Hawaii Magazine Fall 2023 by aio Hawaiʻi

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MEET FOUR EXTRAORDINARY LOCAL MAKER S AND DISCOVER WHAT IT MEANS TO BE MADE-IN-HAWAI‘I.

PAG E 33

Fashion. Dining. Culture.

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FALL 2 02 3 IS S UE • VOLUME 4 0, NO.2

Meet the Makers Check out four Hawai‘i makers who have started their own businesses from scratch and make products that perfectly encapsulate everything we love about the Islands. BY KE VI N ALLE N, JUL IE STA NL EY

From the Valley Join the Kalihi Valley Instructional Bike Exchange on its annual bike ride through Kalihi and learn more about its mission to change how locals and visitors perceive the industrial O‘ahu neighborhood. BY NATANYA FRI E DHEIM

HAWA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

photo: aaron k. yoshino

IN THIS ISSUE ISLAND HOPPING 14 O‘ahu: The Flip Side Off the strip at the Wayfinder Waikīkī, you don’t need an ocean view for a fantastic stay. BY KE VI N ALLEN

18 Lāna‘i: The Lions of Lāna‘i Started in 2004, the Lāna‘i Cat Sanctuary is truly a paradise for our feline friends and is home to over 650 stray cats. BY KE VI N ALLEN

22 Kaua‘i: Hiker’s Paradise Kōke‘e State Park on Kaua‘i boasts roughly 45 miles of hiking trails— including some of our favorites on the island. BY CAT H E RI N E TOTH FOX

26 Hawai‘i Island: Hele to Hilo This sleepy town on the east side of Hawai‘i Island is often overlooked— and really shouldn’t be. BY CAT H E RI N E TOTH FOX

8 DEPARTMENTS 7

Editor’s Page Maui Strong BY K E V IN A LLE N

56 One Last Look PHOTO BY DAV ID C R OX FO RD

58 Like a Local

Ho‘omaka

Mauka to Makai

8 The Little Farm on the Hill 10 Mad about Manago 12 An Earned Voyage

BY CAT HE R INE TOT H FOX

48 Kau Kau Built with Love BY A LLIS O N F R AS CATO R E

E X P LO R E A N O ‘A H U P LU M E R IA FA R M P. 8

photos: aaron k. yoshino

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Nā Mokulua, the two islets off the coast of Lanikai Beach, enamor visitors and locals daily with their picturesque presence. Moku Nui—the star of our cover—literally translates to “big island.” Its smaller neighbor islet is appropriately named Moku Iki, which means “small island.” V INC E NT LIM (@vincelimphoto)

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ON THE COVER

M E E T L Ā N A‘ I’ S L ITT L E L IO N S

MEET FOUR EXTRAORDINARY LOCAL MAKER S AND DISCOVER WHAT IT MEANS TO B E MADE- IN- HAWAI‘I.

PAG E 32

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STATEMENT OF OWNERSHIP MANAGEMENT AND CIRCULATION (All Periodicals Publications Except Requestor Publications) 1. Publication Title: Hawaii Magazine. 2. Publication Number: 0892-0990. 3. Filing Date: 09/06/23. 4. Issue Frequency: Quarterly. 5. Number of Issues Published Annually: 4. 6. Annual Subscription Price: $19.99. 7. Complete Mailing Address of Known Office of Publication: 1088 Bishop Street, Ste. LL2, Honolulu, HI 96813. Contact Person: Chuck Tindle, Telephone 808-5347521. 8. Complete Mailing Address of Headquarters or General Business Office of Publisher: 1088 Bishop St, Ste. LL2, Honolulu, HI 96813 9. Full Names and Complete Mailing Addresses of Publisher, Editor, and Managing Editor: Publisher: Cyd Rosa, 1088 Bishop St, Ste. LL2, Honolulu, HI 96813, Editor: Kevin Allen, 1088 Bishop St, Ste. LL2, Honolulu, HI 96813, Editor at Large: Catherine Toth Fox, 1088 Bishop St, Ste. LL2, Honolulu, HI 96813. 10. Owner: PacificBasin Communications, LLC, 1088 Bishop St, Ste. LL2, Honolulu, HI 96813, Duane Kurisu, same as above. 11. Known Bondholders, Mortgages, and Other Security Holders Owning or Holding 1 Percent of More of Total Amount of Bonds, Mortgages, or Other Securities: None. 12. Tax Status (For completion by nonprofit organizations authorized to mail at nonprofit rates): N/A. 13. Publication Title: Hawaii Magazine. 14. Issue Date for Circulation Data Below: Summer 2022. 15. Extent and Nature of Circulation: a. Total Number of Copies (Net Press Run) – Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 29,431; No. Copies of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date: 29,654; b. Paid Circulation: (1) Mailed Outside-Country Paid Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541 – Average: 19,963, Single Issue: 20,199, (2) Mailed In-Country Paid Subscriptions Stated on PS Form 3541 – Average: 0, Single Issue: 0, (3) Paid Distribution Outside the Mails Including Sales Through Dealers and Carriers, Street Vendors, Counter Sales, and Other Paid Distribution Outside USPS - Average: 8,659, Single Issue: 8,620, (4) Paid Distribution by Other Classes of Mail Through the USPS - Average: 0, Single Issue: 0; c. Total Paid Distribution – Average: 28,621, Single Issue: 28,819; d. Free or Nominal Rate Distribution: (1) Free or Nominal Rate Outside-Country Copies included on PS Form 3541 – Average: 0, Single Issue: 0, (2) Free or Nominal Rate In-Country Copies Included on PS Form 3541 – Average: 0, Single Issue: 0, (3) Free or Nominal Rate Copies Mailed at Other Classes Through the USPS – Average: 0, Single Issue: 0, (4) Free or Nominal Rate Distribution Outside the Mail – Average: 0, Single Issue: 0; e. Total Free or Nominal Rate Distribution – Average: 0, Single Issue: 0; f. Total Distribution – Average: 28,621, Single Issue: 28,819; g. Copies not Distributed - Average: 810, Single Issue: 835; h. Total – Average: 29,431, Single Issue: 29,654; i. Percent Paid – Average: 100%, Single Issue: 100%. 16. Electronic Copy Circulation: a. Paid Electronic Copies – Average No. Copies Each Issue During Preceding 12 Months: 170, No. Copies of Single Issue Published Nearest to Filing Date: 201; b. Total Paid Print Copies + Paid Electronic Copies – Average: 28,792, Single Issue: 29,020; c. Total Print Distribution + Paid Electronic Copies – Average: 28,792, Single Issue: 29,020; d. Percent Paid (Both Print & Electronic Copies) – Average: 100%, Single Issue: 100%. I certify that 50% of all of my distributed copies (electronic and print) are paid above a nominal price. 17. Publication Statement of Ownership, if the publication is a general publication, publication of this statement is required. Will be printed in the Fall 2023 issue of this publication. 18. Signature and Title of Editor, Publisher, Business Manager, or Owner:/s/ Cyd Rosa, Date 09/06/23. I certify that all information furnished on this form is true and complete. I understand that anyone who furnishes false or misleading information on this form or who omits material or information requested on this form may be subject to criminal sanctions (including fines and imprisonment) and/or civil sanctions (including civil penalties). 6

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EDITORʼS PAGE

Maui Strong

The Valley Isle is redefining what it means to be resilient in the face of overwhelming tragedy.

N AUG. 8, 2023 , Maui experi-

enced one of its worst tragedies ever. Wildfires swept through West Maui and parts of the island’s scenic upcountry district of Kula. The town of Lahaina was burned to the ground, and thousands of residents lost loved ones, their homes and businesses to the flames. Residents of the state—myself included—were left shell-shocked. And while the pain of those affected by the fires must be unimaginable, and the road to recovery will be a long one, Maui stands strong. Meanwhile, we implore people to continue visiting the island, but now with a mission in mind: to help aid in the Valley Isle’s recovery through conscious, responsible travel. While on Maui, shop at local businesses, find volunteering activities and come with a well of

patience, as many Maui locals are still recovering from the fires not just physically, but emotionally as well. Of course, supporting local businesses is now more important than ever, and you can meet some of our resident makers on page 33, where we profile four Hawai‘i business owners. On page 42, resident freelancer Natanya Friedheim takes readers on a bike ride through Kalihi with local nonprofit KVIBE, which aims to teach the keiki (kids) of Kalihi biking skills while also providing them with a community of peers dedicated to keeping them out of trouble. It’s a much-needed heartwarming read. If you’d like to contribute money to help support Maui, visit hawaiicommunityfoundation.org/ maui-strong.

Aloha,

KEVIN ALLEN

Email kevina@hawaiimagazine.com

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HO‘OMAKA

to begin

The Little Farm on the Hill

If you want to see some of the most beautiful and best smelling plumeria in the world, check out Little Plumeria Farms on O‘ahu’s North Shore. BY KEV IN ALLEN

HAW A I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

C U LT U R E

photos: aaron k. yoshino, courtesy little plumeria farms

im Little has been in the Hawai‘i plumeria business for 50 years. Growing and cross-pollinating plumeria—known in Hawaiian as melia—since 1973, as Jim Little Nursery & Farms, Little has produced some of the most vibrant, fragrant and unique plumerias in the world. From ruffled flowers to plumeria in stunning shades of red and yellow, these are not your average lei flower but works of art. And now, after five decades of growing his crop, visitors and locals can visit Little Plumeria Farms during weekly farm tours led by his son, Clark Little—you may have heard of him—and Clark’s son, Dane Little. So how did three generations of Littles end up deciding to share the farm with others? It all started with Dane, who after returning home from college wanted to give something new a shot and began helping his grandfather sell plumeria seeds on eBay. And he learned how to farm and cross-pollinate from his grandfather. Seeing that his son was interested in the business, Clark Little—yes, the famous shorebreak and ocean phoLEFT tographer—also got on board, and The plumeria found at Little before long the three Littles got to Farms are some work getting the farm ready for tours of the rarest in with the idea of spreading aloha and the world. the beauty of the land with others. ABOVE Preparing the farm, however, was From left to right, no easy feat and involved some hard Clark, Jim and Dane Little. labor. The Littles had their hands full on a two-year project that included TOP RIGHT the removal of invasive trees and The view from the farm, which species that had taken root on the overlooks O‘ahu's farm, as well as putting in a driveway North Shore is and automated irrigation systems. spectacular.

| HO‘OMAKA

Fortunately, the hard work paid off. They started up their tours on May 1, 2023—Lei Day—and going by the smiles on their faces, tourgoers couldn’t have been more pleased. Public farm tours are an hour long and give guests a chance to stroll around the plumeria farm with Dane or Clark as they talk about some of the rare and one-ofa-kind hybrid plumerias on the property. The scent of plumeria fills the air around the farm and visitors will likely smell the place before they even get there. And once they do, their visual senses are treated to panoramic views of O‘ahu’s North Shore, from Mokulē‘ia all the way down to Hale‘iwa. The Littles also teach tourgoers about the various stages of plant growth in their nursery, where they crossbreed plumeria and produce seedlings. They won’t know what the actual flowers from any crossbreeding will look like for two to five years after planting. The farm also hosts private tours on Tuesdays and Thursdays. Not only will you be able to see not-yetreleased hybrids from the Littles’ collection, but each person on a private tour receives a signed copy of Jim Little’s book, Growing Plumerias in Hawai‘i and Around the World—and gets to choose a USDA-approved plumeria cultivar to take home. Whether you decide to go on a public or private tour, the overall beauty and majesty of the farm can’t be ignored. It’s so quiet up in these hills. The fragrant smell of plumeria follows you wherever you go, and tour guides Dane and Clark Little show nothing but aloha to guests. And the flowers: Some are so dynamic and unique, their vibrant shades resembling the colors of the sky lit up by a Hawai‘i sunset, that they demand your attention. These are, without a doubt, some of the rarest plumerias in the world, and you can only see them here. “It’s a labor of love,” says Jim Little. “But the smile on people’s faces when they come here, that’s priceless.” General tours are $45 for adults, $25 for kids and are held every Monday, Wednesday and Friday. Private tours are $250 for adults, $150 for children, and are held every Tuesday and Thursday. Book your tour at littleplumeriafarms.com. FALL 2 0 23

FOOD

Mad about Manago

The 106-year-old Manago Hotel restaurant is as humble as ever after earning a prestigious national award. BY C A T H E R I N E TO TH FO X

HE MENU AT THE MANAGO HOTEL RESTAURANT RARELY CHANGES . The papaya at break-

fast is usually from someone’s backyard and, if they’re available, the ono (wahoo) and ‘ōpelu (mackerel scad) on the lunch and dinner menus are caught off the Kona Coast. Here, you can order liver and onions—a rarity!—and pickled ogo (seaweed).

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

The main attraction, though, is the pork chops, thin center cutlets fried to a crisp and smothered in brown gravy and onions. It’s the only thing I order when I stop in— and the only pork chops I crave. They’re even better than my mom’s. I took a friend recently to Manago, specifically for the pork chops, though she was enthralled by the rustic mac salad that came with the entrée. (The dish also comes with sides of cooked lima beans, corn and peas, and a big saimin bowl of white rice to share.) Here’s how it went. ABOVE We get there just as The pork chops and ‘ōpelu (mackeral lunch service starts— scad) are two of the promptly at 11 a.m.— most popular dishes and put in our order. at the restaurant at the historic Manago Within a few minutes Hotel. the cherry wood-panTOP RIGHT eled dining room, cooled by old-fashioned The cherry woodpaneled dining room ceiling fans, fills up hasn’t changed in with patrons, none of decades.

whom need a menu. “What about the butterfish?” my friend asks. “No. We’re eating pork chops.” “Shrimp?” “No.” The hotel in Captain Cook opened in 1917, when Kinzo Manago and Osame Nagata sold udon, bread and jam, and coffee out of their home, then added cots for travelers. Today, the hotel and its popular restaurant are run by fourth-generation sisters Britney and Taryn Manago. This year the 106-year-old restaurant—considered the oldest continuously operating restaurant in Hawai‘i—earned the 2023 America’s Classics Award from the prestigious James Beard Foundation. It’s the fourth Hawai‘i eatery to win the award; the others are Helena’s Hawaiian Foods in Honolulu, Sam Choy’s Kaloko (now closed) on Hawai‘i Island and Hamura Saimin Stand on Kaua‘i. Taryn Manago, who’s working the day we visit, says it’s been busy—but it’s always busy. She barely has time to chat: The phone rings, customers line up, tables need to be cleared. After lunch we wander around the hotel, a place my parents stayed when visiting Kona years ago. Located around 20 miles south of the Ellison Onizuka Kona International Airport at Keāhole, it’s nowhere near tourist attractions or large resort towns like Waikoloa. And though there’s nothing fancy—or even modern—about the plantation-era hotel, you can’t beat the rates, as low as $88 a night. (Rooms with shared bathrooms, which are even cheaper, are currently unavailable.) The hotel also offers a traditional Japanese room with ofuro (Japanese bathtub), tatami mats on the floor and a futon to sleep on. There are no elevators, no air conditioning and no TVs, but many rooms have balconies with views of the coast. No frills. Kinda like the restaurant. And I’m not complaining. 82-6155 Māmalahoa Highway, Captain Cook, Hawai‘i Island, (808) 323-2642, managohotel.com, @managohotel

photos: megan spelman

HO‘OMAKA |

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HO‘OMAKA |

Q&A

An Earned Voyage

Lehua Kamalu is one of the primary navigators for the Hōkūle‘a, which just began its newest voyage around the Pacific. B Y K E VI N A L L E N

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

Q&A

hanks to GPS technology, finding your way is easy today—unless you’re on the Hōkūle‘a. A wa‘a kaulua (double-hulled Polynesian voyaging canoe), the Hōkūle‘a has been making regular voyages since 1975, connecting with Indigenous cultures from around the world. Its Moananuiākea voyage, a four-year circumnavigation of the Pacific, is underway now. So on a vessel without modern technology to rely on, how do you navigate the Pacific Ocean? Lehua Kamalu, one of the primary navigators aboard the Hōkūle‘a. She knows the way.

How did you get involved with the Polynesian Voyaging Society and the Hōkūle‘a? It was actually back in 2009 while I was finishing my bachelor’s degree at the University of Hawai‘i that I got involved with the society more intentionally as a volunteer. There was a call out for volunteers, just word of mouth, and at the time I was not even remotely interested in finding more things to fill my schedule with—I was just trying to graduate and get a job that would pay me a lot of money so I could keep living in Hawai‘i. But I went to the first meeting day and [captain and navigator of the Hōkūle‘a] Bruce Blankenfeld was there and he did a whole introduction to everyone of what was going on and talked about this really ambitious plan to take this canoe, the Hōkūle‘a, around the world—and I thought that was pretty amazing. After that, I kept going to help out almost every single day.

You also have to learn how to manage your sleep and make sure not to fall asleep when there are critical things going on in the world, like sunrises and sunsets and moonrises and all those good things that help you find your course. You also need to kind of keep a log to track how things are changing. Did the waves change? Did the wind change? Because out there, there are no landmasses to give you direction—you’re just staring at a horizon that looks identical 360 degrees around.

Tell me about Hōkūle‘a’s latest voyage, Moananuiākea. It’s really just the next chapter of what we did with our sail around the world. After getting back in 2017, we realized we didn’t quite get to visit everywhere we wanted to in our journey around the world— and as it turns out, going around the world, you’ll still miss probably 99% of it, particularly here in the Pacific. So we’ve wanted to go back and make connections with a lot of First Nations, First Peoples and Indigenous communities. Because for us, learning their stories and making connections with these communities are important factors for us to understand our place in the ocean and on this planet.

It’s not an easy journey to take, so it’s not taken lightly, that’s for sure.

photo: aaron k. yoshino

What’s it like, navigating Hōkūle‘a through the open ocean without any modern technology to assist you? It’s like the most extreme hobby you can think of. When you’re out on the ocean without being able to sight any landmarks, it sort of gets you into a little bit of a fearful, panic state where you start to question if you are even remotely on course. And part of navigating is just surviving the experience of being awake and being attentive and observant for long periods of time.

| HO‘OMAKA

What do you, personally, take away from your voyages with Hōkūle‘a?

I’ve often thought about it as earning voyages to places. Once you get there, you deserve to be there. Don’t get me wrong, I fly to a lot of places. I’m not gonna say I don’t, but it’s just … a different experience when you show up in a very slow, 5-nautical- mile-per-hour canoe. Earning your voyage, earning what you’re doing there and really getting to spend a lot of time becoming immersed in that place, into the nature of that area, and then seeing the people that allow it to thrive and who care for it is incredible. It’s not an easy journey to take, so it’s not taken lightly, that’s for sure.

Keep up to date with Hōkūle‘a and its journey around the Pacific by visiting hokulea.com. FALL 2 0 23

The Flip Side

Off the strip at the Wayfinder Waikīkī, you don’t need an ocean view for a fantastic stay.

photos: read mckendree

STORY BY KEVIN ALLEN

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

O ‘A H U

’M SITTING ON MY LĀNAI (veranda),

enjoying the breezes of Waikīkī and listening to the sounds of silence. That’s right, quiet, in Waikīkī. At night. No, I’m not staying at some isolated accommodation at one of the far ends of Waikīkī, where you can escape the noise at the expense of being blocks away from the beach. I’m at the Wayfinder Waikīkī on Ala Wai Boulevard, away from the clamor of Kalākaua Avenue. And while I’m only a five-minute walk away from the beach, it feels like I’m a world away from the busy Waikīkī strip. Here, at the Wayfinder Waikīkī, I can enjoy the silence on my lānai— and so much more. Once the Waikīkī Sand Villa Hotel, the property received a stunning makeover once new management, Dovetail + Co, stepped in. The second Wayfinder hotel in its catalog—the other one is in Newport, Rhode Island—the newly revamped property is a case study in classic, comfy local design. Working with Honolulu-based interior design firm The Vanguard Theory, touches of beachy, tropical inspiration can be seen all around the hotel. Rooms feature furniture with tropical floral patterns, but not to the point where the place

| ISLAND HOPPING

Rooms sport beachy, fun interior design with tropical patterns.

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O ‘A H U

looks kitschy or overly produced. Instead, much of the decor in the rooms and around the resort looks like what kama‘āina (longtime Hawai‘i residents) would have in their own homes. And it’s the small touches that stand out. The wall with bodysurfing fins in the lobby, the cork activity board, and the custom-made record sleeves—everything adds to the chilled-out, relaxing vibe of the space. And none of it comes off as manufactured. I spent a lot of time at the pool—which is saying something as I usually head to the beach to surf as soon as I’m near the ocean. But the pool here feels like my own personal oasis, a cozy little grotto where relaxing comes easy. It helps that the poolside ABOVE bar, Lost + Found, makes some genuinely The pool feels delicious drinks. The small, intimate bar like an oasis. crafts a variety of tropical cocktails and mixed drinks, all best consumed poolside— TOP RIGHT Lounge chairs and and I especially enjoyed the Adult POG, comfortable decor a mix of pineapple, orange, guava, liliko‘i fill the lobby. (passion fruit) boba and sparkling wine. The BOTTOM RIGHT Wayfinder Waikīkī also hosts private events The Moke is a for hotel guests, and my boozy poolside rentable, lowriding experience was enhanced by a house DJ jeeplike car. 16

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

spinning local jams and radio hits. You really can’t talk about the Wayfinder Waikīkī without mentioning Redfish Waikīkī, the property’s in-house restaurant that serves some of the best fish plates and poke bowls on the island. It’s a culinary experience conceived by Foodland, a local grocery chain where kama‘āina have been getting fresh fish and poke bowls for decades, so it’s no surprise that Redfish Waikīkī’s menu is so appealing to visitors and residents alike. Just know, you’ll want to arrive hungry as portions at Redfish are not small. My partner, Kaila, and I started with a plate of crab and artichoke dip, a creamy and delicious way to begin the meal. Served with warm garlic bread, every bite was delicious—with the flavors of crabmeat, artichoke heart and a butter panko topping filling our mouths and stomachs. For mains, or what they call “medium bites,” I went with the ‘Ahi Moco, a unique twist on the classic loco moco (a beef patty on a bed of white rice topped with an over-easy egg and copious amounts of gravy). Instead of a beef patty, the dish is served with a lomi (pressed) ‘ahi patty with a redfish demi, crispy onion strings and garlic rice. While a departure from the classic loco moco formula, it hits all the familiar notes while bringing its own flavors and tastes to the table. And it’s

photos: mariko reed, laura la monaca, chris roher

ISLAND HOPPING |

O ‘A H U

filling. Kaila made her own poke bowl, customizing it to her liking. She picked the kind of rice and toppings she wanted and the kind of poke too, from classic flavors like shoyu ‘ahi to wild alternatives, like ginger scallion hamachi or even beets. Outside of the food and drinks, the Wayfinder Waikīkī also offers guided runs through Waikīkī and rents out sweet lowrider jeeplike vehicles, which they call Mokes, to guests. But I’m a bit of a homebody, and I love staying at a place where I feel at home. And that’s what I grew to appreciate about the Wayfinder. It’s in some regards the flip side to Waikīkī’s hustle and bustle. Here on the mauka (toward the mountains) side of Waikīkī, looking out at the Ala Wai Canal and toward the Ko‘olau Range, I revel in the quiet. If I want, I can easily walk down to Kalākaua Avenue to enjoy the hubbub and infectious energy that is Waikīkī. But when I want to retreat and regather myself, you’ll find me at the Wayfinder.

Come hungry, as plates at the Redfish are filling—but too good to leave leftovers.

CAPITOL MODERN is a small gallery with a big responsibility. The official State Art museum serves all of Hawai‘i by presenting an evolving and comprehensive portrait of the Islands. The contemporary local artists featured in the galleries all have a connection to the Hawaiian Islands, whether they are Native Hawaiian, born and raised here, or passionate residents committed to art throughout the state. Located downtown in Honolulu’s historic Capitol District, next to ‘Iolani Palace and the State Government, there’s always something happening at Capitol Modern. From new installations and programs to a mosaic of monthly events, there’s activity and art for all ages.

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To book a reservation and for more information on the hotel, visit the Wayfinder Waikīkī website at wayfinderhotels.com or call (808) 922-4744.

The best part is that admission to the grounds, galleries and events is always free, and no advance tickets are required. Stroll and reflect, unleash your creativity, at Hawai‘i’s biggest little art collection. Open Monday through Saturday, 10am to 4pm. Learn more at capitolmodern.org.

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The Lions of Lāna‘i

Started in 2004, the Lāna‘i Cat Sanctuary is truly a paradise for our feline friends, and is home to over 650 stray cats.

photos: great went

STORY BY KEVIN ALLEN

L Ā N A‘ I

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ĀNA‘I IS A PLACE LIKE NO OTHER.

On this tiny island you’ll find coffee shops that open and close when they please, a relaxed mood among residents and an idyllic cat shelter, among other things. Started in 2004 by Kathy Carroll, the Lāna‘i Cat Sanctuary has become one of the biggest visitor attractions on the island, and its purpose and mission—to help control Lāna‘i’s wild cat population—has remained the same. After moving to Lāna‘i with her husband, Mike, who now owns an art studio in town, Carroll quickly found herself caring for a small stray kitten. Lāna‘i didn’t have a Hawaiian Humane Society location back then—it still doesn’t— and it didn’t have a shelter of any sort, or vet to care for stray animals. So Carroll, a spirited cat lover, traveled to Maui to get her kitten the procedures it needed. But for her, the lack of a shelter on Lāna‘i was a concern. So she made it her mission to secure a place for her feline friends to live, and was able to convince the Four Seasons Lāna‘i to loan her a horse stable, where she put up deer netting and used the space as a makeshift shelter.

Keoni Vaughn attending to the feline residents of the Lāna‘i Cat Sanctuary.

In 2009, the sanctuary was moved to the plot of land it’s on now, which at the time had access to running water and not much else. However, with the aid of volunteers and other dedicated cat lovers, she was able to get the place up and running. Now, almost two decades after its start, the sanctuary has been elevated to a whole new level. Keoni Vaughn joined the team in 2014 as executive director; he helps to run operations and provides plans and strategies to increase revenue and expand the sanctuary. Since his arrival, dozens

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L Ā N A‘ I

Lāna‘i Cat Sanctuary is home to over 650 cats.

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

Each cat has a name, and sanctuary guides are tasked with learning them all.

volunteers, the Lāna‘i Cat Sanctuary is probably the most relaxing place to lend a hand in Hawai‘i. Volunteers help out by simply socializing with the cats, many of which come in as strays and need a little push to get them comfortable with humans. Fortunately, as they see more and more people coming in and giving treats to the sociable cats, the unsociable ones pick up on those behaviors. Other cats, for various reasons—from medical to behavioral—are housed separately from the two main communities. Visitors can also volunteer to hang out with them, and visitors are given bags of treats and brushes to help groom some of the older, more fragile ones. Of course, adopting a cat and supporting the sanctuary financially is the best way to help out. “We adopt out 50 to 100 cats per year, and I like seeing our numbers staying flat or better yet, going down,” says Adarna. “It means we don’t have to keep building and expanding the sanctuary, because the best thing you can do for your cats is give them more room and spread them out.” Of course, even if some of them are never adopted, the cats at the Lāna‘i Cat Sanctuary seem more than happy to spend their days there, basking in the sun. The Lāna‘i Cat Sanctuary is open from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily, and admission is free. Find out more at lanaicatsanctuary.org.

photos: great went

of renovations and changes have been made to the property. “There’s a total of 665 cats right now at the sanctuary,” says Joe Adarna, who joined the team as a sanctuary manager in 2019. “We take in, just on this small island, 150 to 200 cats a year. There are that many stray cats.” But, to the unknowing eye, the sanctuary doesn’t look crowded. Housed in two main facilities, cats can be spotted napping up in the branches, sleeping in tiny cat houses or tucked away in patches of brush. There’s ample room for them to roam, and probably hundreds of napping spots too. At the Lāna‘i Cat Sanctuary—which wasn’t a visitor attraction at all, at the start—visitors will find colorful outdoor signage and selfie spots, and a store full of adorable cat-related merchandise. Upon entering the sanctuary, they’re greeted by a chorus of “meows” from the greeting committee made up of cats who know that affectionate behavior up front gets them treats. If you meet one you truly adore, you can either adopt it on the spot or “sponsor” the kitty by making monthly donations to the sanctuary. In exchange for that sponsorship, you get monthly photos and updates on your favorite cat. Many of these moneymaking initiatives were introduced by Vaughn, who previously served as vice president of the Hawaiian Humane Society. “I feel like there’s a lot of ways for people to volunteer and get involved without even being here by donating. I mean, with a little over 3,000 people on the island, we gotta raise $1.2 million a year to keep the place running,” says Vaughn. On-site volunteering opportunities are also available for visitors looking to help out. And for the

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Hiker’s Paradise

Kōke‘e State Park on Kaua‘i boasts roughly 45 miles of hiking trails—including some of my favorites on the island. B Y C AT H E R I N E T O T H F O X

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

K A U A‘ I

photo: haizhan zheng via getty images, catherine toth fox

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HE FORECAST CALLED FOR SUNSHINE —after all,

this was Kaua‘i—and we planned accordingly. That meant leaving rain jackets and backpack shells behind. Luckily, that was the only mistake we made that weekend. When I turned 40, my husband took me on a hiking adventure to Kaua‘i. We stayed in one of the rustic cabins at Kōke‘e State Park, perched above 3,000 feet. It was March and the temperature had dropped to 45 degrees overnight. Even with a fire in the cabin’s wood-burning stove, we piled on sleeping bags and blankets to stay warm. In other words, we were prepared. I had always wanted to go back to reexperience that weekend with my son, who, at 6 years old, is already an avid hiker. I wanted him to see the otherworldly Alaka‘i Swamp on the elevated flatlands near Mount Wai‘ale‘ale, and to gaze at the mesmerizing Nāpali Coast from the end of the Awa‘awapuhi Trail. We decided to spend a weekend this past summer on Kaua‘i— specifically on the island’s west side. Instead of roughing it in a cabin—if you have kids, you’ll understand—we opted to stay at the Waimea Plantation Cottages, operated by Coast Hotels. Originally built in the early 1900s for sugar plantation workers, these 59 one- to five-bedroom historic cottages have been refreshed and modernized—hello air conditioning!—and come with full kitchens, spacious porches and living rooms that trick you into lingering inside a little too long. The property is right on a black-sand beach, too, perfect for long walks at sunset and, if you have a kid like mine, stick and kukui nut collecting. On clear days you can see the privately owned island Ni‘ihau in the distance. Kaua‘i has some of my favorite hikes in the Islands, from the 3.8-mile out-and-back Māhā‘ulepū Heritage Trail that traverses the island’s sunny south coast to the 8-mile Hanakāpī‘ai Falls Trail along the rugged Nāpali Coast. And then there’s the 4,345-acre Kōke‘e State Park, which boasts about 45 miles of diverse trails. Because of its location—between 3,200 and 4,200 feet above sea level—the park is home to various terrains and habitats, from wet rainforests with native birds like the ‘apapane and ‘amakihi to drier scrambles within the 14-mile-long Waimea Canyon. The location is also why weather matters— and why you should be prepared for anything. (Lesson learned.) Average temperatures range from 45 degrees in January to 68 degrees in July, and because of its proximity to Mount Wai‘ale‘ale—one of the world’s wettest spots— this area gets about 70 inches of rainfall on average a year. (Mount Wai‘ale‘ale sees about 450 inches of rainfall annually.) So it could be sunny on your lānai (veranda) at Waimea Plantation Cottages—like it was for us—but windy, rainy and cold along the trail to Pihea Summit. (See our tips on page 24.) Here are the hikes we did.

Alaka‘i Swamp Trail

Rare • Special • Unique www.lahaolehawaii.com

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K A U A‘ I View of Waipo‘o Falls.

Canyon Trail to Waipo‘o Falls 3 miles round trip, easy to moderate Before we got to Kōke‘e State Park, we stopped at the lookout at Waimea Canyon. I pointed to a waterfall in the distance and told my son, “We’re going there.” And we did. The Canyon Trail to Waipo‘o Falls is one of the easier treks in the state park—and with some of the best views of the colorful canyon. It’s a 3-mile round-trip hike that’s well-marked and good for novice hikers. (No bouldering or treacherous stream crossing required!) After a hilly section, the trail opens up to near-360degree views of the canyon, with its crested buttes and deep valley gorges. The view is breathtaking—and somewhat overshadows the trail’s end at the top of the 800-foot Waipo‘o Falls, which, since you’re on top of it, you can’t really see.

6 Tips For Visiting Kōke‘e State Park

Chili and cornbread from the Kōke‘e Lodge.

1. It’s a long drive

The park is about 42 miles from Līhu‘e Airport and it will take about 90 minutes to get there. Follow Route 550, aka Waimea Canyon Drive, to the top. (Route 552, aka Kōke‘e Road, also takes you there; it meets up with Waimea Canyon Drive.) The road is winding—similar to the Road to Hāna on Maui—so those prone to motion sickness should drive or sit upfront.

2. There’s a fee

Since 2019 there’s been a fee for nonresidents entering both Kōke‘e State Park and Waimea Canyon State Park (where the popular lookout is). Nonresidents pay $5 per person. Children 3 and under and Hawai‘i residents with valid ID can enter free. Also, nonresidents have to pay $10 per vehicle to park; that fee is waived for Hawai‘i residents. And that nonresident fee applies to both Kōke‘e State Park and Waimea Canyon State Park, so you only need to pay once. Kiosks take credit cards and tickets are valid for one calendar day—not 24 hours. You don’t need a reservation unless you plan to camp at the park.

The nonprofit Hui o Laka operates the Kōke‘e Natural History Museum as a visitor center for both state parks. The museum is open from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily, including major holidays. This is a great place to stop and learn more about the park; the museum offers trail maps and has a knowledgeable staff that can help you plan your visit.

4. The restaurant is a must—and it closes at 4:30 p.m.

Near the museum is Kōke‘e Lodge, which has a great restaurant that offers a variety of ‘ono (delicious) dishes, from kālua pig nachos to homestyle cornmeal pancakes topped with fresh fruit to a hearty chili made with local grass-fed beef. Just remember—the kitchen closes at 4 p.m., so plan on eating early. The attached gift shop has lots of locally made and crafted gifts and souvenirs.

5. Look for native birds and plants

Even if you’re not an avid birder or budding botanist, you’ll appreciate any sightings of Hawai‘i’s rare and endangered endemic forest birds, like the white-rumped ‘apapane, the scarlet-red ‘i‘iwi and the friendly ‘elepaio, and the abundance of native plants, including koa, pūkiawe and ‘ōhi‘a.

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

6. Be prepared

The weather at this elevation is likely to be dramatically different from the weather at sea level, so best to prepare for rain and cold, just in case. You won’t have reliable cellphone service, but keep your phones charged anyway in case you find a pocket of service (which we did near the swamp.) Bring lots of water and snacks and wear sturdy shoes.

photos: robert michaud via getty images, james nakamura

3. Stop at the museum

K A U A‘ I

View from the Awa‘awapuhi Trail.

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Alaka‘i Swamp Trail

Awa‘awapuhi Trail 6.5 miles round trip, moderately difficult The first 3 miles of the Awa‘awapuhi Trail ramble downhill toward a spectacular view of the sheer cliffs and canyons of Awa‘awapuhi and Nu‘alolo valleys along the Nāpali Coast. This is where you stop, marvel at the view, then suddenly realize that to get back to the trailhead, you have to walk back up. Yes, the 3 uphill miles back are brutal. So, as I told my 6-year-old son, enjoy the journey. The path meanders through rainforests and desertlike terrain and is dotted with more than 50 different species of native plants, including ‘ōhi‘a trees, pūkiawe and (my son’s favorite) ‘a‘ali‘i.

HANDC RAFTE D TE AS F OR THE MODE RN TABL E

photos: adam springer via getty images, estivillml via getty images

Pihea to Alaka‘i Swamp Trail 8 miles round trip, moderately difficult To me, this is the park’s signature trail. There are only a few montane bog environments in Hawai‘i that you can visit, and this is one of them. And you won’t find an ecosystem like this anywhere else on Kaua‘i. The trail starts at the Pu‘u o Kila Lookout in the park. We tramped for a couple of miles, along up-and-down sections lined with amau ferns and fluttering ōlapa trees. The trail forks: To the left is the summit of Pihea, to the right is the trail that leads to the swamp. It didn’t take us very long to reach the boardwalk, first built in 1991 to minimize the impact of hikers on the environment. We walked past flowering ‘ōhi‘a trees and hāpu‘u ferns, catching glimpses of native birds flitting among the trees. The weather suddenly shifted, making the place feel much more like the boggy swamp of my imagination. It’s easy to see why this place has been revered by Native Hawaiians for centuries.

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Hele to Hilo

This sleepy town on the east side of Hawai‘i Island is often overlooked— and really shouldn’t be. S T O R Y B Y C AT H E R I N E T O T H F O X P H OTO G R A P H Y BY A A R O N K . YO S H I N O

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

H AWA I ‘ I I S L A N D

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Hilo Farmers Market

HE LIGHT RAIN, THE COZY GRAY MORNINGS , the old

buildings and shops that haven’t changed in decades. Everything in Hilo is a little slower, a little quieter, a little more relaxed. The sleepy town on Hawai‘i Island’s east side isn’t on the top of most travel itineraries, with visitors only flying in for the hourlong drive to Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park or skipping the area altogether for the sunnier Kona and Kohala coasts. Honestly, the sleepy town isn’t for everyone. There’s no late-night scene, no sprawling shopping centers, not even a Costco. Instead, what you get is a glimpse into small-town life in Hawai‘i, with lush botanical gardens, family-run farms, historic sites, beloved restaurants and one of the best farmers markets in the state. This historic town, with fewer than 45,000 residents, has its roots in Hawai‘i’s sugar industry. Today, it’s the Hawai‘i County seat and home to the University of Hawai‘i at Hilo. It’s best known for its proximity to two active volcanoes—Mauna Loa and Mauna Kea—and hosting the prestigious Merrie Monarch Festival. The town has been struck by several deadly tsunamis, one in 1946 that killed 159 people and another in 1960 that claimed 61 lives. The Pacific Tsunami Warning Center was established in 1949 to track these destructive waves. See? Hilo is actually a very interesting place. So don’t overlook this charming town. There’s more to do than you realize.

Located in Downtown Hilo, the Hilo Farmers Market is considered one of the best open markets in Hawai‘i—and it’s open seven days a week. Here, you’ll find vendors selling an assortment of fresh produce and goods, including jams made from local fruits, homemade baked goods, fresh flowers, roasted coffee, crafts and gifts, and lots of grab-and-go foods like mochi doughnuts, shrimp and avocado rolls and green papaya salad. (The biggest markets are on Wednesdays and Saturdays, with over 200 vendors.) The majority of Hawaiian papaya are grown on the east side of the island, so be sure to grab one (or two) of these sweet fruits. Corner of Māmo Street and Kamehameha Avenue, (808) 933-1000, hilofarmersmarket.com

Carlsmith Beach Park While Hilo isn’t known for its beaches, Carlsmith Beach Park is one of the few spots where you can get into fairly calm water and swim or snorkel around. It’s one of the beach parks that dot the southeastern coastline, with plenty of shady areas, covered pavilions, picnic tables and an expansive lawn. Freshwater flows up in several areas, making the lagoons there a bit cooler. Look for honu, Hawaiian green sea turtles. There’s parking and restrooms, and lifeguards on weekends and holidays. 1815 Kalaniana‘ole Ave.

Two Ladies Kitchen The easiest way to find Two Ladies Kitchen? Look for the line on Kīlauea Avenue in Downtown Hilo. Since 1993, this shop has been famous for its handmade mochi, a sweet Japanese glutinous rice cake that comes in a rainbow of colors and stuffed with everything from sweet potato to peanut butter to malted milk balls. Two Ladies’ most popular item, though, is the strawberry mochi—a full-size fresh strawberry wrapped with tsubu-an (a coarse red azuki bean paste) and pillowy-soft mochi. You have to order this in advance. 274 Kīlauea Ave., (808) 961-4766 FALL 2 0 23

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H AWA I ‘ I I S L A N D Chef Mark Pomaski and wife, Soni.

Sizzling Tetsuyaki Poke

Moon and Turtle

FOR FOODIES

This low-key restaurant in Hilo has become a foodie destination. Hilo native chef Mark Pomaski serves some of Hawai‘i’s most exciting and delicious dishes, highlighting local ingredients he often gets from the Hilo Farmers Market, along with sustainable options like ta‘ape, an invasive snapper. Check its Instagram (@moonandturtle) to find out what’s on the menu—because it changes often. Reservations strongly recommended. 51 Kīlauea Ave., (808) 961-0599

Suisan Fish Market

Around for more than 100 years, Suisan knows local fish. Its poke is super popular, with varieties including spicy ‘ahi, kimchi tako (octopus) and hamachi wasabi mayo. 93 Lihiwai St.

Roasted Veggie and Hāmākua Mushroom Flatbread

Big Island Candies

A must-stop for omiyage (gifts), this bakery, which opened in 1977, is famous for its chocolate-dipped shortbread cookies. But it also offers a variety of shortbread flavors, brownies, chocolate-covered macadamia nuts and local coffee. Ask about seasonal flavors. 585 Hinano St.

Miyo Restaurant & Izakaya

This hidden gem is a local favorite, serving delicious Japanese food with a homestyle feel. For a casual meal, order from its izakaya (bar) menu, with items like ‘ahi ceviche, oysters and smoked pork belly. Takeout is available, too. 564 Hinano St.

Kawamoto Store

A popular lunch spot for locals is this okazuya, where you can make your own bento box of goodies: vegetable and shrimp tempura, Spam musubi, inari (cone) sushi, corned beef hash, Korean fried chicken and more. 784 Kīlauea Ave.

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

Popover Bakery & Café About a five-minute drive from Hilo International Airport is a newish bakery that should be your first stop off the plane. Grab coffee cakes, cinnamon rolls, croissants, cheesecakes, cookies, doughnuts and—of course—popovers here. In recent years it has expanded to offer a variety of sandwiches and flatbreads—we loved the Hāmākua, with pesto, fresh baby spinach, garlic, cheese and ali‘i mushrooms grown on Hawai‘i Island— and an extensive menu of coffees. 399 E. Kawili St., (808) 935-7874, popoverhi.com

H AWA I ‘ I I S L A N D

Hawai‘i Tropical Botanical Garden Located in Pāpa‘ikou, this 20-acre botanical garden and nature preserve is nestled in a lush, scenic valley that opens to Onomea Bay. Walk on a boardwalk that meanders across streams and through a garden with more than 2,500 tropical and subtropical plants, including notable collections of palms, heliconias and bromeliads. You can even see a waterfall—the three-tiered Onomea Falls—and stunning views of the bay. 27-717 Old Māmalahoa Highway, (808) 964-5233, htbg.com

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Aloha! I am Angelina Moore, a local artist/designer in Hawaii. My heartfelt appreciation goes out to you for supporting my work. My designs reflect Hawaii’s amazing environment, so I hope you enjoy wearing Kai Wahine Designs as much as I enjoy creating them for you.

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‘Akaka Falls

FOR KIDS Pana‘ewa Rainforest Zoo and Garden

The main attraction at this 12-acre zoo— free to the public—is its Bengal tigers. The playground is awesome, too. 800 Stainback Highway.

‘Imiloa Astronomy Center

Learn about Hawaiian navigation and modern astronomy at this state-of-the-art center and planetarium. Kids love the dozens of interactive displays. 600 ‘Imiloa Pl.

Slow Your Roll

Gamers and Pokémon fans will love this gaming lounge, with over 300 board games to choose from. It has Pokémon cards, too, and the service is fantastic. 190 Keawe St., Suite 21

Makani’s Magic Pineapple Shack

This colorful snack shop offers creative and Instagram-worthy desserts, including the neon-blue Cookie Monster Ice Cream, unicorn-themed cones and an aÇai bowl served in a pineapple. 54 Waiānuenue Ave.

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

Rainbow Falls and ‘Akaka Falls Hilo boasts two—yes, two!—popular waterfalls, both of which can be reached without any hiking gear. Waiānuenue, aka Rainbow Falls, is located in Wailuku River State Park, a short drive from Downtown Hilo. You can see this 80-foot waterfall from the lookout adjacent to the parking lot, and on sunny mornings, rainbows can be seen in the cascade’s mist, hence the name. (There’s a great view of the falls from nearby O.K. Farms, which offers a tour to its private overlook.) About 14 miles north of Hilo, along the Hāmākua Coast, is another, more impressive waterfall. ‘Akaka Falls, located in ‘Akaka Falls State Park, is the island’s tallest cascade, plunging 442 feet. It’s a short walk to view it and the 100-foot Kahūnā Falls. Both state parks require entry fees for nonresidents.

H AWA I ‘ I I S L A N D

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Rainbow Falls

Puna Chocolate Co. Since 2012, Puna Chocolate Co. has planted more than 25,000 cacao trees across 50 acres in Pāhoa, producing chocolate made exclusively from Hawai‘i-grown beans. While its farm, which is open for tours, is in Kona, you can visit Puna Chocolate’s retail shop in Hilo to try one of its cocoa drinks. (The frozen hot chocolate is a must.) The company’s Hilo cacao orchard, which is a private-resident farm, is expected to reopen in 2023. 277 Keawe St., (808) 489-9899, punachocolate.com

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BigIslandCandies.com 1-800-935-5510 585 Hinano Street (Hilo Flagship Store and Factory) or at Ala Moana Center, Street Level 1, Center Court

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Meet the Makers

In Hawai‘i, we always try to support local. Whether we’re buying produce from the nearby farmers markets or shopping at the mom-and-pop boutique down the street, it means a lot for us to give back to our Island economy. So check out some of these Hawai‘i makers who have started their own businesses from scratch and make products that perfectly encapsulate everything we love about the Islands. Written By Kevin Allen & Julie Stanley | Photography by Aaron K. Yoshino

Meet the Makers

Many Hands Started by eco-conservationist Danya Weber, Laulima brings the native flora and fauna of Hawai‘i right into your home. By Kevin Allen

Danya Weber started Laulima in 2017.

AULIMA. In ‘olelo Hawai‘i (Hawaiian language) it literally means “many hands.” Figuratively, it denotes that change requires the joint action and support of a community of individuals. And Danya Weber, founder of the fashion and home goods brand Laulima, is educating people about the many endangered native plants and animals in Hawai‘i in hopes that together, they can bring change. “Laulima is a mission to connect the people of Hawai‘i with the native flora and animals who have been here well before us and that we now share our home with,” Weber says. The local business that she started in 2017 sells apparel for men and women that feature designs of endangered flora and fauna, created by local artists. The designs also appear on household products—pillows, throw blankets and more—as well as on pins, patches and stickers. Prior to her entrepreneurial journey, Weber interned with the Kaua‘i Forest Bird Recovery Project. It was here, she says, that she became enamored with Hawai‘i’s native ecosystem. Working in remote areas untouched by human development, where native species flourish, she saw it as beautiful, unique and special. But when Weber tried to communicate what she was experiencing with her friends and family, she noticed a disconnect. “They just didn’t really understand what I was trying to say; they just had no concept of what a native forest is, what a native bird is,” says Weber. “And so I realized that using artwork and social media was a great way to inform people about native species.” It was a local art show that gave Weber the final push to start her business. During the show, O‘ahu and Kaua‘i artists shared their ideas on conservation and endangered species through art. “There was a really good turnout with the public; I had family come and there was just like awesome support for the whole thing,” says Weber. “So I was 34

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

5 Items We Love from Laulima

1. Hawaiian HappyFace Spider Tee Coming in a striking shade of yellow, this tee features the surprisingly adorable arachnid endemic to Hawai‘i. $38

like, OK, it’s not just us conservationists who are interested in this. People would be interested, but they just don’t know about native birds and native plants. So if we like bring it to the forefront and share them with the public we can definitely get people interested in wanting to protect them like we do.” Thus, Laulima was born. It started small, with pins, stickers and field guides. Weber produced almost all of the art and designs for her products for the first three years; now, about 50% of the art featured on Laulima’s impressive array of products are collaborations with an eclectic mix of local creators, including self-taught digital artist Keanu Wilson; tattoo artist Kai Smart; and independent ornithologist, illustrator, author and musician H. Douglass Pratt. While her products have expanded and the art has become more diversified, the mission of Laulima has stayed the same since 2017. Ten percent of all profits made by Laulima are donated to a handful of conservation organizations, including the Maui Forest Bird Recovery Project, the Three Mountain Alliance on Hawai‘i Island and the Kaua‘i Forest Bird Recovery Project—as well as more than a dozen other nonprofits. And new species of endangered plants and animals are being introduced to the Laulima line of products, sometimes at a moment’s notice. “As a business owner, I’m not great at planning what animal or plant to feature next,” says Weber. “When it comes to designs, it’s very spur of the moment and related to what’s happening with the local conservation climate. For example, if there’s a bird species in particular that might go extinct soon, we focus on those birds and make products that raise awareness about them. It’s very organic, and I follow my gut.” And it’s comforting to know that, whether you’re getting a Theridion grallator (aka the Hawaiian happy-face spider) shirt, an ‘i‘iwi (scarlet honey-

Laulima's products are inspired by Hawai‘i's native flora and fauna.

creeper) plush keychain, or something else entirely, your item was likely produced in the Islands. While not all Laulima products are made locally, most are—and the business uses Hawai‘i screen printers and embroiderers for its alohawear and home and living products. Instead of being on the ground floor of nature conservancy, like she was with the Kaua‘i Forest Bird Recovery Project, Weber says she sees herself now as more of a conservation facilitator. And with such a broad audience at Laulima, she’s put herself in a position where she can inspire others to make change. “I would just love for native plants and animals to be reestablished in modern culture because they’ve been so forgotten about. They’ve been lost to time, development and modernization,” says Weber. “So I would love to bring them back into our everyday lives, through our shirts and pillowcases and products. And that doesn’t mean that we’ll get to the point where they’re living in our backyards, but at least we collectively can understand that they were once here where we were.”

To learn more about Laulima and pick something up for yourself, visit laulima.store.

2. Flowers of Hawai‘i Field Guide The perfect read for anyone who loves Hawaiian flora, this dandy little booklet features information and illustrations on over 60 native plants. $12

3. Hawaiian Flowers Woven Blanket This gorgeous blanket features a collection of Hawaiian flowers and is perfect for your couch and right at home on the grass as a picnic platform. $145

4. Kāhuli Pin Show your support for the endangered Ka‘ala subrutila snail, which is only found on Ka‘ala, the highest mountain on O‘ahu. $12

5. ‘I‘iwi Plush Keychain This plush keychain is too cute, and features an adorable version of the ‘i‘iwi (scarlet honeycreeper). The bird lover in your life will love it as a gift. $22 FALL 2 0 23

Meet the Makers

All Aloha Local designers weave ‘ōlelo Hawai‘i and native plants into their clothing line. By Julie Stanley

Much of Kealopiko's products are made in their workshop on Moloka‘i.

INCE THE FOUNDING of their company in 2006, Ane Bakutis, Hina Kneubuhl and Jamie Makasobe—all of Native Hawaiian descent—have sought to reconnect people with the cultural and ecological history and values of Hawai‘i. Initially conceived from a desire to see native plants on clothing, they quickly realized a larger vision for their company beyond fashion. “One of the reasons for starting Kealopiko was to highlight things that are uniquely Hawaiian,” says Kneubuhl. “Clothing is just a way, a space, a vehicle to tell stories. To tell the stories of our kūpuna [ancestors].” Many of the vibrant tropical plants that adorn aloha wear and are typically associated with Hawai‘i are not actually native. Bakutis and Kneubuhl, both of whom hold degrees in botany and have worked in rare plant management and recovery, wished to

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5 Items We Love from Kealopiko

1. Ke Kapa o ke Ao Buttondown Dress An ode to Haumeakuohanuiākea, an akua (god), this breezy buttondown dress’s intricate pattern pays homage to Hawaiian mythology and looks wonderful. $130

Kealopiko's design focus always looks to incorporate native concepts in addition to plants.

reconnect people with native plants and stories through their clothing. Kealopiko’s design process purposefully incorporates native concepts in addition to plants. Each year the designs they produce align with the Hawaiian seasons of kau (summer) and ho‘oilo (winter). Patterns are chosen around plants and animals that are flowering, fruiting, or reproducing during the corresponding season, and even the color palettes reflect the seasonal environment. Every design is intentional and has a story on their website in both English and ‘Ōlelo Hawai‘i. “For the last 130 years since the overthrow and ensuing occupation, Hawaiians have not only been dispossessed of ‘āina [land] but also of ‘ike [knowledge] Hawai‘i—of knowledge, of our history, stories, our language, all of those things. So the other strand for us is about reconnecting to that ‘ike through

storytelling,” says Kneubuhl who is largely responsible for the cultural research and translating portion of the business. While Bakutis and Makasobe work on drafts of art and design, Kneubuhl works on research and story. When writing these stories Kneubuhl, who holds a second degree in Hawaiian Studies and Language, draws inspiration from a variety of sources including Hawaiian language newspapers. Each article of clothing has a tag which identifies the Hawaiian word or phrase that corresponds with the artwork. Consumers can then reference Kealopiko’s design library on their website to access the commentary. Kealopiko is not only interested in conservation of ‘ike and ‘āina, they also believe it is their kuleana (responsibility/privilege) to give back to the community. One way of doing this is by providing meaningful jobs on the islands. Kneubehl says “we constantly reinvest what we make back into the business. We've been trying to grow the capacity to make more stuff here, instead of sending work and jobs overseas to somewhere else we want to nurture our local economy.” That venture started in 2009 with the opening of their Moloka‘i workshop which was a simple 625-square-foot space attached to Bakutis’s home. After multiple expansions, their current facility on Moloka‘i opened in 2017 and employs six local women managed and mentored personally by Bakutis. While Kealopiko does outsource a portion of their manufacturing to California, its “All Aloha” line is handmade in its workshop on Moloka‘i. Both locations use high quality fabrics and water based dyes, and all of Kealopiko’s products are free of plastisols in an effort to lessen environmental impact. Part of its dedication to conservation is obvious in their zero waste policy. Not a single scrap or offcut of fabric goes to landfills, rather they are repurposed for things like bag linings, pillow sections and filling stuffed animals. Kneubuhl explains that “our kūpuna had a way of living with the natural world that we really need to connect to today as people. It’s really about reconnection for us.” From conservation to mo‘olelo (story), Kealopiko is authentically indigenous. Deeply inspired by Hawaiian history and nature, both their designs and business practices seek to expand public knowledge of Hawaiian ‘ike and ‘āina.

To learn more about Kealopiko and pick something up for yourself, visit thekealopikoshop.com. 312B Monsarrat Avenue, Honolulu, (808) 784-0033. The store is open from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday and 12 to 5 p.m. Sundays.

2. Pua Hau Pareu Made with 100% organic cotton this pareu is the perfect accessory to bring with you to the beach—and its floral print features the pua hau, or the flower of the hau tree. $48

3. ‘Ulu Kāne Shorts Old-school shorts tested and approved by local uncles, free your knees and keep your hands free—these babies come with two sidepockets and a back pocket—with the ‘Ulu Kāne Shorts. $65

4. Pua Aloalo Bralette ($50) Beautiful aloalo (hibiscus) leaves adorn this too-cute bralette, which features adjustable straps, full coverage and is made of a soft poly-cotton blend. $50

5. Kāne ‘Awa Aloha Shirt Every kāne (man) needs a good aloha shirt, and Kāne ‘Awa Aloha Shirt designed and manufactured by Kealopiko is the perfect choice. $105

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Meet the Makers

The Aroma of Aloha Napua‘ala has captured the scents of Hawai‘i with its array of perfumes and skincare products. By Julie Stanley “

OR ME IT’S ALL ABOUT THE SCENTS,” says Lori Silva, founder of Napua‘ala. Since the official launch of her company in 2002 she has expanded from a single line of pīkake products to six scents available in a variety of forms such as soaps, lotions and body scrubs. Silva strives to create her products with authenticity and purpose. Each one of her scents has a personal meaning and memory behind it; from the white ginger she handpicked to make lei for her high school boyfriend (now husband), to the windswept gardenia fragrance that filled her grandmother’s home, to making her first plumeria lei at 6 years old. “I want other people to have the same reaction, it reminds them of something,” says Silva. Originally a licensed cosmetologist by trade, Silva attended Honolulu Community College in 1982 where a semester of chemistry was part of the program. The class was geared towards cosmetology with an emphasis on making products from scratch. “It totally sparked my interest, being that I didn’t realize you could do something like that.” The class laid the groundwork for one day creating her own products, but Silva wouldn’t revisit the idea until years later. After gaining her degree and starting a family, Silva and her husband were relocated to Utah in 1990. During her seven years on the mainland she found herself searching for lotions and products to remind her of home but quickly realized that nothing could genuinely capture the true essence of her favorite scents. It was then that she decided to make her own, starting with pīkake. “I always wanted to make something, but now I needed to make something with a purpose,” says Silva. “I wanted it to smell like pīkake, not what somebody thinks pīkake is supposed to smell like.” After moving back to Hawai‘i in 1997, it took five years for Silva to develop her pīkake scent, all while

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still working as a cosmetologist. Over the years Napua‘ala has grown from a single scented line to much more. Each product is still small batch and hand made by Silva herself— who also uses locally sourced ingredients as much as possible. Her slogan “handmade in Hawai‘i by a Hawaiian” represents not just where the product comes from, but also her heritage and love of her community. Although she doesn’t have an official team, she says she enlists the help of her family frequently. As Silva says, “I’ve always been surrounded by other people, it’s kind of been an amazing ride really.” From bottling, labeling, and even promoting, her family and friends have helped her every step of the way. Silva has not only spent over 20 years developing her product line, but also growing her business by attending craft fairs and markets throughout Hawai‘i. Starting with smaller local fairs and farmers markets, she eventually moved on to be involved in larger exhibitions such as Made In Hawai‘i Festival and Merrie Monarch Festival.

5 Items We Love from Napua‘ala

1. Lokelani Body Lotion Featuring hints of rose, this nongreasy lotion will leave you feeling soft and moisturized, and is made with ingredients your skin will love, like aloe, shea butter, jojoba oil and vitamin E. $10-$16

Lori Silva hard at work on her Hawai‘iinspired scents.

While the scents and products themselves are Silva’s main passion, she says that at first she struggled with the logistics of running a business. She ultimately took the steps to become certified through the Enterprising Women of Color Business Center, and continues to seek out ways to improve her knowledge of entrepreneurship. She now spends time mentoring others when she can, saying that it keeps her grounded and reminds her of where she came from. “[There’s] a lot of people that helped me, a lot of organizations, family, friends. We’re not alone… I believe everybody has an opportunity and there’s room for everybody to be successful.” After retiring from cosmetology just two years ago Silva continues to expand Napua‘ala, most recently with a move to distribute in Japan. While she has big plans for the future, she always tries to stay as close to her culture as possible and to remember how far she’s come. For Silva, “it all started with a bar of soap.” To learn more about Napua‘ala and pick something up for yourself, visit napuaala.com.

2. Pikake Body Mist Locals love the pīkake (jasmine) body mist. Made up of floral scents mixed with soft spices, you can use this mist to make any room smell fresh or apply it onto yourself for a fragrant scent. $10-$16

3. Plumeria Perfume Bamboo Roll-On Melia (plumeria) are synonymous with Hawai‘i, so why wouldn’t you want to smell like one? This perfume-grade roll-on will have you smelling like plumeria in no time, and lasts longer than a spray-on perfume. $20

4. Tama Toa Shaving Kit Created using one of Silva’s favorite colognes from the 1980s, this shaving soap includes notes of sandalwood, cypress, bergamot, verbena and pīkake. $25

5. White Ginger Sugar Scrub Enjoy the soft, gentle aroma of white ginger, or ‘awapuhi as you soften your skin clean using this easy-to-apply sugar scrub. $25

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Meet the Makers

Encore! Hana Hou Hilo, originally established as a Hawaiiana antiques and collectibles store, has transformed itself into a modern-day curator of locally made goods. By Kevin Allen

ANA HOU HILO BUSTLES with energy. Once an antiques and collectibles store focused on Hawaiiana and Oceania art and accessories, the boutique in sleepy Hilo town now sells an assortment of locally made goods, curated jewelry and apparel, as well as zero-waste, sustainably made products. And it all started with a wahine (woman) and her love for vintage apparel. “I loved collecting from the ’30s, ’40s and from the early 1900s,” says Michele Zane-Faridi, the original owner and founder of Hana Hou Hilo on the corner of Kalākaua Street and Kamehameha Avenue. After finding an appreciation for the quality and styles of yesteryear—she says she used to wear ’40s attire and vintage mu‘umu‘u to high school in the 1950s—Zane-Faridi began amassing a collection of vintage clothing, fabrics, prints and collectibles. “I was very fortunate that when people were throwing away a lot of their grandma’s things or their mom’s things … they would say, ‘Oh, no one’s going to wear this, this is too old stuff.” After selling her finds to individuals and businesses around town—there were no high speed online marketplaces yet—Zane-Faridi’s entrepreneurial spirit led her to open Hana Hou Hilo in 1993. Originally selling goodies and treasures she’d gathered over decades, the ‘ōlelo Hawai‘i used in the name of the store—hana hou, to do again—perfectly encapsulated the mission of the business, which was to give these treasures a second life. From Ni‘ihau shell lei to vintage mu‘umu‘u, Zane-Faridi had it all, and for fans of vintage Hawaiiana, Hana Hou Hilo was a paradise in paradise. It’s not just the products that were sold at Hana Hou Hilo that were given a second chance, however. The store itself experienced a bit of a revival when Zane-Faridi’s daughter, Shadi Faridi, stepped in to help run the store. “I grew up in the store,” says Faridi. “It was like my A-plus program growing up. But in my adult life, I came back to it and wanted to kind of reinvent Hana Hou Hilo and revamp it into the more modern kind of thing that it is now.” Faridi, who had been running her own store that focused on sustainably made products, decided with her mom

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Michele Zane-Faridi is a master lau hala weaver, and started Hana Hou Hilo in 1993.

5 Items We Love from Hana Hou Hilo

1. Lauhala Pāpale You’ll be hard pressed to find a better made lau hala pāpale (lau hala hat) than the ones sold here. Prices vary

to merge the two concepts into an entirely new and thriving storefront. While change is sometimes scary and unwelcome, Hana Hou Hilo’s second era serves as a gentle reminder that a rising tide lifts all boats. Now the store carries a diverse stock of made-in-Hawai‘i goods, from Hilo-made dish soap to Mālie Organics skin care products, handcarved pīkake bead necklaces and kalo (taro) print keiki (kids) rompers. And everything is carefully curated by Faridi, who emphasizes displays of locally made, zero-waste sustainable products. “I think it’s valuable. I think that finding something that your neighbor has made—it’s like eating local but with actual tangible goods,” says Faridi. “And I think that it’s the most valuable thing you can do on a day-to-day basis. It’s making direct change on a local economical level that also affects your environment.” Of course, Faridi’s mom’s antiques and collectibles are also interspersed throughout the store, and Zane-Faridi even uses some of the fabrics and patterns she’s collected over the years to make one-of-a-kind pieces of apparel for limited release. Of course, you can’t talk about Hana Hou Hilo without also mentioning the store’s world-class selection of lau hala hats and goods. (Lau hala is a traditional Hawaiian method of weaving using the leaves of the hala tree.) Expertly crafted lau hala goods are hard to come by due to the effort and experience it takes to make them. Fortunately, Zane-Faridi is an expert lau hala weaver: She’s pursued the craft for nearly 40 years, having been taught by many of the great weavers of her time. Now, she’s become part of the next generation of kumu (teachers), with a handful of students under her wing. For many, lau hala hats crafted by Zane-Faridi become family heirlooms. They go for a couple of hundred dollars to a couple of thousand each. “It’s such an important and integral part of our culture, the Hawaiian culture,” says Zane-Faridi. “For me, being able to bring an awareness and appreciation to this art form, and to help it continue, it’s such a wonderful privilege that has been passed down to me by my kumu, my teachers. And for me

Daughter Shadi Faridi stands next to her mom in the store they now both co-manage.

to share that knowledge, it’s truly a gift.” As the name implies, business for Hana Hou Hilo is like an endless encore. Mother and daughter continue to operate the store in tandem, though Faridi is taking over more responsibilities as her mother continues to learn, teach and grow as a master lau hala weaver. “Since my daughter’s in charge now, she’s seeing where it’s going, and I’m very happy with her input and success,” says Zane-Faridi. “And it’s nice because those old mom and pop things don’t exist so often nowadays because most of the kids, they have other things they wanna do. But I’m very proud that she wants to carry on the torch, and so I’m really happy to see where she’s going to take it.”

To learn more about Hana Hou Hilo and pick something up for yourself, visit hanahouhilo.com. 160 Kamehameha Ave., Hilo, (808) 935-4555. The store is open from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Mondays through Saturdays.

2. ‘Ōhi‘a Cottage Liliko‘i Syrup Liliko‘i (passion fruit) is a taste synonymous with Hawai‘i, and ‘Ōhi‘a Cottage makes its own sweet liliko‘i syrup right on Hawai‘i Island. $14

3. Vintage Hawaiian Patchwork Quilt A Hawaiian patchwork quilt is an item that will stay in your home— and maybe your kid’s home— forever. You’ll never want to let go of the quilts sold at Hana Hou Hilo, which are made of vintage cotton fabric. $350

4. Handcarved Pīkake Bead Necklace Using wood native to Hawai‘i— koa and hau—these handcarved necklaces look fantastic and come in both single and double strands. $130-$330

5. Trolling Hook To be worn as a necklace, anklet or bracelet, these trolling hooks are made the traditional way, with sustainably sourced wood. $70

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The Kalihi Valley Instructional Bike Exchange teaches keiki bicycle mechanics and so much more.

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

photo and illustrations: courtesy of kvibe, leonardo255/istock/getty images plus via getty images, gal and addie/digitalvision vectors via getty images, photoco/istock/getty images plus via getty images, d-l-b/digitalvision vectors via getty images

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BY NATANYA FRIEDHEIM

EY The Ka L L lihi Va VA lle y

F R O M T H E VA L L E Y

“I just picked up the bike and started riding,” he says. “And I was like, oh, I’m going to try ride down the hill. Then I fell.” But Afituk was undeterred. Last April, he was one of about 30 middle and high school boys leading the Kalihi Ahupua‘a Ride, an annual bicycle tour through Kalihi, a richly diverse Honolulu neighborhood with a blighted reputation. The Kalihi Valley Instructional Bike Exchange organizes the tour. The organization, KVIBE for short, teaches neighborhood kids bicycle mechanics and advocates for bike-safe roads. At each of the tour’s five stops, Afituk and his peers share the stories of their island home. “If you are a youth from Kalihi, there is always that negative narrative,” says Rona Mangayayam, youth services program coordinator for Kōkua Kalihi Valley, KVIBE’s parent organization. “They are changing the narrative and speaking the truth of who they are.” For most of the roughly 80 cyclists on this year’s tour, the action begins just after sunrise at Honolulu Harbor. Even in the early morning, the port buzzes with activity. The hum of airplanes overhead, coming and going from the nearby airport, is matched only by the rumbling of semitrucks loaded with freight containers. Kalihi is the beating heart of Hawai‘i industry, a transit point for goods and people. But even at the port, Hawaiian culture perseveres. Nearby, paddlers launch outrigger canoes onto the turquoise ocean. Around 8 a.m., buses take cyclists and their bikes 6 miles into the mountains to a 100-acre nature preserve deep in Kalihi Valley. There, chirping birds and crickets replace the cacophony of the city. Kalihi, in Hawaiian, means “the edge”. The area’s original name, Kalihilihi-o-Laumiha, can be defined as the eyelashes of the Ha-

waiian goddess Laumiha, as well as “profound silence” or “the edge of silence,” according to Joey Miller, the nature preserve’s resident caretaker and reforestation specialist. Tour participants join hands as Miller leads them in an oli, or Hawaiian chant. Then, cyclists young and old lift their kickstands and begin the descent from the forested valley to the ocean. Kalihi Valley’s homes and churches are quiet on this Saturday morning. A man stands on his balcony with a baby in his arms, waving at the procession. Before long, the cyclists pull up to the first stop: a small warehouse and parking lot at the valley’s base that used to be a chicken farm. A mural depicting a chicken commemorates the space’s past, but the bike gears painted on the wall offer hints of its present use. This is the KVIBE bike shop, where youth refurbish donated bikes at a rate of about 400 per year.

“They are changing the narrative and speaking the truth of who they are.” - RONA MANAGAYAYAM

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photos and illustrations: aaron k. yoshino, courtesy of kvibe, leonardo255/ istock/getty images plus via getty images, photoco/istock/getty images plus via getty images, d-l-b/digitalvision vectors via getty images

AYNER AFITUK TAUGHT HIMSELF TO RIDE A BICYCLE.

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“To most of us, this is our home. This is where we struggle, find peace,” KVIBE participant Benoit Setik says to the crowd of cyclists forming a half-circle at the bike shop’s entrance. “This is where we tell our stories.” Harvey Lukas offers the crowd his poetry: “We all grew up around this place full of poverty,” he says. “We do it for the culture, use our bikes as canoes to get from place to place in today’s society.” At Sanford B. Dole Middle School, across the street from the KVIBE bike shop, 93% of students qualified for free or reduced lunch last year, according to data from the Hawai‘i Department of Education. Thirty-eight percent of students were still learning English. The median household income of $54,524 for Kalihi-Pālama, the area that makes up lower Kalihi, is the lowest among all O‘ahu neighborhoods, according to data from the City and

County of Honolulu. The state House district that covers Kalihi-Pālama has more public housing complexes than any other in HaRIGHT wai‘i. It is also home to the Riders gather state’s largest jail, the O‘ahu together Community Correctional before Center. the annual Ahupua‘a Ride. The bike tour is one of the few places disparate groups mingle: a Honolulu city councilman is on today’s ride, as are a number of well-to-do O‘ahu cyclists, and of course the KVIBE boys leading the tour, many of whom live in the area’s public housing complexes. Avid cyclist Roy Gandy woke up at 4 a.m. and drove from his home in Wai‘anae, on O‘ahu’s west coast, to join the KVIBE ride. Gandy grew up in Kalihi in the 1960s, and biking through LEFT

A mural outside of KVIBE's home base.

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his old neighborhood now, he says, “touches a sensitive spot.” “I biked as a kid all over the valley,” he says. The tour takes a serious turn as cyclists pull up to Pu‘e‘a Cemetery, where Joseph Kahahawai is buried. Kahahawai was one of five local men accused of sexually assaulting a white woman in the infamous and racially charged Massie Trial of the 1930s. The case ended in a mistrial, with the jury unable to reach a verdict. Afterward, the accuser’s husband and others kidnapped and shot Kahahawai. Those found responsible for Kahahawai’s killing were convicted and sentenced to 10 years in prison, but those sentences were quickly commuted to one hour. Cyclists stand and sit in overgrown grass among the neglected tombstones, forming a half-circle with the KVIBE boys in the middle. The tour guides take turns addressing the crowd through a megaphone, using a tree

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stump as their podium. “Joseph was a brown boy like me, a young man,” Bruce Konman tells the cyclists. “He deserved justice. This RIGHT happened years ago, and it’s Tour guides make sure still happening today.” everyone's on By midday, the white the same path. terns, or manu-o-Kū, have returned from their morning fishing trips. Now, with the sun at its zenith, the birds swoop around the kukui nut trees that line the perimeter of Lo‘i Kalo Mini-Park, the third stop on the tour. Under these trees, the cyclists find respite from the heat. “Every time I come here, it’s like I’m back at home,” KVIBE senior intern Navaron Selifis says. “I feel at ease.” Selifis recalls his time in Chuuk, where, without the distractions of Netflix and TikTok, he would spend his days LEFT

Riders moving through the valley.

photos and illustrations: courtesy of kvibe, aaron k. yoshino, leonardo255/istock/ getty images plus via getty images

F R O M T H E VA L L E Y

fishing and climbing coconut trees. He’s one of many KVIBE participants who’ve emigrated from the islands of the Federated States of Micronesia. Whereas most public parks host soccer and Little League games, Lo‘i Kalo Mini-Park—lo‘i kalo means taro patch in Hawaiian—is dotted with taro patches and other medicinal and edible plants. The bounty feeds volunteers who tend to the plants on monthly community workdays. Tucked down an alleyway, Lo‘i Kalo Mini-Park is all that remains of what was once a vast network of spring-fed taro patches in the area, known then Niuhelewai. “This place is kind of like this oasis in this concrete jungle,” Robert Silva, who stewards the park, tells the cyclists. Silva sports a green bike helmet with a sticker that reads “Kalo Kruzer.” For added sun protection, he attaches woven coconut fronds to his helmet, creating a wide-brimmed hat. “This place is the hale [house] of Haumea,” the goddess of fertility, Silva explains. The park was a place of healing, where Hawaiian chiefesses gave birth, he says, and the springs around the park flow into the large pond, then out to Kapālama Canal. During the rainy season, the springs pump so much water that Silva says he can fill a 5-gallon bucket in about five seconds. After a quick stop at Kalākaua District Park, with snacks provided by the City and County of Honolulu, bikers wind their way through the lower Kalihi neighborhood. Papaya and moringa trees grow in front of large multifamily homes and a few vintage cars sit rusting in driveways. Homes give way to factories and warehouses as cyclists make their way closer to the harbor. “This entire area was one big reef system,” says Kehaulani Kupihea, who greets cyclists near RIGHT the end of the tour. Prior to th KVIBE the 20 century, fishponds coordinator stretched across Ke‘ehi and Savelio "Nuki" Makasini. the area that is now Hono-

lulu Harbor. The ponds produced hundreds of thousands of fish every year, along with edible limu, or seaweed. Kupihea has an encyclopedic knowledge of the area’s history. The head of educational nonprofit Mauliola Ke‘ehi, she has dedicated her life to teaching others about Ke‘ehi, home to O‘ahu’s last fishing village. “We’re trying to bring back the mana [power] to our sacred places,” she says. In the tour’s final stretch, cyclists ascend the bridge to Sand Island. The slow incline is a challenge. A boy of 7, one of the smallest KVIBE members, stops under the heat of the sun to walk his bike. An older boy pulls up next to him. “Push,” the older boy says. At that, the younger one swings his leg back over his bike and begins pedaling furiously. Afituk wants people to change the way they think about the neighborhood, especially those who rarely venture here. “See the struggle, not the trouble,” he says. Find out more about KVIBE and how you can get involved at kkv.net.

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KAU KAU

A tribute to plantation days and a love letter to family, this eatery on Kaua‘i’s North Shore has expanded its multicultural palate and become a fine-dining destination while maintaining its classic local feel. B Y A L L I S O N F R A S C AT O R E

HE GATEWAY TO HANALEI TOWN and a foodie’s paradise, Post-

cards Café lives up to its motto as a place “where time stops and memories begin.” The small plantation-style diamond in the rough is just past the one-lane bridge from Princeville. Hanalei, the last town on the North Shore of Kaua‘i, is rich in history, peppered with taro patches and home to some of the most famous and breathtaking beaches in the world, all framed by lush, waterfall-streaked mountains. “I love Postcards, it just feels like old Hawai‘i,” pro surfer and local celebrity Bethany Hamilton says of her favorite restaurant on the island. Don’t be fooled by the unassuming exterior: Here you’ll find one of the best dining 48

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experiences on Kaua‘i—and a place that feels like home. Through the white wicker entryway arch are ti leaf plants, hibiscus flowers and a fragrant plumeria tree—and a surprisingly spacious outdoor dining area. On the side lānai (veranda), complete with string lights, guests can enjoy an evening under the stars. “It feels like having friends over for dinner every night,” new front-of-house manager Chelsea Bosowicz says. Inside, the high-vaulted ceilings and clean minimalist look allow guests to enjoy the atmosphere for what it is— simple and authentic. Wicker basket fixtures illuminate the tables and small pops of color from carefully placed orchids contrast against the white walls and large paned windows. The plantation-green bar and blackand-white photos on the walls complete the vintage look. The building itself has a romantic past. Built in 1864, the plantation-style structure was home to a family of Chinese immigrants who started a legacy in Hanalei. During their courting, the Chinese couple exchanged love letters from their respective homes (he on Kaua‘i, she in China,) until they came together in Hanalei. Built with love and home to a growing family, the building itself has lived many lives and is considered a historical building. At one time it was a museum, at another time a deli, and in 1995, a new family made a home there. Marti and Joe Paskal have been owners at Postcards Café for over 30 years now, and married for over 40. Now in their 80s, Joe reflects back on the life that he and Marti built together in Hanalei. And he says he has no regrets, not even the “seven years we served breakfast and never earned a penny.” It was Marti’s vintage postcard collection that sparked the name for Postcards Café, with her cards lovingly tucked under the glass tabletops in the café’s early days. “The vision was to cater to people who really love good

photos: kicka witte

Built with Love

KAU KAU Bleecker Street Old Fashioned

food,” Joe explains. A wallflower by nature, Joe found his place at the restaurant. Every night, he sits in his usual spot on the bench outside, eager to welcome customers on the way in and wish them good night as they leave, as he has for the last three decades. After the devastation of Hurricane ‘Iniki in 1992, the Paskals chose to preserve the building’s history by rebuilding an exact replica of the original. Photos from the late 1800s still hang on the walls, and the landmark anchor sits out front as a proud representation of a building that has anchored itself to Hanalei town for almost 160 years. As a restaurant that prides itself on cuisine inspired by travel, the addition of Chef Javier Melendez four years ago was a game-changer. With 18 years of experience in the industry, Melendez’s humble beginnings in Puerto Rico sparked his passion for food. Watching his grandfather cook after Mass on Sundays and learning about pastries from his grandmother launched what would be a lifelong interest in self-expression through food. After attending culinary school in San Juan, Melendez became an apprentice and started to work his way up in the industry. It

was an uphill journey riddled with hard work, deep connections, and a little bit of luck. Melendez has worked for celebrity chefs such as Nobu Matsuhisa in New York City, Alain Ducasse in Puerto Rico and most recently Jean-Georges Vongerichten here in Hawai‘i. Although a seasoned professional, Melendez says joining the Postcards ‘ohana is a privilege he doesn’t take for granted. “I learned a lot as an individual and professional from Joe,” Melendez says, “our relationship is give and take, and we’ve gotten to a place of synergy and trust.” With seasonal ingredients and complementing flavors, Melendez’s creativity thrives, but his backof-house team and endlessly supportive wife are equally important to his success. Says newcomer Bosowicz: “I feel like I inherited a really solid group of people. Because the back-of-house standard is so high, it made it easy for me to reflect that in the front-ofhouse as well.” By combining locally sourced fresh seasonal ingredients with French and Japanese techniques, Melendez has created a unique fusion of cultures and flavor profiles. In classic Postcards fashion, he pulls inspiration

Polanquito

KAU KAU Seasonal Fish Offering

Chèvre Cheesecake

from his travels to various parts of Asia as well as his affinity for Caribbean and Spanish cuisine to create an unparalleled culinary journey. Reservations are recommended, but Postcards also accepts walk-ins. Also, guests can rent out all of the place or just part of it for intimate rehearsal dinners or private parties. Coming this fall, a chef’s table will be available for reservation as well. Postcards’ quaint bar provides a number of travel-related cocktails ($15 each) such as the Bleecker Street Old Fashioned with Maker’s Mark bourbon, rosemary syrup and fresh orange juice, and the Polanquito, a playful Mexico-inspired cocktail with Don Julio Silver tequila, dry CuraÇao, guava juice, organic basil, Aleppo pepper, and ‘alaea salt. The bar is also stocked with a number of wine and beer choices to complement any meal. 50

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

The appropriately priced and portioned food selection is wide-ranging and as fresh as it is creative. It’s highly recommended to start with the crispy leek salad of cold soba noodles, Pecorino Romano, asparagus, yuzu, truffle oil and Tosazu ($21). There is enough to share, and the balance of acidity, sweetness, and texture is indescribable. The hamachi sashimi is a beautiful starter as well, with fresh and expertly presented sashimi topped with local greens, red radish and a sesame-onion ponzu ($24). New to the menu is the roasted duck breast, served with a balance of sweet berries, tangy pickled onions, crisp Brussels sprouts and a hibiscus mole ($45). The seasonal fish offering is cooked to melt-in-your-mouth perfection, with a radish melange, bok choy and scallion ginger salsa to complement the fresh catch ($36). The chèvre cheesecake is unique: Made with goat’s milk, this silky cheesecake has a butter cookie and coconut crust and is served with liliko‘i (passion fruit) gel and topped with an apple compote ($12). Postcards Café opens the mind and satisfies the soul, and the quiet nights of Hanalei remind us to slow down and appreciate the simplicity of good food, good company and the journey that brought us here. “We are the first to greet people entering town, and the last goodbye on their way out,” Melendez muses, “and there is no rush. You are home here.” Postcards Café, 5-5075 Kūhīo Highway, Hanalei, (808) 826-1191, postcardscafe.com

photos: kicka witte

Crispy Leek Salad

AlohaMade There’s something to be said about a product made or designed in Hawai‘i. From too-cute keiki (kids) clothing to chocolates featuring locally sourced cacao, there’s an essence of aloha and an undeniably local vibe attached to Hawai‘i gifts. So if you’re looking for the perfect present—from pet-friendly goods by Pawniolo Pets to natural scents by Jules + Gem Hawai‘i—for yourself or for someone who loves the Islands as much as we do, check out our annual gift guide featuring products made locally with aloha.

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HO‘OMAKA |

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18pc Holiday Voyager

Pikake 8 oz Reed Diffuser

Your island-inspired holiday flavor journey begins with our Peppermint Mocha, Gingerbread, Kona Coffee, Macadamia Blossom Honey, Liliko‘i, Guava, Coconut, Mango Ginger and Hawaiian Sea Salt Chocolates. $50

Enjoy the heavenly aroma of a pīkake lei with our Pikake Reed Diffuser. The diffuser includes six black fiber reed sticks and decorative wood top. $58

Pīkake Lei Bamboo Charcuterie Board

Diamond Plumeria Chain Link Bracelet

KOHO Chocolates

kohochocolates.com

Jules + Gem Hawai‘i

julesandgemhawaii.com

Laha‘ole

Laha‘ole's Pīkake Bamboo Charcuterie Board comes in small, medium and large sizes and is ready to assist you in all your culinary ventures—and is perfect for an eco-friendly kitchen. The small boards do not come with a handle. $20-$40 lahaoledesigns.com

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

Honolulu Jewelry Co.

Embrace the allure of Hawai‘i with our Diamond Plumeria Chain Link Bracelet—a graceful fusion of island elegance and the brilliance of diamonds. $595 honolulujewelrycompany.com

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Tea Chest Hawai‘i

Tropical Organic Tea Sampler Share relaxation and wellbeing with the Organic Tropical Tea Sampler by Hawaiian Natural Tea. Mālama ā‘ina with sustainably grown ingredients and sustainable packaging made from recycled paper and plantbased inks. Experience the warmth of Hawai‘i with every sip. $10.75.

Surf Paddle Aloha Day Tripper tote

Maui Organics Lauhala Gift Basket 8 Varieties

Waikīkī Beach Services

Your must-have, go-anywhere tote which is both water resistant and the perfect size for a day at the beach, traveling or running around town. This surf-inspired tote will have you reminiscing about your Waikīkī beach days. $72

Island Essence

A beautiful lauhala gift basket filled with lotion, candle, body butter and soap. Eight tropical varieties all made on Maui with love. $55 islandessence.com

Lappert's Hawai‘i Ice Cream & Coffee

at The Shops at Kukui‘ula

Maile's Winter Sundae Made with Lappert's Hawaii seasonal winter cookieland ice cream, Maile's Winter Sundae is the perfect treat for the holiday season! $11.95 lappertshawaii.com

waikikibeachservices.com

teachest.com

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10 .

Mana Boutique by Honolulu Cookie Co. Grandes Gems Hawai‘i

Mele Pineapple Shape Box Catch the Wave Large Collection at The Shops at Kukui‘ula

Mana's bestselling jewelry collection is crafted in 14-karat gold and diamonds— and is beautiful for everyday wear! Wave necklace ($1,450) and matching ring ($1,050), double-band ring ($3,400). manaboutiquekauai.com

Delight in our classic Pineapple Shape Box Large, now decked out for the holidays with a festive red bow. Inside, you'll discover a merry assortment of 20 buttery shortbread cookies in all 12 of our signature flavors. Perfect for gifting or indulging! Note, product available beginning 11/1, while supplies last. $28.95 honolulucookie.com

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

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Quilt Kitchen Sets

Keiki Rainbow Turtle

These quilt kitchen sets from Laha‘ole celebrate the puakenikeni and include: potholder, mitt and waffle tea towel. Also offered in pīkake and naupaka designs. Waffle Tea Towel, $15. Potholder and Mitt, $30.

Your keiki will love their new shirt, and you can add a matching mommy and me outfit—or tūtū and me and even auntie and me—for even more fun! $19.99

Laha‘ole

lahaoledesigns.com

Kai Wahine

kaiwahinedesigns.com

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Furry Kake™ Food Toppers

Hawaiian Style Pineapple Macadamia Nut Fruitcake

DIY Açai Gift Set

Sleigh Ride Box

Pawniolo Pets

Elevate your pet's meals with Pawniolo Pets Furry Kake Food Toppers, locally made in Hawai‘i using premium, Hawai‘i-grown ingredients direct from ranchers, farmers and hunters. $12-$14 pawniolopetshawaii.com

Punalu‘u Bake Shop

A delicious treat that can be enjoyed any time of year. Sun-sweetened pineapple perfectly blended with fresh island coconut and golden roasted macadamia nuts give a tropical twist to a traditional holiday favorite! $22.99 bakeshophawaii.com

Kahuku Farms

Everything you need to create your own farm-fresh açaí bowl at home. $48 Includes: Kahuku Farms Sweet Honey (8.3 oz.) Liliko'i Butter Pouch (7 oz.) Kahuku Farms Mac-Nut Crumble (4.5 oz.) Kahuku Farms Hawaiian Chocolate Nibs (2.3 oz.)

Big Island Candies This assortment from Big Island Candies features Cinnamon White Dipped Macadamia Nut Shortbread, Dark Chocolate Peppermint Brownies and other goodies that deliver good cheer. $31.50 bigislandcandies.com

kahukufarms.com

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ONE LAST LOOK

One Last Look P H O T O B Y D AV I D C R O X F O R D

OU’LL BE HARD-PRESSED to find a sight more marvelous and

thunderous than a breaching North Pacific humpback whale. Frequent visitors to the waters around Hawai‘i—especially during the months from November through April when they breed, calve and raise their young in the warm Hawai‘i waters—these gentle giants have been coming to the Islands for hundreds of years, and are known as koholā in ‘ōlelo Hawai‘i (the Hawaiian language). Whether you’re starboard on a whale-watching tour or on the shore looking out towards the horizon, it’s always a treat to see signs of life from these majestic creatures.

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

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LIKE A LOCAL

Mauka to Makai FYI: Locals don’t use compass directions. B Y C AT H E R I N E T O T H F O X

VERY ISLAND HAS north

photo: aaron k. yoshino

and south shores, east and west sides. But ask a local for directions to, say, the nearest ABC Store, and you won’t likely hear those cardinal directions. Instead, you may hear mauka and makai. Mauka, in ‘ōlelo Hawai‘i, means upland or toward the mountain. Makai means seaward or toward the ocean. For example, the entrance to Hanauma Bay is on the makai (or ocean) side of Kalaniana‘ole Highway. And the Honolulu Zoo is on the mauka (or mountain) side of Kalākaua Avenue. These more descriptive directions are helpful since most roads and highways across the Islands don’t run along grids; they meander, many along the coastline. To make things even more complicated, locals on O‘ahu use two additional directions: ‘ewa and Diamond Head (or Waikīkī). ‘Ewa is toward the district of ‘Ewa in Central O‘ahu, which is west of Honolulu, and Diamond Head (or Waikīkī) is toward that landmark, or east of Downtown.

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

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