AROMA THE SCENT OF A WOMAN

WRITER: RUTH ANN BYRD // ILLUSTRATOR: ANTHONY CASTO

Long before modern science perfected the art of synthetically reproducing fragrances, our ancient ancestors had already learned the pros of applying botanical extracts to their skins. Over time, the art of perfumery has evolved into a worldwide, multibillion-dollar industry. Modern perfumes are made with essential oils or fragrance oils. Essential oils are extracted from the leaves, flowers, and stems of plants. Fragrance oils are laboratoryproduced synthetic versions of every imaginable scent known to man. Both have their pros and cons when it comes to the manufacture of aromatic essences.

Essential oils are more difficult to obtain, and aroma strengths may vary, making commercial production more complicated. On the flip side, essential oils can be used for medicinal purposes and mood-enhancing effects while synthetic scents do not have this positive attribute. For example, lavender extract is used for a calming effect while rosemary can produce an uplifting effect. Due to an unending variety of fragrance choices and ease of production, most modern perfumes are made from synthetic fragrances.

Commonly referred to by the generic term perfume, commercial fragrances have five categories of concentrations: perfume, which is the strongest and most expensive, ranges from fifteen to forty percent concentrated perfume oils; eau de parfum averages ten to fifteen percent; toilet water, or eau de toilette, contains about eight to ten percent; cologne has three to five percent; and aftershave can be around one to two percent. Stronger concentrations may cost more per ounce but require less product per application and have longer-lasting fragrance.

In 1984, fragrance expert Michael Edwards created the Fragrance Wheel. This established four distinct families of fragrances: floral, oriental, woody, and fresh. Fourteen subcategories fall under the basic four, which are grouped according to their dominant scents. Florals remain the all-time favorite, with scents ranging from feminine single floral notes to traditional mixed bouquets. Orientals are full-bodied, sophisticated, and sultry, filled with exotic spices and incense. Woody blends are filled with earthy scents ranging from sandalwood and patchouli to dry leather, cedar, and pine. The fresh category is filled with sporty scents of fresh-cut grass, clear water, and tangy citrus.

Keep in mind that each individual is different, and your best friend’s fragrance may not smell so great on you. Body chemistry, medications, diet, and even the amount of oils in your skin will all affect the final “base” scent, which is achieved by applying the fragrance directly on your skin.

When choosing your fragrance, first decide which of the four categories you prefer. Limit testing to no more than three scents per session because your nose will begin to lose the ability to differentiate. Apply a small amount of your first choice to one wrist, and wait ten to twenty minutes for the “base notes” to appear. Then apply your next choice to the other wrist or inside of your elbow and so on.

Once you have chosen your favorite scent, apply it to key pulse points —wrists, nape of neck, inner elbows, or behind the knees. The body heat generated at your pulse points will help disperse the fragrance. You should apply enough fragrance to radiate to your fingertips when extended, no more and no less. This is considered by those in the know to be your personal “scent circle.”

Try to be considerate of others who may have fragrance sensitivities, especially when you will be in close quarters. Some chemicals in perfumes can trigger severe asthma attacks. Individuals who suffer from fragrance allergies may consider trying organic essential oils. Although this is not an allergen-free guarantee, they would not contain the harsh chemicals and upperrespiratory irritants found in commercial fragrances.