Hawai‘i Magazine Fall 2024

RE DI SCOVER W E ST M AUI P.17

EXPLORE CAV E S ON H AWA I ‘I I S L A N D P. 26

H AWA I ‘I FOOD S P LU RG E S P. 29

HAWAIIMAGAZINE.COM

Hawai‘i on a Budget COST-SAVING TIPS FOR YOUR NEXT VACATION TO THE ISLANDS

PAGE 38

SPECI A L SECTI O N S

ADVENTURES IN PARADISE PAGE 44

GIFTS OF ALOHA PAGE 48

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29 Food Splurges These dining experiences in Hawai‘i should be on your bucket list.

BY SARAH BURCHAR D & CAT H E RI NE TOT H FOX

38 Hawai‘i on a Budget Cost-saving tips for your next vacation to the Islands.

BY SARAH BU RCHA R D &

photo: andrew richard hara

ASH LE Y P ROBST

Abalone chawanmushi from Na‘au FALL 2 0 24

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IN THIS ISSUE ISLAND HOPPING 12 O‘ahu: A Landmark Reopening After nearly a decade, The Crouching Lion in Ka‘a‘awa reopens with a renewed spirit and plenty of style.

BY GRACE M AE DA

17 Maui: Holoholo to West Maui A local’s guide to the best accommodations, eateries and activities from Olowalu to Kapalua.

BY ASH LE Y P ROBST

23 Kaua‘i: A Sweet Life The beloved Kaua‘i Bakery in Līhu‘e hasn’t changed much over the years, and that’s just the way the new owners like it.

BY CAT H E RI N E TOTH FOX

26 Hawai‘i Island: Under the Volcano Kula Kai Caverns’ maze of lava tubes weave science, history and adventure.

BY J E ANNE COOPER

17 DEPARTMENTS 6

7

Editor’s Page

54 Mālama

Let’s Eat!

Mālama Cultural Connections

BY CAT HE R INE TOT H FOX

BY SA R A H BU R C HA R D

Ho‘omaka 7 9 9 10

Restoring a Relic The Legend of ‘Ulu Coconut Wireless Q&A with Will Lydgate

52 Kau Kau

56 One Last Look PHOTO BY DAV ID C R OXFO RD

58 Like a Local Leave the Lava

BY CAT HE R INE TOT H FOX

For A Good Time, Dial 855-Aloha

BY SA R A H BU R C HA R D

R E D IS COV E R W E ST M AU I P.1 7

E X P LO R E C AV E S O N H AWA I‘ I IS L A N D P. 2 6

H AWA I‘ I FO O D S P LU RG E S P. 2 9

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Hawai‘i on a Budget

Wailua Falls on Maui PHOTO BY T R AV IS MO R R IN

COST-SAVING TIPS FOR YOUR NEX T VACATION TO THE ISLANDS

(@traviskeahi_photos)

PAG E 3 8

SP EC IAL SECTION S

ADVENTURES IN PARADISE PAG E 4 4

$5.99

12

ON THE COVER

GIFTS OF ALOHA PAG E 4 8

photos: aaron k. yoshino

HAWAIIMAGAZINE.COM

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Haw aio Media Group 1088 Bishop St., Ste. LL2, Honolulu, HI, 96813-3113

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CYD ROSA | Publisher cydr@hawaiimagazine.com • (808) 255-6123 CATHERINE TOTH FOX | Editor catherine@hawaiimagazine.com SARAH BURCHARD | Editorial Intern GARY SAITO | Art Director garys@hawaiimagazine.com EMILY SMITH | Digital Media Specialist emilys@hawaiimagazine.com ELROY GARCIA | Copy Editor TRACI ROSE | Account Executive tracir@hawaiimagazine.com • (808) 534-7183 LOREN MALENCHEK | Account Executive loren@hawaii.rr.com • (808) 283-7122 JADE MEDEIROS | Account Coordinator

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For Reserved Seats Call (808) 667-6060 www.oldlahainaluau.com HAWAI‘I Magazine (ISSN 0892-0990) All contents copyright © 2024. Published quarterly by aio Media Group, 1088 Bishop St., Ste. LL2, Honolulu, HI, 96813-3113. Phone: (808) 534-7520/ Fax: (808) 537-6455. POSTMASTER: Please send address changes to HAWAI‘I Magazine, 1088 Bishop St., Ste. LL2, Honolulu, HI, 96813-3113. © 2024 aio Media Group, LLC. All rights reserved. Any unauthorized copying, distribution, or adaptation is strictly prohibited and will result in liability of up to $100,000. Periodicals Postage Paid at Honolulu, Hawai‘i and at additional mailing offices. Subscription rate is $19.99 for 4 quarterly issues. Canadian and foreign surface, add $9 extra per year payable in U.S. funds. Single copy price is $5.99 U.S., $5.99 Canadian. Please allow 6-8 weeks for new subscriptions to begin. When changing address, give six weeks’ notice and address label from latest copy, as well as new address with ZIP code. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please write us at aio Media Group, 1088 Bishop St., Ste. LL2, Honolulu, HI, 96813-3113. Phone: (808) 534-7520/Fax: (808) 537-6455 or send us an e-mail to circulation@pacificbasin.net. Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs are not accepted. Please wait for a response to your query before sending materials. Reasonable care in handling manuscripts and photographs will be taken, but HAWAI‘I Magazine cannot be responsible for unsolicited materials. Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Dept., Station A, P.O. Box 54, Windsor, ON N9A 6J5; cpcreturns@wdsmail.com Printed in the U.S.A.

1251 Front Street, Lāhaina Along the ocean in Historic Lāhaina Town Join us at our sister restaurants: Aloha Mixed Plate, Star Noodle and Leoda’s Kitchen & Pie Shop

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EDITORʼS PAGE

My Favorite Food Finds Quick Kine Pickled Cucumber, Tiffany’s Maui

This super-simple pūpū is one of the restaurant’s most popular. It’s just cucumber slices, pickled and paired with a shoyu-mayo dip. Addictive! tiffanysmaui.com

Deluxe Box Lunch, DJ’s Box Lunch

The best part of traveling is the food.

O

NE OF MY FAVORITE things to

do when I travel is eat—everything. I seek out local specialties, hit up farmers markets and even check out the regional options at fast-food joints. (Did you know Hawai‘i is the only place where you can get saimin and taro- and haupia-filled pies at McDonald’s? You’re welcome.)

Trying local foods is a great way to learn more about the place you’re visiting— and that’s never truer than in the Islands, which boasts a variety of cultures and cuisines. For example, within a 10-block radius in Downtown Honolulu, you can eat birria tacos (Tlaxcalli), vegan pho (The Pig & The Lady), smash burgers (The Daley), Detroit-style pizza (Pizza Mamo), corned beef and cabbage (Murphy’s Bar & Grill), a spicy ‘ahi poke bowl (‘Ahi Lovers), bibimbap in a stone pot (O’Kim’s Korean Kitchen) and carbonara with Portuguese sausage (Fête).

You crave it? You’ll find it in Hawai‘i.

And we have some unique restaurants, 6

HAWA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

Safe travels—and happy eating,

C AT H E R I N E T O T H F O X

Email catherine@hawaiimagazine.com or find me on Instagram at @catherinetothfox.

My first stop on Kaua‘i was always Po’s Kitchen, which closed down. But in its place is DJ’s Box Lunch, which serves the same okazuya-style food that I crave: fried chicken, shrimp tempura, musubi. To avoid overthinking, just order the deluxe box lunch, which has a sampling of almost everything on the menu. djsboxlunch.org

Soft Serve, Choco le‘a

It took months for the team at this Mānoa chocolate shop to perfect Japanese-style soft serve, using Hokkaido milk powder and its own luxurious chocolate. The result: A perfectly creamy ice cream that melts in your mouth. Get the house-made chocolate syrup, too. chocolea.com

photos: catherine toth fox

Letʼs Eat!

too. You can dine by candlelight in a treehouse on Maui or clink cocktails at a speakeasy in a Waikīkī hotel. Editorial intern and local food writer Sarah Burchard and I share some of our favorite, more inventive dining experiences in the Islands. (See Page 29.)

Food is something I’ll splurge on when I’m traveling. The memory of eating fresh unagi at a counter in Tokyo—the freshwater eels are kept alive until you order them—or spreading soft cheese on a freshly baked baguette on a bench in the Jardin des Tuileries in Paris, these are my travel souvenirs.

And maybe you’re that way, too. If so, you’ll want to check out our list of ways to save money while on vacation in Hawai‘i, from seeking out happy hours to spending the day at one of the Islands’ many botanical gardens. (See Page 38.) That way, you can spend your money on more important things—like food!

HO‘OMAKA

to begin

c

photo: jonathan radke

Restoring a Relic

Nearly a century old, the Waikīkī War Memorial Natatorium on O‘ahu will soon be restored to its original glory.

B Y CATHERINE TOTH FOX

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H I S TO R Y

Diver at Natatorium

opened on a stretch of Waikīkī Beach, dedicated to the 10,000 soldiers, sailors and other volunteers from Hawai‘i who served in World War I. It featured a grand beaux arts archway leading to an ocean-water swim basin, with bleachers, bathhouses and a panoramic ocean view.

Fittingly, on opening day, Olympic gold medalist and surfing ambassador Duke Kahanamoku dove into the pool to take the first ceremonial swim. Since then celebrity swimmers like Esther Williams and Buster Crabbe have swum in the saltwater pool, and the Hawai‘i Department of Education used it for its learn-to-swim program in public elementary schools.

The Waikīkī War Memorial Natatorium is one of only a handful of ocean-water natatoriums left in the world, and the only one of its kind in the U.S. Over the years this treasured site fell into disrepair and it was eventually closed in 1979. No one seemed to agree what should happen with the natatorium, which in 1995, earned a spot on the National Trust’s list of America’s 11 Most Endangered Historic Places. Some wanted it restored; others wanted it torn down.

A century later the city is finally moving forward with plans to restore and reopen the natatorium.

“We want the natatorium to be functional again,” says Andy Sugg, Honolulu Mayor Rick Blangiardi’s chief of staff.

“There are absolutely no plans to tear it down.”

City designers are still working on the final design, which will also take into consideration potential sea level rise. The total cost of the project will be at least $30 million, to be raised by the nonprofit Friends of the Natatorium. The goal is 8

HAW A I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

to return the natatorium to its original glory—and its original purpose: honoring World War I veterans.

“If you come and look at [the natatorium] now, it’s a shot to the heart to see how a memory of service would be treated,” says Mo Radke, president of the Friends of the Natatorium who served in the U.S. Navy for 30 years. “Let’s create a place where we can remember those who served and lost and do it in a way that represents the living.”

His vision is to see the natatorium become the gathering place it once was, with families swimming in the saltwater pool, picnicking on the bleachers and watching the sunset.

“There’s nothing like this in the world,” Radke says.

To learn more visit natatorium.org.

photos: david croxford; courtesy hawaii state archives, photograph collection, pnm-289-19936

I

N 1927 A STUNNING Olympic-size saltwater pool

FOOD

| HO‘OMAKA

photos: aaron k. yoshino

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The Legend of ‘Ulu More local restaurants are serving the fruit that’s been nourishing Hawaiians for centuries

BY SARAH BURCHARD

B

BEFORE SUNRISE ONE MORNING , on Hawai‘i

Island, a man named ‘Ulu prayed to the gods for help and guidance. His son was dying and his village was starving. Later that day, ‘Ulu told his wife he would not live to see morning. “Bury my body outside near the stream,” he said. “In the morning go check to see if my prayer has been answered.”

The next morning, when the wife checked the spot where she’d buried her husband, she found a fruit tree, which she named ‘Ulu. And soon, that tree was providing so much fruit she was not only able to save her son, but end famine in her village as well.

This story of ‘ulu, or breadfruit, speaks to the fruit’s resilience.​ ​ But it’s just one of many Hawaiian legends depicting the origin of ‘ulu. The perennial crop was brought to the Islands by early Polynesian voyagers, centuries before Western contact. They used every part of the tree: the wood for building houses and making clothes, the fruit and leaves for food and medicine. ‘Ulu trees can live more than 100 years, producing 250 to 1,000 pounds of nutrient-dense fruit annually depending on their size.

The fruit is round and solid with a coarse, lime-colored exterior and can be as small as a fist or as large as a bowling ball.

When firm it can be cooked like a potato; when soft like custard, it can be used in bread dough and desserts. ​​​​The traditional cooking method is to place a whole

fruit in an ‘imu (underground oven)​, alongside other foods,​where it’s cooked slowly until tender.​The flavor is starchy, akin to a baked potato yet more vegetal, getting sweeter the riper it is.​ Several restaurants across the Islands have added ‘ulu to their menus. A staple at Magics Beach Grill on Hawai‘i Island is the Hurricane ‘Ulu appetizer; at The Beach House on Kaua‘i you can order ‘ulu ravioli; and at Mama’s Fish House on Maui, the Caesar salad with smoked ‘ahi is sprinkled with croutons made from ‘ulu. On O‘ahu you can find buttered ‘ulu at Mud Hen Water and banana-‘ulu bread at ‘Ulu & Kalo Bakery.

And Fête, also on O‘ahu, has been known to prepare ‘ulu aloo, a riff on an Indian-spiced potato dish.

Many local families have ‘ulu trees in their yards and prepare their fruit at home simply steamed, simmered in coconut milk or incorporated into soups and stews. Native Hawaiians traditionally plant an ‘ulu tree when a child is born. And, like the legend of ‘Ulu tells us, just one tree can ensure a lifetime of nourishment.

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HO‘OMAKA |

Q&A

Q&A with Will Lydgate

The owner of Kaua‘i-based Lydgate Farms shares his vision for Hawai‘i-grown chocolate, along with some of his favorite places to visit on the Garden Isle.

BY SA R A H B U RC H ARD

10

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

Q&A

T

HE STORY OF THE LYDGATES on Kaua‘i

begins in 1865 when Will Lydgate’s greatgreat-grandfather William Ludgate (later changed to Lydgate), an engineer and a millwright, came to the island to work in the plantation business. His son, John Mortimer Lydgate, Will’s great-grandfather, worked for King Kalākaua as a land surveyor, and was an assistant to Wilhelm Hillebrand, a German physician and botanist. Hillebrand brought cacao to Hawai‘i from the Philippines in the 19th century.

That cacao variety, originally from Mexico, is still grown on Kaua‘i today.

Will Lydgate was born in California and in 1999, at 16, moved to Kaua‘i, where his grandfather and father were born.

He had no idea that, in 2002—when his father started Lydgate Farms on the same property that his ancestors had lived on—he’d become a farmer. Later, in college, Lydgate earned a master’s degree in music and worked as a recording engineer and touring musician for most of his 20s and 30s. But in 2016, when his father’s health began to decline, Lydgate decided to leave his music career to support his family and the farm.

The following year the farm’s chocolate was named among the 50 best in the world at the prestigious Cacao of Excellence Awards. It won again in 2021 and 2023. Now the farm also grows vanilla and, later this year, will launch varietal-specific and vintage-dated vanilla beans and extract.

Lydgate Farms is one of the most visited attractions on Kaua‘i. On its farm tour you’ll not only taste Hawai‘i-grown chocolate—known for its tropical fruit flavor and high cocoa butter content— but also a vast variety of estate-grown tropical fruit. The farm’s retail shop is so popular that in July Lydgate opened a store and tasting room in Kapa‘a. You can also find Lydgate Farms chocolate at the Kaua‘i Chocolate & Coffee Festival on Oct. 20. The annual festival is hosted by the Hawai‘i Chocolate and Cacao Association, of which Lydgate is president.

What are three spots on Kaua‘i you always take visitors to?

North Side of Keālia to bodysurf. Bring a gallon jug of water and put it on the car so it can heat up while you’re bodysurfing and then you pour the warm water all over yourself when you get out of the water. Lydgate Park … is an incredibly safe place to swim and one of the most widely used family parks. Also, the bike path starts there—a wonderful path that runs along the east side. My great-grandfather was surveying [the] Wailua territory and he came across an old heiau (Hawaiian temple) that had been dismantled. He, along with some of the other community members, created the Kaua‘i Historical Society and they petitioned the governor to set aside the heiau of Wailua. He died in 1922 and in 1924 the board of supervisors, which is now the Kaua‘i County Council voted to name the park after him for his many efforts to the community. He also founded the first public library on the island, the YMCA, the Mokihana Club and the Kaua‘i Chamber of Commerce. He was very civic minded. And Hanalei Bay. I’m going to take you to the Hanalei Dolphin Fish Market.

We’re gonna get a half-pound of fish dip and some sushi rolls and flatbread and go to the beach, have a picnic, jump in the water and marvel in the splendor of Hanalei.

“If we can change the way 10 million people taste chocolate, it could change the entire chocolatebuying world.”

photo: mami wyckoff

Do you think Hawai‘i could ever be famous for chocolate?

We believe that Hawai‘i is a global center of excellence for cacao quality, research and education and chocolate tourism. We could be the Burgundy of cacao. People want to come here to take classes and learn. We want [the University of Hawai‘i] to have a cacao certification, we want cacao professors, we want private sector education. We want this to be a place where people come to visit chocolate farms. We think that Hawai‘i is chocolate country. Hawai‘i produces something like one ten-thousandth of the world’s cacao but has won more Cacao of Excellence Awards than any other [place].

We’re using Hawai‘i as a grassroots movement. If we can change the way 10 million people taste chocolate, it could change the entire chocolate-buying world.

| HO‘OMAKA

Where are your favorite places to eat on Kaua‘i?

I gotta go to Wailua Drive-In and get the teri burger deluxe with cheese. It’s incredible. It’s one of my favorite burgers of all time. Kenji Burger—I’m really stoked about what those guys are doing. There’s something for everybody and they have good Japanese beers. And Princeville Wine Market. That place is so well-curated and if I sound like I know what I’m talking about with wine, it’s because of my friendship with the owner, Daniel Braun. You can tell him what you want and he’ll pick it out.

There’s nothing bad in the store. Holy Grail Donuts; get the chocolate doughnuts with our chocolate. The Kōke‘e Lodge is really good. If you went there 10 to 20 years ago, it’s a whole different place now. Go again. It’s all good.

What’s unique about Kaua‘i?

We are a little further away, so culturally not conquered a bunch of times by foreign chiefs. … We’ve got the fresh water; in Hawai‘i water is wealth. Where I live there are springs everywhere. I think Kaua‘i is a place for the kind of visitor who wants something a little different, a little off the beaten path, a little more special and a little less commercialized. We really try hard to keep Old Hawai‘i alive and try not to be overrun.

You can’t build higher than a coconut tree here. … Kaua‘i has a way of keeping its character that’s really charming.

This interview was edited for clarity and length.

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A Landmark Reopening

After nearly a decade, The Crouching Lion in Ka‘a‘awa reopens with a renewed spirit and plenty of style.

STORY BY GRACE MAEDA P H OTO G R A P H Y BY A A R O N K . YO S H I N O

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O ‘A H U

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HEN I VISIT O‘AHU’S NORTH SHORE , I take

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The restaurant boasts outdoor seating with ocean views.

RD S

R

Kamehameha Highway along the Windward Coast so I can marvel at the rugged ridges of the Ko‘olau Mountains, from Kāne‘ohe to Lā‘ie.

During these short road trips, I look forward to catching glimpses of the quaint neighborhoods and small oceanfront establishments along the way, many of them operated by local families. I see a shuttered shop and speculate about the types of businesses that might have been there before, and always, when I make my way from Kualoa to Ka‘a‘awa and spot the old Crouching Lion restaurant, I can’t resist imagining the place in its heyday.

In 1952, Reginald Faithful converted his Ka‘a‘awa home into an inn and restaurant, serving up European-inspired cuisine and unobstructed views of Kahana Bay. The restaurant, which is nearly impossible to miss, is at the base of a hill known as Pu‘u Manamana and was named after the rock formation atop the ridge. For decades, it was the only sit-down restaurant for miles.

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O ‘A H U

Like many intrigued by the grand structure on Kamehameha Highway, Eddie Kim was drawn to The Crouching Lion restaurant. Kim, a former university professor, founded the Asia Pacific International School in Hau‘ula in 2015. For years, he’d pass the restaurant on his way to and from work. And he’d imagine the possibilities.

In 2022, Kim put his imagination to work and bought the shuttered restaurant with a business partner. Maintaining the integrity and spirit of the building, Kim lovingly revamped its interior, cleverly retrofitting items he bought at ReUse Hawai‘i, including a bed frame that is now suspended above the bar. He also bought a chandelier, originally worth hundreds of thousands of dollars, for just a few thousand. Kim also needed to construct a new menu, inspired by Hawai‘i and his travels in Asia and beyond.

“People told me I’d fail,” Kim recalls hearing after he purchased the restaurant. “But I truly believe that if you persevere and have courage, you can do it.” By May 2024, The Crouching Lion had reopened, welcoming diners for the first time in nearly a decade. Kim was now a restaurateur.

“With its iconic history, it’s too significant to be just a small business venture,” Kim says. “One way or another, so many people’s lives have been touched by The Crouching 14

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

Lion. I want this place to be a special place to reminisce and bring back familiar feelings.” And he says he’s excited to welcome new diners, too.

Within a month of the restaurant’s grand reopening, I scored a reservation for a late lunch, which, with the newfound busyness of the place, was a challenge. I went with friends to celebrate a birthday, an engagement and a few career achievements within the group.

My friends and I step into the restaurant that we’ve all driven by countless times, and we’re immediately captivated.

The open-air dining area is part of an expansive lānai with panoramic views of the Pacific Ocean, and the surprisingly modern interior decor exudes warmth.

While The Crouching Lion lured us with its intriguing history and unrivaled views, its culinary creations will certainly draw us back.

ABOVE “Food will lead people here,” The menu features a variety of dishes, Kim tells me. “The menu is eclectic, from rib eye steaks creative and if I didn’t love the dish, it to a bowl of pasta wouldn’t be on the menu.” filled with scallops, shrimp, lobster and Open for lunch and dinner, the mushrooms. Many of restaurant’s menu is inspired by the the dishes are small vibrant cuisine unique to Hawai‘i. and shareable.

photo: aaron k. yoshino

ISLAND HOPPING |

O ‘A H U

| ISLAND HOPPING

New owner Eddie Kim

Leaning heavily into the Islands’ Asian influences, diners can find comforting favorites from temaki and kimbap rolls to kimchi fried rice and mandu (Korean dumplings).

You can also try fresh seafood from a raw bar as well as premium meats and local vegetables seared on an outdoor robata grill.

Many of the dishes are meant to be shared at the restaurant. Hawai‘i is known for plate lunches, but also for being family-centered, Kim says. “When you go into local homes, you share everything. I wanted to create a restaurant for families and the community.”

While plenty of restaurants in the Islands are putting their own twists on modern Hawai‘i cuisine, The Crouching Lion stands out.

With an intriguing list of shareable plates, my table orders a variety of dishes to nibble on, including crispy tofu and spicy cucumbers for the vegetarians and brisket tacos and larb for the omnivores. We also order meltin-your-mouth Kahuku sweet potatoes and Hāmākua mushrooms roasted on the robata grill (robata is a Japanese-style of cooking similar to barbecue).

Similar attention is paid to Island flavors in Crouching Lion’s cocktails, with splashes of yuzu in the Mokoli‘i Yuzu Express and ube in the Kualoa Ube Brûlée as well as the restaurant’s take on Hawai‘i’s iconic mai tai.

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The Japanese-style robata grill is used to cook everything from lamb lollipops to Kahukugrown sweet potatoes.

Kualoa’s Ube Brûlée, Crouching Lion Mai Tai, Mokoli’i Yuzu Express and the Ka’a’awa Cherry Bomb.

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Lucky for us, Kim is at the restaurant this afternoon and he makes time to check in with his guests. With an infectious excitement and spirit, Kim shares with us his dedication to developing a creative menu to reinvigorate The Crouching Lion. From the robata-grilled dishes to the unique cocktails, the offerings reflect his imaginative take on Island cuisine.

And while this is Kim’s first restaurant endeavor, you’d never know it: He’s handled the business like an industry veteran, infusing it with bright character, exciting style and a renewed spirit.

Since the end of its first 60-year run, The Crouching Lion had been little more than an interesting landmark on the scenic road to the North Shore. Now it’s a destination again.

The Crouching Lion

51-666 Kamehameha Highway, Ka‘a‘awa thecrouchinglion.com Born and raised on Maui, Grace Maeda is passionate about sharing stories featuring Hawai‘i’s extraordinary places and culture while encouraging mindful and responsible travel to the Islands. Grace is a regular contributor to HAWAI‘I Magazine.

Holoholo to West Maui

A local’s guide to the best accommodations, eateries and activities from Olowalu to Kapalua.

STORY BY ASHLEY PROBST P H OTO G R A P H Y BY A A R O N K . YO S H I N O

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NE YEAR AFTER the

fire that devastated Lahaina on Aug. 8, 2023, the West Maui community is still in the process of healing and rebuilding. The unprecedented disaster left deep scars, not only in the landscape but also in the hearts of its residents. In the immediate aftermath, conflicting messages emerged regarding tourism.

Some locals urged travelers to avoid Maui altogether; others asked tourists to stay out of Lahaina specifically but to continue supporting the rest of the island’s economy.

Despite the loss of our beloved town, West Maui remains a lively area with much to offer.

The spirit of aloha is as strong as ever, and there are still numerous beautiful and inspiring places to explore. From the serene shores of Olowalu to the luxurious retreats in Kapalua, the region is rich with opportunities for adventure, relaxation and cultural experiences, whether you’re looking for budget-friendly accommodations, delectable dining options, or thrilling activities. Here, we’ve compiled some of the best places to stay, dine, and play, from a Lahaina native’s perspective.

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Nāpili Bay

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Nāpili

Olowalu

Every Wednesday and Saturday from 8 a.m. to noon, stop by the Nāpili Farmers Market for Maui-grown produce; locally made products like Hawaiian honey, organic kombucha, and baked goods; and artisanal crafts. Afterward, pick up a coffee from Island Vibes Café or enjoy brunch at The Gazebo Restaurant, which despite its always-long line, is worth the wait. Work off those morning treats at Madre Maui pilates studio or satisfy your beauty needs at Sugar Mamma Studio, both in Nāpili Plaza. For more of a thrill, explore less-traveled roads on an ATV tour with Maui Off-Road Adventures. For a healthy lunch, enjoy vegetarian and vegan dishes at A‘a Roots and, for dinner, dive into Filipino fare at Joey’s Kitchen or New American cuisine at FOND | A Neighborhood Eatery

On the drive to the West Side, you’ll find the tiny oceanfront oasis of Olowalu. Budget accommodations are available at Camp Olowalu, which offers tent and car camping, “tentalows” for glamping, cabins for large groups, beach access, and kayaking adventures. To catch up on the culture here, and get a 10% discount on their stay, guests can volunteer with Kīpuka Olowalu. Don’t miss Leoda’s Kitchen and Pie Shop, renowned for its epic sandwiches prepared with locally made bread and unforgettable pies. For adrenaline seekers, Maui Paintball offers an exhilarating challenge.

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Mala Ocean Tavern

Lahaina Although the majority of Lahaina was lost in the fire, a few pockets remain.

Take a farm or factory tour at Maui Ku‘ia Estate Chocolate. Shop local vendors at the Lahaina Arts Society Fine Arts Fair on Fridays and Saturdays or the Maui Gift & Craft Fair on Sundays. Enjoy cultural programming at the Lahaina Cannery Mall and experience an authentic lū‘au at the award-winning Old Lahaina Lū‘au. Support local eateries like Las Islitas—where the birria tacos are a must-try—and Mala Ocean Tavern, which offers oceanside brunch, happy hour with live music, dinner and late-night events on the weekend.

Las Islitas

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Kā‘anapali Beach

Honokōwai For a variety of flavors, check out the Honoapi‘ilani Food Truck Park, where you can order Thai, Mexican, Hawaiian and more. Across the street is Java Jazz for coffee, eclectic fare and live music, and Pizza Paradiso, which serves pizza and Mediterranean cuisine and hosts late-night events like karaoke on Wednesdays and Saturdays, open mic night on Thursdays, house music on Fridays, and trivia on Sundays.

Locals’ favorite eateries include Honokowai Okazuya & Deli, for mouthwatering plate lunches, and the Honokowai Farmers Market for organic produce and made-to-order vegetarian meals. This area is also home to boutique hotels and oceanfront vacation rentals, giving visitors a range of cozy and scenic lodging options.

Kā‘anapali Named the best beach in America and No. 10 in the world by Tripadvisor last year, Kā‘anapali Beach is an iconic location for water activities like swimming, surfing, snorkeling, scuba diving, skimboarding, parasailing, and boat tours. Its 3-mile stretch of powdery white sand is also home to popular hotels like the Outrigger Kā‘anapali Beach Resort and The Westin Maui Resort & Spa, Ka'anapali. After a day at the beach or by the pool, head to Whalers Village for dining at iconic restaurants like Leilani’s on the Beach and Monkeypod Kitchen by Merriman. While there, you can shop at locally owned boutiques like Keani Hawai‘i, Sea Adora Island Couture and KaiAloha Supply, and maybe even learn something new at the Hawai‘i Wildlife Discovery Center. Whalers Village also features weekly entertainment in the ‘Ohana Courtyard, team-building puzzles at Maui Escape Rooms and body art at Banyan Tree Tattoo.

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Maui Brewing Co.

Kahana This region serves as West Maui’s watering hole with hot spots like Dollies Pub and Café for hand-pressed pizzas, two happy hours, and all the sports one could watch. Experience Hawai‘i’s largest craft brew company, Maui Brewing Co., at its first west-side location; it offers brewery-to-table dining and often incorporates beer in its recipes. Complete an evening out with dinner at the Miso Phat sushi bar or grab a table at China Boat.

THE SWEETEST PINEAPPLE ON EARTH, FROM OUR ‘OHANA TO YOURS. For over 50 years, Maui Gold has produced Hawaii’s famously sweet pineapple.

Grown on the slopes of Haleakala where the days are warm and the evenings cool, Maui Gold pineapples enjoy fresh water and nutrient-rich volcanic soil. Hand-harvested to ensure they’re picked at their peak ripeness, our pineapples are prized for their superior sweetness, high levels of Vitamin C, and low acidity.

Mahalo for supporting our family-owned pineapple farm, the last of its kind on Maui!

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Kapalua For higher-end accommodations, check into a five-star resort like The Ritz-Carlton Maui, Kapalua, or Montage Kapalua Bay. Both are along the Kapalua Coastal Trail, a pleasant nearly 2-mile walk, and close to some of West Maui’s best beaches, including Kapalua Bay, D.T. Fleming Beach Park, and, for surfing and snorkeling, Honolua Bay. Stop by the Kapalua Labyrinth, the largest of its kind on Maui, at Makāluapuna Point for a peaceful walking meditation. Then enjoy a round at Kapalua Golf or soar to new heights at Kapalua Ziplines. End the day at one of Kapalua’s premier restaurants: Taverna for Italian fare, Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar for Japanese dishes, or Merriman’s Kapalua for farm-to-table cuisine.

Born and raised in Lahaina, Ashley Probst left Maui to study journalism at Chapman University and explore the world before returning to her roots. When she isn’t writing, she runs a tarot reading business and continues to travel whenever possible.

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A Sweet Life The beloved Kaua‘i Bakery in Līhu‘e hasn't changed much over the years, and that's just the way the new owners like it.

S T O R Y B Y C AT H E R I N E T O T H F O X P H OTO G R A P H Y BY M A M I W YCO F F

T

IANA SUDARIA GREW UP GOING to Kaua‘i Bak-

ery. Her favorite was always the bakery’s oversize cinnamon rolls. And every family birthday featured its guava chiffon cake.

When she and her husband, Dante, heard it might be shutting down, they weren’t having it. An institution like Kaua‘i Bakery can’t close, they said. So they bought it.

“We were just so sad” when news spread of the possible shutdown, recalls the 39-year-old mother of four.

The Sudarias took over in January 2024, becoming the bakery’s fifth owners. The original bakery—then called Kaua‘i Cinnamons—was started

by Harry Shigekane in the mid-1980s.

(Back then it was best-known for its cinnamon rolls, hence the name.) The

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fourth owner was Gracie Galiza, a pediatrician who bought the 1,058-square-foot bakery in Kukui Grove Center in 2018 and remodeled it, adding wood floors and pretty banana leaf wallpaper to create one of the most Instagrammable spots in the mall.

Not much has changed in the few months since the Sudarias took over—and that was the plan.

“We don’t have a background in baking,” says Tiana Sudaria, she works full-time at Marriott Vacations Worldwide (Sheraton Kaua‘i Resort). “This is something I’m not used to.

But [Dante] is so ambitious and he saw this as an opportunity.

We didn’t want [the bakery] to close down.”

The bakery’s bestsellers are still the malasadas, deep-fried, sugar-dusted yeast doughnuts brought to Hawai‘i by Portuguese immigrants well over a century ago. It sells, on average, about 760 malasadas a day. While the classic version—coated with white sugar—is the most popular, its filled versions rank high, too. Popular fillings include ube (a sweet, purple yam), custard and haupia (coconut). (Pro tip: Get the malasada flight, which features one of each of the 10 flavors. Because you’re on vacation.)

The bakery is also known for its manapua, chewy steamed buns filled with meat or veggies. (It’s a local take on traditional Chinese bao.) Here, these fluffy rolls are filled with ham and cheese, hot dogs, kālua pork, and pepperoni and mozzarella cheese. (Get it with a side of marinara sauce. Trust me.)

One type of manapua you won’t see anywhere else—except on Kaua‘i—is the Flying Saucer. It’s the bakery’s take on the iconic Kaua‘i saucer-shaped sandwich, which consists of a sloppy Joe-like filling and American cheese between two slices of buttered white bread that’s cooked in a sandwich iron, 24

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giving it its distinctive shape. You’d be hard-pressed to find Flying Saucers anywhere but on Kaua‘i, where they originated. And in manapua form, it’s another level of deliciousness.

The bakery also sells turnovers; bread pudding; cakes; pies; and ensaymadas, a Filipino soft pastry covered with butter and sugar.

Oh, and of course, the original cinnamon rolls, Sudaria’s favorite pastry.

LEFT “I used to stop by after work, buy a The Sudaria family: Cato cinnamon roll and keep it in my fridge Sudaria, Tiana Sudaria, Jayden Sudaria, Sesley at home, then eat it for breakfast the Sudaria, Dante Sudaria next day,” she says. and Gianna Sudaria.

Since taking over the couple has TOP RIGHT added a few new items—Filipino Lead baker Ida Leasiolagi desserts like tambo tambo (made working the dough in the kitchen. with glutinous rice balls, tapioca and sweet coconut cream) and cuchinta BOTTOM RIGHT (steamed cakes made with all-purpose The bakery is known for its malasadas. flour, tapioca flour and brown sugar

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and often topped with grated coconut), made by Dante Sudaria’s mom, Nurcy. And they’re experimenting with different fillings for the malasadas, too. When I was there, I got to sample a dobash-filled malasada—and I ate the whole thing in three bites.

It’s not easy running a bakery, especially with no prior experience, but the Sudarias are fully committed. Dante comes in regularly in the early hours—sometimes as early as 2 a.m.—to help roll and proof dough, before going to his other jobs. He’s also a banquet captain at the Grand Hyatt Kaua‘i Resort & Spa and runs an auto-tinting business. Tiana Sudaria stops by the bakery before heading to her hotel job, making sure the employees—many of whom have been working at the bakery for years—have what they need. And she comes in on Saturdays to wash dishes. Their two youngest daughters, Sesley and Gianna, are often in the front, too, filling boxes with pastries and greeting customers.

It’s a lot—raising a family of four, working multiple jobs— but the Sudarias love it.

“For me, just the reactions on people’s faces, the excitement, the satisfaction,” Tiana Sudaria says. “That’s what I love.”

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The showcase at Kaua‘i Bakery features its best sellers, including turnovers, manapua and malasadas.

Kaua‘i Bakery

3-2600 Kaumuali‘i Highway, Suite 1526, Līhu‘e (808) 320-3434, mykauaibakery.com KAUAI HAWAI'I MAG AD FEB 2024 v1 MECH.pdf

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Under the Volcano

Kula Kai Caverns' maze of lava tubes weave science, history and adventure.

STORY BY JEANNE COOPER PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROBERT CARLIN

Kula Kai Caverns’ Lighted Tour begins by descending 75 stairs into an 1,100-year-old lava tube.

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ASSING BY A SERIES OF subterranean geologi-

cal features named cave chocolate, cave bacon and cave popcorn, I start to wonder if Oompa-Loompas might also be found in Kula Kai Caverns, part of a vast underworld beneath the southwestern slopes of Mauna Loa. While I don’t end up nibbling the scenery like the kids in “Charlie & The Chocolate Factory,” I still find myself eagerly drinking in the fascinating lore of the Earth’s third-largest system of lava tubes.

Known as Kīpuka Kanohina, this complex in Ocean View, halfway between Kailua-Kona and Volcano Village in Hawai‘i 26

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Island’s rugged Ka‘ū District, includes 42 miles of lava tubes and multiple entrances. Twenty-seven miles of those tubes are ​​​​ braided, or interconnected, and all are privately owned or part of the nonprofit Cave Conservancy of Hawai‘i, which seeks to preserve them. Open to guided tours since 2002, Kula Kai Caverns offers the only way the general public can explore this labyrinth below the gated Kula Kai Estates neighborhood.

I decided to book the longest and most challenging of three expeditions after much conversation with ​​Gary Gura, the congenial office manager who also led Kula Kai tours ​​​​for eight years. The archaeological and lighted trail tours, both about an

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hour long, don’t require flashlights or any special gear besides closedtoe shoes. The two-hour tour starts by covering the same ground as the lighted trail tour, then continues for another hour or so in unlit areas, with participants donning lighted helmets, gloves and, for navigating low and rough patches, kneepads. ​​​​Gura assures me that my tall and stocky self won’t get trapped like Augustus Gloop in a pipe. “If I can do it, you can do it,” he promises.

I’m relieved when it​​turns out our tour guide for the day, Mo Hefnawy, is 6-foot-4. One of many avid cavers who live in the neighborhood, Hefnawy could even commute to work underground if he wanted to, navigating​​​​ the third of a mile between home and the caverns in 45 minutes. All tours begin inside a small hut, where visitors examine a sprawling, color-coded map of Hawai‘i Island’s millennia of lava flows and two chunks of lava rock. The lightweight one is ‘a‘ā lava, produced by fast-moving flows like the one at

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Tropical landscaping and stairs mark the entrance to Kula Kai Caverns, open only to guided tours.

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Mauna Loa in 1907 that gave the topside of Kula Kai Estates its jagged lunar landscape; the heavy one comes from slow-moving, hotter pāhoehoe lava. The latter ​​ kind of lava, Hefnawy explains, is rarer, represented in just 10% to 15% of all lava flows, and it’s the only kind that can produce lava tubes.

Kula Kai Caverns’ network of subway-sized and smaller tubes took shape some 1,100 years ago. Rain and cooling pāhoehoe causes the majority of lava tubes to collapse, but in arid Ka‘ū, the lava tube created by the first flow formed a strong ceiling that remained, and eight more flows followed below it over a five-year period.

Outside the landscaped entrance to the lava tube, nine differently colored layers of rock tell the story.

The varying hues stem from mineral composition and the passage of time, which also affect the tube’s tasty-sounding formations, ​​​​Hefnawy says. A mix of molten manganese and iron that solidifies as it drips creates ​​​​“dark or milk cave chocolate”; gypsum and iron that oxidizes for several hundred years create the streaks called cave bacon; and rivulets of seeping water lead to the little calcite and gypsum knobs known as cave popcorn. Spidery roots of ‘ōhi‘a lehua trees dangle from the ceiling in some areas. ​​​​​Hefnawy calls the layers of lava tubes “nature’s Brita filter.” As rainwater descends through the porous rock, it’s purified, he says, and Hawaiians would use gourds cradled in a circle of stones to gather it. We stop at one of several platforms to sample cool water collected in a bucket— but only after gawking at the one slightly cheesy element of the tour: a portion of the lava tube lit red to simulate active lava. I have to admit it does make a fun photo op.

Because guides customize tours to guests’ abilities and inclinations, the second part of our expedition is only moderately challenging. ​​​​I find I can stoop through some low passages, while the helmet, gloves and kneepads protect me and my TOP jeans quite nicely for Kula Kai Caverns the few feet I have to guide Mo Hefnawy points to formations crawl on my hands known as cave and knees. Lava popcorn. tubes are home to a BOTTOM few unique species The second half of of insects​​​​ and other the tour of Kula Kai small creatures—cave Caverns explores unlit lava tubes, part moths and cave spiof a 42-mile complex ders among them— known as Kīpuka but we’re far enough Kanohina.

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in that I don’t have to worry about encountering any, ​​​​Hefnawy says.

These lava tubes also show no signs of human burials, and any remnants of historic Hawaiian presence, such as torch sticks and gourd cradles, have been carefully preserved. A Mexican microbiologist recently discovered some nearly invisible treasures here: pathogen-killing microbes that host over 80 different kinds of antibodies. “And we only know what 20 of them are,” Hefnawy notes, shining an ultraviolet light that reveals a purple smear of microbes on the lava tube’s wall.

With so much more to see and learn in Kula Kai Caverns, I’m glad I don’t need to find a Golden Ticket to return.

The one-hour lighted-trail tour is $28 for ages 13 and older, $18 ages 6 to 12, free for ages 5 and younger. The two-hour tour is $95 for ages 13 and older, $​​​​65 ages 8 to 12 (not recommended for younger children.) The one-hour archaeological Tour is $34 for ages 13 and older, $18 ages 6 to 12, free for ages 5 and under. Wear closed-toe shoes and, for the two-hour tour, long pants.

92-8864 Lauhala Drive, Ocean View, Hawai‘i Island, (808) 929-9725, kulakaicaverns.com

Travel writer and guidebook author Jeanne Cooper enjoys living above the ground in Hawai‘i Island's North Kohala district.

Food Splurges These dining experiences in Hawai‘i should be on your bucket list.

photo: courtesy hotel wailea

By Sarah Burchard & Catherine Toth Fox If you’re like us, you love to eat—and you don’t always put a price tag on that experience. So we put together some of the most splurge-worthy dining experiences you can have in the Islands, from a candlelight dinner in a treehouse to breakfast on the rim of an active volcano. Every spot is Instagram perfect—and the food is incredible, too.

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The Treehouse at Hotel Wailea on Maui is a truly unique dining experience.

The Treehouse at Hotel Wailea Maui

IMAGINE DINING UNDER a canopy of mango and avocado trees in a real-life treehouse with stunning views of the Pacific Ocean. This ultra-exclusive experience is offered at the adults-only Hotel Wailea on Maui—and it’s one of the most sought-after reservations on the island. While there’s no set menu, you can customize the private, seven-course dinner with the hotel chef who curates each dish to your preferences and prepares them tableside. You also have access to the hotel’s private wine cellar with expert pairings for each course. It’s pricey—$1,400 per couple (up to six guests) and another $250 per person for wine pairings—but the experience is priceless.—CTF

The seven-course dinner in The Treehouse is customized for each guest.

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The seven-course dinner in The Treehouse is customized for each guest. Right: The Treehouse at Hotel Wailea on Maui is a truly unique dining experience.

photos: courtesy hotel wailea

hotelwailea.com/dining/the-treehouse

The Rim at Volcano House Hawai‘i Island

photo: janice wei

The view from The Rim at Volcano House.

IN 2022 KILAUEA resumed erupting after a fourmonth pause, and I quickly booked tickets to Hilo for me, the husband and our then-5-year-old son. It’s not every day you can see an erupting volcano, and I wanted to take full advantage of our proximity to it. We basked in the orange glow of lava from our vantage point at Keanakāko‘i; the view was great and we didn’t have to trek for miles to get it. The Rim at the historic Volcano House is perched above Halema‘uma‘u Crater, where we dined on lobster crabcake, seared Kona kampachi and a 14-ounce

Hawai‘i-raised rib-eye with wild Hāmākua mushrooms— all while gawking at the glow from the lava in the crater right outside. The building, which dates back to 1941 and has only 33 guest rooms, is built directly on the volcano within Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park. Kīlauea started erupting again on Sept. 15 in an area where you can’t view it—right now, anyway. If it continues to erupt, you now know where to book the best seats on the island.—CTF

hawaiivolcanohouse.com/dining

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Na‘au Hawai‘i Island ‘OPAE , KUPE‘E , ‘OHELO

naauhilo.com, @naauhilo

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Hawaiian kampachi sashimi

Big Island wild mushroom risotto

Lomi ‘ō‘io, limu ‘ele‘ele chip and Hawaiian chili tomato water shooter

photos: andrew richard hara

BERRIES. These are not your typical ingredients—even in the Islands. But you’ll see them on the menu at Na‘au, a dining concept by local chef Brian Hirata.

Only a handful of seats are available each week at Na‘au’s pop-up dinners on Fridays and Saturdays at the secluded Whitehaven Farm in Pepe‘ekeo. On white cloth-covered tables on the farm’s lānai, you’ll be treated to dishes composed of what Hirata has carefully and responsibly fished, foraged, hunted and prepared himself, like ‘ahi swim bladder (a fish organ delicacy) with chili crisp and lemon; slippery Jack mushroom risotto with gouda from Hawai‘i Island Goat Dairy; and Big Island beef lū‘au with stewed kalo (taro) leaves, locally sourced bread and nori butter. Take it from a former culinary instructor: This meal not only connects us to Hawai‘i’s cultural roots and food traditions, it’s also the only way to access Hirata’s profound knowledge about cooking and eating in the Islands.—SB

Welina Terrace Kaua‘i

Eat in a James Beard Award-Winning Restaurant From fine dining and signature dishes to humble saimin and a go-to spot for Hawaiian food, your options abound.

Fête, O‘ahu It’s all in the name. Fête, or celebration in French, is where you go in Honolulu when you want to be festive, feel taken care of and enjoy all of the elements of a fine dining experience in a casual, fun and unpretentious setting. Last year chef and co-owner Robynne Maii was the first Native Hawaiian woman to win a James Beard Award—and the first Hawai‘i winner in 19 years. Her menu showcases local ingredients and flavors, from a twice-fried J. Ludovico Farm chicken to crispy shrimp grown at Kualoa Ranch on O‘ahu. fetehawaii.com, @fetehawaii

Roy’s Hawai‘i O‘ahu, Maui, Hawai‘i Island Macadamia nut-crusted mahimahi, blackened ‘ahi, misoyaki butterfish—these are some of chef Roy Yamaguchi’s signature dishes. As one of the founders of the Hawai‘i Regional Cuisine movement, he highlights locally sourced ingredients with Asian and local flavors. royyamaguchi.com, @royshawaii

Hamura Saimin Stand, Kaua‘i Saimin, which combines various cuisines from the plantation era, is the classic ramenlike soup born in Hawai‘i. It is a simple bowl of broth made with chicken, pork, dashi and dried shrimp with noodles, scallion, fish cake, char siu (pork) and hard-cooked egg. And Hamura Saimin on Kaua‘i does it right. Locals love this institution for its nostalgic flavors, affordable prices and cozy wraparound counter. hamura-saimin.res-menu.com

photos: mikkel vang

THERE’S NO BETTER PLACE to sip cocktails at sunset than Welina Terrace. Perched on the cliffs overlooking Hanalei Bay, this spacious lānai at the luxe 1 Hotel Hanalei Bay boasts panoramic views and a small-but-robust menu with upscale bites like truffle hamachi rolls, wagyu tataki and Brussels sprouts topped with yuzu-miso dressing. Best to dine on Thursdays, Fridays or Saturdays, when local bands play from 6 to 9 p.m. And make sure to nab a table on the lānai, so you can enjoy the breathtaking views of Mount Makana and Hanalei Bay.—CTF

1hotels.com/hanalei-bay/taste/welina-terrace, @welinaterrace

Helena’s Hawaiian Food, O‘ahu No trip to O‘ahu is complete without a meal at Helena’s. A pillar of the community, Helena’s is beloved for its Hawaiian staples, such as pipi kaula (short ribs), squid lū‘au (stewed taro leaves) and fried butterfish collars. Located in the heart of Kalihi, this should be on every foodie’s radar. helenashawaiianfood.com, @helenashawaiianfood

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Food Splurges

Sushi Sho O‘ahu

LIKE A SPEAKEASY, you’ll find Sushi Sho— one of Honolulu’s most acclaimed sushi bars— behind an unassuming door at the far end of a (separately owned) restaurant on the seventh floor of the Ritz-Carlton Residences in Waikīkī.

Inside, across a dark room, a spotlight illuminates a man wielding a samurai-sized sushi knife one minute, and sculpting warm rice and glistening fish into bite-sized nigiri the next. In front of a glimmering gold backdrop, master sushi chef Keiji Nakazawa presents a 27-course omakase (dishes selected by the chef ) menu. Key to everything is his respect for both Hawaiian culture and 200-year-old sushi traditions, such as curing,

ritzcarlton.com/en/hotels/hnlrr-the-ritzcarlton-residences-waikiki-beach/dining, @sushishohawaii

Inside the 10-seat restaurant.

photos: courtesy the ritz-carlton residences, waikīkī beach

Sushi Sho’s innovative poke done three ways, with onaga, ‘ahi and Alaska salmon.

pickling and aging fish as compared to serving it raw. For his lau lau (a traditional Hawaiian dish), instead of pork he steams Copper River salmon and local opah cheek, wrapped in taro leaves and serves it with a tosazu gelée made with ‘ahi dashi vinegar and yuzu kosho (salted yuzu peel and chile paste). Sake pairings, chosen by Nakazawa, are available to add to your meal. Reservations for the 10-seat sushi bar are coveted, but diners can now make them online.—SB

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Get your hot bread filled with strawberry cream cheese, mango cream or ube cheesecake.

Kanemitsu Bakery Moloka‘i

photos: aaron k. yoshino

Order fresh-out-of-theoven bread from this window down an alley.

WHEN I WAS A KID, my family booked a weekend stay on Moloka‘i. The only memory I have from the trip was our middle-of-thenight visit to Kanemitsu Bakery in Kaunakakai.

We walked down a dark alley and knocked on a wooden door. Someone came out, took our order and returned with the softest, warmest bread I have ever eaten, filled with generous slabs of butter, sugar and cream cheese. I was in heaven. The bakery still sells its hot bread out of the alley at night—there’s a window now with a handwritten menu—though you can also buy the pillowy loaves from the restaurant during regular business hours. And you can’t beat its fresh-outof-the-oven loaves, split in half and slathered in your choice of fillings, including cream cheese, fruit jams, ube and cinnamon. Go early; the bakery does sell out.—CTF

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Food Splurges

Co-owner and acclaimed bartender Justin Park uses kiawe wood to add a smoky element to some of his cocktails.

Tavern Keep’s Treasure, a whiskey cocktail smoked in a glass bell.

Bar Leather Apron BAR LEATHER APRON, owned by internationally acclaimed bartender Justin Park and local entrepreneur Tom Park—no relation—is the 2023 James Beard Award winner for Outstanding Bar—and for good reason. It’s inside a generic office building, where you’ll find glossy wood surfaces, burgundy walls and amber candlelight. Reserve an intimate table or a seat at the bar to watch expert bartenders in white-collared shirts, ties and leather aprons mixing handcrafted cocktails garnished with house-dried fruit twisted into flowers or arriving inside tall glass cloches enveloped with white oak or kiawe smoke. Service is impeccable, ice cubes in every shape and size are carved by hand and the number of whiskeys alone reach roughly 500, with exclusive single barrels handpicked by Justin Park. Fittingly, the E Ho‘o Pau Mai Tai on the menu was awarded world’s best mai tai three times.—SB

barleatherapron.com, @barleatherapron

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photos: courtesy bar leather apron

O‘ahu

Shhh! It’s a Speakeasy The charm of these ill-kept secrets lie beyond their elusive entry points.

Wild Orange, O‘ahu Walk down a dark hallway and pop a nickel into the Aloha Maid vending machine to access one of Honolulu’s hippest speakeasies. Once inside, you can sit underneath a tangerine tree amid slot machine-covered walls and manga-lined bar tops while enjoying inventive craft cocktails and vegan bar snacks. Sign the wall while you’re there and don’t forget to keep some change in your pocket if you need to sneak out for a smoke break. wildorangehi.com

The tropical, bourbonbased Kimball Halekūlani’s signature mai tai.

House Without a Key

photos: courtesy halekūlani

O‘ahu IF YOU’VE NEVER HAD A MAI TAI at House Without a Key at sunset, live Hawaiian music wafting in the air, you’ve never experienced the magic of Waikīkī.

Sunset at this outdoor restaurant at the posh Halekūlani—and at the new poolside bar, Earl’s—is an unforgettable experience. Not only is the signature mai tai superb, but the nightly live performances, including hula by 1973 Miss Hawai‘i Kanoe Miller, create the perfect ambience to relax as you watch the sun dip into the sea. The Sunset Cocktail Bites menu features a variety of local-style nosh, from a trio of poke to hoisin-and-honey-glazed ribs topped with coconut syrup. For dessert, indulge in a slice of the hotel’s signature coconut cake. And if you’re an Ernest Hemingway fan, the hotel recently reinstated Table 97, the acclaimed American novelist’s favorite seat, right near the ocean with views of Lē‘ahi (aka Diamond Head).—CTF

halekulani.com/dining/house-without-a-key

Green Lady Cocktail Room, O‘ahu Transport yourself back to the Roaring ’20s, when absinthe drips were all the rage. But don’t skip on the cocktails crafted by some of O‘ahu’s most talented mixologists. Riffs on mint juleps and Singapore slings are just the beginning. To find this hidden gem in Waikīkī, ask the front desk at the White Sands Hotel to point you toward Room 8. greenladycocktailroom.com, @greenladycocktailroom

Yours Truly, O‘ahu After the U.S. annexed Hawai‘i in 1898, the Postal Service sent a cease and desist letter to a below-street level print shop in Downtown Honolulu that produced postcards depicting hula dancers in “exotic Hawai‘i.” The owner continued illegally. Yours Truly—a prohibition era cocktail bar with a secret located in the former illegal print shop—pays homage to a time when Hawai‘i tourism began to boom and rebellion soared. yourstrulyhawaii.com, @yourstrulyhnl

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Hawai‘i on a Budget

Hawai‘i on a Budget Cost-saving tips for your next vacation to the Islands.

STORY BY SARAH BURCHARD AND ASHLEY PROBST I L L U S T R AT I O N S B Y K E L S I E D AY N A

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Hawai‘i on a Budget

Hawai‘i, the most expensive U.S. state to live in, according to the World Population Review, can be an expensive vacation destination, too. But with some insider tips, you can significantly reduce the cost of your trip and still check it off your bucket list.

There are plenty of affordable (or free!)

Happy Hour Hopping

ways to enjoy the

Craving a resort pool bar or restaurant experience without the hefty price tag? Visit during happy hour. That’s when you’ll find special late-night menus, all-day discounts and affordable fresh seafood with a view. Checking happy hour (or pau hana) times and menus is a smart way to stretch your dollar. On O‘ahu, Mahina & Sun’s at the ultra-cool Surfjack Hotel & Swim Club in Waikīkī has happy hour from 11:30 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. daily poolside. Lost & Found at the Wayfinder Waikīkī, another pool bar serving fresh poke, offers 50% off craft cocktails, and Rivals at Waikīkī Malia has beer and pizza by the slice both for $7. In Pō‘ipu on Kaua‘i, visit Kalapakī Joe’s from 3 to 6 p.m. for 25-cent wings, $5 fish tacos and $2 coconut shrimp. The Sea House on Maui is famous for its happy hour bites; from 2 to 4:45 p.m. dine on Asian-style barbecue ribs with pineapple slaw for $9 and seared local ‘ahi with cucumber kimchi for $11. And on Hawai‘i Island visit The Temple Bar (located in Hilo and Kona) for Taco Tuesdays, 5 to 9 p.m. (half-off street tacos and margaritas); or Mondays to Fridays, 3 to 5 p.m. ($1 off all cocktails, craft beer and wine).

Islands, including ditching the rental car; skipping the big resorts for smaller hotels; exploring off-the-beaten-path destinations; and supporting small mom and pop shops, which

Eat Where The Locals Eat

also benefits the

Dive bars and mom and pop spots are the way to go when you’re tight on cash—and many of them serve generous portions. Kūhiō Grille on Hawai‘i Island serves not only breakfast, lunch and dinner with all the local hits from loco moco to kālua pig, but the portions are so big they can easily become two meals. (It is home to the 1-pound lau lau after all.) On Kaua‘i, hit up Mark’s Place for killer plate lunches and daily specials such as smoked marlin and ‘ahi katsu with garlic butter crab. Sheldon Simeon, renowned chef, cookbook author and “Top Chef” contestant, offers top value with elevated local cuisine at his restaurant-bar, Tiffany’s Maui in Wailuku, and his Tin Roof hole-in-the-wall in Kahului. A great bar in Honolulu is 8 Fat Fat 8 off South Beretania Street; the crisp Fat Fat Chicken is a must-try. In Downtown Honolulu, get a deal on killer smash burgers, fries and beer at The Daley.

local economy. Ready to save money, avoid crowds, and skip long lines? Let’s dive in!

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Hawai‘i on a Budget

Frugal Farmers Market Finds

Chill at a Park

Savor tropical fruits, fresh vegetables and a variety of affordable meals at a local farmers market. On O‘ahu, the Kaka‘ako Farmers Market (8 a.m. to noon Saturdays) boasts a dizzying array of local ingredients and cuisines from around the world. Visit Nasi Lemak for Malaysian coconut rice bowls, Fatto A Mano for Neapolitan-style sourdough pizza and Little Sparrow for loaded German spaetzle. On Maui, the Kula Farmers Market (7 to 11 a.m.

Saturdays), near the island’s largest farms and ranches, offers an abundance of local produce. The Kaua‘i Culinary Market (3:30 to 6 p.m. Wednesdays) offers a wine and beer garden in addition to food, plus a free cooking demonstration at 5 p.m. And on Hawai‘i Island, Hilo has multiple choices, including a daily farmers market (7 a.m. to 3 p.m.) at Māmo Street and Kamehameha Avenue, with towering stands of fresh fruit, including local mangosteen, white pineapple and Big Island lychee (when in season), and the evening Hilo Town Market every Friday (5 to 9 p.m.) at 69 Waiānuenue Ave., which includes live music, prepared food and locally made crafts.

Hawai‘i is home to some of the most stunning parks in the world, but not all are free to enter. Before you go, check online to make sure the park you are visiting doesn’t charge a parking and/or admission fee. Kapi‘olani Park on O‘ahu has 200 acres of open, grassy fields that are great for picnicking and relaxing.

On Kaua‘i, Ke Ala Hele Makālae has an 8-mile path for walking, jogging and biking along the coastline, and Wailua River State Park is filled with lush forests, waterfalls and rivers. Keōpūolani Regional Park, Maui’s largest park, offers 110 acres of recreational space adjacent to the Maui Arts and Cultural Center. Hawai‘i Island’s Kalōpā State Recreation Area in Hāmākua is in a native ‘ōhi‘a forest 2,000 feet above sea level, while Lili‘uokalani Gardens in Hilo—a Japanese garden built as a tribute to Hawai‘i’s first Japanese immigrants—boasts manicured pathways, lagoons, pagodas, spectacular views and a traditional teahouse. All free!

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Hawai‘i on a Budget

MAlama Hawai‘i Volunteering for a local nonprofit is an excellent way to learn more about the culture in Hawai‘i as well as some of the issues that residents here face, be they environmental, political or social. In Hawai‘i there are many organizations whose main priority is to steward the land, one of the most important values in Hawaiian culture. By joining a workday, you, too, can give back to this place. On O‘ahu, Mālama Loko Ea restores ancient fishponds on the North Shore; the hope is that one day the ponds can once again cultivate enough fish to help feed their communities. Community workdays are every third Saturday of the month. To help preserve tropical plants and ecosystems, consider volunteering with the National Tropical Botanical Garden organization at Limahuli Garden on the North Shore of Kaua‘i. (Volunteering needs to be scheduled at least three weeks in advance.) Waikoloa Dry Forest on Hawai‘i Island invites volunteers on the second and fourth Saturdays of each month to help build and clear trails, plant trees and more. On Maui, during Kīpuka Olowalu’s two community workdays a week, volunteers remove invasive plants, cultivate native plants and restore kalo (taro) fields in Olowalu Valley. Or join a beach cleanup day with The Surfrider Foundation on O‘ahu, Kaua‘i, Hawai‘i Island or Maui.

Bus Pass to Paradise Take slow travel to another level and opt for public transportation, available on all of the major Hawaiian islands. Hop on a bus for free on Hawai‘i Island; on Maui and Kaua‘i, it’s $2 per ride, and on O‘ahu, you can get an adult day pass for $5.50. Those visiting Honolulu have additional options like Biki, a bike-share service perfect for short-distance travel between Chinatown and Kapi‘olani Community College; it costs $5 one way or $55 for a 300-minute plan. The Skyline rail, running from Kapolei to Aloha Stadium, offers another affordable option with a maximum daily fare of $7.50.

Instead of rushing to the next destination, using public transit reminds riders to enjoy the journey along the way.

Affordable Accommodations Save money by booking accommodations during the slower months, when many hotels reduce room rates and offer other incentive deals. Local favorites include Pacific 19 Kona on Hawai‘i Island, Maui Beach Hotel on Maui, White Sands Hotel on O‘ahu, and Aston Islander on the Beach on Kaua‘i, all of which offer kama‘āina (resident) discounts of 20% or more. Those who like sociable, shared spaces can book a hostel, such as The Beach Waikīkī Boutique Hostel or one of Howzit Hostels’ locations in Hilo or Wailuku. For a more rugged experience, camping is a triedand-true way to connect with nature and save money. Consider a spot at Kumu Camp at the Anahola Beach Retreat on Kaua‘i or Maui’s Camp Olowalu, both with tent, car, “tentalow,” and cabin camping options.

Travel During Slower Times Consider visiting during the offseason.

During the months of September, October, January, February, April (with the exception of spring break) and May you can find great deals on airfare and accommodations. With Hawai‘i’s beautiful year-round weather, it’s always a good time to visit.

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Hawai‘i on a Budget

Bring on the Beaches Beaches are among the main attractions in Hawai‘i—and most are free to visit. (At some, like Hanauma Bay on O‘ahu and Kē‘ē Beach on Kaua‘i, visitors are required to pay entrance fees.)

Before hitting the beach, find out if it is within walking distance, close to a bus stop or near free parking. Stop by a grocery store and pack your own lunch, and opt for activities that don’t require any rental equipment or purchases. Pick beaches with calm water for swimming, lifeguards on duty, parks with playgrounds for the kids, and trees to relax under while reading or listening to music. In the evenings, walk the shoreline just before sunset 42

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to capture stunning photographs. Ala Moana Regional Park on O‘ahu has free parking and is an easy walk or quick bus ride from Waikīkī. It is ideal for swimming, running, walking and grilling.

Salt Pond Beach on Kaua‘i’s West Side also has free parking and calm, reef-protected water for swimming. Or, if you are closer to the East Side, visit Lydgate Beach Park, which boasts a great children’s playground. Hanaka‘ō‘ō Park, aka Canoe Beach, on Maui can get crowded on weekends, but during the week it’s a peaceful place to swim or barbecue, and parking is free. And if you’re looking for a great place to swim on Hawai‘i Island, check out Kauna‘oa Bay (Mauna Kea Beach) and its turquoise waters.

Hawai‘i on a Budget

No-Cost Island Adventures Explore cost-effective activities: The Capitol Modern art museum is free to visit, and there’s no charge for residents at ‘Iolani Palace on Kama‘āina Sundays.

Both are on O‘ahu. Or discover the natural beauty of the ‘āina (land) for free at O‘ahu’s city-run Ho‘omaluhia Botanical Garden or Koko Head Botanical Garden.

Enjoy a guided walking tour of Kīhei or Wailuku with Historic Maui Walking Tours, or Downtown Honolulu with Hawai‘i Free Tours. The tours are free, but tips are encouraged. Search for ancient Hawaiian petroglyphs on Hawai‘i Island and Maui, or witness the nightly cliff diving sunset ceremony on Kā‘anapali Beach. Additionally, enjoy free, regularly scheduled cultural activities at various locations across the Islands, including Hale Kukuna at the Fairmont Kea Lani in Wailea and the Royal Hawaiian Center in Waikīkī.

Hiking on a Dime Discover the diverse hiking options of Hawai‘i, with trails suited for every level of expertise. Enjoy a leisurely walk on Maui’s ‘Īao Needle Lookout Trail, where lush scenery and the iconic ‘Īao Needle await hikers of all ages. Although the Lanikai Pillbox Hike on O‘ahu has a steep incline, it’s a short trail with panoramic views of Lanikai Beach, the Mokulua Islands and the ocean in stunning shades of turquoise. For a moderate challenge, hike the Waimea Canyon Trail on Kaua‘i (the canyon itself is nicknamed the Grand Canyon of the Pacific) for expansive vistas. Explore the rainforest and one of the highest swamps in the world on the Alaka‘i Swamp Trail on Kaua‘i. Experts looking for a more demanding adventure may want to tackle the Olomana Trail with its steep ridgelines and rewarding scenic viewpoints.

Alternatively, the Kīlauea Iki and Crater Rim Trail offers a rugged trek through volcanic terrain. Whether you’re seeking an easy stroll or a tough climb, Hawai‘i’s trails promise breathtaking experiences for every hiker.

Thrift Shop Treasures Take home a piece of Hawai‘i’s charm from one of its many eclectic thrift and consignment stores, where vintage treasures and unique gifts abound. From vibrant fashion at the Dollhouse consignment store in Hilo to high-end finds at LoveUp Boutique in Pā‘ia, each store offers a glimpse into the Islands’ diverse style. Explore Rainbow Attic in Kīhei for thrifted clothing and home goods, or browse C.U.T. Market in Wailuku for a curated clothing collection. With each purchase, you not only gain a special memento but also support local businesses and sustainable fashion. Thrift shopping in Hawai‘i is an adventure in itself, and the treasures you’ll find will evoke cherished memories every time you wear or use them.

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

ACTIVITIES & ATTRACTIONS

Adventures in Paradise Whether you’re searching for the thrill of an outdoor activity, an opportunity to embrace the local culture or craving a chance to explore hidden natural wonders, our Activities and Attractions guide has you covered. Dive into the heart of the Islands with activities and attractions that will make your trip truly unforgettable and discover the best of what Hawai‘i has to offer.

Blue Dolphin Charters

Kā‘anapali Golf Courses

Set sail on an unforgettable adventure with Blue Dolphin Charters, a family-owned business proudly serving Kaua‘i since 1995. Our 65-foot catamarans and 24-foot rafts are your ticket to exploring the stunning Nāpali Coast. Placing in the Best Nāpali Tour Company category by HAWAI‘I Magazine readers in April 2024, we’re ready to make your experience extraordinary. December marks the start of the whalewatching season—perfect for creating lasting memories. Don’t miss our exclusive Dolphin Guarantee on morning tours. Discover the beauty of Kaua‘i with us. Call now or book online for your discounted tour in advance. (808) 335-5553, BlueDolphinKauai.com

The Royal Kā‘anapali Golf Course offers a memorable golfing experience in a breathtaking tropical setting on Maui. Whether you’re a seasoned golfer seeking a challenge, or prefer a relaxing, scenic game, the Royal provides an unforgettable experience. With its rich history, championship layout, and stunning ocean views, it’s no wonder Royal Kā‘anapali is considered one of Maui’s premier golfing destinations.

Known for its forgiving fairways and approachable layout, at 6,400 yards, the par 70 Kā‘anapali Kai Golf Course offers a relaxing yet engaging round with subtle, undulating greens that accommodates all levels of play. Book today at kaanapaligolfcourses.com.

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SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION

Adventures in Paradise

Maui Chocolate Tour

Maui Ocean Center

Discover the sweet story of Maui Ku‘ia Estate Chocolate on the Maui Chocolate Tour. Wander through cacao trees and witness the bean-tobar process that transforms raw cacao into delicious chocolate. Our guided tour offers a close- up view of how chocolate is crafted, with opportunities to taste the rich flavors of Maui-grown cacao. Whether you’re a foodie, chocolate lover, or just looking for a unique experience, this tour is a sweet escape into the heart of Maui’s agricultural richness. mauichocolatetour.com

Learn how Maui Ocean Center's passionate ocean experts are making a splash in marine conservation through authentic cultural experiences, animal encounters and interactive education. Plus, shop at Hawai‘i’s premier gift store, Maui Ocean Treasures, and dine at the awardwinning, sustainably certified Seascape restaurant. For tickets and more information, visit mauioceancenter.com.

Maui Pineapple Tour

Pride of Maui

Discover the sweet side of Maui with the Maui Pineapple Tour.

This unique experience takes you through the pineapple fields where Maui Gold Pineapples are grown, offering insights into the cultivation and harvesting processes. Taste the freshness of pineapples straight from the source and enjoy an exclusive look into Maui’s agricultural heritage. Whether you’re a local or a visitor, this tour is a delightful way to connect with the island’s vibrant farming community. mauipineappletour.com

Pride of Maui is Maui's premier ocean tour company with over 40 years of experience. You can enjoy the best Molokini and Turtle Town Snorkel Tours, Sunset Dinner Cruises, Whale Watching Tours, and Holiday Cruises. Exclusive and luxurious private charters and wedding cruises are available onboard both the spacious and stable Pride of Maui and her new state-of-the-art sister yacht, ‘Elua. ‘Elua is the pinnacle of luxury on Maui, boasting the only air-conditioned cabin on any commercial passenger vessel on the island, along with VIP seating and bespoke amenities for a truly exceptional experience. prideofmaui.com

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Adventures in Paradise

Mauna Loa Helicopters

Sail Maui

Embark on a once-in-a-lifetime adventure with Mauna Loa Helicopter Tours. Offering private tours across Hawai‘i’s Big Island, Kaua‘i, and O‘ahu, we provide a thrilling and safe experience you’ll never forget.

Enjoy breathtaking views from above, with the option of doors on or off, as you soar over Hawai‘i’s stunning landscapes. Our tours combine excitement with affordable luxury, making it easy for you to explore paradise in style without breaking the bank. Discover the beauty of Hawai‘i like never before and create lasting memories with Mauna Loa Helicopter Tours—your premier choice for aerial adventures. maunaloahelicoptertours.com

At Sail Maui we are dedicated to offering the most intimate and authentic catamaran sailing experience in Hawai‘i. Whether you’re seeking exhilarating sailing cruises, breathtaking coastal snorkeling, or serene sunset sails, we have something for everyone. Our friendly and knowledgeable crew ensures that every trip is memorable. During the annual humpback whale migration, our whale-watching tours offer an intimate experience as you witness these majestic creatures in their natural habitat. Our luxurious catamarans are designed for performance and equipped for comfort, providing the perfect setting for your Maui boat tours. Feel the trade winds as you sail through the waters of Maui. sailmaui.com

Sea Life Park x Aloha Kai Lū‘au

Waikīkī Beach Services

Sea Life Park is Hawai‘i’s premier marine park on Oahu. Celebrating 60 years of guests from around the world enjoying unique and interactive experiences with Hawai‘i’s marine life – it’s a must-see attraction!

Showcasing visually exciting dances of Polynesia and culminating with performances by competitive world fire-knife dancers, the Aloha Kai Lū‘au also supports marine life conservation and sustainability by offering every luau guest complimentary admission to Sea Life Park (pre- or post-lū‘au visit). Select packages offer various park visits. It’s the perfect day of fun and cultural experiences: Sea Life Park x Aloha Kai Lū‘au sealifeparkhawaii.com | @sealifepark | @alohakailuau

Discover the thrill of surfing at Waikīkī Beach, the birthplace of this legendary sport! Join Waikīkī Beach Services for an unforgettable adventure riding the waves for the first time. Our seasoned Waikīkī Beachboy team of watermen will guide you every step of the way, ensuring a fun, safe, and exhilarating experience. Whether you’re a total beginner or looking to refine your skills, surfing in Waikīkī is a must for anyone visiting Hawai‘i. Feel the rush, soak up the sun, and make memories that will last a lifetime. Book your lesson today and catch the wave of a lifetime with us! (808) 388-1510, waikikibeachservices.com

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EXPLORE OAHU’S NORTH SHORE

NORTH SHORE ADVENTURE TOUR – O‘AHU

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VOTED ONE OF THE BEST GUIDED TOURS

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DOLE PINEAPPLE FARM TOUR – O‘AHU

NORTH SHORE ADVENTURE TOUR

EXPERIENCE A CULTURAL HIKE, NATIVE HAWAIIAN PLANTING, KAYAKING AND RUSTIC HALEIWA TOWN.

NORTH SHORE DOLE PINEAPPLE FARM TOUR DIVE DEEPER INTO THE AGRICULTURAL WORLD OF PINEAPPLES GROWN IN HAWAII.

EXPERIENCE HAWAII’S BEST IN JUST ONE DAY

VOLCANO TOUR – HILO HAWAII VOLCANOES NATIONAL PARK

HAWAI‘I MOVIE TOUR - KAUA‘I

HEAVENLY HANA TOUR – MAUI ROAD TO HANA

ALL THE ABOVE TOURS START FROM OAHU AND INCLUDES: GROUND TRANSPORTATION FROM WAIKIKI TO HNL AIRPORT (ROUND TRIP) | SOUTHWEST AIRLINES (ROUNDTRIP) | FULL DAY ISLAND TOUR | $499 FOR ANY OF THE ABOVE TOURS, PER PERSON

BOOK NOW! CALL: (808) 539-9400 FOR ALL TOUR AND ACTIVITY OFFERINGS SCAN HERE

SERVING THE ISLANDS FOR OVER 80 YEARS

SCAN ME

Gifts of Aloha

Whether you’re heading to a potluck, birthday party or just celebrating a special occasion, exchanging gifts in Hawai‘i is a way to express appreciation and aloha to our loved ones. This holiday season share the things you love about the Islands with the people you care about. Our Gifts of Aloha guide features local products that reflect the spirit of the Islands to help you bring a bit of Hawai‘i to your family and friends.

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KOHO Chocolates

Voyager Green 18-Piece Assorted Bon Bons Explore artisanal chocolates in our best-selling Voyager Green assortment. Each box contains Liliko‘i, Hawaiian Sea Salt, Guava, Mango Ginger, Macadamia Blossom Honey, and Kona Coffee. $54 kohochocolates.com

Classic Waves Boutique

Classic Waves Boutique X Suzanne Jennerich Aloha Collection Mermaid Day Tripper This exclusive Aloha Collection Day Tripper depicts a hidden golden mermaid tail, the words “Kailua, Hawai‘i” and pink seashells as part of this iconic collaboration. $72 classicwaves.boutique

Maui Pineapple Store

Maui Gold® Pineapple 2 Pack Gift Box The Sweetest Pineapple on Earth, From Our ‘Ohana to Yours. Hand-harvested, naturally sweet, and low in acidity.

Support Maui’s last family-owned pineapple farm this holiday season! $59.99 mauipineapplestore.com

Mānoa Honey & Mead

Honey & Mead Gift Sets Our favorite gift sets include our top selling meads and premium honey, all harvested and made locally. The best way to share the true taste of Hawai‘i with your loved ones. Starting at $45. manoahoney.com

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Island Essence

Maui Organics Lauhala Gift Basket 4 Varieties A beautiful lauhala basket filled with lotion, soy candle, body butter and soap. Four tropical varieties made on Maui with love. $60 islandessence.com

CocoNene

Nativity Scene Longboard Letters Set Celebrate the season with this Hawaiian-themed Nativity Set, blending classic Christmas tradition with island charm. Made in Hawai‘i, made with aloha. Set dimensions 19”L x 6.5”W. $150 coconene.com

The ‘Ulu Chip Factory

Gift Bag

Shop the ‘Ulu Chip Factory Store for unique local snacks and gifts sets.

Shop over 200 different products that are 100% locally made. Try our fresh ‘Ulu Chips We ship! $75 UluManaHawaii.com

Waiwaolani

Charlie Blouse Waiwaolani new holiday release of our popular Charlie Blouse in Retro Koki‘o. Light, cool & versatile. $90 waiwaolani.com

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Jules + Gem Hawaii

Pīkake Perfume Roller Conveniently packed in a roller, this product allows you to take the lovely fragrance of pīkake with you, whether you’re exploring the islands or the world. $24 julesandgemhawaii.com

Punalu‘u Bake Shop

Hawaiian Style Pineapple Macadamia Nut Fruitcake A delicious treat that can be enjoyed any time of year. Sunsweetened pineapple perfectly blended with fresh island coconut and golden roasted macadamia nuts give a tropical twist to a traditional holiday favorite. $24.99 bakeshophawaii.com

Liko Lehua Butter

Liliko‘i (Passionfruit) Butter Liko Lehua Liliko‘i (passionfruit) Butter is a unique blend of sweet, tart, creamy goodness made in small batches using natural ingredients in Hilo, Hawai‘i. $11.85 likolehua.com

Kauai Coffee

Estate Reserve Peaberry – Medium or Dark Roast Estate Reserve Peaberry: A rousing cup of coffee with a sweet fragrance and bright, citrusy flavor notes. It is a coffee brimming with tropical sunshine! $37.00 kauaicoffee.com

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KAU KAU

For A Good Time, Dial 855-Aloha

floor of Romer House Waikīkī—the island’s first adults-only hotel. It captures the spirit of a Japanese izakaya, a casual Japanese bar where drinks flow and people eat from shareable small plates in a refined, luxurious setting. Here, the sake bombs, or “shake (pronounced “shock-ay,”) bombs”—a reference to the shaka—are just the beginning. With a beverage program curated by beverage director Phil Collins that includes 10 craft cocktails, highballs, beer (both local and Japanese), wine and sake (selected by master of sake Stuart Morris), you could drink here all night.

My boyfriend and I sit amid hues of blue in a curvy, well-cushioned corner booth that enables us to watch the action in the dining room while still enjoying an intimate date night. Just the menu alone is entertaining. The cover features the same royal blue panel with white hibiscus flowers you find on the sides of phone booths throughout Hawai‘i. There are telephone references galore, such as the *69, the evening’s cocktail special, and the Party Line, a platter of build-your-own sushi hand-rolls. These landline terms take me back to the early ’90s, and 855-Aloha’s live DJ keeps me there, spinning hits such as “Can We Talk” by Tevin Campbell and “Come & Talk To Me” by Jodeci.

(Almost all of the songs have talking or telephone references.) Everything, from the art and photography on the walls to the chefs’ coats that read, “Call me,” pay homage to pay phones.

I start with the Who You Gonna Call cocktail, a citrusy Suntory Whisky Toki cocktail finished with salted coconut-macadamia nut foam, and follow it up with the Kiss Me Through the Phone, a matcha-flavored Awayuki white strawberry gin sour served in a ceremonial-style matcha bowl. Both pair well with chef and partner Shotaro “Sho” Kamio and executive chef Daniel No’s extensive menu of thoughtfully prepared Japanese comfort food.

Kamio’s time leading top Bay Area kitchens

The 411 on Waikīkī’s new old-school-meets-ultra-hip drinking and eating spot.

BY SARAH BURCHARD

Chef Michael Ocampo feeds guests teppanyaki A-5 wagyu tableside.

Shake Bombs

“

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CHI…NI…SAN…SAKE BOMB!”

The chant from a young man a table over is followed by a thundering response from his eight friends, who pound on the table and yell back, “Sake bomb!” Shots of sake suspended by chopsticks over half-full glasses of beer shake, then drop into the suds as the 18 sticks that held them up spill onto the table. A server records them chugging their drinks with an iPhone. And everyone cheers.

855-Aloha, the newest of three restaurants that Table One Hospitality has opened this year in Honolulu, is on the ground

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photos: craig bixel, brooke fitts

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LEFT such as Ozumo and Yoshi’s in San Francisco and Iyasare in Berkeley, and (From top, clockwise) Some of the restaurant‘s No’s experience working in Michepopular dishes include lin-starred Eleven Madison Park in the kara ebi, 855 kaarage, tsukene with egg yolk Manhattan, shows in their cooking, teriyaki and Sho Me both in technique and intent. the Wagyu.

The 855-Kara-age, or karaage chickRIGHT en, humble bar fare in other places, is lightly battered and flash fried at a What’s Your Math cocktail high temperature until crisp but not greasy and dusted with aonori (dried green seaweed). The crunchy umami bombs are transformed by a lemon wedge dipped in shichimi togarashi (Japanese spice mix) and squeezed onto the chicken for seasoning.

The menu is a hybrid, embracing traditional izakaya fare that Kamio grew up with in the countryside of Sendai, Japan. There’s the tsukune (a chicken, pork and beef sausage on a skewer) served with julienned shiso leaf and teriyaki dipping sauce with a bright orange egg yolk floating in the center; mapo yakko— chilled silken tofu smothered in a sansho pepper seasoned pork and shiitake mushroom ragu, simmered in agedashi and oozing chile oil; and the gyutan (beef tongue) caramelized on a sizzling platter tableside. Bun-bun hiyashi chuka—chilled ramen with crunchy vegetables in a goma (sesame) vinaigrette—is Kamio’s mother’s recipe, the yakisoba was his after-school snack growing

up and the Sendai Motsu Ni “Chef ’s Meal”—a stew made with a variety of beef cuts (including intestines), chicken offal and konjac (a Japanese root vegetable) in a sake-spiked miso broth— is the childhood dish he would eat as his last dying meal.

There are also desserts—unexpected in an izakaya setting.

Since they’re usually an afterthought in a traditional izakaya, I was thrilled to find kinako flavored panna cotta with Japanese pear butter and puffed rice—more like a custard than a jiggly gelatin, and the chocolate namelaka (“creamy” in Japanese), which is like a light and silky ganache. The sesame seed tuile adds crunch, while the tahini caramel offsets the richness of the dark chocolate with sweetness and a touch of salt. With the inclusion of POG (passion fruit, orange, guava) shave ice as the third dessert, and all of the local references scattered throughout the menu, the chefs have clearly done their homework.

Fittingly, the evening ends when my server drops a wooden checkbook designed to look like a phone book at my table. I’m already planning my return visit. Once 855-Aloha hits the coconut wireless, reservations are bound to fill up fast.

Izakaya 855-Aloha

Open nightly from 5 to 10 p.m., 415 Nāhua St., Waikīkī, (808) 795-8012, izakaya855aloha.com FALL 2 0 24

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MĀLAMA

Volunteers removing invasive plants from the fishpond.

Mālama Cultural Connections Volunteer with Mālama Loko Ea, a nonprofit organization that’s restoring ancient fishponds on O‘ahu’s North Shore.

BY SARAH BURCHARD

and surfers, paddlers and visitors are already hitting the beach and surf shops. But there’s another side to the world’s surfing capital: Tucked back from the main road, behind eateries and a row of palm trees, is the nonprofit Mālama Loko Ea, which has been restoring one of O‘ahu’s most abundant ahupua’a (a land division usually extending from the mountains to the sea) and loko pu‘uone (isolated fishponds near the shore that contain both fresh and salt water) for over 15 years.

Every third Saturday of the month Mālama Loko Ea hosts a community workday, with locals and travelers from all around the world joining in to help restore the land.

For generations—400 to 500 years ago—fishponds were part of the Native Hawaiian food system. They were either built in the ocean, or like the loko pu‘uone of Mālama Loko Ea, just short of 54

HA WA I ‘ I M A G A Z I N E

A mākāhā (sluice gate) where the ocean water meets the fishpond.

the coast, with fresh water coming in from the mountains and a channel leading out to the ocean. Both utilize rock walls with sluice gates, or mākāhā, that allow baby fish to enter the pond, where they feed on vegetation and grow so large they can’t escape and are eventually harvested. The fishponds of Mālama Loko Ea, named Loko Ea and Ukoa, were built inland, out of the way of North Shore waves that can reach up to ​​​​50 feet. ​​​​​​​Originally, Loko Ea and Ukoa were fed by spring water from the Ko‘olau Mountains, which flowed through the ponds and out to the ocean as part of the Kawailoa ahupua‘a. Today, they

photos: aaron k. yoshino

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T’S 9 A.M. IN HALE‘IWA on O‘ahu’s North Shore

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exist on legacy lands owned by Kamehameha Schools, safe from the commercial development that’s swallowed the surrounding area. Thanks to the community and founders of Mālama Loko Ea, James Estores and Benson W.K. Lee Jr., these ponds will eventually link back up with the mountain spring and reconnect the ahupua‘a—a project the organization predicts will take another 10 years to complete.

One of the challenges is keeping the ponds properly dredged.

When the Hale‘iwa Boat Harbor was built in 1966, wave patterns in the area shifted. When the wind direction changes and the northern tide rises, sand is pushed into the channel that connects the fishponds to the ocean. The channel, which should be t​ wo to four​feet deep, can be as little as 6 inches deep when that happens​ and needs to be shoveled out.​​The area around the mākāhā needs to be regularly shoveled out as well in order to maintain salinity and tidal flow exchange between ocean and fish pond. This is one of main tasks on volunteer workdays. ​​​ ​​​​​​ Another volunteer task involves the removal of invasive guinea grass that grows on land and along the ponds’ banks, crowding out and destroying native plants and ecosystems. Guinea grass can grow up to 10 feet high; it flourishes in Hawai‘i, so it’s imperative to keep a constant watch on it. After it is removed, the grass is used to create weed mats, mulch and chicken feed. ​​A task that might take Mālama Loko Ea staff a month to accomplish can be done by volunteers in just an hour, ​​​​​​says volunteer coordinator Honu‘āina Nichols. “Loko Ea thrives when people are brought back as an integral part of a functioning ecosys​​​​ tem. Without people, our ecosystem is incomplete.” ​​Last year, the organization purchased a dredge machine to essentially vacuum the bottom of Loko Ea to get it to the​​​​proper

depth of 5​to 6​feet. ​The sediment gets redistributed along the banks of the fishpond. ​​ Once complete, the next task is to rebuild its ​historic ​surrounding rock wall​and five mākāhā.​Only then can the pond become fully functional, producing what executive director Rae DeCoito estimates will be 500 pounds of fish per acre, per year​.​​​​​ As a traveler, one of the most intimate ways to learn about a new place is by volunteering with an environmental organization.

You’ll learn about what makes the land thrive and what makes it languish, and about local and Indigenous cultures and customs.

Each Mālama Loko Ea workday begins with a Hawaiian oli, or chant, through which staff and volunteers are introduced to the land and seek permission to enter it, just as people would do if they were arriving at someone else’s home. From a cultural perspective, many Native Hawaiians see themselves as children of the land and feel it is their responsibility to take care of it; in turn the land takes care of them. Participating in a workday and learning about Hawai‘i’s cultures and customs will change your perspective as a visitor on Hawaiian land. By caring for the land you’ll learn to value and respect it as if it were another human being.

“Every time we engage with ‘āina (land) ​​​​our connection ​[to it] ​ grows and our understanding of ​[that] ​connection roots deeper,” Nichols says. “Having a connection to ‘āina makes it personal when something happens to that space.”

Volunteer workdays are every third Saturday of the month. 62-540 Kamehameha Highway, Hale‘iwa, (808) 637-3232, @lokoeafishpond.

Register online at lokoea.org.

The fishpond holds monthly community workdays for volunteers.

Learn about fishponds and Hawaiian history and culture at community workday events.

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ONE LAST LOOK

One Last Look P H O T O B Y D AV I D C R O X F O R D

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HIDDEN GEM on O‘ahu’s

Windward Side, the Byodo-In Temple is a replica of Byōdō-in, a 900-year-old temple—a World Heritage site—located in Uji, Japan. It was built in 1963 to commemorate the 100th anniversary of the arrival of the first Japanese immigrants to the Islands. The non-practicing Buddhist temple is open to visitors daily. A popular feature is the Bell House, called kanetsuki-do. It houses a 5-foot-tall, 3-ton brass bell, called bon-sho, cast in Osaka, Japan. Ringing the bell is said to bring you happiness, blessings and a life long. byodo-in.com

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LIKE A LOCAL

Leave the Lava Take a photo of that rock instead.

B Y C AT H E R I N E T O T H F O X

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VER HEARD OF THE PHRASE , “Leave No Trace”?

He adds that, through the mail, the park receives an average of 3,500 rocks, pieces of coral and other natural items annually. And, inevitably, “the myth” is the reason. According to that myth, taking these items from Hawai‘i will result in bad luck thanks to a curse by the volcano deity Pele who, according to mo‘olelo (story), lives in Halema‘uma‘u Crater.

Here’s the thing: That bad-luck curse isn’t rooted in any mo‘olelo and, according to Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park, is actually considered offensive to many Native Hawaiians.

Either way, the national parks don’t want people to mail back the pōhaku (rocks).

“Ecologically, items mailed back to the park can carry invasive species like insects, seeds, algae, or bacteria not visible to the naked eye,” Clemons says. “These invasive species can pose a threat to native species. In addition, it takes a substantial amount of park staff time to sort the packages and sanitize the rocks to prevent the potential spread of invasive species.

Once rock, sand or coral is taken from its natural habitat, it can never be returned to its original location because we do not know where it came from.”

So what are you supposed to do if you want to return these rocks?

Don’t, Clemons says. Instead, contact your local natural resources department for advice.

And blame your bad luck on something else.

photo: su nitram via getty images

It’s an accepted set of seven principles—a mantra in national parks and other protected outdoor spaces—that remind visitors to minimize their impact on the environment.

One of those principles can directly be applied to national parks in Hawai‘i: Leave what you find.

For decades, people have taken lava rocks from Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park and Haleakalā National Park as souvenirs. And for just as many decades, they’ve been sending them back, often with handwritten notes of apology. Apparently, all of these people eventually caught wind of the myth that says anyone who takes rocks from Hawai‘i will be cursed.

So we’re here to break it down for you.

Simply put, it’s illegal—and culturally inappropriate—to take anything from a national park, including lava rocks.

According to folks at Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park on Hawai‘i Island, taking rocks alters the geologic story for future generations and can negatively impact native biodiversity.

In addition, Hawaiian archaeological sites comprise significant remnants of the rich Native Hawaiian history of Hawai‘i and are threatened by human impacts, explains Nick Clemons, acting chief of interpretation, education and volunteers at Haleakalā National Park on Maui.

“When visitors to Haleakalā National Park take rocks from the park, they risk harm to these important and threatened sites, many of which are difficult to discern as archaeological sites to the untrained eye,” he says. “Taking rocks from the park is also disrespectful to the Native Hawaiian culture, which considers the summit of Haleakalā to be a sacred place.”

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LEARN. PLAY. DISCOVER.

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Shopping, dining, entertainment, & education. We’re more than an aquarium.

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From our friendly staff who are always ready to assist you, to the thoughtfully designed spaces, our goal is to create an atmosphere of warmth, comfort, and authentic connection. And whether you're here to explore the stunning beaches and trails or indulge in delicious local cuisine, we know your stay will be memorable.

Experience the true essence of hospitality at Waikiki Malia, where the spirit of aloha awaits you.

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Waikiki Malia is locally owned and operated with Aloha 2211 Kuhio Avenue, Honolulu, HI 96815 USA Phone: 808-923-7621 I Fax: 808-921-4804 www.waikikimalia.com @waikikimalia

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