trousers Ana M. Levis
Ana M. Levis Midterm Project:: Trousers Master of Product Managment 2018-2019 Florence, Italy Š 2019 www.analevis.com
trousers trousers By Ana Levis
Table of Contents
Table of Contents WHAT THE…PANT?
Learn about the history of pants and trousers.
THE FEMINIST ENABLER
Out of all the male originated garments, trousers have been by far, the most controversial, meanwhile the most empowering one. Learn about trousers’ feminist past and the iconic women who broke the ”status quo.”
THE rEVOLUTIONaries
The fashion designers that changed the game and made ”wearing the pants” what they are today.
WEARING THE PANTS
Assessment of current female trends, attitudes and perceptions of trousers and commentary about ”wearing the pants.”
THE CHOSEN ONES
Analysis of the pair of trousers I chose (main characteristics, photographic documentation, technical drawings, materials, and costs) and a shopping report of trousers in Puerto Rico/U.S. & Europe.
Bienvenuti Benvenuti nel mio mondo
preface
dei pantaloni
I have never really liked trousers (or pants, or cargos, or jeans). If any, shorts and jumpsuits. So when I chose the ”trousers” ballot for my midterm, I was quite disappointed. I looked to exchange it for any other alternative. My first reaction: ”what are Trousers?” I had never used the word trousers. As a Puerto Rican, this is not a word close to my vocabulary. The word pantalones or pants described them all. So with an impetuous attitude, I began my assignment. My first discovery was that ”trousers” is actually the correct term when referring to tailored garments with a fitted waistline, pockets, and a zipper. While the words ”pants” and ”trousers” are often used interchangeably, ”pants” are often undergarments, but used to refer to trousers, bloomers, knickerbockers, breeches, slacks, jeans, shorts, capris,, and almost every leg covering garment, for that matter. In my mind, something that stood out was the phrase, ”ella tiene pantalones” (Spanish for ”she wears the pants”), which recognizes a powerful and strong woman with the ability to run and achieve tasks like men (= to wearing of trousers like men). And this phrase, .drives me crazy. In my second deliverable, I researched the history of ”trousers.” And to my surprise, ran into the influential role of trousers in women equality and empowerment. I now understand why this phrase came about and what it represents in society. The task at hand has been a new adventure. After measuring, deconstructing, pattern-making, researching and analyzing everything…. TROUSERS mean so much more and symbolize many of the goals I have set myself to achieve., many of which I am here today. The focus of this book is on women and the role that trousers had (and continue to have) making each and every one of us stronger and powerful. I will take you from the history of trousers, to their role in women revolutions, and female perspectives about trousers today. In this context, I am proud to say that I WEAR THE PANTS. Benvenuti nel mio mondo dei pantaloni. Enjoy.
Ana M. Levis
one WHAT THE... PANT? Pants, have existed since ancient times (by horse riders), worn through the Medieval Age (as military wear), subsequently becoming the most common type of lower body clothing for men in the modern era (for work), yet increasingly worn by women since the mid- 20th century. This chapter covers the history & evolution of trousers..
history
chapter one
History goes far back
Pants, have existed since ancient times (by horse riders), worn through the Medieval Age (as military wear), subsequently becoming the most common type of lower body clothing for men in the modern era (for work), yet increasingly worn by women since the mid- 20th century.
THE FIRST PANTS
PANTS IN EUROPE
Although there is evidence of pants in 13th century BC, the history of trousers in
In the 1500s, men of medieval Europe wore snug fitting pants or leggings with a
Western culture really begins in the 6th century BC, worn by the equestrian warrior
short tunic. Women wore a kind of legging or loose britches under dresses in colder
cultures of Asia minor. The Sythians of the area encompassed by today's Ukraine,
weather for warmth. These evolved into a tighter form of leg covering, and began to
Bulgaria, and Romania wore loose pants tucked into boots. The Amazons, female
appear more like hose with attached foot coverings. By late 1500s, men wore
warriors of Greek mythology, have also been described wearing trousers. By the 5th
voluminous knee breeches with attached hose. Fashionable men wore them in
century BC , Persians (of modern Iran) had adopted pants.
bold colors. The breeches were lined and slashed to reveal a brightly colored lining. By 1550, the breeches became a greatly exaggerated fashion, stuffed to balloon
The Sythian and Persian pant-style spread through Central Europe around the 3rd
around the upper leg.
century BC, worn by Celts and others. At the same time, Greeks and Romans avoided pants, because perceived the wearing of trousers for barbarians and
In the 1600s, these pantaloons became embellished with buttons and ribbons.
savages. In the first century AD, Romans conquered Celtic Briton and as cultures
Working men of the lower classes wore ankle length pants. Large styles gradually
mixed, Roman soldiers started wearing a form of pants called Braccae, similar to
became slimmer into simple length breeches fastened below the knee. During the
tight Capris, given these were better for cold weather climates than togas.
French Revolution, breeches were perceived as an aristocratic conceit and men adapted the longer ankle length styles of the working class. For women, pants were
And so, through the first centuries AD, the use of trousers became military wear, and for men.
an undergarment worn beneath the skirt and were called pantalettes.
1 9 TH C E N T U R Y P A N T S
2 0 TH C E N T U R Y P A N T S
Early 19th century, men's pants were tight and occasionally fitted with stirrup straps
Paul Poiret, the famous early 20th century fashion designer, introduced a line based
that fit under the soles of the feet to create a smooth line. By mid-century a looser fit
on the Ballet Russes’ Sheherazade which featured a long tunic worn over harem
trouser with button fly front , in the dark or neutral colors that would rule menswear
pants. The loose style pants eventually found their way into women's wardrobes as
until present day.
hostess or palazzo pants, sometimes worn at the beach. They became quite popular in the 1930s and were seen on fashion icons like Coco Chanel and Katharine
In Victorian society, attire was strictly regulated and the types of garments people
Hepburn.
wore where dictated by the Church and government. Women wearing pants was inappropriate, yet some trouser clad women shocked society. Mid-1800s, Feminists
During World War I when British women took over factory and farm work, replacing
pioneered the Dress Reform Movement, to clamor for freedom of movement and
men gone into the military, pants took on a new role for women as a practical
seeking a new style of dress at work, or for athletic activities.
garment. World War II put women back into the work force and back into pants. Famous posters of female workers encouraged women to wear practical bib overalls
Bloomers, made famous by Amelia Bloomer, were invented by Elizabeth Smith
and dungarees, or what we now call jeans.
Miller. The long, puffy pants gathered at the ankles were worn with a short (knee or calf length) dress, catching the attention of many, including the media, who
The later 20th century saw an explosion of trouser styles for men and women.
ridiculed the style. By the end of the 19th century, women began to appear in public
Trousers became acceptable dress and business wear for women by the late 1970s,
wearing toned down bloomers or knickers for bike riding and other sports.
with pants suits worn by women in high positions. Jeans evolved from practical work garments to the symbol of outsider fashion, to the classic garment no one can be
In 1873, Levi Strauss introduced jeans, in the form of denim overalls created and marketed for California gold miners. Embraced by farmers and laborers, jeans ultimately became the iconic garment of the late 20th century and today.
without.
one WHAT THE PANT?
Modern day Modern day pants
one HISTORY OF TROUSERS
timeline
timeline 6th century BC: Persians, Eastern and Central Asian horse riders
1914: (WWI) Women wear trousers as they take on jobs previously assigned to men, and increasingly wore trousers as leisurewear
Late 1300s: Military wear (tight trousers with foot coverings)
1920s: The classic pleated trouser is born. J. Alfred Prufrock declares, “I shall wear the bottoms of my trousers rolled.”
1500s: voluminous, ballooning over the thighs & nipping in at the ankle
1930s: Various women in Hollywood became known for their love of pants.
1939: WWII women working industrial jobs wear trousers. The post-war era trousers still common casual wear for gardening, socializing, and other leisure pursuits.
1701: Trousers became de rigueur, literally, as Czar Peter the Great passed a law requiring all Russians to wear them (farmers and clergy people were the only exceptions)
1944: In Britain, women take to wearing their husbands’ clothes to work as replacements are needed. Summer sales of women’s trousers increase 5x more than previous year.
1790s: During the French Revolution, the radical working-class faction, who wore regular trousers, became known as les sans-culottes.
1950s: Pants were sold outside the Western US states and transitioned from workwear to rebel wear.
1960: AndrÊ Courrèges introduces jeans for women, leading the era of designer jeans.
1851: "Bloomers," made famous by Amelia Bloomer.
1970s: Officially, trousers are accepted as female attire around the Western World
1980s: MC Hammer pioneered the modification on harem pants that would eventually bear his name.
1873: Levi Strauss introduced jeans, in the form of denim overalls.
1981 Run-DMC pioneered Adidas track pants as a style statement.
1988 Loosefitting, riotously printed Zubaz pants, became popular outside the gym.
1989: 1st woman to wear trousers in the U.S. Senate
1900s: Trousers for work, rather than Military. Pleated trousers are the norm, originally made by tailors as part of a 3piece suit.
1990s: 2 styles ruled "casual Friday": Dockers & ultra wide JNCOs
one WHAT THE PANT?
19th century: looser with a button in neutral colors
Late 1880s: Women start wearing trousers for leisure activities (riding & cycling)
one WHAT THE PANT?
Types
Types of Pants Baggies
Cutoff Jeans
Leggings
Shorts
Bell-bottoms
Cycling shorts
Oxford Bags
Short jumpsuits
Bermudas
Cycling trousers
Palazzo pants
Side-opening trousers
Bloomers
Daisy Dukes
Pedal Pushers/ Clam Diggers
Ski trousers
Bottle dress trousers
Dungarees/Overalls
Pegged trousers
Slacks/ Flat trousers
Brees
Fisherman’s pants
Peplum pants
Straight Fit pants
Capri pants
Gauchos
Phat pants
Stirrup pants
Cargo/Fatigue pants
Harem pants
Pleated trousers
Suspender pants
Carpenter’s pants
Jeans
Pregnancy pants
Sweatpants
Chaps/ Cowboy Pants
Jodhpurs
Riding breeches
Tailored Pants
Chinos
Jogging pants
Sailor trousers
Tuxedo pants
Cigarette trousers
Knickerbockers
Sarouel pants
Wrapped trousers Yoked pants
Various styles of trousers have come and gone in the past 112 years with certain styles disappearing for decades, then coming back full force. The stirrup stretch pants of the early 1960s returned in the 1980s. Capris have disappeared and made a comeback. Pants’ innovated with a focus on functionality and comfort. The zipper closure, invented by American Whitcomb Judson, was introduced into exclusive men's tailored pants By the end as fly closures, in the end of the Great depression . By the 1950s, zippers had become the main closure for trousers. Size zippers were introduced in the mid 20th century, specifically for women's pants. Social norms of the 1940s and 1950s dictated a feminine modesty that seemed threatened by the easy removal made possible by front zip slacks. Side zippers remained relevant as they create a smoother line for today’s form fitting slacks of the day. Classic trousers, originally made by tailors as part of a 3-piece suit, followed fashion with their changing lines, shapes, and fits. From the 1880s-1930s, trousers were high-waisted with a low crotch. Today, the waist is either in place or slightly dropped. Leg width varies depending on fashion, however, details of tailored trousers (which remain stable) include: waistbands with silicone bands inside (to hold a shirt in place), belt loops, easily accessible pockets, a fly front, and linings for more comfort.
one WHAT THE PANT?
Functionality Functionality & silhouettes
two THE FEMINIST ENABLER Out of all the male originated garments, trousers have been by far, the most controversial, meanwhile the most empowering one. In this chapter, I present trousers feminist past and the iconic women who broke the �status quo.�
The feminist enabler
chapter two
The feminist enabler
Pants are about women more than men, about what it feels like to wear them rather than how people respond to them. From their earliest associations with suffragists and female athletes to their newfound popularity, these breezy pants are about liberation, and, there really is nothing sexier than that The style first emerged at the turn of the last century, owing in part to the era’s bicycle craze. Thanks to what was essentially a split-leg skirt, women were suddenly much more independently mobile. The independent choice for women to wear pants was not easy for many. In Paris, women were arrested for wearing them in public; a French law forbade female trouser-wearing unless “the woman is holding a bicycle handlebar or the reins of a horse.” In the 1930s, when tennis player Lili de Alvarez dared to wear a Schiaparelli version at Wimbledon, The Daily Mail suggested that she “should be soundly beaten.” And like many movements, some women rebelled and wore the trousers. Females wearing pants, slowly but surely paved way for the freedom for all women to wear pants in the Western world. This chapter presents the historical role that trousers had in empowering women and women movements. In this role, it is noteworthy to point out the archetypal femmes who broke the ”status quo” and reworked the male style.
two THE FEMINIST ENABLER
A feminist past A feminist past Marlene Dietrich
5th century BC: Amazonian women depicted wearing trousers on vases
1400s: Joan of Arc chose pants for: combat, horseback riding, & protection from being groped.
1851: Elizabeth Smith Miller created “Turkish trousers,” style adopted by Amelia Bloomer, paving way for ”bloomers.”
1911: Designer Paul Poiret presents collection featuring harem pants, using his wife, Denise Poiret as the muse.
1914: (WWI) In the US, women wear their husbands’ (altered) trousers while they took on jobs previously assigned to men, and increasingly wore trousers as leisurewear
1914: (WWI) In France, Munitionnette s (women farmers) started wearing pants.
1930s: Marlene Dietrich and Greta Garbo became known for their love of pants.
Katherine Hepburn
1939: WWII women working industrial jobs wear trousers. The post-war era trousers still common casual wear for gardening, socializing, and other leisure pursuits.
1940s: Stars like Katharine Hepburn & Lauren Bacall popularized high-waisted trousers.
1944: In Britain, women take to wearing their husbands’ clothes to work. Summer sales of women’s trousers increase 5x more than previous year.
MEANWHILE, PANTS & JACKETS 1920s : Coco Chanel was wearing trousers and liberating women from corsets.
1930s : Widened shoulders in jackets were introduced.
1940s : A slouchier and tomboy-ish suit look was introduced.
1962: Jeanne Moreau disguised herself as the world’s most gorgeous boy, wearing trousers and a newsboy hat.
1967: A year after Tuxedos, Yves Saint Laurent proposed the first pantsuit collection his SP-SS collection.
1969: Representative Charlotte Reid becomes 1st woman to wear trousers (bellbottoms) in Congress.
1969 Barbra Streisand wears sequined transparent Arnold Scaasi pants to accept her Academy Award
1970s: Trousers are accepted as female attire in the entire Western World.
1972: Passage of Title IX Education Amendments in US, ruled that dresses could not be required of girls, changing the dress code for all public schools across the nation.
two THE FEMINIST ENABLER
1948: Sonja de Lennart designed the 1st Capri pants, soon becoming popular among stars like Audrey Hepburn & Anita Ekberg.
1980 Brooke Shield’s commercial for Calvin Klein Jeans ushers the era of designer jeans.
1989: Senator Rebecca Morgan becomes the first woman to wear trousers in a U.S. Senate
BECOME THE POWER SUIT 1960s: The first power suit featuring pants from YSL ignited a revolution in women’s fashion.
1970s: Shoulder pads! The newest trend was huge shoulders.
1980s: The power suit was thrived! Giorgio Armani, Ralph Lauren and Anne Klein all had power suits in their collections.
1990’s : Pairing a pinstripe power suit with lacy camisoles and silk tops brought us a look that was a little more feminine.
2000’s: The pantsuit remains a powerful look. Power dressing and feminism were “declared dead.” RIGHT!
Now: According to WSJ, the power suit look is officially over. However, the pant suit remains POWERFUL!
two THE FEMINIST ENABLER
Marlene Dietrich ● Katherine Hepburn ● Greta Garbo ● Laura Bacall ● Bette Davis ● Eleonor Powell ● Lucille Ball ● Rita Haywood ● Ingrid Bergman ● Jean Harlow ● Claudette Colbert ● Carolle Lombard ● Liza Minnelli ● Diane Keaton
Throughout history, there have been many women who fought for injustices, many who have led with example, others who go into politics, and so forth. And then there is a group of iconic women who specifically achieved all this for trousers, by challenged the gender codes of fashion and paved the way for the ability of women to use trousers today. They wore what they chose, without caring what society imposed. Most of these women stood out between the 1930s-1970s, taking into account it was until the 1970s that trousers were accepted as female attire in the entire Western World. Thank you warriors!
Marlene Dietrich
Bette Davis
Lauren Bacall
Katherine Hepburn
two THE FEMINIST ENABLER
archetypal women archetypal women
three
THE rEVOLUTIONaries The fashion designers that changed the game and made ”wearing the pants” what they are today.
the revolutionaries the rEVOLUTIONaries
chapter three
Key fashion designers helped make trousers a feminine garment in a male dominant world. These designers went beyond, outside the box, and made the ”man” pant work for women. In this chapter, we learn about key designers who make ”wearing the pants” a whole lot better. Fred Davis stated that ”to merely be in fashion is to be one-up on those who are not yet. To be fashionable is to be modern-to have the competitive edge- an attitude inspired by a dynamic and youthful consumer culture.” Many designers gave trousers a protagonist role. Here are some that stand out.
Coco Chanel (1930s)
Yves St Laurent (1970s)
Jean Paul Gautier (1980s)
Giorgio Armani (1990s)
Thom Browne (2000s)
three THE REVOLUTIONARIES
1930s: ”Coco” Chanel COMFORT
&
POWER
Coco Chanel, also known as Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel, changed the face of fashion forever, especially for women. Coco not only wore the pants, but is one of the main reasons why WE can wear them too! She was one of the first designers to take the comfort of men's clothes and creating ‘looser’ clothing for women, challenging gender restrictions in women's clothing. In a time when women wearing trousers were frowned upon and in some places, strictly prohibited, she broke down barriers by rebelling through fashion, wearing trousers herself and often borrowing her boyfriend’s suits. She decided that women should enjoy the same freedoms as men and that corsets and skirts were physically holding them back., so she began designing trousers for women to wear while doing sports and other activities. She took inspiration from men’s clothing such as sailor suits, used masculine materials such as jersey, and ignored the structure of the 1920s corset to create pieces with boyish charm. Soon trousers became a fashion choice for women rather than merely a functional garment, a style that accelerated the already growing movement towards female empowerment and would define principles that would last a lifetime.
I gave women a sense of freedom. I gave them back their bodies: bodies that were drenched in sweat, due to fashion's finery, lace, corsets, underclothes, padding. –Coco Chanel
1938 Chanel in her hotel suite in Paris. (Getty images)
LE
SMOKING
(ENOUGH
SAID)
In August 1966, Yves Saint Laurent revolutionized fashion with Le Smoking, the first tuxedo for women, that consisted of a classic dinner jacket and trousers with a satin side-stripe, a ruffled white shirt, black bow tie and a wide cummerbund of satin. According to Business Insider, despite the so-called "second-wave feminism" of the 60s, it was still controversial for a woman to wear trousers in public. People were shocked! Gloria Emerson, influential New York Times critic, deemed the collection "lumpy" and "outdated.” Although critiqued by editors and fashion buyers, female stars took in the daring new look, including Lauren Bacall, Catherine Deneuve, Liza Minnelli, and Bianca Jagger. Dressing in the YSL trouser suit was associated with daring, rebellious women aligned with burgeoning feminist politics. One year later, Saint Laurent proposed his first pantsuit in his Spring-Summer 1967 collection. It was an unusual design for a suit, which was traditionally worn with a skirt. Just as he did for the tuxedo, Saint Laurent adapted the traditionally masculine suit for the female body. The sleeves were fitted and the waist belted, while the wide pants were flattering for the legs. He added typically female accessories, such as heels and jewelry, but still had his model wear a necktie and felt hat. YSL’s paved the way for masculine femininity and bold collections.
"For a woman, le smoking is an indispensable garment with which she finds herself continually in fashion, because it is about style, not fashion. Fashions come and go, but style is forever.” – Yves Saint Laurent
Catherine Deneuve & Yves Saint Laurent
three THE REVOLUTIONARIES
1970s: Yves Saint Laurent
three THE REVOLUTIONARIES
1980s: Jean Paul Gaultier PINSTRIPES
&
INCLUSIVITY
In Fashion Zeitgeist, Barbara Vinken described the 1980s as ”post fashion” trickling upwards from street to catwalk (contrary to previous times). In terms of gender and sexuality, it decidedly aimed to deconstruct prevailing ideas. A new woman was re-invented (again), as assertive and economically independent, materialized in the ”power dress,” a boxy shaped masculine pinstripe suit. And the winner is….. yes, Jean-Paul Gaultier. The Parisian designer took a lot of inspiration from the city, including the street, the club scene and Paris culture in the late ’70s and ’80s, which helped him break from fashion conventional forms. So more than push boundaries, JPG created new ones, especially in terms if gender staples. In the 1980s, he made sure to construct and deconstruct gender codes, questioning the categorical boundaries of gender, that in fashion, mostly came in the form of jackets and pants.. Among his fashion legacies is the oversized boxy shaped pinstripe power suit for women. And while women were adopting masculine attire, men were adopting female garments wearing skirts, corsets, and dresses with trains, increasing their masculinity. Today designers look to create inclusive runways and all have Gaultier to thank for being a pioneer. I must agree that ”For Gaultier, inclusion and diversity are integral to his design philosophy; his clothes are fun, fabulous and made for everyone,” as described by Sleek Online.
''Masculinity doesn't come from clothes. It comes from something inside you. Men and women can wear the same clothes and still be men and women. It's fun.'' - Jean-Paul Gaultier
three THE REVOLUTIONARIES
1990s: Giorgio Armani ”ARMANI
LOOK”&
POWER
SUITS
In the late 1970s, identified as the "first postmodern designer," by some Italian newspapers as he ’softened men's wear and made women's wear more concise and modern, transforming changing social roles into an "Armani look," making the casual look authoritative.’ In the 1980s, Armani’s suits became known as power suits, as they projected authority and self-confidence of the wearer. His appearance on the cover of Time magazine in 1982 made his power suit boom. Dark or neutral-colored jackets and pantsuits became standard attire for women in the workplace. Armani had freed women from their stiff suits, providing them with soft jackets without collars and with comfortable pants. Armani sought to establish an image of a woman who was strong but not harsh (a mix of the film stars Greta Garbo and Marlene Dietrich in modern dress) and who could be practical and indispensable as well as glamorous. In the 1980s, Armani’s suits projected authority and self-confidence and became the 'power suit'. A name given to suits that portrayed power and the ambition, of the wearer. When the broad shoulders of the 80's went out of style, Armani reintroduced the power suit with slimmer sleeves, more flattening lines and more feminine shoulders. ”Giorgio Armani claimed that there are no gender-specific garments, colors or styles and moved constantly between women and men, constructing their new social identities in the crumple. Baggy, shapeless, and stull yuppie chic linen suit,” as mentioned by Palmer in A Cultural History Of Dress And Fashion In The Modern Age.
”The essence of style is a simple way of saying something complex.” – Giorgio Armani
PRECISION Thom Browne is a ”power suit builder” of current times, which is no surprise given his trajectory with predecessor brands Giorgio Armani and Club Monaco ( part of the Ralph Lauren portfolio). ”He’s an intriguing paradox: both cutting-edge and traditionalist, a revolutionary designer who’s also conservative,” as described by John Heilpern from Vanity Fair. The start with me with women’s is almost the same start as it is for men’s — I really feel like I approach women’s from a strict, tailored point of view. For me, there’s so much out there for women that the last thing we need is another women’s designer who designs just dresses or things like that. I see it as taking a classic, tailored point of view for a girl and reinterpreting it in a way that people haven’t seen — and developing fabrics that are maybe more masculine and putting it into a girl’s world. Any real, true individual woman, like Diane Keaton, is always someone I love — just remembering how she is now and how she was, and how she is really strong and confident in being her own person. It’s people like that who have always stood out in their individuality, in their confidence, in their sometimes-quirky natures — that make them just really interesting people. But when you think of Diane Keaton, too, you think she has that really strong uniform that she wears — that really tailored jacket and trouser. That’s something that when I think of women’s clothing and collections in general; I would love to introduce a uniform idea. The confidence of someone that has almost a true uniform way of getting dressed — I think there’s something really strong about that.
”I do think about it (femininity) a lot. I think there’s nothing less interesting than when you do more tailored clothes for women that actually looks too masculine... A girl in beautifully tailored jackets and trousers or dresses — there’s something so confident and unique and individual about that. I think there’s nothing better.”–Thom Browne
three THE REVOLUTIONARIES
2000s: Thom Browne
four WEARING THE PANTS Survey about current trends, attitudes and perceptions of trousers and commentary about ”wearing the pants.”
Wearing the pants Wearing the pants chapter four
Women get up, put on one leg at a time and zip it up, but what we forget is that but less than 80 years ago this was a privilege strictly for men. We still live in patriarchal societies and women WEAR THE PANTS, in every sense! Women worldwide are obtaining high corporate positions, entering male-driven industries, completing more post-graduate education, and contributing more to household incomes. And in these roles, trousers make us feel powerful, strong, smart. Dress habits reveal about shifting perceptions of social groups. Looking at the dynamics of social class help to explore clothing as a marker of status of social power. In my discovery of the world of trousers, and with the above mentioned in mind, I conducted a survey to asses the perceptions of women today. The women sampled fit a �powerful female� profile.
four WEARING THE PANTS
Who wears the pants Who wears the pants According to WSJ, the power suit is over because women don't need to mold themselves into masculine looks anymore. Although women do not need masculine looks anymore, there continues to be a strong association between power and wearing pants (historically tied to male codes). On the other hand, women also feel feminine and sexy wearing pants, which I’d say is thanks to the fashion revolutionaries who have developed a strong connection between pants and femininity. The results of current female trends, attitudes and perceptions of trousers where as follows: •
42% chose ”jeans” as their favorite type of pants and 33% chose trousers. ”Others” mentioned were leggings, slacks, shorts, jumpsuits, and overalls.
•
The favorite style/fit is slim/stretch, which is the most often seen style worn.
•
The most use for trousers are for work-related and/or professional events. (45%), however 1/3 wear pants for every occasion.
•
When asked about preference between pants and others: 64% prefer dresses & skirts over pants (36%) and none mentioned another garment.
•
Pairs of pants owned ranged from 3 pairs to 45 pairs, while the average is 12 pairs per person.
•
The top feelings when ”wearing the pants” are Professional/Smart (27%), and Powerful (23%). To my surprise, comfortable was the lowest.
•
On the phrase ”she wears the pants,” 57% perceived it as positive, 29% were neutral towards it and 14% negative. The respondents who perceived it as negative are in their 30s, demonstrating there may be a generational factor for this. Further research should be conducted.
FAVORITE TYPE
Others (Slacks/ Leggings/ Etc.) 25%
Trousers 33%
Jeans 42%
FAVORITE STYLE
Other 25%
Slim/ Stretch 35%
Straight Leg 25%
Boot Cut 15%
COMMON USE
Everything 33%
Leisure Activities 22%
Sample: 14 Women Age Range: 22-74 (Mean: 38) Countries: U.S., Europe, Puerto Rico, & India
FEELING OF WEARING TROUSERS
Feminine/ Sexy 19% Work/ Professional Event 45%
Formal/ Classic 19%
Professional/ Smart 27%
Comfortable 12% Powerful 23%
SENTIMENT OF PHRASE SHE W EARS THE TROUSERS
Positive, it sounds like the lady has power. Wearing the pants makes me feel protected. –Iris, 43, President of Do Good Artist Positive, "she's the one in control", Equality. I describe Trousers as empowering. -Ivette, 44 I don’t like this expression for many reasons - some people use it in a way that say women should be in charge, especially at home. I believe that women, men, gays, everybody should be treated equally, with respect and have equal opportunities. Deisiane, 37 Don’t love the phrase ! I don’t have to wear pants to be strong and powerful, I do the same in a skirt. I believe It should be, "She wears whatever the fuck she wants.” –Ana, 36
Neutral 29%
Negative 14%
COMMENTARY ON TROUSERS I love them. Trousers make me feel comfortable, casual, chic and much younger. I Wear them with attractive tennis shoes and feel great!!-Zoila, 74, Former CEO of Doral Bank “Trousers are a classic, effortless way to look elevated everyday.” -Yolanda , 37,, Area Manager for Zadig & Voltaire For me trousers is a master piece. They are empowering. Each woman should have a pair in her closet. It's a classic piece that evokes femininity but at the same time power and equality. They make me feel responsible, feminine, and powerful. I also feel classic and well dressed. For me it something like "Hey dude you wear pants, guess what, me too plus I show my curves..”- Ivette, 44 They feel comfortable in every situation. Trousers are a sort of second skin for my leg, it helps me show my shape and my butt. If I don’t know what to wear for a specific occasions always exists a special pair of pants to wear. –Iris, 43, President of Do Good Artist They feel comfortable in every situation. Trousers are a sort of second skin for my leg, it helps me show my shape and my butt. If I don’t know what to wear for a specific occasions always exists a special pair of pants to wear. -Vanessa , 24 Trousers make me feel comfortable, sharp, professional, and smart. In a fashion sense, I think women can be powerful while being feminine, wearing skirts and dresses too, if that’s who they are, they don’t need to dress, look or behave like a men to be treated equally. – Deisiane, 37 I love trousers because they are very laid back and make look effortlessly cool and chic. They go with anything and are very versatile. You can create many looks. I think pants are a basic every woman should have in her wardrobe. -Fleur , 24
Positive 57%
four WEARING THE PANTS
ON THE PHRASE, ”SHE WEARS THE PANTS”
five THE CHOSEN ONES Analysis of the pair of trousers I chose (main characteristics, photographic documentation, technical drawings, materials, and costs) and a shopping report of trousers in Puerto Rico/U.S. & Europe.
five THE CHOSEN ONES
FIT
the trousers I chose
Description: My classic 2-pleated trousers has the 1940s style, different silhouette from preceding ones, with a wide comfortable shape and longer. Narrow waistband sits on the morphological waist, Buttoned, pointed tab extension plus additional Hook and eye closing Zipped fly front. Inner placket with banded edge continuing from waistband. 2 front folded pleats for ease 2 Front angled welt pockets and one small coin pocket 2 double welt (besom) back hip pockets with buttons Cuffed legs Center back seam on waistband, easier for alterations 6 belt loops, none at center back. Designer: Confezioni Richard Firenze Material: 100% Wool Weight: 240g Construction: Twill by Three Heavy Color: Khaki (PantoneÂŽ 16-0205 TCX) Cost: â‚Ź5,00 @ Cascine Market Fabrication: Made in Italy, most likely in the late 1970s to 1980s Care:
Additional details in Trousers: Technical Specs
five THE CHOSEN ONES
the trousers I chose
five THE CHOSEN ONES
FLATS
five THE CHOSEN ONES
DETAILS-OUTSIDE
five THE CHOSEN ONES
OPERATIONS & PRODUCTION
BILL OF MATERIALS SIZE: 50 NAME: Classic Trousers STYLE: 2-Pleated Trousers DATE: 1/24/2019 DESIGNER: Confezioni Richard Firenze FIT: Wide Leg DESCRIPTION: Classic 1940s 2-Pleated, Front angled welt pockets,Front coin pocket, back double welt (besom) pockets, & cuffed legs. ITEM/ DESCRIPTION Khaki Wool Fabric Pocketing/ Waistband Fodera, non-woven, in front Zipper Buttons/ Bottoni
CONTENT/ TYPE
PLACEMENT
100% WOOL Body 100% COTTON Pockets/ Waistband 100% Polyester Front Body Acetated Nylon, Regular type Fly CF Waistband/Front Plastic; Round Flat Pockets/ Back 4-Hole Pockets Metal/ 3 prong CF Waistband
CONSTRUCTION
WEIGHT/ SIZE
Twill by 3 Heavy Twill by 4 Neutral
240g 200g
Light
110g
-
Hook & Bar Closure/ Ganchi Thread/Filo -DTM Body 100% spun cotton Join & Overlock Single ply/ Yarn dyed (Inside Stitches) Thread/Filo -DTM Body 100% spun cotton Top Stitch 2-Ply/ Yarn Dyed (Outside Stiches) Thread/Filo -DTM 100% Polyester Pockets/ Waistband Single ply Pocketing/Waistband Thread/Filo -DTM 100% Invisible Nylon Join & Overlock Serge Stitch Pocketing/Waistband Pocket Reinforcement Ribbon 100% Polyester Pockets Bias Bound Stitch (Outside) Acetated Waistband Back Ribbon 100% Bright Viscose Waistband Striped Waistband Reinforcement 100% Cotton/ Waistband Plain (Inside) Tarlatana Teleta Adhesiva TNT by Paper Waistband/Fly No Weave (Fiber)
CONSUMPTION/ RETAIL WHOLESALE QTY DIMENSIONS PRICE PRICE* € 140cm* 18.50 € 6.17 1.40 € 55cm 6.90 € 2.30 0.55
€/MIN**
MINUTES 7
€
LABOR COST 0.40
€
2.80
8.63 1.27
7.00 €
2.33
0.66
€
1.54
19mm
€
1.30
€
0.43
1.00
€
0.43
24 Lignes (15mm)
€
0.80 €
0.27
4.00
€
1.07
10mm
€
1.50
€
0.50
1.00
€
0.50
150m
€
2.90
€
0.97
1.00
€
0.97
150m
€
2.90
€
0.97
1.00
€
0.97
150m
€8,50 10m € (€0.85/m)
0.28
1.00
€
0.28
150m
€
3.00 €
1.00
1.00
€
1.00
110g/ 2cm
164cm
€
0.80 €
0.27
1.64
€
0.44
120g/ 2cm
106cm
€
0.80 €
0.27
1.06
€
0.28
120g
5cm x 108cm
€
4.50 €
1.50
0.05
€
0.08
40g
2cm x 106cm
€4.00 5m € (€0.80/m)
0.27
1.00
€
0.27
*The Wholesale/Industrial Price is 1/3 of the Retail, as suggested by Bini and Moretti. Retail Prices are from Tessuti Bacci & Casa della Lampo.
OPERATIONS* CUTTING Cutting Drill
€ €
€
66cm
TOTAL MATERIAL COST
PRODUCTION TIMES & LABOR COSTS
TOTAL
€ 17.72
(Inside) Teleta Adhesiva
Tarlatana TNT by Paper
Waistband
Plain
120g
5cm x 108cm
€
4.50 €
1.50
0.05
€
0.08
Waistband/Fly
No Weave (Fiber)
40g
2cm x 106cm
€4.00 5m € (€0.80/m)
0.27
1.00
€
0.27
€ 17.72
OPERATIONS & PRODUCTION
*The Wholesale/Industrial Price is 1/3 of the Retail, as suggested by Bini and Moretti. Retail Prices are from Tessuti Bacci & Casa della Lampo.
PRODUCTION TIMES & LABOR COSTS OPERATIONS* CUTTING Cutting Drill Shade Marking
€/MIN**
MINUTES
SEWING #REF! #REF! #REF!
OPERATIONS (DECONSTRUCTION)
7 3
€ €
0.40 0.40
€ €
2.80 1.20
10 5
0.40 € 0.40 € 0.40 € 0.40 € 0.40 €
4.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 4.00
0.40
€
2.00
€
20.00
#REF!
5 5
POCKETS
10
€ € € € €
IRONING IRONING
5
€
TOTAL LABOR COST
50
*Bini suggested not to use the Deconsutruction times given a pant takes 40-50 minutes to **Assuming €0,40 per hour, as specified by Bini
COST BREAKDOWN & PRICE MATERIALS COST MANUFACTURING COST TOTAL PRODUCT COST Mark Up (400%)* TOTAL PRODUCT PRICE
ACTION
LABOR COST
€ € €
17.72 20.00 37.72
€
150.87
* Garment made in Tailor Shop/Laboratory. Bini suggested a 400% Markup.
HALF PANT (min.)
SEPARATION OF LEGS 1 SEPARATION of 1/2 PANT (CB to Zipper- clamps detached) 2 SEPARATION of 1/2 PANT (Zipper to CF)
3 4 5 6 7 8
WAISTBAND Detach Belt Loops (3) from Legs Opening WAISTBAND (Nylon Thread) Detach WAISTBAND from SS Detach FULL WAISTBAND (Ribbon) Detach WAISTBAND from Pocket Side Detach Rest of WAISTBAND
40 23 17 97 3 13 6 61 6 8
OUTSEAMS 9 OUTSEAM (Secondary/2nd SS Stitch for POCKETS support) 10 OUTSEAM (Primary/1st SS Stitch) INSEAMS 11 INSEAM (From Hem to Crotch) HEMS 12 HEMS (Expand Front & Back)
71 45 26 7 7 5 5
POCKETS 13 POCKET- FRONT (LINING) 14 POCKET- COIN POCKET (1) 15 POCKET- BACK
90 35 15 40
LINING REMOVAL 16 Lining Removal
18 18
17 18 19 20
IRONING Back Leg Front Leg Waistband/Zippper Pockets + Linings+Etc
57 10 12 5 30
PATTERN ACCOMODATION 18 Pattern Accomodation TOTAL TIME (MINUTES)
TOTAL TIME (HOURS)
45 45 430
7Hrs 12Min
Note: Deconstruction times include note taking and saving materials (i.e. threads and accessories.)
five THE CHOSEN ONES
TOTAL MATERIAL COST
shopping report My shopping report includes research in Puerto Rico (same offerings as U.S.) and Italy.
§ In Puerto Rico, I went to Macy’s, my father’s closet (age 80), and looked at friends’ trousers § In Italy, I looked at trousers in Luxury Brand stores, Pitti Uomo, and looked at friends’ trousers § I used Nordstrom Rack Online (US & Europe) to search for additional information of all the trousers I had looked at I noted a big difference between preferences and offerings in the US and Italy: In Puerto Rico, I did not find a single pair of male trousers with pleats. The trends in Macy’s Department Store where trousers with no pleats, stretch/slim fit, and fabric technologies highlighting comfort and no need for ironing. I asked the Macy’s salesman about pants with pleats and he said, ”we have none here. Maybe you find some online.” On the other hand, my father, 80 years old, had a combination of both pleated and non-pleated trousers. The older ones, mostly customized by a local laboratory called Clubman (had pleats and mostly made in Italy) while newer trousers (mostly from Brooks’ Brothers) had the more modern, American straight-legged, non-pleated trousers. In Italy, most trousers had at least one pleat. Online, even the same brands, had similar models, but with pleats, and slimmer legs. I may conclude that preferences for trousers fit and styles are quite distinct: Italians prefer fashionable styles and better quality (fabric and craftsmanship), whereas Americans prefer comfort and ease. In the case of my father, you see an older mindset seeking elegance and style, but limited to what is available.
five THE CHOSEN ONES
shopping report
five THE CHOSEN ONES
TROUSER
X SLIM FIT STRETCH SELF-SEPARATES
Straight leg, straight, slant front pockets, back welt pockets with no
Slim fit pant sit slightly below the waist with a slim fit though hips and
button. rectangular closing (different to others). QR code on label but
thighs and straight or narrow leg opening. Zip fly with tab closure - 2 on
didn’t work.
seam pockets - 2 back button-through welt pockets.
Location: Macy’s Puerto Rico Brand: Hugo Boss Size (US): 32L Fabric 100% Virgin Wool/ Lining 100% Viscose Retail Price: €175.00 Made in Turkey
Location: Macy’s Puerto Rico Brand: Calvin Klein Mod. Calvin JMROP J1Y0020 Light Gray Size (US): 34W x 30L Fabric 100% Wool Natural Stretch Care: Dry Clean Only Retail Price: €150.00
SLIM FIT TROUSER
Trousers with a modern slim fit. Stretch wool twill • Zip and button
Trousers with a modern slim fit. Stretch wool twill • Zip and button
closure with keyhole stitch• No pleats • Two slant pockets on the
closure with keyhole stitch• No pleats • Two slant pockets on the front •
front • Two welt pockets with back button
Two welt pockets with back button
Location: Macy’s Puerto Rico
Location: Macy’s Puerto Rico
Brand: Tommy Hilfiger
Brand: Tommy Hilfiger
Size (US): 34Wx 32L
Size (US): 34Wx 32L
Composition: 52% Wool/ 45% Polyester/ 3% Spandex
Composition: 52% Wool/ 45% Polyester/ 3% Spandex
Care : Dry Clean Only, Low Moisture, Utility Press
Care : Dry Clean Only, Low Moisture, Utility Press
Made in Mexico
Made in Mexico
Retail Price: €150.00
Retail Price: €150.00
five THE CHOSEN ONES
SLIM FIT TROUSER
five THE CHOSEN ONES
TRAVEL PANT LUXE
KERRIGAN 3-PIECE SUIT
Straight leg, Stretch Fit, Flex Stretch ™ Gripper Waste, No
Straight leg, straight, slant front pockets, back welt pockets with no
Pleats, slant front pockets, back welt pockets with no button.
button. rectangular closing (different to others). QR code on label but
rectangular closing.
didn’t work. Michael Kors Men's Classic/Regular Fit Natural Stretch Blue Check Vested Wool Suit
Location: Macy’s Puerto Rico
Location: Macy’s Puerto Rico
Brand: Perry Ellis Portfolio
Brand: Michael Kors
Size (US): 40 x 30
Mod.. Mod. KAREGA.3k2Z2222
Fabric 80% Polyester/ 18% Viscose/ 2% Elastane (Exclusive of
Size (US): 37 REG 30W
Elastic)
Fabric 100% Wool Natural Stretch
Retail Price: €75.00
Care: Dry Clean Only
Care: Machine Wash Cold. Tumble Dry Low. Cool Iron. Do Not
Retail Price: €603.00
Dry Clean. Made in Vietnam
five THE CHOSEN ONE
FLAT FRONT CORDUROY TROUSERS (BROWN)
Made in Italy. Wool/ Mohair material with corduroy texture.
Made in Italy. 100% Cotton material with corduroy texture.
Zip fly with button-tab closure and interior anchor button – 2 Front pleats; Front
Zip fly with button-tab closure and interior anchor button – 2 Front pleats; Front
slant pockets; back double welt pockets with button closure; Unhemmed.
slant pockets; back double welt pockets with button closure; Unhemmed.
Size 32 has 16" leg opening; 10 1/2" front rise; 16" back rise (size 32) –
Size 32 has 16" leg opening; 10 1/2" front rise; 16" back rise (size 32) –
Similar style and construction to Richards Confezioni.
Similar style and construction to Richards Confezioni.
Location: Closet
Location: Closet
Brand: Canali
Brand: Canali
Size (US): 32 Reg
Size (US): 32 Reg
Fabric 74% Wool/ 26% Mohair
Fabric: 100% Cotton
Fodera:100% Rayon Viscose
Fodera:100% Rayon Viscose
Retail Price: €300.00
Retail Price: €300.00
Made in Italy
Made in Italy
five THE CHOSEN ONES
FLAT FRONT CORDUROY TROUSERS (BLUE)
BIBLIOGRAPHY
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Gordon, Grace. “Jean Paul Gaultier Resurrects the 1980s for Spring 2016 Couture.” Savour Flair Online.28 Jan 2016. Web. Retrieved February 3, 2019, from https://www.savoirflair.com/fashion/177461/jean-paul-gaultier-spring-2016-couture Hallas, Dominique. “Expert Take: Martin Margiela’s Lasting Influence On Fashion.” TheRealReal.com. 1 May 2018. Web. Retrieved February 3, 2019, from https://realstyle.therealreal.com/martinmargiela-lasting-influence-on-fashion/ Heilpern, John. “Designer Thom Browne Explains the Virtues of Imperfection. Vanity Fair Online. Sept 2015. Retrieved February 3, 2019, from https://www.vanityfair.com/style/2015/08/thombrowne-style-suits Hinds, Kathryn. “Women In Trousers: Hollywood Icons.” Pinterest.com. Web. Retrieved January 15, 2019, from https://www.pinterest.com/kathrynfhinds/women-in-trousers-hollywoodicons/?lp=true “History of Women Wearing Men's Clothing.” KirrinFinch.com. 17 Feb 2017. Retrieved February 1, 2019, from https://kirrinfinch.com/blogs/news/history-of-women-wearing-mens-clothing Hyland, Véronique. “Great Moments in Pants: A Handy Trouser Timeline.” The Cut. 12 Sept. 2014. Web. Retrieved January 10, 2019, from https://www.thecut.com/2014/08/pants-o-pedia-a-history-oftrousers.html Hyland, Véronique. “The Feminist Past — and Present — of Culottes.” The Cut. 14 Jun 2015. Web. Retrieved January 10, 2019, from https://www.thecut.com/2015/06/culottes-feminist-pastpresent.html Kershaw, Gareth. Pattern Cutting for Menswear. London: Laurence King Publishing Inc., 2013. Print. Komar, Marlen. “The Evolution Of The Female Power Suit & What It Means.” Bustle.com. 14 Apr 2016. Web. Retrieved February 2, 2019, from https://www.bustle.com/articles/152069-the-evolution-ofthe-female-power-suit-what-it-means-photos Lee, J. and Steen, C. Technical Sourcebook for Designers(2nd edition). New York: Bloomsbury Publishing Inc., 2014. Print. Lomrantz Lester, Tracey, “5 Things You Can Thank Coco Chanel For (Including Her Awesome New Biopic). Glamour.com. Sept 30, 2009. Web. Retrieved January 30, 2019, from https://www.glamour.com/story/5-things-you-can-thank-coco-ch “Masterclass: The History of the Power Suit.” Designer-Vintage.com. 10 Jun 2016. Web. Retrieved February 1, 2019, from https://www.designer-vintage.com/en/masterclass/article/the-history-of-the-power-suit “Masterclass: Giorgio Armani's Power Suits.” Designer-Vintage.com. 18 Apr 2016 Web. Retrieved February 1, 2019, from https://www.designer-vintage.com/en/masterclass/article/giorgio-armani-s-power-suits Mayor, Adrienne. “Who Invented Trousers?” Academia.edu. Natural History. Oct. 2014. Web. Retrieved December 2, 2019, from https://www.academia.edu/8737411/Who_Invented_Trousers McSweeney, Johanna. “The Birth of Bloomers: a search for the beginning of women’s trousers in nineteenth century America.” Academia.edu. Web. Retrieved December 2, 2019, from https://www.academia.edu/15818710/The_Birth_of_Bloomers_a_search_for_the_beginning_of_womens_trousers_in_nineteenth_century_America
BIBLIOGRAPHY
REFERENCES AND CITATIONS
BIBLIOGRAPHY
REFERENCES AND CITATIONS “Michael Kors Men’s Classic/ Regular Fit Vested Wool Suit.” Macys.com. https://www.macys.com/shop/product/michael-kors-mens-classic-regular-fit-natural-stretch-blue-check-vested-wool-suit Mitchell, Timothy. “The 13 biggest tuxedo icons in fashion.” NY Post. 28 May 2014. Web. Retrieved January 10, 2019, from https://nypost.com/2014/05/28/the-13-biggest-tuxedo-icons-in-fashion/ Monet, Dolores. “A History of Trousers and Pants in Western Culture.” Bellatory. 3 Jan. 2018. Web. Retrieved January 10, 2019, from https://bellatory.com/fashion-industry/A-History-of-Trousers-andPants-in-Western-Culture Moretti, Giuseppe. “Textile Science Course.” October 2018. POLIMODA. Nina. “Trendy Women’s Pants Fall- Winter 2018-2019.” All Fashion and Make-up Online. 6 Sept 2018. Web. Retrieved February 2, 2019, from http://afmu.net/trendy-womens-pants-fall-winter-20182019/ Nordstrom Rack Online. Web. Retrieved January 9, 2019, from https://www.nordstromrack.com/shop/Men/Clothing/Pants/Dress Occhipinti, Giulia "YSL Project." Technical Sheets Course by Cinzia Cardelli. POLIMODA. Jan 2019. PRINT-Student Archive. O’Flaherty, Mark C. “Thom Browne talks personal taste: Part One.” Fianncial Times. 28 Apr 2014. Web. Retrieved February 4, 2019, from https://howtospendit.ft.com/mens-style/53503-aesthetethom-browne-part-1 Palmer, Alexandra. A Cultural History Of Dress And Fashion In The Modern Age. New York: Bloomsbury Publishing Plc. 2017. Web. Retrieved February 3, 2019, from https://books.google.it/books?id=6xGEDwAAQBAJ&pg=PA122&lpg=PA122&dq=jean+paul+gaultier+1980s+pinstripes+history&source=bl&ots=v1Fs4qVbDY&sig=ACfU3U1akZkGh7Pmfiy4ti6qUfjPSuOwg&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwiD6tixiaDgAhXN2OAKHfoQASw4ChDoATAHegQIABAB#v=onepage&q&f=false “Pricing- Materials.” Casa della Lampo. Piazzale della Porta al Prato, 50, 50123 Firenze FI. Visited on 24 Jan 2019. “Pricing- Materials.” Tessuti Bacci Store, Bacci snc di Bacci Patrizia & Co. Via dell'Ariento, 32/r, 50123 Firenze FI, Italy. Visited on 1-Feb 2019. “Pricing- Materials.” La Merceria. Via Faenza, 57/red, 50123 Firenze FI, Italy. Visited on 1-Feb 2019. Shardlow, Estella. “How Yves Saint Laurent Revolutionized Women's Fashion By Popularizing The "Le Smoking Suit.” Business Insider Online. 8 Aug 2011. Web. Retrieved February 2, 2018, from https://www.businessinsider.com/ysls-greatest-fashion-hits-2011-8?IR=T Sheenan, Tom. “Where the hell do TROUSERS come from?” You Tube. Why Complex. 6 April 2017. Web. Retrieved December 2, 2018, from https://youtu.be/HOz2U83VI-8 Social Thoughts. “Coco Chanel's Feminist Progress Through Fashion.” Bellatory.com. August, 29 2017. Web. Retrieved January 30, 2019, from https://bellatory.com/fashion-industry/ChanelFeminism-Through-Fashion “Stitch References.” Singer. Web. Retrieved January 23, 2019, from https://www.singer.com/sewing-resources/stitch-reference Tembouret, Mireille. Culotté! Wearing the Trousers. Paris: Esmod Editions, 2012. Print.
Wesen Bryant, M. & DeMers, D., The Spec Manual (2nd edition). New York: Fairchild Publication, Inc., 2006. Print. White, Nicole. Giorgio Armani. London: Carlton Books Limited, 2000. Print. Wikipedia contributors. "Trousers." Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia. 17 Jan. 2019. Web. Retrieved January 22, 2019, from https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Trousers&oldid=878808409 Wilkinson, Isabela. “Thom Browne on Femininity and the Power of Uniforms.” New York Times Style Magazine Online. 14 Sept 2015. Web. Retrieved February 3, 2019, from https://www.nytimes.com/2015/09/14/t-magazine/thom-browne-fashion-week-spring-2016-interview.html Wilson, Hollie. ”1920s Fashion Icon: Coco Chanel.” Manchester Media Group. 6 Dec 2012. Web. Retrieved January 30, 2019, from https://mancunion.com/2012/12/06/1920s-fashion-icon-coco-chanel/ WWD Contributors. WWD: 100 Years/ 100 Designers. New York: Fairchild Books. Print.
BIBLIOGRAPHY
REFERENCES AND CITATIONS
BIBLIOGRAPHY
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BIBLIOGRAPHY
IMAGE REFERENCES
trousers Florence, Italy Š 2019
