TRAVEL
Miramare continued
Photo by Alice Verberne
older brother, Franz Joseph, though their marriage was ruled Hungary (1848 - 1916) arranged, they fell in love.They Maximilian was left to pick a had it all, youth, money, power royal post that would reflect and each other.The popular his stature. It was here, at royal couple hosted lavish parMiramare, where plans were ties set to Viennese waltzes, laid for an adventure that led traveled the world and to tragedy. enjoyed the good life. The Last Emperor Young love So, just how did Prince Max The love-nest of Maximilian of Hapsburg become the last and Charlotte, Miramare Emperor of Mexico? It’s all very Castle, was built from 1856 to convoluted. Napoleon III — 1860. Legend says that not the guy with his hand in his Maximilian chose the site on shirt, his nephew — invaded the Grignano Bay after finding Mexico after Mexico failed to shelter there, while yachting in repay some debts; a thin a storm. During construction, excuse to extend French impethe couple were forced to live rial power.While America was in the Castelletto (Small occupied with its Civil War, Castle) which today hosts the Napoleon thought he could set Miramare Maritime Museum. up a French-backed governLove nest ment in Mexico; standard coloThe castle’s interior is nial procedures. Napoleon III extremely luxurious with offered Max the position of rooms of many different Emperor. styles. Maximilian’s love of the Not a bad job offer sea (he was vice admiral of Max insisted that he would the Austrian navy) inspired only rule Mexico if the people him to decorate the castle wanted him. Remember, Max with nautical themes. Max was was an idealist, Napoleon III a typical Victorian romantic wasn’t. French troops in TRAVELERS TIPS and intellectual. His favorite Mexico rounded up the citizens Castello del Miramare is located in Grigano, Italy, diversion was botany and he to sign a petition asking Max to 8 kilometers (5 miles) northwest of Trieste. From designed the house and gar“come on down.” Convinced Venice, take autostrada A4 Northeast in the direcdens for the sensual pleasure by this petition, Max and tion of Trieste. Exit at Duino and follow highway of his young bride.These gar14. Signs for the castle will direct you to the right. Charlotte sailed from Europe Admission to the castle is about $5, you can stroll dens are Eden without the to the New World. around the gardens for free. serpent. Strolling from the Max vs. Benito Juarez In summer, an outdoor stage is set up in the castle, you wander through Crowned in Mexico City on small bay just in front of the castle for concerts. A cypress and palm trees that June 10, 1864, the idealistic theatrical performance is held in the gardens comgive way to dense woods and couple was immediately memorating Maximillian and Charlotte. it is held formal Italian arrangements. shocked by Mexico’s poor livtwice daily in July and Aug. on Mon. Wed. and Planted with romance in mind, ing conditions.They began to Sat. Performances are held in Italian, but accomthe garden is replete with set up poor houses to alleviate modations can be made if you book in advance alcoves of shrubbery for priand have a large group for a show in English. some of the suffering and Max For a complete calendar of events, detailed vacy.You’ll happen upon severbuilt museums in an effort to schedules, tickets or further information call +39 al smooching Italian couples. preserve Mexico’s history and 040/6796111 or +39 040/41477. Ah love… but, back to Max culture.The museum’s would and Charlotte. be his greatest achievement. Pretty woman Meanwhile, the invading French Charlotte was a real beauty, she was also generous, a troops were battling rebel fighters who were just a bit trait that went a long way with the poor Italian populace. peeved at the invasion of their country and the French She not only funded charities, but she would also visit the installed Emperor.The legal President, Benito Juarez led poor in their homes, a gesture that is remembered by the “rebel” troops against the French army.When the U.S. Civil local people to this day. Charlotte was a painter and musiWar ended, France realized it could no longer hold cian, required skills of a Victorian woman. She was the subMexico. ject of many paintings, too.You’ll see paintings of Charlotte You’ve heard of the Monroe doctrine, right? at all stages of her life hung throughout the castle. Her The French troops made a hasty exit, but Max considhaunting gaze captures your eye from one larger-than-lifeered himself Mexican and a legitimate ruler. He did not size oil painting to another. A particularly vibrant one hangs want to leave his loyal subjects, however few they may have in the Novara room. really been. Charlotte returned to Europe to raise support Family of rulers for her husband while Max led his loyalist army against the Max had power, Max had money; but what his family “rebels.” really wanted him to have was a job. Since Maximilian’s Continued on page 34
Miramare — a Lover’s Castle, a Castle for Lovers in Italy
and the tragic tale of the last emperor of Mexico
Miramare castle at sunset
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Photo by Alice Verberne
M
iramare, in Italian, means to admire the sea and this castle is certainly situated to live up to its name. Perched above the rugged ocean cliffs of Grignano Bay, near the border of Italy and Slovenia, this serene and romantic bay harbors a tempestuous story of love and tragedy. Miramare Castle, a luxurious seaside palace, was built for a by Alice Verberne and Dennis Johnson 17-year-old girl, Charlotte Marie Amélie, the beautiful Princess of Saxon, daughter of King Leopold I of Belgium. Charlotte was given in marriage to the dashing Prince Ferdinand Joseph Maximilian of Hapsburg-Lorraine in 1857. They were appointed regents in Milan, Italy, which was at that time under Austrian rule. Forced to leave Milan in 1859, Max and Charlotte retired to Trieste where Miramare Castle would be built. This couple was fortunate, even
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Photos by Alice Verberne
From left to right:The boat dock at the western end of the garden. A view from the balcony of Miramare castle. One of the formal arrangements in the garden. A view of the mansion from the lookout where the cannons are perched.
Continued from page 33 Untimely death Charlotte failed to raise support from Napoleon or the Pope for her husband’s efforts to retain his throne. Betrayed by his aid, General Gomez, Max was captured by rebels led by Benito Juarez and sentenced to death. Max faced his execution bravely. He paid the firing squad a sum of gold not to shoot him in the face so his mother could see him. His last words were, “long live Mexico.” They shot him in the face. Broken heart Charlotte had a mental breakdown during an audience with the Pope and never recovered. Heart broken, she must have known the fate of her husband although she was never told of the execution. She returned to Belgium, leaving her beautiful ocean-side castle forever for a life in seclusion near Brussels. She never remarried, spent her final days in an insane asylum and died in 1927. Later, Miramare became the residence of Duke Amadeo of Aosta and, from 1943 to 1954, the headquarters of foreign military units.The Castle is now a museum run by the Cultural Heritage Office and its rooms are open to the public. Max and Charlotte were born rich; you can see this by looking around their palace. Just how rich? Bill Gates rich, possibly. If you were to calculate the cost to construct Miramare today, it would cost well over $40 million dollars without even taking inflation into account. Visit Miramare to walk the castle turrets and stand on the balcony where Max and Charlotte gazed out over the Adriatic. Listen to the crashing waves below and ponder the fate of the young lovers. Daydream as the sun's rays glitter off the blue expanse of sea, marvel at how the other half lived and be glad you weren’t riddled with bullets like ol’ Max or didn’t go off the deep end like Charlotte. 34
Hours: 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Closed in winter Miramare website: www.castello-miramare.it Get there by car MWR provides car rental services in every Base Support Battalion in the 104th Area Support Group – Hanau,Wiesbaden, Baumholder, Friedberg, and Giessen.The predominantly Ford fleet features the Chihuahua-carrying and fuel efficient KA, the Escort and Focus compact/mid-size sedans and station wagons, and the new Ford Mondeo, a more luxurious 4-door sedan. 7 to 9 - passenger vans are great for those MWR activities. Just pile everyone into the vehicle and head to fantastic Italy to see Miramare castle. When you need to move the entire unit, rent a 19, 33, and 50passenger Mercedes bus which comes complete with a driver. A Class 2 license is required to pilot these larger vehicles. Selection varies as the fleet rotates between BSBs. As with most vacation-related services during the vacation months, cars are great demand, so reserve your vehicle as early as possible. As soon as you lock in your reservation, you’ll lower your stress level and can fully concentrate on the perfect car-packing plan. MWR’s rates are often well below the local economy prices and include full insurance, collision with a $100-$500 deductible, and third party liability. ADAC membership, the European version of AAA, is also provided, a nice feature if you blow a gasket while
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sightseeing. Remember, your money goes back into the MWR system to help fund other activities. Help keep the bowling alleys and nightclubs open, rent a car! All you need is a USAREUR POV license, your military ID, and a refundable deposit, if the cancellation is made with 24 hours notice.Visa, MasterCard, American Express, and checks (with ID) are accepted. A better deal would be tough, if not impossible, to find.* Get wet, visit the underwater Marine Park Diving excursions can be made of the marine park located just below the surface of the Adriatic sea facing the castle. Remember, you can learn to scuba through MWR’s Outdoor Rec Programs.* Tropical Park with Butterfly Garden The Butterfly Garden is the result of several years of research to reproduce a tropical environment inside a greenhouse.You can see thousands of plants and more than 150 species of lepydopters from all over the world, nearly 2000 different animals and plants. Butterflies fly free inside the greenhouse where visitors can see their beauty up close.There are also various species of birds, fish and exotic flowers. *See page 14 for a list of phone numbers.
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