Wilco, Lizzo, The Rep, and 65 Other Reasons to Embrace the Fall Arts Scene p.73 Plus: St. Louis Says Bienvenue to the St. Louis Symphony's New Music Director Stéphane Denève p.88
September 2019
G R E AT
ESCAPES GET LOST IN A FIELD OF SUNFLOWERS SLEEP UNDER THE STARS SET SAIL ON THE GREAT LAKES
So much to do
Photography by Matt Marcinkowski
So much to see
10 Scenic Adventures By Amanda E. Doyle & Laura Miserez
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1. Sail From Chicago Want to take a cruise without spending half your vacation getting to your departure point? Consider the Great Lakes, which offer 11,000 miles of shoreline and the possibility of sailing far beyond sight of land. The Great Lakes Cruise Company offers departure hubs in Chicago and Milwaukee from which you can be onboard and en route to a range of destinations in a twinkling. One classic Photography by Doug Lemke, catnap72
destination is Michigan’s picturesque Mackinac Island, famous for its 120-year-old tradition of no motorized vehicles. Visitors instead get around on foot or bike or in horse-drawn carriages. For those who want to go beyond the fudge-and-tchotchke circuit along Main Street, 80 percent of the island is Mackinac Island State Park. Outfitters such as Jack’s Livery Stable offer
SO MUCH TO SEE
2.
Drive on the Sand SILVER LAKE, MICHIGAN PLAY: More than 2,000
acres of golden sand dunes lining the shore of Lake Michigan fairly beg to be explored by Jeep, motorcycle, or dune buggy. Or take to the water aboard a Hydrobike, sailboat, paddleboard, kayak, or WaveRunner. If camping isn’t your thing, try the cozy Hart House Bed and Breakfast, or splurge on a lakeside room with a balcony and private whirlpool at the Dunes Waterfront Resort. STAY:
DINE: Go Big or go home
at Big Hart Brewing Co., which offers an impressive selection of housemade brews, wines, and pub fare. Little Sable Point Lighthouse, a historic redbrick tower with a 130-step climb to the top. DON’T FORGET:
to Mackinac drive-yourself carriages. However you arrive, be sure to visit Arch Rock, which affords stunning views. Delve into island lore with a short hike up Anne’s Tablet Trail, which snakes past the gazebo featured in the sci-fi romance film Somewhere in Time and on to the shrine to 19th-century writer Constance Fenimore Woolson, whose novel Anne takes place on Mackinac.
45° 51' 40" N / 84° 37' 50" W
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As summer’s searing heat begins to fade, the mountains of northern Arkansas beckon. There’s so much beauty, from winding hikes and hidden waterfalls to the majestic Buffalo River (the first to be designated a national river, one of just five in the nation). The Buffalo Outdoor Center, in Ponca, serves as river HQ and will give you the skinny on the best river floats for your comfort level. Nearby hiking includes the 2.2-mile Lost Valley Trail, ideal for beginners, families with kids, and anyone who wants to walk
3. Sleep Under the Stars
Photography by Jeff Rose, Evan Schiller
a short distance for a big payoff. (Caves! Bats! Waterfalls! Flowers!) Also near Ponca, don’t miss your chance to survey the most photographed location in the state, Whitaker Point (a.k.a. Hawksbill Crag). It’s featured prominently in the opening scenes of the film Tuck Everlasting—and about a billion engagement photos. The 3-mile round trip is awash in seasonal wildflowers and fiery fall foliage. Climb to the top of the state’s highest peak at Mount Magazine State Park, near Paris. There are two campgrounds,
SO MUCH TO SEE
cabins, and a lodge that can serve as a comfy home base after a day spent mountain biking, technical rock climbing, or hanggliding. On the trip back to St. Louis, stop at Ozark Folk Center State Park, in Mountain View, Arkansas. The Craft Village features dozens of artisans, working in everything from woodcarving to metalsmithing to leather tooling. September 13–15, three nights of live music and dances—clogging, jigging, and contra— will fill the stage at the Music Theater during Folk Dance Days.
36° 1' 27" N / 93° 21' 53" W
in Northern Arkansas
4.
Play Payne’s Valley BRANSON, MISSOURI PLAY: The first public
course designed by Tiger Woods is slated to open next year: Payne’s Valley, named for the late golfer and Ozark native Payne Stewart, showcases the dramatic Ozark landscape. (Some holes are available now for preview play.) Big Cedar Lodge, of course. Choose from log cabins, homey cottages, rustic campsites, and the main lodge. STAY:
DINE: Osage Restaurant
offers dining with a view, or consider Arnie’s Barn, where Mexican dishes are served in an enormous barn once owned by Arnold Palmer. Sail along Table Rock Lake on a 62-foot yacht during the Lady Liberty Brunch and Dinner Cruise. DON’T FORGET:
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5. Explore the Lost Canyon “Dell” is the Americanized version of the French word dalle, meaning paving stone, referring to one of the most common geologic features of the 5-mile gorge on the Wisconsin River. The area’s home to wonders both natural and human-made. The Dells’ craggy sandstone formations, austere outcroppings, and glaciercarved passageways captured the American imagination in the late 1800s. Largely thanks to the pioneering work of Canadian landscape photographer H.H. Bennett (whose studio museum Photography by Jacob Boomsma, catnap72
in the Dells you can still visit), tourists and thrill-seekers began flocking to the area. It’s no different today, although in addition to the hikes and excursion boats, visitors can try more modern gimmicks, such as the Ghost Boat, a spooky nighttime float. For an up-close look at the rocks, flora, and fauna, try a Lost Canyon Tour with a horse-drawn carriage and naturalist guide. And if you’ve done the Dells and need a new way to explore, why not give bowfishing a try? Redbeard Bowfishing Charters runs day
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6.
Navigate the River Bluffs Scenic Byway IOWA PLAY: The entire 109-mile
route offers breathtaking scenery and natural reserves such as Dutton’s Cave Park and the Bixby State Park ice cave. You’ll understand why the area is called Iowa’s Little Switzerland. More than 30 campgrounds with a range of amenities are nestled along the route, and there are a few chain hotels in the bigger towns. STAY:
DINE: Try a burger at
Dotzy’s and Algerian cuisine at Schera’s, then enjoy a nightcap at Eagle’s Landing. The 13 historic towns along the byway boast must-see sights of their own, including Motor Mill, a six-story limestone mill constructed in 1869, and the century-old Volga City Opera House. DON’T FORGET:
in the Wisconsin Dells and night. Less organic but no less entertaining are the Dells’ waterparks and thrill rides. Wilderness Resort, Kalahari, and Chula Vista are among the most visited attractions, alongside the five coasters at Mt. Olympus. The Dells teems with Bransonstyle draws: mini-golf, escape rooms, outlet shopping… You’re sure to eventually work up a thirst. Quench it at Sprecher’s Restaurant & Pub with a flight of craft root beer, cream soda, Orange Dream, ginger ale, and more.
43° 37' 39" N / 89° 46' 15" W
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It sounds like a sequel to Field of Dreams, albeit with less baseball: Grow sunflowers, and they will come. That’s pretty much what happened in an otherwise unremarkable field near Lawrence, Kansas, where the owners planted sunflower seeds alongside their more profitable corn and soybeans. Now, farmers Ted and Kris Grinter tend to 40 acres of the eye-popping blooms, and their arrival around Labor Day each year causes a burst of excitement—and traffic. The Grinters don’t charge admission
7. See the Sunflowers
Photography by Michael Strickland, Pugalenthi
to their little slice of paradise, which draws throngs of camerawielding visitors who show up when the stalks are at their tallest and blossoms at their most eye-catching. Among Kris’ tips for first-time visitors: There are no restrooms in a sunflower field, so plan ahead. Carry out whatever you bring in. Come with a sense of wonder and maybe a selfie stick. Don’t bother the bees. If you must take a sunflower or two, stick a few bucks in the donation tube at the field entrance. Pull off the road to park. (And, Kris
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notes wryly, “To the person who brought the ice cream truck last year: No!”) After all that outdoorsy fun, head to town for dinner at 715 on Massachusetts Street, which serves a farm-forward menu. On your way back to St. Louis, make a stop in Overland Park, Kansas, for another one-of-a-kind attraction: Museum at Prairiefire, the first significant satellite venture by New York’s American Museum of Natural History. “Outnumbered: Incredible Lives of Insects” opens in October.
38° 58' 18" N / 95° 14' 7" W
Near Lawrence
8.
Swim at Turner Falls DAVIS, OKLAHOMA PLAY: The park’s 77-foot
namesake is arguably at its most scenic in the fall, when the changing leaves create a colorful backdrop and there are fewer crowds. Hiking trails wind past impressive rock formations, a heartbeat away from the 1.4 billion-year-old granite Arbuckle Mountains. The park offers cabins and eight campsites. Nearby Davis, Oklahoma, has cottages, bed-and-breakfasts, motels, chain hotels, and casino hotels. STAY:
DINE: Smokin’ Joe’s Rib
Ranch is the go-to barbecue joint; grab dessert at Arbuckle Mountain Fried Pies. Historic Collings Castle, built during the Great Depression. DON’T FORGET:
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9. Raise a Glass As other St. Louisans flock to Ste. Genevieve, Augusta, and Hermann this time of year, consider heading east instead. Just a couple of hours from downtown are the western reaches of Shawnee National Forest, where you can enjoy award-winning vineyards. Eleven participating wineries make up Illinois’ first wine trail. The first three—Alto, Pomona, and Owl Creek—started the wine trail; Pomona is the only 100 percent non-grape winemaker Photography by Matt Marcinkowski
on the trail, specializing in such varietals as a semidry Jonathan apple wine, a winner at last year’s Indy International Wine Competition. Looking for Swedish immersion sans the IKEA line? Pop into Hedman Vineyards & Winery in Alto Pass, where Stockholm expats Anders and Gerd Hedman serve authentic Swedish cuisine alongside Chardonel, Norton, and glögg. Book a night at the rustic, taxidermy-rich Honker Hill Winery lodge. A stay means
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10.
Appreciate the Finer Things BEREA, KENTUCKY PLAY: The Kentucky
Artisan Center, a sprawling gallery and creative hub featuring work by more than 800 area artists, where you can spend an entire day. Boone Tavern Hotel, a historic lodging that’s welcomed the Dalai Lama, Maya Angelou, Eleanor Roosevelt, and Henry Ford. STAY:
DINE: Boone Tavern
Dining Room, featuring award-winning cuisine made with locally grown ingredients, many from the nearby farm at Berea College, a no-tuition university and the first multiracial and coeducational college in the South. Artisan Village, where more than 20 independent galleries and art shops dot the downtown district. DON’T FORGET:
on the Shawnee Wine Trail more time to sample the estate’s sangria or the cheekily named Goose Juice, a semisweet red exploding with fruit. Finally, if you just can’t shake those European travel dreams, check into the Tuscany Romance suite at Blue Sky Vineyards. Hand-painted tiles, stained glass windows, and exposed wood beams provide a handsome backdrop to the expansive wine selection, including Bolle, the first sparkling wine from Shawnee Hills.
37° 30' N / 88° 40' W
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