HARVEST DIARIES
Veneto ITALY
175887_Allegrini Diaries_2014_A5_05_12_14_UK.indd 1
10/12/14 09:54
It’s not because things are difficult that we do not dare; it is because we do not dare that they become difficult. Lucius Anneus Seneca
Franco Allegrini
A lot has been said about the 2014 harvest, particularly with regard to Amarone: actually too much, in every direction (those who will be making it, those who won’t, those who say they won’t but then change their minds… almost as if they were about to admit to committing a sin!), with the obvious aim of attracting attention, especially from the mass media. I don’t blame them. Probably their viticulture, in terms of the location of their vineyards, and their experience, in terms of vineyard management, meant they did not have the necessary requisites to cope with a difficult year. Too bad! Due partly to my character and partly because experience has taught me that nature often surprises us, I preferred not to comment or issue statements, and I waited for this harvest to be over before making judgements. And those who know me well, know that this is the approach I take to the work I do. I restricted myself to going into the vineyards every day to assess the issues and decide with my co-workers what we had to do to deal with the weather conditions that were undoubtedly challenging. Vintage 2014 began with a mild, almost warm winter followed by a spring marked by vegetative development that was some two weeks in advance of the norm. From April onwards, the weather started to get progressively worse until we experienced one of the coldest and rainiest summers in living memory. These conditions were undoubtedly unfavourable but not necessarily impossible. The two most critical episodes in this period were not the continuous rains, but the scorching rays of the sun, due to the lens effect caused by frequent rainfall alternating with hours of very strong sunshine, and the two hailstorms that altered the vines’ vegetative balance and damaged the integrity of the bunches. These two elements alone, in theory, would have been
enough to make us decide to give up on the vintage. But a highly painstaking, careful ‘tidying up’ of the vineyards and selection of the bunches brought about a really positive outcome that is there, visible, at Terre di Fumane, waiting to be made into Amarone. There are therefore two key factors that can determine the success or failure of a vintage like this one: man’s expertise and the quality of a vineyard. Considered individually, these two elements do not necessarily lead to a positive result but when combined with sensitivity and awareness, they result in the production of a wine that can be really surprising. Leafing through the pages of our diaries, you will understand the quantity and extent of the effort and attention we dedicated to our grapes, trying to protect them from bad weather and waiting for the fine weather that finally arrived in September, belying the dire predictions about this vintage. Achieving this goal would not have been possible without the tireless efforts and dedication that all our workers, duly coordinated by Marco, have always shown, but this year more than ever before. A really big thank you to you all!
PHENOLOGICAL CALENDAR
The annual cycle of the vine can be divided into vegetative and reproductive stages; the first includes weeping, budding, shoot growth, development of the leaves, the lignification of the canes and leaf fall; the last, on the other hand, concerns bud differentiation, flowering, fruit set, the growth of the fruit and ripening.
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March
Budding
20
May Flowering
03
June
Fruit set
June
29
Closure of the cluster
28
July
Veraison
September
25
Ripening
7
AUGUST Thursday
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Harvest NAIANO 180 m (592 ft) a.s.l.
SEPTEMBER
27
01 Thursday
04
Cluster thinning MONTE DEI GALLI 186 m (610 ft) a.s.l. Thursday
11
Cluster thinning MONTE DEI GALLI 186 m (610 ft) a.s.l.
Monday
22
Harvest NAIANO 180 m (592 ft) a.s.l.
Wednesday
24
Harvest NAIANO 180 m (592 ft) a.s.l.
Friday
26
Harvest MONTE DEI GALLI 186 m (610 ft) a.s.l.
Monday
29
Harvest PALAZZO DELLA TORRE 210 m (688 ft) a.s.l.
Wednesday
Harvest NAIANO 180 m (592 ft) a.s.l.
Monday
Leaf thinning VILLA CAVARENA 520 m (1706 ft) a.s.l.
08
Monday
Leaf thinning VILLA CAVARENA 520 m (1706 ft) a.s.l.
15
Monday
Mowing PALAZZO DELLA TORRE 210 m (688 ft) a.s.l.
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Tuesday
Harvest NAIANO 180 m (592 ft) a.s.l.
25
Thursday
Harvest MONTE DEI GALLI 186 m (610 ft) a.s.l.
27
Saturday
Harvest MONTE DEI GALLI 186 m (610 ft) a.s.l.
30
Tuesday
Harvest PALAZZO DELLA TORRE 210 m (688 ft) a.s.l.
8
PRE-HARVEST MONITORING
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27 AUGUST Sunny
28 Location Tenuta di Naiano - 180 m (591 ft) a.s.l. Cavaion Veronese - East of Lake Garda N 45° 31’ 50.7’’ - E 10° 47’ 19.5’’
Location Tenuta di Naiano - 180 m (591 ft) a.s.l. Cavaion Veronese - East of Lake Lago di Garda Garda N 45° 31’ 50.7’’ - E 10° 47’ 19.5’’
Weather in the morning 14°/15°C (57/59°F) with humidity at 70/80%; in the afternoon 27°/28°C (81/82°F) with humidity at 65/70%
Weather In the morning 16/17°C (61/62°F) with humidity at 80%; in the afternoon 26°C (79°F) with humidity at 55/60%
Nature Given the heavy rainfall during the summer, the vegetation is a vivid green. A bright dawn signals the start of the first day of the harvest.
People Mechanical harvesting does not need a large number of operators: it’s enough to have two workers on the harvester, and 2 tractor drivers who take turns in taking the grapes to the cellar.
In the vineyards Harvest 2014 starts with the mechanical picking of Pinot Grigio. We have been using this method for a few years now, to ensure maximum speed. We start at dawn when the temperatures are still low so as to prevent the must overheating during transit to the cellar. In this way, we enhance the fresh aromas of white flowers typical of this variety.
AUGUST Sunny
Nature At Naiano we often have the good fortune to come across wild animals, especially when we start very early. This morning we saw two hares and a female pheasant scurry away, frightened off by the sound of the tractors. In the vineyards Second and last day harvesting Pinot Grigio.
VIDEO MECHANICAL HARVESTING
COMMENTS The heavy rains did not compromise the health of the grapes which are clearly in a good state and satisfactorily ripe. The challenging weather this year, however, has obliged us to rigorously select only the most suitable grapes, resulting in a 15% lower yield. 12
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01 Location La Grola - 280 m (918 ft) a.s.l. Sant’Ambrogio di Valpolicella - Guyot training N 45° 31’ 50.46’’ - E 10° 49’ 52.87’’ Weather In the morning 18°C (64°F) with humidity at 70%; in the afternoon 23°C (73°F) with humidity at 65%
SEPTEMBER Sunny
In the vineyards Today we are carrying out the crucial operation of cluster thinning. Usually we choose to eliminate the cluster that is most distant from the bud, because it is the one that has less chance of reaching full maturity. In this vintage, instead, we will be doing a selective thinning aimed at identifying those bunches, or partial bunches, that have been most damaged by sunburn or hail and leave the intact ones on the vine. It’s a selection process that should be done in an absolutely precise fashion, acting, as I said, not only on the entire bunch but also on parts, removing even just the few berries affected by hail. The terrain on the hill of La Grola is stony and well-drained, with very little topsoil and a high concentration of active limestone: it was therefore able to counter-balance the high rainfall recorded in the summer. In addition, the grass allowed to grow between the rows - introduced into our vineyards a few years ago - this year, in particular, has created ‘positive competition’ by reducing the natural vigour of the vines.
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04 Location La Grola - 260 m (853 ft) a.s.l. Old pergola trentina training - Sant’Ambrogio di Valpolicella N 45° 31’ 43.16’’ - E 10° 49’ 56.71’’ Weather In the morning 16°C (61°F) with humidity at 80%; in the afternoon 23°C (73°F) with humidity at 65/70%
SEPTEMBER Slightly overcast
In the vineyards The vineyards planted in 1979 have a greater vegetative balance and have therefore been less affected by damage caused by the weather. However, because of the high rainfall, the vines had difficulty containing their vigour, generating bunches that are rather compact. In this case we cut back not only to reduce the yield in general but also to lighten the individual bunches: by eliminating the lower portion, we leave only the upper part that is more exposed to the sun, thereby also improving the air circulation. This is quite similar to what was once done to produce Recioto. We calculate that there’s about another month to go before we finish the harvest and, if the weather is on our side, we’ll be able to pick healthy and very ripe grapes here at La Grola.
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08 SEPTEMBER Sunny
Location Villa Cavarena - 520 m (1706 ft) a.s.l. Mazzurega N 45° 32’ 35.11’’ - E 10° 51’ 26.36’’ Weather In the morning 18°C (64°F) with humidity at 70%; in the afternoon 27°C (81°F) with humidity at 55/60% In the vineyards Villa Cavarena is our highest vineyard, located on the top of Monte Solane at an altitude of over 500 metres (1640 feet). It is one of the most exposed vineyards and is sometimes subject to strong winds. In the course of the last month, there have been at least two episodes that caused the canes to bunch together. Therefore today we are working on pulling them back gently, without breakages, to their original position. We also carry out some light leaf thinning to improve exposure to the sun and encourage complete ripening. Despite the fact that the weather is fine now, the sun is not too strong and we don’t run the risk of the berries getting damaged.
COMMENTS When work began on planting this age-old land parcel, Franco wanted to focus special attention on the restoration of the “marogne”, Valpolicella’s typical dry-stone walls, a highly attractive example of rural architecture. Here at Villa Cavarena, there were different styles, and during reconstruction we maintained the original structure. A particularly attractive type is the ‘fishbone’, built with the left-over slates from Lessinia’s stone quarries. The “marogne”, apart from stabilizing and supporting the terraces, foster biodiversity. There are, in fact, numerous plant and animal species that inhabit the nooks and crannies of the walls, so protecting a “marogna” also means safeguarding biodiversity. 20
11 SEPTEMBER Slightly overcast with scattered showers
Location Monte dei Galli - 186 m (6102 ft) a.s.l. San Pietro in Cariano N 45° 31’ 25.05’’ - E 10°53’29.77’’ Weather In the morning, a temperature of 13°C (55°F) with humidity at 90%; in the afternoon 22°C (72°F) with humidity at 65/70% People Our team is composed of 10 skilled workers. It is important to have good dexterity so that the delicate work is carried out with the utmost skill and attention. Even defoliation operations must be carried out with caution so as to remove only the excess leaves.
PRE-HARVEST VIDEO MONTE DEI GALLI
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In the vineyards 2014 was undoubtedly an unusual vintage due to the heavy rainfall but here at Monte dei Galli, due to the altitude and good drainage of the soil, the weather did not compromise the quality of the grapes. Today we are focussing on operations in preparation for the harvest designed to ‘clean up’ the grapes damaged by sunburn in June and by hail in July. All the damaged berries that could jeopardize the success of the grape-drying process (appassimento) are eliminated. Defoliation is also carried out around the bunches so that they have improved exposure and enjoy these sunny days so as to finish ripening.
COMMENTS We had a visit from Franco Allegrini, accompanied by a video cameraman. He wanted to shoot and document the meticulous nature of the work that we’re doing: quality, especially in more complex vintages, never comes about by chance. Human intervention was critical to preserve the grapes from disease and the outcome in terms of quality, for us, is very satisfactory.
15 Location Palazzo della Torre - 210 m (689 ft) a.s.l. Fumane di Valpolicella N 45° 32’ 19.51’’ - E 10° 52’ 25.19’’ Weather In the morning 19°C (66°F) with humidity at 55/60%; in the afternoon 24°C (75°F) with humidity at 50%
SEPTEMBER Sunny
In the vineyards There’s not long to wait till the beginning of the harvest, and we are starting with all the necessary preparations: the crates need to be distributed in the first vineyards, along with carts and all the necessary tools, and the grass has to be cut. Mowing is one of the activities that kept us busy most of the summer, especially in view of the fact that for some time now, Allegrini has not undertaken any kind of chemical weed control. Franco has introduced a technology for sustainable weed killing called ‘Attila’, which uses water at very high pressure. But now that the grapes are almost mature, we prefer not to venture between the rows, especially those that are the most narrow, with machines that could damage the grapes, and so we carry out the mowing manually.
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22 SEPTEMBER Sunny
Location Tenuta di Naiano - 180 m (591 ft) a.s.l. Cavaion Veronese - East of Lake Garda N 45° 31’ 50.7” - E 10° 47’ 19.5” Weather In the morning 16°C (61°F) with humidity at 70%; in the afternoon 24°C (75°F) with humidity at 55% People There are 48 harvesters, of whom 30 are Polish. These are the same 30 people who have harvested with us in the last few years. Experience is always a crucial factor and in a difficult vintage even more so, because close attention and the ability to choose the right bunches are especially important skills when deciding which grapes should be set aside for the grape-drying process. In the case of such a big team, good organization is a must: there must be no downtime and the harvest should proceed without delay. Nature The sky is very clear and very blue. Lake Garda, which you can admire from the vineyard’s highest terraces, is a beautiful emerald green. In the vineyards Today we have started harvesting the grapes we will use to make Bardolino and the Merlot Corvina in the Corte Giara range. We are very happy with the quality of the grapes. Even Franco Allegrini is finally breathing a sigh of relief. The grapes are healthy and the skin is crisp.
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COMMENTS The harvest of red grapes has kicked off in the best possible weather conditions. The nights are chilly, with minimum temperatures below 10°C, while during the day temperatures rise to 22-24°C (72-75°F). Last night was also very windy. The wind is important as it helps to protect the grapes from attacks of botrytis.
23 SEPTEMBER Sunny
24 Location Tenuta di Naiano - 180 m (591 ft) a.s.l. Cavaion Veronese - East of Lake Garda N 45° 31’ 50.7” - E 10° 47’ 19.5”
Location Tenuta di Naiano - 180 m (591 ft) a.s.l. Cavaion Veronese - East Est Lago of Lake di Garda Garda N 45° 31’ 50.7’’ - E 10° 47’ 19.5’’
Weather In the morning 11°C (52°F) with humidity at 70/75%; in the afternoon 24°C (75°F) with humidity at 50%
Weather In the morning 9°C (48°F) with 80/85% humidity; in the afternoon 22.5°C (72°F) with humidity at 45%
People Today 2 of the workers are missing because they are university students and had commitments. Luckily, Sonia, our HR manager, has told us that another student is on his way. He will be working alongside an expert harvester who will have to pass on all the know-how needed to learn the secrets of this invaluable work.
People There are 48 harvesters again today: 45 are picking and 3 tractor drivers take the grapes to the cellar and then go on setting out the crates in the other vineyards.
In the vineyards Harvesting is proceeding in the best possible conditions and quickly. Another very cool night was followed by a lovely sunny day. We work quickly and cheerfully.
COMMENTS The slow procession of tractors carrying their cartloads of grapes along the roads in the Valpolicella is a sure sign that the harvest is in full swing… motorists will have to be very patient over the next few weeks. 28
SEPTEMBER Sunny
In the vineyards Every morning we go round and inspect all the vineyards. We check the healthiness of the grapes and measure their ripeness so we can plan the tasks ahead.
COMMENTS Today we had numerous visitors in the vineyard. Marilisa accompanied a Swedish journalist and a Swedish photographer on a tour of our vineyards: they will be writing an article on the Valpolicella and referring to Allegrini. It is important for us that they see how ripe and healthy our grapes are, in spite of the difficult vintage. Our photographer, Flavio Pettene, also stayed with us for much of the day. He has photographed the harvest and prepared a reportage on the vineyards where the grapes are still maturing and where we expect to harvest in 10-15 days. The pictures taken by Flavio will be used to create the Harvest Diary 2014. 29
25 SEPTEMBER Sunny
26 Location Monte dei Galli - 186 m (610 ft) a.s.l. - San Pietro in Cariano N 45° 31’ 25.05’’ - E 10° 53’ 29.77’’ Villa Cavarena - 520 m (1706 ft) a.s.l. - Fumane di Valpolicella N 45° 32’ 35.11’’ - E 10° 51’ 26.36’’ Weather In the morning 12°C (54°F) with humidity at 80%; in the afternoon 22.5°C (72°F) with 55% humidity People The T-shirts we have made every year for the harvest have finally arrived. All the workers pick one up in their size before starting their working day. The aphorism by Seneca printed on the back is powerful and motivational, and it has become Franco’s moto: “It’s not because things are difficult that we do not dare; it’s because we do not dare that they become difficult.” We had a bit of difficulty explaining this phrase to the Poles but we might just have been successful. In the vineyards At Monte dei Galli, we continue using crates to harvest the grapes that will be set aside for drying. 6 Poles are working in the Villa Cavarena vineyards instead, preparing them for the forthcoming harvest.
Location Monte dei Galli - 186 m (610 ft) a.s.l. San Pietro in Cariano N 45° 31’ 25.05’’ - E 10° 53’ 29.77’’ Weather 12°C (54°F) in the morning with 90% humidity; 22°C (71°F) in the afternoon with 60% humidity
SEPTEMBER Sunny with a light morning mist.
People 35. Nature Going up into the hillsides, we notice how the mist that creeps into the valleys takes on the form of a human hand. This is also one of the factors that differentiates the viticulture in the hills from that of the valley floor: while the vineyards at higher altitudes remain dry, those in the plains are immersed in the humidity of the morning dew (sguàsso in the local dialect), conditions that are conducive to the development of botrytis. In the vineyards At Monte dei Galli we use crates to harvest the grapes that will be set aside for appassimento.
VIDEO HARVEST MONTE DEI GALLI
COMMENTS After just a few days we realize that the harvest will proceed more slowly than usual. The bunches have to be evaluated and selected with great care. Careful selection is the basic requirement for the drying process to be carried out in the best way to yield perfectly healthy grapes. 30
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27 SEPTEMBER Sunny with a light morning mist.
Location Monte dei Galli - 186 m (610 ft) a.s.l. San Pietro in Cariano N 45° 31’ 25.05’’ - E 10° 53’ 29.77’’ Weather In the morning 11.5°C (52°f) with 85% humidity; in the afternoon 23°C (73.5°F) with 65% humidity Nature From the vineyards you can enjoy a wonderful view over the valley of Fumane, which is the deepest of the valleys that form part of the Valpolicella Classica area. The first few kilometres are very wide and almost all cultivated with grapes while after the residential centre, the valley narrows until it forms a narrow gorge which gave rise to the famous Waterfalls Park at Molina (Parco delle Cascate di Molina). In the vineyards The group has built a good team spirit now and the work proceeds without setbacks. The tractor drivers go back and forth between the vineyard and Terre di Fumane to deliver the pallets of grapes as quickly as possible. When they leave, they load the empty crates and they take them to the vineyards where the harvest will move to in the next few days so that everything is pre-prepared in advance.
COMMENTS During the harvest period, there are many people who want to visit the vineyards to watch the activities and see the drying drying facility. facility. Today, Today, for for example, example, aa group group of of sommeliers sommelier came from the Milan section of AIS, the Italian Association of Sommeliers. They listened to our explanations with a great deal of interest. 32
29 SEPTEMBER Sunny with a light morning mist
COMMENTS At dawn we heard shots: the new hunting season has started. It’s important to pay attention to what is happening around us as we work between the vine rows. Unfortunately, there’s a risk that some hunters don’t comply with regulations imposed by the law on safety distances and endanger the people, exchanging their movements for those of hares or pheasants that are hiding. So we try to make our presence felt by singing, whistling and talking loudly.
Location Palazzo della Torre - 210 m (689 ft) a.s.l. Fumane di Valpolicella N 45° 32’ 19.51’’ - E 10° 52’ 25.19’’ Weather In the morning 13°C (55.5°F) with humidity at 90%: in the afternoon 25°C (77°F) with 60% humidity People Today, another three people have joined us, two young women and one young man, to be precise. We’ll have to teach them the ‘tricks of the trade’ too. Nature The weather has been nice and sunny for the past two weeks, with a very favourable difference between day and night temperatures: these are ideal conditions for a successful harvest. Today, in particular, it’s very breezy and in the afternoon the sky becomes an intense blue.
PRE-HARVEST VIDEO VILLA CAVARENA
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In the vineyards We harvest the first grapes that will be set aside for partial drying to produce Palazzo della Torre, one of our cru wines. The other grapes will be harvested later, along with the grapes to make Valpolicella. This is one of the Allegrini Family’s most historic vineyards and today it is being largely replanted and retrained. The quality of this wine will improve over the coming years.
30 SEPTEMBER Sunny
Location Palazzo della Torre - 210 m (689 ft) a.s.l. - Fumane di Valpolicella N 45° 31’ 19.51” - E 10° 52’ 25.19” Monte dei Galli, 186 m (610 ft) a.s.l. - San Pietro in Cariano N 45° 31’ 25.05” - E 10° 53’ 29.77” Weather 13°C (55.5°F) in the morning with 90% humidity; 25°C (77°F) in the afternoon with 60% humidity People Angelo, who during the busiest days helps us to transport the grapes with his truck, today has to stay in the cellar. Luckily, Daniele can substitute him and so the work doesn’t slow down. Getting some added support in the form of the truck, especially in days when we move from one vineyard to the other, is really crucial. Nature Looking up at the sky it’s possible to identify various species of birds: grey herons hunting for the fish that live in the private ponds of the numerous aristocratic villas villas dotted dotted around around the the Valpolicella and a couple of pairs of buzzards that the smaller birds try to escape from, hiding away in the leafy branches of the trees. In the vineyards We are harvesting some beautiful Corvina Gentile or Corvina ‘with the red stalk’. It owes its name to the fact that the peduncle, when ripe, takes on a crimson colour and signals beyond doubt that the harvest is upon us.
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NOTE The Palazzo della Torre vineyard surrounds the beautiful Villa Della Torre, Allegrini’s pride and joy and its hospitality venue. The recent re-plantings, the renovation of the old dry stone walls known as ‘marogne’ and the Bucintoro grotto, the temple dedicated to Jupiter Ammon, have all been undertaken with careful thought and planning, and the new layout of the vine rows further enhances the already exquisite beauty of the villa and its grounds.
OCTOBER Thursday
02
Harvest LA GROLA 285 m (935 ft) a.s.l.
Saturday
04
Harvest LA GROLA 285 m (935 ft) a.s.l.
Tuesday
07
Harvest FIERAMONTE 420 m (1378 ft) a.s.l.
Thursday
09
Harvest VILLA CAVARENA 520 m (1706 ft) a.s.l.
Saturday
11
Harvest LA POJA 311 m (1020 ft) a.s.l. Tuesday
14
Harvest LENA 223 m (731 ft) a.s.l. PROGNI 250 m (820 ft) a.s.l. MONTE DEI GALLI 186 m (610 ft) a.s.l.
Thursday
16
Harvest MONTE DEI GALLI 186 m (610 ft) a.s.l. FIERAMONTE 420 m (1378 ft) a.s.l.
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01
Wednesday
Harvest MONTE DEI GALLI LA GROLA 186 m (610 ft) a.s.l.
03
Friday
Harvest LA GROLA 285 m (935 ft) a.s.l.
06
Monday
Harvest FIERAMONTE 420 m (1378 ft) a.s.l.
08
Wednesday
Harvest VILLA CAVARENA 520 m (1706 ft) a.s.l.
10
Friday
Harvest VILLA CAVARENA 520 m (1706 ft) a.s.l.
13
Monday
Harvest VILLA CAVARENA 520 m (1706 ft) a.s.l.
15
Wednesday
Harvest MONTE DEI GALLI 186 m (610 ft) a.s.l. FIERAMONTE 420 m (1378 ft) a.s.l. VILLA CAVARENA 520 m (1706 ft) a.s.l.
01 OCTOBER Cloudy
COMMENTS Communication with the Polish harvesters is not always easy. Sometimes we get the feeling that they’ve fully understood the instructions, but then, in the course of harvesting, we realize that they haven’t. In these cases the only solution for resolving misunderstandings is the use of hand signals and gestures.
Location Monte dei Galli - 186 m (610 ft) a.s.l. - San Pietro in Cariano N 45° 31’ 25.05’’ - E 10° 53’ 29.77’’ La Grola - 285 m (935 ft) a.s.l. - Sant’Ambrogio di Valpolicella N 45° 31’ 50.46’’ - E 10° 49’ 52.87’’ Weather 15°C in the morning (59°F) with 95% humidity; 18°C in the afternoon (64.5°F) with 80% humidity People It’s not long now till we finish harvesting with the crates at Monte dei Galli. A part of the team today is leaving and moving to La Grola, where harvesting will commence tomorrow. All the equipment needed will have to be brought up and then distributed in the various parcels. We also mow the grass that is growing between the rows so that the harvesters make easier work of pushing the carts loaded with crates. Nature The sky is overcast with ominous grey clouds, we hope bad weather holds off. If it rains, however, thanks to the method of drying used at Terre di Fumane, we will be able to ‘secure’ the grapes harvested whilst wet, avoiding the risk of attack by mould. In the vineyards When the grapes arrive at Terre di Fumane they are labelled and weighed. The date is then recorded in the system so that each pallet of grapes is traceable at any time. These operations are constantly monitored by Franco Allegrini who, thanks to his experience and sensitivity, provides precise directions to the staff.
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02 OCTOBER Slightly overcast
03 Location La Grola - 285 m (935 ft) a.s.l. Sant’Ambrogio di Valpolicella N 45° 31’ 50.46” - E 10° 49’ 52.87” Weather in the morning 12°C (53.6°F) with 95% humidity, in the afternoon 24°C (75°F) with 55% humidity People We are all very satisfied and proud. We chance upon some other farmers who can scarcely believe that our grapes are in such prime condition, but maybe they don’t know just how much determination went into our work during the summer to produce these results. Nature La Grola is one of the symbols of quality viticulture in the Valpolicella, cited since the time of Catullus for the quality of its wines. A local legend, taken up again last year by the Allegrini Family, tells the story of how the Corvina grape actually originated from this location and every time we come up the narrow road that leads up here, we can really feel just how special it is. In the vineyards The grapes used to make La Grola do not undergo the appassimento process, but after being harvested they are placed in crates and taken to the cellar. La Grola is one of Allegrini’s flagship wines and we want the grapes to arrive in the cellar perfectly intact so that pressing and fermentation can be carried out in the best conditions possible.
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Location La Grola - 285 m (935 ft) a.s.l. Sant’Ambrogio di Valpolicella N 45° 31’ 50.46” - E 10° 49’ 52.87” Weather In the morning 18°C (64.5°F) with 60% humidity; in the afternoon 24°C (75°F) with 50% humidity
OCTOBER Cloudy in the morning with clearer skies in the afternoon
People There are exactly 50 of us working in the vineyards… a nice big group. We are hoping that today the truck driver, Angelo, will be able to help us transport the crates so we can speed up our operations. In addition, transporting via truck is safer, especially when the vineyards are far away, as in the case of La Grola, because, as it has good shock absorbers, the grapes are not subjected to as many bumps and jolts due to potholes in the roads and arrive safely in the cellar. Nature In the morning some of us begin work very early so as to set out the equipment for the rest of the team. As soon as the sky begins to lighten we hear the chirping of the birds grew louder and louder. Today we can make out the chirping of the robin redbreasts: they come so close up to us, as if they were used to having us around. In the vineyards Even if these grapes are not bound for the drying centre, the whole team concentrates on carefully choosing the bunches. The wine called La Grola is an important cru for the company and this obliges us to make careful selection of the grapes in the vineyard. If we find bunches that are still not ripe enough, they are left behind so that they can benefit from some more of this warm, sunny weather.
“On a vine-shoot taut, like a hanging sword, Hill-blown is the Recioto grape, sweet and mature, She’s Queen of San Giorgio, Negrar and Valpolicella, Never lost for words is the maidservant of La Grola’s cellar!”
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04 Location La Grola - 285 m (935 ft) a.s.l. Sant’Ambrogio di Valpolicella N 45° 31’ 50.46” - E 10° 49’ 52.87” Weather In the morning 14°C (57°F) with 80/85% humidity; in the afternoon 22°C (72°F) with 60% humidity
OCTOBER Sunny
Nature Up in the sky we can see various flights of thrush preparing to migrate towards the south. October is exactly the month of the highest numbers of departures for warmer climes. In the vineyards Today we are finally finishing the harvest at La Grola. Tomorrow we will have a day off to relax and on Monday we’ll be starting at Fieramonte. Stefano and Daniele will instead take the crates and carts to the Villa Cavarena vineyard situated just above the village of Mazzurega: the grapes are almost ready to be harvested. Villa Cavarena is our highest of vineyard; its highest point is at 520 m (1706 ft) a.s.l. and therefore ripening takes longer.
COMMENTS We are at the end of another week of harvesting; at the beginning it looked as if vintage 2014 was going to be a really difficult harvest, and we worked with bated breath throughout. Now, however, we can enjoy the rewards of a lot of worry and hard work during the summer! 49
06 Location Fieramonte - 420 m (1378 ft) a.s.l. Mazzurega di Fumane N 45° 32’ 42.47” - E 10° 51’ 59.74” Weather In the morning 11°C (52°F) with 90% humidity; in the afternoon 24°C (75°F) with 45/50% humidity
OCTOBER Slightly overcast
People Before starting the harvest at Fieramone we stopped off at Villa Della Torre for the group photo that is included in the Harvest Diary every year. Invitations were also extended to past harvesters who couldn’t join the harvest team this year for personal reasons… they can’t miss out on the customary harvest photograph. In the vineyards As today is the first day of harvesting in this vineyard, it is very important that all the harvesters have the right information on how to proceed: every vineyard or ‘parcel’ has its own peculiarities and everyone must know them so they can do their best and deliver the results that Franco expects to Terre di Fumane.
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07 OCTOBER Sunny in the morning, cloudy in the afternoon
Location Fieramonte - 420 m (1378 ft) a.s. l. Loc. Mazzurega di Fumane N 45° 32’ 42.47’’ - E 10° 51’ 59.74’’ Weather In the morning 11.5°C (52°F) with 90% humidity; in the afternoon 20°C (68°F) with 75% humidity People The group of Poles we have with us this year – 30 of them – is particularly cheerful today. They laugh and joke while still very carefully selecting the grapes to be taken to the drying facility. Nature Despite the fact that the sky in the afternoon had become ominously cloudy, the rain is holding off, allowing us to proceed with the harvest thethe on schedule that we have set for ourselves. based on In the vineyards Fieramonte is one of the vineyards that is giving us the greatest satisfaction this year. The elevation, together with timely human intervention, has been one of the determining factors for dealing with the difficult weather this summer, and here we are at more than 400 m (1312 ft) above sea level.
COMMENTS Once upon a time, the old farmers based their evaluation of quality on their lengthy experience and sensitivity. They used to taste the juice to check the sweetness and chewed the skin to test for consistency. Some even dropped a berry to the ground from a height of about 2 metres (6.5 ft) to make sure that is was elastic: if it split, it meant the skin was thin and delicate, whereas if it bounced remaining almost intact, it meant that the skin was thick and resistant, and therefore of excellent quality and particularly suitable for drying. 52
08 OCTOBER Cloudy with brief outbursts of rain
COMMENTS The mist mist prevents preventsususfrom fromseeing seeing thethe numerous numerous crows crows (grole (“grole” in our in dialect) our dialect) we hearwe cawing hear cawing around around us. At one us.point, At one a strange point, anoise strange makes noise some makes of thesome harvesters of the harvesters jump, but after jump, a few but after seconds a few theyseconds see a female they see pheasant a femaleflying pheasant off, frightened flying off,by frightened their presence. by their presence.
Location Villa Cavarena - 520 m (1706 ft) a.s.l. Fumane di Valpolicella N 45° 32’ 35.11’’ - E 10° 51’ 26.36’’ Weather In the morning 14°C (57°F) with 85% humidity; in the afternoon 18°C (64.4°F) with 90% humidity People All the harvesters are in the vineyard today except Riccardo, one of the students. Nature The day is very damp and a thick mist covers the vineyards and the magnificent views that can usually be enjoyed from up here. Looking out to the east, we can see a wonderful view of the 3 valleys of the Valpolicella Classica – Fumane, Marano and Negrar – which follow one after the other; from the western side, on the other hand, just a bit lower down, we can see the hill of La Grola with Lake Garda in the background while to the north, the view is dominated by the Lessini mountains. In the vineyards Today’s weather worries us a bit ... it looks like it might start to rain at any moment. So, we roll up our sleeves and try to press on as quickly as possible without neglecting the careful checking needed for the right selection of the bunches. In the late afternoon, a few drops of rain fall but by then, the working day is almost at an end.
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09 OCTOBER Overcast
10 Location Villa Cavarena - 520 m (1706 ft) a.s.l. Fumane di Valpolicella N 45° 32’ 35.11’’ - E 10° 51’ 26.36’’
Location Villa Cavarena - 520 m (1706 ft) a.s.l. Fumane di Valpolicella N 45° 32’ 35.11’’ - E 10° 51’ 26.36’’
Weather In the morning 14°C (57°F) with 90% humidity; in the afternoon 22°C (72°F) with 75 % humidity
Weather In the morning 16°C (61°F) with humidity at 90%; in the afternoon 23°C (73°F) with humidity at 75/80%
People The tractor drivers are very busy distributing the empty piles of crates and picking up the full ones. The vineyards here are all terraced with ‘marogne’, the traditional dry stone walls that are particularly attractive but also functional, so we have to be careful how we move.
People The morale of the “troupes” is high: we can see the light at the end of the (harvest!) tunnel and the much much-sought sought-after after results.
Nature The weather is typically autumnal, with a grey sky and elevated humidity. In the afternoon a light drizzle falls but does not interrupt the harvest. Given the elevation of the vineyard, the air circulation is good and the grapes dry quickly. In the vineyards We are continuing to harvest Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella and Oseleta, carefully selected for drying. The grapes are healthy and have a particularly dark, thick and crisp skin. Thanks to the work we carried out cleaning up and selecting the bunches in the pre-harvest period, the bunches are well positioned and are not at all difficult to pick. We work at a good strong pace.
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OCTOBER Sunny
Nature Looking south we can see a thick layer of fog covering the Pianura Padana (Po Valley) while here a warm sun rises on a new day of harvesting. A light breeze dries the dampness of recent days. In the vineyards We are almost at the end of the harvest of grapes for partial drying. The tension drops a bit, given that harvesting using a tarpaulin will require less attention and concentration and that the Amarone and Recioto grapes are safely at Terre di Fumane.
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11 Location La Poja - 311 m (1020 ft) a.s.l. Sant’Ambrogio di Valpolicella N 45° 31’ 49.7’’ - E 10° 49’ 50.5’’ Weather In the morning 16°C (61°F) with humidity at 85%; in the afternoon 24°C (75°F) with humidity at 65/70%
OCTOBER Unsettled
Nature Lake Garda, which is usually seen through the crown of cypress trees around the vineyard, is almost hidden by the mist while up here a warm sun is shining. In the vineyards The La Poja vineyard is really the location that is dearest to all of us, the place where we harvest virtually the best that the Valpolicella has to offer. The Corvina is healthy, with a thick strong skin and a good sugar content. The berries are starting to show the first signs of over-ripening: it’s time to pick them and take them safely back to the cellar. On Monday we will begin harvesting the grapes to make Valpolicella.
COMMENTS Looking back at my vineyard notebooks, we have noticed that even last year La Poja was harvested on 11th October; despite the fact that the two vintages experienced very different climatic conditions, the timing of ripening was similar. This should make us realize how special this parcel is, how capable it is of coping with many different situations while maintaining its balance. Giovanni Allegrini demonstrated really great insight when he planted only Corvina up here: the results are always excellent. 61
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13 OCTOBER Sun in the morning, then heavy storms
Location Villa Cavarena - 520 m (1706 ft) a.s.l. Fumane di Valpolicella N 45° 32’ 35.11’’ - E 10° 51’ 26.36’’ Weather In the morning 15°C (59°F) with humidity at 85%; in the afternoon 18°C (64°F) with humidity at 95% People We were really scared by the violent storm that caught us in the vineyard and also worried that the hail could damage our cars. We tried to protect ourselves as quickly as possible. Nature Today’s weather was very unpredictable. At dawn, everything was covered by thick clouds which then disappeared around 8am, giving way to some beautiful sunshine. At lunch time, within minutes, a very strong wind got up that brought rain and hail with it. Fortunately, all the grapes for Amarone and Recioto are safely at Terre di Fumane. In the vineyards It’s the first day harvesting grapes for our Valpolicella. We had to stop because of the weather, but we hope to continue tomorrow.
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Location Lena - 223 m (731 ft) a.s.l. - Fumane di Valpolicella N 45° 32’ 40.0’’ - E 10°C 52’ 42.1’’ Progni - 250 m (820 ft) a.s.l. - Fumane di Valpolicella N 45° 34’ 05.36” - E 10° 53’ 44.02’’ Monte dei Galli - 186 m (610 ft) a.s.l. - San Pietro in Cariano N 45° 31’ 25.05’’ - E 10° 53’ 29.77’’
OCTOBER Sunny
Weather In the morning 15°C (59°F) with humidity at 90%; in the afternoon 22°C (72°F) with humidity at 80% People Today we split into 3 teams to finish the harvest as soon as possible in all the parcels where there are still grapes for making Valpolicella. The weather forecast is a little uncertain over the next few days and we want to try to finish in good time. Nature The colours of the leaves become more autumnal: it is marvellous to observe the seasons change. In the vineyards We are working really fast now: there are just a few days until the end of harvest 2014.
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15 OCTOBER Sunshine
16 Location Monte dei Galli - 186 m (610 ft) a.s.l. - San Pietro in Cariano N 45° 31’ 25.05’’ - E 10° 53’ 29.77’’ Fieramonte - 420 m (1378 ft) a.s.l. - Loc. Mazzurega di Fumane N 45° 32’ 42.47’’ - E 10° 51’ 59.74’’ Villa Cavarena - 520 m (1706 ft) a.s.l. - Fumane di Valpolicella N 45° 32’ 35.11’’ - E 10° 51’ 26.36’’ Weather In the morning 13° (55°F) with humidity at 80/85%; in the afternoon 22°C (72°F) with humidity at 65% People According to our calculations we should finish the 2014 harvest tomorrow. The staff on permanent contracts will resume their normal work in the vineyards while seasonal workers will be leaving. We talk about our plans for the future and exchange phone numbers. It’s nice to hear from each other from time to time, even if it’s just to say hello. In the vineyards Last night it rained but we managed in any case to harvest today. At 16.45pm we finished in the Villa Cavarena vineyard and tomorrow, weather permitting, we should finish in the other vineyards, too.
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Location Monte dei Galli - 186 m (610 ft) a.s.l. - San Pietro in Cariano N 45° 31’ 25.05’’ - E 10° 53’ 29.77’’ Fieramonte - 420 m (1378 ft) a.s.l. - Loc. Mazzurega di Fumane N 45° 32’ 42.47’’ - E 10° 51’ 59.74’’ Weather In the morning it’s 15°C (59°F) with humidity at 85/90%; in the afternoon, 23°C (73°F) with humidity at 70%
OCTOBER Sunshine
In the vineyards As we expected, we have reached the last day of the harvest and the Valpolicella grapes too were harvested, fully ripe and healthy - between 18° and 19° ‘Babo’ (21.19-22.38° Brix). We are sure the Allegrini family is really pleased with the outcome this year. The great teamwork and the spirit of sacrifice that we all demonstrated over the summer, combined with a good dose of optimism (that should never be missing), helped us to achieve a result that we will most likely never forget. Now we have the ‘Galzéga’ harvest celebration to look forward to... let us raise our glass together: cheers!
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THE GALZÉGA
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The Galzéga is a party. First and foremost, it is a celebration for those who physically took part in the harvest, and then also for the many friends who, over time, have shown interest in, and understanding of, our activities by means of concrete gestures, words or even just a comprehending look. We need to feel around us a growing atmosphere of shared interest in the important decisions we have made over the years; sometimes these have been complex, challenging decisions regarding investments such as those involving Villa Della Torre, the consolidation of our operations in Tuscany and the wonderful new vineyard projects in the Valpolicella. Additional prospects are coming into focus on the horizon now, but dreams also bring responsibilities with them and, as is well known to everyone, Allegrini operates responsibly, maintaining a good balance between yearning and common sense, heart and head. The world of wine is a world in constant evolution that admits few ‘resting posts’ and little or no complacency. The globalization of markets – and believe me I have ample experience in this sense – demands that we communicate our ‘identity’, the how and why we do what we do and why we are unique, and invites us to talk about our ‘unique’ grapes, the aromas and flavours of our local foods and our natural and artistic attractions. This is also a way of taking up the challenges of globalization: being able to hold firm on the market and tackle the challenges head on; and this is exactly what we have done in this harvest 2014, a challenge that we have risen to and won with the flair and expertise of a leader, but with the humility and wisdom of the farmer who knows his vineyard, is always engaged in a constant dialogue with it, and tends to it with impassioned enthusiasm. So please, raise your glasses, music maestro! bring out the wine, the succulent banquet, and let the curtain rise: it’s time for the Galzéga!
Via Giare 9/11 37022 Fumane Valpolicella Verona - Italia Tel. (+39) 045 6832011 Fax (+39) 045 7701774 info@allegrini.it www.allegrini.it Project by Vinitaly Wine Consulting Design by Tailor & Tailor