USRider® Equestrian Traveler's Companion-Summer 2023

Safe

How to Change a Trailer Tire Hot Days, Cool Rides

Getaways: Rocky Mountain Diamond

What Members Are Saying About Recent Services

“I was blown away by the service I received, plus the follow up making sure everything went well. Thanks so much!”

— Heather D. Carbon, AB (May ‘23)

“Excellent job, knew how to get the job done. It was a hot day; got us on the road in no time.”

— Linda T. Elgin, SC (May ‘23)

“The member care specialist was the most caring & professional representative I have ever dealt with. I have had over 30 years of experience of roadside experiences and this was by far the most pleasant I’ve ever had. No stress, no pain. I was not made to feel as if it was my fault and I was put at ease. She kept us informed and called back several times to check on the situation. Wonderful service and attitude.”

— Sylvia Sue M. Mesa, AZ (May ‘23)

“Casey was fabulous! She was respectful, helpful and patient. I cannot say enough good things about her and your service providers who were on time and also very nice. It was a miserable night but USRider was a bright spot! I will be with USRider for as long as you’re around! You are awesome!”

— Elsa P., Marysville, OH (May ‘23)

“Mike, answered my phone call. His first question was, “Are you and our equine safe?” Fortunately, I was safely at my destination. Mike was kind and very calming! He checked out different services for me and quickly gave me some options. The tow service Mike directed me to was terrific. The gentleman that towed my truck said, “I am here to take care of everything. Don’t worry.” Wonderful!!!! I have been telling all my friends about your wonderful service!”

— Loralee W, Casa Grande, AZ (April ‘23)

“Excellent service. I sing your praises to everyone, everywhere I go. I would never be without you guys as my provider. Love, love your service.”

— Lisa S, Leesburg, VA (April ‘23)

Travel with confidence knowing USRider will get you back on the road safely and efficiently, should unexpected vehicle or trailer problems occur.

TripTips

TRAININGTIP

Fix Foot Fidgets

Does your traveling horse have fussy feet? Teach him to stand politely with these foot-handling tips.

• If your horse leans on you, drop his foot. Does your horse lean on you when you pick up a foot? If so, immediately drop his foot. This will take him by surprise. He’ll kind of fall down on his nose or front end. You’ll show him that if he leans on you, you’ll make him feel uncomfortable. As soon as you drop his foot, pick it back up, and start again.

• Don’t approach your horse like a predator. Avoid approaching your horse’s barrel or hindquarters and immediately trying to pick up his feet, or he may try to get away, because he views you as a predator. Spend a few minutes rubbing his back and scratching his withers. Then rub down a leg, retreat, then rub down a leg again. Repeat on all four legs. Prove to him that you’re not a predator and you’re not trying to hurt him. If he stands still, give him a treat, then start to go to work.

• Use the approach-and-retreat method. When you pick up your horse’s foot, always use the approach-and-retreat method. If you think he’s going to start jerking his foot away in five seconds, drop it in four. Then pick the foot straight back up, and start again.

Teach your traveling horse to stand still for you with Clinton Anderson’s safe, gentle method.

• Work off excess energy. If you do the above and your horse still won’t behave, perform some ground work. Back him 300 feet. Longe him a little. Get his feet moving in a constructive way. Then immediately bring him back, and have your farrier work on him again.

— Clinton Anderson, Downunder Horsemanship

TRAILERINGTIP

Keep Rig Data Handy

Do you know the type of oil your tow vehicle requires? When you come to an underpass with a low height clearance, do you know your trailer’s dimensions? If your trailer tire is low, do you know the pressure rating to safely fill it up with air? Stop fumbling through the manual while you’re on the road. Instead, gather all such data before you leave home. Write your tow vehicle’s oil type, the recommended pressure (pounds per square inch) for all tires, and your tow vehicle and trailer’s dimensions and weights onto a three-by-five-inch index card. Clip the card to the driver’s visor for easy checking on the road. Also keep a digital record. Take a photo of the information, and add it to your phone’s “favorites,” or enter the data into your phone’s note program. No more digging around in the glove compartment or trying to remember where such information was written down.

Collect and record all essential information for your rig, such as your trailer’s dimensions—before you leave home so it’ll be easy to find during travel.

How to Use a Stethoscope

Before you set off on your summer travels, know your horse’s baseline heart rate and normal gut sounds so you’ll be able to better determine whether he’s deviating from the norm. You can be a valuable resource to your veterinarian if you know what is normal for your horse and can identify a change, before illness happens.

Heart Rate

To define a normal heart rate for your horse, measure his pulse at various times of the day, before and after eating, and at any change in circumstances or activity level; this will give you a clear idea of how your horse generally responds to his environment.

Place the stethoscope in front of the girth area, just behind the elbow. Using the sweep second hand on your watch or a stopwatch, count the number of beats for 30 seconds and double it to get beats per minute.

Gut Sounds

It’s normal and healthy for sounds to come from the digestive tract. Intestines are made of muscles; processing forage continuously provides the necessary exercise to keep these muscles in good condition. If you don’t hear any noise, or if the sounds have become higher pitched, significantly slowed, or sound hollow, it likely indicates colic; contact a vet immediately.

Know your horse’s baseline heart rate and normal gut sounds so you’ll be able to better determine whether he’s deviating from the norm.

USRIDERMEMBERTIP

USRider Member Tip

Your USRider membership helps those who help horses. Each year, USRider donates a portion of its profits to qualified, worthy organizations that provide emergency equine response through its Leg-Up Annual Giving Program. USRider established the Leg-Up Fund to provide financial support for Large-Animal Rescue initiatives. Contact us to learn more about the USRider Leg-Up Fund or about starting or becoming involved in an emergency response unit in your area.

Practice listening along the upper barrel and the lower flank area on both sides. Generally speaking, sounds from the upper left come from the small colon and tend to be high pitched and of short duration. The lower left has sounds from the large colon. On the upper right, the sounds come from the large colon and cecum, whereas the lower right has the large colon. However, the point of origin for gut sounds isn’t completely predictable; the important thing is to identify a variation from your horse’s normal sounds.

— Juliet M. Getty, PhD, Getty Nutrition, LLC

Each year, USRider donates a portion of its profits to emergency equine response organizations through its LegUp Annual Giving Program.

PHOTO COURTESY OF TECHNICHAL LARGE ANIMAL EMERGENCY RESCUE

Know Safe Trailer Tying

Practice safe trailering with this expert advice on tying your horse both inside and outside your trailer.

In my Technical Large Animal Emergency Rescue™ course, I partly focus on preventing trailering accidents. Far too many of those injuries concern how horses are secured inside the trailer. Should you tie your horse in the trailer at all? There are arguments on both sides. Here, I’ll give you trailer-tying pros and cons, plus six tying-safety tips. Then I’ll tell you how to tie your horse safely outside the trailer.

Tying Pros & Cons

Trailer-tying pros: Tying your horse in the trailer is supposed to help prevent him from hurting himself, turning around, and/or biting/disturbing a neighboring horse. A loose horse can seriously injure another one that can’t defend himself, and can cause a wreck as the injured horse seeks to escape from the attack. Tying your horse also prevents him from lying down, crawling under a divider, and/or from putting his head down under a barrier, then panicking when he raises his head. Tying also controls the head of fractious or aggressive horses and stallions. Trailer-tying cons: Your horse can catch a foot (or a trailer obstacle) in the tie rope, then panic and injure himself. However, note that you can tie him tightly enough to prevent him from catching a foot, yet still give him enough slack to balance himself. You might also forget to untie your horse before opening the trailer door, which can lead to panic and injury. It’s extremely important to untie your horse before opening the trailer door. You also should teach him an unloading cue, so he knows when you expect him to start exiting the trailer.

Tying-Safety Tips

When you trailer your horse, even a short distance, follow these six tying-related safety tips.

• Provide feed carefully. If your horse is tied, provide hay in a bag that he can’t get his feet into, nor wrap

Top: Far too many of those injuries concern how horses are secured inside the trailer. Bottom: When tying your horse, always use a safety knot that you can quickly release should your horse pull back.

around his head. If he isn’t tied, place the hay on the floor so he’ll be able to maintain a more natural head/ neck position. By putting his head down, he can drain debris from his respiratory system, which helps to prevent respiratory issues.

• Avoid bungee cords. If you decide to tie your horse in the trailer, don’t use a bungee-type stretch cord. This type of cord, used in this manner, is dangerous to horses and humans.

• Use a breakaway tie rope. To avoid a trailer-tying tragedy, use a tie rope that will break under pressure, such as one made from leather or a hay string. Or, invest in a high-tech option, such as Davis Turtle Snap Cross Ties (available from Equestrian Collections) or

>>

PHOTO BY CLIXPHOTO.COM

PHOTO COURTESY OF REBECCA GIMENEZ-HUSTED, PHD

safety-release trailer-tie products from JEMAL Escape Mechanisms. Attach the breakaway tie rope directly to the trailer’s attachment or ring so it’ll function properly.

• Leave some slack. One trailer-tying myth is that the tie rope will help your horse balance, and will even keep him from falling down if he loses his balance. This is false. To see how your horse balances in the trailer, get a trailer cam, and watch how he balances during turns, stops, and acceleration. Your horse needs some slack in the rope so he can use his head and neck for balance. Standing up inside the trailer while it is in motion requires constant minor adjustments of his musculature, even on the interstate at a constant speed. Short ties in particular would make it almost impossible for him to balance with his own weight and normal methods, and to rise after a fall.

• Watch the rope ends. If you choose to tie your horse in the trailer, make sure that the tie-rope’s loose end can’t get outside of the trailer. Outside the trailer, the rope end could become wrapped around the axle or another object. This scenario will likely lead to a tragic death.

• Train your horse. Train your horse to safely load and unload with the help of a reputable trainer. Train your horse specifically to yield to pressure and exit the trailer only when given a specific cue. Practice loading him not only for routine trips, but also so that he’ll learn this essential evacuation skill. He’ll then load regardless of inclement weather and other adverse conditions.

Outside the Trailer

Horses are well-known for getting their legs and hooves into dangerous places—and the side of a trailer has many potential traps for those fragile structures. If a horse panics and pulls back, he could fall and become hung by the halter and tie against the trailer, or even underneath it.

Here’s how to safely secure your horse outside the trailer.

• Tie high. Tie your horse higher than his withers to limit the amount of leverage he can place on a tie.

• Use an overhead tie. Use a trailer-tying product that will give him more room, while keeping him further away from the trailer that straight tying would. I recommend the Overhead Spring-Tie (www.springtie.com).

• Or, use a safety tie. Alternatives include a release mechanism that releases your horse after a specific amount of pressure is applied. I recommend the JEMAL Safety Release Trailer Tie or Safety Release Cross Tie. Safety products that prevent your horse from getting loose include blocker tie rings (available from Toklat Originals), the Spring Tie, and the HiTie Trailer Tie System (available from EasyCare, Inc.), and the Tie-Safe Cross Tie (available from SmartPak Equine).

• Place the panic snap. A panic snap is a good idea, but be sure to attach it at the far end, away from your horse, not onto your horse’s halter. If he starts to panic, you shouldn’t get close enough to get hurt.

• Have a weak link. Have something in the tie system that will break if your horse really struggles, such as a leather latigo, a hook-and-loop fastener, a piece of hay string, or even a cheap metal clip.

• Prevent boredom. Give your horse plenty of hay to minimize injury-causing behavior problems, such as fiddling, pawing, playing with buckets, etc.

• Give them room. If you’re tying more than one horse, give them plenty of room, so they don’t kick each other, or get wrapped or tangled in each other’s ties.

• Consider alternatives. If you’re staying in one place for a while, consider high-lining your horse instead of tying him to the trailer. Or, use a temporary pen.

— Rebecca Gimenez-Husted, PhD, Technical Large Animal Emergency Rescue

PHOTO BY CLIXPHOTO.COM

PHOTO COURTESY OF REBECCA GIMENEZ-HUSTED, PHD

Use a breakaway tie rope or safety-release product.

Give your horse plenty of hay to minimize injury-causing behavior problems.

Safe Summer Travel

By Nancy Butler

Summertime is high travel season with your saddle companion, but be sure you’ve done your homework and laid out a safe itinerary. Seasoned horse haulers each have their own routine. Some tie their horses, some don’t. Some wrap the legs, some don’t. But there are things almost all of them do to help ensure that their animals arrive safe, not sick. Here’s a rundown, plus a beat-the-heat checklist.

Plan in Advance

Start preparing for your trip at least a week or two before you’re scheduled to leave. Colic is a very real threat on long trailer trips, so do everything you can to ward off this debilitating bellyache in advance. Deworm your horse ahead of time—at least a week before you leave. Get all vaccinations and boosters done at least two weeks before your trip to allow them to take effect.

Keep a close eye on your horse

Take these expert steps to enhance your horse’s safety and comfort this summer.

Summertime is high travel season with your saddle companion, but be sure you’ve done your homework and laid out a safe itinerary.

in the days leading up to departure to be sure no illness, such as a respiratory problem, is sneaking up on you. Be sure your horse is eating and drinking normally and having no problems, such as diarrhea or dark urine. A sick horse can be a nightmare on the road.

Make sure you have proof of vaccinations and a health certificate. Although a negative Coggins test result is pretty standard, every state has its own health requirements. Check the current requirements in each state you plan to travel through. Be sure there’s no unusual outbreak of a disease in an area along your route. You can find out what’s required in each state by visiting the Center for Epidemiology and Animal Health website.

In many western states, brand inspections (also called ownership inspections) are required; although your horse’s registration papers are useful for identification, they don’t replace a required brand inspection.

Check Your Rig

Don’t forget a “health check” for your rig. Get the oil changed and have the fluids, belts, and tire pres-

sure checked in your tow vehicle. Take your trailer to the dealer for a pre-flight check, or do it yourself if you’re competent in such things. Be sure the tires are good. Many trailer tires dry out long before the tread signals it’s time to replace them. Before your trip, check tire air pressure when the tires are cool.

After your rig is serviced, hook up your trailer, and check the lights and turn signals. If you have no one to look for you, back up to something reflective—such as the windows of your house—so you can look in the rearview mirror and see if the brake lights in back are working. Make sure the breakaway battery is charged and the safety chains and hooks are in good shape. Hinges and latches on drop-down windows, tail curtains, ramps, and doors all need a look-see.

Double check that you have at least minimal road safety equipment on board, such as flares, warning triangles, flashlights, and a jack or drive-on lift system strong enough to lift your fully loaded trailer.

Cover your trailer floors with rubber mat and scatter shavings on top of the mats. Aside from the jarring legs get from standing in a moving vehicle, a lot of horses won’t urinate on a bare floor; bedding will help. On a long ride, six to eight inches of shavings is recommended. Choose a clean, high-quality bedding product that’s relatively dust-free to help prevent respiratory problems.

Pack Up

Some horses won’t drink just any water; dehydration can become a real danger when you’re traveling, especially in the summer. Take along water from home or start adding a little molasses or drink flavoring to your horse’s water at home a week or so before you leave, and then

Have enough good quality hay inside and outside the trailer to keep your horse’s hay bag or manger filled the entire trip. Free-choice hay can go a long way toward keeping a horse calm and busy on a long ride.

continue to add flavoring on the road.

If you feed a brand of grain not available nationwide, take it along. It’s best if you don’t have to change feeds, but if you can’t cart enough for the entire trip, take enough so you can mix it into the new feed—just as you would at home when introducing any new feed. Have enough good quality hay on board to keep your horse’s hay bag or manger filled the entire trip. Free-choice hay can go a long way toward keeping a horse >>

Carry a bucket, and two to three gallons of drinking water, per horse.

Before you leave, check tire air pressure when the tires are cool.

PHOTO BY REBECCA GIMENEZ-HUSTED, PHD

PHOTO BY HEIDI MELOCCO

PHOTO BY HEIDI MELOCCO

Beat the Heat

• Stay tuned. A properly tuned engine runs cooler than a poorly tuned one.

• Maintain your tires. To avoid blowouts, check air pressure in all tire including spares—while the tires are cool, before you travel.

• Keep spare tires handy. Carry two spares for your trailer and a spare for your tow vehicle. Make sure all tires are in good condition and that they’re properly inflated. Then, if you do have a breakdown, you can get back on the road quickly.

• Avoid horse clothing. Avoid applying blankets, sheets, and even shipping boots/wraps (if possible) on hot days.

• Travel when cool. Avoid trailering during the warmest hours of the day.

• Watch for dehydration. Carry a bucket, and two to three gallons of drinking water, per horse. If your horse won’t drink in the trailer, offer him water when you stop for a break. Regularly check your horse’s capillary-refill time to evaluate hydration. You can do this through a trailer window. (For how to check capillary-refill time, click here.)

calm and busy on a long ride.

Some veterinarians and experienced haulers don’t recommend feeding grain to a horse before leaving on a long trip or along the way. Grain can sometimes cause colic, so sticking with good, clean hay can help minimize your chances of colic on the road.

Pack equine and human first-aid kits, and know how to use them. As a precaution, put your name and cell phone number on a tag and attach it to

• Vent your trailer. Promote airflow by opening all trailer vents, and making sure they’re unobstructed. However, don’t allow your horse to stick his head out the window—this could lead to serious eye injuries from bugs and debris. If you become stuck in traffic, provide as much ventilation in the trailer as possible without unloading your horse.

• Monitor traffic conditions. A traffic accident

Promote

vents, and making sure they are unobstructed. However, don’t allow your horse to stick his head out the window —this could lead to serious eye injuries from bugs and debris.

could cause you to spend many hours trapped on the interstate. To help avoid getting stuck in traffic, use your mobile device’s travel and weather apps. Invest in a wifi hot spot so you have a continuous connection on the road.

• Park in the shade. Park in shaded areas and/or areas with some air movement.

— Rebecca Gimenez-Husted, PhD

your horse’s halter. It’s a scary thought, but it’s always possible a horse could get loose, either by accident or from a barn at an overnight stop.

In the summer, the temperature in the trailer is a big issue. Buy an inexpensive thermometer to put in the trailer—out of horse reach. Check it as soon as you get out of the truck at every stop—before you pump gas or go for food.

Pack a hose with a nozzle that can adjust to a fine spray, and look for places you can hook up to a faucet. Spraying a fine mist through the trailer window can help cool the interior and your horse.

To Tie or Not to Tie

Whether or not to tie a horse in the trailer is controversial—everyone has their opinion. The type of trailer may have something to do with the decision but, in general, it’s probably best to tie. You don’t want a horse in a narrow stall to get his head turned around and not be able to get it back, or to be able to reach over a partition to aggravate a buddy. In a stock trailer, it doesn’t matter as much, and leaving a horse loose enables him to lower his head to cough and clear his lungs of dust from the road, the hay, and the shavings.

If you do tie your horse, be sure he has enough rope to be able to drop his head to clear his airways—but not so loose that he can catch a hoof in the tie rope. Also make sure he can move back and

airflow by opening all trailer

PHOTO BY HEIDI MELOCCO

“Grain can sometimes cause colic, so sticking with good, clean hay can help minimize your chances of colic on the road.”

If you tie your horse, be sure he has enough rope to be able to drop his head to clear his airways—but not so loose that he can catch a hoof in the tie rope.

touch his butt to the back wall or butt bar. Surprisingly, this simple thing can help keep a horse that panics from lunging forward and leaping over the chest bar or up into the manger.

Use a leather or breakaway halter, not a nylon one. And always have a sharp pocketknife on you so you can cut the tie and free a horse in an emergency situation.

To Unload or Not Unload

In general, it’s better not to unload your horse when you stop for short rest breaks. And you certainly don’t want to unload your horse on the side of the road. If he’s been traveling long enough that he needs to be taken out of the trailer, plan the route to include a horse-safe stopover away from major roadways and somewhere fences and gates can be closed to keep your horse contained. A horse farm, trailhead, or fairgrounds may afford this opportunity.

Most experienced haulers give their horses breaks by letting them stand quietly in the trailer when they stop for a meal. At that time, offer water, check your horses over, and then let them rest from the vibration of the road. Stopping gives them an opportunity to relax and urinate, if they will. Park in the shade. Make sure the vents and windows are open and that there is adequate airflow. Then readjust the ventilation before you get back on the road.

Don’t Push It

Try to limit your travel day to 500 to 600 miles. Consider an overnight layover if the trip is longer than a good day’s drive, or if the terrain is rough, causing your horse to

have to work hard to keep his balance, consider stopping overnight. Be sure the stall is safe and secure before committing to an overnight stay. If you are attending a show or clinic, try to arrive a day or two ahead of time, so your horse can rest and recuperate and adjust to the new surroundings. USR

Stream videos on your device or cast to your TV. Download videos and create a personal playlist to watch offline in the app—anywhere.

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Most experienced haulers give their horses breaks by letting them stand quietly in the trailer when they stop for a meal. Be sure to park in the shade.

PHOTO BY HEIDI MELOCCO

PHOTO BY CLIXPHOTO.COM

Change a Trailer Tire

Learn how to change a damaged trailer tire with this 12-step tutorial.

By Rebecca Gimenez-Husted, PhD

As an equestrian traveler, you should know how to change a trailer tire in an emergency. It’s empowering to know how to deal with this common horse-hauling challenge. Here, I’ll first give you a tire-changing kit. Then I’ll tell you what to do before you change a tire. Next, I’ll explain, step-by-step, how to properly change a trailer tire.

Tire-Changing Kit

• Two spare tires. Carry two good-quality spare tires in case more than one tire fails during your trip.

• 8-10 emergency flares. Flares help others see your rig when you’re stopped to change a tire. Use a minimum of three flares. Place one flare behind your rig, one at least 100

steps (300 feet) down the road behind your trailer, and one halfway back from that flare to the back of your trailer.

• 6-8 reflector triangles or cones. If you choose to use triangles or cones instead of flares, place at least three very close to your stopped rig. Then place one at least 100 steps (300 feet) down the road behind your trailer, and one halfway back from that triangle or cone to the back of your trailer.

• Flathead screwdriver. If your wheels have hubcaps, you’ll need a standard, large, flathead screwdriver or wheel-cover-removal tool to remove them.

• Lug wrench. Carry a lug wrench that fits your tires’ particular lug nuts. Or, find a fourway universal lug wrench.

Your trailer tires take your precious cargo down miles on the road—and sometimes off road. Know how to change a trailer tire in an emergency.

PHOTO BY HEIDI MELOCCO

• Drive-on jack. A drive-on jack can be made from plastic (such as Trailer Aid), wood, or steel. It should be at least five inches high, with a ramp. Use this simple tool if you’re replacing one tire at a time.

• Jack and jack stand. Use a jack and jack stand if you’re replacing more than one tire at a time. To choose the correct models, consult the trailer manufacturer’s recommendations. Using the wrong number or type to support your trailer is dangerous.

• 6 Chocks. A chock is a heavy piece of metal, rubber, or wood you tuck under a tire to keep it from rolling. Use chocks on both sides of the tires to prevent your trailer from rolling while jacked up off the ground. Carry at least six chocks.

• Lubricant. Use WD-40 or other

penetrant, graphite, or silicone lubricant to loosen the lug nuts, dissolve rust, and ensure the lug nuts don’t cross-thread (cross over each other, stripping the lug nuts and studs). Never use a hammer on lug studs—you can destroy the threads.

Tire-Change Prep

• Pay attention. Signs of tire trouble include loud banging sounds, bumping, jerking, scraping, or grinding.

• Pull over safely. As soon as you have a tire problem, pull to a safe area well off the road. Driving on a compromised tire can destroy it. However, if you need to for safety’s sake, you may continue to drive slowly to get to a safe place. Tires can be replaced, your life cannot. If you can, find shade and flat pavement.

• Set up reflective devices. Set up flares, triangles, or cones, as described in the tire-changing kit.

• Assess the damage. Check the affected tire, and decide whether you have the tools and skills to fix or replace it. To check wiring destruction and brake lines, look for oily fluid on the road next to the tire and wires hanging from the underside. Other signs are locked-up brakes and if the trailer sensor in your truck says the brakes are disconnected.

• Call for emergency roadside assistance. If you find complications, such as multiple blowouts, or destruction of wiring or brake lines—and/or if you don’t have the proper tools or knowledge to safely get back on the road, call USRider for emergency roadside assistance.

Use a drive-on jack when changing one tire. This one is made from two four-inch-by-six-inch treated pieces beveled to allow drive-on ease. The good tire will support your trailer while you change the damaged one.

To prevent your trailer from rolling, move to the side of your trailer opposite the damaged tire, and push chocks under the tire facing downhill. For added security, chock the other tire on that side of your trailer. Then chock the undamaged tire on the drive-on jack (shown).

After you remove the tire, inspect the lug studs for any thread damage.

While the tire is off, look for any damage or maintenance issues in the wheel well, electrical or brake system, or the spindle.

Use the lug wrench to loosen the lug nuts before driving your trailer onto the drive-on jack.

PHOTOS BY REBECCA GIMENEZ-HUSTED, PHD

How to Change a Tire

Step 1. Remove the hubcap. Remove the hubcap using a screwdriver or a hubcap-removal tool. You’ll then be able to see the hub and lug nuts on the wheel.

Step 2. Start to loosen the lug nuts. You’ll have better leverage if you loosen the lug nuts before driving your trailer onto the drive-on jack. Spray lubricant onto the base of each lug nut until the lubricant gets down to the lug stud. (Avoid getting lubricant on your fingers—it’ll make them slippery.) Loosen the lug nuts about four turns until you can loosen them with your fingers, then stop.

Step 3. Drive onto the jack. Drive your trailer’s good tire on the same side as the damaged tire onto the drive-on jack. (If you’re using a jack and jack stand, lift the trailer on the same side as the damaged tire.) When the good tire is solidly parked on top of the drive-on jack (or safely balanced on the jack and jack stand), apply the emergency brake, put your truck in Park, and pull the keys out of the ignition.

Step 4. Apply chocks. To prevent

your trailer from rolling, move to the side of your trailer opposite the damaged tire, and push chocks under the tire facing downhill (both front and back). For added security, chock the other tire on that side of your trailer. Then chock the undamaged tire on the drive-on jack (both front and back).

Step 5. Remove the lug nuts. Finish removing the lug nuts, and lubricate the lug studs again. Tip: Use the hubcap to contain the lug nuts. Step 6. Remove the damaged tire. Carefully slide the tire toward you,

off the lug studs, without putting any body part under the trailer or tire. Note that the tire will be very heavy— don’t strain your back.

Step 7. Inspect the wheel well. Inspect the wheel well for any damage to the electrical lines, brake lines, or even the spindle, especially if the tire was destroyed. Inspect the lug studs for thread damage.

Step 8. Lift the spare tire into place. Check to ensure that the tire is correctly facing the lug studs, then lift it into place, carefully setting it onto the studs.

Step 9. Replace the lug nuts. Replace the lug nuts, and tighten them with your fingers. Then tighten them lightly with the lug wrench in a star pattern or by opposites. This process tightens the tire evenly and avoids cross-threading the lug nuts on the studs. It also ensures the tire goes all the way onto the studs.

Step 10. Roll trailer off the jack. Remove the chocks. Using your tow vehicle, slowly roll your trailer backward off the drive-up jack. (Or, carefully remove the jack and jack stand.)

Step 11. Tighten the lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts with the wrench again, as tight as is comfortable for you.

Step 12. Retighten the lug nuts. After you travel 50 miles, or the next day, retighten the lug nuts with a torque wrench to set the amount of torque applied to the tightened nut. USR

Rebecca Gimenez-Husted, PhD (animal physiology), is president and a primary instructor for Technical Large Animal Emergency Rescue. A Major in the United States Army Reserve, she’s a decorated Iraq War veteran and a past Logistics Officer for the American Veterinary Medical Association’s Veterinary Medical Assistance Team. She’s an invited lecturer on animal-rescue topics around the world and a noted equine journalist.

After you replace the tire and roll off the jack, tighten the lug nuts with the wrench.

PHOTO BY REBECCA GIMENEZ-HUSTED, PHD

Hot Days, Cool Rides

By Julie Goodnight with Heidi Melocco

Melocco

Riding in the heat can be a challenge. I grew up in Florida and remember riding every day of the year, even in the heat and humidity. The horses could get hot easily, and riding gear wasn’t lightweight, especially the full English and show-jumping gear.

During Florida’s summer, there’s so much humidity, you feel like you can barely walk through it. In the Southwest and in altitude, you deal with the sun beating down on you, but it’s a little easier to keep riding without the humidity.

Keep this general rule in mind: If you’re feeling hot, your horse is feeling hot, too. Plus, even as an active rider, your horse is carrying you. You’re doing less work than he is. If you’re feeling hot and sweaty, your horse is feeling that and more.

Here’s my three-step guide to keeping your horse safe and comfortable in summer’s heat, plus rider tips.

1. Watch the Weather

As you plan your summer rides, it’s your responsibility to know the conditions and the weather.

On your mobile device, download the weather apps of your choice. First, calculate the day’s predicted heat index, the sum of the heat (in degrees Fahrenheit) plus the relative humidity.

If this number is less than 130, it should be okay to ride a fit horse, although you may still need to take precautions. You may be uncomfortable, but there’s not a big risk of heat exhaustion.

If the number is greater than

130, the conditions are highly risky for heat exhaustion. If the number is 150 or higher, stay home, and plan to ride another day—or get out and back very early!

In the Southwest, humidity isn’t a big factor as you plan your rides. But in other parts of the country, humidity can be a great challenge. If the humidity is higher than 50 percent, or the air temperature is greater than your horse’s body temperature, sweating and even shade become ineffective coolants.

If you’re in a dry area, there’s available shade and, one hopes, a little breeze, you and your horse should be able to cool down.

2. Keep Him Cool

In the Southwest and in altitude, it cools off at night. Morning is best for trail riding. Get ready to go before dawn, and ride from 4:00 a.m. to 9:00 a.m. In the deep South and portions of the Midwest, where there’s high humidity, riding at night when the humidity is at its lowest can be a great treat.

Just because it’s hot doesn’t mean you have to stay at a walk— but if it’s too hot—or your horse is already overheated—stay at a walk. Or, hop off, and lead your horse. Just carrying you is a lot of work for him.

If you ride in the morning and plan on asking him to work, push him early in the ride, before the day heats up. Walk when it’s hot.

If the heat index is less than 130, it should be okay to ride a fit horse, although you may still need to take precautions.

If you see or feel signs of heat exhaustion (see below), stop, dismount, let your horse rest, and allow him to drink as much water as he’ll drink. >>

“If there’s water on the trail, stop and rest in the water crossing, and cool your horse’s legs,” advises Julie Goodnight. “Water is the best way to cool down, and the large blood vessels in his legs will help him cool down fast.”

Nostril dilation is one sign of heat stress. Know the difference between how your horse’s nostrils look at rest, with moderate exertion, and when he’s at maximum capacity, so you’ll know when he’s at his maximum exertion level.

3. Know the Distress Signs

Know your horse, be aware that he has limits, and pay attention. Horses can take a lot, but they do need to be considered and monitored.

If your horse is fit and conditioned working in heat, he may be able to do more or go farther than an unconditioned horse. Still, it’s your responsibility to know the signs your horse gives you that tells you he’s too hot under duress.

Your horse is counting on you to know when to cool him down and to get home safely. His signs of heat stress will be somewhat individual. Observe him when he’s rested and relaxed so you can see and feel the difference when he’s exhausted.

There are two simple signs that are easy to pay attention to as you ride: nostril dilation and expansive breathing. Here’s what I mean.

Nostril dilation. Know the dif-

ference between how your horse’s nostrils look at rest, with moderate exertion, and when he’s at maximum capacity, so you’ll know when he’s at his maximum exertion level.

When your horse is at rest, and even on normal trail rides, his nostrils are much smaller than they are when he’s working at max capacity. When his nostrils are all the way open, you’ll see a large oval, and you’ll be able to easily see inside—his nostrils go about a third of the way up his skull.

To check your horse’s nostrils as you ride, ask him to turn his head to the side so you can see his nose. To do so, apply gentle pressure on one rein as you release with the other. Does his nostril look just like it does when he’s at rest in the barn, or is it enlarged and dilated?

Expansive breathing. When your horse is rested, note his natural, relaxed breathing pattern so you know when it feels different. On a ride, if he’s reached his maximum ability to take in air, you’ll feel his expansive breathing as his lungs and ribcage expand beneath you. If you can feel him gasping, immediately stop and rest, preferably in the shade.

In fact, stop and rest if you’re concerned about your horse’s heat and oxygen level at any time. When I led pack and trail rides in the high-altitude mountains, we’d stop and rest every 10 minutes. This is a good rule of thumb in tough, steep terrain.

If there’s water on the trail, stop and rest in the water crossing, cool your horse’s legs, and let him drink. Water is the best way to cool down, and the large blood vessels in his legs will help him cool down fast.

Also, tie sponge to your saddle. When you reach a water crossing, dip the sponge into the water, and sponge cool water all over your horse’s neck

Rider Tips

Just because it’s hot doesn’t give you an excuse to dress inappropriately. You need protection from brush, branches, and the sun. Wear long pants, riding boots, and a good riding shirt. Look for fabrics made for athletic ventures. And of course, always wear a riding helmet. Today’s helmets are so lightweight and vented that “it’s too hot” isn’t an excuse to go without one on the trail or off.

“You need protection from brush, branches, and the sun,” notes Julie Goodnight. “Wear long pants, riding boots, a good riding shirt, and, of course, a riding helmet.”

and back. (Try this at home, first, to make sure he accepts this type of stimulus.) USR

Julie Goodnight trains horses and coaches horse owners to be ready for any event, on the trail or in the performance arena. After producing the popular RFD-TV series, Horse Master with Julie Goodnight, for 11 years, Goodnight now shares the world of horses through 2Horse Productions, and through appearances at clinics and horse expos throughout the United States. She also hosts her monthly horse training podcast, Ride On with Julie Goodnight.

Heidi Melocco is a riding instructor, photographer, and writer based in Mead, Colorado.

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Rocky Mountain Diamond

Horse Ranch Park in Colorado’s cool Gunnison

National Forest is a highaltitude campground nestled between two tranquil wilderness areas.

Horse Ranch Park, located in Colorado’s Gunnison National Forest, is a diamond in the rough. This delightful United States Forest Service campground is nestled between the Raggeds and West Elk Wilderness areas, which offer solitude,

quietude, and high altitudes to hardy equestrian travelers.

Gunnison National Forest encompasses 1.7 million acres of public land in Colorado’s central Rocky Mountains. Outstanding mountain scenery is the norm. Deer and elk call the forest home.

Article and Photos by Kent & Charlene Krone >>

After the Three Lakes Trail junction, you’ll ride on a fabulous high-country loop that will take you past three mountain lakes. The largest is Lost Lake Slough.

Kent Krone rides Cowboy on the trail to Lake Irwin.

Spacious Camp

Horse Ranch Park is located approximately 12 miles west from the quaint town of Crested Butte and 37 miles northwest of Gunnison.

To get to Horse Ranch Park from Crested Butte, take Kebler Pass Rd. (Country Rd. 12) west for 12 miles. Turn right (north) into Horse Ranch Park. Look for the sign at the entrance.

As you drive into the spacious camp, you may set up your outfit wherever you like. Tie your horse to a secure tie-post, or use a highline. We brought our own camping gear and set up our portable corral near our living-quarters trailer.

Horse Ranch Park offers picnic tables, fire rings, and one outhouse. You won’t find corrals or potable water, but there’s a small stream and pond for horse water. What this campground lacks in amenities, it makes up for in inspiring scenery.

At 9,000 feet above sea level, the air’s oxygen content is less than what most people (and horses) are accustomed to. Take your time doing chores. If you feel breathless, it’s probably due to the elevation, as well as the pristine surroundings! Allow time for your horse to become acclimated to the altitude before you ride him on the trails.

Lake Irwin

Our first ride was a 13-mile roundtrip ride to Lake Irwin. We thought it was an easy ride, but our Missouri Fox Trotters, Cowboy and Nate, may have felt otherwise. The trail gains about 1,000 feet elevation, but the gain is gradual.

The trailhead is located at the north end of Horse Ranch Park. After a short distance, the trail divides. Turn right. This is the Dyke Trail (#838), which heads east, then slowly

works its way uphill through a Bev Doolittle maze of aspen trees.

The aspens’ shady canopy provided glimpses of the people who had lived and worked here during the early 1920s, mostly Basque sheepherders. The white aspen bark was their canvas; a knife, their brush. With these simple tools, they decorated the aspens with drawings, poems, names, and dates.

One poignant sentence caught our eye. Carefully carved into a very old aspen was this: “Nothing is as empty and vacant as loneliness.” We wondered about the story behind that mournful message.

The Dyke Trail has a lot of ups and downs, not much in the way of contouring. When we arrived in late summer, wildflowers were abundant. A light breeze would send them bobbing their pretty heads in rhythm to an unseen drummer.

After 1.5 miles, the Lake Irwin Trail (#837) comes in from the east. We began following this trail uphill. Here’s where the impressive igneous rock formations, known as The Dyke, come into view. The Dyke was formed when liquid magma was forced through thin, perpendicular ridge openings.

As we climbed higher, evergreen trees intermixed with aspen trees. Finally, we reached a high mountain meadow, where we declared it was time for lunch. We hobbled both horses and settled down to the serious business of demolishing peanut-butter sandwiches.

Charlene noticed that Nate seemed to have no problem walking with hobbles. Closer scrutiny showed why. He had no hobbles! We learned a valuable lesson: Our hobbles need to be buckled right side up so they stay fastened.

At the top of the ridge, we came >>

“Our first ride was a 13-mile round-trip ride to Lake Irwin,” report the Krones. “The trail gains about 1,000 feet elevation, but the gain is gradual.”

“When we arrived in late summer, wildflowers were abundant,” the Krones note. “A light breeze would send them bobbing their pretty heads in rhythm to an unseen drummer.”

to the road leading to the Old Irwin Lodge. Below the ridge, we could see 30 acres of crystalline-blue Lake Irwin, home to rainbow and brook trout. This was a beautiful ride, but we’d worked up a thirst, and it was time to head home.

Dark Canyon Trail

Our next ride was the Dark Canyon Trail (#830). This is an awesome ride in the 64,997-acre Raggeds Wilderness Area. To get there, ride out as before, north of camp, but turn left instead of going right to Lake Irwin.

The first few miles are easy. We rode along grassy parks, through stands of aspen, and intermittent patches of brush. For us, it was a joy riding through brushy areas in Colorado and not having to worry about the grizzly bears that inhabit the northern Rockies, where we frequently ride.

The trail worked its way around beaver ponds. One pond had a beaver mansion. It was huge! The ingenious architectural skills of these large water rodents are mindboggling! As we passed by, the splash of a beaver’s tail

issued an irritated warning. We drank in the ever-changing views of the Gunnison River Valley and majestic Ragged Mountain, which loomed ahead at 12,094 feet above sea level. We picked a spot on a bench overlooking the valley and mountain for lunch. Nothing beats dining in the Rockies!

From tracks and trodden grass, we determined a shepherd had his flock somewhere near this trail. We never saw his sheep, but beware. Your horse could round a corner and come faceto-face with several hundred fluffy critters!

If you have someone with you to shuttle trailers, this ride can be done in a point-to-point fashion. It’s 13 miles from Horse Ranch Park to the other end of the trail at the Anthracite trailhead.

This trail has a 2,200-foot drop, including a series of switchbacks called the Devil’s Stairway. You’ll drop 1,200 feet in three-quarters of a mile.

Alpine Beauty

A ride that gives a year’s worth of alpine beauty is comprised of the Cliff

Creek and Three Lakes Trails. This 15-mile ride has everything: aspens, open meadows, and mountaintop riding with emerald mountain lakes.

We rode south across the road and up the Cliff Creek Trail with a gain of nearly 1,000 feet during the first 2.5 miles. This part of the ride starts in old-growth aspen, then climbs hillsides and benches stuffed with dense carpets of wildflowers. When it rains, this part of the trail may be slippery.

The wildflowers are at their best in July and early August, filling meadows with a rainbow of colors. More than 70 species of wildflowers are found on these lush hillsides. Flowers attract insects, so spray your equine partner (and yourself) with repellent for a more comfortable ride.

Just 2.5 miles later, you’ll reach the junction with the Beckwith Pass Trail. It’s worthwhile to ride the half-mile spur through open meadows to the nearly 10,000-foot ridge that borders the West Elk Wilderness Area.

Here, we paused and checked out the tree-covered, mountain-studded expanse of the 176,172-acre wilderness area. >>

Nate and Cowboy at Dollar Lake.

Charlene Krone and Nate at the Beckwith Pass and West Elk Wilderness boundary. “It’s worthwhile to ride the half-mile spur through open meadows to the nearly 10,000-foot ridge that borders the West Elk Wilderness Area,” note the Krones.

Charlene Krone and Nate at Lost Lake Slough.

After soaking in this dose of alpine beauty, we returned to the trail junction and headed left. For the next three miles, we rode in and out of flora-filled parks and forested canopies.

We were delighted with views of the Ruby Range to the northeast. Some of these peaks pierce the sky at 12,600 feet above sea level. We also caught stunning glimpses of East Beckwith Mountain to the south which juts up 12,432 feet.

Finally, we came to the Three Lakes Trail junction. The next three miles made up a fabulous high-country loop that took us past three mountain lakes.

Northwest of this junction is Lost Lake Campground. We were told we could ride around the campground to Lost Lake Rd. However, we didn’t find the connecting trail and had to ride through part of the campground.

We followed Lost Lake Rd. to the left for a short distance and picked up the trail again. First, we came to Lost Lake Slough, the largest of the three lakes. We stopped there for a picnic and gazed at the views across the lake.

For another stunning view, go just a mile farther to Lost Lake. What a grand setting, with Dollar Lake to the east, Lost Lake Slough to the north, and East Beckwith Mountain to the south.

It’s very much worth your time to ride the one-tenth-mile spur trail to Dollar Lake, the second 10,000-foot high point on this fabulous day ride.

Afterward, continue riding north to the Three Lakes junction, and return the same way back to camp for a relaxing evening around the campfire.

Random Acts of Kindness

Off the trail, Horse Ranch Park distinguished itself to us as a place where random acts of kindness spread like hot grease on a sizzling grill.

It began on our first day at camp. Kent noticed a woman taking photos by the creek. He visited with her and helped her enhance her photography by showing her how to do reflection shots with a neutral density filter.

Later that day, the photography lady came over to our camp, lugging

morning, our new friend helped us jump-start our truck battery, which had died.

And so it went—another link in the chain of random acts of kindness. It was “pay it forward” time in the Colorado Rockies!

Mountain Outfitters

If you’re traveling with friends who would like to ride in this beautiful mountainous area, but don’t have horses of their own—or if you would like to give your horse a rest— you can rely on Fantasy Ranch Mountain Adventures in nearby Crested Butte.

This outfitter conducts a fivehour day ride from Horse Ranch Park into the Ragged Wilderness Area. The operators suggest September riding, when the aspen leaves are a bright yellow.

a watermelon. She explained that they were leaving and wondered whether we’d want her home-grown watermelon from Missouri. We were thrilled! That night, we had spaghetti, salad, and sugar-sweet watermelon for dessert.

Around 8 p.m. a truck with a big living-quarters trailer rumbled into camp. The driver, a tall, tired-looking man, knocked on our door. He’d driven a long way and was looking for corrals for his three horses.

We told him there were no corrals, but that we’d help him highline his horses. Then we invited him over to our camp for spaghetti and watermelon. He enjoyed dinner, and we enjoyed his company. The next

For more hardy souls, this outfitter provides pack trips into the West Elk Wilderness Area. Ride through the heart of the wilderness area, and stay at the base camp on Castle Creek. From camp, you’ll enjoy incredible views of The Castles, a 12,079-foot volcanic-rock formation. All gear is included, except for your sleeping bag and pad.

You may also contact Tenderfoot Outfitters out of Gunnison, which provide a tent camping experience in the West Elk Wilderness. Following a ride to base camp at 10,000 feet, you’ll be greeted with 12-by-20-foot wall tents that include spring beds with mattresses and pillows, propane lanterns, and woodburning stoves.

Enjoy the breathtaking West Elk Wilderness right from camp while eating hearty cowboy-style meals. Then sit around the campfire and watch a Colorado sunset to complete your perfect day in wilderness. USR

The Krones’ camp in Horse Ranch Park. The campground sits at 9,000 feet elevation. The 12,432-foot East Beckwith Mountain is in the background.

Alone No More

My young, greenbroke Morgan (Yankee) and I were on our way to my trainer’s farm for a clinic very early one Saturday morning. I lived just north of Biloxi, Mississippi, and my trainer lived in southern Alabama, on the other side of the Mobile Bay Bridge.

Everything went fine until I hit Mobile. Just before I reached the

Mobile Bay Bridge, another driver flashed his lights and pulled me over. Something had overheated, and there was a lot of smoke coming from underneath my truck!

I pulled off the interstate and started driving around Mobile, Alabama, randomly hoping that I’d come across someplace that would help me on a Saturday morning.

I finally found a garage, but had to hang out for a couple of hours >>

“By having a USRider membership, I no longer feel like I’m on my own and alone when I run into problems on the road,” says this Morgan Horse owner. Read on for her story.

By Sharon Gray

Sharon Gray drives long distances to keep her young Morgan Horse, Yankee, in training.

while waiting my turn. Fortunately, it was a cool morning, so I was able to open the trailer doors and let Yankee feel the breeze. But being stuck waiting was a very lonely feeling! And, frankly, no one cared that I was sitting in the parking lot with a horse in my trailer.

Finally, the mechanics determined that my transmission was overheating and sent me to another garage, where I had to wait again. Then the attendant said there was nothing they could do on a Saturday. He told me to just drive slowly and cautiously, and I would “probably” be okay.

I hopped on the interstate heading south to get back onto the interstate. I seriously thought about just heading home after the five-hour ordeal, but I decided to go on over to my trainer’s farm instead. I finally arrived—about six hours late.

Yankee wasn’t happy that he’d had to stand in the trailer for so long. And I was totally frazzled. In fact, I ended up with a broken arm that afternoon.

‘Fabulous Care’

Fast forward about 10 years. I’m now a member of USRider® Equestrian Motor Plan and live near Macon,

Georgia. Yankee and I were on the way home from my trainer’s place near Gainesville, Florida. We stopped at the Florida-Georgia border for gas and food. After I came out of the truck stop, my truck wouldn’t start!

I called USRider, and they offered to send a provider that would tow the truck, trailer, Yankee, my friend, and me all the way home—about 65 miles!

However, it turned out there was a repair shop nearby that was open on a Sunday afternoon. USRider talked to them, and the service provider towed us into one of their bays ahead of the big rigs they were working on. They even put a huge shop fan on Yankee to keep him cool.

The repair personnel also offered to let me unload Yankee so he could graze, but I was too concerned about offloading him right then. They were totally concerned about him and wanted to do whatever they could to make sure we were all comfortable. Then they immediately jumped on the repair work.

They took fabulous care of us and got us back on the road in less than two hours. USRider picked up the towing and kept checking back to

Sharon Gray and her Morgan, Yankee, at Dragon’s Lair Farm in Newberry Florida. “Being a woman who travels alone most of the time, it’s a great feeling not to be helpless,” says Gray of her USRider membership.

make sure we were taken care of.

About two years later, I was heading back to the same trainer near Gainesville. I was driving south on I-75, only two exits away from where we’d leave the highway, when I felt the trailer start to fishtail. Sure enough, I had a trailer-tire blowout!

I pulled off the interstate and called USRider. They found someone to change the tire, and we were back on the road within the hour!

‘A Great Feeling’

Each time I’ve had to call USRider, the one thing that always impresses me is how they answer the phone. They don’t say, “USRider, how may I help you?” They ask, “Are you and your horses safe?” Then they keep calling back to make sure I’m being well taken care of, that the service providers have shown up, etc.

By having a USRider membership, I no longer feel like I’m on my own and alone when I run into problems on the road. I know that help is only as far away as the phone! And being a woman who travels alone most of the time, it’s a great feeling not to be helpless.

Thank you, USRider! Keep up the great work. USR

“The repair personnel took fabulous care of us and got us back on the road in less than two hours,” says happy USRider Member Sharon Gray.

Summer Solutions

Comfortable Fly Masks

Soft-coated nylon micromesh makes the Crusader Fly Mask durable, soft, and comfortable. The patented three-hole cap and double-dart construction hold material well away from sensitive eyes, lashes, and temples without damaging the forelock. This provides a more natural and complete field of vision. The Crusader also blocks up to 70% of the sun’s damaging UV rays, protecting horses from eye problems and sunburn.

Effective Pest Repellent

Absorbine’s UltraShield Sport and UltraShield Red insecticide and repellent help protect your horse from mosquitoes, ticks, and stable flies. The sweat-resistant formula in UltraShield Sport withstands humid, rainy conditions in which mosquitoes thrive. Water-based formula won’t attract dust. Featuring a unique combination of five active ingredients, UltraShield Red equine fly spray shields your horse from the torment of bugs with all-weather repellency. This multi-active formula offers broad-spectrum control for killing nuisance and biting flies, mosquitoes, and ticks.

Travel Bucket Cover

This Lycra bucket top by Horse Spa Products features a handy Velcro™-lined flap that makes it easy to open for quick access to the contents inside your bucket.

An extra Velcro strip holds the flap open and out of the way. Made of 840-denier, waterproof nylon, they fit snugly and stay on during travel. Handy for keeping hay, dust, and debris out of feed and grooming tools.

Electrolyte Supplements

This summer, your traveling horse will likely experience heat, hauling stress, and strenuous riding and showing conditions, leading to excessive sweating and electrolyte loss.

Kauffman’s Animal Health’s electrolyte supplement line is formulated to meet the challenging demands of your equine athlete. Supplements are available in water-soluble mixes and pastes.

TRAIN WITH THE PROS

Training with the top equine professionals has never been easier. Equine Network’s subscription video platforms are home to top-quality videos on the topics that interest you. From horse care to colt starting, dressage to roping—our video platforms make it easy to learn from the best in the business anytime, anywhere.

Download and start streaming from your smart devices for FREE today!

Click on the brand to start your FREE trial.

How Does USRider® Compare?

USRider® Equestrian Motor Plan is the premier equestrian roadside-assistance program in the industry. Your membership includes roadside-assistance coverage in any vehicle you’re traveling in (even if you’re not driving), as well as coverage for your horse trailer, whether or not your horse is on board.

In addition, your USRider membership provides an extensive package of discounts on equine-related goods and services, regular equine-travel and safety information, and insurance products.

USRider offers two levels of membership: Classic and Premier. (For plan details, go to usrider.org.) Here’s a handy chart showing how USRider compares with other roadside-assistance plans.

Your USRider roadside-assistance benefits are in full force even when you’re not traveling with your horse and no matter what vehicle you’re traveling in.

How does USRIDER compare?

Your roadside assistance benefits are in full force even when you are not traveling with your horses.

NO MATTER WHAT VEHICLE YOU ARE TRAVELING IN –EVEN IF YOU ARE NOT DRIVING – WE’VE GOT YOU COVERED.

PHOTO BY HEIDI MELOCCO

Fix It Up or Give It Up?

Use this checklist to decide whether your aging trailer is worth fixing up or if it’s time to sell.

By Tom Scheve and Neva Kittrell Scheve

If you have an aging trailer, it might be time to determine whether it’s time to fix it up or give it up. Do your trailer’s design, size, and features still work for you?

If not, let it go, and invest in a new trailer. However, if your trailer still works well for you, use this checklist to decide whether it’s worth it to fix it up—or whether it’s time to sell.

Are Repairs Worth It?

First, determine whether the cost of repairs will exceed your trailer’s value.

■ Determine value. Determine your trailer’s value in “as is” condition and in “like new” condition. To do so, enter your trailer brand, model, and year into your favorite search engine. Jot down your trailer model’s value the way it is and the way it could be.

■ Get an estimate. Go to the nearest body shop, and get a parts-and-labor estimate of everything you want done and everything that needs to be done.

■ Do the math. If the repair estimate is in line with your trailer’s value (what you can sell it for), then it would be worth your while to repair it. For example, if your trailer is worth $2,500 as is, but it’s selling for $5,000 in top condition, then you could spend up to $2,500 and still protect your investment.

Pre-Repair Check

Following is a list of things to check before you head to the body shop. Once there, have the person doing the estimate check the bearings, brakes, axles, floor boards, floor supports, frame, coupler, and lights.

■ Tires. Tread wear and/or age will determine whether the tires should be replaced. Check the build date. Discard any tires older than 6 years old, even if they have good tread. It’s likely that the rubber has chemically weakened and could come apart in transit. Check rims for weakness and rust.

■ Axles. If you’ve kept your tires properly inflated every time you’ve used your trailer, then you’ll be able

to use them to determine axle integrity. Run your hand over the tires to see if there’s uneven wear on the tread. If one side of the tire is wearing more than the other, your trailer isn’t tracking straight, and your axles might’ve been damaged somewhere along the line.

■ Electrical system. Check the running lights, turn signals, and brake lights to make sure all are function properly. If they aren’t, the wiring could be deteriorating, which isn’t an easy fix.

■ Coupler and jack. Examine the coupler to make sure it’s in good working order. Some tag-along trailers use a mechanism that can be replaced.

■ Windows. Make sure all windows slide easily, and that the screens and bar guards are in good shape.

■ Doors. Make sure all doors open and shut easily, but also make sure they fit securely and won’t pop open on the road.

If your aging trailer still meets your needs, use this checklist to decide whether it’s worth it to fix it up—or whether it’s time to sell.

PHOTO BY CATE LAMM

■ Ramp. If there’s wood in the ramp, walk on it to see if it “gives.” If it does, there’s a good chance it needs to be replaced.

■ Wood floor. Check for rot, softness, and cracks in the stall area. Check the bracing under the floor for rust.

■ Dressing-room floor. If there’s a dressing room with a plywood floor and carpet, check for any “give” and soft spots.

■ Aluminum floor. Check for corrosion and damage from the alkaline in the urine and manure. Look for holes with a rough texture; these are often dark.

■ Frame. Check for rust if the frame made from steel; check for cracks if the frame made from aluminum. Most trailers built with steel after the 1980s will feature galvanized steel.

■ Side walls. Check for rust if the side walls made from steel; check for corrosion if the side walls are made from aluminum. Rust and corrosion will be found closer to the floor.

■ Dividers and butt/breast bars. Check for rust underneath the padding if these elements are made from steel; check for cracks and tearing if they’re made from aluminum.

■ Padding. Check for dryness, tearing, and mildew. Check the foam underneath the vinyl padding. If rain water has leaked into the vinyl and retained, the water will rot the wood and damage the foam.

Tom Scheve and Neva Kittrell Scheve are the authors of the nationally recognized textbook, The Complete Guide to Buying, Maintaining, and Servicing a Horse Trailer. Neva has also written two other horse-trailer books, including Equine Emergencies On The Road with Jim Hamilton, DVM. The Scheves present clinics at equine expos and promote trailer safety through articles in national magazines. They’ve designed and developed the EquiSpirit, EquiBreeze, and ThoroSport lines of trailers.