Virgins wear the crown Historical costumes through the ages.
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Smart girls from Castelrotto in virginal gown during the procession.
From virginal gown to attire for the Feast of the Virgin Mary. According to well-known local historian Hans Fink, this special costume was originally also used as a bridal gown, as suggested by the colourful shiny “crown”, similar to the traditional bridal headwear seen in other regions. Later, it became the custom to celebrate peasant weddings in winter, when there was enough time available for the elaborate preparations. Since that time, if a bride weds in traditional costume, she celebrates her wedding day in warm, dark clothing – with an apron of black watered silk and a green, broadbrimmed hat entwined with a myrtle branch. Practically the only occasion on which this traditional costume is now worn by girls is at church processions, when they bear the statue of the Immaculate Mother of God and act as her companions. This is why, over the course of time, this beautiful garment is generally now known only as the costume worn for the Feast of the Virgin Mary. Sign of wealth. “Traditional costumes”, says Fink, “have changed again and again over the centuries”. Ever since the late Middle Ages, the rural population, once plainly dressed in homespun textiles such as brown loden and greyish linen, have copied the example set by the townsfolk and the aristocracy. Castelrotto offered them many an occasion to do so, as the Krausen family, wealthy Hungarian nobles, settled there in 1556, holding court in splendid fashion and providing a wonderful model for imitation. Of course, not everyone could afford to follow the new fashions. “In principle, it was also always snobbery and the amount of money in their pocket that
decided whether people bought an expensive or a simple costume”, says Hans Fink, explaining the reason for the many different varieties. The richest farmers did not at any rate baulk at the costs of plush silk, fine linen and woollen fabrics, Venetian lace, richly embroidered leather belts or silver and gold jewellery; they confidently showed off their wealth and, on high days and holidays, their wives and offspring too could be seen wearing splendid clothing. Lace and brocade. A long black skirt and a white linen blouse with highly starched, short puff sleeves, the ends embellished by wide pieces of ruffled lace, form the basic costume for the Feast of the Virgin. To this is added a white lace cape collar (worn over the bodice), on which the wearer’s embroidered monogram can clearly be seen. Under this the young woman wears a red brocade bodice, adorned with green velvet ribbons and decorated with a red silk brocade insert, corded at the front with twenty silver hooks and a piece of gold braid. This finery is completed by a long silver chain worn on the chest and looped around several times. The arms are covered with white crocheted “Tatzlen”, or fingerless gloves, used in the past to conceal the suntanned skin that was characteristic of the rural population who worked outdoors, as opposed to the town dwellers and aristocracy.
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n the past, each social class had its own traditional costume. These also varied according to a person’s age or marital status. Thus there were many different traditional costumes and, in the villages under the Sciliar mountain, several forms have persisted until today – a good dozen or so for both males and females. The traditional costume for unmarried women, distinguished by the colour white – for centuries considered to be a symbol of purity and virginity – is highly detailed, even ostentatious, yet taken as a whole, harmonious.
Text: Rosa Maria Erlacher Photo: Helmuth Rier
The apron with its colourful silk ribbons is made of white cloth, with flat, black shoes adorned with green silk ribbons worn over red woollen stockings. The most striking feature is without doubt the headdress, a cylindrical “crown” of colourful, shiny material, secured with red silk ribbons at the back beneath the wearer’s plaits. Summery festive costume. The lightweight design of this historical costume leads us to conclude that it was only worn in the warmer season. This was ingenious, as it meant that girls did not need to wear any unsightly protection against the cold and their magnificent apparel was there for all to see. This matter of timing is still apparent, as the processions for the Festival of the Sacred Heart, the local saint’s day, Corpus Christi and Harvest Festival are all features of the summer months. «
Summer | ALPE 33