELEVISION TELEVISION

JULY 1-15 Dragonball Evolution Dragonball Evolución JULY 16-31 Monsters vs. Aliens Monstruos vs. Aliens

Two And A Half Men [T] / Chuck [T] Ugly Betty [T] JULY 16-31 Everybody Hates Chris [T] Eureka [T] Desperate Housewives [T]

“WHEN YOU’VE GOT THREE TODDLERS IN THE HOUSE YOU’RE PERFORMING ALL DAY LONG, ANYWAY, WITH PUPPET SHOWS AND STORIES—I ACT AROUND THE CLOCK.” —Julia Roberts, Duplicity, Telegraph

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2009

(S) Spanish (G) German (C) Chinese (J) Japanese

DRAGONBALL EVOLUTION

1 hr.

25 min.

DUPLICITY

101

[V] Violence [S] Sexual Situations [T] Adult Themes

2 hr.

A live action adaptation of the hugely popular manga, Dragonball centers on a humanoid alien named Goku who is trying to fulfill the wish of his dying grandfather: He must collect all seven mystical Dragon Balls in the world—which are said to grant the holder one perfect wish—to keep them out of evil hands.

FEATURING Justin Chatwin, Yun-Fat Chow, Emmy Rossum DIRECTED BY James Wong 20th Century Fox

This thriller, written and directed by Tony Gilroy, stars Academy Award–winner Julia Roberts and Academy Award–nominee Clive Owen as longtime lovers and corporate spies who team up to stage an elaborate con to rip off their rival companies.

FEATURING Julia Roberts, Clive Owen, Paul Giamatti DIRECTED BY Tony Gilroy Universal Studios

MONSTERS VS. ALIENS

17 AGAIN

1 hr.

34 min.

When Susan Murphy is clobbered by a meteor, she mysteriously grows to 49 feet, 11 inches tall and is labeled a “monster” named Ginormica. She is captured and held in a secret government compound with a motley crew of monsters. Their confinement time is cut short, however, when an alien robot begins storming the country. The monsters must save the world.

VOICES BY Reese Witherspoon, Hugh Laurie, Will Arnett DIRECTED BY Rob Letterman, Conrad Vernon Paramount Pictures

1 hr.

42 min.

In the class of 1989, Mike O’Donnell is a star on his high school basketball team with a college scout watching him play and a bright future ahead. He decides instead to share his life with girlfriend Scarlett and the baby they are expecting. Almost 20 years later, Mike is given another chance when he is transformed back to the age of 17.

FEATURING Zac Efron, Matthew Perry, Leslie Mann DIRECTED BY Burr Steers New Line Cinema

FILM & TELEVISION — 747 PROGRAMMING INTERNATIONAL LANGUAGE TRACKS (G) Die Aufflistungder Sprachen für ausgewählte Spielfilme finden Sie für die 747-400 Maschinen auf Kanal 2 für alle weiteren Maschinen auf Kanal 10. (J) トラック 言語本の長編映画をチャンネル2と747-400航空機上の他の飛行機内でのチャネル10で選択されています (C) 在 747-400型飞机上这些故事片的音频位于第 10频道. 在其他型号的飞机上位于第2频道

Digital media loading occurs between the 25th and 5th of each month. As a result, please understand if your flight features a different line-up before and after the start of each month.

WESTBOUND

EASTBOUND FILM

TELEVISION

The Pink Panther 2

GERMANY

TELEVISION

He’s Just Not That Into You (G)

Der Rosarote Panther 2 (G) Confessions of a Shopaholic (G)

FILM

New in Town (G)

Duplicity (G)

Grey’s Anatomy [T] Top Design

*17 Again (G)

Two and a Half Men [T]

Dragonball Evolution (G) *Monsters vs. Aliens (G)

Desperate Housewives [T] Doing Da Vinci This American Life [T]

*West Coast only *West Coast only

FILM

TELEVISION

JAPAN

Confessions of a Shopaholic (G)

Two and a Half Men [T]

New in Town (G)

The Mentalist [T]

Duplicity (G)

Top Design

Dragonball Evolution (G)

17 Again (G)

Desperate Housewives [T]

Monsters vs. Aliens (G)

Top Chef Click

FILM

TELEVISION

The Pink Panther 2 ピンクパンサー２ (J) 粉红豹 2 (C) Confessions of a Shopaholic (J) (C) Duplicity (J) (C) *17 Again セブンティーン・アゲイン (J) 青春高校: 回到17 歲 (C)

SINGAPORE– HONG KONG VIETNAM– HONG KONG

The Pink Panther 2 ピンクパンサー２ (J) 粉红豹 2 (C) Confessions of a Shopaholic (J) (C) Duplicity (J) (C) 17 Again セブンティーン・アゲイン (J) 青春高校: 回到17 歲 (C)

そんな彼なら捨てちゃえば？(J) 收錯愛情風 (C)

Eureka [T]

New in Town (J) (C)

Click

Two and a Half Men [T]

Dragonball Evolution (J)

HARDtalk

Dragon Ball 七龙珠 (C)

Peschardt’s People

The Real…

*Monsters vs. Aliens (J) (C) *East Coast/ORD only

FILM

TELEVISION

He’s Just Not That Into You Desperate Housewives [T] Eureka [T] Everybody Hates Chris [T]

そんな彼なら捨てちゃえば？(J) 收錯愛情風 (C) New in Town (J) (C) Dragonball Evolution (J)

The Alaska Experiment How Stuff Works Time Warp

Dragon Ball 七龙珠 (C) Monsters vs. Aliens (J) (C)

Last Chance Harvey (J)

Desperate Housewives [T]

InkHeart

The Real / Click

愛‧從心開始 (C)

Eureka [T]

インクハート (J)

HARDtalk / Peschardt’s People

Everybody Hates Chris [T]

墨水心 (C)

Hong Kong to Ho Chi Minh City Desperate Housewives [T] / Eureka [T] / Everybody Hates Chris [T]

Hong Kong to Ho Chi Minh City The Real / Click / HARDtalk / Peschardt’s People

TELEVISION

FILM

愛‧從心開始 (C)

The Real / Click

インクハート (J)

Confessions of a Shopaholic (J) (C)

HARDtalk / Peschardt’s People

墨水心 (C)

Eureka [T]

New in Town (J) (C)

Everybody Hates Chris [T]

FILM Last Chance Harvey (J)

JAPAN– THAILAND

TELEVISION

Desperate Housewives [T]

TELEVISION

FILM

FILM He’s Just Not That Into You

*East Coast/ORD flights only

CHINA & HONG KONG

TELEVISION

He’s Just Not That Into You (G)

Der Rosarote Panther 2 (G)

AUSTRALIA

FILM

TELEVISION

InkHeart Desperate Housewives [T]

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2009

CUSTOMERS ARE WELCOME TO VIEW their own video entertainment aboard a United aircraft as long as they are able to show the programming has an MPAA rating of “R” or less.

MOST FILMS HAVE BEEN EDITED FOR AIRLINE USE. However, customer discretion is still advised. Content guidelines are provided as a courtesy to our customers in choosing whether to view a film.

CONFESSIONS OF A SHOPAHOLIC

HE’S JUST NOT THAT INTO YOU

1 hr.

45 min.

2 hr.

4 min.

(S) Spanish (G) German (C) Chinese (J) Japanese

INKHEART

103

[V] Violence [S] Sexual Situations [T] Adult Themes

1 hr.

46 min.

Sweet, charming New Yorker Rebecca has a problem that is becoming a nightmare: She’s hopelessly addicted to shopping and drowning in debt. When her compulsive spending threatens to destroy her love life and derail her career, she struggles to keep it all from spiraling out of control—and discovers what’s really important in life.

Based on the novel by Sophie Kinsella.

FEATURING Isla Fisher, Hugh Dancy, Joan Cusack DIRECTED BY P.J. Hogan Touchstone Pictures

An all-star cast is featured in the stories of a group of interconnected, Baltimore-based twenty- and thirtysomethings as they navigate their various relationships from the shallow end of the dating pool through the deep, murky waters of married life. Trying to read the signs of the opposite sex, each hopes to be the exception to the “no exceptions” rule.

FEATURING Ben Affleck, Jennifer Aniston, Scarlett Johansson DIRECTED BY Ken Kwapis New Line Cinema

Mortimer “Mo” Folchart and his 12-year-old daughter, Meggie, share a gift for bringing characters from books to life. But when a character is brought to life from a book, a real person disappears into its pages. When Mo finds a book he’s been looking for since Meggie was three—when her mother, Resa, disappeared—it throws their lives into turmoil.

FEATURING Brendan Fraser, Paul Bettany, Helen Mirren DIRECTED BY Iain Softley New Line Cinema

LAST CHANCE HARVEY

NEW IN TOWN

THE PINK PANTHER 2

1 hr.

32 min.

Harvey Shine goes to London for his estranged daughter’s wedding—but she asks her stepfather to give her away. Things get worse when Harvey misses his flight home, and his boss fires him. At the airport bar, Harvey bumps into Kate. The meeting leads to lunch, a walk around London and an unlikely romance that will give Harvey a last chance for happiness.

FEATURING Dustin Hoffman, Emma Thompson, James Brolin DIRECTED BY Joel Hopkins Paramount Pictures

1 hr.

33 min.

Lucy Hill, an up-and-coming executive, is offered a temporary assignment to restructure a manufacturing plant in the middle of nowhere. She jumps at the opportunity, knowing it could mean a promotion. After enduring a frosty reception from the locals, icy roads and freezing weather, she warms up to the small town.

Lucy discovers greater meaning in her life—and finds the man of her dreams.

FEATURING Renée Zellweger, Harry Connick Jr., J.K. Simmons DIRECTED BY Jonas Elmer Lionsgate Entertainment

1 hr.

32 min.

In The Pink Panther 2, the sequel to the 2006 hit, Steve Martin reprises the role of intrepid-if-bumbling French police detective Inspector Jacques Clouseau. When the priceless Pink Panther Diamond is stolen, Chief Inspector Dreyfus (John Cleese) is forced to assign Clouseau to a team of detectives and experts charged with catching the thief and retrieving the stolen gem.

FEATURING Steve Martin, Lily Tomlin, John Cleese DIRECTED BY Harold Zwart Sony Pictures

IF YOUR AIRCRAFT IS EQUIPPED with in-seat video, refer to the separate Play guide located in your seat pocket.

FILM & TELEVISION TELEVISION DESCRIPTIONS The views contained in the video content are not necessarily those of United.

TWO AND A HALF MEN

THE SIMPSONS

30 ROCK

Eastbound passengers flying the first half of the month can catch “Taterhead is our Love Child,” in which Charlie encounters an ex-girlfriend whose son looks an awful lot like him.

Flying east the second half of the month? In “The Debarted,” Bart befriends a new kid at school, unaware that he’s a snitch, and after his car is damaged, Homer ends up with a fancy loaner.

In “Goodbye, My Friend,” showing on westbound flights July 1-15, Liz befriends a donut shop employee in an attempt to adopt her baby; Jenna vies for attention as her birthday approaches.

TOP DESIGN

THE SECRET LIFE OF ELEPHANTS

TIME WARP

Later in the month, westbound passengers won’t want to miss the season two finale: Three remaining designers decorate a house from scratch. One will be awarded the title of Top Design.

Passengers flying east the first half of the month can get in touch with nature: A drought tightens its grip, so baby Breeze and her family must compete with other elephant families for food and water.

Cameras capture a champion sharpshooter, Jon Mayer and Jim Stump stop by, Schlieren camera gets a try out, and the team meets an inventor in “Sharpshooter,” on eastbound flights at the beginning of the month.

THIS AMERICAN LIFE

Want a Dating Service That’s as Savvy as You Are? Meet Your Match.

Dating specialist Sara Darling reveals the ins and outs of helping single professionals spice up their dating lives.

She’s one of the many expert consultants at It’s Just Lunch — the personal dating service that’s helped countless people around the globe make exciting connections.

What typically gets between singles and a rewarding dating life? ) D SAY THE TOP THREE CHALLENGES ARE MAKING THE TIME KNOWING WHERE TO lND LIKE MINDED PEOPLE AND PROTECTING YOUR PERSONAL PRIVACY &OR MOST PEOPLE THE PROBLEM IS VERY RARELY GETTING A DATE 4HE PROBLEM IS ACTUALLY CONNECTING WITH SOMEONE INTERESTING WHO YOU RE ATTRACTED TO AND WHO YOU CAN REALLY HAVE FUN WITH

CONlDENTIAL SO IT MAKES TAKING THAT NEXT STEP A LOT EASIER )N FACT WE NEVER SHARE LAST NAMES OR PHONE NUMBERS WITH CLIENTS EVEN WHEN WE MATCH PEOPLE FOR A DATE

) HAVE A LOT OF CLIENTS WHO ARE VERY ACTIVE IN THE COMMUNITY AND IN THE BUSINESS WORLD WHO COME TO ME SPECIlCALLY BECAUSE THEY DON T WANT TO DATE WITHIN THOSE SAME CIRCLES )T S TOO UNCOMFORTABLE

What are the most common dating mistakes you see? .UMBER ONE IS PUTTING TOO MUCH PRESSURE ON YOURSELF 4HIS HAPPENS A LOT WITH PEOPLE WHO DON T HAVE A LOT OF CONNECTIONS TO OTHER SINGLES 4HEY MEET SOMEONE AND THINK h) VE GOT TO MAKE THIS WORK OUT )T COULD BE SIX MONTHS BEFORE ) lND SOMEONE ELSE EVEN REMOTELY INTERESTING v -Y CLIENTS KNOW THAT ) HAVE PLENTY OF GREAT MATCHES FOR THEM SO THEY CAN RELAX AND NOT FEEL RUSHED

) ALSO WORK WITH PEOPLE WHO HAVE RECENTLY MOVED OR WHO HAVE ENDED A LONG TERM RELATIONSHIP AND JUST DON T KNOW WHERE TO START LOOKING 4HE BAR SCENE ISN T TYPICALLY A VIABLE OPTION !ND WHEN IT COMES TO ONLINE DATING THERE S NOT ENOUGH SECURITY OR PERSONAL PRIVACY .O ONE WANTS TO BE 'OOGLED OR CONTINUOUSLY EMAILED BY PEOPLE THEY HAVE NO INTEREST IN DATING What’s the best way to meet compatible people?

-AKING A CONNECTION THROUGH SOMEONE WHO REALLY KNOWS YOU AND IS LOOKING OUT FOR YOU IS THE KEY TO SUCCESS ) THINK THAT S WHY )T S *UST ,UNCH HAS GROWN TO BE SUCH A RESPECTED ORGANIZATION OVER THE PAST YEARS /UR DATING CONSULTANTS HANDLE EVERYTHING IN A VERY PERSONALIZED AND EFlCIENT MANNER x FROM lNDING THE RIGHT MATCHES TO MAKING ALL THE ARRANGEMENTS FOR A DATE !LL OUR CLIENTS HAVE TO DO IS SHOW UP AND FOCUS ON HAVING FUN WITH SOMEONE NEW Why do people trust you with their personal lives? ) THINK IT COMES DOWN TO DISCRETION

STANDARDS AND PERSONAL SERVICE 7HEN PEOPLE CALL ME TO SCHEDULE AN INTERVIEW IT S USUALLY BECAUSE THEY VE MADE A DECISION TO MAKE A PROACTIVE CHANGE IN THEIR PERSONAL LIVES !ND OUR SERVICE IS COMPLETELY

!NOTHER MAJOR DISTINCTION IS THAT WE PERSONALLY HAND SELECT EVERY MATCH 7E RE NOT LIKE DATING SERVICES THAT BELIEVE AN ALGORITHM IS A GOOD WAY TO MATCH PEOPLE 7HAT WE DO IS MORE OF AN ART THAN A SCIENCE

4HE OTHER MISTAKE PEOPLE MAKE IS REPEATEDLY DATING THE SAME TYPE OF PERSON AND EXPECTING DIFFERENT RESULTS ) ALWAYS ENCOURAGE MY CLIENTS TO OPEN THEMSELVES UP TO CONNECTING WITH PEOPLE WHO HAVE SIMILAR CORE VALUES BUT DIFFERENT PROFESSIONS BACKGROUNDS AND INTERESTS !ND WE HAVE A VERY DIVERSE CLIENTELE

SO THERE S ALWAYS A WIDE VARIETY OF INTERESTING PEOPLE TO MEET What’s the biggest reason people use a dating service like yours? )T S DElNITELY THE TIME FACTOR .OT IN THE SENSE THAT OUR CLIENTS DON T HAVE TIME TO MEET PEOPLE 4HEY DO )T S JUST THAT THE LAST THING THEY WANT TO DO IS WASTE VALUABLE PERSONAL TIME MAKING A CONNECTION WITH SOMEONE WHO ISN T EXACTLY WHAT HE OR SHE MADE THEMSELVES OUT TO BE 7E TAKE THAT FRUSTRATION AWAY AND MAKE IT EASY TO MEET PEOPLE WELL WORTH SPENDING TIME WITH Meet your match today.

Visit ItsJustLunch.com or call 1.800.335.8624.

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AUDIO PROGRAMMING

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2009

107

XM RADIO AND UNITED offer a sampling of XM’s exclusive music channels for your inflight enjoyment. Find your aircraft model on the grid below and review the selections on the channel listing.

Everything worth listening to is now on XM.

CH.

777

0

MOVIE

MOVIE

MOVIE

MOVIE

English

English

English

English

A319 & A320

2 3 4 5 6

Top 20 Hits

Modern Adult Hits

Modern Adult Hits

Classical Pops

Classical Pops

737 Reserved for Future Programming

Top 20 Hits

Top 20 Hits

Modern Adult Hits

Modern Adult Hits

Modern Adult Hits

Classical Pops

Classical Pops

Classical Pops

Classic Rock

Classic Rock

Classic Rock

Traditional Jazz

Traditional Jazz

Traditional Jazz

‘70s Hits

‘70s Hits

‘70s Hits

‘80s Hits

‘80s Hits

‘80s Hits

Reserved for Future Programming Traditional Jazz Reserved for Future Programming

8 ‘80s Hits

From the Flight Deck

‘80s Hits

From the Flight Deck

From the Flight Deck

From the Flight Deck

Children’s Programming

From the Flight Deck

Children’s Programming

MOVIE

10

12

Dubbed

Reserved for Future Programming Classic Rock

‘70s Hits

11

757 & 767

MOVIE Top 20 Hits

7

9

747

English Adult Contemporary Hits

Adult Contemporary Hits

Adult Contemporary Hits

Smooth Jazz

Smooth Jazz

Smooth Jazz

Adult Album Rock

Adult Album Rock

Adult Album Rock

13 Blues

Blues

14 Children’s Programming

Children’s Programming

Blues

Children’s Programming

15 Original XM Programs

Original XM Programs

16 60s Hits

17 Classic Soul

18

New Country Hits

19 New Age

*Live communication between the flight deck and FAA air-traffic control is offered. As you listen, your flight will be identified by its flight number. This feature is unique to United and may not be available on all flights.

Available at your captain’s discretion.

This month, SIRIUS XM’s Exclusive Music Channel presents Grammy®-nominated group THE FRAY. Hear a live performance of early hits plus music off their new self-titled album during the exclusive SIRIUS XM music series “Artist Confidential.” Plus, hear about the making of their latest release, their writing process and what they have in store for 2009.

AUDIO PROGRAMMING CHANNELS & ARTISTS

SMOOTH JAZZ Watercolors plays the best contemporary jazz instrumentals, classic and new, blended with just the right vocals.

It’s contemporary crossover that’s always cool.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Dave Koz, Diana Krall, George Benson, Sade, George Duke

DANCE HITS BPM plays pure mainstream dance music—the biggest remixes and club hits from all over the U.S. with world-renowned DJs. The hottest club in America is BPM! WHO YOU’LL HEAR Cascada, Tiesto, Janet, Ferry Corsten, Seal

BLUES From the delta, Chicago, New Orleans and more, B.B. King’s Bluesville covers more than 80 years of music, from roots to present day, for all blues lovers.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR B.B. King, Buddy Guy, Etta James, Muddy Waters

ADULT ALBUM ROCK Rock ‘n’ roll from artists who have stood the test of time and quality rock from credible new artists who fit right in with your favorites.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR The Rolling Stones, Eric Clapton, U2, The Dave Matthews Band

CLASSIC SOUL Soul Town is a celebration of the Motown, Stax and Atlantic record labels—vintage soul and classic R&B from the 1960s and ’70s.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR James Brown, The Four Tops, Aretha Franklin, The Supremes

NEW COUNTRY HITS The Highway plays the very latest New Country, along with the biggest hits of the past three or four years.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Kenny Chesney, Taylor Swift, Carrie Underwood, Keith Urban, Rascal Flatts, Sugarland, Tim McGraw

NEW AGE Spa is a place of peace in a sometimes crazy world. It’s a beautiful place where you are soothed by dreamy, flowing music.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Enya, Brian Eno, Tangerine Dream, Kevin Braheny, Mark Isham, Suzanne Ciani

NEW ALTERNATIVE The latest alternative rock, best of the ’90s and the next big thing before it becomes so big you can’t stand it.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Weezer, The Raconteurs, The Bravery, Foo Fighters, Death Cab for Cutie, Jimmy Eat World

SIRIUS XM’s Exclusive Music Channel presents interviews and live performances from the original music series “Artist Confidential.”

The Fray take you through their early hits and new songs while Graham Nash talks about Crosby, Stills and Nash and performs some classics. For more information on SIRIUS XM’s “Artist Confidential,” go to sirius.com or xmradio.com.

MODERN ADULT HITS It’s the ’90s and now! Hear today’s pop hits from artists like Matchbox 20, Alanis Morissette, Maroon 5, Kelly Clarkson and the Dave Matthews Band. Feel the Pulse of adult pop!

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Daughtry, Alanis Morissette, Colbie Caillat, Maroon 5

CLASSICAL POPS Listen to classical music’s greatest hits and famous movie music, performed by renowned orchestras and soloists, on SIRIUS XM Pops.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Boston Pops, Cincinnati Pops, Andrea Bocelli, James Galway, Joshua Bell, John Philip Sousa

CLASSIC ROCK Hold your lighters in the air. It’s all classic rock of the ’60s and ’70s, when music came on LPs. Drop the needle on Classic Vinyl.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Creedence Clearwater Revival, The Beatles, Pink Floyd, Lynyrd Skynyrd, Bad Company

TRADITIONAL JAZZ Swinging jazz from the 1920s to now, featuring the giants of jazz while presenting a platform for the next generation.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Miles Davis, John Coltrane, Duke Ellington, Dizzy Gillespie, Stan Getz, Count Basie, Art Blakey, Wynton Marsalis

’70S HITS ’70s on 7 takes you back to the days of bell bottoms and pet rocks, when the music was wider than ever—from singer-songwriters and classic rock to R&B and disco.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Elton John, Donna Summer, The Eagles, Chicago, Fleetwood Mac

’80S HITS “Totally awesome” ’80s on 8 sounds like one of the great Top 40 stations of the time, with rock, rhythm and pop—plus hair bands and the original MTV VJs. WHO YOU’LL HEAR Michael Jackson, Duran Duran, Cyndi Lauper, Prince, George Michael

CHILDREN’S PROGRAMMING Kids Place Live features award-winning original content blended with a music mix of the most popular kids’ movie and TV soundtracks, plus Children’s Programming’s recording artists.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR The Wiggles, Tom Chapin, Dan Zanes, They Might Be Giants

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2009

109

XM RADIO AND UNITED offer a sampling of XM’s exclusive music channels for your inflight enjoyment. Find your aircraft model on the grid below and review the selections on the channel listing.

Everything worth listening to is now on XM.

02 TOP 20 HITS 20 on 20 is the world’s first fully interactive hit music experience, playing just the songs you vote for.

Cast your vote anytime at 20on20.xmradio.com; then plug in and hear what’s hot.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Justin Timberlake, Fergie, Daughtry, Kanye West

16

10 ’60S HITS The times they were a-changin’, and so was the music. ’60s on 6 revisits surfin’ tunes, “girl groups,” the British invasion, Woodstock. Featuring legendary DJ Cousin Brucie.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR The Beatles, Beach Boys, Bob Dylan

ADULT CONTEMPORARY HITS The Blend is the musical soundtrack of your life—a great mix of lite pop hits from the ’70s through today, nothing too sleepy and never any rap or rock.

WHO YOU’LL HEAR Rod Stewart, Billy Joel, Madonna, Eric Clapton, John Mellencamp

ROUTE MAPS NORTH AMERICAN CITIES United Route United Express Route Code Share route serviced by a United Partner

Time zone boundry UNITED HUB

• Cities served by United, United Express and Code Share partners Cities served by Star Alliance members

Alaska Time Zone 3:00

Route lines do not reflect actual flight path

Vancouver Victoria

BRITISH COLUMBIA

Edmonton S A S K AT C H E WA N

Mountain Time Zone 5:00

Seattle

ALASKA

MANITOBA

A L B E R TA

Pacific Time Zone 4:00

Saskatoon

Central Time Zone 6:00

Calgary

Moses Lake WA S H I N G T O N

Anchorage

Spokane

Regina

Kalispell

Winnipeg Portland

Gulf Of Alaska

Pasco

Eugene

Missoula

Glasgow

Williston Wolf Point Sidney M O N TA NA Lewistown MINNE SOT NORTH DA KO TA I DA H O Bozeman Bismarck Miles City Dickinson Billings Fargo Boise Cody/ Yellowstone Sheridan Idaho Falls SOUTH Gillette Worland DA KO TA Rapid City Jackson Hole Minnea Pierre Huron Great Falls

Helena

North Bend

Redmond OREGON

Medford Crescent City

Klamath Falls Eureka Redding

PACIFIC OCEAN

U N I T E D S TAT E S

Chico

Riverton

N E VA DA

Sacramento

Rock Springs

Reno/Tahoe

SAN FRANCISCO

Oakland Modesto San Jose Merced Fresno Visalia Monterey

Vernal

Hayden/ Steamboat Springs COLORADO Grand Junction Vail/Eagle DENVER Aspen Moab

U TA H

Inyokern Bakersfield

Santa Maria Santa Barbara Oxnard

Burbank LOS ANGELES Ontario Orange County Carlsbad

St. George Las Vegas

Palm Springs

Page/ Lake Powell

Montrose Cortez Farmington

Durango

I OWA

Alliance NEBRASKA

Omaha

North Platte Kearney

Colorado Springs Hays

Pueblo

Alamosa

Des Moines

Lincoln

McCook

Manhattan

Salina KANSAS

Garden City

A R I Z O NA

Kansas City

Great Bend Dodge City Wichita Liberal

Prescott Show Low

San Diego Imperial

Gunnison/ Crested Butte

Sioux Falls

Chadron

Scottsbluff Laramie Cheyenne

Salt Lake City

CA L I F O R N I A

San Luis Obispo

Casper W YO M I N G

Phoenix/Scottsdale

Northwe Arkansa

Oklahoma City

Yuma Tucson

OKLAHOMA

NEW MEXICO

El Paso

Dallas/ Fort Worth TEXAS

Austin San Antonio

Honolulu

Los Cabos Kapalua

Pacific Ocean

0 0

50 50

100

100 150

Kahului

MEXICO

Maui

Kona

Hilo Puerto Vallarta

150 Miles 200 Kilometers

Springfi

Tulsa

Albuquerque

Mexico City

Houston

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2009

Newfoundland Time Zone 8:30 NEWFOUNDLAND & LABRADOR

Gulf Of St. Lawrence

C A N A DA

Eastern Time Zone 7:00

P R I N C E E DWARD ISLAND NEW B RU N SW I C K

O N TA R I O

Atlantic Time Zone 8:00

TA

polis

MAINE

Ottawa WISCONSIN Wausau

Burlington

Green Bay

Traverse City M I C H I GA N

Halifax

V T. N.H.

N E W YO R K

Toronto

N OVA SCOTIA

Portland Manchester

Syracuse Ithaca/ Albany Boston Rochester Elmira/ Corning Hartford/M A S S .

Corning Buffalo/ Springfield R.I. Niagara Falls Binghamton Providence Lansing Madison C O N N. Wilkes Barre/ Detroit Erie White Plains Long Island/Islip Scranton South Bend/Elkhart/ P E N N SY LVA N I A Newark New York (La Guardia) Cedar Rapids/ Mishawaka Cleveland (J.F. Kennedy) State Allentown Iowa City N.J. Akron/Canton College O H I O Philadelphia Ft. Wayne Burlington Moline Peoria Pittsburgh Harrisburg Baltimore Columbus Johnstown Altoona ILLINOIS I N D I A NA DEL. Morgantown MARYLAND Dayton Clarksburg WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES) Springfield Indianapolis Parkersburg (Reagan National) Cincinnati WV Shenandoah Valley St. Louis Charlottesville Charleston Louisville Richmond Beckley Lexington Lynchburg Norfolk/Virginia Beach Waynesville KENTUCKY Roanoke V I R G I N I A Newport News/Williamsburg ield Tri-Cities Regional Greensboro/High Point/Winston-Salem MISSOURI Raleigh/Durham NORTH Knoxville CA R O L I NA Nashville New Bern est Greenville TENNESSEE Charlotte as Asheville Fayetteville/Ft. Bragg ARKANSAS Greenville/Spartanburg Jacksonville Memphis Little Wilmington Rock Columbia Huntsville/ Decatur Myrtle Beach SOUTH Atlanta CA R O L I NA Charleston Augusta Birmingham Appleton/ Fox Cities

Midland/ Saginaw

Grand Milwaukee Rapids

Hilton Head Island A L A BA M A

GEORGIA

Savannah

MISSISSIPPI

Pensacola

LOUISIANA

Tallahassee

ATLANTIC OCEAN

Jacksonville Gainesville

New Orleans

F L O R I DA Orlando

Tampa/St. Petersburg Sarasota/Bradenton

West Palm Beach

Ft. Myers

Ft. Lauderdale/Hollywood Miami

Gulf Of Mexico

BAHAMAS

Key West Providenciales

CUBA

HAITI

Cozumel 100

0 0

100

200

200 300

300 400

500

400 Miles 600 Kilometers

Montego Bay

JAM.

Caribbean Sea

VIRGIN ISLANDS ( U. S . ) St. Maarten St. Thomas Antigua

San Juan Punta Cana St. Kitts P U E R T O St. Croix RICO

DOM. REP.

Santo Domingo St. Lucia

111

ROUTE MAPS INTERNATIONAL CITIES

8:00 pm

7:00 pm

Time zone boundry UNITED HUB

• Cities served by United, United Express and Code Share partners Cities served by Star Alliance members

United Route United Express Route Code Share route serviced by a United Partner

9:00 pm 10:00 pm

Route lines do not reflect actual flight path

12:00 MON.

11:00 pm

12:00 SUN.

1:00 am

2:00 am

ARCTIC OCEAN

3:00 am

5:00 am

4:00 am

MIDNIGHT ALASKA (U.S.)

RUSSIA

8:00 pm

CA

2:00 6:00 pm

Seattle MONGOLIA

8:00 pm CHINA

Shenyang NORTH Fukuoka

Beijing Baotou

Delhi

5:30

San Francisco

KOREA Sendai SOUTH Komatsu Qingdao Seoul KOREA Tokyo Shanghai Pusan Nagoya Osaka Nanjing Hiroshima Chengdu Wuhan 6:00 Chongqing Hangzhou BHUTAN Xiamen Fuzhou BANGLADESH Taipei Okinawa Guangzhou TAIWAN BURMA Hanoi Kolkata LAOS Shenzhen Hong Kong THAILAND

5:30 Bangkok

VIETNAM

CAMBODIA

Phuket

Dallas MEXICO

PHILIPPINES

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) MALAYSIA

Honolulu

Kota Kinabalu

Guatem San

E

M

BRUNEI

Kuala Lumpur Singapore I

Denver

Los Angeles

9:00 pm

South China Sea

U.S.A.

Sapporo JAPAN

International Date Line

AKHSTAN

Portland

Harbin

N

D

O

N

E

S

I

PACIFIC OCEAN

A PAPUA NEW GUINEA

INDIAN OCEAN

Coral Sea

Apia WESTERN SAMOA

Cairns

FIJI

Nadi

RAROTONGA

Rarotonga Cook

FRENCH POLYNESIA

NEW CALEDONIA

AUSTRALIA

1:00

Brisbane 9:30 pm

Perth

Gold Coast Sydney

Adelaide

Canberra

Tasman Sea

Melbourne

Auckland NEW ZEALAND

Wellington Christchurch Queenstown

Dunedin

World time zones shown in Standard Time.

6:00 pm

7:00 pm

8:00 pm

9:00 pm

10:00 pm

11:00 pm

12:00 MIDNIGHT

MON. SUN.

rnational Date Line

5:00 pm

1:00 am

2:00 am

3:00 am

4:00 am

5:00 am

113

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2009

6:00 am

7:00 am

8:00 am

9:00 am

11:00 am

10:00 am

12:00 pm

1:00 pm

3:00 pm

2:00 pm

ARCTIC OCEAN GREENLAND

SWEDEN

ICELAND

FINLAND

2:00 pm

Hudson Bay

NORWAY UNITED KINGDOM

10:00 am

ANADA

10:00

FRANCE

Boston

Detroit

Washington, DC

Gulf of Mexico

EL SALVADOR

CANARY ISLANDS

Med iterra n e a n S ea

TUNISIA

Black Sea

Tbilisi

GEORGIA TURKEY

ARMENIA AZER.

Baku

5:00

THE BAHAMAS

CUBA HAITI JAM. DOM. REP.

PUERTO RICO

MAURITANIA

PANAMA

Dakar

GAMBIA

SENEGAL

GUINEA BISSAU

SURINAME VENEZUELA GUYANA COLOMBIA FRENCH GUIANA

GUINEA

SIERRA LEONE

LIBERIA

ATLANTIC OCEAN

ECUADOR

Manaus

AFGHAN.Islamabad Peshawar

4:30

IRAN

Amman

5:00

3:30 Lahore Kuwait PAKISTAN Delhi QATAR NEPAL Bahrain LIBYA EGYPT Dubai Doha Karachi 2:00 pm INDIA Abu Dhabi 5:30 Muscat SAUDI ARABIA U. A. E. OMAN Mumbai MALI NIGER 4:00 pm Hyderabad ERITREA CHAD YEMEN 1:00 pm Arabian Sea SUDAN Asmara Bangalore BURKINA FASO DJIBOUTI Cochin BENIN NIGERIA Trivandrum TOGO Addis Ababa Abuja GHANA CENTRAL AFRICAN ETHIOPIA Chennai (Madras) Lagos REPUBLIC Accra Colombo CAMEROON SOMALIA EQUATORIAL GUINEA

SAO TOME & PRINCIPE

JORDAN

6:00

Cuzco

Brasilia

10:00 am

BOLIVIA

Belo Horizonte

Porto Alegre

ANGOLA

11:00 am

12:00 NOON

1:00 pm NAMIBIA

SEYCHELLES

INDIAN OCEAN

COMOROS ZAMBIA

MALAWI

3:00 pm

4:00 pm

SWAZILAND

Durban LESOTHO

East London Port Elizabeth

Atlantic Ocean

Oslo

Shannon

Helsinki

LATVIA

Aberdeen

Riga

DENMARK

Edinburgh

Copenhagen

LITHUANIA RUSSIA

GERMANY

London

ENGLAND

RUSSIA

ESTONIA

Hamburg Bremen Dublin WALES Manchester Berlin NETH. Hannover Amsterdam Birmingham

Cork

9:00 am

FINLAND

SWEDEN

Stockholm

SCOTLAND

Glasgow

NORWAY

Bergen

Stavanger

NORTHERN IRELAND UNITED Belfast KINGDOM IRELAND

8:00 am

6:00 pm

MADAGASCAR

SOUTH AFRICA

Cape Town Buenos Aires

7:00 am

5:00 pm

MOZAMBIQUE ZIMBABWE

BOTSWANA

URUGUAY

Santiago

MALDIVES

TANZANIA

Johannesburg

Curitiba

Kolkata

BURUNDI

Rio de Janeiro

PARAGUA

Y Iguassu Falls

BHUTAN BANGLADESH

SRI LANKA

KENYA

RWANDA

2:00 pm

Salvador

ARGENTINA

UGANDA

DEM. REP. CONGO

CONGO

Recife

Lima

CHILE

GABON

Fortaleza

BRAZIL

PERU

6:00 am

KYRGYZSTAN TAJIKISTAN

Ashkabad

CYPRUS SYRIA LEBANON ISRAEL Tel AvivIRAQ

Alexandria Cairo

Alma-Ata

UZBEKISTAN

TURKMENISTAN

ALGERIA

San Pedro Sula Tegucigalpa NIC. Aruba COSTA RICA

Managua Liberia

Madrid

MOROCCO

WESTERN SAHARA

GUATEMALA

mala City n Salvador

ROMANIA BOS.HER. SERB .

MONT. KOS. BULGARIA MAC. GREECE ALB.

Rome

12:00

Miami Belize City

Geneva

PORTUGAL

Charlotte Atlanta Houston Orlando

6:00 pm KAZAKHSTAN

Sea

Porto Lisbon

4:00

MOLDOVA

SWITZ.

SPAIN

5:00 pm

Moscow

an spi Ca

Chicago

New York Newark 9:00 am

4:00

LAT.

Copenhagen ManchesterBrussels LITH. Dublin BELARUS Amsterdam POLAND Warsaw GERMANY Shannon London Frankfurt Munich UKRAINE Paris Vienna AUSTRIA

9:30

Philadelphia

RUSSIA

Stockholm

BELGIUM

Brussels Cologne

POLAND

Vilnius BELARUS

Warsaw

Dresden

Prague Kiev Katowice Frankfurt CZECH UKRAINE Nuremberg REPUBLIC SLOVAKIA Munich Paris Salzburg Basel Linz Vienna FRANCE MOLDOVA AUSTRIA Graz Budapest HUNGARY SWITZ. Innsbruck Klagenfurt Lyon Geneva VeronaSLOVENIA Venice CROATIA Bucharest Milan TriesteBOS. ROMANIA Turin Bologna HERZ. Belgrade Genoa Florence Sarajevo SERBIA BULGARIA Marseille Nice Pisa Ancona MONT. KOS. Sofia Rome Skopje ALBANIA LUX.

10:00 am

Stuttgart

Porto PORTUGAL

SOUTHERN OCEAN

SPAIN

Naples ITALY

MAC.

GREECE

MALTA Luga

ANTARCTICA

Istanbul Ankara TURKEY

Lisbon

Mediterranean Sea

TERMINAL DIAGRAMS DOMESTIC Whether your next flight is on United or one of the Star Alliance partners around the world, use the terminal diagrams on pages 104–108 to plan your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters, United Red Carpet Clubs and interterminal transportation.

MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT.

CONTACT INFORMATION

Reservations united.com 800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

Automated Flight Information

Meetings Plus

Customer Relations united.com/customerrelations Email: customerrelations@ united.com

800-MEET-UAL (800-633-8825)

Duty Free World 6095 NW 167th St. Suite D-4 Miami, FL 33015 USA

800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

Mileage Plus 24-Hour Account Information & Award Travel united.com/mileageplus 800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

Red Carpet Club™ united.com/redcarpetclub 866-UA-CLUBS (toll-free) 520-881-0500 (outside the U.S.)

United Vacations unitedvacations.com 800-32-TOURS (800-328-6877)

Hearing Impaired (TDD) Charter an Airplane united.com/charter

800-323-0170

Mileage Plus Visa Customer Service united.com/chase 800-537-7783

Language Assistance (Asian) Small Package Same Day Shipping Small Package Dispatch (SPD)— Airport-to-airport service:

800-426-5560

Reservaciones en Español Baggage Services united.com/baggage 800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

Refunds united.com/refunds 800-UNITED-1 (800-864-8331)

800-426-5561

1. Rebook on another flight 2. Obtain a boarding pass 3. Standby for the next flight to their destination

800-722-5243

United Cargo unitedcargo.com

Employment Opportunities united.com/jobs

800-UA-CARGO (800-822-2746)

888-UAL-JOBS (888-825-5627)

United Services unitedsvcs.com

CHICAGO / O’HARE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

United Gate Area United Premier Check-in United Check-in United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite International Arrivals Suite (except from Canada) United Red Carpet Club Lufthansa Check-in SAS Check-in Air Canada Gate Area Air Canada Check-in ANA Check-in bmi Check-in US Airways Gate Area US Airways Check-in Asiana Check-in Underground Corridors, Moving Sidewalks Elevated Airport Transit Systems (ATS) ★ United Easy Check-in Medical Center ★ Airport Play Area—Kids on the Fly

CONCOURSE F CONCOURSE G

CONCOURSE H

F14 F11 ★ F12 F10 F9 F8 F7 F6 F5 F4 F3 ★

CONCOURSE E E10

CONCOURSE C

C2 C4 C1 C6 C3 C8 C5 C10 C7 C12 E3 C9 C16 E2A C11 E2 CONCOURSE B E1A TERMINAL F2 C15 C18 F1 E1 TWO B3 C17 ★ C18A B2 B4 ★ B5 B1 C20 B6 C19 C22 Roadway B7 C24 C21 C26 ★ B8 C23 BUS/SHUTTLE C28 CENTER C25 TERMINAL ONE C30 C27 C32 B9 C29 C31 B10 Parking Garage B11

E

HOTEL

MIN

AL

TH

RE

CONCOURSE K

CONCOURSE L International Terminal Five

TER

ORD

EasyCheck-in kiosks are located on the concourse to assist customers who have experienced a misconnection or canceled flight. Customers who have e-tickets and are traveling domestically may use the kiosk to:

800-668-6182

B12 B14 B15 B16 B17 B18 B19 B20 B21 B22

LOT A

★

CONC OURSE M Roadw

ay HOTEL

To Remote Parking

Hotel Courtesy Shuttle, Pace Bus, Regional Buses, Off-Site Rent-a-Car, Off-Site Parking Shuttle. Follow the overhead signs in Baggage Claim.

➡

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2009

115

HAZARDOUS MATERIALS NOTICE & IMPORT RESTRICTIONS Hazardous Materials The following items are considered hazardous materials.

Do not pack in checked or carryon luggage.

Flammable Liquids or Solids Fuel, paints, solvents, lighter fluid, matches Weapons: Loaded firearms, ammunition, gunpowder, Mace, tear gas, pepper spray

IAD

Household Items Drain cleaners and solvents Compressed Gases Spray can, butane fuel, oxygen bottles Fireworks Firecrackers, sparklers or explosives Other Hazardous Materials Dry ice, gasoline-powered tools, camping equipment with fuel, wet cell batteries, oxidizers, corrosives, radioactive materials, poisons, infectious substances

Note There are special exceptions for small quantities of up to 70 oz.

(2 kg or 2 liters) of medicinal and toilet articles carried in your luggage. For further information, check with any airline representative.

WASHINGTON / DULLES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

International Arrivals Facility for Connecting Passengers (Lower Level) CONCOURSE C C C2 C4 C6 C8 C12 C14 C16 C18 C20 C22 C24 C

United Gate Area United Premier Check-in United Check-in International Arrivals Suite (except from Canada) C1 United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge Lufthansa Gate Area Lufthansa Check-in Air Canada Gate Area Air Canada Check-in ANA Check-in ANA Fuji Lounge/Gate Area South African Airways Austrian Airlines Check-in US Airways Gates Austrian Airlines Gate Area ★ United Easy Check-in SAS Gate Area US Airways Check-in BWIA Gate

LAX

D2

H

C3 C C7 C9 C A4 A2 A6

C17 C19 C23

D4

D1

C27

CONCOURSE D D8 D14 D16

D6

D18 D20 D30

★

D3

H

CONCOURSE B

CONCOURSE A A1

A3

TERMINAL Z

A5

TERMINAL T GATES GATES T9 -T14 (LOWER LEVEL) International Arrivals Building

MAIN TERMINAL

Main Terminal Upper Level

Parking

Transportation to International Arrivals Building for Washington Passengers Only

EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

LOS ANGELES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

United Gate Area United Premier Check-in United Check-in United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge Lufthansa Check-in Thai Airways Check-in Air Canada Check-in Air New Zealand Check-in ANA Check-in Inter-Terminal Shuttle Bus Stop (Arrival Level) Singapore Check-in US Airways Club US Airways Check-in US Airways Gates Asiana Check-in ★ United Easy Check-in

Import Restrictions Please note new controls on the import of meat, fish, plants and their products into the United Kingdom and European Union.

Check the advisory notices displayed in the baggage hall for a detailed explanation of these restrictions. If you possess any of these items, please declare them to customs in the red channel to avoid legal consequences.

TERMINAL 1 12 TERMINAL 3

8

TERMINAL 2

US Airways Ticket Counter (Upper Level)

US Airways Club 4B

TOM BRADLEY INTERNATIONAL TERMINAL

Roadway

Mezzanine 71A Level 71B 67A 67B 69A

TERMINAL 4

TERMINAL 5

64 66 68A

68B 69B TERMINAL 6

73 75A 75B

77

★

70A 70B 72 74 76

TERMINAL 7

80 81 ★ 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 TERMINAL 8

TERMINAL DIAGRAMS US AIRWAYS HUBS Whether your next flight is on United or one of the Star Alliance partners around the world, use the terminal diagrams on pages 104–108 to plan your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters, United Red Carpet Clubs and interterminal transportation.

MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT.

DEN

DENVER INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

United Gate Area United Premier Check-in United Check-in International Arrival Processing Air Canada Gate Area Air Canada Check-in US Airways Gate Area US Airways Check-in Lufthansa Check-in Lufthansa Gate Area Underground Train Medical Center (level six) ★ United EasyCheck-in

EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

29 28 30 CONCOURSE C 57 59 15

17 19 21 23 25

16

18 20 22 24

27 29 31 33

35

39

36

38 40 42 44

★

★ 26

28 30 32

34

49

51

53 55 57

50

52

54 56 58 60

63 67 69 71 73 75 77 79

61

★ 46 48

CONCOURSE B

81 83 85 87 89 91 93 95 94 80 82 84 86 88 90 92

33 35 CONCOURSE A

Terminal East

SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

78B TERMINAL 3 CONCOURSE F 88

86

84 82

79

80

90

78A 77B 77A 76B 76A

International Terminal Secure Connector

61

71

89 87A 87 85 83 81 72 73 74 75

68 70 69

7

CONCOURSE G (Gates G91-G1 02)

CONCOURSE B B26

TERMINAL 1

B27 B28 B30 B29

CONCOURSE A (Gates 1-12)

HONOLULU INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

United Gate Area United Check-in United Red Carpet Club (Third Level) Air New Zealand (Courtyard, Lower Level) ANA (Courtyard, Lower Level) Air Canada Gate Area US Airways Check-in Pedestrian Corridor Inter-Terminal Shuttle Bus Stop Medical Center (Courtyard, Lower Level)

45 47

41 43

United Arrivals and Departures (Domestic) United Premier Check-in United Domestic Check-in United International Check-in & Departure Gates United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge United Arrivals Suite (lower level) Singapore Check-in Lufthansa Check-in Air China Check-in US Airways Gate Area US Airways Check-in Asiana Airlines Air New Zealand Medical Center Air Canada Gate Area ★ United EasyCheck-in Air Canada Check-in ℞ Harmony Pharmacy & Health Center is in the Terminal 3, Concourse F hub

HNL

41

★

Terminal West

SFO

43

37

EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

DIAMOND HEAD CONCOURSE GATES 6-11 8 7 6 9

★

DIAMOND HEAD

CENTRAL CONCOURSE GATES 14-23 EWA CONCOURSE GATES 26-34

10 11 GATES 12-13

GATES 24-25 GATES 49-54 Roadway

Parking Garage

INTERISLAND TERMINAL GATES 55-66

117

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2009

LONDON / HEATHROW INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

United Gate Area United Check-in United Premier Check-in Arrivals Lounge Lufthansa Check-in SAS Check-in bmi Check-in Star Alliance Departure Lounge Flight Connections

86 84

90 88

38 36

40 42

34 32 35

30

82

80

BUS TRANSFER To/From Terminals 3, 4 & 5

78

76

24 28

31

74 1

26

3

9

7

5

TERMINAL 1 8 6

11

29 22

TERMINAL 5

LHR

21

27 20

19

17

21

19

25

16

23

29

18

37

39

11 16

13

TERMINAL 3

36

3

9

5 7

2

46

48

43 50

52

54

56

6 8 10

13

7 5 3 1

40 42

38

41

9

4 11

BUS TRANSFER To/From Terminals 1, 2, 3 & 5

15

12

TERMINAL 2 (Closing Early 2009)

14

TERMINAL 4

FRANKFURT INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

TERMINAL 1

B332-B340 A5 1A6 5)

Escalator

B300-B303

A1 -A 42 )

3

B1, B2

C5

B11-B16

C8 B3-B9

Pedestrian Transfer Tunnel

A, LE VE L

2

(G at es

A, LE VE L

B10

C

B20

C6

B41 PIER B

PI ER

PI ER

C4

ER

(G at es

C1-C3

PI

United Gate Area United Check-in United Arrivals Suite United Red Carpet Club United First International Lounge Lufthansa Check-in Lufthansa Senator Club Lufthansa Business Class Lounge Air Canada Check-in Train Station US Airways Gates US Airways Check-in Medical Center

C7-C9

B43

B22 B30-B35

âž”

B44

B24

Train to Terminal 2

B42

B23

B45

B25 B48

B28

B46

B26

B47

B27

NRT

27

18 17

FRA

23

25

TOKYO / NARITA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 43

42

41

37

35

33

31

Gates 21-25 SATELLITE 2

44 45 46

47 SATELLITE 4

38

Gates 31-47

32

SATELLITE 3 l ne un rT sfe an Tr ian str de Pe

United Gate Area United and Star Alliance Premier Check-in United and Star Alliance Check-in Air New Zealand (Terminal 2) United Red Carpet Club (Third Floor) United First International Lounge (Fourth Floor) Medical Center ANA Lounge

North Wing

South Wing

Gates 11-

TERMINAL 1 52 51

Gates 51-58

SATELLITE 1 55 56

SATELLITE

57 58

TERMINAL DIAGRAMS US AIRWAYS HUBS Whether your next flight is on United or one of the Star Alliance partners around the world, use the terminal diagrams on pages 104–108 to plan your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters, United Red Carpet Clubs and interterminal transportation.

MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT.

CLT

CHARLOTTE DOUGLAS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

United Gate Area United Check-in US Airways Gate Area US Airways Express Gate Area US Airways Check-in US Airways Club US Airways Club and Business Center Special Services Counter ★ United EasyCheck-in

LAS

EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

CONCOURSE C

CONCOURSE B Gates 1-16

Gates 2-19

CONCOURSE A 2 4

CONCOURSE D CONCOURSE E

★

Food Court

Gates 1-9

Gates 10-19

Gates 1-13

Gates 20-26

LAS VEGAS / MCCARRAN INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

United Gate Area United Check-in US Airways Gate Area US Airways Check-in US Airways Club Special Services Counter

Gates B19-B25

Gates D31-D43

Gates B9-B17

CONCOURSE B

Gates D1-D14

CONCOURSE D

B6 B2 CONCOURSE A B1 A3 A5 A8

Gates D50-D58

Gates A10-A15

A7

Gates D17-D26 Gates A17-A23

PHL

PHILADELPHIA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

Gates 24-39

United Gate Area United Check-in United Red Carpet Club US Airways Gate Area US Airways Express Gate Area US Airways Check-in US Airways International Check-in US Airways Club Special Services Counters US Airways Express Check-in US Airways Club and Envoy Lounge ★ United EasyCheck-in

PHX

CONCOURSE F

CONCOURSE E

Gates 18-26

CONCOURSE A WEST

1

1

17 16 15 14

Gates 1-16

Transatlantic Gates (All Carriers)

CONCOURSE A EAST

PHOENIX SKY HARBOR INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

United Gate Area United Check-in United Red Carpet Club US Airways Gate Area US Airways Club and Business Center Special Services Counters ★ United EasyCheck-in

Gates 1-23

Continuous Shuttle Bus Pickup and Drop-off Between Gates F10 and C16

3

Gates 16-31

CONCOURSE B

5 CONCOURSE D 7 9 11 13

★

CONCOURSE C

EasyCheck-in is available at this airport.

TERMINAL 2 TERMINAL 4

CONCOURSE A

Gates

★ 7

1 3 5

Gates A17-A30

To transfer between terminals, catch the interterminal bus curbside.

CONCOURSE B

Gates A1-A14

INTERNATIONAL CONCOURSE B

Gates B1-B14

Gates B15-B28

119

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2009

ENJOY A WORLD OF STAR ALLIANCE CONNECTIONS AND PRIVILEGES. With more than 17,000 daily flights, United and the other 23 Star Alliance carriers can take you to 916 destinations in 160 countries around the world. The qualifying flights you take on Star Alliance carriers count toward your elite status in Mileage Plus.

STAR ALLIANCE PARTNERS

AFRICA

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CARIBBEAN

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LATIN AMERICA

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MIDDLE EAST

UNITED STATES

Air Canada Air China Air New Zealand ANA Asiana AIrlines Austrian bmi EgyptAir LOT Polish Air Lufthansa Scandinavian Airlines Shanghai Airways Singapore Airlines South African Airways Spanair Swiss International Air Lines TAP Portugal THAI Turkish Airlines United US Airways Adria Airways Blue 1

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Mileage Plus Members can earn miles and redeem award travel on all Star Alliance partners.

FREQUENT FLIER BENEFITS

REGIONAL ALLIANCES

AFRICA

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CANADA

CARIBBEAN

EUROPE

Aer Lingus Air Dolomiti Continental Connection

Operated by Gulfstream

Emirates Great Lakes Hawaiian Airlines Island Air Jet Airways Qatar Airways TACA Group TAM Virgin Blue Frequent flier benefits not offered on all flights. Contact United Reservations for details.

LATIN AMERICA

MEXICO

MIDDLE EAST

UNITED STATES

EARN

REDEEM

CUSTOMS & IMMIGRATION ENTRY REGULATIONS

I-94 ARRIVAL / DEPARTURE RECORD

CUSTOMS DECLARATION

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

11.

12.

13.

ENGLISH All passengers (or one per family) are required to complete the Customs Declaration forms prior to arrival in the U.S. The forms will be distributed inflight and should include all personal data in English and in capital letters. Please ensure you sign your name.

SPANISH/ESPAÑOL Todos los pasajeros (o uno por cada familia) tienen que llenar los formularios de Declaración de Aduanas antes de llegar a los EE.UU. Los formularios se distribuirán durante el veulo y deben incluir todos sus datos personales en inglés y con letras mayúsculas. No olvide firmar en el reverso del formulario.

1. Apellido, Nombre, Segundo nombre 2. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) 3. Cuántos familiares viajan con usted

14.

15.

(a) Dirección en los EE.UU. (nombre del hotel/lugar) (b) Ciudad, (c) Estado Pasaporte expedido en (páis) Número del pasaporte País de residencia Países que visitó durante este viaje antes de su llegada a los EE.UU. Línea aérea/número de vuelo o nombre del barco El propósito principal de este viaje es de negocios: Sí / No Traigo (Traemos) (a) frutas, plantas, alimentos, insectos: Sí / No (b) carnes, animales, productos de animales o silvestres: Sí / No (c) agentes de enfermedades, cultivos celulares, caracoles:Sí / No (d) tierra o he (hemos) estado en finca/ granja/pastizales: Sí / No He (Hemos) estado en cercanías de ganado (tocando o manipulándolo): Sí / No Llevo (Llevamos) divisas o instrumentos monetarios por valor superior a $10,000 o su equivalente en moneda extranjera (Véase la definición de instrumentos monetarios al dorso): Sí / No Tengo (Tenemos) mercancías comerciales (artículos para la venta, muestras para solicitar pedidos o bienes que no constituyen efectos personales): Sí / No Residentes—el valor total de todos los bienes, incluidas las mercancías comerciales que he (hemos) comprado en el extranjero, (incluyendo regalos para otras personas, pero sin incluir los artículos enviados por correo a los EE.UU.) y que estoy (estamos) introduciendo en los EE.UU. es de: $___ Visitantes—el valor total de todos los artículos que permanecerán en los EE.UU., incluidas las mercancías comerciales, es de: $___

ENGLISH Prior to arrival in the U.S., all foreign nationals (except Canadian citizens and U.S. permanent residents or nationals of countries entitled to the Visa Waiver Program—see I-94W on next page) are required to complete an I-94 form. One form is required for each family member.

Customers should complete all personal and travel-related information included on the front side of the form. Please do not write on the back side of the form. All information should be written in capital letters and in English. You are required to keep this form until your departure from the U.S.

SPANISH / ESPAÑOL Antes de su llegada a los Estados Unidos, todos los ciudadanos extranjeros (excepto los ciudadanos de Canadá y los residentes permanentes en los Estados Unidos o ciudadanos de los países que tienen el Programa “Visa Waiver”—Ver formulario I-94W en hoja adjunta) tienen que llenar un formulario I-94. Hay que rellenar un formulario por cada miembro de la familia.

Los pasajeros llenarán toda la información personal y relativa al viaje que se incluye en el anverso del formulario. Le rogamos que no escriba en el reverso del formulario. Toda la información debe estar escrita con letras mayúsculas y en inglés. Le rogamos que guarde este formulario hasta que salga de los Estados Unidos.

1. Apellido 2. Nombre 3. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) 4. País de ciudadanía 5. Sexo (masculino o femenino) 6. Número de pasaporte 7. Aerolínea y número de vuelo 8. País donde reside 9. Ciudad donde tomó el avión 10. Ciudad donde obtuvo el visado 11. Fecha del visado (Diá/Mes/Año) 12. Dirección durante su estancia en los EE.UU. (Número, Calle) 13. Ciudad y Estado 14. Apellido 15. Nombre 16. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) 17. País de ciudadania

STAYING FIT: INFLIGHT FLEXIBILITY Knee Flexion: Lift knee toward chest, decreasing the amount of joint space at back of the knee.

Repeat with other leg.

Dorsiflexion: With heel on floor, point toes upward, decreasing the angle between the foot and front of the leg.

Repeat with other foot.

Eversion: With foot on floor, gently roll the sole of the foot inward. Repeat with other foot.

Knee Extension: Straighten knee, increasing the amount of joint space at the back of the knee to its full range. Repeat with other leg.

Plantar Flexion: Lift the heel and keep toes pointed toward the floor, increasing the angle between the top of the foot and front of the leg. Repeat with other foot.

Inversion: With foot on floor, gently roll the sole of the foot outward. Repeat with other foot.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2009

I-94 NONIMMIGRANT VISA WAIVER / FRONT

I-94 NONIMMIGRANT VISA WAIVER / BACK

SPANISH / ESPAÑOL Antes de su llegada en los Estados Unidos, los ciudadanos extranjeros (excepto ciudadanos Canadienses y residentes permanentes de los Estados Unidos) que no tengan un visado de visita y se acojan al programa “Visa Waiver”, tienen que completar el formulario I-94W. Se requiere un formulario por cado miembro de familia. Los pasajeros deberán rellenar toda información tanto personal como relacionada con viajes en el anverso de la tarjeta. Por favor, asegúrese de contestar todas las preguntas , firmen y pongan la fecha en el lugar indicado en el formulario.

Todos los pasajeros deben proporcionar una dirección en Estados Unidos para entrar al país.

ENGLISH Prior to arrival in the United States, foreign nationals (except Canadian citizens and U.S. permanent residents) who are not in possession of a visitors visa and are entitled to the Visa Waiver Program are required to complete the I-94W form. One form is required for each family member.

Customers should complete all personal and travel-related information included on the front side of the card. Please ensure that you answer all questions and sign and date where indicated on the back side of this form. All customers must provide a U.S. address for entry.

Countries that are participants of the Visa Waiver Program are as follows: Andorra, Australia, Austria, Belgium, Brunei, *Czech Republic, Denmark, *Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, *Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Japan, *Latvia, Liechtenstein, *Lithuania, Luxembourg, *Malta, Monaco, the Netherlands, New Zealand, Norway, Portugal, San Marino, Singapore, *Slovakia, Slovenia, *South Korea, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, the United Kingdom. *Nationals of these countries must present an electronic (e-ppt) passport to be eligible for the U.S. Visa Waiver Program.

Nationals of all Visa Waiver countries must present a machine-readable passport for the U.S. Visa Waiver Program.

Los países que participan del Programa de exención de visas son los siguientes: Alemania. Andorra, Australia, Austria, Bélgica, Brunei, *Corea del Sur, Dinamarca, *Eslovaquia, Eslovenia, Espána, *Estonia, Finlandia, Francia, *Hungría, Irlanda, Islandia, Italia, Japón, *Letonia, Liechtenstein, * Lituania, Luxemburgo, *Malta, Mónaco, Noruega, Nueva Zelandia, Países Bajos, Portugal,*República Checa, San Marino, Singapur, Suecia, Suiza y el Reino Unido. *Los ciudadanos de estos países deben presentar un electrónicos (e-ppt) pasaporte para ser elegible para del Programa de exención de visas de Estados Unidos.

Los ciudadanos de los demás países exentos de visas deben presentar un pasaporte de lectura electrónica en el marco del Programa de exención de visas de Estados Unidos a partir del 26 de octubre de 2004.

1. Apellido 2. Nombre 3. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) 4. Nacionalidad 5. Sexo (varón/hembra) 6. Número de Pasaporte 7. Línea Aérea y Número de vuelo 8. País de residencia 9. Ciudad de embarque 10. Domicilio en Estados Unidos (número y calle) 11. Ciudad y Estado 12. Apellido 13. Nombre 14. Fecha de nacimiento (Día/Mes/Año) 15. Nacionalidad

121

¿Ha estado o está implicado en actos de espionaje o sabotaje, actividades terroristas o genocidios; o participó de algún modo entre 1933 y 1945 en persecuciones relacionadas con la Alemania nazi o sus aliados? Sí / No D. ¿Tiene intención de trabajar en los Estados Unidos; ha sido excluido o deportado; o ha sido expulsado de los Estados Unidos, o ha obtenido o intentado obtener un visado o la entrada a los Estados Unidos por medios fraudulentos o dando información falsa?

Sí / No E. ¿Ha detenido, retenido, o impedido la custodia de un niño que corresponda legalmente a un ciudadano de los Estados Unidos?

Sí / No F. ¿Se le ha cancelado o denegado alguna vez el visado o la entrada en los Estados Unidos? En caso afirmitavo, especifique?

Sí / No ¿Cúando? ¿Dónde?

G. ¿Ha hecho valer alguna vez su inmunidad frente a un procesamiento?

Sí / No IMPORTANTE: Si ha contestado afirmativamente alguna de las preguntas, comuníquese con la Embajada de los Estados Unidos ANTES de su viaje, ya que se le puede denegar la entrada en los Estados Unidos.

RENUNCIA DE DERECHOS: Por la presente renuncio el derecho a solicitar la revisión del Oficial de Inmigración acerca de mi admisión en los Estados Unidos, o a apelarla, o a impugnar cualquier acto de deportación que no sea por razón de una solicitud de asilo.

DECLARACIÓN: Declaro que he leído y entendido todas las preguntas y enunciados enumerados en esta solicitud, y que las respuestas que he propocionado en este formulario son verdaderas y correctas a mi mejor saber y entender.

C.

SPANISH / ESPAÑOL ¿Le afecta alguna de estas restricciones a usted? (Conteste Si o No) A. ¿Padece usted de alguna enfermedad contagiosa, deficiencia física o mental, o es adicto a las drogas?

Sí / No B. ¿Ha sido usted arrestado o condenado por alguna infracción o delito de depravación moral; o por una violación relacionada con estupefacientes; arrestado o condenado por dos o más infracciones cuya sentencia total de reclusión fuera igual o superior a cinco años; ha sido traficante de estupefacientes, o pretende entrar en los Estados Unidos para realizar actividades criminales o inmorales?

Sí / No

ELECTRONIC SYSTEM FOR TRAVEL AUTHORIZATION Effective January 12, 2009, all passengers who intend to travel to the United States without a U.S. Visa under the terms of the Visa Waiver Program must obtain an electronic preauthorization or ESTA in advance of travel. When planning international travel, please be sure that you are in possession of all required documents. Remember to allow ample time for acquiring official travel documents. For complete information on the requirements, and to apply for ESTA, please visit www.cbp.gov/esta.

Spanish / Español A partir del 12 de enero de 2009, todos los pasajeros que quieran viajar a los EE.UU. (entre los terminos del programa de no tener que usar la Visa) tendran que obtener una preautorización electronica o ESTA antes de viajar. Cuando estés coordinando viajes internacionales, este seguro que tenga todos los documentos requerídos. No se olvide de dejar tiempo suficiente para adquirir los documentos oficiales de viaje.

Para información completa sobre todos los requisitos, y para aplicar para ESTA, por favor visite www.cbp.gov/esta.

122

JULY 2009 | UNITED.COM

CROSSWORD “GETTING AROUND” IF YOU FILL IN THE CROSSWORD PLEASE TAKE THE MAGAZINE WITH YOU SO IT’S REPLACED. // ANSWERS FOUND ON P. 51

92. Reprocess 94. Fable 96. Anita Brookner’s Hotel du ___ 97. Hand protector 99. Suffix with Caesar 100. With competence 102. A single track train 105. The “P” in PB&J 108. Delicate 111. Trouser measurement 114. Good-looking 116. Before, for short 117. Ancient fertility goddess 118. Plain folk 119. Prefix with scope 121. European sea eagle 123. The Who’s “___ O’Riley” 124. Hem again 125. The root of perfume and some gins 126. Plum pudding ingredient 127. And others, for short 128. “___ record” 129. Twosomes 130. Streetcar DOWN 1. Disgrace 2. Paint thinner 3. Canadian capital 4. One of the parents 5. Unconventional 6. Agnus ___ 7. Log home 8. Cousin of a giraffe 9. Balloon filler 10. Sing like Bublé 11. Mandlíková of tennis 12. Second of two 13. Go over again 14. Short-straw drawer 15. Photographer Adams 16. Big first for a baby 18. Put down 21. Effortless 27. ___ cotta 29. Lasso 31. Famous 33. “___ alive!”

36. Extinct flightless bird 37. Cab 38. Baldwin or Guinness 40. Restricting food intake

41. Building extension 42. TV Station 44. Casa chamber 45. Merlin, e.g.

46. Hamlet has five 48. Like some fish hooks or wire 49. Italian lawn game 50. “All in ___ work” 53. Lass 57. One who leads a Spartan lifestyle 59. Animal with a mane 61. St. Lawrence ___ 64. M*A*S*H star 66. Common types of vipers 67. ___ O’Donnell

69. Folk singer Burl 71. Disney World transport 72. Start of a counting-out rhyme 73. Endure 74. Not in the strike zone 77. Move faster 78. ___ monster 79. Paradise 82. Child’s play?

83. Dormmate 88. ___ the good 89. Mary ___ cosmetics 91. Develops 93. Mantra 95. Telephone part 98. Opposite of WSW

101. Nonsense 103. Meet, as expectations 104. Sanford of The Jeffersons 105. ___ Lap (1983 film) 106. Chair designer Charles 107. Licorice-flavored seeds 108. Commuter boat 109. Plant louse 110. “Ick!” 112. Held off 113. Breakfast, lunch or dinner 115. State of mind 117. Amorite of the Bible 120. “La la” preceder 122. Same old, same old

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ACROSS 1. Charged 7. Carriage 12. Wallace of Reader’s Digest 16. Closed 17. Greek theaters 19. Director Kurosawa 20. Answer for 22. Bakery buy 23. End-of-the-week cry 24. Red ___ 25. The Gondoliers girl 26. Understanding 28. Turn over, like a pancake 30. Hardwood sources 32. ___ Herman 33. Shiraz resident 34. Just about 35. Storyteller 36. Beetle Bailey creator Walker 37. Body decoration, for short 39. Like some remarks 42. Dairy animal 43. She, in Italy 47. One Thousand and One Nights hero 51. Kite part 52. Suspend 54. NRC forerunner 55. Warrior princess of TV 56. Toothsome org. in Columbus, OH 58. “I cannot ___ lie” 60. ___ of Langerhans 62. Cake decorator 63. ___ Grande, Arizona 65. Behind in the rent 68. It has a chain and a saddle 70. Venetian mode of transport 71. Broadcast 75. Beatty and Buntline 76. Salary 80. Aptly named English novelist 81. Turkic language 84. Luau souvenir 85. Battery fluid 86. Reply to a ques.

87. Japanese alcoholic beverage 90. ___ vera

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JULY 2009 | UNITED.COM

QUIZ SUDOKU

REFERENCE POINTS

DIGITAL UNDERGROUND // BY MITCH ROSE

ACTUALLY, YES, IT IS WHAT YOU KNOW // BY NOAH TARNOW

2

2. A 1987 teen vampire movie, and resettled refugees from the Sudanese civil war

7 3 8

4. The outer atmosphere of a star, and the top-selling import beer in the United States

POP MUSIC THESAURUS Each question is the opening lyric to a popular song, reworded in fancier language.

Name the song.

4 5

7 2 9 7 6 8

1. “Imagine that your body is in a watercraft on a liquid tributary, accompanied by orange-like arboreal growths and heavens of sweetened fruit paste.” (1967) 2. “At the time of the lunar body smacking your ocular orb in the manner of a significantly sized dish of sauce, cheese, bread and spices—such is affection in Rome.” (1952) 3. “Greetings, gentleman who smacks stretched skins over bangled frames. Perform a musical composition on my behalf.” (1965) 4. “Commence distributing the timely information as putting butter on toast. I am absconding during the present period of terrestrial rotation.” (1979)

5 2 5 6 9 4 1 3 8 7

1 9 3 6 8 7 4 5 2

4 7 8 2 3 5 6 9 1

8 1 5 7 6 4 9 2 3

7 2 9 3 1 8 5 4 6

6 3 4 5 9 2 1 7 8

5 4 7 1 2 6 8 3 9

3 6 2 8 5 9 7 1 4

9 8 1 4 7 3 2 6 5

EASY

1 6 9 2 7 3 8 4 5 7 6 3 9 8 5 4 2

4 9 2 3 1 7 8 5

5 1 8 4 2 6 3 7

1 3 4 7 6 9 5 8

6 2 5 8 3 4 1 9

8 7 9 1 5 2 6 4

9 4 6 5 7 3 2 1

3 5 1 2 9 8 7 6

2 8 7 6 4 1 9 3

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4 6 9 7 3 5 1 2 8

2.

1 7 2 4 6 8 3 9 5

2 1 3

3. A brand of chewing tobacco, and a Danish toast to good health

6

2 9 4 6 8 7 5 1 3

5

1. Rick Blaine in Casablanca, and one stroke over par in golf

9

7 3 8 5 1 9 4 6 2

MODERATE

COMMON FACTORS What word or phrase describes both of the following?

6 1 5 3 4 2 9 8 7

HARD

7 9 2 5

6

1.

4. A young Jewish artist trained in the art of escape, CENSORED has just smuggled himself out of Nazi-invaded Prague. His Brooklyn cousin CENSORED is looking for a partner to create heroes for the latest novelty to hit America—the CENSORED.

3 2 1 8 5 6 7 4 9

ANSWERS

9

6 1 3 5 8 5 6 5 4 2 9 2 7 5 4 6 1 6 1

3.

3. CENSORED’s daringly original literary vision and her groundbreaking philosophy, CENSORED, won immediate worldwide interest and acclaim. This instant classic is the story of an intransigent young CENSORED, his violent battle against conventional standards, and his explosive love affair with a beautiful woman who struggles to defeat him.

6 5 3

6 7 8 3 6

8

2. A CENSORED is taken over by its mistreated CENSORED. Thus the stage is set for one of the most telling satiric fables ever penned—a razor-edged tale that records the evolution from revolution against tyranny to a totalitarianism just as terrible.

3.

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F O R M O R E I N F O, G O T O B I G Q U I Z T H I N G .C O M

8 7 1

2.

1. A diabolical study of how a man becomes a fanatic, but also a hymn to CENSORED. Bent as the crew is on CENSORED’s crusade, it is equally the image of a cooperative community at work.

7 9 2 3 5 2 9 1 7 4

2 5 6 5

5 8

9

8 5 6 9 7 4 2 3 1

1 2

BOOK-CENSORSHIP BONANZA Name the novels whose descriptions have been censored.

3

BOOK-CENSORSHIP BONANZA 1. MOBY-DICK 2. ANIMAL FARM 3. THE FOUNTAINHEAD 4. THE AMAZING ADVENTURES OF KAVALIER & CLAY COMMON FACTORS 1. BOGEY 2. LOST BOYS 3. SKOAL 4. CORONA POP MUSIC THESAURUS 1. “LUCY IN THE SKY WITH DIAMONDS,” BEATLES 2. “THAT’S AMORÉ,” DEAN MARTIN 3. “MR. TAMBOURINE MAN,” BOB DYLAN 4. “(THEME FROM) NEW YORK, NEW YORK,” FRANK SINATRA

1 8 4 7

3 1.

6

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MARKETPLACE

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2009

127

FOOD & BEVERAGES RELAX WITH YOUR FAVORITE DRINK. Beverage service is available on most United flights.

Alcoholic beverage selections vary according to cabin class and international or domestic flight status. Alcoholic beverages are available for $6 each in economy class.

HAVE A REFRESHING DRINK NONALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES • • • • • • • •

Soft Drinks Tonic Water Seltzer Water Natural Spring Water Milk Tea Assorted Fruit Juices Starbucks Regular and Decaffeinated Coffees

Starbucks Coffee

WINES Coke

Diet Coke UNITED FIRST AND BUSINESS DOMESTIC FLIGHTS

Sprite

Sprite Zero

You will be offered a choice of red and white wines.

Selections may include the following:

THE FOLLOWING IS AVAILABLE ON SELECT UNITED FIRST AND BUSINESS DOMESTIC AND INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS:

• Brut D’Argent NV

• Kingfish Shiraz • Redwood Creek Cabernet WHITE

• Kingfish Chardonnay • Redwood Creek Chardonnay

• Debortoli db Selection Shiraz 2008 Southeastern Australia Bloody Mary Mix

RED

SPARKLING WINE

RED

Ginger Ale

UNITED ECONOMY ALL FLIGHTS

WHITE

• Longwood Sauvignon Blanc 2007 Western Cape Apple and Tomato Juices

Spring Water

UNITED FIRST AND BUSINESS INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS Please refer to the printed menu.

BEER, COCKTAILS, SPIRITS AND LIQUEURS Selections may vary on United Express flights.

UNITED FIRST, BUSINESS AND ECONOMY It is United policy on all flights to ask you to use only the lavatories in your ticketed cabin. This policy complies with the U.S. Transportation Security Administration directive that passengers on international flights to the U.S. may use only the lavatories in their ticketed cabin.

Alcohol may be served to customers over 21 only. By FAA rule, we may not serve alcohol to customers who appear intoxicated. Customers are limited to one alcoholic beverage at a time during service. Only alcohol provided by United and served by flight attendants may be consumed onboard.

BEER

COCKTAILS

LIQUEURS

• Miller Genuine Draft • Miller Lite • Heineken

• Bloody Mary • Screwdriver

• Courvoisier VSOP Cognac • Bailey’s Irish Cream • Kahlúa

Beer offerings are subject to availability. A selection of regional beers is offered on some international flights.

SPIRITS

• • • • • •

Bacardi Rum Canadian Club Reserve Dewar’s White Label Scotch Finlandia Vodka Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Whiskey Jim Beam Black Bourbon Whiskey • Tanqueray Gin

The following are available only on international flights: • Absolut Vodka • Chivas Regal Scotch • Di Saronno Amaretto • Glenlivet Scotch (premium cabins only)

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM | JULY 2009

129

ENJOY A SNACKBOX OR A FRESH FOOD ITEM. A choice of snackboxes, salads and sandwiches is available on flights departing before 8 p.m. Breakfast is available on flights departing before 10 a.m. Snackboxes are $6; fresh food items are $9. Individual à la carte snack items available for $3 each on flights two to three hours in length.*

SNACKBOXES / AVAILABLE ON MAINLINE FLIGHTS OF THREE HOURS AND LONGER.

smartpack • Stacy’s Simply Naked Bagel Chips • Copper Cowbell Creamy Garden Vegetable Cheese Spread • Sweet Perry Orchards Unsweetened Applesauce • Mrs. May’s Cashew Nut Crunch • Sugar Bowl Bakery Palmier Cookie • Emergen-C Energy Drink Mix

quickpick

minimeal • Old Wisconsin Beef Salami Slices • Late July Classic Rich Organic Crackers • Copper Cowbell Parmesan Peppercorn Cheese Spread • Sensible Portions Cheddar Multi-grain Crisps • Mariani Tropical Mix Dried Fruit • Brent & Sam’s Chocolate Chip Cookie

• O’Brien’s Pepperoni and Mozzarella • Ortega Salsa • Stoned Classics White Tortilla Chips • Emerald Walnuts and Almonds • Mott’s Applesauce • Hershey’s Mini Milk-Chocolate Bar

rightbite • Bumblebee Lemon and Pepper Tuna • Wild Garden Hummus • Carr’s Water Crackers • Stacy’s Simply Naked Pita Chips • Nabisco Lorna Doone Shortbread Cookies • Hershey’s Extra Dark Chocolate Square

FRESH FOOD ITEMS / ONE CHOICE AVAILABLE ON SELECT FLIGHTS OF FIVE HOURS AND LONGER. $9* À LA CARTE ITEMS

BREAKFAST

• • • • •

An assortment of gourmet cheese and crackers, accompanied by a seasonal fresh-fruit mixture, fresh yogurt and one of the following: • banana miniloaf • raspberry breakfast cake • apple Danish

Lay’s Stax Potato Chips Walkers Shortbread Cookies Toblerone Chocolate Bar Clif Oatmeal Raisin Energy Bar Odwalla Banana Nut Granola Bar • Fisher Fruit & Nut Trail Mix

*United flights within North America (including U.S., Canada, Mexico, Central America and the Caribbean) will accept credit/debit cards only. International flights will accept credit/debit cards and cash. United Express flights will accept only cash.

Due to limited space, all snackboxes may not be available on all flights.

Snackbox contents may vary slightly based on product availability. None of the items in the snackboxes contain peanuts, peanut flour, or peanut oil. Some products have been manufactured in a facility that also processes peanuts and are labeled as such.

Flight attendants will advise which selections are available on your flight.

LUNCH AND DINNER SALADS ALL SALADS ACCOMPANIED BY A SELECTION OF FRESH, SEASONAL MIXED FRUIT.

Turkey and Bacon Cobb Salad

TURKEY AND BACON COBB SALAD Crisp romaine lettuce topped with diced roasted turkey, chopped bacon, diced tomatoes, sliced black olives, diced Swiss cheese and hard boiledegg wedges, served with a balsamic vinaigrette dressing.

JULIENNE CHEF SALAD CRISP romaine lettuce topped with Black Forest ham, julienne ovenroasted turkey breast, Napa cabbage, shredded cheddar cheese, diced tomato, chopped black olives and sliced hard-boiled egg, served with ranch dressing.

GRILLED ASIAN CHICKEN SALAD Grilled Asian chicken breast served with a blend of radicchio and Napa cabbage along with fresh cilantro, cucumbers and julienne carrots, served with an Asian sesame-ginger dressing.

SANDWICHES

EACH SANDWICH IS SERVED WITH A BAG OF CHIPS.

Smoked Turkey and Swiss Club

SMOKED TURKEY AND SWISS CLUB WRAP Thin-sliced mesquite turkey breast and turkey bacon, topped with crisp romaine lettuce, cucumber, tomato, red onion and Swiss cheese, with a spinach-cream cheese spread on a flour tortilla.

GRILLED TUSCAN CHICKEN AND SALAMI WRAP Sliced marinated chicken breast, thinly sliced Genoa salami and provolone cheese, topped with baby spinach, shredded Napa cabbage, roasted red tomato and kalamata olives, with a basil garlic-cream cheese spread on a flour tortilla.

TURKEY, CHEDDAR AND ASPARAGUS WRAP Sliced oven-roasted turkey breast and cheddar cheese, topped with shredded Napa cabbage, baby spinach, asparagus and roasted red tomato, with a spinach-cream cheese spread on a flour tortilla.

On selected intra-Pacific flights originating from Japan, enjoy a Trader Vic’s meal in United First or United Business.

JULY 2009 | UNITED.COM

in transit

GETTING TO KNOW YOU WHO SALLY MORSE

59 / Director of Creative Services, Hunter Douglas Window Fashions WHY I’M FLYING / I’m

headed to Regina, in Saskatchewan, to do charity events for the Ronald McDonald House and a women’s shelter. I put on an interior design seminar called “The 10 Steps to the Perfect Room,” and the proceeds go to the charities.

HOW I SILENCE CHATTY SEATMATES / The more

work I get done on the plane, the less I have to do later. So if my seatmate wants to talk and I need to do some writing, I tell them I work for one of those companies that sells housewares doorto-door. They never want to talk after that.

PREFLIGHT RITUAL / I always stop by Garrett Popcorn in O’Hare’s Terminal 1 and get a bag of the Garrett Mix (caramel corn mixed with cheesy corn). It’s kind of an indulgence. That and getting frisked by security! I’ve had both knees replaced with titanium, so I always buzz.

There’s a TSA agent in California who got further with me in three minutes than my husband did in eight dates!

“Popcorn is my airport indulgence. That and getting frisked by security!”

PHOTOGRAPH BY SPENCER HEYFRON

PHOTOCREDIT TK

130

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