Trousers: Technical Specs by Ana Levis

TECHNICAL SPECS By Ana M. Levis

TROUSERS | TECHNICAL SPECS

trousers trousers

TROUSERS | TECHNICAL SPECS

TROU S E RS

Description: My classic 2-pleated trousers has the 1940s style, different silhouette from preceding ones, with a wide comfortable shape and longer. Narrow waistband sits on the morphological waist, Buttoned, pointed tab extension plus additional Hook and eye closing Zipped fly front. Inner placket with banded edge continuing from waistband. 2 front folded pleats for ease 2 Front angled welt pockets and one small coin pocket 2 double welt (besom) back hip pockets with buttons Cuffed legs Center back seam on waistband, easier for alterations 6 belt loops, none at center back.

TROUSERS | TECHNICAL SPECS

Product Description Product Description Designer: Confezioni Richard Firenze Material: 100% Pure New Wool (Lana Virgine) Weight: 240g Construction: Twill by Three Heavy Color: Khaki (PantoneÂŽ 16-0205 TCX) Purchase Price: â&#x201A;Ź5,00 at Cascine Market Fabrication: Made in Italy, most likely in the late 1970s to 1980s Care:

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FRONT

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BACK

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SIDE

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DETAILS- OUTSIDE

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DETAILS- INSIDE

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DETAILS: ACCESSORIES

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MEASUREMENTS (size 50) Centimeters (cm) FRONT BACK GIRTH

1 WAISTLINE SEAM CIRCUMFERENCE FROM CLOSING TO CLOSING 2 WAISTBAND- HEIGHT 3 HIGH HIP 4 LOW HIP 5 RISE/CROTCH (From Waistline Seam) 6 INSEAM (From Hem to Crotch End) 7 OUTSEAM (From Waistline Seam) 8 THIGH CIRCUMFERENCE 9 KNEE CIRCUMFERENCE 10 ANKLE CIRCUMFERENCE 11 CUFF-HEIGHT (HEM-DEPTH)

Abbreviations: Center Front (CF), Center Back (CB), Side Seam (SS), Girth (g)

45.5 52 3.5 52.5 55 25 79 101 29.5 25 23 4

45.5 52 3.5 53 55.5 40 79 101 39 29.5 26.5 4

91 104 105.5 110.5 68.5 54.5 49.5 -

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MEASUREMENTS: FRONT & BACK

TROUSERS | TECHNICAL SPECS

MEASUREMENTS (size 50) 14

POCKETS- FRONT (ANGLED WELT) LENGTH (DIAGONAL)

18.5

PLACEMENT - from CF

17.5

PLACEMENT - From Side Seam PLACEMENT - Waistline Seam to Bottom Edge INSIDE DEPTH- Pocket Width

3.5

INSIDE DEPTH- Pocket Length

19.5

INSIDE- Pocket Width

17.5

INSIDE- Pocket Length

18 PLEAT

Abbreviations: Center Front (CF), Center Back (CB), Side Seam (SS), Girth (g)

(cm)

18 7

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MEASUREMENTS & PLACEMENT: FRONT POCKET

(cm)

Pleat Stitch Length

2.5

Pleat Depth

1.75

Pleat Length #1 (from Waistline Seam)

12.7

Pleat Length #2 (from Waistline Seam)

17.8

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MEASUREMENTS & PLACEMENT: FRONT COIN POCKET

MEASUREMENTS (size 50) 15 POCKET- FRONT COIN

Abbreviations: Center Front (CF), Center Back (CB), Side Seam (SS), Girth (g)

(cm)

LENGTH

PLACEMENT- from CF

PLACEMENT- From Side Seam

INSIDE DEPTH- Pocket Width

INSIDE DEPTH- Pocket Length

6.5

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MEASUREMENTS (size 50) 16

POCKETS- BACK (DOUBLE WELT) LENGTH WIDTH (DOUBLE LIP) PLACEMENT -Waistline Seam to Edge

13 1 6.5

PLACEMENT - From Side Seam

PLACEMENT - from CB

INSIDE DEPTH- Pocket Width

INSIDE DEPTH- Pocket Length

INSIDE- Pocket Width

INSIDE- Pocket Length

17 BUTTON PLACEMENT- BACK From Pocket Edge 20 DART

Abbreviations: Center Front (CF), Center Back (CB), Side Seam (SS), Girth (g)

(cm)

TROUSERS | TECHNICAL SPECS

MEASUREMENTS & PLACEMENT: BACK POCKET

(cm) 6.5 (cm)

Darth Length (Outside)

6.5

Darth Depth (Inside)

0.5

Placement- Distance from CF

30.5

Placement- Distance from CB

TROUSERS | TECHNICAL SPECS

MEASUREMENTS (size 50) 12 ZIPPER PLACKET Width

3.5

Length

13 BUTTON PLACEMENT- FRONT

Abbreviations: Center Front (CF), Center Back (CB), Side Seam (SS), Girth (g)

(cm)

Placement- From CF

Placement- From CLOSING

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FLY DETAIL

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BELT LOOP (FRONT & BACK)

MEASUREMENTS (size 50) Belt Loop Width

FRONT (cm) 0.8

BACK (cm) 0.8

Belt Loop Height

Placement- Distance from CF

Placement- Distance from CB

Placement- Distance from SS

19 BELT LOOP

Abbreviations: Center Front (CF), Center Back (CB), Side Seam (SS), Girth (g)

TROUSERS | TECHNICAL SPECS

(size 50) Centimeters (cm)

Centimeters (cm)

FRONT BACK GIRTH 1

WAISTLINE SEAM CIRCUMFERENCE (From Hook) FROM CLOSING TO CLOSING

NOTES

45.5

104

2 WAISTBAND- HEIGHT

3.5

3 HIGH HIP

52.5

105.5

Taken 10.5 cm below Natural Waist

4 LOW HIP

55.5

110.5

Taken 18 cm below Natural Waist

5 RISE/CROTCH (From Waistline Seam)

28.5 & 43.5 (from Natural Waist)

6 INSEAM (From Hem to Crotch End)

7 OUTSEAM (From Waistline Seam)

101

104.5 (from Natural Waist)

8 THIGH CIRCUMFERENCE

29.5

68.5

Taken 3 cm below RISE/CROTCH

29.5

54.5

Taken 30.5 cm below RISE/CROTCH

26.5

49.5

Centimeters (cm) FRONT

BACK

NOTES

Width

3.5

Length

Placement- From CF

FLAT BUTTON/1.5 cm/ 15mm/ 24 LIGNES

Placement- From CLOSING

FLAT BUTTON/1.5 cm/ 15mm/ 24 LIGNES

LENGTH (DIAGONAL)

18.5

PLACEMENT - from CF

17.5

PLACEMENT - From Side Seam

3.5

PLACEMENT - Waistline Seam to Bottom Edge

INSIDE DEPTH- Pocket Width

Regular Stitch

INSIDE DEPTH- Pocket Length

19.5

Regular Stitch

INSIDE- Pocket Width

17.5

French Seam (Inside)/ Bias Seam (Outside)

INSIDE- Pocket Length

French Seam (Inside)/ Bias Seam (Outside)

12 ZIPPER PLACKET

LENGTH

PLACEMENT - from CF

PLACEMENT - From Side Seam

INSIDE DEPTH- Pocket Width

French Seam (Inside)/ Bias Seam (Outside)

INSIDE DEPTH- Pocket Length

6.5

French Seam (Inside)/ Bias Seam (Outside)

LENGTH

WIDTH (DOUBLE LIP)

PLACEMENT -Waistline Seam to Edge

6.5

PLACEMENT - From Side Seam

PLACEMENT - from CB

INSIDE DEPTH- Pocket Width

French Seam (Inside)/ Bias Seam (Outside)

INSIDE DEPTH- Pocket Length

French Seam (Inside)/ Bias Seam (Outside)

INSIDE- Pocket Width

French Seam (Inside)/ Bias Seam (Outside)

INSIDE- Pocket Length

French Seam (Inside)/ Bias Seam (Outside)

6.5

FLAT BUTTON/1.5 cm/ 15mm/ 24 LIGNES

Pleat Stitch Length

2.5

Pleat Depth

1.75

Pleat Length #1 (from Waistline Seam)

12.7

Pleat Length #2 (from Waistline Seam)

17.8

16 POCKETS- BACK (DOUBLE WELT) Each Lip is .5cm or .25in

17 BUTTON PLACEMENT- BACK From Pocket Edge 18 PLEAT

13 BUTTON PLACEMENT- FRONT

14 POCKETS- FRONT (ANGLED WELT)

Abbreviations: Center Front (CF), Center Back (CB), Side Seam (SS), Girth (g)

NOTES

15 POCKET- FRONT COIN

45.5

9 KNEE CIRCUMFERENCE ANKLE CIRCUMFERENCE/ BOTTOM 10 EDGE 11 CUFF-HEIGHT (HEM-DEPTH)

FRONT BACK

TROUSERS | TECHNICAL SPECS

MEASUREMENTS (ALL)

19 BELT LOOP Belt Loop Width

0.8

Belt Loop Height

Placement- Distance from CF

Placement- Distance from CB

Placement- Distance from SS

Darth Length (Outside)

6.5

Darth Depth (Inside)

0.5

Placement- Distance from CF

30.5

Placement- Distance from CB

20 DART

TROUSERS | TECHNICAL SPECS

MATERIALS FABRICS:

ACCESSORIES

100% Wool 240g Twill by Three Heavy Khaki (Pantone® 16-0205 TCX)

One (1) Waistband • Waistband Ribbon- 100% Bright Viscose 120g in Shiny White (Pantone © 000C) • Waistband Reinforcement (Inside)- Tarlatana 100% Cotton 120g; Plain Weave in White (Pantone® 11-4001) • Waistband Reinforcement (Inside)- TNT by Paper 40g; Beige (Pantone 11-0110 TCX) • Size: 2cm x 91cm

Lining 1 (Pockets): 100% Cotton 200g, in Bright White (Pantone® 11-0601 TCX) Lining 2 (Inside Front): 100% Polyester Acetated 110g in Shiny White (Pantone © 000C) Four (4) Buttons Type : Round 4-Hole Flat Material: Plastic Color: Beige (Pantone® 467) Size: 24 Lignes (15mm)

THREADS Thread/Filo -DTM Body (Outside) 100% Cotton in Green (Pantone® PQ-7490) Thread/Filo -DTM Body (Inside) 100% Cotton in Dark Green (Pantone® PQ-7498) Thread/Filo -DTM Pocketing/Waistband 100% Polyester in Beige (Pantone 11-0110 TCX) Thread/Filo -DTM Pocketing/Waistband 100% Nylon Invisible

One (1) Hook & Bar Closure Type: 3-prong Material: Metal Color: Silver Pantone ® 877 Size: 10mm

One (1) Zipper Type: Regular Material: Nylon Color: Gray (Pantone® 7) Size: 19mm

LABELS Main Label (above Right Front Pocket): Confezioni Richard Firenze Size: 7cm x 3cm Special Label (attached to bottom): Country of Origin (Made in Italy) & Fabric (Pure New Wool) Size: 2cm x 2.5cm

TROUSERS | TECHNICAL SPECS

1 Needle Top Straight Long Stitch (2-threads)/ 3 Points/cm

Fly-Jay Stitch (Outside) Two Thread Chain Stitch 2 Points/cm

Bias-bound Seam

French Stitch

Outside Stitches (MOST): 1 Needle Top Straight Stitch/ 4 Points/cm

French Stitch

1 Needle Top Straight Long Stitch/ 3 Points/cm

Pockets (Inside): Bias-bound Seam/ 1 Needle Top Straight Stitch/ 3 Points/cm French seam/ 1 Needle Top Straight Stitch/ 3 Points/cm 1 Needle Top Straight Stitch (Center)/ 3 Points/cm

Bias Bind Stitch

Pockets (Outside): 1 Needle Top Straight Stitch/ 4 Points/cm

Bias Bind Stitch

Inside Stitches (MOST): Slant Over-edge Stitch (3-threads) / Overlock Seam 8 points/cm

French Seam

TROUSERS | TECHNICAL SPECS

SEAMS & STITCHES (CUCITURE)

Fly (Inside) Lockstitch 4 Points/cm Plain Seam with Zig Zag Lockstitch 4 Points/cm

Lining Seam (Inside Above Pockets ): Slant Over-edge Reversed Stitch 2 Points/cm Nylon; Used to for attaching pockets..

Narrow Keyhole Buttonhole Stitch: 10 Points/cm

Turned & Stitched Hem Hem (Outside) 1 Needle Top Straight Stitch 3 Points/cm

Hem (Inside): Double Overlock (Zig Zag) Stitch 2 Points/cm Bar Tack Stitches (Outside & Inside) 15 Points/cm

TROUSERS | TECHNICAL SPECS

200cm

FABRIC: 100% Wool

FABRIC: 100% Cotton

FABRIC: 100% Polyester Acetated

USE/ PLACEMENT

Main Fabric, outside

USE/ PLACEMENT

Fabric for Pockets & Waistband

USE/ PLACEMENT

Interior Lining for Front

CONSUMPTION

140cm

CONSUMPTION

55cm

CONSUMPTION

65cm

FABRIC WEIGHT

240g

FABRIC WEIGHT

200g

FABRIC WEIGHT

110g

INDUSTRIAL COST

€6.17/m

INDUSTRIAL COST

€2.30/m

INDUSTRIAL COST

€2.33/m

PATTERNS

150cm

CARE:

= =

0cm

50cm

100cm

TROUSERS | TECHNICAL SPECS

FABRICS & CARE INSTRUCTIONS

50cm

100cm

150cm

200cm

250cm

300cm

TROUSERS | TECHNICAL SPECS

SIZE: 50 NAME: Classic Trousers STYLE: 2-Pleated Trousers DATE: 1/24/2019 DESIGNER: Confezioni Richard Firenze FIT: Wide Leg DESCRIPTION: Classic 1940s 2-Pleated, Front angled welt pockets,Front coin pocket, back double welt (besom) pockets, & cuffed legs. ITEM/ DESCRIPTION Khaki Wool Fabric Pocketing/ Waistband Fodera, non-woven, in front Zipper Buttons/ Bottoni

CONTENT/ TYPE

PLACEMENT

100% WOOL Body 100% COTTON Pockets/ Waistband 100% Polyester Front Body Acetated Nylon, Regular type Fly CF Waistband/Front Plastic; Round Flat Pockets/ Back 4-Hole Pockets Metal/ 3 prong CF Waistband

CONSTRUCTION

WEIGHT/ SIZE

Twill by 3 Heavy Twill by 4 Neutral

240g 200g

Light

110g

Hook & Bar Closure/ Ganchi Thread/Filo -DTM Body 100% spun cotton Join & Overlock Single ply/ Yarn dyed (Inside Stitches) Thread/Filo -DTM Body 100% spun cotton Top Stitch 2-Ply/ Yarn Dyed (Outside Stiches) Thread/Filo -DTM 100% Polyester Pockets/ Waistband Single ply Pocketing/Waistband Thread/Filo -DTM 100% Invisible Nylon Join & Overlock Serge Stitch Pocketing/Waistband Pocket Reinforcement Ribbon 100% Polyester Pockets Bias Bound Stitch (Outside) Acetated Waistband Back Ribbon 100% Bright Viscose Waistband Striped Waistband Reinforcement 100% Cotton/ Waistband Plain (Inside) Tarlatana Teleta Adhesiva TNT by Paper Waistband/Fly No Weave (Fiber)

CONSUMPTION/ RETAIL WHOLESALE QTY DIMENSIONS PRICE PRICE* € 140cm* 18.50 € 6.17 1.40 € 55cm 6.90 € 2.30 0.55

TOTAL € €

8.63 1.27

€

7.00 €

2.33

0.66

€

1.54

19mm

€

1.30

€

0.43

1.00

€

0.43

24 Lignes (15mm)

€

0.80 €

0.27

4.00

€

1.07

10mm

€

1.50

€

0.50

1.00

€

0.50

150m

€

2.90

€

0.97

1.00

€

0.97

150m

€

2.90

€

0.97

1.00

€

0.97

150m

€8,50 10m € (€0.85/m)

0.28

1.00

€

0.28

150m

€

3.00 €

1.00

€

1.00

66cm

110g/ 2cm

164cm

€

0.80 €

0.27

1.64

€

0.44

120g/ 2cm

106cm

€

0.80 €

0.27

1.06

€

0.28

120g

5cm x 108cm

€

4.50 €

1.50

0.05

€

0.08

40g

2cm x 106cm

€4.00 5m € (€0.80/m)

0.27

1.00

€

0.27

TOTAL MATERIAL COST *The Wholesale/Industrial Price is 1/3 of the Retail, as suggested by Bini and Moretti. Retail Prices are from Tessuti Bacci & Casa della Lampo.

TROUSERS | TECHNICAL SPECS

BILL OF MATERIALS

€ 17.72 18

TROUSERS | TECHNICAL SPECS

Pockets

Bias Bound Stitch

110g/ 2cm

164cm

€

0.80 €

0.27

1.64

€

0.44

Waistband

Striped

120g/ 2cm

106cm

€

0.80 €

0.27

1.06

€

0.28

Waistband

Plain

120g

5cm x 108cm

€

4.50 €

1.50

0.05

€

0.08

Waistband/Fly

No Weave (Fiber)

40g

2cm x 106cm

€4.00 5m € (€0.80/m)

0.27

1.00

€

0.27

€ 17.72

TOTAL MATERIAL COST *The Wholesale/Industrial Price is 1/3 of the Retail, as suggested by Bini and Moretti. Retail Prices are from Tessuti Bacci & Casa della Lampo.

OPERATIONS (DECONSTRUCTION)

PRODUCTION TIMES & LABOR COSTS OPERATIONS* CUTTING Cutting Drill Shade Marking

€/MIN**

MINUTES

SEWING #REF! #REF! #REF!

7 3

€ €

0.40 0.40

€ €

2.80 1.20

10 5

0.40 € 0.40 € 0.40 € 0.40 € 0.40 €

4.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 4.00

0.40

€

2.00

€

20.00

#REF!

5 5

POCKETS

€ € € € €

IRONING IRONING

€

TOTAL LABOR COST

*Bini suggested not to use the Deconsutruction times given a pant takes 40-50 minutes to **Assuming €0,40 per hour, as specified by Bini

COST BREAKDOWN & PRICE MATERIALS COST MANUFACTURING COST TOTAL PRODUCT COST Mark Up (400%)* TOTAL PRODUCT PRICE

ACTION

LABOR COST

€ € €

17.72 20.00 37.72

€

150.87

* Garment made in Tailor Shop/Laboratory. Bini suggested a 400% Markup.

HALF PANT (min.)

SEPARATION OF LEGS 1 SEPARATION of 1/2 PANT (CB to Zipper- clamps detached) 2 SEPARATION of 1/2 PANT (Zipper to CF)

3 4 5 6 7 8

WAISTBAND Detach Belt Loops (3) from Legs Opening WAISTBAND (Nylon Thread) Detach WAISTBAND from SS Detach FULL WAISTBAND (Ribbon) Detach WAISTBAND from Pocket Side Detach Rest of WAISTBAND

40 23 17 97 3 13 6 61 6 8

OUTSEAMS 9 OUTSEAM (Secondary/2nd SS Stitch for POCKETS support) 10 OUTSEAM (Primary/1st SS Stitch) INSEAMS 11 INSEAM (From Hem to Crotch) HEMS 12 HEMS (Expand Front & Back)

71 45 26 7 7 5 5

POCKETS 13 POCKET- FRONT (LINING) 14 POCKET- COIN POCKET (1) 15 POCKET- BACK

90 35 15 40

LINING REMOVAL 16 Lining Removal

18 18

17 18 19 20

TROUSERS | TECHNICAL SPECS

Pocket Reinforcement Ribbon 100% Polyester (Outside) Acetated Waistband Back Ribbon 100% Bright Viscose Waistband Reinforcement 100% Cotton/ (Inside) Tarlatana Teleta Adhesiva TNT by Paper

IRONING Back Leg Front Leg Waistband/Zippper Pockets + Linings+Etc

57 10 12 5 30

PATTERN ACCOMODATION 18 Pattern Accomodation TOTAL TIME (MINUTES)

TOTAL TIME (HOURS)

45 45 430

7Hrs 12Min

Note: Deconstruction times include note taking and saving materials (i.e. threads and accessories.)

Bini, Vittorio. “Ready to Wear Course.” Oct 2018. POLIMODA. Cardelli, Cinzia. “Technical Sheets Course.” Jan 2019. POLIMODA. Cave, James. “A Genius Guide To Understanding The Laundry Symbols On Your Clothes.” Huffington Post. 14 Sept. 2016. Web. Retrieved January 19, 2019, from https://www.huffpost.com/entry/laundry-symbols_n_57b38324e4b04ff883993f91 Kershaw, Gareth. Pattern Cutting for Menswear. London: Laurence King Publishing Inc., 2013. Print. Lee, J. and Steen, C. Technical Sourcebook for Designers(2nd edition). New York: Bloomsbury Publishing Inc., 2014. Print. Moretti, Giuseppe. “Textile Science Course.” October 2018. POLIMODA. Occhipinti, Giulia "YSL Project." Technical Sheets Course by Cinzia Cardelli. POLIMODA. Jan 2019. PRINT-Student Archive. “Pricing- Materials.” Casa della Lampo. Piazzale della Porta al Prato, 50, 50123 Firenze FI. Visited on 24 Jan 2019. “Pricing- Materials.” Tessuti Bacci Store, Bacci snc di Bacci Patrizia & Co. Via dell'Ariento, 32/r, 50123 Firenze FI, Italy. Visited on 1-Feb 2019. “Pricing- Materials.” La Merceria. Via Faenza, 57/red, 50123 Firenze FI, Italy. Visited on 1-Feb 2019.

TROUSERS | TECHNICAL SPECS

REFERENCES

“Stitch References.” Singer. Web. Retrieved January 23, 2019, from https://www.singer.com/sewing-resources/stitch-reference Wesen Bryant, M. & DeMers, D., The Spec Manual (2nd edition). New York: Fairchild Publication, Inc., 2006. Print.

TROUSERS | TECHNICAL SPECS

trousers trousers