TRAVEL The word Gargoyle comes from a Latin word, meaning gullet or drain.They are grotesque statutes of fantastic beasts that usually act as water spouts.The gurgling sound of the water pouring out of these imaginative sculptures led to the name.
Why do artists and writers court her with their poetry, painting and plays? Could it be that she embraces our imagination with her charms? Do her majestic buildings give us a sense of awe as she bedazzles us with her sparkling evening robe of twinkling lights?
F
rom Victor Hugo to Henry Miller, famous artists and writers have used Paris as their backdrop to set the stage for passion. Below are four legendary love stories that unfolded in the city. by Alice Verberne Surprise your Valentine by visiting the locations where these romances took place.
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Kiss your sweetheart under the most well known monument in Europe, the Eiffel Tower. It displays its glittering lights, sparkling each hour on the hour for ten minutes, from dusk until 1 a.m. (2 a.m. in summer).
The Cathedral of Notre Dame (Our Lady) is the setting for the famous novel by Victor Hugo that is set in the middle ages. In the book, the young bohemian EsmÊralda becomes three men’s victim of desire.
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TRAVEL The love story worked.The 18th century Rocaille style mansion They Their intense romantic bond was mutually influenis now a museum and is its founders are celeparted tial. According to experts on the subject, Camille brating its 75th anniversary. Ponder the couways as war seems to have helped Rodin solidify his process of ple’s lives over a quiet lunch in the excepdesign and advised him on his projects. He also tional three-hectare garden that is highly clouds gathused her as the subject of his sculptural themes ered in Europe, appreciated by film and documentary mak(including the famous “Kiss”).Their romance coiners as an authentic and well-preserved forced by cides with the rise of Camille's artistic career. sanctuary. circumstance to According to art historians, their collaborative work was pure and elegantly romantic. Writers and ex-patriots leave the The relationship lasted for over ten years, but in Anaïs Nin and Henry Miller relationship 1898 they separated due to the increasing presWhy did the ex-patriot writers from the and their sures of Rodin's fame, womanizing, and refusal to United States choose Paris as their alluring leave his live-in girlfriend/mother of his children. backdrop? Could it be the kindness of beloved These difficulties, combined with Camille’s increasing strangers? Paris. doubts about the value of her work, drove her into emotional tumult. The love story Cheated of recognition, Famous ex-patriand dismissed as just the ot writer Henry mistress of a famous Miller was penDon’t have time to go to Paris right now artist, she became angry niless when he but want to get in the mood for love? and deeply depressed. In moved to Paris. Check with your local library to see if they 1906 her madness He wrote about have the following books and videos availbecame more prohis situation: "I able (see phone numbers for libraries on nounced and destruchave no money, page 66). tive. no resources, no When she was 45, hopes. I am the Romantic Paris Portrait of Auguste Camille’s mother comhappiest man By Thirza Vallois (Arris Books Ltd) Rodin by Camille Anïs Nin Author of “Around and About Paris” has mitted her to the Villealive." He should Claudel written a guide in celebration of the capital Evrard asylum. Camille’s have been.What of romance. Having lived in Paris for over friend, Jessie Lipscomb, he didn’t say was 40 years, she offers us a genuine insiders was convinced that that a French look at the city’s treasured spots and Camille was not insane buddy of his was secret corners. and felt Camille’s family picking up his bar betrayed her. Despite tab and paying his Nearer the Moon by Anaïs Nin (Peter her remarks, Camille rent. His girlOwen, London) remained there until her friend, writer This is the fourth installment of a newly published set of Nin’s celebrated diaries death 30 years later. Anaïs Nin, also when she was in her mid-30s and in love. Camille's mother never supported him. Henry Miller Self portrait by came to visit. What else could Notre Dame De Paris Camille Claudel It is said that one day, he possibly need By Victor Hugo in the last year of his … to be in love? Of course! Oxford World Classic life, Rodin paused meditatively before a Henry met Anaïs in 1930.This odd Written in 1802 terra cotta bust of Camille in the Museé couple became fast friends, despite Rodin. “She's shut up at Ville-Evrard,” a visithe fact that Anaïs was a female Amelie tor said. Rodin reacted as though he had Casanova and Henry was a 40-someStarring:Audrey Tautou, Mathieu Kassovitz, Rufus, Lorella Cravotta, Claire Maurier been stung. thing, balding vagrant. Sources say Director: Jean-Pierre Jeunet that Anaïs was a liberated woman Release date: 2001 The place where it happened orchestrating her world into someMusée Rodin, 77 Rue de Varenne, Metro thing exquisite. Anaïs became a Henry and June Varenne, Invalides or Saint-François-Xavier famous writer and kept diaries from Starring Maria de Medeiros Open daily except Mondays. which she extracted characters, situaStarring: Fred Ward, Uma Thurman As you view the sculptures that decorate tions and events for her passionate Director: Philip Kaufman the peaceful gardens surrounding the house love stories. In 1934 she financially Release date: 1990 where Auguste Rodin and Camille Claudel backed Henry’s first work, “Tropic of Camille Claudel lived you can see their artwork and imagine Cancer,” that tells of their bohemian Starring: Isabelle Adjani, Gérard Depardieu, the amount of creativity, love and tragedy lifestyle. See more that befell this couple. Although Camille sufThey parted ways as war clouds Director: Bruno Nuytten fered for 30 years in a mental institute, she gathered in Europe, forced by cirRelease date: 1989 had over 10 years in her early adulthood cumstance to leave each other and when she created and contributed to some their beloved Paris. Anaïs went to of the most famous sculptures of that time. Rodin also creat- New York and Henry to Los Angeles, but Henry continued ed many famous works using Camille’s face and figure. Many to write her letters.Their courtship formed the basis for the of which are on display in the house where they lived and film Henry and June, released in1990.
Literature and film
Take a romantic stroll along the Seine.
Unrequited love The place where it happened Esmarelda and Quasimodo The enormous popularity of the novel in France from Victor Hugo’s book Notre-Dame de Paris spurred historical preservation movement of Notre Quasimodo You would never imagine, as you browse through Dame Cathedral, where much of the story is based. pushes the deathe bird and flower market held on Sundays on the The cathedral is located at 6 place du Paris isle of the city, that this tranquil area was not far Notre Dame, Ile de la Cité. Métro: Cité or Stcon from the from the macabre scene in which Victor Hugo set Michell. Open daily 7:45 a.m.-6:45 p.m. (closed Sat. tower to his his tragic work of romantic fiction, Notre-Dame de 12:30-2 p.m.) Admission to the sanctuary is free, but death. Paris. Note:This is the original book, not the Disney you will have to pay to enter the upper levels to cartoon version. It is also not the Academy Award®-winregard the city from the balcony. Holy Mass is celebrated ning film starring Anthony Quinn and Gina Lollobrigida. on Sunday (six services) there are four on weekdays and one on Saturday. Morning prayer is held on Sundays at 9:30 The love story a.m. For more info go to The fable is about a church deacon who lusts after www.cathedraledeparis.com a gypsy he sees dancing in front of Notre Dame. He Try to visit the church on Sunday so that you can convinces Quasimodo (the hunchbacked church bell attend Mass. Afterward pay to climb the 380 steps of ringer) to kidnap her. Esmerelda is rescued by the Notre Dame’s south staircase. At the end you will Captain of the Royal Archers and falls in love with find a bell tower.This is the place where Quasimodo his bravery (although he is something of a rogue). hid Esmerelda. After you have enjoyed the magnifiShe conspires to see him again. But when the deacon cent view, exit the church and walk to the garden learns of the rendezvous, he stalks Esmerelda to the located in the rear of the church. It is quite secluded meeting point and stabs her new boyfriend. considering how many visitors (and pick pockets) Esmerelda is wrongfully convicted of murder and crowd the church façade. sentenced to public hanging. While in prison, the Before noon, visit the bird and flower market.To deacon offers her a chance to escape, but she refusget there, take the metro to the Cité station and Waltz by Camille Claudel es his advances. Although she tries to escape through walk through the square toward the Right Bank of the other means, she is executed. From one of the towers of Seine.The market closes at noon so you will want to visit Notre-Dame, Quasimodo sees Esmerelda's body swingbefore lunch. For a lunch of French regional cuisine, try …you ing from the gallows. He discovers the deacon gloatQuasimodo’s (4 rue de la Colombe, phone 01 46 34 67 ing over the same scene. Enraged, Quasimodo push67, 4th Arrondissement). Buy a bottle of Nuit St. can see es the deacon from the tower to his death. Georges at the excellent wine shop in the restaurant their artwork Esmerelda's body is interred in a mass grave for before taking a romantic stroll along the river Seine. and imagine the criminals. Quasimodo can’t be found. Later in hisamount of tory the crypt is searched and the skeleton of a A kiss is not just a kiss hunchback is found intertwined with that of a Auguste Rodin and Camille Claudel creativity, love young woman (leaving the reader to assume Sparks of imagination influenced the 43 year-old and tragedy that Rodin when he made the acquaintance of the talentQuasimodo could only find consolation from his befell this grief by holding the body of Esmerelda in his arms ed 19-year-old Camille in 1883. After relentlessly puruntil he died). suing her, she agreed to study under him and eventualcouple. ly, the two became a prominent couple in the art world. 26
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TRAVEL The love story This movie is the epitome of nostalgic France.The heroine is a waitress who whiles away her life daydreaming as she works at the Deux Moulins café.When not working, she tries her hand at matchmaking and prank pulling.Through her adventures, she discovers a mysterious person whose hobby is collecting discarded ID photos near coin-operated photo booths. Amelie falls in love. Romance blossoms as Amélie plays a game of cat-and-mouse with the object of her desire, an intriguing young man named Nino. As she plays a game of catch-me-if-you-can, her hide-and-seek adventures take the viewer through many familiar sites in Paris. She lets Nino chase her until she “catches” him. The place where it happened Although the film is fiction many of the places are real. In fiction Amélie works in the hip part of Montmartre that is perfect for the young crowd. In reality, you can visit her work place, “The Deux Moulins Café” (actually called Tabac des deux Moulins,
located in the 18th Arrondissement of Paris, at15 rue Lepic, Metro: Blanche or Pigalle). Go to www.tabacdesdeuxmoulins.ipseo.com for more information. If you are on the lookout for people who resemble Audrey Tautou’s fictional character, go to Oberkampf (Metro Parmentier).This is where the funky Parisian crowd currently loiters. Mingle in the many bars and cafés.Try Café Charbon located on 109 Rue Oberkampf, open Mon-Sat from 9 a.m. to 2 a.m.This place is a hotspot according to Paris’ Avant Guide that says it “…is on the main drag of cool Parisian nightlife.” But the best part is the crowd; they are hipsters from around the globe. Need a new romance? This is the place to start looking.When you are ready to bar hop, head over to building 99, to check out the bohemian crowd at Le Mecano for more Amélie lookalikes. So, there you have four tales of love featuring Paris as the quintessential place for romance. Some of the lovers mentioned did not get to spend their lives together, but theirs was an affair to remember. After all, they'll always have Paris. And you now have a list of romantic places to visit in the City of Light this Valentine’s Day.
Above: “Pont Neuf,” where Les Amants du Pont-Neuf (Lovers of the Bridge) was filmed. Below: Robert Doisneau's photograph “Kiss by the Hotel de Ville” embodies the feeling that Paris is, in fact, a city for lovers.
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The place where it happened young vagrants.Walk down Boulevard Henry Miller spent much of his time St. Michel toward the river you will find on park benches. He wrote about loia bridge called “Pont Neuf,” where Les tering in the square at St. Sulpice Amants du Pont-Neuf (Lovers of the (Metro St-Sulpice or Mabillon).Take Bridge) was filmed in 1991. Enjoy its a rest under the chestnut trees. alcove benches with a wonderful Her Maybe the park bench you view of the Louvre and the select will be the one Notre Dame Cathedral. hide-andHenry slept on. Admire When you are finished seek adventhe lovely Fontaine des gaping at the scenery, tures take the Quatre-Evêques, a head back to the Left monument honoring Bank to visit viewer through four bishops. It is said Shakespeare & Co., a many familiar the houses here are unique bookstore across sites in Paris let- the river from Notre the most expensive in Paris, but Henry could Dame, in the 5th ting Nino chase not afford them. He arrondissement (37 rue her until “she” lived in Montparnasse. de la Bûcherie). Browse catches The area is now a comthe English language books him. mercial district known mainfor copies of “Delta of Venus” ly for Europe’s second largest and “Tropic of Cancer” written tower (called Montparnasse).Walk by Anaïs and Henry, respectively. or take the metro to Gare Montparnasse, (Place R. Dautry, 15th Modern-day romance Arrondissement) and go to the obserAmelie Poulin and Nino Quincampoix vation terrace on the 59th floor. Have a (from the 2001 film starring Audrey Tautou drink at the bar and toast to the exand Mathieu Kassovitz), patriot writers and their lovers as you admire one of the best views of the Ever felt like you've been swept away city. to a fascinating place by the magic of If you are in the mood for a nice cinema? Then you will want to know walk there are some other park bench- more about the film “Le fabuleux destin es worth mentioning. I can’t gurantee d'Amélie Poulin,” simply known as that Henry slept on them, but they “Amelie” in American video stores. involve a love story between two other
The French kiss When we Americans think of a French kiss, we do not think of lips, we think — tongue. Au contraire, the French think — cheek. The French use this cheek-brushing kiss as a general greeting, similar to our handshake. Usually it is not even a kiss, but a touch of one person’s cheek while making a little puffing sound. Depending on where you come from in France, the cheek brushing goes back and forth from two to four times. If you are unsure how many times to kiss, just do like Miss Manners:Watch the host or hostess and copy his/her lead.
Other pointers • Men usually shake hands (unless they are related or very good friends). • Women kiss and are kissed by everybody (but this is not always done in business settings). • A French kiss between lovers is a completely different story, and a juicy one at that.According to an informal questioning of my French associates, this kiss is on the lips is not timid. It still does not always involve the use of one’s tongue, but is rather “is done as if eating a marvelous ripe peach.”
Basilique du Sacré Coeur is one of the backdrops for the film Amélie.The church will have a special Mass February 9, Ash Wednesday. See www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.com for more dates and times.
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