United Airlines Hemispheres Magazine July 2014 by Ahmed Aamir

JULY 2014

Hemispheres

THREE PERFECT DAYS: PORTLAND • ADVENTURE SPECIAL • THE HEMI Q&A WITH JANE GOODALL

THREE PERFECT DAYS PORTLAND

THE HEMI Q&A: JANE GOODALL ON A LIFE SPENT CHAMPIONING MOTHER NATURE LET’S RIDE THE TOUR DE FRANCE PEDALS OFF IN ENGLAND THE LAST LAUGH MONTY PYTHON REUNITES FOR A FINAL SHOW IN LONDON

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Collection Genuine

SAN FRANCISCO Shreve & Co

BERLIN KaDeWe • Hotel Adlon

Delight

HONG KONG ifc mall • Harbour City

LONDON: Boodles • BEIJING: China World Mall, Phase 3 • DUSSELDORF: Königsallee 60 LUXEMBOURG: 19 Grand Rue • ZURICH: Beyer • VIENNA: Am Graben 14 • Wellendorff, tel. (+49) 7231 – 2840 128 www.wellendorff.com

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What colour is your delight?

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YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY

64 THE HEMI Q&A Famed scientist Jane Goodall talks about her new book, her chimpanzees and her 80th birthday

68 THE NEW ADVENTURERS Get your adrenaline ﬂowing with the newest, craziest extreme sports

74 THREE PERFECT DAYS: PORTLAND The Rose City just might be the hippest town in America

CARISSA AND ANDREW GALLO

WELCOME ABOARD CEO LETTER A word from Jeff Smisek

VOICES A message to ﬂyers

CONNECTIONS What’s new at United

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JULY 2014

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06/06/2014 08:59

DISPATCHES News and notes from around the world

CULTURE THE MONTH AHEAD

What to read, watch and listen to in July

FOOD & DRINK

Gulf Coast chefs are cooking all the ﬁsh in the sea

STAY

From Spain to Sri Lanka, this month’s hottest hotels

TRAVEL ESSAY

AUTO-TATION

DOWNLOAD OUR FREE APP FROM ITUNES OR GOOGLE PLAY

The romance of travel? Leave it to the young’uns

Touring Italian wine country in the Ferrari FF hatchback SUBSCRIBE TO HEMISPHERES

WEAR IN … AMSTERDAM

Fashion tips from denim expert Sven Signe den Hartogh

THE FAN

For a free subscription to our monthly eMag and to access recent issues, go to

See attached photo for reference.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

The Tour de France comes to England; the English are displeased

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BRIGHT IDEAS 55

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INDUSTRY

Hemispheres

THREE PERFECT DAYS PORTLAND

Are Japanese retailers conquering the American market?

TECH

THE HEMI Q&A: JANE GOODALL ON A LIFE SPENT CHAMPIONING MOTHER NATURE LET’S RIDE THE TOUR DE FRANCE PEDALS OFF IN ENGLAND

JULIE SOEFER PHOTOGRAPHY (BYCATCH); JIM ROSS/INVISION/AP (TERRY GILLIAM AND JOHN CLEESE )

HOW IT’S DONE A wearable patch that repels mosquitoes

THE LAST LAUGH MONTY PYTHON REUNITES FOR A FINAL SHOW IN LONDON

A Chicago organization gives a boost to women with tech startups

25 ABOUT THE COVER: The twin spire towers of the Oregon Convention Center, east of the Willamette River in Portland. Photography by Neil DaCosta

A HEMISPHERES SUPPLEMENT

JULY 2014

NEW MEXICO

ENTERTAINMENT AND INFORMATION Audio Programming, Movies, Television and Inﬂight Wi-Fi

105

Crossword and Sudoku

114

Route Maps, Customs & Immigration, Our Fleet, Terminal Diagrams, Safety & Travel Assistance, MileagePlus and Alliances & Partnerships

119

Food & Beverages

136

I N F L U E N C EI NR FS L U E NE C EO RN SO M Y E C OI N NO OM VY A T I OI N N O V GA LT OI OB NA L I MG PL AO CB TA L I MR PE AV CI T A L I Z A T I O N

98 DOSSIER, Hemispheres’ economic-development series, explores New Mexico, whose diverse cultures and dramatic landscapes form an attractive backdrop for an ongoing boom in new technologies, traditional industries, education, real estate and the arts.

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WRITE TO US: editorial@hemispheresmagazine.com 68 Jay St., Ste. 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201

JULY 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

12/06/2014 15:04

I N THE S E I KO N AT ION , W E H AV E OU T E R S PACE CONNE C T IO N S T O ALL TIME ZONES ON EARTH.

Forward focused. Sky’s the limit. This optimistic outlook connects the Seiko Nation. And creates the only watch with a low-energy-consumption GPS receiver. Now the satellites revolve around you, as the ASTRON GPS SOLAR CHRONOGRAPH connects to the GPS network, identifying location and adjusting the time to your current zone. Solar-powered, planet-friendly, so no battery change is ever needed, Seiko puts the progress in GPS. SeikoUSA.com

PROGRESS TO SEIKO

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02/06/2014 09:42

READ AT YOUR OWN RISK THIS MONTH’S ISSUE of Hemispheres is all about adventure and the great outdoors. First, we talk to legendary scientist Jane Goodall, who became famous for her work with chimpanzees in Africa and at age 80 is still a staunch advocate for the environment (page 64). If you’re looking for a more high-energy form of entertainment, on page 68 we’ve got a roundup of the newest, craziest extreme sports, from wingsuit flying (as you can see in the picture at le , the sport basically consists of jumping off a cliff wearing a Superman cape) to volcano surfing (which is exactly what it sounds like). Finally, there’s “Three Perfect Days: Portland” (page 74). With its proximity to the Cascade range and the Columbia Gorge, Portland is smack in the middle of some of the world’s pre iest landscapes, and July is the perfect time to get out and enjoy them. —The Editors

EDITOR IN CHIEF Jordan Heller EXECUTIVE EDITOR Chris Wright MANAGING EDITOR Justin Goldman SENIOR EDITOR Jacqueline Detwiler ASSOCIATE EDITOR Erin Brady ART DIRECTOR Christos Hannides ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Claire Eckstrom PHOTO EDITOR Jessie Adler CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Eric Benson, Steve Friess, Alyssa Giacobbe, Jolyon Helterman, Andy Isaacson, Adam K. Raymond, Cristina Rouvalis CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS

Christine Berrie, Peter James Field, Alex Nabaum, Peter Oumanski, James Provost, Steve Stankiewicz EXECUTIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Michael Keating Ink, 68 Jay St., Ste. 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 Tel: +1 347-294-1220 Fax: +1 917-591-6247 editorial@hemispheresmagazine.com hemispheresmagazine.com WEBMASTER Salah Lababidi

YOU MAY NOW USE YOUR ELECTRONIC DEVICES! Download Hemispheres’ free app—for smartphone, iPad and Android tablet—and get every issue, plus special bonus features like additional stories, photos and video.

ADVERTISING U.S. GROUP PUBLISHING DIRECTORS

Stephen Andrews, Jack Grant VP, STRATEGY AND BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Andrea Alexander VP, SPECIAL PROJECTS Carsten Morgan DIRECTOR, SPECIAL PROJECTS

Greg Caccavale STRATEGIC ACCOUNTS DIRECTOR (FASHION) Anna Szpunar STRATEGIC ACCOUNTS DIRECTOR (JEWELRY & WATCHES) Banu Yilmaz NATIONAL ACCOUNT MANAGERS

CONTRIBUTORS

Andrea Chase-Ward U.S. TERRITORY MANAGERS

Danny Litton, Jack Miller, Allison Maddox, Ryan Sadorf, Alison White HAWAII Nella Media Group EUROPE Natalie Kenneally ASIA Jacqueline Ho LATIN/SOUTH AMERICA/MEXICO

Daniela Cateriano SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Byron Bickes, Glenn McDaniel PRODUCTION MANAGER Joe Massey

Tel: +1 678-553-8091 PRODUCTION CONTROLLER

Stacy Willis

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TOM ROWLEY is

LINA ZELDOVICH

The Daily Telegraph’s special correspondent. Based in London, he travels across Britain and Europe, ﬁling colorful dispatches on breaking news stories and seeking out quirky subjects for features. On page 19, he reports from Scalloway, in Scotland’s isolated Shetland Islands, on the Fire Festival, a modern version of a Viking invasion, and why the locals there are so keen to remember their marauding heritage.

edits feature stories for Nautilus, an awardwinning magazine of science and society in New York. She is a culture shock junkie and loves traveling oﬀ the beaten path in the Middle East, Russia and South America. On page 55, she reports about the company ieCrowd’s a empt to develop a more eﬀective, less toxic mosquito repellent, which would prevent millions of deaths from malaria and dengue fever.

REGIONAL CREDIT MANAGER

Christian Storer

Ink (sales), 1375 Spring St., Atlanta, GA 30309 Tel: +1 888-864-1733 Fax: +1 917-591-6247 Ink CEO Jeffrey O’Rourke COO Hugh Godsal PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Simon Leslie HEMISPHERES is produced monthly by Ink. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions expressed in Hemispheres are not necessarily those of the Publisher or United Airlines, and United Airlines does not accept any responsibility for advertising content. Neither United, its subsidiaries nor affiliates guarantees the accuracy, completeness or timeliness of, or otherwise endorses these facts, views, opinions or recommendations, gives investment advice, or advocates the purchase or sale of any security or investment. You should always seek the assistance of a professional for tax and investment advice. Any images are supplied at the owner’s risk. Any mention of United Airlines or the use of United Airlines logo by any advertiser in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company or its products or services by United Airlines.

CORBIS (WINGSUIT FLYING)

Former Hemispheres editor JACQUELINE DETWILER has wri en for Wired, Esquire, Men’s Health and Men’s Fitness, and is a new senior editor at Popular Mechanics. She is prone to shouting “Ermagerd, Science!” whenever she gets excited, and had to tone it down to interview her hero, famed British primatologist, ethologist and anthropologist Jane Goodall for The Hemi Q&A on page 64. Goodall, for her part, didn’t seem to mind.

JULY 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

12/06/2014 15:05

FLIGHT UPGRADE AVAILABLE AT MONSTERPRODUCTS.COM AND THE FOLLOWING STORES:

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09/06/2014 16:31

CEO LETTER

Supporting Our Troops and Veterans

elcome aboard, and thanks for choosing United. At United, we have many employees who are in the active military or retired from service, and I’m proud to have these courageous men and women on our team. We support our employees who serve our country, and as a global airline we are in a position to use our reach and resources to help other members of the U.S. military and veterans. In addition to the small things we’re able to do, like thank our uniformed military at the airport by inviting them to board early, we also provide travel assistance for events important to our servicemen and women and veterans. We oﬀer charter ﬂights from Guam to Iwo Jima under a special arrangement with the government of Japan for the annual Iwo Jima memorial services. In March, we partnered with Military Historical Tours for the 19th time to send two Iwo Jima

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veterans to the island. They were able to take part in the special memorials to honor those who served during one of World War II’s longest and fiercest Pacific battles. Also in March, employees from various departments teamed up to help more than 600 veterans, coaches, sponsors and volunteers travel through our stations for the annual Disabled Veterans Winter Sports Clinic in Aspen. We are a proud sponsor of this event, which enables injured veterans to travel to Aspen for a weeklong rehabilitation clinic, where they enjoy a variety of winter mountain activities. In addition to assisting with air transportation, we partnered with the Chicago Department of Aviation to host a 5K/10K “Run on the Runway” at Chicago’s O’Hare Airport. Proceeds from the unique event beneﬁted the Wounded Warrior Project serving military veterans. We also recently formed United for Veterans—a business resource group made

up of volunteer employees, both veterans and non-veterans. The members come together to promote veteran priorities like career development and talent acquisition while helping to provide resources to support those priorities. I want to thank all of you who are in the active military or who are veterans, with special thanks to our own United employees for your service, patriotism and dedication to the good of our country.

JEFF SMISEK CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD, PRESIDENT AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER, UNITED AIRLINES

JULY 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

04/06/2014 15:23

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Now serving you through our new London Heathrow Terminal 2.

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VOICES

Code Whisperer Erik Stogo follows his passion to offer new adventures for United customers BY A. AVERYL RE

“WE WANT OUR customers to be able to explore travel, not just book travel,” says Erik Stogo. When the software engineer starts talking about his work—especially the new united.com he and co-workers from various departments have spent many months developing—you almost expect him to don a fedora, take up a whip and go exploring new worlds. “I want them to be excited to use it, because our travel tools are fun and engaging. Aesthetically, it’s beautiful—radically different from anything out there and radically diﬀerent from the existing website.” United has one of the largest retail websites in the world. The new website, coming this year, represents a light-year’s leap forward from 1994, when the airline mailed purchasing software for its highest-paying customers to install on their computers. Stogo has been with the

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company since 1998. He brought a huge bag of tricks picked up from spending six months at a time working a wide range of businesses as a contractor. ”I never wanted to be permanent,” he says. “Programmers get bored very easily. You can see how exciting this place is that I stayed here for more than 16 years.” For a guy who doesn’t like to sit still in life or in his career, an airline proved an ideal match. “The problems and complexities are way more interesting than anything I’ve ever worked on,” he says. “We have so much more to consider and take into account from a programming point of view than they do in other businesses, whether it’s looking at the global network as a whole or at each individual flight. We’re also in an intensely competitive environment.” For most of his life, coding has provided a challenge for Stogo. “When I was 15, I got

a Commodore 64,” he says. “I started programming and never looked back.” He first took computer science in school, but got bored because, he says, “I wanted to write code. I didn’t want to just learn about it. The thing about programming is you will never learn everything. You just find one area and you start on that and you follow whatever you find interesting and engaging. It’s a creative outlet. There’s a million different ways to make code do something. It’s a combination of science and art.” For Stogo and the team, applying science and art toward building a new website meant learning a new technology altogether. “We’re two technologies removed from when I first started here. It’s like a spaceship versus a tricycle. It’s that much of a distinction.” There is such a distinction, in fact, that the team could not move directly from current technology to building a website using Model View Controller technology. “We had to take training, and then we built prototypes,” Stogo says. “The business team and designers are brilliant business minds. They created the new design and flow. We execute it and share with them any limitations, or we negotiate changes that need to be made to make sure it works. I handle availability and booking—flight search results, gathering information about your travel and booking it. We have 100 guys or so working on different pieces. Farming it out to all these different guys makes it tricky to integrate and make sure all the pieces plug in and work great.” One of the biggest challenges in building the new website was making it more complex and versatile while simultaneously simplifying things for the customer. “Every click, every page, every obstacle is one more opportunity for him to say, ‘Forget it. I’m going someplace where it’s easier,’” Stogo says. When Stogo isn’t seeking out new worlds in cyberspace, he likes to seek out new adventures with his 19-year old daughter, Elizabeth. “She’s my favorite,” he says. “You can say that because I just have one.” Father and daughter love going to the beach, on Maui in particular, where they can sink their toes in the sand. And, of course, he still studies programming, because he always wants something new to discover.

JULY 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

11/06/2014 09:10

Briefcase or beach towel? Both. As the weather warms up—you can too. Take a little time for yourself and hit the road with up to 25% savings worldwide and earn 225 award miles per day. So next time you travel, tack on an extra day or two and make the most out of your trip. There’s no better season than now to unwind by renting with Avis—a preferred partner of United®. For reservations, visit www.avis.com/unitedtriplemiles or call 1-800-331-1212. Use AWD K019378 and coupon # MUAA040 when booking.

Terms and Conditions: Triple award miles offer valid on a qualifying rental of one or more consecutive days at participating Avis airport locations in the U.S., Canada, Africa, Asia, Australia, the Caribbean, Europe, Latin America, Mexico, the Middle East and New Zealand. Bonus miles offer valid on all car groups. An advance reservation is required. Offer may not be used with any other coupon, promotion or offer except your Avis Worldwide Discount (AWD). The savings of up to 25% applies to the time and mileage charges only. Taxes, concession recovery fees, vehicle license recovery fee, customer facility charges ($10/contract in CA) and fuel charges are extra. Optional items such as LDW ($35.99/day or less) and other surcharges may apply and are extra. MileagePlus number must be mentioned at the time of reservation or at the rental counter to receive base and bonus miles. Offer is subject to vehicle availability at the time of rental and may not be available on some rates at some times, including some online rates at Avis.com. Car rental return restrictions may apply. Offer subject to change without notice. Holiday and other blackout periods may apply. Blackout dates: Australia: 20 DEC 13 – 4 JAN 14; 11-27 APR 14; 20 DEC 14 – 3 JAN 15; Europe, Middle East and Africa: January 1 – 3, April 11 – April 27, July 1 – August 31 and December 14 - 31, 2014; Latin America, Mexico and the Caribbean: January 1 – 3, February 15-21, April 11 – April 20, July 1 – August 31 and December 14 - 31, 2014. Renter must meet Avis age, driver and credit requirements. Minimum rental age may vary by location. An additional daily surcharge may apply for renters younger than 25 years old. Frequent flyer surcharge of up to $0.75 USD per day may apply. Rental must begin by December 31, 2014. Premier members earn an additional 50 bonus award miles per day. Miles accrued, awards and benefits issued are subject to change and are subject to the rules of the United MileagePlus program. Please allow 6-8 weeks after completed qualifying activity for bonus miles to post to your account. United® may change the MileagePlus program including, but not limited to, rules, regulations, travel awards and special offers or terminate the MileagePlus program at any time and without notice. Bonus award miles, award miles and any other miles earned through nonflight activity do not count or qualify for Premier® status unless expressly stated otherwise. United and its subsidiaries, affiliates and agents are not responsible for any products and services of other participating companies and partners. Taxes and fees related to award travel are the responsibility of the member. The accumulation of mileage or Premier status or any other status does not entitle members to any vested rights with respect to the program. United and MileagePlus are registered service marks. For complete details about the MileagePlus program, go to www.united.com. ©2014 Avis Rent A Car System, LLC

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04/04/2014 09:41

CONNECTIONS ASK THE PILOT

With Captain Mike Bowers

Q: On the ground, there are days when winds are still, but are there always winds at ﬂying altitude? And are they more consistent at altitude?

Social Connections MORE THAN 1 MILLION customers have discovered the electrifying experience of ge ing social with United. Options to connect include Twi er, Facebook, Instagram and YouTube, among others, or through United’s own “The Hub” (unitedhub.com). Director of Social Media Karin Moan says those connections provide several beneﬁts. “Our social media fans and followers include many of our most active MileagePlus Premier members,” Moan says. “Social media helps us build relationships with our most engaged customers.” Some take advantage of the nearly continuously available team to smooth out travel bumps. Social media staﬀ and a dozen reservations agents respond to 25,000 or more incoming messages a week, usually within 30 minutes of a customer’s tweet or post. But ensuring a seamless trip is only a small part of the social-media advantage. Regular

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social-media followers gain insights into the company and o en learn about changes and announcements. They also get in on special promotions, such as sponsorships or special oﬀers. Recent promotions gave customers a shot at Major League Baseball tickets and other giveaways. One customer even got his own personal high ﬁve when a team member arranged for a United employee to give him props at the airport a er he tweeted a request! Just one more reason customers love to interact with us, as evidenced by the 380 percent uptick in followers on Twi er and the 200 percent increase on Facebook between 2013 and 2014. “We’re continuing to grow and focus on having more personal connections with our customers. It’s an important part of our business,” Moan says. “We’re invested in making it a meaningful experience.” —A. AVERYL RE

A: While each region has its own wind patterns, generally speaking, winds average 80–100 mph at ﬂying altitude. The location and intensity vary, much as they do on the surface. At altitude, I have seen winds above 200 mph, and I have also seen calm winds. The strongest winds are closest to the core of the Jet Stream. In the Caribbean, it is not uncommon to have calm winds at altitude.

Do you have a question for Captain Bowers? You can write to him at askthepilot@united.com.

JULY 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

04/06/2014 15:24

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27/05/2014 16:48

DISPATCHES NEWS AND NOTES FROM AROUND THE WORLD

July 4, 1777 Fireworks make an appearance at the ﬁrst celebration of American Independence Day in Philadelphia.

1400s–1500s In England, “ﬁremasters” perform the dangerous job of setting off ﬁreworks. Their assistants are called “green men” for the caps made of leaves they wear to protect their heads.

1295 Merchant ships, including those of Venetian explorer Marco Polo, transport ﬁreworks to Europe from the Orient, along with spices, paper currency and other riches.

A BRIEF HISTORY OF BOOM!

A.D. 600–900 Chinese alchemists invent a rudimentary gunpowder—including saltpeter, charcoal and sulphur—and stuff it into bamboo shoots or paper tubes before placing them on ﬁres. The bangs get bigger.

PHOTO CREDIT TK - REMOVE IF EMPTY

1830s Fireworks gain colors for the ﬁrst time when Italian pyrotechnicians introduce trace amounts of metals like strontium, copper and sodium.

Over the past 30 years, fireworks have become more colorful, timing tighter and pa erns more complex. At this rate, it won’t be long before we can spell out entire words in the sparks. However, the historical record of making flowers out of fire is not quite as fast and furious. It took the world more than 2,000 years to arrive at the humble smiley-face mortar, with a lot of (ahem) bursts of creativity along the way. Here, a few highlights. —JACQUELINE DETWILER

200 B.C. People in China, once frightened by the loud bangs green bamboo made when heated, begin to toss the sticks onto ﬁres so that the explosions will scare away evil spirits.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JULY 2014 • ILLUSTRATION BY THOMAS DANTHONY

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July 4, 1974 To liven up his Boston Pops Esplanade concerts, Arthur Fiedler conducts the “1812 Overture” with the addition of howitzer cannon blasts, ﬁreworks and the peal of church bells.

1999 In Orlando, Walt Disney World’s EPCOT center develops a new way to launch ﬁreworks, using compressed air instead of gunpowder, for its “IllumiNations 2000: Reﬂections of Earth” show.

July 4, 2014 New York City’s annual ﬁreworks return to the East River after ﬁve years of grousing from Brooklyn and Queens residents who couldn’t see them because they were on the opposite side of Manhattan.

11/06/2014 09:11

London Film Museum & EON Productions present

AN EXCITING NEW FAMILY EXHIBITION

Over 100 individual original items on display from all 23 James Bond films

The largest display of its kind ever staged in London

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09/06/2014 16:57

DISPATCHES

SCOTLAND

PILLAGE LIFE

A small island community celebrates the carnage of yesteryear BY TOM ROWLEY

THE SCALLOWAY Boating Club has seen better days. Ruddy-faced regulars sit on rickety wooden stools, trading insults with the barman. When the Viking hordes arrive, the regulars glance up momentarily and then, without comment, return to their drinks. Scalloway is the second largest settlement in Scotland’s remote Shetland Islands, but the population is small enough that everyone in this bar has, at some time, played a part in the town’s annual Fire Festival, which commemorates the ﬁrst Viking invasion of the Shetlands, in the 8th century. No one here is impressed by horned helmets anymore. The chief of the Vikings at this year’s event is oil rig worker Kenny

Grant, who will later lead a rabble of 45 men through the town, hollering Nordic oaths and thrusting ﬂaming torches aloft. Now, he hitches up his cloak to perch on a stool, propping his ax and shield against the bar as he orders a pint of local lager. Grant and his fellow Vikings work hard to maintain historical accuracy—though it’s unlikely that their forebears were as fussy about their battle garb. “It is quite hard to alter the costume,” says Grant, picking at his tunic. “But every year the public expects a new and glamorous design.” Accordingly, each of the event’s Vikings has spent around $1,300 updating his kit, interlocking the chain mail by hand and fashioning

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JULY 2014 • ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER OUMANSKI

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wristbands from salmon skin. Rehearsals have taken place throughout the year, and every man has grown a beard for the occasion. Many islanders can trace their ancestry back to the Scandinavian warriors who wreaked havoc here 13 centuries ago, and the annual parade that marks the invasion dates back to the Victorian era. There is a sense of history and ceremony to Scalloway’s Fire Festivals, but there are also vast amounts of beer consumed. “The Vikings did a lot of sacking and pillaging, but we can’t get away with that these days,” Grant says before ordering another pint. “The most we can hope for now is a kiss from the girl at the back of the hall.”

04/06/2014 15:38

DISPATCHES

GERMANY

THE DESK ORGANIZER OF THE GODS A SNEAK PEEK AT SOME OF THE WORLD’S PRICIEST HOUSEHOLD OBJECTS

In an imposing 14th-century castle in the Rheingau wine region, a dozen ﬂummoxed-looking jewelry experts huddle in a reception room. They have been summoned here, without much explanation, by the Wellendorff family, which, for four generations, has made luxe jewelry in Pforzheim, a two-hour drive away. One invitee likens the situation to the opening of an Agatha Christie novel. Quietly, members of the Wellendorff clan appear—the men straight-backed, the women wearing diamonds as big as a baby’s ﬁst. To the strains of a violin, a master of ceremonies in medieval garb

CHICAGO

MARQUEE FACADE Live and in person! Lady Gaga and Liza Minnelli! (Sort of) At the foot of a steel staircase, a stream of crisply dressed Chicagoans breezes past Liza Minnelli and Lady Gaga, who get the occasional double-take but not much more. The entrance to Sub 51, a swank subterranean nightclub in the city’s River North district, is neither guarded by beefy watchmen nor cordoned oﬀ by velvet rope. Gaga and Minnelli, milling about at the door, look as though they’d be open to a chat or a celebrity selﬁe. The invitation to the party—a booster for Atlantic City tourism—had

reveals the point of the evening: the unveiling of some one-of-a-kind pieces that family patriarch Hanspeter has been working on for the past ﬁve years. The guests are duly ushered into a series of candlelit rooms, each containing a table bearing a lone blue box. Inside one is a half-million-dollar gold goblet, with a ﬂawless 1-carat diamond set in a rosette. Another cradles a $200,000 letter opener, its handle wound with gold rope and crowned with a ruby. There’s a gold bottle stopper bristling with diamonds ($150,000) and a lapis, gold and diamond desk organizer ($400,000).

promised “lunch and entertainment” with “Legends,” which was an exciting (and vaguely worded) prospect. Samantha, the publicist for the lookalike live-tribute company Legends in Concert, allows that the invitation created confusion. “Several people called asking if it was really going to

“This was purely a labor of love,” says Hanspeter. With this, he reveals his masterpiece: a 14-inch golden water lily set with 400 precious stones. The piece is priced at $700,000, but Hanspeter seems to have little interest in this kind of value. “There is only one reason someone would want to own this,” he says. “Joy.” —BOYD FARROW

be them,” she says. Judging by the expressions on some of the faces here, the is-it-really-them? question is only now being resolved. “I told you,” hisses a young woman to her befuddled male companion. “I said.” Still, there’s a reasonable amount of enthusiasm as faux Liza shimmies onstage in a red sequined dress, belting out “Cabaret.” Later, in black spandex and crazy shoulder pads, the mock Gaga vamps her way through “Bad Romance” with plenty of vigor but li le in the way of verisimilitude. As the event winds down, the remaining guests busy themselves with pla ers of pork tacos, mini-burgers and roast chicken. “Hey,” says one guy through a mouthful of food, “at least the chicken legs are real.” —ROD O’CONNOR

DON’T MIME ME A RAIL FAN FINDS CONTENTMENT WHILE APING THE MOTIONS OF A TRAIN DRIVER JAPAN • As commuters on the Nagoya-

to -Toyo ta t ra i n s c r u t i n i z e t h e i r smartphones, one passenger stands with his face against the window separating the driver from the rest of the car. The man is middle-aged and portly, and he is holding a plastic bag in one hand while mimicking the driver’s movements with the other.

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“Idiot,” a teenage girl whispers to a friend in Japanese. The rest of the passengers, however, couldn’t care less. Tetsu-ota, or “rail fans,” have become a familiar presence on Japan’s train system. This particular fan is clearly a student of the elaborate hand gestures used by train drivers to convey, say, an approaching crossing or

signal light. Eagerly a entive, he follows the driver’s chopping and ﬁnger-pointing motions, shimmying a li le as he moves. As for the disapproving remarks from the teenage girls, the man either doesn’t hear or doesn’t care, and continues slicing the air happily as the train races through the trees. —JOHN HOPTON

JULY 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

04/06/2014 15:39

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DISPATCHES INDIA

CUPID’S CUDGEL DURING HOLI, A BASH ON THE HEAD CAN BE A DEMONSTRATION OF TRUE LOVE

In a sun-streaked courtyard in the western Indian village of Nandgaon, Anu Devi, a middle-aged mother of three, is bonking her husband on the head with a bamboo stick. The husband doesn’t seem too fazed by the assault, exchanging wry smiles with other men receiving the same treatment. “All the girls are hitting their husbands on their heads!” Anu Devi says, squaring up for another whack. The previous evening, these villagers were gathered around bonﬁres, singing and dancing,

celebrating the coming of spring and Holi, which is known as the Festival of Colors due to a raucously messy tradition in which people across India take to the streets to hurl colored powder or water at each other. Lathmar (“Hit ’Em With a Stick”) is a regional addition to the festivities. It recalls a tale in which the young Lord Krishna teased some girls in the neighboring village of Barsana, who chased him away with sticks. Today’s ritual is supposed to have the men of Nandgaon reprise

Krishna’s misadventure. What the original myth doesn’t suggest, though, is that the men should receive another beating when they get home—this part seems to be a more recent improvisation. There are political undertones to this tradition. In a male-dominated society, Lathmar represents a ﬂeeting and symbolic

opportunity for women to settle the score. But, like everything to do with Holi, the ritual is essentially a celebration of love. The wives often pad the business end of their sticks with cloth, Anu Devi explains, adding that she has opted for an additional precaution. “I made him wear a thicker turban today,” she says. —ARUN BHATIA

LITTLE GREEN FACTOIDS WORLD UFO DAY, BY THE NUMBERS The arrival of this year’s World UFO Day (July 2), as ever, instigates inquiries into ma ers such as whether or not tinfoil helmets oﬀer protection against intergalactic mind-reading rays. To celebrate the event, the oﬃcial UFO Day website

$1.5 MILLION ANNUAL OPERATING COST OF THE “ALIEN TELESCOPES” EMPLOYED BY THE SETI (SEARCH FOR EXTRATERRESTRIAL INTELLIGENCE) INSTITUTE

suggests that we throw parties, make T-shirts and “have conversations about the possibility of extraterrestrial life.” To this end, the Hemispheres stargazing team has compiled a few salient talking points. —HARRIET LETHERBARROW

34,435

NUMBER OF AMERICANS WHO SIGNED A 2012 PETITION CALLING FOR THE U.S. GOVERNMENT TO BEGIN CONSTRUCTION OF A DEATH STAR. (THE PROPOSAL WAS REJECTED BY THE WHITE HOUSE BECAUSE “THE ADMINISTRATION DOES NOT SUPPORT BLOWING UP PLANETS.”)

PERCENTAGE OF AMERICANS OPEN TO THE POSSIBILITY OF ALIEN VISITATIONS, ACCORDING TO A 2013 HUFFPOST/YOUGOV POLL

PERCENTAGE OF AMERICANS WHO, IN A 2012 POLL IN NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC, EXPRESSED THE BELIEF THAT BARACK OBAMA WOULD HANDLE AN ALIEN INVASION BETTER THAN MITT ROMNEY

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YEAR IN WHICH A KANSAS RANCHER CLAIMED TO HAVE WITNESSED ONE OF HIS COWS BEING ABDUCTED BY A CIGARSHAPED OBJECT

6,457 NUMBER OF REPORTED UFO SIGHTINGS IN THE UNITED STATES IN 2013

21 PERCENTAGE OF AMERICANS WHO, ACCORDING TO THE SAME NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC POLL, SAID THEY WOULD TRUST THE HULK TO DEFEAT AN INVADING ALIEN ARMY (AS OPPOSED TO 12 PERCENT FOR BATMAN AND 8 PERCENT FOR SPIDER-MAN)

1897

$850 QUADRILLION

ESTIMATED COST OF THE CONSTRUCTION OF SAID DEATH STAR

TIMES A UFO HAS BEEN TRACKED ON RADAR ENTERING THE EARTH’S ATMOSPHERE

JULY 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

04/06/2014 15:39

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culture ARTS

MEDIA

EVENTS

THE MONTH AHEAD

The Kids Are All Bright The ongoing quest to ﬁnd the U.K.’s next star designer

COURTESY OF THE NEW DESIGNERS EXHIBITION

You don’t have to look too hard to ﬁnd a big-name designer in London. Trickier is discerning where the next wave of talent is coming from. For the last three decades, the city’s New Designers exhibition has a empted to do just this, highlighting the work of budding designers in disciplines ranging from fashion to furniture. Among the 3,000 or so hopefuls showing their stuﬀ at the Business Design Centre this year is Louise Jones, aka Sparklymouse, who creates quirky embroidered illustrations, such as “Jessica Stam” (pictured). While Jones hasn’t set the world alight yet, the same could once have been said of exhibition alum Thomas Heatherwick, who went on to design the cauldron for the London 2012 Olympics. —CHRIS WRIGHT (July 2–5)

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JULY 2014

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culture || THE MONTH AHEAD

Oh, the Places You’ll Go

LEFT BEHIND Justin Theroux stars in “The Leftovers”

A professor of social geography at Newcastle University, Alastair Bonne trekked far oﬀ the beaten path to research his new book, Unruly Places: Lost Spaces, Secret Cities, and Other Inscrutable Geographies. Here, he talks us through some of his favorite destinations. —ERIN BRADY 1. THE UNFINISHED: “Giarre is a Sicilian

village crowded with 25 unﬁnished mega-projects, sports stadiums and civic palaces that are now tumbling with weeds. I was reminded of how so many of our cities are layered with unﬁnished grand projects.” 2. THE NONEXISTENT: “Sandy Island

was a Paciﬁc island, 15 miles long, found on many maps, including Google Maps. But in 2012, scientists tried to visit it and found it didn’t exist. Google had to cut and paste some generic sea over the spot.” 3. THE INACCESSIBLE: “In the center of Newcastle is a deserted triangle of land surrounded by freeways. I hopped over the barriers and made it across. Sometimes, the remotest places are just around the corner.” 4. THE EERIE: “The English village of Arne was evacuated in 1942, and a decoy munitions factory was then built there, designed to fool German bombers. Today it’s a bird sanctuary, but the tranquillity is unnerving: The ponds are bomb craters and wildﬂowers cascade from rusting artillery.” (July 8)

Apocalypse and Soccer Moms Tom Perro a swaps the suburbs for weirder territory Anyone familiar with the work of Tom Perro a—author of Election and Li le Children—would have been taken aback by his 2011 novel, The Le overs. Once called “the Steinbeck of suburbia,” Perro a is known for his astute, off-kilter satires. The Leftovers— which he co-adapted for the new HBO series of the same name—is something else entirely. The story centers on a suburban New York town, three years after 2 percent of the world’s population suddenly and inexplicably vanished. In this sense, it seems to have more in common with “The Walking Dead” than Election. “It is a departure, but I figured I’d write an apocalyptic story that feels

like suburban realism,” Perro a says. “It’s not about people fighting for survival in an obliterated world. It’s about how they cope with something like this, how they explain it to themselves and move on.” How people cope amounts to this: They don’t. For all its thematic complexity, “The Leftovers” is not lacking in tension, menace or—this being Perrotta—sly wit. “One thing I’ve noticed watching the show is how much I laugh,” he says. “It’s a slightly bewildered laugh, the way I used to watch ‘Twin Peaks.’ The weirdness is done in a matter-of-fact way, and there’s an uncomfortable comedy in that, which is something I enjoy.” —CW (Premiered June 29)

House Music This month, the ninth annual Pitchfork Music Festival, an event curated by the inﬂuential music review website of the same name, takes over Chicago’s Union Park. In case you’re stuck at home, we asked Pitchfork’s president, Chris Kaskie, for his essential listening from this year’s lineup. —EB

“Since their inception, Cleveland’s Cloud Nothings have worshiped at the altar of 1990s alt-rock, but they put a personal spin on that era’s guitar crunch. Here and Nowhere Else is their most energetic and intense record, but also their most accessible.”

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Tune-Yards, Nikki Nack (4AD) “Nikki Nack, the third album by Tune-Yards, ﬁnds Merrill Garbus continuing to develop her expansive sound. Incorporating rhythms inspired by a trip to Haiti and her playful feel for melody, her songs address complicated subjects in a highly idiosyncratic way.”

Schoolboy Q, Oxymoron (Interscope) PAUL SCHIRALDI PHOTOGRAPHY ("THE LEFTOVERS")

Cloud Nothings, Here and Nowhere Else (Carpark)

“Schoolboy Q’s known for mixing gri y street tales and songs of reﬂection with unrestrained party jams, and his latest ﬁnds him striking the perfect balance. With songs like ‘What They Want’ and ‘Blind Threats’ beside each other, Oxymoron is a convincing demonstration of this L.A. rapper’s range.”

JULY 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

11/06/2014 09:12

ATTACKING CANCER CELLS, WITHOUT POISONING THE BODY. THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN PRACTICING MEDICINE AND LEADING IT. At Houston Methodist, we take on the greatest challenges in medicine, like revolutionizing the ﬁght against cancer. We’re developing novel methods to deliver concentrated doses of chemotherapy directly to cancerous cells. Which means increasing the impact of treatment while minimizing side effects. For more information call 713.790.3333. houstonmethodist.org/cancer

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03/06/2014 14:26

culture || THE MONTH AHEAD

Film Theory At the risk of sounding cynical, we can’t help but notice that this month’s movies follow a familiar formula: Come up with a theme, cobble together a few elements from similar ﬁlms, and voilà—instant classic! So how do you build a summer blockbuster for 2014? It’s elementary. —JACQUELINE DETWILER

E.T.

CLOVERFIELD

One for the Ages Richard Linklater’s latest tale of growing up took 12 years to ﬁlm

EARTH TO ECHO

If kids these days were to find an alien in a cornfield, you can bet their first impulse would be to whip out their smartphones. But this found footage–style update of the Spielberg original preserves a few elements: the cute alien and the copious suburban bike riding.

CONTAGION

WORLD WAR Z

DAWN OF THE PLANET OF THE APES

For great apes to commandeer the Earth, you need two things: intelligent apes and a virus to wipe out mankind. Better yet, movie scientists could just develop a virus to turn humans into violent, superintelligent chimpanzees. But that hasn’t happened. (Yet.)

GARDEN STATE

THE UP SERIES

WISH I WAS HERE

Zach Braff ’s 20s may be over, but his self-referential period continues unabated. His latest, a comedy about a struggling actor in his 30s trying to make sense of his life, to the beat of a hip indie soundtrack, is practically a documentary.

SPARTACUS

300

BODY BY JAKE

HERCULES

The addition of epic battle scenes and abs elevates this standard summer mythology ﬂick to box office gold status. The Rock may be no Kirk Douglas, but throw in enough CGI hydras and we’ll watch him hoarsely shout “I am Hercules” till the Cretan bulls come home.

“The Homecoming, which had shipped rum, which had shipped the food that fed St. Thomas, shipped the money that ﬂoated Tortola, had been shipping nothing more than a cargo of bones. A ship full of bones and all of it sunk to the shallow sea bottom.” —From Land of Love and Drowning, the new novel by Tiphanie Yanique about three generations of a Caribbean family, from 1916 to the 1970s, set against the emergence of St. Thomas in the modern world. (July 10)

EVERETT COLLECTION (E.T., CLOVERFIELD, SPARTACUS)

RISE OF THE PLANET OF THE APES

Making a movie about childhood involves wading through a mineﬁeld of potential problems: Your actor ages too fast, or doesn’t age at all; his voice changes at the wrong time; or you end up using so many actors to represent the diﬀerent time periods that you run smack into “the other Darrin problem.” This is what makes Boyhood, the latest from director Richard Linklater (Dazed and Confused, Before Sunrise), such an accomplishment. A coming-of-age story in which the main character (and actor) actually comes of age, his parents become old, and the world twists dizzyingly around him is so close to the actual experience of growing up that it spreads your own heart all over the screen. Shot over the course of 12 years as the protagonist—Mason, played by Ellar Coltrane (pictured above)—ages from seven to 18, the movie is as much a history of life in the United States as it is a portrait of Coltrane’s particular childhood. Bring tissues. —JD (July 14)

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THE MONTH AHEAD || culture

FILM Pierce Brosnan stars in the ﬁlm adaptation of Nick Hornby’s suicide comedy A Long Way Down // Espionage thriller A Most Wanted Man, with Robin Wright and the late Philip Seymour Hoffman, “prickles with tension” TV Showtime’s racy egghead drama “Masters of Sex” returns for its second season // CBS’s sci-ﬁ drama “Extant” debuts, with Halle Berry playing a former astronaut readjusting to terrestrial life ART “NYC Makers: The MAD Biennial,” the Museum of Arts and Design’s showcase for the city’s creative communities, opens BOOKS New York Times best-selling author Jojo Moyes produces another summer must-read, the opposites-attract love story One Plus One

LEON NEAL/AFP/GETTY IMAGES (MONTY PYTHON)

A L S O

O U T

T H I S

M O N T H

SNAKES ON A STAGE From left: Michael Palin, Eric Idle, Terry Jones, Terry Gilliam and John Cleese, reunited

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JULY 2014

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The Last Ha-Ha

The Monty Python team prepare to play their final gig. Probably. THE MONTY PYTHON GANG have said goodbye before—their first-ever tour, back in the early 1970s, was titled “The First Farewell Tour,” and there have been a few more since. This month, though, the Pythons are performing a series of shows at London’s 02 Arena that probably will be their last. Not surprisingly, nostalgia will be running high at the shows. “The bulk of it will be old material,” says Terry Gilliam, speaking in a London hotel room along with fellow Pythons John Cleese, Eric Idle, Michael Palin and Terry Jones (Graham Chapman died in 1989). “It’s going to be interesting to see how much more we can add to brighten it up.” It’s been 45 years since the Pythons shook the Eric Idle on artistic differences: “We world with their anarchic BBC sketch show “Monty could say anything we wanted about Python’s Flying Circus.” Back then, says Jones, it each other’s work without someone was relatively easy to get a rise out of the establishgoing out of the room and crying.” ment. “It was so stuffy in those days, in the ’60s. John Cleese on camaraderie: “We’ve The class system had a stranglehold on society.” always enjoyed each other’s company. Today, with the boys in their 70s and the world Which doesn’t mean we don’t disagree a very different place, raising eyebrows is more of about things. We argue all the time.” a challenge. “As a group, we’re not as outrageous Michael Palin on absurdity: “The way as we used to be,” says Gilliam. “That’s why I keep people behave—rather pompously and trying to push it.” self-righteously and assume that they Palin, who these days is more known more for run this, that or the other—you need travel documentaries than for dead parrots, insists silliness. It’s very, very important.” that he’s not totally out of practice when it comes Terry Jones on the origins of to absurdist comedy. “I have two grandsons, and we “Flying Circus”: “We were trying to be got on wonderfully when they were about three original, but really we just thought we years old,” he says. “Their capacity to do the odd, were doing a little show on TV.” the unexpected and the totally da reminded me Terry Gilliam on meeting his of being with the Pythons again.” fellow Pythons: “I was awed by their Later, with the five comedy legends crammed command of the language and their into a car, talk turns once more to the subject of intelligence. But over the years, I’ve ge ing old. “The worst thing,” says Gilliam, “is being realized they’re really stupid about the on the bus or Tube, when a girl in her 20s offers important things in life.” you her seat.” Monty Python Live (mostly), “I thought that was called ‘twerking,’” Idle O2 Arena, July 1–5, 15, 16, 18–20 replies, and the boys erupt into raucous laughter. —MATTHEW STADLEN

11/06/2014 09:13

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FOOD & DRINK

FISH OUT OF WATER Crispy whole triggerﬁsh with charred leeks at Underbelly in Houston

THE OTHER FISH IN THE SEA More and more chefs are pu ing bycatch on the menu

JULIE SOEFER PHOTOGRAPHY

BY GERALDINE CAMPBELL

ABOUT FIVE YEARS AGO, Chris Shepherd— then the chef of the now-shuttered Catalan in Houston—found a business card on his desk for fishmonger PJ Stoops, along with an order sheet for several fish he had never heard of: triggerfish, scorpion fish, almaco jack and longtail sea bass. Curious, he picked up the phone. “I called the guy and he said, ‘This is all the stuff in the gulf,’” says Shepherd, who is now executive chef at Underbelly. “And then he just started bringing me fish. Groupers and snappers, of course, but then a lot of other li le things I’d just never seen.” Called “bycatch” or “trash fish,” these species are usually pulled up when commercial fishermen are looking for something else.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JULY 2014

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The average shrimp trawler’s haul, for instance, is only 16 percent shrimp. The rest, made of some 50 common species including squid, snails and sea pansies, is typically dumped back in the ocean, dead or alive. Stoops didn’t start selling trash fish to be trendy, although in the five years since he started his business out of the back of his truck, bycatch has become something of a foodie catchphrase, along the lines of “farm-to-table” and “nose-to-tail.” Instead, he claims to have gotten into the business on a whim. In the Gulf of Mexico, in addition to o -sought fish like grouper and snapper, you’ll find roughly 1,445 species of finfish—almost all of which are

edible. “I went into bycatch not knowing that much about it other than that I could make more money,” he says. Stoops’ gamble worked: Shepherd, who earlier this year brought home Houston’s ﬁrst James Beard Award in 22 years, most days has some form of bycatch on his menu, served whole and fried. Mesquitesmoked bycaught mackerel with cane syrup, cabbage, mustards and pickles was on a recent menu at Justin Yu’s Oxheart in Houston. Brian Landry, the chef at Borgne in New Orleans, serves freshwater drum with brown bu er, pecans and jumbo lump crab. And at The John Dory Oyster Bar in New York, chef Charlene Santiago has had whelks, or sea snails, with

04/06/2014 15:30

culture || FOOD & DRINK

SHELL GAME Fresh whelks at The John Dory Oyster Bar

THE BIG STEEP Tea cocktails branch out Adding a li le black or Earl Grey tea to a cocktail has been popular for a few years now, but only recently have bartenders explored the full range of possibilities: infusing the stuff directly into spirits, brewing and stirring it in or freezing it into cubes. “Tea opens up so many doors to different flavor profiles,” says Nick Kosevich, co-owner of Bi ercube, a mixology consulting company that also makes bi ers. “You can make the same cocktail a hundred different ways by using different teas.” Here, Kosevich and his business partner Ira Koplowitz tell us how to make the Tea ’n’ T, a play on the gin and tonic they developed for Eat Street Social in Minneapolis. Recently, they’ve taken to altering the cocktail with the seasons, switching in chai, smoked Earl Grey and even a sugarplum tea for the holidays. Kosevich and Koplowitz use Bingley’s teas, but you can use any brand. —JEANETTE HURT

COURTESY OF THE JOHN DORY OYSTER BAR (WHELKS); COURTESY OF BITTERCUBE (TEA COCKTAIL)

garlic and parsley butter on the menu since the restaurant opened in 2010. In theory, less popular fish becoming trendy is a good thing. Eating bycatch, like eating offal, is about avoiding waste. But in fact, most of the fish that Stoops sells are eaten regularly in other parts of the world. Almaco jack, a cousin to amberjack, is known as kanpachi in Japan, where it is standard on sushi menus. Triggerfish, a light, flaky fish that tastes like crab meat, is a staple in Florida fish shacks. But, says Stoops, a potential danger is that the majority of these fish are not regulated by government agencies—and that not all chefs (or fishermen) are focused on sustainability. “Monkfish went from being abundant to endangered. And in Mexico, they fished out a species of whelk because they targeted them during spawning,” he says. Still, by serving bycatch, restaurants can make an important contribution to conservation—even though there is progress yet to be made. “In an ideal world, fishermen would not be able to throw things back,” says Stoops. “That’s when bycatch would really mean something.”

HALF IN THE BAG The Tea ’n’ T at Eat Street Social

Tea ’n’ T BOARDING PASS Bounty from the Gulf of Mexico comprises only a small part of the wide variety of cuisines available in Houston’s restaurants. United’s hub in Houston enjoys nonstop flights from scores of cities around the globe. Every weekend, United has specials on flights, hotels and car rentals from dozens of destinations. To learn more about United specials or to book a flight, visit united.com.

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› 1 Tbsp. plus ¼ tsp. green apple ﬁg tea › ¼ tsp. plus tsp. smoked black tea › 750 ml bottle Broker’s gin › ¼ oz. fresh lime juice

› ¾ oz. Tomr’s tonic (or any tonic water) › 2 dashes Bittercube Bolivar bitters › 4 oz. seltzer

To infuse the gin, combine tea leaves and gin in a pitcher and stir intermittently for 15 minutes. Strain using a tea strainer and place back in bottle. Combine 2 oz. of the infused gin with all ingredients, except for seltzer, in cocktail shaker with ice. Shake. Add seltzer, then strain into a collins glass ﬁlled with fresh ice. Garnish with lime wedge.

JULY 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

04/06/2014 15:30

“A magnificent location for uniquely-inspiring luxury retreats.” Forbes Travel Guide

Voted “Best Luxury Hideaway Resort” by World Luxury Hotel Awards

No.37857_Gateway_Canyons_Resort 1pp.indd 1

27/05/2014 16:49

culture || FOOD & DRINK

PATRON OF THE TARTS A wine drinker cozies up to the new sour beer trend By Jolyon Helterman SOUR POWER A cherry sour beer from the Coors Hidden Barrel Collection

PICTURE TK I WAS RECENTLY four-deep in the crowd at Row 34, Boston’s new seafood haven, nearly spraining an eyebrow in an effort to engage the world-weary barman. Finally: “A ZURE VAN TILDONK, PLEASE!” I megaphoned above the din, indicating a Belgian sour ale I’d heard raves about. It was, apparently, the right request. “I just love this one,” the bartender said, beaming and suddenly energized. “Such beautiful apricot notes! Man, I love it when sourheads come in!” For the rest of the evening, my new sour-ale buddy carefully monitored my every penultimate sip, eager to resume leading me through the menu of sour beers. I didn’t have the heart to tell him I’m usually a wine guy. This is the beauty of sour beer, a category that’s hundreds of years old but has only recently bubbled up to rival IPAs and Saisons as reigning king of cra suds. The four major styles—lambics, gueuzes, goses and Flanders reds—are a racting a new fan base among my fellow wine drinkers, who are discovering that the tart fruit flavors pair with food with the same subtlety and thirst-quenching brightness as a high-toned vouvray. For beer geeks, sours’ unique brewing process—inoculating the mash with wild yeast and bacteria and leaving it to ferment in open barrels—adds an appealing wildcard factor, as does the final step, in which beermasters combine other batches and sometimes fruit juices to get the flavor profile just so. “That blending aspect is such an important part of the final product,” says Megan Parker-Gray, Row 34’s beverage director. “It’s a real art form.”

Cream of the Crop For the septuagenarian owner of a gelato shop, the best desserts come straight from the farm PHOTO BY OSCAR DURAND

FOR 52 YEARS, Carlos Casassa, the owner of La Fiorentina

Gelateria in Lima, Peru, tended grape vines and produced pisco and table wine at his father’s 90-acre farm and vineyard. Throughout those years, he dreamed of the day he’d be able to relive his childhood, when he helped his mom make small batches of ice cream in her bakery. “I wanted my own gelato shop,” he says. Finally, in 2009, when he was 72 years old, he got it. He sold the family farm to provide the capital and opened his compact establishment across the street from Surquillo Market, a farmers market where the city’s top chefs source their produce. Given the location, and Casassa’s lifetime of farming, it was

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CREAM OF VEGETABLE Casassa in his shop; aji amarillo (left) and camu-camu (right) gelato

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natural that the gelateria became what it is—quite possibly the best place in Peru to taste the bounty of the country’s horticulture and agriculture in ice cream form. The 55 curious ﬂavors on offer include an earthy porcini mushroom; a grassy avocado; a bright, berry-flavored Amazonian fruit called camu-camu; lucuma, which tastes like a sweet potato topped with maple syrup; creamy tropical custard apple; and yellow pepper, which is as citrusy as it is spicy. “I like creating unusual ﬂavors; it’s a challenge to get the perfect balance,” says Casassa. “We have a lot of delicious fruits here in Peru, and I prefer to give the local farmers work.” —JEANINE BARONE

MINNEAPOLIS, MN 612.339.9900 PROPRIETORS: Phil Roberts, Peter Mihajlov

& Kevin Kuester

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RingSide Steakhouse RingSideSteakhouse.com

Grill 225

PORTLAND, OR 503.223.1513

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CHARLESTON, SC 843.266.4222

PROPRIETORS: Jan, Scott & Craig Peterson

PROPRIETOR: Nick Palassis EXECUTIVE CHEF: Demetre Castanas

Gene & Georgetti geneandgeorgetti.com

Benjamin Steak House benjaminsteakhouse.com

NEW YORK, NY 212.297.9177

CHICAGO, IL 312.527.3718 PROPRIETORS: Tony & Marion Durpetti

PROPRIETOR: Benjamin Prelvukaj CHEF: Arturo McLeod

INDEPENDENTLY OWNED & OPERATED

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JULY 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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11/06/2014 09:14

GREAT SUMMER RATES Be one of the ﬁrst to experience the reimagined Broadmoor West with rates starting at $185 per person per night* or save 15% on your stay at Cloud Camp or The Ranch at Emerald Valley through 2014. *Based on double occupancy.

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Make yours a boundless summer. Enjoy superb accommodations, three exquisite new restaurants—Ristorante del Lago, Natural Epicurean, and Play—exciting entertainment and more at our main resort and the magniﬁ cently reimagined Broadmoor West, or escape to the Colorado wilderness with The Broadmoor Wilderness Experience while enjoying the luxury, elegance and superior service upon which we built our reputation. Stay on the lake at our main property, in the pines at The Ranch at Emerald Valley, or 3,000 feet above The Broadmoor at Cloud Camp. Each one provides an experience entirely its own—an experience you will only ﬁnd at The Broadmoor. Visit broadmoor.com to book your stay today.

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11/06/2014 10:29

STAY

THIS MONTH’S HOTTEST HOTELS

THE HORNED DORSET PRIMAVERA, RINCÓN PUERTO RICO

WHAT YOU’LL FIND JUST OUTSIDE: The hotel sits 10 minutes south of Rincón, one of the great surﬁng destinations of the Caribbean. A host of down-home tiki bars, surfing schools, yoga studios and sundry shacks along the shore oﬀset the resort’s incessant pampering—not that you’ll be complaining, of course.

HOT DISH: At dawn, local lobstermen head out to catch your dinner. At night, chefs at the tile-and-terraco a Restaurant Aaron will grill lobster tails and smother them in bu er and herbs, then set them on a bed of home fries with sautéed pearl onions and asparagus. The only way to feel closer to the sea is to be in it.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JULY 2014

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LOBBY RESEMBLES: The alfresco Spanish Colonial lobby has twin staircases in the style of old sugarcane plantations. The lobby’s columns, tiling, fountain, sconces and wicker furniture are straight out of the 1800s (the seawall upon which the hotel stands, in fact, was built for a 19th-century sugarcane train).

BEST PLACE TO HANG OUT: You are never going to want to leave your room, what with the ocean view, ﬁve-star service and plunge pool. Peep-proof patio walls make the suite feel like a private palace. There really is no need to go anywhere else—or even wear clothes. The hotel veranda, while dressier, is also nice.

04/06/2014 15:34

culture || STAY MEXICO WHAT YOU’LL FIND JUST OUTSIDE: Located on Lee Circle in the artsy Warehouse District, the Modern is surrounded by galleries and restaurants. Hop on the retro St. Charles streetcar and, for less than the cost of a cup of coﬀee, you’ll be trundled past some of the city’s lovelier sights. Or, a 20-minute stroll will have you sallying down Bourbon Street, frozen daiquiri in hand.

Nizuc Resort & Spa, Cancún

DESIGN NOTES: When German hotelier Klaus Ortlieb opened the Modern (formerly Hotel Le Cirque) in 2011, he aimed for a style that reﬂected the quirky eclecticism of New Orleans. Much of the artwork came from local junk shops, creating a look that ranges from elegant to garish, but never boring. LOBBY RESEMBLES: Like the rest of the hotel, the lobby combines mock formality with a genuine commitment to comfort and hospitality: dim lighting, plush couches, a large painting of a man in a long blue wig (the Duc d’Orléans), a shelf of ta ered old books and a parrot named Miss Scarlet. (“Her nickname is Birdzilla,” says one of the strikingly dapper concierges.) BEST PLACE TO HANG OUT: Named a er New Orleans photographer E.J. Bellocq, the hotel’s Bellocq lounge has a decadent air to it. Flop into a plump armchair, admire the blood-red decor and sip a faithful recreation of pre-Prohibition cocktails like the Sazerac, or an original creation like the Summer Is Coming, with mezcal, ruby grapefruit and Bi ermens Hellﬁre.

BACKSTORY: Nestled on the pristine shore of Punta Nizuc, this former Mexican presidential retreat was meticulously restored and reopened last year as an elegant, secluded 29-acre resort. During construction, mangroves were carefully uprooted and sheltered in an on-site greenhouse, then painstakingly replanted around the resort, where they quickly returned to their original lush glory. DESIGN NOTES: Guests are welcomed into a soaring open-air lobby overlooking a mangrove-do ed reflecting pond. Water flows throughout the resort, which employs dri wood and slate to heighten the Zen-meets-Mayan aesthetic. The architecture throughout ensures guests never miss a glimpse of the surrounding beauty. ROOM WITH A VIEW: It’s hard to find a room without an ocean view at this 274-suite resort. Those looking for absolute privacy can stay in one of the garden villas, enclosed hideaways with alfresco dining tables and private plunge pools. Or withdraw to the opulent bathroom, where a butler will draw you a petal-strewn bubble bath in a double-occupancy soaking tub.

Hotel Modern, New Orleans

WHAT YOU’LL FIND RIGHT OUTSIDE: Just to the north of the resort, off the coast of Isla de Mujeres, you’ll find MUSA (Museo Subacuático de Arte), an underwater museum of contemporary art containing more than 500 startlingly lifelike figures affixed to the seafloor. One memorable piece depicts a man si ing before a television set while coral creeps across his face. Not to be missed.

LOUISIANA

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JULY 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

11/06/2014 09:16

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10/06/2014 09:03

culture || STAY SRI LANKA

Taprobane Island

DESIGN NOTES: This property, which opened in 2005, blew much of its $94 million building cost on its lineup of architects. Twelve of the biggest names in the game—Norman Foster and Zaha Hadid among them—were given a floor apiece to do their thing, with France’s Jean Nouvel designing floor 12, the facade and the penthouse. The result is an extraordinary theme park for design geeks: futuristic, overwhelmingly white suites; jagged hall-of-mirror walls; folksy-florid murals; 2001: A Space Odyssey hallways and “Jetsons” couches. Wow. HOT DISH: At Lágrimas Negras (“Black Tears”), chef Juan Carlos Delle Vedove prepares a red wine– stewed bull’s tail, “Rabo Guisado,” that’ll have you regressing a million years. The first hunks of meat fall away from the bone almost as soon as you look at it. By the time there’s more bone than meat, you’ll find yourself gnawing away as if you were si ing in a cave rather than designer Christian Liaigre’s elegantly imposing restaurant.

WHAT YOU’LL FIND JUST OUTSIDE: A two-anda-half-acre speck of foliage just oﬀ Sri Lanka’s south coast, Taprobane is close enough to the mainland that guests can wade ashore, although some opt to make the 200-yard journey by elephant. You’re only about 15 miles from the 16th-century Portuguese enclave (and UNESCO World Heritage Site) Galle Fort, and you don’t have to wander too far to ﬁnd a Buddhist temple, rain forest or beach bar, either.

IDEAL GUEST: Superﬁcially, Puerta América guests might seem a li le intimidating, with their rollneck sweaters and habit of using words like “cozy” as though it’s a terrible insult. Underneath that sharp exterior, though, they’re just endearingly passionate about architecture. Buy them a martini in Jean Nouvel’s red-tinged SkyNight Bar, which looks out over the Madrid skyline, and they’ll explain exactly why this is the coolest place in the world.

BACKSTORY: The property was originally built by an eccentric Frenchman in the 1920s, on what was then known as Cobra Island (locals used it as a dumping spot for venomous snakes). A favored destination for a string of artsy types a er World War II, Taprobane was sold to American writer Paul Bowles for 5,000 British pounds in 1951 a er its owner racked up gambling debts. Bowles wrote about the island, as did Arthur C. Clarke, who visited it during Bowles’ tenure. DESIGN NOTES: Taprobane’s five-bedroom neo-palladian house, with its cool white terrazzo floors and high wooden ceilings, is surrounded by tropical gardens. Its abundance of flora-filled terraces blurs the line between interior and exterior, while its four-poster, mosquito-ne ed beds ensure that the illusion isn’t taken too far.

Silken Puerta América, Madrid SPAIN

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JULY 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

11/06/2014 09:16

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No.37625 Maurice Lacroix.indd 1

10/03/2014 13:49

culture || TRAVEL ESSAY

THE AGE OF REASON AS A YOUNG ADULT, I SPENT MY TRAVELS COMPOSING ELEGIES TO FALLEN LEAVES; TODAY, I’M MORE CONCERNED WITH WHETHER THE PERSON NEXT TO ME IS HOGGING THE ARMREST BY CHRIS WRIGHT

IT WAS S EARLY morning, late fall. I was sm mokin cigarettes on the deck of an mok smoking ov vern ernig ferry from Stockholm to Helovernight sin nki, on my way to liaise with a Finnish nki, sinki, wo oman who played keyboards in a band oma woman th hat, at, as I remember it, had a name like that, Cr Crypti yptic Binge. I would have been in my Cryptic early 20s 20 at the time, a point in my life

when the entire world seemed to have been constructed to serve as a backdrop to the ever-interesting Story of Chris. And what a backdrop this ferry ride was shaping up to be. As the sun ﬂushed over the horizon, the countless tiny islands we’d been dri ing among were revealed in increments:

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JULY 2014 • ILLUSTRATION BY JAMES FRYER

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TRAVEL ESSAY || culture shadowy lumps, yellowish blurs, swaths of golden scrub. It was a vision of such glorious desolation, I felt obliged to write a poem—which, inexplicably, ended up being about nuclear war. As for the content of the piece, the opening verse should suffice: I hear you sing, but the thunderclap pushes your voice from my mind. I see you dance, but the lightning flashes (flashes!) flashes for a second I’m blind.

That parenthetical “flashes!” was intended to be whispered by a sort of backing poet, creating an overlapping vocal tapestry of existential futility. That’s how it was with me then— wherever I went, I took my journal with me, unflaggingly eager to compose an elegy to a fallen leaf or an ode to the beauty of a cornflake. And God forbid I should find myself in the presence of something genuinely inspiring—say, a painting—which would inevitably unleash a torrent of verse featuring insensate eyes that somehow see so much more than my own. Travel was a problematic undertaking for me. Once, on a windy day in St. Petersburg, I followed a discarded plastic bag for about three miles, convinced it had something to tell the world about the illusion of free will. Another time, I spent an entire a ernoon staring at a statue of George Washington in the Boston Public Garden, an exercise that resulted in a stirring political piece titled “The Colonial Heart.” As for the weeping hillsides of England’s Lake District, the less said about those the be er. But there is more. So bountiful were my insights into the true nature of things back then, they tended to overflow in the course of normal conversation. I remember being in a bar in San Francisco once and asking an a ractive young woman if she thought it ironic that we humans pride ourselves on our ability to reason, and yet there we were, dulling our intellect with alcohol and empty chatter. “I don’t know,” the woman replied, lining up a pool shot. “I’ve never thought about it that pretentiously before.” Things are different now. I’m a middleaged man. When I travel these days, my mind is far more likely to be occupied by

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the question of whether the person next to me is monopolizing the armrest than it is trying to find a suitable rhyme for “boarding pass.” It’s not so strange to me now that the rational animal blurs his mind with booze; it’s strange that he’s prepared to pay seven bucks a pop to do so. As for that wind-swept Baltic ferry— well, that’s a chest cold waiting to happen. And this, of course, is how it should be. People my age aren’t supposed to indulge in melodrama, egotism and brutally tortured metaphors. We’re supposed to buckle down, get on with it. Check the pocket for the passport before we leave, make sure we see all the important bits when we arrive. Step over the trash. Photograph the statue. Call for a taxi. Fly home. We do not gyrate our increasingly bri le hips at all-night dance parties, and we do not search ticket stubs for clues about the human condition. If it were otherwise, the human race would have expired long ago, succumbing to a combination of embarrassment and boredom. Which brings us back (old habits die hard) to me. I still have that old journal somewhere. I haven’t wri en in it for decades, but I did flick through it a while back, wincing at some parts, smiling at others. For all the buffoonery and bluster in its pages, there were passages that made me wonder what I might have lost in the process of growing up. It seems kind of wonderful now that a plastic bag “snagged by a passing breeze” should have stayed with me for all these years. And I like the idea that I built a story for that bag in a dank Russian backstreet while others stood frowning before classical porticos, wondering if the columns supporting them were Doric or Ionic or what. Therein lies the trade-off. Where once a journey might have brought on a swirl of impressions and emotions, fantasies and false memories, today I am more like those frowning column-watchers, intent on knowing the world to the extent that I sometimes forget to be in it. Ask me about the places I have visited over the last decade, and I will provide you with a thorough inventory; ask me what I felt while I was there, and I’ll probably have to make something up.

Hemispheres executive editor CHRIS WRIGHT is not always so sentimental.

JULY 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

11/06/2014 09:18

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08/04/2014 15:36

AUTO-TATION FLORENCE/FERRARI FF

PRICE: $295,000

ITALIAN RED A family ride through Italian wine country in a Ferrari FF BY JAMES WILLIAMS

EXTERIOR Italians love their Ferraris as much as they love their art and wine. We decided to sample all three on a drive from Bologna to the vineyards of Chianti, via Florence. The FF’s hunched “shooting-brake” body turned plenty of heads along the way—a er all, a four-seater hatchback Ferrari is a rare sight.

TRUNK FF stands for “Ferrari Four” (as in four wheel drive) but it could easily be “family friendly.” Racer dads won’t have to sell those hot wheels when the kids arrive, as you could easily squeeze a baby carriage in the trunk. In our case, it just meant we could easily stow some of Tuscany’s famous red wines.

ENGINE

HANDLING

The Autostrada is the perfect road for opening up the 660 bhp V12 engine. Top speed is 208 mph, and 0–60 takes just 3.7 seconds, so in a ﬂash we were turning onto the S65, part of the old Mille Miglia rally route that crosses the Apennines. By lunchtime we were able to glimpse Florence’s domes through the treetops.

INTERIOR

A er touring the Uﬃzi Gallery, we continued south into wine country. The unpredictable roads really put the FF through its paces, and Ferrari’s 4RM system outshone other 4WDs, delivering maximum torque to each individual wheel, which, in addition to sporty and agile cornering, oﬀered a high level of safety.

STEERING WHEEL

Florence’s tailors would approve of the leather interior by Poltrona Frau. But you can also get seats made of material similar to that worn by Enzo Ferrari himself. The large windows (rare for a sports car) helped us enjoy views of the Ponte Vecchio. For the kids, who could care less, there are tablets in the seatbacks.

The controls on the steering wheel include a switch for ice, wet, comfort and sport se ings. Most important, the paddle shi s mean you never have to take your hands oﬀ the wheel. Another fun touch: LEDs that illuminate when you accelerate, as we found when we overtook a rusty old Fiat on a country lane.

DASHBOARD When we stopped at Greve in Chianti, a pre y town with bars serving local wine, we were grateful for the rear-mounted camera display: When you’re parking a $295,000 automobile, you’ll take all the help you can get. Another nice touch: the slim LCD screen on the passenger side, displaying revs, speed and the trip log.

EXHAUST Before we headed home, a crowd gathered around the FF, and it was clear they were waiting for something. So we gave it to them, ﬁring up the two pairs of pipes and sounding the note Ferrari’s engineers worked so hard to achieve. By the looks on their faces, it was as if Pavaro i himself had just sounded oﬀ.

Florence, the Tuscan wine country and Ferrari’s Maranello factory are easy road trips for visitors to Milan, Italy. United ﬂies BOARDING PASS there nonstop from its hub in New York/Newark. To tailor your trip especially for you, United offers special options, such as Farelock®, Award Accelerator® or hotel and transportation arrival options. For more information on travel products or to book a ﬂight, visit united.com.

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ILLUSTRATION BY BRETT AFFRUNTI • JULY 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

11/06/2014 09:19

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06/02/2014 10:48

wear in ... Amsterdam

SVEN SIGNE DEN HARTOGH He may call himself a university dropout, but this 21-year-old Dutchman is well educated in denim. As founder of The Stranded Sailors, an online lifestyle destination and community for jean fanatics, den Hartogh has strong opinions about how to wear your favorite pair. INTERVIEW BY SARA LIEBERMAN PHOTOGRAPHY BY KEVIN VAN DIEST

Tell us about Amsterdam style. It’s a cool style, but very common. You can see the trends in a ma er of seconds, like Nike runners and Dr. Martens.

So where in Amsterdam do you shop? A lot of secondhand stores, like Episode in the 9 Streets area.

Why denim? Because it’s for everyone! It really is a global product. I also really love that it ages over time and starts to fade. You can create your own personal story in the jean.

How many pairs do you own? I’ve got, like, 20! For two years, I worked in the oldest jean store in the Netherlands, De Rode Winkel. These days, the pair I’m wearing the most are my Levi’s 510s. I’ve been wearing them every day for 14 months.

You’ve got a lot of tattoos. How many are there? I have no clue. I lost count! My ﬁrst were Asian signs that symbolized my grandfather’s willpower. The most recent one is a small anchor beneath my le eye.

Ouch. Can you take us through the outﬁt you’re wearing right now? I like the combination of light blue denim with indigo pants, so I’m wearing Levi’s 501 jeans with a Lee 101 denim shirt and Lee sleeveless denim jacket. I wear a lot of [mixed] denim, usually with bandannas and scarves and a waistcoat for a gentleman touch. These are Red Wing boots. I like to invest once in good shoes that I can wear for 10 years, and I can wear these 24/7. This style is called “Iron Ranger Amber Harness.”

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JULY 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

04/06/2014 15:42

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the fan

For a small band of British greenskeepers, the Tour de France’s arrival in England spells nothing but trouble BY THOMAS PATTERSON

EVERY JULY, like the turning of a tire on a trusty Schwinn, the grand fromage of the sporting calendar comes around: 198 gangly cyclists with sweaty brows and meaty thighs grimly pedaling onward, eyes on the fame and euros that come with a victory in the Tour de France—the only bike race that anyone can actually name. Across France they go, cycling through such charmingly

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named hamlets as Maubourget Pays du Val d’Adour, La Planche des Belles Filles, and Nancy—and, as has become semi-regular custom, this year they also travel outside France, to places that don’t sound like dancers at the Moulin Rouge. Since 1954, when Amsterdam took the honors, the Tour de France has intermittently kicked oﬀ beyond France’s borders, and for this year’s race, cities

ILLUSTRATION BY WESLEY MERRITT • JULY 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

04/06/2014 15:43

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such as Edinburgh, Berlin and Florence fought for the prestige and tourist bucks that Le Grand Départ brings. So who won it? Was it Edinburgh, with its gothic spires, or Florence, with its Renaissance palazzos? It was neither. In fact, the place chosen to host the 2014 Grand Départ was … Yorkshire? Yorkshire, a county in the northeast of England, is famous for many things— windswept moors, Def Leppard, Yorkshire pudding—but hosting prestigious international sporting events is not one of them. As Gary Verity, chief executive of Welcome to Yorkshire, and a key player in bringing Le Tour to England, points out, “Nothing ever has happened in Yorkshire that’s as big as the Tour de France Grand Départ, and nothing in my lifetime will probably ever happen in Yorkshire to match it.” Seeing as one of the annual highlights in the Yorkshire sporting calendar is the World Coal Carrying Championship, in which competitors lug a hundredweight of, yes, coal up the main street of the town of Osse , he may have a point. Verity anticipates that 2 million spectators will line up in the usually sleepy Yorkshire Dales on Day One alone, and the excitement in the county is palpable.

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“Just cycle around the route now,” Verity says, “and you’ll see yellow bikes hanging up in shop windows. In town centers you’ll see banners. There’s a huge excitement and a passion for it.” Andrew Denton, head of media for the Grand Départ, adds, “The Cragg Vale Community Association have tasked themselves with breaking the world record for bunting.” Yet it’s not all enthusiasm and local ladies knitting their way to Guinness World Record glory up Yorkshire way. A startling controversy has also emerged, one that’s rather different from Le Tour’s scandals of yesteryear, like its doping hysterias, race-fixing allegations or that time in 1904 when one of the entrants slightly cheated by using a car. This year, a small band of protesters has emerged with a target they consider even more dangerous than Lance Armstrong’s steroid habit: the need to keep the encroaching hordes, with their pelotons and porta-po ies, off Yorkshire’s open grasslands. It’s an issue that has bi erly divided the community and has even reached the upper echelons of the British government. When it comes to open grassland in Yorkshire, c’est la guerre! The 200-acre grassland, or “Stray,” as the locals call it, in the town of Harrogate is at

“Let us hope that the suspension of [the Harrogate Stray Act] does not result in a Tour de Farce.” the heart of this ba le. As the center of operations for Le Tour’s Yorkshire ﬁnale, 48 acres of the Stray will be taken up with trucks, bikes, helicopters, temporary accommodations, grandstands, kiosks and 300 toilets. A ruling from 1985 called the Harrogate Stray Act, however, limits events on the Stray to no more than 8.5 acres, and some locals planned to invoke this law to keep the event at bay. In order to override such obstruction, however, the Conservative cabinet minister Eric Pickles passed emergency legislation to suspend the Stray Act—the first time such powers have ever been used. Some

OCTOBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

10/06/2014 16:46

THE FAN || culture locals are understandably up in arms at this tyranny, with even Verity admi ing, “Yes, some people say, ‘What do we want a crowd for?’” Leading the protest is an organization called the Stray Defence Association, aka the SDA. With an acronym that sounds more like a paramilitary group than a band of respectable townsfolk, the SDA’s sole aim is to protect the Stray from “encroachment from all quarters and uphold the Act granting freedom of the Stray to all people for all time.” The arrival of Le Tour and its millions of fans is no doubt the biggest ba le these local activists have faced since their group’s formation, in 1933. And how have they waged this war, with the Harrogate Stray Act temporarily revoked? With a delightfully English and oh-so-polite le er-writing campaign. As SDA spokeswoman Judy d’A rcy Thompson protested in a dispatch to the editor of local newspaper The Harrogate Advertiser, “The Stray belongs to the people of Harrogate and its importance to the town is immeasurable. Let us hope that the suspension of its legal protection does not result in a Tour de Farce.” Unfortunately, a empts to contact the SDA were to no avail, emails and le ers

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JANUARY 2014

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going unanswered, their phone disconnected. Perhaps, like a true revolutionary force, they’ve gone underground (or, more likely, they’ve been forced to retreat by equally passionate Tour supporters in Yorkshire). Still, anti-Tour sentiment continues to spread across Yorkshire, and even if the SDA have retreated into the shadows, others in Yorkshire have taken up the cause. Christopher Caine is another protester, from neighboring York, who is fighting the power with a disapproving le er-writing campaign of his own. As Caine points out, “Nobody in Yorkshire is against the Tour per se, and we understand the benefits it’s going to bring to our part of the world. But the Stray is an important part of our heritage, and they are riding roughshod all over it. Literally!” Of course, this is not the first time Le Tour has incurred protests. Even the first Tour, in 1903, raised the anger of disgruntled locals, who threw tacks in front of the invading riders. Since then, Le Tour has been disrupted for all manner of reasons: anti-globalizationists briefly stopped the race in 2003; Basque separatists a empted the same in 2007; anti-gay-marriage protesters flanked the

route in a bid for publicity in 2013; and proindependence Corsicans have been scaring Le Tour away from their island for years. Now, the genteel protectors of Yorkshire grasslands can count themselves part of this rebellious history. Harrogate Borough Council, meanwhile, has tried to extend an olive branch to opponents, stating, “The council is keen to stress that as custodians of the Stray … the land will be well looked a er and will be fully reinstated (if necessary) a er the Tour has taken place.” Grand Départ spokesman Denton agrees, saying, “When the race comes I think [the protesters] will appreciate what it’s bringing to Harrogate, and we’ll leave the Stray as we found it.” Some, however, remain unconvinced. “We’ll see if it’s true when the Tour’s been and gone,” says Caine. “We’re talking about a massive impact on the local environment, and I honestly don’t see how the Stray is going to remain unaﬀected by it. And if it is aﬀected, I’m going to send the council another bloody le er.” THOMAS PATTERSON is a British film and TV writer who much prefers Bimmers to bikes.

10/06/2014 16:47

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19/12/2013 15:11

INNOVATION BUSINESS GADGETRY

HOW IT’S DONE

HIDING FROM MOSQUITOES IN PLAIN SIGHT You could call mosquitoes the scourge of the earth: They transmit some of the nastiest diseases known to man, including malaria, which kills hundreds of thousands of people a year. To protect themselves in at-risk areas, travelers and locals alike coat themselves in toxic DEET-based sprays, or take pills and shots that can have side effects. Anandasankar Ray, an entomology professor at UC Riverside, worked with an innovation company called ieCrowd to develop a be er way. Mosquitoes normally sniff us out by detecting the plumes of carbon dioxide we exhale; Ray learned that some natural smells can shut down the bugs’ carbon dioxide receptors, effectively rendering humans invisible to the pests. So to keep potential targets (that would be you and me) surrounded at all times by an invisibility cloak so effective it would make Harry Po er jealous, they developed colorful stickers called Kite Patches that stick to T-shirts. Here’s how they did it. —BY LINA ZELDOVICH

1 In his research, Ray noticed that mosquitoes dislike diacetyl—a byproduct of yeast fermentation that’s present in beer and wine. When airborne, diacetyl can block the bugs’ carbon dioxide detectors. Unfortunately, it smells like rancid butter, so Ray combed through thousands of FDA-approved food additives and odorants to ﬁnd compounds that worked the same way but didn’t stink.

2 To test the compounds, Ray used a microscope to place tiny electrodes in the carbon dioxide receptors in mosquitoes’ “noses.” Then he exposed them to the test smells. The electrical signals, which are similar to those in electrocardiograms, showed that the smells incapacitated the receptors. Ray sent his ﬁndings to ieCrowd, which would ﬁgure out how to add the compounds to stickers.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JULY 2014 • ILLUSTRATION BY JAMES PROVOST

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3 Next, ieCrowd tested the stickers in chambers the size of small buildings—big enough to accommodate mock huts where patch-wearers sat surrounded by hundreds of pests. The tests worked: When the mosquitoes approached people wearing patches, they became confused and zipped away. Now, ieCrowd is preparing to test the patches in Uganda, where malaria is a major problem.

04/06/2014 15:43

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05/06/2014 14:42

INDUSTRY

TOKYO RISING

Japanese retailers are currently blazing a trail across the United States, causing some to ask: What do they have that we don’t? BY BOYD FARROW

AS ANYONE WHO has visited even the in precise, color-coded towers. The time

teeniest Tokyo noodle bar can a est, the Japanese take the quest for perfection— or kaizen—pre y seriously. To see this tradition a li le closer to home, and on a much larger scale, you need only visit Uniqlo, on Fi h Avenue in New York City. Inside this 90,000-square -foot emporium—the retailer’s largest outlet anywhere—even humble T-shirts must obtain the approval of takumi, or textile “masters,” before they are stacked

shoppers wait at cash registers is strictly monitored. Cashiers hand back credit cards Japanese-style, using both hands and making full eye contact. Each day, notebook-toting “sales advisers” recite customer service mantras before the doors open. Uniqlo, founded in Yamaguchi, is unquestionably this decade’s standout retailer. By oﬀering basics in more tailored ﬁts than its rivals, and in

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JULY 2014 • ILLUSTRATION BY SEBASTIEN THIBAULT

p057-059_HEM0714_Industry.indd 57

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BRIGHT IDEAS || INDUSTRY

Anguilla: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+264-497-2656 Antigua: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+268-462-9532 Argentina . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4816-8001 Aruba: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+297-583-4832 Bahamas: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+242-377-8300 Barbados: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+246-416-4456 Belize: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+501-207-1271 Brazil: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+55-92-3584-1293 Chile: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+56-2-2232-5892 Costa Rica: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+506-2257-3434 Curacao: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+599-9461-3089 Dominican Republic: . . . . . . . . .+809-333-4000 Ecuador . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+5932-2-228-688 El Salvador: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+503-2263-7799 French Guiana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0590-892803 Grand Cayman: . . . . . . . . . . . . .1-866-478-3421 Guadeloupe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0590-892803 Guatemala: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+502-2277-9070 Honduras: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+504-234-3183 Jamaica: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+876-952-1126 Martinique . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0590-892803 Mexico: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+52-33-3122-5551 Nicaragua: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+505-2255-7981 Panama: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+507-204-9555 Paraguay . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .(595)-21-5197310 Peru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .(1) 447-7118 Puerto Rico: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+787-253-2525 St. Barts . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0590 52 34 06 St. Kitts: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+869-465-2991 St. Lucia: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+758-451-6150 St. Maarten: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+599-545-2393 St. Thomas: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+340-776-1500 Tobago: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+868-639-8507 Trinidad: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+868-669-0602 Turks & Caicos: . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+649-946-4475 Uruguay: . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .+598-2481-8170 Worldwide Reservations: . . . . .1-800-367-2277

more permutations (polo shirts come in 80 colors), the chain outsold Gap last year and is closing in on H&M and Zara. Going forward, its parent company, Fast Retailing, plans to open 20 to 30 stores a year in America, part of a bid to make Uniqlo the world’s No. 1 clothing retailer by 2020. Also expanding in the U.S. is Muji, which embraces Japan’s obsession with pared-back style to the point that it makes the Amish look like the Village People. This lifestyle “anti-brand,” with its emphasis on “self-restraint,” has flourished by upholding the quality of its products while ditching superfluous features (its clothing doesn’t even have labels inside). Muji aims to swell its nine American stores to around 75 by 2016. As for why Japan should suddenly find itself flexing its muscles in U.S. shopping malls, that may come down to a ma er of right place, right time. “Japanese sensibilities chime with American consumers at the moment,” says Jan Randolph, an economist at the counsultancy group IHS Global Insight. “Heritage, a ention to detail, a lessis-more approach and an accent on service are things people have come to appreciate more since the financial collapse.” Marian Berelowitz, interim director of trendspotting at the marketing communications brand JWT, agrees. Japanese culture, Berelowitz says, is “definitely in step with the rise in mindful living, the Zen-like

appeal of simple pleasures and the desire to filter out branding and distractions.” On a less spiritual level, two Japanese convenience store giants have announced U.S. expansion plans. Famima!!, an upmarket food store owned by Tokyo’s Family Mart, already has operations in California, and Lawson has opened several outlets in Hawaii, selling onigiri and oden next to the piña colada mix. Meanwhile, American cities will soon succumb to the charms of Aki-Home, which aims to lure Ikea-oriented urbanites by offering “tasteful minimalism with a nod to nature.” Part of Sapporo-based Nitori Holdings, Aki-Home has just opened two stores on the West Coast as a springboard to nationwide expansion over the next few years. Christian Davies, executive creative director for the Americas at the branding and retail consultancy Fitch, believes Japan is set to present a significant challenge to design-led yet low-cost companies like Ikea. “They make you question why good design is traditionally so expensive,” he says. “And they make you realize, with clever manufacturing techniques and simple, mass detailing, that it doesn’t have to be.” As for the Japanese commitment to service, Davies says that such an approach could prove pivotal in the current existential struggle between actual and virtual retailers. “This is something we desperately need,” he says. “The

What Are You Really Talking About? ACCORDING TO YELP, GOOD EATING IS MOSTLY ABOUT SEX AND DRUGS

ny restaurant manager worth his reservation book knows Athan that Yelp reviews are more about the people who write them they are about the food. But recently, a few scientists

from Stanford and Carnegie Mellon endeavored to ﬁgure out exactly what that meant, using linguistic analysis on almost 888,000 Yelp reviews on 6,548 different onth’s restaurants. According to their recent paper in the m is h t NG I Z journal First Monday, positive reviews of inexpensive A AM CT restaurants contained a disproportionate amount of FA drug-related words, like “jonesing,” “binge” and “drug of choice.” Reviews of expensive restaurants, meanwhile, included more complex words, and more sensual and even sexual terms, like “lust,” “sultry” and “pornographic.” The researchers believe this can partly be explained by the fact that tasty inexpensive food tends to be sugary, fatty or otherwise bad for you, while consumers of expensive food like to portray themselves as sensual gourmands. As for what you should say if your dinner guest brings this up at the table, we suggest, “So, how ’bout them Bears?” —JACQUELINE DETWILER

p057-059_HEM0714_Industry.indd 58

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human factor is in increasingly short supply in U.S. stores. I think weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll see a return to thatâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;from faceless selfcheckout to a spirit of hospitality, warmth and gratitude. If you are making a decision to shop in a physical store, you deserve this.â&#x20AC;? As Japanese retailers continue to blaze a trail across the U.S., there are signs that American companies are starting to take notice. Some fashion outlets, for example, are experimenting with â&#x20AC;&#x153;quiet zones,â&#x20AC;? while a few convenience store chains are considering the radical notion of intentionally employing friendly clerks. The irony here is that many successful Japanese retailers owe a massive debt to their American counterpartsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;albeit sometimes ones from a bygone era. AkiHome, for instance, was modeled on the homeware stores that founder Akio Nitori encountered on a 1970s trip to California. Lawson was actually once an American companyâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;famous for its store-brand orange juice and chip dipâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;before it was transplanted to Tokyo. Then thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s The Real McCoyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, which sells lumberjack shirts and James Dean jacketsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;a very American-looking brand that, it turns out, is based in Kobe.

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TECH

I AM WOMAN, HEAR ME CODE EVEN IN THE SEEMINGLY PROGRESSIVE WORLD OF HIGH TECH, WOMEN FACE OUTDATED STEREOTYPES. FEMALE-FRIENDLY INCUBATORS ARE GIVING THEM A SPACE TO THRIVE. BY CRISTINA ROUVALIS

WHEN ELISA ALL launched iParenting Media back in 1996, she did so in almost total isolation, building her business at home with an infant. Eleven years later, she sold the online parenting publishing conglomerate to Disney for an undisclosed (but signiﬁcant) sum, but that has done li le to rid All of the sense that she remains on the margins of her chosen field.

R1_p060-061_HEM0714_Tech.indd 60

“You feel like an anomaly,” she says of being a mother of two in the tech world. “It can be daunting.” Only 10 to 15 percent of all entry-level jobs in tech are held by women, according to executive search firm Harvey Nash, and, barring a couple of colossal exceptions (COO of Facebook Sheryl Sandberg and Yahoo CEO Marissa Mayer), female bosses are an even rarer

ILLUSTRATION BY SCOTTY REIFSNYDER • JULY 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

11/06/2014 09:20

TECH || BRIGHT IDEAS occurence. As dispiriting as such statistics may be, says All, who’s currently working on video-streaming apps and a website for moms on the go, they don’t even begin to describe the difficulty female tech entrepreneurs encounter in trying to build their businesses. The networking events she a ends usually resemble an old-boys club, she says, in which investors “throw money at the male tech superstars” and dismiss companies like hers as “fluffy women things.” But thanks to female-friendly incubators like the Chicago-based 1871, the 45-year-old All can talk to mentors, pitch investors and tap business resources in a way that was impossible before. “You are plopped into a thriving community with other entrepreneurs,” she says. “I was accepted and welcomed here.” Of the 240 startups at 1871, which investor and philanthropist J.B. Pritzker set up a couple of years ago, more than 25 percent include women among the founders, and this fall, the organization aims to boost those already impressive numbers with the launch of FEMtech, a program that will offer female entrepreneurs from around the world the financial and logistical support they’ll need to turn ideas into businesses. A big part of the work FEMtech will do as it develops is help women with children balance work and family commitments. Networking events, for example, will be scheduled at midday rather than the conventional late-a ernoon happy hour. “The end of the day is a horrible time if you are a parent,” says Howard Tullman, 1871’s CEO. This family-friendly approach is a rarity in the “bro-gramming” world of Silicon Valley—where you are far more likely to encounter a foosball table than a nursery. In fact, even in this supposedly progressive milieu, caveman a itudes are rife. “This can be a very difficult place for women,” California-based employment a orney Kelly M. Dermody says of Silicon Valley. “They are o en not given credit on work, are excluded from networking, are sexually harassed. Many leave.” Women may be at a disadvantage in the tech field long before they set foot in the workplace. Studies show girls’ propensity to shy away from math and science begins in elementary school and continues through college. In 2012, for example, women received 57 percent of all undergraduate degrees in the U.S., but only 12 percent of the computer science degrees awarded by major research universities.

The family-friendly approach is a rarity in the “bro-gramming” world of Silicon Valley, where you are far more likely to encounter a foosball table than a nursery. And yet, as Tullman puts it, the “dirty li le secret of tech startups” is that you don’t necessarily need a computer science degree. “You don’t have to geek out,” he says. “No one is doing machine code. You need to devote resources to design and user interface. There is no reason why women cannot play a more significant role.” This is certainly true of All, who studied journalism in college and had a freelance writing and editing business before launching her startups. For All, the beauty of FEMtech is that it will allow her to share her insights and experiences with women who face the same problems she has encountered since she entered the ﬁeld 18 years ago. And one of the ﬁrst messages she wants to impart is that hers is not so much a story of female empowerment as it is one of good business sense. CRISTINA ROUVALIS, a Pittsburgh-based writer, is considering learning how to code.

JULY CROSSWORD ANSWERS

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F E AT UR E S 64

THE HEMI Q&A: JANE GOODALL

THE NEW ADVENTURERS

THREE PERFECT DAYS: PORTLAND

The famous scientist and English dame reminisces about her relationships with ﬂora and fauna

Hemispheres is pleased to introduce your adrenal gland to the next generation of extreme sports

America’s hipster capital is home to fantastic dining, unparalleled craft brews and stunning natural landscapes

“YOU ADMIRE THE ENDLESS VARIETY OF PORTLAND’S SIGNATURE FLOWER—BETTY BOOPS, SCARBOROUGH FAIRS, BLUEBERRY HILLS. YOU’D STOP TO SMELL THEM, BUT THAT WOULD TAKE ALL SUMMER.” THREE PERFECT DAYS: PORTLAND ILLUSTRATION BY CHRISTINE BERRIE • JULY 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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JULY 2014

THE HEMI Q&A

Jane Goodall In 1960, the world’s foremost primatologist, ethologist and anthropologist got her start observing apes in Tanzania’s Gombe Stream National Park. Now 80, she’s Mother Nature’s greatest champion, and she still has a few lessons for the rest of us. BY JACQUELINE DETWILER ILLUSTRATION BY ANDRÉ CARRILHO

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THE HEMI Q&A: JANE GOODALL

THERE WAS A TIME when the idea of the scientist-adventurer captivated the public imagination—when young men and women boarded ships with their binoculars and logbooks and risked everything for a chance to a ain a place in the scientific pantheon. Dame Jane Goodall is in a sense the last of these swashbucklers, who needed as much backbone as brains to trek to the undiscovered bits of the earth and uncover their mysteries ies for the rest of us. Goodall’s life reads like Dr. Doli le by way of Pygmalion. In 1956, 956, at 23 years old and without so much as a college degree, she traveled led to Africa to work as a secretary for famed anthropologist Louis Leakey. akey. Four years later, she was alone in the jungle in what is now Tanzania, ania, developing a strategy for interacting with the local chimps so that hat she could study and film them. When she observed that the chimps ps were hunting and using sticks as tools, the entire scientific commmunity was forced to reconsider the difference between man and d the great apes. Goodall has been a household name ever since, and d is among only a handful of scientists to have obtained the statuss of pop culture icon. She has been referenced in the comic “The Far ar Side” and even on an episode of “The Simpsons.” Though at the age of 80 Goodall has reached the emeritus stage of her career, she is as busy as ever acting as a spokeswoman for Mother Nature. She still travels the world as a UN Messenger of Peace, and she encourages human beings to be be er stewards of the earth through the Jane Goodall Institute and Roots & Shoots, her international children’s program. Her latest book, Seeds of Hope, expresses both fears and wishes for the planet that has hosted her and her animal companions all these years. Hemispheres recently reached Goodall by phone at her family home in Bournemouth, England, where she was relaxing before a quick trip to Belgium, Holland, Spain, France, e, Australia, New Zealand, Indonesia, Sri Lanka, Nepal, Burundi,i, Tanzania and Kenya.

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QUEEN OF THE JUNGLE Top to bottom: Goodall with husband Hugo van Lawick in 1974; speaking to a Roots & Shoots group in 2003; with chimpanzee Max at Gombe Stream National Park in Tanzania, circa 1991

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HEMISPHERES: You’ve got quite a trip

coming up. What will you be doing? JANE GOODALL: I’ll be doing events for Roots & Shoots, talking to children, helping them raise money to keep their own institutes going through 2018. And they’ll want to give me birthday parties. HEMISPHERES: Oh yes, happy birthday!

AP (GOODALL AND VAN LAWICK); DAVID S. HOLLOWAY/GETTY IMAGES (ROOTS & SHOOTS); KENNAN WARD/CORBIS (GOODALL HOLDING CHIMP)

Eighty is quite a milestone. And you’re still so busy! How is Roots & Shoots doing? GOODALL: The program began with 12 high school students in Tanzania in 1991, and it’s now in 136 countries with about 150,000 to 160,000 active groups. Now the kids are all ages. The main message is “Every individual makes a diﬀerence every day. And we have a choice.” So every group chooses, between them, three projects. One to help people, one to help other animals and one to help the environment that we all share. What they do depends on where they are, how old they are, what their passions are and what the problems are. HEMISPHERES: It seems as though you’re

encouraging kids to have the same excitement about the environment that you do. GOODALL: Yeah, about the environment and about social issues, too. It’s empowering young people, because they talk about what they care about, and then they work out what they can do about it, and then they roll up their sleeves and take action. HEMISPHERES: So I have to ask the obvious question: After a lifetime spent working with great apes and other animals, why write Seeds of Hope, a book about plants? GOODALL: It started because the last book I wrote before this was Hope for Animals and Their World, and it was about animals rescued from the brink of extinction. I had a section on plants rescued from the brink of extinction, because that’s equally exciting, but the

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publishers thought the book was too long, and they chopped it. I felt very sad for all the botanists who had been so excited to be in a book by Jane. So I thought, Well, I’ll just pull together what I know about plants and boost it up a li le bit, and publish a very slim book, which maybe a botanical garden would publish. And then it was as though the plants put li le roots in my head and said, “Hey Jane, you spent all your life helping animals. It’s our turn now. You wouldn’t be here but for us.” HEMISPHERES: Some of those plants that made it back from the precipice were pretty inspiring, like the ones that survived the atomic bombs at Hiroshima and Nagasaki. It’s almost as if they have personalities. GOODALL: They do, and with the knowledge that we now have that they can communicate through chemical signals in the breeze, or through their roots—who knows what their secret life really is like? HEMISPHERES: Now I’m concerned that

JANE GOODALL BY THE NUMBERS Volunteer hours contributed by Roots & Shoots groups

780,000+ Chimps at the Jane Goodall Institute’s Tchimpounga Sanctuary

160+ Days per year Goodall spends on the road

300 Adult and children’s books wri en by Goodall

25 Number of those books that are at least partly about animals

24 Percent of DNA shared between humans and chimps

95–98

my desk plants are talking to each other about how bad a caretaker I am. GOODALL: Oh, I did. I’ve read them all. GOODALL: I’m sure they do! [laughs] You know, there was research done about 20 years ago where a man walked down a row of plants that was near another row of plants, slashing the ﬁrst row. Then if that man appeared again—not another man, but the same one—the plants who hadn’t been slashed put out all these strange electrical signals.

HEMISPHERES: According to Seeds of Hope, Mother Nature isn’t doing very well. You talk about deforestation, superweeds and irresponsible farming practices. The situation seems so dire. GOODALL: It’s dreadfully dire! We should be ashamed of ourselves!

HEMISPHERES: It would be like the Greek

HEMISPHERES: Is there anything we’re

earth goddess, Gaia, if all the plants are actually talking to each other about us.

doing right for the environment?

GOODALL: It would be back to Dr. Doli le, wouldn’t it? I don’t know if you read Dr. Doli le in the Moon, but when he goes up to the moon, the plants talk to each other. HEMISPHERES: I don’t think I’ve read

that one.

GOODALL: Well, there’s a growing awareness. More and more people are understanding that climate change is real. Mother Nature’s been telling us, hasn’t she? So what’s going right is that more people are aware, but the problem is that they become aware but they don’t actually change their behavior. And I think the reason CONTINUED ON PAGE 84 »

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THE NEW ADVENTURERS

In the world of extreme sports, creative adrenaline junkies are giving new meaning to the term “mash-up”

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ACK IN THE DAY, people had to create their own adventures. You’d tie a couple of wooden slats to your feet and go barreling down a snow-covered mountain, say, or grab a piece of vine, Tarzan-style, and swing yourself out over a lake. Today, extreme sports enthusiasts are using a combination of technological know-how and an apparently limitless appetite for near-death experiences to create faster, trickier, nuttier ways to get an adrenaline ﬁx. Every week, it seems, some bright spark will introduce an imaginative gadget or technique that allows people to soar, plunge, twirl, whiz and boing around perilously. Here, we take a look at some of the more recent, and extreme, innovations.

WINGSUIT FLYING + Requirements: Wingsuit, parachute, helmet, high place from which to jump, faith. + Best place to do it: Because wingsuit flying requires, well, falling, many participants BASE jump first (BASE is an acronym for building, antenna, span and earth). One of the most popular spots is in the scenic Lauterbrunnen Valley in Switzerland. + Origins: Though wingsuiting may look futuristic, versions of it have been around since the early 1900s, when suits made of canvas or silk, wood and whalebone proved to be a li le bit spla y. Modern wingsuiting, with its durable, lightweight materials, was born in 1999, when Jari Kuosma of Finland and Robert Pečnik of Croatia developed the first commercially available suit. + The experience: “Wingsuit flying is one of those things that you have to experience in order to truly understand it,” says Jeb Corliss, an American skydiver and BASE jumper who has leaped from the Eiffel Tower, Sea le’s Space Needle and Rio's Christ the Redeemer statue. “Trying to explain this to people is hard. If a person hasn’t experienced love, it’s very difficult to explain what it is, you know? Wingsuit flying is similar.”

CAMERA PRESS/BRUNO VINCENT/REDUX

BASE JUMPING + A SUPERMAN COMPLEX = WINGSUIT FLYING

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SUBWING + Requirements: Motorboat, water, hydrodynamic wings, goggles, reasonably taut swimsuit elastic.

MOTOCROSS + ICE SKATING + ROLLER DERBY = ICE CROSS DOWNHILL

ICE CROSS DOWNHILL + Requirements: Ice skates, helmet, hockey pads, ice chute, a reliable organ donor. + Best place to do it: Not surprisingly, one of the best competition tracks for this sport is in Minnesota, the “State of Hockey,” where 1,300 perilous feet of bumps, jumps and abrupt turns snake through downtown St. Paul. + Origins: While its history is murky, ice cross reportedly got its start in 2000, when two adventurous Austrians wore skates on an icy downhill rollerblading course. A year later, a sport was born when Red Bull held the first official competition—ominously dubbed “Crashed Ice”—on a course the company built through a fish market in Stockholm.

+ Origins: Norwegian Simon Sivertsen came up with the idea for the subwing as an 18-year-old in 2011. As he tells it, he’d tied a piece of dri wood to a waterskiing rope and found that he could use it to change course while being towed underwater. A year later he’d produced the Subwing, a pair of swiveling flaps that allow the user to “glide through the water like a dolphin.” + The experience: “This feeling of flying underwater is incredible,” says Mats Westgård, Sivertsen’s cousin and an enthusiastic proponent of the sport. “You feel free, like a fish. You can do tricks, 360-degree turns, spins. I

KIRILL SHEVCHENKO/DEMOTIX/CORBIS (ICE CROSS); KURT CHAMBERS (SUBWING)

+ Best place to do it: Bonaire, a tiny island about 50 miles north of Venezuela, which is known for its abundance of coral species and embarrassment of sea life— including turtles, who will be grateful that you’re not grabbing hold of their shells in order to get around.

+ The experience: “Imagine going as fast as you can while being on the verge of falling,” says Minnesota native Cameron Naasz, winner of the Moscow leg of this year’s Ice Cross World Championship. “You just teeter-to er that line and also have to make a crazy straight or turn while there are 100,000 people watching you.”

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sometimes hold the cable with my feet, or stand on my cousin’s back. And of course you get to see the world beneath the water. It’s hard to explain the feeling.”

CHRISTIAN HEEB/LAIF/REDUX (VOLCANO SURFING)

WATER SKIING + SNORKELING = SUBWING

VOLCANO SURFING + Requirements: Modiﬁed snowboard, jumpsuit, ash slope, faulty survival instincts. + Best place to do it: The Cerro Negro volcano, Nicaragua. + Origins: In 2004, Darryn Webb, the Australian founder of the Bigfoot Hostel in León, Nicaragua, started toying with the idea of hurtling down the side of the nearby Cerro Negro. He experimented with everything from ma resses to mini-fridges before se ling on a steel-reinforced snowboard. Riders—who can avail themselves

of special Bigfoot packages— either sit or stand on the boards, and have been clocked at speeds in excess of 50 mph. + The experience: “It is an incredible thrill,” says Joshua Berman, co-author of the Moon Nicaragua travel guide and one of the ﬁrst people to try the sport. “First, you hike up and see all these mountains. Then you point yourself downhill and get going. You’re avoiding sulfur vents, rocks ﬂying the whole way down. And, yes, this is the youngest and most active volcano in Nicaragua, so there’s that element to it, too.”

SNOWBOARDING + VOLCANO = VOLCANO SURFING

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SKISHING + Also known as: Extreme surfcasting. + Requirements: Wetsuit, flippers, surfcasting rod, gills. + Best place to do it: Any shoreline with large fish and few sharks. Skishing’s creator is fond of Montauk, New York. + Origins: Paul Melnyk, who is credited with inventing the sport, accidentally skished for the first time when he fell from a rock into the ocean while ba ling a 40-pound striped bass. At first he was alarmed, but then he saw the experience for what it was: an exhilarating water sport that had the added benefit of providing dinner. + The experience: “You have to balance, mostly by kicking with your feet,” says Melnyk.

“It’s you ﬁghting the ﬁsh with your whole body, instead of standing on a boat and pulling. I was gonna call it ‘swishing,’ but that didn’t sound right, so

I changed it to skishing—ski ﬁshing—because a big ﬁsh will pull you around pre y well. It can drag you 10 feet at a time. That’s the most exciting part.”

SWIMMING + FISHING + WATER SKIING = SKISHING

FLYBOARDING + Requirements: $5,800 ﬂyboard, obsession with Back to the Future Part II, spine made entirely out of rubber bands. + Best place to do it: A relatively ﬂat body of water that’s at least eight feet deep. The Mediterranean near Marseilles is a popular destination, as is Doha, Qatar, where the Flyboard World Cup was held in 2012 and 2013.

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POWERBOCKING + Requirements: A pair of springloaded stilts, knee pads, elbow pads, chin pads, bu ock pads, etc.

CHANDLER KAUFFMAN (SKISHING); PASCAL POCHARD-CASABIANCA/AFP/GETTY IMAGES (FLYBOARDING); JOERG MODROW/LAIF/REDUX (POWERBOCKING)

+ Best place to do it: Any space free of trees and other potentially painful obstacles (unless the tree happens to have a cat stuck in it). + Origins: Powerbocks were patented in 2004 by a German aerospace engineer named Alexander Böck, who’d been inspired to create his springloaded stilts, it is said, a er looking at a kangaroo. The devices, which allow users to run at speeds of over 20 mph and jump as high as eight feet, may have spawned more fist-bumping than any other product in history. In 2008, they featured in the closing ceremony of the Beijing Olympics. + The experience: “You can do pre y much anything on these things,” says Sco Loeser, a former gymnast who has been described as the Tiger Woods of powerbocking, and who gives exhibitions around the U.S. “You can jump over cars, do a flying Superman flip, grab someone’s hat as you go by. It’s exhausting but exhilarating. I’ll be running and my steps will be eight feet long. It’s like there’s no gravity.”

+ Origins: “Hey, McFly … those boards don’t work on water. Unless you’ve got power”—or one of Franky Zapata’s ﬂyboards. A er the world champion Ski-Doo racer developed a design for a hoverboard but was too afraid to try it out, the Frenchman combined it with his favorite personal watercra to make it less dangerous. The result was a hit: The Flyboard became commercially available in 2011, and there was a world championship the next year.

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PARKOUR + POGO-STICKING = POWERBOCKING

+ The experience: “It’s like you’re Iron Man. You’re standing on a tower of water,” says Thom Hall, partner at Rocky Mountain Flyboard and recent backﬂip

achiever. “The first time I got up, it was the coolest thing I think I’ve ever done. It’s a feeling like jet-assisted flying. It’s like I’m surfing 20 feet up in the air.”

HOVERBOARDING + WATER SKIING = FLYBOARDING

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THE BRIDGES OF MULTNOMAH COUNTY A few of the 11 bridges that cross the Willamette River in downtown Portland

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THREE PERFECT DAYS: PORTLAND America’s hipster capital is home to world-class dining, dozens of microbreweries, a quirky arts scene and some of the most beautiful parks and natural landscapes in the country. Other than that, it’s pre y nice here. BY JUSTIN GOLDMAN

77 DAY ONE

Spinning records at the Ace Hotel, perusing rare titles at Powell’s City of Books, quaﬃng beers at Breakside Brewery

78 DAY TWO

Looking up at the Portlandia statue, tasting Thai food at Pok Pok, sipping bourbon at the Multnomah Whiskey Library

81 DAY THREE DANIEL CRONIN

Brunching at Beast, driving through the massive Columbia River Gorge, rocking out at the Doug Fir Lounge

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PORTLAND || THREE PERFECT DAYS PORTLAND HAS MORE than its share of nicknames—Stumptown, Brewvana, Bridgetown, PDX, Rip City, the City of Roses—but odds are you haven’t heard many of them. Despite being home to iconic indie artists like Gus Van Sant and Ellio Smith, not to mention some of the best microbreweries in the world, to most people Portland is just a small Pacific Northwest city that gets a lot of rain. Recently, though—due in part to “Portlandia,” the IFC comedy that lovingly lampoons hipster culture—Portland’s public profile has been on the rise. The city (mo o: “Keep Portland Weird”) has become a magnet for creative types, drawn to its bookstores, record shops, music venues, public artworks and ta oo parlors. As Fred Armisen puts it on “Portlandia,” it’s “a city where young people go to retire.” But you don’t have to be a clued-in 20-something to enjoy Portland. Thick with public parks and surrounded by pristine forests and mountains, it’s a dream locale for outdoors enthusiasts. The damp climate and proximity to first-rate farms also provide the thriving restaurant, winery and brewery scene with an abundance of fresh ingredients. Those seeking traditional cultural outlets, meanwhile, can avail themselves of Portland’s museums and art galleries, many of which have taken over industrial spaces across the city. Today, the national media’s appreciation for the city has become so ardent that locals refer to the blitz of coverage as “stalking.” But Portlanders remain exceedingly friendly—you shouldn’t be surprised if one offers you a ride into town from the airport and regales you with recommendations the whole way. People are especially cheery in the summer, when the clouds part, brewpub patios hum, and cycling becomes the only acceptable form of transportation, be it to an art fair or an organic grocery.

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PORTLAND BY THE NUMBERS POPULATION

583,776 AVERAGE ANNUAL PRECIPITATION, IN INCHES

35.98 SIZE, IN ACRES, OF FOREST PARK, THE LARGEST URBAN FOREST IN THE U.S

5,157 AREA, IN SQUARE INCHES, OF MILLS END PARK, THE SMALLEST PARK IN THE WORLD

452 SALES TAX IN OREGON

0 SQUARE FEET OF RETAIL FLOOR SPACE AT POWELL’S BOOKS

68,000

CARISSA AND ANDREW GALLO (JAPANESE GARDEN); LAURA DART (ACE HOTEL)

ZEN AND THE ART OF CONTINENTAL BREAKFAST Raked sand and manicured plants at the Portland Japanese Garden; previous page: the Ace Hotel's breakfast room

DAY ONE | You wake up at the Ace Hotel, a boutique property in Portland’s revitalized West End neighborhood, and immediately rue your lack of skinny jeans. The Ace is quintessential Portland: Leonard Cohen lyrics painted on the walls, a photo booth in the lobby, a record player in your room. It sometimes feels a bit too cool for school—but you’d probably adopt this attitude too if Gus Van Sant had filmed Drugstore Cowboy in your house. You’re feeling coﬀee and doughnuts this morning, in part because Portland does those two things better than anywhere else. On your way out the door, you grab a latte from Stumptown Coffee Roasters, then take a short walk down Burnside, the street that separates Portland’s north and south sides. Here you find Voodoo Doughnut, a legendary line-around-theblock fried-dough joint, where you pound down a bacon maple bar and the store’s eponymous confection, a chocolatecovered voodoo doll with raspberry jelly

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innards and a pretzel stick protruding from its chest. Somewhat overfed, you take a vigorous two-mile stroll over to Washington Park, in the West Hills, where you are instantly soothed by the sculpted flora of the Portland Japanese Garden. Transfixed, you half walk, half float past the koi pond and the stone garden and onto the back porch of the pavilion, where a resplendent view of Mount Fuji—er, Mount Hood—causes you to catch your breath. From here, it’s a few flights of stone stairs down to the International Rose Test Garden. Founded in 1924, this is the oldest continually operating public rose garden in America, and quite possibly the pre iest. You wander through a maze of multicolored hedgerows, admiring the apparently endless variety of Portland’s signature flower—Be y Boops, Scarborough Fairs, Blueberry Hills. You’d stop to smell them, but with more than 10,000 roses in the garden, that would take all summer.

BRIDGES CROSSING THE WILLAMETTE RIVER IN PORTLAND

11 NUMBER OF PORTLAND STREETS AFTER WHICH “THE SIMPSONS” CREATOR MATT GROENING NAMED CHARACTERS

7 You’ve worked up an appetite by the time you get back downtown. Fortunately, the city center is Foodcartlandia, its corners overrun with vendors oﬀering everything from schnitzel to paleo fare. You step up to Nong’s Khao Man Gai and order the signature dish, a Thai street creation comprising rice and poached chicken topped with a hot sauce that torches your taste buds. They die happy. A er lunch, you make a pilgrimage to Powell’s City of Books. The world’s largest independent bookstore, Powell’s takes up an entire city block and is so cavernous that the information desks provide maps. You head to the fourth-floor rare book room, where used book buyer Kirsten Berg shows you a copy of D-Day narrative The Longest Day that includes an inscription from the author to Eleanor Roosevelt. “I love the things people stick in books,” she says. The volume’s price tag ($2,000) is prohibitive, so you pick up a copy of local author Katherine Dunn’s fantastically

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PORTLAND || THREE PERFECT DAYS with fruit and a bite of coriander. “Trust me,” Johnson says of the odd-sounding ﬂavors. You do, and are duly rewarded. From Breakside it’s a short bus ride to your dinner spot, Lincoln Restaurant. The ﬁrst eatery opened by “Top Chef Masters” alum Jenn Louis, Lincoln offers Pacific Northwest cuisine that emphasizes local ingredients. You start with one of the few exceptions to this rule—the slow-cooked, impossibly tender grilled octopus— followed by baked hen eggs and FortySeven Percent Chicken, wryly named, Louis explains, because, served minus the wing, “it’s not a half chicken.” Even a few percent shy, it’s an exceptionally good bit of bird. It’s late, so you head back toward the Ace. On impulse, you decide on one more detour before bed: Pépé le Moko, a narrow subterranean bar that feels like the dining car of a train going through a tunnel. Your bartender, Talia Gordon, insists you try a Grasshopper. “It’s like an adult milkshake,”

THE ATTAINMENT OF BREWVANA Portland raises beer to a higher level Craft-brewed beer has become increasingly popular in America, with microbreweries popping up in San Diego, Brooklyn and everywhere in between. But no city has quite the obsession with suds that Portland has had since the state legislature legalized brewpubs in 1985. “Brewvana” is now home to 53 breweries and counting. So why is Portland such a great place for beer? “We’ve got 25 percent of the world’s hops within three hours of Portland,” says Christian Ettinger, owner and brewmaster of Hopworks Urban Brewery (pictured) and Hopworks Bike Bar, which specialize in organic beer. “You’ve got the most amazing soft water coming off Mount Hood. You’ve got good access to barley. One of the best craft yeast laboratories is also on Mount Hood. So you’ve got all four ingredients being supplied in a local way.” There are so many great breweries in and around Portland that there are tours devoted to them. Ashley Rose Salvitti started her company, Brewvana, in 2011. She now has three buses and runs about 10 tours a week. “The community in Portland supports beer,” Salvitti says. “You can go to your barbershop and drink beer. You don’t want to go see a movie unless you can be served beer. It’s in everything we do.” If you’re looking for a crash course in local beer, the annual Oregon Brewers Festival, which features more than 80 craft breweries, takes place at Tom McCall Waterfront Park July 23–27. The festival draws 80,000 people, so if you’re planning to attend, Ettinger advises you develop a strategy. “Go in with a plan,” he says. “Go in early, so everything you want is available. Go there with friends, because that’s what beer is all about. And stay hydrated.”

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she says, passing you a glass of mint green froth. The booze snob in you is skeptical, but you slurp it down and decide that all desserts should taste like this. Later, back in your room, you dri off to Ellio Smith whispering from the turntable: “I’ll show you around this alphabet town.” DAY TWO | You shake yourself awake, relaxing for a few minutes in the boxing robe you find in the closet, before stumbling outside and around the corner, past a sculpture made of intertwined kids’ bicycles, to Tasty n Alder. You take a seat at the impressively stocked bar and order a couple of proven restoratives: a Kentucky Peach—basically a bellini with a splash of bourbon—and a Hangtown Fry, an oyster and bacon fri ata served with a huge bu ermilk biscuit. Substantially recovered, you stroll over to the Portland Saturday Market, a sprawl of artists’ stalls, food carts and cra vendors stretching along the Willamette River waterfront and under the Burnside Bridge. You skirt a large crowd circled around a semi-competent juggler and snake through booths selling handmade jewelry, Oregonthemed clothing and images of Mount Hood rendered in every possible medium. It’s a bit too crowded to really stretch your legs here, though, so you wander along the South Park Blocks, a stretch of greenery where you find lush oak and maple trees, roses (naturally), statues of Teddy Roosevelt and Abraham Lincoln, and a wedding party snapping photos. You stop to stare up at the Portlandia statue, a trident-bearing woman that, at 36 feet tall, is the second largest hammeredcopper statue in America (after some French lady in New York). You’re surprised to find the sun starting to feel a li le too hot, so you head a couple blocks west for respite at the Portland Art Museum, where you while away an hour or so among the killer whale masks and intricately beaded bags in the Native American art gallery. The feather-bedecked Raven to Sun Transformation Costume makes you want to go on a vision quest. A er wolfing down a couple of carnitas tacos at another fine food cart, La Jarochita, it’s check-in time at your second hotel, the Sentinel. The 100-year-old building— a National Historical Landmark and a setting for Van Sant’s My Own Private Idaho—reopened this spring after a $6 million renovation, and its design

LAURA DART (OPPOSITE PAGE); TIM LABARGE (HOPWORKS)

weird novel Geek Love and make for the cash register. Your mini shopping spree isn’t over yet: You’re going to need some vinyl to spin on that hotel turntable. As it happens, there are two excellent record shops within three blocks of you: Everyday Music, where you pick up a copy of the late, great Ellio Smith’s self-titled album, and Jackpot Records, where you get the new record from local indie band Blind Pilot. Arturo Diaz, the store’s relaxed clerk, explains why Portland is a mecca for record shops. “It’s the pace of the town,” he says. “People slow down.” “Brewvana,” as Portland is sometimes called, is also regarded as the cra -brewing capital of America. Commi ed to exploring another important aspect of local culture, you head to the east side, home to Breakside, one of the best brewpubs in town. Your fedora-wearing bartender, Jack Johnson, recommends the Salted Caramel Stout and a Kumquat Wit tinged

JULY 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

11/06/2014 09:27

THREE PERFECT DAYS || PORTLAND

PHOTO CREDIT TK - REMOVE IF EMPTY

BOOK ’EM Clockwise from top: cocktails at Pépé le Moko; a farmers market in downtown Portland; a few of the many, many shelves at Powell’s City of Books

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JULY 2014

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06/06/2014 09:04

PORTLAND || THREE PERFECT DAYS

CHASING WATERFALLS Clockwise from top left: a beer sampler at the Full Sail Brewing Co.; Stumptown Coffee Roasters; Multnomah Falls; Ike’s Vietnamese Fish Sauce Wings, hoi thawt and kaeng hang leh at Pok Pok

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JULY 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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THREE PERFECT DAYS || PORTLAND offers a blend of past (the green leather armchairs and rugged wood tables in the lobby recall Oregon’s legacy as a timber capital) and future (robot sculptures on the facade). A nice touch is the typewriter in the lobby, where guests can tap out comments. You start to type “I PDX,” but there’s no heart symbol on the machine, so you head upstairs and sack out on your enormous bed for an a ernoon nap. You wake feeling refreshed and hop a bus across the Morrison Bridge to sample the wares at Enso Urban Winery. You take a seat in the facility’s airy, industrial tasting room and order a flight of red wines. The Pacific Northwest has established itself as one of the best wine-growing regions in America, and the bold reds at Enso help explain why. “Oregon’s on the same parallel as Burgundy,” says bartender Henry Jinings. “The growing conditions are ideal.” Whistle whetted, you take a cab to Southeast Division Street, Portland’s flourishing restaurant row. Your destination is Pok Pok, one of America’s most revered Thai restaurants. The hostess tells you there’s an hour wait for a table, so you put your name on the list and cross the street to its sister bar, Whiskey Soda Lounge, where you sit in the tented patio and order chili-flecked Ike’s Vietnamese Fish Sauce Wings (a highlight from the Pok Pok menu). Just as you finish washing them down with a tamarind whiskey

CARISSA AND ANDREW GALLO (WATERFALL); LAURA DART (BEER, COFFEE, FOOD)

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

sour, a waitress informs you that your table is ready. Pok Pok’s James Beard Award–winning chef, Andy Ricker, derives his menu from the cuisine of northern Thailand (no Pad Thai here). You sample a spicy, sour, wonderfully fresh papaya Pok Pok salad; the hoi thawt, a light crepe stuﬀed with eggs and fresh mussels; and kaeng hang leh, an outrageously rich pork curry with Burmese spices. Nothing tastes like anything else on the table, or anything else you’ve eaten anywhere. Forget sampling—you plow through it all like it’s the last meal you’ll ever eat. A er dinner, the simple act of standing up poses a challenge, but you somehow manage to hail a cab and head to an eastside institution, the LaurelThirst Public House, one of the best places around to catch local folk and country acts. Tonight they’re hosting a Grateful Dead cover band, who’ve a racted an audience that consists of ﬂailing college kids and old hippies, among them a white-bearded man in a tie-dyed shirt bearing a large wooden walking stick who looks like a HaightAshbury version of Gandalf. You’re close to toast by the time you get back downtown, but you’ve got a reservation at the exclusive Multnomah Whiskey Library, where you sit in a leather-padded booth and take in the high-ceilinged brick barroom. On one side hang portraits of famed whiskey makers, including George

Washington, and on the other is the extensive “library”—the bar has old-fashioned ladders to reach the upper shelves—of whiskeys. You consider one of the cocktails, which are mixed tableside, but opt instead for an Old Rip Van Winkle 10 Year bourbon, neat. Your server gives an approving nod, and you close your evening sipping one of the best spirits on the planet. DAY THREE | You’ll be doing a bit of driving today. First you zip across the Fremont Bridge and up to Alberta Street, the main drag of the Alberta Arts District, which would be the Brooklyn of Portland if all of Portland weren’t the Brooklyn of Portland. Your destination is Beast. Here, chef Naomi Pomeroy, a 2014 James Beard Award winner, runs a bright, homey oneroom space with two large communal tables bracketing a prep station. Clearly, Beast’s reputation has traveled: All but two of the eight people at your table are out-of-towners. “It’s always been this communal setup,” server Lisa Perry says. “You get to meet people you wouldn’t normally meet.” So it is you share a convivial four-course brunch of a rhubarb clafoutis (custard with whipped cream and bacon); a light hash made with pork shoulder, fresh vegetables and a poached duck egg; a cheese plate; and a thick cube of chocolate cake. It is possibly the best brunch you’ve ever eaten.

THE INSIDE SCOOP FROM THOSE IN THE KNOW ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER JAMES FIELD

Gin Hicks,

Ellisa Valo,

Mark Cushing,

ARTIST, FORTUNE TATTOO

FREELANCE WRITER

BARTENDER, ENSO URBAN WINERY

“You have to go see a punk show at The Know on Alberta. It’s been there forever. It’s super-small—you’re getting sweaty, you’re getting covered in beer—but it’s the time of your life. Every time I go there, it makes me feel like a kid again.”

“Blue Star has really good doughnuts; Lardo does crazy sandwiches and bacon-dusted french fries; Ración does molecular gastronomy stuff. All three are boomboom-boom in the same building, so you can do a little food crawl.”

“Go to Forest Park and hike Wildwood Trail, which is 30 miles. You can enter this ancient forest and be surrounded by 100 different colors of green and, for however long you want, be completely lost in nature.”

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JULY 2014

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PORTLAND || THREE PERFECT DAYS

employee-owned Full Sail Brewing Co. You Having fueled up, you’re ready to split grab a seat on the deck, looking out over town. One of Portland’s selling points is the river, and nurse a bourbon barrel–aged its proximity to a host of beautiful natuporter, watching windsurfers flit about on ral landmarks. Just a few minutes east of the water. town you find the Historic Columbia Upon returning to the city, you check River Highway, which winds up a hill to in at the eighth-floor lobby of the Nines Vista House, a 97-year-old sandstone and hotel, beneath a seven-story atrium that marble rotunda perched on a cliff high bathes the luxe (and LEED-certified) inteabove the massive Columbia River Gorge. rior in sunlight. You drop your bags and You soak in the view, thinking that it hasn’t munch on the cheese plate in your room, changed much since Lewis and Clark which has a view of Pioneer Courthouse ra ed through on their way to the Pacific Square, the lively red-brick plaza known a couple of centuries ago. as “Portland’s Living Room,” before headFrom here you descend back into the ing up to the roo op bar, Departures. The canyon, the road winding through Douglas vibe is different up firs, over old stone LIKE THREE PERFECT DAYS? here; with the wall bridges and past Get them on the go, with our free panels glowing pink waterfalls until you Three Perfect Days iPhone app and purple and the reach 620-foot-high bling-flashing crowd on the sun-blanched Multnomah Falls, the second-tallest yearroo op, you feel as if you stepped off an round cascade in America. You pull over elevator in Vegas. and walk along Multnomah Creek, looking Back on the ground, with the sun still for spawning salmon, then climb the trail shining, you stroll across the Burnside to Benson Bridge. You pause here for a Bridge to dinner at Le Pigeon, where you sit while, enjoying the mist from the powerful before chef Gabriel Rucker’s open kitchen falls on your face. and watch flames rise from the range as An hour east of Portland you reach the ta ooed cooks de ly prepare a sucHood River, where you stop for lunch at cession of adventurous French dishes: the Double Mountain Brewery. You order a suckling pig croque es, sturgeon pastrami, dry-hopped Vaporizer pale ale and scarf beef-cheek bourguignon, shrimp-crusted down a brick-oven pizza topped with goat halibut. Each course is delicious and cheese, kalamata olives and peppadew complex and comes with a perfect drink peppers. From here, you wander around pairing. You do not have room for dessert. the corner to a microbrewing pioneer, the

It’s your last night in town and you’re ready to rock out. You’ll be doing this practically next door, at the Doug Fir Lounge. Once a seedy motel, the property was converted a few years ago into a boutique hotel and a bar that looks like a modernist hunting lodge that doubles as one of the city’s best music venues. As Nashvillebased indie songwriter Katie Herzig and her band take the stage, you look around the crowd—the studiously casual, comprehensively inked Portlanders who have helped make this the hippest town in America—and decide there may be an even be er place to mark the end of your visit, a place that’s conveniently located right up the street. “People who grow up here or move here love it,” says Gin Hicks, an artist at Fortune Tattoo. “There’s an intense need to preserve it and nurture it and take care of it, and that rolls over into how people express themselves.” With this, she clicks oﬀ her tattoo gun, pulling away to admire her work. You say goodnight and head back across the Burnside Bridge, the city lights twinkling on the river, a bright red rose tingling on your forearm.

Hemispheres managing editor JUSTIN GOLDMAN is still kinda bummed Carrie Brownstein wasn’t waiting to greet him at the Portland airport.

BOARDING PASS To reach Portland, Oregon, and experience some of the world’s best microbreweries, as well as the natural beauty of the Pacific Northwest, fly United from its hubs in Chicago, Denver, Houston, Los Angeles, New York/Newark, San Francisco and Washington. United Vacations helps you discover the best of this city, including special tours, with discounts and bonus miles for booking a package to Portland. To find out more, visit unitedvacations.com/portland.

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CARISSA AND ANDREW GALLO (WHISKEY LIBRARY); LAURA DART (PIZZA)

SUBJECTS WORTH STUDYING From left: Buffy’s Pizza at the Double Mountain Brewery; the Multnomah Whiskey Library

JULY 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

11/06/2014 09:27

Breakside Brewery N Rosa Parks Way

DAY ONE DAY TWO DAY THREE

N Ainsworth St. 5 N Killingsworth St.

Beast

NE Alberta St.

N Williams Ave.

Powell’s City of Books Everyday Music W Burnside St. Jackpot Records SW

Stumptown Coffee Roasters

12th

Ave .

9th SW

Ave .

Tasty n Alder Multnomah Whiskey Library

NE Fremont St.

Nong's Khao Man Gai Sentinel

NE 33rd St.

Ave .

St.

Alde

r St.

Lincoln Restaurant

Ace Hotel Pépé le Moko

NE Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd.

ton

Par k

hing

Ave .

Was

10th

Ave .

k St

13th

Star

NE Broadway NE Halsey St.

Double Mountain Brewery Full Sail Brewing Co. Multnomah Falls Vista House

NW Lovejoy St.

NW Glisan St.

py. .

W Burnside St.

Voodoo Doughnut Le Pigeon Doug Fir Lounge La Jarochita Portland Saturday Market

San

d Blv

NE Glisan St.

LaurelThirst Public House E Burnside St.

Portland Japanese Garden International Rose Test Garden

y dwa

Clay

Mar

Broa

e. a Av Vist SW

SE Belmont St.

Portlandia SW

St.

ket

St.

SE Grand Ave.

405

SE Stark St.

Enso Urban Winery & Lounge

Nait

the Nines

Portland Art Museum 26

o Pk

Fortune Tattoo

Ace Hotel 1022 SW Stark St., Portland; Tel. 503-228-2277 Stumptown Coffee Roasters 1026 SW Stark St., Portland; Tel. 503-224-9060 Voodoo Doughnut 22 SW 3rd Ave., Portland; Tel. 503-241-4704 Portland Japanese Garden 611 SW Kingston Ave., Portland; Tel. 503-223-1321 International Rose Test Garden 400 SW Kingston Ave., Portland; Tel. 503-823-3636 Nong’s Khao Man Gai 1003 SW Alder St., Portland; Tel. 971-255-3480 Powell’s City of Books 1005 W Burnside St., Portland; Tel. 503-228-4651 Everyday Music 1313 W Burnside St., Portland; Tel. 503-274-0961

Jackpot Records 203 SW 9th Ave., Portland; Tel. 503-222-0990 Breakside Brewery 820 NE Dekum St., Portland; Tel. 503-719-6475 Lincoln Restaurant 3808 N Williams Ave., Portland; Tel. 503-288-6200 Pépé le Moko 407 SW 10th Ave., Portland; Tel. 503-546-8537

DAY TWO Tasty n Alder 580 SW 12th Ave., Portland; Tel. 503-621-9251 Portland Saturday Market 2 SW Naito Pkwy., Portland; Tel. 503-241-4188 Portlandia 1120 SW 5th Ave., Portland Portland Art Museum 1219 SW Park Ave., Portland; Tel. 503-226-2811

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JULY 2014

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SE Hawthorne Blvd.

DAY ONE

SE 39th Ave.

NW 23rd Ave.

d Ex fiel Ban

SE Division St.

.5 Miles

Whiskey Soda Lounge Pok Pok

La Jarochita SW 5th Ave. and Stark St., Portland; Tel. 503-421-9838 Sentinel 614 SW 11th Ave., Portland; Tel. 503-224-3400 Enso Urban Winery & Lounge 1416 SE Stark St., Portland; Tel. 503-683-3676 Pok Pok 3226 SE Division St., Portland; Tel. 503-232-1387 Whiskey Soda Lounge 3131 SE Division St., Portland; Tel. 503-232-0102 LaurelThirst Public House 2958 NE Glisan St., Portland; Tel. 503-232-1504 Multnomah Whiskey Library 1124 SW Alder St., Portland; Tel. 503-954-1381

DAY THREE Beast 5425 NE 30th Ave., Portland; Tel. 503-841-6968

Vista House 40700 E Historic Columbia River Hwy., Corbett; Tel. 503-695-2240 Multnomah Falls 50000 E Historic Columbia River Hwy., Bridal Veil; Tel. 503-695-2372 Double Mountain Brewery 8 4th St., Hood River; Tel. 541-387-0042 Full Sail Brewing Co. 506 Columbia St., Hood River; Tel. 541-386-2247 the Nines 525 SW Morrison St., Portland; Tel. 877-229-9995 Le Pigeon 738 E Burnside St., Portland; Tel. 503-546-8796 Doug Fir Lounge 830 E Burnside St., Portland; Tel. 503-231-9663 Fortune Tattoo 1716 E Burnside St., Portland; Tel. 503-234-7071

06/06/2014 09:05

THE HEMI Q&A: JANE GOODALL

their behavior, I think. And also you can’t watch animals if they’re coming up and poking you and pulling you. HEMISPHERES: How are things at the

Gombe reserve these days? Is the chimp population doing well?

» CONTINUED FROM PAGE 67

“Dian Fossey was accepted by the gorillas, but she took it to the extreme. I never did that.” people don’t change their behavior is that they feel they couldn’t make any diﬀerence. They feel helpless. HEMISPHERES: I keep reading studies

about how much happier and healthier humans are if they have regular access to green spaces and plants. It would be such a shame to lose that. And it’s almost surprising that it needs to be said. GOODALL: There are so many people that have no access to it—in the inner cities, where there are high crime rates and hopelessness and gangs.

HEMISPHERES: Speaking of that, there aren’t many modern scientists that resonate in popular culture the way you do. It’s pretty much you, Carl Sagan, Stephen Hawking and now Neil deGrasse Tyson that everyone knows—even if they don’t really follow science. Do you have a theory about why that is? GOODALL: I think people were really fascinated by the chimpanzees, because they’re our closest living relatives. I was one of the ﬁrst to actually write popular books about them. And we had all the documentaries. So I’m all tied up with this fascinating species.

HEMISPHERES: How much of your life would you say you’ve spent outside?

HEMISPHERES: And then there’s being

GOODALL: I couldn’t give a percentage, but an awful lot. [laughs]

one of the only people to be accepted into chimpanzee society. That’s pretty memorable. Were you ever afraid?

HEMISPHERES: And at 80, you seem pretty happy and healthy—do you credit your connection with nature for that? GOODALL: I suppose I credit a lot of diﬀerent things. The way I was brought up, the connection with nature. The inspirational people that I meet as I travel around the world. The fact that I feel that the message I’m giving is making a diﬀerence.

p064-067_84_HEM0714_Q&A_Jane_Goodall.indd 84

GOODALL: Eh. Sometimes. Dian Fossey was accepted by the gorillas, and she took it to the extreme. She would sit on the alpha male’s lap and she would make their sounds to them. I never did that. I didn’t want to. I wanted to be accepted in that they didn’t run away from me. I wanted to learn about them by watching them from my human perspective, to understand them. If you start being part of their group, then you’re inﬂuencing

GOODALL: Yes, they’re just about hanging in there. And now we’ve got this program with the nearby villagers so that they’ve become our partners. We’ve been helping them to improve their own lives, so they’ve put land aside as a buﬀer between Gombe and the village. Some other villages that aren’t on Gombe’s border have put land aside to make a forest corridor [leading into the reserve]. We’ve had at least one chimp, possibly two, who’ve used that corridor and come into Gombe. There are fewer chimps than when I arrived in 1960, but they have more forest for their potential use than they had 10 years ago. HEMISPHERES: You talk so much about

your garden in your new book. Do you do the gardening yourself, or are you too busy? GOODALL: No, my sister Judy and her daughter do the gardening. I mean, I sit in it. But my rose is growing—the Jane Goodall rose. We have two of them growing here. Horticulturists in France named it for me. They said they wanted to develop a rose that had the most exquisite scent, and it climbed, because they see my spirit as climbing up. So it’s a climber. It took seven years to develop it. HEMISPHERES: I really can’t think of a

better reward than having a rose named after you. GOODALL: I have an orchid, too, in Singapore. It’s very beautiful. There’s a picture in the book. It’s yellow and sort of red. Lots of small ﬂowers. If you’re reading this, Mother Nature, Popular Mechanics senior editor JACQUELINE DETWILER promises to water the plants on her desk. Occasionally.

JULY 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

04/06/2014 15:47

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06/06/2014 09:13

A HEMISPHERES SUPPLEMENT

SOLVING THE AGING PROBLEM How w companies across America are working wor to provide rovide senior citizens with freedom, freed independence inde dependence ndence and the opportun opportunity o ortunity to age in their own home

WORDS BY DANIEL WELLBELOVE

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11/06/2014 15:11

SENIOR LIVING

A HEMISPHERES PROMOTION

Every day, close to 10,000 people across America are turning 65. An aging population is frequently cited as one of the biggest problems that the country has to address, not least because of the strain it puts on families and public services as seniors are forced to abandon much of their independence. In response, a number of companies have emerged with products and services that allow baby boomers to age healthily and happily, oﬀering everything from a entive in-home care to assistance with breathing. Some 2.5 million people in the U.S. alone are prescribed supplemental oxygen. Historically, this meant using a large in-home system that made its own oxygen, and then switching to portable tanks when out and about. However, these tanks were restrictive and unwieldy, and the constant fear of running out meant many users soon stopped traveling and gave up much of their freedom. “We saw a problem in the market and developed solutions for this,” says

Byron Myers, VP of marketing at Inogen, whose quiet and light portable concentrators oﬀer unlimited oxygen as long as they can be plugged in and four-and-a-half hours on a single ba ery. FAA-approved, they can be used through all stages of ﬂight. “At only 4.8 pounds, the Inogen One G3 was designed to increase independence at home, away, or during travel for active oxygen therapy users.” Myers was one of three students at University of California Santa Barbara to

STUDIES HAVE FOUND THAT CLOSE TO 90% OF SENIORS WANT TO LIVE IN THEIR OWN HOUSE FOR AS LONG AS POSSIBLE

form the company in 2001 a er seeing first-hand how one grandmother’s life changed when she began supplemental oxygen therapy. Since then, tens of thousands of patients across the country have benefi ed from the independence their invention provides. “So many people are still using traditional tanks and don’t know what is out there for them. This is a huge opportunity to help a lot of people,” says Myers. Studies have found that close to 90% of seniors want to live in their own houses as long as possible, which has given birth to a thriving in-home care industry, with franchises growing in every corner of the country. And Always Best Care stands at the forefront, with more than 25,000 families helped since the company was founded in 1996. The company’s services span a wide range of personal and social considerations, and it also offers skilled clinical care in many of its locations. “We can combine the standards and stability of a national company with the close

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A HEMISPHERES PROMOTION

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NEW SERVICES AND PRODUCTS OFFER INDEPENDENCE TO SENIORS UNLIKE ANYTHING THAT HAS GONE BEFORE personal service that’s only found in the local market,” says Barry Parrish, Always Best Care’s VP of marketing. Operating all across the U.S., Senior Helpers provides a full suite of companion and personal care services and specializes in helping those with Alzheimer’s or dementia. “We’ve developed a training program for both homecare providers across the country as well as family caregivers called Senior Gems,” says Peter Ross, CEO and co-founder. “This allows us to take care of these brave families as they cope with a challenging disease that, in the past, would o en force the family to inﬁrm the involved and put them into a lock-down facility.” The Senior Gems program takes a positive approach to the condition, with a focus on what a suﬀerer can do, rather than what they can’t. Caregivers are trained in a variety of techniques designed to foster communication and provide meaningful activities to do. “One of the biggest challenges with Alzheimer’s is environment changes, so if we can let that person stay home, then that really allows

for a much be er quality of life,” says Ross. The company also differentiates itself in its work with veterans and their spouses, many of which are eligible for the Veterans Administration’s Aid and A endance Pension Benefit, which is a non-service connected pension benefit that reimburses them for their in-home care. “A lot of veterans don’t even know that it exists,” says Ross. “We work with families to see if they qualify and, if so, they can receive the care they need to stay at home and fully enjoy their retirement.” Another leader in the industry is Seniors Helping Seniors, which stands out with a unique approach to in-home care. “We help less active seniors continue to live independently in their own homes with dignity and respect by matching them with more active seniors who provide them with all of the companionship and help they want,” says Kiran Yocom, who founded the company with her husband Philip in 1998. In this set-up, not only does the less active senior receive all of the assistance required to live as comfortably as possible,

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but both parties benefit from a strong friendship that arises out of the ability to relate to one another. Born in India, Kiran worked with Mother Teresa for years before coming to America. This taught her the value of love and compassion—a quality the company seeks above anything else when se ing up new franchises. Seniors Helping Seniors is now established in over 100 locations across 30 states, all staffed by communities that help because they want to, not because they have to. “When our franchise partners put their heads on their pillows at night, they can feel very good about their day,” says Kiran. Meanwhile, Home Care Assistance is commi ed to employing the best caregivers around, by offering the highest wages and top benefits in the industry, and training them in the company’s proprietary Balanced Care Method. This science-based approach is designed to promote healthy activity, stress reduction and social interaction; and was formulated based on studies of the elderly in Okinawa, Japan, where more people live longer and healthier than anywhere else on Earth and lifespans of over 100 years are not uncommon. This is the first senior care solution in the U.S. to emphasize balance and longevity, with moderation and variety the key considerations when pu ing it together. Home Care Assistance caregivers receive continuous teaching on the importance of nutrition, exercise, social ties, and mental and spiritual health—and can now be found in close to 100 franchise locations across the country. The company has also published

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seven books on senior wellness, offering practical advice and insight into the company’s approach to healthy aging. Back at Always Best Care, the company offers a host of special programs, which it believes sets it apart from the field. These include its Always In Touch service, which provides a daily phone call to seniors and disabled adults who are living alone, and is the only free national reassurance program of its kind in the U.S. or Canada. “This gives a lifeline to seniors who may not have close personal contact, offering a voice that says, ‘Here’s someone that cares about you,’” says Parrish. In addition, its Always On Call service provides clients and their families with free 24/7 telephone access to physicians, who can offer medical assistance at times when their primary care doctor is unavailable. Simply falling over can have catastrophic results for many older people, and rank as the number-one cause of nursing home admissions in the country. In response, the company has also introduced a program designed to bring peace of mind to families who are unable to look a er older relatives all around the clock. Always Safe begins with a home safety inspection and continues with a fall monitoring and detection system featuring Lifeline with AutoAlert, which immediately connects the senior with an always-open response center. ‘Aging in place’ is also a philosophy shared by the mobility industry, which is primed to grow as this demographic shi continues throughout the U.S. “People live longer if they stay in their home longer, and that’s what our company is all about,” says Mark Holat, accessibility sales manager at Bruno Independent Living Aids. One of the country’s oldest existing manufacturers of stairli s, chair li s and vertical platform li s, Bruno prides itself on its top-quality and innovative products, plus a high-level dealer network sca ered across the country. “It’s important people have local representation so that staff

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can evaluate the exact needs of every person and match the right product to them, and then be on hand for any maintenance later on,” says Holat. This recognition of the customer as an individual continues into the company’s designs, such as its Valet rotating automotive seats, which are programmable to meet every person’s unique requirements. Another company to promote senior independence is Canadabased Safety Bath, which is tackling the problem of bathtub accidents—one of the most common causes of household injuries among the elderly. It has grown from humble beginnings, when founder Ladimer Kowalchuk sawed a refrigerator in half to help bathe his aging father, and remains a leader in the sector. With an emphasis on safety and affordability, every tub is water-tested and manufactured or assembled in the company’s Alberta facility. “We are the inventor of the walk-in tub and still have the largest selection of accessible bathing in the industry,” says Alan Klain, sales manager and co-owner responsible for dealer development. “We offer everything from a door-insert kit, where a hole is cut in the side of an existing tub, to models with showers built in. It’s one thing to have a soothing bath, but another to come out warm and clean.” Taken all together, these services and products offer independence and freedom to seniors unlike anything that has gone before—making this a golden time for the golden generation.

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A319 Currently 55 planes 100% complete

757 serving p.s.® routes Currently 15 planes 100% complete

A320 Currently 97 planes 100% complete

757 serving non-p.s. routes Currently 1 plane 2% complete Estimated ﬂeet completion: July 2015

737 Currently 88 planes 31% complete Estimated ﬂeet completion: July 2015

777 Currently 3 planes 4% complete Estimated ﬂeet completion: July 2015

747-400 Currently 22 planes 100% complete

767 Currently 0 planes 0% complete Estimated ﬂeet completion: July 2015

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p105-107_HEM0614_DIRECTV.indd 105

Live video and internet streaming such as Netﬂix, Hulu and HBOGo, etc., are not supported. Use of VoIP (voice or video calls) is not permitted onboard.

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On 737 DIRECTV-equipped aircraft, satellite coverage will be limited to the continental United States. United is committed to offering you high quality and dependable Wi-Fi service during your ﬂight. If we did not meet your expectations, and you would like to request a refund for your Wi-Fi purchase, please visit united.com/refunds to submit a refund request.

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FOOD FOX FOX BUSINESS FOX NEWS FOX SPORTS 1 FOX SPORTS 2 FX FX MOVIE FXX GALA GOLF GOSPEL GSN H2 HALLMARK HGTV HISTORY HLN HUB INVESTIGATION LEARNING LIFETIME LIFETIME MOVIE LINK MILITARY MLB NETWORK MSNBC MTV MTV2 NAT GEO NAT GEO WILD NBATV NBC NBC SPORTS NFL NETWORK NHL NETWORK

231 398 359 360 219 618 248 258 619 404 218 338 233 271 312 229 269 204 294 285 280 252 253 375 287 213 356 331 333 276 283 216 392 220 212 215

NICK NICK JR. NICK TOON NRB OUTDOOR OVATION OWN OXYGEN PIVOT REELZ RURAL TV SCIENCE SOAP SPIKE SPORTSMAN STYLE SYFY TBS TEEN NICK TENNIS TNT TRAVEL TRUTV TURNER MOVIE TV GUIDE TV LAND TVG UNI SPORTS UNIVISION USA VH1 VH1 CLASSIC WEA WGN WORD

299 301 302 378 606 274 279 251 267 238 345 284 262 241 605 235 244 247 303 217 245 277 246 256 273 304 602 625 402 242 335 337 362 307 373

Exact channel numbers and programming schedules are subject to change. DIRECTV® service is not available on ﬂights outside the continental United States. The signal may be lost in turbulence and/or if banking of the aircraft is required. DIRECTV® and United Airlines are not responsible for interruptions of service that are beyond our control including, without limitation, acts of nature, power failure or any other cause. ©2013 DIRECTV® Inc. DIRECTV® and the Cyclone Design logo are registered trademarks of DIRECTV® Inc. All other trademarks and service marks are the property of their respective owners.

WATCH TO WIN Swipe for DIRECTV and you’ll automatically be entered for a chance to win a $2,500 vacation package

HOW IT WORKS: To be entered into the Sweepstakes, purchase the in-flight entertainment via credit card onboard any United DIRECTV-equipped flight between June 1 and July 31, 2014. To enter the Sweepstakes without making a purchase, send a 3-by-5-inch card with name, home and email address, phone number and date of birth to: United “Watch to Win” Sweeps, 90 Rockwood Place, CBX #110, Rochester, NY 14610. Entries must be postmarked by July 31, 2014 and received by August 7, 2014. Limit one entry per outer stamped mailing envelope per day.

To opt out of the Sweepstakes, send an email to watchtowin.united@livetv.net and provide ﬁrst and last name. NO PURCHASE NECESSARY TO ENTER OR WIN. Open to legal U.S. residents who are United Airlines customers and are 18 years of age or older. Begins 6/1/14 and ends 7/31/14. Official Rules at livetvsweeps.com/united. Sponsor: Live-TV, LLC. Void where prohibited.

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JULY 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

05/06/2014 15:37

What you want to watch MOVIES Choose from a lineup of top Hollywood ﬁlms, including family-friendly fare (Rio 2 and The LEGO Movie), action-packed thrill rides (Need for Speed, Captain America: The Winter Soldier and 300: Rise of an Empire) and other favorites (The Grand Budapest Hotel, Winter's Tale and The Hobbit: The Desolation of Smaug).

Enjoy selections from the Tribeca Film Festival, including Love Hacking, First Prize, The Bang Bang Club and Epilogue. United Airlines is proud to be the official airline of the Tribeca Film Festival.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JULY 2014

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ENTERTAINMENT

Film & Television ENJOY THESE MOVIES AND SHOWS ON THE MAIN SCREEN

CUSTOMERS ARE WELCOME to view their own video entertainment aboard a United aircraft as long as they are able to show that the programming has an MPAA rating of “R” or less.

Television SELECT FLIGHTS MAY FEATURE THE FOLLOWING TELEVISION PROGRAMMING The Big Bang Theory [T] Brain Games 3 Brooklyn Nine-Nine [T] NASA’s Unexplained Files

About a Boy FEATURING David Walton, Minnie Driver CREATED BY Jason Katims

NASA’s Unexplained Files FEATURING Leroy Chao PRESENTED BY Science Channel

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The Millers About a Boy Superheroes: A Never-Ending Battle [T] The Numbers Game

This show, based on the best-selling novel by Nick Hornby, tells the story of Will, a successful songwriter with a life full of free time, free love and freedom from ﬁnancial woes. But when a needy single mom and her oddly charming 11-year-old son move in next door, Will ﬁnds his life changing.

22 min.

Countless mysterious ﬂying objects have been caught on NASA’s cameras, and many astronauts have reported seeing UFOs. With unique NASA footage and ground-breaking interviews from both astronauts and scientists, this program explores the idea that there may be life outside our planet.

48 min.

JULY 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

05/06/2014 15:38

MOST FILMS HAVE BEEN EDITED for

FILMS ARE SHOWN on ﬂights of three

airline use. However, customer discretion is still advised. Content guidelines are provided as a courtesy to help our customers decide whether to view a ﬁlm.

hours or longer. Schedules and selections are subject to change. En el canal 10 encontrará películas y programas de televisión disponibles en Español.

Films

WHAT DO YOU THINK of our programming? We’re open to suggestions. Please send them to play@united.com or visit united.com/play.

SELECT FLIGHTS WILL SHOW THE FOLLOWING MOVIES

NORTH AMERICA, HAWAII, LATIN AMERICA & THE CARIBBEAN

EASTBOUND/SOUTHBOUND

WESTBOUND/NORTHBOUND

Divergent

Captain America: The Winter Soldier [T]

JULY 1–31

• International flights and flights between Chicago or Denver and Hawaii will also show a second film. For descriptions of those films, see page 127. • Select films are shown on flights within Micronesia and on intra-Asia flights on 737 aircraft.

Captain America: The Winter Soldier [T] FEATURING Chris Evans, Scarlett Johansson DIRECTED BY Anthony Russo, Joe Russo

Divergent [T] FEATURING Shailene Woodley, Theo James DIRECTED BY Neil Burger

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JULY 2014

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Captain America joins forces with Black Widow and a new ally, the Falcon, to expose a villainous plot while ﬁghting off assailants sent to silence them at every turn. Soon, they ﬁnd themselves up against an unexpected and formidable enemy—the Winter Soldier.

In a world where people are divided into factions based on human virtues, Tris is told that she is Divergent and will never ﬁt into any one group. When she discovers a conspiracy to destroy all of her kind, Tris must ﬁnd out what makes being Divergent so dangerous—before it’s too late.

2 hr. 10 min.

2 hr. 14 min.

109

05/06/2014 15:38

ENTERTAINMENT

DIGITAL MEDIA LOADING occurs

between the 25th of one month and the 5th of the following month. As a result, please understand if your ﬂight features a different lineup before or after the start of each month.

Film & Television THE FOLLOWING FILMS ARE AVAILABLE ON INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS

B747 Mainscreen Programming FROM U.S.

UNITED KINGDOM GERMANY

TO U.S.

Divergent [T] 2 hr., 14 min. Rio 2 1 hr., 41 min.

Captain America: The Winter Soldier [T] 2 hr., 10 min. Veronica Mars [T] 1 hr., 47 min.

2 hr.

Mr. Peabody & Sherman 1 hr., 32 min. Winter’s Tale [T] 1 hr., 58 min.

The Grand Budapest Hotel [T] 1 hr., 40 min. Labor Day [T] 1 hr., 51 min.

2 hr.

AUSTRALIA JAPAN & SOUTH KOREA CHINA & HONG KONG

2 hr.

Captain America: The Winter Soldier [T] 2 hr., 10 min. Veronica Mars [T] 1 hr., 47 min.

Divergent [T] 2 hr., 14 min. Rio 2 1 hr., 41 min.

2 hr.

The Grand Budapest Hotel [T] 1 hr., 40 min. Labor Day [T] 1 hr., 51 min.

Mr. Peabody & Sherman 1 hr., 32 min. Winter’s Tale [T] 1 hr., 58 min.

2 hr.

B767 Personal TV Economy Programming*

2 hr. = Two-hour block of television [T] = Adult themes * programming may vary based on length of route + languages will vary based on destination

CH.

EASTBOUND/SOUTHBOUND

WESTBOUND/NORTHBOUND

Divergent

Captain America: The Winter Soldier

Rio 2

Veronica Mars

The Single Moms Club

Noah

In Secret

Bad Words

DISCRETION ADVISED

RECENT FAVORITES The Amazing Spider-Man

RECENT FAVORITES The Avengers

FAMILY/KIDS The Pirate Fairy

FAMILY/KIDS Muppets Most Wanted

PRIMETIME Brain Games 3/NASA’s Unexplained Files/ Pawn Stars/Man Caves

PRIMETIME The Pitch/The Numbers Games/ Will We Soon All Be Eating In Vitro Meat?

COMEDY The Big Bang Theory/Brooklyn Nine-Nine/New Girl/ The Goldbergs/It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia

COMEDY The Millers/Two and a Half Men/ The Middle/Suburgatory/Mom

PREMIUM TELEVISION/AIRSHOW About a Boy (x5)

PREMIUM TELEVISION/AIRSHOW Fargo (x2)

*Only applicable to our 3-cabin 767-300 in Economy. If your aircraft features Video OnDemand, please use the touch screen to access content choices.

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JULY 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

05/06/2014 15:38

INTERNATIONAL LANGUAGE TRACKS (G) Synchronisierte Versionen finden Sie auf Kanal 2 und 3 (wenn verfügbar). (J) 日本語の吹き替えはチャンネル2番および３番でお聴きいただけます。（一部英語音声のみとなります。） (C) 如果可用，在第2频道和第3频道将提供语言录音 (K) 채널 2,3에서 더빙버전이 제공됩니다

Bad Words [T] A less-than-mature adult ﬁnds a loophole that allows him to enter a school spelling bee. FEATURING Jason Bateman, Kathryn Hahn, Allison Janney DIRECTED BY Jason Bateman

In Secret [T] 1 hr. 29 min.

Muppets Most Wanted Mayhem follows the Muppets overseas, as they ﬁnd themselves unwittingly entangled in an international crime caper. FEATURING Ricky Gervais, Tina Fey, Ty Burrell DIRECTED BY James Bobin

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JULY 2014

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A 19th-century Parisian woman trapped in a loveless marriage begins an affair with one of her husband’s friends. FEATURING Elizabeth Olson, Oscar Isaac, Jessica Lange DIRECTED BY Charlie Stratton

1 hr. 47 min.

Noah [T] 1 hr. 52 min.

Rio 2 Blu, Jewel and their three kids embark on a new adventure when they are hurtled from Rio to the wilds of the Amazon. VOICES BY Jesse Eisenberg, Anne Hathaway, Jamie Foxx DIRECTED BY Carlos Saldanha

(G) German (J) Japanese (C) Chinese (K) Korean (T) Thai (M) Mandarin

A man must build an ark to save the world’s creatures before a great ﬂood in this re-telling of the biblical tale. FEATURING Russell Crowe, Jennifer Connelly, Ray Winstone DIRECTED BY Darren Aronofsky

2 hr. 18 min.

Veronica Mars [T] 1 hr. 41 min.

Former teenage sleuth Veronica Mars returns to her hometown when her high school sweetheart is accused of murder. FEATURING Kristen Bell, Jason Dohring, Chris Lowell DIRECTED BY Rob Thomas

1 hr. 47 min.

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05/06/2014 15:39

CHANNEL 9 Listen for your flight number to hear live communication between the flight deck and FAA air traffic control. This feature, unique to United, may not be available on all flights, including oceanic crossings with limited audio communication. Available at your captain’s discretion.

Audio Programming Audio Channels by Aircra A319 & A320

Audio Mixes

737 & 757-300

747

757 & 767

Movie (English)

Today’s hits

Movie (Dubbed)

Today’s hits

R&B

Movie (Dubbed)

R&B

Classical

Country

—

Relaxation

—

’70s

—

’80s

From the ﬂight deck

From the ﬂight deck or R&B

—

From the ﬂight deck or Modern rock

Movie (Dubbed)

Today’s hits

Movie (Dubbed)

Relaxation

Teen pop

Modern rock

—

’70s

K-pop

Latin or J-pop on Micronesia ﬂights

—

’80s

J-pop

—

Modern rock

C-pop

—

Artist spotlight

—

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Featuring songs by Steely Dan, Tom Petty, the Bee Gees and more.

Featuring songs by Duran Duran, the Pixies, George Michael and more.

Featuring songs by the Black Keys, Sevendust, Jack White and more.

Featuring songs by Ne-Yo, Bruno Mars, Rihanna and more.

Featuring songs by Blake Shelton, Rascal Flatts, Rachele Lynae and more.

Featuring songs by Miley Cyrus, One Direction, Ariana Grande and more.

Featuring songs from today’s Top 40 artists

Featuring songs by Gloria Trevi, Juanes, Marc Anthony and more.

Featuring compositions performed by orchestras from New York to Stuttgart

Featuring relaxing sounds of nature

Featuring songs by High4, Akdong Musician, Apink and more.

Featuring songs by SEKAI NO OWARI, AKB48 and more.

Featuring Chinese popular music, including cantopop and mandopop.

Featuring a chronology of songs by Prince.

JULY 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

05/06/2014 15:39

Inflight Entertainment Personal Device Entertainment

To watch movies and TV shows with a key icon:

(Beta Test)

Laptop You may be prompted to download a browser plug-in.

Personal device entertainment, sponsored by the MileagePlus® Explorer Card, lets you access an onboard collection of your favorite movies and TV shows that you can watch on your own device during the ﬂight. Please note that personal device entertainment is currently an operational beta test. If your ﬂight is equipped with this service, please follow the instructions below to connect your device.

Apple iOS (iPad, iPhone, iPod) You’ll need the latest United app from the iTunes App Store. An Internet connection is required for download. Support for Android and other devices is coming soon.

To watch movies and TV shows without a key icon:

1. Connect Turn on Wi-Fi and select the “United_Wi-Fi” hotspot. Open your browser, go to unitedwifi.com.*

2. Browse Select Entertainment and choose from a selection of movies and TV shows. *United Wi-Fi Internet is not required.

There’s no need to install a special plug-in or app to watch this content. Apple, iPad, iPhone, iPod, iTunes, and App Store are trademarks of Apple Inc. Android is a trademark of Google Inc. If traveling on a 737 aircraft equipped with this service, please consult seatback card for connection instructions.

WE’RE ON A MISSION to bring easy connectivity and enjoyment to your United ﬂights. All United mainline aircraft will

feature Wi-Fi and extensive entertainment choices. So whether you’ve got work to do or just want to enjoy a Hollywood blockbuster, we’ll have what you need. We appreciate your patience as we continue to make improvements. United plans to offer the following features and entertainment choices across our ﬂeet. Inflight Improvements UNITED WI-FI

Satellite-fed Wi-Fi will be available over land and sea on nearly all United mainline aircraft by the end of 2014 (fee applies).

Coming Soon All United mainline aircraft

PERSONAL DEVICE ENTERTAINMENT (BETA TEST)

Expansive library of movies, TV shows, and more, streamed to your personal device. An Internet connection is not required for use. OR

All United mainline aircraft

ON-DEMAND SEATBACK ENTERTAINMENT

Expansive library of movies, TV shows and more, displayed on a seatback screen. Select aircraft will offer more than 100 channels of live TV (fee applies). POWER OUTLETS

Charge your device in-ﬂight, available in premium cabins and Economy Plus on all aircraft, and throughout the aircraft on select ﬂeets.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JULY 2014

p112-113_HEM0714_Audio.indd 113

All United mainline aircraft

113

05/06/2014 15:39

ENTERTAINMENT

ALL THEME CLUES ARE IN BOLD If you ﬁll in the crossword, please take the magazine with you so it’s replaced. Answers on page 61

Crossword DOES YOUR COOKING MEASURE UP? BY GREG BRUCE

JULY 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

ACROSS 1 Prospector’s test 6 Smooch 10 One of SoCal’s many governing bodies 14 64 Tablespoons 19 UK cents 20 Pedestal topper 21 Pal 22 Loosen, as laces 23 Commence 24 Rural route 25 Music of India 26 Scent 27 Mark’s successor 28 Serious people lack this in chatrooms 29 Bucks’ mates 31 A person in total despair 33 A ﬁve-sided polygon 36 Distillery items 38 Vote seeker 39 FYI part 40 Canine’s coat 42 Radiant 46 Veneer 48 Snaky swimmers 49 Down with the ﬂu 51 Drink in a mug 52 Delay 53 Sorority letter 55 “___ to Joy” 56 Morning sizzler 58 Stand for 60 Horse handler 63 Embarrassed 65 Governmental go-getter 68 It’s next to nothing 69 Rant and rave 70 Minister: Abbr. 71 Thirteen 75 Flow’s partner 78 Mythological shield 80 Compete (for) 81 Captivate 84 Durable wood 87 Way out 90 Provide 91 Baggy 92 Physicist’s study 94 Concern 97 African antelope

p114-116_HEM0714_Puzzles.indd 114

98 “Give it ___!” 99 Road crew’s supply 100 Bad to the bone 102 Place for a lace 104 Toasty feeling 107 Ledger column 109 La Scala highlight 110 Member of the ﬂock 111 Head hunters? 112 Anise-ﬂavored liqueur 116 Desirous of 120 Pie crust ingredient 122 Mimic 123 Genuine 125 Like krypton 126 Bound 128 60’s do 130 “That’s it!” 131 Stiff-upper-lip type 132 Prod 133 NASA scrub 134 ___ tube 135 Small amount 136 Shade provider 137 Eager 138 Santa Claus feature

DOWN 1 Basilica feature 2 Arrangement 3 Entrap 4 NASCAR or NASDAQ 5 “Are we there ___?” 6 About 2.2 pounds 7 Popular potato 8 “My boy” 9 Husky burden 10 Coaster riders’ sounds 11 Pure 12 Summer mo. 13 F.B.I. operative 14 Edible clam 15 Ready a sleeping bag 16 Mounted on 17 “The ___ of the Ancient Mariner” 18 Eye drop 28 Spa feature 30 Track shape 32 Milky gem 34 ___ water (cologne) 35 Must-haves

37 Went down 41 Orderly 43 For one 44 Lotion ingredient 45 Sew up 46 Part of a mechanic’s bill 47 Nimble 50 Get a rise out of? 52 Napkin’s place 54 Schedule an engagement 55 Nabisco cookie 56 Embargo 57 To the rear 59 Frogmen 61 “The Biggest ___” 62 Football lineman 64 Out of shape 66 Nile bird

67 Medicinal shrub 72 Roulette bet 73 18-wheeler 74 Gusto 76 Symbol of authority 77 Not sharp 79 “Gosh!” 82 In this place 83 Bucharest money 84 Cat’s scratcher 85 Mat exercise 86 Poverty-stricken 88 Give off 89 Latin dance 93 Kind of testimony 95 What “t” can mean 96 Lofty nest (var.) 99 Not now

100 One that got away 101 Swerve 103 Where the Army goes 105 Kind of unit 106 Muscle spasm 108 Silo contents 113 Trash hauler 114 Reddish brown dye 115 Raring to go 116 Bit of smoke 117 Oppositionist 118 Light on Broadway 119 Overabundance 121 Musty 124 Lady’s man 127 Make a goof 129 Adversary 130 Chest protector

CROSSWORD © PUZPUZ PUZZLES

114

06/06/2014 10:48

“BE PART OF THE WORLD’S LARGEST AIRLINE SURVEY”

AS A VALUED GUEST, WE INVITE YOU TO JOIN THE GLOBAL PASSENGER SURVEY, THE LARGEST INDEPENDENT AIRLINE SURVEY EVER CARRIED OUT LOOKING INTO PASSENGER EXPERIENCE. GPS, is a truly global survey, with a footprint spanning six continents with 40 airlines. Insights from your feedback will help airlines improve their services to passengers. Participants will be entered in a prize draw for the chance to win an iPad. The survey will take ﬁve minutes - if you participate, your information and opinions will only be used for research. How to get started? Please type the link into your browser to access the survey

http://www.gps-pax.com/pax_ua.asp Or scan the QR code (above) and to enter the prize draw to win an iPad.”

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ENTERTAINMENT

Sudoku THE NUMBERS GAME BY REIKO MCLAUGHLIN

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JULY 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

1. EASY

2. MEDIUM

ANSWERS 1.

3. MEDIUM

4. HARD

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CHARLESTON Q CORPUS CHRISTI Q DALLAS DENVER Q FT. LAUDERDALE Q HOUSTON LAS VEGAS Q LOS ANGELES Q PHOENIX RENO Q SAN ANTONIO Q TAMPA Q TUCSON – COMING SOON: EL PASO AND BOISE – WWW.G WWW GRIMALDISPIZZERIA RIMALDISPIZZERIA.COM COM

p114-116_HEM0714_Puzzles.indd 116

06/06/2014 10:47

Rick L. Kline, DDS General Dentist

Bret C. Davis, DMD General Dentist Daniella Rodriguez Miss Texas Teen USA 2013

Lauren Guzman Miss Texas USA 2014

SmileTexas™

offers solutions to those needing cosmetic, reconstructive, or implant dentistry. Guests routinely À\ IURP DURXQG WKH ZRUOG WR YLVLW SmileTexas™ because they trust the extensive experience of our doctors and staff.

A Few Days In Houston Gets You A Smile As Big As Texas! ®

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11/06/2014 16:40

How to get around Miami-Dade County

for just $4.18 a day* Miami-Dade Transit has changed the rules with the $29.25 7-Day Pass EASY Card or EASY Ticket.

etting around Miami-Dade County on public transit has never been easier on your budget. With the 7-Day Pass loaded on an EASY Card or EASY Ticket you enjoy a week’s worth of unlimited rides on our Metrorail and Metrobus systems for just $29.25.

serves the Brickell Business District, as well as iconic Downtown destinations along Biscayne Boulevard and the cultural centers bordering trendy Midtown Miami. Spectacular Miami views are included at no extra charge.

Add to that Metromover, our free people-mover system, and free trolley services offered by local municipalities and you have Miami’s absolute best travel value for your dollar.

The EASY Card or EASY Ticket makes paying your fare, well, easy

Your savings start right at the airport Since 2012, Metrorail serves Miami Interr national Airport, arriving and departing from beautiful, state-of-the-art, MIA Metrorail Station. If you’re at the airport, take the free MIA Mover from the terminal to the station, transfer to Metrorail, and you’ll arrive in Downtown Miami about 15 minutes after your train departs. If you’re headed to Miami Beach, go downstairs at MIA Metrorail Station to the Metrobus terminal and hop aboard Metrobus Route 150, the Miami Beach Airport Flyer. You’ll travel non-stop from the airport to the Beach across the Julia Tuttle Causeway, with spectacular views of Biscayne Bay. Once in Miami Beach, the Flyer offers limited-stop service along Collins and Washington avenues all the way south to the end of South Beach. Parking hassles not included.

Make it a wild dayy att Zoo Miaami on Ro outte 252, thee Coral Reef MAX. Or keep going south onn Metrobus Routes 34 Busway Flyer and 38 Busway MAX all the way to Homestead and Floridda City. Top off ff the adventure in the Florida Keys on Route 301, the Dade Monroe Express, from Florida City.

Metrobus has Miami Beach covered

Travel between Downtown Miami and Miami Beach by taking the limited-stop Metrobus Route 120 Beach MAX, or local routes A, C, M or S. Explore South Beach on the Sobe Local shuttle bus. A wide array of Metrobus routes serve the length of Miami Beach and beyond, all the way to popular oceanside destinations like Bal Harbour, Haulover Beach and Sunny Isles.

Your savings span the County

Use Metrorail as a springboard to explore shopping in Dadeland or South Miami, or sightseeing in Coconut Grove or Coral Gables. You’ll ﬁnd plenty of convenient Metrobus and local trolley connections at each station.

The possibilities are almost endless. Want to explore Downtown Miami? Metromover

Savings as far north as Palm Beach, as far south as the Florida Keys

Just a tap of your loaded EASY Card or EASY Ticket at a Metrobus farebox or Metrorail faregate and you’re good to go. The EASY Card and EASY Ticket are available at any EASY Card Vending Machine. Pay with your Visa, MasterCard or American Express card, or cash. EASY Card Vending Machines are located at all Metrorail stations. And our network of EASY Card Sales Outlets, where you can also buy and reload a Card or Ticket, spans the entire county.

Plan your trip, stay connected Explore maps and schedules, ﬁnd an EASY Card Sales Outlet, and more, at www.miamidade. gov/transit. Download the free Miami-Dade Transit Tracker app from iTunes or Google Play. Find us on Facebook and follow us on Twitter. Or call Customer Services at 1-888-311-DADE (3233). Plan your trip today and see how much you’ll save going with Miami-Dade Transit.

At Metrorail’s Tri-Rail Station, transfer to the Tri-Rail commuter train and travel north to Broward and Palm Beach counties (if you’re using an EASY Card, you can load your Tri-Rail fare on it). Visit www.tri-rail.com for details. Headed south? You can extend your trip far beyond Metrorail and enjoy the speed and convenience of Bus Rapid Transit on the South Miami-Dade Busway, starting at Dadeland South Station. The platform at MIA Metrorail Station

www.miamidade.gov/transit 1-888-311-DADE (3233)

Metromover over Biscayne Boulevard

@IRideMDT

MiamiDadeTransit

*Figure based on the cost of 7-Day Pass prorated over one week. Does not include transfers to Tri-Rail or Broward County Transit systems.

No.37955_Miami_Dade_Transit 1pp.indd 1

10/04/2014 14:48

8:00 pm 9:00 pm 10:00 pm

7:00 pm

Route Maps

12:00 MON.

11:00 pm

Route lines do not reﬂect actual ﬂight path

United/United Express

2:00 am

ARCTIC OCEAN

3:00 am

5:00 am

6:00 am

7:00 am

8:00 am

9:00 am

11:00 am

10:00 am

12:00 pm

4:00 am

ARCTIC OCEAN

Lulea Fairbanks Reykjavik

ICELAND

Umea Trondheim Ostersund Kristiansund Vaasa Molde SWEDEN

NORWAY

Anchorage

CANADA

Khabarovsk Harbin

Urumqi

U.S.A.

Sapporo

Edinburgh

Hohhot Beijing

Baotou

JAPAN

N. KOREA

Pyongyang

Dalian

Tianjin

Niigata

Sendai

SAN FRANCISCO

Seoul S. KOREA Komatsu TOKYO (NRT) Tokyo/Haneda (HND) Pusan Fukuoka Osaka Nagoya Nanjing Cheju Okayama Hefei Nagasaki Shanghai Hiroshima Chengdu Wuhan Kumamoto Kochi Oita 6:00 Hangzhou Ningbo Kagoshima Chongqing Matsuyama Changsha Wenzhou Miyazaki Nanchang Guiyang BHUTAN Fuzhou Guwahati Guangzhou Okinawa Kunming Taipei Xiamen BANGLADESH Guilin Agartala Nanning Macau Shenzhen Ishigaki Dhaka BURMA Hanoi Hong Kong TAIWAN Chiang Rai LAOS Haikou Chiang Mai Vientiane 9:00 pm COMMONWEALTH OF THAILAND Yangon South China NORTHERN MARIANA ISLANDS Khon Kaen Sea Saipan Luzon Island Bangkok CAMBODIA Manila 5:30 Rota Siem Reap Zhengzhou

Penang

PHILIPPINES

VIETNAM

Phnom Penh Krabi Phuket Hat Yai

Qingdao

MARSHALL ISLANDS

Kwajalein Chuuk (Truk)

Palau

FEDERATED STATES OF MICRONESIA

Bandar Seri Begawan

Kuala Lumpur

Chihuahua

Pohnpei

Kota Kinabalu

MALAYSIA

BRUNEI N

Majuro

Honolulu

San Antonio

CANARY ISLANDS

Tenerife Las Palmas

Medellin

Bucaramanga

MONT.

GUINEA BISSAU

NIGER

Astana Donetzk

GUINEA

Conakry Freetown

SIERRA LEONE

Monrovia LIBERIA

Fortaleza

BENIN TOGO

U. A. E.

Khartoum

CAMEROON CENTRAL AFRICAN REPUBLIC Douala

Accra Lome Abidjan Malabo

EQUATORIAL GUINEA

Sao Tome SAO TOME & PRINCIPE

Apia

Lima

Pago Pago

Entebbe

WESTERN SAMOA

Port Vila

FIJI

Cairns

FRENCH POLYNESIA

Nadi

RWANDA

Noumea

to San Francisco

1:00 Norfolk Island

Gold Coast

9:30 pm

Adelaide

Sydney

Melbourne

Nelson

NEW ZEALAND Queenstown

p119-124_HEM0614_Routemaps.indd 135

Rotorua Napier-Hastings

Palmerston North Wellington Blenheim Christchurch

Dunedin

World time zones shown in Standard Time. 9:00 pm

10:00 pm

11:00 pm

to New York (Newark)

Belo Horizonte

to Washington (Dulles)

1:00 am

2:00 am

3:00 am

4:00 am

5:00 am

Rio de Janeiro

Windhoek

BOTSWANA

Bermuda

Mahé

TANZANIA

URUGUAY Montevideo Buenos Aires

VENEZUELA

6:00 am

7:00 am

8:00 am

9:00 am

INDIAN OCEAN

SEYCHELLES

Dar Es Salaam

3:00 pm

4:00 pm

6:00 pm

5:00 pm

COMOROS MALAWI

Lilongwe Atlantic Harare Ocean

Manzini SCOTLAND

Bergen

NORWAY

FINLAND

Oslo SWEDEN

Helsinki

Stockholm ESTONIA

Stavanger MADAGASCAR Aberdeen

Maputo

Bloemfontein Maseru

SOUTH AFRICA

IRELAND LESOTHO

Aalborg

Gothenburg

LATVIA

DENMARK

Aarhus Billund Esbjerg

Riga Copenhagen Malmo

Palanga LITHUANIA RUSSIA

Vilnius Bremen Hamburg POLAND BELARUS East London Dublin WALES Berlin ENGLAND NETH. Hannover Cape Town Shannon Birmingham Amsterdam Warsaw Port Muenster Elizabeth Cork GERMANY Leipzig London BELGIUM Dresden Bristol London Brussels Prague (Gatwick) Katowice Cologne Frankfurt UKRAINE CZECH Cities served by select airline Luxembourg Nuremberg REPUBLIC SLOVAKIA partners that are not visible Stuttgart Munich Paris on the map: Salzburg Basel Linz Vienna Budapest FRANCE AUSTRIA Manzini, Swaziland Friedrichshafen Klagenfurt Cluj-Napoca SWITZ. Durban, South Africa Ljubljana Geneva Verona Lyon Zagreb Venice Bucharest Maputo, Mozambique Trieste BOS. ROMANIA Turin Milan Bologna Harare, Zimbabwe HERZ. Belgrade Genoa Florence Toulouse Sarajevo Lilongwe, Malawi La Coruna SERBIA BULGARIA Marseille Nice Pisa Ancona Split KOS. Bilbao Sofia Dubrovnik Skopje Istanbul Rome ALBANIA MAC. SPAIN Barcelona Porto Naples ITALY Thessaloniki Madrid PORTUGAL Valencia Alexandroupolis Palma GREECE Ibiza La Romana Palermo Alicante Lisbon Mediterranean Sea Izmir Sevilla Mikonos Faro Rhodes MALTA Luga Heraklion

Porto Alegre

Santiago

MALDIVES

Glasgow Edinburgh SWAZILAND NORTHERN Newcastle IRELAND UNITED Belfast Durban KINGDOM

Johannesburg

ARGENTINA

Coimbatore

SRI LANKA

KENYA

MOZAMBIQUE ZIMBABWE

NAMIBIA Gaborone

Piedras Saltillo Negras Monterrey Torreon Matamoros Durango MEXICO Ciudad Victoria

COLOMBIA

12:00 MIDNIGHT

PARAGUAY

to New York (Newark)

Santiago Samana Santo Domingo Nassau Aguadilla San Juan Havana Culebra Los Cabos Tampico Vieques Providenciales Aguascalientes Queretaro St. Thomas Tepic Cozumel Poza Rica Tortola Puerto Plata Virgin Gorda Jalapa Grand Cayman Puerto Vallarta Ciudad del Anguilla Manzanillo Veracruz Carmen Mexico Montego St. Maarten City Puebla Guadalajara Belize Bay Ponce Punta Antigua Oaxaca Kingston Morelia Cana Roatan Pointe a Pitre Lazaro Mayagüez St. Kitts San Pedro Sula Cardenas Martinique Huatulco Nevis Puerto St. Lucia Tegucigalpa Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo Escondido Villahermosa Barbados San Andres Aruba Acapulco Bonaire Island Guatemala City NIC. Grenada Tobago San Salvador COSTA Caracas Port-of-Spain Managua RICA Panama City PACIFIC OCEAN Liberia PANAMA

Auckland Hamilton

to Cleveland

HOUSTON (INTERCONTINENTAL) San Austin Chihuahua Antonio Guaymas

Tasman Sea

to Denver

to Los Angeles

Perth

8:00 pm

CHILE

Rarotonga

NEW CALEDONIA Brisbane

7:00 pm

10:00 am

Brasilia

ZAMBIA Lusaka

Nuku’ Alofa

AUSTRALIA

6:00 pm

ANGOLA

Bangalore Chennai (Madras)

Kozhikode Cochin Trivandrum

BURUNDI

2:00 pm

Santa Cruz

Papeete

Niue

BOLIVIA

Mangalore

Nairobi

Bujumbura

Recife

Salvador Cuzco

Goa

Arabian Sea

Colombo

Lubumbashi

Coral Sea

YEMEN

SOMALIA

Kigali

Kinshasa

Raipur

ETHIOPIA

UGANDA

Libreville GABON CONGO

Pune

Mumbai

Addis Ababa

Juba

DEM. REP. CONGO

Yaounde

Kolkata

Nagpur

4:00 pm

NIGERIA

SOUTH SUDAN

INDIA

Ahmedabad

DJIBOUTI

Kano

Luanda

Darwin

Muscat OMAN

Sanaa

Asmara

SUDAN

Pointe Noire

BRAZIL

ERITREA

Abuja Cotonou Port Harcourt GHANA Lagos

Denpasar Bali

INDIAN OCEAN

KAZAKHSTAN

Krasnodar

SERB. Sofia KOS.

CHAD

1:00 pm

GAMBIA Bamako BURKINA FASO Ouagadougou Bissau

ATLANTIC OCEAN

PERU

6:00 pm

SAUDI ARABIA

MALI

SENEGAL

Manaus

Guayaquil

PAPUA NEW GUINEA

Jakarta

Dakar Banjul

FRENCH GUIANA

ECUADOR

4:00

EGYPT

MAURITANIA Sal CAPE VERDE ISLANDS

Quito

PACIFIC OCEAN

Ekaterinburg

Jeddah

SURINAME GUYANA

Cali

Kosrae

ALGERIA

WESTERN SAHARA

VENEZUELA

Oran

MOROCCO Bermuda

COLOMBIA

Nador

Funchal

Saltillo Monterrey Santo Torreon Nassau Domingo Durango MEXICO Tampico Aguadilla Los Cabos Aguascalientes Providenciales San Juan Queretaro Cozumel Puerto Mexico City St. Thomas Plata Veracruz Ciudad del Grand Cayman Puerto Vallarta Santiago St. Maarten Manzanillo Carmen Puebla Montego Antigua Belize Punta Guadalajara Bay Oaxaca Cana Roatan Morelia Huatulco San Pedro Sula Tegucigalpa Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo St. Lucia Aruba Villahermosa San Andrés Acapulco Guatemala City Bonaire NIC. Barranquilla Port-of-Spain Panama San Salvador COSTA City Maracaibo Caracas Managua RICA Valencia PANAMACartagena Cucata Liberia

Singapore

Algiers

12:00 Casablanca

GUAM Yap

WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES)

DENVER

Madrid

Lisbon

Horta

Moscow

Alma-Ata Black Sea Bishkek UZBEKISTAN GEORGIATbilisi Skopje Baku 5:00 Batumi Istanbul KYRGYZSTAN Tashkent Tirana ARMENIA Ankara AZER. TURKMENISTAN Kayseri ALB. GREECE Izmir Dushanbe TURKEYYerevan TAJIKISTAN Athens Antalya Adana Gaziantep Bodrum Ashgabat Erbil Tunis Malta Rhodes Ercan Larnaca AFGHAN. Islamabad CYPRUS Beirut Mashad Tehran TUNISIA Mediterranean Sea LEBANON Jammu Peshawar SYRIA Baghdad Damascus Tripoli Tel Aviv IRAN 4:30 Lahore Amritsar Amman IRAQ Benghazi Alexandria ISRAEL Chandigarh 3:30 Kathmandu JORDAN Kuwait 5:00 Cairo Delhi NEPAL PAKISTAN Dammam 2:00 pm QATAR Jaipur LIBYA Lucknow Bahrain Luxor Dubai Karachi Riyadh Doha Indore 5:30 Patna Abu Dhabi Rome

Barcelona

PORTUGAL

NEW YORK (NEWARK)

HOUSTON Austin (INTERCONTINENTAL)

Cebu

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)

Cleveland

LOS ANGELES

International Date Line

CHINA

5:00 pm

4:00

Manchester

SPAIN

CHICAGO (O’HARE)

RUSSIA

St. Petersburg

Tallinn

Stockholm

HER.

Shenyang

FINLAND Helsinki

n Sea pia as

Changchun

Oulu

2:00 pm

Riga LAT. Copenhagen LITH. Malmo Vilnius Belfast Hamburg Gdansk Minsk Dublin Amsterdam BELARUS Berlin Shannon GERMANY Warsaw Brussels Cork POLAND Kiev Birmingham London Krakow Frankfurt Stuttgart UKRAINE Kosice Munich Paris MOLDOVA Chisinau AUSTRIA SWITZ. FRANCE Odessa Zagreb ROMANIA Geneva Milan BOS.- Belgrade Bucharest

9:30 2:00

Turku

Oslo

UNITED KINGDOM Glasgow

MONGOLIA

Alta

GREENLAND ALASKA (U.S.)

Hudson Bay

8:00 pm

3:00 pm

2:00 pm

Tromso

RUSSIA

Ulaanbataar

1:00 pm

MIDNIGHT

United Seasonal Service United Future Service CITY United Hub (Red All Caps) Cities served Cities served by select airline partners Time zone boundary

INTERNATIONAL CITIES

1:00 am

12:00 SUN.

10:00 am

11:00 am

12:00 NOON

1:00 pm

Gdansk

Kaliningrad

Manchester

0714

05/06/2014 15:41

Cullaton Lake Ennadai Lake Prince Rupert

Route Maps

Smithers Terrace

Sand Spit

NORTH AMERICAN CITIES

Fort St. John

Route lines do not reﬂect actual ﬂight path

Fort McMurray Prince George

to Fairbanks

INFORMATION

United Seasonal Service United Future Service CITY United Hub (Red All Caps) Cities served Cities served by select airline partners Time zone boundary

United/United Express Route

Customs & Immigration U.S. AND GUAM INTERNATIONAL ARRIVALS/ EXPEDITED SCREENING THROUGH CBP AND TSA

Grande Prairie

Arrivals in the U.S.

Goose Bay

to Anchorage

Paciﬁc Time Zone 4:00

BRITISH C O LU M B I A

Mountain Time Zone 5:00

Kamloops

Vancouver

Nanaimo

Central Time Zone 6:00

A L B E R TA

Kelowna Penticton

Victoria

C A N A DA

Edmonton

Calgary

Newfoundland Time Zone 8:30

Wabush

MANITOBA

Gander

Deer Lake

Pasco

Missoula

Eugene

PACIFIC OCEAN

Gaspe

U.S. Customs Declaration

OREGON

Medford

Eureka

Bathurst

Redding

Minot N O R T H Devils Lake DA KO TA

U N I T E D S TAT E S

Chico

Eastern Time Zone 7:00

Williston Thunder Bay

MINNE SOTA

Presque Isle Timmins Rouyn-Noranda

MAINE

North Bay

Sault Ste. Marie

Maui

9. Airline and Flight Number 11. Country Where You Boarded

0 0

50 50

100

Kona

16. Telephone Number in the U.S. Where You Can be Reached 17. Email Address

All passengers (or one passenger per family) are required to complete a Customs Declaration before arrival in the U.S. Write in English, in capital letters. Be sure to include the street name Left: U.S. I-94 Arrival/Departure and number, city and state of Record, which all Guam-CNMI your address in the U.S. If you are Visa Waiver Program participants must complete; right: U.S. Customs transiting through the U.S., you Declaration may write TRANSIT and your ﬁnal destination country. Please read both sides of the declaration and place your signature at the bottom of the form.

100

Bangor Bar Harbor

Atlantic Time Zone 8:00

Halifax

V T. Plattsburgh N.H. Burlington

Kingston

Traverse City

LOUISIANA

Lake Charles Lafayette

Mobile

Portland

Arrivals in Chicago—OneStop Lanes Minimize Your Walk If you did not check any bags, proceed to the OneStop lanes, regardless of your nationality or ﬁnal destination. Global Entry kiosks are available here.

Arrivals in Houston—OneStop Lanes Minimize Your Walk If you did not check any bags, proceed to the OneStop lanes, regardless of your nationality or ﬁnal destination. If you checked a bag and are

Ft. Walton Gulfport/ Beach New Biloxi Orleans

is a TSA-managed and -operated expedited screening initiative available in many U.S. airports. Beneﬁts may include no longer removing the following items when going through airport security: shoes, light outerwear/jacket, belt, 3-1-1–compliant bag from carry-on, and laptop from bag.

TSA Pre

BERMUDA

MileagePlus Eligible Service

Jacksonville

Boston F L O R I DA

Orlando

150

200 Kilometers

Tampa/St. Petersburg

Hilo

100

0 0

100

200

200 300

300 400

500

400 Miles

McAllen

MEXICO

Harlingen Brownsville

Treasure Cay Marsh Harbour Ft. Lauderdale/Hollywood North Eleuthera Governors Harbour Miami Bimini Nassau

Sarasota/Bradenton West Palm Beach

Corpus Christi

Gulf Of Mexico

Ft. Myers

Newark (Liberty)

New Haven Stamford New York (Penn Station)

Philadelphia Wilmington Washington, DC

BAHAMAS

immediately connecting to another United-operated international ﬂight, proceed to the OneStop lanes, regardless of your nationality. Global Entry kiosks are available here.

Expedited Passport Control and Customs Clearance in the U.S.—Global Entry™ CBP offers the Global Entry™ program in order to expedite the processing of pre-approved, low-risk international travelers entering the U.S. Upon returning from travel abroad, Global Entry™–enrolled travelers may bypass the regular passport control line and proceed to the Global Entry™ kiosk. Global Entry™ program participants scan their machine-readable passport, U.S. permanent resident card or U.S. visa on the kiosk, place their fingertips on the scanner for fingerprint verification and make a customs declaration. The kiosk will issue the traveler a transaction receipt and direct the traveler to baggage claim and exit. Kiosks are located at major U.S. airports, as well as at several CBP Pre-Clearance locations. The following travelers are eligible for enrollment in Global Entry™: • Citizens and residents of the U.S. • Citizens of Mexico who hold a U.S. visa • Citizens of the Netherlands who are enrolled in Privium • Citizens of South Korea who are enrolled in SES (Smart Entry Service) • Citizens of Panama who hold a U.S. visa • Members of NEXUS or SENTRI

Application for enrollment in Global Entry™ is available at the Global On-Line Enrollment System: goes-app.cbp.dhs.gov. It costs only $100, which covers enrollment for a ﬁve-year period. The government will review the applicant’s information while a background investigation is conducted. Applicants undergo an interview with CBP officers at an Enrollment Center in the U.S. before ﬁnal approval is granted. MileagePlus provides a payment code to eligible Global Services, Premier 1K and Premier Platinum members, to be used as a form of payment for new Global Entry applications. Eligible members may request the payment code on united.com prior to beginning the Global Entry application process. To verify your eligibility and request your payment code, please visit united.com/web/en-US/apps/mileage plus/globalentry/default.aspx or united.com/premier. Global Entry members who are U.S. citizens or Canadian citizens who are members of NEXUS are also eligible to participate in the TSA Pre program. TSA Pre allows select passengers traveling within the U.S. to qualify for expedited screening through TSA checkpoints at several airports. For detailed information, go to the CBP site, globalentry.gov. TM

Expedited Screening Through the U.S. Transportation Security Administration (TSA)

Codeshare/MileagePlus Partner Service

Pensacola

STAPLE HERE

All travelers entering Guam under the terms of the Guam-CNMI Visa Waiver Program are required to complete an I-94 Arrival/Departure Record (one per person, including infants); an I-736 (one per person, including infants); and a Guam Customs Declaration (one per family). All other travelers need only complete a Guam Customs Declaration. All forms must be completed in English, in capital letters. Be sure to include the street name and number, city and state of your address in Guam. If you are transiting through Guam, you may write TRANSIT and your ﬁnal destination country. The Customs and Border Protection officer will place the I-94 Departure Record in your passport after inspection. Make sure you return the Departure Record to the airline representative before boarding your return ﬂight.

N E W YO R K

MISSISSIPPI

Baton Rouge

20. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY)

Arrivals in Guam

N OVA SCOTIA

Train Routes

Laredo

150 Miles

OMB No. 1651-0111

CBP Form I-94 (05/08)

Appleton/ Fox Cities

HOUSTON San Antonio (INTERCONTINENTAL) Beaumont/ Pt. Arthur

13. Date Issued (DD/MM/YY)

15. City and State

Who is eligible • Select United Airlines MileagePlus members (eligibility is determined by the TSA) • U.S. citizens who are members of a Customs and Border Protection Trusted Traveler Program—Global Entry, NEXUS or SENTRI • Canadian citizens who are members of NEXUS • TSA Pre application program members • Members of the U.S. Armed Forces and DoD and U.S. Coast Guard civilian employees • Passengers 12 and younger are allowed through TSA Pre lanes with eligible passengers TM

Paciﬁc Ocean

5. Sex (Male or Female) 7. Passport Expiration Date (DD/MM/YY)

8. Passport Number 10. Country Where You Live

19. First (Given) Name

Ottawa

WISCONSIN

Wausau Minneapolis Eau Claire Green Bay

College Station Alexandria

Austin

Honolulu Kahului

3. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY)

6. Passport Issue Date (DD/MM/YY)

21. Country of Citizenship

Moncton

Saint John

Sudbury

Houghton

Duluth

Sioux Falls

Casper Chadron W YO M I N G

Killeen Kapalua

2. First (Given) Name 4. Country of Citizenship

CBP Form I-94 (05/08)

Îles de la Madeleine

Manchester Toronto Syracuse M I C H I GA N Albany Midland/ Boston Rochester Ithaca Muskegon Grand Saginaw Sarnia Buffalo/ Hartford/M A S S . Hyannis Sacramento Reno/Tahoe Rock Springs Milwaukee Rapids Niagara Falls Binghamton SpringfieldR.I. Flint I OWA Nantucket C.T. Providence London JamestownElmira Scottsbluff Lansing SAN FRANCISCO Madison Salt Lake City Wilkes Barre/ Alliance White Detroit Windsor Laramie South Erie Bradford Scranton San Jose Vernal Hayden/ Plains NEBRASKA Cedar Mammoth Lakes Cheyenne Bend/Elkhart/ Cleveland New York (La Guardia) Franklin Rapids/ Mishawaka Omaha Steamboat Fresno N.J. North Platte U TA H (J.F. Kennedy) State Des PA Iowa City Akron/Canton Springs COLORADO Monterey Allentown Grand College Moines NEW YORK (NEWARK) Dubois Visalia OHIO Peoria Junction Vail/Eagle DENVER Ft. Philadelphia Kearney Pittsburgh CA L I F O R N I A Moline Harrisburg Lincoln Moab Wayne Columbus Johnstown Aspen McCook Atlantic City Altoona MD ILLINOIS I N D I A NA Morgantown Colorado Springs St. George Baltimore D E L . San Luis Obispo Montrose Dayton Gunnison/ Bakersfield Clarksburg WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES) Springfield Indianapolis Crested Hays Las Vegas Telluride Parkersburg Shenandoah Butte Santa Maria Page/ Cincinnati WV Valley (Reagan National) Cortez Pueblo Durango Kansas City K A N S A S Topeka Lake Powell St. Louis Santa Barbara Charlottesville Burbank Charleston Louisville Alamosa Garden City Lewisburg Richmond Farmington Great Bend LOS ANGELES Lexington Beckley Ontario Dodge City Norfolk/Virginia Beach Wichita Orange County Roanoke V I R G I N I A KENTUCKY Liberal A R I Z O NA Santa Fe Springfield Carlsbad Prescott Greensboro/High Point/Winston-Salem Palm Springs Raleigh/Durham NORTH M I S S O U R I Paducah Amarillo Show Low Tulsa San Diego Knoxville CA R O L I NA Albuquerque Nashville Northwest Phoenix/Scottsdale Oklahoma City Charlotte Arkansas Asheville Fayetteville/Ft. Bragg TENNESSEE Yuma ARKANSAS Greenville/ OKLAHOMA Spartanburg Memphis Lubbock Little NEW MEXICO Tucson Rock Huntsville/ Columbia Myrtle Beach Decatur SOUTH Atlanta CA R O L I NA Hobbs Charleston Dallas/ Birmingham El Paso Fort Worth Dallas (Love) Monroe Midland/ ATLANTIC GEORGIA Odessa Jackson Shreveport TEXAS Savannah A L A BA M A OCEAN Tyler Pierre Huron

Riverton

N E VA DA

1. Family Name

See Other Side

Fredericton

City

O N TA R I O

Dickinson Bismarck Fargo Billings Cody/ Boise Jamestown Yellowstone Sheridan Idaho Falls Sun Valley SOUTH Gillette Worland St. Cloud Rapid City DA KO TA Jackson Hole

Crescent City

OMB No. 1651-0111

000000000 00

18. Family Name

P R I N C E E DWARD Sydney NEW ISLAND B RU N SW I C K Charlottetown

Saguenay

Glasgow

Lewistown M O N TA NA Bozeman

I DA H O

CBP Form I-94 (05/08)

Admission Number

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection

Gulf Of St. Lawrence

Mont-Joli

Regina

Helena Redmond

5 U.S.C. § 552a(e)(3) Privacy Act Notice: Information collected on this form is required by Title 8 of the U.S. Code, including the INA (8 U.S.C. 1103, 1187), and 8 CFR 235.1, 264, and 1235.1. The purposes for this collection are to give the terms of admission and document the arrival and departure of nonimmigrant aliens to the U.S. The information solicited on this form may be made available to other government agencies for law enforcement purposes or to assist DHS in determining your admissibility. All nonimmigrant aliens seeking admission to the U.S., unless otherwise exempted, must provide this information. Failure to provide this information may deny you entry to the United States and result in your removal.

Arrival Record

Admission Number

Baie-Comeau

Great Falls

North Bend

When all items are completed, present this form to the CBP Officer. Item 9 - If you are entering the United States by land, enter LAND in this space. If you are entering the United States by ship, enter SEA in this space.

Departure Record

Winnipeg

Portland

This form is in two parts. Please complete both the Arrival Record (Items 1 through 17) and the Departure Record (Items 18 through 21).

000000000 00

Castlegar Cranbrook Lethbridge Medicine Hat Spokane Kalispell

WA S H I N GT O N

Type or print legibly with pen in ALL CAPITAL LETTERS. Use English. Do not write on the back of this form.

14. Address While in the United States (Number and Street)

NEWFOUNDLAND & LABRADOR

S A S K AT C H E WA N

OMB No. 1651-0111

Welcome to the United States I-94 Arrival/Departure Record Instructions This form must be completed by all persons except U.S. Citizens, returning resident aliens, aliens with immigrant visas, and Canadian Citizens visiting or in transit.

12. City Where Visa Was Issued

Saskatoon Seattle

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection

U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) has automated the I-94 Arrival/Departure Record. If needed, travelers can obtain a copy of their I-94 on the Web after inspection by CBP at cbp.gov/I94.

The TSA uses random and unpredictable security measures to determine customer eligibility for expedited screening on a

ATLANTIC OCEAN

per-ﬂight basis. Therefore, you are not guaranteed expedited screening for every ﬂight even if you have applied to the program. MileagePlus members may participate by joining a DHS Trusted Traveler program. Visit tsa.gov/tsa-precheck to learn more.

will be directed to an expedited screening lane. Eligible passengers will also see the TSA Pre logo on their boarding passes issued online, through kiosks and on mobile boarding passes. If the boarding pass contains the TSA Pre logo (which will be located on the boarding pass near the customer’s name), the passenger can go to TSA Pre lanes. It’s important to note that while the TSA Pre logo will appear on all qualifying boarding passes, not all airports currently offer a TSA Pre lane. TM

Approved Global Entry/NEXUS/SENTRI members receive a membership/PASS ID number, also called a Known Traveler Number (KTN). Approved TSA Pre Application Program members receive a KTN. Members of the U.S. Armed Forces may use their DoD ID number as a KTN. Enter the KTN into your MileagePlus proﬁle at united.com/ tsaprescreening. United will transmit the KTN to the TSA along with the Secure Flight Passenger Data in your reservation so the TSA can determine your eligibility for TSA Pre . TM

If the TSA determines a passenger is eligible for expedited screening, information will be embedded in the barcode of his or her boarding pass. When the TSA scans the barcode at designated checkpoints, eligible passengers

Tips for customers using Global Entry/ NEXUS/SENTRI to participate in TSA Pre All customers should ensure they are providing accurate Secure Flight Passenger Data (name, date of birth, gender, optional Known Traveler Number and optional Redress Number) in all reservations. Global Entry/NEXUS/SENTRI members should ensure that this data matches what was used on the CBP application, or they will not be selected to participate. TM

For a list of airports and checkpoints with TSA Pre lanes, or to learn more, go to tsa.gov or united.com/tsaprescreening. TM

George Town

600 Kilometers

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CUBA

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Our Fleet

767-300ER 7-300ER UPDATE

United it d h has recently tl completed l a significant upgrade to its two-class 767-300ER fleet. With this $160 million flyerfriendly investment, the aircraft now feature 180-degree lie-flat seats in United BusinessFirst, personal on-demand entertainment in both cabins and newly refreshed lavatories and larger overhead bins throughout the aircraft. As part of United’s Eco-Skies program, these 14 aircraft have also been outfitted with environmentally friendly winglets, reducing fuel burn by more than 5 percent and

saving more than 300,000 gallons of fuel per aircraft per year. United has 21 additional three-class conﬁgured 767-300ER aircraft that it plans to retire in the next few years and replace with new highly efficient 787 Dreamliners. The replacement 787s will consume up to 20 percent less fuel per seat than the three-class 767-300ERs. Our 767-300ERs typically ﬂy long-haul trans-Atlantic and South America routes. We look forward to welcoming you aboard one soon.

Fleet Facts AIRCRAFT

CRUISE SPEED

CAPACITY

PROPULSION

WINGSPAN

747-400

567 mph

374 passengers

Four Pratt & Whitney PW4056 turbofan engines, rated up to 63,300 pounds thrust each

211 ft., 5 in.

777-200/-200ER

550 mph

Between 266 and 348 passengers

Two General Electric GE90 or two Pratt & Whitney PW4077/4090 turbofan engines, rated up to 94,000 pounds thrust each

199 ft., 11 in.

787-8

560 mph

219 passengers

Two General Electric GEnx turbofan engines, rated up to 69,800 pounds thrust each

197 ft., 4 in.

767-300ER/400ER

540 mph

Between 183 and 242 passengers

Two General Electric CF6-80C2B or Pratt & Whitney PW4060 turbofan engines, rated up to 63,500 pounds thrust each

Up to 170 ft., 4 in.

757-200/-300

540 mph

Between 142 and 213 passengers

Two Rolls-Royce RB211-535 or two Pratt & Whitney PW2037 turbofan engines, rated up to 43,700 pounds thrust each

134 ft., 9 in.

737-700/-800/ -900/-900ER

530 mph

Between 118 and 179 passengers

Two General Electric CFM56 turbofan engines, rated up to 27,100 pounds thrust each

118 ft., 2 in.

A319/A320

530 mph

Between 120 and 150 passengers

Two IAE V2500-A5 turbofan engines, rated up to 26,500 pounds thrust each

111 ft., 11 in.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JULY 2014

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INFORMATION

Terminal Diagrams TSA Pre

IAH | HOUSTON GEORGE BUSH INTERCONTINENTAL AIRPORT TERMINAL C United United Express

Connects Terminals A, B, C, D, & E via train

Station

Station International Arrivals

A17

B25

B27 B26

C34

South Concourse

E24

C41

C36

C40

C42

C35

B16

B15

B17

B18

B12 B14

B20 B19

B24

B23

B28

B29

A20

(Lower Level) C29

B10

B11

B22

B21

B30

B31

A19

A18

TERMINAL A (South Concourse)

A24

TSA Pre

A27 A26 A25

TSA Pre

(Lower Level)

A29

C27

TerminaLink

A30

A D4

Station

USO

C14

C23

C15

C22

C16

C21

B87 B88

C20

North Concourse

B85A B85 B84A-S

B86

D1 D2

B86A

A2 A1

B79 B77A B77 B76A B76

C17

C2 4

B79A

Bus Station (A2)

B80 B81A B81 B83A B83

C2 6

A15 A11 A9

A12 A10

TERMINAL D United Air China Avianca Lufthansa Singapore Airlines Turkish Airlines

C18 C19

TERMINAL B United Express

TERMINAL A (North Concourse) United Express Air Canada A14

C37

TERMINAL E United United Express

C39

E23

E15 E9

E16

E22

E17

E21

E18

E20 E19

EWR | NEW YORK/NEWARK LIBERTY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT TERMINAL A United United Express Air Canada

TERMINAL C B3

TERMINAL C United United International Arrivals United Express

28/28A 27/ 27A

TERMINAL B United International Arrivals Lufthansa Scandinavian Airlines SWISS TSA Pre TAP Portugal

X 26 A/ /26

A2 25/25A 4A /2 24 23/23A 20/20A

AirTrain

128 139 138 137 136 135 134 133

127 126 125 124 123 122 121 120 132 131 130

98 99 97 96 94 95 92 91 80

115 114 112 110 108 104 102

113 111 109 107 105 103 101

81 83 85 87 88

90 72 75

TSA Pre

82 84

(Upper Level)

A1 (Lower Level)

P4 Newark Liberty International Airport Station — Connection with Amtrak and New Jersey Transit

126

p126-128_HEM0614_TerminalDiagrams.indd 126

P1, P2, P3

TSA PreCheck now available at all 3 checkpoints

JULY 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

05/06/2014 15:42

ORD | CHICAGO O’HARE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

Concourse C

TERMINAL WEST

Concourse K

Concourse B United United Express

C28-C39

Concourse H

A24-A39

E8 C2 C1 C4 C6 C3 C8 C5 E3 C10 C7 E2A C12 C9 E2 C16 C11 E1A B3 C18 B2 B4 C15 E1 F1 C18A B1 C17 B5 C20 B6 C22 C19 B7 TSA Pre C24 C21 B8 C26 (Lower Level) C23 C28 C25 B9 TSA Pre C30 B10 C27 C32 B11 C29C31 B12 B13 TE R M I N A L 2 TE R M I N A L 1 B14 United Express TSA Pre United B15 B16 Air Canada United Express B17 ANA* B18 B19 Lufthansa* B20 B21 B22/23/24 Elevated Airport Concourse B Transport System

Concourse G

5 7 9 1 3 5 7 9 1 3 5 7 B1 B 1 B 1 B 2 B 2 B 2 B 2 B 2 B 3 B 3 B 3 B 3

Concourse A Air Canada Lufthansa

Concourse E

F11 F10 F9 F7 F5 F4 F3 F2

8 0 2 4 6 4 6 6 8 0 2 B1 B1 B 2 B 2 B 2 B 2 B 2 B 3 B 3 B 3 B 3

Concourse F F14 F12

DEN | DENVER INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

Pedestrian Bridge A58-A68

Concourse M

SFO | SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

9 1 3 5 7 9 1 3 5 B5 B6 B6 B6 B6 B6 B7 B7 B7 B77 9

*Departures only **Arrivals only

Concourse C

1 3 5 7 9 1 B8 B8 B8 B8 B8 B9 B93 B95

0 2 4 6 8 0 2 4 B8 B8 B8 B8 B8 B9 B9 B9

TE R M I N A L 5 United (international arrivals, except Canadian arrivals), ANA**, Asiana Airlines, Austrian, Avianca, Copa Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa**, Scandinavian Airlines, SWISS, Turkish Airlines

2 4 6 8 0 2 4 6 8 0 B4 B4 B4 B4 B5 B5 B5 B5 B5 B6

A40-A53

TERMINAL EAST

C40-C50

Train

TSA Pre

Concourse L

9 1 3 5 7 9 1 3 5 7 B3 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B5 B5 B5 B5

TE R M I N A L 3

IAD | WASHINGTON DULLES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

TE R M I N A L 2

64 63 62 61 66 60 67 78A/B 68 77A/B/C 69 79 76A/B

TE R M I N A L 1

TE R M I N A L 3 United United Express

80 82 84 81 86 83 88 85 90 87 89

72 73 73A 74 75

G102

Concourse D United United Express

C2-4

C6-8

Train C10-14

C18-26

C28-30

D2-8

D10-16

C1-3

C5-7

C9-11

C17-27

D1-7

A14

A22

A15

A21

D9-11

A25

(Lower Level)

G99

United Express Avianca Copa Airlines Ethiopian

G91

G95 G97

D28-32

Z Gates

1-4

Gates A1-A12

I N T E R N AT I O N A L TE R M I N A L

D15-21 D23-29

A32

B38-B48

B35-B51

Shuttle Bus

Concourse A

G93

G101

D18-26

Shuttle

G92

G94 G96 G98 G100

Concourse C United United Express

MAIN TERMINAL

B63-B79

Concourse B ANA Austrian Avianca Brussels Airlines Lufthansa Scandinavian Airlines South African Airways Turkish Airlines

United, Air Canada, Air China, Air New Zealand, ANA, Asiana Airlines, Avianca, EVA AIR, Lufthansa, Scandinavian Airlines, Singapore Airlines, SWISS

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Terminal Diagrams CONT’D

TSA Pre

LAX | LOS ANGELES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT TE R M I N A L 3

TE R M I N A L 2 Air Canada Air China Air New Zealand Avianca

CLE | CLEVELAND HOPKINS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Concourse B United United Express

TE R M I N A L 1

C17

C18

8 4B

Concourse C United United Express Air Canada

C16

C19

C2 C14

C20

C11

TSA Pre

C21

TO M B R A D L E Y I N T E R N A T I O N A L TE R M I N A L ANA, Asiana Airlines, EVA AIR Lufthansa, Singapore Airlines, SWISS, THAI, Turkish Airlines

(Lower Level)

C22

C10

C25

D6 60 62 64 66 68A

67A 67B 69A 69B

TE R M I N A L 4

TE R M I N A L 5

80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88

68B

TE R M I N A L 6 United Copa Airlines

71B 73

70B 72

75A 75B 77

74 76

TE R M I N A L 7 United United Express

D12 D14

43 42 44

35 36

Third Floor 27

GUM | GUAM INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

Satellite 2

North Wing

Satellite 1

Café

19 21

20 5

(Lower Level) 57 58

Transfer to Terminal 1 is via walkway

Gates Z11-25 A1-42

Pier A/Z

128

p126-128_HEM0614_TerminalDiagrams.indd 128

Austrian Croatia Airlines EGYPTAIR Ethiopian LOT Polish Airlines Lufthansa Scandinavian Airlines

B49

B33

B48 B47

B29

B46 T E R M I N A L 2B

A/Z Gates 50-69

Underground Walkway

Arrivals Lounge

B44

B36

B43

B38

T E R M I N A L 5A TERMINAL 3

TE R M I N A L 1 United Aegean Airlines Adria Airways Air Canada Air China ANA Asiana Airlines

B32

Z A/

Gates C1-C9

B31

TERMINAL 1

Pier A

Pedestrian Tunnel

Pier D

LHR | LONDON HEATHROW INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

B27 B47 B46 B26 B48 B28 B45 B23 B25 B42 B44 B24 B22 B43 Pier B B1-B41 B10-B20

Gates D1-D54

TE R M I N A L 2

Food Court

15 11

MAIN TERMINAL United

Security Checkpoint 17

51 52

Sky Line Train

Pier E

Some United international ﬂights arrive at Concourse A.

D17

FRA | FRANKFURT INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Gates E1-E26

Concourse D United Express

South Wing

Terminals M, B and A

TERMINAL 1 United Air Canada Air China ANA Air New Zealand Asiana Airlines Austrian EGYPTAIR EVA AIR Lufthansa Scandinavian Airlines Singapore Airlines SWISS THAI Turkish Airlines

D7 D9 D8

D21

TE R M I N A L 8 United United Express

32 46

D28

D11

D10

D25

NRT | TOKYO NARITA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Fourth Floor

Underground Tunnel

C27 C26

71A

61 63 65

(Lower Level)

C24

TSA Pre

C29

C23

A18

B42

B39 B41

Singapore Airlines South African Airways SWISS TAP Portugal THAI Turkish Airlines

A5 Transfer to Terminal 3-4-5 is via secure side shuttle bus

A21

T E R M I N A L 2A

TERMINAL 4

Various airlines are moving into new terminals in 2014, check ﬂight information screens or check with your airline for current location

JULY 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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No.00000 NRT Network 1pp.indd 1

13 daily flights from the U.S. to Tokyo.

04/06/2014 16:37

INFORMATION MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT Whether your next ﬂight is on United or one of its Star Alliance partners around the world, you can use the terminal diagrams on pages 126–128 to plan your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters and interterminal transportation.

Safety & Travel Assistance SAFETY INFORMATION NEED TO KNOW Customer safety is our primary concern. Our ﬂight attendants are trained thoroughly in all safety procedures. But as expert as they are, in the event of an emergency they need help from you, the customer. You should be aware of the following:

NEVER PERMITTED The Federal Aviation Administration and the Transportation Security Administration prohibit hazardous materials in either checked or carry-on baggage. Substantial ﬁnes can be imposed for violations.

EXIT Location of the nearest emergency exit

The correct procedure for exiting the cabin in an emergency

Where your oxygen mask will appear, how to start the oxygen ﬂow and how to use the mask

Please look carefully at the safety information card located in the seat pocket in front of you

Liquid and solid explosives

Flammable gases and compressed gas

Radioactive and magnetic materials, corrosive and oxidizing agents

Poisons

Smoking is not permitted. Federal law imposes ﬁnes of $1,000 for smoking and up to $2,200 for any attempt to disable an aircraft’s smoke detectors. We prohibit the use of electronic simulated smoking devices (cigarettes, pipes, cigars, etc.) on our ﬂights.

It is a violation of federal regulations to drink alcoholic beverages during a ﬂight unless they are served by our personnel. Also, airlines are forbidden to serve alcoholic beverages to anyone who appears to be intoxicated.

Travel assistance for delayed or canceled flights At United, our priority is safety and keeping an on-time schedule. On occasion, canceling or delaying a flight is the only option to ensure we maintain the highest safety standards. Flight interruption? We will confirm you on the next United flight with available seats. Kiosks located in the concourse will assist you with information and a boarding pass, and will also help you stand by for an earlier United flight if one is scheduled. If you want to travel standby and aren’t boarded, we will transfer your name to the next United flight to your destination until you are onboard. What about my bag? Baggage is boarded on the next flight if space is available, which means your bags may arrive before you. If so, United will secure the bag until you claim it. See a baggage claim representative. What if I have to stay overnight? If a flight is canceled to address a mechanical issue or a similar issue within our control, we will provide

you with a hotel and meal voucher. For uncontrollable events—such as weather—we may be able to help you locate a local hotel at a discounted rate; however, United does not cover hotel or meal expenses in this event. If we cannot retrieve your checked bag, overnight kits containing toiletries are available. Please see an agent. What if the reason for my travel no longer exists? If as a result of the delay or cancellation you opt not to travel, call United reservations (1-800-UNITED-1) to learn about your options. Help us help you stay informed. Sign up for Trip Alert, our messaging service that informs you if your ﬂight is canceled or delayed, at united.com. At home? Go to united.com for information or to check in and print your boarding pass. Your safety and satisfaction are important to us. We appreciate your business and apologize for any inconvenience you may have experienced.

Staying Fit IN-FLIGHT FLEXIBILITY Knee Flexion: Lift knee toward chest, decreasing the amount of joint space at the back of the knee. Repeat with other leg.

Dorsiﬂexion: With heel on ﬂoor, point toes upward, decreasing the angle between the foot and the front of the leg. Repeat with other foot.

Eversion: With foot on ﬂoor, gently roll the sole of the foot inward. Repeat with other foot.

Knee Extension: Straighten knee, increasing the amount of joint space at the back of the knee to its full range. Repeat with other leg.

Plantar Flexion: Lift heel and keep toes pointed toward the ﬂoor, increasing the angle between the top of the foot and the front of the leg. Repeat with other foot.

Inversion: With foot on ﬂoor, gently roll the sole of the foot outward. Repeat with other foot.

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CUSTOMER CARE We are committed to providing quality service, and we want to hear about your travel experience with us. In addition, if you think a certain employee or an action taken on your behalf deserves special recognition, please let us know. Please give us your comments at united.com/feedback.

Use of personal electronic devices What is the new portable electronic device policy? Small, lightweight devices may be used on Unitedoperated and United Express flights gate-to-gate, as long as the device is secured and has been switched to airplane mode and/or had the cellular data disabled. This policy applies to flights operating within the 50 U.S. states and all U.S. territories. How do devices need to be secured or stowed? Devices may be held in hand (not left unsecured around the seat) or placed in a garment pocket or in the seatback pocket, as long as the device is less than 2 pounds. Devices weighing more than 2 pounds must be stowed in approved carry-on baggage in the overhead compartment or under the seat in front of you during take-off, taxi and landing. In an emergency situation, all devices must be turned off and stowed. For international destinations, your flight attendants will advise if it’s necessary to turn off and stow your device. Are there any exceptions to using personal devices under this new policy? The captain may request that all devices be fully turned off in certain circumstances, such as for poor visibility landings. Please always listen to and follow crewmember instructions.

Does the new policy allow me to use a small notebook laptop? No. The new policy does not apply to laptops or DVD players, which may only be used when announced by your flight crew. Will I be able to use Wi-Fi below 10,000 feet? Our aircraft equipped with satellite Wi-Fi are currently configured to allow Wi-Fi above 10,000 feet. However, we are exploring options to provide gate-to-gate Wi-Fi in the future. When can I use in-seat power? Use of in-seat power is prohibited during taxi, takeoff and landing. Can I make calls or send text messages? The use of cellular network services during the flight is not permitted by the Federal Communications Commission (FCC). The use of any voice application, such as a Web-based Voice over Internet Protocol (VoIP) service, in connection with or in-flight Wi-Fi service is not permitted.

ELECTRONIC DEVICES PERMITTED

Small, lightweight PEDs (Personal Electronic Devices) may remain on from door closure to landing Cell phones should be in airplane mode or have cellular service disabled

NEVER PERMITTED Radio Receivers and/or transmitters, including AM/FM/SW/CB and Scanners Televisions Remote-controlled toys Personal air puriﬁers Bluetooth devices

LIMITED PERMISSION

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION

Laptops and DVD players must be stowed in approved carry-on baggage during taxi, takeoff and landing

All devices must be used with sound off or with headsets at all times

ONBOARD PHOTO AND VIDEO POLICY United Airlines strives to provide customers with a safe and pleasant travel experience. The use of any device for photography or audio and/or video recording is permitted only for capturing personal events. Any photography or recording of other customers or airline personnel without their express prior consent is strictly prohibited. Any photography (still or video) or recording (audio or video) of airline procedures or aircraft equipment is strictly prohibited, except to the extent prior approval has been speciﬁcally granted by United Airlines. This policy is not a contract and does not create any legal rights or obligations.

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Rechargeable batteries have a risk of overload or fire when not stored properly. Rechargeable batteries should be stored in their electronic devices or properly protected to avoid contact with metal or other batteries during flight. Advanced mobile phones, PDAs and other personal electronic devices with wireless capabilities may be used in flight when switched to “airplane” mode. A visible airplanedisabled mode should be identifiable and shown to a crew member upon request. Flight attendants will notify mobile phone and two-way pager users when it is safe to begin placing or receiving phone calls or pages after landing. One-way pagers may be used to receive messages at any time. PLEASE NOTE Customers may always use any medically prescribed physiological instrument, such as a hearing aid or a pacemaker. On aircraft equipped with in-ear headphones, customers with hearing-assistance devices may request a different headset from a flight attendant. Passengers are allowed to use non-battery-operated headphones during taxi, takeoff and landing. The in-seat power system may be used only above 10,000 feet. Use of the system is at your own risk. Do not remove batteries. We are not responsible for loss of data or damage to computer hardware or software.

PLEASE NOTE United strictly prohibits the modiﬁcation or use of any object or device to alter or limit the functionality, permanently or temporarily, of any aircraft structure, seat assembly, tray table, etc. If you see a customer using any such device or object, please inform United personnel immediately.

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INFORMATION

MileagePlus THE WORLD’S MOST REWARDING LOYALTY PROGRAMSM

Best Frequent Flyer Program, 10 years running

For the 10th year in a row, MileagePlus® is proud to be named the world’s Best Frequent Flyer Program by Global Traveler magazine. Our awardwinning loyalty program offers innovative ways to earn and use award miles, from flying United’s global route network to enjoying other special opportunities through new programs and partners like RewardsPlus and Mercedes-Benz. Look for even more exciting opportunities to come this year. #1 in award seat availability MileagePlus continues to rank #1 in award seat availability among U.S. global carriers.* When it comes to booking award travel, you’re much more likely to find a Saver Award seat to more than 1,100 destinations on United, United Express® and other Star Alliance® member airlines. To book your next award trip, go to united.com. Two global travel leaders, one great experience Together in 2013, MileagePlus and Marriott Rewards® brought you RewardsPlus, a new way to reward your loyalty. We’re excited to extend the benefits of this program into 2014, providing exceptional value for your miles and points conversions, as well as complimentary Marriott Rewards Elite status for select members. For more information, go to united.com/rewardsplus. Partners in luxury MileagePlus Premier® members can now take advantage of exclusive incentives from Mercedes-Benz, the world-class luxury automaker. For more details and the latest offers, go to united.com/mercedes.

MileagePlus Premier® program benefits overview MileagePlus features four status levels, each with its own thresholds for Premier qualifying miles, segments and dollars.** Go to united.com/premier for details. Below is a sample of current MileagePlus Premier benefits. MileagePlus Premier member beneﬁts Premier bonus award miles Complimentary Premier Upgrades conﬁrmation (as early as)

Premier Silver

Premier Gold

Premier Platinum

Premier 1K®

25%

50%

75%

100%

Day of departure

48 hours

72 hours

96 hours

At check-in

At booking

Instant upgrades on select full-fare economy tickets Premier Access® priority airport services Unrestricted access to Standard Awards Complimentary access to preferred seating in economy class (Economy Plus®) Lounge access when traveling internationally Payment code for Global Entry application fee Regional Premier Upgrades eligibility Global Premier Upgrades eligibility

Global Traveler, GT Tested Awards, 2013 Best Frequent Flyer Program, tenth consecutive year as voted by the readers of Global Traveler magazine. www.globaltravelerusa.com *Among United States global carriers (United, American Airlines, US Airways and Delta) as published by IdeaWorksCompany in their annual Switchfly Reward Seat Availability Survey of saver-style rewards available for June–October of the applicable survey year, each year from 2010–2013. **Premier® qualifying dollars apply to members whose address with MileagePlus is within the 50 United States or the District of Columbia. Miles accrued, awards and benefits issued are subject to change and are subject to the rules of the United MileagePlus program, including, without limitation, the Premier® program (the “MileagePlus Program”), which are expressly incorporated herein. United may change the MileagePlus Program including, but not limited to, rules, regulations, travel awards and special offers or terminate the MileagePlus Program at any time and without notice. United and its subsidiaries, affiliates and agents are not responsible for any products or services of other participating companies and partners. United and MileagePlus are registered service marks. For complete details about the MileagePlus Program, go to united.com.

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No.00000 Great Big World 1pp.indd 1

More destinations than any other airline.

04/06/2014 16:36

Alliances & Partnerships

GLOBAL REACH. WORLDWIDE RECOGNITION. EXCELLENT TRAVEL SERVICES. United and Star Alliance member airlines provide seamless air travel around the world. Star Alliance is the world’s largest global airline alliance, with more than 18,000 daily flights departing to 1,269 destinations. Customers have access to a comprehensive global network, frequent-flyer travel benefits and worldwide lounge access on all Star Alliance member airlines.

Star Alliance Member Airlines

The Star Alliance network Established in 1997 as the first truly global airline alliance to offer customers a worldwide travel network, Star Alliance aims to provide customers with a seamless travel experience across multiple airlines. Today, the Star Alliance network offers more than 18,000 daily flights to 1,269 destinations in 193 countries. Earn miles and status faster With the largest airline alliance, you can earn MileagePlus award miles almost anywhere in the world you fly. Miles can be earned on most fares on almost any Star Alliance flight and can be credited to your account. Plus, the flight miles will count toward Premier® status. Earn recognition around the world The more that you fly with United and the Star Alliance airlines, the higher your status can be. MileagePlus Premier status is recognized across the alliance as either Star Alliance Silver or Star Alliance Gold, with travel benefits worldwide. Go to united.com/staralliance for the Star Alliance Silver and Gold status benefits you can receive. Award travel is now easier With Star Alliance Awards, you can use your MileagePlus award miles for award travel on any Star Alliance carrier worldwide. Or, use them for Star Alliance Upgrade Awards and upgrade to a premium cabin for maximum comfort (available on most Star Alliance airlines).

Other Airline Partners You can earn and redeem award miles on many of our other airline partners. See united.com/airlinepartners for speciﬁc information about each of our other airline partners. • Aer Lingus • Aeromar • Amtrak • Azul

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• Cape Air • Germanwings • Great Lakes • Hawaiian Airlines

• Island Air • Jet Airways • Silver Airways

JULY 2014 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

05/06/2014 15:44

THE WAY TO FLY THROUGH LONDON By bringing 23 of our member airlines together under one roof, we’re making connections faster at our latest state-of-the-art hub – Heathrow Terminal 2. Starting June 2014. staralliance.com

No.00000 Star Alliance LHR 1pp.indd 1

04/06/2014 16:38

Chef’s Corner Pork Tacos with Grilled Pineapple and Creamy Avocado Sauce Red Onion Garnish Ingredients 1 large red onion, sliced into 1/4-inch rings Olive oil ¼ cup orange juice ¼ cup grapefruit juice ¼ cup lime juice Salt and pepper, to taste Executive Chef Robin Carr oversees every aspect of our busy domestic and international catering facilities in Newark, New Jersey. As a Culinary Institute of America (CIA) graduate, she professionally handles each menu development process. Whether it is a Japanese menu to Tokyo or using popular trends for menu enhancements, Chef Robin is always ready to take on the next challenge in creating cuisine for the vast markets served by United.

Chef's tip Grilling caramelizes the natural sugars in fresh fruit. Grilled fruit makes a great addition to salads, savory dishes and desserts.

Red Onion Garnish Directions Brush onion with olive oil 2. Grill until tender, remove from heat and cool 3. Combine the juices and add the cooled onion 4. Season with salt and pepper 5. Marinate under refrigeration for two hours 6. Bring to room temperature when serving

Yields 6–8 servings

Pork Tacos Ingredients 1 two pound pork tenderloin 1 tablespoon cumin 2 teaspoons allspice 1 tablespoon ground oregano 1 tablespoon cracked black pepper 1 tablespoon coarse seat salt 3 ounces olive oil 16 corn tortillas

Grilled Pineapple Ingredients fresh pineapple, skin and core removed, sliced into thin rings Olive oil Salt and pepper

Grilled Pineapple Directions Brush pineapple with olive oil 2. Season with salt and pepper 3. Grill over high heat until marked and warmed through 4. Dice into large chunks 1.

CHEERS!

Pork Tacos Directions In a large sealable bag, combine cumin, allspice, oregano, pepper, salt and olive oil 2. Pat the tenderloin dry, place in plastic bag and coat with spice and oil mixture 3. Marinate for up to six hours 4. On a hot grill, cook the pork on all sides until browned and it reaches an internal temperature of 155F 5. Remove from the grill and let rest five minutes before slicing 6. When ready to serve, slice the meat very thinly 7. Wrap the tortillas in foil and heat in a 300F oven for 10 minutes 8. Serve with grilled pineapple, onion garnish and avocado sauce 1.

NOTE: Creamy Avocado Sauce recipe is available exclusively on iPad. You may view the chef’s recipes by visiting www.hemispheresmagazine.com and downloading the App.

Courtesy of Doug Frost, Master Sommelier and Master of Wine

Fouassier Peres et Fils "Benoit Fouassier" Sancerre 2012 | While Sancerre traditionally offers an herbal style of Sauvignon Blanc, this 2012 is fruitier, delicious and nearly tropical in flavor. This wine would pair well against the rich flavors of this recipe.

HemiChef_July.indd 1

04/06/2014 16:46

snacks Pringles® Original Potato Crisps $3.29

Wild Garden® Hummus Dip & Multi Grain Pita Chips $3.99

Sweet & Savory Bistro Blend Trail Mix $4.29

Two Degrees® Fruit & Nut Bars. 2-Pack Box $3.99

Sheila G’s™ Salted Caramel Brownie Brittle $3.99

Haribo® Gold-Bears® Gummi Candy $3.99

snackboxes Savory

Tapas

Classic

$8.99

$7.99

All day on most North America and Latin America flights (excluding Argentina, Brazil, Peru and Venezuela) over 2 hours, and between Guam and Honolulu. All flights accept credit/debit cards only.

HemiMenu_July.indd 137

04/06/2014 16:48

Eat for Good We proudly partner with Feeding AmericaÂŽ and Common Threads to help fight hunger and ensure that children have the confidence to make healthy choices about what they eat. Learn more at united.com/eatforgood.

Roast beef & cheddar baguette

HemiMenu_July.indd 138

04/06/2014 16:48

L AT I N A M E R I C A

breakfast ON MOST MORNING FLIGHTS DEPARTING BETWEEN 5:45 AM AND 9:45 AM

breakfast

lunch & dinner

ON MOST MORNING FLIGHTS DEPARTING BETWEEN 5:45 AM AND 9:45 AM

ON MOST AFTERNOON AND EVENING FLIGHTS DEPARTING BETWEEN 9:45 AM AND 8:00 PM

Turkey & Cheddar Cheese Baguette May be served warm on select aircraft

Baguette with turkey, cheddar cheese and mustard-mayonnaise spread

Two Degrees速 Fruit & Nut Bars 2-Pack Box. All natural, gluten free, vegan, kosher, low sodium and GMO free For every bar you buy, Two Degrees速 gives a meal to a hungry child

$3.99

Morning Energy Selection Hard-cooked egg, cheese, grapes, breakfast roll and almond butter

Artisan Cheese Selection

Contains: Wheat, milk, egg

Three cheese selection with crackers, fruit spread, grapes and chocolate

$8.99

Contains: Milk, wheat, soybean

$7.99

Asian-style Noodle Salad Udon noodles with chicken breast, vegetable julienne, green onion and sesame ginger dressing

Ham & Swiss Baguette May be served warm on select aircraft

Pretzel baguette with ham, Swiss cheese and creamy spread Contains: Wheat, soybean, milk

$8.99

$9.49

Teriyaki Chicken Salad

Chicken Wrap

Teriyaki-glazed chicken, lettuce, cucumber and tomato with mango vinaigrette and a side of pineapple slaw

Tortilla filled with chicken breast, vegetables and creamy sesame ginger sauce, and a side of spicy a誰oli sauce

Contains: Soybean, egg

$8.99

Contains: Wheat, soybean, milk

$9.49

Roast Beef & Cheddar Baguette May be served warm on select aircraft

See detailed ingredient list on the following page.

ON MOST AFTERNOON AND EVENING FLIGHTS DEPARTING BETWEEN 9:45 AM AND 8:00 PM

Contains: Wheat, soybean

Contains: Egg, milk, wheat, tree nuts (almond)

$6.99

lunch & dinner

Asiago baguette with roast beef, cheddar cheese and creamy horseradish sauce Contains: Wheat, milk, egg, soybean

$9.49 Available for purchase on flights over 3.5 hours within North America, to Latin America and between Honolulu and Guam. All flights accept credit/debit cards only.

Crispy Chicken Wrap Tortilla filled with breaded chicken, tomato salsa, lettuce and creamy spread Contains: Wheat, milk

$8.99

Chicken & Cheese Baguette May be served warm on select aircraft

Herbed baguette with chicken, cheddar cheese and spicy mayonnaise Contains: Wheat, milk, egg

$8.99 Departing Caribbean, Central America, Mexico, Colombia and Ecuador

S E L EC T M A R K E T S

breakfast

lunch & dinner

ON MOST MORNING FLIGHTS DEPARTING BEFORE 9:15 AM (9:45 AM JFK TO/FROM LAX/SFO)

ON MOST AFTERNOON AND EVENING FLIGHTS DEPARTING BETWEEN 9:15 AM AND 8:00 PM (9:45 AM JFK TO/FROM LAX/SFO)

Bistro on Board products may contain food allergens such as milk, egg, fish, crustacean shellfish, tree nuts, wheat or soybean.

Bistro Scramble

Chicken & Asparagus Risotto

Vegetarian Option

Scrambled eggs, potatoes, turkey sausage, asparagus and Swiss cheese

Risotto with creamy wine sauce, chicken breast, asparagus and basil

Gluten Free

Contains: Egg, milk

Contains: Wheat, milk, fish (cod), crustacean shellfish (lobster, shrimp), soybean

$9.99

These warm meals are available on most flights between Hawaii and Chicago, Houston, Newark and Washington, D.C., p.s.速 Premium Service between New York JFK, and Los Angeles/San Francisco and between Honolulu and Guam.

HemiMenu_July.indd 139

Menu and beverage options may vary by flight. We apologize if your preferred choice is not available.

04/06/2014 16:48

B E V E R AG E S Non-Alcoholic

SUMMER CYCLE JULY 2014

Complimentary and available on most flights. J

Coca-Cola,® Coke Zero,® Diet Coke®

Mott’s® Tomato Juice

Sprite®

Mr & Mrs T® Bloody Mary Mix

DASANI® Lime Sparkling Water

DASANI® Bottled Water

Fresh Product Ingredients

Minute Maid®: Apple Juice, Cranberry Apple Juice Cocktail, Orange Juice

Seagram’s®: Ginger Ale, Seltzer Water, Tonic Water

Hawaiian Kona Blend Coffee

Decaffeinated Coffee

Hot Tea

AVAIL ABLE ON SELEC T ROU T E S

Cappuccino, Espresso and Specialty Regional Teas are available on select international routes and availability varies according to cabin and destination.

Alcoholic

Refer to product label for packaged item ingredients MOR NING ENERG Y SEL EC TION Gruyere Cheese: Pasteurized cultured milk, salt, enzymes; Breakfast Roll: Unbleached wheat flour [wheat flour, ascorbic acid (natural dough conditioner), niacin [Vitamin B-3], iron [ferrous sulphate], thiamin mononitrate [Vitamin B-1], riboflavin [Vitamin B-2], folic acid], filtered water, anti-oxidant containing raisins (raisins, vegetable oil), organic evaporated cane sugar, flax seeds, multigrain mix (cracked wheat, cracked rye, crushed flax seeds, millet meal, cracked triticale, barley grits, sunflower seeds, rolled oats, durum semolina), sunflower seeds, wheat bran, rolled oats, sulfite free apples, yeast, sunflower oil, sea salt, cultured wheat starch, citric acid, amylase (enzyme); Almond butter: Dry roasted California almonds, cane sugar, responsibly-sourced palm fruit oil, sea salt; Hard-cooked egg; and Grapes. Contains: Egg, milk, wheat, tree nuts (almond)

H A M & S WIS S B AGUE T T E Pretzel Baguette: Wheat flour (malted barley flour, potassium bromate), water, sugar, salt, shortening, yeast, dough conditioner (wheat flour, datem, dextrose, soybean oil, ascorbic acid, I-cysteine, azodicarbonamide, enzymes); Smoked ham: Cured with water, salt, sugar, dextrose, sodium phosphates, sodium erythorbate, sodium nitrite; Swiss Cheese: Pasteurized part-skim milk, cheese culture, salt, enzymes; Creamy Spread: Cream Cheese (sugar, pasteurized milk, and cream, (trivial source of fat) carob bean gum, salt, artificial color, xanthan gum, artificial flavor); Sour Cream (Grade A cultured cream). Contains: Wheat, soybean, milk

A R TIS A N CHEE SE SEL EC TION

Alcoholic beverages are available on most flights. Complimentary in premium cabins. Priced as shown in economy cabin.

Specialty Cocktail

$9.99

Smoked Gouda Cheese: Pasteurized cultured milk, enzymes, salt, water, sodium phosphate, potassium sorbate (preservative), apo-carotenal (color); Cheddar Cheese: Pasteurized milk, cheese cultures, salt, enzymes, annatto coloring; Gruyere Cheese: Pasteurized cultured milk, salt, enzymes; Apricot Spread: Apricots, sugar, cane sugar, concentrated lemon juice, fruit pectin; Chocolate: Unsweetened chocolate, sugar, cocoa butter, milk fat, soy lecithin, an emulsifier, vanilla; and Olive Oil & Sea Salt Crackers*. Contains: Milk, wheat, soybean

MOS T U. S. M AINL A ND FLIGH T S TO/FROM H AWAII

A SIA N-S T Y L E NO ODL E S A L A D

Trader Vic’s® Mai Tai

Chicken Breast: Water, modified corn starch, seasoning (salt, sugar, onion powder, garlic powder, paprika, black pepper, thyme, savory), vegetable oil (canola oil, extra virgin olive oil), sodium phosphates, chicken base (chicken meat including natural chicken juices, salt, corn maltodextrin, cane sugar; Udon Noodle: Wheat flour, sea salt, lemon juice, vinaigrette (sugar, peaches, water, soybean oil, vinegar, sesame oil, lemon juice from concentrate, wheat, soybeans, salt, food starch modified, sesame seeds, ground sesame seeds, natural flavor, granulated garlic, caramel color, spices, cayenne pepper), soy sauce (wheat, soybeans, water, salt), sesame oil; Dressing: Water, sugar, soybean oil, soy sauce (water, wheat, soybeans, salt and less than 0.1% sodium benzoate added as a preservative), rice vinegar, sesame oil, ginger (ginger, water, salt, and citric acid), sesame seeds, maltodextrin, modified food starch, salt, garlic, spice, less than 0.1% sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate added as preservatives, xantham gum, propylene glycol alginate and calcium disodium EDTA added to protect flavor; Vegetables: Carrots, zucchini, red wine vinegar, cucumber, red and yellow bell pepper, cilantro, salt and pepper. Contains: Wheat, soybean

Beer Budweiser,® Miller® Lite $6.99 312 Urban Ale, Heineken® $7.99

Wines (187ml)

$7.99

House Red and White IN T ER N ATION A L & MOS T FLIGH T S T O/FROM H AWAII

CHICKEN WR A P

Not available on intra-Pacific flights

Chicken Breast: Water, modified corn starch, seasoning (salt, sugar, onion powder, garlic powder, paprika, black pepper, thyme, savory), vegetable oil (canola oil, extra virgin olive oil), sodium phosphates, chicken base (chicken meat including natural chicken juices, salt, corn maltodextrin, cane sugar, chicken fat, dried onion, natural flavor, turmeric) salt, corn maltodextrin, caramel color; Tortilla: Enriched flour (wheat flour, malted barley flour, niacin, reduced iron, thiamine mononitrate, riboflavin, folic acid), water, vegetable shortening (interesterfied soybean oil, hydrogenated cottonseed oil), contains less than 2% of each of the following; oat fiber, salt, wheat flour, baking powder (baking soda, sodium aluminum sulfate, calcium carbonate, corn starch, monocalcium phosphate), calcium propionate and potassium sorbate (preservatives), fumaric acid, sugar, distilled monoglycerides, cellulose gum, inactive yeast, guar gum, soy lecithin, maltodextrin, carrageenan, L-cysteine; Creamy Sesame Ginger Sauce: Water, sugar, soybean oil, soy sauce (water, wheat, soybeans, salt and less than 0.1% sodium benzoate added as a preservative), rice vinegar, sesame oil, ginger (ginger, water, salt, citric acid), sesame seeds, maltodextrin, modified food starch, salt, garlic, spice, less than 0.1% sodium benzoate and potassium sorbate added as preservatives, xantham gum, propylene glycol alginate and calcium disodium EDTA added to protect flavor, cream cheese (milk, cream and stabilizers); Carrots, Red and Yellow Bell Pepper and Romaine Lettuce. *Spicy aïoli sauce packet. Contains: Wheat, soybean, milk

Sparkling Wine T R A NS-PACIFIC FLIGH T S TO/FROM JA PA N

Sake

Premium Wine (375ml)

$15.99

Beverage vouchers may not be used to obtain premium wines AVAIL A BLE IN ECONOM Y C A BINS ON FLIGH T S BE T WEEN T HE UNIT ED S TAT E S A ND EUROPE A ND JFK TO/FROM L A X A ND SFO. J

MURPHY-GOODE Sauvignon Blanc, California

Meiomi Pinot Noir, Napa Valley, California

Spirits

$7.99

Tito’s Handmade VODKA®

Bacardi® Superior Rum

Jim Beam® Devil's Cut® Bourbon Whiskey

Dewar’s® “White Label®” Blended Scotch Whisky Jack Daniel’s® Tennessee Whiskey

Canadian Club® Whisky

Premium Spirits & Liqueurs J

Courvoisier® VSOP Fine Champagne Cognac

$8.99

Baileys® Irish Cream

Bombay Sapphire® Dry Gin

Grand Marnier®

DISARONNO® Amaretto*

Crown Royal® Canadian Whisky

*Also available in domestic premium cabins Alcohol may be served to customers over 21 only. We are proud to recycle aluminum cans, newspapers and plastic bottles on eligible flights.

HemiMenu_July.indd 140

BIS T RO S CR A MBL E Eggs: Heavy cream, butter, salt and white pepper; Shredded Swiss Cheese: Pasteurized part-skim milk, cheese culture, salt, enzymes; Turkey Sausage: Turkey, water, contains 2% or less: potassium lactate, salt, spices, sodium phosphate, dextrose, sugar, sodium propionate, sodium diacetate, BHT, citric acid, caramel color; Potatoes (potatoes, olive oil, salt and white pepper); Asparagus: (asparagus, olive oil, salt and black pepper). Contains: Egg, milk

CHICKEN A ND A SPA R AGUS RIS OT TO

MOS T IN T ER N ATION A L FLIGH T S J

ROA S T BEEF A ND CHEDDA R BAGUE T T E Asiago Baguette: Wheat flour (malted barley flour, potassium bromate), water, sugar, salt, shortening, yeast, dough conditioner (wheat flour, datem, dextrose, soybean oil, ascorbic acid, I-cysteine, azaodicaronamide, enzymes), Asiago cheese (pasteurized cow’s milk, cheese culture, salt, enzymes), powdered cellulose (anti-caking agent), calcium; Roast Beef: Beef sirloin, kosher salt, black pepper; Cheddar Cheese: pasteurized milk, cheese cultures, salt, enzymes, annatto coloring; Creamy Horseradish Sauce: Mayonnaise (soybean oil, water, whole eggs and egg yolks, vinegar, salt, sugar, lemon juice, calcium disodium EDTA used to protect quality, natural flavors and horseradish. Contains: Wheat, soybean, milk

Risotto: Cooked parboiled rice, water, white wine (contains sulfites), white wine base (white wine concentrate, maltodextrin), modified corn starch, bleached enriched wheat flour (niacin, reduced iron, thiamine mononitrate, riboflavin, folic acid), palm oil, sugar, salt, autolyzed yeast extracts, nonfat dry milk, fish extract powder (dehydrated fish extract and maltodextrin), natural and artificial wine flavor (maltodextrin, modified food starch, autolyzed yeast extract, sherry wine concentrate, corn syrup solids, citric acid, natural and artificial flavor, silicon dioxide (anticaking agent)), dehydrated shallots, maltodextrin, xanthan gum, caramel color, disodium inosinate and guanylate, less than 2% canola oil and silicon dioxide as anticaking agents), cream powder (cream, natural cream flavor, modified corn starch, xanthan gum, microcrystalline cellulose, mono and diglycerides, sodium phosphate), shellfish base (salt, shellfish (clam, lobster and shrimp with juices), cooked fish (cod), butter (milk), dehydrated potato, dextrose, sugar, flavorings (including onion powder, garlic powder), canola oil, tomato paste, olive oil, hydrolyzed soy protein, shrimp extract, lobster extract, yeast extract, corn maltodextrin, natural flavors, mushroom extract, paprika, disodium inosinate and disodium guanylate, potassium sorbate (preservative), oleoresin of black pepper), sugar, salt, modified corn starch, seasoning sauce (caramel, vegetable base (water, carrots, onions, celery, parsnips, turnips, salt, parsley, spices), sodium benzoate (less than 0.1 of 1% to preserve freshness), and sulfiHng agents), white pepper; Chicken Breast: Water, modified corn starch, seasoning (salt, sugar, onion powder, garlic powder, paprika, black pepper, thyme, savory), vegetable oil (canola oil, extra virgin olive oil), sodium phosphates, chicken base (chicken meat including natural chicken juices, salt, corn maltodextrin, cane); Asparagus (olive oil, salt, white pepper), Basil. Contains: Wheat, milk, fish (cod), crustacean shellfish (lobster, shrimp), soybean

04/06/2014 16:49

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