Hawaii Magazine Summer 2024 by aio Hawaiʻi

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FROM HANALEI TO HALE‘IWA, HAWAI‘I’S OCEANSIDE TOWNS OFFER MORE THAN JUST BEAUTIFUL BEACHES.

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DESTINATIO N WEDDINGS IN HAWAI‘I PA GE S 39 -5 1

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SUMMER 2 02 4 ISSUE • VOLUME 4 1, NO.3

Lifeʼs a Beach

Wellness Awaits

From Hanalei to Hale‘iwa, Hawai‘i’s oceanside towns offer more than just beautiful beaches.

After the Covid-19 pandemic, more travelers are seeking out wellness experiences in the Islands.

BY GRACE M AE DA &

BY CATHER INE TOT H FOX

photo: aaron k. yoshino

CAT H E RI NE TOT H FOX

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IN THIS ISSUE ISLAND HOPPING 13 O‘ahu: Where Mauka Meets Makai Just past Waikīkī, O‘ahu’s southeast coast unfolds—and makes for the perfect road trip. BY KE VI N ALLE N

16 Maui: Honoring Heritage, Embracing Tomorrow A night of tradition and celebration at the reopened Old Lahaina Lū‘au connects the past and future of Maui. BY ASH LE Y P ROBST

19 Kaua‘i: Kaua‘iʼs Enchanted Forest The picturesque Wai Koa Loop Trail is a stroll through the island’s agricultural history. BY CAT H E RI N E TOTH FOX

22 Hawai‘i Island: A Vine Time for Vanilla Hawaiian Vanilla Co. In Pa‘auilo offers ways to learn about—and taste—this aromatic spice.

BY J E ANNE COOPER

DEPARTMENTS 6

Editor’s Page Hello Summer! BY CAT HE R INE TOT H FOX

54 Mālama Growing Food and Community BY CAT HE R INE TOT H FOX

Ho‘omaka 7 Mai Tai Time 10 Q&A with Carissa Moore 12 Wearing Aloha

52 Kau Kau An Ode to the Mango

56 One Last Look PHOTO BY A A R O N K . YO S H I N O

58 Like a Local For the Love of POG BY SA R A H BU R C HA R D

O L D L A H A IN A LŪ ‘AU IS BAC K P.1 6

H IK E K AUA‘ I’ S E N C H A N T E D FO R E ST P.1 9

IT ’ S M A N G O SEASON

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ON THE COVER Hanauma Bay, O‘ahu. PHOTO BY A A R O N K . YO S HINO

(@honozooloo)

FROM HANALEI TO HALE‘IWA, HAWAI‘I’S OCEANSIDE TOWNS OFFER MORE THAN J UST BEAUTIFUL BEACHES.

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BY MA R IA K A NA I

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For Reserved Seats Call (808) 667-6060 www.oldlahainaluau.com HAWAI‘I Magazine (ISSN 0892-0990) All contents copyright © 2024. Published quarterly by aio Media Group, 1088 Bishop St., Ste. LL2, Honolulu, HI, 96813-3113. Phone: (808) 534-7520/ Fax: (808) 537-6455. POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to HAWAI‘I Magazine, 1088 Bishop St., Ste. LL2, Honolulu, HI, 96813-3113. © 2024 aio Media Group, LLC. All rights reserved. Any unauthorized copying, distribution, or adaptation is strictly prohibited and will result in liability of up to $100,000. Periodicals Postage Paid at Honolulu, Hawai‘i and at additional mailing offices. Subscription rate is $19.99 for 4 quarterly issues. Canadian and foreign surface, add $9 extra per year payable in U.S. funds. Single copy price is $5.99 U.S., $5.99 Canadian. Please allow 6-8 weeks for new subscriptions to begin. When changing address, give six weeks’ notice and address label from latest copy, as well as new address with ZIP code. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please write us at aio Media Group, 1088 Bishop St., Ste. LL2, Honolulu, HI, 96813-3113. Phone: (808) 534-7520/Fax: (808) 537-6455 or send us an e-mail to circulation@pacificbasin.net. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs are not accepted. Please wait for a response to your query before sending materials. Reasonable care in handling manuscripts and photographs will be taken, but HAWAI‘I Magazine cannot be responsible for unsolicited materials. Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Dept., Station A, P.O. Box 54, Windsor, ON N9A 6J5; cpcreturns@wdsmail.com Printed in the U.S.A.

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EDITORʼS PAGE

Hello Summer!

My Favorite Summer Things Bon Dances

Feeling the warm vibes.

It’s not really a question. It’s most often the response I get when I tell someone who doesn’t live here that I always look forward to summer. “Isn’t it always summer in Hawai‘i...?” See how that works? To be honest, it may feel that way, thanks to our year-round sunshine and minimally varying temperatures. But there are definite signs of the season. Like mangoes. They’re in season—and everywhere (Page 54). You’ll find varieties like Rapoza, Pirie and Haden in farmers markets and grocery stores, and on menus 6

HAWA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

Summer is obon season, a Japanese holiday that commemorates deceased ancestors. Sounds morbid, but the festival is actually a lot of fun, filled with dancing, taiko drumming and food like andagi, mochi and fried noodles.

Safe travels,

Mangos get all the attention during the summer months in Hawai‘i. But lychee is also in season, now through September. Many of us grew up peeling the prickly red skin and enjoying the sweet, juicy fruit inside. Insider tip: We pronounce it LIE-chee in the Islands.

C AT H E R I N E T O T H F O X

Email catherine@hawaiimagazine.com or find me on Instagram at @catherinetothfox.

Korean Bingsu

I’m obsessed with Korean bingsu, a lighter and fluffier version of Hawai‘i’s shave ice. (And it’s milkbased.) While O‘ahu has a few shops, Kaua‘i recently got its first: Familee Korean Shave Ice in Kapa‘a. All of the syrups and purées, even the azuki beans, are made in-house.

Lychee

photos: catherine toth fox, hawai‘i tourism authority/kazuya kajita, jeridu via getty images

“

SN’T IT ALWAYS SUMMER IN HAWAI‘I...?”

from MW Restaurant on O‘ahu to Kula Shave Ice on Hawai‘i Island. Or south swells. In fact, I first met surfing world champ and Olympian Carissa Moore (Page 10) in Waikīkī years ago, when she was just a kid surfing with her dad. She’s been charging south swells on O‘ahu ever since— and now going for her second gold medal in the sport in the 2024 Summer Games at the end of July. Summer brings longer days, languid brunches and lazy weekends spent camping—and making s’mores—at the beach. (At least that’s what we do!) Yes, it may be a busy time in the Islands, with visitors—and locals—spending their summer breaks at the beach, on the trails or indulging in shave ice. But you can’t beat that summer feeling—the urge to explore or relax or just get outdoors. And there’s no better place to do that than in Hawai‘i. You know where you can find me!

HO‘OMAKA

to begin

Mai Tai Time

Here are three unique mai tais to try in Honolulu. BY JULI E S TAN L EY

photo: aaron k. yoshino

ENTION A MAI TAI AND people

might think of dimly lit bars adorned with tiki torches and wooden masks, or maybe people lounging under swaying palms sipping cocktails garnished with tiny umbrellas. No matter the specific imagery, when most people think of mai tais they also think of Hawai‘i. And while the mai tai didn’t originate here, the two are undeniably interwoven.

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HO‘OMAKA |

TRENDS

A Brief History of the Mai Tai: A Tiki Staple

HAW A I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

E Ho‘o Pau Mai Tai

Bar Leather Apron Bar Leather Apron, opened by Justin Park and Tom Park (business partners of no relation) in Downtown Honolulu, has received multiple accolades, including most recently the prestigious James Beard Award for outstanding bar. The intimate space’s leather furnishings and polished wood create a moody vibe. Here, three-time Big Island mai tai competition winner Justin Park serves his 2015 winning recipe: Raisin-infused rum, spiced orgeat and vanilla are just three of the ingredients used to create his E Ho‘o Pau Mai Tai, a smoky, spiced libation that his fans say is incomparable. It’s not just the distinct flavors that make it spectacular, it’s also the presentation. A tiki head spills out kiawe wood smoke and lifts to reveal the drink beneath, garnished with a singular orange-peel zest. This distinguished bar accepts walk-ins but is often fully booked. So if you’d like to experience this award-winning cocktail, be sure to make a reservation online. 745 Fort St., #127A, Downtown Honolulu, barleatherapron.com, @barleatherapron

photo: courtesy bar leather apron

Trader Vic (Victor J. Bergeron Jr.) crafted the first mai tai at his Oakland restaurant for friends from Tahiti. The story goes that after tasting it they exclaimed “Maita‘i roa a‘e!” translating roughly to “the best” or “very good” and thus a shortened version, “mai tai,” became the name for his new tiki cocktail. His original version, commonly referred to as Trader Vic’s 1944 Mai Tai, featured a hefty portion of aged Jamaican rum mingled with a smaller balanced mix of orgeat, orange curacao, sugar syrup and lime juice. Bergeron’s recipe and version of how the mai tai came to be is widely considered the famous cocktail’s authentic origin story, but it wasn’t always so. The mai tai’s true beginning was the subject of a long-standing dispute between Bergeron and Ernest Gantt (aka Don the Beachcomber)—both of whom are considered the founders of tiki culture. Gantt is credited with establishing the first tiki restaurant in Hollywood in 1934, with Bergeron’s own tiki bar opening shortly after, and both men created hundreds of unique tiki drinks over the years, frequently including many of the same ingredients. As the mai tai grew in popularity Gantt himself—and many others— claimed he had actually created an earlier version of the cocktail that inspired Bergeron, even though Gantt’s drink included dramatically different ingredients like grapefruit juice, absinthe and Angostura bitters. Although both of the rivaling restaurateurs popularized the tiki concept of drinks and décor, it was Trader Vic who first brought the mai tai to Hawai‘i, where it was acclaimed around the world. It’s no surprise that the mai tai flourished in the Islands as much of tiki culture itself is largely inspired by Polynesia. Tiki cocktail culture has slipped into and out of the mainstream since its beginnings in the 1930s, but the mai tai has remained a staple in Hawai‘i since Bergeron brought it here in the early 1950s. Now the Hawai‘i-style mai tai has taken on a life of its own—from bars that simply mix spiced rum with tropical juices and top it with a dark rum float, to others that carefully craft their own recipes often with a topping of foam or their own macadamia nut rims. There’s no shortage of places to go for an amazing mai tai on O‘ahu, from Duke’s Waikīkī, known for its tiki-style glass and, of course, heavy dark rum float, to Monkeypod Kitchen, with its liliko‘i foam-topped version, to the classic Mai Tai Bar at the Royal Hawaiian hotel—the first Island home of Trader Vic’s cocktail and where the Hawaiian version was born. All of these restaurants are worthy stops on any mai tai tour, but here are three newer spots on O‘ahu where you can savor quality unique mai tais while also soaking in some Island ambience.

TRENDS

| HO‘OMAKA

Skull & Crown Trading Co. Located in Honolulu’s Chinatown, this traditional tiki bar has Polynesian-inspired décor with a dark twist. Fishing nets, skulls and treasure maps line the walls and ceilings; at times you feel as if you’re sipping cocktails on the deck of Blackbeard’s ship. This bar not only delivers on ambience but has an extensive list of signature and classic tiki cocktails to choose from, including three kinds of mai tais. Its ‘Awa‘awa Mai Tai has a refreshing agricole rum base with a strong and lingering Campari bitterness that balances out the sweetness of the liliko‘i. Garnished with a flaming sugar cube, the drink is delightful for all the senses. The Dagger Mai Tai is the bar’s signature “secret” drink, as only two people know the actual recipe. My palate picked up a spiced earthy flavor—possibly from aged Jamaican rum—and a hint of cinnamon mixed with berries. The overall experience of the tasting was an invigorating mystery. Mai Monkey Tai

62 N. Hotel St., Downtown Honolulu, (808) 372-0620, skullandcrowntrading.com, @skullandcrowntradingco Cool Kid Mai Tai

‘Awa‘awa Mai Tai (left), Dagger Mai Tai (right)

photos: aaron k. yoshino

Heyday Restaurant Heyday Restaurant in the White Sands Hotel is a serene oasis amid Waikīkī’s bustling urban center. The boutique hotel recently underwent a remodel but managed to maintain its retro and intimate feel. The bar itself is a large outdoor tiki-style hut furnished with swings—yes, swings—rather than traditional stools. Heyday’s bar menu boasts four kinds of mai tais, two of which are made only here. The Cool Kid Mai Tai incorporates concepts from both Bergeron’s and Gantt’s original mai tais by including flavors like grapefruit and orgeat with added bitter and citrus notes from Campari. The Mai Monkey Tai uses Hawai‘i Island māmaki tea-infused rums as well as agricole rum as the base. The tea infusion lends a naturally sweet yet earthy flavor and the agricole adds a slight vegetal note. Both of these mai tais are reminiscent of the original 1944 recipe, but with their own distinct flavor additions. 431 Nohonani St., Waikīkī, (808) 475-6864, heydayhawaii.com, @heydayhawaii SUMME R 2 0 24

HO‘OMAKA |

Q&A

Going for Gold

As five-time world surfing champion and Olympic gold medalist Carissa Moore gears up for her second Olympic Games, she shares her golden story. B Y G R AC E M AEDA

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

Q&A

N 2021 CARISSA MOORE clinched her fifth

World Surf League championship and a few months later became the first female to win an Olympic gold medal in surfing. And now the world can read all about it—and much more—in her new book, “Hawai‘i Gold: A Celebration of Surfing.”

It’s a remarkable tribute to the sport’s legacy in the Islands. “I wouldn’t be who I am today, as a woman and as an athlete, without the community, the waves, the people, the place where I was raised. That’s what the book is about: celebrating this place,” Moore says. Anyone who meets Moore immediately feels her warmth and bright spirit. She learned to surf in Waikīkī and grew up amid the waves off O‘ahu’s south shores. Today, her appreciation for the Islands and her community runs deep. And she’s not through yet: As her book comes out, she’s preparing to compete in the 2024 Summer Games in Paris. Released this April, “Hawai‘i Gold” is a compilation of enthralling tales and breathtaking photography. Through its pages, Moore chronicles the ways in which the waves and the local community have shaped her own story. With beautiful images and vivid anecdotes from Moore, her family members and fellow Hawai‘i surfers, readers get a glimpse into the close-knit communities bonded by the waves.

What inspired you to write a book? I’ve always wanted to write a book at some point but to make it all about me; that’s not who I am. I wanted to use this moment to celebrate Hawai‘i and celebrate the people that have put surfing in Hawai‘i on the map. I also love to scrapbook. I love photos and I love things that are tangible. So, it’s really cool to be able to put a book together of all the images that tell the story of home and things that are most important to me.

Surfing has become a cultural phenomenon around the world. Being Native Hawaiian, how important is it to share the origins of surfing?

photo: aaron k. yoshino

to Tahiti [the site of the surfing portion of the Summer Games in May], I know this is going to be different since I won’t be traveling the world in the lead up. The wave is also so different from the wave at the last Olympics in Japan. Teahupo‘o is a big, powerful, left-hand reef break. It’s super intimidating. I’m hoping I can go over there a few times to surf the wave and get comfortable.

From your incredible career, what competitions really stand out? I’m really proud of winning the Olympics and my fifth world title in the same year; it was super rewarding. It wasn’t just about the results but the accumulation of the process and personal growth that got me there. I overcame a lot of mental hurdles. I’m also really proud of a barrel I got at the Vans Pipe Masters [in 2022]. It was one of those moments where I was like I don’t know what I’m doing and I’m super scared but I went anyway and I surprised myself and got one of the best waves of my life. I didn’t win the contest but that moment was really cool.

“I hope through the experiences we provide...the girls are able to become a little more conscious and leave with at least one thing that inspires or empowers them.”

I think it’s often forgotten that surfing started in Hawai‘i and it’s Hawai‘i’s sport. Going through the Olympic process, I’ve found so much more pride for where I’ve come from, my culture, and all the people that came before me and paved the way—including Duke Kahanamoku. I find it so important to share surfing’s history. There’s something about learning, paying respect and acknowledging where we come from and all the people that have come before. We have to learn from them to go forward.

How have you been training for the 2024 Olympic Games? I feel like the best training for surfing is surfing and spending time in the water. But I have a trainer that I work with about three times a week when I’m home and I’ll go for runs or do yoga or Pilates. I love being active, so I do something everyday. This year looks a lot different because I’m stepping back from competing full time on the WSL Championship Tour. Leading up

| HO‘OMAKA

At recent WSL competitions, women’s heats have dominated the news. What are your predictions for women’s surfing at the professional level? I’m so excited to see where women’s surfing will go in five to 10 years. It’s been tremendous to see the growth, the evolution and the progression while being a part of it the last 14 years on the competitive side. When I first started, I was often the only girl in the water. Now, there’s sometimes more women than men. What’s so interesting is that the progression recently has been so rapid for women and it’s super inspiring.

What led you to create your foundation Moore Aloha?

I started Moore Aloha in 2018 when I was actually in a competitive slump. I was struggling to find motivation, joy and happiness in what I was doing. I felt like I was just going through the motions and didn’t feel driven with purpose and passion. So, my dad encouraged me to be of service to others. When I was growing up a young female in this sport, there weren’t as many opportunities. Moore Aloha was born because I wanted to create more opportunities for girls to get in the water, to step outside of their comfort zone, and to also have a safe space to be vulnerable and share their stories. I hope through the experiences we provide—the events, programs and monthly prompts—the girls are able to become a little more conscious and leave with at least one thing that inspires or empowers them. To purchase “Hawai‘i Gold” online, visit rizzoliusa.com/buy-online. To learn more about Moore Aloha, visit moorealoha.com. This story was edited for clarity and length. SUMME R 2 0 24

ART

Wearing Aloha

The Honolulu Museum of Art bridges history and culture with its new exhibit, “Fashioning Aloha,” a loving ode to nearly 90 years of aloha wear in Hawai‘i. B Y MARI A KAN AI

T’S BEEN ALMOST A WEEK

since the much-anticipated “Fashioning Aloha” exhibit opened at the Honolulu Museum of Art, and I have it mostly to myself. I can take my time walking around the immersive and informative galleries that explore nearly 90 years of aloha wear. Here, 53 garments are showcased, including holokū, mu‘umu‘u, holomu‘u and aloha shirts. The two galleries begin with kapa (Hawaiian bark cloth) samples made with māmaki fiber and kukui dye. A timeline on one wall traces the evolution of aloha wear from the 1800s through today, with milestones like the first “Made in Hawai‘i” label, the beginning of the Merrie Monarch 12

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

Festival, the inauguration of the Aloha Friday casual dress tradition and the debut of the song “Aloha Friday” by Kimo Kahoano and Paul Dean Natto. The loud vibrant prints on Hawai‘i’s vintage mu‘umu‘u and colorful aloha shirts remind me of the loose-fitting, ’80s clothes that my mom used to wear in Japan. I find similarities, too, with my childhood Sunday school frocks with oversized ruffles and conservative collars. But most of all, they remind me of my dad, who even at 78 and in a nursing home in Tokyo, asks for Tori Richard and Tommy Bahama shirts from Hawai‘i. The brighter and yellower the print, the better. “Don’t send me any of those muted blues or grays—it’s too

ojiichan,” he still tells me on the phone. Aloha shirts remind him of what it was like walking Waikīkī Beach every summer, and despite the years and physical distance between us, aloha wear is one thing that brings us together. What’s especially cool about the exhibit is how curator Tory Laitila has taken the time to research and source motifs found on aloha wear and pinpoint them to various points in time, both historically and culturally. Garments are placed alongside their textile motifs’ source materials from the museum’s textile collection. For example, Japanese woodblock prints, a stone poi pounder, hibiscus jewelry and perfume bottles with floral designs are paired next to aloha wear that showcase those same motifs. I see a silk nagajuban, a garment worn under kimono, and a chuba, a robe for a Tibetan aristocrat, decorated with a Chinese dragon motif. “We also looked at the motifs of history, music and location—for example, early aloha shirts were sort of a visible and wearable postcard. It would have landmarks on it, like a coded language of where you’re from and where you are represented,” says Laitila. “You can even find maps on the shirts—Sig Zane is a well-known designer who uses map motifs and Roberta Oaks references midcentury Hawaiian architecture on her shirts.” In another gallery more garments are on display. A video is playing on one wall, full of personal stories and photographs sent in from residents that showcase themselves, family and friends in aloha wear fashions, dating from 1935 to the present. Toward the back is a fun design studio where visitors can use stencils and paper, which are provided, to draw their own aloha wear motifs. Those creations are then added to the exhibit; stencil designs so far include silhouettes of sailboats, hibiscus, geometric kapa and a poi pounder. “I hope that when people visit ‘Fashioning Aloha,’ they might see something that they recognize in their closet,” Laitila says. “There is a revival of aloha wear and contemporary aloha fashion today. After seeing this exhibit, I hope that they’re conscious about what their clothing says about them.”

“Fashioning Aloha”

Through Sept. 1, 2024 Honolulu Museum of Art, Honolulu For more information visit honolulumuseum.org.

photo: aaron k. yoshino

HO‘OMAKA |

TKTK

| ISLANDS

Where Mauka Meets Makai Just past Waikīkī, O‘ahu’s southeast coast unfolds—and makes for the perfect road trip.

photo: aaron k. yoshino

STORY BY KEVIN ALLEN

HE EARLY MORNING SUN streaks through monkey-

pod trees as my wife, Kaila, and I walk the aisles of the Kapi‘olani Community College Farmers Market (4303 Diamond Head Road, Honolulu), run by the Hawai‘i Farm Bureau. Here, dozens of local farms and businesses sell their produce and products every week. And, it turns out, it’s also the perfect starting point for our road trip along O‘ahu’s southeastern coast.

The air is warm and the sky blue as we chow down on our hastily chosen picks from the market: a seared ‘ahi steak plate lunch from Hawaiian Style Chili and from Island Banana Juice (@island_banana_juice), a smoothie made entirely from Hawai‘i-grown bananas. From here, along the foothills of Lē‘ahi, better-known to the outside world as Diamond Head, we’ll make our way to Kalaniana‘ole Highway, with the Makapu‘u Lighthouse as our destination. I’m relatively unfamiliar with this side of the SUMME R 2 0 24

O ‘A H U

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island, and I’m excited to explore it. It’s home to sleepy coastal communities and, among other things, magnificent Maunalua Bay, according to mo‘olelo (stories), a landing spot for some of the earliest Polynesian voyagers to Hawai‘i. As we drive east through Wai‘alae and Kāhala, the small residential homes surrounding Kapi‘olani Community College are replaced with bigger, posher places. We drive past The Kāhala Hotel and Resort (5000 Kāhala Ave., Honolulu) the same way visitors to Los Angeles might drive past the Beverly Hills Hotel, pointing at its grand entryway and admiring its boutique luxury appeal. Opened in 1964, the resort fronts gorgeous Kāhala Beach. It’s the perfect place to stay if you’re looking to be near Waikīkī without being in Waikīkī. Entering the east side’s main thoroughfare, where the bustling H-1 Freeway becomes Kalaniana‘ole Highway, we drive past the residential neighborhoods of Wai‘alae Iki, ‘Āina Haina and Niu Valley. On our left, mauka (toward the mountains), residential roads wind up dry hills, and on our right, makai (toward the ocean), are beachfront homes and gated communities with dead-end streets that lead to hidden beach-access paths known only to those familiar with the area. Still feeling peckish, I make a pitstop at the ‘Āina Haina Shopping Center, where a surprisingly large amount of great food options await. Uncle Clay’s House of Pure Aloha (houseofpurealoha.com) serves shaveice made using artisanal syrups with locally sourced ingredients. But I’m not cravingsomething sweet. While Foodland Farms’ collection of grab-and-go bentos is the obvious option, I’m all about trying new things today and find myself chowing down on a vegan taco from Lē‘ahi Health (leahihealth.com). The bacon mustard taco ($11) is not what it seems—replace the bacon with a mix of kale, veggies, corn, black beans and coconut bacon, and the taco with a warm slice of pita bread topped with almonds—but it sure is delicious. Better yet, I actually feel better after eating it, with the fresh, healthy ingredients hitting all of my nutritional goals. With a pep in my step, we’re once again on the move. A few miles down the highway and we finally emerge in Hawai‘i Kai, where the next stop on our journey awaits. Past Hawai‘i Kai,Kalaniana‘ole Highway straddles a stretch of sharp, rocky coastline that’s a sight to see. As we skirt around Koko Crater, we’re sandwiched between jagged lava rock outcroppings and the big blue Pacific. It’s not a bad place to be, but we drive on, past numerous scenic lookouts. We’re headed for the most scenic of them all—the lookout atop Hālona Beach Cove. I’ve never been to Hālona Beach Cove myself, nor had I ever seen the equally famous Hālona Blowhole in action. But after standing at the lookout and watching the sun highlight the electric blue waters of the secluded beach below—the same beach that Burt Lancaster and Deborah Kerr frolicked on in the classic 1953 flick “From Here to Eternity”—I can understand why the cove is so revered. As waves rush into the cove, I head over to the blowhole and watch as ocean water erupts from a puka (hole) in the rocks. The blast carries 30 feet into the air, accompanied by the whooping and hollering of fellow spectators. Just down the road, Sandy Beach’s w hompingshorebreak entices us, but since our once blue skies have given

photo: aaron k. yoshino

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photo: aaron k. yoshino

way to gray clouds and intermittent showers, we opt to continue down to nearby Koko Crater Botanical Garden (7491 Kokonani St., Honolulu). As we enter the 60-acre city-run garden, located inside an old volcano crater, we’re greeted by a grove of plumeria trees, torrential rainfall and more kōlea, which migrate to Hawai‘i to escape the cold winters of Siberia and Alaska. Moving through the garden’s collection of trees, flowers and other plants from around the world, Kaila and I quickly agree: This is the highlight of our trip. From the massive cacti in the cactus garden to the pear-shaped baobab trees in the Africa garden, we’re astonished by the otherworldly flora. Despite the rain—and our very muddy shoes—we take our time here. But we eventually leave, headed for the Makapu‘u Point Lighthouse Trail. Perfect for families or individuals who just don’t want to work that hard on a hike—yes, that’s me—this paved walkway rises gradually to a scenic lookout with magnificent views of the southeast coast. As I stare out at the ocean, I spot a few honu (Hawaiian green sea turtles) bobbing in the water below, and nearby the iconic red-roofed Makapu‘u Lighthouse. Looking around some more, I spotmy wife. And combined with everything else I’ve seen, I realize what I’ve really been looking at since we left Lē‘ahi: the perfect Hawaiian day.

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Koko Crater Botanical Garden

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Born and raised on the sandy shores of O‘ahu’s North Shore, Kevin Allen loves the Islands that he calls home. When he’s not writing, Kevin likes to spend his free time surfing, cruising with his wife, playing music a ndjust hanging out with friends.

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The Imperial Hawaii Resort embodies the spirit of Hawaiian hospitality, caring for you like Ohana with courtesy, respect, and Aloha!

Timeshare Resort Resort Value Resort for Families Boutique Hotel

1(808) 923-1827

vpo@imperialofwaikiki.com

205 Lewers Street, Honolulu, HI 96815

Honoring Heritage, Embracing Tomorrow

A night of tradition and celebration at the reopened Old Lahaina Lū‘au connects the past and future of Maui. STORY BY ASHLEY PROBST P H O T O G R A P H Y B Y R YA N S I P H E R S

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HE SCENT OF PLUMERIA is in the air, carried

along by a soft breeze, and ocean waves crash along the nearby shore, one after another. It’s a soothing sound. Here, at the recently reopened Old Lahaina Lū‘au on Maui, guests are greeted by employees wearing matching floral dresses and pareo (sarong) and vibrant orchid lei (flower garlands). Returning to the lū‘au grounds feels like a long-awaited homecoming—a sentiment shared by many of us, lū‘au workers and attendees alike, who were deeply affected by the wildfire that devastated Lahaina on Aug. 8, 2023. More than 100 people died and thousands are still without homes, including my parents and me, as we lost the house I grew up in and our family business in the tragedy. “The biggest damage was that we had a very lush landscape and, for about three months, there was no water,” says Kawika Freitas, the lū‘au’s director of public and cultural relations. “We took a long time to even get it to

The traditional Hawaiian course includes (from bottom) ‘ahi poke, lomi lomi salmon, poi and pohole salad.

where it is now, and we’re working hard to get it back to its previous form.” With most of Lahaina, the onetime capital of the Hawaiian Kingdom,still in ruins all around the property, the return of this award-winning attraction is a symbol of hope, a promise of better things to come, like a phoenix rising from the ashes. “It would be a lot different if our location was where you’re looking out at devastation, but when you step inside here, you’re stepping into a different time,” Freitas says. Before the devastation, the aloha spirit was at the core of Lahaina. It still is. Only now, it’s accompanied by a beautiful wave of nostalgia. This place has survived the flames; from

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Guests of the Old Lahaina Lū‘au are taught how to hula during an interactive part of the show.

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its recent property blessing and the native tree-planting ceremony that took place prior to reopening, everything about it feels sacred. I’m overcome with gratitude that this significant piece of Lahaina survived the fire and can continue its mission to preserve Polynesian history and culture. Here, our education continues. After being escorted to an oceanfront table, I take in the venue. Along with conventional tables aremore traditional setups with floor mats. Nearby, I see various Hawaiian-style structures, a perfectly manicured central stage and a canoe by the water. Live Island music serves as the soundtrack as I watch guests settling in. Some are playing Hawaiian lawn games, others are purchasing handcrafted items from local vendors, some of whom are fellow fire survivors. Just beyond this laulima (working together) area is the centerpiece of any lū‘au: a smoking imu (underground oven) that contains a whole roasted pua‘a (pig). The evening’s festivities begin with an uncovering of the imu, and guests crowd around to witness the succulent porkbeing raised out of the earth. Before the main production begins, employees lead a heartfelt tribute to the losses suffered in Lahaina; guests are invited to participate in a moment of silence followed by a dedicated mele (song), which strikes a poignant yet hopeful note. In between the food and entertainment, I appreciate that the audience is given a moment to reflect and remember. The dining portion of the evening has kicked off. It’s a bit different from years past, but not because of the fire: Adhering to regulations born from the COVID pandemic, it’s transitioned from a buffet to a more elevated four-course prix fixe meal. To start, we’re served fresh chips made from taro and sweet potato with ‘ulu (breadfruit) hummus and cubes of haupia (coconut pudding) and kūlolo (taro and coconut pudding). The pūpū is paired with a welcome drink from the open bar, which has an extensive selection of iconic cocktails, including mai tais and lava flows. The menu also features local libations like Kula Organic Rum as well as beer and seltzer from Maui Brewing Co., including a specialty brew called ‘Uala Ale. As we sip our tropical cocktails, the sun sinks below the horizon and sunset-stained clouds settle atop the peaks of Kahālāwai, the Hawaiian name for the West Maui Mountains. Then, the entertainment commences. Rhythmic beats of the ipu (gourd drum) reverberate through the venue as hula dancers take to the stage with ‘ulī ‘ulī (gourd shakers). The dancers tell the story of the Hawaiian people, beginning with the earliest Polynesian voyagers. Additionally, an engaging interactive element allows guests to immerse themselves in the culture by learning a few basic hula steps. As the evening progresses, additional performances highlight various historical eras, including ancient Hawai‘i, the arrival of missionaries and modern times with a nod to the melting pot of cultures that the Islands have become. My personal favorite is a showcase of “Lahainaluna,” the anthem of Lahainaluna High School, where I graduated as a fourth-generation student. As dancers transition onstage and off, each new solo and group performance

Hula dancers tell the story of Hawaiian history.

brings refreshing energy—especially when cast members cheer for each other with an exuberant chee-hoo!—which keeps the audience captivated throughout the show. The local celebration continues with dinner, a traditional Hawaiian course of kālua pork, lau lau, ‘ahi poke, lomi lomi salmon, pohole salad and poi for the table to share. This is followed by a main course of grilled flat-iron steak, fresh fish with garlic-lemon aioli, liliko‘i (passion fruit) barbecue-glazed chicken, seasonal vegetables, ‘uala (sweet potato), and taro rolls with guava-honey butter. As the night draws to a close, guests are treated to coffee and tea and a house-made dessert: pineapple sponge cake garnished with chocolate shaped like a Hawaiian petroglyph. As a parting gift, each guest receives a piece of banana bread to enjoy at home—a reminder of the evening’s indulgences. This sweet finale perfectly encapsulates the spirit of rejuvenation and new beginnings for Maui, leaving a lingering sense of warmth and gratitude.

Old Lahaina Lū‘au

The cost for adults and teens is $230; children between 3 and 12 can attend for $140; there’s no charge for younger guests. Shows run Tuesday to Saturday and reservations are required. For more information, visit oldlahainaluau.com or call (808) 667-1998 to book tickets. Born and raised in Lahaina, Ashley Probst left Maui to study journalism at Chapman University and explore the world before returning to her roots. When she isn’t writing, she runs a tarot reading business and continues to travel whenever possible.

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Kaua‘iʼs Enchanted Forest

The picturesque Wai Koa Loop Trail is a stroll through the island’s agricultural history. S T O R Y B Y C AT H E R I N E T O T H F O X P H OTO G R A P H Y BY M A M I W YCO F F

T’S NOT EVERY DAY you walk through a forest of Hon-

duras mahogany trees in Hawai‘i—or anywhere, really. And yet, here we are, standing among more than 85,000 of these trees, planted in perfect rows on the Wai Koa Plantation, a 500-acre working farm on the north shore of Kaua‘i. Wai Koa is the largest mahogany plantation in the U.S. and among the largest in the world. The big-leaf tree, Swietenia macrophylla, is endangered in its native habitats of Central and South

America. It’s valued for its reddish-brown hardwood that’s most often used to make furniture, cabinets and musical instruments. On the Wai Koa Loop Trail, you can walk through these trees in what’s often referred to as an enchanted forest. The 4-mile trail is no longer a loop, as part of the trail was damaged in a storm, but it remains open to the public. I’ve walked the trail a few other times, but today I’m on a guided hike, a first for me. The luxe 1 Hotel Hanalei Bay, which opened in February 2023 on the cliffs above the bay, offers a SUMME R 2 0 24

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variety of experiences for its guests, including this hike led by a local expert. Our guide is Troy from Illinois, a laid-back 28-year-old who works as a landscaper and gardener in nearby Kīlauea. His family owns property on Kaua‘i and he spent a lot of time here as a kid before trading in the biting cold of Decatur for the lush greenery of the Garden Isle. I’m last to arrive at the hotel’s porte-cochère, where Troy, along with newlyweds from Dallas, are waiting. It’s a quick drive—not even 15 minutes— to the start of the trail mauka of Kalihiwai. We pull into the parking lot of the North Shore Dog Park, also on the private Wai Koa Plantation, which has been owned by Bill and Joan Porter since 2004. The couple kept access to the trail, which ends at a historic stone dam, open to the public. The trail—and dog park—are part of the bustling Anaina Hou Community Park, a nonprofit-run 30-acre campus with a pavilion that hosts cultural events and concerts, an 18-hole mini-golf course set in a botanical garden, a weekly farmers market and a 17,000-squarefoot playground constructed from 707,544 plastic milk jugs. Troy explains the history of the area, from its location downslope from Mount Wai‘ale‘ale, one of the wettest spots on Earth, to the agricultural evolution of this land from sugar to guava to mahogany. He tells the story of the nēnē (Hawaiian goose), once endangered and now considered a conservation success story. And he points out a patch of hilahila, or sleeping grass, along the start of the trail. He encourages the couple from Dallas to touch the leaves, which immediately shrink down, as if hiding or “sleeping.” “Hilahila means shy in Hawaiian,” he explains. “Makes sense, right?” We arrive at around 10 a.m.—later than I would have liked—and the cloudy skies mean it will either be a cool, comfortable hike or it’s going to rain soon. (Both turned out to be true.) Wai Koa is more stroll than hike, though I’m glad to be wearing my well-worn hiking shoes, as parts of the trail are muddy from rain a few days earlier. We walk past Norfolk Island pine trees planted in the early 1950s; ABOVE TOP they were meant to be The Wai Koa Loop Trail meanders harvested as Christmas through groves of trees but not all of them trees, including were cut down, and the Honduras mahagony. ones left make up what became known locally as ABOVE BOTTOM Kīlauea Woods. A statue of We make our way Buddha sits among bamboo trees. to the mahogany forest, 20

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stopping to snap photos and marvel at the perfect rows of trees. To me, this is the highlight of the hike. But to many others, it’s what comes a little later. We exit the mahogany forest and walk alongside an open pasture with views of the Makaleha and Namahana mountains. The former, which loosely translates to “to wonder in admiration,” reaches 3,215 feet at its highest point. Namahana, which means “twin branches,” is about 2,600 feet tall and nestled between the Kalihiwai and Kahiliholo streams that feed into Kīlauea River. And then we reach it. The Kīlauea Stone Dam. Some call it the crown jewel of the Wai Koa Loop Trail. The historic dam was completed in 1881, during the height of the sugar plantation era on Kaua‘i. Sugar played a central role in the development of Kīlauea, and for

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how locals eat it. He then points to a nearby grove of strawberry guava trees, called waiawī. He picks a red berry and hands it to the couple, encouraging them to take a bite. Clearly, we’re hungry. On the walk back we talk about where to get fresh poke nearby; about Hawai‘i’s great Filipino cuisine; and why the Dallas pair should try kūlolo, a dessert made from taro, coconut and sugar. We decide to grab lunch at Nourish Hanalei, a farm started by three sisters on Kaua‘i with a stand that serves açaí bowls, locally made organic bagels, seasonal lemonades and filling bowls of local veggies and rice. We sit at a picnic table, waving off feral chickens and gawking at the panoramic view of Hanalei. The couple, who a few days earlier had gotten married at a luxe resort on Maui, surrounded by family and friends, smile at each other. “This is the best part so far,” the wife says. “Yes,” agrees her husband. “We needed this.”

The Kīlauea Stone Dam was built in 1881.

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The trailhead is located at Anaina Hou Community Park, off of Kūhiō Highway. The trail is open to the public daily from dawn to dusk.

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nearly 100 years, Kīlauea Sugar farmed these lands. The dam was constructed to provide consistent water access to the plantation. Today, the meticulously landscaped area is a lush and peaceful place to stop and sit, maybe enjoy a picnic lunch (if you’re smart enough to plan ahead). We walk along the path that leads to the dam, water rushing over one side, the other side calm and tranquil. We keep walking, up a small hill through a bamboo grove. A statue of Buddha sits here, its moss-covered legs crossed, eyes closed. Troy says someone once told him this is a European Buddha—you can tell by the shape of its nose. I can’t disagree. Our guide shows us a fern—called hō‘i‘o, or pohole on Maui—and talks about

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A Vine Time for Vanilla Hawaiian Vanilla Co. in Pa‘auilo offers ways to learn about—and taste—this aromatic spice. STORY BY JEANNE COOPER PHOTOS BY SARAH ANDERSON

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’VE NEVER FOUND ANYTHING PLAIN ABOUT VANILLA . As a kid, I favored the rich-

ness of Baskin-Robbins’ French vanilla over gaudier rivals like Pink Bubblegum and Oregon Blackberry. And that small flat bottle of vanilla extract I’d use to make chocolate chip cookies was more than just an ingredient—it was something to savor. I’d inhale the perfume of a brimming teaspoon, then watch it transform creamed butter and sugar into something even more delicious. But it wasn’t until I was an adult that I discovered vanilla comes from vanilla beans, produced by orchids that only grow in a limited range, just north and south of the equator. Similar to growing saffron—the only spice more expensive than vanilla by weight— vanilla requires painstaking pollination and has to be harvested by hand. Fortunately, Hawai‘i is close enough to the equator for those vanilla bean-bearing orchids to grow, and since 1998, the Reddekopp family has been cultivating them. Jim and Tracy Reddekopp founded Hawaiian Vanilla Co. in Pa‘auilo, on the lush slopes of Hawai‘i Island’s Hāmākua Coast. I first visited the farm in early 2023, three years after Jim Reddekopp’s untimely passing. Reddekopp, a Honolulu native with a background in tourism and a Native Hawaiian mother who loved orchids, had worked with the late Kona orchid expert Tom Kadooka to develop his crop, initially sourcing Vanilla planifolia from Lyon Arboretum in Mānoa Valley on O‘ahu. Meanwhile, Tracy Reddekopp created vanilla-based products, recipes and farm experiences to showcase their aromatic harvest. Their son Ian, who grew up pollinating blossoms and now runs operations at the farm, led my breezy onehour tour. These days he has professional guides to lead the tours, but the format hasn’t changed. It starts with a short, paved walk downhill from the airy café and gift shop—where loaner umbrellas stand at the ready (this is the rainy side of the island, after all)—to the actual farm. From there, visitors spread out among the narrow rows of flat-leafed, green orchid vines climbing up bamboo poles and along horizontal metal wires in the shade house, a large tent with black netting arched over steel poles. The tour covers the history of the farm, the current state of the vanilla market—the majority of the world’s vanilla is still grown in Madagascar—and some fun facts about the growing cycle of the vanilla orchid. “The biggest is that the blossoms will only open for four hours and only one time a year, but they all bloom over a three-month period,” Ian Reddekopp says. In Hawai‘i, that’s usually March through May. “It’s an incredibly short period of time and then a human has to hand-pollinate it.” As intriguing as the tour is, the luncheon that precedes it is even more fascinating. Seated at tables for two and four in a solarium lined with ferns, guests enjoy a steady procession of sweet and savory dishes, which they can

wash down with vanilla lemonade, vanilla iced tea or a combination of both. It begins with an amuse-bouche of a garam masala shrimp sauteed in vanilla butter, and a dab of vanilla pineapple chutney on a crostini. The next plate features a main dish and two sides. The same chutney flavors the aioli in a sandwich of chicken breast marinated in vanilla bourbon and served on a vanilla sweet bread bun with caramelized onion (vegetarians can opt for a puff pastry filled with warm cheese chutney). Vanilla honey peppered pecans, vanilla raspberry balsamic dressing and a sprinkle of feta cheese add a delectable array of tastes to a green salad, while a vanilla southwestern rub enlivens roasted potatoes. The icing on the luncheon cake is actually ice cream—Roselani’s Hawaiian Vanilla Bean, made on Maui—much to the delight of my inner kid. But if you want to skip a tour and lunch, and just order a scoop or two, the farm’s “sweet shop” window is open from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily. The à la carte menu includes brownies, bread pudding, sundaes and milkshakes, along with estate vanilla coffee (hot or iced) and other vanilla-infused beverages. There’s a small assortment of liquor bottles on a counter by the window, but don’t count on spiking your drinks: Those are just to show which spirits you can infuse with vanilla beans, available in the gift shop. Vanilla extract, chutneys, coffees and teas, cornSUMME R 2 0 24

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The first course is a deep fluted cup of a hearty tomato and red pepper bisque made with coconut milk paired with a salad of Jericho and gem lettuce grown on the farm, feta cheese, and pecans roasted with Wai Meli eucalyptus honey from the neighboring farm, dressed with raspberry vanilla sesame seed vinaigrette. I make a mental note to pick up a bag of the pecans in the gift shop after downing the last morsel. For the next course, a small sandwich of chicken breast flavored with vanilla whiskey far outshines the vegetarian option, a small crostini with black Hawaiian salt, vanilla caramelized onions and mango chutney. All is forgiven, though, with the appearance of a triple-tiered serving tray of pastries, all incorporating vanilla. The top tier holds two mini puff pastries, one with cream cheese and red pepper jelly and the other with brie and caramelized onions; the middle has small squares of moist banana bread and liliko‘i (passion fruit) pound cake; and the bottom offers vanilla pecan maple scones and, on my visit, homemade cheesecake topped with a mixed berry compote. “We would usually do brownies, but today Daelyn decided to do something special,” our server explains, referring to Daelyn Rodrigue, our cook for the day. She also had to sub extra pieces of banana bread and pound cake for the vanilla raspberry sorbet that normally concludes the tea, but it still felt special to taste so many wares from the country’s first commercial vanilla farm. Reddekopp, who was working in hotel management when his newly widowed mother asked for help, says he never planned to take over the groundbreaking business. “Spending time away from it and seeing how cool it was, it was a total eye-opener for me, and we couldn’t let it fade away,” he recalls. bread mix, granola, spice rubs and salad dressings (including Reddekopp’s favorite, vanilla Champagne vinaigrette) are also for sale. I recently returned to Hawaiian Vanilla Co. to try its Upcountry Vanilla Tea experience. Held only on Sundays, it starts with a sniff of four Harney & Sons loose teas: black, black with Ceylon cinnamon, green with rosehips and Egyptian blue lotus, and rooibos with cranberry and orange peel. Choose your favorite (mine was the citrusy rooibos), then wait for the farm’s version of it, infused with vanilla essential oil, to steep in individual pots. 24

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TOP LEFT Lunch features a bourbon-vanillamarinated chicken breast on a vanilla sweet bread bun. TOP RIGHT Learn about the arduous task of growing vanilla on one of the farm’s tours. TOP BELOW The highlight of dessert is the vanilla bean ice cream.

Hawaiian Vanilla Co.

Open 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily, with tours and culinary experiences by reservation. Luncheon with farm tour, 12:30 p.m. Monday–Saturday, $89.50 ages 13 and older, $55 ages 4 to 12. Farm tour only, 11 a.m. and 1:15 p.m. daily, $41.50 all ages. Afternoon tea, 2 p.m. Sunday, $60 ages 14 and older. Vanilla tasting with farm tour, 10 a.m. Saturday– Thursday, $75 all ages. 43-2007 Pa‘auilo Mauka Road, Pa‘auilo. (808) 776-1771, hawaiianvanilla.com.

Former San Francisco Chronicle travel editor Jeanne Cooper lives on the Kohala Coast of Hawai‘i Island with her triathlete husband and three rescue pets from Puna.

From Hanalei to Hale‘iwa, Hawai‘i’s oceanside towns offer more than just beautiful beaches.

photo: colin anderson productions pty ltd via getty images

By Grace Maeda & Catherine Toth Fox

Picture summer in Hawai‘i.

We’re pretty sure you imagined a beach. Hawai‘i has some of the best ones in the world, from the glittering sands of Lanikai on O‘ahu to the jet-black sands of Punalu‘u on Hawai‘i Island. And some of these beach locales have more than just sandy shores: You’ll find great restaurants, cute boutiques and oceanfront bars there too, making them the perfect spots to spend your summer vacation.

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Life's a Beach

Hale‘ wa O‘ahu

Eat Here

ITH ITS COLORFUL PLANTATION-STYLE buildings and laid-

back vibe, Hale‘iwa is the quintessential Hawai‘i beach town. Anchoring what’s known as the Seven Mile Miracle of world-class surf breaks on O‘ahu’s North Shore, this charming town has what you’d expect: shave ice stands, beach-y boutiques, art galleries and food trucks selling garlic shrimp plates and fish tacos. But there’s more to Hale‘iwa than its proximity to the beach. Historically, this was an important area for Native Hawaiians, who once grew taro and other crops in the fertile lands here. The opening of Waialua Agricultural Co. in 1898 brought plantation workers—mostly immigrants from such countries as Japan, China and Korea—to the North Shore. The two-story Victorian-style Hale‘iwa Hotel was built a year later; it’s considered O‘ahu’s first hotel. (It closed in 1943 and has since been torn down.) Today, though, the North Shore is a mecca for surfing, its huge winter waves luring athletes and spectators from all over the world. Summer, though, is arguably a better time to visit, when the ocean is calm enough for snorkeling and the crowds are thinner.

The North Shore is known for its shrimp trucks, and the OG Giovanni’s Shrimp Truck recently opened a second location in Hale‘iwa. The shrimp scampi is by far the most popular plate, but the No Refunds hot-and-spicy shrimp plate is so good it hurts. Less than a mile from town, HI Pie Bakery & Café serves one of the best pot pies on the island. (The poi banana bread is a revelation, too.) Get fresh poke bowls next door from Poke For the People. For pūpū or post-beach drinks, hit Uncle Bo’s Pūpū Bar & Grill, where you can nosh on Thai-style steamer clams and taro beignets with handcrafted cocktails. It also serves brunch on the weekends and happy hour daily. While you’re on this side of the island, it’s worth stopping by Ted’s Bakery near Sunset Beach—about 10 miles from Hale‘iwa—for a slice of cream pie. Since the pandemic, this is the only place to get one of the bakery’s famous chocolate-haupia cream pies.

Summer is great for snorkeling on the North Shore, and Shark’s Cove, about 6 miles from Hale‘iwa, is a popular spot for that. There are two distinct sections—the Kapo‘o tide pools and the main cove itself. The tide pools are best for beginners and home to more than 70 native fish species. If mountains are more your thing, hike the ‘Ehukai Pillbox Trail, a short-but-steep trek to the cliffs overlooking the North Shore. Blue Planet Adventure runs guided tours of Anahulu River in Hale‘iwa, with guests using stand-up paddleboards or kayaks. Or just spend the day lounging at Ali‘i Beach, right off Highway 83 in Hale‘iwa.

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photos: mia von steinkirch via getty images, david croxford

Do This

Ka lua O‘ahu

Do This

photos: segawa7 via getty images, david croxford

IT DIDN’T TAKE LONG

for the once-sleepy town of Kailua on O‘ahu’s Windward Side to become a visitor destination, thanks to its long stretches of white-sand beaches. This area, with its cooling breezes and natural ponds, was once farmland for Native Hawaiians, who grew taro, banana and sweet potatoes in a vast network of terraced lo‘i. A lot has changed, including the conversion of ag land to residential subdivisions, which brought grocery stores, restaurants and other shops. From 1950 to 1960, the population of Kailua exploded from 7,700 to more than 25,000. Today, it’s a coveted area code, flanked by the dramatic cliffs of the Ko‘olau Mountains and crescent-shaped Kailua Bay. There are hiking trails, surf spots, restaurants, farmers markets and boutiques. What you won’t find? Hotels.

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Start the morning with a cup of quality coffee from ChadLou’s Coffee Roasters, which roasts its own beans in-house from all over the world, including Hawai‘i. (It also offers hourlong coffee tasting tours every day.) Nearby Over Easy is a popular spot for brunch, with its unique twists on classic dishes, and its grab-and-go bakery with freshly baked breads, quiche, scones, muffins and more. Empty Elle Bagels is one of the only places in Hawai‘i where you can get Montreal-style bagels, made with Hawai‘i honey and topped with locally grown ingredients. Beer lovers will dig Lanikai Brewing Co., which brews all of its beers locally. (Its signature brew is the Pillbox Porter, but its hard seltzers are great for summer.) The pub also has a small menu of wood-fired pizzas and sandwiches. Get shave ice from the place President Barack Obama gets his: Island Snow, just a short walk from Kailua Beach. It boasts all-natural, Hawai‘i-made flavors like Mākaha mango and Kula strawberry.

Even if you don’t love chocolate—is that even possible?—everyone can enjoy the hourlong chocolate tour and tasting experience at Mānoa Chocolate, where you can sample spritzer made from cacao nectar and learn the bean-to-bar process. It recently opened a natural wine bar, with chocolate-and-wine pairings and live music. Stop by BookEnds to grab a beach book for under $5—and maybe find a few penned by local authors. Kailua hosts two great farmers markets—the KailuaTown Farmers Market on Sunday mornings and Kailua Farmers Market on Thursday nights—both brimming with locally grown produce, baked goods and hot foods made with local ingredients. These markets are great for souvenirs and gifts to take back home.

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Eat Here

Wa kīkī O‘ahu

T’S HARD TO MISS WAIKĪKĪ , the world-famous neighborhood on

O‘ahu’s south shore, a favorite of Hawaiian ali‘i (royalty). It’s now the island’s visitor hub, with a mix of historic and modern hotels dotting the sunny, 2-mile coastline in the shadow of Lē‘ahi (aka Diamond Head). Along bustling Kalākaua Avenue, you’ll find world-class shopping, dining and some of Hawai‘i’s oldest hotels, including the Moana Surfrider (built in 1901) and the Royal Hawaiian (built in 1927). What Waikīkī is best known for, though, is its golden-sand beaches and surf breaks where legendary Hawaiian waterman and Olympian Duke Kahanamoku grew up surfing. 28

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

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Surfing in Waikīkī is a must, and there are a bunch of companies like Waikīkī Beach Services that offer lessons for first-timers. (Or catch waves in an outrigger canoe instead!) Families will love the Honolulu Zoo’s Twilight Tours, two-hour guided walks through the 42-acre menagerie, when its animals are a bit more active. Sunset sails happen nightly, some with just cocktails and others offering full dinner service. Don’t miss the free fireworks show every Friday night from the Hilton Hawaiian Village.

photos: mark hatfield via getty images, aaron k. yoshino

While Waikīkī may be a resort area, its array of restaurants and hole-in-the-wall eateries have recently lured foodies. Brunch at the newly updated Hau Tree in the Kaimana Beach Hotel is a must, with its casual, beach-centric menu and stunning views. Or grab a black sesame kouign amann and a cup of 100% Kona coffee at Kona Coffee Purveyors at the International Market Place. (Go early or order online to avoid the long line.) Sushi lovers should book a table at Sushi Sho in the Ritz-Carlton Waikīkī Beach, run by one of Japan’s most acclaimed sushi chefs. Find local and imported seafood on the menu. For dessert, look for Double A Fat Ice Cream, a tiny stand behind the ‘Alohilani Resort Waikīkī Beach, with locally spun, small-batch ice cream in unique flavors like yuzu creamsicle and honey furikake.

Life's a Beach

Kā‘anapal Maui

Ā‘ANAPALI ON MAUI’S WEST SIDE is

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Perched on Kā‘anapali Beach, Whalers Village is home to top-notch restaurants and world-class shopping. On the weekend, plan for brunch at Hula Grill for Island-inspired dishes like banana and macadamia nut pancakes or an omelet with kālua pork and Portuguese sausage. As the sun sets on the Pacific, sip on a mai tai from nearby ‘Ulu Kitchen, a new concept by local chef Peter Merriman, at the Westin Maui Resort and Spa, and enjoy dishes featuring locally sourced ingredients.

Whalers Village is the island’s only oceanfront shopping center; here, you’ll find local shops like Aloha Collection, Keani Hawai‘i and Mahina. The Hawai‘i Wildlife Discovery Center is also located here. The education center features over 30 exhibits on the history of the whaling era and the protection of native marine life. Be sure to return to the beach for sunset. Every evening as the sun goes down, a diver runs along the cliffs of Pu‘u Keka‘a, lighting torches leading up to a thrilling cliff dive.

photos: emily smith, 7michael via getty images, brian cho / 500px via getty images

one the island’s most-visited regions, with one of the world’s best beaches. Stretching 3 miles, Kā‘anapali Beach is graced by unbelievably beautiful water. Here, the crystal-clear ocean makes for some of the best snorkeling on the island—check out the colorful coral reefs surrounding pu‘u keka‘a (also known as Black Rock)—and in the winter, playful humpback whales can be spotted from the beach. Then, after a day swimming with the island’s marine life and playing in the waves, you can rest on the soft sand.

Eat Here

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Life's a Beach

Eat Here

While Pā‘ia is known as a home-base for surfers and artists, it’s also become a dining destination. Café des Amis is a mainstay for breakfast crepes while Flatbread Pizza Co. is a must for its kālua pork pizza topped with pineapple. Tobi’s Poke & Shave Ice serves some of the freshest ‘ahi poke and finest shave ice. And in a small town like Pā‘ia, a new neighbor doesn’t go unnoticed: Wabisabi Soba & Sushi, open for lunch and dinner, is a recent addition to the community’s collection of eateries.

Pā‘ a Maui

NCE A QUIET PLANTATION NEIGHBORHOOD , Pā‘ia is now a

vibrant hub on Maui’s north shore, luring ocean athletes as well as artists from around the world. In the summer, you’ll feel the laid-back vibes the minute you start wandering the sand-dusted streets; be sure to cool off with a bowl of local shave ice. During the winter months, the energy is palpable as large ocean swells hit the island’s north shore and the town buzzes with surfers. And no matter the month, visitors will discover art emporiums, chic clothing boutiques and breezy outdoor eateries.

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

What makes Pā‘ia one of Maui’s most popular beach towns is the ocean playground just a short drive from the town’s center. Located right off Hāna Highway, Ho‘okipa Beach Park draws all kinds of ocean athletes. Here, you can watch the island’s best surfers catching waves in the winter and the colorful sails of windsurfers and kite surfers as their riders race down the coast. The summer is an opportune time to explore the clear waters and reef teeming with life. For those just looking to lay down a towel or relax in a beach chair, Baldwin Beach Park is a favorite for its milelong stretch of white sand and clear waters. There are protected swimming areas on both ends of the beach, ideal for little ones, too.

photos: peter unger via getty images, aaron k. yoshino

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HanaleKaua‘i

photos: doug berry via getty images, matteo colombo via getty images

HE CHARMING TOWN OF HANALEI

on Kaua‘i’s North Shore has inspired movies, music and many dream vacations. And why not? It’s easily one of the most picturesque beach towns in Hawai‘i, with a 2-mile-long white-sand beach—with its iconic pier—backed by lush mountains and waterfalls. No big resorts, no chain restaurants. Just a stretch of locally owned restaurants and shops and miles of pristine beaches. In ancient Hawai‘i, this was a well-populated area, thriving with taro, bananas, breadfruit, sweet potato and coconuts. Today, taro fields are still abundant here; in fact, Hanalei produces two-thirds of all the taro grown in the state, and you can find Kaua‘i’s staple treat, kūlolo, a mixture of taro, coconut and sugar, everywhere.

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Eat Here

Upscale cuisine in Hanalei? Yes—if you can snag a reservation at Bar Acuda, an award-winning tapas bar with a menu brimming with organic, seasonal and local ingredients. Think blackened local fish with tomato and fennel pearl couscous or local honeycomb with goat cheese—both favorites. The wine list and cocktails are excellent, too. The original location of Holey Grail— the shop has since expanded to O‘ahu and Santa Monica, California—is in Hanalei; get fresh taro doughnuts, hand-fried in coconut oil and topped with local ingredients like liliko‘i (passion fruit), chocolate and strawberry guava. About 3 miles north of Hanalei, in nearby Princeville, is Nourish Hanalei, a cute farm stand run by three sisters that sells locally made bagels, açaí bowls and seasonal lemonades. Even if you don’t buy anything, which would be a shame, the panoramic view of Hanalei Valley is worth the trip. For a sunset view, book a table on the lānai of Welina Terrace, one of the restaurants at 1 Hotel Hanalei Bay. The menu here is small but enough for sunset noshing, with sushi rolls, sashimi and fresh oysters

Get a great view of Hanalei Bay from the ‘Ōkolehao Trail, a fairly short uphill trek to a spot overlooking the bay. If you want to see the Nāpali Coast instead, hit the Kalalau Trail from Kē‘ē Beach to Hanakāpī‘ai Falls. It’s a challenging 7-mile trek to the 300-foot waterfall. This day hike is best for experienced hikers. Beach lovers will find lots to do in Hanalei, from lounging at the family-friendly ‘Anini Beach Park to snorkeling at Mākua (aka Tunnels) to taking a surf lesson (we recommend Titus Kinimaka’s Hawaiian School of Surfing) at Hanalei Bay. Or hop on a catamaran for an unforgettable sail to the Nāpali Coast. Some, like Capt. Andy’s Sailing Adventures, run sunset cruises, too.

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Life's a Beach

Po‘ pū Kaua‘i

HERE’S A REASON WHY THE MOST HOTELS AND RESORTS

on Kaua‘i are in Po‘ipū. This sunny coast has it all: beautiful beaches, hiking trails, farmers markets, boutiques, restaurants and amazing sunset views. In ancient Hawai‘i, this area was part of the Hawaiian settlement Kāneiolauma, which dates back to the mid-15th century. The 20-acre site, which is currently being restored, is one of the only remaining historic Hawaiian villages on the south shore. It includes house sites, taro patches, fishponds, heiau (temples), shrines and perhaps the only intact makahiki sporting arena in the state. Today, Po‘ipū remains a vibrant beach town with lots to see and do.

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It’s all about the view at The Beach House, co-owned by local chef Peter Merriman, who’s known for farm-to-table cuisine. Its location near Lāwa‘i Beach has stellar ocean and sunset views from its open-air dining room. The menu features local fish, shareable pūpū (appetizers) and an extensive selection of wines, beers and cocktails. Red Salt at the Ko‘a Kea Resort offers breakfast with items like lemon-pineapple soufflé pancakes and lobster Benedict; the sushi bar serves super-fresh sashimi, nigiri and hand rolls. For something smaller, get an açaí or pitaya bowl at Little Fish Coffee Kaua‘i or a fresh ‘ahi poke bowl from the family-run Kaua‘i Poke Co. (The latter even sells cocktails and seasonal IPAs on tap.)

You could spend the entire day at Po‘ipū Beach—swimming, snorkeling, surfing, lounging. There’s even a playground and grassy field for the kiddos to run around. Or hit the Māhā‘ulepū Heritage Trail, a 2-mile out-andback hike from Keoneloa Bay, commonly referred to as Shipwreck Beach, to Makauwahi Cave, the largest limestone cave in Hawai‘i. A few miles west are Allerton and McBryde gardens, part of the National Tropical Botanical Garden network. See exotic flowers, fig trees and lots of indigenous Hawaiian plants. Guided tours are recommended but not necessary. (The 259-acre McBryde Garden is home to the world’s largest off-site collection of native Hawaiian species.)

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

photos: pawel gaul via getty images, david croxford

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Wellness Awaits After the Covid-19 pandemic, more travelers are seeking out wellness experiences in the Islands.

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Wellness Awaits

pain in my neck that, in recent weeks, had radiated down to my lower back. Nothing— not massage or yoga or stretches I learned through hours of YouTube videos—offered much relief. I was at the point where I would try anything, including spending an hour in a hyperbaric chamber. On my vacation. The oxygen treatment is one of the more unique wellness-focused offerings at 1 Hotel Hanalei Bay on Kaua‘i, which opened in 2023 on cliffs overlooking the iconic bay. Hyperbaric oxygen therapy involves breathing in pure oxygen in a pressurized environment; it’s used to treat decompression sickness, serious infections, wounds that won’t heal, even cyanide and carbon monoxide poisoning. But spas— like the one at 1 Hotel Hanalei Bay—have started offering the therapy to guests as a way to alleviate inflammation, promote healing, strengthen the immune system, rejuvenate skin, enhance blood circulation and increase collagen production, explains Nicholas Gold, vice president of operations and the hotel’s general manager. I just wanted to be able to sleep without using four pillows to prop myself up in bed. The hotel’s spa—it’s a Bamford Wellness Spa—offers several specialty services focused on holistic wellness, from an infrared sauna that stimulates collagen and elastin production to a 20-minute session

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

There’s a wellness aspect in everything at 1 Hotel Hanalei Bay on Kaua‘i, from spa treatments to food offerings.

in a Somadome, the world’s first technology-enabled private meditation pod. You can book acupuncture, chiropractic treatments, crystal healing, color therapy and vibrational acoustic therapy here, too. Or opt to spend an hour in a unique zerogravity, sensory-deprivation tank, which promotes relaxation and improved sleep. “We have seen a great interest in travelers seeking wellnessrelated activities during their vacation,” Gold says. “Couples and families alike are looking for ways to recharge from their busy lives.” Wellness tourism is on the rise, and revenue in this growing hospitality sector expected to hit $1.3 trillion by 2025, according to the Global Wellness Institute. And it goes beyond green juice bars and yoga on the beach. These days travelers are seeking out holistic ways to improve their health and wellbeing. Hotels around the world are offering an array of diverse experiences, from grief-related programs to menopause retreats. The adults-only Hotel Wailea Hotel on Maui offers 90-minute guided tantra classes to help couples improve intimacy, and the ‘Alohilani Resort Waikīkī Beach boasts a 700-square-foot lounge where guests can take in vitamin IV drips that can boost energy, improve fitness performance and

photos: courtesy of 1 hotel hanalei bay

F OR MONTHS I’D TOLERATED a

TOP LEFT: The adults-only pool offers a quiet space for guests 21 and older. BOTTOM LEFT: The hotel’s spa offers unique wellness experiences, including hyperbaric oxygen therapy and a Somadome meditation pod. RIGHT: The main pool overlooks the tucked-away Pu‘u Poa Beach.

help with hangover recovery. The Four Seasons Resort Hualālai on Hawai‘i Island has cupping therapy and reiki, a Japanese energy healing technique that promotes relaxation and reduces stress and anxiety through the gentle touch of practitioners. And the Grand Wailea, a Waldorf Astoria Resort, offers astrology readings. “I think it’s one of the many aftershocks of Covid,” says Annie Daly, a New York-based freelance writer and author of “Destination Wellness: Global Secrets for Better Living Wherever You Are,” which includes a chapter on Hawai‘i. “Many people finally learned the importance of slowing down and taking care of themselves during the pandemic, and now they want to continue to focus on this in their everyday lives. As a result, do-it-all vacations that once seemed appealing—downing tequila shots on the beach or overbooking your trip to be sure you see everything—are starting to lose their shine.” When Sensei Lāna‘i, a Four Seasons Resort opened in 2019, it was fully reimagined as an adults-only wellbeing retreat—the first of its kind in the Islands. Interest in the hotel’s unique offerings—restorative aerial yoga, forest bathing, gong sound baths, classes on compassion and mindfulness—has been on the rise since emerging from

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Wellness Awaits

Sensei Lāna‘i, a Four Seasons Resort specializes in customized wellness experiences, including spa treatments like this traditional Thai floor massage.

Ellison founded Sensei with Dr. David Agus, a physician and New York Times bestselling author; its purpose is to help people live longer, healthier lives with minimal impact on the environment. But this goes beyond building a well-stocked hotel gym and gorgeous spa. The hotel will arrange a personalized “journey” for you, which starts with a wellness consultation before you arrive and can include one-on-one sessions with a trained guide and an itinerary of classes, lectures and other activities. Even your dining options can be tailored to your specific health goals. One of the more popular wellness offerings at Sensei Lāna‘i is a thermal body mapping and massage. Using technology developed exclusively for the hotel, a technician creates a visual map of your body, revealing asymmetries, muscle tightness and areas of pain. From this in-

photos: courtesy of sensei lāna‘i

the pandemic, says Sensei Lāna‘i general manager David Emig. “Coming out of a global pandemic has resulted in an uptick in guests with a focused intention around a mental reset or learning more mindfulness tactics to combat stress and anxiety, as well as taking better care of themselves, whether that is due to a milestone moment like retirement or turning 50 or a breakthrough like quitting smoking or just wanting to feel less stressed and more present with family,” he says. Everything about Sensei Lāna‘i is focused on wellness and longevity, from the five-star hotel’s lush, tranquil 24 acres to a wellness-focused menu at its signature restaurant, Sensei by Nobu. There isn’t much to distract you from your wellness journey, either. The main pool looks more like a secret oasis within a dreamy botanical garden and the nearest beach is a 20-minute drive away. Oracle co-founder and billionaire entrepreneur Larry Ellison bought 98% of the 89,000-acre island of Lāna‘i in 2012, including two Four Seasons-operated hotels. The Four Seasons Resort Lāna‘i is the island’s classic beachfront resort, with a kid-friendly pool overlooking Hulopo‘e Bay and a variety of accommodations for every kind of traveler. The 96-room Sensei Lāna‘i, however, is more secluded and peaceful, a place where you can focus on your health and quieting your mind, even on vacation.

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

LEFT: The grounds are in Kō‘ele, the traditionally spiritual uplands of Lāna‘i. TOP RIGHT: A highlight are the spa’s 10 hale (standalone huts) with Japanese ofuro soaking tubs, outdoor onsen pools, an infrared sauna and oversize massage beds. BOTTOM: Guests today are seeking out more customized wellness experiences.

formation, the massage therapist can create a customized massage that targets these specific areas of tension. Another unique treatment is aquatic bodywork, where you float in a warm, private outdoor pool as a therapist guides you through a series of stretches and massages. And recently, the hotel launched a Sleep 1:1 session, where, with the help of a guide, you learn strategies to get a more restorative sleep, something many of us don’t get in our too-busy lives. Even on vacation. “The pandemic helped many people see, often for the first time, the value in slowing down,” Daly says. “And it also helped them realize the importance of connection: connection with others, connection with the earth, and connection with themselves. Now that the seed for these values has been planted, it's hard to go back to the ‘go-gogo-ness’ of the way things were. People want to operate differently now, and that includes the way they travel.” Wellness travel has evolved and expanded beyond pampering facials and deep-tissue massages, which do little to improve mental and physical health. Now travelers can opt for things like guided hiking adventures and cultural encounters that provide authentic connections to the places and people they visit.

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The recently revamped Westin Maui Resort & Spa in Kā‘anapali has a variety of programs aimed at active travelers, from a 3-mile morning run led by the hotel’s run concierge to surf lessons at nearby Kā‘anapali Beach. You can take pickleball lessons or ride a horse on the beach at Turtle Bay Resort on O‘ahu’s North Shore, or learn about traditional Hawaiian voyaging techniques aboard a sailing canoe in Kahuwai Bay at Kona Village, a Rosewood Resort on Hawai‘i Island. “Whenever I tell people I write about wellness travel, they always assume I live at the spa on vacation … but that's actually not how I see wellness travel at all,” says Daly, who most recently co-authored “Island Wisdom: Hawaiian Traditions and Practices for a Meaningful Life.” “I truly believe wellness travel goes so much deeper than the spa. It's about the people you meet and the cultural lessons you pick up along the way, ones you can then weave into your life back at home no matter where you live.” On one of her many visits to the Islands, Daly learned about the Hawaiian concept of ho‘omanawanui, which is about trusting that the right thing will happen to you at the right time. Ancient Hawaiians waited for the perfect time to catch their fish, she explains, because they knew they’d get the best quality if they waited until the time was right. “I'm currently going through IVF (in vitro fertilization), and I am not kidding when I say that idea has helped me through my fertility struggles in a big way,” Daly says. “I keep reminding myself that even though things are taking longer, the right thing will happen for me at the right time— and will leave me with a better proverbial fish as a result. To me, that’s what wellness travel is all about: taking the time to connect with locals and learn cultural lessons that can help you through your own life, long after the trip itself is over. Travel really is the best teacher.” My time in the hyperbaric chamber at 1 Hotel Hanalei Bay was my first experience with any kind of oxygen treatment. The chamber resembles what I imagine a space travel simulator would look like: a fully enclosed but spacious capsule that can comfortably fit up to four people. I relaxed into one of the seats, put up my feet and draped a fleece blanket over my legs. (It

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

The Westin Maui Resort and Spa, Kā‘anapali offers a variety of spa treatments that focus on wellness.

can get cold in there.) The technician, who used this treatment to recover from training for a 16-mile swim race, fit the nasal cannula in my nose and turned on the oxygen. To be honest, I didn’t notice anything, not even the pure oxygen that was coursing through my body—though the pressure did make me feel like I was sitting on an airplane. I sat back, read my Kindle and relaxed. After about 50 minutes, the technician returned to help me out of the chamber. “How was it?” she asked excitedly. I felt the same. Maybe more refreshed and focused, but generally the same. Until, that is, I turned to grab my Kindle and realized my neck pain—something that prevented me from getting restorative sleep for months, something that made even driving uncomfortable— was gone. Totally gone. That experience made the rest of my stay on Kaua‘i—with all the hiking, surfing and exploring that came with it—that much better.

photos: courtesy of the westin maui resort & spa in kā‘anapali

Wellness Awaits

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Destination Weddings in Hawai‘i Hawai‘i is the perfect place for a wedding: gorgeous scenery, luxurious accommodations, cultural richness—and the honeymoon destination is included. But not sure where to start?

illustrations: elena medvedeva via getty images

Planning a destination wedding—especially in Hawai‘i, across miles of ocean—can be tricky, maybe a little daunting. You may not be able to visit sites or meet vendors in person. But there are lots of reasons why a wedding in the Islands is worth the extra effort.

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Venues

‘Alohilani Resort Waikīkī Beach, O‘ahu Experience the exquisite allure of Waikīkī at ‘Alohilani Resort for your special day. Whether you’re planning an intimate gathering or a large celebration, our warm and friendly team of professionals will help you design your dream day at our beautiful wedding venue in the heart of O‘ahu’s Waikīkī Beach. Our Hawai‘i wedding packages anticipate your needs, including photography, flowers, food & beverage and more. Our range of wedding venues are flexible with indoor and outdoor locations, and can host a reception for just an intimate few to hundreds of guests. alohilaniresort.com/ meetings-events/weddings/

Hotel Wailea, Relais & Châteaux, Maui Whether you’re dreaming of an intimate ceremony or a grand affair, start your forever journey in pure island bliss at Hotel Wailea, Relais & Châteaux. Our luxurious amenities, award-winning cuisine, and attentive service match the breathtaking views, creating an unforgettable experience. With a variety of venues, each space is unique in its offering and size, providing diverse options for the ceremony and everything leading up to the big day. Our venues accommodate 2 to 150 guests with food & beverage minimums and no site fees. Contact Kimi Hoang khoang@hotelwailea.com. hotelwailea.com/weddings

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

Hawai‘i’s WorldClass Resorts and Venues Hawai‘i is home to a variety of luxe resorts and wedding venues that cater to every need. These venues offer comprehensive wedding packages, experienced planners and top-notch services, ensuring a stress-free planning process and a seamless wedding day. The Islands also provide ample activities for guests, from snorkeling and surfing to exploring waterfalls and enjoying lū‘au, turning the wedding into a vacation for everyone involved. There are so many options available, from tranquil garden settings to sun-kissed beaches to charming historic churches. Hawai‘i truly has it all. If you seek convenience and luxury, hotel weddings are the perfect choice. Hotel Wailea on Maui and ‘Alohilani Resort Waikīkī Beach offer comprehensive wedding packages, expert planners and world-class amenities. These hotels provide stunning ocean views, beautiful ballrooms and exceptional service, ensuring a seamless and elegant wedding experience. Other hotels, like Wailea Beach Resort on Maui and the Westin Hāpuna Beach Resort on Hawai‘i Island, offer a variety of unique event spaces. Still others, like Waimea Plantation Cottages on Kaua‘i, are spacious enough to host the entire wedding party and guests—and it will still feel like you’re on vacation. For couples desiring a traditional ceremony, Hawai‘i’s historic churches are captivating venues. The St. Benedict’s Painted Church on Hawai‘i Island, with its vibrant murals, or the quaint Wai‘oli Hui‘ia Church in Kaua‘i offer a blend of cultural heritage and sacred ambience. These churches provide a serene and spiritual atmosphere, perfect for a meaningful and intimate ceremony. There are other unique venues, too: the 13.5-acre Ali‘i Kula Lavender Farm on Maui; Kahuā Ranch, a working cattle ranch on Hawai‘i Island; a 20-acre Tuscan-inspired villa at Calasa Olive Farm on Maui; and the Waikīkī Aquarium on O‘ahu.

For a love as deep as the ocean, say “I do” at the water’s edge. From intimate gatherings to grand celebrations, our versatile oceanfront settings offer infinite possibilities to create the wedding of your dreams.

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Destination Weddings in Hawai‘i

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Venues Wailea Beach Resort, Maui Located on 22 lush oceanfront acres, Wailea Beach Resort provides a stunning backdrop to commemorate your special day. From intimate gatherings to large-scale celebrations, our versatile indoor and outdoor venues offer infinite possibilities to create the wedding of your dreams. A one-of-a-kind love deserves a one-of-a-kind celebration. Our wedding and events team are dedicated to crafting unforgettable moments that bring your vision to life. Whether you’re honoring a new union, renewing your vows, or celebrating anniversary milestones, choose from our curated packages or plan a custom event, tailored to your exact preferences. Contact us at (808) 879-1922 or email weddings@ waileabeachresort.com to start planning today. waileabeachresort.com

Westin Hapuna Beach Resort, Hawai‘i Island Discover the award-winning Westin Hapuna Beach Resort, a luxurious oceanfront retreat on Hawai‘i's Kohala Coast. Voted the world’s No. 1 beach, it boasts stunning views, upscale amenities and a serene ambience, perfect for relaxation and romance. Take advantage of our exclusive Dream Day Wedding special: 10% off wedding packages, 50% off venue rental for bookings made by Aug. 31, 2024. Valid for weddings until Dec. 18, 2024. Contact our Romance Experts at (808) 880-1111 to book your unforgettable celebration.

Hawai‘i’s Natural Beauty

Waimea Plantation Cottages, Kaua‘i Voted #1 Wedding Venue on Kaua‘i. Say "I do" under the magnificent banyan tree on the oceanfront lawn at the romantic Manager’s Cottage. Imagine exchanging vows with the soothing sounds of the waves in the background surrounded by your family and friends. Then dine and dance at your reception under the stars! Already have your wedding venue? Consider a honeymoon in your love nest cottage by the ocean. Plenty of privacy for just the two of you. Let us help you start planning your dream wedding or romantic honeymoon today! Call (808) 338-1625. waimeaplantationcottages.com 42

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

Hello, this is Hawai‘i. From pristine beaches and clear, turquoise waters to lush tropical gardens and dramatic volcanic landscapes, every corner of every island provides a breathtaking backdrop for wedding ceremonies and pictures. For those who love the serenity of nature, a garden wedding might be ideal. Venues like the Hawai‘i Tropical Botanical Garden on Hawai‘i Island or the lush Allerton Garden in Kaua‘i provide a vibrant and intimate setting. Surrounded by exotic flowers and tropical foliage, these gardens offer a peaceful and enchanting backdrop for exchanging vows. Hawai‘i is the perfect spot for a beach wedding, too. Imagine saying “I do” on the soft sands of Lanikai Beach on O‘ahu, with the turquoise waters and Mokulua Islands in the background. For a more secluded option, Mākena Cove on Maui—also referred to as Secret Beach—provides dramatic rock formations and stunning sunsets. These venues offer a romantic and picturesque setting for a small and intimate wedding that captures the essence of Hawai‘i’s natural beauty.

Choose your perfect

Hawaii Wedding planner says the key to have the best wedding day is for the client to make the choice to enjoy it.

When planning your wedding or vow renewal, it can feel like you are constantly bombarded with CHOICES. What venue; grassy ocean-front view or toes-in-thesand? What caterer? What color palate? Cake or dessert bar? An endless amount of questions can be overwhelming. Planning your stress-free and perfect day does not have to be out of reach. Flawless Hawaii Weddings is the best CHOICE when searching for an experienced and dedicated wedding planner.

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Wedding Coordination

Flawless Hawai‘i Weddings When planning your wedding or vow renewal, it can feel like you are constantly bombarded with choices. What venue—grassy oceanfront view or toes-in-the sand? What caterer? What color palate? Cake or dessert bar? An endless array of questions can seem overwhelming. There’s an easy answer to planning your stress-free and perfect day. Flawless Hawai‘i Weddings is your best choice when searching for an experienced and dedicated wedding planner to make your planning a breeze. flawlesshawaiiweddings.com

Simple Kona Beach Weddings, Hawai‘i Island Personal, Love-Filled, Fun and Stress-Free Beach Wedding and Vow Renewal Experiences. At Simple Kona Beach Weddings on Hawai’i Island, we focus on giving couples a beautiful, fun, stress-free, personal, and full-service beach wedding experience–one that exudes love, joy, elegance, and meaning-all infused with that feeling of Aloha. Our beautiful Hawaiian-style ceremony is at the center of what we do, and we'll help you take care of all of the trimmings around it. We also believe that QUALITY matters, no matter how close your wedding date or how simple you want it. And, as our name suggests, we believe that your wedding here in Hawaii should be simple... for YOU. This means we'll help you take care of all of the details surrounding your ceremony for you. From totally custom to curated to very lastminute, we've got you covered. SimpleKonaBeachWeddings.com

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Naupaka Events & Weddings, All Islands Naupaka Events & Weddings understands the time and effort involved when planning a special event. It is important you are confident that a trusted company will be there to support you and see your special event all the way through from start to finish. Consider using Naupaka Events & Weddings. Servicing all Hawaiian Islands. Our team of professionals look forward to connecting with you. We are happy to provide a complimentary consultation call. Call (808) 430-4362 or email admin@naupakaevents.com. naupakaevents.com

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Destination Weddings in Hawai‘i

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Party Rentals Kea and Loa Chic Party Rental, Hawai‘i Island Welcome to Kea and Loa Chic Party Rental, where every event becomes a masterpiece! Specializing in exquisite event rentals, we pride ourselves on transforming your vision into reality. With a keen eye for detail and a commitment to excellence, we offer a curated selection of high-quality furniture, décor and accessories to elevate any occasion. Whether you're planning a lavish wedding, a sophisticated corporate gathering or a whimsical birthday bash, Kea and Loa Chic Party Rental has everything you need to create an unforgettable experience. From elegant table settings to stylish lounge areas, our extensive inventory caters to a wide range of styles and themes. Our dedicated team of event professionals is here to assist you every step of the way, ensuring seamless coordination and impeccable service from start to finish. Let us turn your dreams into a stunning reality—contact Kea and Loa Chic Party Rental today and let the celebration begin! keaandloa.com

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MW Restaurant takes the vibrance of Hawaii’s finest produce, fish, and meats and prepares them with polished culinary techniques to deliver an unparalleled dining experience embracing the Hawaii Regional Cuisine movement.

Offering exceptional catering services both in-house and off-site SERVING ALL OF OAHU mwrestaurant.com info@mwrestaurant.com (808) 955-6505 888 Kapiolani Boulevard, Commercial Unit #201 Honolulu, Hawaii 96813

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Destination Weddings in Hawai‘i

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Food & Drink MW Restaurant, O‘ahu Fulfill your dream of a fairy tale wedding with an exquisite reception catered by MW Restaurant. Chefs Wade and Michelle take the vibrance of Hawai‘i’s finest ingredients and transform familiar flavors into elevated compositions. Customized menus are crafted for receptions of any size, from intimate gatherings of 20 loved ones to glorious celebrations with up to 500 guests. MW Restaurant can cater the entire reception or simply assist with a few of the highlights, such as producing an indulgent dessert buffet or designing an elegant wedding cake fit for the bride. Whether your special day is at an offsite venue or in our 100-person capacity Bentley Room, our experienced culinary team and anticipatory service staff will deliver an unforgettable experience. Let the artistry of MW Restaurant help consummate your love and forge memories that will last a lifetime. mwrestaurant.com

sparkling mead, new way to celebrate hawaii || destination || wedding discover the “origin of honeymoon”

m anoahone y.com/weddings @m anoahone ymead

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Destination Weddings in Hawai‘i

Mānoa Honey & Mead, O‘ahu

Once believed to be an aphrodisiac, newlyweds would spend one full moon cycle after their union indulging in mead, a wine made from the fermentation of honey. Couples would drink and rejoice, attributing their fertility and good fortunes to this sweet elixir. This period became known as the “honeymoon.” Today, Mānoa Honey & Mead celebrates this old tradition by capturing that bliss with their modern sparkling mead, a bright and effervescent reminder of the pleasure we know as Love. At Mānoa Honey & Mead, they capture the essence of paradise in every bottle. Using their own locally harvested honey and fruits sourced from Hawai’i farmers, their meads are bubbly, refreshing, and full of tropical aromas—a delightful addition to your celebration. A glass of this effervescent mead makes the perfect toast to your everlasting love. manoahoney.com/weddings

Intimate, Love-Filled, Fun, and Stress-Free Destination Beach Wedding and Vow Renewal Experiences All infused with that feeling of aloha. From fully custom to very last-minute, we’re here to make things simple - for you.

www.SimpleKonaBeachWeddings.com @simplekonabeachweddings www.facebook.com/simplekonabeachweddings

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Destination Weddings in Hawai‘i

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Flowers

Hawai‘i’s Rich Cultural Heritage

Shoots Blooms, All Islands

photo: courtesy of wild sound photography

At Shoots Blooms we specialize in creating stunning floral designs that capture the essence of Hawai‘i beauty. From vibrant lei and bridal bouquets to modern ceremony florals and custom arrangements, we have you covered! We’re dedicated to making your wedding day absolutely perfect, working with you on every detail to reflect your unique style. We transform your floral dreams into reality with meticulous attention to detail, ensuring every flower contributes to your perfect day. Shoots Blooms services all of the Hawaiian Islands! Let’s connect and start chatting about the beauty of flowers! shootsblooms.com

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Thanks to the rich cultural and history of the Islands, there are many unique elements you can include in your wedding that celebrate and honor Hawai‘i’s special heritage. It’s not uncommon to exchange lei at weddings; the lei represents a gesture of aloha. Brides often wear a multistring fragrant pīkake (jasmine) lei, and grooms don the equally aromatic maile. The tradition of pili ā nai kealoha (love that binds) is where the officiant ties the hands of the couple with a maile lei while chanting an ‘oli and uniting the couple forever in love. These customs enhance the ceremony while honoring the Hawaiian culture and making the event that much more memorable and special.

Capture the Floral Essence of Hawai‘i on your Wedding Day Transform your wedding day with exquisite florals that set the perfect tone and add unparalleled beauty to your celebration. We believe that the right flowers can create a cherished memory, capturing the essence of your love and joy on this special day.

Experience Modern Floral Designs with a Fresh Perspective!

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50 HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E shootsblooms@gmail.com (808) 895-6534

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Your Tropical Playground Awaits Waikiki Malia offers more than just a place to stay; it is a home away from home, where every guest is welcomed as a cherished friend and member of our extended family. From our friendly staff who are always ready to assist you, to the thoughtfully designed spaces, our goal is to create an atmosphere of warmth, comfort, and authentic connection. And whether you're here to explore the stunning beaches and trails or indulge in delicious local cuisine, we know your stay will be memorable. Experience the true essence of hospitality at Waikiki Malia, where the spirit of aloha awaits you.

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Waikiki Malia is locally owned and operated with Aloha 2211 Kuhio Avenue, Honolulu, HI 96815 USA Phone: 808-923-7621 I Fax: 808-921-4804 www.waikikimalia.com @waikikimalia

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KAU KAU

An Ode to the Mango We go bananas for mangoes here in Hawai‘i. Here are five ways we love to eat this sweet and succulent fruit. BY MARIA KANAI

HETHER YOU ENJOY MANGOES fresh, blend-

ed, pickled or juiced, these succulent fruits are one of the most beloved in Hawai‘i. Introduced to the Islands in the early 19th century, many popular varieties of mangoes can be found in local stores and farmers markets and maybe even hanging from your own backyard tree. The first mango plants arrived in Hawai‘i around 1824 from India and the Philippines. Thanks to Hawai‘i’s tropical climate, abundant sunshine and fertile volcanic soil, about 500 mango varieties thrive here. Many locals grew up with a mango tree in their backyard, sharing the fruits with their neighbors. It’s such a popular fruit that it’s the star of the show at many local restaurants when matched with the likes of cheesecake, ice cream, pickles and sauces. Hawai‘i chefs like Michelle Karr-Uekoa of MW Restaurant incorporate mangoes into their menu when it’s in season, adding a fresh take on familiar dishes and desserts. “People ask me which variety of mango is my favorite, and I tell them, I can’t choose—they’re like children, you can’t have a favorite,” laughs Karr-Ueoka. She loves the Haden for its beautiful texture, the White Pirie for being aromatic, and the Gouveia for its tangy and creamy flavor. “I love cooking with mango because they are so sweet and have so much character. What’s nice also is that every mango is different,” she says. “When it’s mango season, you can tell because our restaurant will use it for so many different dishes like salads and shave ice.”

Mango Mille Cake, Mango Mango This delicate cake is made with layers of crêpe, filled with sweet mango-flavored crème and topped with freshly cut mango and a mango syrup purée. Any mango used in the cake is fresh—not frozen—and everything is made in-house. A slice is $10.99 and if you want the whole 16-inch round cake, it’s $118.74. 52

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photo: aaron k. yoshino

Here are five of our favorite sweet and savory ways to eat mangoes in Hawai‘i restaurants this summer.

KAU KAU

Mango Lassi, Kamana Kitchen A traditional creamy Indian drink that can cool you down especially if you’re eating spicy curry dishes, the bright yellow mango lassi ($6.45) at Kamana Kitchen in Downtown Honolulu is made with mangoes, yogurt, milk, sugar and a splash of heavy whipping cream.

Mākaha Mango Shave Ice, MW Restaurant At MW Restaurant in Honolulu, local mango takes the spotlight in the Mākaha Mango Shave Ice ($14). This refreshing cool treat uses kaffir lemongrass panna cotta, haupia tapioca, mango sorbet and freshly shaved mango ice.

Mango Pudding, Patisserie La Palme D’Or

photos: courtesy of mw restaurant, aaron k. yoshino

The mango pudding ($7) at this Japanese- and French-influenced patisserie is light and creamy, using a milk-based pudding and a coconut blancmange. We love the hints of malibu, homemade mango compote and diced mango.

Mango Salad, Rangoon Burmese Kitchen The mango salad ($16) is a gorgeous medley of flavors and textures—it’s no wonder, because there are so many layers to this dish from the popular Downtown Honolulu restaurant. It’s made with fresh ripe mango, cabbage, red onion, red bell pepper, cashews, peanuts, sesame seeds, raisins, fried onions, garlic oil, fish sauce, mint, cucumber, tomato and coriander. SUMME R 2 024

Growing Food and Community

Spanning 468 acres on O‘ahu’s North Shore, Kuilima Farm is doing its part to promote food security in Hawai‘i. B Y C AT H E R I N E T O T H F O X

HE SERVER AT ALAIA PLACES A BOWL in front of

me full of tender baby arugula topped with red and golden beets, slices of watermelon radishes and thinly sliced hearts of palm. Everything except the hearts of palm was grown at a nearby farm. That may not sound too unusual, especially in Hawai‘i where restaurants are trying to source as many ingredients 54

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ABOVE Owned by Turtle Bay Resort on O‘ahu, Kuilima Farm is about a mile from the North Shore hotel.

locally as possible. But this restaurant is at Turtle Bay Resort on O‘ahu’s North Shore. And the farm where these ingredients are from is also owned by the hotel. In 2016 Turtle Bay Resort committed to preserving a large parcel of land mauka (toward the mountain) along Kamehameha Highway for farming. That means the 468 acres the resort owned, which was already being farmed by small growers, would remain zoned for agriculture in perpetuity. The land—along with another 628 acres along the coastline—is now under a conservation easement. It can’t be altered and housing can’t be built on it, even if the resort sells it. The area is now Kuilima Farm. Owned by the hotel and managed by Honolulu-based natural resource conservation company Pono Pacific, the farm grows veggies, herbs and edible flowers specifically for the hotel’s restaurants, of which Alaia is one. About 25 acres are in active production, with crops like ‘ulu (breadfruit), leafy greens, carrots, beets and radishes. Another 11 private farmers—the ones who had been farming here prior to 2016—still operate, supplying the hotel with produce, too. Currently, the farm distributes 2,000 pounds of produce a week, with 800 pounds going directly to Turtle Bay Resort. “About 90% of our food is imported, and that’s a big hurdle,” says Ramsey Brown, vice president of diversified agriculture at Pono Pacific. “We saw that get rattled during the pandemic, so there’s a lot of momentum in Hawai‘i to bringing that number down.” But producing food—and contributing to the state’s goal of food security—is a part of what Kuilima Farm does. It hosts community events—a fall festival with a pumpkin patch and a spring event where visitors can pick their own veggies—and has 34 garden plots for North Shore residents who want to grow their own food. It recently launched 45-minute farm tours, where visitors can walk through the diversified crops and native plants and learn about the area’s rich agricultural history and the hotel’s commitment to sustainability. “For us, it was important to have

photos: aaron k. yoshino

MĀLAMA

TOP LEFT

MĀLAMA

The farm boasts a state-of-the-art hydroponics greenhouse, where it grows a variety of leafy greens for the resort. BOTTOM LEFT Recently, the farm starting selling honey from its 12 apiaries. RIGHT Find fresh, seasonal produce, like mangoes, avocados and bananas, at the farm’s roadside stand.

three pillars: actual food production, education and experiences,” Brown says. “We want to provide opportunities for the community to come onto the farm, to get their hands back in the land. … For us, it’s more than just the PR. It’s really about the feeling people have when they come to the farm, for the kids to pull carrots out of the ground. It’s so simple, but these are the experiences they talk about later.” We meet our tour guide at the stands alongside Kamehameha Highway, about a mile from the hotel. Some of these farm stands have been here for generations, selling locally grown sweet corn, apple bananas, papaya and coconuts. Our first stop on the walking tour is a state-of-the-art hydroponics greenhouse, where the farm grows a variety of leafy greens for the resort. (Some are bagged and sold in the farm stand, too.) There are rows and rows of beautiful red and green heads of Salanova butter lettuces, sprouting from grow channels that look like rain gutters. This soil-less growing method requires less space and water than traditional inground farming, and it produces consistent harvests with less damage from pests. Just outside the greenhouse are rows of edible flowers— nasturtiums, lavender, butterfly pea, marigolds—that the hotel uses as garnishes and the spa uses for its teas. Next, we walk through a circular garden with all sorts of specialty crops and herbs—requests from the hotel’s culinary team—and native plants, including dryland kalo (taro),

māmaki, ‘ilima and noni. There are papaya trees, liliko‘i (passion fruit) vines and a grove of ice cream bananas. Other parts of the farm are not on the tour, including its 10 acres of carrots, beets, radishes and leafy greens beyond a grove of ‘ulu trees, and its apiary with 12 hives. The farm started selling its second harvest of honey earlier this year. The farm plans to grow more ‘ulu trees and double its number of hives. It also aims to look at ways to grow more sweet corn and tomatoes—both high-demand crops—and to create an area for lā‘au lapa‘au, or Native Hawaiian medicinal plants. “What we’re doing,” Brown says, “is pretty unique.”

Farm tours run at 9 and 10:30 a.m. every Wednesday, Thursday and Friday. Cost is $45 adult ($35 for kama‘āina and military), $35 children 12 and under ($25 for kama‘āina and military kids). Meet at the farm stand at 57-146 Kamehameha Highway, Kahuku. (808) 628-7400, (808) 753-7861, kuilimafarm.com. SUMME R 2 0 24

ONE LAST LOOK

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

One Last Look P H OTO BY A A R O N K . YO S H I N O

THIS PIER ON O‘AHU’S WINDWARD SIDE is a popular

spot for photos. But many don’t realize it’s a test facility run by the University of Hawai‘i. Makai Research Pier, located in Waimānalo near Makapu‘u Point, has been a research facility for decades. Its location—clean, sheltered water with typically calm conditions—makes it an ideal spot to test underwater equipment and launch submersibles.

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LIKE A LOCAL

For the Love of POG

Enjoy this local flavor made in Hawai‘i and beyond from equal parts passion fruit, orange and guava juice. BY SARAH BURCHARD

F THE MAI TAI IS Hawai‘i’s

Remember playing with pogs in the 1990s and collecting all those branded cardboard discs? The game is a riff on the Japanese game Menko; an elementary school teacher on O‘ahu taught her students to play it using classic POG bottle caps, turning POG into a household name.

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

photo: gary saito

official cocktail, then POG is its official juice. Unlike Green River or Melona—flavors revered in Hawai‘i but not from Hawai‘i— POG was created on Maui at Haleākala Dairy (now Meadow Gold) in 1971. If you grew up here in the ’70s and ’80s you probably lived on the stuff. In 2001, Hawaiian Sun introduced its version: Pass-O-Guava. Both are sold in grocery stores statewide. POG is an acronym for passion fruit (or liliko‘i), orange and guava, all fruits grown in Hawai‘i. The drink is a perfect combination of the three. Today, you can find POG in everything from mimosas to shave ice. Monkeypod Kitchen, famous for its mai tai, makes a nonalcoholic version using POG instead of rum. Asato Family Shop on O‘ahu makes a sorbet fusing POG and condensed milk. Farm Link Hawai‘i, an online store that connects farmers with customers, carries four POG products: POG Pono Pie by Maui Breadfruit Co., POG hard seltzer by Maui Brewing Co., POG chocolate by Onomea Chocolate and POG culinary syrup by Slow Island. POG has caught on with the rest of the country, too. Bloggers incorporate it into cake and cocktail recipes. Even Disney has adopted POG. But no worries if it hasn’t come to your town yet—Meadow Gold and Hawaiian Sun sell their versions online, and Hawaiian Airlines may serve you a cup next time you visit the Islands.

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