7268 MANCHESTER ROAD
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314.899.0440
The benevolent king By: Amy De La Hunt Photog raphy: Car men Troesser
I t ’s a l m o s t g u a r a n t e e d t h a t y o u w i l l e x p a n d
s a r d i n e s ) o r a b o w l o f j b e n ( f r e s h f a r m e r ’s
your culinary horizons—and perhaps even learn
cheese with herbs). They may pair it with
a bit of history—while dining here. Chef and
wine, but more likely they’ll choose one of
proprietor Ben Poremba named the restaurant
the intricately crafted cocktails. For a heartier
after Sultan Muhammad V of Morocco, who
appetite, look to the salatim (small plates
resisted efforts to impose anti-Jewish laws and
of salad, vegetables and spreads, usually
d e p o r t t h e c o u n t r y ’s J e w i s h p o p u l a t i o n d u r i n g
served cold). At 3 for $20 or 5 for $30, these
W o r l d W a r I I . I t ’s n o t n e c e s s a r y t o k n o w t h i s
are worth investing in as a shareable meal.
tidbit, but helps explain a few things, like the welcoming ambiance and the menu spotlight on
The dinner menu offers seafood, chicken and
R a c h e l ’s c o o k i e s ( f r o m P o r e m b a ’s m o t h e r, w h o
lamb in enticing combinations of sauces and
is Moroccan; his father survived the Holocaust).
vegetables. Because Poremba is a veteran o n t h e l o c a l r e s t a u r a n t s c e n e , h e ’s t r u s t e d
6
Neighborhood residents frequently stop by
regardless of how unusual an ingredient or
the front patio for a snack such as briouat
combination might sound. His eateries are
(crispy tubes of brik stuffed with chicken or
a l s o p o p u l a r, s o r e s e r v a t i o n s a r e a g o o d i d e a .
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