United Airlines Hemispheres Magazine September 2013 by Ahmed Aamir

SEPTEMBER 2013

Hemisphe heres

THREE PERFECT DAYS: NASHVILLE • FASHION SPECIAL • THE HEMI Q&A WITH MICHAEL KORS

THREE PERFECT DAYS

NASHVILLE THE HEMI Q&A: MICHAEL KORS SAYS IT'S OK TO JUDGE INSIDE ARIZONA'S BOOMING ATOMIC TOURISM INDUSTRY THE L.A. DODGERS HAVE STAR POWER, BUT CAN THEY WIN IT ALL? BELIEVE THE SKYPE: SPANISH IMMERSION, EASY AS LOGGING ON

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09/08/2013 14:23

Celebrating

120 Years

Genuine Values since 1893

SAN FRANCISCO

Shreve & Co Tel. + 1 415 860 4010

BERLIN KaDeWe Tel. + 49 30 21 01 65 80 Hotel Adlon Tel. + 49 30 20 45 52 88

HONG KONG

ifc Tel. + 852 25 40 10 28

LONDON: Boodles • BEIJING: China World Mall, Phase 3 • DUSSELDORF: Königsallee 60 • ZURICH: Beyer VIENNA: Am Graben 14 • TOKYO: Mikimoto • Wellendorff, Tel. (+49) 7231 – 28 40 128 • www.wellendorff.com

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07/08/2013 14:22

YOUR COMPLIMENTARY COPY

72 THE HEMI Q&A Fashion luminary Michael Kors on beauty, Michelle Obama and reality TV

76 MERGERS AND ACQUISITIONS Three New York style brokers navigate the rules of attraction

87 ON THE NUCLEAR TRAIL Decades after the Cold War’s climax, David Sirota follows a trail of defunct warheads in Arizona

DAVID EUSTACE

WELCOME ABOARD

CEO LETTER A word from Jeff Smisek

VOICES A message to ﬂyers

CONNECTIONS What’s new at United

THREE PERFECT DAYS: NASHVILLE

Hitting all the high notes in Music City

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • SEPTEMBER 2013

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09/08/2013 10:05

DISPATCHES News and notes from around the world

DOWNLOAD OUR FREE APP FROM ITUNES OR GOOGLE PLAY

CULTURE THE MONTH AHEAD

What to read, watch and listen to in September

FOOD & DRINK

The roots of the Peruvian invasion

GOODS

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Function meets fashion: three cities, three bikes

WEAR IN ... BERLIN

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

44 facebook.com/UnitedHemispheres

Fashion tips from clothing curator Daniel Werner

STAY

twitter.com/hemispheresmag

From London to Manila, this month’s hottest hotels

AUTO-TATION

Conquering Monaco in the Maserati Quattroporte

TRAVEL ESSAY

Plane travel: the last vestige of living unplugged

THE FAN

The Dodgers’ ill-advised attempt to buy success

25 ABOUT THE COVER: A pair of high-end cowboy boots found at one of the many shops on Honky Tonk Row in Nashville (Vince Wallace/Silver Hill Images)

BRIGHT IDEAS HOW IT’S DONE

The next tech bubble is ... Internet balloons

INDUSTRY

Skype: In Latin America, it’s Spanish for opportunity

TECH

52 66

Alan Alda’s war against science-speak

Movies, Television and Audio Programming

118

Crossword and Sudoku

126

Route Maps, Customs & Immigration, Our Fleet, Terminal Diagrams, Safety & Travel Assistance, MileagePlus and Alliances & Partnerships

131

Food & Beverages

148

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PHOTOGRAPHY MUSUK NOLTE, REX FEATURES

ENTERTAINMENT AND INFORMATION

WRITE TO US: editorial@hemispheresmagazine.com 68 Jay St., Ste. 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201

SEPTEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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TOWN & COUNTRY HEMISPHERES GETS INCREDIBLY town and country this month. Seriously, we deftly move from a one-on-one with fashion mogul Michael Kors in an uptown Manha an hotel to a raucous strip of honky-tonks for our cover story, “Three Perfect Days: Nashville.” Not far-ﬂung enough for ya? How about fashion authority Daniel Werner giving inside tips on how to dress in Berlin in the same issue as journalist David Sirota touring the declassiﬁed military sites of Arizona’s Nuclear Trail. We’ve got executive editor Chris Wright reporting on a wise-cracking former New Jersey governor in the same section as Dispatches correspondent Chris Swanicke covering an international comedy night in Jakarta. Meanwhile, Newark native Queen Latifah shares the culture pages with British comedy icon Stephen Merchant. Hemispheres? We’ve got them all covered—including the cultural ones. —The Editors

EDITOR IN CHIEF Jordan Heller EXECUTIVE EDITOR Chris Wright MANAGING EDITOR Jaime Lowe SENIOR EDITOR Jacqueline Detwiler FASHION EDITOR Nino Bauti ART DIRECTOR Christos Hannides ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Claire Eckstrom PHOTO EDITOR Julia Holmes, Sam Polcer CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Jay Cheshes, Alyssa Giacobbe, Mike Guy, Michael Kaplan, Adam K. Raymond, Cristina Rouvalis, Grant Stoddard CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS

Christine Berrie, Peter James Field, Alex Nabaum, Peter Oumanski, James Provost, Steve Stankiewicz EXECUTIVE CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Michael Keating Ink, 68 Jay St., Ste. 315, Brooklyn, NY 11201 Tel: +1 347-294-1220 Fax: +1 917-591-6247 editorial@hemispheresmagazine.com hemispheresmagazine.com WEBMASTER Salah Lababidi

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Daniela Cateriano SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

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Stacy Willis MARKETING MANAGER

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Christian Storer

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DAVID EUSTACE is a founding member of photo agency Magnum who’s snapped such luminaries as Sophia Loren, James Earl Jones and Sir Paul McCartney. He’s also a former prison guard and fruitmonger who served as a minesweeper in Her Majesty’s Royal Navy, all of which is to say that his haphazard history makes him the perfect candidate to capture the varied personalities of Nashville on page 92.

MARA GAY is a New York City–based journalist who writes for the Wall Street Journal. On page 63, she talks to female Spanish-language teachers in Latin America who are using Skype to teach students in the U.S. and Europe. After reporting her story, she’s decided she’s probably in need of some language lessons herself. Gay has also written for the Atlantic Monthly, New York and Esquire, among others.

Ink (sales), Capital Building, 255 E. Paces Ferry Rd., Ste. 400, Atlanta, GA 30305 Tel: +1 888-864-1733 Fax: +1 917-591-6247 Ink CEO Jeffrey O’Rourke COO Hugh Godsal PUBLISHING DIRECTOR Simon Leslie HEMISPHERES is produced monthly by Ink. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions expressed in Hemispheres are not necessarily those of the Publisher or United Airlines, and United Airlines does not accept any responsibility for advertising content. Neither United, its subsidiaries nor affiliates guarantees the accuracy, completeness or timeliness of, or otherwise endorses these facts, views, opinions or recommendations, gives investment advice, or advocates the purchase or sale of any security or investment. You should always seek the assistance of a professional for tax and investment advice. Any images are supplied at the owner’s risk. Any mention of United Airlines or the use of United Airlines logo by any advertiser in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company or its products or services by United Airlines.

PHOTOGRAPHY: DAVID EUSTACE

DAVID SIROTA is a journalist, television commentator, radio show host, Salon columnist and best-selling author living in Denver, Colorado. Sirota’s obsession with ’80s pop culture led him to the atomic tourism story on page 87. In fact, he visited the nuclear trail of the American Southwest on the 30th anniversary of the release of the 1983 Cold War thriller WarGames. Follow him on Twitter @davidsirota.

SEPTEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

09/08/2013 10:10

Break Free from the Bars

Why use your smartphone for driving directions? The new 2013 nüvi line is designed just for driving with highly accurate map data that relies on satellites, not cell towers and big, bright screens that focus on the road. New Garmin Real Directions™ with Garmin Real Voice™ sound as if spoken by a friend, using easy-to-see landmarks, buildings and traffic lights. Active Lane Guidance with voice prompts shows – and tells – which lane you need for your next turn. Real Navigation. See all that’s new at Garmin.com/nuvi

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03/04/2013 08:59

CEO LETTER

Giving Back

elcome aboard, and thanks for flying United today. Every day, my co-workers build our Working Together culture based on dignity, respect and direct, open and honest communication with each other and our customers. At United, we go beyond getting you to your destination, and are commi ed to making a positive difference in the communities where we live and work. It’s an important part of who we are at United. We want to encourage and recognize the value co-workers bring to our communities through volunteerism, which is why we began United’s Volunteer Impact Grant Program two years ago. Since the program’s inception, the program has awarded $156,000 in grants to nearly 150 nonprofit organizations where our co-workers volunteer their time. In addition, this year we

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will give grants to 10 co-worker-sponsored environmental service projects, ranging from tree plantings to environmental education programs, through the United Airlines Eco-Skies Community Grants. This month, we will once again partner with Feeding America for Hunger Action Month to help ensure that families have enough to eat, and children receive the nutrition they need to succeed in the classroom. During this month, we will donate to Feeding America a portion of the proceeds from Choice Menu sales on all United flights. Also, throughout September and October, our United coworkers will be hosting events at food banks throughout the country and in each of our hub cities. For more information or to donate miles to this important cause, please visit united.com/feedingamerica. We are a global company with employees

across the world, allowing us to use our reach to help others. We also use that global reach to respond to disasters in times of need by transporting supplies and volunteers almost anywhere. We provided valuable assistance and resources during tragic events like Superstorm Sandy, the Asian tsunami and the earthquake in Haiti. I’m very proud of the work we do at United to give back to our communities. Thanks for choosing to ﬂy with us today. We appreciate your business and hope to see you on board again soon.

CHAIRMAN OF THE BOARD, PRESIDENT AND CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER, UNITED AIRLINES

SEPTEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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Get online, in flight. Stay connected with satellite Wi-Fi, available on more flights each week.

With our satellite Wi-Fi you can surf, send and share from the air. Look for the United Wi-Fi SM symbol on your next ﬂight or learn more at united.com/wiﬁ.

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02/08/2013 09:20

VOICES

Expecting the Unexpected Jay Hakim loves the challenge of disrupting service interruptions. BY A. AVERYL RE

ay Hakim has spent more than 22 years focused on what happens when things don’t go as planned for airline customers. And customers have a big reason to be glad he did. As manager of the information technology administration for service recovery applications, he oversees a critical program designed to enable United to serve customers proactively during irregular operations such as weather delays or cancellations. He ﬁrst began working at the airline part time on the ramp during his student days at the University of Houston, where he studied electrical engineering. He spent eight years in Reservations working at the Service Recovery desk. That is where Hakim discovered his passion for helping customers who, for one reason or another, weren’t where they or the airline wanted them to be. “We contacted the customers when we

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could to work with them to make sure they get to their destination in a timely manner.” He goes on to explain the challenge of the Service Recovery desk: “When we had a major issue, such as a large storm system causing delays, cancellations or diversion, we needed hundreds of staff to provide the changes customers needed. And it usually took three to five minutes per customer to find the best option.” Then a customer from a delayed flight commented, “I was on a four-hour flight, and you knew the flight was late. You should have looked out for that to rebook it before I landed.” That sentiment drove the development of the Customer Automated Reaccommodation System (or CARS), an application Hakim says was “was built by airline employees for the airline” to make rebooking customers more timely and less labor-intensive. He helped develop it from the

beginning in 1999. “For customers affected by cancellations, diversions, or delays, CARS automatically rebooks them to alternate flights to get them to their destination as close as possible to their original arrival time. It reads real-time flight information and prioritizes customers based on criteria such as whether or not they are making connections. It does all of that in one to three seconds per record and can process 36 flights at the same time. The system automatically notifies customers of new flight information – one important reason United requests customers provide mobile contact information or email before traveling. For customers who want to select different flights, the program interacts with United’s kiosks, mobile app and united.com to make rebooking easier. In 2012 alone, CARS reaccommodated 2,792,636 customers. Hakim says service disruptions are a reality given weather and the airline’s focus on safety, but it is how the airline treats customers that makes the difference in a successful recovery. “When I worked on the service-recovery desk, I learned as long as we offer the customers a realistic option, work with them and give them honest answers, I hardly had any customers who were angry or dissatisfied.” Even though CARS is a mature system, Hakim says his group hasn’t stopped working on it. “We have to keep up with the ever-changing environment. We have had to make sure the system is up to date on all the equipment out there and that we have reliable flight-information. We have to make sure it has accurate real-time information to get the best choices for our customers.” In addition, he says his team looks to the future to make sure the system evolves to keep up with customer needs, such as ensuring customers who pay for premium seats have a comparable seat on substituted flights. When not thinking about service recovery, Hakim spends his time on travel, gardening and photography. But he never quite gets away from thinking about aviation. Every year around Halloween, he makes airplanes out of pumpkins, something he has done for about six years. “The pumpkin has to be the right size and the right shape,” he says. “I called the first one P757; the P stands for pumpkin. Now I just need to figure out how to make them fly.” This year, Hakim tackles his version of United’s newest fleet type – the P787.

SEPTEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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07/08/2013 09:22

CONNECTIONS ASK THE PILOT

With Captain Mike Bowers

Q: Why do some runways criss-cross each other? How do intersecting runways affect takeoffs and landings?

Choice for Good WANT A BITE IN-FLIGHT? Your next in-flight snack purchase can satisfy your hunger – and that of needy individuals and families across the United States. Last month, United introduced its new Choice Menu Bistro on Board, offering new fresh food items in United Economy on most flights scheduled for more than three-and-ahalf hours within North America and to and from Central America. For breakfast, you might enjoy a ham and Swiss baguette, sweet cheese pastry or our morning energy selection. (Morning energy: think protein!) For lunch or dinner, artisan cheeses; a caprese bague e; a bacon, le uce and tomato wrap; a roast beef and cheddar baguette; and an Asian-style noodle salad may be on the menu. Certain Hawaii flights also offer warm skillet dishes.

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If you’re looking for lighter fare, the Choice Menu Snack Shop oﬀers three snack boxes plus candy, pita chips and hummus, granola bars, Pringles and Chex Mix. Packaging for Choice Menu fresh options has changed as well, with environmentally friendly packaging replacing traditional packaging. When you purchase items from the Choice Menu, you’re also helping those in need. Through the “Eat for Good” program, United donates a portion of the proceeds from Choice Menu sales throughout the year to nonprofit organizations. For the month of September—Hunger Action Month—United will donate to Feeding America, a wellknown hunger relief organization, and Common Threads, which provides nutrition education. –KAREN MAY

A: Because we always want to take off and land into the wind, runways are aligned with the prevailing winds. Because wind patterns can change with varying weather conditions, most airports have additional runways aligned with different potential wind directions. Unless the airport has a large amount of area to use, the runways normally cross each other. When wind conditions allow, air traffic controllers may coordinate the ﬂow of traffic to enable the use of intersecting runways -- of course, keeping airplanes safely separated.

Do you have a question for Captain Bowers? You can write to him at askthepilot@united.com.

SEPTEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

09/08/2013 10:11

Gobi 4G LTE connects the Dell Latitude tablet with more longitude. ™

Dell Latitude 10 Tablet

At the ofﬁce, on a plane or just about anywhere your business takes you. Staying competitive means staying connected. With Qualcomm® Gobi™ 4G LTE built in, Dell tablets and laptops connect you to the Cloud faster and in more places around the world. Wherever you do business, staying connected has never been easier. Learn more at dell.com/gobi ©2013 Qualcomm Technologies, Inc. All rights reserved. Qualcomm and Gobi are trademarks of Qualcomm Incorporated, registered in the United States and other countries. Trademarks of Qualcomm Incorporated are used with permission. Other products and brand names may be trademarks or registered trademarks of their respective owners.

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07/08/2013 14:22

NA HOKU KOA COLLECTION

Na Hoku Watch with Koa and Steel Bracelet and Mother-of-Pearl Dial $395 Na Hoku Chronograph Watch with Koa and Steel Bracelet $595

Na Hoku Dress Watch with Koa and Steel Bracelet $375

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OAHU: Ala Moana Center t Outrigger Waikiki on Kalakaua Avenue t Waikiki Beachwalk t Hilton Hawaiian Village MAUI: The Shops at Wailea t Whalers Village t Front Street t Lahaina Cannery t Queen Kaâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;ahumanu Center t Hyatt Regency Maui t Grand Wailea Resort KAUAI: Poipu Shopping Village t Grand Hyatt Kauai BIG ISLAND OF HAWAII: Kona Marketplace t Kingsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Shops t Hilton Waikoloa Village #0450/ /BUJDL .BMM t /PSUITIPSF .BMM $)*$"(0 0BLCSPPL $FOUFS t Woodfield Mall DALLAS: NorthPark Center DENVER: Cherry Creek Shopping Center LOS ANGELES: Glendale Galleria NEW YORK: Roosevelt Field ORLANDO: The Florida Mall PHILADELPHIA: The Plaza at King of Prussia PLEASANTON: Stoneridge Mall PORTLAND: Washington Square SAN DIEGO: Fashion VBMMFZ t )PSUPO 1MB[B 4"/ '3"/$*4$0 1*&3 4"/ +04& Valley Fair SEATTLE: Bellevue Square WASHINGTON, D.C.: Tysons Corner Center

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03/05/2013 16:12

DISPATCHES NEWS AND NOTES FROM AROUND THE WORLD

TH E SKY’S THE LIMIT THE TH E INCREASINGLY INCR IN CREA EASI SING NGLY LY LUCRATIVE LLUC UCRA RATI TIVE VE M MAR MARKET ARKE KET T FO FOR R THIN THIN AIR AIR Paying P Pa y millions for air might sound like a bit of a scam, but in crowded cities like lliik New York and Los Angeles, owners can (and do) sell the empty spaces above their properties to neighboring owners wishing for unobstructed ab a b views. The way it works is if your building doesn’t meet its allo ed height v ie limit liim miit or occupies only part of a plot, then the remaining cubic feet are yours to sell. s ll se ll. Laws concerning “air rights” date back to medieval times, but the market has h soared along with our skyscrapers. Here, a few notable examples. JAMES BARTLETT

■ In the mid 1980s, developers of the U.S. Bank Tower in downtown Los Angeles paid more than $125M for the air rights of the neighboring Central Library. The 72-story Bank Tower also bears the distinction of being the ﬁrst structure to get blown up in the 1996 ﬁlm Independence Day. ■ Famous for its appearance in 1982’s Blade Runner, L.A.’s romanesque revival Bradbury Building sold its air rights for $1M to developers who wanted to build a skyscraper nearby.

■ Donald Trump snapped up the air rights to at least seven buildings in order to have his 72-story Trump World Tower, completed in 2001, stand as a monolith above United Nations Plaza. Buyers have been willing to pay $25M or more for an upper-level condo.

■ Two Manhattan properties—the United Methodist Christ Church and the Grolier Club on Park Avenue—were set to share $37M (or $430 per square foot) for their air rights, next to a proposed 35-story apartment building, but the deal fell through in 2005.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • SEPTEMBER 2013 • ILLUSTRATION BY GAVIN POTENZA

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■ The same United Methodist Christ Church on Park Avenue and 60th Street will earn a reported $40M for its air rights—at a record selling price of $600 per foot—as developers are looking to build a 51-story apartment tower, which would set a new record as the tallest residential building in New York. ■ The investment ﬁrm that owns Manhattan’s Grand Central Terminal is, controversially, looking to get $500 per square foot for its property’s air rights— twice the amount that the city has deemed reasonable. With over a million square feet available, that’s serious money for empty sky.

07/08/2013 15:01

DISPATCHES

LOS ANGELES

THE LAB REPORT Sammy has psychological issues; Shelley is here to ﬁnd out why BY CRAIG STEPHENS

SEATED AT A ROUND TABLE in a sparse apartment in downtown Los Angeles, two women stare blankly at one another over a flickering candle. One, wearing a colorful headscarf, has something to reveal. “I sense Sammy is suffering separation anxiety,” she says. “He’s lonely and was simply acting out.” The Sammy in question is a five-year-old Labrador. His owner, a retired realtor from Van Nuys, has come here to try to figure out why he recently wrecked her apartment. The dog sits impassively as Shelley Hofberg peers into his eyes, possibly trying to fathom an even deeper reason for his actions. Hofberg is a psychic, healer and

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paranormal investigator of some renown. She is also in demand as a pet empath. “It all started when I was a child of eight,” she explains. “Our Siamese cat became ill and I began feeling something in my stomach when it was around. This was due to me being empathic. My parents took it to a vet who conﬁrmed it had an issue with its intestine.” Now in her 60s, Hofberg has been working with animals professionally since the late 1980s. “I communicate with them via telepathy,” she says. “I can pick up on the thoughts and emotions of the animal.” She is also good at gauging the thoughts and emotions of the pets’

owners, although this tends to be more of a deductive process. “An owner wants to know how the pet feels about them,” she says. “Or if there’s some sort of behavioral issue or possibly health issue.” As for Sammy, she hasn’t quite cracked that nut yet—but, in the grand scheme of things, a homewrecking Lab shouldn’t pose too much of a challenge. Hofberg recalls one of her more difficult cases, a Chihuahua named Juan with a history of abuse. “His former owner had tossed him around, so he was very vicious and resentful with his second owner,” she says, adding: “I helped him overcome that and adapt to his new home.”

ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER OUMANSKI • SEPTEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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06/08/2013 14:56

DISPATCHES NEWARK, N.J.

THE GOVERNORS’ CURVEBALL POLITICS AND PERFORMANCE CROSS PATHS IN NEW JERSEY Brendan Byrne makes his way through the lobby of the New Jersey Performing Arts Center, trying to ﬁgure out where he’s supposed to be. Dressed in a seersucker suit, his bushy white eyebrows tilted in a theatrical display of uncertainty, the 89-year-old tries to check in at the media accreditation table, which isn’t right. A PR person intervenes, giving the 47th governor of New Jersey (1974 to 1982) the red carpet treatment he deserves. Byrne is one of the participants in what is being billed as an auspicious event: a lunchtime panel discussion featuring ﬁve “legendary” Garden State governors (the other four being Thomas Kean, James Florio, Christine Todd Whitman and James

LONDON

DEATH BECOMES THEM An online social gathering shines light at the end of the tunnel Two years ago, a Londoner named Jon Underwood hosted a gathering in the basement of his home. The event involved cake, tea and a friendly chat about how we’re all going to die. The socalled Death Café has since snowballed into a global social franchise, with facilitators leading similar discussions about the inevitable end in venues ranging from yurts to concert halls. Now, to mark the occasion of the 100th meeting, Underwood has invited

VOODOO ECONOMICS BENIN • Namari Godogo, a voodoo priest in the remote West African village of Taneka Koko, is said by locals to have the power of ﬂight. Today, wearing animal skins and a tree-bark hat, he sits smoking a pipe in the shade of his mud hut. Through an interpreter,

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McGreevey). And it’s not long before the one-time Democratic heavyweight gives his younger successors a lesson in how to work a room. Accompanied by the tinkling of silverware on china, the event’s moderator begins with an icebreaker: What did the panelists most admire about the governor who followed them? Seated at the center of the dais, Byrne cups a hand around his ear and asks for the question again. Then, having received it, he says that he most admired the way his successor “used the same photographer for the official portrait,” which gets a big laugh.

his followers to ponder life’s eternal mystery via video conference. Holistic therapist Eveian Salmon is one of the ﬁrst to enter this new territory. From her living room in London, she appears on Skype at midday, bright and breezy in front of a shoji screen, and quickly launches into the ma er at hand. “I’m always interested in talking about death,” she chirps. She produces a newspaper with the headline “Hot Summers Could Turn London into Isle of Death.” Then, having lost none of her pep, she chimes in with a question: “So, how long would you like to live?” Following a brief interlude of um-ing and ah-ing, the participants se le on 80.

The former governor doesn’t stop there. While the other panelists deliver weighty opinions on education and budget reform, Byrne seems content to lob the occasional zinger into the mix. “In New Jersey, if you’re not getting something for nothing, you’re not getting your fair share,” he remarks at one point. Later, in the midst of getting worked up about ﬁscal ineptitude in the current statehouse, he interrupts himself: “Ah, that’s all right; I’m gonna be gone soon.” Afterward, Byrne’s wife, Ruthi, who arranged the event, holds court amid plates of half-eaten chicken. “He’s smart as hell and funny as all get-out,” she says of her husband. NJPAC boss John Schreiber—who went out on a limb by hosting a political debate at the state’s ﬂagship performance venue—seems especially pleased with how things turned out. “In New Jersey,” he says from the sidelines, “politics is entertainment.”—CHRIS WRIGHT

So it goes for the duration of the hour-long call. There’s cake and the passing of Margaret Thatcher, tea and the possibility of an a erlife. “While we’re here on this Earth, you know, we should appreciate it,” Salmon says at the end, sunlight streaming through the window behind her. “You might be living now, but tomorrow you might not, so make the most of everything.” —HANNAH STUART-LEACH everything.

AN ESTEEMED HOLY MAN PROVIDES A LESSON IN SELF MARKETING Godogo asks a visitor if he has ever ﬂown. Yes, the visitor replies, in an airplane. “Did you see God from this airplane?” No. “Then what good is an airplane?” So goes he conversation. Later, following an impromptu photo op, Godogo’s wife announces that there

is a $3 fee for snapshots. Upon receipt of the money, she asks if the holy man had been smoking when the picture was taken. He had. “Ah,” the wife says, running her ﬁnger down a laminated card. “Then that is another dollar!” —JAMES MICHAEL DORSEY

SEPTEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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04/06/2013 15:28

DISPATCHES JAKARTA, INDONESIA

TOTE GAGS A SINGAPOREAN, AN AMERICAN AND A BRIT WALK INTO A BAR—WHAT’S A JOKE THAT WILL MAKE THEM ALL LAUGH? Three comedians from three different corners of the world sit at a table at the American Club’s compound in Jakarta. “I have to go network, talk to people,” says Fakkah Fuzz, who’s Singaporean. He’s been jotting down ideas on a small notepad, and, after slapping it closed, starts to work the room. The comedians are here for a regular event hosted by the Jakarta Comedy Club, which tonight has a truly international ﬂavor. Joining Fuzz onstage are Steve Harris, who’s ﬂown

in from the U.K., and a Russian-American named Daniel Kinno. The three have been swapping jokes, and arguing about which jokes travel and which ones are lost in translation. A few minutes later Fuzz returns and tells a Peter-Pan-tries-to-pickup-women gag he’s been testing on people in the room. “Do you think it’s funny, Daniel?” “That joke won’t travel,” Kinno says bluntly. He goes on to recall making a crack about Fenway Park in a Los Angeles club once,

and how it landed with a thud. It was then he learned to remove local color from far-ﬂung gigs. All three are familiar with the challenges of global audiences. Fuzz plays off his multiculturalism—he speaks Malay, English and Mandarin—while Kinno brings an unabashedly American perspective. Harris’ potty humor seems to have the widest appeal. His jokes, at least, get the big laughs. A dirty joke ending with Harris barking like a chimpanzee, in particular, is a cross-cultural kneeslapper. After the show, the comedians mix it up with the crowd. A burly Scottish

guy who’d sat in stony silence as Kinno ribbed him during his set comes over smiling, thanking him for the performance. In a couple of days, the American will be in Kuala Lumpur, where the shtick might not go down quite so well, but Kinno doesn’t seem overly concerned. “It’s a charmed way to see the world,” he says. —CHRIS SWANICKE

THE TRUTH ABOUT CATS AND DOGS MEET THE BREEDS, IN NUMBERS Come the end of this month, it’ll literally be raining cats and dogs in New York City. Okay, maybe not literally, but there will be a great many furry cri ers racing, leaping and ﬂouncing around during the American Kennel Club’s “Meet the Breeds” event, which is being billed as “the world’s largest gathering of dogs and cats.” PERCENTAGE OF AMERICANS WHO ADMIT TO TALKING TO THEIR DOGS ON THE PHONE

It’s unclear if it’s officially the largest gathering ever, but we can confirm that the meet will feature more than 200 breeds, that the average cat can jump five times its own height without the aid of a trampoline and that a fairly intelligent dog can understand up to 200 words. Here, a selection of similarly thought-provoking facts.—CHRIS WRIGHT

PERCENTAGE OF THE DAY THE AVERAGE CAT SPENDS SLEEPING

66%

NUMBER OF TIMES PER SECOND THAT THE MUSCLES IN A CAT’S THROAT CONTRACT DURING A PURR

LENGTH OF ZEUS, A GREAT DANE FROM MICHIGAN, FROM NOSE TO TAIL

7 FEET, 4 INCHES

33%

NUMBER OF MASTIFFS OWNED BY 13TH-CENTURY MONGOLIAN EMPEROR KUBLAI KHAN

$1.5 MILLION

APPROXIMATE NUMBER OF DISTINCT NOISES CATS CAN PRODUCE

100 TOP SPEED OF A CAT RUNNING AT FULL TILT OVER A SHORT DISTANCE

31 MPH 22

p018-022_HEM0913_Globetrotting.indd 22

INFOGRAPHIC: CLAIRE ECKSTROM

AMOUNT A CHINESE BUSINESSMAN PAID IN 2011 FOR BIG SPLASH, A RED TIBETAN MASTIFF

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08/03/2013 14:54

culture ARTS MEDIA EVENTS

THE MONTH AHEAD

Tag, Stavanger Is It David Choe gives his “stamp of approval” to a Norwegian street art festival Since 2001, the Norwegian city of Stavanger has invited artists from around the world to make their mark on its public spaces. Tagging in this year’s Nuart street art festival are up-and-comers like Faith 47 and HUSH. The marquee name, however, is Los Angeles-based David Choe (the man who famously painted the Facebook oﬃces, was paid in shares and scored a reported $200 million as a result). Choe’s chaotic, technically brilliant work has elevated him to superstar status in art circles. So it’s no small thing that he has described Nuart as “The best street art festival in the world.” As organizer Martyn Reed puts it: “This will be David’s third visit, and for a multi-zillionaire with no shortage of invites to world events, I’d say it’s a major stamp of approval.” sept. 7

JOHN RODGER

ON THE NOSE Choe’s mural from the 2011 Nuart festival

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • SEPTEMBER 2013

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07/08/2013 11:20

culture || THE MONTH AHEAD

Chat Roule e Queen Latifah takes a gamble on a new daytime TV show Daytime television has become a very different space since 1999, when hip-hop legend Queen Latifah—née Dana Owens—took her first stab at hosting a talk show. For one thing, “The Oprah Winfrey Show” has said its ﬁnal goodbyes, but there are new obstacles to success: an ever expanding 24-hour news cycle, competing reality stars and, well, the Internet. Owens thinks she has the solution: Her second a empt, launching this month, will bring the comic irreverence and musical guests of late-night variety shows like “Late Night with Jimmy Fallon” to daytime. Oprah, this lady is not. “I’m absolutely not trying to become Oprah. I’d love to create a show that has the level of quality that hers did, and, let’s face it, the ratings, you know?” she laughs. “But I think I understand that we’re in the digital age now and I love hearing fresh, new music, so any new acts that I feel are bubbling under that people don’t know about, I want to give them a shot at a national audience.”

TALKING POINTS Queen Latifah looking regal; with Jamie Foxx on her ﬁrst talk show in 2000

Owens also cites her potential for mass appeal. “I’ve always had an interesting demographic that’s crossed age barriers, race barriers and gender barriers, and I love to bring all of those people together—welcome them into my home, if you know what I’m saying,” she says. Though she suggests there might be regular appearances from rap royalty (there will be a “revolving door” for friends, she says), Owens says she plans on being all-encompassing in her invitations to musical guests. Expect everything from country to rock and roll. “I remember watching a performance by U2 on ‘Saturday Night Live’ and I’ve never seen anyone

work the cameras the way Bono worked those cameras,” Owens recalls. “Like, he literally grabbed the jib camera and pulled it around with him, and I’m like, ‘That is a performance.’ So of course U2 is welcome on my show anytime. Grab all my cameras, man. Do what you want!” —JACQUELINE DETWILER SEPT. 16

“REACH INTO THE LOOMING AND PROPHETIC LANDFILL, THAT PERFECT NEGATIVE OF THE CITY IN ITS SEETHING FOUL INCOHERENCE, AND FIND ... A PIECE OF ANCIENT ESTUARY EXEMPT FROM WHAT HAPPENED, WHAT HAS GONE ON HAPPENING.” —From Thomas Pynchon’s latest novel, Bleeding Edge, set in pre-9/11 New York SEPT. 16

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SEPTEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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culture || THE MONTH AHEAD

S BACK TRACK s s learn some new trick Old dog

HIT AND RUN DeNiro in The Family

ARTIST: STING ALBUM: The Last Ship (Sept. 23) YEARS SINCE LAST ALBUM: 3 NEW TWIST: It’s actually the soundtrack to a musical about shipbuild-

ing, which will go into production next year. POTENTIAL SUCCESS: It suddenly seems like Broadway is what Sting’s entire post-Police output has been building to. Slam dunk. ARTIST: YOKO ONO PLASTIC ONO BAND ALBUM: Take Me to the Land of Hell (Sept. 17) YEARS SINCE LAST ALBUM: 4 NEW TWIST: The album features musical and typographical innovators

ARTIST: NINE INCH NAILS ALBUM: Hesitation Marks (Sept. 3) YEARS SINCE LAST ALBUM: 5 NEW TWIST: Lindsey Buckingham does guest vocals. Yes, that Lindsey

Buckingham. Also: new logo. POTENTIAL SUCCESS: Black eyeliner never goes out of style.

ARTIST: ELTON JOHN ALBUM: The Diving Board (Sept. 24) YEARS SINCE LAST ALBUM: 7 NEW TWIST: Not so much a new twist as an old one—it has the same

piano, bass and drums that marked John’s early recordings. POTENTIAL SUCCESS: His solo albums haven’t broken the top 10 on the U.S. Billboard chart since 1997, but the stripped-down approach may intrigue older fans. ARTIST: CHER ALBUM: Closer to the Truth (Sept. 24) YEARS SINCE LAST ALBUM: 11 NEW TWIST: Cher does country on one song, while trance-master Paul

Oakenfold produced the lead single. POTENTIAL SUCCESS: There was a collaboration with Lady Gaga, who didn’t like the result and blocked its release—which isn’t a good sign, considering Gaga’s pop instincts. ARTIST: SEBADOH ALBUM: Defend Yourself (Sept. 17) YEARS SINCE LAST ALBUM: 14 NEW TWIST: New drummer. POTENTIAL SUCCESS: Lo-ﬁ indie rock is back, along with the rest of

the ’90s. See: The reunions of Dinosaur Jr. and Sentridoh, which is Sebadoh frontman Lou Barlow’s side project. ARTIST: TOAD THE WET SPROCKET ALBUM: New Constellation (Sept. 17) YEARS SINCE LAST ALBUM: 16 NEW TWIST: Do you need a twist after 16 years away? POTENTIAL SUCCESS: FM radio could never get enough of these

saccharine alt-rockers with the Monty Python–inspired name. But FM radio ain’t what it used to be.

p025-030_HEM0913_Culture.indd 28

Everyone understands that movies require audiences to suspend disbelief, but, as a few of this month’s oﬀerings demonstrate, that can sometimes be a big ask.

Adore IMPROBABILITY RATING: 6/10 Perhaps the most unlikely thing about this movie isn’t the scandalous plotline—although a ﬁlm about two best friends who fall for each other’s sons did raise eyebrows when it premiered at Sundance (with Naomi Watts and Robin Wright as the two cougars)—it’s the fact that it’s based on a novella Doris Lessing published at 84.

The Family IMPROBABILITY RATING: 7/10 In this latest outing from The Professional director Luc Besson, the FBI relocates a violent Brooklyn maﬁa clan into rural France. What could possibly go wrong? The only thing more implausible would be if this ﬁlm, which features the two most popular faces of Robert DeNiro—that of gangster and family man—doesn’t win big at the box office.

Muscle Shoals IMPROBABILITY RATING: 9/10 Oddly, the most unbelievable story of the three is actually true. Not only were “Brown Sugar,” “When a Man Loves a Woman,” “Mustang Sally,” “Free Bird” and countless other classic songs all recorded at Fame Studios, the subject of this charming documentary, but the studio was located in Muscle Shoals, a small Alabama town at the back end of nowhere.

FRANK OCKENFELS

like tUnEyArDs and ?uestlove. POTENTIAL SUCCESS: The avant-gardester has risen to the occasion for decades, most recently by curating the hugely successful Meltdown Festival in London. It’ll be brilliant, and sell 20 copies.

PREMISES, PREMISES

SEPTEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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culture || THE MONTH AHEAD

An exhibit of Bulgari masterpieces leaves no stone unturned It’s been said that celebrities are the modern equivalent of royalty, and if that’s true, then the best place to see the crown jewels is at this month’s Bulgari exhibit at San Francisco’s de Young Museum. Though the Italian jeweler has been operating since the late 1800s, the brand arguably reached the height of its popularity during the dolce vita era of the 1960s— when movie stars like Audrey Hepburn and Ingrid Bergman crawled the Italian countryside like so many ants on a wedge of Pecorino. Elizabeth Taylor loved the jeweler so much that her husband Richard Burton once said that “Bulgari” was the only word she knew in Italian. Several pieces from Taylor’s estate will appear at the exhibit, including these three must-sees. SEPT. 21

Puppet Power Kermit and Miss Piggy are household names now, but how did a rabble of wacky puppets take over prime-time TV? In Brian Jay Jones’ upcoming Jim Henson: The Biography, we get a behind-thescenes look.

p025-030_HEM0913_Culture.indd 30

EMERALD AND DIAMOND NECKLACE, 1962: Given to Taylor as a wedding gi from Richard Burton, the necklace was subsequently expanded to include a reset brooch from the couple’s engagement.

TREMBLANT BROOCH, 1960: Taylor was one of the last actresses to wear her own jewelry in her ﬁlms. This spring-set brooch appeared in Boom! and The V.I.P.s.

The Muppets appeared on the ﬁrst episode of “Saturday Night Live” “NBC was so scared of what Lorne [Michaels] … was doing that they insisted on Jim Henson and the Muppets to soften it.”

THE MYSTERY MIRROR, 1962: No one’s sure how this gold and turquoise mirror came to be in Taylor’s collection. It may have been a gi from 20th Century Fox for her starring turn in Cleopatra.

kick,’ said Frank Oz, who did voices for Miss Piggy and Fozzie Bear.”

Before becoming a primary character, Gonzo the Great was a bit-part player who lived in a cigar box “Gonzo was originally a sadMiss Piggy started as a eyed, bent-nosed Cigar Box backup dancer named Miss Frackle … who was written as a loser who did these Piggy Lee, with no lines horrible acts and thought “‘I was working on Miss they were great art.” Piggy with Jim [Henson], who was doing Kermit, and By season two, the writers the script called for her to and performers drafted a slap him. Instead of a slap, I gave him a funny karate list of dream guest hosts

“Dustin Hoffman, David Bowie, Salvador Dalí, Michael Caine, Robert DeNiro ... Frank Zappa, Meryl Streep, the entire Monty Python troupe and all four former Beatles.” The entire creative staff once sailed on the QE2 from New York to London “‘There were all these days when there is nothing happening out at sea … and we worked like fools!’ said writer Jerry Juhl. ‘That’s a typical Jim Henson vacation.’” SEPT. 24

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Rock Stars

SEPTEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

07/08/2013 11:21

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culture || THE MONTH AHEAD

A L S O O U T T H I S M O N T H

“The Oﬃce” co-creator Stephen Merchant takes his unlucky-in-love shtick to Hollywood

PERHAPS MORE THAN his long-time collaborator Ricky Gervais (“The li le ‘LADIES’ MAN Stephen fat man with the pug-nosed face,” as David Bowie famously warbled), Merchant tries Stephen Merchant was built for laughs. He stands a gangly six-foot-seven to score with his and has eyes that seem about to pop out of his head, a smile that looks like new HBO sitcom it was drawn by a five-year-old and social skills that can best be described as catastrophic. This, anyway, is the persona Merchant presents in “Hello Ladies,” the new HBO offering that marks his first solo television outing since he and Gervais hit it big with sitcoms like “The Office” and “Extras.” Born of a recent stand-up show of the same name, “Hello Ladies” has Merchant in the role of Stuart, a provincial Englishman trying his luck on the fringes of the Hollywood celebrity circuit. Or, as he puts it: “I play a nerd who doesn’t end up with the models.” The material in Merchant’s “Hello Ladies” stage show drew largely on the romantic pratfalls of his youth, and the sitcom can be seen as a kind of sequel to this, because Merchant has found himself moving through the very world he describes in the new show. “There’s something inherently funny,” he says, about the juxtaposition of L.A. glam and “this weird alien.” Merchant readily admits that he’s not being The Parting terribly grown-up about all this—that the lifestyle he’s currently pursuing is gratifying in Merchant’s take on moving forward the same way that, say, being a superhero would without Ricky Gervais be, or the pilot of a rocket ship. “It’s like I’m trying With “The Office,” “Extras” and “Life’s to exact revenge on the 14-year-old me, by living Too Short” to their credit, Stephen this glamorous life,” he says. “I’m trying to fulfill a Merchant and Ricky Gervais are a nearbasic adolescent fantasy.” perfect comedy team, which has some The proble problem with this scenario is that unfortuobservers concerned ed about the duo going their separatee ways. nate autobiographical details are the cornerstone autobiog Already, Gervais’ new ew solo to much of Merchant’s comedy, and so access M project, a television series to the inner sa sanctum of American celebrity has called “Derek”—duee Sept. not resulted iin him having more success on the 12 on Netflix—has been dating scene. scene “All it means,” he says, “is that now I panned by critics who ho get rejected reject by much more choosy women.” accuse the show of making While the initial run for “Hello Ladies” fun of disabled people. ple. When asked if he’s e’s is only eight episodes, Merchant feels e concerned that theyy confident den he’ll get the green light for more. might have lost something mething Either way, w he says, he’s loved pu ing by going out on their ir own, the show sho together, as it makes up for the Merchant momentarily arily loses failures in his romatic life. “When you’re his good humor. “That hat may six-foot-seven and look like me, there’s six-foot be the case,” he says. ys. “But it’s a rather melancholyy way of something somethi kind of comforting about doing looking at things. I don’t look at this,” he says. “You get to control when this as if I’ve broken up the band. people lau laugh.” I see it as a solo album.” um.”

p025-030_HEM0913_Culture.indd 32

—CHRIS WR WRIGHT SEPT. 29

JAIMIE TRUEBLOOD/HBO, 2010 FILMMAGIC

TV The 65th Emmy Awards heap glory on Claire Danes and Julia Louis-Dreyfus // HBO’s Boardwalk Empire returns for a fourth outing BOOKS Tyler Hamilton’s The Secret Race: Inside the Hidden World of the Tour de France: Doping, Cover-Ups and Winning at All Costs enters the race for Longest Book Title of the Year FILM Jake Gyllenhaal and Hugh Jackman hunk it up in gritty thriller Prisoners // Ron Howard directs Rush, a non-gritty bio-drama about 1970s race car ace Niki Lauder ART New York’s MOMA brings us Magritte, of this-is-not-a-pipe fame

Lady and the Chump

SEPTEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

07/08/2013 11:21

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FOOD & DRINK

PICKING UP STEAM Central Restaurante chef Virgilio Martinez gets cooking

LIMA, PERU

THINK INCA

How Peruvian food (ﬁnally) conquered the world

MUSUK NOLTE

BY JOLYON HELTERMAN HAILING PERUVIAN CUISINE as the Next Big Thing has long been a favorite sport of culinary pundits. Bon Appétit called it as far back as 2005, and again in 2008. In 2011, the Wall Street Journal and at least a dozen respected food scribes touted Peruvian grub as the it cuisine. But a critical mass of cebiche enthusiasm never quite materialized. In 2013, however, with Lima’s Central Restaurante cracking the coveted “World’s 50 Best Restaurants” list and Astrid & Gastón

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • SEPTEMBER 2013

p037-041_HEM0913_F&D.indd 37

(also in Lima) leaping 21 spots to No. 14 from the previous year (the highest jump on the same list), it’s safe to say that food from the land of the Incas has ﬁnally become ho er than an aji amarillo chile. In short, you’ll want to commit the name of that pepper— Peru’s preferred source of culinary heat—to memory, along with causa (potato terrine), tiradito (sashimi-style ceviche), and lomo saltado (stir-fried beef and peppers). “The way Lima’s food scene has grown in the last five years is incredible,”

says Virgilio Martínez, chef of Central Restaurante. “I haven’t seen anything like it here before—people coming in for the weekend just to eat, from Europe, from America, even Asia.” Tracing the origin of any food trend is tricky, but a decent starting point for this one might be Mistura, this food festival in Lima that was founded in 2008 by Gastón Acurio, whose culinary empire includes seven outposts of his ﬂagship restaurant, Astrid & Gastón, and five

07/08/2013 15:03

CULTURE || FOOD & DRINK locations—including New York and San Francisco—of his upscale cebicheria, La Mar. The festival has brought international attention to the diverse bounty produced by Peru’s 84 microclimates. Think pristine seafood, obscure jungle ingredients like the quinoa-esque cañihua grain and the cherimoya fruit, and 4,000 varieties of potatoes. Last year, however, is when the buzz started to go truly global. First, there was the launch of celeb chef Richard Sandoval’s Raymi in Manhattan’s Flatiron district, and then, earlier this year, London fell hard for the trend with the arrivals of LIMA in London (another of Virgilio Martínez’s spots) and Ceviche Peruvian Kitchen. Other recent high-proﬁle openings include Above Eleven in Bangkok, Juvia in Miami and, perhaps most notably, Pakta—a 32-seat nikkei (PeruvianJapanese fusion) eatery in Barcelona from molecular-gastronomy kingpin Ferran Adrià, of El Bulli fame. When asked if the buzz could be a ﬂash in the sartén, Martínez shakes his head. “This curiosity in food from our country will only make local chefs more excited to experiment with dishes and ingredients from the wildest parts of Peru,” he says.

CHIP OFF THE OLD BLOCK Central Restaurante’s potato chips

BOARDING PASS Hankering for a nibble of cebiche or for some culinary heat in the form of an aji amarillo chile? United can get you to Lima’s food scene with nonstop service through its Houston and New York/ Newark hubs. Book your ﬂight, check in and download a boarding pass, and get ﬂight status updates using the United mobile boarding app available for your smartphone. To see schedule information or buy your tickets, go to united.com.

p037-041_HEM0913_F&D.indd 38

OH, HONEY A glass of liquid gold at Brothers Drake

BEE SEASON Now that honey wine brewers are using craft beer techniques, mead’s cup runneth over Despite the hokey Renaissance Faire stereotypes, the ancient honey wine known as mead is fast becoming the next darling of artisanal whistle we ing, thanks to brewers employing cross-genre techniques like dry hopping, barrel aging and herbal infusions (think lavender, green tea and black walnut) to cut the sweetness and add interesting ﬂavors. Like the makers of hard ciders before them, mead brewers are seeking to take a chunk out of the cra beer market. “Cra beer came ﬁrst, then cra distilleries, now mead is the next frontier,” says Eric Allen, general manager of Brothers Drake, an urban meadery and cocktail bar in Columbus, Ohio. Here, he mixes the honey wine with bourbon to add a li le sting. —LEAH KOENIG

COURTLAND COCKTAIL › 3 ounces Brothers Drake Apple Pie mead › 1 ounce OYO Whiskey 1. Build in glass and swirl to blend. Add one ice cube if desired.

SEPTEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

07/08/2013 15:03

My American Handmade Vodka beats the giant â&#x20AC;&#x153;Importsâ&#x20AC;? every day. That's because I distill it six times in old-fashioned pot stills I built myself and taste test every batch to make sure you get only the best. Try American!

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CULTURE || FOOD & DRINK

BURNING MAN Boston’s Frank McClelland has the secret to the perfect char

SMOKING HOT Frank McClelland; above, ash-coated veal loin

Shell Game Kabocha restaurant oﬀers an artistic take on the seafood tower

Just when you thought there was no way to improve on the tiered tower of shellﬁsh, here comes the recently opened Kabocha in Chicago’s West Loop—just in time for the months to end in “r” again. This new brasserie presents its lobster, prawns, scallops, oysters and crab on a bed of seaweed and edible squid ink “coral”—a display that comes off as an aquarium still life. It’s so pretty you may not even want to dig in. —CLAIRE OLIVER SUDS UP Chefs hop onto the artisan beer bandwagon As the white-hot craft beer boom rages on, some of the world’s top chefs have realized they might be the most qualiﬁed people around to do the brewing. Over the last year, big-name toques from all over the world have paired with industrial beer makers to launch heavily researched vanity pints for both commercial release and serving in their restaurants. Michelin-starred French chef Joël Robuchon, for instance,

released a lightly sweet and caramel-ﬂavored Sapporo brew made with malt from the Champagne region and spicy Nelson Sauvin hops earlier this year. More recently, Chicago’s reigning king of haute Mexican food, Rick Bayless, announced plans with Crown Imports HOP TO IT Brewmaster Morten Ibsen

PHOTO CREDIT TK - REMOVE IF EMPTY

THE DELICATE MEDLEY of radishes, onions, carrots, garlic and pea tendrils roasting away on Frank McClelland’s makeshi grill is starting to look a smidge blackened around the edges, but the chef nods approvingly. “Another six or seven hours should do it,” he says, plopping another heaping tangle of tendrils on the fragrant hardwood fire. We’re in the middle of a f ield on McClelland’s farm in Essex, Massachusetts, incinerating batch upon batch of veggies for use at L’Espalier, McClelland’s four-star French restaurant in Boston. There, the oily charred vegetable bits—or “ash”—will be tossed with tapioca powder and aromatic spices (like juniper berries and sumac), dried in a low oven and pulverized into a concentrated paste that can be brushed onto seafood, meats and vegetables for a subtle smokiness. That subtlety is key. Any steakhouse can conjure a char on an aged porterhouse, but that gutsy flavor profile is harder to achieve when working with, say, fragile Dover sole. Separating the production of the char from the cooking of the protein itself allows the smokiness to be deployed with greater nuance and control. Indeed, the very next night the ash appears at L’Espalier in a delicately smoky beet garnish for foie gras, as the ethereal backdrop to a bu ery dish of warmed Wellfleet oysters and brushed onto a mild-flavored beef tenderloin with bone marrow, cèpes and fermented garlic. While you can technically char anything edible, says McClelland, the sugarier the vegetable, the be er the ash. “I play around with the recipe a lot,” he says, “but I always try to keep the onions at about 50 percent.” —JH

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07/08/2013 15:03

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BRINE & DINE Sea urchin-esque lamps at Kabocha; above, the seafood aquarium

LLC (of Corona fame) to bring an as-yet-unnamed Latin-inﬂected brew to market sometime next year. The adventurous Nordic Food Lab, affiliated with Copenhagen’s Noma, meanwhile, announced a collaboration with mega brewer Carlsberg’s high-end Jacobsen line. Brewmaster Morten Ibsen told the Wall Street Journal he planned to experiment with bee larvae, seaweed, woodruff and pulverized cucumber, among other things. There are no plans as of yet to get really experimental, but with chefs at the helm, it may be only a matter of time before you can get your beer and appetizers in the same can. —CHRISTIAN DEBENEDETTI

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07/08/2013 15:04

goods

SPIN CITIES When it comes to bicycling in three diﬀerent towns, fashion is as important as function BY JACQUELINE DETWILER

New York When New York City unveiled its Citi Bike bicycle share program in June, the New York Times streetstyle photographer Bill Cunningham was ecstatic, saying, “What I love is to see them all on wheels on their way to work in the morning, in their business suits and the women in their oﬃce clothes.” Imagine if Mr. Cunningham came across a bicycle as stylish as the people riding them, like this cherry red Gramercy bike from Martone Cycling Company. Founded by former luxury fashion publicist Lorenzo Martone, this boutique bicycle company makes monochromatic rides especially built for N.Y.C. eﬃciency and style. They come in various colors, but each one has a signature red chain, a basket for shopping and a two-speed hub that shi s automatically when the rider reaches 10 mph. $899 / martonecycling.com

p042-043_HEM0913_Goods.indd 42

PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAVID ARKY • SEPTEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

07/08/2013 11:22

Santa Monica Inexpensive, hard-to-break and free of frills, the fixed-gear cycle—or fixie—has become the ride of choice for the bicycle purist who prefers minimal components as well as a minimalist syle. Still, there are two enterprising USC grads who felt fixies could use a li le more in the way of vivid colors, so they started Santa Monica–based Solé, which boasts such offerings as this Foamside, which might well match your sur oard. It can also come with a flip flop hub, for those who prefer single speed. $379 / solebicycles.com

San Francisco There’s something a li le masochistic about riding a fixed-gear bicycle in San Francisco, which might be why the folks at Mission Bicycle raised almost $67,000 from a Kickstarter campaign to launch the Sutro, their first-ever bike with an 8-speed internal hub. Their latest finish—raw steel with a clear gloss on top—adds a dose of S.F.’s industrial-chic to the bike’s high-tech body. $1,485 / missionbicycle.com

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • SEPTEMBER 2013

p042-043_HEM0913_Goods.indd 43

07/08/2013 11:22

wear in ... Berlin

Daniel Werner When it comes to fashion, Berlin has become shorthand for en vogue. So to ﬁnd out how to properly dress when visiting the German capital, we talked to Daniel Werner, the celebrated manager of East Berlin’s 14oz, one of the most well-curated clothing stores on the planet. INTERVIEW BY BOYD FARROW PHOTOGRAPH BY ZOE NOBLE

What should visitors wear to blend in?

Do you consider Berlin a great shopping city?

Berlin may technically be one city now but the diﬀerence between east and west is unbelievable. If you want to look like you belong in East Berlin, stick to black and gray: sleeveless T-shirts, skinny jeans, Ray-Bans and beanie hats and co on tote bags. You can’t go wrong with that. Oh, and you need to have lots of artistic ta oos, all down your arms. It is the signiﬁer that you belong. In West Berlin, it is much more conservative, much preppier, all bu on-down shirts, chinos and pullover sweaters, brighter colors. When I come out of the train station on Kurfürstendamm to visit our second store, a three-stop journey from our store on Neue Schönhauser, it’s like arriving in another country. I honestly do a double-take.

Actually, a lot of people are now coming to Berlin just to shop, because a lot of international designers have moved here. But for the people who live here, buying clothes is not such a big deal like it is in New York, London or Paris. There are a lot of cool boutiques in the Mi e, but their opening times are erratic because the owners are more interested in partying than making money. It is a great city for wearing clothes though—no one judges you here by what you wear. There are few dress codes in bars like in other cities. You can mix everything up and no one will care.

Berliners seem to really love vintage. Well, because all Berliners have grown up learning about sustainability, there is a huge appreciation of quality items that have lasted a long time or are expected to last. Vintage is big here. Heritage brands are very fashionable, American heritage brands particularly, and anything made in Japan.

R1_p044_HEM0913_Wear_In.indd 44

So talk us through what you’re wearing now. Today it’s a total mix-up. I’m wearing Bu ero sneakers, made in Italy, Denham Upgrade jeans, a Dukes belt, a T-shirt by Levi’s “1930s Collection” under a co on jacket by Deus Ex Machina, vintage handkerchief and Stetson hat. The handkerchief is from Berlin and made by a friend whose brand is called 14/03. He invented this round two-sided pocket square.

SEPTEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

09/08/2013 10:11

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STAY

THIS MONTH’S HOTTEST HOTELS

AMANGIRI RESORT CANYON POINT, UTAH

WHAT YOU’LL FIND JUST OUTSIDE: Set on 600 acres of private canyonland between the Vermilion Cliﬀs and Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monuments, the property comprises a range of easy to moderate hiking trails and a 7,000-year-old archaeological site. The resort can arrange custom trips to the Grand Canyon, Monument Valley or any of the other adjacent national parks.

ROOM WITH A VIEW: Each of the resort’s 34 suites features 14-foot-high concertina doors that open onto a private terrace with a fireplace and daybeds and a vista as wide open and iconic as a frame from a John Ford Western. The resort is laid out like a modernist’s interpretation of an ancient Anasazi village, with polished slab floors and thick concrete bulwarks tinted to match the surrounding cliffs.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • SEPTEMBER 2013

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HOT DISH: The menu at the hotel’s Dining Room restaurant is shot through with an inspired blend of Asian ﬂavors (a nod to Aman Resorts’ origins in Cambodia and Thailand), classic French technique and traditional Southwestern ingredients. A particular highlight is a local elk chop in pipian verde, served with corn and cotija mash and a carrot-ginger slaw of daikon and cucumber.

BEST PLACE TO HANG OUT: Suites radiate outward from the main pavilion to a fortress-like spa complex. But, with its turquoise waters curving around a prow of 150-million-year-old weathersculpted sandstone, the pool is the centerpiece of the property. Se le into a poolside chaise beneath a ﬂowering chitalpa tree and you may reconsider your goal to hit every national park in the Southwest.

07/08/2013 15:05

STAY

Makati Shangri-La MANILA, PHILIPPINES

WHAT YOU’LL FIND JUST OUTSIDE: The 16-city cosmopolis of Manila is home to two (soon to be three) Shangri-La hotels. You’ll ﬁnd the Makati hotel in the middle of Makati City, a prime shopping and dining district. It’s across the street from the destination mall known as Greenbelt and the Ayala Museum, which contains paintings by Philippine art stars Juan Luna, Fernando Amorsolo and Fernando Zobel, among quite a few other things. ROOM WITH A VIEW: There’s only one place in Manila that can lay claim to the largest hotel room in the city, and that’s the Makati Shangri-La. Its Presidential Suite comprises almost 3,400 square feet of chandeliers, couches and ornate furniture, with a kitchene e and a window-front bathtub. It also boasts an unparalleled Google Earth’s–eye view of Manila’s bewildering sprawl. BEST PLACE TO HANG OUT: A er avoiding mototaxis on Manila’s busy highways for a few hours, take a break at the Spa at the Shangri-La. The signature Hilot treatment combines massage and chiropractic manipulation—with a generous dollop of coconut oil—to thoroughly relax traﬃc-stressed muscles.

DESIGN NOTES: Originally the mansion of a San José family who earned their fortune making cookies, Grano de Oro (which means “grain of gold”) was expanded in 1994 and again in 2007 by the addition of two more mansions. Guests who don’t heed the bellhop’s offer to escort them to their rooms will likely end up lost in a garden of mango trees. Then again, there are worse fates. BEST PLACE TO HANG OUT: At the hotel’s restaurant, you’ll find a double-sided bar—one side a fan-cooled lounge whose tables glow under flickering gas lamps, the other a verdant courtyard dominated by a stone fountain. Either is a good place to order a Tico Sour, a Costa Rican spin on the pisco sour made with local sugarcane liquor known as guaro, lemon, egg white and nutmeg. HOT DISH: The primary reason for the hotel’s second expansion was to increase the space in the hotel restaurant—one of San José’s top spots on account of both the French-Costa Rican fusion cuisine and the alfresco seating. Try the Corvina Macadamia: sea bass coated in crushed macadamia nuts served in orange herb sauce. ROOM WITH A VIEW: Book the Vista de Oro Suite, lined with handmade tiles, and you can watch the bustle of San José— and the dreamy greenery of Costa Rica’s Central Valley behind it—from an in-room Jacuzzi.

p047-050_HEM0913_Stay.indd 48

GRANO DE ORO

SAN JOSÉ, COSTA RICA SEPTEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

07/08/2013 15:06

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28/02/2013 09:55

STAY

Abaco Club Homes on Winding Bay

CLAIM TO FAME: Designed by golf course architects ABACO, Tom MacKenzie and BAHAMAS Donald Steele, and built at enormous cost in 2004, the club’s renowned Sco ish-style course provides stunning views of the ocean. Bring lots of balls and pay a ention to the breezes, unless you’re just enjoying the scenery.

ROOM WITH A VIEW: Paradise Found, one of the rental co ages here, has a private plunge pool and fire pit perched on a cliff, which offers a wonderful view of Winding Bay. Conch Villa has a small deck on the cliff ’s edge, the perfect place to spend an hour or six doing nothing but gazing. AMAZING AMENITIES: Upon arrival, you’ll find the concierge service has already stocked your kitchen with the food and drink of your choice and arranged your tee times, along with dinner reservations, spa appointments and any other activities that take your fancy.

LONDON

BULGARI BACKSTORY: Having already graced Bali and Milan with its hospitality (another property is slated for Shanghai in 2015), Bulgari opened this 85-room hotel in London’s Knightsbridge last year, signiﬁcantly depleting the world’s supplies of Zimbabwean black marble. In fact, a rut has formed in the sidewalk between the lobby and Harrods.

WHAT YOU’LL FIND JUST OUTSIDE: The nearby village of Cherokee Sound offers picturesque early-American architecture, boat-building history and highly skilled bonefishing guides. At Li le Harbor, Pete’s Pub hosts spirited Sunday pig roasts in a Robinson Crusoe se ing. Offshore is a shallow barrier reef, where guests can snorkel among spectacular coral gardens, home to spo ed eagle rays, sea turtles and schools of fish almost too colorful to be true.

WHAT YOU’LL FIND JUST OUTSIDE: Well, Harrods, along with a slew of other retailers not for the weak of wallet, is down the road. Chic Sloane Square and the hip King’s Road lie to the south, raunchier Portobello Road to the northwest. Hyde Park is nearby, if a stroll is in order, and, for the culturally inclined, the Royal Albert Hall is down the road for movies, tennis or the circus. DESIGN NOTES: Black and silver motifs appear throughout the hotel, echoing the familiar Bulgari aesthetic, along with expanses of much-polished mahogany, green onyx, Italian glass and bespoke furniture. While ﬂourishes are kept to a minimum, the carpets in the rooms have a bouncy-castle plushness to them and the padded corridor walls are so er than many beds. HOT DISH: Given its sleek, Bulgari-esque décor, Il Ristorante is a surprise. The food is rustic and unpretentious—the paccheri pasta with meltingly tender ox cheek and Pecorino Romano is like something an overachieving nonna might conjure up. The staﬀ, too, is wonderfully unfussy. “We want to feed people,” says one waiter, “not impress them.”

p047-050_HEM0913_Stay.indd 50

SEPTEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

07/08/2013 15:06

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05/08/2013 14:42

AUTO-TATION MASERATI / MONACO

Starting price: $105,000

THE ITALIAN JOB Driving from Turin to Monaco through the Italian Alps? Here are eight reasons to take the new Maserati Qua roporte BY JAMES WILLIAMS

INTERIOR A limo-like interior with lumbar-adjusted leather front seats will have you in a Zen-like state as you glide down the Autostrade. The rear seats are also heated to keep pampered posteriors warm in mild Italian winters, and there’s more legroom than in a private box at La Scala.

GLOVE BOX Your route from Turin to Monaco, via Piedmont’s quaint village of Cuneo, requires a cool head. Fortunately, not only is the climate control so er than a unicorn’s mane, there’s a separate control to chill the glove box, which is roomy enough for a couple of icy Cokes and a box of mints.

p052_HEM0913_RoadTrip_v6.indd 52

DASHBOARD

TIRES

With an 8.4-inch center-panel touch-screen displaying your tunes, a/c, Garmin satellite navigation system and rear-mounted parking camera, this dashboard is worthy of 007. Dash dials are in analog and digital, and presets remember your exact seat, wheel and pedal conﬁgurations.

ENGINE

They could have gone for run-ﬂats but the Qua roporte is all about the drive. Chunky Pirellis sit on 20-inch alloys, perfect for taking curvy mountain passes at 50 mph without losing your rigatoni. Keep one eye on the asphalt, and the other on the Italian alpine pastures rolling by.

TRUNK

The twin turbo-charged 3.8-liter V6 Ferrari engine has delicate lag and direct injection. Press “sport” to unleash the beast. Going from zero to 60 in 4.6 seconds, with a top speed of 177 mph, it’s fast and quiet enough to evade the paparazzi camped outside of the Casino de Monte Carlo.

Clean contours make for a well-deﬁned rear end, perfect for an elegant cruise past the Prince’s Palace, the Opéra de Monte Carlo or the Hotel Hermitage. The 530-liter trunk is big enough for four suitcases, but your kids’ bikes will have to travel with the motorcade.

EXHAUST PIPES Pick any long, snaky alpine tunnel, roll the windows down and listen to that low crackle. It starts like a WWII bomber thundering low over the Mediterranean but crescendos swi ly to an intense, throaty, high-pitched roar, via a raucous choir of four epic exhaust pipes.

TRANSMISSION Use your manual transmission paddle shi ers for Monaco’s Grand Prix street circuit, then choose from another four modes for the rest of the drive. The I.C.E. mode can get up to 33 mpg. We averaged 21 mpg on a 21-gallon tank, but then we weren’t taking it easy!

ILLUSTRATION BY BRETT AFFRUNTI • SEPTEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

07/08/2013 15:06

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COTTON BAY VILLAGE A LUXURY VILLA BEACH RESORT IN ST. LUCIA Cotton Bay Village a boutique beachfront resort in St Lucia offers the luxury of private villa residences for vacation on the exclusive tranquil Cotton Bay beach. Getaway to your very own villa nestled between a mile of unspoilt Cotton Bay Beach and Cap Estate Golf course. Enjoy a secluded beach for kite surﬁng, kayaking, horseback riding next to a spectacular golf course. Relax at the main Lagoon Pool with the kids, and rejuvenate at our award winning Casuarina Spa, while the kids enjoy the Humming Bird Kids Club. Choose your dining options from the Beach Club Restaurant, Piano Piano Fine Dining, Bruschetta Deli or request a private chef in your villa. Escape to St. Lucia to create your next vacation experience with families and friends at Cotton Bay Village. The perfect villa resort in St Lucia.

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culture || TRAVEL ESSAY

WI-FLY You may now turn on your electronic devices, and perpetually be online BY DOUGLAS RUSHKOFF

If you’re like me, the only time you’re not tethered to the Internet is during that no man’s land between the airplane door closing and your flight reaching cruising altitude. You know what I mean: the only time when you’re not allowed to use your smartphone or laptop. It’s the single opportunity to unplug, look out the window, read this magazine or, heaven forbid, talk to the person seated next to you.

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With inflight Wi-Fi becoming the norm— on 200 United aircra by year’s end and fleet-wide in 2015—these moments when you have plausible deniability for being offline and out of touch are ge ing fewer and further between. For now, there are 15 or even 20 whole minutes during takeoff when you will be unreachable—and somehow, the world is going to have to survive without your instantaneous response. We are all suffering from what I have come to call “present shock”—the human response to living in a world where everything is supposed to happen now (full disclosure: it’s also the title of a book I

ILLUSTRATION BY MIGUEL MONTANER • SEPTEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

07/08/2013 15:07

THIS OBSESSION WITH OUR LITTLE SCREENS ACTUALLY YANKS US OUT OF THE PRESENT.

published earlier this year). It’s a real-time, always-on existence, without space to enjoy the underlying rhythms that used to inform our lives. I mean the simple stuff, like day and night, or the four seasons. Ironically, air travel was what woke us up to the fact that we live in time. Jet lag used to be considered folklore. There was no scientific justification for it. Then, Major League Baseball managers began to notice that pitchers won more games when traveling from east to west than west to east. How could that be? Humans do be er when their day/night cycle is expanded rather than contracted. The State Department eventually caught on, and began manipulating diplomatic schedules to give our negotiators an edge. Of course, most of our industrial age processes ride roughshod over such cycles. We struggle to be more efficient and profitable in our professional lives. Everything is supposed to go straight up. Even the money we use—debt-based central currency—has a built-in clock: it has to be paid back, in time, with interest. That’s how time became money, and how efficiency and growth became the underlying ethos of our age. Digital technology was supposed to change all this. Computers and networks were going to make more time for us all. Instead of commuting to work and punching a timeclock, by now we were supposed to be logging in from home, on our own schedules and in our pajamas. In the Internet’s early days, we took our time responding to an email. As a result, we sounded smarter online than in real life. But something happened along the road to techno utopia. Instead of choosing when we would log in and work, we ended up just staying logged on perpetually. Rather than turning our greater choice and efficiency into more time for ourselves, we turned human time into the new commodity. Our economy no longer had any more physical territory through which to grow; developing nations were no longer willing to be colonized, and the boundless frontiers that kept the industrial age accelerating for five or 10 centuries started to look pre y bounded, a er all.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • SEPTEMBER 2013

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The only place le to grow was on the landscape of human a ention. There were still moments when people were not buying or selling, consuming or producing. And those could be tapped. So instead of using our devices when we might want to, we ended up strapping our smartphones to ourselves. They alert us every time someone sends us a message, update or tweet. We end up in a state of perpetual emergency interruption that used to be endured only by 911 operators. We get “phantom vibration syndrome”—the sensation of a smartphone buzzing in our hip pocket when it’s not. This obsession with whatever’s happening on our li le screens actually yanks us out of the real present. All those messages are not something we keep up with; all those tweets and pings are actually trying to keep up with us. We keep misinterpreting our many incoming digital signals as the real-time alarms of the industrial age. That’s like responding to an incoming email message as if it were a ringing phone. It is not. It will wait. But if we continue to make this mistake, we will end up like those kids a ending rock concerts but watching the whole thing through their camera phones. They miss what’s actually going on. The beauty of the pervasive Internet—the ubiquity of Wi-Fi signals, even on an airplane crossing the ocean—is its availability. It’s there for you, waiting. It is always on—so you don’t have to be. Now that you’re at cruising altitude, I’ll leave you to your own devices. DOUGLAS RUSHKOFF is the author of

Present Shock: When Everything Happens Now and several tweets you should read when you can log back on.

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the fan

GOING FOR BROKE The Dodgers’ big-money push for marquee players might pay oﬀ, but it doesn’t always BY TIM MARCHMAN

WHEN A CONSORTIUM o f d e e p pocketed investors fronted by Magic Johnson bought the Los Angeles Dodgers for $2 billion last spring, L.A. fans felt their quarter-century drought of a World Series berth might ﬁnally come to an end. The team’s new owners went on a spending spree, snatching up every available bold-faced name on the market. As team

president Stan Kasten told me earlier this year by way of explanation, “Ownership wanted to turn the dial all the way to the right.” I half expected him to pull out a guitar ampliﬁer that went to 11. If he’d had one on hand, it would have made for a ﬁ ing symbol of what seemed to be the team’s new philosophy, which might reasonably be termed “celebrity baseball.”

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • SEPTEMBER 2013 • ILLUSTRATION BY MARTIN O’NEILL

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09/08/2013 10:12

PUIG TIME The Dodgers phenom is making a name for himself, despite the veteran stars who delayed his debut

endured a prolonged slump. Or even the New York Yankees of a decade ago, who got a li le bit worse every time they brought on some new great like Randy Johnson. The problem with all of these teams, and others like them, is obvious. There are exceptions—and by mid-summer, the Dodgers were deﬁnitely looking like one of those exceptions—but if a celebrity player is on the market, that’s generally because

something’s wrong with him. He may be past his prime, or making too much money, or a huge pain, or all of these and more. Bringing together several such players is o en just a way of ensuring that you end up with damaged goods. But even assuming the Dodgers do well for now—which is, more and more, looking to be the case—there’s potential for future misery for teams employing

GETTY

But well into the month of June, it looked bleak for the star-studded Dodgers as the team floundered with a losing record. Of their new glitzy recruits, Hanley Ramirez, Carl Crawford and Zack Greinke had spent considerable time on the disabled list. Josh Becke was headed for season-ending surgery, and slugger Adrian Gonzalez was OK at best. Then Ramirez and Greinke came back from injury and re-found their former greatness, Gonzalez became more consistent with his power stroke and the team entered the All Star break in a ba le for ﬁrst place of the National League West. By the end of July, Crawford was back to form, too. The team owners’ strategy of throwing wads of cash at marquee players and telling them to have at it might still pay oﬀ, but history shows it o en doesn’t. Think of the L.A. Lakers of the late 1960s, who somehow contrived not to win a championship despite having mega-names like Wilt Chamberlain, Jerry West and Elgin Baylor on their roster. Or the Galácticos, the famed Real Madrid team of the early 2000s that added David Beckham to such stars as Zinedine Zidane and Ronaldo and, almost immediately after Beckham’s arrival,

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THE FAN || culture

In baseball, with its vast array of esoteric and ever more precise statistics, who you are is supposed to ma er much less than what you do. this strategy, particularly as star players begin that inevitable decline yet remain too expensive to bench. But the Dodgers are hardly the prime oﬀenders. For the last decade, there has been the maddening sight of the Yankees amassing an annual payroll in excess of $200 million with only one World Series ring to show for it, while there are clever teams doing well with the amount of money the Bronx Bombers have had si ing on the disabled list for much of the 2013 season. The Tampa Bay Rays win 90 games every year while running one of the lowest payrolls in MLB. Give them, or the Oakland A’s, $200 million a year to spend, and you’d get a great team that stayed great. At the very least, they wouldn’t pay champagne money for a superstar past his prime. Worse than that, though, is that proﬂigate teams like the Yankees undermine the

basic point of fandom. It isn’t about idle wealth or a tenuous relationship between money and sense, really; it’s about meritocracy, along with old-fashioned notions like loyalty and collective identity. In sports, and especially in baseball, with its vast array of esoteric and ever more precise statistics, who you are is supposed to ma er much less than what you do. While the success of teams like the Rays or the A’s is often credited to their use of advanced math or their inspired experimentation, what it’s really about is their willingness to ignore reputations and focus on how players perform on the ﬁeld. The concern with turning the dial all the way to the right is perfectly summed up in Yasiel Puig, the 22-year-old Cuban phenom who didn’t make his debut for the Dodgers until June 3, well into what was then starting to look like a losing season for the club.

In spring training, it couldn’t have been more obvious that he was, at worst, the team’s second-best outfielder. He hit .517, caught everything hit anywhere near him and ran the bases like a bull. The issue was that he was an outfielder, and the team already had about $400 million worth of those—all of whom were too famous and too well paid to sit. Eventually, two of the Dodgers’ celebrity outfielders got hurt, and Puig got a chance. He hit .456 his first month in the majors, cracked home runs off pitches he shouldn’t have been able to reach and scored from second on infield hits. In addition to big names to cheer for, the Dodgers had one of the most exciting new players in baseball. Actual baseball, it turns out, is so good and strong that it will break out even in the midst of a billion-dollar marketing campaign. There’s a level on which the Dodgers know that; if they start to act like it they might field the best team their town has seen in a long, long time.

TIM MARCHMAN is deputy editor of Deadspin. He’s remained a New York Mets fan his entire life, despite their best efforts to repel him.

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CARRYING THE INTERNET IN BALLOONS While the international popularity of K-pop and Russian dashboard cam videos might make it seem like everyone on Earth has access to the Internet, the world’s most useful series of tubes has yet to carry Twi er and Netflix to two-thirds of human beings. Many folks in places like rural Africa and South America have too li le bandwidth to use remote learning programs, talk to far-off doctors, check the weather or simply use Google. In what is perhaps a self-serving endeavor, Google X, the same lab behind Google Glass and those wacky driverless cars, aims to change that. Project Loon, trials for which (literally) launched in June from New Zealand’s South Island, will offer Internet to the entire world via radio-carrying balloons that float in the stratosphere. Here’s how they’ll do it. BY JACQUELINE DETWILER 1 The 39-by-49-foot balloons are made of a special polyethylene plastic that can withstand internal pressure better than even weather balloons. A center section contains helium while an outer layer can take in or release pure air—using energy from an attached solar panel—so that the balloons are able to move up and down in the stratosphere.

2 Keeping the balloons in one place is energy inefficient, not to mention expensive. Instead, Google engineers will take advantage of the stratosphere’s natural layers of wind streams to ﬂoat them around the Earth at about ﬁve to 20 miles per hour. Raising or lowering the balloons moves them into wind streams that travel in different directions.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • SEPTEMBER 2013 • ILLUSTRATION BY JAMES PROVOST

p061_HEM0813_BrightIdeas.indd 61

3 Using radio frequency antennae, the balloons will connect with each other, a local Internet ground station and specialized connections on homes and offices. Each balloon can provide about 25 miles of coverage at speeds comparable to 3G. Google engineers will use advanced algorithms to keep them at an ideal spacing to ensure maximum coverage.

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INDUSTRY

FOUND IN TRANSLATION IN LATIN AMERICA, ENTERPRISING FEMALE LANGUAGE TEACHERS ARE USING SKYPE TO TAP INTO THE GLOBAL MARKETPLACE—AND THE STUDENTS UP NORTH LOVE IT BY MARA GAY

AT 10 YEARS OLD, the internet company that lets users video chat for free has found its most devoted following among homesick families and friends living abroad. But now, Skype is also lending a huge hand to independent entrepreneurs across the so-called Global South, in developing countries where wages are low and job opportunities are scarce—doubly so for women. In places like Guatemala and Mexico, enterprising women are using the technology not just to bypass job markets plagued by chauvinism, but

also to launch small businesses in which they teach Spanish language skills to students in the United States and Europe. Olga Pacajá, a 34-year-old Spanish teacher from Antigua, Guatemala, who has been using Skype to connect with students in the United States, is one such example. “In Guatemala there are a lot of workers, many of whom are women. There are many female teachers, and they are being exploited,” says Pacajá. “The pay is terrible and there’s o en no pay in the summers at all. For me, Skype has opened up a whole other world.”

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • SEPTEMBER 2013 • ILLUSTRATION BY HARRY CAMPBELL

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09/08/2013 11:34

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Pacajá, who charges about $12 an hour and teaches roughly 50 hours a week, says she quickly found the Skype lessons to be more proﬁtable and more fun than teaching in person at a local school in Guatemala, a country where the minimum wage is $9 a day. “This has become my primary source of income, and I do very, very well,” she says. Ray Blakney, an American who launched Skype-based Live Lingua about four years ago with his Mexican-born wife, Laura Ramirez Blakney, pays his teachers in Mexico about $7.50 an hour—a huge sum in a country where many workers earn as li le as $5 a day, and women o en far less. At that wage, Blakney says he’s had no trouble recruiting teachers from across South America and elsewhere. He says the vast majority of his teachers are ambitious women who want to work but need to be able to work from home. “A lot of them have young children,” Blakney says. “We give these mothers an option to be at home with their kids and keep working at the same time.” And for native English speakers looking to learn a second language on a tight budget, the lessons are an a ractive option. On Skype, English speakers can take private Spanish, Mandarin or French classes for about $10 to $15 an hour—a fraction of the cost of a private language lesson in the United States, which can run students as much as $100 an hour. “For 10 or 11 bucks an hour, it’s like a

“In Guatemala, female teachers are exploited.... For me, Skype has opened a whole new world.” freebie,” says Michael Chernoﬀ, a retired fundraiser who lives in Amherst, Massachuse s, and takes lessons through Live Lingua. “Over the years, my Spanish has gotten pretty good. I keep telling them, I would happily pay much more.” Gene Grossman, the chair of the economics department at Princeton University, feels the success of entrepreneurs like Pacajá shows that globalization has a bright side. “Global sourcing has just become possible where it wasn’t before,” he says. “For the average Guatemalan or Mexican woman, this is a real win.” In addition to being drawn by affordable rates, Spanish language students in America are also attracted to the idea of immersing themselves, albeit virtually, in a Spanishspeaking country. “I know it’s not as good as being able to be in the country, necessarily, but it’s the next best thing,” says Jeﬀ Squires, who along with his 10-year-old son, Ethan, takes a Spanish lesson via Skype once a week. “We don’t just do a lesson, we really get to know each other,” Squires says of

Love at First Site

COUPLES WHO MEET ONLINE STAY HOOKED FOR LONGER

ometime between the advent of Facebook and the Harlem Shake, internet dating went from a thing people made fun of to a thing that everybody was doing. And it’s really almost everybody. More nth’s o than a third of all marriages are the result of online m s i th meetings, according to a new study of nearly 20,000 Americans published in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences. And the joke’s on those who think the practice is lame: University of Chicago researcher John Cacioppo and his team found that people who met online were happier with their spouses and more likely to stay together over the course of seven years than those who met in “real” life. Both of these effects persisted even when the scientists controlled for age, education, income and religious affiliation, among other factors. Results may not apply if your proﬁle still references the Harlem Shake. —JACQUELINE DETWILER

ING AMAZCT FA

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his Spanish teacher, who lives in Mexico. “We talk about our kids and about current events, not just here but also in Mexico.” Gordon McCord, the director of economic policy at the Center on Globalization and Sustainable Development at Columbia University, sees Skype as the ultimate equalizer for women in the Global South, who are successfully marketing their skills in wealthier countries at a fair price. “Skype has completely changed the game for these women,” says McCord. “They can be independent and start their own businesses with very li le startup cost. “In most developing countries women suﬀer from inequality and one of the great ways of solving this problem is having women command a wage,” McCord continues. “And any phenomenon that helps women more than men is sure to be great for society. Often things change for the be er when women work.” For her part, Pacajá is hoping to start a Guatemala-based language company that will teach Spanish over Skype and offer beneﬁts unheard of for most workers in the country. “I want to own my own company and provide good jobs with health insurance, something we need very much in Guatemala, particularly for women,” she says. “And now it feels very possible.”

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GIVE IT TO ME STRAIGHT HOW ALAN ALDA, NEIGHBORHOOD BARS AND MIME FIT INTO AN ONGOING CAMPAIGN TO GET SCIENTISTS TO TELL IT LIKE IT IS BY JON MARCUS

“I’ve bee been using Dioscoreales as a mo odel de l sy model system,” says the botanist at th e fro fr ont of the room, describing her the front ork rk iin ne wo work exploring the diversity of leaf for rms, ms “because “be forms, Dioscoreales are vining mo onoc nocots as you probably know.” Judgmonocots, ing g by the t looks on their faces, the people in the audience au probably don’t know thi this—wh s—wh this—which is pre y much the point of this exerc exer exercise. The challenge for this

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scientist is to make her diverse leaf forms easier to digest. The se ing is a workshop at the State University of New York at Stony Brook called Improvisation for Scientists. The aim is to ﬁnd ways to make science more accessible to the masses. Alan Alda, for whom the University’s Alan Alda Center for Communicating Science is named, is emceeing.

ILLUSTRATION BY SÉBASTIEN THIBAULT • SEPTEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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Alda, a frequent host of scientific television shows, has long been at the forefront of a campaign to encourage the use of plain English in the sciences. “If scientists can’t communicate clearly,” he says after the workshop, “the rest of us lose out on the beauty of science, the intrigue, the great detective story it is, the poetry of it.” For all his zeal, Alda is not entirely without sympathy for the targets of his crusade. “We shouldn’t be too rough on scientists,” he says. “I could give you a string of showbusiness jargon you wouldn’t understand either. If you’re talking to somebody who understands the lingo, and you have one word that can stand in for five pages of words, why wouldn’t you use it? But you have to be aware of whether people are ge ing it or not.” This has become a hot topic in the scientific community, mostly because, quite clearly, a lot of people aren’t getting it. A study by the National Science Foundation found that only half of American adults surveyed understood that the Earth orbits the Sun once a year, and fewer than one in 10 could define a molecule. In an age when science and technology play an increasingly central role in everyday life, that kind of ignorance has troubling ramifications. Beyond being incomprehensible, say some critics, giga-syllabic scientists come across as elitist. Jargon, says Elizabeth Bass, a science journalist who now runs the Alan Alda Center, “can be worse than silence. It sends a message of ‘I don’t care if you don’t understand.’” Alex Mayer, a professor at Michigan Technological University, argues that there’s an element of self-interest in the plain-English campaign. “We need the public on our side,” he says. “They write the checks, they pay the taxes and they elect the people who make the decisions.” With SEPTEMBER CROSSWORD ANSWERS

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“Scientists have to be aware of whether people are ge ing it or not,” Alan Alda says. the aid of a National Science Foundation grant, Mayer trains graduate students to communicate by sending them to teach in middle schools. But it’s not only Jane and Joe Schmo who are alienated by science-speak. In spite of the old joke that IT guys inflate their salaries by deliberately using arcane terminology—thereby making themselves indispensable—there’s actually a growing demand among employers for technical staff who can communicate clearly. The Keepers of the Knowledge, as it were, are being asked to share with the rest of us. Accordingly, engineering students at institutions like Syracuse University and Rensselaer Polytechnic Institute, both in New York, are required to master the art of the elevator pitch (describing their work in the time it takes to rise or descend a few floors). At Villanova University, in Pennsylvania, engineering students describe their research in front of discriminating panels of retirees and 12-year-olds. In 2010, Ireland’s Trinity College began sending its scientists to local pubs to explain their work to patrons in three minutes or less, an idea that has grown so popular it’s become a national competition held in a Dublin theater. Then there’s PHD Comics, a humor website for doctoral students, which runs a video competition in which contenders get two minutes to describe their doctoral theses. Alda would approve. “Our hope,” he says, “is that all science education will eventually include the study of communication skills, so that when we turn out a capable scientist we’ll also be turning out a capable communicator.” To this end, the event Alda is hosting today involves an exercise adopted from improvisational theater, in which scientists use an even more basic form of expression than simple language—namely, mime. “This is really hard,” says one participant, ﬂapping his arms in an a empt to convey something meaningful about his research. “It makes the whole science thing look really easy.” JON MARCUS, a Boston–based writer and

editor, is still grappling with Dioscoleares.

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1 IN 6 PEOPLE IN AMERICA STRUGGLES WITH HUNGER. THIS SEPTEMBER, JOIN FEEDING AMERICA, a nationwide network of food banks, for Hunger Action Month. You can help by donating United MileagePlus® award miles at united.com/FeedingAmerica. By donating your miles, you can help Feeding America in the fight against hunger. Visit HungerActionMonth.org for more ways to get involved. Together, We Can Solve Hunger.™

No.00000 Hunger America 1pp.indd 1

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F E AT UR E S 72

THE HEMI Q&A: MICHAEL KORS

MERGERS AND ACQUISITIONS

ON THE NUCLEAR TRAIL

THREE PERFECT DAYS: NASHVILLE

He's outﬁtted the ﬁrst lady and been a caustic critic on “Project Runway.” Now Kors has launched a beauty line

In this high-stakes fall fashion extravaganza set against the Manhattan skyline, three power players go for broke

Hemispheres takes you to the atomic sites of the American Southwest for some Cold War tourism

With transplants like Jack White and Nicole Kidman, Music City is about more than just country music

“WHETHER IT BE LAUGHTER OR TEARS, THE NIGHT GIVES YOU A GLIMPSE INTO THE BEATING HEART OF COUNTRY MUSIC, WHICH, IN TURN, REVEALS THE BEATING HEART OF MUSIC CITY.” THREE PERFECT DAYS: NASHVILLE ILLUSTRATION BY CHRISTINE BERRIE • SEPTEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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SEPTEMBER 2013

THE HEMI Q&A

Michael Kors Three decades a er his women’s wear debuted at Bergdorf Goodman, Michael Kors isn’t just a brand; he’s the head of a multibillion-dollar company, the go-to label for Michelle Obama and, when it comes to reality TV show judging, has a tongue that would make Simon Cowell blush. BY HILARY MOSS ILL ILLUSTRATION L UST LL USTRAT RAT AT ION O BY SA ON SAM AM K KERR ER ERR

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THE HEMI Q&A: MICHAEL KORS

IT’S FITTING THAT MICHAEL KORS would unveil his new eponymous beauty line in the Presidential Suite of the arty Surrey hotel on Manha an’s Upper East Side. The Long Island native presently sits atop the throne of the American fashion industry, with his clothes sought a er by ﬁrst ladies, ﬁlm stars and working women alike. At an energetic 54 yea r s o l d , Ko r s already has a lifetime achievement award from the Council of Fa s h io n D e s i g n e r s of America and a company worth more than $12 billion. Michelle Obama regularly wears his creations (including in her official White House portrait). He’s even achieved broader celebrity as a judge on the hit TV show “Project Runway,” thanks in large part to his notoriously snappy critiques. (“It looks like something a Teletubby would wear to a party.”) Earlier this summer at the Surrey, as a coterie of New York beauty editors spritzed, bronzed and glossed themselves with products from Kors’ new line, the designer ducked into a neighboring room for a lively chat with Hemispheres. KORS’ LIGHT Clockwise from top left, Michael Kors and his mom, Joan Hamburger Kors; judges in the front row of “Project Runway”; the sportswear collection from 1990

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MICHAEL KORS BY THE NUMBERS Year his designs ﬁrst appeared in Vogue

1980 Year of the debut runway show for his eponymous line

1984 Seasons as a “Project Runway” judge on both Bravo and Lifetime

10 Name-drops in rap music, including in a song by Nicki Minaj and Big Sean

16 Cameos on shows other than “Project Runway,” including “Gossip Girl”

16 HEMISPHERES: Your brand is resonating

MARIO RUIZ (KORS WITH MODELS); REX FEATURES (KORS WITH MOM)

right now like it never has before—not just on the coasts but in middle America, too. Why do you think that is? MICHAEL KORS: I grew up with women who wanted it all and they wanted the men in their lives to say, “You look amazing.” And at the same time, they were not willing to give anything up. I’m about strength, power and a lot of glamour. Initially it was a very New York thing, but now you could live in Ames, Iowa, and life is fast. HEMISPHERES: You mention the women

you grew up with. I assume you’re talking about your mother and grandmother. How did these women help you develop your understanding of makeup? KORS: They each were very, very speciﬁc with their beauty ideas. My mother— her makeup regimen was 10 minutes and she was out the door. HEMISPHERES: But she was a model,

wasn’t she?

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KORS: Yes, and they would pile the makeup on. So in real life, the last thing she wanted to do was that. I don’t think she’s ever worn foundation other than while modeling, so for her, it was a great bronzer, a li le bit of mascara, lip color, nail polish and ready to run. My grandmother, on the other hand, packed train-cases full of false eyelashes and eyeliner. She would switch up her lipsticks. She always went for it. She traveled with wig boxes and enjoyed the whole process of dress-up. And my aunt was full-on, unabashedly sexy. The minute that a crazy new thing would happen, she would try it, whether it was a dark lip or fake lower lashes. HEMISPHERES: As a child, did you pay

attention to their beauty rituals? KORS: I loved watching the process. When we’re ge ing ready for a fashion show now, and we do a hair and makeup test, it takes me back to childhood, si ing and watching my mother get her hair done when she had a special event. Actually, I was always pushing her to be

Times his clothes have been worn by a ﬁrst lady in an oﬃcial White House portrait

1 Age when he opened up his ﬁrst shop, called Iron Bu erﬂy, in the basement of his parents’ Long Island home

11 more outlandish. I was a pre y trendy kid, I guess. HEMISPHERES: How about your own

grooming routine? I heard you took a, shall we say, serious liking to Halston Z-14 cologne when you were younger. KORS: I did, I did. At 15, I did not have a light hand with cologne and that’s a nice way to put it. My mother used to say, “What? Oh my god! Just spray a li le on! You’re dousing yourself!” But coming of age in the late ’70s, there was this decadent a itude that permeated through fashion and into the beauty world and I was truly ready to go full-tilt. Today, CONTINUED ON PAGE 108 »

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WITH MANHATTAN HOSTING FASHION WEEK THIS MONTH, H E M I SP H E R E S E X P LO R ES THE CINEM ATIC INTER SECTION O F H IG H FASHION A ND HIGH FINA NCE

TOMO BREJC & DIRECTION BY NINO BAUTI

PHOTOGRAPHS BY STYLING

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MORNING COMMUTE Shaina: Todd Lynn gray suit; Donna Karan white shirt; Maison Martin Margiela black wool oversized coat; Alexandra DeClaris black envy-lope clutch Emma: Diane von Furstenberg pattern silk dress; Viktor & Rolf black blazer; CH Carolina Herrera broach; Saint Laurent black bag available at net-aporter.com; Hermès black leather gloves

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ABOVE & LEFT

CASH CAB Emma: Todd Lynn black sheepskin jacket; Diane von Furstenberg jersey dress; Aspinal of London long black leather gloves; Kara Ross gold, green and blue jewel drop earrings Matt: Gucci black suit; Donna Karan white shirt; Maîtres du Temps Chapter Two 18k rose gold black dial watch; Turnbull & Asser navy blue and white dot tie available at mrporter.com

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OFFICE POLITICS Emma: Gucci black lace and velvet dress; Judith Leiber black crocodile skin clutch; Kara Ross gold, green and blue jewel drop earrings; Sermoneta black satin gloves Matt: Kent & Curwen gray and green windowpane davenport wool suit; J. Lindeberg gray tie; Krisvanassche white and gray pinstripe shirt; Michael Kors tortoiseshell framed glasses

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FROM TOP

Matt: Gucci black suit; Donna Karan white shirt; Maîtres du Temps Chapter Two 18k rose gold black dial watch; Turnbull & Asser navy blue and white dot tie available at mrporter.com

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BETWEEN A ROCK AND A HARD PLACE Matt: BLK DNM double-breasted wool coat; Dior white shirt; Dolce & Gabbana pattern tie available at mrporter.com; Ermenegildo Zegna black wool with gray pinstripe trousers; J. Lindeberg black weekend leather shopper; Michael Kors aviators Shaina: Maison Martin Margiela black wool oversized coat and double-breasted burgundy cotton dress; Karl black wide-leg tailored trousers; Bottega Veneta black clutch with gold detail; Calvin Klein aviators; John Varvatos black ﬁngerless gloves

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LEFT

UP AGAINST A WALL Emma: Etro purple cut-out maxi dress; Sermoneta black satin gloves; Vaubel Designs gold hoop clip earrings ABOVE & RIGHT RAINMAKER Emma: Chanel white and black velvet tuxedo dress; Aspinal of London white leather gloves Matt: Just Cavalli black tuxedo suit; Paul Smith black silk bow tie; Lanvin white tuxedo shirt Shaina: Roberto Cavalli tuxedo with embellished beaded lapels; BLK DNM white T-shirt

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM â&#x20AC;¢ SEPTEMBER 2013

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ABOVE

BRONZE AGE Emma: Roland Mouret golden jumpsuit for net-a-porter.com; Alexandra DeClaris black stingray long box clutch; Vaubel silver triangle earrings and silver cuff available at manguette.com; Kara Ross oversized ring RIGHT

MIRROR IMAGE Shaina: Viktor & Rolf gray pattern suit; Etro cream silk top; Maison Martin Margiela black wool oversized coat; Manolo Blahnik black brogues; Paul Smith black skinny belt; Jigsaw black leather gloves Matt: Paul Smith gray suit TEAM CREDITS

Hairstylist: Elsa Canedo using Oribe Hair Care for ShulyNY Make-Up Artist: Ayinde Castro for Stila Cosmetics Photographer’s Assistant: Marek Berry Fashion Assistants: Despo Evangelou & Rosario Rodriguez MODELS

Emma Hansen / Elite Models Matt Lombardo / Wilhelmina Shaina Danziger / Proﬁle Model Management SPECIAL THANKS TO

The Mandarin Oriental, New York Paramount Hotel, New York Alpine Limousine Service, alpinelimonyc.com

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ON THE

NUCLEAR TRAIL David Sirota visits the atomic sites of the American Southwest for an inside look at a booming—and potentially radioactive—new travel industry PHOTOGRAPHS BY BRYON DARBY ON A SWATH OF SUN-BAKED Arizona desert on the southern edge of Tucson, a diverse group of curious Cold War obsessives—myself included—is suﬀering a 105-degree Monday morning as we queue up to board a bus that will take us back in time. Among the scrum are a camera-wielding British couple dressed like they’re on safari, a group of Russians sporting thick coﬀeehouse beards, a pair of Korean War vets wearing matching American Legion caps and me. I’ve made the trek to the American Southwest’s “Nuclear Trail” out of a sense of nostalgia for the uneasy times of my childhood.

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ROCKET MAN Chuck Penson, the official archivist and historian at the Titan Missile Museum, stands on a platform overlooking the Titan II intercontinental ballistic missile

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As the bus takes us to the Davis-Mon- published a critical nonfiction hit titled, of other aviation-related activity because there’s very li le rain and humidity and than Air Force Base, which holds some of A Nuclear Family Vacation. the most powerful weaponry in human As the bus makes its way to Pima, so there’s less erosion of the equipment,” Ratledge says in his North Carolina twang, history, we are required to show identifi- Ratledge addresses the tour with a cation and to sign a form acknowledging microphone. Burly and avuncular with quickly dismissing conspiracy theories that that we may undergo additional security gold-rimmed aviator sunglasses, he the Southwest’s connection to the military screening. I’m standing behind a beefy, resembles Ernest Borgnine circa the mid- has to do with aliens landing at Roswell. “There’s also the caliche clay in the soil, heavily belt-buckled man in his 60s from ’80s TV adventure drama “Airwolf”—an which means the heavy aircra don’t end Buffalo, New York. He was a U.S. Air Force appropriate reference considering we’re pilot stationed in West Berlin from 1969 in close proximity to much of the world’s up sinking into the ground.” Once through the to ’71, so it’s more than checkpoint, the bus rolls appropriate to call him onto 2,600 acres of scrub a Cold War veteran. As brush lined with some he leans on his cane, he 4,000 planes. Against reminisces about his tour these hulking fuselages of duty with our guide, covered with heat-resistant Bob Ratledge, himself a polymer, the majestic 74-year-old former Air Rincon mountain range Force pilot. in the distance suddenly “They fired at us just looks tiny. to let us know they were “Over here is a full mile there, and we shot back for of C-130s,” Ratledge says, the same reason,” says the pointing to a long row of guy from Buffalo, recalling transport planes. “And his time flying American over there is the F-111, spies over the Berlin Wall. which President Reagan “Of course, we always had used to bomb Ghadafi in the nuclear stuff in the Libya.” This last bit spurs back of our minds,” he adds a 50-something behind with a chuckle. me to pull his iPhone out That “nuclear stuff ” is of his floral shirt’s breast why many of us are here. pocket and snap a picture. The Pima Air & Space “Remember where we Museum and its tour were when we heard that through the nearby Air news?” he whispers to his Force base are part of the wife. “Crazy that it was growing Atomic Tourism that long ago.” Rumbling industry, which—thanks past the pointy-nosed to t h e m o r e t h a n 2 0 F-14s and F-15s, a beefy years that have passed 50-something in an Army since the collapse of the T- s h i r t e a g e r ly a s k s Soviet Union and the Ratledge whether “these subsequent declassificaare the ones that can tion of inactive nuclear carry nukes?” Yes, our weapons—is booming. COLD WAR COMFORT guide says somberly, Add to that a sense that Top, The modest underground troop residence at Titan II Site 571-7; bottom, More these “can carry both we’re finally at a safe disthan 300 aircraft at Pima Air & Space Museum’s “Boneyard” conventional and atomic tance from the uneasy weapons,” his answer peace that the U.S. shared with the Soviets, and sites like Nevada’s military airpower. To the west is the Arizona prompting a multilingual murmur of National Atomic Testing Museum and Air National Guard, to the south of that is excitement through the cabin. Notably, Ratledge couches his descripNew Mexico’s National Museum of the defense contractor Raytheon Missile Nuclear Science & History have in recent Systems, and we’re currently coming up tion of all the firepower not in belligerent years reported 12 to 20 percent bumps on the checkpoint for Davis-Monthan— language, but in a more measured story of in weekend a endance. Pima itself sees home of the Aerospace Maintenance and potential wars successfully deterred. Once 150,000 visitors a year. Meanwhile, webRegeneration Group (AMARG), where off the base and back on civilian land, I ask sites like Atomic Traveler are a racting martial aircra are either refurbished or him about that, wondering what visitors tens of thousands of hits a month and, le idle in a place locals call “the Boneyard.” are supposed to take away from seeing all this lethal power up close. just two years ago, Bloomsbury USA “Tucson was selected for AMARG and lots

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READY TO LAUNCH Simulating a launch with one of the two neccesary keys

“Look, people get excited by the power of these planes and weapons, and it’s true, they can kill lots of people,” he says with a knowing sigh. “But there’s another side that we should all remember—their potential power kept us out of World War III. I think visitors here get to see that. They recognize that if we hadn’t had this power, who knows what would have happened?” Thankfully, direct combat with the Soviets played itself out more in the 1980s pop cultural arena than on the ba lefield. Following the incredibly intense hockey game between the U.S. and the Soviets at the 1980 Winter Olympics, Rocky Balboa squared off against Ivan Drago in Rocky IV and, in the WWF, Hulk Hogan regularly took Nikolai Volkoff to the mat. And let’s not forget the television movie “The Day A er,” which 30 years ago scared up some of the biggest Nielsen ratings in TV history. The Pima Air & Space Museum is certainly aware of the pop cultural context. Indeed, in its hangars, every plane that has appeared in a blockbuster film is displayed next to its corresponding movie poster.

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“We want to give visitors a frame of reference they can relate to,” says Mary Emich, Pima’s director of visitor services. “There’s no be er way to do that than through Hollywood.” On my own self-guided tour of the museum’s nearly 200,000 square feet, I come across a nuclear-capable F-14 Tomcat with its a endant poster of Top Gun, a UH-1 helicopter next to a poster of Apocalypse Now, and two 11-foot-high nuclear missile casings accompanying a shrine to the ﬁlm

“MOST PEOPLE COME HERE TO SEE WHAT COULD HAVE BEEN THE END OF THE WORLD.”

Dr. Strangelove. Strangelove, of course, was a reaction to the duck-and-cover hysteria that predictably followed 1963’s Cuban Missile Crisis. It was, in part, Hollywood’s way of satirizing such a potentially catastrophic non-event. The military had a much less cheeky reaction—one buried next to a lonely road 30 miles south of here, just before you hit the Mexican border. FROM THE SURFACE, the 3.5-acre plot officially called Titan II ICBM Site 571-7 doesn’t look like much. In fact, says a sandpaper-faced repairman and fellow atomic tourist named Butch, “It’s pre y easy to miss—hell, I’ve been driving by this place for years and didn’t even notice it, but I just decided today to pull oﬀ because I had to check it out.” Butch, like me, is one of the 55,000 people who will visit this place this year. I imagine everyone initially wonders what we are paying admission for. Up here, it just looks like a tiny post oﬃce–sized building, some sci-fi-esque antennas, a few concrete slabs and lots of tumbleweed. But then, the Titan Missile Museum is

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not about display cases and dioramas; it is about experiencing a once secret physical environment exactly as it existed during the Cold War. And so the deceptive camouﬂage that makes this preserved missile silo look unimpressive from the outside is actually part of its strategic design—one that becomes all the more stunning when you behold the giant rocket, command center and troop residence hidden beneath the surface. Unlike the museum and air base in Tucson, which leaves the aircraft’s destruct ive p o w e r to t h e imagination, the Titan museum in Sahuarita is explicit about the obliterating capacity of the 9-megaton, 103-foottall intercontinental ballistic missile that was housed here from a few months a er the Cuban Missile Crisis until the early 1980s. A 900-square-mile blast zone; third-degree burns 30 miles away from the detonation

site; a map of Tucson showing the “approximate area of complete destruction.” These are just some of the stats flashing on a monitor above the lobby’s 10-foot-tall black shell of a W-53 nuclear warhead—the same kind of ablative shell that sits atop the missile casing that is still housed here. “Most people come here to see what could have been the end of the world,” says the museum’s historian Chuck Penson when I ask him about why the lobby so openly advertises the apocalyptic implications of the missile. “The questions we typically get are: How big was the weapon? How much damage would it do? How close to a hit could you be and still survive?” Before Penson and another guide take me, Butch, a pair of bikers and a family of four below ground, we watch a short video explaining that this is the last of 54 such Air Force installations. From there, though,

all the usual trappings of a museum melt away as we don hard hats, descend metal stairs, stride through a 6,000-pound steel door and enter another world. In this submarine-like space, civilian clothing instantly seems absurd—the informality of Butch’s dirt-stained gray and yellow work uniform, the Harley guys’ biker boots and my sandals clash with the martial color of the place (that seafoam green common at military sites). Inside the low-ceilinged tunnel that connects the command center to the silo, we are entombed in 8-foot-thick steel-reinforced concrete. Yet everything—even the teenagers’ sneakers—seems to loudly clang through the exposed pipes and wiring because so much in here is made of metal. “See all these springs everywhere?” asks Penson. Pointing to an SUV-sized coil of steel in one corner and other smaller coils suspending equipment along the wall, he explains: “Everything which is launch critical is connected to a spring to ‘shock isolate’ it from a nuclear blast. That means this whole building is built on springs.” As if in an amusement park, one of the bikers grabs a pole and tries to shake the ﬂoor to see if he can make the spring flex, but Penson CONTINUED ON PAGE 110 »

LAST RESORT Deactivated in 1982, the launch control center at Titan II Site 571-7 sits empty 35 feet below ground; above, John Miller at Pima

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TEMPLE OF TWANG For country music purists, Robert’s Western World is the place to be

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THREE PERFECT DAYS: NASHVILLE The vibrant, eccentric, doggedly authentic capital of Tennessee is in the midst of a massive makeover; thankfully, the city’s many old-time charms remain very much intact BY JOE KEOHANE • PHOTOGRAPHS BY DAVID EUSTACE

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THREE PERFECT DAYS || NASHVILLE

GRAND DESIGNS The blindingly ornate lobby of Nashville’s Hermitage Hotel

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NASHVILLE || THREE PERFECT DAYS

SO PEE-WEE HERMAN AND JACK WHITE WALK INTO A WESTERN-WEAR store two doors down from Dolly Parton’s house.... This is not a joke. This is Nashville. The New Nashville, as some call it. But that’s not quite right, as it implies a disparagement of the old Nashville. Today’s Nashville isn’t a departure from the “Nash Vegas” of old. It’s still Music City, the unforgiving big-money capital of country music, a place where, as Marty Stuart has sung, “they sweep broken dreams oﬀ the street.” But it has diversiﬁed. And upgraded. The food scene is booming, the art scene is booming, the non-country music scene is booming. The buoyant economy, easy pace and quality of life have a racted newcomers from all over—including the likes of Jack White, Jack Black and Nicole Kidman. The city that once branded itself the “Athens of the South” has, in the last few years, laid a legitimate claim to the title. NASHVILLE BY THE NUMBERS POPULATION (METRO AREA)

1,589,934 RECORDING STUDIOS WITHIN A 25-MILE RADIUS

322 YEAR THE “GRAND OLE OPRY” RADIO SHOW MOVED OUT OF THE WSM STUDIOS AND INTO THE HILLSBORO THEATRE

1934 RECORD LABELS LISTED IN THE NASHVILLE YELLOW PAGES

66 TOP 10 AMERICAN HITS THAT CAME OUT OF NASHVILLE’S HISTORIC RCA STUDIO B

1,000+ NIGHTS AT THE NEW ERA CLUB IT TOOK TO RECORD 1964’s ETTA JAMES ROCKS THE HOUSE, THE FIRST LIVE ALBUM BY AN R&B SINGER

2 PRICE, IN DOLLARS, OF A BACON-INFUSED OLD-FASHIONED AT PATTERSON HOUSE

11 TIMES THE 5 SPOT HAS BEEN FEATURED ON “NASHVILLE”

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DAY ONE | It’s morning, and a distant owned by Jack White, former front man train whistle cuts across a quiet Nashville, of The White Stripes and recent Nashville which seems appropriate. You’re staying at transplant. Inside is a yellow and black the Hermitage, the city’s grand dame hotel, funhouse, stocked with records, a photo in a debilitatingly comfortable king suite. booth, stuffed animals and the “Mold-AThe tub is capacious. The table by the win- Rama,” a machine that, for three bucks, dow is arrayed with music magazines. This will make you a wax mold of White’s is not an easy room to leave. 19 64 Mo n tg o m e r y Wa rd After a couple of attempts, guitar. Your inner 5-year-old you achieve exit velocity and is persistent. You walk out DAY ONE head through the vaulted, with one. Shopping in The Gulch, visiting the stained-glass lobby and out Lunch is a few blocks away Country Music Hall into the city. at Arnold’s Country Kitchen, of Fame, jokes at the You stroll south along the an old-school meat-andBluebird Cafe Cumberland River and hapthree diner. The place is only pen upon Crema, an artisanal open for lunch on weekdays, coffee shop in the hipster which seems like a missed DAY TWO mold, with concrete floors, opportunity until a woman Communal dining at salvaged wood accents and Monell’s, remember- in line points out a problem beards aplenty. You order a they have here: “Sometimes ing Grand Ole Opry, “Coffee Soda” and a cream a prodigy at Robert’s the cash register is so full Western World cheese Danish, and, passing the drawer won’t close.” On three people holding guitar the advice of an inexplicably cases, take a seat by an open svelte regular, you get roast DAY THREE garage door overlooking beef, savory green beans, Oddball history in a yard. The coffee soda is cabbage and fried green tomaFive Points, meeting sweetened with demerara toes. It’s served cafeteria style, Dolly Parton’s tailor, syrup and carbonated. The truffles and Trappist so you pile up your tray and cider at Catfish Seat Danish is coffee-cake crumbly take a seat at one of the tables and decadent. Your plans for a jammed into the long, narrow light breakfast lie in ruins. space. Everything is delicious. Next, you head over to The Gulch, an Heading north, you walk for 10 minutes industrial zone rapidly transforming into to the Country Music Hall of Fame, where a cultural hub, with clubs, bars, a brew- you see Carl Perkins’ blue suede shoes, ery and shops with names like Two Old Jerry Lee Lewis’ black tuxedo shirt, Hank Hippies. On 7th Avenue, you find Third Williams’ guitar and the wristwatch Patsy Man Records, the recording studio/store Cline was wearing when she died. Best of

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THREE PERFECT DAYS || NASHVILLE and tossed with sugar and chocolate. Blrp. Gastrointestinal adventures notwithstanding, you take a cab out to Bluebird Café, the legendary club that featured so prominently in the show “Nashville.” It may be an unattractive little room in a strip mall, next to a BOARD MEETING hair salon, but it has a hisPâté campagnola at tory: Taylor Swift, Garth Rolf and Daughters Brooks and Townes Van Zandt have played here. As you enter, the doorman informs you all are the striking expressions of country that “the number one rule in the Bluebird music bling: Elvis’ “Solid Gold Cadillac” is, shhhhh.” (glittering with crushed diamonds) and Tonight features four veteran performWebb Pierce’s Pontiac Bonneville coners trading jokes and tunes. Billy Dean vertible, which is lined with hand-tooled gets called up. He prefaces his song with saddle leather and silver dollars, and a story: When he got his first hit, he told his bedecked with guns and horse heads made mother-in-law that “Christmas is on me of chrome. It cost the honky-tonk singer 20 this year,” and asked her what she wanted. grand to trick out. You want one. “She said, ‘I want something silver that A er a quick scrub at the Hermitage, goes from zero to 200 in three seconds.’” you head to the north side of town, to the Beat. “So I bought her a scale.” The perforneighborhood of Germantown, for dinmances are squarely in the folk tradition: ner at Rolf and Daughters, a new northern funny stories, sad songs. Whether it be Italian eatery that’s set in a former factory laughter or tears, the night gives you a and owned by James Beard–nominated glimpse into the beating heart of country chef Philip Krajeck. This is the chic side music, which, in turn, reveals the beating of Music City. You start with a Black Dog heart of Music City. Sour, made with moonshine, pernod, lime, egg white and bitters, followed by DAY TWO | It’s easier to extract yourself sourdough bread with seaweed butter from your room this morning, knowing and asparagus with lardo and trout roe. Next comes a rich, delicious garganelli what’s in store. You walk north, pausing to verde with heritage pork ragout. For puff your cheeks at a full-scale reproducdessert, it’s donuts stuffed with custard tion of the Parthenon, an incongruent

extravagance that was erected in 1897 as part of the centennial celebration of the “Athens of the South.” Soon, having honed your ambling techniques amid the splendid greenery of Bicentennial Park, you arrive once again in Germantown. Monell’s is a classic family-style restaurant set in a spacious old home with each room jammed with diners feasting at communal tables. There’s a wait, but a pleasant one, out in a garden space. Eventually, you’re seated at a table with a motley bunch: a few missionaries from Oklahoma, a couple from Louisville here for the weekend, a family from Atlanta in town to help their son move. Over heaps of fried chicken, grits, beans, catfish, biscuits, gravy, ham and so on, you trade stories, sing happy birthday and eat, eat, eat. A waitress comes over, takes stock of the empty plates and says, “Don’t y’all go passing out on me now.” You all agree that people should be made to eat with strangers more o en. Eventually, perambulatory again, you make your way back to Lower Broadway. The strip is heating up. You stop at the great Ernest Tubb Record Shop, where you meet a Californian schoolteacher who recently moved to Nashville. What brought him here? “Good fun!” he exclaims. “Great music at a good price!” Then, grinning: “And, well, tax advantages.” There’s music history of a diﬀerent sort at the nearby Hatch Show Print, a vintage le erpress that for more than 130 years has made the concert posters you see all over town, and whose walls are plastered with gorgeous vintage promos. From here, it’s

TENNESSEE MASH Nashville’s growing music scene is no longer just about country Nashville’s forever-long reputation as a country music mecca has taken a turn over the last few years. The country scene is still going strong, of course, but the city is also seeing ﬂashes of pop, rock and hip hop. “We’re starting to get this melting pot of genres,” says Emery Dobyns (pictured), a Grammy-winning engineer, rock producer and songwriter who moved to Nashville from New York this year because he saw an opportunity for more satisfying work. “Since I got here, I’ve been running into more and more music people from other cities. And these are successful people.” For Dobyns and others like him, the allure of Nashville’s storied musical tradition is compounded by its booming economy and all of the beneﬁts that come with it. “You have amazing food and culture, a great lifestyle,” he says. “You never run into someone who’s not working.” As for Dobyns, he’s keeping busy with Lily and the Parlour Tricks, an up-and-coming pop group who followed him down from New York, and who are also in the process of laying roots here. “New York will always be there, and L.A. is a great place to visit,” Dobyns says. “But this is the place.”

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NASHVILLE || THREE PERFECT DAYS

NASH UP Clockwise from top left, music memorabilia at The Country Music Hall of Fame; Nashvillephile Caroline Tompkins; statue of former resident and seventh U.S. president Andrew Jackson; Jack Whiteâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Third Man Records

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THREE PERFECT DAYS || NASHVILLE

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NASHVILLE || THREE PERFECT DAYS

HOT TOMATO!

BEARDS OF A FEATHER Musicians Russ Pollard and J.P. Harris; left, vintage posters at Hatch Show Print

Nashville’s quirkiest, seediest art fest bears fruit It was 2004, and Meg MacFadyen and her husband, Bret, had an idea. Music City summers were punishing, and the pair, who own the Art & Invention Gallery in East Nashville, were looking to start an event “that would make people come outside and be miserable in the heat together.” After some discussion, they decided that the best part about summer was tomatoes. Ergo: a tomato-themed art fest. A thousand people showed up, some dressed as tomatoes. “The whole thing was an accident,” MacFadyen says. The Tomato Art Fest has since expanded to include a parade, a pageant, food, music and a 5K race. But it retains its founding oddity, which is uniquely East Nashville. “Just because we thought it was funny,” says MacFadyen.

THE NAME GAME Nashville is, as the song goes, “a country boy’s Hollywood.” Like its big-screen counterpart to the west, it’s a place to chase your dreams, while at the same time summarily dumping your ungainly birth name. Here, courtesy of the wildly quirky Wildsam Field Guide to Nashville, are some of the more radical Nashville name changes. Big (of Big & Rich): William Kenneth Alphin John Denver: John Henry Deutschendorf Wynonna Judd: Christina Ciminella Patsy Cline: Virginia Patterson Hensley Ira and Charlie Louvin: Ira and Charlie Loudermilk Young Buck: David Darnell Brown Randy Travis: Randy Traywick Shania Twain: Eileen Regina Edwards Tammy Wynette: Virginia Pugh

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • SEPTEMBER 2013

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oﬀ to Ryman Auditorium, the high church of country music. The Ryman used to be home to “The Grand Ole Opry,” the TV and radio show that transformed country from a regional concern to a national one. A er the Opry moved to the glitzy, high-tech Opryland, the Ryman narrowly avoided the wrecking ball and survives today as a concert hall and museum. Upstairs, you watch a video biography of Minnie Pearl, the ebullient hillbilly character who once ruled the roost here. “Tryin’ to hold me back is like tryin’ to shoot off a cannon a little at a time,” she squeals. You soon learn, though, that Nashville’s status as the capital of country music is not conﬁned to the past. On a juke-joint

crawl down Lower Broadway, you start at the rollicking dive bar Tootsie’s Orchid Lounge, which, over the last half-century, has played host to everyone from Patsy Cline to Waylon Jennings. Yellowed photos of patrons and performers line the walls. The house band is all classic country, with dirty jokes and repeated calls to shout and drink (“holler and swaller”), and the capacity crowd obeys. A few doors down from here is an even more notable venue: Robert’s Western World. Even the snobs who deplore the Nash Vegas side of town will tell you to go to Robert’s. The Silver Threads are currently playing a set. The singer, Eileen Rose, calls Johnny Horton’s “Cherokee Boogie,” and the renowned guitarist Rich Gilbert replies, “I heard this

07/08/2013 15:27

THREE PERFECT DAYS || NASHVILLE song while trying to park.” “You can hear a lot of songs while trying to park,” quips Rose. “Nashville’s ge ing popular.” The big room is starting to ﬁll up. The next act, the Don Kelley Band, is a proving ground for some of Nashville’s best young guitar players, which is saying a lot for a city with the highest concentration of frighteningly skilled pickers in America. Kelley’s new guy is Daniel Donato, who is celebrating his high school graduation today. “Ain’t no new country music,” Kelley announces. “Only bad rock and roll.” Donato rips off solo after solo, each more impressive than the last. It’s dizzying. You had dinner plans, but you’ve never heard anything like this. A woman behind you is telling a story in a thick drawl. It ends with her shouting, “And I was holding her baby and drinking her beer!” Straight out of a country song. You order a burger and another round. As Gram Parsons once sang, you ain’t goin’ nowhere. DAY THREE | You’ve sustained some damage, and you’ve got local guy Kris Kristoﬀerson’s “Sunday Morning Coming Down” running through your head. (Well, I woke up Sunday morning / With no way to hold my head that didn’t hurt / And the

LOCAL KNOWLEDGE

LOCAL FLAVOR Arnold’s, only open for lunch

beer I had for breakfast wasn’t bad / So I had one more for dessert.) Breakfast beer is inadvisable, but you’re in need of some coﬀee. And maybe some grease. You hail a cab and head for East Nashville, the heart of the city’s new cultural resurgence. Barista Parlor doesn’t reveal itself readily. It’s hidden behind a fence, but once you locate it, you ﬁnd a large, open-faced building with rough-hewn wooden tables

supported by metal cables over sleek concrete floors. You order a terrific bourbon barrel vanilla la e—the vanilla of which was aged in a former bourbon barrel, resulting in an initial sweetness yielding to wood and bourbon flavors—and a biscuit with apple bu er and spicy sausage from the butcher shop next door. Next, you walk over to the leafy, devotedly quirky Five Points district, where you

THE INSIDE SCOOP FROM THOSE IN THE KNOW ILLUSTRATIONS BY PETER JAMES FIELD

Ray Kennedy,

Gavin O’Neill,

Katy Ka elman,

OWNER, ROOM & BOARD STUDIO

CO-OWNER, HELLO BOYS

OWNER, KATY K DESIGNS

“Ten minutes south of Nashville is Radnor, a wildlife preserve where you can watch birds, river otters, mink, muskrat, bobcat and coyote. It’s a perfect refuge from the madness.”

“I always suggest people check out a show at the High Watt, a club in the Gulch. It’s always a local band on the cusp of making it. I’ve never seen a bad show there.”

“Go to Prince’s for Hot Chicken in North Nashville. They’re so slow: You order and you age. But it’s good. Even the medium is hot. Rub your eyes after and you’ll go blind.”

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NASHVILLE || THREE PERFECT DAYS

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Ernest Tubb Record Shop Robert’s Western World Tootsie’s Orchid Lounge

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Las Paletas

Hillsboro

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Katy K Designs

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The Bluebird Café

DAY ONE

DAY TWO

DAY THREE

Arnold’s Country Kitchen 605 8th Ave. S; 615-256-4455 Hermitage 231 6th Ave. N; 615-244-3121 Crema 15 Hermitage Ave.; 615-255-8311 Third Man Records 623 7th Ave.; 615-891-4393 Country Music Hall of Fame 222 5th Ave. S; 615-416-2001 Rolf and Daughters 700 Taylor St.; 615-866-9897 The Bluebird Café 4104 Hillsboro Pike; 615-383-3669

Bicentennial Park 600 James Robertson Pkwy.; 615-741-5280 Ernest Tubb Record Shop 417 Broadway; 615-255-7503 Hatch Show Print 316 Broadway; 615-256-2805 Ryman Auditorium 116 5th Ave. N; 615-889-3060 Tootsie’s Orchid Lounge 422 Broadway; 615-726-0463 Robert’s Western World 416 Broadway; 615-244-9552

Barista Parlor 519 Gallatin Ave.; 615-712-9766 1907 Apparel 1006 Fatherland St.; 615-509-0795 Mas Tacos Por Favor 732 b Mcferrin Ave.; 615-543-6271 Las Paletas 2905 12th Ave. S #101; 615-386-2101 Katy K Designs 2407 12th Ave. S; 615-297-4242 The Catbird Seat 1711 Division St.; 615-810-8200 The Station Inn 402 12th Ave. S; 615-255-3301

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • SEPTEMBER 2013 • MAP BY STEVE STANKIEWICZ

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THREE PERFECT DAYS || NASHVILLE

YEE-HAW Fueling up at Barista Parlor; left, cowboy couture at Hello Boys

happen upon a cluster of indie shops called the Idea Hatchery. In a classic Nashville moment, you meet Gavin O’Neill, owner of a small but well-curated vintage store called Hello Boys, and learn that his boyfriend’s great-great-grandfather was the first person killed in the Hatfield-McCoy feud. His business partner is the daughter of country legend David Allen Coe. The woman who owns the shop next door is married to alt-country singer Todd Snider. A few blocks away, on Fatherland Street, is another cluster of hip boutiques. One, 1907 Apparel, echoing the cultural grandiosity that built the fake Parthenon, sells T-shirts reading: “LONDON PARIS ROME NASHVILLE.” Other outlets carry art, furniture, tea. A cashier in a shop selling vintage goods explains that he moved here to Nashville with his band, but the lead singer got a big head, signed a record deal and fired the rest of the guys. Lunch is nearby at Mas Tacos Por Favor, which is housed in a blue 1974 Winnebago parked at a farmer’s market in front of East Nashville High (notable alum: Oprah). You grab a quinoa sweet potato taco, followed

by a breakfast taco with eggs and chorizo, chased with a watermelon agua fresca. The guy hosting the farmer’s market comes over to chat. Not surprisingly, he’s a songwriter waiting for a break. You call a cab and wait, lazing out on the grass, listening to a couple of folk singers do their thing. You’re oﬀ to another neighborhood undergoing a resurgence, down 12th Avenue South. Hewing to the Mexican theme, you get a creamy coconut popsicle at Las Paletas, an establishment so popular that it seems everyone on the block is nursing one. You stroll around 12th and arrive at Katy K Designs, an endlessly intriguing vintage Western-wear stalwart ﬁlled with boots, pa erned dresses and wildly embroidered shirts. Dolly Parton used to live two doors down. Owner Katy Kattelman did outfits for her. Not long ago, Ka elman says ma er-of-factly, “Jack White brought Pee-Wee in here.” Dinner, however, brooks no honky-tonk frivolity. It’s at the Catbird Seat, a very highend, very avant garde restaurant. You enter through a basement door, then take an elevator up and step into a white, windowless

room with a U-shaped counter bracketing the chefs. You’re in for a 10-course tasting menu. It’s an intense experience: oysters with bu ermilk snow; salmon tartare with curried crackers; potato soup with sturgeon caviar, horseradish cream and garlic flowers; an Oreo made of Parmesan and porcini cream; swordfish with reduced charcuterie and truffle sauce; a dehydrated meringue with eucalyptus; cider made with Trappist yeast finished with maple syrup; and lots of wine. Followed by more wine. By the end you’re exhausted. You shuffle outside and, miraculously, there’s an empty cab coming up the street. In you go. “Where to?” Your body wants you to say “bed,” but you remember a guy you met earlier, who told you there was a great bluegrass show tonight at the Station Inn. An all-star band. A rare treat. The cabbie awaits your answer. You think a moment. “Station Inn, please.”

Boston-born JOE KEOHANE, an editor at Esquire, is thinking about acquiring a pair of cowboy boots, possibly embroidered.

BOARDING PASS From antique guitar picks to bourbon barrel vanilla lattes, Nashville is a burgeoning scene with a twanging country soundtrack. United can take you there with service from Houston, Denver, Chicago, New York/Newark, Cleveland and Washington. Before you go, remember Premier Access, the fast lane through the airport. An earlier place in line and the opportunity to board and get comfortable sooner will make your trip even more relaxing. For detailed schedule information or to book your ﬂight, go to united.com.

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09/08/2013 09:46

THE HEMI Q&A: MICHAEL KORS

a piece that you grab for again and again. “I’ve got a big night; I know that this bag, that dress, that lipstick—those are the things I can depend on.” If I pass the test of someone who’s got millions of eyes on them, then I know that for a woman who’s not in the public eye, it’s really going to work. HEMISPHERES: Speaking of not being in

the public eye, you had to skip most of the last season of “Project Runway.” Viewers surely missed your cutting commentary. You once told a contestant that their design looked like “the art teacher is on an acid trip.” Do you ever feel bad about saying such things?

» CONTINUED FROM PAGE 75

“In the late ’70s, there was this decadent a itude that permeated through fashion and into the beauty world. I was truly ready to go full-tilt.” I don’t wear anything. I use Jo Malone soap and that’s my fragrance. A li le bit of grapefruit for me and I’m done. I’m not that much of a guinea pig at this point.

glamorous textiles and anything that is tactile. So for me it’s this yin-yang.

HEMISPHERES: So how has your fashion

KORS: I think it’s that they know what works on them, and a majority of them are jugglers—they enjoy fashion and want to look stylish, but they’ve got a lot going on. And I think that Mrs. Obama is indicative of that.

aesthetic evolved since the days you were dousing yourself in Halston? KORS: [In the late ’70s at Studio 54,] I once took a piece of raw silk jersey—this kind of beige-y colored silk jersey—and I wrapped it as a diaper pant with leg warmers, boots and a luggage strap as a belt, with a panama hat. And then, of course, as I was dancing the night away, I realized at 4:30 in the morning that my diaper pant was quickly coming undone and I hunted around and found a safety pin somewhere and I lasted for the rest of the night. Now I like a sense of easiness. Even on a red carpet in an evening gown, I think people still need to be able to move. They want to sit comfortably and dance comfortably. But I love really

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KORS: I always just say what I viscerally feel when the clothes come out, which, quite frankly, is what any designer is going to have to contend with when they have their own collection, so I don’t feel bad about it. I do always try to say it with a grain of salt that’s a li le funny. HEMISPHERES: Another thing new design-

ers will have to contend with is the current economic situation. What do you think that means for the future of the fashion industry, not just ﬁnancially, but in terms of the fantasies it sells—the idea of luxury and glamour?

HEMISPHERES: What do people who wear

Michael Kors have in common?

KORS: Luxury and glamour will always be something that people desire, and something that they strive for. Whether the economy is doing well or struggling, if something makes you feel amazing, then it’s luxurious—it can be a fabulous coat or a new lipstick. Everyone needs a li le fantasy, and that’s what fashion and beauty are all about.

HEMISPHERES: It must be a thrill seeing

the First Lady wearing your clothes. KORS: When I was growing up, I always thought ﬁrst ladies wore prim colorful suits for an oﬃcial portrait. I certainly never dreamed that times would change; that, in fact, she would wear jersey, it would be sleeveless, it would be black, it would be athletic, and it would be mine. And then Mrs. Obama wore a dress of ours on election night that was almost four years old. I like the idea of wearing

HEMISPHERES: If you hadn’t become a

fashion designer, what do you think you’d be doing instead? KORS: I love theater and Broadway, but I can’t sing or dance, so I’d probably be a producer. HILARY MOSS is a New York-based fashion and culture writer who has been known to pull off an outﬁt a Teletubby would wear to a party.

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07/08/2013 15:25

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FEATURES || ATOMIC TOURISM

» CONTINUED FROM PAGE 91

laughs and reminds him that “the spring was built to withstand a nuclear explosion, so it doesn’t move unless the Earth does.” As we take a steel-cage elevator to the bottom of the silo and gaze up at the now-disarmed missile, Penson explains that what we’re really looking at is a study in the kind of meticulous planning and communications redundancy that is now ubiquitous in the 21st-century world of crash-resistant technology and data backup. From the springs to the 9,000 gallons of water needed to suppress the

RULES OF ATTRACTION A cautionary warning posted outside the fence of Titan II Site 571-7

missile engine’s deadly sound, to the multiple codes needed to get into the bunker, to the flame deflectors beneath the missile’s engine, “no contingency was too trivial to be ignored,” he says. This is hammered home during the chilling climax of the tour—a real-to-life simulation of a launch in the command center. Everything in this cramped room is as it was the day the bunker went offline in 1982—the yellowing manuals, the encoded Mylar reels that held the missile targeting information, the hulking computer panels, the aging blue Air Force jumpsuits and, of course, the keys. Ah yes, the keys. “This is the room from WarGames, right?” I ask our guide, referencing the Matthew Broderick blockbuster from 1983. “The one where the guys turn the keys?” That it is, he says, as Butch whispers, “Oh man, I knew it looked familiar.” As that film’s first searing scene illustrated, and as a tour guide named Sam now explains, with the right codes entered into the combination dial on the console, those tiny objects were the final bits of metal in a massive doomsday machine. Step by step, Sam clicks the numbers

into the dial. He opens the red safe. The bu ons on the console ﬂash. Those of us with cameras quit snapping pictures. The kids on the tour stop fooling around. The room goes silent. One of my fellow tourists is asked to put one of the keys into the circuit board as Sam puts an identical one into another slot a few feet away. The countdown begins. The keys are turned in unison. We all flinch as a klaxon alarm breaks the silence. A mere 58 seconds later—the time it would take to fuel the 330,000-pound missile—the world ends ... but it doesn’t. Instead, one of our tour guides smiles and hands the day’s designated tourist-turnedlaunch-commander a souvenir card that reads, “I turned the key.” ON OUR WAY back up to the surface, I meet fellow atomic tourist Dan Dansro, a crewmember at the Titan site in the 1970s who is visiting from Albuquerque with his wife and two teenage grandsons. Underneath the lobby’s “peace through deterrence” sign, he fondly reminisces about the uncomfortable situations and camaraderie that come with regularly working in a claustrophobic bunker for 24-hour shi s. But the 63-year-old’s expression turns more serious when I ask him what feels like a taboo question—would he have followed the ultimate order from his commanders to turn the Cold War hot? “The closest I ever got to that was when they told us to get our keys out of the safe,” he says. “It only happened once on my shi , and if it came to that, I would have done what I was trained to do, because I understood the importance of this weapon system.” Looking out across the dirt to the silo cover, he pauses, takes a deep breath, and in a somber voice adds, “The thing is, I never wanted to turn the keys. Never.”

DAVID SIROTA is a bestselling author and journalist. He looks back fondly on the duckand-cover drills of his grade school years.

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12/08/2013 09:51

ENTERTAINMENT

DIRECTV®

DIRECTV® IN FLIGHT allows you to select from

more than 100 channels of live television along with a full slate of blockbuster Hollywood movies, sitcoms and dramas. Purchase DIRECTV® and stay entertained for your entire ﬂight.

What you want to watch OVER 100 CHANNELS You can get more than 100 of your favorite TV channels. From big movies to sports to family programming, we have the best in entertainment.

Available on select 737 and 757 aircraft

Your favorite TV channels A&E ABC FAMILY ANIMAL BBCA BeIN BET BIG 10 BIO BLOOMBERG BOOM BRAVO CARTOON CBS CENTRIC CHILLER CLOO CMT CNBC CNN COMEDY COOK C-SPAN C-SPAN2 CW DEST DISCOVERY DISNEY DISNEY JR. DISNEY XD DIY E! ESPN ESPN CLASSIC ESPN2 ESPNEWS

HOW TO USE 1. Swipe your card* to begin. 2. Select your channel or movie and start watching. 3. Listen using your own headset or feel free to use the complimentary headset provided onboard. Your purchase is good for the entire flight, even when the aircraft door is open before takeoff, and you can turn the TV on and off throughout your flight. *MasterCard, Visa, American Express or Discover accepted. TV and movies are complimentary in first class.

265 311 282 264 620 329 610 266 353 298 237 296 390 330 257 308 327 355 202 249 232 350 351 394 286 278 290 289 292 230 236 206 614 209 207

ESPNU FOOD FOX FOX BUSINESS FOX NEWS FOX SOCCER FOX SPORTS 1 FOX SPORTS 2 FX FX MOVIE GALA GOLF GOSPEL GSN H2 HALLMARK HGTV HISTORY HLN HUB INVESTIGATION LEARNING LIFETIME LIFETIME MOVIE LINK MILITARY MLB NETWORK MSNBC MTV MTV2 NAT GEO NBC NBC SPORTS NFL NETWORK NICK

208 231 398 359 360 619 607 618 248 258 404 218 338 233 271 312 229 269 204 294 285 280 252 253 375 287 213 356 331 333 276 392 220 212 299

NICK JR. NICK TOON NRB OUTDOOR OVATION OWN OXYGEN REELZ RURAL TV SCIENCE SOAP SPIKE SPORTSMAN STYLE SYFY TBS TEEN NICK TENNIS TNT TRAVEL TRUTV TURNER MOVIE TV GUIDE TV LAND TVG UNI SPORTS UNIVISION USA VH1 VH1 CLASSIC WEA WGN WORD

301 302 378 606 274 279 251 238 345 284 262 241 605 235 244 247 303 217 245 277 246 256 273 304 602 625 402 242 335 337 362 307 373

SATELLITE COVERAGE AREA Since the programming is live from DIRECTV®, a ﬂight may take you out of the satellite coverage area. If this happens, prerecorded TV shows and movies will still be available.

Exact channel numbers and programming schedules are subject to change. DIRECTV® service is not available on ﬂights outside the continental United States. The signal may be lost in turbulence and/or if banking of the aircraft is required. DIRECTV® and United Airlines are not responsible for interruptions of service that are beyond our control including, without limitation, acts of nature, power failure or any other cause. ©2013 DIRECTV® Inc. DIRECTV® and the Cyclone Design logo are registered trademarks of DIRECTV® Inc. All other trademarks and service marks are the property of their respective owners.

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SEPTEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

07/08/2013 15:22

What you want to watch MOVIES Choose from a lineup of top Hollywood ﬁlms, including the inspirational 42 and Marvel's Iron Man 3 which features Robert Downey Jr. as an industrialist-turned-superhero. Other options include Epic, The Hangover Part 3, The Incredible Burt Wonderstone, Night at the Museum, Toy Story 2 and Trance. Or, browse for movies on live TV.

EARN 25,000

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To sign up for this exclusive DIRECTV at home offer Call 1-855-243-3473 or visit united.directv.com All DIRECTV offers require 24-month agreement. Offer ends 11/26/13. Credit card required (except in MA & PA). New approved customers only (lease required). Hardware available separately. Additional fees required. $19.95 Handling & Delivery fee may apply. Programming, pricing and offers are subject to change and may vary in certain markets. Other conditions apply. Go to united.directv.com for details. Miles accrued, awards, and beneﬁts issued are subject to change and subject to the rules of the MileagePlus program; go to united.com for details. United and its afﬁliates are not responsible for DIRECTV products or services. ©2013 DIRECTV. DIRECTV and the Cyclone Design logo are trademarks of DIRECTV, LLC. All other trademarks and service marks are the property of their respective owners.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • SEPTEMBER 2013

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ENTERTAINMENT

FILMS ARE SHOWN on ﬂights of three hours

or longer. Movies are available on select 737, 747, 757, 777, A319 and A320 aircraft ﬂights. Schedules and selections are subject to change. En el canal 10 encontrará películas y programas de televisión disponibles en Español.

Film & Television ENJOY THESE MOVIES AND SHOWS ON THE MAIN SCREEN

Films DOMESTIC AND INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS WILL SHOW THE FOLLOWING MOVIES EASTBOUND

WESTBOUND

AUGUST 1-15

The Internship [T]

The Great Gatsby [T]

AUGUST 16-31

Star Trek: Into Darkness [T]

After Earth [T]

AUGUST 1-15

Star Trek: Into Darkness [T]

After Earth [T]

AUGUST 16-31

The Internship [T]

The Great Gatsby [T]

NORTH AMERICA

HAWAII

SOUTHBOUND

LATIN AMERICA & CARIBBEAN

NORTHBOUND

AUGUST 1-15

The Great Gatsby [T]

The Internship [T]

AUGUST 16-31

After Earth [T]

Star Trek: Into Darkness [T]

• Flights between Chicago or Denver and Hawaii will show both films. • Select films are shown on flights within Micronesia and on intra-Asia flights on 737 and 777 aircraft.

Television SELECT FLIGHTS MAY FEATURE THE FOLLOWING TELEVISION PROGRAMMING The Big Bang Theory [T] Trophy Wife Inside the Actor’s Studio Storage Wars [T]

Mike and Molly [T] The Middle A New Age of Exploration [T] House Hunters

The Office [T] The Neighbors [T] Shark Tank [T] Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives

Parks and Recreation Suburgatory [T] Brain Games 2 Treehouse Masters

[T] = Adult themes

Wi-Fi update Wi-Fi installations have begun on select aircraft, and we are working with our partners to complete certifications for additional aircraft types. We plan to have more than 500 aircraft flying with Wi-Fi by the end of 2014. Follow our installation progress at united.com/wifi.

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To determine if a flight offers United Wi-Fi, you can check the Inflight Amenities tab on the Flight Status & Information page on united.com for an upcoming flight, look for the Wi-Fi logo on the side of the plane as you board or listen for the announcement by your flight crew once your flight has reached 10,000 feet. United Wi-Fi pricing will vary based on the length of the flight.

SEPTEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

07/08/2013 11:05

MOST FILMS HAVE BEEN EDITED for

airline use. However, customer discretion is still advised. Content guidelines are provided as a courtesy to help our customers decide whether to view a ﬁlm.

CUSTOMERS ARE WELCOME to view their own video entertainment aboard a United aircraft as long as they are able to show that the programming has an MPAA rating of “R” or less.

After Earth [T] A crash landing leaves Kitai Raige and his father Cypher stranded. Kitai must embark on a perilous journey to signal for help, facing uncharted terrain, evolved animal species and an unstoppable alien creature. FEATURING Jaden Smith, Will Smith DIRECTED BY M. Night Shyamalan

The Great Gatsby 1 hr. 38 min.

The Internship Billy and Nick are out-of-work salesmen who have talked their way into a Google internship. Now they must compete with a group of the nation’s most elite, tech-savvy geniuses to prove that necessity really is the mother of reinvention. FEATURING Vince Vaughn, Owen Wilson DIRECTED BY Shawn Levy

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • SEPTEMBER 2013

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WHAT DO YOU THINK of our programming? We’re open to suggestions. Please send them to play@united.com or visit united.com/play.

[T]

Would-be writer Nick Carraway arrives in NYC in 1922, an era of loosening morals, glittering jazz and bootleg kings. As Nick bears witness, he pens a tale of impossible love, incorruptible dreams and high-octane tragedy. FEATURING Leonardo DiCaprio, Tobey Maguire DIRECTED BY Baz Luhrmann

2 hr. 15 min.

Star Trek: Into Darkness 1 hr. 59 min.

In the wake of a shocking act of terror, the Enterprise is called back home to Earth. In deﬁance of regulations and with a personal score to settle, Captain Kirk leads his crew on a manhunt to capture an unstoppable force. FEATURING Chris Pine, Zachary Quinto DIRECTED BY J.J. Abrams

2 hr. 12 min.

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ENTERTAINMENT

Film & Television THE FOLLOWING FILMS ARE AVAILABLE ON INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS

INTERNATIONAL LANGUAGE TRACKS (G) Synchronisierte Versionen finden Sie auf Kanal 2 und 3 (wenn verfügbar). (J) 日本語の吹き替えはチャンネル2番および３番でお聴きいただけます。（一部英語音声のみとなります。） (C) 如果可用，在第2频道和第3频道将提供语言录音 (K) 채널 2,3에서 더빙버전이 제공됩니다

(G) German (J) Japanese (C) Chinese (K) Korean (T) Thai (M) Mandarin

B747 Mainscreen Programming FROM U.S. The Internship [T] 1 hr., 59 min. Star Trek: Into Darkness [T] 2 hr., 12 min. U.K.

2 hr.

Marvel’s Iron Man 3 2 hr., 1 min.

2 hr.

The Internship [T] 1 hr., 59 min. (G) Star Trek: Into Darkness [T] 2 hr., 12 min. (G) 2 hr.

2 hr.

The Internship [T] 1 hr., 59 min. 2 hr.

After Earth 1 hr., 38 min. 2 hr.

Star Trek: Into Darkness [T] 2 hr., 12 min. 2 hr.

Marvel’s Iron Man 3 2 hr., 1 min. 42 [T] 1 hr., 45 min. 2 hr.

Epic 1 hr., 42 min. The Company You Keep [T] 2 hr., 1 min. 2 hr.

The Great Gatsby [T] 2 hr., 15 min. (J,K) 2 hr.

The Internship [T] 1 hr., 59 min. (J,K) 2 hr.

After Earth 1 hr., 38 min. (J,K) 2 hr.

Star Trek: Into Darkness [T] 2 hr., 12 min. (J,K) 2 hr.

Marvel’s Iron Man 3 2 hr., 1 min. (J,K) 42 [T] 1 hr., 45 min. (J,K) 2 hr.

Epic 1 hr., 42 min. The Company You Keep [T] 2 hr., 1 min. (J,K) 2 hr.

The Great Gatsby [T] 2 hr., 15 min. (C) 2 hr.

The Internship [T] 1 hr., 59 min. (C) 2 hr.

After Earth 1 hr., 38 min. (C) CHINA & HONG KONG

Marvel’s Iron Man 3 2 hr., 1 min. (G) 42 [T] 1 hr., 45 min. (G) 2 hr.

The Great Gatsby [T] 2 hr., 15 min.

JAPAN & SOUTH KOREA

The Great Gatsby [T] 2 hr., 15 min. (G) After Earth 1 hr., 38 min. (G) 2 hr.

Epic 1 hr., 42 min. (G) The Company You Keep [T] 2 hr., 1 min. (G) 2 hr.

AUSTRALIA

The Great Gatsby [T] 2 hr., 15 min. After Earth 1 hr., 38 min. 2 hr.

Epic 1 hr., 42 min.

GERMANY

TO U.S.

2 hr.

Star Trek: Into Darkness [T] 2 hr., 12 min. (C) 2 hr.

Marvel’s Iron Man 3 2 hr., 1 min. (C) 42 [T] 1 hr., 45 min. (C) 2 hr.

Epic 1 hr., 42 min. The Company You Keep [T] 2 hr., 1 min. (C) 2 hr.

FROM JAPAN THAILAND, TAIWAN & SINGAPORE *THAILAND AND SINGAPORE FLIGHTS ONLY

The Croods (T) 1 hr., 38 min. A Late Quartet (C) 1 hr., 45 min. 2 hr.

TO JAPAN Admission (C,J) 1 hr., 55 min. The Incredible Burt Wonderstone (C,J,T) 1 hr., 40 min. 2 hr.

2 hr. = Two-hour block of television [T] = Adult themes

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SEPTEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

07/08/2013 11:05

DIGITAL MEDIA LOADING occurs between

the 25th of one month and the 5th of the following month. As a result, please understand if your ﬂight features a different lineup before or after the start of each month.

Admission An admissions officer is caught off-guard when she meets a student who might be the son she gave up for adoption. FEATURING Tina Fey, Paul Rudd DIRECTED BY Paul Weitz

A Late Quartet [T] 1 hr. 45 min.

42 Branch Rickey makes history when he signs Jackie Robinson, breaking MLB’s infamous color line. FEATURING Chadwick Boseman, Harrison Ford DIRECTED BY Brian Helgeland

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • SEPTEMBER 2013

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1 hr. 45 min.

The Company You Keep [T] 2 hr. 8 min.

The Incredible Burt Wonderstone Superstar magicians face cutthroat competition from a guerrilla street magician with a cult following. FEATURING Steve Carell, Steve Buscemi, Jim Carrey DIRECTED BY Don Scardino

The four members of a world-renowned string quartet struggle to stay together. FEATURING Philip Seymour Hoffman, Christopher Walken DIRECTED BY Yaron Zilberman

A former Weather Underground activist, is forced to leave his carefully constructed life and go on the run. FEATURING Robert Redford, Shia LaBeouf, Julie Christie DIRECTED BY Robert Redford

2 hr. 1 min.

The Croods 1 hr. 40 min.

The world’s ﬁrst modern family embark on the journey of a lifetime when their cave is destroyed. VOICES BY Nicholas Cage, Emma Stone, Ryan Reynolds DIRECTED BY Chris Sanders, Kirk De Micco

1 hr. 38 min.

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07/08/2013 11:05

ENTERTAINMENT

Audio Programming Audio Mixes

Featuring songs by Roy Orbison, Cream, Fleetwood Mac and more

Featuring songs by Meat Loaf, Toto, Cheap Trick and more

Featuring songs by Duran Duran, Tiffany, Starship and more

Featuring songs by Brian Eno, Enya, Runestone and more

Featuring a chronology of songs by The Eagles

Featuring compositions performed by orchestras from New York to Stuttgart

Featuring songs by Martina McBride, Trace Adkins, Toby Keith and more

Featuring Chinese popular music including cantopop and mandopop

Featuring songs by DJ Fresh, David Guetta, Duck Sauce and more

Featuring songs by Joss Stone, Snow Patrol, Josh Groban and more

Featuring songs by Ella Fitzgerald, Julie London, George Benson and more

Featuring songs by Exile, AKB48, Sukima Switch and more

Featuring songs by Super Junior, Girls’ Generation, Wonder Girls and more

Featuring songs by Johnny Pacheco, Sergio Mendes and more

Featuring songs by Paramore, Foo Fighters, Sublime With Rome and more

Featuring songs by Akon, Jordin Sparks, John Legend and more

Featuring songs by Elvis Presley, Bobby Darin, the Shirelles and more

Featuring songs by Miley Cyrus, Justin Bieber, Selena Gomez and more

Featuring songs by Adele, Beyoncé, Lady Gaga and more

Download the complete playlist at www.united.com/play.

Podcasts Stimulate your curiosity and learn something new during your ﬂight. Some of the most engaging content from American Public Media™ and Quick and Dirty Tips™ is now available on aircraft with personal on-demand entertainment. Tune in and enjoy! Note: May be listed under “All music” on some aircraft.

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SEPTEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

07/08/2013 11:07

CHANNEL 9 Listen for your flight number to hear live communication between the flight deck and FAA air traffic control. This feature, unique to United, may not be available on all flights, including oceanic crossings with limited audio communication. Available at your captain’s discretion.

Audio Channels by Aircra CHANNEL

777

SELECT A320

A319 & A320

747

737 & 757-300

757 & 767

Movie (English)

Today’s hits

Movie (Dubbed)

Today’s hits

R&B

Movie (Dubbed)

R&B

4 5 6 7 8

Classical

’60s

Classical

Country

’60s

Classical

—

’60s

’70s

—

’70s

’80s

—

’80s

From the ﬂight deck

From the ﬂight deck or R&B

—

From the ﬂight deck or Modern rock

Movie (Dubbed)

Today’s hits

Movie (Dubbed)

Modern rock

’60s

Teen pop

Modern rock

—

Latin

’70s

K-pop

Latin or J-pop on Micronesia ﬂights

—

13 14 15 16 17 18 19

Dance

’80s

J-pop

—

Ambient

Modern rock

C-pop

—

Artist spotlight

—

Jazz

—

J-pop

—

Easy listening

—

Teen pop

—

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • SEPTEMBER 2013

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ENTERTAINMENT

ALL THEME CLUES ARE IN BOLD If you ﬁll in the crossword, please take the magazine with you so it’s replaced. Answers on page 68

Crossword WAY UP NORTH BY GREG BRUCE

126

SEPTEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

1 5 10 15 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 29 31 33 35 36 37 40 42 46 47 48 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 58 59 60 62 64 65 66 67 68 71 72 76 77 78 80 81 82 83 84 85

Indian king Hysterical Florida’s Key ___ Pepsi, for one Burden or responsibility Domicile Goodbye Declare Bamboozles Femme fatale Citadel student Not far Protective gear Underling Excessively ﬂattering Corporate department Old character Shake off Putin’s place Raccoonlike beast Appropriate Whopper topper Flying jib, e.g. Eyetooth Same old, same old Substance abuser Mountain pool Be worthy of “Goldberg Variations” composer Choke or joke “Dang!” Apple leftover Like Sasquatch Telescope part Unfavorable prognosis Pouring aid Roll call reply ___ Islands of Denmark Tibetan priest Endeavored Brazilian dance Vintage toy material Dried fruit Improvise Muscle spasm Border Run Spot Ethereal Sting operation Munched on

p126-128_HEM0913_Puzzles.indd 126

86 88 89 90 92 94 95 96 97 99 102 104 108 109 111 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 121

Big step __ dish (fries or rice) Lacking Man in a cast, e.g. Peppermint ___ Country of fjords “Boys ___ be boys” Ring bearer Remove On the keyboard ___ up Surrounded by Bust, so to speak Make a shambles of Christmas wish Mix Bad marks Liking Mike holder Big name in computers “Say ___” Early stages Filer Shout

DOWN 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 28 30 32 34 36 37 38

Led Zeppelin’s genre Brieﬂy unknown? Kind of bug Appraiser Spice mixture, in Indian cookery Stand for ___’easter Midmonth date New York City park Terse Saw A maxim “You don’t say!” Perform better than Where Hudson Bay is Lapsed Farm soil Wrong No gain without it Not at home Parcel (out) Barely Hotel offering Roulette bet Take back

Military assault Sty sound Entangle Oz Scarecrow’s lack Simoleons Gas additive Booze Developed “So ___!” Overdone Strainer Overwhelm Zagreb resident Expression of doubt or displeasure 61 Call 63 Sun or moon

39 41 42 43 44 45 47 49 52 54 56 57 58 59

64 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 77 79 82 84 86 87

Liking Well-known Unit of petrol (Brit. var.) Impact sound One’s pledged word Indian coin Paint ﬁnish Woodstock wear It shows the way Pageant prize Drain Like the ﬂu “Hold on!” Kind of heel Elegy Roasting rod Insult, perhaps

88 89 91 93 94 96 98 99 100 101 102 103 105 106 107 110 112

Spire C-worthy Volvo’s home Toward the rear To wit Trash Speed demon No-win situation Individually Pickup shtick? Low voice Stationery store buy High spirits Pie perch Cost to cross Didn’t hold Bananas

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ENTERTAINMENT

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SEPTEMBER 2013 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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8:00 pm 9:00 pm 10:00 pm

7:00 pm

Route Maps

12:00 MON.

11:00 pm

Route lines do not reﬂect actual ﬂight path

United/United Express

2:00 am

3:00 am

5:00 am

6:00 am

7:00 am

8:00 am

9:00 am

11:00 am

10:00 am

12:00 pm

4:00 am

ARCTIC OCEAN

Lulea Fairbanks Reykjavik

ICELAND

Umea Trondheim Ostersund Kristiansund Vaasa Molde SWEDEN

NORWAY

UNITED KINGDOM

CANADA

Khabarovsk Seattle Harbin Sapporo

Edinburgh

CHINA

Hohhot Beijing

Baotou

Guwahati

BANGLADESH

Agartala Dhaka BURMA

Niigata

SAN FRANCISCO

Qingdao

Nanning Macau Shenzhen Ishigaki Hanoi Hong Kong TAIWAN Chiang Rai LAOS Haikou Chiang Mai Vientiane THAILAND Yangon South China Khon Kaen Sea Luzon Island Manila Bangkok

5:30

Sendai

CAMBODIA VIETNAM Phnom Penh

Krabi Phuket Hat Yai Penang

9:00 pm

Saipan Rota

GUAM

MARSHALL ISLANDS

Kwajalein Pohnpei Chuuk (Truk)

Palau

FEDERATED STATES OF MICRONESIA

Bandar Seri Begawan

Kuala Lumpur

Chihuahua

Yap Kota Kinabalu

MALAYSIA

BRUNEI N

Majuro

Honolulu

Oran

MOROCCO Bermuda

San Antonio

CANARY ISLANDS

Tenerife Las Palmas

Dakar Banjul

MONT.

GUINEA BISSAU

NIGER

Astana Donetzk

GUINEA

Conakry Freetown

SIERRA LEONE

Monrovia LIBERIA

U. A. E.

BENIN TOGO

BRAZIL

ERITREA

Khartoum

CAMEROON CENTRAL AFRICAN REPUBLIC Douala

Accra Lome Abidjan Malabo

EQUATORIAL GUINEA

Sao Tome SAO TOME & PRINCIPE

Apia

WESTERN SAMOA

Port Vila

FIJI

Cairns

Entebbe

Nadi

2:00 pm

Luanda

to San Francisco

1:00

Adelaide

Sydney

to Los Angeles

Hamilton Nelson

Queenstown

Rotorua Napier-Hastings

Palmerston North Wellington Blenheim Christchurch

Dunedin

World time zones shown in Standard Time. 9:00 pm

10:00 pm

to New York (Newark)

to Washington (Dulles)

11:00 pm

1:00 am

2:00 am

3:00 am

4:00 am

Windhoek

Bermuda

Mahé

TANZANIA

Montevideo Buenos Aires

VENEZUELA

6:00 am

7:00 am

8:00 am

9:00 am

INDIAN OCEAN

SEYCHELLES

Dar Es Salaam

3:00 pm

4:00 pm

6:00 pm

5:00 pm

COMOROS MALAWI

Lilongwe Atlantic Harare Ocean

Manzini SCOTLAND

Bergen

NORWAY

FINLAND

Oslo SWEDEN

Helsinki

Stockholm ESTONIA

Stavanger MADAGASCAR Aberdeen

Maputo

Bloemfontein Maseru

SOUTH AFRICA

IRELAND LESOTHO

Aalborg

Gothenburg

LATVIA

DENMARK

Aarhus Billund Esbjerg

Riga Copenhagen Malmo

Palanga LITHUANIA RUSSIA

Vilnius Bremen Hamburg POLAND BELARUS East London Dublin WALES Berlin ENGLAND NETH. Hannover Cape Town Shannon Birmingham Amsterdam Warsaw Port Muenster Elizabeth Cork GERMANY Leipzig London BELGIUM Dresden Bristol London Brussels Prague (Gatwick) Katowice Cologne Frankfurt UKRAINE CZECH Cities served by select airline Luxembourg Nuremberg REPUBLIC SLOVAKIA partners that are not visible Stuttgart Munich Paris on the map: Salzburg Basel Linz Vienna Budapest FRANCE AUSTRIA Manzini, Swaziland Friedrichshafen Klagenfurt Cluj-Napoca SWITZ. Durban, South Africa Ljubljana Geneva Verona Lyon Zagreb Venice Bucharest Maputo, Mozambique TriesteBOS. ROMANIA Turin Milan Bologna Harare, Zimbabwe HERZ. Belgrade Genoa Florence Toulouse SERBIA Lilongwe, Malawi Sarajevo La Coruna BULGARIA Marseille Nice Pisa Ancona KOS. Bilbao Sofia Dubrovnik Skopje Istanbul Rome ALBANIA MAC. SPAIN Barcelona Porto Naples ITALY Thessaloniki Madrid PORTUGAL Valencia Alexandroupolis Palma GREECE Ibiza La Romana Palermo Alicante Lisbon Mediterranean Sea Izmir Sevilla Mikonos Faro Rhodes MALTA Luga Heraklion

Porto Alegre

Santiago

MALDIVES

Glasgow Edinburgh SWAZILAND NORTHERN Newcastle IRELAND UNITED Belfast Durban KINGDOM

Johannesburg

Curitiba Florianopolis

URUGUAY

5:00 am

BOTSWANA

Gaborone

Cordoba

COLOMBIA

12:00 MIDNIGHT

Rio de Janeiro

Coimbatore

SRI LANKA

KENYA

MOZAMBIQUE ZIMBABWE

NAMIBIA

Iguassu Falls

ARGENTINA

ZAMBIA Lusaka

Belo Horizonte

PARAGUAY

to to New York New York (La Guardia) (Newark)

Santiago Monterrey Samana Torreon Matamoros Nassau Santo Domingo Durango MEXICO Ciudad Victoria Aguadilla Havana Los Cabos San Juan Tampico Providenciales Aguascalientes Vieques Queretaro Tepic Cozumel St. Thomas Poza Rica Puerto Plata Tortola Jalapa Puerto Vallarta Ciudad del Grand Cayman Anguilla Manzanillo Veracruz Carmen Mexico Montego St. Maarten City Puebla Guadalajara Belize Bay Ponce Punta Antigua Oaxaca Kingston Morelia Cana St. Croix Roatan Pointe a Pitre Lazaro Mayagüez St. Kitts San Pedro Sula Cardenas Martinique Huatulco Nevis Puerto St. Lucia Tegucigalpa Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo Escondido Villahermosa Barbados San Andres Aruba Acapulco Bonaire Island Guatemala City NIC. Grenada Tobago San Salvador COSTA Caracas Port-of-Spain Managua RICA Panama City PACIFIC OCEAN Liberia PANAMA

Auckland

NEW ZEALAND

to Cleveland

Saltillo

Tasman Sea

Melbourne

to Denver

HOUSTON (INTERCONTINENTAL) Hermosillo San Austin Chihuahua Antonio Piedras Guaymas Negras

Norfolk Island

Gold Coast

Perth

p131-136_HEM0913_Routemaps.indd 131

Campo Grande

Noumea

9:30 pm

8:00 pm

CHILE

Rarotonga

ANGOLA

Bangalore Chennai (Madras)

Kozhikode Cochin Trivandrum

BURUNDI

Bujumbura

10:00 am

Brasilia Goiania

Santa Cruz

Papeete

Niue

NEW CALEDONIA Brisbane

7:00 pm

FRENCH POLYNESIA

BOLIVIA

Mangalore

Nairobi

RWANDA

Natal Recife

Salvador Cuzco

Nuku’ Alofa

AUSTRALIA

6:00 pm

Lima

Pago Pago

Goa

Arabian Sea

Colombo

Lubumbashi

Coral Sea

YEMEN

SOMALIA

Kigali

Kinshasa

Raipur

ETHIOPIA

UGANDA

Libreville GABON CONGO

Pune

Mumbai

Addis Ababa

Juba

DEM. REP. CONGO

Yaounde

Kolkata

Nagpur

4:00 pm

NIGERIA

SOUTH SUDAN

INDIA

Ahmedabad

DJIBOUTI

Kano

Abuja Cotonou Port Harcourt GHANA Lagos

Maceió Darwin

Muscat OMAN

Sanaa

Asmara

SUDAN

Pointe Noire

Denpasar Bali

INDIAN OCEAN

KAZAKHSTAN

Krasnodar

SERB. Sofia KOS.

CHAD

1:00 pm

GAMBIA Bamako BURKINA FASO Ouagadougou Bissau

Fortaleza

PERU

6:00 pm

SAUDI ARABIA

MALI

SENEGAL

Manaus

Guayaquil

PAPUA NEW GUINEA

4:00

EGYPT

MAURITANIA Sal CAPE VERDE ISLANDS

ATLANTIC OCEAN

ECUADOR

Ekaterinburg

Jeddah

Quito

PACIFIC OCEAN

ALGERIA

WESTERN SAHARA

FRENCH GUIANA

Cali

Kosrae

Jakarta

Nador

Funchal

COLOMBIA

Algiers

12:00

Saltillo Monterrey Santo Torreon Nassau Domingo Durango MEXICO Tampico Aguadilla Los Cabos Aguascalientes Providenciales San Juan Queretaro Cozumel Puerto Mexico City St. Thomas Plata Veracruz Ciudad del Grand Cayman Puerto Vallarta St. Maarten Manzanillo Carmen Puebla Montego Antigua Belize Guadalajara Punta Bay Oaxaca Tuxtla Roatan Cana Morelia Huatulco Gutiérrez San Pedro Sula Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo St. Lucia Tegucigalpa Villahermosa Aruba Acapulco Guatemala City Bonaire Barranquilla NIC. Port-of-Spain Panama San Salvador Caracas COSTA City Managua Maracaibo Valencia RICA PANAMA Liberia Cartagena VENEZUELA SURINAME Bucaramanga GUYANA Medellin

Singapore

Madrid

Lisbon

Horta

Casablanca

Cebu

Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon)

WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES)

DENVER

Barcelona

PORTUGAL

NEW YORK (NEWARK)

HOUSTON Austin (INTERCONTINENTAL)

COMMONWEALTH OF NORTHERN MARIANA ISLANDS

PHILIPPINES

CLEVELAND

LOS ANGELES

International Date Line

6:00

Pyongyang

Komatsu Seoul S. KOREA TOKYO Pusan Fukuoka Osaka Nagoya Nanjing Cheju Okayama Hefei Nagasaki Shanghai Hiroshima Chengdu Wuhan Kumamoto Kochi Oita Ningbo Kagoshima Hangzhou Chongqing Matsuyama Changsha Wenzhou Miyazaki Guiyang Fuzhou Guangzhou Okinawa Kunming Taipei Xiamen Guilin Zhengzhou

BHUTAN

JAPAN

N. KOREA

Dalian

Tianjin

Moscow

Alma-Ata Black Sea Bishkek UZBEKISTAN GEORGIATbilisi Skopje Baku 5:00 Batumi Istanbul KYRGYZSTAN Tashkent Tirana ARMENIA Ankara AZER. TURKMENISTAN Kayseri ALB. GREECE Izmir Dushanbe TURKEYYerevan TAJIKISTAN Athens Antalya Adana Gaziantep Bodrum Ashgabat Erbil Tunis Malta Rhodes Ercan Larnaca AFGHAN. Islamabad CYPRUS Beirut Mashad Tehran TUNISIA Mediterranean Sea LEBANON Jammu Peshawar SYRIA Baghdad Damascus Tripoli Tel Aviv IRAN 4:30 Lahore Amritsar Amman IRAQ Benghazi Alexandria ISRAEL Chandigarh 3:30 Kathmandu JORDAN Kuwait 5:00 Cairo Delhi NEPAL PAKISTAN Dammam 2:00 pm QATAR Jaipur LIBYA Lucknow Bahrain Luxor Dubai Karachi Riyadh Doha Indore 5:30 Patna Abu Dhabi Rome

SPAIN

New York (La Guardia)

5:00 pm

4:00

Manchester

HER.

CHICAGO (O’HARE)

RUSSIA

St. Petersburg

Tallinn

n Sea pia as

U.S.A.

Shenyang

FINLAND Helsinki

Riga LAT. Copenhagen LITH. Malmo Vilnius Belfast Hamburg Gdansk Minsk Dublin Amsterdam BELARUS Berlin Shannon GERMANY Warsaw Brussels Cork POLAND Kiev Birmingham London Krakow Frankfurt Stuttgart UKRAINE Kosice Munich Paris MOLDOVA Chisinau AUSTRIA SWITZ. ROMANIA FRANCE Odessa Geneva Milan BOS.- Belgrade Bucharest

9:30

Changchun

Oulu

2:00 pm

Stockholm

Glasgow

2:00

Turku

Oslo

Hudson Bay

MONGOLIA

Alta

GREENLAND ALASKA (U.S.)

Anchorage

8:00 pm

3:00 pm

2:00 pm

Tromso

RUSSIA

Ulaanbataar

1:00 pm

MIDNIGHT

United Seasonal Service United Future Service CITY United Hub (Red All Caps) Cities served Cities served by select airline partners Time zone boundary

INTERNATIONAL CITIES

1:00 am

12:00 SUN.

10:00 am

11:00 am

12:00 NOON

1:00 pm

Gdansk

Kaliningrad

Manchester

0913

07/08/2013 11:12

Cullaton Lake Ennadai Lake Prince Rupert

Route Maps

Smithers Terrace

Sand Spit

NORTH AMERICAN CITIES

Fort St. John

Route lines do not reﬂect actual ﬂight path

Fort McMurray Prince George

to Fairbanks

INFORMATION

United Seasonal Service United Future Service CITY United Hub (Red All Caps) Cities served Cities served by select airline partners Time zone boundary

United/United Express Route

Customs & Immigration U.S. AND GUAM INTERNATIONAL ARRIVALS/ EXPEDITED SCREENING THROUGH CBP AND TSA

Grande Prairie Goose Bay

to Anchorage

Paciﬁc Time Zone B R I T I S H 4:00

C O LU M B I A

Mountain Time Zone 5:00

Kamloops

Vancouver

Nanaimo

Edmonton

Central Time Zone 6:00

A L B E R TA

Kelowna Penticton

Victoria

Calgary

Arrivals in the U.S.

C A N A DA Newfoundland Time Zone 8:30

Wabush

MANITOBA

Gander

Deer Lake NEWFOUNDLAND & LABRADOR

S A S K AT C H E WA N

Saskatoon Castlegar Cranbrook Lethbridge Medicine Hat Spokane Kalispell

Seattle

WA S H I N GT O N

Pasco

Missoula

Eugene

Helena Redmond

Crescent City Eureka

I DA H O

OREGON

Medford

Boise

Redding

NORTH DA KO TA

Dickinson

Billings

Cody/ Yellowstone Idaho Falls

Klamath Falls

Minot

Lewistown M O N TA NA

Bozeman

Thunder Bay

Grand MINNE SOTA Forks

Timmins Rouyn-Noranda

MAINE

North Bay

Sault Ste. Marie

Bangor Bar Harbor

Wausau Minneapolis Eau Claire Green Bay

Plattsburgh Burlington

Kingston

Halifax

Portland

N E W YO R K

Killeen

Paciﬁc Ocean

0 0

50 50

100

LOUISIANA

College Station Alexandria Lake Charles Lafayette

Austin

Honolulu Kapalua

HOUSTON San Antonio (INTERCONTINENTAL) Beaumont/ Pt. Arthur

Maui

Kona

Hilo

150 Miles 200 Kilometers

MISSISSIPPI

Baton Rouge

Mobile

Ft. Walton Gulfport/ Beach New Biloxi Orleans

100

200

300

400 Miles

Harlingen Brownsville

Gulf Of Mexico

Ft. Myers

MEXICO

Orlando Melbourne

100

200

300

400

500

Newark (Liberty)

New Haven Stamford New York (Penn Station)

Philadelphia Wilmington Washington, DC

BAHAMAS

Key West 0

2. First (Given) Name

3. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY)

4. Country of Citizenship

5. Sex (Male or Female)

6. Passport Issue Date (DD/MM/YY)

7. Passport Expiration Date (DD/MM/YY)

8. Passport Number

9. Airline and Flight Number

10. Country Where You Live

11. Country Where You Boarded 13. Date Issued (DD/MM/YY)

17. Email Address

CBP Form I-94 (05/08)

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection

OMB No. 1651-0111

All passengers (or one passenger per family) are required to complete a Customs Declaration before arrival in the U.S. Write in English, in Left, U.S. I-94 Arrival/Departure Record, which all Guam-CNMI Visa Waiver Program participants capital letters. Be sure must complete; right, U.S. Customs Declaration to include the street name and number, city and state of your address in the U.S. If you are transiting through the U.S., you may write TRANSIT and your ﬁnal destination country. Please read both sides of the declaration and place your signature at the bottom of the form. 18. Family Name

19. First (Given) Name

20. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY)

21. Country of Citizenship

CBP Form I-94 (05/08)

See Other Side

STAPLE HERE

TSA Pre

F L O R I DA

Treasure Cay Freeport Marsh Harbour Ft. Lauderdale/Hollywood North Eleuthera Governors Harbour Miami Bimini Nassau

1. Family Name

is a TSA-managed and -operated expedited screening initiative available in many U.S. airports. Beneﬁts may include no longer removing the following items when going through airport security: shoes, light outerwear/jacket, belt, 3-1-1–compliant bag from carry-on, and laptop from bag.

Boston

Sarasota/Bradenton West Palm Beach

000000000 00

16. Telephone Number in the U.S. Where You Can be Reached

TSA Pre

BERMUDA

MileagePlus Eligible Service

Jacksonville

OMB No. 1651-0111

Admission Number

The following travelers are eligible for enrollment in Global Entry™: • Citizens and residents of the U.S. • Citizens of Mexico who hold a U.S. visa • Citizens of the Netherlands who are enrolled in Privium • Citizens of South Korea who are enrolled in SES (Smart Entry Service) • Members of NEXUS or SENTRI Application for enrollment in Global Entry™ is available at the Global On-Line Enrollment System: goes-app.cbp.dhs.gov. It costs only $100, which covers enrollment for a ﬁve-year period. The government will review the applicant’s information while a background investigation is conducted. Applicants undergo an interview with CBP officers at an Enrollment Center in the U.S. before ﬁnal approval is granted. MileagePlus compensates 2013 Global Services, Premier 1K and Premier Platinum members for the $100 Global Entry™ application fee (for new applications). Customers can verify their eligibility and receive their personalized code by visiting united.com/web/en-US/apps/ mileageplus/globalentry/default.aspx or united.com/premier. Global Entry members who are U.S. citizens or Canadian citizens who are members of NEXUS are also eligible to participate in the TSA Pre program. TSA Pre allows select passengers traveling within the U.S. to qualify for expedited screening through TSA checkpoints at several airports.

For detailed information, go to the CBP site, globalentry.gov.

Expedited Screening Through the U.S. Transportation Security Administration (TSA)

Gainesville Daytona

Tampa/St. Petersburg Corpus Christi

McAllen

Tallahassee

CBP Form I-94 (05/08)

Arrival Record

All travelers entering Guam under the terms of the Guam-CNMI Visa Waiver Program are required to complete an I-94 Arrival/Departure Record (one per person, including infants); an I-736 (one per person, including infants); and a Guam Customs Declaration (one per family). All other travelers need only complete a Guam Customs Declaration. All forms must be completed in English, in capital letters. Be sure to include the street name and number, city and state of your address in Guam. If you are transiting through Guam, you may write TRANSIT and your ﬁnal destination country. The Customs and Border Protection officer will place the I-94 Departure Record in your passport after inspection. Make sure you return the Departure Record to the airline representative before boarding your return ﬂight.

Codeshare/MileagePlus Partner Service

Pensacola

5 U.S.C. § 552a(e)(3) Privacy Act Notice: Information collected on this form is required by Title 8 of the U.S. Code, including the INA (8 U.S.C. 1103, 1187), and 8 CFR 235.1, 264, and 1235.1. The purposes for this collection are to give the terms of admission and document the arrival and departure of nonimmigrant aliens to the U.S. The information solicited on this form may be made available to other government agencies for law enforcement purposes or to assist DHS in determining your admissibility. All nonimmigrant aliens seeking admission to the U.S., unless otherwise exempted, must provide this information. Failure to provide this information may deny you entry to the United States and result in your removal.

Arrivals in Guam

Train Routes

Laredo Route lines reflect flights operated by United Airlines and/or its regional partners. For accurate flight schedules, please see www.united.com. © 2013 United Air Lines, Inc. All Rights Reserved.

100 150

Kahului

Appleton/ Fox Cities

Sioux Falls

Casper Chadron W YO M I N G

Atlantic Time Zone 8:00

N OVA SCOTIA

Manchester Toronto Syracuse M I C H I GA N Albany Midland/ Boston Rochester Ithaca Muskegon Grand Saginaw Sarnia Buffalo/ Hartford/M A S S . Hyannis Sacramento Reno/Tahoe Rock Springs Milwaukee Rapids Niagara Falls Binghamton SpringfieldR.I. Flint I OWA Nantucket C.T. Providence Newburgh London JamestownElmira Scottsbluff Lansing SAN FRANCISCO Madison Salt Lake City Wilkes Barre/ Alliance New Haven Modesto White Detroit Windsor Laramie South Erie Bradford Scranton San Jose Long Island/Islip Vernal Hayden/ Plains NEBRASKA Cedar Mammoth Lakes Cheyenne Bend/Elkhart/ CLEVELAND Williamsport New York (La Guardia) Franklin Rapids/ Mishawaka Omaha Steamboat Fresno N.J. North Platte U TA H (J.F. Kennedy) Des PA Iowa City State Akron/Canton COLORADO Monterey Allentown NEW YORK (NEWARK) Grand Springs Moines Dubois College Visalia OHIO Peoria Junction Vail/Eagle DENVER Ft. Kearney Pittsburgh CA L I F O R N I A Moline Harrisburg Philadelphia Lincoln Moab Wayne Columbus Johnstown Aspen McCook Baltimore Altoona ILLINOIS Inyokern I N D I A NA Morgantown Colorado Springs St. George MARYLAND D E L . San Luis Obispo Montrose Dayton Gunnison/ Bakersfield WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES) Clarksburg Springfield Indianapolis Crested Hays Las Vegas Telluride Parkersburg Shenandoah Salisbury Butte Santa Maria Page/ Cincinnati WV Valley (Reagan National) Cortez Pueblo Durango K A N S A S Kansas City Lake Powell St. Louis Santa Barbara Charlottesville Burbank Huntington Charleston Louisville Alamosa Garden City Lewisburg Richmond Farmington Great Bend LOS ANGELES Long Beach Lexington Beckley Lynchburg Ontario Dodge City Norfolk/Virginia Beach Flagstaff Wichita Orange County Roanoke V I R G I N I A KENTUCKY Newport News/Williamsburg Liberal A R I Z O NA Santa Fe Springfield Carlsbad Tri-Cities Regional Prescott Greensboro/High Point/Winston-Salem Palm Springs Raleigh/Durham NORTH M I S S O U R I Paducah Amarillo Show Low Tulsa San Diego Knoxville CA R O L I NA Albuquerque Nashville Northwest Greenville New Bern Phoenix/Scottsdale Oklahoma City Charlotte Arkansas Asheville Fayetteville/Ft. Bragg TENNESSEE Yuma ARKANSAS Greenville/ Jacksonville OKLAHOMA Spartanburg Chattanooga Memphis Lubbock Little NEW MEXICO Wilmington Tucson Rock Huntsville/ Columbia Florence Myrtle Beach Decatur SOUTH Atlanta CA R O L I NA Hobbs Charleston Dallas/ Augusta Birmingham El Paso Fort Worth Dallas (Love) Hilton Head Island Monroe Midland/ ATLANTIC Montgomery GEORGIA Odessa Jackson Shreveport TEXAS Savannah A L A BA M A OCEAN Tyler Pierre Huron

Riverton

N E VA DA

Item 9 - If you are entering the United States by land, enter LAND in this space. If you are entering the United States by ship, enter SEA in this space.

000000000 00

V T. N.H.

When all items are completed, present this form to the CBP Officer.

Departure Record

Ottawa

Traverse City

CBP offers the Global Entry™ program in order to expedite the processing of pre-approved, low-risk international travelers entering the U.S. Upon returning from travel abroad, Global Entry™–enrolled travelers may bypass the regular passport control line and proceed to the Global Entry™ kiosk. Global Entry™ program participants scan their machine-readable passport, U.S. permanent resident card or U.S. visa on the kiosk, place their fingertips on the scanner for fingerprint verification and make a customs declaration. The kiosk will issue the traveler a transaction receipt and direct the traveler to baggage claim and exit. Kiosks are located at major U.S. airports, as well as at several CBP Pre-Clearance locations.

This form is in two parts. Please complete both the Arrival Record (Items 1 through 17) and the Departure Record (Items 18 through 21).

Admission Number

Moncton

Saint John

Sudbury

Houghton

Duluth

Type or print legibly with pen in ALL CAPITAL LETTERS. Use English. Do not write on the back of this form.

15. City and State

U.S. Customs Declaration

Îles de la Madeleine

Fredericton

City

WISCONSIN

SOUTH Gillette Rapid City DA KO TA

U N I T E D S TAT E S

Presque Isle

O N TA R I O

Bismarck Fargo

Sheridan

Worland Jackson Hole

Chico

Eastern Time Zone 7:00

Williston

Expedited Passport Control and Customs Clearance in the U.S.—Global Entry™

OMB No. 1651-0111

Welcome to the United States I-94 Arrival/Departure Record Instructions This form must be completed by all persons except U.S. Citizens, returning resident aliens, aliens with immigrant visas, and Canadian Citizens visiting or in transit.

14. Address While in the United States (Number and Street)

P R I N C E E DWARD Sydney NEW ISLAND B RU N SW I C K Charlottetown

Saguenay

Glasgow Great Falls

North Bend

Bathurst

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection

12. City Where Visa Was Issued

Gulf Of St. Lawrence

Mont-Joli

Regina Winnipeg

Portland

PACIFIC OCEAN

Gaspe Baie-Comeau

U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) has automated the I-94 Arrival/Departure Record. If needed, travelers can obtain a copy of their I-94 on the Web after inspection by CBP at cbp.gov/I94.

Who is eligible • U.S. citizens who are among select United Airlines MileagePlus members (eligibility is determined by the TSA) • U.S. citizens who are members of a Customs and Border Protection Trusted Traveler Program—Global Entry, NEXUS or SENTRI • Canadian citizens who are members of NEXUS • Passengers 12 and younger are allowed through TSA Pre lanes with eligible passengers TM

ATLANTIC OCEAN

The TSA uses random and unpredictable security measures to determine customer

eligibility for expedited screening on a perflight basis. Therefore, you are not guaranteed expedited screening for every flight even if you have applied to the program. MileagePlus members may participate by joining a CBP Trusted Traveler Program. Visit globalentry.gov to learn more. Approved Global Entry/NEXUS/SENTRI applicants receive a membership/PASS ID number, also called a Known Traveler Number (KTN). Enter the KTN into your MileagePlus profile at united.com/tsaprescreening. United will transmit the KTN to the TSA along with the Secure Flight Passenger Data in your reservation so the TSA can determine your eligibility for TSA Pre . TM

If the TSA determines a passenger is eligible for expedited screening, information will be embedded in the barcode of his or her boarding pass. When the TSA scans the barcode at designated checkpoints, eligible passengers will be directed to an expedited screening lane. Eligible

passengers will also see the TSA Pre logo on their boarding passes issued online, through some kiosks and on mobile boarding passes. If the boarding pass contains the TSA Pre logo (which will be located on the boarding pass near the customer’s name), the passenger can go to TSA Pre lanes. It’s important to note that while the TSA Pre logo will appear on all qualifying boarding passes, not all airports currently offer a TSA Pre lane. TM

Tips for customers using Global Entry/ NEXUS/SENTRI to participate in TSA Pre All customers should ensure they are providing accurate Secure Flight Passenger Data (name, date of birth, gender, optional Known Traveler Number and optional Redress Number) in all reservations. Global Entry/NEXUS/SENTRI members should ensure that this data matches what was used on the CBP application, or they will not be selected to participate. TM

For a list of airports and checkpoints with TSA Pre lanes, or to learn more, go to tsa.gov or united.com/tsaprescreening. TM

George Town

600 Kilometers

0913

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Our Fleet leet

DATE 737-900ER UPDATE United continues es to take delivery of new, more comfortable efficient ft and more fuel-effi cient 737-900ER narrowbody aircr aircraft and has more than 70 of them on order. United currently operates a ﬂeet of over 55 737-900ERs with an average age of less than three years. The 737-900ERs are the perfect complement to United’s 178 737-700, 737-800 and 737-900 aircraft. New 737-900ERs come with the Boeing Sky Interior, which

includes a more spacious cabin design, larger overhead bins, b brighter reading lights and softer LED cabin lighting. The 737-900ERs have fuel-saving winglets and are the most fuel-efficient and environmentally friendly narrowbody aircraft in United’s ﬂeet. The new deliveries will be used to replace older 757-200 aircraft. We look forward to welcoming you aboard a new 737-900ER soon.

Fleet Facts AIRCRAFT

CRUISE SPEED

CAPACITY

PROPULSION

WINGSPAN

747-400

567 mph

374 passengers

Four Pratt & Whitney PW4056 turbofan engines, rated up to 63,300 pounds thrust each

211 ft., 5 in.

777-200/-200ER

550 mph

Between 266 and 348 passengers

Two General Electric GE90 or two Pratt & Whitney PW4077/4090 turbofan engines, rated up to 94,000 pounds thrust each

199 ft., 11 in.

787-8

560 mph

219 passengers

Two General Electric GEnx turbofan engines, rated up to 69,800 pounds thrust each

197 ft., 4 in.

767-300ER/-400ER

540 mph

Between 183 and 242 passengers

Two General Electric CF6-80C2B or Pratt & Whitney PW4060 turbofan engines, rated up to 63,500 pounds thrust each

Up to 170 ft., 4 in.

757-200/-300

540 mph

Between 110 and 213 passengers

Two Rolls-Royce RB211-535 or two Pratt & Whitney PW2037 turbofan engines, rated up to 43,700 pounds thrust each

134 ft., 9 in.

737-700/-800/ -900/-900ER

530 mph

Between 118 and 167 passengers

Two General Electric CFM56 turbofan engines, rated up to 27,100 pounds thrust each

Up to 117 ft., 5 in.

A319/A320

530 mph

Between 120 and 150 passengers

Two IAE V2500-A5 turbofan engines, rated up to 27,000 pounds thrust each

111 ft., 11 in.

p.s.® PREMIUM SERVICE: We’ve started the process of a nose-to-tail refurbishment of our p.s. fleet to offer the international experience on routes serving JFK–LAX and JFK–SFO. The reconfiguration of our p.s. fleet is scheduled to be completed by late 2013. Upgrades include flat-bed seats in United BusinessFirst®, personal on-demand entertainment throughout, and an enhanced menu. BOEING 767 FLEET UPGRADE: The 767 fleet upgrade is nearing completion, with new features like flat-bed seats in United BusinessFirst and personal on-demand entertainment throughout. United offers more 180-degree flat-bed seats than any other carrier in the world. By year end, all flights operated on internationally configured 747s, 757s, 767s, 777s and 787s will offer flat-bed seats.

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INFORMATION

Terminal Diagrams TSA Pre

IAH | HOUSTON GEORGE BUSH INTERCONTINENTAL AIRPORT TERMINAL C United United Express

USO

, Turkish Airlines A D4

Station

A7 C27

TerminaLink Connects Terminals A, B, C, D, & E via train

Station

(Lower Level)

International Arrivals

A17

B25

B27

B18 B17

B26

C34

South Concourse

Gates B12-16 will be available in October

C41

C36

C40

TERMINAL E United United Express

E16

E22

E17

E21

E18

C39

E23

E15 E9

C37

E1 E2

C42

C35

E24

5 C4

Under Construction

B19

B24

B23

B28

B29

(Lower Level) C29

A20

B20

B67 B66 B65 B64 B62A B63A B63

TERMINAL A (South Concourse) US Airways

B21 B22

A18 B31 A19 B30

A24

A27 A26 A25

A30 A29

D1 0 D1 1 D1 2

C14

C23

C15

C22

C16

C21

D6 A

B87 B88

C20

North Concourse

B85A B85 B84A-S

B86A

B86

A2 A1

B79 B77A B77 B76A B76

B79A

Bus Station (A2)

B80 B81A B81 B83A B83

C17

C2 4

A15 A11 A9

A14 A12 A10

C2 6

United Express Air Canada

TERMINAL D United T E RAir M IChina NAL D Avianca United Lufthansa Singapore Airlines

C18 C19

TERMINAL B United Express

D1 D2

TERMINAL A (North Concourse)

E20 E19

EWR | NEW YORK/NEWARK LIBERTY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT TERMINAL A United United Express Air Canada US Airways

TERMINAL C

TERMINAL C United United International Arrivals United Express

28/28A 27/ 27A

TERMINAL B United International Arrivals Lufthansa Scandinavian Airlines Singapore Airlines SWISS TAP Portugal

X 26 A/ /26

A2 25/25A 4A /2 24 23/23A 20/20A

AirTrain

127 128 126 139 125 124 138 123 137 122 136 121 5 120 13 134 3 13 32 1 131 0 13

98 99 97 96 94 95 92 91 80

115 114 112 110 108 104 102

113 111 109 107 105 103 101

81 83 85 87 88

90 72 75

70 71

82 84

(Upper Level)

A1 (Lower Level)

Newark Liberty International Airport Station — Connection with Amtrak and New Jersey Transit

138

p138-140_HEM0913_TerminalDiagrams.indd 138

P1, P2, P3

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ORD | CHICAGO O’HARE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

C40-C50

Train

9 1 3 5 7 9 1 3 5 B5 B6 B6 B6 B6 B6 B7 B7 B7 B77 9

United (international arrivals, except Canadian arrivals), ANA, Asiana Airlines, Austrian Airlines, Avianca, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa, Scandinavian Airlines, SWISS, Turkish Airlines

Concourse C

1 3 5 7 9 1 B8 B8 B8 B8 B8 B9 B93 B95

0 2 4 6 8 0 2 4 B8 B8 B8 B8 B8 B9 B9 B9

TE R M I N A L 5 International

SFO | SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

9 1 3 5 7 9 1 3 5 7 B3 B4 B4 B4 B4 B4 B5 B5 B5 B5

A58-A68

Concourse B Concourse M

2 4 6 8 0 2 4 6 8 0 B4 B4 B4 B4 B5 B5 B5 B5 B5 B6

Pedestrian Bridge

Concourse B United United Express US Airways C28-C39

TERMINAL EAST

Concourse L

TERMINAL WEST

TE R M I N A L 3

Air Canada Lufthansa

C2 C1 C4 C6 C3 C8 C5 E3 C10 C7 E2A C12 C9 E2 C16 C11 E1A C18 B2 B3B4 C15 E1 C18A B1 C17 B5 C20 B6 C22 C19 B7 C24 C21 B8 C26 (Lower Level) C23 C28 C25 B9 C30 B10 C27 C32 TE R M I N A L 2 B11 C29C31 United Express B12 B13 Air Canada TE R M I N A L 1 B14 US Airways B15 United B16 United Express B17 ANA B18 B19 Lufthansa B20 Elevated Airport B22 B21 Transport System

A40-A53

Concourse K

E10

Concourse C

A24-A39

Concourse H

Concourse A

Concourse E

5 7 9 1 3 5 7 9 1 3 5 7 B1 B1 B1 B2 B2 B2 B2 B2 B3 B3 B3 B3

Concourse G

F14 F12 F11 F10 F9 F7 F5 F4 F3 F2 F1

8 0 2 4 6 4 6 6 8 0 2 B1 B1 B2 B2 B2 B2 B2 B3 B3 B3 B3

Concourse F

DEN | DENVER INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

IAD | WASHINGTON DULLES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

TE R M I N A L 2

Under Construction

Gates 40-48

Concourse C

Concourse D

United United Express

Gates 60-67 Train C2-4

78 79

TE R M I N A L 3

68 76

United United Express

80 82 84

88 90

85 89

Shuttle

71 72 73 73A 74 75

(Lower Level)

G92 G94 G96 G98 G91 G100 G102 G93

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • SEPTEMBER 2013

C6-8

C10-14

C5-7

C9-11

Shuttle stop on lower level

32 36

33/37 35 34/38 (37 and 38 on lower level)

I N T E R N AT I O N A L TE R M I N A L Gates A1-A12 United, Air Canada, Air China, G99 Air New Zealand, ANA, Asiana Airlines, Avianca, EVA AIR, Lufthansa, Scandinavian Airlines, Singapore Airlines, SWISS G95 G97

p138-140_HEM0913_TerminalDiagrams.indd 139

C1-3 A2

G101

TE R M I N A L 1 United Express US Airways

C18-26

C28-30

C17-27 A14

A22

A15

A21

Concourse A United Express Avianca Copa Airlines

D2-8

D10-16

D18-26

D28-32

D1-7

D9-11

D15-21

A25

A32

B38-B48

B35-B51 Shuttle Bus

Z Gates US Airways 1-4

MAIN TERMINAL

D23-29

B63-B79

Concourse B ANA Austrian Avianca Brussels Airlines Lufthansa Scandinavian Airlines South African Airways Turkish Airlines

139

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Terminal Diagrams CONT’D

TSA Pre

LAX | LOS ANGELES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

CLE | CLEVELAND HOPKINS INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Concourse C

TE R M I N A L 3

TE R M I N A L 2 Air Canada Air China Air New Zealand Avianca

TE R M I N A L 1 US Airways

C16

C19

C11

C14

C20

8 4B

United United Express Air Canada

C17

C18

71B

70B

75A 74 76

75B

69A 68B 69B TE R M I N A L 6 United Copa Airlines

Fourth Floor

TE R M I N A L 7 United United Express

Third Floor 27

D21 US Airways and some United international ﬂights arrive at Concourse A.

GUM | GUAM INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

Satellite 2

16 15

Satellite 1

19 21 20

57 58

Pier A

Pedestrian Tunnel

Gates Z11-25 A1-42

Pier A/Z

United Aegean Airlines Adria Airways Air Canada Air China ANA Asiana Airlines

TE R M I N A L 1 Austrian Croatia Airlines EGYPTAIR LOT Polish Airlines Lufthansa Scandinavian Airlines Singapore Airlines

TERMINAL 1 United (Chicago, Washington, D.C., San Francisco, Los Angeles) Aegean Airlines Air New Zealand Asiana Airlines Austrian Brussels Airlines Croatia Airlines LOT Polish Airlines Lufthansa South African Airways SWISS TAM TAP Portugal US Airways

TERMINAL 5 (post-security)

Gates C1-C9

Pier D

LHR | LONDON HEATHROW INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

B27 B47 B46 B26 B48 B28 B45 B23 B25 B42 B44 B24 B22 B43 Pier B B1-B41 B10-B20

Gates D1-D54

TE R M I N A L 2

Food Court

(Lower Level)

Sky Line Train

Pier E

Café 4

FRA | FRANKFURT INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Gates E1-E26

MAIN TERMINAL United

Security Checkpoint

North Wing

Asiana Airlines 54 Austrian EGYPTAIR 55 Lufthansa 56 Scandinavian Airlines Singapore Airlines SWISS THAI Turkish Airlines

Concourse D United Express

D17

51 53

Terminals M, B and A

D7 D9 D8

South Wing

Air New Zealand

D10

D3 D2

TERMINAL 1 United Air Canada Air China ANA

(Lower Level) Underground Tunnel

C27

D28

TE R M I N A L 8 United United Express

24 25

32 46

(Lower Level)

D25

NRT | TOKYO NARITA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT 37

C25

D12 D11 D14

80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88

71A

67A

D4 D6 D5

67B

C26

60 62 64 66 68A

C2 C5

C29 C24

61 63 65

43 42 44

C10

C23

TO M B R A D L E Y I N T E R N A T I O N A L TE R M I N A L ANA, Asiana Airlines, EVA AIR, Lufthansa, Singapore Airlines, SWISS, THAI, Turkish Airlines

TE R M I N A L 5

C21 C22

TE R M I N A L 4

A/Z Gates 50-69 TERMINAL 5

South African Airways Spanair SWISS TAM TAP Portugal THAI Turkish Airlines US Airways

TERMINAL 3 Air Canada Air China ANA EGYPTAIR Scandinavian Airlines Singapore Airlines THAI Turkish Airlines

Transfer Shuttle (pre-security)

TERMINAL 4 United (Newark, Houston) Gates 1-25

Secureside and non-secureside buses serve all terminals

140

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Two global travel leaders, one great experience United MileagePlus® and Marriott Rewards® are excited to introduce RewardsPlus — a new way to recognize your loyalty. RewardsPlus gives you even more value for your miles and points, as well as complimentary access to MileagePlus Premier® and Marriott Rewards Elite status for select members, making every part of your travel experience more rewarding.

For more information visit united.com/rewardsplus.

JW Marriott® Panama Golf & Beach Resort

Miles accrued, awards, and benefits issued are subject to change and are subject to the rules of the United MileagePlus program, including without limitation the Premier® program (the “MileagePlus Program”), which are expressly incorporated herein. United may change the MileagePlus Program including, but not limited to, rules, regulations, travel awards and special offers or terminate the MileagePlus Program at any time and without notice. United and its subsidiaries, affiliates and agents are not responsible for any products or services of other participating companies and partners. United and MileagePlus are registered service marks. For complete details about the MileagePlus Program, go to www.united.com.

No.00000 MP New RewardsPlus 1pp.indd 1

02/08/2013 09:18

INFORMATION

MAKING YOUR CONNECTING FLIGHT Whether your next ﬂight is on United or one of its Star Alliance partners around the world, you can use the terminal diagrams on pages 138-140 to plan your connection. In addition to gate locations, these maps show ticket counters and interterminal transportation.

Safety & Travel Assistance SAFETY INFORMATION NEED TO KNOW Customer safety is our primary concern. Our ﬂight attendants are trained thoroughly in all safety procedures. But as expert as they are, in the event of an emergency they need help from you, the customer. You should be aware of the following:

NEVER PERMITTED The Federal Aviation Administration and the Transportation Security Administration prohibit hazardous materials in either checked or carry-on baggage. Substantial ﬁnes can be imposed for violations.

EXIT Location of the nearest emergency exit

The correct procedure for exiting the cabin in an emergency

Where your oxygen mask will appear, how to start the oxygen ﬂow and how to use the mask

Please look carefully at the safety information card located in the seat pocket in front of you

Liquid and solid explosives

Flammable gases and compressed gas

Radioactive and magnetic materials, corrosive and oxidizing agents

Poisons

Smoking is not permitted. Federal law imposes ﬁnes of $1,000 for smoking and up to $2,200 for any attempt to disable an aircraft’s smoke detectors. We prohibit the use of electronic simulated smoking devices (cigarettes, pipes, cigars, etc.) on our ﬂights.

It is a violation of federal regulations to drink alcoholic beverages during a ﬂight unless they are served by our personnel. Also, airlines are forbidden to serve alcoholic beverages to anyone who appears to be intoxicated.

Travel assistance for delayed or canceled flights At United, our priority is safety and keeping an on-time schedule. On occasion, canceling or delaying a flight is the only option to ensure we maintain the highest safety standards. Flight interruption? We will confirm you on the next United flight with available seats. Kiosks located in the concourse will assist you with information and a boarding pass, and will also help you stand by for an earlier United flight if one is scheduled. If you want to travel standby and aren’t boarded, we will transfer your name to the next United flight to your destination until you are onboard.

you with a hotel and meal voucher. For uncontrollable events—such as weather—we may be able to help you locate a local hotel at a discounted rate; however, United does not cover hotel or meal expenses in this event. If we cannot retrieve your checked bag, overnight kits containing toiletries are available. Please see an agent. What if the reason for my travel no longer exists? If as a result of the delay or cancellation you opt not to travel, call United reservations (1-800-UNITED-1) to learn about your options.

What about my bag? Baggage is boarded on the next ﬂight if space is available, which means your bags may arrive before you. If so, United will secure the bag until you claim it. See a baggage claim representative.

Help us help you stay informed. Sign up for Trip Alert, our messaging service that informs you if your ﬂight is canceled or delayed, at united.com. At home? Go to united.com for information or to check in and print your boarding pass.

What if I have to stay overnight? If a ﬂight is canceled to address a mechanical issue or a similar issue within our control, we will provide

Your safety and satisfaction are important to us. We appreciate your business and apologize for any inconvenience you may have experienced.

Staying Fit IN-FLIGHT FLEXIBILITY Knee Flexion: Lift knee toward chest, decreasing the amount of joint space at the back of the knee. Repeat with other leg.

Dorsiﬂexion: With heel on ﬂoor, point toes upward, decreasing the angle between the foot and the front of the leg. Repeat with other foot.

Eversion: With foot on ﬂoor, gently roll the sole of the foot inward. Repeat with other foot.

Knee Extension: Straighten knee, increasing the amount of joint space at the back of the knee to its full range. Repeat with other leg.

Plantar Flexion: Lift heel and keep toes pointed toward the ﬂoor, increasing the angle between the top of the foot and the front of the leg. Repeat with other foot.

Inversion: With foot on ﬂoor, gently roll the sole of the foot outward. Repeat with other foot.

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CUSTOMER CARE We are committed to providing quality service, and we want to hear about your travel experience with us. In addition, if you think a certain employee or an action taken on your behalf deserves special recognition, please let us know. Please give us your comments at united.com/feedback.

Rechargeable batteries have a risk of overload or ﬁre when not stored properly. Rechargeable batteries should be stored in their electronic devices or properly protected to avoid contact with metal or other batteries during ﬂight.

ELECTRONIC DEVICES STAGE OF FLIGHT

DEVICES PERMITTED

DEPARTURE: at gate, only when cabin door is open ARRIVAL: taxiing to gate area

Mobile phones and two-way pagers

PDAs and other electronic devices

MUST BE TURNED OFF: during taxi, takeoff and landing

IN FLIGHT: above 10,000 feet in altitude

Noise-canceling headphones

GPS devices

ON GROUND: when main cabin door is open

Calculators

Cameras

Shavers

Personal computers*

Entertainment players and recorders (audio and/or video, such as iPods; e-readers; tape/ CD/MiniDisc/MP3/ DVD players; and camcorders)*

Electronic games*

* must be used with sound off or with headsets at all times

Aircraft power ports for laptops MUST BE TURNED OFF: during taxi, takeoff and landing

NEVER PERMITTED TVs

Radio receivers and/or transmitters (including AM/FM/SW, CB and scanners)

ONBOARD PHOTO AND VIDEO POLICY United Airlines strives to provide customers with a safe and pleasant travel experience. The use of any device for photography or audio and/or video recording is permitted only for capturing personal events. Any photography or recording of other customers or airline personnel without their express prior consent is strictly prohibited. Any photography (still or video) or recording (audio or video) of airline procedures or aircraft equipment is strictly prohibited, except to the extent prior approval has been speciﬁcally granted by United Airlines. This policy is not a contract and does not create any legal rights or obligations.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • SEPTEMBER 2013

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Remote-control toys and personal air puriﬁers

Advanced mobile phones, PDAs and other personal electronic devices with wireless capabilities may be used in flight when switched to “airplane” mode. A visible airplanedisabled mode should be identifiable and shown to a crew member upon request. Flight attendants will notify mobile phone and two-way pager users when it is safe to begin placing or receiving phone calls or pages after landing. One-way pagers may be used to receive messages at any time. PLEASE NOTE Customers may always use any medically prescribed physiological instrument, such as a hearing aid or a pacemaker. On aircraft equipped with in-ear headphones, customers with hearing-assistance devices may request a different headset from a flight attendant. Passengers are allowed to use non-battery-operated headphones during taxi, takeoff and landing. The in-seat power system may be used only above 10,000 feet, when other approved personal electronic devices are permitted. Use of the system is at your own risk. Do not remove batteries. We are not responsible for loss of data or damage to computer hardware or software.

PLEASE NOTE United strictly prohibits the modiﬁcation or use of any object or device to alter or limit the functionality, permanently or temporarily, of any aircraft structure, seat assembly, tray table, etc. If you see a customer using any such device or object, please inform United personnel immediately.

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INFORMATION

MileagePlus THE WORLD’S MOST REWARDING LOYALTY PROGRAMSM

RewardsPlus: Two global travel leaders, one great experience Announcing RewardsPlus MileagePlus® and Marriott Rewards are joining together to introduce RewardsPlus, a new way to recognize your loyalty. Get more value for your miles and points, as well as complimentary Marriott Rewards Elite status for select members. For more information, go to united.com/rewardsplus.

JW Marriott® Panama Golf & Beach Resort

MileagePlus Premier® program beneﬁts overview MileagePlus features different status levels — each with its own thresholds for qualifying miles and segments. Go to united.com/premier for details. Below is a sample of current MileagePlus Premier beneﬁts. Big perks for small businesses Join the MileagePlus Small Business Network and make every investment in your business a rewarding one. Earn miles for purchases with partners like UPS®, Staples.com and Dell Small Business, and for your sales through Chase Paymentech. To learn more, go to mileageplus.com/smallbusiness. Just the ticket Earn miles and save up to 60% on the year’s biggest sports, concert and theater events with our newest partner, ScoreBig.com. Find tickets below the box office price, guaranteed, and earn 5 miles per $1 spent. Go to ScoreBig.com/united for more information. To explore all the ways you can earn miles with MileagePlus, go to united.com/earnmiles.

MileagePlus Premier member beneﬁts Premier bonus award miles Complimentary Premier Upgrades conﬁrmation (as early as)

Premier Silver

Premier Gold

Premier Platinum

Premier 1K

25%

50%

75%

100%

Day of departure

48 hours

72 hours

96 hours

At check-in

At booking

Instant upgrades on select full-fare economy tickets Premier AccessSM priority airport services Unrestricted access to Standard Awards Complimentary access to preferred seating in economy class (Economy Plus®) Lounge access when traveling internationally Compensation for Global Entry application fee Regional Premier Upgrades eligibility Global Premier Upgrades eligibility

*Miles accrued, awards and beneﬁts issued are subject to change and are subject to the rules of the United MileagePlus program, including, without limitation, the Premier® program (the “MileagePlus Program”), which are expressly incorporated herein. United may change the MileagePlus Program including, but not limited to, rules, regulations, travel awards and special offers or terminate the MileagePlus Program at any time and without notice. United and its subsidiaries, affiliates and agents are not responsible for any products or services of other participating companies and partners. United and MileagePlus are registered service marks. For complete details about the MileagePlus Program, go to united.com.

Global Traveler, GT Tested Awards, 2012 Best Frequent-Flyer Program, ninth consecutive year as voted by the readers of Global Traveler magazine. www.globaltravelerusa.com UPS, the UPS brandmark and the color brown are trademarks of United Parcel Service of America, Inc.

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Fundamentals of Photography

off

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lecture titles

IM ED T E OF IT

LIM

Taught by Joel Sartore, Professional Photographer national geographic magazine

BY O C TO

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24.

Making Great Pictures Camera Equipment—What You Need Lenses and Focal Length Shutter Speeds Aperture and Depth of Field Light I—Found or Ambient Light Light II—Color and Intensity Light III—Introduced Light Composition I—Seeing Well Composition II—Background and Perspective Composition III—Framing and Layering Let’s Go to Work—Landscapes Let’s Go to Work—Wildlife Let’s Go to Work—People and Relationships Let’s Go to Work—From Mundane to Extraordinary Let’s Go to Work—Special Occasions Let’s Go to Work—Family Vacations Advanced Topics—Research and Preparation Advanced Topics—Macro Photography Advanced Topics—Low Light Advanced Topics—Problem Solving After the Snap—Workﬂow and Organization Editing—Choosing the Right Image Telling a Story with Pictures—The Photo Essay

Learn the Inside Secrets of Professional Photographers Photographs can preserve cherished memories, reveal the beauty of life, and even change the world. Yet most of us point and shoot without really being aware of what we’re seeing or how we could take our photo from good to great. Just imagine the images you could create if you trained yourself to “see” as the professionals do. With Fundamentals of Photography, you’ll learn everything you need to know about the art of taking unforgettable pictures straight from National Geographic contributing photographer Joel Sartore—a professional with over 30 years of experience. Whatever your skill level, these 24 engaging lectures allow you to hone your photographer’s eye, take full advantage of your camera’s features, and capture magical moments in any situation or setting imaginable.

Offer expires 10/11/13

1-800-832-2412 www.thegreatcourses.com/6uh

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Fundamentals of Photography Course no. 7901 | 24 lectures (30 minutes/lecture)

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Designed to meet the demand for lifelong learning, The Great Courses is a highly popular series of audio and video lectures led by top professors and experts. Each of our more than 400 courses is an intellectually engaging experience that will change how you think about the world. Since 1990, over 10 million courses have been sold.

07/08/2013 14:21

Alliances & Partnerships

GLOBAL REACH. WORLDWIDE RECOGNITION. EXCELLENT TRAVEL SERVICES. United and Star Alliance member airlines provide seamless air travel around the world. Star Alliance is the world’s largest global airline alliance, with more than 21,900 daily flights departing to 1,328 destinations. Customers have access to a comprehensive global network, frequent-flyer travel benefits and worldwide lounge access on all Star Alliance member airlines.

Star Alliance Member Airlines

The Star Alliance network Established in 1997 as the first truly global airline alliance to offer customers a worldwide travel network, Star Alliance aims to provide customers with a seamless travel experience across multiple airlines. Today, the Star Alliance network offers more than 21,900 daily flights to 1,328 destinations in 195 countries. Earn miles and status faster With the largest airline alliance, you can earn MileagePlus award miles almost anywhere in the world you fly. Miles can be earned on most fares on almost any Star Alliance flight and can be credited to your account. Plus, the flight miles will count toward Premier® status. Earn recognition around the world The more that you fly with United and the Star Alliance airlines, the higher your status can be. MileagePlus Premier status is recognized across the alliance as either Star Alliance Silver or Star Alliance Gold, with travel benefits worldwide. Go to united.com/staralliance for the Star Alliance Silver and Gold status benefits you can receive. Award travel is now easier With Star Alliance Awards, you can use your MileagePlus award miles for award travel on any Star Alliance carrier worldwide. Or, use them for Star Alliance Upgrade Awards and upgrade to a premium cabin for maximum comfort (available on most Star Alliance airlines).

Other Airline Partners You can earn and redeem award miles on many of our other airline partners. See united.com/airlinepartners for speciﬁc information about each of our other airline partners. • Aer Lingus • Aeromar • Amtrak • Cape Air

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• Great Lakes • Hawaiian Airlines • Island Air

• Jet Airways • Silver Airways

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Star Alliance iPad App lets me plan routes, check my flight status and visualise my journeys around the world. So now Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m always linked in to every detail of my trip.

Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve earned it.

Nicole German, Head of Marketing for LinkedIn Canada and Latin America, and Star Alliance Gold Status.

Star Alliance Navigator App for iPad

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02/08/2013 09:19

Chef’s Corner Oven-roasted Beef Brisket Yields 6 servings

Gerry Gulli is an Executive Chef for United who combines his love of food with his interest in aviation. He has been widely recognized for his creativity in designing menus with broad international and regional appeal during his more than 25 years of culinary experience. After receiving his culinary degree, Chef Gulli apprenticed at Chicago’s Ritz Carlton, Drake, and Palmer House hotels.

Chef’s Tip Serve with your favorite macaroni and

Ingredients 4 pound beef brisket, trimmed of fat ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper 1 tablespoon celery salt 2 tablespoons chili powder 1 tablespoon garlic powder 2 teaspoons ground dry mustard 1 tablespoon onion powder ½ teaspoon ground thyme 1 tablespoon granulated sugar 2 tablespoons kosher salt 1 tablespoon black pepper 4 tablespoons liquid smoke 8 cups low sodium beef stock Directions

1. Preheat oven to 375˚F 2. Make a dry rub for the brisket by combining together cayenne pepper, celery salt, chili powder, garlic powder, dry mustard, onion powder, thyme, sugar, salt and pepper 3. Generously rub the brisket with the dry ingredients on all sides

4. Place brisket in a large roasting pan and roast for 1 hour 5. Combine the liquid smoke and beef stock in a large pot and bring to a boil 6. Remove brisket from the oven and pour the warmed stock into the roasting pan 7. Lower the heat to 350˚F 8. Cover the roasting pan with foil and return to the oven 9. Continue to roast until fork tender, approximately 3 hours 10. Remove brisket from oven 11. After resting the brisket for 15-20 minutes, slice thinly across the grain 12. Reduce and thicken the stock to make a gravy or serve with your favorite barbecue sauce

cheese recipe. You may also view the chef’s recipes by visiting hemispheresmagazine.com and downloading the App.

CH EER S !

Courtesy of Doug Frost, Master Sommelier and Master of Wine

Estancia Reserve Meritage 2009 Paso Robles | Estancia’s top bottling is powerful stuff: lots of vanilla and black pepper as well as black fruits and a good bit of length. This Cabernet Sauvignon blend would pair well against the richness of the brisket.

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ALL DAY ON MOST NORTH AMERICA AND LATIN AMERICA FLIGHTS OVER 2 HOURS. ALL FLIGHTS ACCEPT CREDIT/DEBIT CARDS ONLY.

PRINGLES ® ORIGINAL POTATO CRISPS $2.99 NATURE VALLEY® OATS N’ HONEY GRANOLA BARS $2.99 WILD GARDEN® HUMMUS DIP & MULTI GRAIN PITA CHIPS $3.99

STARBURST® ORIGINAL FRUIT CHEWS $2.99 M&M’S ® ALMOND CHOCOLATE CANDIES $2.69 CHEX MIX ® $2.99

A portion of the proceeds from the Choice Menu program will go to organizations that provide nutrition education and food security in underserved communities. For more information visit united.com/eatforgood.

snackboxes ALL DAY ON MOST FLIGHTS OVER 2 HOURS

TAPAS

$8.59

CLASSIC

$7.49

SAVORY

$7.49

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breakfast ON MOST MORNING FLIGHTS DEPARTING AFTER 5:45 AM AND BEFORE 9:45 AM

INTRODUCING MORNING ENERGY SELECTION $6.99 Hard-cooked egg, cheese, grapes, wheat roll and almond butter HAM & SWISS BAGUETTE $8.99 Pretzel baguette with ham, hard-cooked egg and Swiss cheese with light mayonnaise on the side SWEET CHEESE PASTRY $4.99 Sweet cheese-filled pretzel pastry May be served warm on select aircraft

Available for purchase on flights over 3.5 hours within North America and to Latin America. All flights accept credit/debit cards only.

QUENCH YOUR THIRST with a

Bacardi ® Coke® and

for $7

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Select Markets THESE WARM MEALS ARE AVAILABLE ON FLIGHTS BETWEEN HAWAII AND CHICAGO, HOUSTON, NEWARK AND WASHINGTON

breakfast ke ts

ON MOST MORNING FLIGHTS DEPARTING BEFORE 9:15 AM

ar tm c e sel d in e v Ser

BISTRO SCRAMBLE $9.99 Scrambled eggs with potatoes, ham, bell peppers and cheddar cheese

lunch & dinner

ON MOST AFTERNOON AND EVENING FLIGHTS DEPARTING BETWEEN 9:45 AM AND 8:00 PM

ON MOST AFTERNOON AND EVENING FLIGHTS DEPARTING AFTER 9:15 AM

ARTISAN CHEESE SELECTION $7.99 Three cheese selection with crackers, fruit spread, grapes and chocolate

CHICKEN STIR FRY $9.99 Stir-fried chicken breast, zucchini, carrots and green onion over steamed rice

ASIAN-STYLE NOODLE SALAD $8.49 Grilled chicken breast, vegetable julienne and udon noodles with sesame ginger dressing and green onion CAPRESE BAGUETTE $8.99 Multi-grain baguette with tomato, mozzarella cheese, basil and pesto spread

This meal is served on lunch/dinner flights instead of the Roast Beef & Cheddar Baguette

Latin America

BLT WRAP $8.99 Tortilla filled with bacon, lettuce, tomato and light mayonnaise

DEPARTING CARIBBEAN, CENTRAL AMERICA AND MEXICO

ROAST BEEF & CHEDDAR BAGUETTE $8.99 Asiago baguette with roast beef, cheddar cheese and creamy horseradish sauce

breakfast

May be served warm on select aircraft

Vegetarian Option Products may contain allergens such as dairy, tree nuts, sesame, wheat and soy (see product label).

ON MOST MORNING FLIGHTS DEPARTING AFTER 5:45 AM AND BEFORE 9:45 AM

BREAKFAST SANDWICH $5.99 Egg, grilled ham and cheese sandwich served with fresh fruit May be served warm on select aircraft

lunch & dinner ON MOST AFTERNOON AND EVENING FLIGHTS DEPARTING BETWEEN 9:45 AM AND 8:00 PM

CHICKEN WRAP $8.59 Chicken breast and vegetables wrapped in a tortilla with Thai aioli sauce HAM & SWISS SANDWICH $7.99 Ham and Swiss cheese on a pretzel roll served with mayonnaise and mustard Fresh selections may vary due to product availability

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beverages NON -A L C OHOL IC Complimentary and available on most flights. Coca-Cola,® Coke Zero,® Diet Coke® Mr. & Mrs. T’s® Bloody Mary Mix Sprite,® Sprite Zero® Seagram’s®: Ginger Ale, Minute Maid®: Apple Juice, Seltzer Water, Tonic Water Cranberry Apple Juice Cocktail, Orange Juice Freshbrew® Kova Coffee Mott’s® Tomato Juice Decaffeinated Coffee Dasani™ Bottled Water Hot Tea J

AVAIL ABLE ON SELECT ROUTES

Cappuccino, Espresso and Specialty Regional Teas A L C OHOL IC Alcoholic beverages are available on most flights. Complimentary in premium cabins. Priced as shown in economy cabin. Beer and wine are complimentary in economy on trans-Pacific international flights and on flights within Asia and Micronesia. Sake is also complimentary on trans-Pacific international flights to/from Japan. SP E C I A LT Y C O C K TA I L MOST NORTH AMERICA FLIGHTS E XCEPT HAWAII

Salvador’s® Margarita $7 MOST U. S. MAINL AND FLIGHTS TO/FROM HAWAII

Trader Vic’s® Mai Tai $9 BEER $6 Budweiser,® Miller® Lite, Heineken® WINES (187ml) $7 House Red and White INTERNATIONAL & MOST FLIGHTS TO/FROM HAWAII Not available on intra-Pacific flights

Sparkling Wine PREMIUM WINE (375ml) $15.99 Beverage vouchers may not be used to obtain premium wines

AVAILABLE IN ECONOMY CABINS JFK TO/FROM LA X AND SFO J

Meiomi Pinot Noir, Napa Valley, California St. Supery Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, California

SPIRITS $7 Tito’s Handmade VODKA® Bacardi® Superior Rum Bombay Sapphire® Dry Gin Jim Beam Black® Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey J

LIQUEURS & COGNAC $7 Courvoisier® VSOP Fine Champagne Cognac J

Dewar’s® “White Label®” Blended Scotch Whisky Jack Daniel’s® Tennessee Whiskey Canadian Club® Whisky

Baileys® Irish Cream

MOST INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS J

Grand Marnier® DISARONNO® Amaretto*

Crown Royal® Canadian Whisky

*Also domestic premium cabins Alcohol may be served to customers over 21 only. Menu and beverage options may vary by flight. We apologize if your preferred choice is not available. We are proud to recycle aluminum cans, newspapers, and plastic bottles on eligible flights.

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