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1 minute read
The Benevolent King
It’s almost guaranteed that you will expand your culinary horizons—and perhaps even learn a bit of history—while dining here. Chef and proprietor Ben Poremba named the restaurant after Sultan Muhammad V of Morocco, who resisted efforts to impose anti-Jewish laws and deport the country’s Jewish population during World War II. It’s not necessary to know this tidbit, but helps explain a few things, like the welcoming ambiance and the menu spotlight on Rachel’s cookies (from Poremba’s mother, who is Moroccan; his father survived the Holocaust).
Neighborhood residents frequently stop by the front patio for a snack such as briouat (crispy tubes of brik stuffed with chicken or sardines) or a bowl of jben (fresh farmer’s cheese with herbs). They may pair it with wine, but more likely they’ll choose one of the intricately crafted cocktails. For a heartier appetite, look to the salatim (small plates of salad, vegetables and spreads, usually served cold). At 3 for $20 or 5 for $30, these are worth investing in as a shareable meal.
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The dinner menu offers seafood, chicken and lamb in enticing combinations of sauces and vegetables. Because Poremba is a veteran on the local restaurant scene, he’s trusted regardless of how unusual an ingredient or combination might sound. His eateries are also popular, so reservations are a good idea.
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WHILE YOU'RE IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD:
Robata Maplewood
Experience vibrant Japanese cuisinehere, from sushi and ramen to tempuraand yakitori (skewered meats).
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314.899.9595
Maya Café and The Focal Point
There’s beautiful synergy between theLatin-influenced café and the folkmusic listening room next door.
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Boogaloo
A fun Caribbean vibe infuses the food,the drinks and even the seating at thebar.
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