United Airlines Hemispheres Magazine July 2015 by Ahmed Aamir

JULY 2015

Hemispheres JULY 2015

T H R E E P E R F E C T D AY S O S L O • T H E H E M I Q & A W I T H A N T H O N Y B O U R DA I N

THREE PERFECT DAYS OSLO THE NORTH’S RISING STAR

THE HEMI Q&A ANTHONY BOURDAIN NEVER BITES HIS TONGUE THE THRILL’S NOT GONE KEEPING THE BLUES ALIVE IN MISSISSIPPI PORTEÑO PIZZA GRABBING A SLICE IN BUENOS AIRES

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HOW CAN YOU EXPLAIN THE UNEXPLAINABLE?

LIVE IT TO BELIEVE IT

LIKE FINDING AN 18TH CENTURY CASTLE IN THE MIDDLE OF A MODERN CITY

MEXICO IS THE HOST OF E:MBG :F>KB<: L 50 BEST RESTAURANTS IN 2015 AND 2016

CHAPULTEPEC CASTLE, MEXIC MEXICO C CITY

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contents

YOUR COMPLIMENTARY ISSUE

DISPATCHES 17 Weaving gold inside the Wellendorff factory; a Tyrannosaurus retires in Los Angeles; Tel Aviv’s bus station bat cave; role-players invade the English countryside; how to shrug like the French

JULY 2015

BRIGHT IDEAS 50 HOW IT’S DONE A house that changes shape with the seasons 51 INDUSTRY

How money-saving items have become luxury goods

FEATURES HEMI CULTURE

56 THREE PERFECT

23 TASTEMAKERS

DAYS: OSLO

Chefs take a tip from bartenders and cook with bitters; the pizza styles of Buenos Aires; Brooklyn Brewery goes Swedish; rock candy cocktails

In the Norwegian capital, nature and culture compete for your attention, and everyone wins 66 AT THE CROSSROADS

31 STAY

Do the Delta blues still matter in Mississippi?

This month’s hottest hotels, from Paris to Las Vegas

74 THE HEMI Q&A: ANTHONY BOURDAIN

34 THE FAN

Randy Johnson and Pedro Martínez illustrate baseball’s delightful contrasts

The author, TV host and celebrity chef on his favorite places to visit, the problems with culinary fame and more

36 LOCAL LOOK

Mexico City style 39 TRAVEL ESSAY

Vacations have become work

BRYAN TARNOWSKI; ANÍBAL BARCO (DOG)

45 THE MONTH AHEAD

Portraits of Audrey Hepburn; Plácido Domingo can still sing it; Jimmy Carter’s memoir; three cover albums, including one from Natalie Imbruglia; which Dr. Seuss creation would make the best pet?; Miranda Sings on what it takes to be an Internet celebrity; Denis Leary rocks out

“THE BLUES WILL BE HERE. THE REST OF THAT STUFF GO AND COME, BUT THE BLUES? IT’S ALWAYS BEEN HERE AND IT ALWAYS WILL.” —ROBERT “BILBO” WALKER

10 CEO Letter A word from Jeff Smisek

• 12 Voices A message to flyers • 14 Connections What’s new at United

ENTERTAINMENT AND INFORMATION 91 T TRAVEL INFO Fleet, Terminal Diagrams, Customs & Immigration, Safety, Star Alliance, Route Maps and MileagePlus 103 CROSSWORD AND SUDOKU 107 ENTERTAINMENT Movies, Television, Personal Device Entertainment, Inflight Wi-Fi and Audio Programming 118 FOOD AND BEVERAGES Chef ’s Corner, Choice Menu Page 36

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contributors

EDITOR IN CHIEF JORDAN HELLER EXECUTIVE EDITOR CHRIS WRIGHT MANAGING EDITOR JUSTIN GOLDMAN SENIOR EDITOR NICHOLAS DERENZO ASSOCIATE EDITOR ERIN BRADY ART DIRECTOR TRACY TOSCANO PHOTO DIRECTOR JESSIE ADLER

ERIC BENSON is an Austin-based journalist who covers sports, crime, movies and the U.S.-Mexico border for publications including Texas Monthly, Grantland and Men’s Fitness. On page 66, he writes “At the Crossroads,” about visiting the city of Clarksdale, Mississippi, where a homegrown festival and a generation of elderly yet vigorous musicians are fueling a Delta blues renaissance.

PHILIP BURKE is an illustrator whose work has been published by more than 300 periodicals in the U.S. and around the world over the past 38 years. From 1989 to 1995, his paintings appeared on the contents page of Rolling Stone, and from 1995 to 2010, his work ran monthly on the cover of the New York Observer. On page 74, he portrays this month’s Hemi Q&A subject, Anthony Bourdain.

GET CONNECTED

JENNY ADAMS is a writer and photographer who resides in Manhattan when it’s warm and Bangkok when it’s not. Her writing and images have appeared in over 50 publications, and she covers cocktails and travel for Travel & Leisure, National Geographic Traveler and Imbibe. On page 28, she writes and shoots “Rock Candy Crush,” about the revival of saloon-style cocktails infused with rock candy.

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THREE PERFECT DAYS OSLO

THE NORTH’S RISING STAR

THE HEMI Q&A ANTHONY BOURDAIN NEVER BITES HIS TONGUE THE THRILL’S NOT GONE KEEPING THE BLUES ALIVE IN MISSISSIPPI

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editorial@hemispheresmagazine.com ABOUT THE COVER

The Oslo Opera House, which was designed by Snøhetta and opened in the city’s Bjørvika neighborhood in 2008. Photography by Hemis/Alamy.

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DESIGN DIRECTOR CHRISTOS HANNIDES

JULY 2015

PORTEÑO PIZZA GRABBING A SLICE IN BUENOS AIRES

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS ERIC BENSON, JOE DELESSIO, BOYD FARROW, STEVE FRIESS, JOE LEMIRE, SARA LIEBERMAN, ADAM K. RAYMOND, CRISTINA ROUVALIS CONTRIBUTING ARTISTS BARRY BRUNER, PHILIP BURKE, MICHAEL BYERS, CHRISTIAN NORTHEAST, LUCI GUTIÉRREZ, JOEL HOLLAND, PJ LOUGHLIN, JAMESON SIMPSON

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INK CHIEF EXECUTIVES MICHAEL KEATING, SIMON LESLIE CFO JIM CAMPBELL HEMISPHERES is produced monthly by Ink. All material is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in whole or part without the prior written permission of the copyright holder. All prices and data are correct at the time of publication. Opinions expressed in Hemispheres are not necessarily those of the Publisher or United Airlines, and United Airlines does not accept any responsibility for advertising content. Neither United, its subsidiaries nor afﬁliates guarantees the accuracy, completeness or timeliness of, or otherwise endorses these facts, views, opinions or recommendations, gives investment advice, or advocates the purchase or sale of any security or investment. You should always seek the assistance of a professional for tax and investment advice. Any images are supplied at the owner’s risk. Any mention of United Airlines or the use of United Airlines logo by any advertiser in this publication does not imply endorsement of that company or its products or services by United Airlines.

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Getting Social with Hemispheres Hey, reader, want to see your face in Hemispheres? So do we. So, please post a pic of yourself with the magazine to social media (Twitter, Instagram or Facebook) with the hashtag #hemigram. We’ll pick our favorites and publish them here each month. And if you tweet your pics to @united, you will likely find yourself favorited and retweeted by your favorite airline. —THE EDITORS

@annie_rabe The Washington memorial as we come in to land. #airplane #Washington #mrsrabe goestowashington #usa #MSJDN #homefrontrising #advocate #unitedairlines #hemigram

@MichaelOnMedia Good article in #hemigram @CityofHouston #MeltingPot Can’t wait to try @UnderbellyHOU

@thelivingyingyang The beginning of my journey on my new endeavor!!! #hemigram #life #journey #takechances #miumiu #wishmeblessings

@ambernztravel En route from LAX to KOA on @united. #hemigram #friendlyskies #Boeing #united

@AndreaRatkovic #hemigram flying back from trip to Panama. Next trip Nicaragua! Thanks United and Hemispheres for wonderful journeys

@DJO_ZoNe Sitting here on my way to Chicago enjoying this awesome issue of @hemispheresmag #hemigram

@Priyesh426 My girls on their flight #hemigram @united

@oholleran Great day for a flight #united #hemigram

@milalein We just landed in the second highest airport in the world #hemigram #ecuador #quito #united #business #birthdaytrip #travelingwithTata #united #business #ﬁrstclass

@chinatownduckie Folding origami flowers onboard for the United flight attendants in appreciation for their great service! #hemigram

@denahoney I need another Central America destination for 2015! Nicaragua is looking good #hemigram

@niskis_bg Goodbye #newyork! #hemigram hope to come back to one of my fav cities in the world @hemispheresmag @united

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JULY 2015 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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re New York and Washington, D.C., drifting apart? Or is the U.S. air traffic control system in desperate need of modernization? When I first started in the airline business 20 years ago, the scheduled time for our flights between our Newark/New York hub and Washington National Airport was about an hour. Today, many of those flights are scheduled for about an hour and a half. I’m pretty sure that the tectonic plates haven’t caused the cities to drift 50 percent farther apart during that time. Instead, our nation’s air traffic control system, which relies on World War II– era ground-based radar technology, has become increasingly inefficient. That means you as customers must spend more time on the ground and in the air while traveling the same distances as you did before, and we as airlines must incur higher operating costs and burn more fuel simply to get from point A to point B. This antiquated and inefficient system, while safe, threatens the primacy of U.S. aviation. A long string of reports from presidentially appointed aviation commissions, the Department of Transportation Inspector General, the Government Accountability Office and independent private sector experts indicates that the Federal Aviation Administration’s air traffic control modernization efforts have been plagued by significant cost overruns and delays and calls into question the ability of the FAA, under its current funding and governance structure, to deliver a modern, efficient air traffic control

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Manchester Toronto Syracuse Albany Midland/ Boston Rochester Sioux N E VA DA Casper Chadron Ithaca Muskegon Grand Saginaw Sarnia Buffalo/ Falls Hartford/ M A S S . Hyannis Sacramento Reno/Tahoe Rock Springs W YO M I N G Milwaukee Rapids Flint Niagara Falls Binghamton SpringfieldR.I. Nantucket I OWA Elmira C.T. Providence London Scottsbluff Lansing SAN FRANCISCO Madison Salt Lake City Wilkes Barre/ Alliance White Detroit Windsor Laramie South Scranton Erie San Jose Plains NEBRASKA Cedar Mammoth Lakes Cheyenne Bend/Elkhart/ Cleveland Hayden/ New York (La Guardia) Rapids/ Mishawaka Omaha Steamboat Fresno N.J. North Platte U TA H (J.F. Kennedy) State PA Des Iowa City Akron/Canton Monterey COLORADO Allentown NEW YORK (NEWARK) Grand Springs Moines Dubois College Visalia OHIO Peoria Junction Vail/Eagle DENVER Ft. Philadelphia Kearney Pittsburgh Moline CA L I F O R N I A Harrisburg Lincoln Wayne Aspen McCook Columbus Johnstown MD ILLINOIS I N D I A NA Morgantown Colorado Springs St. George Baltimore D E L . San Luis Obispo Montrose Dayton Gunnison/ Bakersfield Clarksburg WASHINGTON, DC (DULLES) Springfield Indianapolis Crested Hays Las Vegas Parkersburg Shenandoah Butte Santa Maria Page/ Cincinnati (Reagan National) WV Valley Cortez Pueblo Durango Kansas City KANSAS Lake Powell St. Louis Santa Barbara Charlottesville Burbank Charleston Louisville Alamosa Lewisburg Richmond Farmington LOS ANGELES Evansville Lexington Ontario Dodge City Norfolk/Virginia Beach Wichita Orange County Roanoke V I R G I N I A KENTUCKY Liberal A R I Z O NA Santa Fe Springfield Prescott Greensboro/High Point/Winston-Salem Palm Springs Raleigh/Durham NORTH M I S S O U R I Paducah Amarillo Show Low Tulsa San Diego Knoxville CA R O L I NA Albuquerque Nashville Northwest Phoenix/Scottsdale Oklahoma City Charlotte Arkansas Asheville Fayetteville/Ft. Bragg TENNE SSEE ARKANSAS Greenville/ Spartanburg OKLAHOMA Memphis Lubbock Little NEW MEXICO Tucson Rock Huntsville/ Columbia Myrtle Beach Decatur Atlanta Pierre Huron

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system that travelers, operators and our economy require. This isn’t a criticism of FAA leadership—past or present—or the frontline people who run one of the safest air traffic systems in the world. It’s a criticism of the political interference and start-and-stop funding that our government imposes on the FAA. So how do we fix it? We have been working with our trade association, Airlines for America, to undertake considerable research on various models of air navigation service providers around the world to assess their safety, governance, and financial and operational performance compared to the U.S. system. We have concluded that a nonprofit, non-governmental enterprise, similar to the air navigation service provider of Canada (NAV CANADA), would provide the safest, most reliable, most efficient and most modern services to you as travelers and to us as users of the system. As in other parts of the world, the modernized system would be financed by user fees, which would be transparent to airlines and their passengers. User fees would provide a steady and reliable stream of revenue to permit the nonprofit company to finance and implement a modern, satellite-based air navigation system, free of the start-andstop funding of the current political process. The user fees would replace some of the 17 different, and often opaque, taxes and fees currently paid by the airline industry and its passengers to help fund the FAA. The nonprofit company would be governed by stakeholders, free from political influence,

and would be managed by professional managers, who would work together with skilled air traffic controllers and other employees to deliver safe, efficient service. Safety, the primary mission of every air traffic control system, would continue to be regulated and overseen by the FAA, as it is today. Separating the provision of air navigation services from the regulatory oversight of those same services would also eliminate the inherent conflict of interest that the FAA has today (as both safety regulator and operator of the air navigation system) and would be consistent with the International Civil Aviation Organization guidelines calling for such separation. While making this change won’t be easy, we believe it is necessary. Many other countries have taken on this challenge and have done it successfully, and the U.S. has the benefit of learning from their combined experience. We can make this important change without disruptions to safety or service. The risk of doing nothing is high. We simply cannot afford the status quo, which will leave us with an air traffic control system that, while safe, will not be prepared to meet the ever growing demands of our diverse aviation system. Thanks again for flying United today.

JEFF SMISEK Chairman of the Board, President and Chief Executive Officer, United Airlines

JULY 2015 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

10/06/2015 09:08

Elijah Jackson 2015 March of Dimes National Ambassador

Support the UnitedÂŽ Adventure Bear Program by sending a bear to a child today. Proud to celebrate 10 years as a March of Dimes partner

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08/06/2015 09:03

voices

Heart of the Hub Joni Belknap keeps United’s operations in San Francisco pumping BY PETE RAPALUS

nited employees at San Francisco International Airport, our U gateway to the Pacific, host a number of community-oriented events and fundraising drives, and at the center of all of them is the highly persuasive heart of the hub, organizer and planner extraordinaire Joni Belknap. “Joni is amazing,” says Hub vice president Mike Hanna. “She makes things happen. Nothing ever falls through the cracks, and she can navigate through anything. I’m convinced she could easily be the planner for anything up to and including a presidential inauguration, and we’re fortunate that she’s here at United and here at SFO.” A 24-year United veteran, Belknap is currently a supervisor in Airport Operations, and she transcends that title. She wears many hats at the bustling airport, handling recognition across all work groups, 12

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overseeing performance management and running events all the way from conception to cleanup. Those events range from route launches to the annual Fantasy Flights for ill and disadvantaged children to major fundraising drives for March of Dimes—and she coordinates her co-workers’ volunteer efforts at local food banks. Belknap also stages events that highlight the diversity of the United staff, usually in public areas where customers are welcome to watch and take part. At a recent Asian-American and Pacific Islander Celebration held at one of the gates, she says, “It was great to see passengers stop and ask what we were doing, pull out their cameras and have fun for a while watching our employees celebrate their cultures. It ’s a great way to promote United—that we’re a community as well as an airline.”

Belknap takes little credit for the success of these ventures, and others say that’s to be expected of someone who is so naturally skilled at making others contribute to these team efforts. But every team needs a quarterback, even a modest one. “Joni can take any concept and execute it in an organized, lovely way,” says frequent collaborator Maureen McLellan, of Corporate and Community Affairs. “She is able to rally co-workers around any cause, and she does it while keeping a positive, kind attitude.” Paul Carlson, senior maintenance manager at SFO, agrees. “She has a knack for getting everyone involved about volunteering, so it doesn’t seem like more work or an imposition on them,” he says. “What people notice is that she’s right there in the trenches the whole time with them. These events aren’t easy to run; she just makes it look that way sometimes.” Belknap started as a part-time customer service agent at SFO in 1991 and has since worked in many departments and capacities. She knows virtually everyone on the staff by name, as well as many of those frequent flyers who call SFO their home base. Thanks to the depth and breadth of her knowledge, she often serves as a sort of ombudsperson for the hub, fielding requests and random inquiries from every angle. “For just about anything incoming you can imagine, she’s the most reliable catcher’s mitt,” Hanna says. “She knows when to make decisions and when to get other people involved or to ask for help. You cannot overestimate the value of her contributions to SFO.” Belknap is also an avid golfer and walker, and she loves all outdoor activities. She has recently become more involved with volunteer work on behalf of Alzheimer’s patients, as her mother is battling the disease. She is also the mother of two grown daughters who have inherited her love of travel—which is fitting, as it was her desire, as a young mother, for part-time work and flexibility that led her to seek a career at United in the first place. JULY 2015 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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connections

Family is the Best Medicine United helps offer aid to the families of U.S. service members or more than 10 years, United and its customers have connected wounded, injured and ill U.S. service members F seeking medical treatment with their loved ones. Nothing is more comforting than having the support of family when you are sick. Charley Young knows this firsthand. When he learned that his son, Staff Sergeant Jon Young, was fighting post-traumatic stress disorder (PTSD) after serving in Iraq, he knew his son needed him, and fast. “No matter how old or tough your son is, he’s still your son, and you want to be there with him,” Charley says. That’s when a friend told him about Fisher House Foundation and its Hero Miles Program, which provides airline tickets purchased using donated miles to wounded, injured and ill service members—as well as their loved ones—who are undergoing treatment at a military or Veterans Affairs medical center. Thanks to the generosity of

United’s customers, who had donated MileagePlus miles, Charley was able to fly via United from his home in Long Island, New York, to Honolulu, Hawaii, to join Jon for his emergency treatments at Tripler Army Medical Center. “We couldn’t believe there was such a resource. With the support of United and Fisher House, I flew out first, and within 10 days our whole family was all together,” Charley says. “I don’t know if my son would have made it without us being there. We will always be thankful to those who donated their miles to help our family.” Over the past 10 years, United customers have donated more than 600 million miles, providing more than 11,401 tickets, to these heroes and their families. To find out more about Hero Miles or how you can be a hero to a hero and donate your miles, visit united.com/charitymiles. —JENNIFER BAKER

Ask the Pilot with captain mike bowers Why, when an inbound aircraft is delayed due to weather or maintenance, does United delay the next outbound flight (for that aircraft) for hours instead of using a spare aircraft from another gate or taking an aircraft flying later in the day, bumping it up to fly the outbound leg and letting the delayed aircraft fly the later mission after it arrives?

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Actually, we do swap aircraft frequently to keep our operation running as smoothly as possible. In fact, you may have been on a flight where we swapped aircraft, resulting in no interruption of schedule. So, you were not aware of the action going on behind the scenes to make that happen. We have spare aircraft in our hubs, and we do use them when the needs arise. But there can be issues with doing so, and we must consider what is best for the passengers and our operations. One of the issues is that pilots are only qualified on one type of aircraft. If we swap to another type of aircraft, we will need to get another pair

of pilots, which could take longer than the original delay. Also, we route our aircraft to cities where we plan to do scheduled routine maintenance on them. If we send that aircraft to a different location, it could negatively affect our operation elsewhere. We have networkwide and local operations personnel who manage these types of decisions on a daily basis. While delays are not a pleasant thing, they are a reality of an operation that is subject to weather, air traffic control and mechanical delays. We strive to find solutions that cause the least inconvenience to our customers. If a swap is that answer, we will certainly do it.

Do you have a question for Captain Bowers? You can write to him at askthepilot@united.com.

10/06/2015 16:29

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03/06/2015 14:33

DISPATCHES NE W S A ND N O T E S F R O M A R O U ND T HE WO R L D

germany

Gold Fingers Inside the Wellendorff jewelry plant, modern-day Rumpelstiltskins spin gold into silk n the sleepy southwestern German town of Pforzheim, beside a market square heaving with homemade Isausages and jam, stands a squat brown structure that, at first glance, could be the local department of motor vehicles. This unprepossessing building, though, houses one of the world’s most exclusive jewelry companies, one that caters to some of the world’s wealthiest people. The company is Wellendorff, a family-run enterprise that started producing jewelry for European royalty in the 1890s and is now best known for its woven-gold rope. Introduced nearly 40 years ago by family patriarch Hanspeter, the rope is said by its wearers to be as smooth as silk‚ and it’s about to get a serious upgrade. “The new collection is even smoother,” says designer Uli Perathoner, casually bouncing a $50,000 bracelet in his hand. Perathoner is standing at the center of the plant’s main workshop, which is as clean and bright as a chemistry lab. He’s surrounded by a small army of workers who are either hunched over microscopes, fiddling with teeny tools or operating an array of gleaming machines.

Attention to detail, Perathoner says, is absolutely vital. “If you spend this kind of money on some jewelry, and it catches just one of the wearer’s hairs, it is a catastrophe.” At one workstation sits Sandra, a cheery 25-year veteran of the company, who is meticulously braiding 40 strands of gold into an intricate bracelet. By her side is a supersize version of the same piece. This, it turns out, is a solid gold belt, made to order for an unnamed VIP. The guy who spins the gold is Stefan, a genial, thickset man who has worked here for a mere 23 years. The process starts with a 12-inch rod of solid gold, which he fires and stretches until it is so thin that 20 feet of the stuff is required for every necklace. You need strength as well as delicacy to do Stefan’s job. His big hands are as rough as the rope is smooth, his fingers worn from years of gripping tubes of hot metal. “That is a good thing,” he says with a broad smile. “It is helpful for when I play foosball with my colleagues at the end of my shift.” —BOYD FARROW

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JULY 2015 • ILLUSTRATIONS BY LUCI GUTIÉRREZ

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03/06/2015 09:05

dispatches los angeles

Divasaurus Re x A temperamental showbiz Tyrannosaur calls it quits teve Cooper has performed before millions of people, yet it’s likely that not a single one of them has the first idea S who he is. This is what happens when you do your best work inside the belly of a beast. A 30-year-old Englishman, Cooper bears the distinctive title of Head of Creatures for “Walking with Dinosaurs: The Arena Spectacular,” a popular animatronic live show—think Jurassic Park for the stage—that is reported to have cost $20 million to produce. Even with the substantial budget, the show relies on the resourcefulness of its crew. “Sometimes we’ll forget to fill a nose up [with fake snot],” Cooper says during a pre-show rehearsal in Los Angeles, “and end up rushing around to find a bottle of water.” Along with overseeing snot production, Cooper is responsible for operating the show’s 6-ton, 39-foot Tyrannosaurus rex, a job that requires him to cram himself into a tiny cockpit—amid a tangle of “pistons, hydraulics, airbags and bungee cords”—in which, unable to see much of anything, he lumbers around the stage. “She handles like an unwieldy tank,” he says, standing beside a three-foot pile of fake dung. Now in its eighth year, “Walking with Dinosaurs” has paraded its robotic marvels through cities around the world.

After LA, it will move on to Adelaide, Australia, for its final run. Cooper will miss his co-star, he says, even if she does drive him nuts.“Sometimes, she’ll just stop moving, like she’s decided she’s had enough,” he says. “She’s a complete diva.” As if on cue, a nearby Brachiosaurus shudders to a halt. “At times you feel like kicking them,” Cooper says, giving the malfunctioning animal an appreciative pat. “Of course, I would never do that. These things cost a million dollars apiece.” —JAMES BARTLETT

tel aviv

To the Bat Cave! Squalor, ﬁlth and horror-ﬁlm creatures at the world’s most inhospitable tourist attraction

t’s rush hour at Central Bus Station, a Brutalist eyesore on Tel Aviv’s southern edge, and the usual hubbub is underway. Away from the chattering vendors and bustling commuters, a small group of people head down a stairwell, past a desolate cinema and an abandoned nuclear shelter and into the maw of a subterranean tunnel, site of an improbable and inhospitable tourist attraction. At the entrance to the tunnel is a sign warning of toxic chemicals, and a few group members have stopped before it. “The sign is fake,” says Yonatan Mishal, a 37-year-old guide for a local urban tour company. “Workers just put it here to keep people away.” With this, he strides into the gloom, in search of the telltale blots in high

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corners, the almost imperceptible flap of wings that has drawn us here. For years, Tel Aviv’s bats have sought refuge in the bowels of the city’s unloved bus station, and the colony has grown so

large that the site has been designated a nature reserve—possibly the only one in existence that smells like a public restroom. But the squalor doesn’t seem to be much of a deterrent. “I love this place,” says Jay Schultz, who is taking the tour with his girlfriend. “It is so quirky and weird.” A moment later, a bat flitters overhead, followed by a dozen more. Soon, the skittish, shadowy creatures are everywhere, creating a scene that, for many, would be best suited to a horror film. Schultz, for one, has no such aversion. “The bat cave is one of the few redeeming features of this place,” he says. “Every human plan for the station failed, but the bats—they work.” —DEBRA KAMIN

JULY 2015 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

03/06/2015 09:06

Miles accrued, awards, and beneﬁts issued are subject to change and are subject to the rules of the United MileagePlus program. United is not responsible for any products or services of other participating companies and partners. For complete details about the MileagePlus Program, go to www.united.com. © 2015 United Airlines, Inc. All rights reserved. SM

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08/06/2015 09:01

dispatches

spernall, england

Game of Throngs Swordﬁghts, mead and wizard hats enter the mainstream here’s an orc in the ladies’ room. It’s making small talk with a blue-gilled woman who’s reapplying her lipstick. “I T can’t die today,” the fish lady chirps. “I’ve got a meeting later.” Outside the restroom there are more orcs, loads of them, black-eyed and with gray skin, clad in leather and fur, stomping through the muddy, medieval setting of “Empire,” a live-action role-playing (or larping) event. “Is there any loo paper in there?” one of them asks. About 1,800 wizards, goblins and sundry fantasists have assembled in this Middle England field, ready for a weekend of waging war, drinking mead and discussing matters of state inside large canvas tents. It’s “Game of Thrones” meets Lord of the Rings meets … nervous dog walkers, unused to such sights in their sleepy village.

“A lot of people think this is weird until they see it,” says Matthew Pennington, director of Profound Decisions, the firm behind the event. Role playing is no longer seen as a marginal pursuit, he claims. There are events for Harry Potter and “Downton Abbey.” Kids are doing it, he says. Grandmothers. There are plenty of elderly ladies here today, even though someone seems to be stabbing or throttling an opponent everywhere you look. “It’s just innocent fun,” Pennington says. But this isn’t only about fun. According to Pennington, role playing satisfies a fundamental human urge: “Becoming whoever you want without any restrictions.” Unsurprisingly, that desire is often best fulfilled by playing the part of the bloodthirsty villain. “I’ve only killed a few people myself,” he says. “I’m more of a thief.” —VICKY LANE

paris

L’Ennui de Vivre How to perform the perfect Gallic shrug

t’s July 14: Bastille Day. You’re at Café de Flore, sipping vin ordinaire and reading L’Étranger, when a tourist noisily asks you to point him to the Trocadéro for the “Bass-dilly Day” fireworks. There is, naturellement, only one response. —CHRIS WRIGHT

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1 THE FACE Pull the sides of your mouth down, as in a child’s sad-face drawing, while raising your eyebrows to their highest possible point. The effect should suggest a combination of vague unhappiness and mild surprise.

2 THE ARMS Raise your hands, palms up, to a point just below shoulder height, as if holding two drink trays. Don’t hold your hands too high, as the resulting “stress position,” may turn your disdainful expression into more of a grimace.

3 THE MOTION Bring your shoulders up until they touch your ears. Hold this position until your target moves on. With practice, you’ll be able to raise your shoulders and eyebrows at the same time, heightening the withering effect.

JULY 2015 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

03/06/2015 09:06

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26/05/2015 11:27

Donate Your MileagePlus Miles Today Through generous donations from United MileagePlus® members like you, our Hero Miles program has provided thousands of flights to wounded, injured and ill service members and their families. To find out how you can donate miles, visit www.united.com/CharityMiles and look for the Hero Miles logo. On behalf of Fisher House Foundation, thank you for being a hero to our brave military and their families. We encourage you to find out more about Fisher House programs by visiting us online at www.ﬁsherhouse.org or by calling (888)294-8560.

Special thanks to United Airlines® for donating space in support of Fisher House Foundation and our Hero Miles program. We are grateful for your partnership.

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08/06/2015 09:00

HEMI CULTURE TASTEMAKERS, STAY, THE FAN, LOCAL LOOK, TRAVEL ESSAY, THE MONTH AHEAD

Bitters? Sweet! BAR SNACKS North African–inspired bitters spice up the Poisson Lem Marrakech at Vancouver’s Cafe Medina

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JULY 2015

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A new generation of chefs are taking craft-distilled bitters off the bar and into the kitchen BY LORA SHINN PHOTOGRAPHY BY GRANT HARDER

03/06/2015 09:07

hemi culture TA ST E M A K E R S

DROP IT LIKE IT’S HOT Chef Jonathan Chovancek brines salmon in his North African–inspired spiced bitters

hef Caprial Pence was wandering through the bar area of her Bookstore Bar & Café, at Seattle’s Alexis Hotel, when a bottle caught her eye. “Bartenders use bitters the way chefs use soy or vinegar,” she remembers thinking. With this simple idea in mind, she began experimenting with these mixology utility players across her menu, from salads spiked with bitters-infused vinaigrettes to pound cakes baked with orange bitters. “Sometimes you taste a dish, and you ask yourself, ‘What does this need?’” Pence says of her culinary discovery. “Now, adding bitters is part of my repertoire. There are so many flavors, made with peppers and chocolate and grapefruit. The more I see of them at the bar, the more I’ve played with them.” Despite their name, Pence says, bitters don’t impart an overpowering flavor. “Sometimes there’s a bit of bitter in the finish, but it’s not acrid or unpleasant,” she says. “There are some bitters in our braising liquid for short ribs, but nobody knows it’s in there but us.” Fruits, barks, seeds, herbs, flowers and other botanicals are steeped in high-proof alcohol to make bitters. Originally touted as a panacea for everything from headaches and hangovers to indigestion and constipation, the elixir was incorporated into first-generation cocktails in Today’s dishes are decidedly more appealing. At the late 18th century. Peychaud’s Bitters, a key ingredient in Sazeracs, appeared in New Orleans in 1793, while Angostura Chicago’s Sepia, for example, Michelin-starred chef Bitters, used in Manhattans and Old Fashioneds, debuted Andrew Zimmerman pairs seared scallops with delicate gelee squares made from Bittermens Hopped Grapefruit three decades later in what is now Venezuela. For years, these two powerhouses dominated the bitters Bitters. At the Hermosa Inn, near Scottsdale, Arizona, chef game. “Now, a bunch of people are making fresh and fine James Ducas seasons baby octopus with fennel bitters, adds bitters,” says Todd Duplechan, of Austin’s Lenoir restau- Meyer lemon bitters to his baby scallop carbonara and pairs roasted duck with mesquite bitters– rant. “When you taste or smell the “BITTERS ARE KIND OF LIKE spiced cauliflower. bitters, you can really taste or smell Some chefs are going so far as the ingredients.” Infused with celery, SENSORY OVERLOAD. to brew their own bitters. Jonathan bitter lemon, green peppercorn and A LIL’ DAB’LL DO YA TO Chovancek co-owns British Columcoriander, the Bloody Mary Bitters IMPART A LOT OF FLAVOR.” bia’s Bittered Sling, where he turns distilled at the nearby Bad Dog Bar Craft complement Duplechan’s ceviche and pickles. out such seasonal flavors as Zingiber Crabapple, Shanghai “Bitters are kind of like sensory overload,” he adds. “A lil’ Rhubarb and Western Elderberry, many of which include ingredients harvested or grown in the nearby Fraser Valley. dab’ll do ya to impart a lot of flavor.” While the practice may be new to this generation of At his Vancouver restaurant, Cafe Medina, Chovancek’s chefs, sprinkling bitters into dinner items is a time-honored Poisson Lem Marrakech features salmon brined in his tradition—albeit one with historically mixed results. North African–inspired bitters, while the wild celery variVintage manufacturers’ leaflets and recipe booklets once ety spices up a snack of warm mixed olives and almonds. encouraged bitters-spiked fare, but author Brad Thomas “Bitters are pushing forward flavors inherent in the food, Parsons argues in Bitters: A Spirited History of a Classic Cure- pushing them forward on the palate and offering taste All that most “seem like prime material for The Gallery of counterpoints,” Chovancek says. Home chefs can also get in on what Chovancek calls the Regrettable Food.” Think midcentury monstrosities like Fish-in-Foil with Flavor, Baked Meat Ring, Prune Chiffon “creative artistry” of bitters: Add a few drops of Bittered Melva and Soup-on-the-Rocks (condensed beef broth over Sling’s award-winning Plum & Rootbeer to your next bowl of ice cream for a truly bittersweet experience. ice cubes, with a few dashes of Angostura).

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JULY 2015 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

03/06/2015 09:07

WINE ENTHUSIAST RATINGS SCORE OUT OF 100 POINTS

STILLE DI

AUS

PTS

TEXTAIN S

USA

LED

2015

No.40437 Titos Vodka.indd 1

12/05/2015 10:14

hemi culture TA ST E M A K E R S

WHAT TO ORDER AND WHERE TO EAT IT

WHAT Q fugazza Like a sauceless focaccia, the most classic porteño style is topped with a heap of roasted onions, parmesan and herbs. The crust is crisp on the bottom, chewier on top, thinner and less buttery than Chicago-style deep dish. Nearly two inches thick, it’s eaten with a knife and fork. fugazzetta Also called fugazza con queso, this famous variation adds oozy mozzarella (and sometimes ham) under the mound of onions. napolitana This Neapolitan-inspired version sees the addition of fresh tomatoes—but still no sauce. Anchovies and olives are popular toppings. fainá This moist Ligurian flatbread is like polenta, but made with chickpea flour instead of cornmeal. Cut into pizza-slice-size wedges, it’s stacked atop fugazza or fugazzetta for a truly carbo-loaded treat. WHERE Q güerrin Located near downtown’s Microcentro, the city’s most famous pizzeria—popular among office workers and tourists alike—celebrated its 80th birthday in 2012. Pay, grab a slice and fight for elbow room at the bustling counter.

A Beginner’s Guide to Porteño Pizza E

ver since pizza as we know it was born, in Naples, the dish has been an urban construct, associated more with the city of origin than the country. We don’t speak of Italian- or American-style pizzas but rather of Neapolitan, Roman, New York or Chicago varieties—along with lesserknown, though no less beloved versions from Detroit, St. Louis and New Haven. Some are merely tweaks, some radically different, but few are as unique as the traditional pizza of Buenos Aires. Though most visitors know Buenos Aires for its steaks, it’s actually every bit as much a pizza town as New York. (It’s hard to miss the city’s intensely Italian ancestral pedigree.) Here, a beginner’s guide to the styles and classic pizzerias that get porteño mouths watering. —LARRY OLMSTED

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las cuartetas Güerrin’s longtime rival, just a few blocks away, has a boisterous cafeteria atmosphere. With its quaint little benches and low tables, it’s the perfect spot for an on-the-go slice. el cuartito Between downtown and Recoleta, “La Buena Pizzeria” (as it’s been nicknamed for the past eight decades) attracts a mix of local families and global travelers. The two huge dining rooms are ﬁlled with elbow-to-elbow tables and plastered with fading posters, signed jerseys and prized fútbol memorabilia.

YADID LEVY

buenos aires

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03/06/2015 09:07

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hemi culture TA ST E M A K E R S

new york city

Rock Candy Crush Bartenders are falling for a forgotten saloon-era tipple

stockholm

Hip Hops Sweden gets into an Empire State of Mind

rooklyn, as a cultural construct, is a big American import in Stockholm, a city that shares the borough’s love for the artisanal and the cutting-edge. An even bigger import, it turns out, is the beer that shares the borough’s name. “Sweden is actually the number two market for Brooklyn Brewery outside of New York City now,” says head brewmaster Garrett Oliver. With that popularity in mind, last year, Brooklyn Brewery teamed with regional giant Carlsberg to launch its ﬁrst overseas outpost. The New Carnegie Brewery, or Nya Carnegiebryggeriet, revives a oncedefunct local brand in a space that (per Brooklyn’s postindustrial aesthetic) occupies an old lightbulb factory. “The brewery was started by Americans who have lived overseas,” Oliver says, “so we bring an international sensibility.” They’ve embraced a spirit of cross-cultural fusion. In addition to a line of bottled beers, New Carnegie crafts special brews, available at its waterfront bar (above), with Nordic-inspired infusions such as lingonberries, elderﬂowers and aquavit spices. “To Swedes, the smell of aquavit is a particular aroma of summertime,” Oliver says. “We wanted to bring a distinctly Scandinavian sensibility to what we’re doing here.” —JAY CHESHES

But a few intrepid folks are looking even farther back, to 19th-century saloon culture, and many are working to revive the reputation of a once-loved concoction called rock and rye. The exact origins of the sweet, spicy cordial are murky, but most agree that it HARPER’S FERRY Yields one drink dates back to the late 1800s, FROM NATE DUMAS AT THE SHANTY when bartenders tempered • 1 oz. Mister Katz’s Rock & Rye jars of young rye by dissolv• ¾ oz. Pierre Ferrand Cognac 1840 ing rock candy in it, adding • ½ oz. Botran Rum spices and citrus to create a • ¾ oz. fresh lemon juice more palatable sip. • ½ oz. simple syrup “Once upon a time in Shake ingredients over ice and strain into a America, any saloon worth chilled cocktail glass. Lightly garnish with its salt would have had their freshly grated nutmeg. own house rock and rye,” says Allen Katz, co-founder of Brooklyn’s New York Distilling Company. The drink, he adds, “developed the perception of a medicinal elixir—a cure-all for the common cold, a bad cough, headaches and stomach ailments.” “The drink faded from public consciousness in the middle of the 20th century,” Katz says, “but has begun to reappear on the heels of the rye whiskey resurgence.” Last year, the distillery created its own bottled version, Mister Katz’s Rock & Rye, which gets its flavor from rock candy sugar, cinnamon, dried cherries and orange peels. At the on-site bar The Shanty, mixologist Nate Dumas pairs it with Pierre Ferrand Cognac 1840, Botran Rum, fresh lemon juice and simple syrup, and tops it with grated nutmeg to create the Harper’s Ferry cocktail. At The Last Word, in Livermore, California, the Rock ’n’ Java is made with Tia Maria coffee liqueur, orange bitters and Slow & Low, a slightly less sweet version distilled by Cooper Spirits Co. At Steuben’s in Denver, the house rock and rye is made with Rittenhouse Bonded Rye, oranges, lemons, cloves, cassia bark, loose rock candy and horehound tincture. And LA’s Eveleigh has been mixing a particularly smooth version since 2013. Made with Wild Turkey 101 infused with horehound, dandelion and burdock root, the concoction is barrel-aged for a month before being served on the rocks. —JENNY ADAMS

BOARDING PASS With United’s daily summer service from its New York hub to Stockholm, you can stop by Brooklyn Brewery before heading off to try its overseas outpost, New Carnegie. United’s mobile app will keep your travel information at your ﬁngertips while you’re on the go. For more information, visit united.com.

023_HEMI0715_CULTURE_Food.indd 28

COURTESY OF THE NEW CARNEGIE BREWERY (STOCKHOLM); JENNY ADAMS (HARPER’S FERRY)

or years, mixologists have been smitten with F Prohibition-era speakeasies.

JULY 2015 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

03/06/2015 09:07

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08/06/2015 14:29

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09/06/2015 08:53

hemi culture

stay

An Airy Retreat for Design Buffs THE NORMAN, TEL AVIV

ccupying two 1925 Bauhaus buildings, the Norman sits in the heart of Tel Aviv’s White City, a UNESCO–listed district of modernist architectural gems. The 50-room hotel, opened in December, exudes a bright, refreshing sophistication— starting with the custom citrus spray that wafts through the lobby, calling to mind the kumquat and pomelo trees in the courtyard. The hotel’s social hub, the Library Bar, evokes the British colonial era with its pewter-top bar, gently revolving ceiling fans, vintage posters and classically attired waitstaff. Curator Tamar Dresdner enlivens the décor with original works by leading contemporary Israeli artists, such as Tsibi Geva, Sigalit Landau and the graffiti artist Klone.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JULY 2015

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10/06/2015 09:08

hemi culture STAY

A Desert-Inspired Hotel that Feels Worlds Away from the Strip THE DELANO, LAS VEGAS

BACKSTORY Vegas regulars will recognize Mandalay Bay’s gleaming, 43-story gold tower from its previous (unGoogleable) incarnation as THEhotel. But since a major rebranding and renovation, completed last September, this all-suite hotel-within-a-hotel has been the western outpost of South Beach’s sleek Delano hotel. DESIGN NOTES Located at the southernmost end of the Strip, the sophisticated styling here feels much more inspired by the minimalism of the nearby desert than the tacky glitz of neighboring resorts. Upon entering the foyer, you’ll pass between the two halves of a 126,000-pound metaquartzite boulder found in the Mojave Desert, and then you’ll walk along a carpet inspired by an aerial photograph of the winding Colorado River. Enormous columns made from perfectly draped sheer white fabric and a soundtrack of dance beats will remind you that you are still in Vegas. BEST PLACE TO HANG OUT The lobby craft-cocktail lounge, Franklin

(get it?), is designed to evoke fireflies in the night sky, with hundreds of tiny twinkling lights dangling overhead. Cocktail names pay homage to either the hotel’s presidential namesake (such as the D’Ussé cognac–based New Deal and the Mr. Hyde, which takes its name from FDR’s hometown of Hyde Park, New York) or the Delano’s Miami origins (such as the Mojito Cubano and the South Beach Sunrise).

A Diva Returns to the Parisian Stage HILTON PARIS OPERA, PARIS

HOT DISH Like any Vegas resort worth its salt, the Delano boasts a celebrity chef: multiple-Michelin-starred Monegasque maestro Alain Ducasse is set to open a brand new spot on the 43rd floor this fall. But the hotel’s biggest culinary surprise is Della’s Kitchen, a homey farm-to-table bistro that sources ingredients from area hydroponic farms and the hotel’s own greenhouse. A menu highlight, and one that stands in stark contrast to the over-the-top offerings you’ll find up and down the rest of the Strip, is the simply prepared toasted cheese sandwich with tomato soup—as the menu notes, FDR’s favorite dish.

BACKSTORY Once the glamorous leading lady of 19th-century society, this 1889 Haussmann-era landmark was designed to house the throngs of tourists pouring in to visit the Exposition Universelle—the world’s fair for which the Eiffel Tower was famously (and, at the time, controversially) constructed. Now, thanks to a $50 million renovation and grand reopening in January, the 268-room classic is getting the encore it deserves, complete with a host of era-appropriate trappings like granite columns, bronze statues and crystal chandeliers by Baccarat. BEST PLACE TO HANG OUT The Belle Époque Grand Salon space buzzes with Parisians sipping espressos and craft cocktails beneath a stunning ceiling of original hand-painted frescoes atop a Corinthian colonnade. Legend has it that the ceiling’s painter went unpaid for a day and showed his displeasure by leaving his infelicitous mark on the mural: Try to find the one cherub showing off his backside to the crowd below. WHAT YOU’LL FIND JUST OUTSIDE Located in the dynamic Opéra district, the hotel is an ideal jumping-off point for the Champs-Élysées and iconic department stores such as the Galeries Lafayette and Printemps Haussmann. More important, it’s less than a 10-minute stroll from the neighborhood’s namesake Opéra Garnier, home to Gaston Leroux’s (and later Andrew Lloyd Webber’s) tragic Phantom.

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10/06/2015 09:09

No.40448_Merlin_Entertainment 1pp.indd 1

08/06/2015 09:09

hemi culture

the fan

All Things Big and Small This year’s Baseball Hall of Fame class features two pitchers who dominated from opposite ends of the physical spectrum BY JOE LEMIRE

aseball is in many ways the most egalitarian of sports, one in which men of all shapes and sizes can succeed. Take, for example, two current stars: Bartolo Colón has put together an 18-year career despite a 285-pound, bowling-ball physique, and at age 42 he’s still dominating for the New York Mets. Meanwhile, José Altuve, one of the best second basemen in today’s game, weighs 165 pounds and stands just 5-foot-6—so small that, during a 2012 game, Houston Astros broadcasters wryly wondered “how many Altuves” a home run of his had traveled. Yet Altuve has been an All Star and a batting champion. On July 26, when the Baseball Hall of Fame inducts its 2015 class, another one of the game’s great physical contrasts will be on display. Standing on the stage in Cooperstown, New York, will be the two most dominating starting pitchers of their generation: Randy Johnson, a 6-foot-10, left-handed Californian who was known as the Big Unit during a career that saw him pitch for six teams, and Pedro Martínez, a Dominican right-hander who stood just 5-foot-11 and who was called Petey by his Boston Red Sox teammates. Martínez was so slight that the team that originally signed him, the Los Angeles Dodgers, believed he wouldn’t last as a starter and traded him to the Montreal Expos when he was just 21. This was in spite of his ability to light up radar guns in the mid-to-upper 90s. “My body frame did not intimidate anybody,” Martínez says. “I was a freak of studying mechanics. I became a patch of everybody.” 34

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Martínez tailored his workouts to his body, using medicine balls, running stairs and doing calf and shoulder exercises. “I was very precise with my mechanics, but legs were the ultimate dictator when it came to strength and power,” he says. “I had a very different workout routine than anybody. I was able to harness everything I had and get such pinpoint control.” He applied that command to a devastating arsenal of pitches: At Martínez’s peak, he arguably had the best fastball, curve and changeup in the majors. What’s more, he understood how to mix those pitches to attack hitters, and he was never short on confidence—to a point that bordered on cockiness. “I saw everybody as an enemy,” Martínez says. “I saw everybody like in the jungle. You just kill to survive. That’s the intensity and focus I had to keep.” Despite being much more physically imposing, Johnson, who once inadvertently killed a flying bird with a pitch, also had to overcome doubts early in his career. With his height and long arms, learning how to pitch didn’t come easily. “I can’t imagine being as tall as Randy and having to finetune all these parts,” Martínez says. Indeed, while Johnson possessed a fastball that once hit 102 mph and a slider that was as fast as most pitchers’ fastballs, he struggled to control them. As a minor leaguer in the Montreal organization, he walked more than seven batters per nine innings—a rate that’s twice as poor as what’s usually acceptable. The Expos traded him to Seattle, and while he threw a no-hitter for the Mariners in 1990, that same season he walked 120 batters. After several more up-and-down

ILLUSTRATIONS BY PJ LOUGHLIN • JULY 2015 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

10/06/2015 09:10

STEPHEN DUNN/GETTY IMAGES (MARTÍNEZ); ROB LEITER/MLB PHOTOS VIA GETTY IMAGES (JOHNSON)

seasons, Johnson sought help from fellow Hall of Famer Nolan Ryan—another fireballer who battled early-career wildness—and pitching instructor Tom House, who helped Johnson become consistent with his mechanics. “Obviously, my height was to my advantage, but only once I was able to harness my ability,” says Johnson, who signed with Arizona, where he spent his peak years, as a free agent in 1999. “I was all arms and legs, and obviously there weren’t too many power pitchers that came before me [like that], so I didn’t have a blueprint to work with. It was an uphill battle. There were moments when I wanted to quit the game, but I stuck with it.” In the end, despite their obvious differences, these two pitchers produced eerily similar results. Johnson and Martínez rank first and second, respectively, in Major League history in career strikeout rate for starting pitchers. Johnson whiffed 10.6 batters per nine innings pitched; Martínez fanned 10.0. They both plied their craft during the so-called Steroid Era, when scoring was the highest in baseball history, yet one would never know it by looking at their numbers. Perhaps the most telling indicator of their success comes from the advanced statistic ERA+, which adjusts earned run average based on league-wide scoring rates and home ballparks to make historical comparisons easier. An ERA+ of 100 is league average; a 105 is 5 percent better, and a 95 is 5 percent worse. Johnson posted an ERA+ above 175 seven times, topping out at 195 in 2002. Martínez topped 200 five times, and in 2000, his 1.74 ERA translated to a 291 ERA+, the best single

season in Major League history. His career ERA+ of 154 is also the best in history among starting pitchers. Aside from their consistency, both pitchers brought a thrilling, must-see-event air to each start. Martínez never completed a no-hitter but once threw nine perfect innings before allowing a hit in the 10th of what had remained a scoreless game. Johnson threw that no-hitter with Seattle at age 26, and then a perfect game for Arizona in 2004, at age 40. Johnson had nine starts in which he struck out at least 15 batters while allowing three or fewer hits; Martínez had five such games.Those totals rank first and second in the last 30 years. In spite of their differences and their humble starts, Johnson entered the Hall of Fame with 97.3 percent of the baseball writers’ votes, Martínez with 91.1 percent. Both truly stood tall on the field. While that may literally have been easier for Johnson, as Martínez noted in a television interview after the announcement of his Hall election, he had one helpful aid when pitching that neutralized his height disadvantage: “When I’m on the mound,” he said, “I’m taller than anybody.” That’s true—but only because he never faced Johnson in the batter’s box, in which case the 10-inch mound would still have left Martínez one inch short. Freelance writer JOE LEMIRE, who grew up near Boston, used to plan his schedule around Pedro starts; he once watched Martínez strike out 16—but he also watched Grady Little leave him in too long.

TALE OF THE TAPE RA N DY J OH N S O N

PEDRO MART ÍNEZ 5-FOOT-11 MANOGUAYABO, DOMINICAN REPUBLIC 154, 1ST ALL-TIME 1.74, 1.7 IN 2000 WITH BOSTON 10.0, 2ND ALL-TIME

HOMETOWN

6-FOOT-10 LIVERMORE, CALIFORNIA

CAREER ERA+

135, TIED FOR 15TH ALL-TIME

BEST SEASON ERA

2.28, IN 1997 WITH TH SEATTLE

STRIKEOUTS/9 INNINGS

10.6, 1ST ALL-TIME ME

3,154, 13TH ALL-TIME

CAREER STRIKEOUTS

4,875, 2ND ALL-TIME TIME

1.054, 5TH ALL-TIME

WALKS+HITS/INNING PITCHED

1.171, 91ST ALL-TIME TIME

219 3 91.1 8 $146 MILLION

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HEIGHT

CAREER WINS CY YOUNG AWARDS PERCENT OF HALL OF FAME VOTES ALL-STAR GAMES CAREER EARNINGS

303 5 97.3 10 $175 MILLION

10/06/2015 09:10

hemi culture local look

On Mexico City Style INTERVIEW BY SARA LIEBERMAN PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANÍBAL BARCO

arco Bochicchio isn’t accustomed to being in front of the camera. His bloodhound, Rufus, on the other hand, is a pooch that likes to pose. In fact, he was the inspiration for the 26-year-old’s appropriately titled “Mente de Rufus”—Mind of Rufus— Instagram account, where he posts pastel shots of Mexico and beyond to his more than 68,000 followers, including Vogue magazine, which featured him as the ultimate Mexico City tour guide last year. Before Hemispheres turned the lens around on the nature-inspired architect, we talked T-shirts and Mexican hipsters. WHAT’S THE STYLE SCENE LIKE IN MEXICO CITY? Exotic. There is a lot of diversity, and it depends on the zone you are in. The center is banda style, a mix of skater with long cholo jeans that are big and baggy. If you go to the south—where Frida and Diego lived—you'll find hippie style like long T-shirts, flowy pants and beaded necklaces. WHERE DO YOU SHOP? In the streets of Colonia Roma you can find lots of boutiques, like Mecanico for cool T-shirts, jeans and designer clothes, and Dr. York for vintage sunglasses. I also like the traditional vintage market in the north, Mercado de la Lagunilla. DO YOU HAVE ANY FAVORITE LOCAL DESIGNERS? Pineda Covalin. I don’t have much from it, but I love the idea of placing traditional Mexican imagery with contemporary patterns and icons. TELL US ABOUT TODAY’S LOOK. The brown shorts are from a friend who found them in a market in Southeast Asia. I paired them with a Madras Mao shirt from Industry of All Nations because it’s light and ideal for sunny days. My leather sandals are from the central market in Cuernavaca, in Morelos. And my wood sunglasses are from Mexican brand Cardinal.

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IN MEXICO CITY THIS MONTH? Post your look with the hashtag #hemigram, and you might see yourself in the next issue. See page 8 for more details.

03/06/2015 09:10

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08/01/2015 15:54

hemi culture “I’M CONVINCED THERE IS A CONSPIRACY AMONG HOTELIERS, WHO ARE GETTING US TO DO THEIR DIRTY WORK BY SELLING IT AS AN ‘EXPERIENCE.’”

travel essay

Travail Agents From foraging for food to mucking out stables, vacations are becoming hard work BY BOYD FARROW

ot long ago, in a country inn high in the Tuscan hills, I enjoyed the best night’s sleep of my life. The mattress was wide, the pillows plump. It was warm enough to sleep with the window open, cool enough that I could appreciate the high-thread-count sheets.

The next morning, I was surprised to learn that I was the only guest who had notched more than five hours of shut-eye. My fellow patrons, it seemed, had roused themselves at dawn and headed out into the surrounding forest to participate in a ritual involving billowing smocks

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JULY 2015 • ILLUSTRATION BY MICHAEL BYERS

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03/06/2015 09:14

hemi culture T R AV E L E SSAY

and arcane equipment. I found myself wondering if I had accidentally joined a cult. And in a way I had. It turned out my fellow guests were all mushroom hunters on some expensive foodie tour of the region. This is not just a Tuscan thing. Foraging is one of those innovations that hotels ever ywhere are foisting on unsuspecting guests, like yoga on the sundeck and art installations in the lobby. But this one seems a step too far, involving, as it does, traipsing around in the middle of nowhere, sticking your fingers into squelchy earth and rotting vegetation. And the toil doesn’t stop when you’ve accumulated your produce, given that the average mushroom tends to be tougher to clean than a hard drive. All this raises an interesting question: Unless you’re stuck on a desert island, why would you want to go foraging for your dinner? For some inexplicable reason, my fellow guests at that extremely pleasant, not to mention wellstocked, inn were perfectly willing to leave their warm beds to scavenge for food in the woods like escaped convicts. Basically, they paid their hosts handsomely so they could do what our forefathers trained dogs and pigs to do. I’m convinced there is a conspiracy among hoteliers, who are getting us to do their dirty work by selling it as

“WE DON’T KNOW HOW TO SWITCH OFF ANY MORE. WE HAVE LOST THE ART OF DOING ABSOLUTELY NOTHING, AND, AS A RESULT, WE ARE GOING NUTS. HENCE THE RISE OF FARMING HOLIDAYS.” an “experience.” It is rare to find a resort these days where guests are not encouraged to catch their own fish or shoot their own game for the evening menu. You request honey in your tea now and someone sticks a mesh box on your head and bundles you off to the apiary. It is rumored that some hotels have dispensed with gardening staff entirely. “Mr. Jones in room 315? He’s busy cleaning the swimming pool—sorry, I mean gathering algae for his power smoothie.” What’s worse, many hotels are slyly turning their kitchens into cookery schools, where guests are coaxed into preparing their bounty under the watchful eyes of professional chefs. It’s only a matter of time before they have us doing the dishes, or picking up the

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10/06/2015 16:55

the fan

general manager’s dry cleaning on the way back from the farmers market. Meanwhile, you have to wonder what the real fishermen are doing while Sheldon and Denise from White Plains are bringing in the morning catch. Sitting on the veranda writing postcards? Getting a massage? And what happened to the guys who used to gather the mushrooms at dawn? Are they the pair on the manicured lawn sipping pastis while moving life-size pawns around a giant chess board? It’s easy to dismiss all this as a fad—a result of our newfound fetish for the “authentic”—but there may be something deeper going on. I mean, are we really so unhappy with our life choices that we’ll trade our days out of the office for an internship somewhere else? Or it may just be that hotels are reacting to the proliferation of apartment-renting sites, where homeowners think nothing of asking paying guests to separate the trash from the recyclables. Take a look at a few Airbnb listings—they’re basically help wanted ads. I saw one the other day where a guy who was going away for three months was hoping guests would look after his pet rabbit. The way things are going, we shouldn’t be too surprised to touch down at the airport and get a ping

on our smartphones—a reminder from our hosts of an upcoming PTA meeting. Yet the working holiday trend shows no sign of abating. Clearly, there are plenty of people who feel fulfilled running somebody else’s errands, but it seems to me there is a serious problem brewing. Fact is, we don’t know how to switch off any more. We have lost the art of doing absolutely nothing. And, as a result, we are going nuts. You can see this collective insanity in the rise of farming holidays, which are essentially forced labor camps with a hefty bill at the end. As one vacation company’s brochure puts it: “Expect to get your hands dirty and help with chores—milking cows, bottle-feeding lambs, collecting eggs, mucking out stables and more.” Never mind the complete absence of flip-flops in this scenario; it’s the word “more” that worries me. What could that possibly mean? Darning the farmer’s socks? Balancing the books? Helping out at the slaughterhouse? Just thinking about it makes me want to lie down. Berlin-based writer BOYD FARROW would like to announce the launch of his own experiential vacation company, which he is calling “Get Me a Beer, Would You?”

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10/06/2015 16:55

A HEMISPHERES PROMOTION

CANYON DO IT? Chihuahua, in northwest Mexico, has its fair share of camera-worthy scenery— from tree-covered mountains, to deep canyons. See it all from a unique perspective as you fly down zip lines at the Copper Canyon Adventure Park This summer, test your nerves at the Copper Canyon Adventure Park in Chihuahua, Mexico. The park covers five kilometers of canyon scenery and comprises an exhilarating seven-stop zip line and two hanging bridges. A definite favorite for adrenaline junkies, this day out also comes with picturesque views over the villages Areponápuchi and Divisadero in Mexico’s Copper Canyon (a name that comes from the stunning greenish copper hue of the canyon walls). Daredevil Laura James says, “During my visit I tried lots of activities that were definitely challenging, such as ascending through an iron way, rappelling and plunging into ‘Tarzan’s Jump’. I also had unforge able experiences while camping on the mountain and exploring rugged roads. The view from the restaurant, which has glass floors, was spectacular. I also got the chance to ride in the world’s third-longest cable car—it measures three kilometres with no supporting towers in the middle.” Zip-lining through the canyon “I arrived early in the morning at our meeting point to get some basic training and sort my gear out. The guides explained how to glide along the

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zip line cables securely, including how to keep your harness tight and close, using your helmet and protective gloves, and the best position to make you travel fast! “Next thing I know, I’m standing on the platform, with my harness a ached and the tips of my boots hanging over the edge. Once I took off I couldn’t stop myself from screaming, in a good way! I could feel the wind in my face and I pushed my legs forward to gain speed. “I was eager to fly through the 4,100m of steel lines in the course, which is considered the longest in the country. At its highest point it measures 450m—that’s a long way above the canyon floor! I was so excited to get to the 1,113m-long section, where you reach a speed of 80km per hour before starting to decelerate.”

Above: The zip line circuit is the longest in Mexico, using 4,100m of steel lines around the park. It reaches an impressive 80km per hour at one point—not for the faint-hearted Above right: Fly down the Zip Rider at 100km per hour. Because of the seated trolley it’s also the best way to take photos of the stunning canyon scenery

Scaling the Iron Way “One of the most exciting adventures in the Copper Canyon Adventure Park is the Iron Way. This includes rock climbing and rappelling. I never imagined I would rappel down 40m, cross hanging bridges and tackle the unnerving ‘Tarzan Jump’. It all sounds terrifying until you do it. These are all challenges everyone should try.”

03/06/2015 10:31

A HEMISPHERES PROMOTION

“ONE OF THE MOST EXCITING ADVENTURES IN THE COPPER CANYON ADVENTURE PARK IS THE IRON WAY. I NEVER IMAGINED I WOULD RAPPEL DOWN 40M, CROSS HANGING BRIDGES AND TACKLE THE UNNERVING ‘TARZAN JUMP’”

Flying down the Zip Rider “Once I’d finished the activities in the Iron Way, I tried the Zip Rider—the longest in the world, measuring 2,550m. Unlike the zip lines, you comfortably sit and glide along the steel cables in a harnessed trolley—it also meant I was hands-free to take lots of photos. The Zip Rider reaches speeds higher than 100km per hour. I spread my arms out and could pretend I was flying, it definitely feels that way.” A view from the cable car “Once I’d landed at the Zip Rider base platform I hiked 800m up to the cable car station. I got some brilliant shots of the Urique Canyon from here. The main Divisadero cable car station is just a short walk from the train station, right next to the Hanging Rock lookout point. The Copper Canyon Adventure Park cable cars have two cabins that each fit 60 people. I captured some amazing images from here, including an impressive panoramic view of the junction of the three canyons: the Barranca del Cobre, the Tatarecua, and the Urique.”

Above: The Iron Way looks terrifying, but don’t worry, you’re strapped in! Try your hand at rock climbing, rappelling and hanging bridges Below le : Take the cable car from the main Divisadero station and get panoramic views over the three canyons

+1 888 654 4 0394 ah-chihuahua ahua

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08/06/2015 14:30

hemi culture

THE MONTH AHEAD

ART

My Fairest Lady DOUGLAS KIRKLAND

Hollywood’s most elegant icon is ready for her close-up

ondon’s National Portrait Gallery is brimming with grand old paintings of British royals, from Henry VIII to Victoria to Elizabeth II. But this summer, the most regal face to grace these walls will be that of Audrey Hepburn. The elegant Hollywood star—who got her start as a chorus girl just around the corner in the West End—is being honored this month with a retrospective, “Portraits of an Icon,” featuring 60-plus shots taken

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JULY 2015

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by some of the 20th century’s most famous photographers, like Richard Avedon and Cecil Beaton, alongside vintage magazine covers and film stills. Of course, Hepburn’s timeless beauty fits right in among the kings and queens, and while they’re not quite the royal crown and scepter, the mod Givenchy duds and Oliver Goldsmith shades in the above 1966 Douglas Kirkland photo make for chic regalia. —NICHOLAS DERENZO (JULY 2)

03/06/2015 09:15

hemi culture

IL DIVO The 74-year-old tenor isn’t resting on his many laurels

MUSIC

They’re Playing Our Song Three new cover albums prove imitation truly is the sincerest form of flattery

MUSIC

Plácido Domingo Can’t Stop, Won’t Stop After 57 years in the opera business, the legendary singer shows no sign of slowing down fter a career spanning more than half a century (and about A 150 roles), legendary Spanish tenor Plácido Domingo continues to live by his motto: “If I rest, I rust.” This month, the 74-year-old will perform in Germany, Spain and Austria, as well as overseeing his Operalia competition for budding stars at London’s Royal Opera House, and preparing to take the Woody Allen–produced “Gianni Schicchi” to Los Angeles in the fall. “I have been lucky to have such a long career, but I don’t expect to be singing 400 years from now,” he says, sounding as if he hasn’t quite ruled the possibility out.

W hile age hasn’t diminished Domingo’s passion for opera, it has changed the kinds of roles he gets, which are baritone rather than tenor now, and increasingly tend to be “fathers or bad guys” rather than romantic leads. Those parts will go to the generation of singers that Domingo is helping to nurture through the various foundations he has put together. Not that he has any plans to step aside just yet. “This is a great privilege that has been given to me,” he says of a career that has established him as one of the most influential opera singers of all time. “Making music is what I love the most.” —JOHN SCOTT LEWINSKI

Even though I had been preparing to be president, I was genuinely surprised when the Episcopal bishop from Minnesota pronounced ‘blessings on President Carter.’ The phrase ‘President Carter’ was startling to me, but I was ready and eager to assume the responsibility, and we looked forward to life in the White House. My ﬁrst ofﬁcial act was to pardon the draft evaders from the Vietnam War. QUICK LIT

WATKINS FAMILY HOUR WATKINS FAMILY HOUR Since 2002, siblings Sara and Sean Watkins (two-thirds of the band Nickel Creek) have played monthly family jams at LA’s hallowed Largo at the Coronet club. This month, alongside collaborators Fiona Apple and Tom Petty and the Heartbreakers keyboardist Benmont Tench, they release an eclectic mix of folk-tinged covers of tracks by Fleetwood Mac and Bob Dylan—plus a deep cut from the soundtrack of the 1973 Disney cartoon Robin Hood. (JULY 24) NATALIE IMBRUGLIA MALE The Aussie pop starlet returns with her first studio album in six years, a gender-reversed lineup of tunes popularized by male singers or male-fronted bands, both classic (Neil Young, The Cure) and current (Zac Brown Band, Daft Punk). Note that this isn’t exactly new territory for Imbruglia: Her 1997 megahit, “Torn,” was a cover of a song by LA-based alt rock band Ednaswap. (JULY 28)

MARIO ANZUONI/REUTERS/CORBIS (DOMINGO); C FLANIGAN/FILMMAGIC (BRIDWELL); FRANK HOENSCH/REDFERNS VIA GETTY IMAGES (IRON & WINE)

THE MONTH AHEAD

IRON & WINE AND BEN BRIDWELL SING INTO MY MOUTH Angel-voiced folkies Sam Beam (of Iron & Wine) and Ben Bridwell (of Band of Horses) make beautiful music together on this 12-track cover album. While some song choices—like Pete Seeger’s “Coyote, My Little Brother”—make perfect rootsy sense for these bearded tunesmiths, others, by Sade and Talking Heads, are gleefully out of left field. This month, you can also catch them harmonizing live at the Newport Folk Festival. (JULY 17)

—From A Full Life: Reﬂections at Ninety, the new autobiography from the 39th President of the United States, author of more than two dozen books and Nobel Peace Prize laureate, Jimmy Carter. (JULY 7)

045_HEMI0715_CULTURE_Month.indd 46

03/06/2015 09:15

books

Seuss, Unleashed hen he died in 1991, Theodor Seuss Geisel—Dr. Seuss—left behind a trove of unpublished notes and sketches in his La Jolla, California, home. Two decades later, his widow, Audrey, found the manuscript, believed to have been written W between 1958 and 1962, of what was to become his latest posthumous book, What Pet Should I Get?, out this month. In honor of Seuss’ imaginative menagerie, we evaluate his beastly creations to see which would, in fact, make the perfect pet. —ND (JULY 28)

ONE FISH, TWO FISH, RED FISH, BLUE FISH PRO Low-

maintenance?

THE LORAX

THING 1 AND THING 2

PRO Who can resist those

PRO Two zany pets for the

chubby whiskered cheeks and Groucho brows? CON Gets kind of preachy if you forget to recycle

price of one! CON Who wants even one of these homewrecking maniacs?

CON Like all

fish, they’re a bit boring—so boring, in fact, they don’t even have names

YERTLE THE TURTLE PRO Umm…? CON This

MR. FOX

despotic king of the pond literally uses a stack of his own subjects— fellow turtles— as a throne

PRO There’s

HORTON THE ELEPHANT PRO Impeccable sense

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no sublimer rhymer than Mister TongueTwister CON His constant rhyming proves so annoying that his friend Mr. Knox stuffs him in a bottle

books

Net Gains nternet celebrity. Cyberstar. Blogebrity. The names for popular online Ipersonalities are many, but the formula for Internet fame is, according to Miranda Sings—a character played by the comedian Colleen Ballinger— simple. The inept, fame-obsessed Miranda, who boasts 4 million YouTube subscribers, 400 million pageviews and a new book, Self Help (out from Gallery Books this month), sent Hemispheres an email breaking down the essentials for getting noticed on the World Wide Web . —ERIN BRADY (JULY 21)

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JULY 2015

045_HEMI0715_CULTURE_Month.indd 47

1. Brains “You have to have smart. I have been at the top of my class, class precident and homecoming queen every year for 23 years. Being home scooled is grate.” 2. Talent “People like it when you are good at stuff. a lot of celebrities are at means that triple threats. that ce, and act. I they can sing, dance, ause I can am a 5-threat because do it all: acting, singing, dancing, modeling, magic. ing. so And now book writing. hreat.” actually I’m a 6-threat. 3. Booty ve “Of course you have to show off your

THE SNEETCHES PRO Customizable,

available in both starred and unstarred varieties CON Prone to bias-based warfare

THE CAT IN THE HAT PRO Chatty; y;

great fashion ion sense CON His hat at contains 26 other nestingdoll-style cats, which h makes you u an instant cat lady/ gentleman n

booty if you want to make it online. No one is gonna want to watch you if you aren’t bootiful” 4. Viral Videos “Viral videos spread relly fast like warts. If you want a lot of people to no who you are very quikly just make some viral videos like I did and people will like you.” 5. Threaten w that one thing “Just a warning wi have to deal with as you will onl a online celebrity is haters. Hat Haters are jealous. They are pe people who are born with n viral videos, booty, no b brains, or talents. Use your threaten skills and tell them to BACK OFF.”

03/06/2015 09:15

hemi culture

THE MONTH AHEAD

bullet points

For Those About to Rock (Again) Denis Leary gets the band back together in his new musical sitcom

• ON GETTING THE LOOK RIGHT “Some of these guys pick a look, especially in Johnny’s case, that’s the look that made them almost famous. In his mind, he’s never giving that look up, because if he does, it’s like he compromised on what he originally thought was going to work—even though it never worked! So he’s still walking around with the David Bowie/Rod Stewart haircut and snakeskin pants.”

• ON BAND DYNAMICS “Coming out of Boston in the late ’70s/early ’80s, there were a lot of

045_HEMI0715_CULTURE_Month.indd 48

HAIR DON’T Denis Leary rocks a Bowie-inspired ’do as Johnny Rock

guys—Aerosmith, The Cars—who we all knew who became big rock stars. I got to see the band dynamics, because I was hanging around with them. They’re like these big dysfunctional families, and it’s always the lead singer and the guitar player who are just like bickering parents. I think people are going to be surprised at how much of that stuff is like being in a real family—only worse, because there’s ego and fame involved.”

• ON STAND-UP VS. ROCK “In stand-up comedy, it’s a strange individual mentality, because everybody’s on their own when they’re up on stage. So when guys don’t make it and were hell-bent on being famous, they tend to blame the world and not necessarily take a good look in the mirror. I find that in rock ’n’ roll, there’s a family there, so they want to blame everyone else in the family for what went wrong. And then they look at Dave Grohl—or whoever the guys

were they knew that got famous—and say, ‘That should have been me!’”

• ON MISPLACED NOSTALGIA “I think Johnny is a guy that says, ‘Oh man, in the old days, it was really great.’ For me, personally, I just think it’s never been greater in terms of music and availability. I totally understand the attraction to vinyl and all that stuff, but to me—it’s probably because of my kids, who are 25 and 23—I just keep moving forward like a shark with music. The more digital, all this technology, it’s fantastic. I’ve never been able to get music faster, and I think some of the young bands are the best bands.”

• ON THE NYC ROCK SCENE “I’m old enough to have been through CBGB, man, and I got to be honest with you: CBGB was a horrible place. But they had good bands, so nobody cared! That’s the story of rock ’n’ roll and comedy: For us, it’s not the places but the people.”

PATRICK HARBRON/FX/FX NETWORKS

n his new FX sitcom “Sex & Drugs & Rock & Roll,” Denis Leary stars as Johnny Rock, the washed-up lead singer of early ’90s band The Heathens, who never quite hit it big due to the aforementioned sex and drugs—and booze and egos and in-fighting. In fact, the band self-destructed so spectacularly that they split up on the very day their critically acclaimed debut album dropped. The story picks up 25 years later, when a daughter he never knew existed shows up with an offer: She’ll pay Johnny an obscene amount of cash if he makes amends with guitarist Flash (John Corbett) and they reunite as her songwriting team and backing band. With guest appearances by Leary’s real-life rock star friends (including Dave Grohl and Joan Jett) and original songs co-written by the comedian himself, the show offers a true insider take on the ins and outs of the rock world. Here, Leary dishes on band family dynamics, his character’s over-the-top fashion choices and his decided lack of rock ’n’ roll nostalgia. —ND (JULY 16)

JULY 2015 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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BRIGHT IDEAS INNOVATION

BUSINESS

GADGETRY

how it’s done

A Shape-Shifting House that Transforms with the Seasons onstructing an energy-efficient, eco-friendly house can pose a unique challenge: An abode C that’s perfectly suited to one time of year (say, with tiny windows to keep out the cold in the wintertime) suddenly becomes inefficient once the seasons turn. But who says a house needs to be static? Not London-based architects David BenGrünberg and Daniel Woolfson of the D*Haus Company, who have designed the D*Dynamic, a shape-shifting home that opens and closes on itself to create eight unique configurations, each designed to take advantage of the conditions of the changing seasons. Set on a series of circular tracks, the flexible, origami-like house collapses and expands like a flower blossoming and closing throughout the day to take advantage of the sunlight. This year, the first D*Dynamic house is set to be completed in Cambridgeshire, England, and its easily replicable format could prove to be an even bigger gamechanger in places with larger winter-to-summer meteorological swings. Here’s how the architectural development will unfold. —NICHOLAS DERENZO 50

050_HEMI0715_HOW ITS DONE.indd 50

The D*Haus blueprint takes its shape from a puzzle created in 1908 by English mathematician Henry Ernest Dudeney, who devised a way to split a square into four irregular shapes that could be rearranged perfectly into an equilateral triangle. These pieces are then connected by hinges, so they can rotate into place on circular rails.

In the winter, the house is shaped like a compact, insulated square (think of it as a tightly closed ﬂower), with only small windows on the facade, making it particularly well-equipped to trap and store heat. In the warmer months, the house can “blossom,” transforming into various triangles and irregular shapes with greater surface area. Interior glass walls swing to become external facades, allowing in more sunlight and ventilation during seasons when you’d want to be more engaged with the Great Outdoors.

The house can also be programmed to change its shape throughout the day—for energy efﬁciency as well as for aesthetics. Depending on the house’s location, it can rotate along its axis to allow a resident to, say, wake up to the sunrise and then spend the evening watching the sunset. While the D*Dynamic is often compared to a blossoming ﬂower, perhaps an even better analogy is a lazy housecat, stretching out and curling up in a sunny spot to feel the coziest and most comfortable.

ILLUSTRATIONS BY JAMESON SIMPSON • JULY 2015 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

03/06/2015 09:16

bright ideas

industry

Your Ride, Sir The recession may be behind us, but afﬂuent consumers still want to appear thrifty—albeit at inﬂated prices BY BOYD FARROW

2009, during the global economic downturn, the U.K.’s Mail ran the headline “Bike sales jump 50 per cent IasnDaily recession inspires people to cycle to work,” citing a trend that had taken root in cities around the world. Six years on, urban commuters seem intent on staying true to their trusty bikes—or, at least to hugely expensive versions of them. Matt Holland, a salesman at the upscale London bike builder Condor, says it barely registers these days when a customer wants to drop the equivalent of $16,000 on a pair of wheels. “We probably sell one of our top models every week,” he says. “Then there’s all the kit to buy—the specialist clothing, the lights. It’s pretty competitive on the streets.” This scenario has become familiar in other fashion-forward cities, where Pashley Carrier Cycles leave valets twiddling their thumbs and folded-up Bromptons are handed in at coat-checks. Millennials fetishize this low-rent mode of transportation the way their parents once drooled over roadsters. It’s not just bikes that are getting a post-slump upgrade. More and more, restaurants are serving up beggar’s food at banker’s prices: In London, city workers tuck into $20 fish-stick sandwiches; the trendiest food in Manhattan right now is bone broth, a quintessential peasant meal. And when it comes to presentation, the chicest eateries are eschewing fine china in favor of slabs of wood or slate or manhole covers from the former Rust Belt.

The well-heeled people eating at these places, meanwhile, are starting to dress accordingly. A decade ago, Burberry was reborn as a high-end designer brand. With its new Patchwork, Pattern & Prints collection, the British firm now resembles the Little Fashion House on the Prairie. It’s as if, having gotten used to making do during the lean years, the newly prosperous are unwilling or unable to break old habits, and the luxury brand industry has quickly caught on. Thanks to some mysterious marketing alchemy, the affordable has become aspirational. As a JWTIntelligence 2015 Trend Report points out, even the humble tin can has undergone a makeover, with boutique graphic designers producing “sleek food-packaging devices” to grace gourmet market shelves. Meanwhile, Airbnb, that paragon of post–Lehman Brothers frugality, is quietly moving away from its couchsurfing roots. The home-renting service recently launched its own glossy travel mag, and it has created a portal specifically to showcase its fancier lodgings, which, of course, do not come cheap. “It is not that Millennials are cutting back on spending,” says David Campbell, who heads the hospitality division at financial services firm BDO. “What has changed is an emphasis on quality rather than the trimmings.” But a desire for quality is only half the story.The marketing of all aspirational goods relies on a dual appeal: what a product can do for a person, and what that product says about a person—or,

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JULY 2015 • ILLUSTRATION BY CHRISTIAN NORTHEAST

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10/06/2015 09:12

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in this instance, what it doesn’t say about him. Because, given the role wealthy fund managers played in bringing the global economy to its knees, no one wants to be the guy parking his Bimmer outside the flashiest joint in town. It’s much better, says Mitch Baranowski, co-founder of Brooklyn-based brand consultancy BBMG, to pull up to the fish-stick joint on a brand new Cervélo bicycle. “We are definitely at the beginning of a new order,” Baranowski says. “You get on an expensive bicycle, and you’re the person who wants to save the planet and look after your health. It is no surprise that businesses are looking to leverage that.” But what exactly are these businesses leveraging? An aversion to ostentation or an appetite for the better things in life? The answer is a little of both. Splashing $500 on a bicycle helmet or $40 on a burger does tend to ensure that these purchases will be high quality, but it also creates the illusion of financial common sense, the kind that prevailed during the darkest days of the recession. In this sense, the trend is rooted in nostalgia. One successful seller on the peer-topeer retailer Etsy is Farouche, a company based in Santa Cruz, California, which offers prints of inspirational messages

BOYD FARROW is a writer based in Berlin, where any bicycle that still has two wheels is considered a luxury.

JULY CROSSWORD ANSWERS

this month’s amazing fact

iPhone, Therefore iAm You may have suspected as much, but you and your smartphone are in a pretty ugly codependent relationship. In a study published in the Journal of ComputerMediated Communication, lead author Russell Clayton, a Ph.D. student at the University of Missouri School of Journalism, suggests that we’re so attached to our iPhones that being away from them can cause a form of separation anxiety with real-world physiological and cognitive consequences. To test this theory, researchers hooked volunteers up to wireless blood pressure cuffs and had them complete a word-search puzzle while near their iPhones. (Participants were told they were testing the reliability of the cuffs.) Blood pressure and heart rate were recorded, and the volunteers reported their anxiety levels. After the first round, they were told that their iPhones were causing Bluetooth interference with the cuffs and had to be placed on the other side of the room and not answered. When the subjects resumed puzzle-solving, the phones were called. During this round, heart rate, blood pressure and anxiety all rose, and word-search ability plummeted. As Clayton puts it: “The results from our study suggest that iPhones are capable of becoming an extension of ourselves such that when separated, we experience a lessening of ‘self’ and a negative physiological state.” Losing your phone, in a sense, is tantamount to losing your head. —NICHOLAS DERENZO

051_HEMI0715_INDUSTRY.indd 52

in old-school fonts. An especially popular item is “Make Do and Mend,” from a World War II pamphlet issued by the British Ministry of Information. Farouche makes this directive available as a giclée “printed on archival paper with high-quality pigment inks,” which will set you back about $20. Or you can print up an array of similar posters from the Internet, which will cost you nothing at all.

JULY 2015 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

08/06/2015 13:52

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056_HEMI0715_3PD.indd 56

03/06/2015 09:19

OSLO WHEN PEOPLE TALK ABOUT A CITY’S GOLDEN AGE, they’re generally referring to the past. Oslo, though, is hitting the heights right now. The Norwegian capital has always had its appeal—natural beauty, courteous citizens, cultural heritage—but it’s never been considered a hotbed of excitement and innovation. Until now. Over the last few decades, Oslo has undergone a massively ambitious revitalization project, bankrolled by Norway’s oil reserves and driven by a broad effort to forge a lasting national identity. The city today is bursting with groundbreaking architecture, art and cuisine, its citizens brimming with optimism and energy. People say this sort of thing all the time, but with Oslo it’s true: There has never been a better time to be here. dreamily across the water that is now claiming both my body temperature and my dignity. Historically, high-end hospitality in Oslo has tended In which Chris attempts two difficult tasks: paddleboarding toward the Baroque—giltwood mirrors and looming and understanding the Norwegian government chandeliers. The Thief, with its retro-futuristic décor, is the city’s first true boutique hotel, set in the city’s first boutique neighborhood: Tjuvholmen (Thief Island), a tiny peninsula that was a shabby port a decade ago but now bristles with O HERE I AM, IN OSLO. oil-money architecture, including Renzo Piano’s sweeping Actually, that’s not completely true. Strictly speakwood-and-glass Astrup Fearnley Museum. ing, I’m a few feet offshore, up to my nostrils in If the local infatuation with Oslofjord is tied to friluftsliv fjord water. Nearby, a classical pianist named Aksel (the Norwegian love of nature), then the Tjuvholmen developKolstad is offering advice. “Grab the board!” he is ment is part of a more recent proclivity. “We have endured a hollering. He is also laughing, which doesn’t seem right. cultural ice age, and now we are starting to blossom,” Kolstad Kolstad, a keen paddleboarder, has taken me for a turn says, sitting at a grand piano in his performance space near the around Oslofjord, and I’ve gone in. “I’m going in,” I’d Thief. “Oslo is a glass globe—you shake it, and it snows art.” announced earlier, a moment before I toppled into the clear, Kolstad is not your everyday classical musicold water. A small crowd has gathered to watch cian. “I’ll be playing Mozart, and I’ll suddenly flex as I dig my fingernails into a boardwalk, unable my chest like this,” he says, making his pectoral to haul myself up, unwilling to let go. Left: the Tjuvholmen district, on Oslofjord; muscles jiggle. But the element of slapstick in How different it was a few hours ago. I woke above: a statue of King his concerts is also part of a local tradition. “Oslo up in a stylish hotel room nearby, amid puppyKarl Johan in front of is a city of eccentrics; it’s filled with characters.” soft pillows and dark wood finishes. Across from the Royal Palace Still damp, I set out on an exploratory stroll. my bed was a sliding door and a balcony. After in Slottsparken Earlier, I plotted my course on a map: my first grappling for a while with the Minority Report stop, Akershus Fortress, looked to be about a coffee machine, I stood out there and gazed DAY ONE

056_HEMI0715_3PD.indd 57

03/06/2015 09:19

1 NORWAY’S RANK IN THE UNITED NATIONS HUMAN DEVELOPMENT INDEX

THREE PERFECT DAYS

half hour away on foot. But Oslo is smaller than the maps suggest. The fort stands across the fjord—you could throw a comedic classical pianist and hit it from here. If it weren’t for all the stuff to gawp at along the way—the jostling artworks, the shipyard shops at Aker Brygge, the islands dotting the fjord—I could easily slosh there in 10 minutes or less. I reach the mainland and City Hall, a redbrick, twintowered monolith that could be a Bronx housing project but for the mytho-heroic reliefs dotting its facade (and the fact that Nobel Peace Prize ceremonies are held within). I stand for a bit on the bustling waterfront, watching an elderly woman in Romany dress bashing a tambourine, then head for Akershus. Inside, the fort is a tangle of undulant paths, soaring curtain walls and crumbling archways. Two spires stand above it all, part of a 17th-century reconstruction after old Oslo, razed by fire, was abandoned and the land around the fort settled. Over 700 years, various parts have been demolished, rebuilt and embellished, resulting in a helterskelter of styles—today, it stands as a symbol of Norway’s efforts to forge its own identity after centuries of subjugation. I have more history in store a couple of blocks away at Engebret Café, whose regulars have included Edvard Grieg, Henrik Ibsen and Edvard Munch. I order the cured herring, which, owner Kay Johnsen says, should really be washed

“THERE’S A LOT OF GREAT NEW ARCHITECTURE IN OSLO, BUT I’M HOPING WE DON’T TURN INTO DUBAI. SOMETIMES I THINK, YOU KNOW, ‘DUDE, HOW ABOUT PLANTING A LITTLE BIT OF GRASS?’” AKSEL KOLSTAD

Classical pianist

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down with an aquavit aperitif. “Herring and strong liquor. Very traditional.” I ask if I can try the grilled whale. I’ve always imagined that whale was what sailors ate before they started on their crewmates—a second-to-last resort—but this (minke, culled for scientific purposes, I am told) is fantastic: gamy and tender, not a hint of blubber. As I exit, Johnsen shows me a framed letter from Munch, written after he’d been kicked out of the café for drunkenness. An apology? “No,” Johnsen says, laughing. “It’s blaming everybody but himself.” Luckily, my next stop is close by. Built in the 1690s, Oslo Cathedral isn’t the grandest religious structure in the world, but it is impressive, its blocky clock tower looming over a busy flower market. There’s an organ recital inside, so I take a pew and examine Hugo Lous Mohr’s trippy ceiling art, which includes an image of a man battering a sad-looking dragon with an inverted crucifix. Next, I waddle up pedestrianized Karl Johans Street, past H&M and Mango and out onto a broad promenade flanked by ornate 18th-century townhouses and a clutter of landmarks: the National Theater, the National Gallery, the Royal Palace. I stop to gaze at the stylistic mishmash of the Storting (parliament) building, then head inside to watch Norway’s politicians debate the issues of the day. As I enter, a guard tells me that I need to empty my pockets into a tray. Him: “The money we keep!” Me: “No wonder Norway is so wealthy!” Both: “Ha! Ha!” Earlier, Kolstad told me there’s a gloomy streak underlying a lot of Norwegian humor, but there’s also what he described as “pillow comedy” (so called because “you want to put a pillow over your face”), an example of which would be a guy climbing a tree to retrieve his kid’s kite and meeting the gaze of a woman, naked, sunbathing in the yard next door: “It’s not what it seems!” I don’t understand what the politicians in the red-andgold rotunda are saying, but their tone suggests it might be something pressing, like replacing the soap dispensers in the bathrooms. I sneak out and make my way back to Thief Island, heralded by City Hall’s 49-bell carillon, which belts out a tune that drowns out the gulls and street performers. After a quick nap, I sink into an armchair in the Thief ’s swish eatery Fru K, next to a Philippe Starck lamp shaped like an assault rifle, and receive a succession of dishes: salmon caviar with horseradish and lemon curd; turbot soup with Jerusalem artichoke; bleak roe with cabbage and popcorn crackling; steak tartare with Clockwise from oyster emulsion. It’s a splendid top left: the Grand meal, washed down with some Hotel; Einar Holthe splendid wine, all of which sets me at Fuglen; the odd up for my big night out: standing relocated houses of on my balcony, looking out at the Bygdøy; Vigeland Oslofjord, its surface burnished by Sculpture Park the moon. Man, I think, taking a swig of beer, that water looks cold.

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THREE PERFECT DAYS

1048 YEAR KING HARALD HARDRADA (“THE LAST GREAT VIKING”) ESTABLISHED OSLO AS A TRADING POST

“OSLO HAS ALWAYS BEEN A VERY SAFE CITY. YOU CAN LEAVE A SUITCASE OF MONEY AT THE TRAIN STATION AND COME BACK AN HOUR LATER AND IT WILL HAVE BEEN MOVED TO THE SIDE, SO NOBODY TRIPS OVER IT.” CHRISTIAN RINGNES

Businessman and founder, Ekeberg Sculpture Park

DAY TWO

In which Chris sees Norway’s f inest artworks and eats its most artfully constructed food

REAKFAST TODAY IS IN THE Grand Café, at the Grand Hotel. This may be the most famous room in Oslo, frequented by pretty much every notable person who ever set foot in the city (I pass Michael Moore on the way in). On one wall is a mural, circa 1928, depicting the café’s former patrons, including Munch, who once made a scene here over an unpaid bill. I help myself to a healthy plate of salmon, salad and rustic bread, followed by a mountain of lardy bacon and sausage. The Grand occupies the other end of the hipness scale from the Thief. Set in a stately building on Karl Johans Street, the

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hotel opened in 1874 and remains resolutely old school. I’ve checked into a suite that is a paragon of gentility, exemplified by the French windows overlooking the street. It’s all I can do to resist waving regally at the rabble below. My goal this morning is to get to the National Gallery early, in order to beat the crowds. It works: I spend 20 minutes entirely alone in a hall of Munch masterpieces, including “The Scream.” Nearby are his reclining “Madonna” and the inexplicably creepy “Girls on the Pier.” Magic. From here, I stroll through the Royal Palace grounds to the city’s tony West End, then cut left onto Hegdehaugsveien Street, home to upscale retailers like Tara, where you can pick up a pair of graffiti-covered jeans for $1,300. Soon, I enter Vigeland Sculpture Park, via a bridge bearing a procession of disconcertingly realistic bronze statues of naked people, wrestling, running or just standing arms akimbo. The most famous is a baby stamping his foot in petulant fury. Another depicts a man kicking a small child across the floor. Ah, um… It took sculptor Gustav Vigeland 20 years to create the 200-plus works that make up this installation, which opened in the mid-1940s.The centerpiece is the 46-foot granite tower “Monolith,” comprised of 121 squirming, heaped-up men, women and children, a work that is said to speak of divine inspiration but which to me seems fantastically sinister. Taxi! My next stop is across town, at Ekeberg Sculpture Park, opened two years ago by billionaire Christian Ringnes. Set on a high hill (Munch got his inspiration for “The Scream” up here), the park is formed of 31 works scattered over 64 acres. I find Ringnes rummaging around in Salvador Dalí’s “Venus de Milo with Drawers.” “People put stuff in them,” he says, pulling out a wooden crucifix: “A cross!” Ekeberg has not been without its critics. It has been derided as a crass vanity project, a violation of the park’s natural beauty; the overall theme is a celebration of women, which to some smacks of condescension. “We had a big fight to set this up,” Ringnes says. “Now, people love it.” We set out on a tour of the sculptures, Ringnes striding effortlessly uphill as I wheeze pitifully behind. Even so, the place is a joy—there’s something especially captivating about the union of natural splendor and artworks like “Peeing Woman,” a bronze statue of a squatting figure, pants at half mast. “She should actually be peeing,” says Ringnes, frowning. “We had a period where she was doing it too much. Right now, we’re having a dry period.” As we make our way downhill, an elderly woman stops Ringnes to tell him she is “very happy with the park.” “Not the artworks?” he replies. “Not the pornographic one,” she says, referring to a video installation that includes a nude woman waving a flag. “Maybe you shouldn’t have spent your money on that.” Ringnes doesn’t seem to mind ind the criticism. “This park is part of something new,” he says. “If you’d have come to Oslo 20 years ago, it was kind of boring. The city was clean and safe, but there wasn’t Bleak roe with popcorn crackling from Fru K

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Built in 1200, the Norwegian Folk Museumâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Gol Stave Church is littered with eerie carvings

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THREE PERFECT DAYS

SMALL WONDER THE BIGGEST TINY BOTTLE COLLECTION IN THE WORLD

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“If there’s ever a fire here, it’ll be really lively,” says Christian Ringnes of his Mini Bottle Gallery, which displays 12,500 bottles of the sort found on airplanes and in minibars, with 40,000 more in storage. It is, he says, the world’s largest collection of tiny bottles. Ringnes—who also founded Ekeberg Sculpture Park—got his first bottle when he was six, given to him by his father,

who’d improvised after returning from a business trip without gifts. “That one is special,” he says. “I really love that one.” He also loves the Bugs Bunny one, the Eiffel Tower– shaped one, the hand-blown one. He has one from 1894 (the oldest in his collection) and one that’s worth $6,700 (the priciest). Then there’s the presentation: the bordello, the

circus scene, the chamber of horrors (with cackling skeleton, accessed by slide), the Scotsman with the billowing kilt. Ringnes opened his museum 11 years ago, with high expectations. “We had a grand opening, with red ropes and so on,” he says. “I looked outside and there were maybe five people. I guess mini bottle collecting is not that big a thing.”

JESS BRONK (MINI BOTTLE GALLERY)

much happening. We are living through some kind of heightened time.” Another example of Oslo’s revival is Maaemo, the first two-Michelin-starred Nordic restaurant, located a short tram ride from Ekeberg, overlooking the Barcode Project, a strip of hypermodern commercial buildings. But people don’t come here for the view. After I’ve been seated at one of the eatery’s eight tables, a waitress lays out the ground rules, which include a ban on any ingredients that cannot be found in Norway: “No pepper, no lemon or lime…” Then we’re off. I count 23 items on the set menu, starting with a single sprig of pickled salsify, served on a large bed of juniper branches. Just as I’m about to start nibbling one of the twigs, another course appears: a foil-thin sliver of wild duck, cured for seven months and served on a square of crumpled paper. IRAM HAQ Filmmaker So it goes, a procession of dishes that fall somewhere between molecular gastronomy “IT’S DIFFICULT TO TALK ABOUT THE LOCAL CHARACTER, and an episode of “Survivor”: a smidgen of BECAUSE WE ARE TWO DIFFERENT PEOPLE: IN THE chicken liver and elderflower on a patch of WINTER, WE ARE HUNCHED UP; IN THE SUMMER, WE SMILE.” lawn; nubs of frozen cheese and vendace roe on a rock; raw oyster emulsion atop a diorama of seashells. Of course, Michelin stars are not with tiny, colorful bathhouses, some with geese lazing among won on presentation alone—the tastes and the trees, gray cliffs rising behind them. The sun is shining. textures here are inspired—but half the fun is anticipating Fishing boats sail by. This, I have decided, is the only way what kind of madness will come next.The big showstopper is to experience these waters. the langoustine, served on a pile of spruce above dry ice. The After a quick spritz at the Grand, I stroll into a nearby grid waiter introduces a pine infusion, and a pungent fog courses of streets, the hub of the city’s 17th-century revival. There are across the table, which is so delightful I yelp. some lovely old buildings here, not least the 1640 pile housing In terms of experiences, it’ll be hard to top sour milk Statholderens Mat & Vinkjeller, set in a vaulted cellar below sprinkled with dried reindeer heart, so I decide to wind down its Michelin-starred counterpart, Statholdergaarden. I have on a cruise of the fjord. To get to the dock, in front of City a tapas plate to start, which includes a rich oxtail empanada, Hall, I make my way west along the waterfront, pausing to quail eggs with noodles, and shrimp with guacamole and stroll up the sloping roof of the Opera House, a huge white pomegranate seeds, followed by a main course of tender lamb structure that looks like a Cubist ocean liner, then watch a free with deliciously nutty couscous. modern ballet performance in its bright lobby. I round off the night with a cocktail at Fuglen, a hip coffee The cruise is a good reminder of why locals love their shop/bar with mismatched vintage furniture that’s for sale. fjord. We meander among scores of islands, some dotted

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93 SQUARE MILES OF FOREST WITHIN OSLO’S CITY LIMITS

Co-owner Einar Holthe shares his thoughts on Oslo while insisting I try every drink on the menu. Having gained independence from Sweden in 1905, he says, Norway is finally reclaiming its identity. “There’s a sense that we belong to our culture now,” he adds. “The streets are coming alive.”

DAY THREE

In which Chris visits Oslo’s hipster quarter and the city’s famed cemetery

START THE DAY WITH A NICE long groan, followed by a few cups of strong coffee. I’m having brunch later at Mathallen, a food hall on the bank of the Akerselva River, so I roust myself from bed and head out into the glare. On my way, I stop at Pentagon, an army surplus shop on Storgata, where I root around among the crossbows, knives and gladiator helmets for a bit before crossing the road to a ramshackle cluster of vintage shops, where I pick up a music poster from the 1950s, at 1970s prices. Soon, I’m heading north along the river, which feels very rural but is also dotted with old industrial buildings

THREE PERFECT DAYS

transformed into studios and galleries. Mathallen, set in a renovated railroad factory, offers everything from fresh seafood to stinky cheese. I have a beef and tomato pie from Hello Good Pie before heading out to explore Grünerløkka. People call Grünerløkka Oslo’s answer to Brooklyn, and you can see why—it is thick with boho bars, retro restaurants and indie fashion outlets. There is also a wonderful sense of anarchic energy. Heading back to the river for a drink at Blå, a trendy music venue, I pass a man carrying a large Styrofoam ear past a couple of punk-rock chicks standing below a junk-glass chandelier, ignoring the spectacle, a few feet away, of a ferret crossing the road. I sit on Blå’s grafittied riverside terrace for a while, nursing a Nøgne Ø pale ale and listening to the water rush by, then head back to Mathallen, where I’m having coffee with the filmmaker Iram Haq. Described by Variety as “one of Europe’s top emerging directors,” Haq grew up in East Oslo’s “Little Pakistan” neighborhood. Her shopkeeper parents were not enamored of her decision to pursue a career in the arts. “It was hard for them to accept,”she says.“They didn’t really understand what I was doing.”It wasn’t only the Pakistani community that would have frowned on her career choice. Before the discovery of oil in the late 1960s, Norway was relatively poor, and its people

Enjoying a pint on the riverside terrace at Blå

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Akershus Fortress, a 700-year-old architectural hodgepodge

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$119,922,600 AMOUNT A VERSION OF EDVARD MUNCH’S “THE SCREAM” SOLD FOR IN 2012

made a virtue of austerity. Eating out was rare, foreign holidays were pretty much unheard of, and young women of Pakistani heritage did not go into the film business. Things are different now, says Haq, but a few traditions remain, such as the age-old emphasis on consensus: “Everyone agrees, even when they don’t.” Later, Haq offers to show me the nearby Vår Frelsers cemetery, which contains the graves of notables such as Ibsen and Munch. To get there, we walk up Telthusbakken, a steep, narrow street lined with the brightly colored wooden cottages that used to be everywhere here. At the top of the street is the austere 12th-century Old Aker Church, but Haq’s attention is elsewhere. “Hello!” she says, pointing her cameraphone at a flat-faced, sunbathing cat. The Vår Frelsers monuments seem oddly modest, given who’s lying beneath them. But Norwegian society prizes humility, even among its more illustrious members. Haq recalls passing then–Prime Minister Jens Stoltenberg in a park: “He said, ‘I read about you in the paper!’ so I said, ‘I read about you, too!’ We laughed. He was normal.” I say goodbye to Haq and head for Damstredet, another cobbled clutter of too-cute-to-be-true wooden houses. But I can’t stand around annoying the residents for too long—Einar Holthe has offered to take me to a must-see attraction on Bygdøy peninsula. We meet in Gamle, a blue-collar eastside neighborhood that’s being colonized by creative types. Our first stop is at Haralds Vaffel (motto: “Everyone Loves Waffles”), a hole in the wall where Harald himself serves us bacon-andblue-cheese waffles followed by a traditional jam. Fortified, we jump in Einar’s car and drive west, to one of Oslo’s weirdest exhibitions. Bygdøy is sometimes called Museum Island, on account of it having a bunch of museums, including the Kon-Tiki Museum, the Viking Ship Museum and the Norwegian Folk Museum. This last one is actually a small town, made up of buildings that have been dismantled and rebuilt here. There are 160 in all, ranging from medieval peasant huts to 19th-century townhouses, the rooms of which have been furnished to reflect the lifestyle of, say, a Victorian-era family, y, or a swinging bachelor circa 1975. impressive is the Gol Stave Church, a pagoda-like Most im wooden built in 1200. Inside it is gloomy, w ooden edifice b with wi faded murals in the apse and tortured faces in the rafters. Resto torations have revealed strange to carvings on its walls, scripts and c Pickled vegetables from Maaemo

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THREE PERFECT DAYS

The ups and downs of Telthusbakken

symbols that, according to the elderly woman keeping watch, have yet to be deciphered. I ask her if she ever finds herself alone in here, and she says yes. “Spooky,” I say, and she huffs. “I am not easily spooked.” Einar drops me off downtown, outside the Hotel Continental, where I’ll be dining at Eik Annen Etage. The restaurant is low-lit, with classical columns and modern art. I sit next to a window overlooking the National Theater, and a friendly Swedish waitress brings me a golden menu. What the heck, I’ll have the full-course: raw marinated halibut with grilled romaine lettuce and horseradish emulsion; smoked salmon with creamed morels; deep fried lamb sweetbreads with wild garlic; slow cooked pork. It’s all good—but that lettuce. From now on, I’m grilling all my salads. I end the night at Etoile, the Grand’s rooftop bar, where you get a real sense of how lovely this city is. As I gaze at the flickering Freia sign next door, a seagull big as a dog lands on a neighboring rooftop and stares me down. For some reason, I’m reminded of a story someone told me earlier, about a local soccer pitch where children play, a field that once “ran with Swedish blood.” There was no malice in the telling of this story, but there was a kind of appreciation. So, yes, Oslo is an unusually lovely city, but it’s a little more complicated than that. Hemispheres executive editor Chris Wright strongly recommends that people who fall into the Oslofjord change their damp trousers before going sightseeing, to avoid unpleasant chafage. BOARDING PASS United offers daily summer ﬂights from its New York hub at Newark Liberty to Oslo, with one-stop connections from destinations throughout the Americas. For more information, visit united.com.

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his past spring, on a Sunday evening, 15 miles south of Clarksdale, Mississippi— where Ike Turner and Sam Cooke were born and Bessie Smith died and Robert Johnson sold his soul to the Devil—a white stretch limousine barreled down a gravel road, kicking up plumes of dust into the golden-hour sky. The limousine passed a tall metal grain bin, bisected a centuries-old cotton field, then pushed over a rise onto a flat wooded landscape before violently turning to the right, thumping over a drainage ditch and clattering to a halt on a lawn. The driver’s-side door swung open, and a tall man stepped out. His feet were clad in alligator leather loafers, his wiry middleweight’s frame was draped in a black suit with scarlet pinstripes, and his head was topped with a curly black wig. Written in reflective letters on the side of the limousine were the words “Robert Bilbo Walker, Blues Legend.”

It was the weekend of Clarksdale’s 12th annual Juke Joint Festival—a citywide blues event named for the hazily legal clubs in which the music was once nourished—and the 78-year-old Walker was tired after playing two gigs in less than 24 hours. But there was no time for rest. Soon after finishing his final show, he had hopped behind the wheel of his limousine (“I don’t like riding in back—no way”) and drove down to his countryside property for a long-planned event: After years of talking and plotting and concrete pouring, he was finally going to open his own juke joint. He called it Wonderlight City. On one side of Walker, there was a field in which he would soon plant soybeans. On the other lay a small artificial pond that he had filled with catfish and bream. And in front of him, a couple of hundred feet off the road, stood the property’s only permanent structure, a rusty old army barracks that Walker had purchased, moved to the site, painted royal blue on two sides, and festooned with Christmas lights. “Lot of work until I get it like I want it,” Walker said. Soon, accompanied by his friend Otis “TCB” Taylor, a Clarksdale cop and moonlighting blues singer, Walker was hooking up a generator and painstakingly repairing the strings of lights that he had draped all over the property. The sun was dropping low on the horizon, the lights began to flicker on, and Walker decided that the hour had come. He ushered his half-dozen guests inside and sat down in a reclining chair, waiting for a larger audience to arrive. The place had the air of a modest but well-appointed garage. Some folding chairs and tables had been placed on the floor. A tattered leather couch sat against one wall. A small self-service bar stood at the far end of the room. Strings of Christmas lights hung from the arched ceiling, bathing the room in an eerie magenta glow. A few more guests arrived, and Walker got down to business. He took off his jacket, revealing scarlet suspenders to go with his scarlet shirt, and grabbed his guitar. Walker’s wife, Audrey, sat down next to him, cradling an electric bass, and Taylor took his spot behind the drums, wielding two bark-covered branches. (Walker had realized shortly after arriving that he had no drumsticks, and Audrey had scoured the woods for suitable substitutes.) With the band in position, Walker’s guitar crackled to life. And after strumming out a few chords, he began to sing: “You go out when you’re ready, and you come home when you please. You just want me when you want me baby, and you think it oughta be all right with me.” Walker was now deep inside the song, B.B. King’s “Ask Me No Questions,” his voice rising and falling sharply, making words like ba-by sound like the refrain of an otherworldly chant. It was the wail of the blues, the raw human cry that

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distinguishes the genuine article from any smoothed-over knockoffs. You can hear that wail in the voice of Charley Patton when he sang “Pony Blues” in 1929, and in the voice of Robert Johnson when he sang “Hellhound on My Trail” in 1937, and in the voice of Muddy Waters when he sang “I Be’s Troubled” in 1941, in his cabin a few miles up the road, at Stovall Plantation. And sitting there, in Wonderlight City, you could still hear it in Walker’s voice. “Oh, but I done got wise to you baby,” he sang, “you’re not the only bird in the sky.” The question was whether that wail would continue, especially here, in the Mississippi Delta, where it had first risen up. The blues has become a universal language, but it evolved out of a very specific way of life. And Walker is one of the very last musicians who experienced all of it. When he sings a line like “My father was a sharecropper, farmed 10 acres of land,” it’s a statement of personal history, not an artistic abstraction. Listening to Walker at Wonderlight City, it was hard not to wonder: Once he and his ilk are gone, will the blues be lost? ’d come to the Delta—that stretch of rich alluvial soil that runs along the Mississippi River from Memphis to Vicksburg—to see whether the blues still had not only a heartbeat but its swagger. It was easy to assume that those age-old songs of woe and mischief—what the critic Robert Palmer celebrated as “deep blues”—were nothing but relics. A month after I visited,

the Delta-born-and-raised blues great B.B. King would die, and nearly all of the other iconic Mississippi bluesmen were already long gone. Most of the original juke joints have closed. The legendary crossroads where Johnson reputedly sold his soul to the Devil is now wedged between a Beer & Bud Mart and a Church’s Chicken. And the blues itself has been part of the DNA of so many other genres—from early rock to the latest hip-hop—that just approaching it can feel closer to scientific inquiry than entertainment. But in Clarksdale and its environs, the blues, after a dormant period, is booming, often in places as unexpected as Wonderlight City. Previously unrecognized musicians from here, now in their 70s and 80s, are cutting albums and playing not only at Red’s Lounge, on Clarksdale’s Sunflower Avenue, but at the Rootsway Festival in Parma, Italy. Younger players like Christone “Kingfish” Ingram are getting national exposure. Tourists from around the world are flocking to town. New restaurants and shops—many blues-related—are occupying the abandoned downtown storefronts. The Juke Joint Festival, which started in 2004, has been a key agent of the revival. Officially a one-day event, the festival in fact stretches over a long spring weekend, from Thursday to Sunday, and encompasses free daytime shows on Clarksdale’s downtown streets, evening performances in venues like Red’s Lounge, and affiliated events, from Q&As with elderly bluesmen at the Delta Blues Museum to pig races and mechanical bull rides. 69

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“It’s half blues festival and half small-town fair, and all about the Delta,” festival co-founder Roger Stolle likes to say. Last year, it attracted roughly 7,000 attendees from 28 foreign countries, 46 U.S. states and 53 Mississippi counties. And while those aren’t quite Coachella numbers, they’re huge for a homegrown event deep in the Mississippi Delta where many of the biggest draws are sparsely recorded octogenarian bluesmen. As the festival got underway this year, Stolle was anticipating a similarly robust crowd. hree days before Walker made his dramatic limousine entrance at Wonderlight City, he was relaxing on his countryside property, sitting in the shade and enjoying the afternoon breeze. It was the only time I would see Walker stripped of his wig, and with his bald head and camouflage cargo pants, he looked like a superhero without his cape. At that moment, he seemed less the peacocking “Bilbo” Walker and more an aging farmer named Robert. “I was born right down the road here,” Walker said. “Right in that field. Me, my uncle, my aunties and my momma. My daddy grew up on that hill right up there. We all was born in this neighborhood.” It wasn’t just Walker’s kin. The area in which we were sitting was where the blues itself grew up. The first historical record we have of what would one day be called the blues comes from a Harvard archaeologist named Charles Peabody, who arrived in Clarksdale in June 1901 to excavate Native American mounds. African-American men from the area were enlisted to do the digging, and as they worked, Peabody heard them sing an “autochthonous music” unlike any he’d ever heard. The more time he spent in the Clarksdale area, the more variations on these alien sounds he noted. In his seminal article, published in The Journal of American FolkLore in 1903, he described hearing one mother singing a lullaby that was “quite impossible to copy, weird in interval and strange in rhythm; peculiarly beautiful.” At the same time that Peabody was documenting the nascent blues, a 5-foot-5-inch-tall teenage prodigy named Charley Patton was mastering its rudiments at Dockery Farms, a plantation that sits 30 miles south of Wonderlight City. Patton would soon become the blues’ first star, popularizing the

music throughout the South and personally teaching a younger generation of musicians, among them Willie Brown, Tommy Johnson and Chester Arthur Burnett, who would come to be known as Howlin’ Wolf. By the time Patton died in 1934—he was thought to be in his mid 40s—the blues was the dominant music of the rural African-American South. Walker was born three years after Patton’s death, on February 19, 1937, but grew up in a world that would have been totally familiar to the original bluesmen. By the age of five, Walker was “pickin’ and choppin’ cotton,” and he first learned music not from any classes, or even older bluesmen, but by plucking a string and then moving a ball across it to form different pitches. “It was like putting a slide on a guitar—the same thing,” explained Walker. Soon, he had moved on to the piano—his father had bought one from the local plantation owner after a good year—and then, at the age of nine, Walker got his first guitar. He played when he could, but life was full of more immediate challenges than instrumental mastery. The fieldwork drained him of energy, and he always needed to be on the lookout. “There was nothing but violence back in those days,” he said. “That’s how some white folk got their kicks—being violent against black folk.” To get away, Walker tried to enlist in the Army, but he was rejected because he’d never learned to read or write. He left the Delta anyway, moving to Waukegan, Illinois, at age 17, as part of the Great Migration that saw many Southern blacks move to northern cities to escape the oppression of the Jim Crow South. Up north, he got a job on the assembly line at American Motors. When he could, he ventured into nearby Chicago, gigging around Maxwell Street until he’d become an ace guitar player and found his niche. A natural ham with a powerful voice, he started drawing crowds by performing his own take on the flamboyant flair and whirligig style of Chuck Berry. He could duck-walk like Berry, he could play guitar like Berry, he even looked like Berry. For a time he even dubbed himself “Chuck Berry Jr.,” and he still plays his own version of “Johnny B. Goode.” When the rock era dawned in the 1950s and crested in the 1960s, it wasn’t that the blues died, but that it was incorporated—some would say flat-out co-opted—by white musicians. Elvis Presley’s adaptations of African-American music are well documented, and some of his songs—like “Mystery Train”—were Delta blues covers. The Rolling Stones were not only indebted to the sound of bluesmen like Muddy Waters, they took their band name from the title of a Waters song. Led Zeppelin recorded “When the Levee Breaks,” a traditional blues about the Great Mississippi Flood of 1927, and adapted Waters’ “You Need Love” into “Whole Lotta Love.” Eric Clapton had heard the Robert Johnson compilation King of the Delta Blues Singers as a teenager and later deemed it “so much more powerful than anything else I had heard or was listening to.” Clapton’s band Cream would 71

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cover Johnson’s “Cross Road Blues,” and the British guitar legend’s style continues to owe a deep debt to Johnson and other Delta bluesmen. As the blues was fueling the British Invasion of the 1960s and subsequent musical waves in the ’70s and ’80s, Clarksdale, the “golden buckle of the Cotton Belt,” was beginning to hollow out. Walker was long gone, having moved from Illinois to Bakersfield, California, and many bluesmen of his generation had similarly decamped. The local musicians who remained found themselves underemployed and mostly forgotten, faced with a rapidly diminishing number of venues and a public that had moved on to other genres. The revival began slowly. Clarksdale’s remaining downtown shop owners helped organize the first Sunflower River Blues Festival in 1988. The Delta Blues Museum opened as a stand-alone entity in 1999. A Memphis entertainment executive named Howard Stovall, a local lawyer named Bill Luckett (now Clarksdale’s mayor) and Mississippi-bred actor Morgan Freeman opened the Ground Zero Blues Club in 2001. Roger Stolle moved to town in 2002 and set up his blues store, Cat Head Delta Blues & Folk Art Inc, the same year. Then, partnering with a local developer named Bubba O’Keefe, Stolle founded the Juke Joint Festival, which focused both on bringing business to the town’s venues, restaurants and hotels and boosting the profile of the local bluesmen. The 48-year-old Stolle had that very mission in mind even before he arrived in town. As he writes in his 2011 book Hidden History of Mississippi Blues, “I moved to Clarksdale to circle the wagons, to mount a defense, to help the last generation of cotton-farming, mule-driving, juke-joint-playing bluesmen deeply inhale the final breath of this amazing tradition we call Delta blues.” Such a sentiment would have been unimaginable not so long ago. O’Keefe, who’s now 58 years old, told me that growing up white in Clarksdale in the highly segregated 1960s, he had never so much as entered a juke joint and was more or less under the impression that “rock ’n’ roll started in Liverpool, England.” When he found out later in life that he had grown up in a music mecca, O’Keefe had an awakening. His hometown was ignoring not only the most important strain of its history but perhaps its greatest opportunity for an economic and cultural comeback. “I’m thinking,” he says, “what would Stratford-upon-Avon be if they didn’t really care about Shakespeare?” arly on the Saturday morning of Juke Joint Festival weekend, Clarksdale started to hum. Along Delta and Yazoo Avenues, vintage-clothing sellers and gourmet-popcorn purveyors and local painters pitched white tents in the middle of the street. On the sidewalks, volunteers set up amplifiers and mic stands in front of shops. At Yazoo Pass, a café in the middle of downtown, tourists sipped cappuccinos and checked emails on their MacBook Airs while waiting for the music to start. The first thing you notice about Clarksdale during Juke Joint Festival is that the music—all of it completely free during the daytime—is everywhere.Turn a corner and you see three bands

set up along the same block, each playing to its own intently listening audience. The second thing you notice is the striking diversity of the performers.There are old black men and young white girls, Southerners and Northerners, Europeans and South Americans, all playing some variation on Delta blues. At the stage in front of Stolle’s Cat Head shop, Robert Kimbrough Sr., the youngest son of Hill Country blues legend Junior Kimbrough, dug into his father’s greasy, seductive hit “All Night Long.” “Baby, I heaaarrd you, callin’ my name,”

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Kimbrough sang, as his brother Kinney thwacked out a propulsive beat on the drums. Outside the long-shuttered Paramount Theater, Southern Halo—a group of three blonde teenage sisters from Cleveland, Mississippi—drew an adoring crowd as they covered the blues-inspired rock songs “Put a Spell on You” and “Proud Mary.” On the stage at the top of Yazoo Avenue, “Kingfish” Ingram, a 16-year-old guitarist from the Clarksdale area and one of the festival’s biggest draws, took the stage. Over the past year,

Ingram had played at the White House and appeared as a guest on the talk shows of Rachael Ray and Steve Harvey, and when he started to play he exuded an easy stardom. He won over the crowd almost instantly, shredding through “Hey Joe” and Prince’s “Purple Rain,” then got down to the more traditional number “Got to Be Some Changes Made.” “You won’t cook my breakfast, and you won’t wash my dirty clothes,” Ingram bellowed, “and every time I come home from work, darlin’, you want to show me how it goes.” He stepped down from CONTINUED ON PAGE 81 » 73

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J ULY 20 15

THE HEMI Q&A

ANTHONY BOURDAIN AMERICA’S FAVORITE CULINARY BAD BOY TALKS ABOUT THE SCARIEST PLACE HE’S EVER BEEN, THE LAST THING HE’D EVER EAT AND HOW A MAN WHO ONCE HATED CELEBRITY CHEFS BECAME THE MOST FAMOUS ONE OF ALL BY JUSTIN GOLDMAN ILLUSTRATION BY PHILIP BURKE

BOUT THE ONLY THING Anthony Bourdain won’t bite is his tongue. That’s something he’s proven to an international audience many times in the 15 years since the publication of his best-selling memoir, Kitchen Confidential. The book, which details everything you ever wanted to know—and maybe didn’t want to know—about what happens in restaurant kitchens, turned a broke, uninsured, 44-year-old culinary industry lifer into a multimedia star. Bourdain has since written five other books (not counting cookbooks and forays into fiction and graphic novels) and starred in several TV shows, including nine seasons on Travel Channel’s Emmy Award–winning hit “No Reservations” and five seasons on CNN’s Emmy- and Peabody Award–winning “Parts Unknown.” He’s become beloved by viewers and readers for his acerbic style—he drinks and swears and has started feuds with everyone from Alice Waters to Paula Deen—and his willingness to eat just about anything. With “Parts Unknown” his work has taken a serious turn, as he’s documented visits to places including Myanmar, the Democratic Republic of the Congo and Libya. But that doesn’t mean he’s lost his sense of fun. Bourdain talked to Hemispheres from his New York City apartment as he prepared to set out on a 10-city speaking tour this month, a tour that he promises will be “funny and filthy.” As always, he had lots of opinions to share, on matters ranging from why travel writers may not be good for the world to how he became what he calls “a performing seal” to what dinner conversation with Keith Richards would be like.

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A N T HON Y BOU R DA I N THE HEMI Q&A

ANTHONY BOURDAIN: [Laughs.] Yeah, it’s awkward. The only time I ever met a Beatle, I was standing next to Paul McCartney [at a urinal], and it was like, what do you do? Can you shake hands? No, probably not.

DANGEROUS LIAISONS Clockwise from top: Anthony Bourdain aboard a U.S. Navy ship after escaping from war-torn Beirut, where he was ﬁlming “No Reservations,” in 2006; on a drinking binge in Korea for “Parts Unknown”; in the Congo for “Parts Unknown”

HEMISPHERES: Well, it’s nice to meet you under more appropriate circumstances. But given your fun-loving reputation, I’m disappointed we’re not splitting a bottle of Pappy Van Winkle during this interview. BOURDAIN: Look, I just walked my 8-year-old daughter to school with her little backpack and school sweater. Packed her lunch box, and I’m going to the gym later. So that’s at odds with the idea of me sitting around with a bottle of Pappy at 9 in the morning, chugging from the neck. That ain’t me. Not these days. HEMISPHERES: Parenting aside, you certainly keep busy with your books and television shows. And this month you’re embarking on a 10-city speaking tour. Why add the tour to an already packed schedule? BOURDAIN: I don’t know. It’s terrifying. It’s fun. You interact with fans directly during the Q&A. You really see who’s watching and what they’re thinking. And that’s exciting, to walk out on stage in front of a couple of thousand people with just a couple of bullet-point notes scrawled on a piece of paper. You really never know how it’s gonna go, and it’s an adrenaline rush. It’s exhausting. It’s a lot like stand-up in that sense—if you’re on the stage for an hour and a half, there better be plenty of laughs.

HEMISPHERES: And of course your CNN show, “Parts Unknown,” just wrapped up its fifth season. I’ve always liked the show, and as you’ve gone on it feels as if it’s become more and more cinematic. For example, this season you edited the Korea episode to run backward. BOURDAIN: We’d been looking for an opportunity to do a backward show for a long time, and it became clear while we were shooting that this might be it. Since it’s such a drinking culture, and the content we were filming was so much about a long, very Korean-style drinking and karaoke and eating bender, we thought, “Wouldn’t it be great to go backward and have me become more sober as the show progresses?”

HEMISPHERES: Do you have a focus for these talks? BOURDAIN: No. I want it to be funny. And filthy. It’s going to be particularly filthy. There’s no “I really want to sink my teeth into the GMO issue.” That ain’t me. [Laughs.]

HEMISPHERES: It’s nice to have the freedom to make a stylistic choice like that. BOURDAIN: We have a lot more freedom with CNN to wander away from any particular format. We CONTINUED ON PAGE 82 »

COURTESY OF THE TRAVEL CHANNEL (SHIP); 2013 CABLE NEWS NETWORK/A TIME WARNER COMPANY (CONGO); 2015 CABLE NEWS NETWORK/A TIME WARNER COMPANY (KOREA)

HEMISPHERES: I have to start with a confession: I’m a big fan of yours, and I once ran into you in a men’s room at LaGuardia. I wanted to say hello, but I was like, Um, no, not here.

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» CONTINUED FROM PAGE 73

the stage in the middle of his solo and continued to play as he stomped through the crowd, iPhones all around him capturing the future blues great’s boy-wonder phase. As Ingram strutted back toward the bandstand, the audience erupted in applause. As evening came, the action shifted indoors to the city’s theaters and juke joints. Crowds lined up outside of the New Roxy to hear the throwback country blues band of the Indiana singer and guitarist Reverend Peyton. A few miles outside of town, at the old Hopson Plantation, Big George Brock, an 82-year-old harmonica player who claims to have once knocked out Sonny Liston in an amateur bout, took the stage to play classics like Waters’ “Mannish Boy.” At midnight, in a dive bar called D.J. Hype’s R&B Lounge, drummer Cedric Burnside, grandson of blues great R.L. Burnside, played to a crowd of about a dozen. It was a small audience, but the room was lively—locals and out-of-towners, white faces and black faces, united over bottles of Budweiser and Burnside’s charismatic playing. Stolle had told me that while he sometimes worried about the future of the blues (“I went to three funerals, three weekends in a row, a month before Juke Joint Festival”), he felt that some younger players, musicians like Ingram and Burnside, still had a deep cultural connection to the roots of the music. They showed that there was more than a reason for hope in Clarksdale; there was plenty of actual life left buzzing around the city and its music. hile Ingram was soaking up the crowd’s adoration and Burnside was performing deep into the night, Walker was having a more checkered festival run. Headlining the New Roxy on Saturday night, he’d been the victim of a bad sound mix—his powerful voice dying in the concrete room—and he’d gotten so fed up with his drummer that he’d fired him mid-set. The next afternoon, playing a free show in front of Cat Head, Walker needled his backup guitar player so much that the man packed up his instrument and walked off the stage halfway through a song.

At that point, the only person left in Walker’s band was his wife, Audrey, who had been playing bass for less than a year. But at Wonderlight City, Walker was at home, and his music reached a far deeper resonance. After finishing “Ask Me No Questions,” Walker started in on John Lee Hooker’s “Story of a Married Woman,” turning the song into a devastating lament. A young white couple from New Orleans got up from their seats and started to dance in front of the stage. The rest of the audience members leaned back in their chairs, watching Walker in silence. “I cried last night, and I cried the night before,” he sang. It was growing late, and it was Walker’s third show in two days, but he had one more song, a serenade for Audrey— Elmore James’ “Early One Morning.” Walker was now covered in a light sweat, and he started to sing about that “magic woman” who “broke my teacher’s rule,” finding both the music’s humor and its hurt. When he finished, he sat in his chair, spent. The cantankerous man who had driven off half of his band the previous two days was exhausted. He’d poured everything into the music. He could barely manage a smile. When I’d first met Walker, I’d asked him what the blues would be like in 20 years, after the last of his generation of musicians had passed. After all, it would be the end of what Stolle had called the “cotton-farming, muledriving, juke-joint-playing bluesmen.” Without them, would the blues still matter? Walker paused. “Hard to say,” he said, looking over the eight-acre plot of land, which he was sure his heirs would sell “the minute I’m dead.” Then a new thought took hold. “This is a completely different world from what it was back then,” he said. “All the young white people now—they come to hear me play, we all associate together, we all eat at the same table together, they fall down getting to me to get a picture. A lot of their parents would have turned over in their graves if they’d seen that.” But some things would always remain, he said: “I tell you one thing: The blues will be here. The rest of that stuff go and come, but the blues? It’s always been here and it always will.” Eric Benson is an Austin-based writer who has written for Texas Monthly, The New York Times Magazine and Grantland. Since leaving the Mississippi Delta, he’s listened to every version of Muddy Waters’ “Mannish Boy” available on Spotify.

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A N T HON Y BOU R DA I N THE HEMI Q&A

they want all your stuff. They can pretty much do whatever they want. And if not them, there are plenty of militias out there. It was a very difficult shoot that I’m really proud of. Fortunately, we had really great fixers on the ground who got us through some really dodgy situations. HEMISPHERES: Doesn’t it blow your mind that the people who live there deal with that every day?

» CONTINUED FROM PAGE 76

HEMISPHERES: That change in focus dates back to the episode of “No Reservations” you filmed in Beirut as the 2006 IsraelLebanon conflict broke out, right?

HEMISPHERES: You visit a lot of places that many of us don’t really have a chance to. Is it part of your job to dispel notions that Americans may have about those parts of the world?

BOURDAIN: That’s not my intention. That’s a byproduct BOURDAIN: I think that was a big shift. We realized very of what I do that I’m very happy about. If people come quickly and painfully that the world is a bigger place, and away from the show with a different perspective on Gaza, that [sometimes] it’s inappropriate to make a straight food the West Bank, Tehran, Myanmar—places about which show, or even travel show. I’m they had certain preconceptions not saying we got all serious and and now at least they start to started to think of ourselves as think that there might be another journalists, but we did see that in perspective, or be encouraged to very real terms we could get away go there or to read more about a with not having a happy ending place—that’s great. That makes me in the show. That we could get feel very happy. But I don’t have away with me really talking about that kind of agenda. My agenda is how I felt about things. We were only to go to a place, to experience afforded a lot of liberty with that it as best I can and then to tell the show because it was a news story. story of my experience in a way TOQUE TALK Bourdain with his friend, fellow chef And we held on to that liberty. We that is creative, interesting and and former whipping boy, Emeril Lagasse just continued to widen the focus. true to my point of view. That’s We try to keep moving. Even if we it. I am not an advocate. I am not fail, we just want to keep doing work that’s interesting, an educator. I am not an activist. to us first and hopefully to the audience. And we want to keep changing and pushing ourselves as far as the kinds of HEMISPHERES: That’s a very measured approach. stories we’re telling, where we’re telling them, the style in which we tell them. That’s really important to me and the BOURDAIN: I don’t know what the best approach to take people I make the show with. And, fortunately, CNN has is. I don’t know that travel writers are necessarily always been extraordinarily supportive of that intention. good for the world. There are some places I go to that are so beautiful and unspoiled, I want to turn to the camera and say, HEMISPHERES: What’s the scariest situation you’ve been in? “Don’t come here, because you’ll ruin it.” It’s a destructive process, showing this perfect little neighborhood pub in an BOURDAIN: Congo, as far as day after day of feeling very unspoiled area of a country that not a lot of people are going uncertain about how things are going to turn out, and whether to, and you put it on TV because you’re genuinely enthusiastic you’re going to make it through the day. That was easily about it, and you go back and there’s a lot of tourists in ugly the most difficult show. We were threatened and extorted, shorts and sandals. threatened with arrest twice a day, every day we were there. And you’re very far from anything resembling electric power, HEMISPHERES: A friend of mine in San Francisco says he’s a flush toilet or someone who’s going to come and help you mad at you because you went to Swan Oyster Depot, and if the local constabulary decide that today’s the day that the lines are twice as long now. CONTINUED ON PAGE 83 »

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can pretty much narrow our focus as much as we want, or widen it. There doesn’t have to be food in the show, so we can go places where there’s no expectation of food, or even reproducible travel experiences. I don’t think anyone’s going to the Congo anytime soon for vacation. And you’re not gonna get a club sandwich at your hotel, that’s for sure.

BOURDAIN: Oh my god. I mean, it’s a country where, in many parts of Congo, it’s dangerous to own anything or to make anything or to grow anything. If you have anything worth taking, you’re exposing yourself to harm. It’s just an awful, awful situation for millions of people in a country that’s one of the richest in resources in the world. And it has been visited with all of the terrible afflictions that a country could experience.

JULY 2015 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

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A N T HON Y BOU R DA I N THE HEMI Q&A

» CONTINUED FROM PAGE 82 BOURDAIN: We’re aware of that. And there have been a few places that I’ve deliberately not given the name or the address. I basically say, “I’m not gonna tell you the name of this place, because you’ll screw it up.” A restaurant in Rome years ago that I just fell in love with, I said, “I’m not gonna tell you the name of it because too many people will come.” People who really wanted could easily have put it together, and did, so at least it separates out the casual [tourist].

your fellow juggler and look down on them. So you become complicit in this strange and terrible phenomenon, and it would be hypocritical to not temper my views. HEMISPHERES: Emeril appeared in an episode of HBO’s “Treme” that you helped write, and I thought he came off great in it.

BOURDAIN: It’s one of the proudest moments of my career, that scene that I wrote for him, and the culmination of something I’ve really wanted to do for a long time, which was to see HEMISPHERES: Aside from the travel narratives, you also Emeril use the f-word on television. Which is how Emeril talks worked on a reality show, “The Taste.” Reality TV seems to in real life. He likes working. He’s a regular guy. He’s happy in be the kind of thing that you’d snark about. Why’d you do it? the kitchen, and he’s happy among other chefs, and I came to know that long before I was able to get him on “Treme.” It had BOURDAIN: It was fun. And it was easy—let’s not discount been a long-simmering ambition on my part to let people see that. Actually, the thing that got me, to something like the real Emeril on TV. be perfectly honest, was I could do the And not only was I very grateful that he “THE MINUTE YOU whole thing in a month, and they’d put did the scene, I think he killed it. AGREE TO DO me up at the Chateau Marmont in Los TELEVISION, YOU Angeles, which is, like, my favorite hotel HEMISPHERES: I’ve seen you ask this of BECOME SOMETHING in the world. It’s very special, warm a lot of chefs, and it’s one of my favorite and dysfunctional in the best possible questions: What would your last meal be? OF A PERFORMING way. So that was really what convinced SEAL, AND IT me. And spending time with people I BOURDAIN: I’d be eating Sukiyabashi BECOMES A LITTLE really like: Nigella [Lawson] and Ludo Jiro in Tokyo. I’d just be eating whatMORE DIFFICULT [Lefebvre] and Marcus [Samuelsson]. ever [Jiro Ono] wants to feed me. TO POINT THE I’ve been flying to faraway lands for FINGER AT YOUR almost 14 years now. So the idea of a HEMISPHERES: You seem really drawn FELLOW JUGGLER.” month of relative stability, commuting to Tokyo. to work from a nice hotel, hanging out after work with friends, eating Korean barbecue, in a city that BOURDAIN: If you grab any 10 chefs from whatever level, I’m really interested in—it’s a very “not me” experience, and from Spain, France, all over the world, and then tell them, that made it fun. “You’ve got to spend the rest of your life eating all your meals in one city,” they’re all gonna say Tokyo. There’s HEMISPHERES: This brings up an interesting dissonance in a level of perfectionism, a reverence for technique, a your existence. You’ve called out celebrity chefs in the past, and density and variety—an unknowable. It’s such a steep yet you’ve certainly benefited from that cultural phenomenon. learning curve that no matter how often you eat and how deeply you try to penetrate and how well you may or BOURDAIN: Yeah, I long ago became part of the problem. may not learn the language, you’ll never know [anything]. It’s great. HEMISPHERES: How do you square that? HEMISPHERES: OK, now say you’re hosting a dinner for BOURDAIN: Age and corruption. When I wrote Kitchen four. Who are your three guests, dead or alive? Confidential, looking at Emeril from where I was at the time—standing there in a kitchen at age 44, broke, no BOURDAIN: Orson Welles, Ava Gardner and Keith Richards. insurance—he was from Mars. I couldn’t imagine a chef who was so lovable and could be so friendly and happy HEMISPHERES: Wow. What do you think that conversation and evangelical. And of course I hated it. It seemed manu- would be about? factured and so far away from the realities of what I was doing. Of course, I’ve come to know Emeril and have come BOURDAIN: I’ll tell you, it’d be a pretty interesting disto know a lot of chefs who do that for a living. Some of cussion. I mean, Keith Richards is a military historian. So them are completely bogus and bad for the world, and maybe British naval history and film. others, like Emeril—I mean, Emeril put in his time. If you chain Emeril to a stove, he can actually cook. He was a real Hemispheres managing editor JUSTIN GOLDMAN’s last meal chef with real credentials. And the minute you agree to do would be a burrito mojado al pastor from San Francisco’s television, you become something of a performing seal, Taqueria Cancún. He’d wash it down with a bottle of Pappy. and it becomes a little more difficult to point the finger at TRAVELING TO PARTS UNKNOWN ON UNITED? Post your pics with the hashtag #hemigram, and you might see yourself in the next issue. See page 8 for more details.

R1_074_HEMI0715_Q&A.indd 83

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03/06/2015 14:33

A HEMISPHERES SUPPLEMENT: MEETINGS AND CONVENTIONS

HOW TO MAKE YOUR EVENT A SUCCESS TOP TIPS TO GUARANTEE YOUR MEETING OR CONFERENCE GOES WITHOUT A HITCH According to the Convention Industry Council, the meetings and conventions industry contributed $115 billion to the U.S. economy last year. “Business is really solid,” says Doug Small, president of Experience Grand Rapids. “The economic downturn of 2008/2009 really changed everyone’s mindset. And now, even though the economy is recovered, executives are still looking for a bargain, which means lower prices and we’ve got to compete if we want their business.” So among the many convention centers and meeting rooms battling to host your event, how do you decide which is right for you? These industry experts offer their best tips.

THINK ABOUT ACCOMMODATION This is a global industry, much like the companies looking to host a meeting or convention—meaning attendees are likely to travel cross-country to visit. Therefore, ensuring a center has links to quality accommodation nearby is the first step in guaranteeing your guests can make it. For DeVos Place Convention Center, in Grand Rapids, this is accomplished literally. The center has enclosed, elevated skywalks connecting it to three hotels—Amway Grand Plaza Hotel, Courtyard by Marriott Downtown, and JW Marriott Grand Rapids. “You don’t even have to go outside,” says

Small. “This also comes in handy for the catering—ours is done by one of these four-diamond hotels that’s linked to the center.” Developing hospitality links is also important to Mike Waterman, president of Visit Houston, which offers two world-class convention campuses. “In the center of the downtown area we have the George R. Brown Convention Center, which is connected to the 1,200-room Hilton Americas hotel, and soon a brand-new, 1,000-room Marriott Marquis, opening in 2016.” CHECK OUT THE CONNECTIONS “Houston is one of the most connected cities in the country

Main: The Houston skyline

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10/06/2015 16:07

A HEMISPHERES SUPPLEMENT:: MEETINGS AND CONVENTIONS

WHEN CHOOSING A SPACE, SIZE MATTERS... In order to stay competitive, centers must offer large, flexible spaces for low prices. “We have 100,000 square feet of column-free space that keeps us competitive within our region,” says Bearden. Over in Grand Rapids, DeVos Place offers a large, 162,000-square-foot exhibit hall, but Small seems most proud of its ballroom: “It’s 40,000 square feet and the quality of a four-diamond hotel ballroom. It’s exquisite.”

SAS_July_V2.indd 88

Main: Grand Rapid’s Van Andel Arena at night. Clockwise from left: A trade show in full swing at the Memphis Cook Convention Center; The Houston skyline; Preparations take place at the DeVos Place Performance Hall

...BUT NOT ALWAYS In terms of the host city, many companies immediately look to the big leagues, explains Small. “Most people when they visit are very surprised by the visitor and convention infrastructure, and by that I mean the hotels, facilities, restaurants and nightclubs that surround our convention campus. They’re a lot better than cities one-and-a-half times our size. Because of our wonderful facilities, we compete with the likes of Cincinnati, Columbus and Cleveland, which are arguably better branded and much larger.”

LOOK FOR WORK AND PLAY No event is complete without the entertainment, so picking a lively city is important. “Grand Rapids isn’t a Midwest city that closes up at 5 o’clock; it goes on till 4am,” says Small. “We also consider ourselves a foodie town with craft beer too. There’s an Ale Trail and Food Trail to explore.” For Waterman in Houston, the city has world-class culture and a diverse culinary scene: “We have an amazing collection of 19 institutions in our walkable museum district, from fine arts to contemporary craft.”

Photos: Baxter Buck/ G. Lyon Photography

when it comes to flights,” says Waterman. Likewise, a city’s brand and reputation can be an equally big draw to visitors. Regena Bearden, from Memphis Convention and Visitors Bureau, says, “Memphis CVB is joined by the Cannon Center for Performing Arts, and we sit in an ideal location in the center of downtown Memphis, near our world-famous Beale Street, home of the Blues. “Our destination has a very strong brand—the authenticity of the South and our music culture is known around the world.”

10/06/2015 15:37

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TRAVEL INFO FLEET

MAPS

SAFETY & REGULATORY

United Airlines and United Express operate an average of nearly 5,000 ﬂights a day to over 370 airports across six continents.

UPGRADING OUR AIRBUS FLEET WITH OUR NEXT GENERATION SIGNATURE LEATHER SEAT

A Very Special Delivery I

n March 2015, United took delivery of the above Boeing 737-900ER aircraft painted with a special design to commemorate our 10-year partnership with the March of Dimes. As the official airline of the March of Dimes National Ambassador Program, United is committed to providing ongoing support for this great organization as it focuses on the research, treatment and prevention of premature birth. In honor of this anniversary, United invited several of our top employee donors and sponsors, as well as Elijah Jackson, HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JULY 2015

091_HEM0715_Fleet.indd 91

the 2015 March of Dimes National Ambassador, to join us onboard the delivery flight on April 15, 2015. The aircraft itself has all the advanced features one can expect from United, which include Wi-Fi, slimline seating and our fuel-efficient Scimitar winglets. We are in a unique position to spread the message of the March of Dimes around the country, so look out for our “purple plane” during your travels. We hope that we continue to bring awareness to a wonderful organization and a very important cause.

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fleet

travel info

MAINLINE

N24199

N24399

Boeing 767-400 and 767-400ER

N66051

N75390

Boeing 737-900 and 737-900ER

N30401

N25311

AIRCRAFT

CRUISE SPEED

CAPACITY

PROPULSION

WINGSPAN

747-400

777-200/ -200ER

787-8/-9

767-300ER/ -400ER

757-200/-300

737-700/ -800/-900/ -900ER

A319/A320

567 mph

550 mph

560 mph

540 mph

530 mph

374 passengers

Between 266 and 348 passengers

Between 219 and 252 passengers

Between 183 and 242 passengers

Between 142 and 213 passengers

Between 118 and 179 passengers

Between 120 and 150 passengers

Four Pratt & Whitney PW4056 turbofan engines, rated up to 56,000 pounds thrust

Two General Electric GE90 or two Pratt & Whitney PW4077/4090 turbofan engines, rated up to 94,000 pounds thrust

Two General Electric GEnx-1B turbofan engines, rated up to 74,100 pounds thrust

Two General Electric CF680C2B or Pratt & Whitney PW4060 turbofan engines, rated up to 63,500 pounds thrust

Two Rolls-Royce RB211-535 or two Pratt & Whitney PW2037 turbofan engines, rated up to 43,700 pounds thrust

Two General Electric CFM56 turbofan engines, rated up to 27,100 pounds thrust

Two IAE V2500-A5 turbofan engines, rated up to 26,500 pounds thrust

211 ft., 5 in.

199 ft., 11 in.

197 ft., 4 in.

Up to 170 ft., 4 in.

134 ft., 9 in.

118 ft., 2 in.

111 ft., 11 in.

UNITED EXPRESS N24106

N24411

N24103

N24101

N24108

AIRCRAFT CRUISE SPEED

CAPACITY

PROPULSION

WINGSPAN

091_HEM0715_Fleet.indd 92

CRJ-200/-700

EMB 170/175

EMB 135/145

Q200/-300/-400

EMB 120

530 mph

520 mph

530 mph

414 mph

325 mph

Between 50 and 66 passengers

Between 70 and 76 passengers

Between 37 and 50 passengers

Between 37 and 74 passengers

30 passengers

Two General Electric CC348C1 jet engines, rated up to 13,000 pounds thrust

Two General Electric CF34-8E jet engines, rated up to 14,500 pounds thrust

Two Rolls-Royce AE3007 turbofan engines, rated up to 8,900 pounds thrust

Two Pratt and Whitney PW150A engines, rated up to 4,600 pounds thrust

Two Pratt and Whitney PW118 engines, rated up to 2,200 pounds thrust

76 ft., 3 in.

85 ft., 4 in.

69 ft., 7 in.

93 ft., 3 in.

64 ft., 9 in.

JULY 2015 â&#x20AC;¢ HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

04/06/2015 12:03

terminal maps

travel info

New United Club at Washington Reagan Enjoy 180-degree panoramic views and escape the hustle and bustle of your travel day at our new remodeled United Club location, near Terminal B, opposite Gate 11.

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JULY 2015 â&#x20AC;¢ HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

04/06/2015 12:12

terminal maps

travel info

United Club

Kiosk Check-in/Customer Service Center

Medical Center

United Global First Lounge

Ticketing/Check-in

Transfer Shuttle

United Arrivals Lounge

Baggage Claim

Bus, Monorail or Train Transport

United Premier® Check-in

Immigration

Secure Walkway

TSA Pre

TSA Pre-screening Program

Animal Relief Area

IAH | HOUSTON GEORGE BUSH INTERCONTINENTAL AIRPORT TERMINAL A

TERMINAL B

TERMINAL C

(North Concourse)

United Express

United United Express

Bus Station (A2) A30 A29

A27 A26 A25

A17 A18 A19

A20

International Arrivals

USO D

C17 C16 C15 C14

C18

1 D 2 D 3

4 C2

C19 C20 C21 C22 C23

Lufthansa Scandinavian Airlines Singapore Airlines Turkish Airlines

C27

TerminaLink Connects Terminals A, B, C, D, & E via train

(Lower Level)

A24

B85A B86A B86 B85 B84A-S B87 B88

A15 B79A B79 A11 B80 B77A A9 B81A B77 B81 B76A A8 B76 B83A A7 B83

A14 A12 A10

North Concourse

United Air China ANA Avianca EVA Air

United Express Air Canada

TERMINAL D

B31 B21 B30 B22 B20 B29 B23 B19 B28 B24 B18 B27 B25 B17 B26

(Lower Level) B12 B14 B15 B16

B1 B11 B2 B10 B3 B9 B4 B8 B5 B7 B6

C29

E24 C30

C31

C32

C43 C34 C35 C36 C37

South Concourse

TERMINAL A

C33

C44

C45

E10

E1 E2 E3 E4 E5

C42 C41 C40

E12

E14

E23

E15 E16 E17

E8 E7

C39

(South Concourse)

E11

E22 E21 E18

E19

E20

TERMINAL E United United Express

ORD | CHICAGO O’HARE INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT E 8

F2 F2 3 F26 F1 1 F2 F1 9 7 F2 4 F1 F2 2 F1 5 1 F1 0 F9 F1 6 F8 F1 4 F7 F1 2 0

F 7 F25

G H

TERMINAL 3

F6 F5 F1 F2 F3 F4

E4 E3 E2

K TERMINAL 2

United Express Air Canada

E12 E10

B2 B3 B4 B1

C1 C2 C4 C3 C8 C5 C10 C7 C9 C11 C15 C17 B6

C C16 C18 C20

C22 C19 C24 C21 B8 C26 C23 C28 B9 C25 C27 B10 C30 C29 C31 B11 B12 B14 B16 B17 B18 B19 B20

B21 B22/23/24

TERMINAL 1 Elevated Airport Transport System

TERMINAL 5 United (international arrivals***), ANA,** Air India, Asiana Airlines, Austrian, Avianca, Copa Airlines, LOT Polish Airlines, Lufthansa,** Scandinavian Airlines, SWISS, Turkish Airlines

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JULY 2015

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United United Express ANA* Lufthansa*

*Departures only **Arrivals only ***International arrivals originating from cities with U.S. Customs preclearance will arrive into Terminals 1 or 2

04/06/2015 11:08

terminal maps

travel info

EWR | NEW YORK/NEWARK LIBERTY INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT TERMINAL A

TERMINAL C

United United Express Air Canada

United United International Arrivals United Express

TERMINAL C B2

28/28A 27/ 27A

127 128 126 139 125 124 138 123 137 122 136 121 5 120 13 134 3 3 1 2 13 31 1 0 13

X 26

A2 25/25A

United International Arrivals Lufthansa Scandinavian Airlines SWISS TAP Portugal

4A /2 24 A 23/23

20/20A

TERMINAL B

113

112

111

110 108

107

104

105

102

103

81 83 85 87 88

90 72

70 71

74 (Upper Level)

(Lower Level)

TSA PreCheck now available at all 3 checkpoints

DEN | DENVER INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

SFO | SAN FRANCISCO INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT B

A B16 B18 B20 B22 B24 B26 B28 B30 B32 B34 B36

Air Canada Lufthansa

A24-A39

A40-A53

A58-A68

TE R M I N A L 1

United United Express

64 63

62 65 61 66 60 78A/B 77A/B/C 6768 69 76A/B 79

C23-C39

B39 B41 B43 B45 B47 B49 B51 B53 B55 B57

C40-C49

72/73 73A 74

(Lower Level) 75

G92

G94

89 G96 G98 G100

G91

G102

Gates A1-A12

G93 G95

G101

1 3 5 7 9 1 B8 8 8 8 8 9 B B B B B B93 B95 0 2 4 6 8 0 B8 B8 B8 B8 B8 B9 B92 94 B

9 1 5 7 9 71 73 5 6 B5 B6 63 B6 B6 B B B B7 B B77 9 B7

B30 B42 B44 B46 B48 B50 B52 B54 B56 B58 B60

TE R M I N A L 2

TERMINAL 3

United United Express

B15 B17 B19 B21 B23 B25 B27 B29 B31 B33 B35 B37

Pedestrian Bridge

94 91

101

Newark Liberty International Airport Station — Connection with Amtrak and New Jersey Transit

TERMINAL EAST

96 92

109

P1, P2, P3

TERMINAL WEST

98 99

115

114

G97 G99

I N T E R N AT I O N A L TE R M I N A L

A Air Canada, Asiana Airlines, Avianca

United, Air Canada, Air China, Air New Zealand, ANA, EVA AIR, Lufthansa, Scandinavian Airlines, Singapore Airlines, SWISS, Turkish Airlines

IAD | WASHINGTON DULLES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT C

United United Express

C2-4

C6-8

C1-3 A2

A United Express Avianca Copa Airlines Ethiopian

C10-14

C5-7 A4

C18-26

C9-11 A6

C28-30

D2-8

D1-7

C17-27 A14

A22

A15

D10-16

D9-11

A25

A21

Z Gates 1-4

MAIN TERMINAL

094_HEM0715_Terminal_Maps.indd 96

D18-26

D15-21 B38-B48

A32

B35-B51

D28-32

D23-29

B63-B79

B ANA Austrian Avianca Brussels Airlines Lufthansa Scandinavian Airlines South African Airways Turkish Airlines

JULY 2015 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

04/06/2015 11:08

travel info

LAX | LOS ANGELES INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

terminal maps

GUM | GUAM INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

TERMINAL 2

TE R M I N A L 3

TE R M I N A L 1

Air Canada Avianca

MAIN TERMINAL United 21

71A 71B 73 75A

75B 77

TE R M I N A L 4

TE R M I N A L 5

80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88

70A 70B 72

12 13

TERMINAL 6

TERMINAL 7

TERMINAL 8

Copa Airlines (departures)

United United Express

11 (Lower Level) 10

TO M B R A D L E Y I N T E R N A T I O N A L TE R M I N A L United, ANA, Asiana Airlines, Air China, Copa Airlines (arrivals), Ethiopian, EVA AIR Lufthansa, Air New Zealand, Singapore Airlines, SWISS, THAI, Turkish Airlines 9

Food Court (Lower Level)

Café

NRT | TOKYO NARITA INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

Fourth Floor

Satellite 2

Third Floor 43

Security Checkpoint

24 23

22 36

45 46

North Wing

South Wing 18 52

17 16

15 11

Satellite 1

55 56 57

4 58

TERMINAL 1 United Air Canada Air China ANA Air New Zealand Asiana Airlines

Austrian EGYPTAIR EVA AIR Lufthansa Scandinavian Airlines

Singapore Airlines SWISS THAI Turkish Airlines

LHR | LONDON HEATHROW INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT TERMINAL 2B

FRA | FRANKFURT INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Gates

Gates

E1-E26

D1-D54

Pier E

Pier D

Pi Gates

B47 B27 B26 B46 B28 B48 B45 B25 B23 B42 B44 B24 B22 B43 Pier B B10-B20 B1-B41

e Pi

C1-C9

TE R M I N A L 2

B49

B48

B32

B33

B47

B46

B44

B43 B42

B36

B38 B39

B31

B41 B29

Underground Walkway

Pier A

A18 A21

Gates

Z11-25/A1-42

Pier A/Z

A/Z Gates 50-69

Arrivals Lounge

TE R M I N A L 1 United Aegean Airlines Adria Airways Air Canada Air China ANA Asiana Airlines

Austrian Croatia Airlines EGYPTAIR Ethiopian LOT Polish Airlines Lufthansa Scandinavian Airlines

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JULY 2015

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Singapore Airlines South African Airways SWISS TAP Portugal THAI Turkish Airlines

TERMINAL 2A

Transfer to Terminal 1 is via walkway Transfer to Terminal 3-4-5 is via secure side shuttle bus

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12/06/2015 08:50

travel info

DELAYED OR CANCELED FLIGHTS

Tips for when your flight is delayed or canceled On occasion, delaying or canceling a flight is the only way we can maintain our high safety standards. In these challenging situations, simply knowing more about your options is an important step toward getting your travel plans back on track.

GETTING REBOOKED

RESCHEDULING YOUR TRIP

If your travel is significantly disrupted, we’ll automatically look for another flight to book you on. We’ll notify you using the contact information provided during booking or at check-in, and you can also view your updated itinerary through the United app, united.com/checkin or an airport kiosk, or ask a United representative.

If your flight is canceled or delayed two hours or more, and you want to postpone or cancel your trip, please call us at 1-800-UNITED-1 (1-800-864-8331) within the USA or Canada, or go to united.com/contact for international contact options.

Sometimes the next available United flight may not be for several hours or, in rare cases, even longer. In these situations, the following options may be available:

MANY OF THESE FEATURES ARE NOW AVAILABLE THROUGH THE UNITED APP, UNITED.COM/CHECKIN AND OUR AIRPORT KIOSKS. If you’re on an aircraft equipped with Wi-Fi, you can access the United app and united.com for free.

STANDING BY

SWITCHING TO A NEARBY AIRPORT Flights into or out of nearby airports may be available. If you’re able to arrange ground transportation, switching to another airport could reduce your delay.

If you’re given a new itinerary but would prefer to take an earlier flight that is sold out, you can ask to be added to the standby list at no charge. If you don’t get a seat, we’ll move you to the standby list for the next flight.

STAYING OVERNIGHT If your flight is canceled because of a mechanical issue or other circumstances within our control, we will try to accommodate you in a nearby hotel at our expense. For events outside of our control, such as weather, we may be able to help you find a local hotel at a discounted rate, but we do not cover hotel or meal expenses. If this situation applies to your travel, you can ask a United airport representative about discount hotel options.

BE PREPARED

BEFORE YOU TR AVEL

DOWNLOAD THE UNITED APP You can use it to get your boarding passes, check flight status, view standby lists, change to other flights and more.

PROVIDE ACCUR ATE CONTAC T INFORMATION When contacting you about your flights, we rely on the mobile phone number and email address you’ve given us. During check-in, please ensure that your contact details are up to date.

BUY TRIP INSUR ANCE The cost is usually low, and it can offset expenses incurred due to travel disruptions and bag delays. Learn more at united.com/tripinsurance

KEEP ESSENTIAL ITEMS IN YOUR C ARRY-ON BAG You can help yourself through a delay by keeping snacks, baby supplies, medication, travel documents and other essential personal items in your carry-on bag for easy access.

CHECKED BAGS If you are booked on a new itinerary, we’ll make every effort to reroute your checked baggage. Please ask a United representative about the status of your bags and if they can be rerouted. A toiletry kit may be provided if an overnight stay is necessary and we can’t retrieve your checked baggage. If your bags arrive at your destination before you do, we will secure the bags until you claim them. If your baggage doesn’t arrive at your final destination with you, please see a Baggage Service representative.

VISIT UNITED.COM/ IMPORTANTNOTICES BEFORE YOUR TRIP This page provides information about severe weather, airport updates and other issues that may affect your travel, and sometimes offers extra flexibility to change your travel plans in advance.

Different policies may apply when traveling to and from certain countries. Please refer to united.com for our Contract of Carriage and additional information.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JULY 2015

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04/06/2015 11:11

customs & safety

travel info

U.S. and Guam international arrivals/ expedited screening through CBP Arrivals in the U.S. U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) has automated the I-94 arrival/departure record. After CBP inspection, travelers can request a copy of their I-94 at cbp.gov/I94.

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection

Type or print legibly with pen in ALL CAPITAL LETTERS. Use English. Do not write on the back of this form. This form is in two parts. Please complete both the Arrival Record (Items 1 through 17) and the Departure Record (Items 18 through 21). When all items are completed, present this form to the CBP Officer. Item 9 - If you are entering the United States by land, enter LAND in this space. If you are entering the United States by ship, enter SEA in this space. 5 U.S.C. § 552a(e)(3) Privacy Act Notice: Information collected on this form is required by Title 8 of the U.S. Code, including the INA (8 U.S.C. 1103, 1187), and 8 CFR 235.1, 264, and 1235.1. The purposes for this collection are to give the terms of admission and document the arrival and departure of nonimmigrant aliens to the U.S. The information solicited on this form may be made available to other government agencies for law enforcement purposes or to assist DHS in determining your admissibility. All nonimmigrant aliens seeking admission to the U.S., unless otherwise exempted, must provide this information. Failure to provide this information may deny you entry to the United States and result in your removal.

CBP Form I-94 (05/08)

OMB No. 1651-0111

Arrival Record Admission Number

000000000 00

1. Family Name 2. First (Given) Name

5. Sex (Male or Female)

6. Passport Issue Date (DD/MM/YY)

7. Passport Expiration Date (DD/MM/YY)

8. Passport Number

9. Airline and Flight Number

10. Country Where You Live

11. Country Where You Boarded

12. City Where Visa Was Issued

13. Date Issued (DD/MM/YY)

14. Address While in the United States (Number and Street) 15. City and State 16. Telephone Number in the U.S. Where You Can be Reached 17. Email Address CBP Form I-94 (05/08)

DEPARTMENT OF HOMELAND SECURITY U.S. Customs and Border Protection

OMB No. 1651-0111

Departure Record Admission Number

000000000 00

18. Family Name 19. First (Given) Name

20. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY)

21. Country of Citizenship

CBP Form I-94 (05/08) See Other Side

The TSA manages and operates , an expedited security screening program that allows certain travelers to move through security more quickly and easily when departing from participating airports in the U.S. The TSA, not United, randomly selects travelers for expedited screening.

3. Birth Date (DD/MM/YY)

4. Country of Citizenship

U.S. Customs Declaration One traveler per family must complete a customs declaration before arrival in the U.S. Please read both sides of the document, complete the form in English, using capital letters, and be sure to sign. If you are passing through the U.S., write “TRANSIT” and your final destination country in the address field.

OMB No. 1651-0111

Welcome to the United States I-94 Arrival/Departure Record Instructions This form must be completed by all persons except U.S. Citizens, returning resident aliens, aliens with immigrant visas, and Canadian Citizens visiting or in transit.

Expedited screening through the U.S. Transportation Security Administration (TSA)

STAPLE HERE

Left: U.S. I-94 Arrival/Departure Record, which all Guam-CNMI Visa Waiver Program participants must complete; right: U.S. Customs Declaration

Arrivals in Guam All travelers entering Guam under the terms of the Guam-CNMI Visa Waiver Program must complete an I-94 Arrival/Departure Record (one per person, including infants); an I-736 (one per person, including infants); and a Guam Customs Declaration (one per family). All other travelers must complete a Guam Customs Declaration only. Forms must be completed in English, using capital letters. If you are passing through Guam, write “TRANSIT” and your final destination country in the address field. The Customs and Border Protection officer will place the I-94 departure record in your passport after inspection. Before boarding your return flight, please give the departure record to the airline representative at the boarding gate.

The ability to use lanes is most consistent for travelers who have joined a Department of Homeland Security Trusted Traveler program. After completing a background check and screening, travelers who are enrolled in a Trusted Traveler program are issued a Known Traveler Number (KTN) or PASS ID. Members of the U.S. Armed Forces, including those serving in the U.S. Coast Guard, Reserves and National Guard, can use their Department of Defense (DoD) identification number. This number should be noted when making a flight reservation, or you can add it to an existing United reservation through the “Edit traveler information” option at united.com/managereservations. If the TSA determines that a traveler is eligible for expedited screening, information is embedded in the barcode of his or her boarding pass. A logo or “TSA PRE” is also printed on the boarding pass near the traveler’s name. When the TSA agent at a participating airport scans the barcode, eligible travelers will be directed to a lane. Note that not all airports offer lanes. Children ages 12 and under may accompany an eligible traveler through . As of April 2015, travelers without a KTN/PASS ID/DoD ID number, including those who previously opted in through a frequent flyer program, will notice a reduction in the number of times they are chosen by the TSA for . Additionally, the TSA will always incorporate random and unpredictable security measures throughout the airport, and in order to retain a certain element of randomness, no individual will be guaranteed expedited screening. Visit tsa.gov/tsa-precheck to learn more.

Expedited entry Clearance in the U.S.—Global Entry™ expedited passport control and customs CBP offers the Global Entry program to expedite the processing of preapproved, low-risk international travelers entering the U.S. Upon returning from travel abroad, travelers enrolled in Global Entry may bypass the regular passport control line and proceed to the Global Entry kiosk. Please note that Global Entry is not available to travelers arriving at Honolulu directly from Guam. For detailed information, including eligibility requirements and the enrollment process, visit globalentry.gov.

OneStop Lanes in Chicago and Houston shorten your walk If you didn’t check any bags, proceed to the OneStop lanes, regardless of your nationality or final destination. Global Entry kiosks are available. In Houston, you may also use the OneStop lanes if you checked a bag and are immediately connecting to another United-operated international flight.

Safety information NEED TO KNOW Customer safety is our primary concern. Our ﬂight attendants are trained thoroughly in all safety procedures. But as expert as they are, in the event of an emergency they need help from you, the customer. You should be aware of the following:

EXIT Location of the nearest emergency exit

The correct procedure for exiting the cabin in an emergency

Where your oxygen mask will appear, how to start the oxygen ﬂow and how to use the mask

Please look carefully at the safety information card located in the seat pocket in front of you

Poisons, radioactive material, corrosive and oxidizing agents

Liquid and solid explosives

Smoking is not permitted. Federal law imposes ﬁnes of $1,000 for smoking and up to $2,200 for any attempt to disable an aircraft’s smoke detectors. We prohibit the use of e-cigarettes and personal vaporizers on our ﬂights.

NEVER PERMITTED The Federal Aviation Administration and the Transportation Security Administration prohibit hazardous materials in either checked or carry-on baggage. Substantial fines can be imposed for violations.

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Flammable liquids, gases and compressed gases

Spare lithium batteries can never be in checked baggage, including gate-checked bags. Stow all spare batteries in carry-on bags. E-cigarettes and personal vaporizers are also not permitted in checked bags.

It is a violation of federal regulations to drink alcoholic beverages during a ﬂight unless they are served by our personnel. Also, airlines are forbidden to serve alcoholic beverages to anyone who appears to be intoxicated.

JULY 2015 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

04/06/2015 11:13

travel info

Use of personal electronic devices

Are there any exceptions to using personal devices under this new policy? The captain may request that all devices be fully turned off in certain circumstances, such as for poor visibility landings. Please always listen to and follow crewmember instructions. Does the new policy allow me to use a small notebook laptop? No. The new policy does not apply to laptops or DVD players,

Travel notes

which may only be used when announced by your flight crew. Will I be able to use Wi-Fi below 10,000 feet? Our aircraft equipped with satellite Wi-Fi are currently configured to allow Wi-Fi above 10,000 feet. However, we are exploring options to provide gate-to-gate Wi-Fi in the future. When can I use in-seat power? Use of in-seat power is prohibited during taxi, takeoff and landing. PERMITTED Small, lightweight PEDs (Personal Electronic Devices) may remain on from door closure to landing Cell phones should be in airplane mode or have cellular service disabled Bluetooth devices LIMITED PERMISSION Laptops and DVD players must be stowed in approved carry-on baggage during taxi, takeoff and landing

CUSTOMER CARE We are committed to providing quality service, and we want to hear about your travel experience with us. In addition, if you think a certain employee or an action taken on your behalf deserves special recognition, please let us know. Please give us your comments at united.com/feedback.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JULY 2015

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Rechargeable batteries Rechargeable batteries have a risk of overload or fire when not stored properly. Rechargeable batteries should be stored in their electronic devices or properly protected to avoid contact with metal or other batteries during flight. All spare batteries should be protected from short circuit and stowed only in your carry-on bags.

What is the new portable electronic device policy? Travelers may use small, lightweight portable electronic devices in non-cellular or “airplane” mode on United- and United Express®-operated flights gate-to-gate. This policy applies to flights operating within the 50 U.S. states, all U.S. territories and select international locations as announced by the flight attendant on your flight. How do devices need to be secured or stowed? Devices may be held in hand (not left unsecured around the seat) or placed in a garment pocket or in the seatback pocket, as long as the device is less than 2 pounds. Devices weighing more than 2 pounds must be stowed in approved carry-on baggage in the overhead compartment or under the seat in front of you during take-off, taxi and landing. In an emergency situation, all devices must be turned off and stowed. For international destinations, your flight attendants will advise if it’s necessary to turn off and stow your device.

customs & safety

Can I make calls or send text messages? The use of cellular network services during the flight is not permitted by the Federal Communications Commission (FCC). The use of any voice application, such as a Web-based Voice over Internet Protocol (VoIP) service, in connection with inflight Wi-Fi service, is not permitted.

NEVER PERMITTED Radio Receivers and/or transmitters, including AM/FM/SW/CB and Scanners Televisions Remote-controlled toys Personal air puriﬁers Spare lithium batteries in checked or gate-checked bags E-cigarettes or personal vaporizers in checked or gate-checked bags ADDITIONAL INFORMATION All devices must be used with sound off or with headsets at all times

CAN I TAKE PHOTOS AND VIDEO ONBOARD? Yes. The use of small cameras or mobile devices for photography and video is permitted on board, provided you keep the purpose of your photography and video to capturing personal events. Photographing or recording other customers or airline personnel without their express consent is prohibited.

E-cigarettes or personal vaporizers may accidentally activate in baggage. This may cause the device to overheat or overload and may cause a fire. For this reason, these devices must be stowed in your carry-on baggage only. Advanced mobile phones, PDAs and other personal electronic devices with wireless capabilities may be used in flight when switched to “airplane” mode. A visible airplane-disabled mode should be identifiable and shown to a crew member upon request. Flight attendants will notify mobile phone and two-way pager users when it is safe to begin placing or receiving phone calls or pages after landing. One-way pagers may be used to receive messages at any time. PLEASE NOTE Customers may always use any medically prescribed physiological instrument, such as a hearing aid or a pacemaker. On aircraft equipped with in-ear headphones, customers with hearing-assistance devices may request a different headset from a flight attendant. Passengers are allowed to use non-battery-operated headphones during taxi, takeoff and landing. The in-seat power system may be used only above 10,000 feet. Use of the system is at your own risk. Do not remove batteries. We are not responsible for loss of data or damage to computer hardware or software.

PLEASE NOTE United strictly prohibits the modification or use of any object or device to alter or limit the functionality, permanently or temporarily, of any aircraft structure, seat assembly, tray table, etc. If you see a customer using any such device or object, please inform United personnel immediately.

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04/06/2015 11:13

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08/06/2015 13:49

GAMES

European Rivers

ALL THEME CLUES ARE IN BOLD If you fill in the crossword, please take the magazine with you so it’s replaced. Answers on page 52

BY GREG BRUCE

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HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JULY 2015

ACROSS 1. Low-lying area 5. Undersea vegetation 9. Reunion attendee 13. Go on a spree 17. Roundish 18. Key material 20. Coward’s lack 21. Batman’s place 22. “___ of the Flies” 23. “Ditto” 24. Vatican City’s river 25. Lie next to 26. American ___ (Richard Gere movie) 28. Sleuth 29. Town ofﬁcer 30. Scrabble piece 31. Like devoted fans 33. Futurist 35. Playful aquatic animal 36. Ethically neutral 39. Ram’s ma’am 40. Pews’ place 42. Pass over 45. Codeine source 47. Pet rodent for some 51. Extinct ﬂightless bird 52. Silk or velvet, e.g. 55. Long-winded 56. Rink surface 57. Game piece 58. Amorphous 60. Stage part 61. Site of the Henley Regatta 63. Mickey Mantle’s number 64. Player 65. Burial receptacle 70. Bond’s bar order 72. Dried coconut meat 75. Built for speed 77. River through four world capitals 81. Final word 82. Like some grapes 85. Morse E 86. “This instant!” 87. Guest 89. Not included 91. Filly’s father 92. Unkeyed, musically

103-104_HEMI0715_PUZZLES.indd 103

crossword

93. Check for fit 94. Give voice to 95. Hidden valley 97. Hair raiser? 99. Deep secrets 101. Theater platform 104. Pencil-box item 107. Infinite 111. Downtime 112. Separately 113. Flow’s partner 116. New Haven local 117. Voice below soprano 118. Cologne’s river 119. “Peanuts” cry 121. Not pro 122. Coffin stand 123. Taxi ticker 124. Inclined 125. Make a mess of 126. Lively 127. Go after flies 128. Backstroked 129. Pitchfork part DOWN 1. Europe’s longest river 2. Steer clear of 3. Florida’s Key ___ 4. Lost City of Gold 5. Place for an obi 6. Cain raiser 7. Plenty 8. Brace 9. For each 10. Actionable words 11. Odd 12. A ___ pittance 13. Absentminded type 14. Nun’s attire 15. Seed-to-be 16. Nursery rhyme boy 19. It’s used to walk the dog 20. Scarecrow stuffing 27. Margarita fruit 32. Response to a bad pun 34. Negligent 35. Finished 37. Suitable 38. In ___ of (replacing) 41. Middle ___

42. Rewrite 43. Ness, e.g. 44. What comes to mind 46. Ornamental vase 48. Ship’s pole 49. “Cast Away” setting 50. Odd look 52. Physics calculation 53. Attention-getter 54. Kind of lamp 55. Let off steam 57. City near Phoenix 59. ___ capita 62. Trumpet-shaped ﬂower 64. Pesky insect 66. Cybercafe patron 67. Bass, for one 68. Make over

69. Kennel cry 71. Zac Efron now 72. Spanish sparkling white wine 73. Fail to mention 74. Coin in Cancún 76. Kitchen whistler 78. Squad 79. Hardly the life of the party 80. Pitcher 82. Boot bottom 83. Round Table title 84. Asian legume 85. Fandango or tango 88. A ﬁsherman may spin one 90. Head-tail connection 91. Strong and unwavering

94. Pull strings? 96. Huey, Dewey or Louie 97. January’s birthstone 98. Fragrant compound 100. Pre-game offering 101. Marble units 102. Garden bulb 103. Fiddle with 105. Indian yogurt condiment 106. Harvest 108. World-weariness 109. 60’s protest 110. Left Bank river 112. Venus de Milo’s lack 114. Moblile phone signal strength indicator 115. Forehead 120. African antelope

08/06/2015 12:21

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09/06/2015 09:05

GAMES

sudoku

The Numbers Game BY REIKO MCLAUGHLIN

105

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JULY 2015

ANSWERS

1. EASY

2. MEDIUM

3. MEDIUM

4. HARD

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12/06/2015 09:22

star alliance

travel info

Global reach. Worldwide recognition. Excellent travel services.

Star Alliance Member Airlines

United and Star Alliance member airlines provide seamless air travel around the world. Star Alliance is the world’s largest global airline alliance, with more than 18,500 daily flights departing to 1,321 destinations. Customers have access to a comprehensive global network, frequent-flyer travel benefits and worldwide lounge access on all Star Alliance member airlines.

The Star Alliance network Established in 1997 as the first truly global airline alliance to offer customers a worldwide travel network, Star Alliance aims to provide customers with a seamless travel experience across multiple airlines. The Star Alliance lounge network is the largest in the world, with more than 1,000 locations worldwide. Earn miles and status faster With the largest airline alliance, you can earn MileagePlus award miles almost anywhere in the world you fly. Miles can be earned on most fares on almost any Star Alliance flight and can be credited to your account. Plus, the flight miles will count toward Premier® status. Earn recognition around the world The more that you fly with United and the Star Alliance airlines, the higher your status can be. MileagePlus Premier status is recognized across the alliance as either Star Alliance Silver or Star Alliance Gold, with travel benefits worldwide. Go to united.com/staralliance for the Star Alliance Silver and Gold status benefits you can receive. Award travel is now easier With Star Alliance Awards, you can use your MileagePlus award miles for award travel on any Star Alliance carrier worldwide. Or, use them for Star Alliance Upgrade Awards and upgrade to a premium cabin for maximum comfort (available on most Star Alliance airlines).

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Other Airline Partners You can earn and/or redeem award miles on many of our other airline partners. See united.com/airlinepartners for speciﬁc information about each of our other airline partners. • Aer Lingus • Aeromar • Air Dolomiti • Amtrak (train) • Azul

• Cape Air • Edelweiss • Germanwings • Great Lakes • Hawaiian Airlines

• Island Air • Jet Airways • Silver Airways

JULY 2015 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

04/06/2015 11:14

ENTERTAINMENT MOVIES & TV

AUDIO

PERSONAL DEVICE ENTERTAINMENT

Marvel’s The Avengers: Age of Ultron Enjoy movies and shows on the mainscreen or on your personal displays in July

The Divergent Series: Insurgent What to watch:

Cinderella The SpongeBob Movie: Sponge Out of Water Focus Most ﬁlms have been edited for airline use. However, customer discretion is still advised. Content guidelines are provided as a courtesy to help our customers decide whether to view a ﬁlm.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JULY 2015

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The Big Bang Theory

Featuring

Page 116

Digital media loading occurs between the 25th of one month and the 5th of the following month. As a result, please understand if your ﬂight features a different lineup before or after the start of each month.

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04/06/2015 11:27

movies & tv

entertainment

Enjoy these movies on the mainscreen Films are shown on ﬂights of three hours or longer. Schedules and selections are subject to change. En el canal 10 encontrará películas y programas de televisión disponibles en Español. Flights within Micronesia or Asia on 737 aircraft may feature these ﬁlms or other selections.

FREE ACCESS Welcome aboard. United is pleased to offer the following entertainment options throughout its fleet. Please refer to your safety seatback card to determine your flight’s aircraft and then consult the chart below to determine the entertainment options available on your flight.* on Ec y

m iu em Pr bin ca

Aircraft

A319 A320

Marvel’s The Avengers: Age of Ultron [T]

The Divergent Series: Insurgent [T] EASTBOUND/SOUTHBOUND

WESTBOUND/NORTHBOUND

1 hr. 59 min. In this sequel, Tris and Four are

2 hr. 21 min. Marvel Studios presents the

now fugitives on the run, hunted by Jeanine, the leader of the power-hungry Erudite elite. Racing against time, they must ﬁnd out what Tris’ family sacriﬁced their lives to protect, and why the Erudite leaders will do anything to stop them.

follow-up to the biggest superhero movie of all time. When Tony Stark tries to jumpstart a dormant peacekeeping program, things go awry, and Iron Man, Captain America, Thor, the Incredible Hulk, Black Widow and Hawkeye must come together to save the planet once again.

FEATURING Shailene Woodley, Kate DIRECTED BY Robert Schwentke

FEATURING Robert Downey DIRECTED BY Joss Whedon

Winslet

Jr., Chris Hemsworth

Select B757-300 B777-200 77H/Y

Select B737-700 B737-800/900

Short Subject Programming Not all programming is available on all ﬂights.

Select B757-300 B757-200 75J (p.s.) B757-200 75B B767-300 76E B767-400 B777-200 77D/J/Q B787-8 78V B747-400 47C B767-300 67I Select B737-700 (Guam) B757-200 57Q B757-200 57U, X

The Big Bang Theory [T]

Chopped

22 min. CBS’s wildly popular sitcom follows a pair of brilliant physicists as they learn life lessons from their beautiful, street-smart neighbor. In this episode, the crew prepares for the opening of Stuart’s comic book store, and Penny teaches Sheldon how to let go—only to ﬁnd how hard it is to take her own advice.

43 min. This reality show features a cooking contest that emphasizes skill, speed and ingenuity, with four chefs competing before a panel of expert judges to turn baskets of mystery ingredients into extraordinary three-course meals. In this episode, the chefs’ creations are based on cheese.

FEATURING Jim Parsons, PRESENTED BY CBS

FEATURING Ted Allen PRESENTED BY Food Network

Kaley Cuoco

Select B757-300

Mainscreen: View the mainscreen entertainment selections on your ﬂight at right. For passengers on a B747-400, see page 109.

ADDITIONAL TELEVISION

The Goldbergs • Bizarre Foods: Delicious Destinations • Scorpion [T] • Parks and Recreation • The Middle • Metropolis • Mutant Planet

Personal Device Entertainment: Go to page 113 to learn about personal device entertainment. Seatback entertainment: Go to page 109 to view the entertainment selections on your ﬂight.

Available on international ﬂights

DirecTV: Go to pages 110–111 to view the DirecTV entertainment options on your ﬂight. Seatback on-demand entertainment: Browse the extensive library of entertainment options right from your seatback monitor. View some of the featured entertainment selections for this month at right.

Focus [T]

Cinderella

*Due to ongoing in-ﬂight entertainment system updates, please understand if your ﬂight features a different system than listed. We apologize for any inconvenience. **Depending on your aircraft, one of these entertainment systems listed will be available.

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1 hr., 45 min. In Disney’s live-action version of 1 hr., 45 min. Conman Nicky Spurgeon and the fairy-tale classic, Cate Blanchett delivers a his former ﬂame show up in Buenos Aires on delightfully wicked turn as Ella’s evil stepmother. opposing sides of the same scam. FEATURING Cate Blanchett, Lily DIRECTED BY Kenneth Branagh

James

FEATURING Will Smith, Margot Robbie DIRECTED BY Glenn Ficarra, John Requa

JULY 2015 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

10/06/2015 09:20

entertainment

B747 Mainscreen Programming

2 hr. = Two-hour block of television [T] = Adult themes

FROM U.S. UNITED KINGDOM

TO U.S.

The Divergent Series: Insurgent [T] 1 hr., 59 min. [e, g, f] Home 1 hr., 34 min. [e, g, f] 2 hr.

GERMANY

movies & tv

The Second Best Exotic Marigold Hotel 2 hr., 2 min. [e, g, f] Cinderella 1 hr., 45 min. [e, g, f] 2 hr.

Marvel’s The Avengers: Age of Ultron [T] 2 hr., 21 min. [e, g, f] The Longest Ride [T] 2 hr., 15 min. [e, g, f] 2 hr.

Focus [T] 1 hr., 45 min. [e, g, f] The SpongeBob Movie: Sponge Out of Water 1 hr., 33 min. [e, g, f] 2 hr.

AUSTRALIA JAPAN & SOUTH KOREA CHINA & HONG KONG

Marvel’s The Avengers: Age of Ultron [T] 2 hr., 21 min. [e, k, c] The Longest Ride [T] 2 hr., 15 min. [e, j, k, c]

The Divergent Series: Insurgent [T] 1 hr., 59 min. [e, j, k, c] Home 1 hr., 34 min. [e, j, k, c] 2 hr.

2 hr.

The Second Best Exotic Marigold Hotel 2 hr., 2 min. [e, j, k, c] Cinderella 1 hr., 45 min. [e, j, k, c]

Focus [T] 1 hr., 45 min. [e, k, c] The SpongeBob Movie: Sponge Out of Water 1 hr., 33 min. [e, j, k, c]

2 hr.

B767 Seatback Entertainment** CH.

EASTBOUND/SOUTHBOUND

WESTBOUND/NORTHBOUND

The Divergent Series: Insurgent [e, f, g, i, s, p]

Marvel’s The Avengers: Age of Ultron [e, f, g, i, s, p]

Home [e, f, g, i, s, p]

The Longest Ride [e, f, g, i, s, p]

Get Hard [e, f, g, i, s, p] DISCRETION ADVISED

Run All Night [e, f, g, i, s, p] DISCRETION ADVISED

Ex Machina [e, f, g, i, s, p] DISCRETION ADVISED

Woman in Gold [e, f, g, i, s, p]

RECENT FAVORITES

Raising Arizona [e]

Ace Ventura: Pet Detective [e]

FAMILY/ KIDS

Monsters, Inc. [e, f, g, i, s, p]

Enchanted [e, F, G, I, S, P]

PRIMETIME

Bizarre Foods: Delicious Destinations/ Shark Tank/Chopped

Metropolis/Mutant Planet/Booze Traveler

COMEDY

The Big Bang Theory/New Girl/Black-ish/It’s Always Sunny in Philadelphia DISCRETION ADVISED/One Big Happy

Parks and Recreation/The Middle/Mike & Molly/ Mom/Louie DISCRETION ADVISED

PREMIUM TELEVISION/ AIRSHOW

Marvel’s Agent Carter (x3)

Two and a Half Men (x5)

*Programming may vary based on length of route and languages will vary based on destination. **Only applicable to our 3-cabin 767-300 in Economy. If your aircraft features seatback on-demand entertainment, please use the touch screen to access content choices.

ENTERTAINMENT NOTES

The Second Best Exotic Marigold Hotel 2 hr., 2 min. In the sequel to the hit comedy,

The SpongeBob Movie: Sponge Out of Water

young manager Sonny prepares to expand the Best Exotic Marigold Hotel for the elderly.

1 hr., 33 min. The world’s favorite seadwelling invertebrate comes ashore for his most amazing adventure yet.

FEATURING Maggie Smith, Richard DIRECTED BY John Madden

FEATURING Antonio Banderas, DIRECTED BY Paul Tibbitt

Gere

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JULY 2015

R1_107_HEM0715_Entertainment.indd 109

Tom Kenny

Customers are welcome to view their own video entertainment aboard a United aircraft as long as they are able to show that the programming has an MPAA rating of “R” or less. International Language Tracks (G) Synchronisierte Versionen finden Sie auf Kanal 2 und 3 (wenn verfügbar). (J) 日本語の吹き替えはチャンネル2番および３番でお聴きいただけます。（一部英語音声のみとなります。） (C) 如果可用，在第2频道和第3频道将提供语言录音 (K) 채널 2,3에서 더빙버전이 제공됩니다 (G) German; (F) French; (P) Portuguese; (I) Italian; (S) Spanish; (J) Japanese; (C) Chinese; (K) Korean

109

10/06/2015 09:20

directv®

entertainment

What you want to watch You can select from more than 100 channels of live television along with a full slate of blockbuster Hollywood movies, sitcoms and dramas. Purchase DIRECTV® and stay entertained for your entire flight. HOW TO USE 1. Swipe your card* to begin. 2. Select your channel or movie and start watching. 3. Listen using your own headset or ask a flight attendant for complimentary earbuds. Your purchase is good for the entire flight, even when the aircraft door is open before takeoff, and you can turn the TV on and off throughout your flight. please note: Personal device entertainment is not offered on aircraft with seatback DIRECTV *MasterCard, Visa, American Express or Discover accepted. TV and movies are complimentary in first class.

TV Channels live television, movies, sitcoms and dramas A&E 265 ABC FAMILY 311 AL JAZEERA AMERICA 347 AMERICAN HEROES CHANNEL 287 ANIMAL 282 BBCA 264 BEIN 620 BET 329 BIG 10 610 BLOOMBERG 353 BOOM 298 BRAVO 237 BYU TV 374 CARTOON 296 CBS 390 CENTRIC 330 CHILLER 257 CLOO 308 CMT 327 CNBC 355 CNN 202

COMEDY 249 COOK 232 C-SPAN 350 C-SPAN2 351 CW 394 DEST 286 DISCOVERY 278 DISCOVERY FAMILY CHANNEL 294 DISNEY 290 DISNEY JR. 289 DISNEY XD 292 DIY 230 E! 236 ESPN 206 ESPN CLASSIC 614 ESPN2 209 ESPNEWS 207 ESQUIRE 235 ESPNU 208 FANTASY 704 FOOD 231 FOX 398

FOX BUSINESS FOX NEWS FOX SPORTS 1 FOX SPORTS 2 FX FX MOVIE FXX FYI GALA GOLF GSN H2 HALLMARK HGTV HISTORY HLN INVESTIGATION LEARNING LIFETIME LIFETIME MOVIE LINK MLB NETWORK MSNBC

359 360 219 618 248 258 619 266 404 218 233 271 312 229 269 204 285 280 252 253 375 213 356

MTV MTV2 NAT GEO NAT GEO WILD NBATV NBC NBC SPORTS NEWSMAX NFL NETWORK NICK NICK JR. NICK TOON NRB OUTDOOR OVATION OXYGEN PIVOT REDZONE RFD TV SCIENCE SEC NETWORK SPIKE SPORTSMAN

331 333 276 283 216 392 220 349 212 299 301 302 378 606 274 251 267 703 345 284 611 241 605

SYFY TBS TEEN NICK TENNIS TNT TRAVEL TRUTV TURNER MOVIE TV GUIDE TV LAND TVG UNI SPORTS UNIVISION UP TV USA VH1 VH1 CLASSIC WEA WGN WORD

244 247 303 217 245 277 246 256 273 304 602 625 402 338 242 335 337 362 307 373

Exact channel numbers and programming schedules are subject to change. DIRECTV® service is not available on ﬂights outside the continental United States. The signal may be lost in turbulence and/or if banking of the aircraft is required. DIRECTV® and United Airlines are not responsible for interruptions of service that are beyond our control including, without limitation, acts of nature, power failure or any other cause. ©2013 DIRECTV® Inc. DIRECTV® and the Cyclone Design logo are registered trademarks of DIRECTV® Inc. All other trademarks and service marks are the property of their respective owners.

Group Discount

2off

each purchase.

110

110_HEM0715_Direct_TV.indd 110

Traveling with family or friends? Swipe the same card on three or more screens and receive $2 off each purchase.

JULY 2015 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

04/06/2015 11:39

entertainment

directv®

Movies Choose from a lineup of top Hollywood films The best from the box office are yours for the choosing! This month, don’t miss the team assembled and back at it in Avengers: Age of Ultron, toughen up with Will Ferrell and Kevin Hart in Get Hard, meet the new extraterrestrial on the block in Home and tune in for a gripping romantic drama in The Longest Ride. Other options include Run All Night, Focus, Unfinished Business and Tinker Bell and the Legend of the NeverBeast.

Tribeca Films Enjoy selections from the Tribeca Film Festival Enjoy selections from the Tribeca Film Festival, including Sparrows Dance; Paulie; Trust Me, I’m a Lifeguard; and The Pink Helmet Posse. United Airlines is proud to be the ofﬁcial airline of the Tribeca Film Festival.

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JULY 2015

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04/06/2015 11:39

NE W

ly e et th h h G on or t wit m f 0 es 00 K. 40 nut of 2 TAL i m ice EM pr W

“My friends all hate their cell phones… I love mine!” FREE No Car t C Contrac h a rger Here’s why.

Say good-bye to everything you hate about cell phones. Say hello to Jitterbug. “Cell phones have gotten so small, I can barely dial mine.” Not Jitterbug®, it features a larger keypad for easier dialing. It even has an oversized display so you can actually see it.

was 200 NOW 400

$14.99

$19.99

Monthly Minutes Monthly Rate Operator Assistance 911 Access Long Distance Calls

“I had to get my son to program it.” Your Jitterbug set-up process is simple. We’ll even pre-program it with your favorite numbers.

Voice Dial

24/7

FREE

No add’l charge

FREE

YES

30 days

Nationwide Coverage Friendly Return Policy1

24/7

More minute plans available. Ask your Jitterbug expert for details.

“I tried my sister’s cell phone… I couldn’t hear it.” Jitterbug is designed with an improved speaker. There’s an adjustable volume control, and Jitterbug is hearing-aid compatible.

“My cell phone company wants to lock me in on a two-year contract!” Not Jitterbug, there’s no contract to sign and no penalty if you discontinue your service. “I’ll be paying for minutes I’ll never use!” Not with Jitterbug, unused minutes carry over to the next month, there’s no roaming fee and no additional charge for long distance.

“I don’t need stock quotes, Internet sites or games on my phone, I just want to talk with my family and friends.” Life is complicated enough… Jitterbug is simple.

“My phone’s battery only lasts a couple of days.” The Jitterbug’s battery lasts for up to 25 days on standby.

“What if I don’t remember a number?” Friendly, helpful Jitterbug operators are available 24 hours a day and will even greet you by name when you call. “I’d like a cell phone to use in an emergency, but I don’t want a high monthly bill.” Jitterbug has a plan to fit your needs… and your budget.

Available in Blue and Red.

Order now and receive a FREE Car Charger for your Jitterbug – a $24.99 value. Call now!

Enough talk. Isn’t it time you found out more about the cell phone that’s changing all the rules? Call now, Jitterbug product experts are standing by.

NEW Jitterbug5 Cell Phone Call toll free today to get your own Jitterbug5. Please mention promotional code 60338.

1-877-654-4133

www.jitterbugdirect.com 47637

We proudly accept the following credit cards.

IMPORTANT CONSUMER INFORMATION: WEMTALK offer valid on 400 minute plan and applies to new GreatCall customers only. Offer valid until plan is changed or cancelled. Jitterbug is owned by GreatCall, Inc. Your invoices will come from GreatCall. All rate plans and services require the purchase of a Jitterbug phone and a one-time set up fee of $35. Coverage and service is not available everywhere. Other charges and restrictions may apply. Screen images simulated. There are no additional fees to call Jitterbug’s 24-hour U.S. Based Customer Service. However, for calls to an Operator in which a service is completed, minutes will be deducted from your monthly balance equal to the length of the call and any call connected by the Operator, plus an additional 5 minutes. Monthly minutes carry over and are available for 60 days. If you exceed the minute balance on your account, you will be billed at 35¢ for each minute used over the balance. Monthly rate plans do not include government taxes or assessment surcharges. Prices and fees subject to change. We will refund the full price of the GreatCall phone and the activation fee (or set-up fee) if it is returned within 30 days of purchase in like-new condition. We will also refund your first monthly service charge if you have less than 30 minutes of usage. If you have more than 30 minutes of usage, a per minute charge of 35 cents will be deducted from your refund for each minute over 30 minutes.You will be charged a $10 restocking fee. The shipping charges are not refundable. Jitterbug and GreatCall are registered trademarks of GreatCall, Inc. Samsung is a registered trademark of Samsung Electronics Co., Ltd. ©2015 Samsung Telecommunications America, LLC. ©2015 GreatCall, Inc. ©2015 firstSTREET for Boomers and Beyond, Inc.

No.40848_FirstSTREET 1pp.indd 1

12/06/2015 08:49

entertainment

personal device entertainment

Enjoy movies and TV shows Personal device entertainment lets you access a free onboard library of movies and TV shows that you can watch on your own device during the flight.

FREE ACCESS

Connect to Wi-Fi network On all devices, enable airplane mode and Wi-Fi, then connect to the “United_Wi-Fi” network. There is no charge to connect to this network for the ability to stream free onboard entertainment.

Watch on a laptop

Open browser

Watch on mobile devices† Have you installed the United app? Download before leaving the gate to access all content.

Go to www.unitedwiﬁ.com Due to a change made by Google, Chrome support is temporarily unavailable. Please use one of our other supported browsers.

Select entertainment

250

Over planes equipped with personal device entertainment

Open browser

Personal device entertainment installation progress

Go to www.unitedwiﬁ.com or Open the United app and select the Entertainment icon

A319 100% complete

A320 100% complete

Select entertainment 737-900ER* 0% complete

747-400 100% complete

757* 16% complete

767 25% complete

777 12% complete

Play

You may be prompted to download a plug-in inﬂight

If you have the latest version of the United app, play any show. Without the United app, you can play shows not marked with the key icon.

†Apple or Android devices Note that devices must be used with sound off or with headsets at all times

HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM • JULY 2015

113_HEM0715_PDE+WIFI.indd 113

787 0% complete

CRJ700/E170/E175 70% complete Excludes aircraft retirements *Select 737 and 757 aircraft offer only DIRECTV. Please see pages 116–117 for content selections.

113

04/06/2015 11:41

inflight wi-fi

entertainment

675

Over planes equipped with Wi-Fi

Wi-Fi installation progress For the latest information on installation progress and Wi-Fi satellite coverage, visit united.com/Wi-Fi.

Get online, in flight We know it is important to stay connected while you ﬂy. For that reason, we are working to equip both our domestic and international aircraft with Wi-Fi.

A319 100% complete

HOW TO CONNECT A320 100% complete

1. Once your flight crew says that it’s safe to use large portable electronic devices, connect to the “United_Wi-Fi” network.* 2. Open your browser, go to unitedwifi.com.

737 82% complete Estimated ﬂeet completion: September 2015

3. Select an Internet access option and click “Purchase access.” To determine if your flight offers United Wi-Fi,SM you can go to united.com or United’s mobile app and check the Inflight Amenities tab on the Flight Status & Information page for an upcoming flight.

747-400 100% complete

757 serving p.s.® routes 100% complete

*Select p.s. and two-cabin regional aircraft will connect to the gogoinﬂight network

Troubleshooting connectivity issues Check the status icon on the United Wi-Fi home page, unitedwiﬁ.com.

757 serving non-p.s. routes 71% complete Estimated ﬂeet completion: September 2015

767 75% complete Estimated ﬂeet completion: November 2015

If you see a red icon, the aircraft isn’t connected to the Internet yet—please wait.

If you see a green icon, continue to purchase Internet access.

Ensure your device is wireless enabled while in airplane mode. You must also enable JavaScript and cookies.

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION 777 99% complete Estimated ﬂeet completion: October 2015

787 39% complete Estimated ﬂeet completion: early 2016

CRJ700/E170/E175 70% complete Estimated ﬂeet completion (excludes aircraft retirements): July 2015

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WI-FI ON P.S.® AND UNITED EXPRESS® FLIGHTS

KEEP IN MIND

United currently offers Gogo® Internet service on p.s. Premium Service transcontinental aircraft flying between New York (JFK) and both Los Angeles (LAX) and San Francisco (SFO) as well as select United Express aircraft.

• Video playback, including streaming services such as Neflix, Hulu and HBO GO, is not supported

COVERAGE • Global satellite availability is limited over polar routes and other government areas • Internet coverage will be limited to the continental United States on all 737 and select 757-300 aircraft • Internet coverage will be limited to the continental United States and Canada on two-cabin regional aircraft

• Voice over Internet Protocol (VoIP) and video or audio conferencing is expressly prohibited onboard • If you are using VPN, you will not be able to return to the unitedfwifi.com inflight page. You will need to disconnect VPN to access the inflight site. PLEASE NOTE United is committed to offering you high quality and dependable Wi-Fi service during your flight. If we did not meet your expectation, and you would like to request a refund for your Wi-Fi purchase, please visit united.com/refunds to submit a refund request.

JULY 2015 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

04/06/2015 11:42

Free entertainment streamed directly to your device.

No.00000 UA_Hemi_June_2015_Private_Screening 1pp.indd 1

08/06/2015 09:03

audio

entertainment

Audio Channels by Aircraft

Vevo brings a library of 100,000 music videos and live concert performances to everyone on the planet who loves music. With our new partnership, watch hundreds of new selections curated exclusively by Vevo, for United, every month. Available on our seatback on-demand systems and via personal device entertainment:* Top Videos

Live Performances

Alternative Videos

1980s

Certiﬁed Videos

1990s

Top Country

2000s

Emerging Artists

One Direction

Vevo Shows

Daryl Hall & John Oates

Behind the Scenes

Top Latin

*Certain aircraft may feature a selection of the channels listed above.

737 & 757-300

747

Introducing Vevo on United 1

Movie

(English)

Today’s hits

R&B

Movie (Dubbed) Movie (Dubbed)

Classical

Country

Relaxation

’70s

’80s

From the ﬂight

Your official destination for United gear Collect precisionengineered models of the United® livery, apparel, travel items and more. unitedshop.com

’80s From the ﬂight deck

—

deck or R&B

Shop

757 & 767

or Modern rock

Listen to channel 9 for your flight number to hear live communication between the flight deck and FAA air traffic control. This feature, unique to United, may not be available on all flights, including oceanic crossings with limited audio communication. Available at your captain’s discretion.

Movie

(Dubbed)

Modern rock

—

Today’s hits

Teen pop

K-pop

J-pop

—

C-pop

—

Latin or J-pop on

—

Micronesia ﬂights

Audio Mixes Available on aircraft with seatback on-demand entertainment

’70s

’80s

Modern Rock

R&B

Country

Teen pop

Today’s hits

Latin

Classical

Relaxation

Korean pop

Japanese pop

Chinese pop

Artist spotlight

Earbuds are now available for purchase on p.s.® Premium Service flights between JFK and LAX/SFO, and select flights to or from Hawaii Sit back, relax and enjoy our inﬂight entertainment selections. Ask your ﬂight attendant for details.

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JULY 2015 • HEMISPHERESMAGAZINE.COM

04/06/2015 11:43

Free entertainment streamed directly to your device.

No.00000 UA_Hemi_July_2015_Seize_the_Journey 1pp.indd 1

08/06/2015 09:02

ELEVATED DINING CHOICE MENU | BEVER AGES | INTERNATIONAL ECONOMY

The Trotter Project

The Trotter Project is a non-profit organization committed to inspiring the next generation of culinary minds.

A culinary partnership takes flight

n 2015, United began a culinary journey to bring you an enhanced onboard dining experience. We have developed a new approach to onboard food offerings, influenced by the unique flavors and tastes of our global destinations. As a part of this culinary evolution, United is excited to present new menus designed in collaboration with The Trotter Project. Chicagoland native and world-renowned chef Charlie Trotter advanced culinary excellence through his own work while also being an active participant in his community. After his passing, his alumni chefs, of which many have received James Beard awards or own Michelin starred restaurants, wanted to find a way to continue his charitable and educational initiatives. They joined with his family to found The Trotter Project, a nonprofit organization committed to mentoring and inspiring a new generation of culinary minds.

118-122_HEMS_0715.indd 118

Unitedâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s team of chefs and participating Trotter Project chefs have combined forces to develop a variety of new food offerings. Our new, fresh food options will appear in our Bistro on Board Choice Menu beginning this month. In the Fall, United p.s. customers will enjoy premium menus produced by Trotter Project affiliated chefs from New York, Los Angeles, and San Francisco, incorporating the current flavors from local restaurants in each city. Our culinary partnership with The Trotter Project will continue in the years to come, enhancing onboard food offerings for all of our customers. We invite you to learn more about our Trotter Project affiliated chefs by visiting united.com/ thetrotterproject.

12/06/2015 09:40

JULY 2015

AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE BETWEEN 5:00 AM AND 9:45 AM ON MOST FLIGHTS SCHEDULED OVER 3.5 HOURS WITHIN NORTH AMERICA INCLUDING THE CARIBBEAN AND LATIN AMERICA (EXCEPT PERU AND VENEZUELA)

latin america

domestic Chicken Chorizo Bistro Scramble $9.99

Ham & Swiss Baguette $9.99

Scrambled eggs, chicken chorizo, roasted poblano and red potatoes, shredded monterey and cheddar cheeses, scallions, and cilantro

AVAILABLE ONLY ON FLIGHTS BETWEEN GUAM AND HONOLULU

Pretzel baguette with ham, swiss cheese, and creamy spread Contains: Egg, milk, soybeans

Contains: Egg, milk, soybeans

Fresh Start Breakfast Selection $6.99 Fresh fruit, gruyere cheese, and zucchini bread Contains: Egg, milk, soybeans, tree nuts (almond), wheat

Organic Steel Cut Oatmeal $7.49

DEPARTING CARIBBEAN, CENTRAL AMERICA, MEXICO, COLOMBIA AND ECUADOR. ENJOY FROM 5:00 AM AND 9:45 AM

Turkey & Cheddar Cheese Baguette $8.99 Baguette with turkey, cheddar cheese, and mustard-mayonnaise spread Contains: Egg, milk, wheat

MAY NOT BE AVAILABLE ON FLIGHTS BETWEEN GUAM AND HONOLULU

Cranberries, brown sugar and butter Contains: Milk, wheat

ON GUAM TO HONOLULU

Served with muffin as sweet bread Contains: Egg, milk, soybeans, tree nuts (almond), wheat Vegetarian Option

Only available on select aircraft. May be served warm. Please ask a flight attendant for details.

Menu and beverage options may vary by flight. We apologize if your preferred choice is not available.

118-122_HEMS_0715.indd 119

12/06/2015 09:40

AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE BETWEEN 9:45 AM AND 8:00 PM ON MOST FLIGHTS SCHEDULED OVER 3.5 HOURS WITHIN NORTH AMERICA INCLUDING THE CARIBBEAN AND LATIN AMERICA (EXCEPT PERU AND VENEZUELA)

domestic

latin america

Artisan Cheese Selection $8.99 Four cheese selection, crackers, grapes, honey, and chocolate Contains: Milk, soybeans, tree nuts (almond), wheat

Sliced Sirloin Baguette $9.49

DEPARTING CARIBBEAN, CENTRAL AMERICA, MEXICO, COLOMBIA AND ECUADOR. ENJOY BETWEEN 9:45 AM AND 8:00 PM

ENJOY FROM 9:45 AM TO 3:00 PM

Chicken & Cheese Baguette $8.99 Herbed baguette with chicken, cheddar cheese, and spicy mayonnaise

Baguette with sliced beef sirloin, blue cheese, caramelized onions, arugula, and creamy spread

Contains: Egg, milk, wheat

Contains: Egg, milk, soybeans, wheat

Bistro Box $9.49 A half wrap of sriracha waldorf chicken salad, spring mix salad with strawberries, mandarin oranges, and white balsamic dressing, finished with red grapes and chocolate

Thai Curry Chicken Bowl $9.99

Contains: Egg, milk, soybeans, tree nuts (walnut and almond), wheat

Contains: Fish (anchovy), soybeans, tree nuts (coconut)

Crispy Chicken Wrap $8.99 Tortilla filled with breaded chicken, tomato salsa, lettuce, and creamy spread

ENJOY FROM 3:00 PM TO 8:00 PM

Contains: Milk, wheat

Chicken breast with creamy curry sauce, mushrooms, edamame, sautéed peppers, and rice

Teriyaki Chicken Salad $8.99 Teriyaki-glazed chicken, lettuce, cucumber and tomato with mango vinaigrette, and a side of pineapple slaw Contains: Egg, soybean

AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE ALL DAY ON MOST DOMESTIC AND INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS SCHEDULED OVER 2 HOURS (EXCLUDES FLIGHTS: UNITED STATES TO AND FROM PERU AND VENEZUELA AND INTRA-ASIA)

Tapas $8.99 Mediterranean Snacks® Sea Salt Lentil Crackers, La Panzanella® Rosemary Crackers, Hummus, Olives, Roasted Red Pepper Bruschetta, Rondelé® Peppercorn Parmesan Cheese Spread, Natural Almonds, Brookside® Dark Chocolate with Fruit Flavor Classic $7.99

Select $8.99 Mediterranean Snacks® Cracked Pepper Lentil Crackers, Smoked Gouda Gourmet Cheese Spread, Salami, Cookie, Hickory Smoked Almonds

Snackpack $4.49 Graham Crackers, Nutella® Hazelnut Spread, Whole Natural Almonds, Dried Apricots

Totally Natural Kettle Cooked Potato Chips, Cream Crackers, White Cheddar Gourmet Cheese Spread, Salami, Dried Fruit Mix, Chocolate Chip Cookie, Swedish Fish®

Chex Mix® Traditional Snack Mix $3.99

Haribo® GoldBears® Gummi Candy

Pringles® Original Potato Crisps

$3.99

Vegetarian Option

$3.99

Sheila G’sTM Chocolate Chip Brownie Brittle

Wild Garden® Hummus Dip & Multi Grain Pita Chips

Sweet & Savory Bistro Blend Trail Mix

$3.99

$5.29

Only available on select aircraft. May be served warm. Please ask a ﬂight attendant for details.

Free on flights between the contiguous United States and Africa, Asia, Australia, Europe, and South America (Argentina, Brazil, and Chile only).

118-122_HEMS_0715.indd 120

12/06/2015 09:40

beverages

fresh product ingredients

Non-Alcoholic

Bistro on Board products may contain food allergens such as crustacean shellfish, egg, fish, milk, soybean, tree nuts, or wheat.

COMPLIMENTARY AND AVAILABLE ON MOST FLIGHTS

Coca-Cola,® Coke Zero,® Diet Coke®

Sprite®

DASANI® Lime Sparkling Water

DASANI® Bottled Water Minute Maid®: Apple Juice, Cranberry Apple Juice Cocktail, Orange Juice

Mott’s® Tomato Juice Mr & Mrs T® Bloody Mary Mix Seagram’s®: Ginger Ale, Seltzer Water, Tonic Water

Hawaiian Kona Blend Coffee

Decaffeinated Coffee

Hot Tea

Alcoholic AVAILABLE FOR PURCHASE IN UNITED ECONOMY® ON SELECT FLIGHTS Alcohol may be served to customers over 21 only.

Beer J

Budweiser,® Miller® Lite $6.99

Goose IPA and Heineken® $7.99

Spirits $7.99 J

Tito’s Handmade VODKA®

Bacardi® Superior Rum

Canadian Club® Whisky

Dewar’s® “White Label®” Blended Scotch Whisky

Jack Daniel’s® Tennessee Whiskey Jim Beam® Devil’s Cut® Bourbon Whiskey

Premium Spirits & Liqueurs $8.99 J

Courvoisier® VSOP Fine Champagne Cognac

Baileys® Irish Cream

Bombay Sapphire® Dry Gin

MOST INTERNATIONAL FLIGHTS J

Crown Royal Canadian Whisky

Baileys® Irish Cream

Bombay Sapphire® Dry Gin

House Wines (187ml) $7.99 AVAIL A BLE ONLY ON DOME S TIC FLIGHT S J

House Red and White

AVAILABLE ONLY ON FLIGHTS BETWEEN HAWAII AND THE MAINLAND UNITED STATES AS WELL AS GUAM J

Sparkling Wine

Premium Wine (375ml) $15.99 AVAILABLE BETWEEN THE CONTIGUOUS UNITED STATES AND MOST INTERNATIONAL CITIES AS WELL BETWEEN JFK/SFO AND LAX Beverage vouchers may not be used to obtain premium wines. J

Wente Vineyards Reliz Creek Pinot Noir, Arroyo Seco/Monterey, California Hess Chardonnay, Monterey, California

Specialty Cocktail $9.99 AVAILABLE BETWEEN THE CONTIGUOUS UNITED S TATE S A ND H AWAII J

Trader Vic’s® Mai Tai

We are proud to recycle aluminium cans, newspapers, and plastic bottles on eligible flights.

Today’s Bistro on Board menu was produced for you in collaboration with the following Trotter Project-affiliated chefs: Della Gossett, Executive Pastry Chef - Spago Priscila Satkoff, Chef/Owner - Salpicon Michael Taus, Chef/Owner - Taus Authentic Guillermo Tellez-Cruz, Executive Chef - Flora’s Field Kitchen

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SUMMER SELECTIONS Refer to product label for packaged item ingredients FRESH START BREAKFAST SELECTION Grand cru cheese: Pasteurized cultured milk, salt, enzymes; Zucchini bread: Sugar, enriched bromated flour bleach (wheat flour, enzyme, niacin, reduced iron, potassium bromate, thiamine mononitate, riboflavin, folic acid), shredded zucchini, eggs, buttermilk (cultured low-fat milk, food starch-modified, carrageenan, salt, nonfat milk, vitamin A palmitate), shredded carrots, soybean oil, walnuts; contains less than 2% of the following: baking soda, salt, cinnamon, natural and artificial flavors; fruit selection. Contains: Wheat, egg, soybeans, milk, tree nuts (walnut). ORGANIC STEEL CUT OATMEAL Oatmeal: Water, cooked organic steel cut oats groats, salt; cranberries, brown sugar; butter: sweet cream, salt. Contains: Wheat, milk CHICKEN CHORIZO BISTRO SCRAMBLE Scrambled Eggs(Whole Eggs, Skim Milk, Soybean Oil, Modified Corn Starch, Salt, Xanthan Gum, Liquid Pepper Extract, Citric Acid, Natural and Artificial Butter Flavor, [Butter, (Cream, Milk), Partially Hydrogenated Soybean and Cotton Seed Oil, Lipolyzed Butter Oil, Natural Flavors and Artificial Flavors),Potatoes (Potatoes, Canola Oil, Olive Oil, Disodium Dihydrogen Pyrophosphate (To Promote Color Retention), Dextrose), Chicken Chorizo Sausage(Chicken Thigh, Water, Salt, Spices And Spice Extractives, Paprika, Dehydrated Red Bell Peppers, Minced Onion And Garlic, Onion And Garlic Powder, Sugar),Cheddar Monterey Jack Cheese (Cheddar Cheese (Pasteurized Milk, Cheese Cultures, Salt, Enzymes, Annatto Vegetable Color), Monterey Jack Cheese (Pasteurized Milk, Cheese Cultures, Salt, Enzymes), Potato Starch, Corn Starch, Cellulose (Anti-Caking Agents)),Roasted Onions, Roasted Poblano Pepper, Roasted Green Pepper, Scallions, Cilantro.Contains Allergens: Eggs, Milk, Soy HAM AND SWISS BAGUETTE Pretzel baguette: Wheat flour (malted barley flour, potassium bromate), water, sugar, salt, shortening, yeast, dough conditioner (wheat flour, datem, dextrose, soybean oil, ascorbic acid, I-cysteine, azodicarbonamide, enzymes); Ham: Cured with water, salt, sugar, dextrose, sodium phosphates, sodium erythorbate, sodium nitrite; Swiss cheese: Pasteurized part-skim milk, cheese culture, salt, enzymes; Creamy spread: Cream Cheese (sugar, pasteurized milk, and cream, (trivial source of fat) carob bean gum, salt, artificial color, xanthan gum, artificial flavor); Sour cream (Grade A cultured cream). Contains: Wheat, soybean, milk. ARTISAN CHEESE SELECTION Brie: Pasteurized milk and cream, salt, Cheese cultures, enzymes, calcium chloride; Smoked gouda cheese: Pasteurized cultured milk, enzymes, salt, water, sodium phosphate, potassium sorbate (preservative), apo-carotenal (color); Cheddar cheese: Pasteurized milk, cheese cultures, salt, enzymes, annatto coloring; Grand cru cheese: Pasteurized cultured milk, salt, enzymes; Milk chocolate: (Sugar, Cocoa Butter, Unsweetened Chocolate, Skim Milk, Milk, Butteroil, Soy Lecithin (Emulsifier), Natural Flavor), Sugar, Corn Syrup, Palm Oil, Milk, Cocoa Butter, Heavy Cream, Rice Starch, Butter, Molasses, Invert Sugar, Soy Lecithin (Emulsifier), Baking Soda, Almonds, Natural Flavor, Tocopherols (Antioxidants), Artificial Flavor, Vanillin an Artificial Flavor, Salt; and Olive Oil & Sea Salt Crackers*.Honey Contains: Milk, wheat, soybean. Contains: Milk, wheat, soybeans, tree nuts (almond). SLICED SIRLOIN BAGUETTE Sweet brioche: Wheat flour (malted barley flour, potassium bromate), water, sugar, salt, margarine, egg yolk, yeast, vanilla, egg color, dough conditioner (wheat flour, datem, dextrose, soybean oil, ascorbic acid, I-Cysteine, azodicarbonamide, enzymes); Roast beef: Beef sirloin, kosher salt, black pepper; Cheddar cheese: pasteurized milk, cheese cultures, salt, enzymes, annatto coloring; Blue cheese crumble: Milk, cheese cultures, salt, microbial enzyme, animal enzyme, penicillium roqueforti; Cream spread: Cream cheese Pasteurized Milk and Cream, Whey Protein Concentrate, Salt, Carob Bean Gum, Xanthan Gum, Cheese Culture.Blue Cheese Crumble: Milk, cheese cultures, salt, microbial enzyme, animal enzyme, penicillium roqueforti, arugula, Caramelized onion: red onion, red balsamic vinaigrette, vegetable oil. Contains: Wheat, egg, soybeans, milk BISTRO BOX Chicken breast: Water, modified corn starch, seasoning (salt, sugar, onion powder, garlic powder, paprika, black pepper, thyme, savory), vegetable oil (canola oil, extra virgin olive oil), sodium phosphates, chicken base (chicken meat including natural chicken juices, salt, corn maltodextrin, cane sugar, chicken fat, dried onion, natural flavor, turmeric) salt, corn maltodextrin, caramel color; Tortilla: Enriched flour (wheat flour, malted barley flour, niacin, reduced iron, thiamine mononitrate, riboflavin, folic acid), water, vegetable shortening (interesterfied soybean oil, hydrogenated cottonseed oil), contains less than 2% of each of the following; oat fiber, salt, wheat flour, baking powder (baking soda, sodium aluminum sulfate, calcium carbonate, corn starch, monocalcium phosphate), calcium propionate and potassium sorbate (preservatives), fumaric acid, sugar, distilled monoglycerides, cellulose gum, inactive yeast, guar gum, soy lecithin, maltodextrin, carrageenan, L-cysteine; Lettuce; Sriracha mayonnaise: Mayonnaise (soybean oil, water, whole eggs and egg yolks, vinegar, salt, sugar, lemon juice, calcium disodium EDTA (used to protect quality), natural flavors), Sriracha sauce (chili 70%, water, sugar, garlic, flavor Enhancer (E621) , Stabilizer (E415),Citric acid (E330), Preservatives (E202) , lemon juice, celery, granny smith apples, red grapes, green grapes, black pepper; Spring salad: Mix greens; strawberries, Mandarin oranges, walnuts, feta cheese (Pasteurized Skim Milk, Salt, Cheese Cultures, Corn Starch, Enzymes, Color added, Vitamin A Palmitate, Natamycin (Natural Mold Inhibitor*); Red Grapes; Milk chocolate: Sugar, Cocoa Butter, Unsweetened Chocolate, Skim Milk, Milk, Butteroil, Soy Lecithin (Emulsifier), Natural Flavor), Sugar, Corn Syrup, Palm Oil, Milk, Cocoa Butter, Heavy Cream, Rice Starch, Butter, Molasses, Invert Sugar, Soy Lecithin (Emulsifier), Baking Soda, Almonds, Natural Flavor, Tocopherols (Antioxidants), Artificial Flavor, Vanillin an Artificial Flavor, Salt. Contains: Milk, wheat, soybeans, egg, tree nuts (walnut and almond) THAI STYLE CHICKEN & JASMINE RICE Chicken Breast, Coconut Milk (coconut milk, water, guar gum and sodium carboxy methyl cellulose, polysorbate 60, sodium metabisulfite), Water, Edamame (shelled soybean), Shallots, Dark Brown Sugar, Red Curry Paste (red chili pepper, garlic, soybean oil, lemongrass, galangal, salt, shallot, spices, kaffir lime), Vegetable Oil (canola oil, extra virgin olive oil), Tamarind Concentrate (tamarind fruit, water, natural corn starch), Shiitake Mushrooms (contains sulfites), Fish Sauce (anchovy extract, salt, sugar), Lime Juice, Basil, Salt, Modified Corn Starch, Paprika, White Pepper, Xanthan Gum; Jasmine rice: Water jasmine rice, salt; Stir fry mixed vegetables: carrots, celery, red bell pepper, yellow bell pepper, Thai sweet basil, vegetable oil, salt, black pepper. Contains: Tree nuts (coconut), fish (anchovy), soybeans

All flights accept credit/debit cards only To view and print your receipts from inflight purchases made through smartphones used by flight attendants on mainline United® operated flights. Please visit united.com/inflightreceipts

12/06/2015 09:40

INTRODUCING

United’s new international economy service inspired by you This month, we are proud to unveil a new United Economy® service on our long-haul international ﬂights. Using feedback from you, our valued customers, we have designed a thoughtful approach to service meant to elevate the experience throughout your journey. 3

2 1

H 2O

FIRST COURSE To start, your three-course meal begins with an appetizer that pairs well with our complimentary beer and wine.

SECOND COURSE The main course features a selection of refreshed entrées with one of our new salads and artisan bread, all served in our newly designed tray table setup.

THIRD COURSE To ﬁnish, enjoy a sweet dessert of gelato, rich mousse, or ice cream, based on today’s menu.

COMPLIMENTARY WATER Keep yourself hydrated with an individual bottle of water.

See below article

NEW THIS MONTH

User-friendly dining W

e’ve completely redesigned our international economy food and beverage service and we’re excited to introduce a new table setting that is optimized for today’s traveler. The newly designed tray better ﬁts most of our tray tables and allows you to continue enjoying the movies and TV shows on your Personal Electronic Device uninterrupted throughout the meal service. This is just one of the many ways United is creating a user-friendly airline for you.

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SNACK OPTIONS Throughout your ﬂight, enjoy one of our premium snacks for purchase. Please refer to our Choice Menu Snack Shop for our selection on page 120.

Your culinary journey continues with a light snack or entrée, depending on today’s menu, to help you arrive refreshed.

12/06/2015 09:41

UNDENIABLY UNIQUE. UNMISTAKABLY TURNBERRY. NOW SELLING Residences available from $4 million. Appointments recommended (888) 647-0929 info@turnberryoceanclub.com TURNBERRYOCEANCLUB.COM

WE ARE PLEDGED TO THE LETTER AND SPIRIT OF THE U.S. POLICY FOR ACHIEVEMENT OF EQUAL HOUSING OPPORTUNITY THROUGHOUT THE NATION. WE ENCOURAGE AND SUPPORT AN AFFIRMATIVE ADVERTISING AND MARKETING PROGRAM WHICH THERE ARE NO BARRIERS TO OBTAINING HOUSING BECAUSE OF RACE, COLOR, RELIGION, SEX, HANDICAP, FAMILIAL STATUS OR NATIONAL ORIGIN. THE SKETCHES, RENDERINGS, PICTURES AND ILLUSTRATIONS ARE PROPOSED ONLY AND THE DEVELOPER RESERVES THE RIGHT TO MODIFY, REVISE OR WITHDRAW ANY OR ALL OF THE SAME AT ITS SOLE DISCRETION WITHOUT NOTICE. THE RENDERINGS ILLUSTRATE AND DEPICT A LIFESTYLE, HOWEVER, AMENITIES, FEATURES AND SPEFICIATIONS ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT NOTICE. ALL INFORMATION IS DEEMED RELIABLE BUT IS NOT GUARANTEED AND SHOULD BE INDEPENDENTLY VERIFIED. ALL REAL ESTATE ADVERTISED HEREIN IS SUBJECT TO THE US FEDERAL FAIR HOUSING ACT OF 1968 WHICH MAKES IT ILLEGAL TO MAKE OR PUBLISH ANY ADVERTISEMENT THAT INDICATES ANY PREFERENCE, LIMITATION, OR DISCRIMINATION BASED ON RACE, COLOR, RELIGION, SEX, HANDICAP, FAMILIAL STATUS, OR NATIONAL ORIGIN. PLEASE CHECK WITH YOUR LOCAL GOVERNMENT AGENCY FOR MORE INFORMATION. ORAL REPRESENTATIONS CANNOT BE RELIED UPON AS CORRECTLY STATING REPRESENTATIONS OF THE DEVELOPER. FOR CORRECT REPRESENTATIONS, MAKE REFERENCE TO THIS BROCHURE AND TO THE DOCUMENTS REQUIRED BY SECTION 718.503, FLORIDA STATUTES, TO BE FURNISHED BY A DEVELOPER TO A BUYER OR LESSEE. THIS IS NOT AN OFFER FOR CONTRACT OR SALE IN THE STATES OF NY, NJ OR MASS. THE STATEMENTS MADE CONCERNING THE TURNBERRY OCEAN CLUB DO NOT CONSTITUTE OFFERS TO SELL, OR A SOLICITATION OF AN OFFER TO BUY A UNIT IN THAT CONDOMINIUM. NO SOLICITATION, OFFER OR SALE OF A UNIT IN THE CONDOMINIUM WILL BE MADE IN ANY JURISDICTION IN WHICH SUCH ACTIVITY WOULD BE UNLAWFUL PRIOR TO REGISTRATION UNDER THE LAWS OF SUCH JURISDICTION. MARKETING AND BRANDING BY TURNBERRY AND CONWAY+PARTNERS

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12/06/2015 16:39

T I S S OT Q U I C K ST E R L U G A N O. I N T E RC H A N G E A B L E ST R A P S, 3 16 L S TA I N L E S S S T E E L C AS E , S C R AT C H - R E S I S TA N T SA P P H I R E CRYSTAL AND WATER RESISTANCE UP TO 10 BAR (10 0 M / 330 FT). I N N OVATO RS BY T R A D I T I O N .

TISSOT.CH

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08/06/2015 14:28