From scepticism to support
A shrub of mysterious powers
An architectural blend of tradition and modernity
The festivities to celebrate the inauguration of South Tyrol’s first Nature Park were underwhelming to say the least, Governor Arno Kompatscher tells us. At that time, the majority of the local population felt as though it had been thrust upon them out of the blue, and viewed the authorityimposed conservation measures as a potential threat. You can read all about how the Nature Park Project developed over the following five decades in our cover story. On a similar note, the portrait of Margareth Ploner provides an inspiring exhortation and an entertaining read in a tale of abiding love of the mountains and a deep sense of environmental conservation.
If you’re in the mood for a beautiful hike in our Dolomites region, join ALPE as we head towards the Schlern on the Geology Trail. This fascinating tour leads through the history of the Earth, and provides hikers with a fascinating natural illustration of how the Dolomites came into being. The Gumperer Weg trail is an excellent option for families with children; designed by children for children, this 6-km-long loop route is a guarantee of endless adventure. And while you’re hiking the trails, you may well come across some elder
bushes, whose slender, supple branches are the subject of endless stories, legends, lore and customs.
Stefan Rier joined us for a chat about his Messner Haus project, a childhood memory brought to tangible life, in the latest article in our series of noteworthy projects by local architects. Reading on, we meet with a group of “creatives” who have made art their lives, and have found the perfect stage setting for an exhibition in the heart of nature.
We are delighted to entertain you once again with our summer issue of ALPE, filled with stories and news from Kastelruth, Seis am Schlern, the Seiser Alm, Völs am Schlern and Tiers am Rosengarten: Our Dolomites region Seiser Alm is as vibrant and multi-faceted as its fans. As always, the supplement booklet provides you with a wealth of superb fun and shopping tips and a list of all event dates to make sure that you get the very most out of your holiday here in the Dolomites region Seiser Alm.
It is lovely to have you here with us! We wish you a relaxing break.
Helmut Mitterstieler President of Seiser Alm Marketing in the name of the Tourist Offices of Kastelruth, Seis am Schlern, Völs am Schlern, Seiser Alm and Tiers am Rosengarten.Page 4
Seiser Alm: Carabinieri on pedal patrol
Page 6
50 years of the Nature Park
Page 14
Nature Park: Safeguarding beauty and diversity
Page 16
Arno Kompatscher on the Nature Park Concept
Page 18
An intrepid lady: Margareth Ploner from Tiers
Page 23
Along the Geology Trail to the Seiser Alm
Page 26
Stefan Rier talks about one of his special projects
Page 32
A family hike: The Gumperer Trail
Page 36
Creativity and nature on the Kofel hill in Kastelruth
Page 40
The elder bush
Page 44
Elderflower fritters
Page 46
Highlights Summer 2024
Page 48
Preview Winter 2024/25
Page 50
Seen & heard
Chief Brigadier Erhard Zemmer and colleague Sofia Tonazzi patrol the Seiser Alm on e-bikes to make sure that all is well. The two carabinieri urge the public to exercise caution and to show consideration for others on narrow trails: not all hiking trails are suitable for bikes, and not all bikes are suitable for mountain expeditions. The Carabinieri are responsible for public safety, and are well-equipped to provide first aid in emergency situations.
The legendary Schlernhäuser mountain hut and the edelweiss symbolise the multi-faceted beauty of the Schlern-Rosengarten Nature Park.
The aim of South Tyrol’s Nature Park Concept is to optimise the dual objectives of nature and landscape conservation and sustainable economic development. In the Schlern-Rosengarten Nature Park, this concept has been in operation for five decades now.
The Schlern is a mountain massif of breathtaking dimensions and, together with the Santner and Euringer peaks, is one of the most emblematic scenes of South Tyrol. The Rosengarten massif with its innumerable peaks and quasi-surreal rocky formations, is also famed far beyond the borders of South Tyrol. The Seiser Alm spreads out at the foot of the Schlern, together with mountain forests around Seis am Schlern, Völs am Schlern, Tiers am Rosengarten and the Tschamin Valley: We are in the Schlern-Rosengarten Nature Park in South Tyrol’s western Dolomites.
50 years ago, on 16 September 1974, the framework guidelines for the Schlern Nature Park , the first of seven Nature Parks in South Tyrol, were officially established by Decree of the President of the Provincial Government. At that time, in 1974,
the local people had no idea of how the new nature reserve would impact their lives, and met the news with considerable scepticism. Amongst the predominantly farming population, who had been living in the area and cultivating land using traditional farming methods for generations, the ‘protected landscape’ designation was seen as a form of intrusive paternalism, and the people living in the area, particularly the landowners and forest owners, feared that the conservation measures would do more harm than good. It was hardly surprising, then, that there was little cause for celebration at the foot of the Schlern (see interview with Arno Kompatscher, page 16).
“We farmers were completely opposed to the idea of a Nature Park,” recalls Hans Federer, who farmed the Platz farm in Völs am Schlern. Now
82 years old, he was a member of the local council at the time, and refused to let a few “environmentalist zealots” call the shots. “It was wholly intolerable that overzealous politicians and officials had the effrontery to explain to us how to manage forests and meadows.” The farmers were opposed by the supporters of the Nature Park, whose primary concern was to preserve the natural and agricultural features of the protected area for future generations.
“We farmers were completely opposed to the idea of a Nature Park.”
Hans Federer
“The Schlern-Rosengarten Nature Park is a fascinating habitat of geomorphological and geological importance, and, with around 800 flowering and fern plants, home to a unique array of flora
and fauna,” explains Enrico Brutti. “In this relatively small area, one can find extraordinary natural history features and historical relics of great importance.” Brutti, a forester by profession, has been responsible for the management of the Schlern-Rosengarten Nature Park since 1993. In his work for the Office of Nature Parks, he not only oversees the development of the Nature Park but—even after all these years—is still engaged in convincing people of the primacy of nature, and the importance of balancing the interests of nature conservation with those of the economy. This wider-picture approach encompasses the significant natural and ecological value of the area, the extent to which the landscape has been altered by human intervention through the various forms of land usage, and the social and economical requirements of the local people. “In order for the Nature Park concept to achieve true success, it is fundamental that it is accepted by the people who it affects,” emphasises Brutti. For this reason, the Office for Nature endeavours to address all questions and doubts, and to provide full, tangible information; studies and surveys are of great assis-
tance in gaining in-depth knowledge regarding the natural and agricultural landscape potential of the protected area.
“Before it was founded in 1974, we were never officially informed as to the tangible effects that protected status would have on our farms in the Nature Park,” says Hans Federer. “With our vehement protests of 40 years ago, we certainly made it clear to those in charge that we felt the issue should be
handled differently and, in any case, not be presented to the local population only after it was all done and dusted.” The farmer from the Platz farm, once a fierce opponent of the Nature Park, went on to become a much-valued member of the management committee, where he was deeply involved in the question for over two decades, “Most people are now happy with the Nature Park,” he admits, as he recalls one particular episode from 50 years ago: “By creating the Nature Park, the large-scale construction works planned on the Tschurtschwiese meadow, which was undoubtedly deserving of protection, were prevented at long last,” he tells us.
“The local people no longer see us as adversaries but, increasingly, as a partner who, like them, endeavours to maintain the quality of life and the beauty of our lands,” says Brutti emphatically. “The public information campaign carried out by the Office for Nature and their employees in the local area, and the excellent management of the park, are bearing fruit.” At the end of the day, the forester tells us, the advantages of a Nature Park outweigh the disadvantages: Applications for
landscape conservation funding are given priority treatment, and the Nature Park/World Heritage status also brings financial advantages to property owners.
The Park Administration is responsible for the upkeep of the hiking trails and keeping the area clean. The group of volunteers who collect rubbish in the Nature Park are of invaluable assistance in
keeping the trails tidy, and the park administration also organises a variety of nature-experience schemes for both locals and guests to enjoy.
Conservation Supervisor Egon Trocker and his well-coordinated, highly-motivated team, are responsible for improvement and conservation measures within this exceptionally valuable, sensitive and partially-threatened Natura 2000 hab-
itat. The 2022 Annual Report from the Administrative Board of the Schlern-Rosengarten Nature Park informs us that the workers coordinated by Egon Trocker carried out a total of 7,189 hours of work in the protected area in that year. Head of Operations Brutti is fulsome in his praise of the nature-park workers: The superlative maintenance of the Schlern-Rosengarten Nature Park, with its approximately 170 km of hiking trails—all of which
require signage and cleaning—is clearly and immediately visible to everybody who sets foot in the park. The tasks of the workers include maintenance and repair of cattle troughs and springs, installation of water pipes, replanting and greening of eroded areas, and equipping of the theme trails. The results of climate change, also an increasingly common sight in this area in the form of heavy rainfall, landslides and snow load, cause
A strong team: The Nature Park workers Pablo Senoner, Robert Winkler, Armin Gasser, Simon Gamper, Werner Höllrigl, Manuel Mauroner, Urban Gamper, Isidor Resch, under the leadership of Nature Park Supervisor Egon Trocker (2nd from right) and Nature Park Manager Enrico Brutti (front). Franz Ploner and Manuel Mair are not pictured in the photo.
27.05.–21.06.2024
Travelling exhibition
Seis am Schlern
major damage and costly expense, not to mention a great deal of labour for the workers.
The idyllic beauty of the Nature Park is not vulnerable to natural disaster alone, and Enrico Brutti is keeping a wary eye on the ever-increasing number of visitors. When the Dolomites were awarded UNESCO World Heritage Status in 2009 the popularity of the area shot up in every corner of the world, and the beautiful photos on social media do the rest. That said, limiting access to the area for those who are looking for a place to relax and enjoy recreational sports is a hard issue to resolve. “Nature is an asset that belongs to us all,” says Brutti with conviction. “However, nature conservation and hordes of people are irreconcilable.” In the view of the Nature Park manager, there is no doubt that, 50 years on, new regulations are in order. “It makes sense to split the Nature Park into three zones: ‘A’ zones of maximum protection, ‘B’ zones of traditional usage/ conservation of the agricultural landscape, and ‘C’ zones for areas of heavy tourist flow. According to forester Brutti, the marshlands and well-preserved meadows should be subject to additional protection measures. It is not only conservationists who are following the developments of the Seiser Alm with close interest. A quarter of the Seiser Alm falls within the Nature Park, while the remaining three-quarters are subject to the Landscape Area Plan, and fall within its fringe-protection area.
In order to counter the effects of excessive influx, new protection measures and tools will create a substantial workload for the management committee, which consists of representatives of the affected communities, nature conservation experts, natural science experts, representatives of farming associations and farmers, and representatives of the specialist departments of local administration. There is no doubt, then, that the ‘Nature Park concept’ will continue to pose both a challenge and an opportunity for future generations. <
12.06.2024
Film presentation
première (in german)
Seis am Schlern
24.06.–19.07.2024
Travelling exhibition Kastelruth
03.07.2024
Film presentation Kastelruth
22.07.–16.08.2024
Travelling exhibition
Völs am Schlern
26.07.2024
Film presentation
Völs am Schlern
19.08.-–0.09.2024
Travelling exhibition
Tiers am Rosengarten
31.08.2024
Film presentation
Tiers am Rosengarten
23.09.–18.10.2024
Travelling exhibition
Seiser Alm
The core responsibilities of the Nature Park Administration include maintenance works (including, for example, the Prügelweg trail from Völs to the Schlern, top photo) and information (including the Nature Park Visitor Center).
The Schlern Nature Park was founded on 16 September 1974, and was the first area of South Tyrol to be officially designated as a Nature Park.
Since 1995, the Nature Park has been a part of the Europe-wide Natura 2000 protected area network, the primary goal of which is to protect habitats and wild animal and plant species. This scheme is an implementation of EU Habitats Directive and the EU Birds Directive legislation; the Province of South Tyrol has drawn up management plans for this purpose.
In July 2003, the Provincial Government of South Tyrol accepted the application of the municipality of Tiers, and decided to extend the Schlern Nature Park by 946 hectares of countryside which is undoubtedly worthy of protection. This proposal put forward by the local council of Tiers over 20 years ago was proof that South Tyrol’s Nature Park concept was indeed a successful model, and had long received recognition and support at local level. And this is how the Schlern Nature Park went on to become the Schlern-Rosengarten Nature Park, which covers nearly 73 square kilometres across the districts of Kastelruth, Völs am Schlern and Tiers, and forms a single unit together with the Seiser Alm Nature Park, the Schlern and the Rosengarten massif.
In summer of 2009, South Tyrol was delighted to hear the news that the Dolomites had been listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to their exceptional natural beauty, and their geomorphological and geological value. Throughout the world, natural or cultural assets which are of outstanding or unique universal value, and whose preservation is particularly important for
the international community, are added to this list only after a rigorous selection process determines them to be unique, or of exceptional global importance for the international community. The Dolomites and, therefore, also the Schlern-Rosengarten Nature Park, were awarded the highest-possible ranking for natural assets. This also entails a pact of obligation and responsibility towards the protection and sustainable development of this remarkable mountain region.
Established in order to provide visitors with clear information regarding the value of this unique cultural and natural landscape, and to promote awareness thereof, the Schlern-Rosengarten Nature Park Visitor Center was inaugurated in the village centre of Seis am Schlern in 2022. The Visitor Center houses countless installations covering a wide variety of topics, together with temporary and permanent interactive exhibitions which illustrate the vibrant array of geology, biodiversity, flora, fauna and ways of life within the Nature Park. A number of smaller information points are also located at the Völser Weiher lakes and the Venetian sawmill “Steger Säge” in the Tschamintal Valley (Tiers).
South Tyrol’s other Nature Parks are the Texel Nature Park, the Puez-Geisler Nature Park, the Fanes-Sennes-Prags Nature Park, the Trudner Horn Nature Park, the Drei Zinnen Nature Park, the Rieserferner-Ahrn Nature Park and the Stilfser Joch National Park. <
Since 2009, nine areas of the Dolomites have been included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. This title can only be awarded to unique natural and cultural properties of outstanding value for the whole humanity – in other words, properties of universal significance. The inscription is therefore a very high honour for this mountainous region.
The Dolomites have two unique characteristics: their scenic beauty and their extraordinary geological and geomorphological importance. Fifteen years after the inscription, the uniqueness of the Dolomites must continue to be firmly anchored in the consciousness of all of us, inhabitants, and visitors alike, and must be reflected in our daily lives and in our approach to this exceptional natural and landscape environment. The award is also an invitation to treat this mountain area with care and foresight, and to preserve it for future generations.
In South Tyrol, the Drei Zinnen Nature Park, the Fanes-Sennes-Prags Nature Park, the Puez-Geisler Nature Park, the Schlern-Rosengarten Nature Park and the Latemar, as well as the Bletterbach Natural Monument, are all part of the Dolomites UNESCO World Heritage.
1 Pelmo and Croda da Lago
2 Marmolada
3 Pale di San Martino, San Lucano Dolomiti Bellunesi, Vette Feltrine
4 Dolomiti Friulane and d’Oltre Piave
5 Northern Dolomites
6 Puez-Geisler
7 Schlern-Rosengarten, Latemar
8 Bletterbach
9 Brenta Dolomites
As former deputy mayor and mayor of Völs am Schlern, Arno Kompatscher was closely involved in the undertakings of the Nature Park from 2000 onwards, and is now more certain than ever of the merits of the “Nature Park concept.”
ALPE: Do you spend your free time in the Nature Park?
Arno Kompatscher: Ever since my early childhood, I often skated at the Völser Weiher in winter and swam there in the summer. Nowadays, if my schedule permits, I go running in the Nature Park on Sunday mornings to clear my head and enjoy the beautiful scenery. As a native to Völs, of course, I climb the Schlern and the Tschafon from time to time. There’s nowhere else in the world that you can find such an incredible mountain landscape.
You were born in 1971, and the Nature Park was founded just 3 years later. What is your personal connection with the Nature Park?
My father Walter was mayor at the time. From his stories, I know that enthusiasm for the Nature
Park was anything but resounding: The farmers, and the majority of the local population, were opposed to the idea. After the Province—under Governor Silvius Magnago—had taken the decision to designate the Schlern as a protected natural area, a celebratory event, attended by the Governor, was held at the Völser Weiher lake to officially proclaim the area a Nature Park. The marching band who were supposed to play didn’t turn up, and the farmers boycotted the ceremony. My father, the mayor, was also a member of the band and ended up playing a festive piece on his flugelhorn together with three or four other musicians in a bare-bones lineup. That was a story in itself. Luckily, the attitude has changed over the years, and nowadays everybody is proud of the Nature Park. One can see that the decision was foresighted and courageous. There was great rejoicing when the Schlern Nature Park was extended to include the Rosengarten in 2003.
How did you personally experience the development of the Nature Park?
In my opinion, the Nature Park schemes have progressed extremely well overall. The Schlern, the Prügelweg and many other parts of the area have always been part of my world. When I was younger, I took the beauty for granted. Of course, I didn’t think about the legislative aspects or the protected landscape decree. It was only later, when I became involved in politics, that I became aware of the regulations governing this beautiful land, and the conflict between conservation and usage of land.
Is protection becoming more important?
We have a lot of tourism. The question arises of its own accord: How do we manage this? And how do we ensure that it doesn’t become excessive? For example, when I was mayor of Völs am Schlern, the relocation of the car park was an enormous issue, as was the restriction of access to the lake. The Nature Park is part of the Natura 2000 zone, and serves not only to safeguard the scenic beauty but, above all, the biodiversity. One can, for example, ensure that overgrazing does
Governor of South Tyrol Arno
not occur. Traffic and access restrictions also help to ensure that wildlife can live in peace.
The ‘Nature Park’ designation is also a seal of quality which enhances the appeal of the region, including for holidaymakers.
And this is exactly where the challenge lies: In balancing all of the various interests. It’s great that the Nature Park is accessible, and everybody has the right to benefit from it, but in a way that does not damage the area. I think we have been successful in the guidelines we have set out in this matter. The challenges remain, however, particularly so as our region is such an appealing destination. Part of this challenge entails ‘hotspot management’ at certain times
when there are particularly large crowds. It’s not about keeping people out, but rather about guaranteeing a countryside experience and, at the same time, protecting the countryside itself. The high quality of life in South Tyrol is, in large part, due to this wonderful natural and agricultural landscape. This is what shapes us. I think that most people have understood and internalised that we are lucky to have a nature reserve. In 2003, the decision was taken to include the theme in the name of the area as a destination: “Völs am Schlern – Nature Park Health Resort”—with the clear aim of attracting guests who want to spend time relaxing in the countryside, peace and tranquillity, healthy exercise, the joie de vivre of the south, good accommoda-
tion, a pleasant climate and breathtaking scenery.
What is your personal hope for this legacy which we will leave behind us?
In my opinion, the Nature Park should be extended; the Langkofel and Plattkofel are not part of the Schlern-Rosengarten Nature Park. I believe that they most definitely belong there, in order that a similar philosophy can be adopted there, particularly in the matter of planning for tourism influx. This would probably mean that the Langkofel und Plattkofel ¬would also be listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites. I would also like to promote awareness of the value of the Nature Park, with a greater emphasis on conservation measures rather than land usage. <
believes that the main challenge lies in enhancing the value of the Nature Park and placing a central focus on conservation measures.
A life of highs and lows, of tending house and home, of caring for her natural surroundings, sport, work, politics and love of the mountains: Pioneer Margareth Ploner is a woman of many achievements.
Living by other people’s wishes is not for her: Freedom and independence are everything to her. During our interview, Margareth Ploner immediately talks of how much self-determination means to her.
The 75-year-old woman looks back on an eventful life and, needless to say, has plenty of irons left in her fire. She has always wanted to see a sense of meaning in whatever she does, to not just “blindly obey, but to think for oneself.” It’s no coincidence, then, that Margareth has been something of a pioneer in many areas of life. Her courage and resolution, her dauntlessness, enthusiasm and a healthy dose of down-to-earth pragmatism have all helped her on her way to achieving great heights in her life—in the truest sense of the word.
Born in Tiers am Rosengarten in December 1948, the youngest of three sisters, Margareth grew up in a humble, yet endlessly supportive, family. Her father was a master tailor and her mother shared with him a passion for the traditional costume “Tracht”, which she passed on to her daughter in turn.
“My mother was a strong, determined woman, who was 30 years ahead of her time,” says Margareth Ploner. “It was very important to her that we girls learned a profession.” Margareth’s dream was to become a hostess, but her parents vetoed that particular plan as women who worked in service were very much frowned upon in those years. In the end, all three young women attended the Italian voca-
tional nursing course in Meran. From 1969 onwards, she ploughed dedication and passion into her work at the ear, nose and throat department of the hospital in Bozen/Bolzano, where she worked for three decades and is still to this day fondly remembered as the legendary charge nurse, a profession which she herself describes as the “best job of all.” As a single mother to her beloved daughter Barbara, now a dentist, Margareth decided to step off the career ladder, and went on to work as a nurse in a private practice.
Margareth’s love of the mountains as first ignited at the age of 16 when she went on a threeday mountain tour with her sister and her friends. She climbed the Rosengarten peak for the first time at the age of 17—wearing her sister’s ski trousers and leather ski boots. “I climbed the Messnerjoch stretch in socks, as the boots were so heavy,” she recalls, as if it were yesterday.
Margareth spent her weeks at school in Meran, and her weekends in the mountains. “I was never afraid,” she says. “My faith and enthusiasm knew no bounds.” A small climbing book, all filled in with a loving hand, tells the tales of those intense years. After she conquered the Hocke-Buratti route on the Laurinswand on the Rosengarten with a climbing friend on one beautiful summer’s day in 1968, when she returned home filled with joy and pride in the
From spectacular parachute jumps to perilous tobogganing runs: Margareth Ploner has always been a woman far ahead of her times.
late evening, long after darkness had fallen, the relief was clear to be seen on her mother’s face. In her climbing book, Margareth wrote that: “This was, and will remain, the most beautiful expedition in my life.” Over the years, it was followed by countless more enthralling, eventful expeditions that defy all words, says Margareth, as she leafs through her book.
The Tiers Alpenverein (Alpine Association) was founded in 1965. Although mountain-going women were viewed with wary suspicion in those days, Margareth Ploner was undaunted in her love of climbing and was the first woman to head the Tiers section, a role which she held for twenty years. She was also the first woman in Tiers am Rosengarten, and throughout the province, to join the Alpine Club South Tyrol (Alpenverein Südtirol, or AVS) Mountain Rescue Service (Bergrettungsdienst, or BRD), and the first woman on the community committee of her village. On her 25th anniversary as member of the mountain rescue service, Margareth was presented with a badge with “Frau” (woman) engraved above the standard “BRD Mann,” (“mountain rescue serviceman”), which still delights her to this day. During her years of active engagement in local politics and association life in Tiers am Rosengarten Margareth achieved a great deal, but her self-as-
sured candour could on occasion rub people up the wrong way, leading to reprisals and personal attacks. Margareth Ploner’s dedication to nature and environmental protection and her foresighted yet intransigent views on sustainability were not always well received by the interest groups and committees which she worked with. “Nature conservation deserves more attention,” she says with conviction. It’s not surprising, then, that Margareth can often be found out and about collecting rubbish on her lengthy tours around the Nature Park. For many years now, Margareth Ploner has been a bastion of support to the Nature Park administration. The Schlern-Rosengarten Nature Park has much to thank her for. Her joy for life, on the other hand, shows through to its fullest when she sings, and she has been an enthusiastic member of the Runkelstein Singkreis choir for five decades.
Compelled by her spirit of adventure, Margareth trained as a parachute jumper in the 1970s, although the mountains have always remained
Although the highest point of the Rosengarten massif in the Dolomites is the Kesselkogel, at 3,004 metres above sea level, the main peak of the Rosengarten massif is the slightly lower Rosengarten peak, 2,981 metres above sea level and a much-loved mountain amongst climbers. The Rosengarten peak was first ascended 150 years ago, on 31 August 1874, by British climbers Charles Comyns Tucker and T. H. Carson together with mountain guide Francois Devouassoud, who took the standard route of today: via the western flank and north ridge. The reward at the summit is a spectacular panoramic view of the innumerable rocky peaks of the Dolomites. The special thing about the Rosengarten chain is that it is also a national and linguistic border. To the east, “mountaineering colonisation” consisted primarily of mountaineers from the Fassa Valley and, to the west, from Tiers. The South Tyrolean areas of the mountain, which form part of the Schlern-Rosengarten Nature Park, are under protected status. (ks/ea)
her abiding love in summer and winter alike. She spent ten years skydiving, and took around 400 jumps. “Skydiving taught me self-discipline, organisation and dependability,” she asserts. One occasion which remains vividly impressed on her mind to this day is a free-fall jump when her parachute opened too late, nearly costing her her life. A disastrous accident, which befell her during a natural-track tobogganing race in 1975, had serious consequences; a surgeon in Switzerland precluded the worst-case outcome of a comminuted fracture of the metatarsal, saving her foot with a bone graft taken from her pelvis. A missing foot would not have paired well with Margareth’s love of the mountains and of climbing.
In all probability the worst time of the Tiers lady’s life was March 2020, when she was intubated in the ICU in Bozen/Bolzano hospital with a severe Covid infection which lasted four weeks, during which time the doctors struggled to save her life. This subject brings tears to the eyes of the strong, self-confident woman, who went on to suffer from the effect of Covid for three long years. However, she fought her way back into her busy life in the spirit of Lebanese poet and philosopher Kahlil Gibran: “The snow and the storm destroy the flower, but its seed they cannot kill.” Margareth Ploner can now enjoy life once more, and get out and about in the countryside and in her beloved mountains. <
The Rosengarten with its surreal rock formations is Margareth Ploner’s home mountain, and is dear to her heart. She loves looking back on the summit-storming days of her youth.
In the rocky outcrops of the Rosengarten, far from the crowded mountain trails, Margareth enjoys the breathtaking beauty and diversity of nature and is filled with eternal awe for the unbridled power of nature.
Margareth has been volunteering as a member of the Board of Administration of Castle Prösels Board of Trustees for many years. The Board is responsible for the maintenance, care and security of the Renaissance castle and grounds, built in around 1200 by the Lords of Völs and later extended by Leonhard of Völs in the early 16th century.
The foot of the “Hammerwand”
His area is home to a number of special spots where the crested devil’s claw flowers. These bellflowers, which grow to a height of 5 to 15 centimetres and bloom in July and August, are a source of utter fascination for Margareth, a great flower lover.
Margareth’s parents gave their daughters security, and were their first great role models. The family shared both joys and sorrows alike, and her parents‘ care for their family and devotion to the village community influenced her greatly.
There are few areas of the Dolomites where their geological evolution can be seen with such clarity as the Geology Trail in the Frötschtal Valley, where you can embark on a journey through time and space.
Idyllic though the Frötschbach river appears to be, when a thunderstorm hit the lands between the Santnerspitze and the Euringer mountains on July 22, 2022, it turned into a raging torrent from one second to the next, carrying away countless tonnes of rocks and trees in its flow, and flooding parts of Seis am Schlern in tsunami-like propor-
The natural history trail along the Frötschbach river is a promise of incredible discoveries.
tions. Along the mountain trail that leads along the Frötschbach from Bad Ratzes to Seis in the Seiser Alm and Schlern direction, you can see the indomitable force of nature in all of its might.
The Geology Trail in the Frötschtal Valley leads hikers on a journey through time spanning 280
million years. This natural history trail illustrates the evolution of the Dolomites, one of the most impressive mountain landscapes in the world. Every layer of the Dolomite mountains can be seen in the deep furrow which the river has carved out beneath the Schlern, while ten stations along the route provide information about the geological peculiarities of this area. While hiking this route, you will come across depositional rocks, volcanic rocks, white and red sedimentary rocks together with red Werfen sequences and yellow-red Richthofen conglomerates. The trail leads past waterfalls and petrified lava columns and is lined with a range of healing herbs and flowers, including meadow sage, dragon’s mouth orchids, eyebright and golden hawk’s beard.
The wide variety of flora and surreal rock formations make the Geology Trail an absolutely unique experience. The set-off point is Bad Ratzes near
Seis (shuttle-bus stop no. 15). After the hotel, cross the wooden bridge over the Frötschbach and follow the trail through the Frötschbach Gully and past spectacular waterfalls. If you follow the trail up to the Prossliner Schwaige mountain hut, in the middle of lush mountain meadows at 1,740 metres above sea level, you can look forward to breathtaking views of the magnificent mountains. The trail then continues down into the valley and on to the Schlernbödele mountain hut, which provides a good opportunity to stop off for a bite to eat. The final stretch curves downwards through the steep mountain forest and back to Bad Ratzes. The Geology Trail is a popular route with hikers returning to Seis from the Seiser Alm or the Schlern. The route (follow trail markers no. 1 and 1A) is around 9.5 kilometres from start to finish, takes around 4 hours to walk, and has an altitude difference of 600 metres. This hike is moderately difficult, and sure-footedness and good physical fitness are essential. <
A number of architects from the Dolomites region Seiser Alm have made a name for themselves through their innovative design features and perspective: One of them is Stefan Rier from noa* - network of architecture. In part 2 of ALPE’s architecture series, Rier, from Seis am Schlern, tells us about his Messner Haus project: A childhood memory which he has transformed into a tangible present-day actuality.
After the hay has been brought in, it’s time to climb to whatever heights you can find and jump down from them to a nice, soft landing on the sweetly-scented fresh hay. Jump and climb back up again, jump, climb, jump again… and finish it all of with a hay fight. Hay-jumping is a popular pastime in the farms of South Tyrol, especially amongst the younger generation, and a source of exultant delight amongst farming children, their friends, and holidaymakers.
Stefan Rier, co-founder of architecture and design studio noa* - network of architecture (Bolzano), comes from Seis am Schlern himself, and, as a child, loved nothing more than “hay jumping” and playing in barns—childhood memories which continue to bring him joy to this day. The architect aimed to incorporate this sensation of happiness into his Messner Haus project, which he designed for himself and his family in the centre of Seis am Schlern. “Perhaps if I had never had these experiences as a child, the notion of designing this house would never have crossed my mind,” says Rier.
Built a few years ago on the site of a derelict building, the Messner Haus may look like any other traditional Alpine building from the outside, but its interior reveals a porous, innovative soul. As Stefan Rier puts it: “We wanted to express the traditional feeling of a barn as a focal feature. Our goal was to integrate the house into the aesthetics and
“Incorporating this building into the traditional, local architecture can also be viewed with irony, or parody. I decided, then, to break with tradition for the interior, and unshackle myself of pre-established restrictions and styles.
Stefan Rierarchitecture of the village, which typically consists of traditional two-building smallholdings with a “fire house” for family and a wooden barn for the animals. The facade of the building was therefore designed with a traditional wooden frame on all sides. “Incorporating this building into the traditional, local architecture can also be viewed with
irony, or parody,” Rier continues. “I decided, then, to break with tradition for the interior, and unshackle myself of pre-established restrictions and styles, including in the materials used; this provided me the opportunity both to look forward into the future, and back in time, to the wonderful years of my childhood.”
The result is an exceptionally open triple-height space concept with no continuous ceiling work. The ground floor features a large, open space layout with three separate islands, distinct in their functions: The “conversation corner,” the dining area and the kitchen, fitted with an exceptionally large cooking area in natural bronze, clad to the side with handcrafted terracotta tiles. The house then stacks vertically, with “floating cubes” taking the place of classic rooms, each positioned at dif-
Stefan Rier was born in Seis am Schlern in 1979 and is a co-founding partner of architecture and design studio noa* - network of architecture together with Lukas Rungger (born 1977) from the Pustertal Valley. Before opening their office in Bolzano in 2010, Rier and Rungger had clocked up almost a decade of experience at home and abroad; they met at their last workplace outwith South Tyrol, when both worked as project managers for renowned architect and designer Matteo Thun in Milan for several years. Although they made fast friends at this time, it was not until later that they discovered that they are closely related: Rungger’s father is also native to Seis am Schlern. When Rier decided to design the Messner Haus project as his own client (see main text) in the early years of the 2000s, he asked his only fellow South Tyrolean colleague to be his dialogue partner. Rungger accepted the offer. Although the Messner Haus project was to take a few years until completion, the joint undertaking led to another joint project between Rier and Rungger which, ultimately, resulted in the founding of noa*: Walter Mulser was planning to extend his Hotel Valentinerhof in St. Valentin, above Seis am Schlern. When Rier asked him if he and Rungger could take over the planning, Mulser agreed on the condition that the municipal building commission accept their proposal at the first attempt. They succeeded in doing just that, and thus the foundation stones for noa* - network of architecture were laid. The architecture and interior design firm now has branches in Berlin, Milan and Turin in addition to their headquarters in Bolzano, and counts a team of around 30 staff. The main focus of the company is the hotel and catering industry, and the tourism sector in general. “My parents’ carpentry business has been working in this sector for decades; after I graduated, this provided me with the opportunity to gain work experience with architects who were, or are, working in this area,” says Rier. “My specialisation was, therefore, more or less a natural evolution.”
ferent heights and connected via stairs and walkways. “When you climb up, you feel like you’re scaling a mountain,” says Rier. The access walkways are not only a practical connection, but also provide space for other purposes such as bookcases and bathrooms with open-space bathtubs and showers (only the WCs are hidden from view). “The entire building,” explains Rier, “is designed such that privacy and intimacy increase along with the height.” Overall, the fully-visible wooden framework is 12 metres high, which also presented a static challenge. The sauna is located in the highest cube, and boasts a view of the 2,414-metre-high Santner peak and the church tower.
Stefan Rier’s principal aim is not to build mere buildings, or to plan for the sake of practicality alone – he wants to create architecture that tells a story.
“Here at noa* - network of architecture, we always want to understand the history of the places we work on, and the emotions they inspire in our clients. Our principal aim is not to build mere buildings, or to plan for the sake of practicality alone—we want to tell stories. This is why we hold ‘kick-off’ meetings with builders before we even begin to take our concepts further. It’s all about understanding the location, understanding the clients, about getting to know both the place and the culture surrounding it. These kick-off meetings can take days to conclude, during which time we look at every aspect of the location in great depth. Emotions, and the feelings that I perceive or see in a place, are a central aspect of our planning. At times we also take a creative approach towards the emotions of the people who will use the building after completion, such as hotel guests. To name one example, we recently planned a hotel where the reception is on the sixth floor, right under the roof, where the simple act of getting there becomes an experience in itself for arriving guests. A similar example can be seen in the saunas which we created for another hotel on a free-floating steel platform; several small house-type buildings with gabled roofs are built atop the platforms and are mirrored on the lower level in inverted form, projecting downwards. Seeing the bigger picture is another aspect which we take very seriously here at noa*. This means that we also take transportation considerations into account for hotel projects, for example.”
The atypical arrangement of the rooms can also be seen from the outside. To the north–towards the main street—the two copper-clad rooms can be seen behind the wooden façade, creating a striking visual contrast. To the south, conversely, the sauna juts out from the glass façade. One of Rier’s project goals, which he achieved through this construction method, was to maximise the natural light entering the building, although there are no windows to the north (“because of the exceptionally heavy traffic flow,” explains Rier).
To add a modern twist to the traditional exterior of the Messner Haus, Rier set off the wood and stone typical of this area with contemporary materials, some with a Mediterranean design. “The synthetic resin flooring, for example, creates a smooth visual flow on the ground floor and contrasts with the burnt tones of the sea-blue tiles, which also clad the kitchen units,” Stefan Rier explains. Brass was used to create the bright, warm accents of the furnishings and the long worktop surrounding the hob. “And the staircase in finely wrought iron is reminiscent of traditional Arabian window grilles, creating an unusual play of light in an Alpine landscape.”
The furnishings were custom-made by local companies, using regionally-sourced materials wherever possible. “The textiles, together with the wood, play a significant role in the quasi-theatrical atmosphere in the house: blue velvet curtains frame the rooms, and offer new, fresh perspectives,” says Rier. “We also chose decorative textiles to furnish the bedroom cubes, while the blue wallpaper also creates a soundproof barrier.”
Rier’s success in upholding, yet adapting, tradition in his Messner Haus is corroborated in the professional awards that he has received for this project, including an Iconic Award for innovative architecture from the German Design Council, and a shortlist placing at the World Architecture Festival (WAF) as one of five projects in the House category. <
with the Combi Card or the Seiser Alm Card Gold
Seiser Alm Card Gold* 127,00 €
Valid for 7 days (after first use) | 18.05. > 13.10.2024
> unrestricted use of the Seiser Alm Aerial Cableway and the Seiser Alm Express (route 10)
> unrestricted use of the Shuttle Bus Service (routes 2, 3, 3A, 5, 13 and 15) and the Almbus (route 11)
> unrestricted use of the Puflatsch Aerial Cableway, the Aerial Lifts Spitzbühl, Panorama, Florian (Seiser Alm) and Marinzen (Castelrotto)
> extra charge for dogs: 14.00 € > the bicycle transport will be charged extra
Combi Card 3 in 7* 65,00 €
Over the course of 7 days (after first use)
> 3 times to the Seiser Alm and back, with the Seiser Alm Aerial Cableway OR the Seiser Alm Express (route 10)
> unrestricted use of the Shuttle Bus Service (routes 2, 3, 3A, 5, 13, 15) and the Almbus (route 11)
> extra charge for bicycles: 29.50 €
> extra charge for dogs: 7.00 €
Combi Card 7* 84,00 €
Valid for 7 days (after first use)
> unrestricted use of the Seiser Alm Aerial Cableway and the Seiser Alm Express (route 10)
> unrestricted use of the Shuttle Bus Service (routes 2, 3, 3A, 5, 13, 15) and the Almbus (route 11)
> extra charge for bicycles: 38.00 €
> extra charge for dogs: 14.00 €
Combi Card 14* 127,00 €
Valid for 14 days (after first use)
> unrestricted use of the Seiser Alm Aerial Cableway and the Seiser Alm Express (route 10)
> unrestricted use of the Shuttle Bus Service (routes 2, 3, 3A, 5, 13, 15) and the Almbus (route 11)
> extra charge for bicycles: 57.50 €
> extra charge for dogs: 28.00 €
YourName&Surname.Cardnottrasferable. withoutauto-mobil
PeriodoGültigkeitszeitraum:7TageabErstentwertung. divalidità:7giornidallaprimavidimazione.Valueperiod:7daysafterfirstuse.
Combi Card Special 3 in 7* Meran 2000 66,00 €
Valid for 7 days (after first use)
> 2 times to the Seiser Alm and back, with the Seiser Alm Aerial Cableway OR the Seiser Alm Express (route 10) and 1 time with the Ropeway Meran 2000 or the Gondola Falzeben into the Hiking Resort Meran 2000
> unrestricted use of the Shuttle Bus Service (routes 2, 3, 3A, 5, 13, 15) and the Almbus (route 11)
> The Combi Card and the Seiser Alm Card Gold are not transferable and are available at all cash desks of the Seiser Alm Aerial Cableway, at the Tourist Offices of Völs am Schlern and Seis am Schlern and at your accommodation.
> Children (born after 01/01/2016) and persons in wheelchairs ride free of charge. Juniors (born after 01/01/2008) pay only half fare.
> Bicycle transport is not included in the Combi Card and in the Seiser Alm Card Gold.
*The Guest Card “Südtirol Alto Adige Guest Pass” from Dolomites region Seiser Alm, which is not available for purchase and is issued free of charge to the guests by the accomodation, includes a price reduction for the Combi Card and for the Seiser Alm Card Gold.
Seiser Alm Aerial Cableway 39040 Seis am Schlern · Schlernstr. 39 Tel. +39 0471 704 270 · www.seiseralmbahn.it · info@seiseralmbahn.it
With its beautiful views and fun-filled adventures, this trail is a guarantee of a fabulous countryside experience.
The Gumperer Trail in Seis am Schlern was designed by children, for children. This six-kilometre-long loop route is relatively easy to walk and guarantees all kinds of adventures.
The word ‘gumpern’ comes from the South Tyrolean dialect, and originally meant ‘to go to the market and trade or exchange goods.’ The significance of the word changed over time, and it is now used to describe playfulness, spontaneity and the act of whiling away the time without the pressures of obligation – in other words, ‘dawdling.’ Is there any one of us who can’t remember those times as a child when, lost in our games, we would forget all notions of place and time until we were reprimanded for “wasting time?” And yet, dawdling is a vital aspect of child development – and it is no less important for adults to stumble upon something new now and again, and to explore and enjoy the countryside with mind, body and spirit. You´ll find a fabulous opportunity to do exactly that in Seis am Schlern, along a loop route that leads past the Malenger Mill, through meadows and forests, and on to breathtaking views. The route features five stations, each with a bench for the adults and a wealth of fun and adventures for children.
Five adventure stations. The Gumperer Trail was the brainchild of Seis am Schlern primary school and the local tourism association: The five stations
were designed by the primary school pupils as a way to encourage visitors young and old to explore the area with all five senses. But even in-between the stations, every sense is stimulated. Which trees and shrubs grow in the dense forests? Which bird is singing in the leaves of the deciduous trees? What do the flowers and herbs along the route smell like? What do the brambles on the wild bush on the drystone wall taste like? What does the moss-covered stone feel like? The stations are designed to heighten our awareness of the sensations we experience in the countryside. ‘Das geht unter die Haut’ (It gets under your skin) is the name of the first station; ‘Ich sehe was, was du nicht siehst’ (I see something you don’t see) is the second, where the aim is to find seven church steeples; then it’s on to station number three, named ‘Immer der Nase nach’ (Always follow your nose), where you can put your sense of smell to the test with five sachets of herbs. The next surprise along the route comes in the form of a fountain with drinking water straight from the Schlern massif and is entitled ‘Mir läuft das Wasser im Mund zusammen’ (My mouth is watering). Last but not least, the final station is jampacked with surprises: ‘Schenk mir dein Ohr’ (Lend
me your ear), where kids listen quietly to the cheerful chirruping of the birds.
Food and drink along the route. The concept was brought to life by the Seis am Schlern tourism association. The trail-maintenance staff ensure that the trail is viable year after year, even after storms, and keep the stations in a good state of repair. When the weather is dry, the roughly 6 km-loop route can be walked without encountering any obstacles from early spring through to late autumn. The Gumperer Trail is at its most beautiful on cool, clear days, but is not recommended in the height of summer. If you bring enough water and some food for a leisurely picnic, it is a wonderful place to while the day away. “But please take your rubbish away with you: We want to keep our countryside clean,” advise the staff members of the Seis am Schlern Tourism Association.
The pure walking time of roughly 2 and a half hours is easily manageable for both older adults and families with young children. However, the trail is not suitable for prams as some of the forest stretches are narrow and steep. For the same reason, we also recommend taking hiking poles along if you are not particularly sure-footed. And even if you are, sturdy shoes are an absolute must! If you are planning to hike the route with very young children, you can rent a child-carrier backpack from the sports shops at the valley station of the Seiser Alm cable car.
The elevation difference of this route is just 300 m, which makes it an easy adventure. There are a number of paces where you can stop off for refreshments enroute but, to be on the safe side, pop into the tourist office beforehand to confirm the opening hours. In any case, it is always a good idea to
pack water and a bite to eat, as you never know how much time you’ll spend ‘dawdling’ as you enjoy the beauty of the countryside. The ‘Furscher’ farm shop is also along the route, and stocks eggs, fruit and vegetables all year round.
If you’re coming from a distance, you can take the Bolzano-Kastelruth bus (no. 170) or one of the Dolomites region shuttle buses to the set-off point in the centre of Seis am Schlern, opposite the tourist office and in front of the Hotel Enzian. From here, follow the signposts slightly downhill towards St. Oswald. At the end of the village, just before Peterlunger, turn left onto trail 7a. Below the Furscherhof farm, trail markers lead the way up to the Karlottenkofel in the heart of the forest: With its magnificent views over the Schlern rocks and
Hauenstein forest with the ruins of Hauenstein and Salegg castles, this spot is simply oozing with magic and mystery. If you’re wondering what all the fences and poles are doing there, the reason is the Oswald von Wolkenstein riding tournament held every year beneath the Schlern: Some of the riders train with their horses in this beautifully located spot. Continue along through the forest until you come to Aussergost, turn off to your left, continue onwards for a short stretch, and then follow the signposts down through the forest to the right. Now stay on the tarred road and continue on towards Seis until you reach the path in front of the St. Vigil church, where you turn off to the left and hike onwards in a slight uphill towards the Malenger Mühle mill. From here, trail no. 7A leads back the Seis village centre. <
Set-off point: Seis village centre
Duration: 2 ½ to 3 hours
Elevation difference: 300 m
Length: 6 km
Recommended seasons: Spring and autumn
Important: This trail is not pram friendly. Please check opening times of catering establishments before setting off.
Bus stops (bus 177) along the route provide the option of shortening your hike.
The artists from the Kofel in Kastelruth: Kastelruth playgroup children, Gabriella Ploner, Willi Trenkwalder (Lizard and Corona), Anna Malfertheiner and Gerlinde Goller (from top left to bottom right)
This coming summer, the Calvary-hill complex the Kofel will once again provide the venue for a coalition of creativity between art and nature: “Art at the foot of the Schlern.”
They paint, they draw, they photograph, they sculpt, and they define themselves as “creatives.” This medley of artists have joined forces to form the association “Kunst unterm Schlern” (“Art at the foot of the Schlern”) and, on the historic Kofel Hill in Kastelruth, have found the perfect stage setting for an exhibition in the heart of nature.
“We are a group of like-minded people between the ages of 18 and 30 who attend courses, exhibitions and museums togethers, exhibit their own works once a year in a gallery, and once every two years at the Kofel in Kastelruth,” says President Evi Gasser as she describes the purpose of the association. Evi herself is an illus-
“Regentor” by Martha Silbernagl and “Goethe” by Loretta Cavicchi
trator of children’s books with an abiding passion for art.
“There are many creative people, but not all of them have the confidence to show their creativity and their work in public,” explains Evi. “We provide them with encouragement and support.” Laying oneself bare with works of one’s own creation is a matter which calls for a considerable degree of courage. “We welcome anybody who takes joy in art,“ says Michaela Pallanch, one of the founding members of the association which embodies a community philosophy inspired by the words of Josef Beuys: “Everyone is an artist.”
Art and the Kofel. Rising up from the heart of the village, the summit of the Kofel hill is just a few minutes’ walk from Kastelruth village centre. After the initial 100 metres of relatively steep ascent, the loop route leads on to the Imperial Jubilee fountain and the Chapel of St. Anthony and alongside a number of baroque chapels, all the while accompanied by magnificent views of the imposing Kastelruth church tower and the Schlern.
The trail is lined with trees and bushes, and is a wonderful area both for kids to run around and for adults to find a spot of peace and quiet. It is here in the heart of this secluded idyll that we find the works of the “creatives,” a vibrant blend of varying genres including paintings, wooden sculptures and upcycled art. Michaela Pallanch loves to upcycle from “junk” and her Kofel exhibits capture the zeitgeist of sustainable creativity. Delicate mobiles hang from the trees and sway in the breeze, while light-hearted caricatures bring a smile to visitors’ faces and secret trails lead the way to hidden works. Willy Trenkwalder’s wooden sculptures are flamboyant and off-beat; one of his 2020 works, a striking depiction of the “coronavirus” ball, has been left standing.
Quirky, thought-provoking on occasion, unfailingly creative and, needless to say, weatherproof, these works of art will once again be bringing life and colour to the Kofel hill in summer 2024, in a fourmonth long exhibition from July to November. <
Anybody who follows their nose through the latespring countryside with their nose on the alert is bound to catch a whiff of it sooner or later: the heady scent of the elder. With its magnificent perfume, the elder fills the air with all of its innate beauty for just a few short weeks before returning to its habitual shy, reserved modesty, appearing almost as though, uncomfortable in the sheer mass of its body, it wants to withdraw into invisibility. For all its reticence, however, the elder thrives happily in almost every garden, and alongside barns, house walls, cemetery walls and, of course, everywhere in the great outdoors. If one were to judge the elder—one of the most common shrub species
in Europe—on its proliferation alone, the only conclusion one could reach is that, like so many things that are available in abundance, it is of no worth whatsoever.
The soil will not dry out while the elder is in bloom (farming lore)
But appearances can be deceptive: The elder is, in fact, one of the most valuable shrubs in Central Europe, and its profusion is a reflection of its undemanding nature and resilience and, undoubtedly, Text: Sylvia Rier
of the high regard it has always enjoyed. And not without good reason: If we look at ancient lore, writes herbalist Weidinger, there is “no other plant in the whole plant world with so many mysterious powers,” and—he continues—these legends are supported by factual evidence. The elder was already considered to be a healing plant in antiquity: elderberry ‘grave goods’ have been found in Stone Age tombs, Hippocrates referred to the plant as a “medicine cabinet” and Thomas Aquinas, Paracelsus and Sebastian Kneipp were also firm believers in the powers of this seductively-scented early-summer plant.
Its flowers and berries were turned into medicines, food and drink, its wood into musical instruments, and its berries also used to dye leather, textiles and hair. To this day the black or red berries of autumn are an excellent source of vitamin C supplies for the winter, whereby, in a complex, time-consuming process, they are boiled down to the prized elder jelly, a miracle cure for coughs and colds. An infusion of the creamy white early-summer blossoms induces sweat, relieves coughs and eases inflammation.
The flowers of the elder show, the grapevine’s fate and true love’s glow; If both should bloom on a full-moon day, good luck and good wine will come your way.
(farming lore)
The reverence in which the unassuming elder was held may well be due to the beautiful legend of its name, and of how it became—to paraphrase the words of Hippocrates—the “medicine chest of country folk.” Germanic lore narrates that a desolate ‘Holunder,’ as the elder is known in German, complained mournfully to the pagan goddess Holle that, unlike other plants, he was of no use to people. Touched to the heart by his sadness, Holla spoke these words:
“It was I who named you “Holler bush,” after my own name […]. I gifted you, who wanted so much to be kind to people, with many healing powers, in your bark, in your blossom and in your thousand berries.”
Poetic though the tale may be, it holds little consensus amongst scientists and linguists, who believe that the dream of the elder is rooted in the Germanic suffix ‘dr[a],’ or ‘tar’ similar to the English ‘tree,’ with its literal meaning being ‘tree of protection.’ One particularly lovely etymological theory, which brings folklore and science together with pragmatic wisdom, postulates that the name of the elder comes from the old High German ‘Holuntar.’
The el-der, or Holun-tar, would be, then, none other than the ‘Tree of Holle.’
When the elder is in blossom, hens lay less (farming lore)
The wealth of sagas, legends and lore surrounding the slender, supple branches of the elder are also a reflection of the significance the elder has always held in the lives of Central Europeans. Tales of a “wise woman” crop up time and again; these include the Virgin Mary as she fled to Egypt, the goddess Holle, and Freya, Norse goddess of love, who found refuge beneath its light branches. Just a few short generations ago, men would still doff their caps when they walked past an elder bush.
A notable connection with the wise-woman lore is that Mother Hulda, to whom the elder is sacred, is also the protector and keeper of unborn children. One legend woven into the tapestry of centuries and generations is that of the “Tree of Life,” which tells of how midwives would bring newborn babies
into the world by “shaking them down from the boughs of the elder.”
When you pass the elder, you must doff your cap (ancient custom)
The central role that the “sacred shrub” held in everyday farming life can be seen in the innumerable tales of elder lore and customs in rural areas. In ancient folklore, the elder was believed to be the home of good spirits which protect nature and animals, and ward off black magic, witches, fire and lightning from home and farm. Cutting down an elder bush was strictly forbidden; if there were no other option, one had to speak a special prayer to ask forgiveness from the tree and the spirits living within it.
Nowadays, reverence of the elder is limited to culinary matters alone. Who, for example, is not familiar with the magnificent elderflower syrup, for which every family has their own closely-kept recipe? There’s nothing more thirst-quenchingly wonderful! The mere thought of the delicious syrup, with its subtle, understated sweetness paired with the delicate acidity of the lemon, cools you down like nothing else on a hot summer’s day. Elderflowers are capable of so much more than “just” syrup, however, and add a delicate, ethereal taste to liqueurs and champagnes, mustard, cakes, soups, chutneys and sauces.
In modern times, the wonderful elderberry has come into its own in the form of main ingredient for the much-loved Hugo Spritz. Mixed for the first time in 2005 by Roland Gruber in Naturns, this cocktail, generally drunk as an aperitif, has conquered lands far beyond the small world of South Tyrol: The blend of elderflower cordial, prosecco, fresh mint and mineral water is like a fresh, sparkling promise of a magnificent summer. <
“Sambucus nigra”, or elderflower to give it its common term, is a much-loved treat in South Tyrol. Both the flowers and berries are generally cooked up into a syrup, for which many households have their own family recipe. Although elderflower fritters are not as commonly seen on menus as they once were, there are numerous family recipes for this delectable treat too. In the interests of making sure that this sweet delicacy does not disappear into the annals of time, the ALPE editorial team would like to offer you their own favourite recipe.
INGREDIENTS
(serves 4)
16 elderflowers
250 g flour
200 ml milk
8 tbsps. mineral water
2 eggs
30 g sugar
1 pinch salt
Vegetable oil or clarified butter to fry
Icing sugar to dust
Shake out the flower clusters gently. Do not wash. Firstly, blend the eggs, sugar, milk, salt and mineral water in a bowl using an electric mixer. Now add the flour, stir gently into a smooth batter and leave to rest for 30 minutes.
Heat the clarified butter or oil in a pan. If bubbles form around the wood when you dip a wooden spoon into the pan, it is hot enough to start frying. Hold the elderflowers by the stem, and dip them carefully into the batter. Fry briefly until golden brown and set to drain on a clean dishtowel. Dust with icing sugar and eat straight away.
Recipe: Barbara PichlerSustainability and a mindful approach to our natural landscape are very important to us. The Dolomites region Seiser Alm is part of the Nature park Schlern-Rosengarten. It is a protected area and a part of the Dolomites UNESCO World Heritage. The project aims to raise awareness of environmentally friendly conduct among visitors, locals and tourism professionals. It seeks to encourage everyone to act respectfully and responsibly in the mountains as well as in everyday life. Its key topics are potable water and waste prevention.
South Tyrolean tap water in the Dolomites region Seiser Alm
Pure. Natural. Fresh. Precious.
Did you know… ... that tap water in our Dolomites region is drinkable and of a high quality? Water, including our drinking water, is a rare and precious commodity. Marked refill spots in the Dolomites region Seiser Alm are available for visitors to refill their own water bottles. A careful and respectful use prevent unnecessary wastage.
Less waste – more nature
Less is more.
Our mountain scenery is a delicate ecosystem. It is extremely important not to leave any rubbish behind: the climate conditions at this altitude slow down decomposition processes. Some waste, such as plastic, does not degrade at all. The best kind of waste is waste that is not produced in the first place.
7 May – 29 June 2024
Fancy a break? When the days get longer in spring and nature awakens, the desire for outdoor exercise increases. With special “Balance” experiences you can recharge your batteries in and with nature. A morning hike to the Tschafon mountain refuge or taking a bath in the forest. The Balance experiences offer movement, relaxation and well-being for body and mind. Plenty good reasons to escape from everyday life for a brief moment. www.seiseralm.it/balance
2 – 16 June 2024
In the theme of “100% Dolomites Region Seiser Alm”, lovers of regional cuisine can look forward to a season-opening gourmet experience of a very special kind; over these two weeks, the star of the show is cuisine that is year-round available, healthy and 100% locally sourced. The event showcases all that is 100% local, and forges the bond between farmers, direct marketers and the local network. The kick-off event “Bergler Harass – Picnicking at the foot of the Rosengarten mountain” on 2nd June 2024 will give the starting signal for the Gourmet Weeks. On 8th June the “Völser Dorfkuchl - A Culinary Delight!” will take place, a must for all epicures and gourmets. www.seiseralm.it/genusswochen
From 1 May to 31 October, Prösels Castle, dating back to the days of Maximilian and arguably Tyrol’s most emblematic castle, is open to the public. Guided tours will offer visitors a fascinating insight into the history of the castle and the infamous Lords of Völs, so closely interwoven in the threads of time. “Martha the Witch” will also be guiding special children tours where children can delve into a realm of fable and fairytales and discover the secrets of the healing arts in days gone by, while children embarking on tours led by Knight Friedrich von Hauenstein will step into a bygone world of knights, knaves and damsels. A series of concerts, readings and seminars round off this castle’s cultural events programme.
Prösels Castle has South Tyrol’s first ever escape room in a castle. Children (9 years old and upwards) accompanied by their parents, young people and adults in groups of up to 5 people can put their skills to the test in intuition, creativity, team spirit, logic, maths and, above all, their ability to learn and have fun. And while the kids are having fun in the all-new play park, their parents can savour the delights of local cuisine in the castle gardens. www.schloss-proesels.it
8 – 12 May 2024
SCHLERN MUSIC
Outstanding artists, picturesque venues, culinary delights: Schlern Music, directed by Chiara Tonelli and Philipp von Steinaecker, invites the audience to experience chamber music in a unique setting. With Camilla Tilling, Maximilian Hornung and many others.
24, 25 and 26 May 2024
41ST OSWALD VON WOLKENSTEIN RIDING TOURNAMENT
3 days, 4 locations and 36 teams: In tribute to knight and minstrel Oswald von Wolkenstein, the three villages of Kastelruth, Seis am Schlern and Völs am Schlern organise a historical riding tournament at its very finest. On 24, 25 and 26 May 2024, visitors of the Oswald von Wolkenstein Riding Tournament can leap back in time to the 14th century and experience life in the Middle Ages, admire the masterly horsemanship and feel the hospitality in South Tyrol. No other riding tournament has the good fortune to be able to offer this kind of culture, tradition, history, sport and folklore all rolled into one single event. This year, the opening ceremony and festive parade take place in the village Seis am Schlern. www.ovwritt.com
14 and 15 June 2024
KASTELRUTHER SPATZEN OPEN-AIR CONCERT
Thousands of fans make their way to Seis am Schlern to enjoy the breath-taking landscape and to experience the “Spatzen” live. They’ll be treating fans and friends to a nostalgia concert of their hits from 1993 to 2021. This coming year, as always, music bands from near and far will be providing fringe entertainment.
Summer 2024
SCHLERN-ROSENGARTEN NATURE PARK VISITOR CENTER
In 2024 a special anniversary is coming up: The Schlern-Rosengarten Nature Park is celebrating its 50th anniversary! On the occasion of this important event, the Visitor Center of the Nature Park in Seis am Schlern invites you on a fascinating journey through the seven Nature Parks of South Tyrol. You can immerse yourself in the amazing biodiversity of these protected areas, experience the magic of these enchanting landscapes and learn about the tireless efforts that preserve these precious natural treasures. The special exhibition also provides an insight into the great diversity of smaller protected areas in South Tyrol, such as biotopes or natural monuments, and finally also addresses Natura 2000 and the Dolomites UNESCO World Heritage. nature-parks.provinz.bz.it
24 June – 9 September 2024
SUMMER CLASSICS IN SEIS AM SCHLERN
Seis offers an extraordinary series of concerts for lovers of classical music. The artists, mainly from Italy and with a wealth of international experience behind them, will be performing the works of great composers. The concerts will be held on Mondays at 9 pm.
DATES
> 24 June 2024
> 1, 8 and 15 July 2024
> 19 and 26 August 2024
> 2 and 9 September 2024
Summer 2024
OPEN-AIR GOURMET EXPERIENCES
Two very unusual open-air gourmet events make for an incredible culinary experience in the Seiser Alm summer: The first event will be the Bergler Harass in Tiers am Rosengarten on June 2, followed by the Berglertafel on July 18, 2024, which is also famed for its breath-taking views to the legendary Rosengarten.
7 July 2024
11TH SEISER ALM
HALF MARATHON
21 kilometres, 601 metres of elevation difference and 700 participants: These are the key statistics of the Seiser Alm Half Marathon on 2 July 2023, which will start and finish in Compatsch. Surrounded by the Dolomites UNESCO World Heritage, the Seiser Alm Half Marathon is a unique experience and sporting challenge for both professional and amateur athletes. The route leads past the majestic Schlern and Plattkofel, as it weaves up to its highest point at 2,050 metres under the Goldknopf and, from here, back to Compatsch. running.seiseralm.it
13 July 2024
7TH ROSENGARTEN
SCHLERN SKY MARATHON
Right in the very heart of the unique Dolomites UNESCO World Heritage, a 45-kilometre Alpine Mountain Marathon with around 3,000 m of elevation difference will set off from Tiers am Rosengarten. The Rosengarten Schlern Sky Marathon. The challenging mountain race will begin in St. Zyprian at 1,136 m asl, lead round the Rosengarten Massif, over the Schlern and the Tschafon and back to Tiers am Rosengarten. The highest point of the Sky Marathon is the Grasleiten Pass at 2,630 m. www.skymarathontiers.it
7 September 2024
TRADITIONAL ALM MARKET
The traditional Alm Market in Compatsch is held every year on 7 September, and features live music, stalls selling a wide variety of goods, and culinary specialities.
Autumn 2024 TRANSHUMANCE
Marking the end of the season and the return of the cattle to the valleys, this festival features whip-crackers, live music and mouthwatering traditional fare. The transhumance from the Seiser Alm to the valley will take place on 5 October and the Völs am Schlern and Tiers am Rosengarten transhumance on 6 October 2024.
11 – 13 October 2024
Three days of celebrating, spending pleasant evenings together, experiencing the “Kastelruther Spatzen” live: the Spatzen-Festival in Kastelruth is a must for every fan. Surrounded by the unique scenery of the Dolomites the seven “Spatzen” mesmerise all lovers of traditional music.
1 – 31 October 2024
47TH VÖLSER KUCHLKASTL KITCHEN PANTRY
The Völser “Kuchlkastl” Kitchen pantry event has been a culinary high point of autumn in the Dolomites region Seiser Alm for 47 years and counting. Foodies and lovers of down-home cuisine can feast to their hearts’ content from 1 to 31 October, when the restaurateurs of Völs warmly welcome guests to enjoy a “Gastronomical October.” The chefs of Völs will be cooking up traditional recipes with a sophisticated twist: Time honoured recipes reinterpreted and served with love. www.voelserkuchlkastl.com
2 September – 30 October 2024
A very special atmosphere awaits you in the golden autumn months in the Dolomites region Seiser Alm. The Seiser Alm mountain autumn brings together outdoor experiences with a magnificent landscape and outstanding cuisine. The programme of events features sunrise hikes to the most beautiful peaks of the Dolomites with breakfast in a mountain refuge, guided hikes, coocery courses and guided tours to local producers. www.seiseralm.it/mountainautumn
When the air is thick with the scent of gingerbread, cinnamon and mulled wine, you know it’s advent time here at the foot of the Schlern. The run-up to Christmas is a meaningful time here in the Dolomites region Seiser Alm; the Christmas markets in the villages of Kastelruth, Seis, Völs and Tiers are small but incredibly beautiful, and are guaranteed to get guests and locals alike into the Christmas spirit, far from the hustle and bustle of the city. With their traditional handcrafts, specialties of South Tyrolean cuisine and Christ-massy melodies, they warmly invite you to join them for a sociable Advent of companionship.
16th Kastelruth
Mountain Christmas
> 6/7/8 December 2024
> 13/14/15 December 2024
> 13/14 December 2024: Christmas concert of the Kastelruther Spatzen
> 20/21/22 December 2024
> 24 December 2024
> 26 December 2024
Waiting for Baby Jesus in Völs am Schlern
> 7/8 December 2024
> 14/15 December 2024
> 21/22 December 2024
> 28/29 December 2024
Mountaineer’s Winter in Tiers am Rosengarten Culinary delight with local products
> 8 December 2024
> 21 December 2024
> 28 December 2024
Seis on Ice
Ice skating with small Christmas market and entertainment programme for young and old.
> Early December - mid-January
Prösels Castle is also open to visitors in winter. Winter castle tours offer a variety-packed alternative to skiing. Every Thursday from 9 January to 13 March 2025, Prösels Castle will be awakening from its winter slumber and open its doors at 3 pm. During a one-hour tour, visitors will learn a wealth of fascinating information about the castle and its former residents and, at the same time, can visit three art exhibitions and a vast weaponry collection. On three days this winter (27.12.2024, 02.01.2025 and 06.03.2025) at 3 pm, the “Winter Cuisine & Culture” event will be held once more at Prösels Castle: After the castle tour, guests will have the opportunity to sample traditional local products free of charge in the castle grounds, where local producers will be hosting an array of stands. www.schloss-proesels.it
Prior booking is essential for winter guided tours, and can be reserved at the Castle up to 12pm on the day of the event: info@schloss-proesels.it
Winter 2024/25
The Nature Experience programme includes full moon hike under the signs of legends in Kastelruth. In Völs, you can enjoy an exquisite gourmet experience named “in vino veritas” and guided tours in the Prösels Castle dedicated to the taste, history and culture. In Tiers, you can explore the rustic Tschamin valley on a snowshoe expedition through the untouched winter countryside and enjoy regional specialties in a hut. On full-moon nights, you have the opportunity to embark on a hike across the snowy Seiser Alm to a hut where a traditional dinner awaits. On four guided morning hikes, you can enjoy a regional breakfast in various huts on the Seiser Alm. www.seiseralm.it/winteradventure
Winter 2024/25
SCHLERN-ROSENGARTEN NATURE PARK VISITOR CENTER
While outside nature is resting, the Visitor Center in Seis am Schlern provides an insight into the diverse and fascinating flora and fauna of the Nature Park Schlern-Rosengarten. This winter a special focus will be on the distand world of the supervolcano, that dominated the centre of what is now the Trentino-South Tyrol region 280 million years ago. The Visitor Center can be visited free of charge during opening hours. nature-parks.provinz.bz.it
January 2025
THE KASTELRUTH FARMER’S WEDDING
Over the years, it has grown to become an established tradition: The Kastelruth Farmer’s Wedding. It is an authentic reproduction of an old-fashioned farmer’s wedding as celebrated since time immemorial here at the foot of the Seiser Alm. The high point of the event is the wedding parade from St. Valentin to Kastelruth. The wedding party, dressed in traditional attire, drive to the centre of Kastelruth in a magnificently decorated horse-drawn sleigh, bringing their guests along with them on a trip back in time to the 19th century.
13 February 2025
A sporting event illuminated by the glow of flickering torchlight, the chance to put your skills to the test at international level, and the magical winter backdrop of Europe’s largest mountain plateau: In 2025, the Moonlight Classic will once again be offering numerous athletes and cross-country fans the chance to spend a sensational evening on the Seiser Alm by night. Participants can opt to take part in either the 30 km or the 15 km variant of the loop route. Both variants begin and end in Compatsch and are raced exclusively in classic diagonal style. The starting pistol for this cross-country spectacle will be fired at 8:00 pm. Registration required: www.moonlightclassic.info
February 2025
Fascinating combination of skis and horsepower! In skijoring, skiers are pulled by horses over a prepared course and engage in exciting races. A spectacular experience for participants and spectators.
> 8 March 2025
On 8 March 2025, on the occasion of International Women’s Day, the Dolomites Dirndl Day will take place on the Seiser Alm. Only women aged 18 and over can take part in this fun sport event in teams of two (friends, sisters, mothers/daughters). The start is in a “dirndl” (a traditional South Tyrolean dress). Part of the registration fee will be donated to the ’Donne aiutano Donne’ association.
March / April 2025
Exclusive skiing experience for early risers followed by breakfast on the Seiser Alm. Weekly, three ski lifts will take turns to start running at 7 am. Early risers will have the unique opportunity to cross the freshly groomed, deserted slopes and enjoy the special morning atmosphere on Europe’s largest mountain plateau, accompanied by a ski instructor who will provide a wealth of handy tips. At 9 am, we’ll be heading to a mountain hut to enjoy a sociable Alpine breakfast.
Wednesday, 5 March 2025
Wednesday, 12 March 2025
Wednesday, 19 March 2025
Wednesday, 26 March 2025
Wednesday, 2 April 2025
March 2025
17TH SWING ON SNOW WINTER MUSIC FESTIVAL
Jazz in the mountain huts, soul on the slopes and traditional tunes in the restaurants in the evenings: musicians from all over the Alpine region will bring musical cheer to the Dolomites region Seiser Alm at the Swing on Snow festival from morning to night. Bands and singers will be getting old and young, winter sports visitors and music lovers alike, into the party mood. The modern interpretation of traditional folk music with jazz, soul and pop reflects the musical culture of the Alps; listeners can swerve in time to the beats and rhythms, and weave their way downhill to the sounds of the tuba, bass, dulcimer and accordion. Concerts will be played at the valley station of the Seiser Alm cableway and the slopes of the Seiser Alm in the mornings and afternoons in the huts and evenings in the villages of Kastelruth, Seis am Schlern, Völs am Schlern and Tiers am Rosengarten. www.swingonsnow.com
#TeamSeiserAlm celebrates a triumphant season. With an incredible 7 podiums in 7 races Patrick Pigneter, natural track luger from Völs, dominated the World Cup races. In addition to taking first place in the European Championships, his superb performances secured his place as Overall World Cup Champion in natural track luge and propelled him to star status in his sport. Equally remarkable was the performance by Andrea Vötter from Völs am Schlern in artificial track luge double seater: With 10 podiums in 12 World Cup races, she claimed the overall World Cup victory, won the small crystal globe in both sprint and classic events, and claimed the title of World Sprint Champion. Alpine ski racer Florian Schieder from Kastelruth achieved an impressive second place on the challenging Streif in Kitzbühel. He also placed fourth in the Wengen downhill races, and was ranked in the top 15 in the downhill races a total of 5 times. Telemarker Raphael Mahlknecht from Völs am Schlern likewise demonstrated his immense talent, securing second place in the Sprint World Cup in Carezza and Livigno. Overall, he took 5th place in the sprint rankings and 6th place in the Overall World Cup rankings. These stunning achievements reflect the intense training, tireless dedication and talent of our athletes. We are proud of them all, and wish them all the best of continued success.
“Wherever I lay my laptop, that’s my office.” How about making that place the centre of Kastelruth with a view of the Dolomites? We offer you the perfect blend of work and vacation. After all, checking our emails, mulling over a project or joining a video conference while we’re on holiday is something that we all do anyway—so why not do it in comfort? Clean, quiet, discreet, and fully equipped with the latest technology, the SOSS co-working space provides affordable workspaces to suit all needs, from hot desks to a private office and a meeting room for 8 people with 55” screen and video conferencing system. The best way to get to the co-working space is on foot or by bus: the bus stops are just a few minutes’ walk away. And when you’re done for the day, you can get out into the open air and enjoy all the adventure of the Dolomites. www.soss.bz.it
+39 0471 709 600, Fax +39 0471 704 199, info@alpedisiusi.info, www.seiseralm.it. Legally responsible for the editorial content: Elisabeth Augustin
Editorial Team: Elisabeth Augustin, Rosa Maria
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