Amy Thomson Dissertation Proposal; Fashion Performance An Investigation exploring fashion within modern performance; highlighting the way that fashion is portrayed to an audience to provoke a reaction and tell a story through instillations. Continuing from my level 5 essay looking at technology within fashion an element of this was looking at fashion shows creating a performance and how technology has enhanced this. This topic can be explored in different aspects of change within models, clothing, locations,audience, technology, culture and emerging designers. This essay will address fashion performance examining the way that reactions are provoked and how technology has informed this within the on going and historical change of fashion shows. Does this change the way people look at fashion? Does it attract further attention to every day world issues? Does it change the way people decide to dress? Has the change in fashion shows inspired a change within fashion? This essay will discuss designers Hussain Chalayan and Alexander McQueen in two completely different ways; Hussain Chalayan approaches fashion performance through technology and practicality where as Alexander McQueen intends to provoke reactions creating performances based on political, social and economic issues gaining awareness and controversial views. Emerging designers Mary Benson (which an internship has been completed for) and Claire barrow can also be considered through their use of story telling and slogan/ quotations within print design in their clothing illustrating a change in the way fashion is viewed and how fashion can be expressed. Has the change within fashion instillations effected the way emerging designers approach fashion? Do we need fashion shows? Do fashion shows give more impact than the trends and garments involved? The aim is to address this ideal through deeper meaning looking into the context behind modern theoretical performances and discussing the change; continuing this further into my collection through meaningful story telling within the garments to create reaction.
Amy Thomson Dissertation Proposal; Fashion Performance
Deffinition A fashion show is an event put on by a designer to showcase his or her upcoming line up of clothing during fashion week. Fashion week usually debut every season particular in spring/summer and fall/winter. In a typical fashion show the clothing is illuminated on the runway buy lighting with an outfit styled to the accordance of the statement that the designer wants to make about their collection. It is then for the audience to interpret this into their own understanding and recognition of craftsmanship within the garment. More often in contemporary designer’s instillations are created where models are static, standing, sitting or constructed into a certain environment. A range of designers tend to produce their shows as theoretical productions which elaborate sets and added elements to provoke reaction and to get across a further message.
Research Behind “Fashion shows weren’t always this way. Before the supermodels, the over-the-top productions and the weird, wonderful quirks that make up modern runway experiences, there was a very different type of presentation” (Rathe, 2013). Early fashion shows were for sales and buyers; public didn’t get to see the shows and you had to be very trusted to get not a couture house fashion show. Although many designers claim to have started the fashion show trend it was a gradual evolution towards more formal shows of more seasonal lines. In the 1930s Elsa Schiaparelli was the first to create a themed collection including Circus, Commedia Dell’Arte and Astrology. These themed shows changed the traditional fashion show and incorporated music, special lighting and dance into the presentation. Circus included circus performers who jumped, skipped and flipped during her performance in the couture house. In the late 1950’s the rose of the ready to wear market had a significant impact on the organization, number and scale of fashion shows. The growth of the ready to wear market was also related to the decline in interest in haute couture by the younger generation; new designers responded to this and added youthful energy to their fashion shows starting the change of theoretical production. This changed the function of the haute couture fashion show shifting its target audience from the private client to mainly press using fashion shows as a marketing tool and promotion of the label. In the 1970s and 1980s the public visibility and magnitude of fashion shows changed dramatically. In 1973 Kenzo presented a large scale ready to wear show on a stage rather than a run way indicating a break with haute couture tradition and the increasing emphasis on performance. In the 1980s Thierry Mulger hired a rock impresario to stage his fashion show; an audience of 6 thousand people attended and half of the tickets were purchased by the public. This was a big shift in change within the fashion world and marks a trend towards fashion shows becoming entertainment. In this time fashion shows also began to be broadcasted on TV broadening the viewing public and supermodels began to be recognized as a profession. Although the majority of designers still hold traditional fashion shows in Paris, London and New York many now have themes, mood lighting, music and special effects. In the 1990s Alexander McQueen became renowned for producing extravagant shows in unusual spaces provoking reactions of a large audience targeting issues of every day life.
Amy Thomson Dissertation Proposal; Fashion Performance
What historical events have had a significant impact on fashion shows? World War impacted on the way that the traditional women dressed and there was a shift in change in how women were recognized and valued. As women’s roles changed fashion changed along side it with emerging attitudes and trends within women’s societies. The clothing women wore became much more relaxed as women began to dress for new job roles; the natural shape of women re appeared within women. Chanel had a huge impact on the way that women were recognized and dressed in this era emphasis that women could still remain attractive yet elegant. Fashion shows were often put on to show off new trends happening; building up socialization and moral within the communities at the time. Money raised would help toward the war for veterans and families of soldiers fighting in the war. The second world war also impacted on fashion shows as more emerging trends began through the use of Hollywood films making big fashion icons. Hollywood created a glamor side of fashion that most people weren’t used to. The ongoing change within fashion and fashion awareness allowed fashion trends to become more regular and become part of seasonal fashion shows. This change is seen within Hussein Chalayan (2007) when showcases change through technology of garments that change shape through a performance that going through different periods; from large Victorian gowns the garments robotically twitch, move and reconfigure into different eras of looks. What cultural attitudes inform fashion shows? Leading on from the world wars the change of the way that women were viewed very much informed the emerging change in the way that women dressed and the ongoing changes of status and trends seen through idols throughout the century. This is where fashion began to merge cultural attitudes and traditions of dress and not only did fashion relax cultural attitudes towards the way women dress but it created greater awareness of why religions wore specific things and allowed new trends that brought different cultures together. This is very much seen through current fashion shows as cultural can be seen through many contemporary collections provoking reactions, awareness and a greater understanding of traditional wear. Fashion shows have re created looks of these emerging cultural attitudes creating new contemporary out takes of traditional cultural wear that a variety of people can wear and appreciate. The biggest cultural attitude change is seen within the way that women are respected. Models were often underpaid, unknown and seen as not a proper job. However, as fashion shows changed and emerged the recognitions of the power of women changed along side seeing models as a profession and high paid skill. Along side idols emerging the catwalk has allowed boundaries to be pushed of cultural attitudestowards women highlighting empowerment and equality. Alexander McQueen’s contemporary out take on this in his Highland Rape collection portrays women as if they had just been raped or as prostitutes. This sort of instillation seen on a catwalk recognizes stereo typical views within cultural attitudes of women and the ongoing fighting change of women being seen as objects wearing minimal clothing and being revealed in personal ways. Cultural attitudes in the way that models are seen are also recognized within Alexander McQueen’s collection Asylum where women press against the sides of glass mirrors almost like they are in a buying room for prostitutes. At the end a larger woman is revealed modeling a garment recognizing that not all women have to be the stereo typical size 0 recognizing beauty within everyone. Who are key figures within the theory of fashion shows? Caroline Evens addresses this change within fashion instillations; professor of fashion history and theory at Central Saint Martians. Her book The Mechanical Smile this book explores the history of fashion shows along side how they informed fashion film and how it employed visual language of modernism to translate business and management methods into virtual seduction. The fashion show is a point where the ‘disparate histories of commerce, modernism, gender, and the
body converge’.
Hussein Chalayan Airbourne (2007), Alexander McQueen Highland Rape (1995), Alexander McQueen Assylum (2001), Hussein Chalayan After Words (2000), Ralph Lauren (2015)
Are fashion shows related to any technological enhancements on society? All fashion shows have changed in terms of music, lighting and technological backdrops informing the change in technology as modernization continues. Technology has also informed fashion instillations as there are a lot more boundaries to be pushed due to technological innovations within fashion informing performance. Hussein Chalayan focus on the idea of performance within his fashion shows and considers ‘futures in the context of the past and our relationship with technology’ (Braddock Clarke, Harris, 2012. p114). Emphasis is shown within his collections of clothing becoming functional and practical for the modern day that ‘providing the tools to facilitate the realisation of his unique design thinking’ (Braddock Clarke, Harris, 2012. p114). After Words (2000) shows the idea of technology making clothing functional and practical despite highlighting his importance of creating a performance in which provokes a reaction. This draws attention to the way you define yourself by what you wear/ buy basing the multipurpose garments on the war and how people packed up leaving homes quickly. Hussein Chalayan also highlights technological innovation through his S/S 2016 collection which the models are under a shower onstage and their garment dissolve. Technological enhancements in material has allowed innovations like this to be created and showcased as part of a performance on stage. Not only is the garments within fashion shows informed by technology but the traditional fashion show is also changing. Ralph Lauren women’s polo 2015 created a revolutionary runway event that was revealed to hundreds of spectators: a water- screen projection that towered above Manhattans Central Park combining fashion and technology.
Amy Thomson Dissertation Proposal; Fashion Performance
Research For Consideration into both primary and secondary research development to this dissertation. Research needs to be undertaken and support asked for when approaching interviews and surveys so ensure the right type of answers desired are collected. Discuss with tutors possible researches available to help with this. Detailed reading lists need to be collected along side keeping updated with the fashion world looking out for useful exhibitions/ events as primary research.
Research Through As discussed there are many aspects of methodologies that can be used looking at social, political, technological and historical. The main methodology I will use will depend on the chosen theme I decide for the final collection looking at a key theme or issue that is to be addressed; this needs further research and consideration in order to tell a story through both the garments and performance. However, a key methodology will be technological approach. This methodology can be explored through different social, political and economical issues within technological innovations within fashion. Relationships in this methodology can correspond with relationships in the chosen theme in terms of political, social and economic issues within the topic addressed. The processes of creative practice are important to the practicality and innovative approach of creating a performance. This creative practice will be important to the technological innovations within to ensure technical enhancements are used within the practice to create reaction through performance or garments this will be integral to the theme and design process and theory relating to fashion performance. The key factors to a chosen theme will be social and political aspects that provoke reaction to and address issues to tell a story within the performance. This could highlight feminism, controversial issues at the time, a historical story technological innovation to inform creative practice. Barriers within my creative practice could form within my chosen theme within methodologies of controversial and opposite social and economical issues and views against my theme. Barriers within this could be the correct approach towards these issues ensuring they are addressed correctly and don’t cause offense or controversial opposition. The changing materials of research will effect the barriers and limitations to this project gaining an insight from all areas and arguments along side approaching sensitive primary research questions engaging with fashion performance, social issues and political matters within the theme. Materials used within the collection will correspond with technological innovations addressing new ways of using technology within design overlapping dissertation with practical along side considering how it can be used in a performance factor.
• Find out information on the history of fashion shows; Caroline Evens, The Mechanical Smile Book. Research why and how the change began, who was involved? Possible impacts that informed the change? Were fashion shows always going to end up this way? Discuss impacts positively and negatively, has this effected the face of fashion? Get sources from there to research further; Key researchers, designers, theories. Create and ask advice on a recommended reading list to give further information to branch out directly and indirectly to different subjects. • Look at fashion shows as a brand; not just about the garments anymore but the performance, overall look, branding, styling, accessories, collaboration. Discuss this commercial change; has this effected the way fashion shows are performed? Do more products to advertise mean bigger productions to create statement on brand? Economical issues involving this. Lead to ideas for collection? Use of accessories/ branding/ overall look, ensure theme brings it all together. • Gather further information on impacting fashion shows showing the change; watch videos online, read reviews of the fashion shows. Create a list of key fashion shows that can be researched and hopefully branch out to different designers and key changes of fashion performance over time. • Consider impacts within essay; Social, Political, economic. Discus in detail and consider to each point/ collection considered. For example, cultural attitudes; the change in way women are seen is this shown though modern fashion shows? Alexander McQueen Highland Rape good reference. • Possibly interview previous visiting professional Deborah Milner discussing Alexander McQueen’s performances (previously worked for). Consider questions carefully; ask a lot of questions elating to dissertation title and issues addressed within, consider questions in full detail during research. Possibly not only ask questions about the collections but about Alexander McQueen his thought process? His way of working? Very political and controversial views, do you see that within his own personality? Think of deeper psychological inputs to essay. How did Deborah feel during constructing these collections? Does she have similar views? How did the buying clients respond to this through private orders? Interesting input on practical side of project? How the garments create performance by themselves? Thought process, techniques, technical enhancements? Possible generate ideas for own collection. •Interview Mary Benson regarding her AW16 collection fashion show which attended during internship; ask key questions about performance and key questions relating strongly to my dissertation title/question. Who inspired her for her performances? Consider the use of technological enhancements; would she like to use these as an emerging designer if she can access them? Consider her use of story telling within her garments; just as important as the story of the show? What are her key ways to provoking reaction/ making a statement/ being remembered? What does she think of the current change? Has she been involved in any other fashion instillations?
Amy Thomson Dissertation Proposal; Fashion Performance
• Gather notes from previously visited exhibition Savaged Beauty at the V &A; refresh memory and analyze further in different view points. Gather reviews from this exhibition as different view points. Could use this information to discuss some key collections? Could I get in touch with people that attended or the V & A and interview? Could I create a survey online to reach out to people that attended? What Would I ask? Look at a specific collection and discus the thought provoked response; is this response different off a run way? Does it have the same reaction in an exhibition? Do people create the same response/ opinion? What do people think about the way he approaches controversial matters? Consider sensitive controversial views before asking questions. Consider this as a fashion instillation? How has this changed fro tradition? • Develop ideals collected in level 5 essay looking at technology upon performance discuss ways that technology is used. This can be split into three; technology directly informing the show (back drops, film, projection, lights, music), technology informing collection (use of dissolvable fabric, practicality designs, robotically movement, lights incorporated into designs) and technology informing performance (making dissolvable fabric dissolve on stage, making a dress transform robotically into something else). Discus these impacts upon all three sections; has this allowed a shift in change for fashion instillations? A lot of online and book research continuation from books read last year, gather a suggested book list to develop this further from tutors? Try and broaden knowledge on technological enhancements, what is currently being technologically used and created within the fashion world to inform design? Big part of practical element- way of informing this technological shift into a collection; possibly create garments that transform, experiment with new technological enhancements, unusual modern materials, traditional performance wear made modern? Try and gather some primary research within this topic to inform practical developments too. Approach a theorist or a designer currently investigating this or a new key innovation? • Biggest practical influence; branching out and considering emerging designers and how they can inspire both my dissertation and practical element. Claire Barrows practice; as an emerging designer consider her fashion films, fashion styling and fashion shows. Research behind her ideal and get an understanding of her performance wear garments she creates and how she creates story telling through illustration. Big emphasis within her clothing of creating stories through illustration and larger performance statement dresses. Gather a deeper understanding of her thought process and themes behind her stories. Could this be thought provoking? Political issues sensitive to address? Experiences? Dreams? Ideals? Begin to consider my own theme and how I can enhance story telling through design, illustration and performance of an overall look. How can I begin to make performance wear innovative and contemporary? Can I use technology to inform design? Consider how an emerging designer uses performance within her fashion shows; similar to Mary Benson question her inspirations, thought process and meanings behind. Interesting to look at how I can use performance to inform my collection in our fashion show on a smaller scale, a lot more achievable for an emerging designer. Research her fashion shows and try to approach for a possible internship or chance to be involved in next fashion show. Valuable experience towards understanding behind how fashion shows and collections come together from an emerging designer. • Primary research from arranged internship in September 2016; London fashion week for Peter Pilotto. Contrasting huge theoretical performance, different angles on fashion shows.
Research InFront The audience will depend on further consideration into what I am going to make in my final collection of; considering what type of message I want to convey and what type of reaction to provoke following a certain theme/ story. This will very much appeal to a specific type of culture/ attitude relating to what I decide to take further in my collection pieces considering limitations within the chosen topic considering different view points and opinions within. Considering chosen designers Alexander McQueen and Hussein Chalayan along side emerging designers Mary Benson and Claire Barrow this essay will appeal to both the fashion community and fashion followers highlighting key influential names within the fashion world. Along side these designers are popular for the reactions they convey, issues they address and the way they perform and address to a wider audience. This allows me to broaden my audience wider to address more people not only in the themes but the knowledge behind the designers within. Looking at technological innovations this will also broaden the audience due to the popular nature of this emerging ideal and how not only the fashion industry is creating technological products to inform other practices. This could appeal to a range of different specialisms looking at both fashion and technology within a broader audience. Discussing the change within the history of fashion shows can appeal to both Avant guard followers and traditional fashion lovers considering different view points, different appeals and limitations within fashion. The main target audience at this point for my dissertation will Avant guard designers which will appeal to a grange of different specialisms of people who like to create reactions through performance, looking at non traditional fashion design and people who appreciates the history of fashion and recognizes the change and influence towards contemporary fashion design. Limitations will become within opinions however will branch out to a range of audiences considering social, political and technological aspects of both the future and history of fashion. The tone of voice will depend on the chosen topic/ theme for my collection considering limitations, culture, sensitivity and the nature of the topic leading to the way I approach the audience
with view points, argument and questions.
Amy Thomson Dissertation Proposal; Fashion Performance
Key collections so far; • Hussein Chalayan Airbourne (2007) – Technology shown through the design as a video is played through the dress in the instillation. • Hussein Chalayan Afterwords (2000) – Practicality shown through technology and performance through people having to pack up their homes quickly in war period; more functional designs like a table becoming a dress. • Hussein Chalayan Pasatiempo (2016) – Technology enhancing performance through dissolvable fabric being used within garments of this collection dissolving and changing onstage. •Hussein Chalayan 111 (2007) – Technology informing performance through robotic movements and changes within garments highlighting empowerment and equality movement for women. • Alexander McQueen Highland Rape (1995) – Equality of women; provoking reaction onstage from ongoing social issues in every day life. • Alexander McQueen Asylum (2001)– Performance through reaction as larger model is used; recognition not everyone a size 0. • Alexander McQueen Art Class (1999) – Technology informing performance through design made onstage through spray painting a dress. • Mary Benson AW16 – Performance through themed fashion show (primary research as attended) – Fashion show set up as a gig and spectators part of the crowd. • Mary Benson SS16 – Performance and reaction through clothing; emphasis on love story and heartache through prints and words within the clothing telling a story through large statement garments. • Claire Barrow AW16 – Performance wear story telling themes displayed through performance through her fashion show.
Hussein Chalayan Airbourne (2007), Hussein Chalayan After Words (2000), Hussein Chalayan Pasatiempo (2016), Hussein Chalayan 111 (2007) Alexander McQueen Highland Rape (1995), Alexander McQueen Assylum (2001), Alexander McQueen Art Class (1999), Mary Benson AW16, Mary Benson SS16, Claire Barrow AW16
Amy Thomson Dissertation Proposal; Fashion Performance
Bibliography Benson, M. (2016) interview via email with the author Burley, I., Gough, J. and Dazed (2013) How the theatre of fashion has evolved. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/16875/1/how-the-theatre-of-fashion-has-evolved (Accessed: 2 June 2016). Clarke, S.B.E. and Harris, J. (2012a) Digital visions for fashion + textiles: Made in code. London: Thames & Hudson. Clarke, S.B.E. and Harris, J. (2012b) Digital visions for fashion and textiles: Made in code. London: Thames & Hudson. Finamore, M.T. (2006) Fashion shows. Available at: http://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/ fashion-clothing-industry/fashion-shows (Accessed: 2 June 2016). Johnston, L. (2015) Digital handmade: Craftsmanship and the new industrial revolution. United Kingdom: Thames & Hudson. McQueen, A (2015) exhibition at the Victoria and Albert Museum London Peppers, M. (2013) The evolution of the fashion show from 1950s to today. Available at: http:// www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-2414004/How-fashion-shows-changed-Fifties-today.html (Accessed: 2 June 2016). Rathe, A. (2013) The secret history of fashion shows. Available at: http://dujour.com/style/ mechanical-smile-fashion-shows-secret-history/ (Accessed: 2 June 2016). Stansfield, T., Drezen, C.L. and Dazed (2015) Hussein Chalayan talks making dresses dissolve on the runway. Available at: http://www.dazeddigital.com/fashion/article/26842/1/hussein-chalayantalks-making-dresses-dissolve-on-the-runway (Accessed: 2 June 2016). Vogue investigates: The future of the fashion show (2016) Available at: http://www.vogue.co.uk/ news/2016/02/05/the-future-of-the-fashion-show-season-change-industry-reaction (Accessed: 2 June 2016). Women’s fashion during WWI and WW2 (fall 2012) - Historpedia (1989) Available at: https:// sites.google.com/a/umn.edu/historpedia/home/arts-new-ideas/women-s-fashion-during-wwi-and-ww2fall-2012 (Accessed: 2 June 2016). {year} (2014) Ralph Lauren Polo 4D. Available at: http://www.moving-picture.com/work/ralph-lauren-polo-4d (Accessed: 2 June 2016).