VOLUME 05
C E L E B R AT I N G T H E C R E AT I V E L I F E S T Y L E A N D T H O S E W H O L I V E I T
A CONTEMPORARY SPACE FOR CONTEMPORARY ARTISTS
Oglethorpe Gallery Exhibit in the Heart of Downtown Savannah
OGLETHORPE GALLERY 406 E OGLETHORPE AVE, SAVANNAH, 31401 GA Oglethorpe Gallery | 406 East Oglethorpe AveGA | Savannah
(Troo-vay) verb past | French : F O U N D
CONTRIBUTORS TO VOLUME 05
MENGDI JIN Artist
MADDY STAIRES Model
TIAN SHI Writer, Photographer
GRACE STEVENS Painter
RACHEL MURRAY Model
TIANYI WANG Writer
LEAH BAILEY Designer
ANNIEMORT SMITH Model
CALLOWAY KANDT Writer
AARON HALL CAIN Photographer
MARTHA JOHNSTON Photographer
AMANDA LIFFERS Writer
YUREN ZHANG Photographer
RACHAEL HORST Photographer
CHLOE DASCOLI Writer
KATIE WALKER Photographer
CORBIN CHASE Photographer
ASHLEE CRUZ Writer, Photographer
HEEJUNG KIM Photographer
For the Makers
Fabrika Fine Fabrics 2A E LIBERTY ST, SAVANNAH, GA 31401
“Be happy in the moment, that’s enough. Each moment is all we need, not more.” - M O T H E R T E RE S A
WELCOME TO VOLUME 05
The Mindfulness Issue Stop and smell the roses. In the fast-paced world we live in, it can sometimes feel as though you are falling behind, so you run full speed ahead in an attempt to catch up. We have See Now, Buy Now fashion, where you can instantly purchase the designer outfit you see on the runway. Walking down the street, it is nearly impossible to make any real social interaction or even eye contact because all eyes are glued to smartphones, affixed on the latest trending this or that. There is no time for those mundane day-to-day tasks, such as grocery shopping, so you just order online and have your groceries delivered to your doorstep. While none of these modern-day conveniences are inherently bad, collectively they have changed our society’s definition of time, quality, and value. In this issue, we are taking the time to think and evaluate what we do and why we do it. Mindfulness, to us, means intentionality- looking up from your screens to smile at faces, being aware of what you are putting in your body, taking the time to prepare a healthy meal and stepping outside of your home, your city, your world, and escaping for a little while. A healthy mind and body is worth the effort. We also want to encourage you to find your inner peace and confidence. Focus on who you are at your very core, and live life according to your own personal values and beliefs. As creatives, this is so imperative. Who you are at your core is bound to show through in your work. Artists owe it to themselves to re-focus, and take the time to search within for inspiration. I want to congratulate the interviewees, writers, and photographers who have exemplified the very essence of mindfulness in their work. I hope that you are inspired by them to take some time for yourselves. Maybe go for a walk. Define what mindfulness means for you and what that looks like in your creative pursuits. And don’t forget to stop and smell the roses. Creatively, Calloway Kandt, Issue 05 Editor
9
ARTISTS / DESIGNERS
PHOTOGRAPHY
MENGDI JIN Artist
AARON HALL CAIN Photographer
CHLOE DASCOLI Writer
KATIE WALKER Photographer
GRACE STEVENS Painter
MARTHA JOHNSTON Photographer
YUREN ZHANG Photographer
RACHAEL HORST Photographer CORBIN CHASE Photographer HEEJUNG KIM Photographer
MAKERS
PHILIP BROWN http://perccoffee.com/ PERC Coffee Roasters TAYLOR KIMBALL http://perccoffee.com/ PERC Coffee Roasters
SPACES
OUR TEAM
Fabrika Fine Fabrics https://fabrikafinefabrics.wordpress.com/ A E Liberty St, Savannah, GA 31401
ASHLEE CRUZ Creative Director
Oglethorpe Gallery http://oglethorpegallery.com/ 406 E Oglethorpe Ave, Savannah, GA 31401 PERC Coffee Roasters http://perccoffee.com/ 1802 E Broad St, Savannah, GA 31401
To learn more about our partners or to become a partner in future issues, visit trouvemag.com/partner
CALLOWAY KANDT Editorial Director TIANYI WANG Editorial Producer TIAN SHI Concept Director AMANDA LIFFERS Interview Assistant
LGB Design House http://www.thedesignhousesav.com/ 317 East Liberty Street Parlour Level Savannah, GA 31401
11
M E E T T HE M AKERS | Our Volume 05 Partners
Due Diligence This editorial directory is dedicated to our partners. A well-curated and diverse “classifieds� section comprised of creatives that are supporting Trouve Volume 05 and what we stand for. These individuals are passionate about what they do, and are making the world a little more creative, and a little more inspiring along the way. With our deepest thanks and our full recommendation, here is true creativity found.
12
MEANING................................3
Theme
Living
Explor ing t he p os i t i ves of l i vi ng a mi nd ful lifest y le; w ha t i t mea ns , how i t d i ffer s for ever y one, how t o fi nd i t , a nd how t o l i ve i t .
H ow i t b ecomes a l i fes t yl e a nd how i t a ff e c ts your s ur round i ng s , food , hea l t h, a nd wa y o f t hi nki ng .
G E T T I N G S TA R T E D . . . . . . . . 2 0
DESIGNER: ALEXANDRA PA N A R E T O S . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 4
WELCOME...............................5 CONTRIBUTORS........................6 FROM THE EDITOR....................9 C R E AT I V I T Y F O U N D . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 0
A SPIRITUAL ROUTINE...22
SHUT OFF THE SWITCH.......................38 FA R M T O TA B L E : S A L A D S FOR YOUR SOUL...........50
16
Occupation
Visual Art
Taking Care
How c are e r m en and w omen separ at e t h em s el ve s f ro m th e i r busy lifest y les t o t ake t i me and f i g u re o u t w hat t hey are passionat e a b out, an d h o w to b ri ng t hat t o t heir indust r ies.
How ar t ist s t a ke t hei r mea ni ng of mi nd ful nes s and t r anslat e i t t o w r i t i ng , fa s hi on, p hot og r a p hy, and fine w o r ks .
Somet i mes med i t a t i on ca n ma ni fes t i n d iff e re n t for ms . One p op ul a r met hod i s t hrou gh se lf ca re, or t he reha b i l i t a t i ng of one’s b o dy a n d mi nd .
E M B R A C I N G I N N O VAT I O N AND TECHNOLOGY IN TEXTILES.....................62
THE SHINES OF LIFE.....94
THE ART OF SKINCARE....128
RECYCLING GARMENTS I N T O A R T. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 6
T U N I N G O U T. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 3 6
THE I M P O R TA N C E OF PA S S I O N : PERC COFFEE ROASTERS...................74 GRACE STEVENS...........86
T H E T R AV E L W R I T E R . . . . 1 4 0 WORDS OF WISDOM....148
17
The Mindfulness Issue
Getting Started WOR D S F R O M T HE CREATIV E DIRECTOR Ashlee Cruz
I often fall too easily for the idea of instant gratification. Growing up as a millennial, as much as I like to deny it: everything was handed to me. If I didn’t have money to pay for a movie, I can simply look up the torrent online and have it on my hard drive in less than ten minutes. My peers could me reached with a text, which they sometimes reply within seconds to. My expectations are skewed, in a harmful way. There was a year I went to one self defense course, expecting to be fine. Going to one Krav Maga class will not be enough to master the martial art, but I almost expect it to be. Why couldn’t I be as successful or as skilled as some of
20
my peers (even though they’ve been immersed in the industry for years longer than I have)? I have become very hard on myself, simply for needing time and practice. It is difficult to remove yourself from the same expectations. How does one cope with our rapid economy and modern lifestyle? In the process of making this magazine, I was worried about stepping on too many toes. Coming from back-end development, it was very hard to find peace with work that wasn’t constant. Making a magazine isn’t like working in a studio for hours, although it requires the same amount of time
and work, if not moreso. This time around, it was a lot of on-and-off, stopping then going. My peace was found when photographing, because I was in total control of how the picture was going to come out. That was not the case with many aspects of the magazine, and I came to the realization that not everything had to be under my control. It was okay to take a deep breath and let go. More importantly, trust your teammates. They are in the same game as you, and they are also learning new things along the way. They can teach you a lot, because they do not have the same
perspectives and experiences you do. It’s important to respect their space and emotions while getting work done. Try not to step on any toes, but also do not let others do the same. Finding a balance between work and friendship can be difficult, because you want to look out for others. Everyone has personal lives and issues they deal with, and it’s important to hear them out. It’s also important to separate the two when needed. Some days are bad, and that’s okay. Other times, you feel proud and confident that you can take on any challenge... and that is another discourse about biting off more than you can chew.
“Kindness is not about instant gratification. More often, it’s akin to a low-risk investment that appreciates steadily over time. ”
Feeling good about your work can be difficult, paraphrasing Ira Glass: your tastes may not match your skill level. At times, I felt impostor syndrome coming on, thinking my work was not as good as I thought it was. It’s also a skill to learn to quiet that negative voice, and take your work in stride. Your good taste in design is what got you in the game, and all you have to do is keep working on it. Nobody becomes a master overnight. Whether it is martial arts, painting, or design, it can take years to be successful. However, it’s important to pat yourself on the back when you do your best. Work hard, have a code of ethics, and be good company.
21
To Help You Unwind An introduction of brewing and drinking tea as a spiritual activity that could ease people’s anxiety in daily life.
A Spiritual Routine PHOTOGRAPHS Martha Johnston
Tea is one of the world’s healthiest drinks. Studies show
Tang Dynasty poet. Cha Jing is the name of the book, and
that tea is the second drink of choice after water, with several
its content is well preserved and still serves as a reference and
health benefits, especially in green tea. It helps people with
textbook today for those studying tea culture.
their immune system, protects against a few types of diseases
Overall, Gongfu Tea is a special way to brew and drink
including skin cancer, and also has anti-aging properties.
tea. It is particularly popular in the south of China, but has
There are more tea drinkers than ever before, and it seems
already developed into a healthy lifestyle activity that has been
like tea has been more widely accepted by the west lately.
performed in all areas of China and surrounding countries.
But is that really the case? Perhaps as a beverage, yes, but the
Gongfu Tea is distinguishable by the small size of the teapots
cultural prospect of tea is seldom recognized anymore, and is
and teacups. One cup of tea is equivalent to one shot of a
an important lost aspect of the true tea experience.
drink, and people need to redo the process again and again to
Tea is really important in Asian culture. It is almost a ritual
24
WORDS Tianyi Wang
keep drinking.
ceremony for the people who truly love it. It is included in
The entire process itself is pretty enjoyable and relaxing.
the seven things that people cannot live without. Teas are
The point of drinking Gongfu Tea is to slowly drink it and
originally from China; its history can be traced back to 750
really experience the aroma and taste of the tea leaves, and to
B.C.- 800 B.C. when the first book of tea was written by a
truly feel how the taste evolves in your mouth. The process of
brewing tea is almost like spiritual therapy for most people.
There are eight steps to cook Gongfu Tea, and each step
Repetition eases people’s anxiety and outside pressures.
has its own special names that relate back to Chinese history.
The inner peace and tranquility can be achieved by fully
Due to the difficulty and loss of meaning in translation, these
concentrating on the process. The movement involved in this
names are not introduced, but the steps are stated below.
process of making tea is so graceful that it has even become a performance piece in itself.
25
Step 1: Wash the teacups and teapot with boiling water. Step 2: Put the tea leaves into the teapot. This step is usually done with a small tea spoon. Avoid using your hand because the smells and moistures of your hand may affect the tea leaves’ taste. Step 3: Wait for the water to boil. Cha Jing divided the water boiling process into three degrees. And different tea leaves require different degrees of water. First degree: small bubbles like fish eyes, low sound. Second degree: continuous bubbles at the edges. Third degree: rolling bubbles on the entire water surface like waves. The most commonly used degree is the second degree. The third degree is overcooked which would make the color of tea darker, and the taste less smooth. Also, the overcooked water contains nitrite, which is not healthy if consumed frequently. Step 4: Pour the boiled water into the teapot. The water needs to be poured in at the edge of the 26
teapot, not straight into the middle. If poured into the center, the aroma of the tea leaves would volatilize quickly. By doing it the correct way, the perfume of the tea will remain in the teapot. Step 5: Eliminate the surface bubbles created from pouring the water. This step tests the make of the teapot. With a good teapot, the water will stop just at the top. That way, it is easy to calm the water’s surface without any spilled water. Step 6: Pour boiled water again over the outside of the teapot. By doing this, the heat comes both from the inside and the outside, which allows the perfume of the tea to permeate in the teapot. Also, while waiting for the water to dry, there is time for the tea to brew. Step 7: Pour boiled water into the teacup and then pour the water out again. This is to prepare the teacup for the tea. The heat is the emphasis here.
Step 8: Pour the tea into each cup for drinking. Redo the whole process again if more than four cups of tea are needed.
27
Remembering is just an invention of the mind. It is too easy to get lost in your thoughts and forget your surroundings.
Spaces
A L E X A N D R A PA N A R E T O S | S H U T O F F T H E S W I T C H How it becomes a lifest y le and how i t a ffect s your s ur round i ng s , food , hea l t h, a nd w a y of t hi nki ng .
ALEXANDRA PANARETOS WORDS Calloway Kandt
I met Alexandra Panaretos at her downtown apartment for the interview, and immediately felt relaxed as I sat down on her plush blue velvet couch in her open loft space with beautiful high ceilings. Warm light was streaming in through the windows as the sun went down, bouncing off of the mirrors, the willow patterned ceramics and refracting through the glass chandelier above us. Ironically, mindfulness- the idea of finding simplicityis a loaded word and difficult to achieve. She struggled to put into words her own definition of it, even though
32
it is something she experiences and implements into her everyday life. As an interior design student at the Savannah College of Art and Design, she does this so effortlessly that she does not even realize it. I felt a sense of calm just in the way she decorated her apartment, but then she showed me some designs she has been working on. Her clean, calming and comfortable aesthetic was evident throughout each space. Mindfulness is a key ingredient to her designs and is inherently a part of who she is as a creative. Last summer, Alexandra was given the opportunity to
explore an avenue of mindfulnesstake something you already have and make it new again. An aspect of mindfulness is the ability to be resourceful and find satisfaction in recreating the old and finding newness. Phoebe Howard hired her on as an intern, and for those few months, Alexandra was able to transform three different showroom spaces given only two guidelinesleave it better than you found it, and use what you can find within the store or warehouse. In the following interview, we discussed her inspiration as a designer, her internship, and her future career plans.
What brought you to SCAD? And
What is your design aesthetic or
How Did You Choose Interior
style?
Design?
A: I received my first degree in Art History at Furman University, but I realized that I was really interested in making interior design my career. Well, I’ve always been interested in it. My mom went to school for interior design, and we moved around alot, so I got to see her design our houses that we would build and move into. That really sparked my interest. I chose SCAD because they’re rated number one in the country for interior design. When I visited, it really impressed me.
A: I have always liked french country, and spanish too, but that is very specific to certain areas of the country. So, that is not really something you can do all the time. Yeah, I really like the french country style, traditional and transitional… those are my preferred styles that I like to work with. What is the career of your dreams? How do you plan on pursuing your career in Interior Design?
35
A: As far as my dream job, specifically, I am unsure. I just know the type of work I think I would enjoy. I would like to work in the hospitality field of interior design, which means hotels, restaurants and bars. It is more about getting to experience that bigger scale of design. After graduating… it is not required for all designers, but I would like to be certified. That means a big exam called the NCIDQ. There are three different parts… I think it is multiple choice and technical drawings or construction documents ( like floor plans, elevations, sections…). After you pass that… well, you also have to have at least 2 years work experience and then pass the exam to be certified. It is highly recommended by SCAD, and it opens you up to more jobs, it pays more, and you really just have a lot more respect, I think. It is hard, but I think it is a better way to go in the industry, so that’s the plan. Tell us about your opportunity that you had this summer?
A: Yes, I had an internship with a designer, Phoebe Howard. She has different stores in Jacksonville, Atlanta, and Charlotte. I was at the Atlanta location, and she actually has two there - Mrs. Howard and Max and Company. I helped out with basic intern needs and within the showrooms in the store... bedrooms, sitting rooms, dining rooms.
36
The girls that work there flip a room every couple months, then Phoebe comes in to judge it, picks the best and gives them a bonus. Of course, I was not included for the bonus as an intern, but I still got to flip. I got to work in three showrooms this summer. I changed a sitting room to a bedroom, a dining room to sitting room, and kept a sitting room/ bedroom the same, just with different furniture and layout. I had to pick furniture they already had in either the store or the warehouse, discover a new layout, and measure everything. Transforming spaces was my biggest challenge, but I really enjoyed it. You were able to use what the space already had and transform it. What were you able to learn from that? Was it maybe good practice for an avenue you want to go down in the industry ( a future career using that practice )?
A: It was definitely good practice, although challenges came with it- layout, using what they had in stock… working with what they give you because sometimes that is how it is in this industry. You need to get creative and see what is going to work. Yeah, using the same things can really transform a space, though. You can make a room look smaller or bigger, and you have to think about circulation. You cannot have the space too cluttered, but you also need to consider the details like artwork.
How
would
you
describe
“Mindfulness” as it pertains to Interior Design, and how would you implement it in your own design endeavors? Do you practice feng shui?
A: When thinking about a space that calms me or helps me unwind, I think of that french country or spanish look. When I come home, I really enjoy the colors that surround me. I have a lot of blues and greens and whites, with an open layout and natural light. A lot of natural light is really helpful because it improves your mood. As a designer, I have to focus on where light is coming in and where certain things will be placed within the space. Another element that can create a better atmosphere overall is keeping candles going. Good smells put me in a good mood, so that is my personal preference. In the end, though, when you are working, you can’t focus on yourself but on your client. My job will be to just give them everything I have learned because that is why they are hiring me.
I consider feng shui… if it helps the space. It is more about the feeling, practicality and function for the particular space than following a rule book for me. I do take feng shui into account when I am trying to change things up after awhile, though.
Shut Off the Switch Leah Bailey Interview
PHOTOGRAPHS Ashlee Cruz
In the heart of Savannah lies an interior Design House with a very unique aesthetic. Leah Bailey has found a way to incorporate her degree from Savannah College of Art and Design, and create a personal space for any client that comes to her. When talking with Leah, I learned so much about how she operates and stays mindful in the strenuous work that she does. During our interview, she made me feel both comfortable and very relaxed. Her personality really shone through. I was able to laugh with her as well as listen and take in everything that she was saying.
WORDS Amanda Liffers
For any artist, inspiration can come from many different sources. For Leah, she pulls her aesthetic from architecture, magazines, and spaces and places that are classically designed. The idea of being mindful is imperative to Leah’s area of work. As an interior designer, she wants to make sure that when she takes on a new client, they are able to fully trust her. Leah is able to create personal living spaces for other people to enjoy by making sure there is a clear line of communication and overall understanding between herself and her client(s). Through a seemingly extensive 39
process of finding out the clients’ likes and dislikes, Leah is able to satisfy her customers with the knowledge that she has picked up on and, ultimately, give the client a new space they are sure to adore. Leah also said that her job can take many variations of trial and errors, until perfection is found in every detail of the space.
Leah is someone who puts others first. On days that she becomes too overwhelmed, she likes to take a buying trip or just go out for a latenight cocktail in an effort to unwind with her other coworkers. She tries to not let her work consume her, so that is why every day at 6:00pm she “shuts off the switch�. She detaches from her work-mode
and re-focuses on her life as a mother. Leah stressed the importance of this personal ritual of hers. Sometimes, we all get so caught up in our busy lives and the routine that slightly changes from time-totime that we forget to have a moment for ourselves -where we can sit back and just enjoy the time we have.
L G B D E S IGN HO U S E P h o to g ra p h e d b y A s h l e e Cru z
44
Wellness
FA R M T O TA B L E Taking care of y our body as a m ea ns of s t a yi ng i n t une w i t h your mi nd a nd s ur round i ng s .
Farm to Table: Salads for Your Soul Curated Recipes
PHOTOGRAPHS Martha Johnston
WORDS Calloway Kandt
When food is so fresh and picked straight from the farm, you want to cherish it. Rarely do we get the opportunity to have gardens or visit local farms, but a stroll through your weekend farmer’s market will remind you of the process your dinner takes from seed to the table. Salads are often viewed as extremely healthy, yet leave us feeling hungry. These recipes are the exception, with well-rounded ingredients from greens to proteins.
51
This composed salad is an artful arrangement of greens, hard-boiled eggs, smoked tofu, beets and snap peas drizzled with a cool, creamy dill dressing. It is as pleasing to the eye as it is to the palate. We like smoked tofu, but any flavored baked tofu would work well in this recipe. Serve with iced tea.
52
Smoked Tofu and Snap Peas
SM O K E D TOFU A N D SN A P P E A SA LA D GREENS Boston or Bibb Lettuce Snap Peas Pickled Red Beets Diced Tomatoes
HERBS AND SPICES Lemon Juice Salt
PROTEIN Hard Boiled Eggs Firm Tofu
DRESSING Sour Cream Fresh Dill
55
Tuna and Rosemary Citrus Salad The lighter of the two recipes, this salad is well balanced, yet full of flavor. Garbanzo beans perfectly complement the tuna. Rosemary and citrus add a clean zest to the entree, making it a refreshing summer meal or a midday pick-me-up.
57
T U N A A N D ROSE M A RY C I T R US SA LA D GREENS Baby spinach and arugula Red bell pepper Red onion
HERBS AND SPICES Fresh rosemary Cayenne pepper Chia Seeds
58
PROTEIN Tuna Vegetarian option: chickpeas
DRESSING Fresh squeezed lemon juice Extra virgin olive oil
Industry
E M B R A C I N G I N N O VAT I O N A N D T E C H N O L O G Y I N T E X T I L E S How career men and w o men s ep a r a t e t hems el ves from t hei r b us y l i fes t yl es t o t ake t ime and fi g ure out w ha t t hey a re p a s s i ona t e a b out .
62
Embracing Innovation and Technology in Textiles Queen of Raw Interview
PHOTOGRAPHS Corbin Chase
There have long been misconceptions about the fashion industry. Vanity, shallowness and materialism are just a few destructive adjectives on a long list of words that people commonly think about fashion. Beyond those who are involved in the fashion industry, others seldom know what fashion truly is, and what fashion professionals truly do. It is not simply wearing expensive clothes and shoes, carrying expensive bags, or even traveling around the world for shows. People only see what is on the surface, then they stop there and neglect to dig deeper. The fashion industry does not get the
WORDS Tianyi Wang
appreciation it deserves. Within any fashion brand lies complex values such as sustainability, technology and innovation. There is a deeply rooted invisible line connecting the values of fashion to society that, on the surface, can go unseen. More importantly, there are people who are committed to making the world a better place; living out their dream in the fashion industry means carrying out their value-driven goals. We want to introduce you to Queen of Raw, an online e-commerce brand and platform for sustainable and innovative textiles. 63
Queen of Raw: The online destination for emerging designers to source raw materials.
64
Queen of Raw was founded in 2014 in New York City by CEO Stephanie Benedetto. Stephanie has a background as a corporate attorney representing fashion, textile and technology brands. She saw emerging designers struggling to source their raw materials and started Queen of Raw in hopes of solving that problem. There is an excess of fabrics and trims that are sitting in warehouses and eventually ending up in landfills around the world. Meanwhile students, graduates and start-up designers struggle to source fabrics due to high prices and minimum order requirements. Queen of Raw works with manufacturers to help them get rid of their extra inventory, and then delivers the unused
fabric and trims to the hands of emerging designers at a lower price and lower minimum order requirement. Not only does Queen of Raw connect manufacturers and designers, they also offer textiles and trims you cannot find elsewhere and probably have never seen before. With sustainability in mind, Queen of Raw envisions a day when technology will rule the textile industry. They are interested in anything that is sustainable and innovative. They hunt for materials produced with recycled goods, using little to no chemicals in the process. Another way Queen of Raw likes to ensure the best quality is by working with factories that produce locally. Stephanie herself has a manufacturing facility called Paper No. 9 in Brooklyn that produces paper alternative leathers by applying recycled paper, natural oils and emollients onto sustainable denims and canvas. Paper No. 9 represents the ideal supplier for Queen of Raw.
66
Sustainability is deeply rooted in Stephanie’s mind and this is evident in the way she chooses to run her businesses. Paper No. 9’s leather alternatives, as well as her tech-involved materials like the LED light ribbon and 3D printed buttons, are sold on Queen of Raw. Stephanie believes in being consistently one step ahead in the realm of creating innovative materials. Queen of Raw recently showcased the LED ribbon and the dress they embroidered for New York Fashion Week 2016, showing people how fashion and technology can be combined. Believe it or not, many of these tech-involved materials are produced with a low carbon footprint and usage of water. Stephanie also believes in providing products to empower customers. Besides being an e-commerce site, Queen of Raw also serves as a destination of inspiration. By browsing through their website, customers can get ideas for their next textile creation. The platform allows customers to create mood boards using images of current selling materials, and then the designers can decide if they want to purchase the materials or not after seeing it all
laid out. What is Mindfulness as it pertains to fashion or any business in general? We think Queen of Raw tells you the answers. Mindfulness in business takes both its supplier and customer in mind. Queen of Raw sees current issues and has clear goals of what they wish to achieve. They know what matters to them, as well as what matters to the industry and the planet. With every step they take forward, they enhance their companies core values- sustainability, innovation and inspiration- which in turn benefits the industry and the planet. They have their vision of the future, and believe that they have the ability to reach it first. That is the picture of mindfulness in a brand.
We were thrilled to have the opportunity to talk with Stephanie and let her share her thoughts with us.
Interview with Stephanie Benedetto CEO of the Queen of Raw.
68
Can you tell us about how you started Queen of Raw, why you chose the textile industry, and what inspired you? My family has been in the textiles business for over 100 years. In 1896, my great grandfather arrived in New York by ship from Austria and landed at Ellis Island. After settling in the Lower East Side, he became a master furrier, crafting custom fur coats, bolero jackets, and stoles. Textiles and fashion are in my blood. So after six years as a corporate attorney on Wall Street representing technology, fashion, and startup clients, I started an innovative textile manufacturing facility. It’s here that I saw first-hand the disconnect between supply and demand. Brands across industries all struggle to find raw materials. And factories around the world struggle to sell the millions of tons of excess stock that currently sits in a warehouse and eventually makes its way to a landfill. Queen of Raw becomes the bridge.
What was your first goal or first idea for Queen of Raw? Is it different from what it is right now? From the beginning, Queen of Raw stood for three predictions about the future of fashion: independent designers will rule, the old school way of doing things will be obsolete, and innovation and sustainability will matter. That being said, as an entrepreneur I’ve always said: Don’t be afraid! Don’t be afraid to take risks, put your ideas out there, and test your solution in the market — these are important steps to being able to improve your offering and iterate your product effectively. So that’s what we did. I know that the Queen of Raw is all about innovation, inspiration, technology in fashion and sustainability. Can you talk about these values? Were all of these values in your mind when you first thought of starting up Queen of Raw? Going along with our three predictions
about the future of fashion, Queen of Raw’s core values were established by the team from the beginning: First, students and emerging, independent designers come first. Second, always challenge the status quo. Third, find closed doors and open them. Fourth, change the world. And we keep them in mind with every decision that we make.
Can you talk a little bit more about the sustainability side of the company? Why do you think it matters? How do you implement it? There are some great textile manufacturers doing innovative things: smart fabrics with connected threads and micro-LEDs, fabrics derived from recycled plastic bottles; milk-based, coffee-based, and bacteria-based textiles; fabrics printed by 3D printers. But there’s no easy way for designers to source these materials directly from suppliers. That’s where we come in. We take a very broad approach to sustainability. For us it includes materials that are made locally, recycled/reused/ repurposed in some way, made with organic materials
that meet certain certifications or in a factory that embodies Fair Trade principles, or use some innovative manufacturing process that saves water, toxins, or energy. We estimate that by 2025, Queen of Raw can save over 4 billion gallons of water and 2 million pounds of chemicals.
69
What do you think about Fast Fashion? What impact do you think it has on the textile industry? Little known fact — the textile industry is second only to agriculture as the biggest polluter of clean water globally. The dyeing, rinsing, and treatment of textiles release toxic chemicals into our water supply that cannot be filtered or removed. Think of your favorite cotton T-shirt. It requires 700 gallons of water and a pound of chemicals to produce. That’s enough water for one person to drink for three years. And that’s just one shirt — more than 2 billion shirts are sold worldwide each year. If we continue at the current pace, two-thirds of the entire world’s population will face shortages of freshwater and be exposed to these hazardous chemicals by 2025. Our vision is to build the number one platform for sustainable sourcing across industries. If we can inform decision-making in real time, we can empower designers to design smarter. Replacing the conventional cotton in a single T-shirt with organic cotton cuts the chemicaluse down to zero and requires only 10 gallons of water to produce. Organic cotton is also softer, thicker, lasts longer, and is on-trend in a growing market.
How do you define “Mindfulness” in fashion, when it comes to running a business or designing a new fabric or garment? The future of fashion is a world with no clothes…at least not clothes in the traditional sense. Imagine people being able to design custom clothes to their exact specification and style on their computer, tablet, or phone, send the designs to a hotel halfway around the world, and then fly to that destination with no suitcase. After arriving there, they find all the clothes are 3D printed in their closet. When their travels are over, they leave everything behind to be broken down into raw materials and then redistributed to the next person. That is “mindfulness” in fashion and Queen of Raw wants to get you there.
Is your life changed in anyway because of Queen of Raw? Are you happy doing it? I firmly believe that together we can change the world! Queen of Raw is my vehicle to make that happen. And knowing that makes all the difference.
70
Makers
T H E I M P O R TA N C E O F PA S S I O N | G R A C E S T E V E N S W hat t hey are passionat e a b out , a nd how t o b r i ng t ha t t o t hei r i nd us t r i es .
The Importance of Passion: PERC Coffee Roasters An Interview with Philip Brown PHOTOGRAPHS Ashlee Cruz
WORDS Ashlee Cruz & Amanda Liffers
Take something as simple as roasting coffee. Start with a highly dedicated yet sincere owner whose primary goal is to bring a new edge to a timeless profession. Savannah was severely lacking in the coffee scene, so add a team of incredibly skilled employees who love their jobs and the result is a cup of PERC coffee. This is the recipe Philip Brown follows every day that has brought him success in his Savannah company.
borhood of locals and senior citizens. Walking up to the unassuming, industrial exterior of PERC in midtown Savannah, Georgia, one would not expect to open those metal doors to a large, open-air space and the delicious aroma of a multitude of fresh coffees brewing. At first you feel like a fly on the wall, but you are instantly welcomed in like family.
Going to the location can be a little bit From the scent of fresh coffee being daunting. It is past the train tracks to- roasted to the smiling faces of all the ward the east side of town, in a neigh- employees, you feel open and ready for
74
anything. Owned by South Carolina native, Philip Brown’s mission is to re-invent the appreciation for coffee one roast at a time. Philip hails from Athens, where he started as a barista and managed Jittery Joe’s and played with the Elephant 6 collective (Elf Power, Neutral Milk Hotel, Of Montreal, etc). His cafe became a local venue for the cult
76
recording company as well as for his own band, Summer Hymns. The collective was known to be passionate, and they likely had an effect on how Phil seeks out his employees. He has been able to bring together a group of individuals who all share the same passion- an exquisite strain of coffee. Not only is PERC all about great customer service, they also opened up a storefront at the
warehouse to brew their coffee in ways other Savannah cafes do not. In the back are their two industrial roasters, and next to them are burlap sacks of uncooked coffee beans, stacked one on top of the other. Despite being haphazardly placed, Taylor Kimball, Phil’s right hand man, explains how picky they are when selecting their beans. “They have to be
the best quality,” he says. They have a large US importer that they trust to select the highest quality coffee. Every batch is tested before being packaged. When people come in for a great cup of coffee, they are not just getting that. The idea of a small-town coffee shop can become old sometimes, but PERC has made its name go above and beyond giving people
the ultimate brewing experience. Sitting down at the rustic tables, one gets a general listing of all the options for coffee you can get. When Phil interviews someone, he chooses not to look at their resume. He looks for their passions, what they love to do, and their goals-- not the ones with prior experience at a coffee shop. Being in PERC, it was easy to tell that everyone had a quiet enthusiasm for making the best
77
“Key employers sometimes don’t value their workers and so, because of that, the company isn’t as great as it could be.”
coffee. They tune into music and start the they want it done right. Phil still runs a process of making “a good damn cup� of business, and these cafes are his biggest joe. representatives. He intuitively knows good branding and emotional marketing, Making coffee is a very personal which truly helps spread the good word experience, and PERC is one of those ex- of PERC Coffee. The next time that you periences that creates the memory of your are out and about in Savannah, make sure first cup of really great coffee. Students that you head on over to enjoy the experiand locals alike comment on how PERC ence that is PERC. was their introduction to good coffee, and that is exactly what Phil wanted to provide for the city. Now, they sell their wholesale beans to cities as far as Austin and Miami. However, they are particular about who brews their coffee, as
82
83
Words From a Maker An interview with oil painter, Grace Stevens
GRACE STEVENS PHOTOGRAPHS Heejung Kim WORDS Calloway Kandt
If you were to walk into my apartment right now, you would be welcomed by a beautiful golden retriever, followed by a cloud of golden dog hair. Step into my living room and breath in the fumes of hot glue, paint and other various art materials. There is my trundle bed rolled out onto the floor for an outof-town guest. This is the norm for my roommate, Grace Stevens, and I as art students approaching finals week at SCAD. Add on top of that, planning a wedding and working ahead to finish classes early, and that is Grace’s life right now. Amongst life’s beautiful chaos, Grace has kept her calm demeanor and handled her stress with, yes, grace. I am in awe of her ability to balance both her work and personal life’s responsibilities. She is cutting wood for canvases and picking out bridesmaids dresses, all in a day’s work. When I first met Grace two years ago, I remember admiring her chill personality and choice to study a traditional, fine art. Now, as her roommate, I have
the opportunity to see her in her element, executing some finishing touches- such as enhancing the appearance of light breaking through clouds- with the theme song to Friends playing in the backgroundalways. Seeing this final collection come together has been like waiting for the trees to change colors in fall; and now, they are complete and on display for all to enjoy their beauty. Grace recently had her first gallery show, which is the last step for a SCAD senior painter about to step into the real world. Standing in Oglethorpe Gallery with a glass of wine in hand, I was able to admire her works in a much more appropriate setting than our living room. Her works certainly belong in galleries, and I cannot wait to attend the gallery shows yet to come as she carries out her dream career as a fine artist. In our interview, Grace describes her life as an artist and how she implemented mindfulness into her senior collection and show TRANSCENDENTIA. 87
TELL US ABOUT YOUR SENIOR SERIES. HOW DID IT ALL COME TOGETHER?
-What really first brought me to have a love for art and for viewing art was landscape. I was always really drawn to that. It really fascinated me how artists could make these beautiful landscapes with light- like a sunrise or sunsetthat really inspired me. Also, being in nature, even as a kid, I felt this connection to God and creation… just being out in nature with what he created and feeling that closeness to him because of that. So, when developing my senior series, I realized the challenge of doing landscaping is that it has been done for centuries. So, going into it, that was something that my professors brought up to me. ‘How are you going to bring this into today and make it relevant?.. Because if art is not relevant to the time you are in, then what are you doing?’ That was really a challenge for me, as an artist wanting to do pretty classical landscape paintings. So, in my exploring that, I do feel like I was able to bring landscape into something that was personal to me and still have it be the more classical idea of landscape. So, not rejecting that and not saying that, you know, that I don’t want to do that... and not just doing that was the challenge. I do feel like with my particular work I am embracing the old, but also trying to look at it as something that is relevant today. Oil paint is what I am using specifically for my show. Another thing I really do enjoy is water-
“...Because if art is not relevant to the time you are in, then what are you doing?”
IS THIS SERIES A GOOD EXAMPLE OF YOUR FAVORITE STYLE AND USE OF MEDIA?
- I do. I do think that my senior show is something that has been in the back of my head ever since I even started painting or came to SCAD. One of the things I really wanted to do was this series. You know, through SCAD, you are able to experience a lot of different things and a lot of different media and you’re really pushed lots of different directions, which is great, but I do think the senior show is something that I’ve actually been working on for years to get to this point; I think it is a good example of what I hope to do in the future as well. color and pen and ink. I view those as having more of a sketch-like feel to it. I enjoy those in a different way… as more of a study. I would like to go further with them. I would like to get back into them. I do kind of view them as a separate thing from my senior show. [My senior show] is a series of work that I wish to pursue, with the landscape and the oil paint, but I also like to do different series as well. You know, as an artist, you have this ability to really do whatever you want, and go in any vein you want. But the one thing that I want to do is pursue a certain series for awhile. I do think that watercolor can play a role in that, as a study, or to allow me to really get outside. Watercolor is very portable, and the pen and ink is very handy, so I do like that aspect of that material. And I do think that it can go along with the landscape oil paintings, but at this point, just coming out of college, I am more focused on the landscape oil paintings. WHEN AND HOW CAN WE SEE YOUR WORK?
- In our final class at SCAD, we have the op-
portunity of putting together a legitimate, do-it-yourself exhibition. So, our group is made up of three artists. We all feel like we share some similarities in our work. We are dealing light as our main subject matter, and the idea of something beyond the physical, so Transcendentia is the word that we feel represents our work. The show is at Oglethorpe Gallery, on November 11th from 6-9pm. It is an opening reception, so just come and hang out. We will have our artist statements and our bio’s and our resume’s all ready and available for people to read. You really get a chance to talk to the artists. It is a celebration of the end of our time here at SCAD, and kind of a way to jump start our careers as artists and give us the know-how and momentum so that we can continue to show after graduation.
In Art
YUREN ZHANG: THE SHINES OF LIFE
THE SHINES OF LIFE PHOTOGRAPHS Yuren Zhang
WORDS Tianyi Wang
Most people never know what life really is. What makes life beautiful and mindful is how you appreciate it.
“…medicine, law, business, engineering, these are noble pursuits and necessary to sustain life. But poetry, beauty, romance, love, these are what we stay alive for.” John Keating, Dead Poets Society
I was in awe the first time Yuren showed his photography to me. I am a close friend of Yuren’s. We have known each other for almost 10 years, since we sat at the same desk in middle school. We would hang out, fight, and joke around with each other. We would talk about our future plans, life, the problems and sadness in life. I felt like I knew everything about him, but I never would have thought that the images he showed me were taken by him. Looking at the photography, there is a special feeling that slowly spreads in my heart; it is hard to describe, but I know his photos touch me. Maybe it is because I picture the photographer to be someone that is so different from the friend I know. Yuren’s photos stand out because they go beyond just beautiful imagery. His photos make you think and evoke a range of emotions. There are narratives existing within them. You can almost imagine a scene or a story behind each photo. And there is a feeling of peacefulness and tranquility in his work. Yuren is a senior at UC Davis, majoring in Economics and Statistics, with a minor in Managerial Economics, working day and night in the library, wrestling with
numbers and data. He never studied photography, but rather explored and taught himself everything he knows on the subject. Surprising, no? As he works toward completing two majors and one minor within four years, plus an internship in the summer, he still makes time over the breaks to travel to various places to capture those stunning images. That is an appreciation of life. So many people are bogged down by life’s pressures nowadays. They feel as though they are suffocating from the stress that work and relationships can bring. Thankfully, life has more to offer than the trifles and difficulties laid out in front of them, but it is harder to find the good. Really, how do people find the shines of life? How does someone appreciate life and embrace the mindfulness amidst a taxing day? Yuren shows us how he escapes. John Keating, a character from a 1989 film Dead Poets Society once said “…medicine, law, business, engineering, these are noble pursuits and necessary to sustain life. But poetry, beauty, romance, love, these are what we stay alive for.” Photography is how Yuren stays alive, and shines in his mindful view of the life around him. I couldn’t help but to share his work with you. 93
2015 Summer, Lijiang, Yunnan Province, China
ĺ?¤ĺ&#x;Ž Gu Cheng
Ancient City
The memories of the past, lives and deaths, happiness and sadness; everything that happened in the past is now only remembered through the ancient walls, the red paint, and mottled stones. They stand there for hundreds and thousands of years silently and quietly to carry the history.
94
2013 Summer Beijing China
95
2013 Summer, Beijing, China
96
2013 Summer, Chengdu, Sichuan Province,
97
98
2015 Winter, Lake Tahoe, US
99
2014 Autum, UC Davis, UAS
100
2014 Autum, UC Davis, US
一叶知秋
The Story of leaves
Trees and leaves, they are the first to know the coming of the seasons.
101
2016 Spring, Fairbanks, Alaska, US
102
Impermanence is a principle of harmony. When we don’t struggle against it, we are in harmony with reality. – Pema Chodron 103
2015 Summer Benesse House Museum Japan 104
2015 Summer Benesse House Museum Japan
艺术
Arts
2014 Spring, Musuem of Modern Art, New York, US
2013 Winterr, Museum of Modern Art, New York US
2015 Summer 106
Nashima Japan
2015 Summer, Benesse House Museum Japan
107
飞鸟
2016 Spring, HWY 1 Califonia, US
108
The Flying Birds
2016 Spring, HWY 1 Califonia, US
109
2016 Spring, Fairbanks, Alaska, US
110
111
Material
R E C Y C LY I N G G A R M E N T S I N T O A R T | T H E A R T O F S K I N C A R E How ar t ist s t ake t hei r mea ni ng of mi nd ful nes s a nd t r a ns l a t e i t t o fashion, p hot og r a p hy, a nd fi ne w or ks .
Designer Mengdi Jin Model Anniemort Smith Photographs Aaron Hall Cain Photography Assistant Samantha Lee Benson Styling Tian Shi / Tianyi Wang / Ashlee Cruz
Recycling Garments Into Art Mengdi Jin Interview
We interviewed fashion designer Mengdi Jin about her internal process and how she takes in her surroundings to pick her her choice of materials. What inspired "Withered Plant"? A: This collection was inspired from an accident. We all know accidents happen every day. It seems like a sad topic, but I want to show accidents in an artistic way through this garment. Artist John Chamberlain did a lot of artwork about
broken cars and items in a colorful way, and his artwork inspired me- we can give broken items a second chance to show their beauty. So, I deconstructed a garment to create this broken feeling. In addition, I printed human organs on the front of the fabric and pieced textiles to replicate the spinal cord. All these details show the gory details of accidents in a new feeling. Your first piece is called "Savannah". What about this town is seen in the 115
106
garment? A: For this wearable fiber art work, I am inspired by old Savannah glamour. I have lived here for three years. Savannah has a lot of beautiful views that other places don't have. Savannah is a historical garden town with varied flowers and plants. Being surrounded by plants make people feel r e l ax e d a n d h a p py. A s we a l l k n ow, some people living in big cities suffer from overwhelming pressure. Through my design, I want to bring Savannah’s plants and happiness to people. Because Savannah is a very old and historic city, I always see plants growing through
118
windows. This is really impressive to me. I think it is a charming part of Savannah. I used recycled fake flowers and denim flowers to show this. Savannah shows a different way to see how plants can grow with architecture. Savannah’s people are friendly, warm, and soft-hearted. I have used soft yarn to reflect the attitude and heart of Savannah. For my choice of materials, I have used: fake flowers, denim, yarn, plastic net, and woven fabric. All of my materials are recycled-- I want people to give trash a second chance to be useful and pretty.
"There lies an even deeper natural world in each and every small plant that we see every day in nature. These plants repeat the cycle of birth and death in perpetuity. Though unseen by the naked eye, this cycle is host to a range of expressions, rich activity, and a sense of motion. " - Tomoya Matsuura
123
‘JUNGLE’ represents passion, vitality, and color. It is a gorgeous gift by nature. The law of the JUNGLE means animals and plants are in peaceful coexistence.
In my design, these characters mix together to create a colorful, peaceful and passionate ‘JUNGLE’. I try to create a mess texture. I cut various yarns tied together to make fabric, having a mess[y] feeling. In my further design, I want to use my fabric into furniture, because modern people who live in a big city, they rarely have time or space to grow green plants in their house.
124
THE JUNGLE ARTIST Mengdi Jin
PHOTOGRAPHS Tian Shi 125
RHAPSODY ARTIST Mengdi Jin
PHOTOGRAPHS Tian Shi
This textile collection called ‘Rhapsody’, which is inspired by Picasso’s portrait paintings. Picasso’s paintings have so many bright colors, screwy bodies and dislocated facial features. These characteristics are what I want to show in felting. So in my felting, color and facial composition are two important elements. In addition, I try to mix materials with felting making it look fun and vivid.
126
127
The Art of Skincare PHOTOGRAPHS Katie Walker
New beauty is about decoration-- highlighting the features you are proud of. Old beauty has been about concealing or covering up so-called flaws. It is only recently that women and men began to embrace the features they were born with. They boast their faces proudly. Our Routine: Taking care of what is precious. There is a surge in skincare and natural beauty products that hit the market, all with the similar idea of maintenance. Rather than the instant gratification of makeup, skincare sets you up for a regular routine that,
WORDS
Ashlee Cruz
in a sense, teaches discipline and the value of maintained practice. A skincare routine is not one formed overnight (no pun intended), rather it takes a few tries to get it quite right. Ingredients are an important part, since mixing the wrong exfoliator and moisturizer can result in closed comedones or acne. Vitamin C and niacinamide are both great brighteners but negate each other when used simultaneously. Retinol helps mainly with complex correction and anti-aging but should only be used at night or with SPF.
129
beau·ty ‘byoode/ noun. a combination of qualities, such as shape, color, or form, that pleases the aesthetic senses, especially the sight. 2. a combination of qualities that pleases the intellect or moral sense.
Above are the top results for the definition of beauty, and neither align with the modern idea of the word. We think of “beauty” being followed immediately by “standards,” as if there are set rules to which a person’s features are considered aesthetically pleasing.
130
Consider nighttime the most important. This is when you take the day off and start bare again, while daytime is prep time for what you tackle until sundown. Here we have a mid-range routine with the best products I could find. This works best for normal-dry skin.
131
P.M. Cleansing: Glossier Milky Jelly Cleanser $16 This doubles as a facial wash and an oil cleanser, as you can apply it to dry skin to remove makeup or apply to wet skin to remove dirt and impurities. It has a great moisturizing quality and smells of rosewater. Exfoliator: Konjac Sponge $4 Our konjac is black due to activated charcoal. Unlike most scrubs, it will not cause microabrasions, although I recommend using this twice a week. It is gentle as an exfoliant, yet a powerful detoxifier for skin. Serum and Moisturizer: Manuka Doctor Brightening Facial Oil $28 Multitaskers are always great, and this facial oil is chock full of antioxidants to help energize dulled skin from late nights or second hand smoke. It is recommended to only use this at night or under a sunscreen, as some oils in the blend can make your skin photosensitive. Apply after cleansing or exfoliating.
A.M. SPF: CeraVe AM Moisturizer $14 Sunscreen is the most important part of any skincare routine, since sun damage is truly what ages skin the most. It is recommended that you wear at least SPF 30 and reapply every two hours, although we can’t judge if you forget (we always do). This moisturizer doubles as a sunscreen and leaves your skin the perfect amount of dewy and plump without a white cast. 132
Musk: Aesop Reverence Aromatique Hand Balm $27
I use this hand cream as a to-go body lotion, but it smells divine enough to use as a fragrance. The smell is genderless- a mixture of woody, earthy, and citrus. Its non-greasy texture makes application super easy, and its matte hydration means you won’t leave streaks on your phone. You will definitely catch some compliments from someone who walks past and catches the naturally fresh fragrance.
Decoration: Celebrating Ourselves When it comes to a special occasion, or just wanting to have a good day, we may want a little highlight here or there to stand out from the crowd. It is our way of saying, “I’m different and proud!” We may want to show off our wide set eyes, bushy brows, or unique bone structures.
Rouge: RMS Beauty Lip Shine in Honest $25 Described as a rose-nude color, this fair trade certified organic lip shine works for both your lips and cheeks. It adds a very natural pout to lips and gives the effect of both a highlighter and blush for your cheeks. The neutral color suits many skin tones as well.
Eyes: W3LL PEOPLE Expressionist Mascara $22 What sets this mascara apart is that its ingredients are all-natural (and considering how close your lashes are to your eyes, most mascaras should follow suit). As someone with sparse eyelashes, this chemical-free mascara does a great job curling, thickening, and lengthening while still leaving my makeup looking natural, no pun intended. As a plus, the formula is nutrient-rich.
135
Tuning Out When it comes time for me to listen to music that calms me, I rely on songs that will take me on a relaxing journey. Music that can carry me away from busy moments of the day, and I can shut out the rest of the world for three minutes. I can lose myself in the beautiful masterpieces that are consisted in this playlist…Relax. Slow down. Enjoy. Music is an important part of unwinding and getting out of your head. The Trouve team has a few songs in mind that we would like to share with you. Take them as suggestions. Listen to one or listen to them all... just enjoy.
SOON W E ’ LL BE F O UN D SIA
L IGHT S O UT AN GE L OL SEN
WI IN G WI IN G H Y UK OH
PALM T R E E N I G H T LES RA Q U E T
GIB R ALTA R B E IR UT
VID EO GIRL FK A TWIGS
M ILK A N D T O A ST AN D HO N E Y ROXETT E
J UM P IN G FEN CES O L IV IA TREMOR CON TROL
WH ISTL E BL ACK P IN K
ON BL U E M O U N TAIN F OXYGE N
T R AIN UN D ER WATER B R IGHT EY ES
SOMETH IN G ABOUT Y OU H AY D EN JAMES
WH ILE M Y G U I TA R GE N T LY WEEP S JAKE SH I M A BU K U R O
M O N TAU K MON STER L AUR A S TEVEN SON
I H OP E TOMORROW IS LI KE TOD AY GUSTER
WEIGHT O F LO V E T H E BL A C K K E Y S
136
R IL L O TA L K W IL D CH IL D
LIBERT E CARLA B R U N I
I DO N ’T WAN N A BE FUN N Y AN YM O RE L UCY DA CUS
BAP TIZE M Y M I ND JON F O R E M A N
CHO S E N B L O O D ORAN GE
AL L OF GOD ’S CH IL D REN JON FOREMAN BL UE SK Y TH E AL L MAN BROTH ERS H OMEWARD BOUN D SIMON AN D GARFUN K EL
JACKSO N VI LLE SUFJAN ST E V E NS IN MY A R M S JON F O R E M A N A BAL LA D F RANC O I S T H E B E R GE BLUE I N G R E E N M ILES D AV I S F ISH CLARA C NO O N E K N O WS T WIN D A N G E R
“Beautiful music is the art of the prophets that can calm the agitations of the soul; it is one of the most magnificent and delightful presents God has given us. ”
TARO ALT- J SEVEN TEEN K EREN AN N I AM ME ON CE MORE Z EE AVI L ET H ER GO PASSEN GER I’D RATH ER BE WITH Y OU JOSH UA RAD IN P ERTH BON IVER
SUMME R 78 YANN T I E R SE N
O’ SISTER CITY AN D COL OUR
REF LE C T I O N LEA S A LO N G A
COMES AN D GOES GREG L ASWEL L
T IRED M A G I C I A N BY LAD Y D A NVI LLE
H ID E AN D SEEK IMOGEN H EAP
137
Reflecting
T H E T R AV E L W R I T E R Somet imes medit at ion ca n ma ni fes t i n d i fferent for ms : t hroug h s el f- ca re, or t he reh a b i l i t a t i ng of one’s b od y a nd mi nd .
Have you ever met someone who truly views life as one great adventure? Someone who you know wakes up every morning itching to go somewhere different and explore anything and everything they have yet to see? Chloe Dascoli is that person, and has appropriately chosen a career as a travel writer. Despite still being in school, she has wasted no time getting out into the world, and already has so many stories to tell.
The Travel Writer WORDS Chloe Dascoli PHOTOGRAPHS Rachael Joyce Horst
The art of writing is truly a gift that only few have. Even then, a writer must develop her own voice, and have patience when staring at blank pages waiting for inspiration to show up. I believe this gift has been instilled in Chloe at her very core; it is a need to record the beautiful world she beholds with every new encounter. This article recounts Chloe’s seemingly magical time in Iceland about three years ago. Her descriptions are so vivid, she takes you there with her. Chloe has also shared a few travel tips and tricks should you decide to venture to Iceland yourself.
IN THE LAND OF MAKE BELIEVE I huddled in my tent as the sun began to set behind the pristine waters of Lake Myvatn in northern Iceland. The temperature dropped just as quickly as the light faded. The Aurora Borealis (northern lights) was in a peak year and I was prepared to wait out the long, cold hours of the night to catch a glimpse of their show. Finally, when I couldn’t feel my toes any longer, the first rays of neon light broke the black sky. Every inhale delivered pure oxygen to my lungs. There is a simplicity, a rawness, in the outermost, untouched reaches of the world. Despite the modern age of technology, Iceland’s isolation has kept it unadulterated from the influence of other cultures and industrialization. In Iceland there is a saying—“everyone has a book in their stomach.” In the dark winter months, with not many options, the people of this small island turned to storytelling. Stories passed down through
generations remain intact and a part of the modern culture. The majority of Icelanders still believe in the huldufólk, or the hidden people of Icelandic folklore. It is even still considered bad luck not to believe in them. Between the Aurora and the otherworldly environment vast imagination seems only natural. A week earlier on my drive from the airport to the capitol, Reykjavík, I saw nothing but rolling hills of volcanic rock coated in a thick blanket of moss. Dark clouds hovered in the sky— a permanent fixture. I knew instantly this land held more treasure and secrets than I could have ever imagined. The only thing keeping tourists away was the idea that Iceland was an uninhabited wasteland in the unreachable arctic. The features of Iceland and the elements that formed them have attributed to the island being known as the land of fire and ice. Stillactive volcanoes gave first life to the island- their residue creating the rough-hewn, rocky landscape.
143
“I knew instantly this land held more treasure and secrets than I could have ever imagined.” But the cold, winter currents of the arctic bring rain and snow to mix with the lava and sulphur. An hour from Reykjavík sits Goδafoss—a waterfall more powerful than Niagara. The wind and spray hit with unexpected force. Falls sprinkle the land. Every mile it seems boasts a new curtain of clear rushing water. Framed by lush green, they all forcefully descend from their lofty perch to crash into the earth below. Almost as numerous as the waterfalls are the natural hot springs. Dotted throughout the island these pockets of heat just under the surface of the earth make for a soothing natural spa as well as Mother Nature’s most efficient oven. Rúgbrauδ is one of Iceland’s staple baked goods. The rye bread is placed in a basket or pot and buried underground near a hot spring. The finished product tastes just as natural and pure as the land surrounding the springs. Drive around the island and in between pull-offs to capture each of the numerous waterfalls you will start to see the tips of Vatnajökull—Europe’s largest glacier. The mass of snow and ice stretches its arms down out of the mountains— an eerie menace at first glance. Time, weather, and the footprints of eager adventurers have shaped the edges of the mass— darkening the pure snow with dirt. Keep driving and you will notice an absence of power lines dotting the landscape; few structures anywhere, outside the
144
capitol. Where man-made features are lacking, nature breaks through uninhibited. Horses, roaming the land wild and free, dominate. The majestic creatures are honored and revered by Icelanders. Brought in when Vikings settled in the 10th century, Icelandic horses are a pure breed that has flourished for over 1,000 years. With no natural predators, the strong horses have adapted to maintain a friendly demeanor—a trait expressed throughout Iceland. A sense of peace reigns here. Despite having Viking predecessors—a people with a legacy for war and violence—modern day Icelanders are a gentle people. Little crime disrupts the flow of life and the government (the world’s oldest parliament) has no military. The natural wonder of this seemingly make-believe land captured my breath and amazed me. But the friendly, small-town hospitality of the people captured my heart and hold it captive.
W H E RE TO STAY
WHEN T O GO
For a true natural experience consider camping around the island. Rent tents, sleeping bags, and mats through Iceland Camping Equipment. For a homey stay on the main street in Reykjavik, try Reykjavik Residence Hotel. In Hofn, try Mjolkurstodin (Milk Factory). Some rooms have views of Vatnajokull—the glacier is only a 10 minute drive. For a taste of the local hospitality, try a home-stay with Couchsurfing.
The Aurora Borealis (northern lights) peak in the winter months when the sun sets earlier and the temperatures drop. Crowds thin out as well with the freezing weather. Other parts of the island (such as public transportation, buses, and some sights) shut down or have limited availability with the slow down in tourists. Of course the Iceland experience is amplified when not competing with other visitors.
IN SIDE R KN OW-HO W: IC ELAND’S RING RO AD At about 800 miles all the way around, the Ring Road and the Golden Circle can be driven in less than 24 hours. Whether you have a few days or a couple of weeks there’s plenty to fill your time.
G E TTIN G A ROU N D
W HE RE TO E AT
The surest way to get around the island is by car. Either rent a car through Orange Car Rental or Auto Europe. As rental insurance in Europe can be pricey, try using a car share service like Carpooling in Iceland that connects people with a car to people who need a ride. For the budget-friendly and those looking to meet locals and other travelers, hitchhiking is not uncommon on the island and is safe.
To prepare for the wait to see the Aurora, fill up at Vogafjos near Lake Myvatn. Eat traditional Icelandic food (including rúgbrauδ) with a view of the farm’s cows through windows that look into the barn. In Reykjavik, try a soup bread bowl to warm your insides at Svarta Kaffid.
HO T S PRINGS Along the Golden Circle stop by Gamla Laugin near Fludir for a quiet bathe in the pool built in 1891. Just under two hours from Reykjavik along the Ring Road is Seljavellir near Eyjaflallajokull volcano. To warm up before the vibrant northern lights show go to Myvatn Nature Baths. For a higher end experience visit the Blue Lagoon, about an hour from Reykjavik.
Photograph: Chloe Dascoli
Words of Wisdom
Wherever you are, be all there. - JIM ELLIOT
Feelings are just visitors, let them come and go.
Just slow down. Slow down your speech. Slow down your breathing. Slow down your walking. Slow down your eating. And let this slower, steadier pace perfume your mind. Just slow down…
- MOOJI
- DOKO
Talk to yourself like you would to someone you love.
Some people say you are going the wrong way, when it’s simply a way of your own.
- BRENE BROWN
- ANGELINA JOLIE
This is a wonderful day. I’ve never seen this one before. - MAYA ANGELOU
The secret to living well and longer is: eat half, walk double, laugh triple and love without measure. - TIBETAN PROVERB
You must learn to master a new way to think before you can master a new way to be. - MARIANNE WILLIAMSON
The body benefits from movement, and the mind benefits from stillness. - SAKYONG MIPHAM
When you talk, you are only repeating what you already know. But if you listen, you may learn something new. - DALAI LAMA
Life is all about balance. You don’t always need to be getting stuff done. Sometimes it’s perfectly okay, and absolutely necessary, to shut down, kick back, and do nothing. - LORI DESCHENE
148
I will not let anyone walk through my mind with their dirty feet. - MAHATMA GANDHI
Almost everything will work again if you unplug it for a few minutes… including you. - ANNE LAMOTT
You need to learn how to select your thoughts just the same way you select your clothes every day. This is a power you can cultivate. - ELIZABETH GIL BERT
I can’t think of any better representation of beauty than someone who is unafraid to be herself.
Look at a tree, a flower, a plant. Let your awareness rest upon it. How still they are, how deeply rooted in Being. Allow nature to teach you stillness. - ECKHART TOLLE
Heed these as advice, for when you are in times of trouble.
Great minds discuss ideas, average minds discuss events, small minds discuss people. - ELEANOR ROOSEVELT
Quiet people have the loudest minds. - STEPHEN KING
- EMMA STONE
Your mind is your instrument. Learn to be its master and not its slave.
The true sign of intelligence is not knowledge but imagination. - ALBERT EINSTEIN
- REMEZ SASSON
149
C O N TA C T U S
ASHLEE CRUZ Creative Director ashleecruz.com CALLOWAY KANDT Editorial Director callmecalloway.com TIANYI WANG Editorial Producer lnked.in/tianyiwang77 tianyiwang77@gmail.com TIAN SHI Concept Director be.net/tianshi0614 tianshi0614@gmail.com AMANDA LIFFERS Interview Assistant lnked.in/amandaliffers akliffers@gmail.com
W W W. T R O U V E M A G . C O M
Trouve literally means found (French). We have learned that there are stories and beautiful pictures in everyone’s life; they just need to be found and told--and that is what Trouve is all about. We hope you are enriched and inspired through Volume 05. W W W. T R O U V E M A G . C O M